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1 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 275 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate writers, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. WRITER THANKS Anthony Ham A very big thank you to Tasmin Waby for sending me out into some of Australia s most beautiful corners and for her commitment to good writing. Thanks also to Liam, Sticks, Mandy Dwyer and so many others who made my stay in the Northern Territory so memorable. And to my family who always keep the home fires burning os quiero and I can t wait to take you there next time. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Cover photograph: Vineyard, Barossa Valley, Stefano Scata/4Corners Charles Rawlings-Way Huge thanks to Tasmin for the gig, and to all the helpful souls I met on the road in South Australia who flew through my questions with the greatest of ease. Biggest thanks of all to Meg, who held the increasingly chaotic fort while I was busy scooting around in the sunshine ( Where s daddy? ) and made sure that Ione, Remy, Liv and Reuben were fed, watered, schooled, tucked-in and read-to.

2 276 BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK This 7th edition of Lonely Planet s South Australia & Northern Territory guidebook was researched and written by Anthony Ham and Charles Rawlings-Way. The 6th edition, Central Australia: Adelaide to Darwin, was researched and written by Charles, Meg Worby and Lindsay Brown. Lindsay also updated the Outback Environment chapter originally written by Dave Fuller, Kylie Strelan and Dr Irene Watson. The 5th edition was written by the same team, with the added assistance of Paul Harding. This guidebook was produced by the following: Destination Editor Tasmin Waby Product Editors Hannah Cartmel, Shona Gray Senior Cartographer Julie Sheridan Book Designer Virginia Moreno Assisting Editors Michelle Bennett, Melanie Dankel, Sandie Kestell, Rosie Nicholson, Lauren O Connell, Charlotte Orr Assisting Cartographer Hunor Csutoros Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Carolyn Boicos, Jennifer Carey, Daniel Corbett, Liz Heynes, Claire Naylor, Gabrielle Stefanos, Jeroen Wesselink, Janet Whiteway, Tracy Whitmey, Alison Young.

3 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 277 Index A Aboriginal culture 20, 135, 174-5, 226-7, 235-9, 240-6, 248-9, see also galleries & museums art buying 155-6, 191, 206-7, 245 bark painting contemporary Indigenous art 175, 175 cultural centres 137, 163, 172, 199, 223 didgeridoos 245, 175 dot painting 242-3, 175 festivals 170, 177, 178, 175, 191, 194, 203, 219, 26, 174 films 237 history 228, land 235-6, land management 250 land rights 178, 233, 239 media 237 music 238 Papunya Tula permits 176, 270 rock art 135, 166, 185-7, 208, 223, 228, 241-2, 243 Stolen Generations 227, 238 storytelling 236 tours 148, 158, 166-7, 173, 174, 202, 218 treaty 227 TV 237 visual arts 15, 237, 240-6, 15 accommodation 18, 256-7, see also individual locations houseboats 111 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 activities 24-7, see also individual activities Adelaide 49, 52-76, 56-7, 62-3, 11, 19, 26 accommodation 52, 63-6 activities climate 52 drinking & nightlife 70-2 emergency services 74 entertainment 72-3 festivals & events 61-3 food 52, Glenelg 59, 65-6, 69-70, 71-2 highlights 54-5 internet access 74 itineraries 58 medical services 74 North Adelaide 58, 65, 67-8, 71, 68-9 Port Adelaide 59, 65-6, 69-70, 71-2 shopping 10, 73-4 sights 53-9 tourist information 74 tours 61 travel seasons 52 travel to/from 74-5 travel within 75-6 Adelaide Fringe 24, 61 Adelaide Hills 34, 76-81, 