Eskdale Granite Bouldering Copyright Philip Wake
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1 Eskdale Granite Bouldering Copyright Philip Wake Directions (from the south) From the M6 motorway leave at junction 36 for Kendal/Lakes. Follow signs for Barrow. Before you reach Barrow, turn right to Workington (A5092) three miles beyond Newby Bridge. Follow this road for about 10 miles. Beyond Broughton in Furness you need to turn right at the traffic lights towards Ulpha. After 4 miles turn left in Ulpha village to the steep hill signed Eskdale. Follow the fell road to Eskdale Drive past the George IV pub, up and over a small hill and past a white house. Park at The Green station on the miniature 'ratty' railway on your LHS. Walk back to the white house and opposite is a public footpath. Follow the footpath which goes through a couple of stiles and curves to the right. There you will find The Diamond on your LHS (less than 5 mins walk). The Diamond
2 1. 5b V1 **! Pull over the lip of the diamond and straight up the face. Many variations up top wall. 2. 5a V0 Crack, very traditional!! 3. 6a V3 **! BS Straight up the face of the pillar using right arete above the big niche hold. 4. 5a V1 **! Traverse R across the pillar on to the main face of the diamond and straight up or carry on across the crease line. See Back Cover picture. 5. 6b V6 ** BS. Climb the arete to the top using the crack on the left near the top. 6. 5c V3 BS. Climb the face directly. There are many eliminates on this face, all worthwhile. 7. 5a V0 * BS. Climb the arete (only on the pillar) 8. 5c V2 BS. Arete for hands feet on the pillar for just first 3 feet. 5b V1 Climb the arete (without the use of the pillar) The BS without the pillar is still a project 9. Project BS. The rising traverse L along the crease c V10 Rob's Wall *** Straight up the centre of the face using technical and powerful moves. An absolute Classic. The standing start goes at V7/ b V1 ** Climb the crack, (Jams only is 5c) (see main pic on index page) Circuits: 1. 5c V3 Climb problem 8 traverse across the top and then down problem 10 on any holds The Cave
3 1. 6b V4 BS. Pull straight up and over on to the face. 2. 6a V3 From good holds on the face reach up and right to the arete. Power up to finish. (Watch your back!) 3. ungradeable From the depths of the tunnel climb into the horizontal cleft. Then using any means squirm your way to daylight finishing above 2. (Full body cover required) 4. 5b V1 Hands on the Left lip, pull up and left on to the slab. 5. 6c V7 Strong Arete *** BS. From the end of a small horizontal crack and large flat hold climb straight up until the arete on the R is reached. Finish either straight up or traverse down into 2 and finish up this. Stunning! V3 6a for standing start. 6. 6a V4 *** BS Start at the bottom of the crack then move up and across on to the face and directly to the top. 7. 5a V0 * Directly up only the crack. (BS: same grade) 8. 5b V1 ** BS. From the lowest point of the boulder climb directly up to jugs then traverse L to the end of the boulder. Swing up and over to finish. For and easier but equally satisfying version start at the bottom of the crack and traverse in. The Gem
4 1. 6b V4 BS. Pull straight up and over on to the face. 2. 6a V3 From good holds on the face reach up and right to the arete. Power up to finish. (Watch your back!) 3. ungradeable From the depths of the tunnel climb into the horizontal cleft. Then using any means squirm your way to daylight finishing above 2. (Full body cover required) 4. 5b V1 Hands on the Left lip, pull up and left on to the slab. 5. 6c V7 Strong Arete *** BS. From the end of a small horizontal crack and large flat hold climb straight up until the arete on the R is reached. Finish either straight up or traverse down into 2 and finish up this. Stunning! V3 6a for standing start. 6. 6a V4 *** BS Start at the bottom of the crack then move up and across on to the face and directly to the top. 7. 5a V0 * Directly up only the crack. (BS: same grade) 8. 5b V1 ** BS. From the lowest point of the boulder climb directly up to jugs then traverse L to the end of the boulder. Swing up and over to finish. For and easier but equally satisfying version start at the bottom of the crack and traverse in. White Slab
5 White Slab Boulder 1. 4c Climb the R arete. 2. 4c * Climb the centre of the wall. 3. 4b Climb the crease line leftwards. 4. 5b V1 Climb the arete on its right hand side. 5. 6a V5 BS Start below the arete climb up and traverse left using the top of the boulder to top out at problem b V1 BS Climb directly up the centre of the face. 7. 5a V0 BS Climb the arete. Lipster Boulder 1. 6a V4 Lipster ** BS Traverse the Lip round the arete and along the wall. Wall Boulders
6 The Wall Boulder 1. 4c Up the slab. 2. 5a V0 Traverse left across the face. 3. 6a V4 Rob's Crack* BS. From the crack to the top. 4. 5a V0 Reverse problem 2. Marcus's Boulder c V3 * Traverse the whole boulder leftwards heal hooking at the beginning. Marcus's Boulder b V6 The Ring of Fire *** BS. Traverse the fist face not using the top. Pull round the corner using the top. Continue using the top until the next corner upon rounding this corner stop using the top. Once you reach the final corner finish hands off up the next face to the top. Pumpy! 2. 5c V3 BS in the middle of the wall. Pull up to break. Reach the top the mantle over. Cleft Boulders Cleft Boulders 1. 5c V2 ** BS. Traverse the whole block rightwards. Without the top on the back face. 2. 5b V1 BS. Straight up the centre of the face. 3. 5c V2 BS. Problem 1 in reverse. 4. 5a V0 Traverse the face to the right.
