2017/08/27. Derek Marshall 1

Transcription

1 0/0/ Derek Marshall

2 General St Francis is a seaside fun-in-the-sun holiday resort town. Bouldering is part of the fun, keep it fun! Directions & Map Get smart, use Google to get there! The boulders at St Francis are spread out, become wet, are affected by tides, have lots of easy problems & are simply not that great. It is what it is! St Francis is not Rocklands. If you are looking for Rocklands, simply Google & drive. Please don t come to St Francis & grumble. Grumbling makes the boulders wetter. History Apparently the first climbers to boulder at Cape St Francis were Rob Mac Geoghegan, Brad Sharp & Kim Cadle, in the early 0s. Kim s parents had a house on the sea front & some fun was had fiddling on easy traverses & problems. Access There are no restrictions to access or bouldering. Accommodation Cape St Francis is a beach holiday resort town. There are tons of holiday cottages, B nbs & beach house type accommodation on offer. Google! Camping is only in St Francis Bay & Jeffrey's Bay. Google! Keith James consistently visited the boulders through the 0, 0 & the 000s. In the early 000s the rumours of boulders lead to Morne & Jessica van der Mescht, Martin Renz, Neil Mostert & Dricus Bezuidenhout taking a drive out to investigate. This became a period of frequent use & most of the harder problems were pushed. Much appreciation & thanks goes to Neil Mostert who wrote the first guide, this was in 00. Random Hazards & Environmental Points Please pick up as much litter as you can, yes other peoples litter. Let s makethis-a-thing to do Please try to stay on the paths & don t damage any vegetation. Remember check the tides & wind direction. Crime is relatively low in St Francis, but still take the usual precautions, like don t leave valuables in plain sight. Have fun! Interest during the mid 000s lead to a visit by top South African boulderers, Julia Chen & Marijus Šmigelskis. They added Queen of the West (C), Hob Scotch (B+) & various As, the hardest problems at Cape St Francis. Neil Mostert s guide only recorded the harder more prominent problems, so in 0 this bumbling scribe decided to record a more complete & up-to-date version with all the other fun (easy) problems included. STAR RATINGS Classic problem Great problem Good problem ABBREVIATIONS & SYMBOLS BS Bum Start SS Stand Start LH Left Hand RH Right Hand Highball - high possibly dangerous problem Lowball - small low problem 0/0/ Derek Marshall

3 Parking Parking Soft Page Treasure Chest Page Picnic Pebbles Page Cemetery Gates Page Easy Living Page Parking Parking Queen of the West Page Squid Guts Page Spelunker Page Red Heart Page 0 Pirate Page The Cove Page 0/0/ Derek Marshall

4 Sirena Page Julia Page 0/0/ Týr Page Ship Wreck Page Treasure Chest Page Maori Ave Parking Derek Marshall

5 / / 0 0 Walk-in Seahorses in Flight A+ BS as for Seahorse, climb to slot then dyno to top out on block. Seahorse C+ BS on good holds, follow crimps & small holds on face. Killing Machine A+ BS, then slight R to corner. Sea Saw B BS on good hold on corner, throw to rail & climb to top out. Will of the Strong C Iron Heart C BS, diagonally R to corner, top out. BS on RH jug & LH on crimp, up into diagonal rail. Traverse L on jugs & rails. Through the open book & then low through the blank face & arete. Top out in gully crack. Fish Finger B BS, second move to good hold, then big move to crack & climb to top out. Night Witches BS, up prominent crack. Sabaton B BS, then diagonally R to top out in crack 0 Project? Up the blunt arête. Sharky B SS, climb to big holds halfway up & go straight up to top out. Bullets Fly BS, up prominent layback open book. Commemorate the Fallen B+ SS in the open book, traverse low L through the blank face, around the arête & up the gully crack. Return to Forever C BS then directly up the slab to top out L of Bullets Fly. Spongebob A+ Get up on good foothold, step across L & climb face. Don t use holds on arête. Aerial B SS, climb the arête. Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall The Cove

