airports 1081 Albany 956-9, 957 Albury Aldgate Alexander Morrison National Park 973 Alice Springs , 872-3, 878

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1 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 1095 Index A Aboriginal art 19, 130, 831, 848-9, 1005, , 19, 848, see also rock art Aboriginal culture 27, food 1057 languages 1036 music 1045 performing arts 1045 Aboriginal festivals 30, 468, 822, 849, 849 Aboriginal history 1031, 1032, 1034, Aboriginal people 19, 849 Bennelong 1033 land 48, New South Wales 66-7, 138, 155, 157, 200 Northern Territory 810, 853, 862, 894 Queensland 278 South Australia 711, 715, 719, 792, 796 Tasmania 619, 622, 1035 Victoria 475, 482, 497, 553 Western Australia 904, 943 accommodation , see also individual locations activities 29-32, 51-7, see also individual locations Adelaide , , 728-9, accommodation activities drinking emergency services 738 entertainment festivals food history 1034 medical services 738 money 738 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 shopping sights tourist information 739 tours travel to/from 739 travel within Adelaide Fringe 30 Adelaide Hills 740-4, 741 AFL Grand Final 31, 501 Agnes Water air travel 1081, 1082 Aireys Inlet 541 Airlie Beach , 387, 421 airports 1081 Albany 956-9, 957 Albury Aldgate Alexander Morrison National Park 973 Alice Springs , 872-3, 878 accommodation activities 875 children, travel with 723 drinking 881 emergency services 882 entertainment 881 festivals 876 food medical services 882 money 882 shopping sights tourist information 882 tours travel to/from travel within amusement parks, see theme parks Anakie 371 Angaston Anglesea 540 animals , see also wildlife watching, individual species antechinus 1051 Anzac Day 1038, 1036 Apollo Bay aquariums Aquarium of Western Australia 910 Aquascene 814, 847 Indo-Pacific Marine Exhibition 816 Melbourne Aquarium 482 Merimbula Aquarium 252 National Zoo & Aquarium 264 Reef HQ Aquarium 395, 421 SEA LIFE Sydney Aquarium 84-5 area codes 23, 1076 Arkaroola 800 Armidale Arnhem Land art, see Aboriginal art, galleries Art Gallery of NSW 77 Art Gallery of South Australia 717, 26 Art Gallery of Western Australia 910 Arthur River 695 Atherton Atherton Tableland ATMs 1073 Augusta Australia Day 29 Australia Zoo 337 Australian Centre for Contemporary Art 486 Australian Centre for the Moving Image 479 Australian Formula One Grand Prix 500 Australian Institute of Sport 264 Australian Museum 77 Australian National Botanic Gardens Australian National Maritime Museum 88 Australian Open 499, 1061 Australian Rules football 31, 496, 501, 737, 822, 833-4, 1060, 19 Australian War Memorial Australianisms 1030 Australia s regions Ayers Rock, see Uluru B backpacker hostels Badgingarra National Park 973 Bairnsdale Ballarat , 570 Ballina Bamaga Bangalow 192 banking 1073 Banks, Joseph 1031 Barcaldine Barmera Barossa Valley 774-9, 775, 18 Barraba 198 Barrington Tops National Park 160 Barwon Heads 526 basketball 737 Bat Cave 768 Batavia Coast Batchelor Bateman s Bay bathrooms 1077 Bathurst Bathurst Island 833 Battery Hill Mining Centre 868 Bay of Fires 668 beaches 25 Beachport 764 Beachport Conservation Park 764 Beauty Point Bedourie 380

2 1096 INDEX B - C Beechworth beer 31, , see also breweries Bellarine Peninsula Bellingen Bells Beach 540 Ben Boyd National Park 255 Ben Lomond National Park 680 Bendigo 574-9, 576 Bennelong 1033 Bennett, Shannon 507 Bermagui Berri Berrima Berry 244 Bicheno bicycle travel, see cycling Big Day Out 29 Bingara 198 birds 1050, see also birdwatching Birdsville 380 Birdsville Track 49, 380, 806 birdwatching 53, 1055, see also wildlife watching New South Wales 68, 161, 167, 174, 204, 251 Northern Territory 811, 815, 837, 843, 896 Queensland 289, 362, 393, 411, 438, 451 South Australia 752, 759, 761, 772 Tasmania 663, 666, 668, 674 Victoria 527, 531, 556, 572, 615 Western Australia 961, 965, 980, 1002, 1009, 1014, 1015, 1021 Birdwood 743 Bitter Springs 865 Black Mountain National Park 434 Blackdown Tableland National Park 371 Blackfellows Blinman 799 Blue Lake 764 Blue Mountains National Park , 137, 51 Boat Harbour boat travel 1082, see also sailing Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Bondi 21, 92-4, 94, 21, 120, 121 Booderee National Park 247 Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park 464 books 1028 Booti Booti National Park Borroloola 866 Boulia 379 Bourke Bowen Bowra breweries New South Wales 243 Queensland 293 South Australia 721, 751, 794 Tasmania 630, 640 Victoria 514, 562 Western Australia 912, 931 Bribie Island 316 Bridgetown 949 Bright Brisbane , 284-5, 288-9, 292, 298, 301, 311 accommodation activities children, travel with 287 drinking & nightlife emergency services 309 entertainment festivals & events food history 283 internet access 309 medical services 309 money 309 shopping sights tourist information 309 tours travel to/from travel within 310 walking tour 294, 294 Brisbane Botanic Gardens 289 Brisbane Festival 31, 295, 296 Broad Arrow 969 Broadbeach Broken Hill 233-7, 234 Brookfield Place 24 Broome 16, , 1010, 16 Bruny Island Buchan 613 budget 23 Buley Rockhole 838 Bunbury Bunda Cliffs 792 Bundaberg Bundanoon Bungendore 273 bungy jumping 417 Burleigh Heads 324-6, 55 Burnie Burra 783 bus travel 1083, bush tucker 1057 bushfires 528, 1028, 1053, 1065 bushwalking 52, 57 Canberra 264 New South Wales 68, 139, 219 Northern Territory 811 Queensland 279 South Australia 714 Tasmania 623, 702 Victoria 551 Western Australia 905 business hours 1074 Busselton Byfield National Park 369 Byron Bay 14, , 184, 14 C Cable Beach 1008 Cairns , , 433 accommodation activities 417 drinking emergency services 431 entertainment 430 food internet access 431 medical services 431 money 431 shopping 431 sights tourist information 431 tours travel to/from travel within Caloundra camel riding Alice Springs 875 Broome 1009 Coward Springs 806 Kings Canyon 889 Quorn Stuarts Well 890 Uluru 891 Campbell Town campervans camping Canberra 15, , 257, 260, 262, 15 accommodation 256, activities children, travel with 259 climate 256 drinking & nightlife emergency services 271 entertainment 270 festivals & events 265 food 256, highlights 257 history 259 internet access 271 medical services 271 shopping sights tourist information 271 tours 265 travel to/from travel within 272 Canberra Museum & Gallery 263 Canberra Space Centre 273 cane toads 279 Canning Stock Route 970 canoeing, see kayaking & canoeing Canowindra 209 Cape Arid National Park 963 Cape Bridgewater 549 Cape Conran 615 Cape Jervis 748 Cape Kimberley 453 Cape Le Grand National Park 963 Cape Naturaliste 943 Cape Otway 544 Cape Range National Park Cape Tribulation 456-7, 454 Cape York Peninsula , Capricorn Coast , 364 car travel 47, 1072, caravanning Cardwell Carnarvon 986-8

