EVEREST NORTH EXPEDITION

Size: px

Start display at page:

Download "EVEREST NORTH EXPEDITION"

Cory Boone
6 years ago
Views:

" Gerge Mallry n his attempt t climb Everest Everest frm the nrth (Tibet, nrth cl) S much has already been written and cntinues t be written abut

1 EVEREST NORTH EXPEDITION "What we get frm this adventure is just sheer jy. And jy is, after all, the end f life. We d nt live t eat and make mney. We eat and make mney t be able t live. That is what life means and what life is fr." Gerge Mallry n his attempt t climb Everest Everest frm the nrth (Tibet, nrth cl) S much has already been written and cntinues t be written abut it. Gd and bad, fascinating, cautinary, electrifying, dd, disturbing, and interesting. Yu can think what yu want, but it is and remains the mther f all muntains. It s the muntain whse histry f ascents is unsurpassed,

bursting with drama, madness and herics. The playgrund fr the tp climbers f ur time and the lifelng dream f s many climbers frm arund the wrld. It s nt just a muntain. The Everest is a myth.

2 bursting with drama, madness and herics. The playgrund fr the tp climbers f ur time and the lifelng dream f s many climbers frm arund the wrld. It s nt just a muntain. The Everest is a myth. And it makes yu a her. EXPEDITION OVERVIEW Jin Arnld Cster n his tenth Mt Everest Expeditin t the wrld s highest muntain at 8848m (29,035ft). His experience is amngst the best in the wrld, cmbined with a very high success rate. An ultimate bjective in many climber s minds, the allure f the wrld s highest summit prvides a mst cmpelling and challenging adventure. Where there is a will, I will aim t prvide a way. This is what ther peple said abut Arnld Cster: He is a relaxed, cnsiderate and thughtful persn; an expert leader and a highly-skilled prfessinal wh specializes in getting peple t the summit and back dwn in 100 percent safety. He is a gd cmmunicatr, a great mtivatr, and has a psitive attitude. Arnld is at hme in any terrain, with any kind f grup. He is an expert technical rck and ice climber Arnld Cster, has a decade f experience n Everest and his Sherpa s are sme ff the strngest in Nepal. He will help yu step by step t reach yur ultimate gal. Because f the high member t Sherpa rati there will always be smebdy t assist yu. Participatin Statement Arnld Cster recgnises that climbing, hill walking and muntaineering are activities with a danger f persnal injury r death. Participants in these activities shuld be aware f and accept these risks and be respnsible fr their wn actins and invlvement. Adventure Travel, Accuracy f Itinerary Althugh it is ur intentin t perate this itinerary as printed, it may be necessary t make sme changes as a result f flight schedules, climatic cnditins, limitatins f infrastructure r ther peratinal factrs. As a cnsequence, the rder r lcatin f vernight stps and the duratin f the day may vary frm thse utlined. Yu shuld be aware that sme events are beynd ur cntrl and we wuld ask fr yur patience. Nrth vs. Suth The tw "nrmal ascents" n Munt Everest each ffer certain advantages, but als pse their wn risks and challenges. Ultimately it shuld be a well-infrmed decisin n the part f aspirants whether t climb frm Tibet in the nrth via the Nrth Cl and Nrtheast ridge, r frm Nepal in the suth ver the Khumbu Icefall, Lhtse face and the Sutheast ridge. In many cases, a decisin in favur f ne r the ther side will be a result f several factrs including the experience f the participant, his persnality,

