Tsar/Somervell - Shackleton Group

Transcription

1 Tsar/Somervell - Shackleton Group The peaks of the Tsar/Somervell and Shackleton group are part of the larger Clemenceau Icefield set which are located between the Alberta-British Columbia divide on the east and the Columbia Reach of Kinbasket Lake on the west. Wood Arm, Wood River and its north flowing tributary, Clemenceau Creek bound the group on the north. The Sullivan River bounds the group to the south and southeast. The peaks of the larger Clemenceau Icefield area are shown on the 1:50,000 National Topographic Survey map sheets Sullivan River 82 N/13, Clemenceau Icefield 83 C/4, Fortress Lake 83 C/5, Wood Arm 83 D/1 and Athabasca Pass 83 D/8. Access: With the removal of critical bridges on the logging roads north of Bush Arm and on the Sullivan River, the Clemenceau Icefield/ Tsar Somervell area has reverted to true wilderness that is difficult to access except by protracted multi-day approaches from either the Columbia Reach or from the Icefield Parkway. Most climbing parties will chose to access the area using a helicopter. The area is roughly equidistant ( km) from the two closest commercial helicopter bases in Golden to the south or Valemount to the north. Camping and Bivouac Sites: At one time the Lawrence Grassi Hut was located in the headwaters of the Cummins River at an elevation of 2100m, map coordinates The hut was condemned and removed due to persistent problems with mould. There is a good bivouac site at approximately 2300m at the foot of the northwest ridge of Mount Shipton, map coordinates This site provides good access to Mount Clemenceau and Tusk Peak in particular. Over the years, a number of parties have camped in the broad col between Mounts Tsar and Somervell at an elevation of approximately 2190m. Good campsites can be found in the vicinity of two lakes on the east side of the col. The GMC will be located in alpine meadows on the west side of the col, overlooking Kinbasket River which is more sheltered and comfortable. The UTM of the basecamp will be Recommended Routes: 1. Pic Tordu West Ridge Mount Shackleton North Face 3. Mount Shackleton Traverse Tsar Mountain North Ridge (Normal) 5. Tsar Mountain East Ridge 5.9 PEAKS OF THE TSAR AREA 3146m Peak, which has been referred to as Mount Odell (CAJ 16:42), is located 4.4km south-southwest of Tsar Mountain at map coordinates When viewed from the north, the peak appears wedge-shaped with a sharp north ridge. The limestone strata dip steeply (>60 0 ) to the east while the western flanks are precipitous with much loose rock. There is a 2810m subsidiary summit 1.2km to the north. 1

2 There is a long ridge trending southeast of Tsar Mountain with several high summits between the Sullivan River to the east and a large glacier to the west. 2970m Peak (Coprolite) located 3.8km southeast of Tsar Mountain at map coordinates In 2007, a party found a sample of wolf (?) scat on the summit which was large, dehydrated and very hard, suggesting the name Coprolite (for petrified dung). South Ridge PD 4th Vic Bell, Doug Miller - August 19, Summit Register This party approached the area from the west to gain the foot of the south ridge, which was followed easily to the summit. Northwest Ridge F 4th Bruce Fairley, David P. Jones, Hamish Mutch, Kyle Ridge - July 17, 2007 From a bivouac west of Tsar, ascend the icefall and glacier to the north, traversing over 2910, thence across the glacier to the northwest ridge. Ascend the rocky ridge with little difficulty (except for care with sharp, fractured spikes of shale). 2910m There is a high glaciated [2850m] col approximately 3km south of Tsar Mountain between the north and south flowing glaciers. This peak is located on the eastern side of the col and 2.9km south of Tsar Mountain, map coordinates The peak is easily traversed from west, north and south. Tsar Mountain 3417m Tsar Mountain is a striking, pyramidal peak often seen in the distance and easily recognizable from the northern Selkirks. The peak is located near the southern end of the Clemenceau Group, map coordinates There is a minor 2790m sub-summit 2.0km to the east. Northwest Face AD 55 0 Alfred J. Ostheimer, Hans Fuhrer, Jean Weber - August 8, CAJ 16:38 Glacial recession has significantly modified the original route, which is no longer practical. The route ascended the main northwest ice face. At the crest of the west spur of the north ridge, the original route descended a short rocky gully to gain the main glacier (now a very steep descent of ~100m over very fractured, loose rock with no belay or rappel anchors). The route then followed the main glacier, ascending two ice cliffs to gain the upper snow field. The summit was climbed via the northwest ridge over rock and snow. Variant: AD m Gord Bose, Nicolas Jimenez, David P. Jones, Warren Wright - July 26, 2007 From the Tsar-Somervell col ascend snow slopes (mostly steep bare rock later in the season) to gain the crest of the west spur of the north ridge. Hike along the crest of the spur until it steepens into a face of the north ridge. Traverse almost horizontally along a rubbly ledge above the glacier for approximately 200m and a piton belay station, which is used to rappel (30m) to the glacier. Follow an ascending traverse towards the centre of the glacier and a steep snow and ice ramp that provides passage through the icefall on either side. Tricky route finding, climbing in and out of large crevasses and trending east as necessary leads to a second snow 2

