ENCOUNTER NATE CAVALIERI

Transcription

1 CHICAGO ENCOUNTER NATE CAVALIERI

2 Chicago Encounter Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN Australia Head Offi ce, Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Vic 3011 % fax USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA % toll free fax UK 2nd fl, 186 City Rd London EC1V 2NT % fax This title was commissioned in Lonely Planet s Oakland offi ce and produced by: Commissioning Editor Jennye Garibaldi Coordinating Editors Michelle Bennett, Charlotte Orr Coordinating Cartographers Xavier Di Toro, Corey Hutchinson Layout Designer Nicholas Colicchia Senior Editors Helen Christinis, Katie Lynch Managing Cartographer Adrian Persoglia Cover Designer Katy Murenu Project Manager Rachel Imeson Managing Layout Designers Sally Darmody, Laura Jane Thanks to Sasha Baskett, Jessica Boland, Carol Jackson, Alison Lyall, Erin Richards ISBN Printed by Hang Tai Printing Company, Hong Kong. Printed in China. Acknowledgement CTA Map 2009 Chicago Transit Authority. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: Lonely Planet All rights reserved. HOW TO USE THIS BOOK Colour-Coding & Maps Colour-coding is used for symbols on maps and in the text that they relate to (eg all eating venues on the maps and in the text are given a green knife and fork symbol). Each neighborhood also gets its own colour, and this is used down the edge of the page and throughout that neighborhood section. Shaded yellow areas on the maps denote areas of interest for their historical significance, their attractive architecture or their great bars and restaurants. We encourage you to head to these areas and just start exploring! Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. Send us your feedback We love to hear from readers your comments help make our books better. We read every word you send us, and we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors. The most useful submissions are rewarded with a free book. To send us your updates and find out about Lonely Planet events, newsletters and travel news, visit our award-winning website: lonelyplanet.com/contact. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

3 THE AUTHOR NATEC AVALIERI As a kid, Nate remembers taking an elevator to the top of the City of Big Shoulders at dusk, peering out at the landscape of twinkling headlights, steaming factories and snow-covered lots thinking This is a city. Some 20 years later, standing in front of The Bean or the Hideout bar painted with a three-story mural of Barack Obama, that feeling of awe has only grown. A native of northern Michigan, Nate studied music and creative writing at Oberlin College, spent a few derelict years playing piano and organ in Chicago s clubs and lived in Chicago while researching Lonely Planet s 5th edition of Chicago. He is also the coauthor of Lonely Planet guides to Puerto Rico and California, and Volunteer: A Travelers Guide To Making A Difference Around the World. NATE ST HANKS Nate s been lucky to work under the good-spirited guidance of Jennye Garibaldi, who he taunted with s about country fried bacon. Alison Lyall and Sasha Baskett have been immensely helpful with technical aspects of the book, and Charlotte Orr made careful edits. Thanks to friends who made research a delight: Jesse, Ben, Katrin, James and Charlie. In addition to thanks, he owes Maria Krasinski a piece of French cookware and Rob Wildeboer a new bike. THEPHO TOGRAPHER Charles Cook has been a freelance photographer for 17 years and is based in the Chicago area. His first few years in the industry were spent working in commercial studios in Chicago. Since then he has concentrated on travel photography and has been contributing to Lonely Planet Images for nine years, with images published in several Lonely Planet guidebooks. Other clients include the American Automobile Association (AAA), Backpacker magazine, The Nature Conservancy, Sierra magazine and numerous others. Cover photograph Refl ecting on the city at Cloud Gate, fondly dubbed The Bean, Millennium Park, Stan Ries/Panoramic Images. Internal photographs p28 The Field Museum; p46, p88, p116, p123 Maria Krasinski; p94 The Dream of America: Swedish Immigration to Chicago Swedish American Museum in Andersonville. All other photographs by Lonely Planet Images, and by Charles Cook except p21 Ann Cecil; p15 Donald C. & Priscilla Alexander Eastman; p17, p23, p63, p143, p164 Ray Laskowitz; p8, p27, p32, p146, p162, p171 Richard Cummins; p19 Richard I Anson. All images are copyright of the photographers unless otherwise indicated. Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: CHICAGO >3