3 and his exact plan fr ascent, Perhaps ne side is mre appealing t yu, it exerts mre attractin r catches yur eye with a beautiful line. Listen t yur intuitin, which usually prvides the best advice in such cases, r seek persnal advice frm me! Nrth + bjectively the safer ascent rute + the last camp is higher (8300m) resulting in a shrter summit stage + currently cheaper due t a lwer permit prices in Tibet - lnger expsure t wind and cld during ascent - technically mre challenging during the last third, mre cliffs - descending frm the summit is mre difficult -n Helicpter rescue services within the whle f Tibet Suth + technically the easier and lnger ascent, sheltered frm the wind + statistically a higher chance f reaching the summit + lwer altitude base camp, resulting in better regeneratin - ice fall and avalanche hazard at the Khumbu icefall and the Lhtse slpe - last camp is at 8000m, resulting in a lnger, mre strenuus summit day - Overall ascent frm the base camp is smewhat lnger and requires mre stamina OUTLINE ITINERARY This is a suggested ideal itinerary, changes may well be necessary accrding t weather, client fitness and rate f acclimatisatin as well as difficulties with transprtatin. A number f rest days are prgrammed and these are an imprtant part f ur structured acclimatisatin prgramme Day 01 Arrive Kathmandu (1,300 meters/4,200 feet); give passprt t ur ffice representative wh will btain visa at Chinese embassy. Day 02 In Kathmandu - ur agent will pick up passprt frm chinese embassy. Lgistics, rientatin, purchasing, packing, training, visit temples, city tur, shpping. Htel.

Day 03 Fly frm Kathmandu t Lhasa (Tuesday, Thursday, r Saturday, but this culd change) Day 04 Drive t Shigatse. Rest and acclimate, tur the surrunding area.

Day 06 Acclimatizatin day Tingri Day 07 Drive t Chinese basecamp (5,200 meters/17,000 feet). Camp. Day 08-09 Rest & acclimatizatin in Chinese base. Organize equipment and supplies. Camp. Day 10 Walk gently in the hills surrunding Chinese base.

4 Day 03 Fly frm Kathmandu t Lhasa (Tuesday, Thursday, r Saturday, but this culd change) Day 04 Drive t Shigatse. Rest and acclimate, tur the surrunding area. Visit the 15th century Tashilunp Mnastery, the largest active mnastic institutin in Tibet. Day 05 Drive t Tingri. Rest and acclimate, tur the surrunding area. Day 06 Acclimatizatin day Tingri Day 07 Drive t Chinese basecamp (5,200 meters/17,000 feet). Camp. Day Rest & acclimatizatin in Chinese base. Organize equipment and supplies. Camp. Day 10 Walk gently in the hills surrunding Chinese base. Chance t hike t the Rngbuk Mnastery, the highest mnastery in the wrld. Meet the Lama and participate in a Puja ceremny. Day 11 Rest & acclimatizatin in Chinese base. Organize equipment and supplies. Our camp is cmfrtable fr the few days we spend there, with a full kitchen and dining tent, where ur cks prepare 3 ht delicius meals a day. There is plenty t explre in the surrunding hills, as well as many internatinal climbing teams t meet). Day 12 Walk with the yaks halfway t advanced base t interim camp (5,800 meters/19,000 feet). Camp. Day 13 Rest & acclimatizatin in interim camp. View and explre in the surrunding valley, laced with massive "icepilgrims" (large penitentes). Day 14 Rest & acclimatizatin in interim camp. Day 15 Walk with the yaks t advanced base (ABC) at 6,400 metres/21,000 feet. Camp. Day 16 Rest & acclimatizatin in advanced base. Extensive training. Organize supplies. Day 17 Rest & acclimatizatin in advanced base. Extensive training. Organize supplies

Day 18 Walk t camp 1 Nrth Cl (7,000 metres/23,000 feet). Return t ABC. Day 19 Rest in ABC. Day 20 Rest in ABC. Day 26 Rest in Chinese base.

Day 31 Explre rute t camp 3 (8,300 metres/27,200 feet), return t camp 2, sleep there. Day 21 Walk t camp 1. Sleep there.

Explre surrunding hillsides. Day 25 Rest in Chinese base. Light hiking and time fr meeting ther internatinal climbing teams. Day 32 Walk dwn t ABC.

