1/ Clatterjack 7a * SDS under right side of the roof. Out to lip, left to the arête and up before stepping back right to finish

Transcription

1 14 Crow Crag The potential of Crow Crag has gradually come to light though lines still remain unexplored. Despite the woodland location the excellent rock dries pretty quickly and there are some strong lines. The crag takes the form of a number of blocks interspersed with taller walls. Navigating between them can be tricky due to the preponderance of holly trees. It is usually sensible to drop low and climb back up to the block you are seeking. The crag is on private land and no right of access has been negotiated. Nevertheless climbers have operated here for many years with no complaint from the landowner. The good behaviour that has made this possible should be continued. obvious feature. Parking for two cars (max) can be found 200m south of High Pasture Farm on Hartwith Bank, reached by either driving up from Summerbridge or down from the junction below Brimham rocks. Please park sensibly and don t block the road. A stone style leads into the Old Spring Wood Nature Reserve. Follow the path by the wall (it bends left then right) to where it crosses at another stone stile/gap and descends diagonally through the wood. On leaving the wood at a gate, a path following a barbed wire fence will be seen on the right. Follow this (going beneath the crag) and cross it carefully at your chosen spot. On first acquaintance it is probably best to identify the mighty Vomer Buttress which is an Vomer Buttress has two tiers, the upper of which takes the form of twin high-angle slabs separated by a wide cleft and lying above a wide ledge. Below the ledge the lower tier is crossed by a roof. To the right is another buttress gained by scrambling upwards below Vomer Buttress. It is also split into two tiers. This is Corkscrew Buttress. The lower Wall is split by an obvious crack; Corkscrew E2 5c, to the left of which is a scramble up to the upper tier of Vomer Buttress and its aforementioned pair of slabs.

2 Vomer Lower Wall The bouldering is located around to the left side of the buttress where the right side of the arête is the start of two routes. On the left side is an attractive steep wall (The Clattering) with a corner to its left and a roof left again this provides the first problem 1/ Clatterjack 7a * SDS under right side of the roof. Out to lip, left to the arête and up before stepping back right to finish 2/ Strongbow Start 5+ * Gain the hanging green ramp and traverse the horizontal crack to the ledge above Clatterjack 1/ The Clattering 7b+ *** Climbs the gently overhanging wall to the left of the arête. The FA set two rules: the obvious sloping ramp at ground level is out, and so is the hanging right arête. The standing starts (using the ramp) are easier and worthwhile and still take in the fun last move. There are two variations, both starting and ending in the same place, the left-hand version being a bit better and harder. Sit-start matching the chest-high rail (feet up off the ramp!). A/. LH version 7b/+: Use the left arête to gain the line of edges on the face. Span out to the crack on the right, then pop for the top. B/. RH version 7b: Reach into the hanging crack on the right and work up it until the edges out left can be reached, then pop for the top.

3 The Corkscrew Upper Wall has some fine problems above a spacious ledge and is worth a visit. It is reached by scrambling around to the right. The crack with a tree is the top pitch of the route Corkscrew. 1/ Summertime Blues 5+ * Start as for One in Ten and pull left for a good hold. Step across to the tree (on Corkscrew). Climb the right rib of the crack 2/ One in Ten 6c+ *** The superb central rib, passing an obvious undercut with difficulty. To the right are two routes the first of which can be bouldered with caution. The right one is possible if you are feeling brave. 3/ Summer Dreams 5 * The groove behind the tree. 4/ End Slab 5 ** Climb the scoops to the right.