6 / / 0 0 Walk-in Aerial B SS, climb the arête. Soldier of Three Armies C Lying-down-start in nice jug in roof of undercut. Up into a crimp, then top out R into crack. Smoking Snakes C+ Lying-down-start in jam crack that runs out of undercut. Up crack moving L into further crack. Crayfish A BS under the roof on two in-cut pockets, a deeper one on the R & a crimpier one on the L. Climb out & up to top out. 0 The Art of War B BS on match crimp, with foot in perfect round pocket deep under the roof. Directly up to top out. Inmate C BS in oposing finger jam & side pull. Up on jug arête. Vag Farmer C BS on jugs, rail R, with lots of heel hooks all the way R to stop on the off-width diagonal crack. Mild Steel BS under roofed notch. Break out of roof L & top out. Mussel Licker BS under roofed notch. At roof rail R & break out of roof R. Top out. Krieg Panzer B BS under roofed notch, break L below roof & traverse all the way L. Its a huge pumpy traverse. Blubber B BS using big crack hold under small roof. Climb out & over bulge to top out. Don t use boulder on L for feet. Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall The Cove

7 0 / 0 Blubber B BS using big crack hold under small roof. Climb out & over bulge to top out. Don t use boulder on L for feet. Resist & Bite B BS, move L into wide crack system. Foghorn C BS far back as possible on good obvious holds & climb out to top out. Far From the Fame C+ BS deep under undercut, then break out R, up on jugs, then top out. 0 Orca B+ BS, in the double crack with your feet on the deep back wall. Directly out staying in the crack Sea Breeze C+ BS on crimpy dinner plate hold quite far in, climb straight out to top out. Pornotopia C BS on crimpy dinner plate hold quite far in, climb out, then move L, then directly up middle of prow. Starfish A BS on crimpy dinner plate hold quite far in, climb out to L & top out. Dead Men Running C BS on slopper, move R & up into prominent juggy crack break. Fuck the MCAS A BS on the far L, up overhang on jugs, break out L onto ledge. Panzer Krieg B BS on on far L, above a bad landing. Traverse all the way R into notch corner. Bad landing if you fall. Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall The Cove

8 / / 0 Tainted Love BS on far L, rail R, through V notch & up crack on RH side of V notch. Goodbye Ruby Tuesday B BS on far L, rail R, through V notch & continue railing, around the corner. Up crack on the far RH side. Children of the Revolution BS on far L, then directly up crack above. Lady of the Slain BS, then directly up prominent crack above. Smoo B+ BS on LH side of cave. Move to good hold on roof lip & find holds on face above roof. Top out. Smee B+ BS on RH side of cave. Move to holds on lip of roof & find holds on face above roof. Top out. Musket A+ BS into horizontal, up on bald blunt arête. Siren Song B+ BS in crack under little roof, move up to good holds, then diagonally R to top out. Another Fallen Brother C BS, into rail, bounce to next rail, then top out through a bald section. 0 Hell Hath No fury C SS on rails, directly up through smooth spot. Top out. Iron Will B BS on far R, rail L on rails above roof, round the corner, through the V notch & up the crack on LHS of V notch. Warrior Still A BS below arête. Up the arête, only using the arête, not the stuff to L & R of arête. Set Us Free C BS on middle of small face, top out. Destiny B BS below short arête on R. Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall Pirate

9 0 0 Marginalization A BS far L, traverse low, the whole dam thing, then top out far R. Ready for War BS, up easy prominent crack system. Project? BS, up double crack on blunt arête. Sex on the Rocks BS, up easy prominent crack system. Kill the Light BS, up easy prominent crack system. Accept the Blame BS, up easy prominent crack system. Under the Blade B BS in lay away, move R into rails, then reach over the smooth spot to a high rail. Top out. Paralysis Through Analysis C BS on rail, up into pocket then a quick move to rail above & top out. Aye Aye Captain C Dyno. Start on holds in small crack, dyno up to big crack & climb over top to top out. 0 Energy of Change A BS, into rail, then up to pocket. Top out. The Price A BS below arête. Up the arête then top out. Note the bad fall. Make sure you have enough pads. Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall Pirate

