TRAVEL GETTY IMAGES 106 NOURISHMAG.COM.AU

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1 TRAVEL PERU GETTY IMAGES 106 NOURISHMAG.COM.AU

2 LAND OF CONTRASTS WHILE SUPERFOODS DOMINATE THE WESTERN INTERPRETATION OF MANY PERUVIAN INGREDIENTS, AS A DESTINATION, PERU IS BECOMING INCREASINGLY EPICUREAN. Words: WINSOR DOBBIN Photography: GETTY, THINKSTOCK, WINSOR DOBBIN NOURISHMAG.COM.AU 107

3 Peru is one of the most diverse landscapes on earth, from snow-capped mountain ranges to the smothering tropical humidity of the Amazon jungle to milder, drier climes on the coast. The country s varied climate means a plethora of different produce can be grown locally including 3000 types of potatoes. But Peru is about more than just potatoes. It is the home of ceviche, the pisco sour and exotic ingredients such as quinoa, maca, lacuma and blue corn foods that were once unknown outside of South America that are fast becoming world-renowned. But a wide range of local ingredients still exist outside the spotlight. You just have to know where to find them. Local food While our love affair with quinoa began with superfoods salads, in Peru it s often consumed as a drink or fermented as chicha, a rustic beer. Maca a vitamin-rich native fruit grown at 4000 metres above sea level, popular for its caramel-like flavour is known as the Peruvian natural Viagra. At its core, our appreciation of these foods is the same, although the methods are vastly different. Among the many unfamiliar superfoods on offer is muña, pronounced moon-ya. This plant grows all over the Andes and is used to treat everything from headaches to altitude sickness, and is often served WINSOR DOBBIN Corn of may many colours as a tea. Maiz morado, the Spanish term for Peruvian purple corn, is used to make a sweet drink called chicha morado. The purple corn is boiled with pineapple, cinnamon and cloves to produce a deep purple, aromatic beverage that s antioxidant and a natural anti-inflammatory. For the adventurous of palate there is also the chance to sample a local delicacy, guinea pig (many families keep a few dozen for special occasions and they are usually served on a skewer) and even alpaca, which is Pisco sour Anticuchos THINKSTOCK THINKSTOCK served in a variety of ways, but often as part of the local dish lomo saltado a kind of Peruvian stir fry, traditionally served with both french fries and rice. This unique contrast of Chinese/ Cantonese is known as chifa, brought to Peru after large Chinese settlement in the 19th and 20th centuries. Dishes that visitors will almost certainly find as they traverse this very large country include ceviche, raw fish marinated in citrus juice, a firm favourite in the capital, Lima. 108 NOURISHMAG.COM.AU

4 There s also causa, a cold casserole of potatoes and avocado; aji de gallina, a creamy chicken stew made with aji amarillo peppers; skewers of marinated meats (usually beef hearts) known as anticuchos and stuffed peppers called rocoto relleno that are a speciality of the second city of Arequipa. Peruvian cuisine tends to be tasty rather than spicy, and prices are generally low so it s always worth experimenting. Pisco is the national drink. This potent grape brandy is shaken with citrus juice, egg white, sugar syrup and prodigious amounts of pisco to make the popular pisco sour cocktail a must try. A cook places final touches on a dish created by Peruvian nikkei chef Mitsuharu Tsumura Fine dining At the core of Peru s fine dining scene is a unique mishmash of influences from ancient Inca culture to the Central chef Virgilio Martinez CRIS BOURONCLE/AFP/Getty Images CRIS BOURONCLE/AFP/Getty Images culinary undercurrents leftover from Peru s colonial past. Spanish rule (from around 1532 to 1821) made a significant mark on Peru s food scene, as has the aforementioned settlement of Chinese. However, it s not unusual to see elements of African, Japanese and Italian cuisine as well. Peru s wide range of fresh and often unique ingredients that can be grown locally has seen the capital of Lima transformed into a culinary hotspot, with three Peruvian restaurants listed in the World s 50 Best Restaurants in This includes Central (ranked at number four) where chef Virgilio Martinez is known for a menu that fuses local ingredients with modern culinary techniques. They re calling it a culinary expedition through Peru s ecosystem, from the Amazon to Pacific coast, with their tasting menu beginning at 20 metres below sea level and travelling all the way up to 4100 metres above. THEY RE CALLING IT A CULINARY EXPEDITION THROUGH PERU S ECOSYSTEM, FROM THE AMAZON TO PACIFIC COAST They also bottle their own ozonated and purified water on site. Central has been the top restaurant in South America for the past three years, with Maido the runner up. Ranked 13 th in the world, Maido specialises in nikkei cuisine a blend of Japanese and Peruvian. The 15-course nikkei Experience menu explores Peru s unique biodiversity, combined with rare ingredients and cooking techniques from the Amazonia jungle. The last jewel in Peru s worldranked restaurant crown is Astrid y Gaston. In 2015 its founding father, Gastón Acurio, returned to the kitchen after several years flying the flag for Peruvian cuisine in restaurants around the world. Astrid y Gaston is known for fusion food, with an increased focus on produce sourced from the wider Lima area. He also has affordable offshoots called ChiCha in Cusco and Arequipa. NOURISHMAG.COM.AU 109

