06: in the steps of ulysses

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1 06: in the steps of ulysses iwalk A self-guided walking tour

Welcome to dublin iwalk in the steps of ulysses We hope that as you take time to walk around and explore our capital city you will soon discover the Irish capital is at Dublin Tourism Centre North

2 Welcome to dublin iwalk in the steps of ulysses We hope that as you take time to walk around and explore our capital city you will soon discover the Irish capital is at Dublin Tourism Centre North Earl Street No. 5 Parnell Square Top of Parnell Square East Eccles Street St Georges s Church the very heart of Irish culture and offers endless choices to our visitors. Dublin s real appeal is her people, so don t be afraid to stop and ask for directions along your walk Dubliner s hospitality and wit will Belvedere College North Great George s Street James Joyce Street George s Quay, Opposite to the Custom House The Sean O Casey Bridge Corner of Westland Row and Pearse Street Under the Railway Bridge Inside St Andrew s Church Sweny s Chemist Leinster Street South Davy Byrne s Pub captivate you!

iwalk - In the steps of Ulysses Dublin Tourism Centre 01 Dublin Tourism Centre: The tour commences from outside the Dublin Tourism Centre on Suffolk Street.

If you want to go directly to Eccles Street you may take the number 10 bus from outside the Dublin Tourism Centre which will leave you to the top of Eccles Street from where you can walk down to the

Alternatively you may get on a number 16 or 16A bus from nearby College Green which will leave you close to the intersection of Eccles Street and Dorset Street.

O Connell Street 02 North Earl Street: To get to your next stop turn right when you come out of the tourist office and head towards Grafton Street.

From here keep going in a forward direction passing in turn Trinity College on your right, the Bank of Ireland, which housed the former Houses of Parliament in the 18th century, on your left.

3 iwalk - In the steps of Ulysses Dublin Tourism Centre 01 Dublin Tourism Centre: The tour commences from outside the Dublin Tourism Centre on Suffolk Street. Leopold Bloom s journey started from Eccles Street and on our way up there you will pass some places associated with Joyce and Ulysses. If you want to go directly to Eccles Street you may take the number 10 bus from outside the Dublin Tourism Centre which will leave you to the top of Eccles Street from where you can walk down to the Mater Private Hospital where the tour commences. Alternatively you may get on a number 16 or 16A bus from nearby College Green which will leave you close to the intersection of Eccles Street and Dorset Street. Ask the bus driver where to let you off. If you take the bus to Eccles Street your tour will start from Stop No.5. O Connell Street 02 North Earl Street: To get to your next stop turn right when you come out of the tourist office and head towards Grafton Street. When you reach this famous shopping street turn left, passing the statue of Molly Malone, the legendary street trader and the subject of Dublin s unofficial anthem. From here keep going in a forward direction passing in turn Trinity College on your right, the Bank of Ireland, which housed the former Houses of Parliament in the 18th century, on your left. After Westmoreland Street cross over O Connell Bridge and head up towards the Spire, the 120m tall monument in the centre of the street. At the Spire turn right into North Earl Street and there stop at the statue of the famous man himself, James Joyce. Parnell Monument 03 No. 5 Parnell Square: Recommence walking up O Connell Street heading towards the Parnell Monument which commemorates one of Ireland s great 19th century statesmen. Behind this monument and over to the left is the classical edifice of the Rotunda Hospital, believed to be the world s first purpose-built maternity hospital. Cross over Parnell Street and up Cavendish Row which continues into Parnell Square, passing, on your left, the famous Gate Theatre which was founded in 1928 in the former Grand Supper Room of the Rotunda Hospital s Assembly Rooms originally built in Stop opposite number 5 Parnell Square. Parnell Square 04 Top of Parnell Square East: Walk a short distance up to the top of the square and pause for a few moments to look across at the Garden of Remembrance and beyond it across to Parnell Square West. Tucked in between the Abbey Presbyterian Church and the Dublin City Gallery, the Hugh Lane, is the renowned Dublin Writer s Museum 05 Eccles Street: Without further ado, you will make your way straight to the next stop and the real starting point of this tour. Walk straight up past the junction with Great Denmark Street, continue along Frederick Street North and turn right into Dorset Street Lower. Cross the road when you safely can do so, continuing for 200 metres until you come to Eccles Street and turn left. Cross over to the Mater Private Hospital and stand in front of the plaque to the right of the main door. This plaque has the head of James Joyce sculptured onto it. This part of the journey should, on average, take about 10 to 15 minutes. 4 St George s Church 06 St Georges s Church: Walking down Eccles Street to the corner with Dorset Street you can mirror Bloom s journey. Before you cross over Dorset Street make a short side trip to follow Bloom as he travels to the butcher. He turned the corner at what is still a pub, but then called Larry O Rourke s, and turned right to walk down Dorset Street, passing over the pub s grating (now a steel trapdoor) from which floated up the flabby gush of porter. On the right he passed St Joseph s National School (now St Raphael s House, the headquarters of the Garda Credit Union), a dark red-bricked building with five bays of windows. Now turn around and come back to the corner again. 5