3 and ice ramp beneath the north ridge. Follow this ramp to reach the upper glacier above the icefall. Traverse up and west, crossing several large crevasses, to the west ridge, which is ascended to the summit as in the regular route. Descend the route to the base of the rappel. Climb the steep, firm limestone headwall (difficult to protect) to reach the belay ledge. North Ridge (Normal) AD 55 0 George I. Bell, William V.G. Matthews, David Michael - July 30, AAJ 8(26):258 A highly recommend scenic route. Ascend the crest of the prominent north ridge to the summit glacier, which is passed on the right (west) by way of the northwest ridge. Ascent times vary from 4 to 6 hours. North Ridge Variant AD Glen Boles, Don Forrest, Bill Hurst, Roger Parsons, John Pomeroy, Gordon Scruggs August 3, From a high camp east of Mount Ellis, traverse the upper Tsar Glacier to gain the Tsar- Somervell col [2170m]. From the col, head south up snow slopes until able to traverse left (east) on easy rock and scree leading to steep snow slopes and the crest of the west spur of the north ridge. Follow the spur, with a couple of short steps and a bit of rotten rock, to its juncture with the main north ridge. Above it is possible to climb on the east flank, parallel to the ridge, regaining the crest below the summit via a steep snow and ice slope. Once on the upper glacier, traverse right (west) beneath a wall of seracs, cross the bergschrund and climb several short steep sections on the northwest ridge to the summit. Ascent: about 9-10 hours return to camp. East Ridge TD 5.9 Steve Sheriff, Gray Thompson - August 3-4, AAJ 37(69):178 Described as a classic ice, snow and rock ridge. Viewed from the summit of Tsar the route appears to have considerable loose rock. Approach the area via the logging road up Sullivan Creek (2 hours to a high camp from the vehicle). This road is now decommissioned and inaccessible. The route follows the easiest line up the ridge, occasionally diverging onto both the north and southeast faces. This party down climbed the north ridge, but not being familiar with the route, the descent required most of a day to reach the Somervell-Tsar col. Peaks of the Somervell-Ellis Area 3

4 3032m Peak located 0.82km south of Mount Somervell at map coordinates Mount Somervell 3105m This seldom climbed peak is named to commemorate Theodore Howard Somervell, a medical doctor and artist who participated in the early expeditions to Mount Everest. The peak is located 5.3km northwest of Tsar Mountain, map coordinates South Ridge PD+ 4th George I. Bell, John R. Rousson - July 29, AAJ 8(26):258; CAJ 37:101, 114 From the upper glacier, cross the bergschrund and ascend a prominent snow-filled couloir on the east face to gain the col between Mount Somervell and 3032m to the south. Follow the easy south ridge to the summit. Early in the season cornices on the ridge crest may threaten the route. East Face, Northeast Ridge AD m Reg Bonney, Jack Buck, Rick Collier, Ken Parker, Bob Saunders - August 8, CAJ 77:114 From a camp at GR , ascend bedrock and the Ellis Glacier to the Somervell-Ellis col [2750m]. From the col follow a narrow snow ridge to the southwest, eventually following a northsouth shelf onto the east face. Ascend the centre of the face up snow, rock and ice to regain the northeast ridge. Climb a series of short limestone steps and scramble to the summit. 2971m Minor sub-summit located 0.84km west of Mount Somervell, map coordinates There is considerable loose, broken rock along the ridge crest separating the two peaks. Mount Ellis 2954m Peak located 1.8km northeast of Mount Somervell, map coordinates This peak was named for Derrick Ellis, a pilot for Bow Helicopters, who lost his life when his helicopter crashed at Gold River in July Southwest Northeast Traverse F 3rd Glen Boles, Ron Matthews, Roger Parsons, John Pomeroy - August 4, From a high camp on the high glacier east of Mount Somervell, ascend to the Somervell-Ellis col [2750m]. Ascend the southwest ridge and descend the northeast ridge in 2½ hours. South Flanks F 3rd From the upper Ellis Glacier, ascend snow slopes directly to the summit. 4

