Hueco Tanks. presents. North Mountain. a little bouldering guide. And much more kick ass bouldering. Delivrance Boulder
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- Justin Short
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1 Delivrance Boulder to Mushroom presents slab 0, a little bouldering guide 0 estrooms. The Affectation Start with the low huecos in undercling and climb the scoop with crimps.. To-Bo Or Not To Bo Climb the left side of the face, just right of the centre... Jellyroll Jamboree Climb the tallest line of the face. Start on a jug and traverse left to finish in To-Bo Or Not To Be. -. Start on a jug and traverse left along a crack and top out as Sir Nose D'Voidoflunk.. SDS - Start on a crimp and climb straight up to a small right-facing corner.. Sir Nose D'Voidoffunk - Climb right of the arete.. Downpressor Man Start on the high left-facing hold and go to the right side of the small roof.. NE ace + Many variations up the face. The tallest line up the center is the hardest. 0. East ace to Many variations up the face. The left line up the dark streak is the hardest,. Albino Simpleton Climb the overhanging prow.. Manly Stuff SDS - Start on a big hueco and go for two left-facing huecos, then top out.. Southern Hospitality Start with the feet high -finger hueco and climb straight up.. Drooling Banjos Start on sidepulls and climb left of the arete.. Squeal Like A Pig Climb the face with edges.. Special Delivery Start as Squeal Like A Pig but traverse left all the way to the stack of rock right of where you started. of Hueco Tanks North Mountain Mushroom Boulder The New Meadow The Gymnasium Small Potatoes Big Time Trac II Warm Up Boulder Lunch ocks Delivrance And much more kick ass bouldering
2 Hueco Tanks, Texas We all heard about the access problems in Hueco. But what's the real deal? Well, you can still climb and it is still a kick ass place even though there are restrictions. If you go in Hueco on weekdays, when there are no holidays around, you'll be able to climb enough to trash your fingers. Austin The only area you can go by yourself is the North Mountain. That's still plenty of boulderings, including the classic Mushroom Boulder. They allow 0 people to walk-in everyday. That means, get there early and you might be able to climb without a reservation. Another 0 persons are allowed to go in the park with reservation. If they don't show up by noon, you can get their places. Even before noon some people cancel, so hang around if you couldn't get a walk-in. The fee is $ a day or you can get a Texas pass for $0 a year. You also have to go through a short orientation which will be good for a year. or reservation call () -00 or at " .reservation@tpwd.state.tx.us" If you want to climb outside North Mountain, you have to go on a guided tour. The park offers free tours that last between and hours. It happens however that those tours are cancelled. You can also get a less expensive tour that last hours with ob. Get info at () -0 0 The Mushroom Boulder, 0 to restrooms How to get there: rom El Paso, drive on /0 east for about miles, then make a left on rd for Hueco Tanks Historical State Park. This road will get you straight to the park. rom anywhere east of El Paso, get to the I-0 direction El Paso. Exit at Sierra Blanka on rd north. After 0 miles this road will end as it meets the /0. Take a left and drive on this rd until you see the sign for rd and Hueco Tanks. Make a right and this road will get you in the park. When: rom October to early April. It is the desert so temperature drops a lot at night and the nights are quite cold in the winter. Eat: There are many places to eat in El Paso. Go out there and explore. A popular place for quick stuff is the Vista Market which has excellent fresh tortillas and good pastries. rom Hueco, go toward El Paso on Montana ave. It will be a small yellow and blue bulding on your left, just after the Vista Market. To do groceries, you can go on Montana ave or if you want something bigger, the closest supermarket is the Smith. rom Hueco, go to the /0 (Montana) and turn right. Drive for miles or so, after a Body Shop and a Diamond Shamrock gas station, make a left on George Dieter d. Drive on this road passing a few traffic lights. You'll get to a busy place with a bunch of fast foods, a K-Mart and a Smith on your left and a Target on your right. Sleep: You have a few options for camping: - You can camp for free in the desert but this is not recommended. - You can camp for $ at Pete s, with no amenities. - You can camp in the actual Hueco Park but you need to reservation. - You can camp at the Hueco ock anch like most of the climbers do. To get to ob's, travel down rd (which gets you to the park). Prior to the entrance to the park, you will see a red sign that says "Hueco Mountain oad", turn left. After 0. mile, turn right on the