The Flu sits on a west facing hillside and doesn t get as much sun as the other areas. The stone tends to hold moisture much longer and becomes
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- Baldwin Blankenship
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Transcription
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2 The Flu sits on a west facing hillside and doesn t get as much sun as the other areas. The stone tends to hold moisture much longer and becomes brittle when wet. So please refrain form climbing in the early spring and after storms. Do your part and help keep free from trash, tick marks and fecal matter. Never camp or build fires under the boulders! The future of climbing in Joe s valley all depends on the impact we make to the environment. Make it a positive impact by doing everything possible to leave no trace! Always be courteous and show respect to the locals and farmers! Thank You!
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4 I T
5 2 Start low on rail. Continue up the face on good pockets. Right hand side-pull, left hand to the lip and mantel. Sit start on low jug. Big moves to good holds. Slopey top out.
6 u Start on small edges and use the arête to climb the slab. Sit start on good edge, cross left hand to the pinch and right hand to the lip. 2
7 Stand start on good holds. Climb up the center of the boulder using horizontal slashes. Gaston the vertical slash to sloping crimps at the lip.
8 Sit start low. Traverse the lip going right and mantel. Sit start on jug, big move to the lip and mantel. 2 3 Sit start on jug, big move for to the lip and mantel. Follow good holds to the lip. Mantel to a slab finish. Sit start and follow the good edges to the lip, bump left hand out left to a good sloper, right hand to slight arête and mantel to a slab finish. Sit start and climb out right to a slab finish. Start matched on low jug and climb to the top. This boulder sits on top of CA Death Bomb. Cody Allen Climbing CA Death Bomb 3
9 Sit start on rail, make a big move or campus to the lip and mantel. Sit start on jug, climb straight up bulge on good edges
10 2 3 Sit start with left hand pinch and right hand gaston. Follow the pinches and side-pulls. Links into Raw Hide. Sit start on jugs. Right hand to pocket left hand to side-pull. Big right hand move to good edge. Easy mantel. V7 variation: Start left hand on lower under-cling and right hand pocket. Sit start left hand jug and right hand under-cling. Bump from mono to the lip with left hand. Flip left hand into crack, right to crimp and left hand to pocket.
11 Sit start on crimps. Bump right hand up to the sloper rail and match. Bump right hand twice to a sloping pinch. Left hand to the gaston, right hand to a pinch at the lip. 3 Sit start on crimps. Bump right hand up the sloper rail and match. Follow the jugs out right finish on the slab using good edges. 2 Stand start on good left hand. Bump right hand out to side-pull jug and continue up good holds to a big rail at the lip, avoiding huecos. Exit left. Start on flake and climb to the big sloper rail. Left hand side pull to big jugs at the lip. 4
12 4 2 3 Start with right hand and right heel in hueco, left hand starts in finger bucket. Move right hand to the side pull and make a big left hand move to the jug. Easy mantel. Start matched on the lowest pocket. Bump up the pockets to a left hand gaston on the slanted crimp rail. Match and continue up the jugs to an easy mantel. Start on #2, move left hand to big pocket, right hand to a smallpocket and left hand to a side-pull under-cling. Big right hand move to a pocket left hand to a crimp. Slap arête with right hand and finish on the giant jug. Stand start on good holds and climb straight up on good dishes and slashes.
13 Sit start matched on rail with right heel-hook. Climb the crimps to a good right hand side-pull. Move left hand to the lip and match. Big jug out left. Stand start on good holds. Climb the amazing swoop to the big jugs at the lip. Heel-hook the horn for an easy mantel. Sit start with left hand on the side-pull and right hand gaston. Move right hand to small crimp and make a big left hand throw to a sidepull crimp. Cross right hand over the left to a good edge and dyno to the sloper. Links to Candy Paint. Sit start on jug. Cross right hand to sloping ledge and move left hand to side-pull. Heel hook sloping ledge and grab small crimp with the left hand. Bump right hand to good crimp and dyno for the rail. Left hand to the triangular crimp and mantel.
14 Sit start on jug. Follow good holds and pockets to the lip. Start on jug. Cross right hand to good hold, bump left hand twice to the block pinch. Move right hand to the jug, easy mantel. Sit start for style points. Start matched on low side-pull jug. Flow through the sequence of jugs like you're Shab Shabba Ranks! Founder and developer Cody Allen climbing Candy Paint Developer Ryan Shilton crimping down on Glock 9 Handy.
15 2 3 4 J Start on the rail, bump left hand to under-cling and fallow the good edges through the cave. Continue up the slab to safety. Start on the rail and climb straight up using sloping edges. Start on opposing side-pulls to the left and right of the stone orifice. Right hand to crimp cross to a left hand crimp. Snag the jug with the right hand. Follow the jugs up the slab. Start on the big jug rail, Right hand moves to gill. Heel-hook with the left leg climb and bump up the slopers along the arête with the left.
16 2 3 Start left hand on a weird pinch and right hand on the side pull. Slap right hand to the sloping rail match with left hand bump out right to the good holds. Sit start on low crimps. Big right hand move to sloping crimp. Bump the left hand up crimps to the pocket and move right hand to the lip. Flow up the cracks to the top.
17 3 4 2 Sit start in the pod, move out to the lip and mantle Start low matched on the sloper rail. Move right hand to a side-pull and left leg knee bar on the round knob. Cross through with right hand to a good side-pull, then cross left over right to triangular pinch. Mantel inside notch or exit left Sit start at #4, climb out on the bulge and make a big left hand move to a side-pull crimp. Right hand moves to a two finger pocket then bump left hand out the the rail and dyno for the lip. Sit start and climb out on the bulge. Big left hand move to a good pinch. Match the lip and traverse left for a stylin finish.
