Crimpy Roof Hare Heads
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- Rafe Charles
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1 Crimpy Roof Hare Heads General Information Grid Ref SE Parking GPS Altitude 272M Aspect All SW Conditions Quick drying, afternoon sun and all the wind Plod Time 5 Mins Landings Excellent f2 to f4 4 f4+ to f6a 14 f6a + to f6c 9 f6c+ to f7c 8 F7c+ and above 4 One of the many far flung areas around Brimham. A series of small outcroppings scattered across the south sloping edge of the moor. It dries quickly with good views across the Vale of York. Some of the rock is soft and needs respect. A nice little circuit with room for some more development. All New problems recorded have probably been climbed before.. Problems previously recorded with a number have been given a name just because its easier. This is an attempt to record things in a complete manner. Parking and approach: Park in layby and walk over the moor. If the layby is full park at the National trust Carpark and walk in via Heart Shaped slab 20 Mins
2 Crimpy Roof Hare Heads
3 Retroclaimers 1. Retroclaimers Traverse F4 Left to right stepping up at the end. Delusional Rock 2. Delusions of Grandeur F6a Traverse : Long traverse of high gritty break finish in scoop at back of block 3. A suitable case for treatment F5 : SDS Up The crack and over the bulge 4. The Prozac years F5+ : Edges and flakes up wall 5. Columbian Necktie F6c : SDS up off rib and right on poor rock
4 The Fin 5. Donkeys Knob F4+ Sit start, up the flakes and over the top for a big pull 6. Gay Bar F4+ Double knee bar start and up the wall above The Blob 7. Bloodstone (CD6 P1) F5+: Grim problem up flake in roof to hideous finish 8. Getting blood out of a stone F6b : Long traverse on lip back as possible, climb out using flake and crimp on lip 10. Modern Day Romance (CD6 P4) F5+ : Climb up right to features on arête and up. 9. Call of the Wig Hat F6a : SDS as far
5 The Blobling Nothing recorded. Classy 360 traverse of top break awaits a suitor Cyclops 11. SUPT. Mc Vitie (CD7 P1) F3+ : Up Slabby wall on gritty rock Highball 12. DCI Burke (CD7 P2) F7a+ : SDS Climb left out of scoop using tiny razor hold
6 Cyclops 13. DI Ross (CD7 P3) F5+ : The wall emerging from square recess between the boulders 14. Lobo F8a : Start in the pit, Up right avoiding plinth, traverse right on fading break finish on shelf 15. Taggart F7b : Lobo start, finish up cyclops 15. Cyclops F6a+ : Straight up wall past hole 17. Ten Traverse F7c+ : Reverse Lobo finish at obvious jug above the pit p 10p F7C : Start as Ten traverse, finish up Cyclops
7 Tiny Slab Nothing recorded potential for a couple of smear test micro problems TWIN TOWERS All Highball problems with no descent route other than down climbing Twin Towers 19. Chip Pan Fire F Burning Toast (CD8 P2) F Fire Alarm (CD8 P1) F5 22. CD8 P4 Severe : Trad Route Some potential for hard Highball problems either side of 22
8 Crimpy Roof Home to countless eliminates and variations 23. Crimpy Roof F7b : Start lying at the back with heel on a spur, Climb through short roof to crimps on lip.. Power to break 24. To Me To You F7c+ : Same start as crimpy roof, then traverse the lip on small holds to gain poor sloper with Rh then go to juggy break. 25. To You Too F8a : An extension of To Me To You finishing fully around the arête 26. Claret F7b : Start with crimp on arête and blade in roof, traverse left to finish as for Crimpy Roof
9 Crimpy Roof 27. Forced Entry Direct Start (CD 9 P4) F6c : SDS Straight up from the plinth to the crack 28. Crimp it Barry F7b+ : Roof just to left of Hare s head crack to break 29. Hare s Head Crack (CD 9 P5) Severe 30. Limp Crimp F6a+ Slabby wall using ledge and 2 crimps (No crack) 31. CD9 P6 Project 32. CD9 P7 Project 33. Sloper Groper F4+ : Round the back somewhere Direct line to right of Emerald Eye Highball
10 Dolphin s Nose 34. Pod Wall F5 : Up rippled wall to left 35. Fisherman's Friend F5+ : Start holding big thread, gain big sloper then rock up to seam.. Finish here 36. Flipper F6b : From thread traverse right along low ledge to finish as sharkbait 37. Dolphin High Traverse (CD10 P11) F7c : Right to left traverse of mid height break on tiny holds 38. Dolphin Roof Project : As Dolphins Nose but straight up over roof.. Dirty 39 Dolphins Nose F7a : SDS use big pockets and then crimps to reach the dolphins nose then up 40 The Big Green F7a : Start from Sharkbait ledge, use small hold to hole then up Dolphin s Nose 41 Sharkbait F6a : From the big ledge double dyno to the lip. 42. Dolphin Arête F6b : SDS Climb Arête by friable flake.
11 Cod Nose 43. Pinch of Salt F6a+ : SDS LH Arête of block. No plinth 44. Fishy Nostril F4+ : Start RH side of sloping break, up left round the arête to finish 45 Cod Nose Project : Straight Up and Over the nose 46. Toilet Cubicle F6c : From good undercuts in lower break slap up to rounded top then use slight runnel to top out.. Savage
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