first paved road (Woodrow road). Travel down Woodrow d 'til it dead-ends into a gravel road, turn left. Travel down the gravel road for / mile. ob's is the rd house on the left, a beige two story with a silver roof. You can't miss it. Guidebook: The first guidebooks to Hueco were written by John Sherman. They introduced the V-Scale to north America. They were very well done and set the standards for bouldering guides in the 0s. Matt Wilder managed to raise the bar with his latest guidebook to Hueco. Probably one of the best guide published in the last few years. Start on a good hueco, just under where the wall gets smaller. ollow a thin crack. Legal High + Start on huge hueco and go up and right.. Twisted. Start just next of Legal High but go left.. amily Size. Ascent of Man.. Climb good huecos left of the slabby ramp. Gotta Want It ight Wannabe + SDS - Climb along a thin crack with left-facing holds. Start on a left-facing hueco and climb up to a right-facing corner.. Left Wannabe Direct start without using the small left-facing flake.. Local lakes Direct. The Local lakes 0.. Start on crimps feet high, go right with sidepulls and finish in the "v" at the top. My ifteen Minutes Start on the same crimps than The Local lakes, but trend left on bad crimps. The Women With The... 0 Start on micro crimps, go to a left-facing gaston and climb the face. V Climb with sidepulls, directly under the huecos.. ight El Murray Start with high crimps right of the low roof and move right with good sidepulls to the biggest hueco. Left El Murray Start as Center but trend left (SDS for this one or Center is a ).. Center El Murray. Start from the big hueco and crimp your way to the next one. The dyno is a cool but dangerous. Left El Sherman Start from the big hueco as ight El Sherman but go left to the smaller-but-still-big hueco.. ight El Sherman.. Crap Arete Climb the steep arete with huecos. Broken holds???. Jerogringo Collision Course Climb the right side of the small boulder.. Blast-Off. The Gantry + Climb the middle of the small boulder. Climb the arete. Start with a sidepull and a good crimp, traverse right and top out left of the leaning boulder. That's Entertainement Start low, climb with good crimpers and traverse right to the Mushroom top out. Broken holds at the lip make it harder???? Mushroom oof V The classic. Start with the big jug feet high and climb the roof to the tricky top out. Also a SDS variation. Craterface - ool around with big holds. -
3 . Start with the low hueco and climb to the mantle..... SDS - Climb the arete. SDS - Climb up to the big hueco. lesh Tuxedo Between SDS - Start on the BIG jug under the roof, climb the roof and pull over the lip. Tiny ubber Lover SDS - Start with a slot and a jug under the roof.. Secret Weapon Start with the incut smile and go up to some gastons.. Buzz Bomb SDS - Start sitting on a boulder, on the right side of the low roof... Tobacco-chewing... Start on a flat jug and climb the face. Start on right-facing sidepull. eally short. 0. The Sphincter Start squeezed between the two boulders. Climb with good edges.. Dingleberry Jones.. Start right hand with the "V" in the crack.. Hard Wipe Start left hand with the "V" in the crack.. The Hashmarker Start standing on a boulder and climb right of the arete.. Butt Buddy SDS - Climb the short overhanging arete. 0. Lucky Pierre Climb the polished face.. Saxon Tactics SDS - Climb the arete.. Top Guy SDS - Climb in the middle of the small face.. Gay Abandon Climb right of the arete and left of the tree.. eces Of The Ages Start with a good incut edge.. Eek-A-Mouse. Scary Arete. The Melon Patch. Proud to be an.... Eczema. Psoriasis. Shaved Pits. ive O'Clock Shadow. rom the right-facing sidepull go way up and left to a hueco above the bulge. Start as Shaved Pits but go up and right. 0. Boo Climb the middle of the face, left of the one-digit mono. Climb the arete. 0 Climb the overhanging arete. Climb the line of huecos, right of the arete. Start right of the boulder with small crimps. ollow the crack up and left. Climb the slab just left of the corner V, + hard East Mountain SDS - Start on slopers really low, climb up with bad holds and trend right over the boulder. Lower Lost (page ) P P Interpretive Center North Mountain Overview Upper Lost Boulders (page ) Big Time (page ) P estrooms Parking Potatoes (page ) Chains Park Headquaters dam The Kitchen (page ) Trac II (page ) Gymnasium (page 0) The New Meadow (page ) Sign Of The Cross (page ) Warm Up Boulder (page ) P Ghetto Simulator () 0' overhanging jug fest with a slab behind it. P Gate Split Boulder (page ) Lunch ock (page ) Dam Delivrance (page 0) Mushroom Boulder (page ) Between (page ) to HWY /0 (Montana Ave) There are more areas on North Mountain, but those are some of the best. If you plan on staying for a while, Sherman's guidebook is definitely worth it.
