Lund Stones. Lund Stones. Unknown Stones. Climbs - 40 Altitude 300m Faces South, South West Grid ref SE

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1 Climbs - 40 Altitude 300m Faces South, South West Grid ref SE Lund Stones Other condition info: An isolated edge with good rock, that, once cleaned, reveals fine and distinctive problems, across a fairly wide grade spread. These tend to be quite a bit harder than they look. A band of big overhangs adds to the challenge but it can remain damp under these so dry conditions are advised. Parking and approach info: On the Dallow Moor road just north of Dallow Gill. Just after the Greygarth/Swetton Y junction is the Tom Corner information point (and the first mosaic). Park here. A short distance up the road is a footpath signpost on the left. Follow the old abandoned green lane downhill (second mosaic) to pass behind Potter Lane House and to the track across the river. Follow it left and back right (footpath line on OS map goes over a wall with no stile). Gates though the fields on the left lead to the left of old ruined barns and onto the moor by the second, bigger, one. Head uphill following a faint path to a metal gate

2 through a dry-stone wall. The crag is around to the left past a bend in the wall though perhaps best reached around in front of the bracken area. 20 mins from the car. An alternative is to combine a visit with Gate House Crag from where the moor can be crossed north-westward to Lund Stones. 4a/ Lund of Opportunity F7b ** SDS to The Arête. Up to rail, arête, reach across to the crack then up. 5/ The Crack F? Awaits someone who can stand the pain. Twin Roof The left end the edge is a wall with a substantial overhang. 1/ Cramp My Style F4+ Use the flake to pull left and gain the ramp then step back right to finish. The protruding block slab is in. 6/ Blind Eye F6c ** SDS deep and just right of the crack then use slots and an edge to swing to better holds and a flake above the lip (no crack but you can use the opposite wall). Muscle up to the right and the mega-bucket top. Phew! 2/ The Splits F6a Same start but use flake to initiate a long move up right to a rounded finish 3/ The Tower of Possibilities F6b * The crack from standing and a fairly high pad-stack. The sitter will be good and tough. The SDS is a project. 4/ The Arête F5 Same starting trickery and up the arête on the right. SDS project. 7/ Heel Haul F7a *** SDS by obvious big foothold. Clever heel hooking leads to two crimps over the roof. Throw for slot and the same finish as BS. A fine problem.

3 8/ Flake Identity F7a *** From SDS on the underlying block & tackle the roof and flake/wall above using small holds to gain the mega-pocket. Class. 9/ Lund of Hope and Glory F7a+ *** SDS. The big roof and Nose. Will be found hard by those of average stature. Centrepiece Around to the right jutting blocks form and alcove. 6/ Escape Clause F6a+ Up to the same good hold over the lip then rock-over right using the big side-pull 7/ A Nervous Man F5+ The rib. 8/ Block and Tackle F5 * Block on the right using thin ramp then the left rib and finally right to the bucket. 1/ Roman Nose F6a * Just right of the jutting nose. 2/ One Scoop F3 * Gain the ledge and up the slab on the left. 3/ Or Two F3 Gain the ledge and then slab on the right. 4/ Legion F6b * Tackle right side of the nose harder than it looks! 5/ Moor Please F5 ** Gain the jugs and edge then swing right to finish. Excellent fun! Check access in the shooting season

4 Lund Blocks To the right is a deep cave with an obvious attractive rib to its left. The cave itself is a speleological expedition. 5/ Eng-Lund Expects F3 The nose past the ledge 1/ Over-Lund F5 ** The crack to the break then reach up for the slot where a thin crack descends from the top. Step right to finish. 2/ Who s Crying Now? F6b+ * SDS on undercut below obvious fin. Up this to the break then undercuts to gain the same slot and finish. 3/Dawning is the Day F5+ * The right wall of the cave has a flake/edge. SDS and use this to gain the break. Step tight and up to take the fin leading to a leftwards step finish. 4/ Ledge-way F3 An easy line past the ledge on the right. Right Boulders A short distance to the right, past some vegetated boulders is a rippled wall with a horseshoe shaped hole. Horseshoe Boulder 1/ Gee Up F4 Left rib from Low SDS. Bovine Avoidance Tactics F6a Horseshoe Block RHS of left arête. Low SDS - LH pocket RH Horizontal pinch. Frog the arete and slap up to RH sloper then LH pinch on the arête. Sort your feet and up

5 2/ Mister Ed F5 * SDS. RH side-pulling in the horseshoe 3/ Horseshoe F4+ * SDS. LH side-pulling in horseshoe. Rule the World The next area is either side of a Holly tree. 1/ The Master F5 * SDS. Up sharp edge on the left. 2/ Rule the Universe F6b SDS left edge of the block right of tree. 3/ Rule The World F6b+ * SDS. Out over roof and mantle. Easier on the right. Further right are some small caves. The block on the left is: Gritstone Udge Block 4/ Golden Rule F6b * SDS. Start on 2, traverse the lip and finish with a mantle around right. Hole in the Wall Further right is another small wall with a distinctive hole. 1/ Gritstone Udge F5 * SDS. Up the shallow groove with more difficulty than one might expect. 1/ Cashpoint F4 SDS. Left rib and cracks. 2/ Hole in the Wall F5 * SDS. Up to and past the hole.

6 3/ AToM F6b/+ * SDS Up the right side. Exact line is may be a bit height dependent. New Problems.