HONDARRIBIA. In the Lands of the Basque Universe. And Its Parador T

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1 In the Lands of the Basque Universe HONDARRIBIA And Its Parador T "This great calm, this silence everywhere, this untouchable tranquility in the air, a stillness of light and shade, make me feel as if time has stopped its race through the centuries for just one moment of reflection, of waiting, or perhaps to look with melancholy to the past, to what has come before, races, religions..." Pierre Lotti. Echoes of Jaizkibel he first documents on the origin of Hondarribia indicate that the town was founded in 1500, as is recorded in the so-called Libro Grande, or Big Book, in the town hall archives. However, one of Felipe II's chroniclers claimed that the true origins "must date back more than two thousand years, its gates and walls, and some of its houses are evidence of its ancient origins..." The prehistoric caves near the town of Rentería provide other, unwritten, evidence that people were already hunting, gathering, and fishing in this area some 35,000 years ago. Not a few historians and chroniclers place the arrival of Vasconia's first settlers at around the time of the Great Flood. Tubal, son of Japheth and grandson of Noah, is said to have been the first to arrive in Spain, just a century and a half after the Flood, settling with his people "in the Pyrenees, eventually expanding and spreading down into the valleys, into Navarre and other Basque areas..." Although geographers, historians, and ethnographic experts - from ancient to modern, from Ptolemy and Pliny to Caro Baroja are not always in agreement, what they do agree on is that this area has had a significant and intense impact on the history of the peninsula. It has absorbed, rather than exported, cultures and civilizations; conquests and reconquests; heresies, prophecies, and other miracles from the nearby hills, from the pilgrims' Route of Saint James; from witchcraft and other akelarres (gatherings of witches). And for centuries, there were always frontier wars. The chronicles also show that Hondarribia has not always been in Guipuzcoa. At certain times in the past it formed part of Navarre, and it was not until the early 19th century that it joined Guipuzcoa again. In the middle of all this activity, its identity was established at the beginning of the 13th century, when King Alfonso VIII granted it town status and the Charter of San Sebastian gave it jurisdiction over Irún, Lezo, and Pasajes de San Juan. Since then the town has been awarded considerable privileges by the monarchs of Castile, sometimes in the form of tax exemptions and sometimes "granting safe passage to the traders who come to this port to buy fish for Navarre, or to ensure that no boats were favored more than those of Fuenterrabía..." Other significant privileges and tax concessions would be granted by King Alfonso X, the Wise: "so that today's inhabitants and those of the future may better populate this town, we hereby remove all taxes and contributions forever..." HONDARRINBIA AND ITS PARADOR 1

2 Other monarchs, such as Sancho the Brave, and the Catholic Monarchs, who unified Spain, took similar measures. Felipe V granted Hondarribia "permission to export up to a thousand tons of goods from the fleet and galleons of the Indies free of charge, so that the profits may be used to repair buildings destroyed by the last bombardment, while the town was besieged by French forces in " Since then, the history of this small, crowded region has sped into the modern era, with the coming of the Enlightenment, and progress. In the middle of the last century, Queen Isabel chose Donostia as her location of choice to take the waters. And so San Sebastian became a summer resort for the aristocracy. Much later, Queen María Cristina was also an avid summer visitor. This may have contributed to attracting another type of court, this one financial, as the wealthy of France and Germany sought rest and relaxation here. And so for many reasons today's town of San Sebastian was born, reborn and has flourished. Castle of Heroes and Spirits T "I am a small river, but I have great charm and I am more famous than many of my larger cousins. Strabo, Ptolemy and Pliny have all spoken of me... I hold some of the severity of Navarre; some of the gentleness of Guipúzcoa and some of the courtesy of France..." he ancient castle which houses today's Parador has seen many changes during the course of its unnatural frontier history. It was due precisely to its location that it began life as a shelter and fortress between this peninsula, which is Spain, and neighboring France. Some of the peninsula's most difficult times have been experienced in this fortress previously a walled compound and subsequently a palace. Even the Moorish invasion extended this far, although not with any strength. The Route of Saint James passed through here. Rights and privileges were won here and the area has been visited by cultures and superstitions, tastes, styles and refinements, all much more European than Spanish. But it also suffered invasions. So the frontier brings a tension to Hondarribia; but it also provides a balance. The old castle was built by King Pío Baroja. El Bidasoa Sancho Abarca of Navarre, and was extended and fortified by King Sancho the Wise around the 12th century. However, its austere, though noble and elegant, façade, which still displays the scars of many a battle, was built on the orders of Emperor Carlos V. The first historic document in existence concerning the castle (1802) states: "The royal palace is worthy of note. It has a square in front where the troops drill. The building, which contains a vault, a platform and barracks for 850 beds, is attributed to Don Sancho Abarca, King of Navarre; its fortifying to Don Sancho the Strong and the beautiful façade to Emperor Carlos V." Apparently, the part of the castle that was used as a palace was lower down, and was destroyed by French troops in Very little of it remains today. However, this palace has received many illustrious visitors during the course of its history: Admiral Oquendo, who served his sentence here as punishment for an irreverent reply given to the Council; the Duke of Alba, governor of the castle at the age of 18; Garcilaso de la Vega; Beltrán de la Cueva; the Marquis of Villena; the Marquis of Spínola, conqueror of Breda, depicted by Velázquez in his painting "The Lances". This palace would also serve as a royal stopping place and accommodation for even more powerful figures. Thus it was the 2 HONDARRIBIA AND ITS PARADOR

