CAPE ST. FRANCIS SEASIDE BOULDERING IN THE INDEPENDENT STATE OF THE EASTERN CAPE. 1st Edition NIEL MOSTERT

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1 CAPE ST. FRANCIS SEASIDE BOULDERING IN THE INDEPENDENT STATE OF THE EASTERN CAPE 1st Edition NIEL MOSTERT

2 On the Cover: Martin Renz on Spongebob (7A), The Cove Cape St. Francis Seaside Bouldering in the Independent State of the Eastern Cape 1st Edition Dec 2006 Author: Niel Mostert Queries and Info Contact: Dricus Bezuidenhout Cell: Contact: Morne van der Mescht Cell: CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 4 THE HISTORY 5 ACCOMODATION 5 IMPORTANT STUFF 5 KEY TO USING THIS GUIDE 6 ROAD MAP 7 THE COVE 8 SEASIDE AREA 13 THE TREASURE CHEST 1

3 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The Author would like to thank the following climbers: Morne van der Mescht Jessica Jeffries Martin Renz Dricus Bezuidenhout Marisa Steyn The best climber in the world is the one having the most fun -Alex Lowe You guys completely personify this quote and your enthusiasm to explore and develop this area has led to the creation of an awesome bouldering area in a unique setting. This guide is only a start, there is still huge potential left for this area. Many thanks for the dedication, input and sharp eyes for some great problems. I m extremely lucky to have had the opportunity to get to know and climb with you all. Keep the spirit alive. Complaints Department Niel Mostert Dec 2006 To the best of the author s knowledge, none of the problems featured in this guide have been formerly climbed,named and graded. Please direct any complaints to the given Contact Persons (inside cover page). THE HISTORY For many years there have been bits of information floating around amongst the Eastern Cape climbers about bouldering some of them had done at Cape St Francis whilst on holiday there with family, driving around, etc. It seems though, that no-one had ever gone and done proper exploring and developing. There were also rumours of early bouldering there back in the 80 s, but again no-one could supply any concrete information. A rainy day in Port Elizabeth in September 2006 saw myself, Dricus, Morne, Jessica and Martin drive there to go and have a look. What started out as a rainy rest day quickly turned into an awesome day s bouldering, with all the current problems in The Cove area opened in a day. This of course was all the motivation needed and the Seaside area and Treasure Chest area were developed in the following months. Facing the ocean, the lighthouse on the left and the Treasure Chest area on the right now form the borders of the current developed bouldering area. This is not because there is nothing else to climb, it s simply because it s human nature to get lazy. More exploring will no doubt reveal some excellent problems. The town s history I know little of, unfortunately. I m sure, however that exploring this beautiful little seaside village on your rest days will be well worth it. Accommodation There is a caravan park in Cape St. Francis as well as several guest houses in the area. You can also find a place to stay in Humansdorp or Jeffreys Bay. 4 5

4 IMPORTANT STUFF ROAD MAP 1. NO LITTERING!!! ANYWHERE!!! EVER!!! 2. The climbing areas all form part of the Seal Point Nature Reserve. This reserve is open to the public with no entrance/ exit control and there are no access issues yet. Please don t compromise access and keep your impact minimal, eg clean off chalk and tickmarks when you re finished and DO NOT LITTER. 3. Parking is generally safe, but as a precaution rather don t leave your valuables in the car. 4. Have good sunscreen and a hat in summer, there is very little shade. 5. Mind the tide! Some of the areas are on rocks right next to the water s edge. Don t let your stuff get washed away when you re not looking. 6. The rock in some areas may on the odd occasion be schlauky depending on the wind direction and whether the rock is facing the ocean or not. Just shop around until you find some good dry rock. 7. Be creative and open some new problems. 8. Please notify the contact persons (inside cover page) when any of the projects or new problems are opened so that the guide can be updated. KEY TO USING THIS GUIDE 1. All problems marked SS are sit-start, otherwise start from a standing position. 2. The markers in this guide are only for general guidance. The aim is to show where you start, more or less which direction you head and where you end. Use your common sense to find the right (and best) holds. SS = Sit start TO = Top Out There are several roads leading into Humansdorp from the N2. Please consult a national roadmap for better guidance. Coming into Humansdorp from Jeffreys Bay s side, turn left at the culture museum and go down the main street. Turn left again at the T-junction in front of the caravan park and keep going straight (ie. no turn-offs) all the way into Cape St Francis. Once there refer to map above to locate the climbing parking areas. 6 7

5 THE COVE From the car park area follow the path to the left for a short distance. Look for the footpath leading off to the right past a bench and rubbish bin. Follow this footpath past some big rocks coming up on the left and scramble up onto the flattop rock band on the right. The Cove is now on your right. Find a place to scramble down to the Cove. There is an easier scramble-down if you keep going straight to the end of the rock band, scramble down and U-turn back to The Cove. 1. Open Project. Climb the arête. 2. Fishfinger (6B) SS. Do second move to good hold, then big move to crack and climb to TO. 3. (6A) SS. Climb the rail diagonally up R to TO. 4. Sea Saw (6B) SS. Start on good hold on corner, throw to rail and climb to TO. 5. Seahorse (6C+) SS. Start on good holds, follow crimps and small holds on face to TO. 6. Seahorses in Flight (7A+) SS. Start as for Seahorse, climb to slot then dyno to TO on block. 8 9

