CRUISE 旅航 MALAYSIA 馬來西亞. 12 Q indulge

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1 CRUISE 旅航 MALAYSIA 馬來西亞 12 Q indulge

2 Eye-catching murals add a modern touch to Malacca s quaint riverside scene 色彩奪目的壁畫, 為馬六甲河兩岸古雅的景色增添現代感 小城故事 Words/ 撰文 Kiki Deere A visit to the Malaysian port city is a journey through its colourful history 游覽馬來西亞港口城市馬六甲, 欣賞豐富繽紛的歷史文化 MAGIC MALACCA

3 CRUISE 旅航 MALAYSIA 馬來西亞 Once one of Malaysia s most important early trading ports, Malacca has been ruled by the Portuguese, Dutch and British. As a result, the city is an amalgamation of cultural styles. Indulge gives you the best five examples. 馬六甲昔日是馬來西亞其中一個最重要的貿易港口, 曾經先後被葡萄牙 荷蘭和英國統治, 令這座城市糅合多種文化, 以下我們介紹的五個地方, 充分反映出當地的多元特質 Kampung Morten & Villa Sentosa 甘榜莫藤及聖淘沙別墅 Along the banks of the Melaka River lies Kampung Morten, a village of traditional Malay houses. Villa Sentosa is a beautifully preserved house dating back to the 1920s. It is a living museum and a representation of the charming residents and residences of Malacca s yesteryears, says Ben Quah, Hotel Manager of The Majestic Malacca, which lies just across the river from Villa Sentosa. Haja Fatimah, the octogenarian daughter of the original owner of the house, provides guided tours around her family abode, proudly showing an array of objects and family photographs. Exhibits include Malay embroidery, costumes, antique furniture and other curios, such as a 200-year-old gong, believed to help fulfil one s wishes. 沿馬六甲河河畔而建的甘榜莫藤村莊內, 傳統馬來房屋林立, 當中建於 1920 年代的聖淘沙別墅至今保存完好 與別墅隔河相對的是馬六甲大華酒店, 酒店經理 Ben Quah 說 : 這是一座活生生的博物館, 充分展現馬六甲充滿魅力的居民和他們的居所 聖淘沙別墅主人的女兒 Haja Fatimah 年逾八旬, 但仍然樂於帶訪客參觀她家族的祖屋, 自豪地介紹屋內展出的各種物品及家庭照片 展品包括馬來刺繡 服飾 古董家具, 以及其他珍玩, 例如一面有 200 年歷史的古鑼, 據說它能幫助人們夢想成真 Jonker Walk Market 雞場街夜市 Jalan Hang Jebat, or Jonker Walk as it is commonly known, is home to antiques, crafts and textile stores, some of which are housed in buildings dating back to the 17th century. On weekend nights, the street is closed to traffic and is home to a lively night market that throngs with activity until late. Tourist-friendly peddlers set up stalls displaying a variety of souvenirs and handicrafts, while the aromas of freshly made food waft down the street Haja Fatimah (above), daughter of the original owner of Villa Sentosa, provides guided tours for visitors 聖淘沙別墅原主人的女兒 Haja Fatimah( 上圖 ) 向參觀者提供導賞服務 i SuperStar Gemini regularly visits Malacca. For its full itinerary, see page 74. 行程雙子星號定期到訪馬六甲 查詢詳細航程, 請閱第 74 頁 as hawker stalls rustle up local delicacies such as chicken rice ball and a variety of succulent satay. 俗稱雞場街的漢惹拔路, 匯聚古董店 手工藝品店及紡織品店, 部分店舖坐落於 17 世紀的歷史建築物內 每逢周末晚上這條街禁止車輛通行, 變身成一個生氣勃勃 熙來攘往的夜市, 熱鬧氣氛延續至深夜 攤販展示各種紀念品和手工藝品, 吸引旅客注意 ; 與此同時, 由街上小吃攤檔傳來的一陣陣香味令人垂涎三尺, 當中包括雞飯粒和各種美味沙嗲串 River cruise 河上觀光船 In the 15th century, under the Malacca Sultanate, the river teemed with traders from around the world. Today, a number of buildings from that time still line the riverbanks, including godowns (old warehouses), churches and traditional villages. In recent years, the riverfront has been beautified with quirky murals and pedestrian pathways have been paved. The river cruise is a very gentle introduction, with a burst of interesting audio information as you cruise back down the river from the Spice Garden turnaround point, exclaims Matt Daley, a British tourist. It is well worth the small fee and waiting for IMAGES. Haja Fatimah: Kiki Deere. Jonker Walk Market: Leisa Tyler. Graffiti: Getty Images 14 Q indulge