4 The Kitchen and The Gums Area Park just after the entrance station, at the interpretive centre (Escontrias anch House). You can see, right of the slab, a bunch of steep boulders, that's The Kitchen. To go to The Gums walk left around The Kitchen. Split And Malice 0 0, D 0 SDS - Start with underclings at the bottom of the roof and go to a line of slopey huecos. ear Burner SDS - Start with a bad undercling, and go to a bunch of small huecos.. Short Order Cook. Traverse the right wall from left to right without using the boulder behind.. Deep ryer.. Gulp'n Blow Start on a big hueco, left of a feet drop, and climb up to a hueco at the lip. Poppin' resh Start way right.. A Woman's Place SDS - Climb up and right.. The Butcher Block Start with a high, good edge.. Garbage Disposal feet right of the end.. See Sharp Start right of the slabby boulder. Possible SDS. Start with low crimps and up to a pinch. The top out is the crux. 0. Be lat. A Minor Start with a pocket and a knob and climb the really short face.. Gums Climb the slab with many knobs.. Dentugrip Start with a good feet hold and almost no hands.. oot Canal Climb the right side of the face on tiny crimps.. Gums Slab - Many friction problems up the slab.. Juarez Dentist SDS - Start with jug at the lip and lock off to other jugs.. Speak to Me Oh... Climb right of the low crack.. Bad Betas Climb left of the low crack.. red's Problem Start on a wide undercling under the bulge. Go slightly left to small crimps then to left-facing sidepulls and pull on the slab. 0. Power of Silence 0 Start on high crimps in the small dihedrall and go right. Looks until you try.. Springtime for Hitler Climb the crack. SDS - Start with slopers and climb the steep crack.. icardo Cracker With the fact on the ground, reach for huecos at the lip.. The A-Cup Team + Start with a high sidepull and climb up and left to the corner.. Split Personality. Split Infinitive Start as Split Personality but go straight up the face. Climb the steps up to a small corner. Start with left-facing holds and climb the small bulge.. Banana Split. Split Grain Start right of the scoop-corner and trend left to finish in Split Grain. The So-Bogeyman Climb the slab.. Splitting Headache.. Splitting Image Climb the small column left of the crack. 0. Split Crack. Split Decision The crack. Start on the hueco and climb under the left-leaning crack.. Various Many s with Split names.