5 PEAKS OF THE SHACKLETON GLACIER 2604m Isolated minor summit located 3.2km south of Mount Rhodes, map coordinates Mount Rhodes 3064m Mount Rhodes, named for Sir Cecil Rhodes, is located 6.1km west-northwest of Mount Somervell and 4.5km southwest of Mount Shackleton at map coordinates The limestone strata on the eastern flanks dip very steeply to the east. North Ridge PD 3rd Glen Boles, John Christian, Don Forrest, Peter Roxburgh, Gordon Scruggs - August 8, 1972 From the 2450m snow pass at the northeast head of Stanley Glacier, ascend heavily crevassed slopes to reach the Livingstone-Rhodes col [2910m]. Scramble up the north ridge to the summit in one hour from the col. Poor rock West Face F 3 rd August 1980 ACC Parties - CAJ 64:93 From the 2450m snow pass at the northeast head of Stanley Glacier and west of Mount Livingstone, traverse south and ascend a steep snow couloir on the west face. 2649m Peak located 1.6km west-northwest of Mount Rhodes at map coordinates m Peak located 2.4km west of Mount Livingstone, map coordinates Survey point probably climbed by the Topographical Survey. Mount Livingstone 3111m Peak located on the ridge between Stanley Glacier to the west and Shackleton Glacier on the east, 6.0km south of Tusk Mountain, map coordinates Generally poor rock on the west flanks. West Ridge PD 4th Don Hoover, Alfred J. Ostheimer, Hans Fuhrer - August 14, CAJ 16:40 From the 2450m snow pass west of Mount Livingstone, gain the sharp ridge and follow it over steep, broken rock to the top. Ascent: 4 hours from snow pass. Route definitely not recommended. South Ridge PD 5.3 Glen Boles, John Christian, Don Forrest, Peter Roxburgh, Gordon Scruggs - August 8, 1972 From a camp on Cummins Ridge, traverse south across Cummins Glacier, then hike up a rock strewn valley toward twin glaciers west of Mount Livingstone, which are divided by a rock rib. Climb half way up the west glacier, cross the rock rib to the east glacier and continue to the col [2450m] west of Mount Livingstone. From the col, ascend well-crevassed neve and ice to gain the base of the Livingstone-Rhodes col [2810m] and the base of the south ridge. Climb the 5

6 lower third of the ridge to overhangs, which are bypassed via ledges about 15m below and parallel to the ridge crest on the left (west) side. Ascent: 2 hours from the col. Fair rock, enjoyable Mount Stanley 3126m The north twin of Mount Livingstone and named after the famous reporter who went in search of David Livingstone, located 5.8km south of Tusk Mountain, map coordinates North Ridge PD 4th Mike Kingsley, Robin Lidstone, Jeff Mellor, Roland Reader, Peter Robinson - August 6, 1972 Following an ascent and traverse of Mount Speke to the north continue up the ridge to the summit. On descent, two 50m rappels were used to descend from the ridge to Shackleton Glacier. South Ridge PD 5.3 Glen Boles, John Christian, Don Forrest, Peter Roxburgh, Gordon Scruggs - August 8, 1972 From the summit of Mount Livingstone, descend its north ridge to the intervening col, then climb the south ridge to the summit of Mount Stanley. The main difficulty is an overhang on a minor intervening peak that can be tunnelled through. Ascent: 1½ hours from the summit of Mount Livingstone. Fair rock 2972m Peak located 0.74km north of Mount Stanley, map coordinates The name Mount Speke was not approved by the Geographical Names Committee because it is not deemed a separate and distinct summit. North-South Traverse Mike Kingsley, Robin Lidstone, Jeff Mellor, Roland Reader, Peter Robinson - August 6, 1972 From a high camp on the southeast ridge of Mount Shackleton, traverse Shackleton Glacier and climb to the lowest col [2870m] on the long ridge which extends south from Pic Tordu. Ascend firm rock to the summit then continue south toward Mount Stanley. 2990m Peak located 0.5km north of Mount Speke and 0.96km south of Pic Tordu, map coordinates Pic Tordu 3230m Named for the twisted and contorted rock on the peak, it is located 3.5km south of Tusk Mountain, map coordinates East Face, Northeast Ridge Mike Kingsley, Robin Lidstone, Jeff Mellor, Roland Reader, Peter Robinson - August 5, 1972 From a high camp on the southeast ridge of Mount Shackleton, traverse Shackleton Glacier to the east face. Climb a short, avalanche prone couloir to reach a broad shelf below the 6

