Explore the Caucasus. Turkey, Georgia & Armenia. July 19 August 2, With Harvey Goldblatt / Professor of Medieval Slavic Literature

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1 Featuring an itinerary extensively customized by Professor Goldblatt Explore the Caucasus A Y Turkey, Georgia & Armenia July 19 August 2, 2014 With Harvey Goldblatt / Professor of Medieval Slavic Literature

2 Dear Yale Traveler, AS I CONTEMPLATE my upcoming YET journey to Turkey, Georgia, and Armenia, a fabulous and legendary part of the world that has been defined in many ways from between Europe and Asia to being neither European nor Asian, I write to say how excited I am about this impending adventure. Many have been fortunate enough to travel to the great countries of Europe, as well as the magnificent city of Istanbul, but we will take the path less traveled. I am tremendously enthusiastic about visiting unique locations that long have been pivotal in history and at the crossroads of diverse cultures from the ancient past to the present. MY INTENTION during the trip is to place the wonderful sites we shall be visiting in Turkey, Georgia, and Armenia countries with great traditions and which are in the throes of enormous change against a broad historical and cultural background. Within a world of distinct languages, civilizations, and religions, we shall encounter not only the new challenges of the twenty-first century, but old legends about the Golden Fleece, or Noah s Ark on snow-capped Mt. Ararat, as well as remarkable natural beauty and interesting dining experiences derived from a fusion of different cuisines. FROM THE GREAT imperial and cultural heritages of the Byzantine Commonwealth and the Ottoman Sultanate to a narrow stretch of land between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea, the rugged Caucasus Mountains, and the complex mosaic of myth and history that characterizes the modern nations of Georgia and Armenia, we shall explore exotic regions and former kingdoms that have only rarely been visited but which I am certain we shall talk about for many years to come. And that will make all the difference. With all good wishes from Yale, Harvey Goldblatt, PhD 78 Professor of Medieval Slavic Literature Yale University

3 Harvey Goldblatt Harvey Goldblatt, Professor of Medieval Slavic Literature at Yale, is a specialist in Slavic literary and cultural traditions. A graduate of McGill University, he undertook further study in Moscow and Prague before earning his PhD from Yale in He taught at Yale from 1977 to 1984 and returned in Professor Goldblatt was master of Pierson College for almost two decades ( ). Currently serving as Chair of the Department of Slavic Languages and Literatures, he has been Chair of Yale s Language Study Committee, the Yale- Ukraine Initiative, and the Canadian Studies Committee. He is the editor of Yale Russian and East European Publications and also serves on the editorial boards of several journals on Slavic literatures both in the United States and abroad. Professor Goldblatt has authored numerous studies that examine the Slavic literary and cultural past as well as its present. Lauded by students for his cogent lectures and insights on Slavic and East European culture, as well as his warmth, humor, and accessibility, Professor Goldblatt brings t o the YET journey to Turkey, Georgia, and Armenia an extensive knowledge of the rich cultural heritage that underpins European society. Professor Goldblatt is very enthusiastic about exchanging with Yale fellow travelers ideas and perceptions about this vibrant bridge between Europe and Asia as well as about Yale today. Marvel at the mixture of architectural styles in Old Tbilisi, from the more traditional blend of Byzantine, European/Russian, and Middle Eastern styles (this page) to the more daring avant garde and art nouveau buildings of the early 20th century (back cover) and the towering blocks and faux marble palaces of the Soviet-era architecture of power. (Cover) Enjoy a barbecue dinner and folkloric show at beautiful Lake Van, the largest lake in Turkey and home to both the rare Van Cat breed, which is rumored to be uncommonly fascinated with water, and a Turkish version of the Loch Ness monster.