3 friendly and welcoming refuge of Carlos V, Felipe III and Felipe IV, and Queen Isabel de Valois, Felipe II's third wife. The passing of time eventually turned this fortress into beautiful but costly ruins, to such an extent that the local council renounced its rights of usufruct and put it up for public auction. It remained in private hands until 1928, when the visiting Queen María Cristina was horrified to discover that the castle was for sale, and expressed her desire that it return to the control of the local council. And so this was done. The historic building's ransom totaled 145,000 pesetas. Soon afterwards, Miguel Primo de Rivera, President of the Council of Ministers, had a plaque put up stating: "This castle, witness to the greatness of Spain at such a time as the sun never set over its domains, will be one of the archives of Spanish civilization, whose light continues to shine throughout the world." A long and laborious restoration process was begun in 1929 with the installation of an elevator (at a cost of 25,000 pesetas). It was finally inaugurated as a Parador by General Franco himself in Modernization has respected the numerous memories of a turbulent and splendid past filled with ghosts and legends. Not in vain has Hondarribia been known for centuries as the cradle of witches and akelarres. Should the visitor desire, in Reception you can find out more about "the numerous passages beneath the castle, which some have entered, never to be seen again..." "The walls here creak at night." Among those who can bear witness to this fact are the Parador's many famous guests: Sophia Loren, Paco Camino, Natalia Figueroa, Camilo José Cela, and even Pompidou. A Walk along Seas, Mountains, and Frontiers Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. Gothic. Stately homes and palaces in Nagusía Street. La Marina area, with typical arratzale houses. Pampinot, Mayor, San Nicolás and Tiendas Streets. Sanctuary of Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe on Mount Jaizkibel. The beach. Fishing port. Santa María Gate HONDARRINBIA AND ITS PARADOR 3

4 The Glorious Sin of Gluttony Halibut comes from the sea, mutton from the land, and chefs from Donostia. Popular Saying of ways. As for fish and shellfish, there are all that you could possibly imagine (hake, bonito tuna, cod, baby cuttlefish, elvers, spider crabs, and txangurro crabs. And there are other less common foods such as eels, garfish, barnacles, pandora, sea snails, frogs' legs, and crabs. There are steaks and stews, especially oxtail, from the cattle that graze in the Pyrenees, and lamb is more common than pork. ven for those with little E interest in gastronomy, a visit to these parts will inevitably result in a foray into the indulgent sin of gluttony. Not without reason has Basque cuisine won over the world's the most discerning palates. However, as the Basques point out, their dishes are simple, made with what they have on hand: good, abundant, varied, high quality ingredients. "And everything here is made with love." These strategic frontier lands also enjoy a strategic position in culinary terms: valleys and mountains, seas and rivers, and a generous and mild climate. Tender fruits and vegetables grow here in abundance: white beans, broad beans, cardoons and cabbage...and potatoes, without which there would be no Marmitako stew. There are peppers, chestnuts, and apples for stews, desserts, ciders, and other sweet things. The wide variety of wild mushrooms deserve their excellent reputation. There are Perretxikos in the spring, Black Mushrooms, and Russulas, all of which are prepared in a variety Desserts abound, made with walnuts, apples, and chestnuts, and include such enticing choices as rice pudding, tarts, and sponge cakes such as Panchineta, the Basque cake. Visitors will find any type of cheese they may desire, both local and French. To drink, there are wines from the Álava region of the Rioja, local Guipuzcoan txakolí, and cider. As visitors will already be aware, this Parador does not have a restaurant. However, rather than being a disadvantage for the pilgrim, this is a blessing. Man does not live on museums, stones, and views alone. There are an abundance of shrines to gastronomy, virtually one around every corner. Look especially in port areas and in the old quarter of any town, in Donostia-San Sebastián, of course, but also in Orio, Getaria, Zumaia, Pasajes, and Saint Jean de Luz. A wide range of restaurants and places to sample tapas and varied dishes is to be found just a few minutes from the Parador. Wild boar and tenderloin, cod, sea bream, bonito tuna, hake, txangurro, spider crab, mushrooms, and other delicacies are all on offer. Ask for recommendations in Reception. You will not be disappointed. Journey to the Heart of Guipúzcoa Along the coast to the west of San Sebastián (Usúrbil, Aginaga, Orio, Zarautz, Zumaia) Usúrbil: (12 km. from San Sebastián): This is the heart of cidermaking country. The town is located at the foot of Mount Irimo. Places to visit include the Church of San Salvador and Atxega Palace. Aginaga: Famous for its eels. Orio: Fishing harbor with interesting architectures. San Juan Beach and the Church of San Nicolás. Zarautz: Important holiday resort with some of the best beaches 4 HONDARRIBIA AND ITS PARADOR