7 bergschrund. Cross the bergschrund and climb the most southerly of a series of rock ribs leading to the northeast ridge, which is gained some 100m below the summit. Follow the exposed snow ridge to the top. Descend the route. West Ridge PD+ 5.3 Helmut Microys, Michael Rosenberger - August 7, CAJ 56:84 The west ridge, a long, difficult but interesting ridge, is the route of choice if based at the former site of Lawrence Grassi Hut, on Cummins Ridge or a camp near Mount Shipton. Climb the ill-defined introductory ridge to the subsidiary west peak (3070m). The ridge now becomes exposed and serrated. The rock is variable in quality because of the vertical alignment of the strata, but in general is surprisingly good. Ascent: 7 hours from the base of the ridge to the summit. In a remarkable tour de force, Microys and Rosenberger continued the traverse by descending the north ridge, making the first ascent of Cowl Mountain and then traversing all three summits of Mount Shackleton. East Face, South Ridge PD 4th Janice Isaac, Kim Kratky, Peter McIver, Peter Wood - July 25, 1977 From a glacier camp south of Mount Shackleton traverse west across the glacier to the large bergschrund on the east slopes of the objective. Cross the bergschrund and ascend the east slopes up a rock rib to the ridge crest gained where it is mostly horizontal. Continue along the ridge to the summit. Descend the northeast ridge to return to camp. Ascent: 5¾ hours from camp; 11½ hours return to camp. Cowl Mountain 3102m Peak located 1.8km west of Mount Shackleton and 2.8km south of Tusk Mountain, map coordinates West-East Traverse PD+ 5.3 Helmut Microys, Michael Rosenberger - August 7, CAJ 56:84 The peak was ascended and descended in the course of a traverse from Pic Tordu to Mount Shackleton. South Face F 4th Mike Kingsley, Robin Lidstone, Jeff Mellor, Roland Reader, Peter Robinson - August 7, 1972 From a high camp on the Shackleton Glacier, traverse the glacier to the Shackleton-Cowl-Tordu basin. From the basin ascend the south facing slopes directly to the summit. 3309m Sub-summit 1.1km northwest of Mount Shackleton, map coordinates Mount Shackleton 3327m 7