5 to 0 Lunch ocks Area Sign Of The Cross Standing on the northwest end of the dam, you point toward this area. It is hidden in the boulders a few yards in front of you. To the dam. eel Like Shit... Deja Vu Grab the lip and top out.. oughage Start with the left-facing flake and climb the steep face, going slightly left over a bad landing.. Slip It In SDS - Start right hand in a pocket and bump a few times to eyes.... Another Dick ace Start at the right end of the tree with crimps. Wonderhole The name says it all. No Wonder SDS - Obvious start and go right on the bulge. +. Orifice Affair SDS - Huecos, hueco, hueco, hueco, gaston and then the top.. Tell Mama Start left of the horizontal crack and go right to huecos. 0. Just Another Pretty ace Climb the slab right of the bushes.. The Dripping Gash Left foot on a good edge, right-hand hueco-sidepull, step for the seam.. The Thighburner Start with slopey huecos sidepull and go right for a jug.. Swinging Single Jump to the lip.. Daily Grind. Another Day, Another.... How Cilley Can You Get. The Torture Never Stop.. Jingomo Grab crimps at the lip and crank up the short face. Don't fall on the boulder behind. 0. Scarface Stand on the boulder and climb the scoop. Stand right of the -hole rock. Climb right of the rock, with good crimps. Start next to the -hole rock.. Present Arms Start with the -finger sidepull and climb left of the arete.. The Lazy Cowgirls Start as Present Arms but traverse right to top out right of the arete.. Thingfish Start on good holds right of the crack. Start low on a good edge at the lip.? evenge of the Choir Boys V SDS - Start in the back of the cave on a sloper. Climb the featured roof up and then left. Sign of the Cross Start high with the small hueco. Starting with the undercling and adding one move is. Chablank Sit down start to Sign of the Cross. Start as The Torture Never Stop, traverse left and top out as Present Arms Arislope,. Hard Again Climb left of the arete. 0. Hungry Belly Climb right of the arete.. Various Potbelly, BI and Pedro Drives One In. problems with bad landing.. Culture + Climb with the corner.. Turtle Wax - Climb with many cracks.. Armor All Start with a good sidepull and go right for a pocket. Start with the low sloper on the arete and go for another sloper. Top out right or left. Thin White Line Start with the bad hueco and climb the face without using the arete or the jugs out right. Lughead - Climb the big seam with huecos. Doug's Project Start with crimps. Go to hueco.
6 . Supergoose SDS - Start with the undercling in the middle of the wall.. Mexican Love Handle Start with slopey hueco and climb the short face under the big hanging boulder.. Girls Of Texas SDS - Start with big jugs at the lip and pull over the bulge with bad crimps.. El Marco SDS - Start squeezed between the boulders.. ast Break SDS - Start with crimps, feet left of El Mexico..... SDS - Start with a jug and up with good holds. The rench oute Climb the middle of the face. Cheapcake ollow the right-leaning crack and top out left. El auncho Upper Lost Boulder Start with a high sidepull and climb the tallest line. V + 0. Not Again The middle of the face.. Gangrene Seam Climb the thin crack. 0. istfucker SDS - Start at the very back of the roof and climb the fist crack.. ingerfucker SDS - Start in huecos and up to a finger crack.. Big Iron On His Hip Start on the slopey hueco and traverse right to the good flake and top out on crimps.. Shaken Not Stirred SDS - Start in the back of the cave and climb right to finish on Big Iron.. Esperanza SDS - Start in Shaken Not Stirred then go straight on crimps.. Martini oof 0 SDS - Start at the back of the cave but go left on hueco.. Schadenfraud SDS - Start on the left side of the cave and finish on Martini oof..... Terminal ootball The long slab left of the tree. Various Many lines to fool around. The Hens rom Hell The left line that starts right of a small bush. Black Napkins Start with crimps right of the arete. + s. Winking Jesus Start with a high -hand crimp and climb left of the arete.. Stinking Jesus Climb with sidepulls, right of the scoop.. Pounding System SDS - Start behind the tree and traverse left to finish as Barnstormer.. Noh Bada Wid It + Climb the arete.. Big Shot + Start with the flake, climb to the wide jug and go right. 0. The Butter Dish Start as Big Shot but climb directly through the bulge. The sit down start is.. Thunderbird Start in huecos and climb up to the vertical crack.. Barnstormer Start with a high left-facing sidepull, go right to another sidepull and up to a jug.. Murray Lunge Start as Barnstormer but lunge to the jug.. Namedropper SDS - Start on good crimps and traverse right with huecos and slopers.. T-Bone Shuffle SDS - Start hands on a hueco and up to a ramp. Traverse left to a hueco at the lip and dyno to another hueco up the face. Warm Up Area. Lonesome Electric... Climb the bulge left of the descent.. Mud Shark Climb to a slopey hueco.. Stranded In L.A. crimps to a slopey edge.. Loopzilla Climb the arete.. Elder Statesman Start with a good knob and climb to huecos. 0. Young Man Blues Climb to the scoop.. Dumbo Climb with slopey huecos.. Bitch Magnet Start with good huecos. umble In The Jungle Small slab.. Juju Wall Many variations.. irst Degree Burns Climb just right of the tree with good huecos.. Nice Girls Do Climb up to a good undercling and a hard top out. Bad landing. Walk up the slab and you'll get to an obvious boulder with a classic problem on it s
