PLB, Tape, 2 litres of water, electrolytes, camera and preparedness to have a good day out regardless. Change of gear. Numbers Max 8.

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1 Bush Club Inc. Short Notice Walk Greater Blue Mountains National Park- Mugii Murum-ban SCA - Exploring top of the Citadel- Exploratory- Monday 20 th February Track Notes Title The Citadel Date Monday 20 th February 2017 Leader Michael Keats Maps etc. Department of Lands Topographic Map 1:25000 Ben Bullen, S, second edition. GPS setting WGS 84 Walk Park on the Glen Davis Road at approximately GR , then climb description up the talus slope to the plateau top. Follow the cliff edge all the way to and route the point at GR Continue walking counter clockwise to approximately GR , then head west and descend the talus slope to the vehicles. About 4km, +&- 300m Rating Gear issues 5-6, M, LTW PLB, Tape, 2 litres of water, electrolytes, camera and preparedness to have a good day out regardless. Change of gear. Numbers Max 8. Meeting point 0545 Pymble, pick up Richmond 0630, Wolgan Road 0815 and Capertee General Store 0850 Transport Club Cars. Comments This walk will have challenging sections, Absolutely stunning views, and possible exposure. Bring the camera Close of ASAP Bookings Enquiries Michael Keats, mjmkeats@easy.com.au or Telephone The Party Michael Keats, leader, Harold Thompson, John Anderson, Bernice Torstensson and Scott Marshall, 5. The Weather A near perfect day for walking and taking photographs; a brilliant sunny and cloudless sky; good air clarity with a cool breeze in exposed areas in the morning, heating up in the afternoon. Temperature range 16 to 26 degrees. Place Names in the area The Citadel is a descriptive name for a prominent rock formation on the southernmost extremity of Genowlan Mountain. Named by Dr Haydn Washington, November Ref: Correspondence with David Blackwell, 27 th April Ben Bullen Topo Map, GR Capertee Valley is nearly 30km across. It is the largest enclosed valley in Australia. Bogee, Glen Alice and Ben Bullen Topo Maps. 1

2 Citadel Spur is a prominent spur above the Glen Davis Road, Capertee. Extending from Genowlan Trig in a generally southern direction to Citadel Point. Named by Michael Keats after this named southern point on a Bush Club walk 2 nd March Glen Alice Topo Map, southern end; northern end. Genowlan Castle is located 700m north east of Genowlan Trig. It is a massive grouping of pagodas likened to a wall of battlements immediately below a top turret. Named by Michael Keats on Bush Club walk 1 st June Glen Alice Topo Map, Genowlan Trig Station is a trigonometrical station on same mesa, elevation 1040m, and is3.8km south, south west of Genowlan Mountain. Established by the Department of Lands, Ref: Trig Summary Cards, Department of Lands, Bathurst. Glen Alice Topo Map, GR See Book 1, Walk 1.2 & 1.9, for detailed Track Notes. Mount Airly is 1.4km west of the old Town of Airly and 1.5km north of Glen Davis Road. Glen Alice Topo Map, GR See Book 1, Walk 1.3, for detailed Track Notes. Mugii Murum-ban State Conservation Area (MMB SCA) was created on the 4th March It covers an area of 3650ha. This area is on the northern side of the Glen Davis Road, 8km east of Capertee and includes Mount Airly and Mount Genowlan. The park contains a great diversity of ecosystems, supporting several threatened plants and animals and two threatened ecological communities. It also contains heritage stone dwellings of New Hartley oil shale ruins near Airly Gap. Named after the Wiradjuri Elder, Charley Riley. Mugii is Riley s Wiradjuri name and means a Mopoke Owl, while Murum-ban means eldest son in the Wiradjuri language. There was a significant increase in the size of the MMB SCA on 3 rd August 2016, when Portion 67, DP abutting 3.6km of the northern boundary and also adjoining the southern boundary of Capertee National Park was added. The downside is that being part of the SCA underground mining is permitted. Suspended Barbican is located 400m south east of Genowlan Trig. A section of cliff line has parted from the main cliff and moved out about 30 to 50m. About 200m long this great block has a suspended floor about 80m down from the top. Walking access from the top is not possible. Named by Michael Keats on Bush Club walk 1 st June A barbican is an outer fortification to a castle or town, a watchtower guarding a gate or drawbridge. Glen Alice Topo Map, The Hammer refers to an area of land shaped like a hammer head, located on the eastern extremity of Genowlan Mountain mesa. Named by Michael Keats on a Bush Club walk, 9 th 11 th November The aerial view is like the head of a claw hammer. Glen Alice Topo Map, GR head of the hammer, GR claw of the hammer. See Book 1, Walk 1.23, for detailed Track Notes. Ultimate Chute is an unbelievable slot partly seen from the Ultimate Point which gives access to the eastern side of Airly, from the headwaters of Dog Trap Creek and Glen Davis Road to the top of the cliff line. Located 300m south east of Genowlan Trig. This 100m slot (no ropes required) was named by Daryl Watson on a Bush Club walk 10 th August Glen Alice Topo Map, base, top. 2