10 / Captain of the Barrel A+ BS far back on under clings & climb out. Eish! A+ Uush! B+ BS on gong flake looking dinner plate hold that looks like it will break. Use the back wall for your feet. BS on gong flake looking dinner plate hold that looks like it will break. Don t use the back wall for your feet. Use only cracks & holds on roof for hands & feet until final section after roof ends, where you can use whatever. Make it a Double A+ BS far back on under clings & climb out. Pay Back The Doubles BS on jug deep under the overhang, out into jug rail, then topout Staying Sober A+ BS far back on under clings & climb out. Clever & Strong A Crouch-start on R, rail L using slopers on top & basically any means. Wibly-wobbly SS on top level, up easy break. Strong Juice C BS on lower level jug rail. Up then out R on nose. Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall Red Heart 0

11 PE A Sea C CT / B Spelunker can at best, be described as a low dark tunnel under some boulders. It s more of a hole! It is truly quite grim & awful! But there are some challenging problems down there waiting for the next retched manimal. Creatures of the Under World C BS far back & as deep as you can on slopers on C. Come out of the darkness in direction of PE. Raven in the Night C+ BS on good jugs on A, fight your way out of the tunnel between B & C. The Dark Ride A BS on jug diagonal rail, move into the tunnel on B. Fight, claw, scratch, gouge, jam shit it is quite desperate. Don t pop a hernia! Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall Spelunker

12 / Retribution A BS on sloper & side pull jug. Up easy ramp. Sabotage B BS on slopers. Up easy ramp. Bow Wave C BS. Climb the arête. Pirates Don t Hug B Hug the arête & the crack all the way to top out. Vengence - SS. Up easy prominent open book. Swing the Lead Climb straight up to top out. Revenge A BS on side pull & sloper bulge. Top out. Squidguts C BS. Start on small crimpy holds in vertical crack & climb up to sloped rail, then straight up to top out. The Gathering A BS, up RH crack, at the diagonal sloping rail move out L. 0 Resistance SS, up prominent LH crack. Cleaning Act A+ Start with RH on good hold, make big throw to arête & climb to top out. Walking the Plank A Traverse from good holds on R all the way across face to end on boulder. Ghost Ship A+ Traverse from good holds on R to approximately middle of face, then do big move up to lip. Flying Dutchman B Dyno from pinch in horizontal crack L & -finger pocket R straight up to lip. Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall Squid Guts

13 Scream SS up easy ramp. Last Runaway BS, up easy ramp. Fallen Under BS below prominent crack. Slaves of the New Order BS below easy arête. Up arête, moving R near the top. Queen of the West C BS on crimp, top out directly. Eyes of My Maker BS below break. Hero of the World BS below R trending diagonal crack. Up the crack. Golgotha BS below R trending diagonal crack. Break out L. In The Raw BS on horn, into easy R rail. Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall Queen of the West

14 Razors Edge BS. Straight up to easy rail. Traverse all the way L on rail, then top out. All Guns Blazing BS on pinnacle, with feet to the R, after start only use pinnacle for feet. Fire Your Guns BS directly up. No Satisfaction BS directly up. Black Ice BS directly up. Desperation BS directly up. Lost in Paradise BS, move slightly L at the top. Easy Living Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall

15 0 Running to You B+ BS on fairly good holds, climb face to top out. My Temple SS on jugs, top out. Fight A BS LH in hole, RH on the arête. Up onto arête & top out. Strange World B BS RH in hole, up L to rail. Top out. Blood Religion SS, up easy break. Spiritial Dictator SS on sloper, up arête. Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall Cemetery Gates