5 Day 18 Walk t camp 1 Nrth Cl (7,000 metres/23,000 feet). Return t ABC. Day 19 Rest in ABC. Day 20 Rest in ABC. Day 26 Rest in Chinese base. Day 27 Walk up t interim camp. Day 28 Walk up t ABC. Day 29 Walk t camp 1, sleep there. Day 30 Walk t camp 2, sleep there. Day 31 Explre rute t camp 3 (8,300 metres/27,200 feet), return t camp 2, sleep there. Day 21 Walk t camp 1. Sleep there. Day 22 Explre rute t camp 2 (7,500 metres/24,600 feet), return t ABC Day 23 Walk back dwn t Chinese base. Day 24 Rest in Chinese base. Explre surrunding hillsides. Day 25 Rest in Chinese base. Light hiking and time fr meeting ther internatinal climbing teams. Day 32 Walk dwn t ABC. Day 33 Walk back dwn t Chinese base. Day 34 Rest in Chinese base r drive t a lwer village (ptinal, n wn expenses) Day 35 Lwer village; Explre histrical temples and light hiking r rest in CBC Day 36 Rest in lwer village r rest in CBC

Day 44 Attempt summit if cnditins allw. Day 45 Descend t ABC. Day 46 Rest in Chinese base. Day 47 Walk back up t ABC. Day 48 Walk t camp 1.

6 Day 37 Lwer village; Explre histrical temples and light hiking r rest in CBC Day 38 G back t Chinese base and rest. Day 39 Walk up t interim camp. back t tp Day 40 Walk up t ABC. Day 41 Walk t camp 1. Sleep there. Day 42 Walk t camp 2, sleep there. Day 43 Walk t camp 3, sleep there. Day 44 Attempt summit if cnditins allw. Day 45 Descend t ABC. Day 46 Rest in Chinese base. Day 47 Walk back up t ABC. Day 48 Walk t camp 1. Sleep there Day 49 Walk t camp 2, sleep there. Day 51 Attempt summit if cnditins allw. Day 52 Extra days fr summiting Day 53 Descend t camp 1. Day 54 Packing in camp 1, descend t ABC.

7 Day 55 Packing in ABC. Day 56 Yaks transprt equipment, supplies and rubbish t Chinese base. Members walk dwn. Day 57 Drive t Shigatze. Day 58 Drive t Lhasa Day 59 Fly t Kathmandu Day 60 Fly hme PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE The mst successful climbers tend t be thse wh have previusly been successful n climbs t 7000m r abve, are technically capable and have a gd level f fitness. Everest is nt the hardest muntain hwever; Arnld Cster believes that with a gd preparatin and skill training during the expeditin als members with lesser experience can have a fair chance. Everest is an enrmus undertaking with many bstacles but Arnld Cster believes his experience and infrastructure matched with yur enthusiasm can help yu achieve yur dream. If yu are unsure r wish t be prvided with a preparatin prgram, please drp Arnld Cster an t discuss the ptins. Arnld Cster has a great success rate in helping peple develp the apprpriate skills and experience. All past members f his expeditins (successful r nt) have been extremely pleased with the rganisatin and services prvided and particularly liked the team philsphy he established. Many members returned fr ther expeditins with Arnld including Makalu, Gasherbrum I&II etc. Safety, Quality, enjyment and success are his aim.

8 WEATHER FORCAST We get regular weather frecasts direct t ur laptp at base camp, which can be relayed up the muntain and further nes as a back up t ur Satellite phne.

9 COMMUNICATIONS Arnld Cster issues every member and Sherpa s with a handheld VHF radi, supprted by high pwered base sets at BC and Advanced BC. Base Camp is equipped with a Laptp and a High speed Satellite Data Cnnectin. Internet can be used at additinal cst. Arnld Cster expeditins cmmunicatins are supplied by: OXYGEN Our full service expeditin is supprted with a 1:1 Sherpa rati. This is enugh t carry a nrmal amunt f xygen; 6 bttles fr Members and 3 fr Sherpa. WHAT TO CARRY On the trek t ABC yu shuld aim t carry a light rucksack cntaining 1-2L f water, waterprfs, a spare warm layer, camera, mini first aid kit, sun hat, sun cream, sun glasses and a warm hat and glves. Yu can use this same backpack when we drive frm Lhasa t Base Camp fr yu clthes always the way. The rest f yur gear can g in yur kit bag witch is transprted by a truck t BC. T ABC all gear is transprted by Yaks, s make sure yur duffles are Yak Prf