4 Narrow Buttress Some 150m right is a tall twin buttress the home of some very good routes. A bolder problem has been recorded on a block just below it: The Crow 6a Start in the low break and gain the top. On the furthest block down in the trees to the right: Crow s Nest 6c Short undercut arête starting with LH undercuts and RH crimp finishing by the tree. No foot-blocks. Cone Buttress The next area has some great problems and is only 40m away. However, it is best reached by descending and the re-ascending due to the intervening holly trees At the bottom left side is a small nose with some fun problems that are fun and also provide warmups for the greater fare. 1/ Magnum 6b SDS with hands low using the bottom edge of the cracks 2/ Ninety Nine 6b+ * SDS. LH on crimp just above the Magnum roof. RH crack. Climb direct using a pinch/sloper on the rib. 3/ Honey Cone 4+ SDS just right. LH crack, RH round side-pull on right. Up past break To the right rises the cone of Cone Buttress. Problems push the boundary between bouldering and routes and the landing slopes steeply downhill. Choose your grade depending on pad and catcher availability. 4/ Rubicon 7a (E6 6c) ** A very bold outing. Easy at first but once the Rubicon has been crossed things get mighty thin. Ensure the top is clean. 5/ Counting Crows 6c (E5 6b) ** Progressively harder moves to the final...

5 6/ Half a Drainpipe 7b+/c ** The fine jutting arête taken from the right. Half a Drainpipe Low 7c+ ** Low compression start. Tough moves to gain the sloper on the original. 7/ Afterthought 6b+ The rather green slab to the right needs a clean. Climbed on the right with a hole. Pic Right Dave Sutcliffe on Half a Drainpipe Low. Across to the right are a series of blocks that go all the way down the hill and on at least 4 levels. For convenience these are described starting at the top level and working down the hill to end up back at the fence in a rather circuitous manner it really does make sense! The top level takes the form of a low edge and was curiously missed out of the YG Guide. This is a shame as the problems are very good.

6 Red Wall The low, red looking edge with an obvious corner. There are some lesser blocks over to the left but any problems are slight and poor. 1/ Hard Target 7b+ ** SDS. Sit start under the left arête. Clamp the prow from as low as possible, pull up and gain the arête and a sloping edge on the face. Work your feet out and make a tricky move to a pocket, before working your way up the arête via some tenuous, off-balance moves. 2/ Hard Target Higher Start 7a* SDS. The higher sit start to Hard Target pulling up to the pocket. 3/ Softy 7a * SDS. Sitting just right of Hard Target, pull onto the wall and bop for the top. 4/ Softly 6a+ * The thin wall with a reachy start just right of Softy and left of the easy corner 5/ Red Corner 2 The easy corner. 6/ Red Heat 7a ** SDS. A quality problem starting from sitting, using two holds low on the arête right of the easy corner. Gain the big side pull out left and work your way up to the pocket on the arête and an easy finish. 6a/ Red Heat Higher 6c ** SDS using the big side-pull and arête. A good problem. An even easier variation uses the left arête to start and is also good. 7/ Amino 6c/+ ** A brilliant technical problem up the scooping wall to the right of Red Heat. Well worth seeking out and baffling on first acquaintance so harder than it looks!

7 Dropping down the hillside there is a group of blocks. The bottom, leftmost one has a smooth downhill face and a slabby right wall. This is the Fluide Block. Fluide Block 1/ Corvus Arête 6a+/b * The left arête. 2/ Fluide 7b+/c ** The thin crack to an undercut. Smeary feet then a monster move to the top. Morpho. 3/ Raven Arête 4+ * The right arête. Around the arête is a nice slab. 4/ The Rave 3+ The central crack. Eliminates to left and right are possible. To the right is Split Wall Split Rib 5+ * SDS. The protruding rib/nose. The Splits 3 * The crack. The Divide 4 * Eliminate rib. Split Wall 4+ * Nice little wall.

8 Right of Way Across to the right are a nice slab/rib and a leaning arête. Green Way 5 The slabby rib with a high step Right of Way 6b+ * SDS. The leaning arête keeping on the right side. A 6b variation is the stand start finishing either left or right. Way Off 4 The rib to the right from a jam. Down below and to the right of Fluide is a low block with a good problem Rave On. Dave Turnbull tackles Green Way 1/ Rave On 7a+ * SDS. Big undercuts to sloper on the left and a long reach. Get rockin! Below Fluide and just above the fence is Losing My Edge: 1/ Losing My Edge 7c ** SDS. LH on the jug on the arête. RH undercut. Slap up the arête following it until its apex. Mantel and top out. A lesser variation is to swing onto the jug and slap/throw for the pinch hold joining the original.