3 1097 Carnarvon Gorge 372 Carnarvon National Park 372 Carrickalinga 747 cassowaries 411 Castlemaine Cataract Gorge 669 Cathedral Cave 768 Cave Gardens 765 caves Buchan 613 Capricorn Caves 368 Coonawarra 768 Cutta Cutta 861 Engelbrecht Cave 765 Hastings Caves 652 Jenolan Caves 138 Lake Cave 945 Mt Gambier 765 Mulkas Cave 972 Murrawijinie 792 Wombeyan Caves 223 Yourambulla 797 Ceduna cell phones 22, Cervantes Chambers Pillar 890 Charleville Charlotte Pass 222 Charters Towers 400 Childers 359 children, travel with Adelaide 723 Brisbane 287 Canberra 259 Hobart 635 Melbourne 478 Perth 913 Sydney 100 Chillagoe 441 Chowilla Game Reserve 773 Christies Beach 747 Christmas Island 1002 City Botanic Gardens, Brisbane 283 Clare 782 Clare Valley Clifton Beach 436 climate 22, 29-32, 1049, 1053, see also individual regions climate change 1053 Cloncurry Cobourg Peninsula 856 Cockatoo Island 74 Cockle Creek Cocos (Keeling) Islands 1002 coffee 1058 Coffin Bay National Park 790 Coffs Harbour 173-8, 174 Coles Bay colloquial language 1030 Commodore Point 749 consulates convicts 77, 655, Conway National Park 393 Coober Pedy 801-4, 802 Cooinda Cook, James , 1034, 1032 Cooktown Coolangatta Coolgardie Cooloola Coast Cooma Coonabarabran 203 Coonawarra Coongie Lakes 806 Cooper Creek 455 Coopers Brewery 721 Coorong National Park Coral Bay Coral Coast , Corinna 696 Corryong 568 Cossack 999 Coulta 790 Country Music Festival 199 Cow Bay 453 Cowaramup 944 Coward Springs 805 Cowra Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park 17, 701-5, 17 Crater Lakes National Park credit cards 1073 Crescent Head cricket 487, 501, 1036, crime 1065 Croajingolong National Park crocodiles 275, , 837, 843, 1051, 1064 Crowe, Russell 180 Croydon cruises 1082 culture , see also Aboriginal culture Cumberland River 542 currency 22 Currency Creek 744 currency exchange 1074 customs regulations 1069 cycling 52, 1082 New South Wales 68, 98, , 139 Northern Territory 821, 875 Queensland 291 South Australia 722-3, 782 Tasmania 631 Victoria 474, 592 Western Australia 905, 911 Cyclone Tracy 813 Cygnet 650 D D Aguilar Range National Park 291 Daintree National Park 13, 452, 13 Daintree Village Daly River Daly Waters 867 Dampier 998 Dampier Peninsula Dandenong Ranges dangers, see safety Darling Downs Darwin 18, , 814, , 846, 847 accommodation drinking emergency services 831 entertainment festivals 823 food medical services 831 money 831 shopping sights tourist information 832 travel to/from 832 travel within Daydream Island 393 Daylesford daylight saving 1077 debit cards Deloraine dengue fever 1065, 1071 Denham Deniliquin Denmark D Entrecasteaux National Park 949 Derby deserts 1055 Devil s Marbles 869 Devonian Reef National Parks Devonport diarrhoea Dig Tree 806 Dimboola 557 Dinner Plain 601 dinosaurs 378, 1008 disabilities, travellers with 1077 diving & snorkelling Byron Bay 186 Cairns 418 Christmas Island 1002 Cocos (Keeling) Islands 1002 Coffs Harbour 175 Great Barrier Reef 40-2, 55, 54, 423 New South Wales 68 Ningaloo Marine Park 997 Queensland South Australia 714 Sydney 98 Tasmania 623 Townsville 397 Western Australia 905 dolphin watching 57 New South Wales 69, 247 Queensland 314 Western Australia 941, 985-6, 56 Dongara Dorrigo National Park 172 Douglas-Apsley National Park 665 Dover 652 drinking , see also individual locations driving, see car travel drownings 1064 drug use 1072 Dryandra Woodland 971 Drysdale River 1019 Dubbo Dudley Peninsula dugongs 57 Duncan Road 1022 Dunk Island 411 Dunkeld 555 Dunsborough DVDs 1067 Dwellingup E Eaglehawk Neck 654 East MacDonnell Ranges INDEX C - E

4 1098 INDEX E- H echidnas 1051 Echuca 563-7, 564 Edel Land 984 Eden Edith Falls 861 Edithburgh 785 electricity 1069 Ellery Creek Big Hole 886 Elliott 867 Ellis Beach 437 Elliston 790 Elsey National Park 865 embassies Emerald 371 emergency services 23, see also individual locations Emily Gap 884 employment Emu Bay 758, encephalitis 1065, 1071 Engelbrecht Cave 765 entertainment, see individual locations environment environmental issues 1052 Ernest Giles Road 890 Errinundra National Park 614 Esperance etiquette 1030, 1058 Eureka Stockade 572, 1036 Evandale events, see festivals & events Ewaninga exchange rates 23 Exmouth 993-6, 994 Eyre Peninsula , 787 F Falls Creek farmstays 1068 Federation Square 478 festivals & events 29-32, see also individual locations film 1028 Australian Centre for the Moving Image 479 Melbourne International Film Festival 31, 501 National Film & Sound Archive 261 Tropfest 29 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Finch Hatton Gorge 388 Finke Gorge National Park fishing 57, 56 Northern Territory 811 Queensland 280 Tasmania 623 Fitzgerald River National Park Fitzroy Island 434 Fleurieu Peninsula , 745 Flinders Chase National Park Flinders Island 705-8, 791 Flinders Ranges , 795 Flinders Ranges National Park floods 278, 1028 Florence Falls 838 flowers 1052 food 14, , 1070, see also individual locations football 31, 496, 501, 737, 822, 833-4, 1060, 19 Footscray 483 Formula One Grand Prix 30 Fort Denison 74 four-wheel driving 1087 François Peron National Park 