8 A prominent, massive wedge-shaped peak named for the famous Antarctic explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton. The peak bounds the northern rim of Shackleton Glacier and is located at map coordinates The summit ridge is over 1½ km long from the northwest summit (3309m) to the central and highest summit to the southeast summit (3327m). Northwest Ridge George I. Bell, David Michael - July 14, AAJ 8(26):258; CAJ 37:114 The primary problem lies in finding a route through the spectacular and dangerous icefall which descends north between Mounts Tusk and Duplicate. Two climbers were killed here by falling seracs in The best lines lie generally to the left (east) on or near a dark streak. Once in the basin below the mountain, climb steep snow to gain the northwest ridge some 200m below the west summit, which is then attained over a steep snow crest. The ridge connecting to the central and highest point, while narrow and exposed, is straightforward. Few cornices are encountered on this route. Variant PD+ 5.5 Robert Kruszyna, Art Maki, Jack E. Taylor - August 5, CAJ 66:93 This long and non-trivial approach makes it possible to climb Mount Shackleton from the Lawrence Grassi Hut. Climb the rock headwall 1.5km east of the Grassi Hut to the right (south) of the icefall dropping from the glacier lying between Pic Tordu and Shipton-Irvine ridge; rock climbing to 5.5 on steep, friable rock (2½ hr from hut). Cross the glacier to gain the Shackleton-Tusk col (1½ hour). Above the col climb snow, scree covered ledges and vertical cracks on the west face to surmount a steep step and easier terrain leading to the northwest summit. Any remaining difficulties are easily managed on the north side of the ridge. This approach also seems to give access to the Shackleton-Tordu col. It is possible to reach the Shackleton-Irvine col by descending snow and unpleasant down-shelving slabs from the Irvine- Tusk col. North Face AD m Michael Heath, Bill Summer- August 21, AAJ 18(46):140 The route on the north face of the central summit lies just to the right of a prominent rock-ribbed buttress. It may be reached, as in the first ascent, by traversing in from the Shackleton-Tusk col [2770m], or by the Duplicate-Tusk icefall. The face presents 400m of 55 0 to 60 0 water ice, giving a fine climb but subject to considerable rock fall. Southwest Ridge Helmut Microys, Michael Rosenberger - August 7, CAJ 56:84 The Shackleton-Cowl saddle is most readily reached from the south by ascending Cowl, or on a traverse from Pic Tordu. Ascend the ridge directly to the northwest peak of Shackleton, from which the main summit is easily gained. There is one difficult vertical step near the top of the ridge. Ascent: 2-3 hours from the saddle. 8

9 Southeast Peak 3327m Northwest Ridge Helmut Microys, Michael Rosenberger - August 7, CAJ 56:84 A large rock gendarme with vertical west and south faces, just beyond the main summit constitutes a formidable obstacle in the traverse from the centre peak to the southeast peak. Traverse a narrow band on the gendarme s very exposed north side (rotten rock) and work into the col beyond (from which it could be climbed). Ascend a short vertical rock step and continue along a more or less level section of ridge with two pitches of ice/snow to the summit. Descend the snow and steep rock of the northeast ridge to the Shackleton-Sir Ernest col in 3 hours more. Traverse PD+ 5.5 Helmut Microys, Michael Rosenberger - August 7, m This attractive snow peak, occasionally referred to as Mount Sir Ernest, is located 1km northeast of the southeast summit of Mount Shackleton, and separated from it by a very steep ridge, map coordinates West Face F 3rd E. Rex Gibson, Sterling B. Hendricks, Robin C. Hind, Jack Southard - July 16, 1936 AAJ 3(9):48; CAJ 24:61 Approach was made via the Duplicate Icefall, ascending to the col between Duplicate and Mount Sir Ernest. Following an ascent of Duplicate Peak, the northern flanks of Mount Sir Ernest were traversed to reach the Shackleton-Ernest col. The west face is a straightforward snow climb from the col in one hour. Northeast Ridge F 3rd ACC party - August CAJ 56:83 Gain the col at the head of the Duplicate Glacier [2970m], whence the northeast ridge provides a clean, enjoyable route to the summit. Duplicate Peak 3150m Duplicate Peak consists of three glaciated summits: southwest Summit 3150m at map coordinates ; Centre Summit 3150m at map coordinates and the northeast summit 3102m at map coordinates South Ridge F 3rd E. Rex Gibson, Sterling B. Hendricks, Robin C. Hind, Jack Southard July 16, AAJ 3(9):48; CAJ 24:61 Reach the Duplicate-Sir Ernest col [2970m] either via the Duplicate-Tusk icefall or from the south via Clemenceau Glacier. From the col, the easy ridge is climbed to the summit in ½ hour. 9