4 Heritage walk: Jonker Walk Market is flanked by buildings, some of which are 300 years old 漫遊古蹟 : 雞場街夜市兩側古舊建築物林立, 部分更有 300 年歷史 IMAGES. Previous pages: Michael Crawford-Hick the nighttime lighting backdrops. Organised by the Melaka River and Coastal Development Corporation, the 45-minute boat ride with audio commentary provides an excellent introduction to the city, highlighting places of interest along the way. 在 15 世紀馬六甲蘇丹王朝統治時期, 馬六甲河上有數之不盡的各國貿易商船 時至今日, 河岸上仍保留著一些在當年興建的建築物, 包括舊倉庫 教堂和傳統村莊 近年馬六甲河河岸積極進行美化工程, 除增添新奇可愛的壁畫, 還鋪設行人通道 英國遊客 Matt Daley 推薦乘搭觀光船遊覽, 他說 : 乘船遊河可以從容地認識這個地方, 當觀光船從 Spice Garden 掉頭沿河而下時, 乘客會透過語音導覽聽到許多豐富有趣的資料 船費低廉 十分超值, 而且夜晚沿河兩岸的夜色美不勝收, 很值得靜待夜幕低垂後好好欣賞 遊船河旅程由 Melaka River and Coastal Development Corporation 公司主辦, 全程 45 分鐘, 沿途設語音導覽介紹這座城市, 並向乘客提示沿途有趣景點 Stadthuys 荷蘭總督府 At the heart of Malacca s colonial centre is Dutch Square, dominated by the collection of red structures that form the Stadthuys. Erected between 1641 and 1656 as the official residence of Dutch Jonker Walk Market (above) comes alive at night with souvenir stalls and street-food hawkers 雞場街 ( 上圖 ) 晚上非常熱鬧, 沿路盡是售賣紀念品和街頭小食的攤檔 A cruise along the Melaka River reveals plenty of the area s charming character (right) 乘船遊覽馬六甲河, 沿途欣賞充滿地區特色的人物壁畫 ( 右圖 ) indulge Q

5 CRUISE 旅航 MALAYSIA 馬來西亞 WHAT TO SEE 漫遊古城 Villa Sentosa, Jalan Kampung Morten 甘榜莫藤路的聖淘沙別墅 Tel/ 電話 : Daily/ 每日 :9am-5pm (closed 1pm-2pm) 上午 9 時至下午 5 時 ( 下午 1 至 2 時休息 ) Friday/ 周五 :2:45pm-5pm 下午 2 時 45 分至 5 時 Jonker Walk Market 雞場街夜市 Friday-Sunday/ 周五至周日 : 6pm to midnight 下午 6 時至午夜 Melaka River Cruise 馬六甲河觀光船 Tel/ 電話 : / 23 Daily/ 每日 :Every 30 mins from 9am-11pm 從上午 9 時至晚上 11 時, 每 30 分鐘一班 Friday/ 周五 :No trips from 12:15pm-2:15pm 中午 12 時 15 分至下午 2 時 15 分休息 /23 Stadthuys 荷蘭總督府 Tel/ 電話 : Monday Thursday 周一至周四 :9am-5pm 上午 9 時至下午 5 時 Friday Sunday 周五至周日 : 9am-8:30pm 上午 9 時至晚上 8 時 30 分 Baba & Nyonya House Museum 峇峇娘惹祖屋博物館 Daily tour times/ 每日參觀時間 : 10am-1pm (last tour at 11:45am) 上午 10 時至下午 1 時 ( 上午最後一節導賞 11 時 45 分開始 ) 2pm-5pm (last tour at 4pm) 下午 2 時至 5 時 ( 下午最後一節導賞 4 時開始 ) The buildings of Dutch Square, including the still functioning Christ Church (above), are believed to be the oldest surviving Dutch colonial structures in the East 荷蘭廣場的建築物包括仍然在使用中的教堂 Christ Church( 上圖 ), 相信是東方現存最古老的荷蘭建築 16 Q indulge