16 0 Reverend BS on jug on LH end, rail R on slopers Incomplete BS, up crack break. Crucfied for My Sins SS, up very blunt arête. So Unreal SS, up on crimps. My Misery SS, on sloppers, directly up on rails to top out. Lock The Door BS, up crack break. Memories Still Remain C BS on lower step. Up the arête. Pass The Cemetery Gates C SS, up juggy arête. Cemetery Gates A BS on rail cracks. Up on slopers. 0 I Will Remember SS, up ramp. Took My Youth SS, up crack break. New Found Joy BS in jam crack rail, up easy break. Reverse My Life C BS in jam rail with back to the back breaker boulder. Up using the underclings. Complex Years BS, up ramp. When She Died BS, using crack, up the arête. Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall Cemetery Gates

17 Under the Blade SS around the corner on sloping pockets. Traverse R to the other side. Can be done either way. SMF Traverse A BS in fist crack, move L into rail. Trend L to top out. Tears of Retribuition B+ BS just L of blunt arête, start on pockets. Up into prominent two finger pocket. Your Demise A BS on crimp, up into pockets & top out. Games We Gota Play A BS on crimps & side pulls. Top out directly. Project? BS just R of the arête prow. Directly up to top out. Project? BS under arête prow. Top out. Picnic Pebbles Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall

18 Soft Cock BS with heal hook. Out to the L & top out. Pimps Pleasure BS in rail, directly up & top out. Zero Tolorance C Lying down start under roof, over the lip & mantle on to the top. Soft Sector Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall

19 Zirbit A+ BS on good edges & crimps, do big move up to sloped rail & continue straight up to top out. Shimmer B SS straight below gully on top of boulder & climb up to gully. Sun King BS on side pull, up diagonaly L. Merchants of Air C BS under edge, up & over the top moving a bit R. PE 0-0 Sea CT Treasure Chest Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall

20 0 Pearl Jam A BS on low crimps, then move directly to the top out. Black Pearl B Black Pearl Ext B+ BS on low crimp hold, up to crimpy rail, move further L on crimpy rail, then out & up L to in cut hold on lip of roof. Look for holds on face slightly more to L to climb to top out. BS on crimpy rail, throw out up & L to in-cut hold on lip of roof. Look for holds on face slightly more to L to climb to top out. Holding Ground BS in hole on rounded rail, top out directly. March Ready BS, into easy crack. Top out. 0 Arg B+ BS on big hold in crack, climb up & over bulge onto slab to top out. Sick Mother Fucker BS, into easy crack. Top out. Against Our Will A BS under jagged arête, rail L as far as possible, then top out. You re an SMF! A BS on rounded pocket, boost for rounded holds near the top. A if you are short. Easier if you are tall. Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall Treasure Chest 0

21 0 Knobbed - BS up lay away. Sweet. Old Hob Dyno A Dyno from rail to top out. Old Hob Traverse A+ BS on jug-ish hold on face near corner, traverse the sloppy rail to L & top out on the side. Hob Scotch B+ BS as for, but stop halfway on rail & dyno straight to top out. Old Hob Arete A BS on jug-ish hold. Up & move R into jug arête, onto arête. Top out. Hobbled A BS on RHS of arête.top out over steepest part of the arête. Don t use the boulder to the R. 0 Like a Knife in the Back - BS on jugs. Up on jugs. Kingdom of Rage - BS on lay-away. Top out. Nasty Dwarf Porn A Low-sit-start on slopers, bounce out directly. Treasure Chest Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall

22 Treasure Chest Dreams of a Nation - BS, up easy crack system. Welcome to the Abandoned Land A BS on the R, rail all the way L, then top out up the crack system. Try to Delight BS on rail, top out directly. Politics & Bullshit BS on rail, top out directly. Survival of the Fattest BS on rail, top out directly. We re not Gona Fake It BS on rail, top out directly. He Said She Said BS on rail, top out directly. Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall Treasure Chest