iwalk - In the steps of Ulysses Sean O Casey Bridge Custom House 07 08 09 10 11 Belvedere College: Walk down Temple Street and then turn right into Great Denmark Street.

North Great George s Street: Cross the road and walk down on the left side of North Great George s Street until you reach no No. 35 - the James Joyce Cultural Centre.

7 Eccles Street which was saved by a Joycean enthusiast before the demolition crews got to it.

4 iwalk - In the steps of Ulysses Sean O Casey Bridge Custom House Belvedere College: Walk down Temple Street and then turn right into Great Denmark Street. Stop in front of a mansion-like building which stands opposite to North Great George s Street. This is Belvedere College. North Great George s Street: Cross the road and walk down on the left side of North Great George s Street until you reach no No the James Joyce Cultural Centre. Here, in a superbly restored Georgian townhouse, you will find manuscripts and memorabilia of the Joyce family and of the works of James Joyce including the actual door of No.7 Eccles Street which was saved by a Joycean enthusiast before the demolition crews got to it. James Joyce Street: You are still on a parallel but different route to Leopold Bloom but you will soon converge on his original path. Proceed down to the bottom of North Great George s Street, turn left onto Parnell Street, cross Gardiner Street at the next junction and cross again to walk down Gardiner Street on the left-hand side. You have now regained Bloom s itinerary. You can see what he saw and apart from some new apartment blocks the overall view is little changed since The railway bridge still crosses the street obscuring the aspect to the magnificent Custom House. Take the second left into Railway Street and right again into James Joyce Street. Stop at the junction with Foley Street. George s Quay, Opposite to the Custom House: Exit James Joyce Street, turn right up Talbot Street and left again to regain Gardiner Street. With the help of pedestrian lights cross over a series of junctions to gain the left-hand side of Beresford Place and walk along by the boundary wall of the Custom House. Cross over the River Liffey by way of Butt Bridge and turn left along by the river until you reach opposite the classical pile of the Custom House. The Sean O Casey Bridge: Instead of going the direct route his journey meanders quite a bit. Proceed down George s Quay, go over the next bridge, the Matt Talbot Bridge, and onto the campshire along City Quay. A campshire is the walking area along by the riverfront. We presume Bloom walked along the opposite pavement but he certainly would have chosen the campshire had he the choice. When you come to the modern pedestrian bridge stop here for a while, even walk onto the bridge to take in the view. Pearse Street 12 Corner of Westland Row and Pearse Street: Bloom s rambles next took him into Lime Street. Nothing remains in this district from 1904 so we will take a short cut to catch up with Bloom again. Cross over from the bridge and stroll up Lombard Street on the right-hand side. You will meet with Bloom after the junction with Townsend Street. The frowning face of Bethel which was the Salvation Army Hostel, was at Nos. 19/20. The face no longer frowns as it has been replaced by a more modern reincarnation. Next pass Nichols the undertakers at Nos : not only is the building still there but so is Nichols itself, and probably not much changed since Bloom s shadow fell on it. Bloom then went across Great Brunswick Street to you that is now called Pearse Street. Stand at the corner with Pearse Street and Westland Row. 6 7

iwalk - In the steps of Ulysses Sweny s Chemist Leinster Street South Davy Byrne s 13 14 15 16 17 Under the Railway Bridge: Once he collected the letter from his lady friend by correspondence, Bloom

After his bad luck in bumping into an acquaintance by the name of McCoy, he strolled back to Great Brunswick Street, modern day Pearse Street, and turned right along the high station wall.

In Bloom s day there was a vehicle ramp which led up to the station s platforms but it was demolished to make way for Goldsmith Hall, a lecture halls and residence facility for Trinity College.