985 Frankland Islands 435 Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park Fraser Island 20, , 348, 20 Fremantle 16, , 926 accommodation activities 928 drinking 931 entertainment 931 festivals & events 929 food history 925 medical services 932 shopping 932 sights tourist information 932 tours 929 travel to/from 932 travel within 932 Freycinet National Park G galleries 27, see also museums Araluen Arts Centre 871 Art Gallery of Ballarat 571 Art Gallery of NSW 77 Art Gallery of South Australia 717 Art Gallery of Western Australia 910 Australian Centre for Contemporary Art 486 Australian Centre for the Moving Image 479 Bendigo Art Gallery 575 Cairns Regional Gallery 415 Canberra Museum & Gallery 263 Centre of Contemporary Arts, Cairns 416 Gallery of Modern Art, Brisbane 286 Geelong Art Gallery 535 Heide 482 Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia 478 Institute of Modern Art 287 MONA 12, 631, 12 Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory Museum of Contemporary Art 74 National Gallery of Australia 259 National Portrait Gallery Newcastle Art Gallery 149 NGV International 483 Norman Lindsay Gallery & Museum 136 Nyinkka Nyunyu 868 Perth Institute of Contemporary Arts 910 Pro Hart Gallery 235 Queensland Art Gallery 286 Queen Victoria Museum & Art Gallery 670 Tasmanian Museum & Art Gallery 627 Gallery of Modern Art, Brisbane 286 Gallipoli 1038 gardens, see parks & gardens Gascoyne Coast gay travellers 102, 516, 725, 1070 Geelong 535-8, 538 Geeveston 651 Geoffrey Bay 24 Geographe Bay geology George Town 678 Geraldton , 978 giardia 1065 Gibb River Road Gillard, Julia 1028, 1041 Gippsland , Gippsland Lakes Girraween National Park 343 Glass House Mountains Glen Annie Gorge 885 Glen Innes 198 Glendambo 801 Glenelg 721 Glenrowan 586 Gnarraloo Bay 988 Goat Island 74 gold 569, 578, 1035 Gold Coast 14, , 317, 14 Goolwa Goulburn 224 Goulburn Valley Grafton Grampians (Gariwerd) 551-5, 552 Granger, Bill 109 Great Barrier Reef 10, 37-42, , 11, 54, 419, 420, 422, 423, 424 Great Keppel Island Great Ocean Road 13, 474, , 536-7, 13 Great Sandy National Park Green Head Green Island 434 Greenly Beach 790 Gregory National Park 864 Gregory s Tree 864 Griffith GST 1074 Guilderton 972 Gulf St Vincent Gulgong Gumeracha 743 Gunbalanya Gundagai Gunlom 854 Gympie H Hahndorf Hall 273

5 1099 Halls Gap Hamelin Pool 983 Hamilton Island 394 Hanging Rock 522 Harrietville 601 Harts Range 870 Hartz Mountains National Park Hastings Caves 652 Hat Head National Park Hattah-Kulkyne National Park 556 Hawker Hawkesbury River Hawks Nest Hayman Island 394, 26 Head of Bight 792 Healesville Healesville Sanctuary 527 health heatstroke 1071 Henbury Meteorite Craters 890 Henley-on-Todd Regatta 876 hepatitis C 1065 Hepburn Springs Herberton 445 Hermannsburg 887 Heron Island Hervey Bay 354-9, Heysen Trail 716 High Country , hiking, see bushwalking Hinchinbrook Island National Park 407 Hindmarsh Island Bridge 750 history , see also Aboriginal history, individual locations hitching 1090 HIV 1065 Hobart , 628, 632 accommodation activities 631 children, travel with 635 drinking & nightlife emergency services 642 entertainment 641 festivals & events food history internet access 642 medical services 643 money 643 shopping sights tourist information 643 tours travel to/from 643 travel within 643 holidays 29-32, 1075 Holloways Beach 435 Hook Island 393 Hope Islands National Park 461 horse racing 823, 876, 1061 Melbourne Cup 32, 501, 1038, 1061 horse riding Kimberley, the 1018 Mansfield 591 Snowy Mountains 217 Sydney 98 Horsham 555 hostels hot springs 582 Bitter Springs 865 Coward Springs 806 Daylesford 582 Hastings Caves 652 Mataranka 865 Peninsula Hot Springs 530 hotels 1068 Howard, John 1041 Hunter Valley 143-9, 144 Huonville Hyden 972 I Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia 478 Ikara 797 immigration 1081 Indigenous art, see Aboriginal art Indigenous culture, see Aboriginal culture Indigenous history, see Aboriginal history Indigenous people, see Aboriginal people Ingalalla Falls 748 Ingham Injalak Hill 855 Innamincka 806 Innes National Park Innisfail 412 insurance 1071, 1072 international calls 1076 internet access 1072, see also individual locations internet resources 23 Inverell 198 Iron Range National Park 469 irukandji 1064 itineraries 33-6, 33, 34, 35, 36 J Jabiru 852 Jardine River 470 Jardine River National Park 470 Jawoyn Valley 862 jellyfish 367, 1064 Jenolan Caves 138 Jervis Bay Jessie Gap 884 Jim Jim Falls 853 Jindabyne John Hayes Rockhole 884 Junee 228 Jurien Bay K Kadina 784 Kakadu National Park 18, 841-4, 851-5, 842, 7, 18 Kalbarri 980-3, 981 Kalgoorlie-Boulder Kalumburu 1020 Kangaroo Island , 754 Kangaroo Valley kangaroos Kanowna 969 Kantju Gorge 897 Karijini National Park , 1001, 21 Karratha Karumba 463 Kata Tjuta 896, 896, 845 Katherine , 858 Katherine Gorge 861 Katherine River 861 kayaking & canoeing, see also white-water rafting New South Wales 69, 100, 187 Northern Territory 861, 862 Queensland 281 South Australia 751, 753, 773 Tasmania 623 Keep River National Park Kelly, Ned 586 Kempsey 166 Kennett River 542 Keppel Bay Islands 371 Kettering Kiama Kidman Trail 716 Kiewa Valley Kimberley, the Kinchega National Park 238 King Island King Valley Kings Canyon 888-9, 889, 850 Kings Park & Botanic Garden, Perth 910, 17 Kingscote Kingston-On-Murray 770 Knights Beach 749 Kondalilla National Park 342 koalas 1050 Billabong Koala & Wildlife Park 163 Koala Conservation Centre 532 Koala Hospital 161 Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary 289 New South Wales 169 Queensland 275 Kookynie 970 Koonwarra 606 Kosciuszko National Park 218 Kundjarra 868 Kununurra Kuranda , 439 Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park 97-8 Kwong, Kylie 109 Kwongan 973 Kyneton 522 L Lady Elliot Island 362 Lady Musgrave Island 362 Lake Albert 761 Lake Argyle 1024 Lake Ballard 969 Lake Bonney 770 Lake Cave 945, 19 Lake Cooroibah 341 Lake Cootharaba 341 Lake Eildon National Park Lake Eyre 805 Lake Mountain 528 Lake Pedder Lake Tinaroo 442 INDEX H - L