3 Ultimate Point refers to the most stupendous outlooks from the top of Citadel Spur 480m near due south of Genowlan Trig. Views across the Capertee Valley, and the peaks of all the surrounding mountains, plus the majesty of Pantoneys Crown. Named by Shelia Zarman on a Bush Club walk 2 nd March Glen Alice Topo Map, Track Notes At 0855 the vehicles were parked at GR on the verge of the Glen Davis Road. A ridge at this point leads up to the base of the cliffs at an inflexion point where the Citadel Spur changes direction from north south to north west-south east. Plot of the walk overlaid on an aerial photograph. Recorded by Harold Thompson, Prepared by Yuri Bolotin. 3

4 Plot of the walk overlaid on a topographic map. Recorded Harold Thompson, Prepared by Yuri Bolotin. Underfoot conditions were as dry as we have ever seen them. Apart from some circling birds the only living wildlife seen were two species of spiders. Excellent progress was made despite constant slipping on polished dry leaves. A small level knoll at GR provided the first view of Blackman s Crown 1 away to the south. Twenty minutes later we had climbed to the base of the cliff line arriving at a blunt nose. A test walk to the east was not encouraging, although it was probably the right way to go. We were here to explore so after discounting further exploration into that valley we returned to the blunt nose, GR and began a very different walk along a ledge that I have dubbed The Citadel Balcony. 1 Blackmans Crown Is a hill rising about 240 metres from Turon Creek with a height of 1015m. It is about 3km south, south east of Capertee and 1km south of Pearsons Lookout. Located on the Great Dividing Range, this part of the ridge is locally known as Crown Ridge. The NSW Government Gazette, 1835, p. 24, records the name Blackmans Crown. Lang, John Dunmore. An Historical and Statistical Account of New South Wales, 1875, p. 220, records, the singularly formed summit of which is called Blackman's Crown, in honour of one of the earliest settlers at Mudgee, whose hat or head piece it was to resemble." 4

5 Negotiating a tight section of the Citadel Balcony. Michael assesses the next probable slot, Berenice, Harold and Scott in transit. Photo: John Anderson. Michael out in front testing whether the Citadel Balcony still continues. Photo: Scott Marshall. 5

6 A special wind eroded cave on the Citadel Balcony. Photo: John Anderson. About 300m along this ledge which is richly endowed with wind eroded caves, amazing towering vertical cliff faces and some horizontal crawls, we came across a slot that looked as though it might provide a way up through the cliff line to the tops, GR Fifteen minutes was invested in scrambling up this remarkable ravine. It has some challenging straddles with high exposure and narrow ledges that have unacceptable exposure. What cruelled this as a way of route was a two metre vertical face right at the top. At least we know it does not go. A further 150m on after some wonderful body contortions on shallow ledges a way up was found, GR This twin route is formed by a large, square section glide block tower that has moved out from the cliff face creating two almost parallel sided ramps that are virtual staircases. It is also at about this point that the Citadel Balcony runs out. The top of the Citadel Pass is at GR and the cliff edge at this point was our chosen spot for an overdue morning tea break. The view immediately beneath us was of Col Ribaux s property, Mount Airlie. With morning tea over, we then enjoyed an easy, gentle incline walk almost due south to the top of the ridge. Immediately to the north some 200m is Ultimate Point. From our position access to it looked impossible although by using Amphitheatre Pass and the Pagoda Amphitheatre, Ultimate Point can be visited. Today our interest was to the south. The ridge crest is sparsely clothed with a Casuarina Forest with occasional taller Eucalypts. The under story was mostly non- existent as the oil from the Casuarina needles is toxic to 6

7 This slot looked positive but a two metre face at the top made it a no go. Photo: Michael Keats. 7

8 The south west ramp of The Citadel Pass. The north west ramp on the other side of the glide block is easier. Photo: Michael Keats. 8

9 Rough going on the top of Citadel Spur. Photo: John Anderson. Harold on the southern cliff edge 150m west of the Citadel. Blackmans Crown top left hand corner. Photo: Scott Marshall. 9

10 An unusual view of the southern tip of Mount Airly from The Citadel. Photo: John Anderson. most other plant species. 2 The complex oil is widely used in beauty treatments. Progress under these conditions was rapid, although locally topography required frequent checking with the compass to ensure we did not fall off the ridge spine. From the saddle where we emerged from Citadel Pass, GR , readings were taken at 1053, GR and a corrected direction at 1103, GR where we swung from heading south to south east. There was only one small change in the vegetation along the length of Citadel Spur. This occurred where a lack of tree cover and exposed rocks had led to the development of a patch of thick bracken, GR Through the thinning forest we could now see a lot of bare rock. Like iron filings to a magnet we were drawn to these and the mighty cliff edge. At 1116, GR we stood on the edge. The view extended from the south west extremity of Mount Airly all the way to Blackmans Crown and then to Pantoneys Crown (south). Panning east from here we could pick out Baal Bone Point, Mount Maclean, Mount Jamison, Mount Davidson and Mount Dawson. Mount Canobla was at the limit of our visual field. What a spot! Moving further to the east we stopped again at GR From this point the view west now stopped at Blackmans Crown while to the east we added Mount 2 The leaf essential oil of Casuarina equisetifolia L. (Casuarinaceae) comprised mainly of pentadecanal (32.0%) and 1,8-cineole (13.1%), with significant amounts of apiole (7.2%), α-phellandrene (7.0%) and α-terpinene (6.9%), while the fruit oil was dominated by caryophyllene-oxide (11.7%), trans-linalool oxide (11.5%), 1,8-cineole (9.7%), α-terpineol (8.8%) and α-pinene (8.5%). 10