5 in Guipuzcoa and interesting buildings: Narros Palace, Church of Nuestra Señora of Luzea... Getaria: Famous fishing harbor where Juan Sebastián Elcano was born. Zumaia: House and museum of the painter Ignacio Zuloaga. Church of San Pedro with a magnificent altarpiece. Two beautiful beaches: Itzurun and Santiago. Return to the Parador either by the motorway or, even better, continue to Itziar and its famous Shrine; to Deba with its Gothic church, declared a national monument; then on to Mutriku, a typical fishing village, located on the border with Bizkaia. A visit to the French Basque Country: (Hendaye, Saint Jean de Luz, Biarritz) Saint Jean de Luz: A maritime town. Visit the fishing port, the church where King Louis XIV of France was married, and the Casa del Rey (King's House). Biarritz: The Rock of the Virgin and the Lighthouse. This is a good place to walk, to enjoy the beach, and to eat. The Hotel du Palais retains its turn-of-thecentury charm. The Bidasoa and Baztan regatta route: (Bera de Bidasoa, Etxalar, Señoría de Bértiz, Zugarramurdi) The Bidasoa is a trout-fishing river. The popular Bidasoa regattas are held on the river near Hondarribia (in Navarre). such as the Church of San Esteban (15th century), the Town Hall and the Itzea Mansion, owned by the Baroja family, where the writer Don Pío and his nephew, the academic Julio Caro, lived. Lesaka: Traditional village. Church of San Martín de Tours. Etxalar: The town is well worth a wander. The transept of the Church of La Asunción is especially beautiful. Narvarte and Lesaka: Fine examples of local rural architecture. Oieregi: Reaparecea Palace and nearby, the Bértiz Estate, now a Nature Reserve. Bértiz Nature Reserve has more than two thousand hectares of beech, oaks, and chestnuts populated by foxes, martens, deer, wild boar, mountain cats, blackbirds, goldfinches, and robins. There is also an exotic garden with waterfalls and 120 different species of trees and shrubs. A Baztán mansion was built here in the last century, boasting a modernist style chapel. Zugarramurdi: and its satanic caves. Here, according to tradition, witches hold their akelarres. Forty local women were accused of witchcraft in 1611 and burned at the stake. During the 16th and 17th centuries, the Inquisition sentenced many supposed witches and warlocks in this area of the Pyrenees. A day trip to Lourdes (300 km. round trip) is also possible from the Parador at Hondarribia, taking the route Hondarribia, Bayonne, Pau, Lourdes. Bera del Bidasoa: A beautiful village with remarkable buildings, Parador de Hondarribia El Emperador Plaza de Armas, Hondarribia (Guipúzcoa) Tel.: Fax: hondarribia@parador.es Reservation Center Requena, Madrid (España) Tel.: Fax: / reservas@parador.es wap.parador.es/wap/ Text: Miguel García Sánchez Design: Fernando Aznar HONDARRINBIA AND ITS PARADOR 5