The Stell A Bouldering Guide Part One

Transcription

1 Northumbrian Mountaineering Club Supplement Alec Burns On The Figurehead Bob Smith A series of downloadable PDF guides to new bouldering venues, problems, highballs and routes in Northumberland. Including: The Stell Whiteheugh Raven s Crag Caller Crag, Corby s and Edlingham Greensheen Hill Parkside Wood The Maiden Chambers Area St Cuthbert s Cave The Bowden Area The Wanneys Group Beanly Moor and Hunterheugh Blakey s Block Cockenheugh Kyloe Out Rothley The Ravensheugh Area Banno Crags Titlington and the Turban South Yardhope Brady s Crag Coquet View Shitlington Lookwide Howlerhirst High Crag NMC Northumbrian Mountaineering Club The Stell A Bouldering Guide Part One

2 Introduction... TECHNICAL NOTES The location of each crag is indicated by its Grid Reference. Maps The County is covered by six Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 maps. Sheets 74 (Kelso), 75 (Berwick upon Tweed), 80 (The Cheviot Hills), 81 (Alnwick and Rothbury), 87 (Hexham and Haltwhistle) and 88 (Tyneside). The majority of the crags lie on sheets 75 and 81. General On occasions the problems are referenced to routes that are not described in the climbing guide, or in the second edition bouldering guide. These are highlighted in blue italics. You may need these guides or to ask a local climber help you locate the problems. Sit Starts Most problems are written up as standing starts off one mat only! Generally sit starts are added at the end of a description where they add either to the difficulty, or quality. Only rarely will a sit start be separately named. Rules It has long been understood in Northumberland that if a twig is found on a good foothold, then the foothold is out of bounds. The same applies to bedding planes, ledges and footholds in contact with the ground. Usually these are out of bounds. The previous guide wisely suggested that if you are wondering if the foothold is in, then it probably is not! Further Information The NMC website has a variety of resources relating to climbing in the County. If you have this PDF you ve probably found it already. Otherwise go to: New Problems Descriptions of new problems and routes should be sent to A description, grade, date and name of first ascentionist should be included. A photo with a line marking the route would also help. Bob Smith Greensheen Slopers Traverse Greensheen Hill Photo: Steve Blake BOULDERING GRADES...Northumberland Bouldering It is true to say that there are only two grades, the problems and routes you can do, and those you can t. To the keen boulderer however it soon becomes apparent that this can be sub divided into the problems you can do and your mates can t, and vice versa! Grading boulder problems (and some routes) is an almost impossible task. The table below is a rough comparison of the common systems in use. Visitors to the County will probably find that until they get used to the style of the problems and the intricacies of climbing on the County s various Sandstones that the accuracy of the table will be questionable. Grades are an art rather than a science, and while difficulty is central to bouldering, it is easily confused with quality. The pursuit of which is an equally rewarding endeavour. The various grading systems are well understood, and like grades are an ongoing source of debate regarding their respective merits. In these PDF guides we have retained the Font grades introduced in the last guidebook and their use is now established and understood. Highballs The height of many crags in the County lends them to a highball approach. Mats can reduce the consequences when highballing goes wrong, but there comes a point when they look very small. Many of these problems would have been considered small routes not long back, (though some in this new series are not so small) and occasionally are compounded with bad landings. Falling off them should not be treated casually. While it should be self evident those that fall into this category get an (H) symbol indicating the potential Highball, Helicopter and Hospital factor. Be careful! Steve Blake Shitlington Wall Shitlington Photo: Alec Burns FONT UK TECH V GRADE 3 4c VB 4 5a 4+ 5b V0 5 V1 5+ 5c 6a V2 6a+ 6a V3 6b 6b+ V4 6c 6c+ 7a 6b V5 V6 7a+ 6c V7 7b 7b+ V8 7c V9 7c+ V10 8a 7a V11 8a+ V12 8b 7b V13 8b V14