10 I suggest a 50L+ sac t enable yu t carry yur persnal equipment up t the higher camps n the muntain a smaller pack will be t shrt fr the 4l xygen bttles. The Sherpa s will establish & stck the camps as well as prter the xygen t camp ready fr the summit attempt. Sherpa s can als help carrying persnal equipment like; dwn suits, sleeping bags etc. in case yu are having a bad day, but the intentin shuld be that yu are able t carry yur wn persnal gear. CATERING ARRANGEMENTS Base Camp fd is excellent and designed t stimulate yur appetite and keep yu ging despite frequent altitude induced lss f appetite. Breakfast includes prridge and cereal fllwed by eggs (fried, biled, pached r melettes) and bacn alng with either bread r chapattis with jam, hney, peanut butter etc. Lunch starts with juice fllwed by a ht meal which may include sme f the fllwing: chips, rice, lentils, vegetables, salad, sandwiches, beans, tinned fish and tinned meat. Dessert is usually fresh r tinned fruit and tea. The evening meal always starts with sup (ften with a healthy dse f garlic t aid acclimatisatin) accmpanied by pmpadurs, ppcrn r prawn crackers. The main meal varies frm lcal style Dal Bhat (rice and lentils with an nin and vegetable sauce), yak stew, mms etc. t western style yak burgers, chips, pasta, even pizza! Desserts are equally appealing and include apple pie, cake, custard etc. Yu will nt be hungry! Snack fd fr the hill will be plentiful and cnsist f such things as: chclate, cereal bars, jelly, dried fruit, nuts, cheese and salami (yu help yurself frm tubs, s there is n limit!). Cked fd higher n the hill will be a cmbinatin f freeze dried fd, sup and supplemented by snacks. Mst peple experience sme kind f appetite lss and we mainly aim t keep as hydrated as pssible with fruit teas, sup and pwdered fruit drinks. Fr special interest and t keep the taste buds ging we ask each member t bring a small luxury item f desire t share at sme pint with the rest f the grup. IMPORTANT The small print Please nte, if fr any reasn yu need t return t Kathmandu separate frm the whle grup, there will be csts incurred which yu will need t pay. In this situatin yu shuld claim back any cst thrugh yur insurance

11 CHANGE OF INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS We allw extra days in the itinerary fr bad weather. If yu d summit r cme back early additinal csts may be incurred. When btaining yur flights, be sure t bk alterable, refundable flights. INSURANCE Insurance which cvers muntain rescue and medical expenses is essential. Yu shuld nte there are n fficial muntain rescue services in Nepal and any evacuatin in the event f a serius medical emergency t the nearest hspital will be by land r military helicpter. We will require a cpy f yur insurance prir t departure. Please cntact me if yu need an insurance advice. RESPONSIBLE TOURISM We emply Nepalese Sherpa s and cks as well as a lcal Tibetan ck bys wh all wrk alngside ur wn grup leader giving emplyment beynd farming. We will have a shwer setup at BC, but if yu wuld like a bwl f ht water t wash in, then just ask the ck. Wet wipes als wrk really well as an alternative. We recmmend yu take items such as batteries back t Kathmandu fr recycling. ALTITUDE Yu shuld already be familiar with the effects f altitude frm yur previus experience. Hwever if yu are new t extreme altitude yu may still have cncerns abut the effects. Dn t wrry; ur itinerary allws sufficient time t acclimatise. The best way t avid such symptms is t d everything slwly, walk at a steady pace and drink plenty f fluid. USEFUL TIPS Just in case yur main luggage ges missing en rute, it is a gd idea t wear yur bts n the plane. Mst ther things can be replaced but cmfrtable, well wrn-in bts are impssible t replace.

