A popular area with Joker s Wall offering steep and fingery problems for the strong with a few other good bits here and there.
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1 Cubic Area Brimham A popular area with Joker s Wall offering steep and fingery problems for the strong with a few other good bits here and there. Parking and approach Easily accessible in 2 minutes from the main National Trust car park at Brimham Rocks or park further up the road towards Hare Heads and wander down the road. From the main car park walk down the hill on one of the paths. As the path forks head rightwards. Cubic Block is pretty hard to miss and the clue is in the name. Grid Ref SE SE Introduction Good landings, one pad will do, with just the occasional dodgy landing where a second pad is of use. Joker s Wall is as close to rainproof as anything in Yorkshire. The Cubic Amphitheatre problems seep a little but come back into condition fairly quickly and are usually climbable year round. Some of the other bits can be green in the winter and a brush may be useful on less climbed problems. Cubic Amphitheatre A few classics in the middle grades with one or two test pieces in the mix. The first obvious features you come to if approaching from the car park are a couple of smaller blocs on the left, detached from the main bloc and split by a gully. Moby Dick Font 6A The, whale-shaped arête from a sitter. Tha She Blows. The Fridge 7B+ An eliminate on the arête of Moby Dick from a sitter. No breaks cracks or the whale eye pocket powerful stuff. Dave Cowl On the right side of the gully looking inwards are 3 cracks all from sitters. Left Crack Font 6B Central Crack Font 6C Right Crack Font 6B
2 Pocket Drop Traverse Font 7A+ *** Classic. Start in the gully again, traverse the break rightwards to the arête. Drop to the pocket, stay low around the arete and gain the lip which is traversed to the end. Cubic Left Font 6C The left arête. Cubic Right Font 6A+ takes the right arête from a stand Cubic Font 6B+ *** A cracking problem, a sit down start using the arete leads slightly right to a huge jug, rock over or pop for the top holds. Font 6A+ from a stand and still very worthwhile. Cubic Traverse Font 7A Start up Cubic then traverse the lip rightwards to the right arête. Or traverse down the lip from the right arête and finish up Cubic at the same grade. Snapdragon Font 7C Climb the roof right of Cubic to finish with a rightwards lip trip. Soup Dragon Font 7B+ Takes the overlap that forms the right side of the Cubic Amphitheatre. Undercuts and a long reach lead hopefully to the break. Clanger Font 7A Gain the hanging arête and head for the break. Poor landing. Small Wall Behind the Cubic Amphitheatre and on the right when approaching from the car park, this bloc gives a couple of worthwhile problems in need of a clean. Little Rib Font 5+ Tricky wall 6A
3 Next bloc on the right has Short Arête Short Arête Font 4 The arête on its right hand side. After short arete on the right is. Slanting Crack Mantle Font 5 Mantle onto the ledge. Slippery Slab Font 5+ Clue is in the name. Slanting Crack Font 5 U Tube The slab opposite the back of Cubic Block contains a strange tube. The U Tube Font 7C Start at the back and press out until you can pinch both sides of the tube. from here some will be able to gain the break others will decide that their life is already complete.
4 Joker s Wall Behind the Cubic amphitheatre is a slightly impending wall. Some great classics and a wad test traverse. The weak amongst us will soon be scrabbling for footholds, the strong claiming it is all 6B. Joker's Wall Traverse Font 7A+ A proper arm warmer. Starting left on the arete, traverse the break using pockets a large flake to finish up the wall using the big undercut. Joker's Arête Font 6A The left arête up to the second break. Joker's Wall Left Font 6a Right of the arête, big moves to the second break. Without the undercuts is No Joke Font 6C+
5 Joker's Wall Font 6A To the break above the big hole. Joker's Pocket Font 7A Powerful moves on pinches to the big pocket and on, high. Joker's Reach Font 6B ** Starting sat with hands in the flake, take the good edges to the jugs just left of the top of Minion's Way. Slapstick Font 7C+ *** Start sat right of the flake, move upwards to the lip using holds. Mike Grey Joker's Reachier Font 6C Start right of Slapstick, follow edges up and right to the jugs just left of the top of Minion's Way. Minion's Way Font 5 Sit-start jam the crack. Fred's Under Tens 7C+ Left of Jokers Flake is a rounded wall with a broken hold. Maybe unrepeated since the hold broke. Joker's Flake ** Font 6C+ Climb the rightwards with a big move to slopers. 7A+ from a sit Upside Your Head Font 8A The wall right of the arête to the slanting ledge. Oops Font 8A Follow Upside Your Head but head right to the pocket.
6 Upside Pocket Font 7A Crimp up and left into the big pocket. Joker s Rib Font 6B+ SDS pockets and flake to the capping roof. Beatnik Font 5+ Climb the roof crack in the cave. Overhanging Prow Font 4 Again in the cave use both cracks, drop at the nose. Ironside Font 8A+ *** Mighty right-to-left traverse. Start under the roof, climb left (no roof crack) keep going using low pockets and care to keep your feet up, round the arête, finally merely reverse Joker s Wall Traverse before collapsing in a heap. Andy Swann
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