REPORT for Championships of Mountaineering of Baltic States Khan-Tengri and West-Pobeda 2008

Transcription

1 REPORT for Championships of Mountaineering of Baltic States Khan-Tengri and West-Pobeda 2008 alpinism.ee 1

2 Club MTÜ Matkamise ja Mägironimise Edendamise Klubi Passport Class of the route s High altitude category (climbs over 6000 m) Region of the route s Tian-Shan mountain system, Kokshaal-Too range, South- Inilchek Summit 1, it s height, routs name Khan Tengri (Han Tengri) 6995m, Tien Shan, West Ridge (normal route from South) [Хан-Тенгри, Высота 6995, Сложность 5А, Характер маршрута комбинированный, Маршрут ЮЗ склону, Руководитель М. Погребецкий, 2 alpinism.ee

3 1931 (М. Погребецкий, Ф. Зауберер, Б. Тюрин)] First ascent First ascent of the Khan-Tengri was made on by Mikhail Pogrebetsky s Ukrainian team from the south, along the west ridge Grade of difficulty 5A (RUS) - (~F - AD+) Summit 2 it s height, routs name West-Pobeda or Vaja Pshavela (6918 m), from Dikij Saddle, Medzmarizhvili classic up to West-Pobeda [Победы (3), Высота 6918, Сложность 5А, Характер маршрута комбинированный, Маршрут С ребру с пер. Дикий, Руководитель Д. Медзмариашвили, 1961] Grade of difficulty 5A (RUS) First ascent First ascent was made in 1938 by three members of the A. Letavet s expedition L.Gutman, Y. Ivanov and A.Sidorenko who succeeded to summit a unclimbed peak which they named 20-летия ВЛКСМ and measured it s height 6900 meters. Latter first official ascent to the of mountain was made on 1956 by V. Abalakov team and this ascent is still recognised as first ascent. Participants Kristjan Erik Suurväli - leader Urmas Peiker (summiteer of Khan-Tengri) Priit Joosu (West-Pobeda (Vaja Pshavela) 6918m) Hannes Oja(West-Pobeda (Vaja Pshavela) 6918m) Priit Simson Priit Rooden Khan-Tengri via West Ridge from South set of pictures from basecamp, from top to bottom: alpinism.ee team in Karakol bazaar; BC proviant tent; Team in Maida-Adyr; BC sauna; Urmas takes everyday medical procedures - measures blood pressure and SPO2 3

4 Urmas made Peak Khan-Tengri round trip with 58 hours Height difference 2900 m, including approach frombasecamp (4100m). Relief, state Glacier, rock and snow, partly snow cowered ice, ice Khan Tengri Peak (7,010m) - is part of the Tengri- Tag Ridge. The Tengri-Tag Ridge forms a natural barrier between the two brother glaciers, South- Inilchek glacier (60.5km long) and North-Inilchek Glacier(32.8km). 4 The West Ridge of Khan Tengri is a classic route. Basecamp is situated on the meeting point of the South-Inilchek glacier and Zvozdochka Glacier. From Basecamp to Shubin s stop (C1-4200m) is about 2 hours walk on the South-Inilchek glacier on its left side. C1 is situated at the foot of the long gully (Semenovskogo glacier) that is the first

5 part of the route up Khan-Tengri. From C1 route turns left to the Semenovskogo glacier up to C2 ( m). This part of the route has to be done very early at the morning because avalanches from Mt. Chapaeva (6,371 m) are frequent. Glacier can be quite broken and in the steeper sections of the icefall ropes are fixed. C2 is situated at the Semenovskogo glacier. There is several good campsites for tents, which is protected from avalanches. Ascending in icefall under Chapajev Peak C2 5300m C3 5800m under Col From C2 to C3 is easy scramble on snow and ice, only threath may be hidden crevasses. There is possibility for snowcaves and tents. From the snow caves (near the West Col) (C3)a 100m steep snow/ice slope, which is fixed with rope, leads up to the West Col (6000m). The Col is narrow and heavily corniced and the top of the fixed ropes should be carefully noted. A traverse along the Col leads to the mixed ground of the West Ridge where the angle ascent angle goes steeper. The route then follows the West Ridge via a number of small bivouac sites at 6200m, 6400m and 6700m. Each campsite accommodates one tent. The West Ridge rises from the West Col, alpinism.ee 5