5 iwalk - In the steps of Ulysses Sweny s Chemist Leinster Street South Davy Byrne s Under the Railway Bridge: Once he collected the letter from his lady friend by correspondence, Bloom pocketed it and decided to pick a quiet place to read its contents. After his bad luck in bumping into an acquaintance by the name of McCoy, he strolled back to Great Brunswick Street, modern day Pearse Street, and turned right along the high station wall. You may follow him by crossing Westland Row and proceeding down Pearse Street. In Bloom s day there was a vehicle ramp which led up to the station s platforms but it was demolished to make way for Goldsmith Hall, a lecture halls and residence facility for Trinity College. There is no hackney or carriage rank here any more so you won t experience the sweet oaten reek of horsepiss that Bloom noticed as he passed the parked horses. Turn into Cumberland Street and stand under the bridge where Bloom stopped to read his letter surreptitiously. Inside St Andrew s Church: Bloom then went in through the backdoor of the church which he called All Hallows but is officially known as St Andrew s Roman Catholic Church. The backdoor is usually locked so you will have to open the gate which is usually unlocked during the daytime and go along the side passage until you reach the front of the church. If the church is closed then the gate will also be locked. In such a case walk around to Westland Row by the way you came here in the first place. Enter the interior and savour what Joyce describes as the cold smell of sacred stone. Sweny s Chemist: When you are ready to leave the prayerful atmosphere of St Andrews walk up Westland Row. Pause opposite number 21, a house on the right-hand side with a plaque on the wall. This was the birthplace in 1854 of another of Dublin s famous writers and wits, Oscar Wilde. When you reach the top of the street observe a chemist s shop or pharmacy which stands directly facing you. This is Sweny s Chemist Leinster Street South: Proceed along Lincoln Place towards Leinster Street South in the manner of Bloom who went cheerfully towards the mosque of the baths redbaked bricks, the minarets. This description accurately fits the Turkish Bath Company of 6-15 Lincoln Place, but this building was not in use by 1904, so probably his destination was the Turkish and Warm Baths of 10 to 11 Leinster Street South now just a dark-bricked and soulless-looking office block. He notes, as you can, the gates of College Park which is a side entrance into Trinity College. Stop opposite to where the railings of Trinity College begin. Davy Byrne s Pub: This is where we will leave Joyce and Bloom for now. Bloom, after his Turkish bath, takes a tram to Sandymount, accompanies Dignam s funeral to Glasnevin Cemetery and on his return to town visits his place of employment, the Freeman s Journal. He decides he needs to get a copy of an advertisement from the Kilkenny People and makes his way to consult it in the National Library. He journeys past Trinity College, up Grafton Street and into Duke Street and pops into Davy Byrne s Pub for lunch. This is where you are now headed for. After his lunch Bloom visits the national Library, wanders up towards Temple Bar and makes for the Ormond Hotel on Ormond Quay. All of this and more will have to wait for another day. For now walk along Leinster Street South and continue where it becomes Nassau Street and turn left into Dawson Street, taking the first turn to the right which is Duke Street. A little more than halfway down on the left is Davy Byrnes. You have now reached the end of this guided tour. You may like to know that there are other walks in this series, each highlighting a unique quarter in the city or suburbs that you may download from the Dublin Tourism website Thank you for visiting our city. 8 9