7 Foxes Den Foxes Den 1. 5b V1 * BS. Follow the diagonal crack to the top of the boulder then pull over 2. 5b V1 BS. Follow the diagonal crack about half way then pull out over the roof to finish. 3. 5b V2 BS From the starting holds of the diagonal crack pull straight up out over the roof 4. 5c V3 * BS. Traverse left around the lip of both boulders to finish as 1. Fisherground Needle Area
8 Boulders 1 and c Fruitbats' Delight ** BS Traverse the block from right to left. 2. 5b V2 BS from centre of the block. Watch for the block next to you. 3. 5b V2 Traverse rightwards from next to heather. 4. Project BS From under the boulder pull out and over using the crack. Fisherground Needle 1. 4c Climb the arete 2. 4c Climb the arete and scoop to the top. 3. 5b V1 Needle Arete ** Climb the arete. 4. 5b V2 Climb the arete on its left side without the use of the lefthand arete Y-fronts Boulder 1. Project BS Climb the rounded arete. 2. 5c V3 Lefthand Y * BS Climb the crack trending L.
9 3. Project Y Direct BS Climb until you have one hand in each of the L and R trending cracks then dyno for the top. 4. Project Righthand Y BS Climb the initial crack the take the right trending crack. 5. Project Climb the blank wall!! 6. 5a V1 Y Traverse Traverse the top of the boulder. The Wilderness 1. 5c V2 * Start directly below a large niche at the top of the boulder and climb directly to it. 2. 6a V3 Dilema **! Climb directly up the centre of the face to the top. Worrying! Good finishing holds. 3. 6a V3 The Beauty of the Link Start as for problem 2 traverse up and left to finish up problem a V5!! Follow the groove to the top. Nasty landing! Harder for the short. Very Worrying. 5. 5c V2 Fisherground Groove ***! Boulder problem start off the block and follow the groove to the top. Excellent, but often wet. 6. 6a V5 Anniebaditdonc *** BS with both hands on a big under cut hold to the right hand end of the overlap and finish up Fisherground Groove 7. Project * Directly up the overhanging wall. 8. Project Climb the arete on the left hand side. The Animal
10 The Animal area is found directly behind Fisherground Farm about 200m up the fell path just in front of Stretcher Crag. 1. Project BS. Directly up and over the bulge. 2. 6b V5 The Lion *** BS. Directly up the arete to the top, then out left for a hold on the face and finish out left. 3. 6b V5 The Iron Cross * BS. Directly up the face starting on an edge. Avoid using arete and the crack at the top. Try the extended version by starting on a hold on the bottom lip just to the L of the start of the lion at 6b+ V b V1 The Snake * BS. Climb the arete, only using holds on the arete. 5. 4a Climb the green groove to the top. 6. 4b Traverse the face not using the top until the arete of The Snake is reached. 7. 5a Billy Badger ** Straight up the slab from the bottom, if you fancy a challenge try it no handed. 8. 5c V2 ** BS. Climb the right hand sloping ramp then the arete; using the arete and foot ledges only. 9. Project Follow problem 8 to reach the arete. Traverse into 10 then swing across to finish up Project BS. From some unhelpful holds power up for another unhelpful hold. If successful swing up and over to the top a V4 BS. Climb to a good hold on the left arete 12. Project BS. Use the sloping lip to power up and over on to the slab and the top c V2 BS. Use two small crimps one in the scoop and one on the lip of the slab to power up for a hold on the arete and pull over.
11 14. 6a V4 Rock Around The Block Lie down start hands on bottom right hold, left foot on left foot hold. Pull up to top, traverse round arete then traverse the wall not using the top, until near the arete. Swing low arround the arete and finish strenuously to the end. Boulder a V4 The Crocodile ** BS Climb the sloping arete on its right hand side then pull over the top Boulder a V0 BS. Start at the bottom of the RH arete. Pull over and traverse to the L until the end of the boulder and pull over the top 2.. V2 Up the small face, feet only Afro Boulder 1. 5a V0 Climb the arete on its right hand side. 2. 5c V2 Nobody does it better ** Climb the fin on the L side. Excellent. 3. 5c V2 Climb the face just to the L of P2 4. Project Off the small slopper and overlap climb the centre of the wall 5. Project Climb the face just L of P4 off a small sidepull. 6. 5b V1 Climb the crack 7. Project BS. Climb the arete. 8. Project Traverse the big face. 9. Project Climb the arete.
12 Lightening Crack Area Lightening Crack 1. Project BS. Traverse the wall to the arete 2. Project BS. Climb out of the small hole on jams and up the crack 3. 5b V1 BS. Climb the crack from the L side of the hole. 4. 5a V1 Climb the arete on its RHS. 5. 5b V2 Phil's Arete ** Climb the arete on its LHS. 6. Project Eliminate climbing between the arete and the crack. 7. 4c Lightening Crack ** Climb the Crack. 8. 5a Climb the face just left of the crack to the bottom of the fork in Lightening crack. 9. Project Climb the arete on its RHS. 10. Project Trying to avoid the tree, climb the arete on the LHS. Oak Boulder Oak Boulder is situated underneath the oak tree 20m behind Lightening Crack. 1. 5a V1 Climb the right facing corner. 2. Project Climb straight over the overhang.
13 Style Face 1. 5b V1 Climb the arete closest to the wall 2. 5c V2 * Climb the centre of the wall 3. 5b V2 Climb the arete without the R wall 4. 4b * Climb the RH arete with the crack. 5. 5c V4 Climb the wall 6. 5a V1 Climb the wall
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