6 1. Aerial (6B+) Climb the arête. 2. Spongebob (7A+) Get up on good foothold, step across L and climb face. Don t use holds on arête. 3. Open Project. Get up on good foothold, climb face straight up the middle to TO. 4. Sharky (6B+) Climb to big holds halfway up and go straight up to TO. 1. Blubber (6B+) SS. Start using big crack hold under small roof. Climb out and over bulge to TO. Don t use boulder on left for feet. 2. Open Project SS. Start as deep in under roof as possible and climb out to TO. 3. Crayfish (7A/7A+) SS. Start under the roof on two incut pockets, a deeper one on the right and a crimpier one on the left. Climb out and up to TO

7 SEASIDE AREA 1. Starfish (7A) SS. Start on crimpy dinnerplate hold quite far in, climb out to left and TO. Bad landing if you fall close to the TO, have spotters ready. 2. Sea Breeze (6C+) SS. Start on crimpy dinnerplate hold quite far in climb straight out to TO. 3. Orca (6C) SS. Climb the crack to TO. 4. Foghorn (6C) SS. Start far back as possible on good obvious holds and climb out to TO. Facing the ocean from the Seaside Parking Area, the Pirate Boulders are the obvious big boulders that you can see in the distance to your left. The Spelunker Boulder is the sharp pointed boulder sticking out in front of you. Head straight past it to find the Redrum boulder and then refer to the map above to locate the rest of the boulders in this area

8 Pirate Boulders (1 of 2) Pirate Boulders (2 of 2) 1. Smoo (6B+) SS. Start on L side of cave in smooth crack. Move to good hold on roof lip and find holds on face above roof to climb to TO. 2. Smee (6B+) SS. Start on R side of cave in smooth crack. Move to holds on lip of roof and find holds on face above roof to climb to TO. 3. Musket (6A+) Dyno from big hold on corner straight up to TO. 4. Siren Song (6B+) SS. Start in crack under little roof, move up to good holds on face and climb straight up to TO. 5. Open Project SS. Start in crack under small roof, move up to slopers on face and climb to TO. 1. Sex on the Rocks (6A+) SS. Climb the crack to TO. 2. (6B) SS. Climb the face to TO. 3. Aye Aye Captain (6C) Dyno. Start on holds in small crack, dyno up to big crack and climb over top to TO

9 Redrum Boulder Squidguts Boulders (1 of 2) 1. Eish? (6A+) SS. Start on gong flake looking dinnerplate hold that looks like it will break. Use the backwall for your feet. Another One? (6B+) SS. Start on gong flake looking dinnerplate hold that looks like it will break. Don t use the backwall for your feet. Use only cracks and holds on roof for hands and feet until final section after roof ends, where you can use whatever. 2. Captain of the Barrel (6A+) SS. Start far back on underclings and climb out. 3. Make it a Double (6A+) SS. Start far back on underclings and climb out. 4. Staying Sober (6A+) SS. Start far back on underclings and climb out. 1. Cleaning Act (6A+) Start with right hand on good hold, make big throw to arête and climb to TO 2. Squidguts (6C) SS. Start on small crimpy holds in vertical crack and climb up to slopey rail and straight up to TO. 3. Swing the Lead (5+) Climb straight up to TO 4. Pirates don t Hug (6B) Hug the arête and the crack all the way to TO. 5. Bow Wave (6C) SS. Climb the arête

10 Squidguts Boulders (2 of 2) Roof Boulder 1. The Flying Dutchman (6B) Dyno from pinch in horizontal crack (left) and three-finger pocket (right) straight up to lip. Be careful of big rock on your left if you don t latch the dyno. 2. Ghost Ship (6A+) Traverse from good holds on right to approx middle of face, then do big move up to lip. 3. Walking the Plank (6A) Traverse from good holds on right all the way across face to end on boulder. Open Project SS. Start on crimps, do big move to smaller crimps near lip and climb over to TO

11 World s Edge Boulder THE TREASURE CHEST From the parking area follow the footpath to the right across the grass and meet up with the dirt track. Follow the dirt track a short distance until seeing a small footpath coming up on the left. Take this footpath and keep a look out on the ocean s side for the rocks shown in the picture, where the Treasure Chest Area is. Running to You (6B+) SS. Start on fairly good holds, climb face to TO

12 1. Black Pearl (7B) SS. Start on crimpy rail, throw out up and left to incut hold on lip of roof. Look for holds on face slightly more to left to climb to TO. 1. Zirbit (7A/7A+) SS. Start on good edges and crimps, do big move up to slopey rail and continue straight up to TO. 2. Shimmer (6B) Start straight below gully on top of boulder and climb up to gully. 2. Black Pearl Ext. (7B+) SS. Start on low crimp hold, up to crimpy rail, move further left on crimpy rail, then out and up left to incut hold on lip of roof. Look for holds on face slightly more to left to climb to TO

13 1. Old Hob Traverse (7A+) SS. Start on crimpy hold on face near corner, traverse the slopey rail to L and TO on the side. 2. Open Project. SS. Start as for 1, but stop halfway on rail and dyno straight to TO. 3. Open Project SS. Project. Climb the arête. 4. Old Hob Dyno (7A) Dyno from rail to TO. Arg (6B+) SS. Start on big hold in crack, climb up and over bulge onto slab to TO

14 But risks must be taken because the greatest hazard in life is to risk nothing. The person who risks nothing, does nothing, has nothing, is nothing. He may avoid suffering and sorrow, but he cannot learn, feel, change, grow or live. Chained by his servitude he is a slave who has forfeited all freedom. Only a person who risks is free. The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; and the realist adjusts the sails. William Arthur Ward