18 2 3 Sit start matched on a jug. Climb straight up the face using good holds. Sit start on jug, move up and right through perfect edges. Links to #3. Sit start both hands on crimp rail. Cross the right hand to sloper and move left hand to the under-cling and bump right hand to a good rail and match.
19 2 Stand start with left hand on a side-pull and right hand in low bucket. Dyno to the lip. Sit start matched in the low pocket. Move left hand to side-pull and cross over with the right hand to a good pinch with a thumb pocket. Left hand moves to the lip.
20 Sit start with left hand in a jug and right hand on a side-pull crimp. Bump the right hand to the next side pull and fall into the sloper pinch with the left hand. Right hand moves to good pinch and bump left hand to a gaston. Snag the jug rail out right and mantel.
21 2 3 4 Sit start and climb up the break. Links to #2. Sit start matched on a tufa. Move right hand to a crimp and left hand to an under-cling. Heel hook out right and go to the crescent with the right hand and match. Mantel out right. Sit start and climb up tufa. Match on the crimp rail, bump with the left hand to the small crimp. Heel hook out right and mantel up to a small edge. Slab finish. Sit start on tufa, use the under-cling to get the left hand crimp. Move right hand to gaston and go to the lip with the left hand.
22 Sit start low with left hand on the under-cling and right hand on the crimp. Bump the left hand to a sloper edge and gaston the jug rail with right hand. Climb into the hueco using the under-cling. Left hand moves to the pocket at the lip, right hand crosses over to a crimp and bump the left hand out to mantel.
23 Follow the sequence of perfect crimps up the middle of the face. Big throw for the lip! Start low matched on jug. Climb up the arête and around the bulge using the left hand slopers and the right hand side pulls. Stand start on good holds with a high foot. Climb up the face. 2
24 Start #2 and traverse the lip. Finish on the mantle of #4. Start on crimps and dyno to the dish at the lip. Sit start on the tufa. Left hand moves to a side pull and right hand to a jug. Move left hand to the crimp on the face, then go with right or left hand to the dish at the lip depending on height. Sit start matched on tufa, big throw with the left hand to a good tufa pinch. Right hand moves to the right tufa. Match on the left tufa and bump left hand to the jug. Right hand moves up the rail and place a knee-bar in the notch. Match hands and bump right hand high to the slanted rail, left hand to the lip and mantel. V8 variation: Stand start on the jug. Sit start low on tufa, big throw with the left hand to a good tufa pinch. Bring right hand up the right tufa and bump left to the jug. Cross the right hand through to the fatty feature. Match hands and follow the crimps up the face. V7 variation: Stand start on fatty feature. Sit start on tufa using opposing holds. Climb the arête using side-pulls and the right hand under-cling. Good crimps at the lip
25 2 Sit start on the sloper rail. Left hand goes to pocket and right hand bumps twice to crimp. Go to the lip. Start low on a fin and work your way to the pockets at the lip. Mantle. Sit start with left hand on the arête and right hand on a side pull crimp. Right hand moves to a jug and then bump left hand twice to a gaston. Cross the right hand over to a crimp and bump again to a jug. Exit left. Starts on #3 and at midway jug follow the good holds up the center to the big under-cling. Bump the right hand to good holds while slapping the arête with the left. 20+ moves.
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28 Start on the cobble stones and climb to the flakes. Left hand moves to the crimp and right foot heel-hooks the jug. Move right hand to the left boob, then cross over with the left hand to the right boob and stand up to the lip. Start with the left hand on the crimp and right hand on the gaston. Continue to the lip on good crimps. V3 variation: Exit left. 2 Stand start under the overhanging arête. Follow the sloping crimps to good edges up top.
29 Sit start low matched on the triangular jug. Work your way up the jugs and tufas on the right or left side to the crimps at the lip. Throw for the big pocket. Sit start low matched on the triangular jug. Left hand pocket right hand under-cling. Big crossover with the left hand to small three finger pocket, jump to the right hand sidepull. Finish left on good holds. Stand start left hand under-cling and right hand crimp. Cross right hand over to sloper pocket left hand to far left pocket. Right hand to the rail, match and traverse left on good holds. Easy mantle Stand start left hand under-cling and right hand crimp. Cross right hand over to sloper pocket, left hand to sloping pocket. Match the rail then flip your hands to the under-cling. Right hand gaston with left heel-hook on rail. Left hand to the sloper at the lip right hand crimp. Technical mantel
30 Sit start left hand crimp right hand side-pull jug. Work your way up the good edges along the arête Traverse the boulder from the beginning of #6 and top out #3 Sit start under-cling jug. Left hand sloper rail right hand gaston pinch. Left hand small side-pull pinch right hand to dish at the lip. Mantle left 2 Follow good edges up the slab.
31 A
32 2 3 Stand start on crimps with a high right foot. Right hand to sidepull, left hand to a tiny crimp. Move right Hand to the horizontal slash and bring left hand up to the slash. Big left hand move for the lip. Sit start matched on jug. Move right hand two finger pocket, left hand around the arête to a two finger pocket. High foot cross right hand over to the big edge. Bump right hand up the arête and get an under-cling with the left. Continue bumping the right up the arête to the lip of the boulder. Left hand to crimp out left and mantel. Sit start matched on jug. Left hand to pocket right hand to edge. Climb up using arête with the left hand.
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