3 Introduction... SUSTAINABILITY The quality and durability of Sandstone in Northumberland varies significantly both on and between crags. Iron hard rock with a case hardened patina can coexist with a super soft cheesy substance soft enough to be shaped by hand. Sadly there is much evidence that the tough patina when worn away reveals a soft inner that rapidly erodes. There are many examples, but Vienna at Bowden Doors is probably the most famous example, which in it s current deplorable state is a much easier and sad shadow of the original. Over the last thirty years the popularity of Rock Climbing and Bouldering has accelerated and there is much similar evidence of our impact on the crags. Routes and problems on Sandstone, (especially that which can be as fragile as ours), are a finite resource and need careful and sensitive protection if they are to survive. It is worth repeating that you should not climb on sandstone when there is any evidence of dampness. The rock becomes significantly weaker losing it s bonding when damp, and is susceptible to accelerated erosion and breakage. Once a break occurs, or the outer patina is penetrated then the effects of erosion are exponential. Vienna Bowden Doors Many magnificent routes in Northumberland have escaped significant damage, principally because the habit of top roping hard routes has not been adopted as readily as elsewhere. Bouldering however, is a particularly intensive game which can see a team cycling through repeated attempts on a problem, brushing and ragging between each effort. The impact of this can be seen on relatively recent problems on which holds are already bleaching out., and this is on rock thought of as hard. We are the stewards of these places. There are many things we can do to minimise our direct impact on them 1. Everyone should acknowledge and understand the fragility of the medium and learn to walk away if there is any suggestion of dampness and the rock is not in condition. 2. Set yourself a realistic number of attempts at a problem, if you can t do it, leave it until you can do it David Murray On Barnaby Rudge The Good Book Section, The Stell. Alec Burns collection...northumberland Bouldering without beating it into submission. We need to have enough humility to understand that the rock s needs are more important than our egos. Learn to walk away and come back when you re capable. 3. Be gentle with brushwork, and minimal with your chalk. Climbing indoors we can brush the holds to our hearts content, outdoors the effect can be catastrophic. 4. Poor footwork also impacts, clean your shoes before you begin an attempt. Modern shoes allow a huge amount of force to be exerted through the feet, twisting on smears has a grinding effect that speeds up erosion. Be aware, use good footwork and tread lightly. 5. Don t use the problems for training, running laps may look cool, but do it indoors on plastic, not on the rock. 6. Take your junk home, don t light fires, leave gates open, If you must, learn how to shit in the woods. Do not be generally antisocial.

4 The Stell Right of Access Under CROW OS Map Sheet OL42 : GR Altitude: 213m Aspect: North West Facing Alnwick Approach: 15 Minutes LOCATION AND CHARACTER The crag is located on Debdon Moor, approximately 1.5 miles North of Rothbury, A market town Rothbury A697 North West of Morpeth, and South West of Alnwick. Rothbury and it s environs are shown on OS MAP Sheet 81 and the 1:25,000 sheet OL42 at GR The crag is approximately 120m long and faces North West. It catches the afternoon and evening A1 sun in the Summer. It is exposed and doesn t carry much drainage. As such it dries out quickly. This also means that if the wind is blowing from the West then you will feel it. The crag is on Access Land and climbers have a right of access to the crags. However the moor has signs of being a managed shoot. It is possible that applications for temporary closure could be applied for. These would have to be agreed by Natural England and posted on the Access Land web site. This can be found at Morpeth The diagrams opposite should be sufficient to get the newcomer to the area to the crag. The rock is good quality, blocky fell sandstone. It has undoubtedly been quarried in antiquity the problems range in difficulty from 5+ through to 8b. There are both B6341 highballs and problems of a more modest height, and many will test your man- Steve Blake tling technique to complete them in good On The Joker style. Despite having been climbed on since 2008 some problems are showing signs of wear. The large side hold of Stuck In The Middle is already taking a Rothbury beating. Please tread lightly. Approach Parking is available in the Debdon Forest pullout on the West side of the Rothbury/Alnwick road (B6341) Please do not block either the access to the forestry yard, or the main track which provides access for farms on Debdon Moor. The crag is a 15 minute walk from the parking. Follow the track West, and once through the gate follow another track North. This passes through a small quarry and then a Birch wood. Once clear of the wood, strike North across the moor, passing to the right of the power pole. The crag can t be seen but will be reached in five minutes. A variety of quad and sheep tracks cross the moor. Note it is prone to being boggy, but a wet hike does not necessarily mean the crag will be damp. P B6341

5 Introduction... HISTORY The Left Hand Section The crag was discovered in 2008 by Steve Blake as part of his ongoing forensic exploration of the County s undiscovered crags. It was a surprising discovery given the crag is marked on the map and can be seen from the Carriage Walk, a popular ramble to the West of Debdon Moor. It s discovery is Last & First Blocky Block Matterhorn Block all the more fortuitous given Steve almost turned back when nothing could be seen on the first approach. Development by Steve and the Back in the Day team followed pretty promptly Blake snapped up the highball lines on the pinnacle and several shorter problems on the rest of the crag. These lines were either cleaned on the go or with a very long cleaning brush! They are all excellent. Bob Smith, Alec Burns, Ian and David Murray, and John Earl all got in on the act. Bob s Wandering Minstrel traverse being notable, as is the mantle problem on the Blocky Block. Martin Waugh eventually subdued the steep Doctors Orders and Chris Sowden, a Yorkshire visitor, nipped in to claim the steep Sowden s Roof. Chris Graham visited and added a characteristically hard and direct start to Stuck in the Middle, while Dan Varian was made aware of the crag after a Mark Savage photo shoot. After a number of visits The Centre Dan s steely fingers established Great Expectations, (the hardest problem on the crag). He or Aido Holt climbed the slopers and mantle to the left of Stuck s (very) direct start thus adding a very hard Wandering Minstrel The Neb Great Expectations and direct start to the Clown on the pinnacle. There may be others yet to do but they will undoubtedly be very hard and very eliminate in their nature. The crag is described from Left to Right. Key features are the Blocky Block, the Matterhorn Block, the Neb, the Great Expectations Block, Moby Dick and the West Wall. The Right Hand Section Great Expectations Moby Dick West Wall Steve Blake Making use of his span. Stuck in the Middle. Bob Smith The Doldrums