77 Adelaide Oval 58 Adelaide Zoo 58 Admirals Arch 97 air travel 265, 268, 276, see also scenic flights alcohol 19 Aldgate 78-9 Alexandra Cave 118 Alice Springs 39, , 200-1, 205, accommodation activities drinking & nightlife 206 entertainment 206 festivals & events 203 food medical services 207 shopping sights tourist information 207 tours 202 travel to/from travel within 208 American River 93-4 Angaston animals 21, 93, Caranbirini Conservation Reserve 196 crocodiles 143, 147, 254 Kakadu National Park 166, 169 kangaroos 92-3, 97, 216, 13 lorikeets 31 penguins 93, 95, 122 Pungalina-Seven Emu Wildlife Sanctuary 197 reptiles 96, 199, 251, 21 turtles 177 whale watching 25, 86, 128 aquariums 143, 146, 162 Araluen Arts Centre 199 area codes 262 Arkaroola Wilderness Sanctuary Arltunga Historical Reserve 208 Arnhem Highway Arnhem Land 173-8, 241-2, 248 permits 176 art galleries, see galleries & museums arts Aboriginal arts 236-8, Aboriginal music 238 Aboriginal visual arts 15, 2406, 337, 15 bark painting contemporary art dot painting 242-3, 175 festivals 22, 24, 61, 148, 164, 178, 203 music 238 Papunya Tula performing arts rock art 135, 166, 185-7, 208, 223, 228, 241-2, 243 ATMs Auburn Australian Rules football 58, 61, 73 Ayers Rock, see Uluru Ayers Rock Resort, see Yulara B babysitting 47 B&Bs 256 Banrock Station 111 bargaining 19 bark painting Barmera Barossa Valley 33, 102-6, 104 basketball 73 Bat Cave 118 Batchelor bathrooms 263 Bathurst Island 157 Battery Hill Mining Centre 195 beaches 20 Barmera 111 Boomer Beach 87 Christies Beach 84 Coorong National Park 116 Darwin 143-4, 147 Glenelg 59 Goolwa 88 Gulf St Vincent 84-5 Kangaroo Island 89, 95 Lameroo Beach 143 Marion Bay 122 Maslin Beach 84 Port Elliot 87

4 278 INDEX B - F beaches continued Port Lincoln 125 Port Willunga 84 Robe 115 safety 261 Seal Bay Conservation Park 96 Snelling Beach 95, 21 Victor Harbor 86 beer 37, 71, see also breweries Berri 113 Berry Springs 162 Beswick (Wugularr) 191 bicycle travel, see cycling Big Rocking Horse 80 birds Birdsville Track 45, 141 birdwatching 251 Alice Springs 202 Caranbirini Conservation Reserve 196 Charles Darwin National Park 149 Djukbinj National Park 160 Ellery Creek Big Hole 210 Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve 160 Kingscote 94 Lorella Springs Wilderness Park 195 Uluru 223 Younghusband Peninsula Birdwood 80 Black Point 122 Blinman 136 Blue Lake 117 boat travel 267, 268 boat trips Adelaide 60 Darwin 148 Goolwa 88 Kakadu 167 Nitmiluk 185 Twin Falls 171 books 192, 226 Borroloola Brachina Gorge Geological Trail 135 breweries 37, see also beer Adelaide 59 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Barossa Valley 104 Goolwa 88 Kangaroo Island 94 Lobethal 80 McLaren Vale 81-2 Murtho 114 Myponga 85 Prancing Pony 81 Robe 115 budget 17 Buley Rockhole 163 Bunyeroo-Brachina-Aroona Scenic Drive 135 bus travel 266, bushfires 261 bushwalking, see walking business hours 17, 260 C Cahill s Crossing 169 camel races 203 camel rides Alice Springs 202 Birdsville & Strzelecki Tracks 141 Oodnadatta Track 141 Uluru 218 camping 256 canoeing & kayaking 181 Adelaide 61 Berri 113 Goolwa 88 Mannum 110 Nitmiluk National Park 185 Paringa 114 Cape Jervis 85 car travel 266, hazards 273 insurance 271 Northern Territory 266 road rules 274 outback 44 South Australia 266 caravan parks 256 Carpentaria Highway 193 Carrickalinga 85 caves Cutta Cutta Caves Nature Park 190 Kelly Hill Conservation Park 97 Mount Gambier 118 Naracoorte Caves National Park 118 Ceduna 128 cell phones 262 Chamberlain, Lindy 231, 233 cheese 35-6, 34 children, travel with 47-8 Adelaide 60 churches Clare Clare Valley 33, Cleland Conservation Park 79 