7 Warm Up Area The Lower Lost Boulders walk down to # and to # 0 Slab, 0, table table 0, table to Upper Lost Boulders.. Texas riendly Safe Sects +. The Proposition + Start with the big undercling under the roof and climb right of the arete.. Tension Deficit Disorder Start with the high crack and climb straight up. Bad landing.. My Tan SDS - Start with an undercling, go for some edges and traverse left to top out on the left side.. Bloody lapper Start with low edges, go for the undercling, edges and then the jug at the lip.. Lip Sync Start at the right end, traverse left on good flakes and up following the good holds.. Banana Juice V Start as Lip Sync but keep traversing left to climb Bloody lapper from the start.. Gloria Start with a -finger pocket and a crimp and climb right then up. 0. project really hard SDS - Climb the alcove from the bottom on bad crimps.. Pussy oute SDS - Climb right of the arete. Short, steep, long moves and good holds.. Ballbuster Start feet left of the cement wall. Jump to a good edge in the right-leaning crack and top out.. Dambuster Climb just right of the arete.. Hold The Mayo Climb behind the boulder.. attlesnake Left SDS - Start with the good edge and climb left of the crack and with the crack.. attlesnake ight Start with the low hueco and the crack. Left of the crack is off-route.
8 .... Closed to climbing, Power of Time SDS - Climb the crack. Why Suffer? SDS - Climb the short overhanging prow. Betacarotene SDS - Start on crimps and go for the hueco. hard SDS - Start on the big sloper and go left with the undercling.. medium SDS - Start as the previous one but move right and top out with the crack.. medium SDS - Start with bad right-facing slopers and climb straight up to finish in the crack as the previous one.. medium SDS - Climb the overhanging prow with right-facing huecos.. Dark Age SDS - Climb the steep prow to hueco, then go right in See Spot un.. See Spot un Start with a right-facing hueco and trend left for the first moves, then climb straight up the face. Bare oot on Sacred Ground SDS - Start at the bottom of the arete on small crimps and climb straight up without the hueco to finish on See Spot un. 0. ree Delivery + Climb the long face with huecos.. Tall Stack Start above the low roof and climb left of the leaning boulder.. Griddle Cake Start standing in the middle of a flat boulder and climb the face up and right.. Little Big Time + Climb in the middle of the column.. Do ries Go With That Shake Climb the very long face right of the arete. Big Time Boulder 0. or Adults Only Climb the arete if you dare.. Movers And Shakers + Climb the slab between the boulders.. Wife On Ice SDS - Start with the left undercling, trend left and finish right as Aging Celtics.. Aging Celtics SDS - Start with the right undercling and climb through flat edges.. Blubberhead Start low on the flake and climb the bulgy arete.. Ants Invasion +. Nobody Gets Out Of Here Alive to the Gymnasium 0. It's A Man's World Start with the crimper at the lip of the roof and climb the face.. Wild Turkey V Start left at the back of the roof and climb it with sidepulls and a big undercling, pull over and top out.. Dean's Bad Trip SDS - Start with a big pinch and climb the steep boulder., Dean's Bad Day V Eliminate - Use only the overhanging arete, the holds out right are off. Dean's Bad Hair Day V Eliminate - Use only the first crimp after the starting jugs (slopers under the roof and holds to the right are off) then go left to crimp near exit then toss.. The Dud SDS - Start with good incut crimps and climb the face. SDS -Start with a lightning hold left of a few rocks and climb the really short face. SDS -Start at the very end of the cave, climb the roof with big huecos and top out.. No One Gets Out of Jaxons Alive SDS - Start in Nobody... and traverse right to finish in Andrea.. Pull The Pin 0 Hueco Tanks The essential guide to American s bouldering Mecca. The new guidebook to Hueco Tanks bouldering. Hundreds of color photographs. Almost 00 problems described. Available from by Matt Wilder Climb the alcove.
