Jenny Binks Boulders

Transcription

1 Climbs - 20 Altitude 370m Faces South Jenny Binks Boulders Jenny Binks Boulders Other condition info: A fine, quite high wall of perfect grit that is very Slipstones like and faces south in a fine position overlooking the valley and moors up the valley past Brown Beck Crag. There is also a collection of good boulders. Landings are flat but a couple of mats are recommended as some problems are high. Check for shooting restrictions before a visit. NOTE This valley is home to adders. You are unlikely to see one but take care when walking in early in the day when they might be found sunning themselves on the path. Parking and approach info: Park as for Slipstones and follow the track to the gate. The narrow moorland path that is used to access Brown Beck Crag branches off the main path here. Follow it up the valley, passing Brown Beck and keep going past the obvious prow of Hanging Stones. Once the crag/boulders come into view choose a line up to another path that contours below Hanging Stones and across to the lower boulders (passing some smaller boulders on the way). An easy hour s walk. Documented by Alex Thompson and Paul Clarke Apl No signs of earlier exploration but??

2 Small Gods Wall The obvious wall at the moor edge 1/ Didactylos 3 The wrinkly wall left of two cracks. 2/ Om 3 * The two cracks. 3/ Brutha 3+ Just right of the right-hand crack. 4/ The Eighth Prophet 4+ Just right passing a small crimp. 5/ A Hat Full of Sky 6b ** Wall direct to obvious V shaped nick. Tecky fun. 7/ Small Gods 6b *** The arête with increasing difficulty... Class. 8/ A Moment of Doubt 6a ** The groove, stepping up with... 9/ The Adder 5 ** The snaking flake. 10/ Vorbis 5+ The arête on its left side. A Moment of Doubt 6 The Question 6c+/7a * An attempt at a direct. Climb to obvious bulbous hold short of the top where a reach left and footwork sometimes allows the top to be reached - very close to Hatfull. Is the direct a goer?

3 The Millstone Wedge The obvious wedge shaped block down to the right (facing in). 4/ Eidetic Memory 5 ** Arête on its left side. Lovely. Spotted the millstones? 1/ Good Omens 6b * Use undercuts to reach small crimps just below the top 2/ Project Theatre of Cruelty? The centre of the wall. 3/ Twoflower 6a * Just left of first arête with a tricky rockover. 3a/ Project Unseen Academicals? Same line but with a big throw from the first undercuts. 5/ Roll Millstone, Roll 2 ** The right arête/slab/ramp. 6/ Raising Steam 6a* SDS L arête. Follow the seam just below top and round right. The slab to the right can be climbed almost anywhere at fun 2. Little Prow Eidetic Memory Little Prow 4+ * SDS. Small prow down to left.

4 Scoop-n-Rib Just to the left are a couple of small but good problems. Below is a boulder with a short overhanging east side. This is Coffin Henry. 1/Battle Bread 5+ SDS. A throw from the shelf gains the top 2/ A Powerful Connection With The Chalk 6c * SDS A tiny side-pull crimp and broken flake are used to gain the better holds. 1/ Roundworld 6a * SDS. The rib on small holds. 2/ Scorcery 5+ * SDS. The scoop. 3/ Tiffany Aching 6a * SDS. Flakes to the top and over. To the right a shelf gets in the ay of worthy problems make of it what you will. Stories of imagination tend to upset those without one Terry Pratchett 4/ Trousers of Time 3 * Nice steep rib. 5/ Soul Cake Day 3* Up, step right and follow the pods.

5 6/ Counting Pines 3 Step right and up the crack feature. 4/ Rincewind 5+ ** SDS. Great little rib. The Patrician This is the large boulder below Coffin Henry with a heather top and featured valley face. Harder than it looks! The entire universe has been neatly divided into things to (a) mate with, (b) eat, (c) run away from, and (d) rocks Rincewind 5, Feet of Clay 5+ * SDS Good and tricky. 1/ Time is a Drug 3+ * The rib SDS available. 2/ Too Much Kills You 6a * SDS. A tight eliminate. 3/ Nac Mac Feegles 5 * SDS the rib. The crack provides further opportunities to understand that inside every sane person is a madman struggling to get out. 6/ The Colour of Magic 5 * SDS. Tricky top. 7/ The City Watch 4 * SDS Easier line. 8/ Philosophical Questions 5 * SDS. Pull and slap. 9/ Mort 6b+ * SDS. Sidepull, edge, jam, grunt. 10/ The Fifth Elephant 6b* SDS. Traverse the breaks.