climate 16, 24, 25, 26, 27, 38-9 climate change 265 Cobourg Peninsula Coffin Bay 127 Coffin Bay National Park 127 colonisation , 239 conservation parks, see nature reserves & parks contemporary art Coober Pedy , 139 Cooinda 172 Coonawarra 34, 115, 119 Coopers Brewery 59 Coorong National Park Copley Corroboree Rock Conservation Reserve 209 costs 19 Crafers 79 credit cards 260 cricket 58, 65, 73 crime 261 crocodiles 143, 147, 254 cruises, see boat trips currency 260 Currency Creek 34 customs regulations 257 Cutta Cutta Caves Nature Park 190 cycling 268 Adelaide Alice Springs 202 Flinders Ranges McLaren Vale 82 Melrose 133 outback, the 40 Riesling Trail 109 Victor Harbor 86 Cyclone Tracy 230, 234 D Daly River Daly Waters dance dangers, see safety Darwin 50, , 146-7, 150-1, accommodation activities drinking & nightlife 155 entertainment 155 festivals & events food medical services 156 shopping sights 143 tourist information 156 tours 148 travel to/from travel within 157 Death Rock 134 debit cards 260 deserts 247 Devils Marbles disabilities, travellers with 263 diving Adelaide 61 Kangaroo Island 89 dot painting 242-3, 175 drinks, see beer, wine driving, see car travel Dudley Peninsula 92-3 E East MacDonnell Ranges Eastern Arnhem Land 178 Edith Falls 184 Edithburgh 122 electricity 258 Ellery Creek Big Hole 210 Elsey National Park 190 emergencies 17 Emily Gap 209, 212 Emu Bay 95 encephalitis 255 environmental issues 227, 233 Ernest Giles Road 215 etiquette 19 events 24-7 Ewaninga 214 exchange rates 17 Eyre Peninsula 124-8, 126 F farmstays fauna, see animals federation feral animals festivals 24-7 Aboriginal 170, 177, 178, 175, 191, 194, 219, 174

5 279 Adelaide 61-3 Adelaide Fringe 24, 61 arts 22, 24, 61, 148, 164, 178, 203 Beer Can Regatta 149 Christmas Pageant 63 Cornish 121 Darwin Festival 148 food 82, 102, 106, 113, 128 music 83, 111, 181, 203 tuna 125 wine 76-7, 106, 113 films 226, 237 Finke Gorge National Park 213 Finke Track 46 fishing 27 Arnhem Land 173 Borroloola Cobourg Peninsula 177 Daly River Eyre Peninsula 124 Kangaroo Island 89 Port Lincoln 125 Fleurieu Peninsula 81-9, 82 flights, see scenic flights Flinders Chase National Park 97-8 Flinders Ranges 132-7, 132 Flinders Ranges National Park Florence Falls 163 Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve 160 food 19, 33, 35-7, 258, see also individual locations cheese 35-6, 34 festivals 82, 102, 106, 113, 128 fruit 37 honey 36 nuts 37 seafood 36, 36 football 58, 61, 73, see also soccer Four Corners 226, 234 fruit picking 264 G galleries & museums Araluen Arts Centre 199 Art Gallery of South Australia 53 Bay Discovery Centre 59 Buku Larrnggay Mulka Art Centre & Museum 178 Djilpin Arts 181 Encounter Coast Discovery Centre & Museum 86 Ghunmarn Culture Centre 191 Hahndorf Academy 78 Injalak Arts & Crafts Centre 176 Jila Arts 207 Mannum Dock Museum of River History 110 Mary MacKillop Interpretive Centre 119 Mason Gallery 143 Mbantua Fine Art Gallery 155, 175 Mbantua Gallery 206 Merrepen Arts 164 Mimi Aboriginal Art & Craft 184 Moonta Mines Museum 122 Murray Bridge Regional Gallery 109 Museum & Art Gallery of the Northern Territory 147 Mutonia Sculpture Park 141 Nambara Arts & Crafts Aboriginal Gallery 178 National Motor Museum 80 Ngukurr Arts Centre 192 Ngurratjuta Iltja Ntjarra 207 Nomad Art Gallery 155 Old Timers Mine 138 Outstation Gallery 155 Papunya Tula Artists 206 Riddoch Art Gallery 118 Rocky s Hall of Fame Pioneers Museum 111 South Australian Maritime Museum 59 South Australian Museum 53 South Australian Whale Centre 86 Steamtown Heritage Rail Centre 133 Talapi 206 Tjanpi Desert Weavers 206 Top Didj Cultural Experience & Art Gallery 181 Umoona