6 covered with snow is marked with a metal tripod. Acclimatization period view from C3 to summit pyramid which is very enjoyable, straightforward scrambling for the most part, with steep rocky steps linked with snow patches. There are a couple of sections, which require careful ascending; such as the vertical rock step of about 50ft at 6,800m, and the knife above it. Almost the entire ridge is fixed with rope. New ropes were fixed at 2007, with ropes donated by company Mammut. Although ropes were in good condition one has to take outmost care as their condition and the anchors are variable. The route follows the crest of the ridge with snow and scrambling interspersed with steeper rock sections until 6,700m. Here a traverse turns slightly right across snow slopes, then reaches a steep rock step of some 20m. Rock step is severe in standard. Above the rock step route climbs into a snow basin and then traverses out rightwards again to exit onto a short steep knife edged snow ridge of some 50m. Ridge is very exposed. This is followed leftwards to a steeper section of mixed ground. Above this, the fixed rope ends. After that follows around 300m of easy snow climbing for half an hour to reach the summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome. Therefore the rock summit, which is also summit Team made acclimatization on the Khan-Tengri peak. Khan- Tengri was chosen because it is more easily approachable then Pik Pobeda. Also there is quicker and easier possibility to achieve enough height to acclimatize properly. Khan-Tengri rout was familiar to team members from year from Basecamp to Shubin stop (C1), good weather and nice easy tempo; work 2,5 h C1 during the night and on the morning snowfall with strong winds, no visibility. Team stayed at C1. Priit Simson descended to Basecamp due to severe tooth pain. Kristjan-Erik, Hannes and Urmas accompanied him to the BC and climbed up to C1. Poor visibility during the glacier travel rest of the team ascended to C2 at 5200 meters, good weather, minor snowfall. work 8,5 h C2 walk to the 5500 and back team ascended to C , snowfall started at 14.00, work 3,5 h

7 we planned to take a radial walk up to 6400 but weather conditions were very bad no visibility and snowfall. So we stayed at tents early morning start and descend to base camp. During the acclimatization period team slept in the tents. Han-Tengri (7010m) summit Urmas s route times Technical equipment In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice axe is sufficient, although the ski poles are useful. Ascender (jumar), rappelling device, self-belay system, seat-harness. Chest-harness for glacier travel and helmet are good option, but can be skipped. Many climbers did not take ice-axe as well, but it is not recommendable. Description of the route West-Pobeda around 21:00 left from Basecamp around 24:00 in Shubin stop (C1) 4200 m 4h :00 left from C1 to C2at 08:00 in C2 lunchbreak at 13:00 in C :00 left from C3 to the summit around 13:30 at the summit of Khan Tengri back at basecamp Whole round trip from basecamp to basecamp 58 hours and 30 minutes, from which approximately 11 hours of sleeping time. Expedition s main aim was Jengish Chokusu 7439m (Pik Pobeda). Jengish Chokusu situates in the Kokshaal-Tau ridge in its eastern end past Sary-Zhaz River valley. Offical hight of Pik Pobeda (7,439 m) was measured in 1943 by the expedition lead by P.N.Ropasov, Russian Soviet military topographer. From the Base camp opposite the Gorkii peak route turns from the South-Inilchek glacier to the Zvezdochka glacier. At the beginning route travels on the east side of lateral 7 moraine till the bend of the glacier. From there the Zvez-

8 dochka has huge open crevasses which as to be avoided by zig-zag travel, from one side of glacier to other. At the bend of the glacier turn right towards Dikij pass. The first camp is beneath the Dikij pass. There is an avalanche danger from the Dikij pass and ice falls from the Northern wall of Pobeda Peak. A walk from the Base camp beneath Gorkij peak to the C1 on the Zvezdochka glacier beneath the Dikij pass is 5-10 hours. Altitude is 4400 m. Ascend to the Dikij pass. A walk up the slope to the icefall is 1 hour, along the icefall 2-4 hours, ascent to the mould of the hanging glacier beneath the Dikij pass. A walk along the glacier (5-10 degrees) to the Dikij pass is 1 hour. Ascent up the snow-ice slope (30-40 degrees) to the pass is 1 hour. It is possible to make a snow hole and pitch tents (C2, 5200 m). The most difficult and dangerous part of this route is an icefall and ice walls 20 m high. There is fixed ropes. From the C2 (Dikij pass) follow wide snow ridge to the C3, which is near the rock walls. Altitude is 5900 m m. Overnight in tents or in cave. There is an avalanche danger when heavy snowfall! m - ascend along the ridge of rocks C3 at 5800m and C4 at 6400m 8