9 Trac II Walk on the right side of the meadow. Near the end you'll pass a small "cliff" band and you'll see boulders on the top of the plateau, scramble up a small gully and you're in front of Daily Dick Dose. to the Gymnasium The Potatoes To # and 0, 0, chains 0.. The Used Blade Climb the obvious sharp flake. Babyface Climb the steep arete. The sit start is V. +. Dry Shave SDS - Start on the big flake and go to the pocket... Call Me Nick Climb on the right of the face. Trac II Climb the middle of the face. To the meadow. lying Marcel 0 SDS - Start on the small flake and traverse right to finish in Babyface. Need beta? Get ree Hueco.. Daily Dick Dose SDS - Start in the back of the cave on good edges. Climb the roof to the big undercling and pull over the lip.. resh Ass Start right of Daily Dick Dose on a good flake and go up to the undercling of the Daily Dick Dose.. 0. SDS - Climb the left side of the steep arete with small crimps. If you exit right it's. La Cucaracha Hueco and top out.. hard SDS - Start really low on a big hole, go for the left-facing sidepull then move right of the boulder and up to a flake.. Pump ull of Semen V SDS - Start as the previous one but go left to top out in The eject.. The eject Start with high holds above the lip, left of the boulder, and pull over to climb the slab.. Climb the arete.. Don't Know Squat SDS - Start with the horizontal crack and pull over the lip.. Squatter's ight SDS - Start really low in the cave, climb the roof and top out.. Loaded With Power 0 Overhanging face in the pit left of the chains. Go up and right on huecos.. Hidden Pleasure SDS - Start on the sloper, go to the gaston then the other sloper.. ight to the Pleasure SDS - Start as the previous one but traverse right without using the boulder behind.. Chain Gang SDS - Start in the alcove formed by boulders and climb the crack.. Women In Chains. Men In Chains Start with the flake and up the right-leaning hand crack.. Bawl and Chain + Good holds up the tall face.. SDS - Start with jugs at the lip and pull over the small roof.. The Hog SDS - feet in the corridor there is a spray paint on the right and an overhanging prow on the left. Slap your way up the prow. There is also a variation that goes right (). 0. Wild Card Start feet right of the previous one, standing on a small rock. Climb the highball face.. Various s Many problems up the Baby Baker boulder.. Mr. Potatohead Start with crimps, up to the hueco and up the face.. Mrs. Potatohead Start on really good crimps. Also a SDS.. rench rie SDS - Choose your holds and climb the steep arete of the leaning boulder.. High rie SDS - Start on big huecos and traverse left on more huecos. Top out right of the plant on but high wall.. Bitch Slap SDS - Start with a crimp in a hueco and climb left and then up on slopers.. O'Grady's. Start left hand with a good sidepull and climb the left side of the bulge. Suckah Inna Yucca + The middle line.. Cactus Casual Just left of the plant. 0. The Big Lips SDS - Climb along a thin crack.. Picatchou SDS - Climb with knobs and crimps.. Eye Gouger Climb with big huecos Southern Variation SDS - Start on jug, go right to sloper and climb left of the alcove without the right wall.. Blue's Clues SDS - Start on big hueco, traverse left and top out left of the crack. Without using the left boulders for your feet.