Opal Mine & Museum 138 Wallaroo Heritage & Nautical Museum 121 Waralungku Arts Centre 193 Warlukurlangu Art Centre 193 Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre 172 gardens, see parks & gardens Garma Festival 27, 178, 26 geography 166 Ghan, the 13, 266-7, 274, 13 Ghunmarn Culture Centre 191 giardiasis 255 Glenelg 59 gold rush 230 Goolwa 88-9 Great Australian Bight Commonwealth Marine Reserve 128 Gregory s Tree 186 Gulf St Vincent 84-5 Gumeracha 80 Gunbalanya (Oenpelli) Gunlom 173 H Hahndorf 77-8 Hawker Head of Bight 128 health 254-5, 258 helicopter flights, see scenic flights Henbury Meteorite Craters 215 Henley-on-Todd Regatta 27 Heritage Blinman Mine 136 Hermannsburg (Ntaria) 213 Heysen Trail 85 hiking, see walking history th century st century 234 Aboriginal history 228, Aboriginal land rights 178, 233, 239 colonisation , 239 federation gold rush 230 immigration wheat boom 231 WWI 232 WWII 230, 232 hitching 274 holidays honey 36 horse riding 97 hostels 17, 257 hot springs 141 Bitter Springs Coward Springs 141 Mataranka hotels 17, 257 houseboats 111 I Iga Warta 137 Ikara 14, 135, 15 indigenous culture, see Aboriginal culture Ingalalla Falls 85 Innes National Park 122, 124 Inneston 122 insects 255 insurance 259 internet access 259 internet resources 17 accommodation 257 disabilities, travellers with 263 outback, the 41 Intervention, the 227 itineraries 28-32, 28, 29, 30, 32 J Jabiru Jawoyn Valley 185 jellyfish 254 Jessie Gap 209 Jim Jim Falls Judbarra/Gregory National Park 187 joy flights, see scenic flights K Kakadu National Park 8, , 242, 248, 168, 8 Kangaroo Island 12, 34, 89-98, 229, 90, 13, 21, 31 kangaroos 92-3, 97, 216 INDEX F-K

6 280 INDEX K- O Kanyaka 134 Kata Tjuta 217, 224, 189, 224, 188 Katherine 181-4, 182 Katherine Gorge, see Nitmiluk National Park kayaking, see canoeing & kayaking Keep River National Park 187 Kelly Hill Conservation Park 97 Kidman Trail 83 Kings Canyon, see Watarrka National Park Kingscote 94-5 Kingston-On-Murray 111 L Lake Albert 117 Lake Bonney 111 Lake Eyre 141 land permits, see permits land rights 178, 233, 239 Langhorne Creek 34 language 16 Larapinta Trail 204 Larrimah 187 Lasseter Highway 46, Laura 133 lawn bowls 60 legal matters 259 Leigh Creek Leliyn (Edith Falls) 184 LGBTI travellers 259 Limestone Coast Limmen National Park 192 Lincoln National Park 125 Litchfield National Park 14, 163-4, 14 Little Sahara 96 lizards 96, 199, 251, 21 Lobethal 80 lorikeets 31 Loxton M Mabo High Court decision 233 MacDonnell Ranges , 189 Maguk 172 Mannum 110 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 maps 259 Marion Bay 122 markets 23 Adelaide 10, 53, 73, 74, 11, 34 Barossa Farmers Market 106 Berri 113 Darwin 154, 15 Kangaroo Island 92 Stirling 80 Willunga Farmers Market 83 Marree 141 Mary River Mataranka Mawson Trail 268 mazes 107 Mbantua Fine Art Gallery 155, 175 McLaren Vale 33-4, 81-3 measures 260 media 237 medical services 258 Melrose 133 Melville Island 157 Meningie meningococcal disease 255 Mereenie Loop Road 41, 45 microbreweries 37 Mindil Beach Sunset Market 154, 15 mining 122, 138, 178, 193, 195, 208, 226-7, 231-4, 235 Mintaro 107 mobile phones 262 Monarto Zoo 109 money ATMs bargaining 19 costs 17 credit cards 260 discount cards 257 tipping 19 Moomba-Strzelecki Track 141 Moonta 122 motels 17, 257 motorcycle travel, see car travel Mount Gambier mountain biking Adelaide 60, 61 Alice Springs 202 Flinders Ranges Melrose 133 Mt Barker 81 Mt Lofty 79 Mt Remarkable National Park 133 Murphy s Haystacks 127 Murray Bridge 109 Murray River Murray Valley encephalitis 255 museums, see galleries & museums music 238 festivals 83, 111, 181, 203 Mutonia Sculpture