10 Northeast Peak via North Ridge Helmut Microys, Michael Rosenberger, Ted Turner - July 30, CAJ 56:83 Avoid the vertical lower section of the north ridge by climbing on the right (west) side. Once on the ridge, climb several small vertical steps and then a prominent ice slope (to 45 0 ) which leads directly to the summit. This party continued by traversing the peak and descending the south ridge. Ascent: 13 hours round trip from a camp below the east face of Mount Clemenceau. 2820m Snow dome located 2km southeast of Duplicate Peak and 2.9km southwest of Apex Mountain, map coordinates Mount Norton 3109m Mount Norton is located on the rocky ridge south of Apex Mountain which separates Apex Glacier to the east from Clemenceau Glacier to the west. The peak is located 2.25 km southsoutheast of Apex Mountain and 6.8km east-northeast of Mount Shackleton, map coordinates North Ridge F 3rd Alfred J. Ostheimer, Hans Fuhrer, Jean Weber - August 6, 1927 CAJ 16:37, 56:83 From the Apex-Norton col [2950m], the summit may be reached in one hour along the ridge crest. The western and southern slopes offer other feasible routes but the east face is shear. Apex Mountain 3250m Apex Mountain, located 1km west of the Alberta-British Columbia boundary, is so named for it forms the hydrological apex of the Clemenceau, Shackleton and Apex glaciers. Map coordinates South Ridge Allen Carpe, Henry S. Hall - August 16, AJ 35:48; CAJ 13:90 From Clemenceau Glacier, ascend the gentle south ridge, over easy scree and rock near the summit. North Ridge Lucio Mondolfo, Vittoria Mondolfo, Louise Roloff - August 11, CAJ 48:117 From the col, ascent the north ridge directly to the summit. Southwest Ridge Helen Butling, John Christian, Ilse Newberry, John Peck - August 1972 CAJ 56:83 Follow the crest of the ridge. Nearing the summit traverse left (north) and ascend the northwest face to the top. 10

11 PEAKS OF THE TUSK AREA Mount Irvine 3065m Peak located 1.9km southwest of Tusk Peak, map coordinates Earlier guidebooks referred to this peak as Mount Chettan with Mount Irvine being the next 3049m peak to the east. Peak named for Andrew C. Irvine who perished with Mallory on Mount Everest in North Slope F 3rd E. Rex Gibson, Sterling B. Hendricks, Robin C. Hind, Jack Southard - July 12, 1936 CAJ 24:59 From the glacier in the Shipton-Tusk cirque, ascend the north slopes directly to the summit. East-West Traverse Charles Fay, Jr., Robert Kruszyna, William T. Sharp - August 12, CAJ 48:117 From the glacier in the Shipton-Tusk cirque, ascend to the minor point (Tilman), east of the Mount Irvine. Follow an enjoyable snow ridge to the top and descend rock to the Shipton col [2930m]. Ascent: 5hours from the base of Tusk Mountain. Tusk Peak 3362m Prominent Matterhorn-shaped summit 4.5km south of Mount Clemenceau and surrounded by the Cummins, Tusk and Duplicate glaciers. Map coordinates South Ridge PD 5.3 John de Laittre, W. Rupert Maclaurin, Alfred J. Ostheimer, Hans Fuhrer - July 31, 1927 CAJ 16:33 The original ascent party gained the 2990m col between Tusk and 3095 via Duplicate Glacier; due to hazards of the Duplicate Icefall, this col is usually gained from the west. Climb the rock of the south ridge (one difficult step) or traverse onto the snow of the southeast slopes. Ascent: 2 hours from the col; 10 hours return to the Lawrence Grassi hut. Northwest Ridge AD 5.4 George I. Bell, John R. Rousson -July 18, AAJ 8(26): 257; CAJ 37:114 The northwest ridge is a long rock route. The quality of rock is poor in the lower sections but improves on the final exposed 300m leading to the summit. Descend via the south ridge and west face. The long southeast trending ridge of Apex Mountain forms the western rim of the Apex Glacier, west of the divide. There are a number of peaks along this ridge. 11