12 EQUIPMENT A detailed equipment list is prvided n bking. Specialist items such as sleeping bags and dwn jackets/suits can be hired als (limited availability). BAGGAGE Fr yur wn cmfrt, travel light. Fr such a lng trip it s amazing hw quickly the weight adds up. Sme Eurpean airlines nly allw 20kg n ecnmy flights and charge huge mney fr excess baggage (specially the cheapest flights). Mst airlines ffer a 30kg allwance nwadays and ffer additinal baggage ptins, but this has t be btained when yu buy the ticket in advance. Make sure all equipment fits in yur duffle bags easy. On the expeditin there is n limitatin n the amund f equipment yu can bring. Sme items can be left at the htel fr yur return. Make sure all yur kit bags are lcked and packet waterprf. VISAS AND PERMITS US, UK citizens and mst EU natinals can get the Nepal Visas n arrival. All ther natinals shuld check with their lcal embassy and/r Passprts must be valid fr at least six mnths after the end date f the trip. Yu can nly btain an Tibet grup-visa nce yu are in Kathmandu; Nrmal Chinese turist Visa s are nt Valid in Tibet LOCAL COSTS Mst meals are inclusive, please see the key abve. Individuals are respnsible fr drinks and htel meals thrughut whilst in Kathmandu which gives the flexibility t chse where yu eat. The fllwing apprximate csts (mid range) may vary: Tea/cffee 1$; Beer 1.5$; Sft drink 1.5$; Lcal lunch 10$; 3-curse dinner 20$

13 CURRENCY In Nepal Nepalese Rupee; Eurs, UK Sterling, and US Dllars can easily be changed in Kathmandu. ATM (cash machines) are available in Kathmandu but are ften ut f rder, but usually yu can find ne that wrks within the same area. Fr Tibet RMB r Yuan. In lhasa there are varius mney changers and ATM. Once we leave Lhasa it s difficult t change mney. TIPPING Tipping is generally expected and part f everyday life. We tend t tip ur wn lcal staff as a whle and wuld recmmend arund $250 with an additinal summit bnus f $1000 fr each Sherpa that summits with yu! MODE OF PAYMENT The mde f payment belw is suggested, hwever it maybe pssible thrugh discussin t agree an alternative arrangement. Refundable Depsit payable with bking 4000$ Final payment 2 mnths befre departure Please nte The final Payment is nn-refundable and yu are advised, therefre t take ut adequate cancellatin insurance when yu bk What is Included All permits, charges, imprtatin taxes and levies payable t the Chinese Gvernment in cnnectin with the expeditin. All htel and ther accmmdatin up t and including tw nights accmmdatin n ur return t Kathmandu. Kathmandu-Lhasa flight an additinal cst fr the Lhasa entry All tents, rpes and ther cmmunal equipment necessary fr the climb.

14 Medical safety equipment and supplies. Cmmunicatin equipment (each member will have a radi n the hill), satellite telephne and facilities, website, weather frecasts. All fd, fuel and cking equipment. All trucks, jeeps, yaks, base camp wrkers. Base Camp and Advance Base Camp services, cks, ck bys, tents, seating etc. Climbing Sherpa supprt n the muntain each member has 1 Sherpa s. Oxygen (6*4ltrs) and Tp Out r Summit xygen mask. What is nt included Air travel t Kathmandu. Persnal climbing clthes and equipment. Persnal insurance, visas and inculatins. Fd whilst the team is in Kathmandu and extra s that are bught besides the grup meals. Imprtatin taxes incurred by yur persnal equipment (e.g. satellite telephne and ther high-tec equipment). Persnal medical supplies and persnal use f cmmunicatin equipment. Tips and Sherpa Bnus. WHY BOOK WITH ARNOLD COSTER? Our price is nt the cheapest available but we are exceptinally cmpetitive and prvide a very high level f service fr a little extra cst. Until yu have been t these altitudes it is difficult t fully appreciate that extra value. We prvide: Strng Leadership and Supprt. The expeditin will be lead by Arnld Cster himself, wh let nineteen 8000m expeditins and as many 7000m. He will be supprted by ur strng team f Sherpa s, wh have als been t the summit many times. Dawa and Mingma ur senir Sherpa s climbed all furteen 8000m peaks!