6 CRANE LANE DAME COURT CROWN AL CROW ST TEMPLE LANE ASDILL S ROW BEDFORD ROW iwalk - route map Eccles Street 05 St. Georges Church 06 Top of Parnell Square East 04 TEMPLE STREET GARDINER PLACE MANOR STREET LIS QUAY S ISLAND iwalk T BRIDGEFOOT STREET THOMAS STREET HANBURY LANE EARL ST. SOUTH PIMLICO BRUNSWICK STREET NORTH QUEEN STREET MEATH OLIVER BOND COOK STREET MEATH STREET SMITHFIELD WEST KING STREET NORTH SWIFT S ALLEY ASH STREET BOW STREET PHOENIX ST. HAMMOND ARRAN QUAY USHERS QUAY in the steps of ulysses GRANGE GORMAN BRIDGE ST. CHURCH STREET CORN MARKET THOMAS DAVIS FRANCIS STREET CHURCH STREET CONSTITUTION HILL No.35 North Great Georges Strett No.5 Parnell Square East James Joyce Street North Earl Street George s Quay Sean O Casey Bridge INNS QUAY Under the Railway Bridge MERCHANTS QUAY Corner of Westland Row and Pearse Street Dublin Tourism Centre Belvedere College HIGH STREET St. Andrews Church RACK LANE DILLON ST. HANNOVER TRICK STREET WINE TAVERN STREET Davy Byrnes Pub NICHOLAS ST. ROSS RD. BRIDE RD. BULL ALLEY ST. PATRICK S PARK BRIDE STREE SHIP ST. CHANCERY RD CAPEL STREET Leinster Street South KING SS INN ST. GOLDEN LANE WHITEFRIAR ST DOMINICK LANE BOLTON STREET DORSET STREET LOFTUS LANE JERVIS LANE WOLFE TONE STREET PARLIAMENT STREET GRANBY LANE DOMINICK PLACE DOMINICK STREET JERVIS STREET MARY STREET PARNELL STREET ABBEY STREET UPPER MILLENIUM BRIDGE SYCAMORE ST ER STREET EUSTACE ST. FREDERICK STREET PARNELL SQ. NTH PARNELL SQ. WEST STRAND STREET GREAT ORMOND QUAY LOWER ESSEX STREET GRANBY PL DAME LANE LIFFEY STREET WELLINGTON QUAY DAME STREET TRINITY ST. STREET SAMPSON S LANE FOWNES ST MOORE STREET HA PENNY BRIDGE GLOVER S PARNELL SQ. EAST COPE ST EXCHEQUER ST. CASTLE MARKET 07 TEMPLE BAR GARDINER ROW MOORE LANE NTH GT GEORGES ST HENRY STREET ANGLESEA ST. LITTON LANE HENRY PLACE BEDFORD LA FOSTER PLACE ASTON PLACE WICKLOW ST CLARENDON STREET BALFE ST O CONNELL STREET ABBEY STREET MIDDLE LOTTS ROW ST ANDREWS LA 03 PARNELL STREET PRINCES STREET JOHNSTON CT HARRY ST THOMAS LANE PRICES LANE LEMON ST SOUTH ANNE ST GRAFTON STREET HILL STREET FLEET STREET O CONNELL ST SUFFOLK ST ANNE S LANE WESTMORELAND ST DUKE LANE GARDINER STREET UPPER GRENVILLE ST MARLBOROUGH STREET CATHEDRAL ST ASTON QUAY EARL ST. EARL PLACE GRAFTON ARCADE DUKE STREET ROYAL HIBERNIAN WAY TEMPLE LANE SACKVILLE PL. D OLIER ST DAWSON STREET CUMBERLANS ST NORTH ABBEY STREET LOWER BACHELORS WALKEDEN QUAY 01 ST. ANDREW ST COLLEGE GREEN 17 BURGH QUAY HAWKINS ST COLLEGE STREET NASSAU STREET LEINSTER ST FREDERICK ST MOLESWORTH ST GARDINER STREET LOWER ABBEY ST OLD SUMMERHILL SEAN McDERMOTT STREET TALBOT STREET TALBOT STREET POOLBEG STREET TARA ST TRINITY COLLEGE LUKE STREET TOWNSEND STREET FRENCHMANS LANE STORE ST RIVER LIFFEY 10 GEORGES QUAY MOSS STREET ST TALBOT PLACE STORE ST. CUSTOM HOUSE QUAY PEARSE STREET 09 BERESFORD PLACE 16 LINCOLN PL CLARE ST 15 AMIEN STREET KILLARNEY STREET CUSTOM HOUSE QUAY 10 Sweny s Chemist 11 CITY QUAY WESTLAND ROW LOMBARD STREET NORTH MERRION PEARSE STREET 13 SHERIFF STREET 11 SANDWITH STREET COMMONS STREET

7 We hope that you enjoyed this walk which was narrated by its author, Pat Liddy, who may be visited on his website and brought to you by Dublin Tourism on For the latest updates on walking tours of Dublin, check out our website: Our offices are located at: Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 14 Upper O Connell Street, Dublin 1 Arrivals Hall, Dublin Airport, County Dublin Dun Laoghaire Harbour, County Dublin Baggot Street, Bridge Dublin 2. Thank you for visiting our city. The copyright for this text is owned by Pat Liddy and such copyright has been asserted by him. He has made this text available to be exclusively used by Dublin Tourism.

03: Viking & Medieval dublin

03: Viking & Medieval dublin iwalk A self-guided walking tour Welcome to Dublin. iwalk viking and medieval dublin We hope that as you take time to walk around and explore Dublin you will discover the Irish