10 The Gymnasium The New Meadow (direction page 0) Access To get to the Gymnasium you can either walk in the corridor between The Potatoes and Big Time Boulder ( to find but you'll get squeezed at the end) or walk over the cliff on the right side of The Potatoes to walk down in the Gymnasium. squeezed exit., 0, 0 Access 0, 0. High And Mighty Climb the first line of big huecos. Move right at the top out. Almost a solo.. Plus Model + Start on the second line of huecos and move left to a few huecos far apart.. 0 Ounce King Climb up to the feet high hueco and climb with flakes.. Suck In Dick Start with juggy hueco and up the small scoop.. The William's Throw Start with left-facing holds, go to a high slopey hueco and traverse left and up on big huecos.. Punk unk Start feet left of the black streak, climb up to big huecos and traverse left to finish in The William's Throw.. Bad Axe Start as Punk unk but climb straight up to a scary top out.. Solid Pleasure The left line. exit. World Without Lawyers The middle line.. Jimmy Hats On Parade The right line.. The Belly Bomber Climb the huecos up to the high left-facing corner.. The Bellyful Of... Climb up to the wide hueco. Scary top out.. Continuous Discriminating Climb up and right with huecos.. On A Bender. hymes With ich. Start with the good edge feet high and climb right with small huecos to finish on the jug at the top of the streak.. Only The Little People... SDS- Start with huecos, lock off to more and traverse left to finish as hymes With ich. 0. Gag eflex 0. Celebrity Simulator Ledge, undercling, hueco.. eturn Business Lunge to the lip.. Start with huge holds under the horizontal crack and climb up and right to the scoop. Leapin' Lizards Start at the feet high step, between plants and find your way up the bulge and the scoop. Burn, Baby, Burn V Start as Leapin' Lizards but traverse left all the wall. Climb with sidepull along a thin crack.. Thumper Directions to New Meadow feet left of the jamed boulder. To get to the New Meadow walk up to the top of the chains and make a right. Look for the Mousie Adame graffiti on your left and a small awkward passage. Walk in there and you'll find this secret place The Chiken oute Start on sharp flakes and climb the tall face, left of the arete.. medium Sidepull left-hand and gaston right-hand. Go up the flake.. Penis Puss 0 Start on an undercling and go to the good flat hold just at the lip, traverse left for feet and up with the sidepull-undercling, then traverse back right to a big flake.. ate my Poo SDS - Start with a right-facing jug and climb with sharp crimps and huecos.. King Cobra SDS - Slap your way up the steep prow. Step back once on the flake.. udy V Start with the pinch, standing left of the boulder and move right to finish in King Cobra.. Losers Dyno medium SDS - Start on a rock with high undercling and climb the face without the scoop out left.. Everybody Wins SDS - Start with a big sidepull-pinch and traverse right and up in the middle of the face.. Schwerer Gustov 0 SDS - Start on the lowest sidepull slopers and do not use the pedestal for your feet. 0. Shower Cap V/ Start in wide undercling under the roof, go out via slopers and crimps and exit right, not direct (), up steep face.. Speed Bump SDS - Start low on the prow in the roof, climb it to the sloper and top out.. The Pudgy Pussack SDS - Start on the very left undercling and go out right to the big hueco.. Bear Can Traverse V Start way out left and traverse right. inishes by touching the beer can in the crack without using the opposing wall.. Shrimp ishing SDS - Start with a good crimp right-hand and climb the middle of the face.. Mothertrucker SDS - Start with the right-face sidepull and go up to the undercling.. Beach Time SDS - Start with the arete and traverse left and top out in the scoop.. Gumby Traverse SDS - Traverse right with the crack all the way to the jug and top out.. Gumby Direct SDS - Start as the previous one but go straight in the hueco. 0. Money Sucks SDS - Start in the low hueco and climb by the thin crack.. German Hatery Climb just left of the crack.. ici's SDS - The hand crack.. Blackmail Climb to the big sidepull and top out.. Sharma Problem. Look At Me. Meadow Dyno. The Sweat Shop. La Delicate SDS - Start just left of the bush on two sidepull, go up to the crimp. The left side of the slab The Two Stars Arete. SDS - Start on the left-facing sidepull and climb the arete.. Anal Intruder #0 SDS - Start low on horizontal pinches and climb through cool features and top out. (Also known as Lobster Claws). 0 Start in Lobster, go left to the bad undercling and go out left. Climb the dihedral. Start on the flakes and climb the highball crack. Start on huecos and climb up and left. Also a variation straight from the undercling. 0. Spooky Start with eyes and climb with jugs all the way up if you dare.. Mandalahaha The right side of the slab which is not a slab at all.
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