11 Descending - the top of Citadel Pass. The way up and down is to the right of the glide block Photo: Harold Thompson. Someone just had to climb it! John on top of a pedestal, 200 west of The Citadel. Photo: Harold Thompson. 11

12 A telephoto view of Airly Turret from the top of Citadel Pass. Photo: Harold Thompson. Gundangeroo, Sir Johns Mouth and Mount Iris. Immediately beneath our feet, GR , a wild slot appeared to provide a possible route down. Whilst it may go, I did not feel confident to tackle it and besides we still had to make it to the point of The Citadel. A hundred metres or so from the Citadel, also, GR there is a high point with a huge view that extends from Cherry Tree Hill on the Mudgee Road (west) all the way to the Capertee River constriction that hides Glen Davis in the east. This is a truly stunning location. Our next stop was at The Citadel itself, GR Appropriately the end point is a small, level, elevated platform with an even more expanded view, this time it included the far 12

13 Rock slot study, The Citadel. Photo: John Anderson. View from the Citadel to Mounts Canobla and Gundangaroo. Photo: Harold Thompson. 13

14 Rocks 200m west of The Citadel. Pantoneys Crown immediately below the centre horizon. Photo: John Anderson. Berenice admires the point of The Citadel 100m back. Photo: Harold Thompson. 14

15 On the cliff edge near The Citadel, left to right Harold, Bernice, Michael, Pantoneys Crown and John. Photo: Scott Marshall. eastern end of The Hammer, and shimmering in the distance, roof tops at Glen Alice. Much closer in and to the north was the Suspended Barbican, and the Ultimate Chute. We spent from 1148 to 1207 here as our brains processed the information and the unique nature of this wonderful place. The thought that this vantage point could be lost because of approved underground mining would be a tragedy for Australia s natural heritage. Time for lunch. But where to sit to enjoy the best view? I decided that shade was more important and moved back a few metres to study the cliffs around the Suspended Barbican. Others scattered around the point to enjoy various segments of the view. Seeing it was all so great we had 24 minutes for lunch. Now it was time to make our way back we were at GR ; 1258 at GR ; 1308 at GR Having decided to not descend into the headwaters of Dog Trap Creek and circle around the base of the cliffs 100m below (an extra 3km of bush bashing) or to attempt the slot near The Citadel itself, I proposed to return the way we came and prove that The Cidatel Pass was indeed a pass and not just a way of route. At 1311 we were at GR , less than 100m from the no go slot attempted in the morning. A tempting ramp was explored but it ended without any options to descend safely. Returning to the spine of the ridge we headed north until GR , and then made an uneventful descent through Citadel Pass. At the base of the pass we ignored the Citadel Balcony and headed more or less south west down the talus slope. 15

16 The far eastern extremity of The Hammer from The Citadel. The gully of Dog Trap Creek can be seen on the centre left had side. Photo: Michael Keats. In the next 400m we descended 220m. The slope is constant all the way to the Glen Davis Road. We did stop at GR where there appears to have been a small coal exposure that had been worked and quickly abandoned. Several benched areas were encountered. We could 16

17 not tell whether these were natural phenomena or whether prospectors had big plans that failed. Harold 20m from The Citadel, view north towards the Suspended Barbican, The Ultimate Chute and the cliffs that form the Ultimate View. Photo: John Anderson. Emperor Gum Moth (Opodiphthera eucalypti) Chrysalis. Photo: John Anderson. 17

18 The Glen Davis Road was reached at 1406, GR A 300m road walk brought us to the vehicles. Total distance walked 6.47km, total ascents 432m. Table of Times, Locations and Grid References Time Location Grid Reference 0855 Park on the Capertee to Glen Davis Road GR On a flat knoll on ridge GR At base of the top cliff line + testing options GR Exploring the Citadel Balcony GR Testing a possible slot up through the cliffs- no go GR Discovered The Citadel Pass GR Morning tea with views west 14 minutes GR In saddle on ridge (Citadel Spur) GR In open Casuarina Forest GR Heading south in forest GR On Citadel Spur GR Views! GR Views! GR Views! GR At The Citadel + views GR Lunch, 24 minutes GR On Citadel Spur GR On Citadel Spur GR On Citadel Spur GR Attempted descent no go GR At saddle GR At base of Citadel Pass GR Descending talus slope GR Coal prospect GR On Capertee Glen Davis Road GR At vehicles GR Michael Keats for The Bush Club Inc., 22 nd February 2017 BCSNW The Citadel Track Notes /MK 18

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