15 T cater every climbers need yu can chse fr Basic service nly, please cntact us fr mre infrmatin. This service is nly available if members sign up with a partner(s) Basic Service: This includes all cst t, frm and in Base Camp. Only fr members wh jin as a grup f 2 r mre. If yu need additinal services; these can be added fr additinal cst. All lgistical cst during the trek t and frm base camp are included, als all accmmdatin and fd during the trek. Cmfrtable base camp setup with all facilities. Fixed rpe, weather reprt and cmmunicatins with Base Camp 4 nights Single rm in midrange Htel in Kathmandu Full Service: Basically this includes everything fr an experienced climber. All high altitude equipment; tents, fuel, stves, fd and snacks are prvided. Each member will have five 4L xygen bttles fr the climb. There will be ne Sherpa fr each member t assist during summit days. 4 Nights Single rm in Midrange Htel in Kathmandu Training climb n Lbuje peak 6119m, s yu are already acclimated when yu g true the icefall and t shave up missing skills. Very strng cmmunicatin equipment All members and Sherpa s are given a radi fr the duratin f the expeditin and we have quality base sets at BC and ABC. Satellite telephne backup. Satellite telephnes at Base Camp and Advance Base Camp; essential fr weather frecasts. Yu can take the phne t use in the privacy f yur wn tent. facilities

16 We receive ur wn weather frecast direct t ur wn n a regular basis and d nt rely n a third party. Quality Muntain Equipment We use expeditin tested equipment, a gd supply f stves, shvels etc Quality Base Camp & Advance Base Camp. We d nt use agency tents and equipment and as a result we can guarantee the quality. Our Mess tents and base camp facilities are amng the mst cmfrtable nes in Base Camp! Althugh the fllwing may appear t be a luxury we have fund they add t yur verall cmfrt and relaxatin allwing yu t be physically mre able at critical times. Only thse wh have been t these altitudes fr lng perids will fully appreciate the subtle differences. We have nt added this t yur expeditin cst. The extra csts we absrb are fr: Sherpas, Weather and quality equipment. BC Shwer tent, Gas Heaters fr yur cmfrt, Cmfrtable seating, mvie prjectr, Laptp Cmputer Staffing We have gd cks and Sherpa; staff wh regularly wrk fr us. We have a ck and ck assistant at bth BC and ABC t ensure yu are well lked after wherever yu are. At least 1 climbing Sherpa t every 1 client. This is a higher rati than many ther cmpanies and allws fr illness, accident r t give the resurces needed t get lgistics in place after a bad spell f weather etc. Medical We nrmally manage t have a Dctr n the team but this is nt guaranteed. Our Leader is trained and has a lt f experience in treating and recgnizing High Altitude Sickness. The expeditin has his wn: Medical supplies, Gamm Bag Emergency equipment, spare xygen, stretcher etc We pay the Membership f the HRA Hspital in Base Camp fr all members. With this member ship yu can g fr unlimited checkups by a western dctr in their field hspital All thse Little Luxuries; Shwers, mess tent heaters, high quality tents and cmfrtable seating dn t add t the cst f yur expeditin but can add t yur ptential summit success. Yu will be mre

17 relaxed and rested which in turn allws yu t retain yur strength r regain it if yu suffer a but f illness. Arnld Cster wants t thank his spnsrs fr all their years ff supprt!

Detailed Information Lauterbrunnen 2019 Hotel Staubbach

Detailed Information Lauterbrunnen 2019 Hotel Staubbach Detailed Infrmatin Lauterbrunnen 2019 Htel Staubbach We are pleased yu are travelling with us this winter and are cnfident yu will have a great time. Dn t wrry if yu are cming alne as with ur friendly