High Crag (Stump Cross)
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- Warren Cole
- 5 years ago
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1 High Crag (Stump Cross) Climbs - 25 Altitude 410m Faces North West Other condition info: Smart little edge and boulders with a useful collection of routes and problems in a convenient and fine location. Worth a visit. Summer evenings are especially good. Worth avoiding in winter. Parking and approach info: Off road parking just below Stump Cross Caverns (cafe here too). Go through the gate and down to the dry valley. Turn left, cross the stile and follow the wall uphill with a path appearing. Can be boggy so suitable footwear recommended. Most of the problems are the work of Malcolm Townsley with some recent harder additions by Kim and Will Buck. John Hunt, Dave Musgrove, Bob Larkin and Paul Clarke also added a few lines. There are a lot of blocks to the left of the main crag but none of these prove sufficiently large to provided worthwhile problems. Rough Boulder The first good block is at the far left end of the edge and is a good place to start the warm-up. 1/ Rough Edge f4+ * SDS. The arête avoiding the corner 2/ Rough Rib f4 * SDS. Climb just right of the rib. 3/ Rough Rider f 4+/5 * SDS feet on block at the back then ride the blunt rib on its left side.
2 2/ Pop F6a * SDS. Undercut the arêtes then the central wall without the vertical parts 3/ Central Arete f5+ * SDS. Keep on the left side of the arête. 4/ Tumble F5* The scoop using an undercut in the break. Three problems climb the slab to the right. Pleasant warm-up problems. 5/ Fe f3 4/ Corner Climb f2 5/ Crossing f5+ Start up 1 and cross 3 to finish up the right arête using big pocket. No crack. Pointy Boulder 6/ Fi f2 7/ Fo f2 Over to the right and at a higher level is a boulder with three arêtes: Three Arêtes Boulder Next is the upstanding pointy and crinkly boulder. 1/ Sideshow f5+ SDS. LHS of the arête. A bit green. 1/ Left Arête f4
3 2/ Point the Way f4+ SDS. Leaning block then right side of arête. Main Wall 3/ Centre Point f5 SDS. Crack and centre of the face. 4/ Point Right f5+ * SDS. Awkward block then right arête. Heather Wall 1/ Slab and Wall D Slab and Wall. 2/ Camel Rib S 4b * 3/ Camel s Crack S 4b Finish either L or R 4/Will s Arête E2 6b (f6c) * Bold L side of the square arête. 5/ The Prayers of a Fish E1 6a (f6b) ** Also feel bold. R side of arête. 1/ Route A S 4a 2/ Route B s 4b * 3Route C VS 5a * Eliminate between the cracks Route D MVS 4b * Route E D Wide crack and heather fringe. 6/ Camel and Fish Slab VS 4c * Pull onto slab and pass the big slot. 7/ End Slab S 4a R side of slab Two traverses exist both are good. 8/ The Hump f5 L to R along the break.
4 9/ The Breath of a Camel HS 4b ** Start up 7 and finish up 5 (or combine with The Hump). Around to the right is a smart undercut wall with some of the best problems at High Crag. Camel Wall Camel and Fish Walls provide the best concentration of problems on the crag. All can be continued on the buttresses above if you wish. 6/ Push Me Pull You F6c * Sitter from the back starting on big undercut. 7/ Alpaca Min f 5 Avoid the corner and pull onto the wall. 8/ Two feet Dyno f6a ** The right arête. SDS with feet on the block. 1/ Ship of the Desert f4 * The arête from standing. 2/ Legal High f6b+ ** Same arête from a sitter. 9/ Stumped f7a+/b ** 2 then follow the break to finish up 8 with no block for feet 3/ Doomed Dromedary f6a+ * Wall from holds on the lip. 4/ Will s Problem f6c ** Join the previous problem starting using the rail at the back of the roof. 5/ Lost Llama f5 * The crack/groove from the lip sitter.
5 Fish Wall 1/ Kim s Crimps f6c ** SDS with both hands on the small rail. Slap/crimp your way to glory 2/ Stone Fish f4 * SDS. Jugs and crack 3/ Angel Fish f5 * SDS. Crack. 4/ Pinnacle f2 * Climb the pinnacle (then work out how to get down). 5/ Crazy Crimpin f6a * The right arête of the overhanging prow hoping you don t fall into the hole. 4/ A Fish Called Wanda f5+ ** SDS. Wall with small spike. 5/ Billy the Fish f6a * SDS good arête. 6/ Cross F6c ** SDS as for 1 but pull across right. Keep going to finish as for 5. Pinnacle. Over the wall is a pinnacle with a clean rib on its left. 1/ Flake f4 SDS and pull left to use big flake. 2/ Rib f4+ Same but up the rib direct. 3/ Escape f3+ Same start but pull right.
6 Right Edge 1/ Blunt Arête f4+ * Good 2/ Neat Wall f4+ * 3/ Grooved f4 4/ High Rib f2 * 11a/ Fourth Dimension f6b+ ** SDS. Shallow twin niche feature just right of green arête/chimney (and not using it!). Pull up past central rib to good hold then tricky moves to good jug below the heater. Escape right. 5/ The Bulge f6b * SDS. Surprisingly tough pulls then easy ground. A good problem. 6/ First Crack f3+ 7/ First Crack Sitter f5+ * From lowest jam. 8/ Second Crack f4+ 9/ Third Crack f5 * Best of the bunch 10/ Rock-over Wall f6a * Just right of the crack 11/ Nice Arête f5 * A bit reachy. 12/ Right Wall f4 The harder left side of the wall. 13/ Right Wall Right f2+ The easier right side. 14/ Doddle f2 Pleasant slab
7 Massive Flake 1/ Massive Flake f5 * The last wall has (at least for now) a massive flake. Hang the ledge then pull over the flake.
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