4 Leave your blues behind at this Chicago History Museum (p69) exhibit, Old Town

5 CONTENTS THE AUTHOR 03 THIS IS CHICAGO 07 HIGHLIGHTS 08 CHICAGO CALENDAR 21 ITINERARIES 27 NEIGHBORHOODS 32 >THE LOOP 36 >NEAR NORTH & NAVY PIER 48 >GOLD COAST 58 >LINCOLN PARK & OLD TOWN 68 >LAKE VIEW & WRIGLEYVILLE 78 >ANDERSONVILLE, LINCOLN SQUARE & UPTOWN 92 >WICKER PARK, BUCKTOWN & UKRAINIAN VILLAGE 100 >LOGAN SQUARE & HUMBOLDT PARK 112 >NEAR WEST SIDE & PILSEN 120 >SOUTH LOOP & NEAR SOUTH SIDE 130 >HYDE PARK & SOUTH SIDE 140 SNAPSHOTS 146 >ACCOMMODATIONS 148 >ARCHITECTURE 150 >FOOD 152 >SHOPPING 154 >VIEWS & VISTAS 156 >PUBLIC ART 158 >BARS 159 >CYCLING CHICAGO 160 >MUSEUMS 161 >A DAY AT THE BEACH 162 >PERFORMING ARTS 163 >CHICAGO WITH KIDS 164 >CLUBBING & NIGHTLIFE 165 >GALLERY DISTRICTS 166 >SPORTS 167 >LITERARY CHICAGO 168 >COMEDY 170 BACKGROUND 171 DIRECTORY 179 INDEX 187 Why is our travel information the best in the world? It s simple: our authors are passionate, dedicated travelers. They don t take freebies in exchange for positive coverage so you can be sure the advice you re given is impartial. They travel widely to all the popular spots, and off the beaten track. They don t research using just the internet or phone. They discover new places not included in any other guidebook. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, palaces, trails, galleries, temples and more. They speak with dozens of locals every day to make sure you get the kind of insider knowledge only a local could tell you. They take pride in getting all the details right, and in telling it how it is. Think you can do it? Find out how at lonelyplanet.com.

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7 THIS IS CHICAGO If there is anyone out there who still doubts that America is a place where all things are possible, begins Barack Obama, tonight is your answer. But in the frosty, electric air above Grant Park we re not just anywhere in America: we re in Chicago. After the tens of thousands hear their junior senator, a former community organizer in Chicago s checkered South Side, accept the highest political office, many walk in a daze up Michigan Ave under the towering night-lit monuments of the city in which they live, crying and laughing, elated and overwhelmed. Of course, no story of Chicago goes without being dichotomous opposites, and even as the afterglow of that evening faded, another brutal winter brought headlines of political scandal and economic asperity. But all the way down the line, the essence of Chicago has duplicity unlike any other American city a place where high- and lowbrow art makes a messy collision, where restaurants are equally notable for cutting-edge concepts like molecular gastronomy and burly bricks of sausage-stuffed deep-dish. Residents in the city that works play pretty damn hard too sprawling on sandy beaches, packing bars until 5am and whiling away an entire summer with outdoor festivals. But when you approach the heart of the city from one of the highways that connect it to the rest of the pancake-flat Midwest and its airports, the cluster of buildings that rises so dramatically above the glassy surface of Lake Michigan might well make you gasp. The clattering roar of the El train passing overhead announces that Chicago is seizing its moment in history. A place where all things are possible: this is Chicago. > THIS THIS CHICAGO IS CITY Top left Intimate indie rock venue Schubas (p91), Lake View Top right Frank Gehry s brilliant, metallic Jay Pritzker Pavilion (p10), Millennium Park Bottom Read all about Chicago s latest hero at 57th Street Books (p144), Hyde Park CHICAGO >7