6 1100 INDEX L- M Lakefield National Park 469 Lakeland 468 Lakes Entrance Lamington National Park Lancelin land rights 810 Langhorne Creek 744 language 22, 1030 Larapinta Drive Larapinta Trail Larrimah 867 Lasseter Highway Launceston , 670, 672 accommodation activities drinking entertainment festivals & events 673 food money 676 shopping 676 sights tourist information 676 tours travel to/from 676 travel within 677 Laura 468, 794 Laura Aboriginal Dance Festival 30, 468 Laverton 970 Leeman legal matters Leigh Creek 799 Leliyn 861 Lennox Head Leonora 970 lesbian travellers 102, 516, 725, 1070 Lesueur National Park 974 Lightning Ridge Limestone Coast Limmen National Park 866 Lincoln National Park 789 Lindeman Island 394 Lismore Litchfield National Park Little Desert National Park live music 27, 1030 Lizard Island 460 lizards 1051 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Lobethal local transport 1091 Long Island Longford 679 Longreach Lord Howe Island 167 Lorne Low Head 679 Loxton Luna Park, Melbourne 493 Luna Park, Sydney 95-6, 116 M Macarthur, John 1033 MacDonnell Ranges Mackay 381-6, 383 Maffra 610 Magnetic Island Maguk 854 Main Beach Malanda 444 Maldon 581 Mallacoota Mallee 556 mammals Mamukala 843 Mandalay 954 Mandorah 833 Mandurah 938 Manilla 198 Manjimup 951 Manly 96-7, 96 Mannum 769 Mansfield Mapleton Falls National Park 342 Marble Bar 1004 Mareeba Margaret River 944-5, 946 Margaret River Gourmet Escape 24, 32 Margaret River wine region Maria Island National Park 661 Marion Bay 785 markets Adelaide 717, 721 Brisbane 308 Darwin 817, 830 Eumundi markets 333 Kuranda Original Rainforest Markets 438 Melbourne 519 Queen Victoria Market 482 Salamanca Market 642 Sydney 128 Sydney Fish Market 88 Marla 805 Marlo 615 Maroochy Marrawah 694 Marree 806 Mary River 836 Mary River Billabong 836 Maryborough Marysville 528 Maslin Beach 747 Mataranka Mawson Trail 716 McArthur River 866 McLaren Vale measures 1067 medical services 1071, see also individual locations Meekatharra 976 Melbourne 13, , 480-1, 484-5, 489, 490, 492, 494, 523, 13 accommodation activities children, travel with 478 drinking & nightlife emergency services 520 entertainment festivals & events food history 478, 1034 internet access 520 internet resources 520 medical services 520 money 520 shopping sights tourist information 520 tours travel to/from travel within walking tour 498, 498 Melbourne Aquarium 482 Melbourne Cricket Ground 487 Melbourne Cup 32, 501, 1038, 1061 Melbourne International Film Festival 31, 501 Melbourne Museum 490 Melrose 794 Melville Island 833 Memory Cove 790 Menindee Lakes 238 Meningie 761 meningococcal disease 1065 Menzies 969 Menzies, Robert 1040 Mereenie Loop Road 49, 888 Merimbula Metung 611 Middleton 749 Milawa 594 Mildura , 560 Milikapiti 833 Millaa Millaa Millstream-Chichester National Park Millthorpe 208 mining 851 Mintabie 805 Mintaro Mission Beach Mitchell Plateau 1019 Mittagong mobile phones 22, Mole Creek MONA 12, 631, 12 MONA FOMA 29 Monarto Zoo 769 money 22, 23, 1067, 1069, Monkey Mia 985-6, 56 Montague Island 250 Moomba 806 Moonta Moran, Matt 109 Moree Moreton Bay Moreton Island Mornington Peninsula Mornington Peninsula National Park 531 Mossman 451 motels 1068 motorcycle travel mountain biking, see cycling Mount Gambier Mt Augustus 987 Mt Arapiles 555 Mt Barker 959 Mt Baw Baw Mt Beauty Mt Buffalo National Park 596 Mt Buller Mt Conner 890 Mt Field National Park 645-6

7 1101 Mt Hotham Mt Hypipamee National Park 445 Mt Isa 374-5, 375 Mt Kosciuszko 219 Mt Lofty 742 Mt Macedon 522 Mt Molloy 434 Mt Olga 896 Mt Remarkable 794 Mt Remarkable National Park 794 Mt William National Park Mudgee Mulkas Cave 972 multiculturalism 1039, 1056 Mundi Mundi 238 Mungo National Park 232-3, 28 Murphy s Haystacks 791 Murramarang National Park 251 Murrawijinie Cave 792 Murray Bridge 769 Murray River , , Murray River National Park 772 Murray-Darling Basin 1054 Murray-Sunset National Park 556 Murrumbidgee River Corridor 273 Murwillumbah Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory Museum of Central Australia 871 Museum of Contemporary Art 24 museums 1035, see also galleries Australian Museum 77 Australian National Maritime Museum 88 Australian War Memorial Canberra Museum & Gallery 263 Gold Museum 571 Hyde Park Barracks Museum 84 Immigration Museum 482 Jewish Museum of Australia 495 Melbourne Museum 490 Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory Museum of Australian Democracy, Canberra 261 Museum of Australian Democracy at Eureka 572 Museum of Central Australia 871 Museum of Contemporary Art 74 Museum of Sydney 83 Museum of Tropical Queensland 396 National Museum of Australia 261, 15 National Sports Museum 487 National Wool Museum 536 Newcastle Regional Museum 149 Powerhouse Museum 85 Queen Victoria Museum & Art Gallery 670 Queensland Maritime Museum 287 Queensland Museum & Sciencentre 286 South Australian Museum 717 Sydney Jewish Museum 91 Tasmanian Museum & Art Gallery 627 The Rocks Discovery Museum 76 Museum Albany 956 Museum Geraldton 977 Museum Kalgoorlie-Boulder 966 Museum Maritime 927 Museum Perth 910 music 27, 1030 Mutawintji National Park 238 Mutitjulu Waterhole 897 Myall Lakes National Park Myrtleford 596 N Nagambie 585 Namadgi National Park 273 Namatjira, Albert 872, 887 Namatjira Drive Nambucca Heads Nambung National Park 973 Nannup 948 Nardab Lookout 851 Narooma Nathan River Road National Film & Sound Archive 261 National Gallery of Australia 259 National Library of Australia 24, 264 National Museum of Australia 261, 15 national parks 1054 Alexander Morrison National Park 973 Badgingarra National Park 973 Barrington Tops National Park 160 Ben Boyd National Park 255 Ben Lomond National Park 680 Blackdown Tableland National Park 371 Black Mountain National Park 434 Blue Mountains National Park , 137, 51 Booderee National Park 247 