4 ITINERARY Home / Istanbul, Turkey Saturday & Sunday, July 19 & 20 Depart home on an overnight flight to Istanbul. Upon arrival on July 20, check in to the Hagi Sophia Hotel. Gather this evening for a welcome reception featuring a delicious variety of Turkish mezes. Hagia Sophia Hotel (R) Istanbul Monday, July 21 Visit Topkapi Palace, imperial residence of the Ottoman Sultans, and the Blue Mosque, a stunning combination of Byzantine and Islamic architecture. Then take a cruise along the Bosphorus, which has played a central role in the history of Istanbul since the days of Byzantium. Observe the Golden Horn, Maiden s Tower, the beautiful Ottoman mansions lining the waterway, Dolmabahce Palace, the Bosphorus Bridge, and the Asian shoreline of Istanbul. Hagia Sophia Hotel (B,L) Istanbul / Van Tuesday, July 22 Fly to Van, the cultural center of the Kurdish majority in eastern Turkey. Explore Van Castle, an Iron Age fortress that was constructed as part of the Urartu Kingdom in the 9th century BC. The castle houses the remains of a 16th-century mosque built by the Ottoman sultan Suleiman the Magnificent. Enjoy a festive welcome barbecue dinner and folkloric show. Elite World Van Hotel (B,L,D) Van / Dogubayazit Thursday, July 24 Depart Van and drive to Mount Ararat, a snow-capped, dormant volcanic cone, where, according to the Book of Genesis, Noah s ark came to rest. Continue to the renowned Ishak Pasha Palace, a unique fusion of Selcuk, Ottoman, Georgian, Persian, and Armenian architecture. End the day in Dogubayazit, a small town on a high-altitude, dry plain near the border with Iran. Simer Hotel (B,D) Dogubayazit / Kars Friday, July 25 Drive to Kars to visit Ani, a oncevibrant ancient city located on the border of Turkey and Armenia. At its zenith a thousand years ago, Ani was the capital of an Armenian kingdom with a population of more than 100,000 people. Called The City of 1001 Churches, it was renowned for the splendor and magnificence of its buildings, which rivaled those of Constantinople, Baghdad, and Cairo. Simer Kars Hotel (B,L,D) Kars / Kutaisi, Georgia Saturday, July 26 During this travel day between Kars and Kutaisi, listen to commentary by your study leader while you relax Yerevan and Mount Ararat Van Interior Frescos, Gelati Monastery Wednesday, July 23 See the beautiful bas relief carvings at the Armenian Cathedral of the Holy Cross, originally built as a religious palace, on Akdamar Island. Continue to the fortified site of Cavustepe, which overlooks the Gurpinar Plain and is the bestpreserved of the Urartian citadels. Once known as Sardurihinili, it is a testament to the construction and engineering skills of the Urartians. Elite World Van Hotel (B,L)

5 and observe the passing scenery. In the evening enjoy a special folkloric performance. Rcheulli Palace Hotel (B,L,D) fascinating troglodyte ruin with structures dating from the Iron Age to the Middle Ages. Marriott Hotel (B,L,D) Ancient Armenian Cathedral, Ani Kutaisi Tbilisi Sunday, July 27 In the Sataplia Nature Reserve, explore the Sataplia Cave, a large karst cave with an underground river, stalactites and stalagmites, and the Dinosaur Plateau, where traces of ancient reptiles are imprinted on huge stones. In Kutaisi, visit the 11th-century Bagrati Cathedral and the 12th-century Gelati Monastery, superior examples of medieval Georgian architecture and together designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. Also visit the Motsameta Monastery, surrounded by a forest and with beautiful views over the gorge of the Tskhastsitela River. Rcheulli Palace Hotel (B,L,D) Kutaisi / Gori / Uplistsikhe / Tbilisi Monday, July 28 This morning drive to Stalin s birthplace, Gori, to visit the Joseph Stalin Museum. In front of the Stalinist Gothic-style museum, and sheltered within a Greco-Italianate pavilion, is the small wooden hut where Stalin was born in 1878 and lived for four years. Continue to Tbilisi, stopping at Uplistskhe, a Tuesday, July 29 Enjoy a full day excursion in Tbilisi including Metekhi, the historic district; Abanotubani, known for its sulfuric baths; the ancient fortress, Narikala; the 6th-century Anchiskhati Basilica of St. Mary, the oldest surviving church in Tbilisi; and the Cathedral of Sameba, the third-tallest Eastern Orthodox cathedral in the world. Marriott Hotel (B,L) Tb i l i s i / Ye r eva n, A r m e n i a Wednesday, July 30 Cross into Armenia at the town of Alaverdi to visit the Sanahin Monastery complex and the Haghpat Monastery, both UNESCO World Heritage sites. Their unique style blends elements of Byzantine ecclesiastical architecture and the traditional vernacular architecture of the Caucasus. Continue to Lake Sevan, one of the largest highaltitude lakes in the world (more than a mile above sea level). Visit the 9th-century churches on the peninsula, then continue to Yerevan, the capital of Armenia. Golden Palace Hotel (B,L) Yerevan (Garni & Geghard) Thursday, July 31 Visit the Yerevan History Museum, whose extensive collections vividly tell the history of the city, and the Armenian Genocide Memorial, built in 1965 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Armenian genocide. En route to Garni, enjoy a tour and tasting at a brandy factory. Once in Garni, visit its Hellenistic temple, the summer residence of 1st-century Armenian kings. In nearby Geghard, explore the 12th-century monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage site partially carved out of the adjacent mountain. Gather for a festive farewell reception and dinner to celebrate this adventurous journey. Golden Palace Hotel (B,L,D) The Bosphorus From Topkapi Palace Yerevan (Echmiadzin) Friday, August 1 Begin the day at Matenadaran (the Mesrop Mashtots Institute of Ancient Manuscripts), which holds one of the world s richest repositories of medieval manuscripts and books in Armenian and many other languages. Continue to Echmiadzin, the spiritual center of the Armenian Apostolic Church. The main cathedral dates from the 4th century, while 7th-century Saint Hripsimé and Saint Gayane churches display fine Armenian-style architecture of the classical period and are World Heritage listed. Golden Palace Hotel (B,L) Yerevan / Home Saturday, August 2 This morning depart for the airport and flights home. (B)