23 Julia God Loves Rock & Roll A BS on crimps, feet deep in small cave, rail L & out via side pull. My God Given Right BS on crimps, feet deep in small cave, directly out. Sinking My Claws BS on side pull, into undercling. Into Your Flesh BS on rail, directly up. Looters BS on crimps, directly up. Breaking the Law SS on crimps. Directly up. Fear of Finding the Dead C BS on crimps, up on middle crack. Remember the Dead SS on rail directly up. Maredon SS on rail, move out R & up. Shipwreck Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall

24 Salvage BS on arete, follow the arête up. God of Wrath A BS on slopers, up over ramp moving slightly L. Wicked Game B BS on crimp rail, out slightly L. Merciless Onslaught A BS below rounded overhanging arête. Highway Star BS on rail, up onto jug. Shipwreck Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall

25 0 Faded Hope C BS,.m R of the arête, directly up. Broken Dream C BS, under the arête, directly up. Lost in This Life BS, RH side pull & LH jam. Directly up. Believing the Lie BS on slopy rail, directly up. Silent Scream BS, up diverging cracks. Tears Desend BS, RH on pinch, directly up. Here You Stand BS on rail, directly up. 000 Frozen Tears BS on rail, up blunt arête. Hammer of Thor A+ Start far R, traverse L to where boulders meet, top out without using the other boulder. 0 Frozen Winter C BS on crimp rail, top out. Before the Truth BS in jam crack, traverse R to where boulders meet. No top out. Forsake me Now BS in jam crack, slightly R & top out. Týr Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall

26 Darkness Lies Inside C BS on crimp. Top out. Days & Nights C BS on crimp. Top out. Nothing More A BS on R, traverse low all the way R. Top out on slab. Gone C BS with side pull, directly up. The Great Forever C BS with side pull, directly up. Like a Dream A+ BS under arête, directly up. Julia B BS using side pull. Directly up. Julia Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall

27 0 My Mind s Eye BS, RH on fat horn, directly up. Metal Symphony BS on rail, directly up. Ride the Night BS in jam rail, directly up. Downfall BS on rail, directly up. Euphoria BS on low rail, directly up. Seven Keys & Doors A BS, LH on side pull crimp & RH on pinch, directly up. The Last Call C BS under black roof. Move out L, directly up. The Other Side A BS on low ledge rail on R, traverse low all the way L. 0 The Path to Decay BS on low ledge rail, directly up. 0 Voices Within C BS on arete side pull. Traverse R without using the top. Save Me From Myself A BS on L & RH side pulls. Directly up. Lost in Life BS on slopy crimps. Directly up. Lethargica BS on RH side pull. Directly up. Sirenia A Sister Nightfall BS on rail, directly up. SS on the L, traverse R with feet about m above ground. Keep traversing around the RH corner. Seven Sirens & a Silver Tear Crouch start on rail crimp, directly up. A Dream That was Mine A SS just L of boulder. Directly up on thin crimps. Sail Away My Little Sister A SS on boulder, thin moves, directly up. To the Other Side A SS on crimps just R of boulder, directly up. 0 Lights are Fading SS on diagonal crimp, directly up. Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall Sins Are Far Away BS, up crack. Time Slips Away BS on rail, just R of crack. Ride the Night BS in jam rail, directly up on jugs. Sirenia

28 0 Back of My Mind BS then up the arete. No Key C BS on RH side pulls, directly up. Don t use the huge flake. You Don t Care C BS in crack. Top out. Life Fades Away C BS in crack. Top out. Pay the Keeper A BS low under cling jug, top out. Mercyful Fate BS with side pull, directly up. 0 Set My Mind Free BS & finger crack, up over rails. Hope you read to the end Mountain Club stoogies Hi MSCA stoogies, I hope you didn t read the whole guide, it s a lekker waste of time Nee! Now its time to get out there & have some outdoor fun of your own instead of spending your time on bullshit & politics. Updated 0/0/ Derek Marshall Sirenia