Park 141 Myponga 85 N Namatjira, Albert 241 galleries 199, 206 Hermannsburg 213 Namatjira Drive Naracoorte Caves National Park 118 Nathan River Road 45 national parks 38-41, see also nature parks & reserves Coffin Bay 127 Coorong Elsey 190 Finke Gorge 213 Flinders Chase 97-8 Flinders Ranges Innes 122, 124 Judbarra/Gregory 187 Kakadu 8, , 242, 248, 168, 8 Keep River 187 Limmen 192 Lincoln 125 Litchfield 14, 163-4, 14 Mt Remarkable 133 Naracoorte Caves 118 Nitmiluk 10, 181, 11 Uluru-Kata Tjuta 8, 189, , 9, 189 Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges 137 Watarrka 12, 189, , 12, 189 West MacDonnell nature parks & reserves, see also national parks Arltunga Historical Reserve 208 Berry Springs Nature Park 162 Cleland Conservation Park 79 Corroboree Rock Conservation Reserve 209 Cutta Cutta Caves Nature Park 109 Deep Creek Conservation Park 85 Emily Gap 209, 212 Fogg Dam Conservation Reserve 160 Great Australian Bight Commonwealth Marine Reserve 128 Jessie Gap 209 Kelly Hill Conservation Park 97 Little Sahara 96 N Dhala Gorge Nature Park 208 Rainbow Valley Conservation Reserve 215 Ruby Gap Nature Park 208 Seal Bay Conservation Park 96 Strzelecki Regional Reserve 141 Trephina Gorge Nature Park 208 Troubridge Island Conservation Park 122 Umbrawarra Gorge Nature Park 165 N Dhala Gorge Nature Park 208 newspapers 237 Nitmiluk National Park 10, 181, 184, 11 Normanville 85 Nourlangie 171 Nuriootpa 105 nuts 37 Nyinkka Nyunyu 195 O Ochre Pits 211 Oenpelli Old Andado Track 46, 5 Old South Road 214 Olgas, see Kata Tjuta Oodnadatta 140 Oodnadatta Track 13, 45, 140-1, 13, 40 opals 138 opening hours 17, 260 organised tours, see tours Ormiston Gorge 211 Ormiston Pound 212

7 281 outback, the 38-46, 188-9, , 42-3, 45, climate 38-9 cycling 40 driving 44 facilities 40 highways 46 internet resources 41 Northern Territory 50, permits 46 road trains 41 safety 44 South Australia 50, tours 41 tracks 41, 45-6 transport 39 travel seasons 38-9 P Padthaway 34 Papunya Tula Papunya Tula Artists (gallery) 206 Parachilna 136 Paringa parks & gardens Adelaide 53, 56 Alice Springs 199 Darwin 143 Mt Lofty 79 Port Augusta 124 passports 265 Penfolds Magill Estate Winery 59 penguins 93, 95, 122 Penneshaw 92-3 Penola 119 permits 176, 270 Peterborough 133 Pimba 138 Pine Creek Planehenge 141 planning budgeting 17 calendar of events 24-7 children, travel with 47-8 first-time visitors internet resources 17 itineraries 28-32, 28, 29, 30, 32 outback travel South Australia & Northern Territory basics South Australia & Northern Territory regions travel seasons 16, 24, 25, 26, 27 plants 252 Plenty Highway 46 Pondalowie Bay 122 population 227 Port Augusta Port Elliot 87-8 Port Lincoln Port Pirie 133 Port Vincent 122 postal services 260 public holidays pubs 23 Q quarantine regulations 269 Quorn 134 R radio 237 Rainbow Valley Conservation Reserve 215 Rapid Bay 85 Ravine des Casoars 98 Red Centre Way 43, 214 Remarkable Rocks 98 Renmark Riesling Trail 109 Riverland 34 road rules 274 road trains 41 roadhouses 18, 19, 40, 256 Robe rock art 174-5, Arnhem Land 173 Flinders Ranges National Park 135 Kakadu National Park 166 Nourlangie 171 Ubirr Rocky River 97 Roper Highway Ross River fever 255 royal commission 226 Royal Flying Doctor Service 143 Ruby Gap Nature Park 208 S Sacred Canyon Cultural Heritage Site 135 safety 261 Sandover Highway 46 Savannah Way 186, 193 scenic flights Kakadu National Park 167 Lake Eyre 141 Limmen National Park 193 Nitmiluk National Park 181, 185 Watarrka National Park 216 Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park 218 School of the Air 181 seafood 36, 36 Seal Bay Conservation Park 96 Second Valley 85 senior travellers