6 Optional Pre-Trip Extension Istanbul / July Spend three days exploring the exceptional treasures of Istanbul. Visit Hagia Sophia once the largest cathedral in the world and now a museum, it is particularly renowned for its massive dome; the Chora Church, a Byzantine marvel converted into a mosque and now also a museum, whose interior is covered with fine mosaics and frescoes; the intimate Rustem Pasha Mosque, noted for its very fine Isnik tiles set in a wide variety of beautiful floral and geometric designs; the Suleymaniye Mosque, an Ottoman imperial mosque and the largest in the city; the Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum, with displays of Islamic calligraphy, tiles, and rugs that depict rooms or dwellings from different time periods and regions; the wonderfully aromatic Spice Bazaar; and the Grand Bazaar, where 61 labyrinthine covered streets house more than 3,000 shops. Details and prices will be sent to confirmed participants. Grand Bazaar, Istanbul Program Rates Per person, double occupancy: $8,590 Per person, single occupancy: $9,750 Airfare U.S. domestic and international airfare is not included in the program rates. Round-trip economy-class airfare from New York to Istanbul with return from Yerevan, Armenia, is approximately $2,000 per person as of September 2013 and is subject to change without notice. On-tour airfare from Istanbul to Van is also not included and at time of publication was $300 per person. What to Expect This program is for active, curious, and adventurous travelers. In Georgia and Armenia, you will be exploring areas that are less developed for tourism and less accustomed to providing the levels of service and types of amenities that Western visitors generally expect. There are some long bus rides on far-from-perfect roads, and accommodations range from the five-star Hagia Hagia Sophia, Istanbul Sophia Hotel in Istanbul to more basic hotels in Georgia and Armenia. This is an opportunity, however, to visit places and see things that most travelers do not, and to learn about a part of the world that is rich in history and cultural traditions. Bring your spirit of adventure and an open mind and you will be richly rewarded. If you have any questions about your ability to participate fully on this itinerary, please call Yale Educational Travel at (203) In Turkey at this time of year, temperatures range from the mid 70sF to the low 80sF in Istanbul and from the low 60s to the low 70s elsewhere. In Georgia, temperatures range from the mid to high 70s. In Armenia, Lake Sevan is the coolest destination, with average temperatures in the high 50s, and Yerevan is the warmest, where temperatures may reach into the high 70s. You should encounter little rain throughout the journey. Group Size This program is limited to 30 participants. Responsibility Criterion Travel, Inc., acts only as an agent for the various independent suppliers and contractors providing transportation, hotel accommodations, restaurant, and other services connected with this tour. Such travel and services are subject to the terms and conditions under which such accommodations, services, and transportation are offered or provided and the Association of Yale Alumni and Criterion Travel and their respective, employees, agents, representatives, and assigns accept no liability therefor. The Association of Yale Alumni and Criterion Travel assume no liability for any injury, damage, loss, accident, delay, or other irregularity which may be caused by the defect of any aircraft or vehicle or the negligence or default of any company or person engaged in carrying out or performing any of the services involved. Additionally, responsibility is not accepted for losses, injury, damages, or expenses of any kind due to sickness, weather, strikes, local laws, hostilities, wars, terrorist acts, acts of nature, or other such causes. All services and accommodations are subject to the laws of the country in which they are provided. The Association of Yale Alumni and Criterion Travel reserve the right to make changes in the published itinerary whenever, in their sole judgment, conditions warrant, or if they deem it necessary for the comfort, convenience, or safety of the tour participants. They reserve the right to withdraw this tour without penalty. The right is also reserved to decline to accept or retain any person as a member of the tour, or to substitute another qualified leader or special guest. Baggage and personal effects are the sole responsibility of the owners at all times. The price of the program is given in good faith based on current tariffs and rates and is subject to change. Any tariff, exchange rate, airfare, or fuel increases will be passed on to participants. Neither the Association of Yale Alumni nor Criterion Travel accepts the liability for any airline cancellation penalty incurred by the purchase of a nonrefundable airline ticket. The air ticket when issued shall constitute the sole contract between the passenger and the airline concerned. As part of the consideration and right to participate in this tour, each participant will be asked to sign a liability release.