12 Mount Clemenceau 3664m Mount Clemenceau is the dominant peak in the area and the fourth highest summit in the Canadian Rockies. Located at map coordinates West Face Dana B. Durand, Henry S. Hall, William D. Harris, Henry B. De Villiers-Schwab - August 9, 1923 AJ 36:132; CAJ 14:18 A classic snow and ice route of great character. Unfortunately the Tiger Glacier no longer connects with the Tusk Glacier and the lower reaches of the Tiger Glacier are extremely broken such that passage to the upper reaches of the glacier may no longer be possible. The route ascends Tiger Glacier which lies on the westerns slopes of Mount Clemenceau. Follow an ascending traverse from lower right (southwest) to upper left (northwest). Pass through the lower band of cliffs and crevasses to gain a great basin. Work left up a steep slope to reach a col just above a small snow hump on the subsidiary west ridge. Continue up to a broad bench which lies below and parallel to the main summit crest. Traverse left (north) along this bench to the northwest ridge, which is followed to the top. Ascent: hours return to Grassi Hut. First Winter Ascent Gary Bruce, Doug James - February 6, 1976 A full on adventure that required nine days start to finish using wooden skis and travelling very light with no tent and using only half bags. From the Sunwapta parking lot on the Icefield Parkway approach via the Sunwapta and Bush rivers leading to a snow cave at the base of the Tiger Glacier on the fourth day and the summit on the sixth day. South Ridge PD+ 4th Felex Largiader, Helen Largiader - August 8, CAJ 48:116 Initially follow the west face route to near the great basin, where it is possible to work right (south) and ascend steep snow to the prominent shoulder of the south ridge. Follow the heavily corniced ridge to the summit. Ascent: 9 hours from the base of the peak. Northeast Ridge ED2 Dennis Eberl, Paul Jensen, Tobin Kelly, Gray Thompson, Jim Wilson - August 13, 1980 AAJ 23(55):123. The northeast ridge is the curving ridge which extends eastward from the summit and then turns and drops northward. The route is comparable to the Wishbone or Emperor ridges on Mount Robson. Approach from the east across the valley of Clemenceau Creek to place a high camp below the ridge. Ascend a 500m ice face to gain the ridge proper. Continue along the ridge, easily at first, to a flat area suitable for a bivouac. The final part of the ridge is heavily corniced to the north and very steep on the south where the snow is unlikely to be stable. Near the summit, there is a pitch on a 5m vertical knife edge of snow. Northwest Ridge TD m Dane Waterman (solo) - September 18, 1987 CAJ 73:67 12

13 A major route in a remote, wilderness setting. This route was reached after a 5-day walk-in. Climb the steep lower part of the ridge by carefully working from ledge to ledge. Bypass the initial cliff barrier by climbing a wall about 100m right (west) of the ridge but safely left of the obvious dangerous fall line from ice cliffs above. Above the cliff, follow ledges back and up to the ridge. First climb the right side of the ridge then cross over and ascend the face on the left side of the ridge. The zig-zag section leads to the base of the long (250m) moderate ice face at the far right end of the north face. Climb the ice face to gain the gentle summit ridge, which is followed to the top, bypassing any difficulties on the right. Descend the route, avoiding the ice face by descending extremely rotten gullies on the west side of the ridge. Ascent: 12 hours return to a bivouac in the talus at the base of the ridge. North Face TD- Gil McCormick, Tom Thomas, Ken Wallator- February CAJ 71:93 The north face is reputed to be comparable to the north face of Mount Robson. No details provided. West Ridge AD 4th Richard Gebert (solo) - July 29-30, CAJ 91:140 Sprague Bay, a BC Forest Service Recreation site 16km north of Mica Dam on the Columbia River, north of Revelstoke was used as the staging point for this ascent. From Sprague Bay, canoe or boat 24km across the reservoir to a camp on the east side of the upper Wood Arm ( ). Gain the main logging road and follow it north a short distance to a spur road that climbs up the valley due east of the confluence of the Wood River and Wood Arm. Near the limit of logging is a 300m steep section featuring a cliff band of smooth rock. Bypass the rock band by traveling southeast up a smaller tributary that leads to the 2130m pass leading to the Cummins River. From the pass, contour northeast to a good bivouac site at Continue contouring north and east or descend and cross the intervening valley to gain Cummins Ridge, which can be followed south to the former site of the Lawrence Grassi Hut. Cross the Cummins Glacier and ascend Tusk Glacier to the pass at its north head, then turn east and contour across rock outcrops to the north tongue of the Tiger Glacier. Cross the flat glacier and ascend the drainage north of the seracs, staying left of a sharp buttress and gain the crest of the spur leading to the west ridge. Ascend the south flanks of the spur to avoid some of the rock daggers on the spur crest. Continue up the rock spur until it peters out but it is possible to gain the upper Tiger Glacier. Weave through some crevasses to reach the upper bench and the normal route leading to the summit. Reconnaissance Ridge is a long ridge, south and west of Mount Clemenceau, oriented northwest-southeast with three peaks. Easily accessible from the Lawrence Grassi Hut. 13