Serpentine Gorge 210 sharks 254 Simpson Desert 46 Simpsons Gap 209 smoking 19 snakes 251, 254 Snelling Beach 21 soccer 73 Spaceship 138 spiders 254 St Francis 128 St Peter 128 Standley Chasm 212 Stansbury 122 STDs 255 Stenhouse Bay 122 stingrays 254 Stirling 78-9 Stolen Generations 227, 238 Streaky Bay Strzelecki Regional Reserve 141 Strzelecki Track 45, 141 Stuart Highway 39, 46 Stuart, John McDouall 231 sunburn 255 surfing Kangaroo Island 89 Port Elliot 87 Robe Swan Reach 110 swimming Adelaide 61 T Tablelands Highway 193 Tanami Track 46, 198 Tanunda taxes 260 telephone services Tennant Creek Territory Wildlife Park 162 theatre thermal pools, see hot springs Thevenard 128 Thorny Devil lizards 21 Timber Creek time 262 tipping 19 Tiwi Islands Tjungu Festival 25 toilets 263 Top End 50, tourist information 263 tours 41, 174, 263, see also individual locations Aboriginal culture 148, 158, 166-7, 173, 174, 202, 218 outback 41 train travel Ghan, the 13, 266-7, 274, 13 travel to/from South Australia & Northern Territory travel within South Australia & Northern Territory Trephina Gorge Nature Park 208 trekking, see walking Troubridge Island Conservation Park 122 TV 237 Twin Falls U Ubirr , 8 Uluru 39, 189, 217, 222-4, 223, Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park 8, 189, , 9, 189 Umbrawarra Gorge Nature Park 165 V vaccinations 258 Valley of the Winds 224 Victor Harbor 86-7 Victoria Highway 40, 46 Victoria River Crossing 186 viral encephalitis 255 visas 259, 263-4, 265 INDEX O -V

8 282 INDEX V- Z volunteering 249, 264 Vulkathunha-Gammon Ranges National Park 137 W Waikerie walking 23 Adelaide Brachina Gorge Geological Trail 135 Cape Jervis 85 Flinders Chase National Park 97-8 Flinders Ranges 133 Flinders Ranges National Park 135 Kakadu National Park 169 Kangaroo Island 89, 97-8 McLaren Vale 82 Nitmiluk National Park 185 Nourlangie 171 Renmark 114 Riesling Trail 109 Valley of the Winds 224 Wallaroo Watarrka National Park 12, 189, , 217, 12, 189 water 255 waterfalls Gunlom 173 Hindmarsh 85 Ingalalla 85 Jim Jim Falls Kakadu 166 Litchfield 14, 163-4, 14 Maguk Mannum 110 Twin Falls We of the Never Never 192 weather 16, 24, 25, 26, 27, 38-9 Adelaide 52 Alice Springs 179 Ceduna 120 Darwin 142 Tanunda 99 Quorn 129 weights 260 West MacDonnell Ranges whale watching 25, 86, 128 wheat boom 231 Whitlam, Gough 227 wildlife 21, 93, Caranbirini Conservation Reserve 196 crocodiles 143, 147, 254 Kakadu National Park 166, 169 kangaroos 92-3, 97, 216, 13 lorikeets 31 penguins 93, 95, 122 Pungalina-Seven Emu Wildlife Sanctuary 197 reptiles 96, 199, 251, 21 turtles 177 whale watching 25, 86, 128 wildlife centres, see zoos & wildlife centres William Creek 140, 23 Willunga 83-4 Wilpena Pound 14, 135, 15 wine 33-5 festivals 76-7, 106, 113 Riesling Trail 109 wine regions 10, 20 accommodation 34-5 Adelaide Hills 34 Barossa Valley 33, Clare Valley 33, Coonawarra 34, 115, 119 Currency Creek 34 Kangaroo Island 34 Langhorne Creek 34 McLaren Vale 33-4, 81-2, 84, 10 Padthaway 34 Riverland 34 travel seasons 35 wineries 33 Alpha Box & Dice 84 Balnaves of Coonawarra 115 Banrock Station 111 Coriole 84 d Arenberg 84 Deviation Road 79 Henschke 103 Knappstein 108 Lane, the 78 Majella Wines 115 National Wine Centre of Australia 56-8 Penfolds 103 Penfolds Magill Estate Winery 59 Peter Lehmann Wines 103 Pike & Joyce 80 Pikes 108 Rockford Wines 103 Rymill Coonawarra 115 SC Pannell 84 Sevenhill Cellars 108 Shut The Gate 108 Skillogalee 108 St Hallett 103 Wirra Wirra 84 Wynns Coonawarra Estate 115, 35 Zema Estate 115 WOMADelaide 24, 61, 26 women travellers 264 Woomera 138 work 264 WWI 232 WWII 232, 234 Y Yankalilla 85 Yellow Water 172 Yorke Peninsula Younghusband Peninsula Yulara , 221 Z zoos & wildlife centres Adelaide 58 Adelaide Hills 79 Copley Kangaroo Island 96 Murray Bridge 109 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