Boodjamulla (Lawn Hill) National Park 464 Booti Booti National Park Byfield National Park 369 Cape Arid National Park 963 Cape Le Grand National Park 963 Cape Range National Park 997 Carnarvon National Park 372 Coffin Bay National Park 790 Conway National Park 393 Coorong National Park Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park 17, 701-5, 17 Crater Lakes National Park Croajingolong National Park D Aguilar Range National Park 291 Daintree National Park 13, 452, 13 D Entrecasteaux National Park 949 Devonian Reef National Parks Dorrigo National Park 172 Douglas-Apsley National Park 665 Elsey National Park 865 Errinundra National Park 614 Finke Gorge National Park Fitzgerald River National Park Flinders Chase National Park Flinders Ranges National Park François Peron National Park 985 Franklin-Gordon Wild Rivers National Park Freycinet National Park Girraween National Park 343 Great Sandy National Park Gregory National Park 864 Hartz Mountains National Park Hat Head National Park Hattah-Kulkyne National Park 556 Hinchinbrook Island National Park 407 Hope Islands National Park 461 Innes National Park Iron Range National Park 469 Jardine River National Park 470 Kakadu National Park 18, 841-4, 851-5, 842, 7, 18 Kalbarri National Park 980-3, 981 Karijini National Park , 1001, 21 INDEX M - N

8 1102 INDEX N - P national parks continued Keep River National Park Kinchega National Park 238 Kondalilla National Park 342 Kosciuszko National Park 218 Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park 97-8 Lake Eildon National Park Lakefield National Park 469 Lamington National Park Lesueur National Park 974 Limmen National Park 866 Lincoln National Park 789 Litchfield National Park Little Desert National Park Mapleton Falls National Park 342 Maria Island National Park 661 Millstream-Chichester National Park Mornington Peninsula National Park 531 Mt Buffalo National Park Mt Field National Park Mt Hypipamee National Park 445 Mt Remarkable National Park 794 Mt William National Park Mungo National Park 232-3, 28 Murramarang National Park 251 Murray River National Park 772 Murray-Sunset National Park 556 Mutawintji National Park 238 Myall Lakes National Park Namadgi National Park 273 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Nambung National Park 973 New South Wales 67 Nitmiluk National Park Noosa National Park 331 Northern Territory 811 Paluma Range National Park 405 Peak Charles National Park 963 Point Nepean National Park 531 Porcupine Gorge National Park 373 Porongurup National Park Port Campbell National Park 545 Purnululu National Park 1023 Queensland 279 Royal National Park Shannon National Park 951 Simpson Desert National Park 50, Snowy River National Park 614 South Australia 711, 714 Southwest National Park 708 Springbrook National Park 328 Stirling Range National Park 960 Sturt National Park 239 Sydney Harbour National Park 71 Tamborine National Park 327 Tasmania 622 Tathra National Park 973 Tomaree National Park 155 Torndirrup National Park 959 Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park 12, , 12 Undara Volcanic National Park Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park 800 Walls of Jerusalem National Park 684 Walpole-Nornalup National Park 953 Warrumbungle National Park 204 Washpool National Park 201 Watarrka National Park West MacDonnell National Park Western Australia 904 Wilsons Promontory National Park 607-9, 608, 16 Wooroonooran National Park 412 Wyperfeld National Park 556 Yalgorup National Park 938 Yanchep National Park 972 National Portrait Gallery National Sports Museum 487 native foods 1057 Neighbours 500 Nelly Bay 24 Nelson Nepabunna 800 New England New Norcia New South Wales , 64-5, 134 accommodation 62 activities 67-9 climate 62 food 62 highlights 64-5 history 66 internet resources 63 planning 63 tours 69 travel to/from travel within Newcastle , 150 Newcastle Waters 867 Newman 1000 newspapers 1067 Nguiu 833 Ngukurr 866 Nguyen, Luke 109 NGV International 483 Nhill 557 Nimbin Ninety Mile Beach 610, 762 Ningaloo Marine Park Nitmiluk National Park Noah Beach 455 Noosa 331-4, 332 Noosa National Park 331 Norfolk Island 158 Normanton 463 Normanville Nornalup Norseman 964 Northern Territory , 808-9, accommodation 807 climate 807 food 807 highlights history 810 North Stradbroke Island Nourlangie Nowra nuclear power Nullarbor Plain Nundle 198 Nuriootpa O Oakbank 743 Oatlands 657 Ochre Pits 886 octopus 1064 Oenpelli Olgas, the, see Kata Tjuta Omeo Oodnadatta 805 Oodnadatta Track 49, 805 opals opening hours 1074 Ora Banda 969 Orange Orbost 615 Ord Valley Muster 30 Ormiston Gorge 886 Ormiston Pound 886 Outback, the 21, 28, 43-50, 21 Outback Way (Great Central Rd) outdoor activities 51-7 Overland Track 702 P Pacific Palms 159 Palm Cove Palm Valley 887 Paluma Range National Park 405 Para Wirra Recreation Park 778 Parachilna 799 Parachilna Gorge 799 Parap Village Market 817, 830

9 1103 Parkes 211 parks & gardens Adelaide 718, Alice Springs 874 Australian National Botanic Gardens Brisbane Botanic Gardens 289 City Botanic Gardens, Brisbane 283 Darwin 814, 817 Fitzroy Gardens 488 Flagstaff Gardens 482 Flecker Botanic Gardens 413 Kings Park & Botanic Garden, Perth 910, 17 Mt Lofty 742 Port Augusta 786 Royal Botanic Gardens, Melbourne 491 Royal Botanic Gardens, Sydney 76 South Bank Parklands 286 parliament houses Brisbane 283 Canberra 260 Darwin 815 Hobart 630 Melbourne 483 passports 1081 payphones 1076 Peak Charles National Park 963 Pemberton Penguin penguins New South Wales 250 Tasmania 666 Victoria 532 Western Australia 937 Penneshaw Penola Penong 792 Perisher Blue permits 48, 812 Perry, Neil 109 Perth 16, , 933, 908-9, 914, 917, 17 accommodation activities children, travel with 913 drinking & nightlife emergency services 923 entertainment festivals & events 912 food history 907, 1036 internet access 923 medical services 923 shopping sights tourist information 924 tours 912 travel to/from 924 travel within