9 Marble rockband at 6700m mixed with snow-ice places. The rocks are of 3-4 class of difficulty, snow-ice places are of 2-3 class. The steepness of the ridge is degrees. There are good places for pitching tents after first rock zone at an altitude m, 6200 m, 6400 m, before black triangle at an altitude 6600 m and higher 6700 m (Camp4). Ascent to this part of the route may take from 8 to 16 hours, depending on weather and other circumstances. Difficulty is 3-4 by UIAA. From the C4, higher from the black rock triangle the route goes to the West-Pobeda Peak (6918 m) in 4-8 hours, the steepness is degrees, and class of difficulty is 2-3. The route crosses snow and ice fields with some rock islands. It is better to pitch a camp in the mould of one of the Southwestern summits of Peak Neru 6744m from West-Pobeda 9

10 WEST-POBEDA 6918 Hannes Joosu ascending to West-Pobeda, directly behind him is Dikij Glacier and further right is Zvezdochka Joosu exhausted in snowhole 6900m 10

11 the West-Pobeda. There is enough place in the mould to pitch a tent or make a hole. C5 (6900 m). Difficulty is 4-5 by UIAA. Our team ascent to Pik Pobeda was intterrupted at the altitude of 6918 m on West-Pobeda or Vaja Pshavela due to bad weather conditions. Hannes Oja and Priit Joosu spent 4 nights at the West-Pobeda after what descended in critical condition. Hannes Oja and Priit Joosu route times Hannes, Joosu and Kristjan-Erik start from BC after breakfast. At the halfway to the C1 Kristjan-Erik turns around, Hannes and Joosu continue to C1 work around 8h bad weather Hannes and Joosu stay at the C stove dies in C1, Urmas and Kristjan-Erik will deliver new stove Hannes and Joosu ascend to C2 at Dikij Pass (5300m), lot of jumar work Hannes and Joosu start at 8:00 to ascend to C3 at m and arrive 13:00 good campsite rest day in C Hannes and Joosu ascend to C4 at 6400m Hannes and Joosu ascend to C5 at 6900m and reach to West- Pobeda Hannes and Joosu stay at C4 due to bad weather Hannes and Joosu stay at C4 due to bad weather. They are unable to stay at tent because heavy snowfall and dig a snowhole. Hannes gets heavy frostbite on both hands; Hannes and Joosu stay at C4 due to bad weather, Hannes and Joosu stay at C4 due to bad weather, situation gets critical. Rescue works are planned and organized in basecamp. Also Ukranian summit team at 7100m and second team at 6900m are in bad situation, Hannes and Joosu attempt to descend, but there is no visibility and they have to abandon the attempt Hannes and Joosu descend rapidly to C1. Urmas and Kristjan-Erik meet them at C1. Joosu and Urmas carry onto BC, Hannes and Kristjan-Erik stay overnight at C1 and descend early morning on 16th team fly s out to Maida-Adyr and reaches by evening to Karakol alpinism.ee 11

12 Date July August BC Acclimatisation 1 - Simson turns around & leaves C1 Hannes, Joosu summit bid 2 - Kristjan-Erik turns around C2 Urmas Khan-Tengri acent 3 - Rooden leaves C3 Urmas, Kristjan-Erik meet 4 - Hannes & K-E stay overnigt at C1, Joosu &Urmas decend to BC C4 Hannes, Joosu planned summit bid C C1 C2 C3 BC C1 C2 C3 C4 C Tallinn Bishkek 6000 Karakol Maida Adõr Basecamp Khan Tengri Basecamp Pobeda Summit attack Pobeda up to 6918 Vaja Pshavela 8000 Acclimatisation Rest Summit period Urmas Khan-Tengri summit 7010 altitude Khan-Tengri and West-Pobeda 2008 altitude graph