9 283 NOTES

10 284 NOTES

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12 286 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Sento Hot Baths Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving/Snorkelling Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station Subway station Taxi Train station/railway Tram Underground station Other Transport Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

13 CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Cathy Craigie is a Gamilaori and Anaiwon woman from northern New South Wales. She is a freelance writer and cultural consultant and has extensive experience in Aboriginal Affairs. Cathy contributed to the Aboriginal Australia chapter. Brenda L Croft was born in Perth and now lives on the south coast of New South Wales. She is a Senior Research Fellow at the University of NSW. Brenda is from the Gurindji, Malngin and Mudpurra peoples in the NT on her paternal side, and has Anglo-Australian, German and Irish heritage on her maternal side. She has been involved in the arts and cultural sectors for three decades as an artist, arts administrator, curator, writer, academic and consultant. Brenda contributed to the Indigenous Visual Arts chapter. David Fuller & Kylie Strelan wrote the Outback Environment chapter. David has worked for more than 20 years as a parks and wildlife ranger, and Kylie is an editor with an environmental consultancy. They lived for more than 15 years in national parks throughout the Northern Territory, including Garig Gunak Barlu, the West MacDonnells and Nitmiluk. With a passion for road trips (and family to visit in Adelaide), David and Kylie have driven the length of the Stuart Hwy more times than they care to recall. Professor Irene Watson wrote the section headed The Land & Indigenous Peoples in the Outback Environment chapter, first published in Lonely Planet s Aboriginal Australia & the Torres Strait Islands: Guide to Indigenous Australia. Professor Watson is now working with the University of South Australia. Professor Watson writes: I am a Tanganekald and Meintangk woman; my ancestors are the sovereign peoples of the Coorong and the southeast region of South Australia.

14 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Anthony Ham Northern Territory Anthony is a freelance writer and photographer who specialises in Spain, East and Southern Africa, the Arctic, the Middle East and Australia. When he s not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs Spain, Africa and the Middle East for newspapers and magazines in Australia, the UK and US. Anthony also contributed to the Indigenous Art & Culture and Ultimate Outback themed spreads. Charles Rawlings-Way South Australia Charles is a veteran travel writer who has penned 30-something titles for Lonely Planet including guides to Singapore, Toronto, Sydney, Tasmania, New Zealand, the South Pacific and Australia and numerous articles. After dabbling in the dark arts of architecture, cartography, project management and busking for some years, Charles hit the road for Lonely Planet in 2005 and hasn t stopped travelling since. Charles also contributed to the Plan, Understand and Survival sections. OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN th edition November 2017 ISBN Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs as indicated Printed in China Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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