6 Governors, an administrative centre and town hall, it is believed to be the oldest surviving Dutch building in the East. Covering approximately a hectare of land, the Stadthuys formerly housed a swimming pool, courtyards, servants quarters, a guest house, warehouses, a bakery, a stable and even a prison. The interior features hardwood doors and louvred windows, while a stairway with a stone balustrade leads to a balcony overlooking the square from where city governors are thought to have addressed uniformed garrisons. 荷蘭總督府由一系列奪目的紅色建築物組成, 坐落於馬六甲殖民地遺跡區中央的荷蘭廣場 這些建築物在 1641 至 1660 年興建, 是荷蘭總督官邸, 集行政中心和市政廳於一身, 相信是東方現存最古老的荷蘭建築 荷蘭總督府佔地約一公頃, 昔日的設施包括泳池 庭院 僕人宿舍 賓客住所 倉庫 烘焙室及一所監獄 總督府內的裝修包括硬木門和百葉窗, 通往陽台的樓梯裝設了石製扶手 由陽台可俯瞰廣場, 而殖民地時代的總督就是在廣場向駐軍講話 Baba & Nyonya House Museum 峇峇娘惹祖屋博物館 Also known as the Baba Nyonya Heritage Museum, it was once the ancestral home of a Peranakan family descendants of Chinese immigrants who intermarried with local Malays. The men are typically addressed by the honorific term Baba, while Straitsborn women are known as Nyonya. The Peranakan spirit is about the integration and assimilation of different cultural influences into a way of life, says Melissa Chan, Curator of the museum. Acquired in 1861 by the Chan family, the interior is filled with sumptuous gold-leaf fittings, Chinese furnishings inlaid with mother of pearl and marble, and Victorian chandeliers. Leading to the second floor is a solid chengal wood staircase with gold-leaf carvings, thought to have been the first of its kind in Southeast Asia. Informative guided tours are included in the price and greatly enhance the experience. IMAGES. Christ Church: Getty Images 亦稱峇峇娘惹遺產博物館, 前身是一個土生華人家族的祖屋 峇峇娘惹是指早期中國移民與當地馬來人結婚所生的後裔, 男性尊稱為峇峇, 女性則稱為娘惹 博物館館長 Melissa Chan 說 : 峇峇娘惹的精神是將不同文化整合 融和成為一種生活方式 博物館昔日是曾氏家族在 1861 年買的房屋, 屋內有各種飾以金箔的華麗裝飾 鑲嵌珍珠母貝和大理石的中式家具, 以及維多利亞式吊燈 通往二樓的實心樟木樓梯有金箔雕刻, 相信是東南亞首條同類樓梯 參觀門票包括導賞服務, 讓訪客得到更深刻的體驗 Peranakan culture s assimilation of Chinese elements can be appreciated in the displays at the Baba & Nyonya House Museum (above and top) 從峇峇娘惹祖屋博物館 ( 上圖和最上圖 ) 的展品中, 可以欣賞到土生華人文化的中華元素 indulge Q