5 Six Top Destinations in PERU From ancient Inca civilisations to the rainforest jungles of the Amazon, to the desert wilderness of high-altitude Andean villages and the colonial Europeanstyle architecture in cities like Lima and Arequipa, Peru is a world in one country. Photography: THINKSTOCK Lake Titicaca Well worth a long trip, this huge lake straddles the border between Peru and Bolivia in the Andes and is one of South America s largest lakes. It is regarded as the world s highest navigable body of water. Take a charter boat from Puno to the floating islands, as the Uros Islands are known. These are man-made islands constructed out of reeds where villagers take the many visitors on short canoe rides and try to sell them locally-made goods. Further into the lake you ll find the small hilly island of Taquile, where there are no cars and people still live a traditional lifestyle. Machu Picchu The spectacular and well-preserved UNESCO World Heritage site is one of the most famous icons of the former Inca Empire. Dating back to the mid-15 th century and completely awe inspiring, it is one of the most famous and spectacular sets of ruins in the world. It is best to arrive early in the day (stay overnight in Cusco to be just a short bus ride away) to avoid the crowds. And come well prepared as there is a considerable amount of walking and climbing involved. Cusco This spectacular city, high in the Andes, is one of South America s treasures with its many colonial buildings and Inca treasures like the Temple of the Sun and Sacsayhuaman Fortress. A tourist hotspot, Cusco is packed with high-quality hotels like the fabulous JW Marriott, recently named as one of the finest on the continent. The PeruRail Vistadome train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, gateway to Machu Picchu, is a lovely experience with great views and fabulous service, which included an impromptu fashion parade by train staff on our return journey. 110 NOURISHMAG.COM.AU

6 Arequipa Peru s second city is often overlooked in favour of more tourist-oriented destinations. That s a huge pity as Arequipa is a wonderfully cosmopolitan and elegant city with colonial buildings reminiscent of some the finest cities of Europe. There are superb squares and alleyways with influences of Spain and Paris, excellent eateries (try ChiCha and La Benita) and magnificent viewpoints a great city for strolling and/or chilling out for a few days. Red onions, corn, alfalfa, garlic and, of course, potatoes, all thrive in the desert environment. Colca Canyon A couple of hour s drive outside Arequipa, this is one of the world s deepest and most spectacular canyons and one of the best places on earth to observe condors and other birds of prey, which use the thermal currents to soar and dip. The Cruz del Condor is where we saw five condors and several hawks. En route, you ll see wild vicunas, the siblings of domestic alpacas and llamas, and will pass several traditional villages, as well as Lagunillas, a lagoon packed with Andean flamingos. Pisac Market Every Sunday, members of the tribes of the Sacred Valley of the Incas descend on the small, dusty town of Pisac for the regional market. Many walk long distances to reach the market, and wear traditional costumes. The market specialises in fruits, vegetables and meats, along with ceramics and items made of alpaca wool. It is a riot of colour and well worth a visit. Good to know With 40 years of experience, Contours Travel is Australia s most experienced and longest running Latin American travel wholesaler and agency, specialising in tailor-made, small group itineraries and special interest tours in Mexico, Cuba, Antarctica, South America, Central America and the Caribbean Islands. contourstravel.com.au LATAM operates daily flights from Sydney to Santiago, Chile, via Auckland, with onward connections to Lima. LATAM also offers non-stop flights between Sydney and Santiago four times per week in a codeshare partnership. latam.com The writer was a guest of Contours Travel NOURISHMAG.COM.AU 111