7 Reserve your trip to Explore the Caucasus today To reserve today, fax this reservation form to Yale Educational Travel at (203) to hold your space for one week, pending receipt of your deposit or credit card instructions. Please make your deposit check payable to Criterion Travel and mail it with this registration form to: Yale Educational Travel, Association of Yale Alumni, Box , New Haven, CT You can also make a secure reservation at payment Enclosed is my check for $ ($1,000 per person) to hold places on Explore the Caucasus OR Charge my deposit to: AmEx Visa MC Discover Diners Club Name on credit card credit card number exp. date security code Name #1 (as it appears on passport) Yale Affiliation Name #2 (as it appears on passport) Yale Affiliation street Address City / State / Zip Date of Birth Date of Birth signature as it appears on credit card Single Travelers I prefer to have single accommodations. I plan to share accommodations with I d like to know about roommates. I am a Non-smoker Smoker I understand that if a roommate cannot be found by the final payment deadline of February 21, 2014, I will pay the single rate. Accommodations Bed preference in hotels: (not guaranteed): One large bed Two beds I/We have read the Terms and Conditions section of this brochure and understand and agree with them as stated herein. Home phone work phone signature date Fax signature date Visit to book online or return the above form with credit card authorization or check payable to Criterion Travel to Yale Educational Travel, Association of Yale Alumni, P.O. Box , New Haven, CT Phone: (203) Fax: (203) Terms and Conditions Program Rates Include A comprehensive educational program by Yale lecturer and local guides All accommodations and meals as specified in the itinerary All excursions, including entrance fees, as specified in the itinerary Scheduled group arrival and departure transfers by motorcoach Baggage handling Gratuities to porters, wait staff, guides, and drivers Welcome and farewell wine receptions Bottled water at group meals and on motorcoach excursions Complete packet of pre-departure information Professional tour manager throughout Program Rates Do Not Include U.S. domestic and international airfare On-tour air from Istanbul to Van Passport and visa fees Medical expenses and immunizations Trip cancellation/interruption and baggage insurance Deviations from the scheduled tour Excess baggage charges Meals not specified in the itinerary Dishes and beverages not part of the included meals Liquor and soft drinks Private airport transfers Personal items such as room service, internet, telephone, and fax charges, laundry or dry cleaning, gratuities for non-group services, and other items of a personal nature Insurance Travel insurance for trip cancellation and interruption, medical problems, baggage loss and delay, etc., is highly recommended, and we hope that you will obtain it for this expedition. Trip cancellation policies that apply to this expedition are included in this brochure. Please be sure to carry the details of your travel insurance coverage with you on the program. Travelers are free to purchase the travel insurance of their choice. It is recommended tht travelers clearly understand the difference between primary and secondary travel insurance. Reservations & Deposits To reserve space, please complete the reservation form and mail it with your check or credit card information to the address at the top of the form. You may also fax the form to (203) and your reservation will be held for five working days pending receipt of your check or credit card information. If you have questions, please call (203) or margaret.carnright@yale. edu. Final payment deadline is March 21, 2014, 120 days before departure. Cancellations and Refunds Upon payment of a $1,000 deposit per person, all reservations are subject to the cancellation provisions set forth below and by which the passenger agrees to be bound. Cancellations shall not be effective until they are received in writing and confirmed by the Association of Yale Alumni. Deposits are refundable (less a $250 per person administration fee) if written notice of cancellation is received within 30 days of reservation; after that, Cave City, Uplistskhe deposits are 100% nonrefundable. Final payment is due March 21, 2014 (120 days prior to departure). Cancellations within 120 days of departure are 100% nonrefundable. For this reason we strongly urge participants to purchase trip cancellation insurance. If the program is cancelled by the Association of Yale Alumni or the tour operator, you will receive a full refund, without further obligation on our part. No refunds will be made for any part of this program on which you choose not to participate. Note: Neither the Association of Yale Alumni nor Criterion Travel, Inc., the tour operator, accepts liability for any airline cancellation penalty incurred by the purchase of a nonrefundable ticket in conjunction with this tour. Itinerary Changes The itinerary presented for this tour is subject to modification and change by the Association of Yale Alumni (AYA) and Criterion Travel (the tour operator). Every reasonable effort will be made to operate the program as planned; however, should unforeseen world events and conditions require the itinerary to be altered, AYA and the tour operator reserve the right to do so for the safety and best interest of the group. Any extra expenses incurred in this situation are the responsibility of the participant. Reservation Contact (203) or edtravel@yale.edu. For information on all YET programs, visit org. California Seller of Travel Program CST # Photo Credits (From Dreamstime.com): Van Lake Witr; Old Tbilisi Anna Bogush; Gelati Monastery Gelia; Yerevan and Mt. Ararat Pixcom; Ani Witr; Bosphorus Jasmina; Hagia Sophia Lefteris Papaulakis; Uplistsikhe cave Ilia Torlin; Avant-garde buildings Uzelfoto; Sanahin Monastery Izuminka. Grand Bazaar, Dmgultekin.