6 The Stell....Last & First Section Last & First Section The Wee Man 6c BS? 1. First and Last 6a BS The wall at the far left hand edge of the crag 2. Easy Wall 6b NK Misnamed, it s not easy! A tricky move with poor footholds leads to a large hold and easier climbing to the top. 3. The Man from the Ministry 6c BS SS The scooped wall, then up and left, quite awkward. Start with your left hand on cripms and your right on the arête. Pull on and work your right hand up the arête until the left reached the quartz holds up and left Directly up the centre of the wall. 5. The Little Leaner 6B+ BS SS Get established on the wall and drift left to go up the blunt rib. 6. Sowders 6b+ CS SS Pull up the blunt arête and continue by an obvious horizontal sloper. 7. Spanman 7a MW SS Start as for Sowders, but span right to the obvious slot on the right. Continue up the right edge (left of the crack) Bob Smith On The Little Leaner Bob Smith collection

7 The Stell...Last & First Section The Blocky Bloc Sowders Arete 6b+ CS Sit Start. The blunt arête which is climbed on good crimps and reaches to a rounded finish. 7. Spanman 6c MW Sit Start. A difficult eliminate. Start as for Sowders then span, crimp, udge or squirm up and right to the slot 8. The Flapper 6c CS Sit Start. From the obvious hold pull out and left, reach up to the sloping finger rail up right and then the sloping finish. 9. Bubble Goose 7b+ DV Sit Start. Climbs the right side of the nose. The right wall is (obviously) out. Chris Sowden On The Flapper Bob Smith collection The Tank Block 10. The Tank Arete 6b+ BS Sit Start. Clamp the blunt arête, pull on and pivot left, palming along the top edge 11. The Tank Groove 6c BS Sit Start. Layaway up the quartz dyke to a standing position simple1 12. Too hard for Blakey 7a? BS An outrageous mantle up the centre of the bloc should be straightforward, but isn t! 13. Box Arete 6b+? Sit Start. Clamp the box like arête and mantle onto the tank.

8 The Stell...The Matterhorn The Matterhorn a a b The Matterhorn Pinnacle a 18 These lines are all quite highball Thankfully there is a good jug at the top which allows you to compose yourself for stepping down and across the gap. The variations around Stuck in the Middle are all fun and some pretty hard! 14. Crevasse Wall 6b SB Up the wall of the crevasse using the right arête. 15. Left Edge 6b SB Up the slab using the left arête. 16a. Eliminate A 6b SB Up the slab, no left arête and no sneaking over to the pocket on the right. 16b. The Clown 6a+ (E1 5B) SB The first route on the pinnacle. Traverse diagonally rightwards until a two finger pocket for the right hand allows the arête to be reached. Up this to a jug at the top. 17. Clown Sloper Start 7b (Or more!) DV or AH Sit Start. From the pocket reach over the lip to slopers on the slab. An improbable mantle (or Magic Carpet takes you onto the slab. 18a The Matterhorn Pinnacle. 18. Stuck in the Middle Left (Direct) Start 7b+ CG Sit Start. Using the layaway edge, muscle up to the bump over the lip, and then layaway over the lip. Rock over onto and into the slab micro groove, continue. 18a. Stuck in the Middle Sit Start 7b SB Sit Start. Using the obvious layaway edge, muscle up to the bump, pop right and right again. Compress and hook leftward into the micro groove. Continue. (The Stand Start clamping the aretes is 7a.) 19. The Joker to the Right. 6c SB Up the centre of the wall until the upper arête is reached, Monkey up this to the top. 20. Chessica Rabbit. 7c DV Sit start as for 18, but use small crimps to drift up and right to the upper right hand arête. 21. The Gully Wall. 6b+ SB Sit Start. Clamp the back facet until a pull around to the right can be made, which leads to the arête and top. 20 It is possible to girdle the pinnacle, figure it out for yourself... 21