Perth Institute of Contemporary Arts 910 Phar Lap 1038 Phillip Island 531-5, 532 phonecards 1076 photography 1074 Pigeon House Mountain 249 Pilbara, the , Pimba 801 Pine Creek Pinnacles Desert Pipers River 669 planning, see also individual regions Australia basics 22-3 Australia s regions budgeting 22-3 internet resources 22-3, 48 itineraries 33-6 repeat visitors 24 travel seasons 22-3 weather 43-6 plants 1052 platypuses 1051 New South Wales 169 Queensland 275 Tasmania 677, 686 Victoria 527, 554 Plenty Highway 50 Point Avoid 790 Point Labatt 791 Point Lonsdale 525 Point Nepean National Park 531 Point Quobba 988 Point Samson 999 Point Turton 785 politics Porcupine Gorge National Park 373 Porongurup National Park Port Adelaide Port Arthur Port Augusta Port Campbell Port Campbell National Park 545 Port Denison Port Douglas , 447 Port Elliot Port Essington 856 Port Fairy Port Hedland Port Lincoln Port MacDonnell 765 Port Macquarie 161-6, Port Pirie Port Stephens Port Vincent 785 Port Willunga 747 Portland 550 Portsea possums 1052, 1055 postal services 1075 Powerhouse Museum 85 public holidays 1075 public transport 1091 Pularumpi 833 Purnululu National Park 1023 Q quarantine rules 1073 Queen Victoria Museum & Art Gallery 670 Queenscliff Queensland , accommodation 274 activities climate 274 food 274 highlights history 278 information 282 internet resources 275 tours 275 travel to/from 282 travel within 282 Queensland Art Gallery 286 Queensland Maritime Museum 287 Queensland Museum & Sciencentre 286 Queenstown quokkas 936 Quorn R rafting, see white-water rafting rail travel 1091 Rainbow Beach rainforests 1055 Rapid Bay 749 Ravenshoe Ravenswood 400 Ravine des Casoars 761 Red Centre Way 49, Red Rock 179 Redbank Gorge 886 Remarkable Rocks 760 Renmark Renner Springs 867 reptiles 1051 Richmond road rules 1089 Robe rock art , see also Aboriginal art Canberra 273 New South Wales 67 Northern Territory 823, 841, 843-4, 848, 851, 853, 855, 862, 864, 895 Queensland 278, 441, 468 South Australia 797, 798 Victoria 551, 553 Western Australia 971, 972, 987, 998, 1018, 1019, 1020, 1022 Rockhampton Rockingham 937 Rocks, the 75-6, 78-9 Roebourne 999 Roper Bar 866 Roper Highway 866 Rosevears 677 Ross Ross River 885 Ross River fever 1065, 1071 Rottnest Island 932-7, 934 Roxby Downs 801 Royal Botanic Gardens, Melbourne 491 Royal Botanic Gardens, Sydney 76 Royal Exhibition Building 490 Royal Flying Doctor Service Base 873 Royal National Park Rudd, Kevin 1028, 1040, 1041 rugby 1060 Rutherglen S safety , 1075 driving hiking 55 women travellers 1079 INDEX P- S

10 1104 INDEX S -T sailing 54-5 Airlie Beach 386 Great Barrier Reef Hobart 631 Queensland 280 Sydney 98-9 Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race 32, 627 Tasmania 623 Whitsunday Islands 384 Sandover Hwy 50 Savannah Way 866 School of the Air 857, 873 scuba diving, see diving & snorkelling sea lions 57 sea travel sea wasps 1064 seafood 1056 Sellicks Beach 747 September Beach 790 Serpentine Gorge 886 Seventy-Five Mile Beach 347 Shannon National Park 951 Shark Bay Shark Island 74 sharks 1052, 1064 Sheffield 685 Shepparton 585 shopping, see markets, individual locations Silverton Simpson Desert National Park 50, Simpsons Gap 886 skiing 53 Charlotte Pass 222 Falls Creek Mt Baw Baw 605 Mt Buffalo 596 Mt Buller 592 Mt Hotham New South Wales 68-9 Snowy Mountains 215, 221 Thredbo 219 skydiving 821 slang 1030 smoking 1067 snakes 1051, 1064 Snelling Beach 759 snorkelling, see diving & snorkelling snowboarding 53 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Snowy Mountains Snowy River National Park 614 soccer 737, 1060 Sorell 654 Sorrento Sorry Day 1040, 1040 South Australia , accommodation 710 activities climate 710 highlights history 711 tourist information 715 tours 715 travel to/from travel within South Australian Museum 717 South Molle Island 393 South West Rocks Southport Southwest National Park 708, 2 spiders sports 19, 264, 487, , see also individual sports Springbrook National Park 328 Standley Chasm 886 Stanley Stanthorpe State Library of Victoria 483 Steep Point 984 St Helens St Marys stingers 1064 Stirling Stirling Range National Park 960 Stokes Bay 759 Stolen Generations 1046 Stone Hut 794 Strahan Strathgordon Streaky Bay 791 stromatolites 983 Strzelecki Track 49, 806 Stuarts Well 890 Sturt National Park 239 Sunshine Coast , 330 Surfers Paradise 320-4, 322 surfing 54-5, 1061 Agnes Water 363 Bells Beach 540 Blackfellows Burleigh Heads 325 Byron Bay 186 Coffs Harbour 176 Gold Coast 321 Goolwa 751 Innes National Park 785 Kangaroo Island 752 Lancelin 972 Margaret River 945 Maroochy 339 New South Wales 69 Perth 911 Port Elliot 749 Port Lincoln 788 Port Macquarie 164 Queensland Robe 763 Surfers Paradise 320 Sydney 99 Tasmania 623 Torquay 539 Western Australia 905 Wollongong 243 Surfleet Cove 790 Swan Hill Swan Reach 769 Swansea swimming 1061 Queensland 281 safety 1064 Sydney 99 Tasmania 623 Sydney , 72-3, 80, 82-3, 85, 86-7, 90, 134 accommodation activities 98-9 children, travel with 100 drinking & nightlife 114, emergency services 130 entertainment festivals food internet access 130 medical services 130 money 130 shopping sights theatre 127 tourist information 130 tours travel to/from 131 travel within walking tours 78-9, 93, 79, 93 Sydney Festival 29 Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras 30, 101 Sydney Harbour 70-1, , 117, 122 Sydney Harbour Bridge 71, 116, 122 Sydney Harbour National Park 71 Sydney Observatory 76 Sydney Opera House 11, 74, 10, 115, 122 Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race 32, 627 Sydney Tower Eye 78, 81 T Tamar Valley Tamborine Mountain Tamborine National Park 327 Tamworth Tamworth Country Music Festival 29 Tanami Road 50, 870, 1025 Tasman Peninsula 653-6, 653 Tasmania , 620-1, 647, 660, 678, 690-1, accommodation 618 activities climate 618 food 618, 626 highlights history 619 tourist information 624 tours 624 travel to/from travel within Tasmanian devils 655, 1055 Tasmanian Museum & Art Gallery 627 Tasmanian tigers 655 Tathra National Park 973 taxes 1074, 1080 Tea Gardens telephone services 22, television 1067 Tennant Creek tennis 499, 1061 Tenterfield The Rocks Discovery Museum 76 theft 1065 theme parks 25 Dreamworld 319 Luna Park, Melbourne 493