8 Association of Yale Alumni Box New Haven, Connecticut PRSRT STD U.S. Postage PAID Permit No. 604 Sacramento, CA Explore the Caucasus Turkey, Georgia & Armenia With Harvey Goldblatt / Professor of Medieval Slavic Literature July 19 August 2, 2014 Highlights of Explore the Caucasus AIR LAND Black Sea Kutaisi Gori GEORGIA Tbilisi TURKEY Kars ARMENIA Sanahin Monastery, Armenia Gain deep cultural context through the observations and insights of Yale Professor Harvey Goldblatt, long-time Master of Pierson College and expert on Slavic and Eastern European culture and literature. His recent courses include Old Russian Literature, Old Church Slavic, and Russian Culture Through Cinema. Cruise along the beautiful Bosphorus, strategically important since the days of Byzantium as a connecting link between the Black Sea and the Sea of Marmara. Dotted with beautiful Ottoman mansions, it flows around the Maiden s Tower, formerly a customs post that was used as a set in the James Bond movie The World Is Not Enough. Explore the troglodyte ruins of Uplishtskhe, an ancient rock-hewn town in Georgia whose structures, dating from the Early Iron Age to the Late Middle Ages, display a unique amalgamation of various rockcut cultures and pagan/christian architecture. ( F R O M I S T A N B U L ) Istanbul Black Sea TURKEY GEORGIA ARMENIA Marvel at the dramatically illuminated stalactites and stalagmites in Georgia s Sataplia Cave, as well as the dinosaur footprints in the surrounding Sataplia Nature Reserve. A section of the cave houses an enormous heartshaped stalagmite bathed in water streaming down from an overhead stalactite. IRA Dogubayazit Van Yerevan View Mount Ararat, the snow-capped dormant volcanic cone where, in Judeo-Christian tradition, Noah s ark came to rest after the great flood described in the book of Genesis, and whose image is incorporated into the coat of arms of Armenia.

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