11 1105 Luna Park, Sydney 95 Sea World 319 Warner Bros Movie World 319 Wet n Wild 319 Whitewater World 319 thermal springs, see hot springs Thornton Beach 455 Thredbo Three Sisters 137 Three Ways 867 Thursday Island Tibooburra tick typhus 1065 Tidbinbilla 273 Tilba 251 Timber Creek 864 Timbertown 161 time 22 time zones tipping 1057 Tiwi Islands toilets 1077 Tolmer Falls Tom Price 1000 Tomaree National Park 155 Toowoomba Torndirrup National Park 959 Torquay Torrens River Gorge 743 Torres Strait Islanders 1042 Torres Strait Islands tourist information 1077, see also individual locations tourist visas 1078 tours 1091, see also individual locations Tower Hill Reserve 548 Town of Townsville , 396 train travel 1091 tramping, see bushwalking travel to/from Australia travel within Australia travellers cheques 1074 Triabunna 661 Trinity Beach Tropfest 29 Tully Tumby Bay 789 turtles 275, 361, 362, 995 Tweed Heads 194 Twelve Apostles 13, 547, 13 Twin Falls 853 Tylers Pass Lookout 887 U Ubirr Uluru 894, 895-6, 895, 12 Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park 12, Ulverstone Umbrawarra Gorge Nature Park 840 Umpherston Sinkhole 765 Undara Volcanic National Park uranium mining 851, 1054 V vacations 29-32, 1075 Valley of the Giants 953 Valley of the Winds 896 vegetarian travellers 1058 Venus Bay 791 Victor Harbor Victoria , accommodation 473 climate 473 food 473 highlights history 475 Victoria River Crossing 864 visas 22, 1072, volunteering Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park 800 W Wagga Wagga Waikerie Walhalla walking, see bushwalking walking tours Brisbane 294, 294 Melbourne 498, 498 Sydney 78-9, 93, 79, 93 Wallace Rockhole 887 Wallaroo 784 Walls of Jerusalem National Park 684 Walpa Gorge 896 Walpole Walpole-Nornalup National Park 953 Wangaratta Wangi Falls 839 Warren Conservation Park 778 Warrnambool Warrumbungle National Park 204 Washpool National Park 201 Watarrka National Park water, drinking Waterhouse River 865 Wave Rock 971 weather 22, 29-32, 1049, 1053, see also individual regions Weetootla Gorge 800 weights 1067 Weipa 469 Wentworth West MacDonnell National Park West MacDonnell Ranges West Terrace Cemetery 24 Western Australia 19, , 902-3, 940, 952-3, accommodation 901 activities 905 climate 901 food 901 highlights history 904, 1036 tourist information 906 tours travel to/from 906 travel within Museum Albany 956 Museum Geraldton 977 Museum Kalgoorlie-Boulder 966 Museum Maritime 927 Museum Perth 910 Western River Cove 759 Wet Cave 768 whale watching 30, 57, 1051, 1055 Coffs Harbour 176 Hervey Bay 355 New South Wales 69 Ningaloo Marine Park 997 Perth 911 Queensland 275 South Australia Sydney 101 Warrnambool 547 Western Australia 905 whaling 1051 White Australia policy 1037 White Cliffs 239 Whitehaven Beach 393, 422 white-water rafting, see also kayaking & canoeing New South Wales 69 Queensland 281, 407, 418 Tasmania 623, 700 Whitlam, Gough 1040 Whitsunday Coast , 382 Whitsunday Island Whitsunday Islands 15, 384, 392-4, 15, 26, 422 Whyalla 788 wildflowers 973, 1052 wildlife watching 20, 52-3, , , see also birdwatching, whale watching, zoos Great Barrier Reef New South Wales 63, 169 Northern Territory 811, 837 Queensland 275 Victoria 527 William Creek 805 Williamstown 497 Willunga Wilpena Pound 797 Wilson Island 363 Wilsons Promontory National Park 16, 607-9, 608, 16 wine regions 26-7, 1059 Adelaide 721 Adelaide Hills 740-4, 741 Barossa Valley 774-9, 775, 18 Canberra 272 Clare Valley Coal River Valley 645 Coonawarra Granite Belt 343 Hunter Valley Kangaroo Island Margaret River McLaren Vale 714, Mudgee 213 New South Wales 69 Orange 207 Queensland 281 Rutherglen 567 South Australia 18, 714 Tasmania INDEX T-W

12 1106 INDEX W-Z wine regions continued Wagga Wagga 227 Western Australia Yarra Valley Wineglass Bay 663 wineries, see wine regions Winton Wodonga 569 Wolfe Creek Meteorite Crater 1025 Wollongong 240-3, 241 WOMADelaide 30 wombats 1050, 20 Wombeyan Caves 223 women travellers 1065, 1079 Wonambi Fossil Centre Woodend 522 Woodford Folk Festival 342 Woodside 743 Woolgoolga 179 Wooli 179 Woomera 801 Wooroonooran National Park 412 Worimi Conservation Lands 155 work New South Wales 69 Northern Territory 812 Queensland 282, 417 South Australia 773 Tasmania 624 Victoria 562, 585 Western Australia 906 World Heritage sites 1053, 1055 WWI 1038 WWII 813, 1039 WWOOFing 1079 Wye River 542 Wyndham 1021 Wynyard 692 Wyperfeld National Park 556 Y yachting, see sailing Yackandandah 595 Yalgorup National Park 938 Yallingup Yamba Yanchep National Park 972 Yangie Bay 790 Yankalilla 747 Yarra Valley Yass 224 Yellow Water Yeppoon Yorke Peninsula Yorkeys Knob 435 Young 210 Younghusband Peninsula 761 Yourambulla Caves 797 Yuendumu 870 Yulara , 898 Yungaburra Z zoos Adelaide Zoo Alice Springs 873 Australia Zoo 337 Monarto Zoo 769 National Zoo & Aquarium 264 Rockhampton Zoo 366 Royal Melbourne Zoo 491 Werribee Open Range Zoo 501 WILD LIFE Sydney Zoo 85 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

13 1092 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Sylvie Addor, Melissa-Kate Ashwell-Meijer, Dennis Balemans, Bettina Bergmann-Remy, Aida Bour, Nicola Broderick, Nico Bryant- Stevens, Raymond Chan, Jane Coffey, Patricia Collé, Nicolas Combremont, Florian Cottez, Colin Davies, Richard Devlin, Anke Dijkstra, Silvia Disch, Missy Dugan, Lacroix Elodie, Maurici Espinar, Robert Eustace, Orly Flax, Stephen Gates, Sarah Hatherell, Len Kirby, Yero Kuethe, Irina Kulina, Ellen Lemson, Jane Luckraft, Megan Mann, Jeroen Martens, Molly Massingham, Bruce McKay, Javier Mendez, Charlotte Middleton, Erica Minarik, Dagmar Moehring, Domitille Motte, Konrad Nerger, Kim Niggemeyer, Kim Price, Christian Proulx, Summer Read, Michael Reeves, Ilona Renwick, Bo Rud Nielsen, Elisabeth Schiske, Marianne Schmid, Trevor Scott, Rob Seabourne, Justyn Shaw, Stine Skovgaard, Kevin Smythe, Heather Stafford, Johanna Teichmann, Steve Tervet, Marie Umbricht, Corrine Van Vliet, Jeroen van Heeren, Melissa Verrier Daunais, Timothy Wei, Alastair Weston, Jay Wiener, Malcolm Wilcock, Pennie Williams, Hansie Wong AUTHOR THANKS Charles-Rawlings Way Huge thanks to Maryanne for the gig, and to our highway-addled coauthors, who covered a helluva lot of kilometres in search of the perfect review. Thanks also to the all-star inhouse LP production staff, and in Brisbane thanks to Christian, Lauren, Rachel, Brett and all the kids. Special thanks as always to Meg, my road-trippin sweetheart, and our daughters Ione and Remy who provided countless laughs, unscheduled pitstops and ground-level perspectives along the way. Meg Worby Thank you Maryanne, for the gig! Big ups to the in-house team at LP for turning our many weeks of exploration into a useful thing you can hold in your hand. In Brisbane: huge thanks to Lauren, Christian, Orlando, Ilaria and friends for great company and insider tips. To our little daughters, Ione and Remy, it was the smoothest trip yet nice work pulling your own suitcases! Love, as ever, to Charles away and at home, you make hard work seem easy. Brett Atkinson Thanks to the keen and professional staff at WA s visitor centres who smoothed the way for information gathering, allowing me to focus on

14 the vital task of taste testing the craft breweries of Margaret River. In Perth, thanks to Amanda Keenan for the pre-trip hit list. Special thanks to my fellow scribe Steve Waters, and also to the Lonely Planet inhouse team, especially Maryanne Netto for her support. Final thanks to Carol for holding the fort back home in Auckland. Lindsay Brown Thanks to Lizzie and Phoebe in Alice, and Jenny, Sinead and Pat at home. Cheers to all the national parks rangers that put up with my questions and the great staff at all the Northern Territory visitor centres. Finally, thanks to Meg, Charles and Maryanne for getting this whole show on the road. Jayne D Arcy Sharik D Arcy you ve done it again. Thanks for making all this possible and for letting me take little Ruby and big Miles on the adventure. Thanks for coming along, too. Thanks Miles for reminding me how cool koalas and penguins are! Dave Carswell, James Smith and Matt Holden, kudos for sharing your Melbourne with me, and all the wonderful folk who made travelling a joy. Thanks to my coauthor Paul, and Maryanne for commissioning me. Anthony Ham Thanks to Maryanne Netto for sending me to such wonderful places, to David Andrew for so many wise wildlife tips and to every person I met along the road from knowledgeable and patient tourist office staff to other travellers. Thanks to Ron and Jan for their infinite hospitality and patience. And to Marina, Carlota and Valentina home is wherever you are. Paul Harding Thanks to those who put me up or helped with tips and advice. Brian, Kerry, Martyn and Braidyn in Swan Hill; Matt, Simone, Xavier and Remy in Yack; Chad, Kylie, Amy, Parker Will; Phil, Ashleigh and Dan in central Vic; mum and dad in Castlemaine. Thanks to coauthor Jayne. But mostly to my occasional travel partners, Hannah and Layla. Shawn Low Thanks always to the crew at LP. Maryanne for opening the door and Charles and Meg for illuminating the path through it. Of course, thanks to the production staff, the heart of everything LP! Cheers to innumerable travellers I met on the road: your tips, company and advice were much appreciated. Of course, thanks to Wyn for being so amazing. Virginia Maxwell Many thanks to Maryanne Netto, Diana von Holdt, Charles Rawlings-Way, Meg Worby, Elizabeth Maxwell, Matthew Clarke, Bridget Smyth, Christopher Procter, Peter Handsaker and Max Handsaker. Tom Spurling Thanks to Maryanne Netto for getting me to go around again. High fives to Bob and Bulldog for their political wisdom and for reminding me of my roots. To Adam D and 1093 BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK Lonely Planet s guide to Australia was first published in 1977, when the company s cofounder Tony Wheeler covered the entire country on his own. In the 36 years since then we ve sent literally hundreds of authors around Australia to check every dusty nook and cranny of the world s largest island for Lonely Planet guidebooks. This 17th edition of the Australia guide combined the efforts of 11 fabulous Lonely Planet writers. To see who did what, see Our Writers (p1112). We d also like to thank the following people for their contributions to this guide: Dr Michael Cathcart, Dr Tim Flannery and Cathy Craigie. Andrew Tudor wrote the Where to Surf section in the Australia Outdoors chapter. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet s Melbourne office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Maryanne Netto Coordinating Editor Alison Ridgway Senior Cartographers Julie Sheridan, Diana Von Holdt Coordinating Layout Designer Carlos Solarte Managing Editors Barbara Delissen, Martine Power Managing Layout Designer Chris Girdler Assisting Editors Susie Ashworth, Penny Cordner, Andrea Dobbin, Lauren Hunt, Anne Mason, Alan Murphy, Jenna Myers, Kirsten Rawlings, Gabbi Stefanos Assisting Cartographers Enes Bašić, Fatima Bašić, Jeff Cameron, Mick Garrett, Corey Hutchison Internal Image Research Kylie McLaughlin Thanks to Sasha Baskett, Nicholas Colicchia, Brigitte Ellemor, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Jane Hart, Martin Heng, Trent Holden, Errol Hunt, Genesys India, Jouve India, Ali Lemer, James Maffesconi, Katherine Marsh, Virginia Moreno, Catherine Naghten, Karyn Noble, Darren O Connell, Trent Paton, Suzannah Shwer, Rebecca Skinner, Kerrianne Southway, Marg Toohey, Sam Trafford, Tasmin Waby, Gerard Walker, Jeanette Wall