THE UNIVERSITY OF AUCKLAND

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2 THE UNIVERSITY OF AUCKLAND LIBRARY FINE ARTS LIBRARY Unless this book is returned ON or BEFORE the DATE stamped above FINES will be charged. PAYTON. E. W. 83/l/56070l/o/oi

3 art P347 Round about New Zealand University FINE ARTS LIBRARY of Auckland UNIVERSITY OF AUCKLAND LIBRARY

4 94

5 ROUND ABOUT NEW ZEALAND

7 This book was added to the stock of the University of Auckland Library in 1983 the year in which the University celebrated its centenary and the library acquired its millionth volume.

8 REWIMANIAPOTO

9 ROUND ABOUT NEW ZEALAND BEING NOTES FROM A JOURNAL OF THREE YEARS' WANDERINGS IN THE ANTIPODES BY E. W. P A Y T O N " Was It the ties of friendship that I formed there? or was it the grandeur and peculiarity of the natural features of a country, appearing in its isolation like a world of its own, that attracted me so strongly? I cannot say; but I still look back with enthusiasm to my stay in the Antipodes." Hochstetter. WITH TWENTY ORIGINAL ILLUSTRATIONS BY THE AUTHOR LONDON: CHAPMAN & HALL LIMITED 1888 All rights reserved

10 University of Auckland Library P347 RICHARD CLAY & SONS, LIMITED, LONDON & BUNGAY,

11 Dedicated (WITHOUT PERMISSION) TO K. E. C.

13 PREFACE. THE following pages are mainly the result of a Diary kept during three or four years of wandering in New Zealand. My aim has been only to describe and illustrate the many curious and beautiful scenes it has been my fortune to see in this land of natural wonders and magnificent scenery. I have ventured very little into the "have beens" of the Colony, preferring to confine myself as much as possible to present times and my own experiences. The "good old days" of New Zealand have had ample justice done to them by such accomplished writers as the Rev. R. Taylor and Judge Maning; but the present times have been left too much to the mercies of that meddling and iniquitous being the scribbling Globe-trotter, who after spending

14 viii PREFACE. to the public a treatise on the political history, manners and customs, geology, and every other feature of the land he has "rushed." Many changes have taken place since some of these chapters were written, but in these cases I have added notes to bring the accounts up to the present day. I owe an explanation to my English readers for introducing here and there words in the Maori language instead of the English equivalents. I have not. done this without reason. It is always the custom in New Zealand, especially in the North Island, to use Maori words frequently in referring to the natives and their doings; and a colonist would no more dream of calling a Maori whare a house, " or a tangi "a ceremony of weeping, " than he would of saluting Tawhiao as King of New Zealand. I am indebted to the proprietor of The Field for his kind permission to include in these pages several letters that were written for that paper. Windsor, October, E. W. PAYTON.

15 CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE I. MELBOURNE TO DUNEDIN II. THINGS IN GENERAL III. DUNEDIN IV. CHRISTCHURCH AND WELLINGTON V. A COURSING MATCH VI. THE WAIRARAPA TO AUCKLAND, via NAPIER... VII. AUCKLAND VIII. AUCKLAND PROVINCE... IX. A PICNIC AT HUNUA X, WAIWERA XI. OHINEMUTU XII. ROTOMAHANA XIII. OHINEMUTU TO TAUPO XIV. TAUPO TO NAPIER XV. AUCKLAND TO LYTTELTON, via NELSON XVI. LYTTELTON TO INVERCARGILL XVII. LAKE WAKATIPU XVIII. THE WEST COAST ROAD XIX. WELLINGTON TO WHANGANUI XX. THE WHANGANUI AND THE KING COUNTRY...

16 X CHAP. XXI. XXII. XXIII. XXIV. CONTENTS. THE WHANGANUI AND THE KING COUnTRY (continued) TARANAKI LABOUR SPORT XXV. THE NATIVE RACE XXVI. SOCIAL PAGE APPENDIX. I. ERUPTION OF TARAWERA 345 II. ROTOMAHANA REVISITED 351 III. STATISTICS OF THE COLONY 365

17 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. REWI MANIAPOTO Frontispiece ON THE "70-MILE BUSH" ROAD, WAIRARAPA to face p. 46 KAURI PINE, WAITAKEREI 35 FEET IN CIRCUMFERENCE 68 TREE-FERN AND NIKAU PALMS 80 OHINEMUTU 100 A MAORI BATH, OHINEMUTU 106 MOUTOA ISLAND, ROTORUA LAKE, FROM OHINEMUTU 112 TE TARATA, ROTOMAHANA OTUKAPUARANGI, ROTOMAHANA " THE REMARKABLES" (HECTOR MOUNTAINS) LAKE WAKATIPU LAKE WAKATIPU, FROM QUEENSTOWN MOUNT EARNSHAW LAKE WAKATIPU MAORIS CANOEING ON THE WHANGANUI 242 " HURIWHENUA, " KEPA'S COUNCIL-HOUSE AT RENANA VI TOMB OF A MAORI CHIEF, PIPERIKI, KING COUNTRY 256 THE GORGE OF THE UPPER WHANGANUI, KING COUNTRY 262 TAUMARUNUI, KING COUNTRY NGAURUHOE, FROM MATAHANEA, KING COUNTRY 280 A PA ON THE URENUI RIVER 296 THE ERUPTION OF TARAWERA, SKETCHED TWO DAYS AFTER THE OUTBREAK 346

18 LIST OF MAORI WORDS USED IN THE FOLLOWING PAGES, WITH THEIR MEANINGS. aitua, a Spirit of ill omen. haeremai, a salutation of welcome. haka, a native dance. hapu, section of a tribe. hauhau, a native religion. huia, a bird. Neomorpha Gouldii. kahatuai, a fish. kainga, a settlement, village. kiwi, a wingless and tailless bird. Apteryx. korowai, a flax mat ornamented with black threads. korrero, a speech, conversation. koura, cray-fish. kuku, native pigeon. ktiniara, a sweet potato. mana, influence, authority. mere, a stone weapon, moa, an extinct bird. Dinornis. muka, prepared fibre of flax. pa, a settlement, village; properly a fortified place. pakeha, a foreigner. pakeha-maori, a white man living with the natives. pi-pi, a shell-fish. puia, a warm stream. pukeko, a water-hen. Porphyria melanotus. rangatira, chief, gentleman. raupo, bulrush, used for building. rongoa, medicine. taiaha, a long wooden weapon. taipo, evil spirit, devil. " taniwha, a fabulous reptile. tapu, sacred. taro, a plant used for food. tenakoe, the usual Maori greeting. tohunga, priest. lui, parson-bird. Prosthemadera novae Zelandiae. tupara, gun (from the English word "two-barrel"). whakaahua, to take likenesses, photograph. whari, a house, hut. wharepuni, a large hut for sleeping in. ivhariki, mats used for carpets. TREES kareao, supple-jack, a climbing-plant. kauri, a pine tree. Dammara australis. manuka, a shrub. Leptospermum scoparium. miro, a tree. Podocarpusferruginea. AND nikau, a palm tree. Areca sapida. ' SHRUBS. rata, a tree. Metrosideros robusta. tawa, a tree. Nesodaphne tawa. ti, commonly known as the cabbage tree. toetoe, a plant resembling Pampas grass. totara, a tree. Podocarpus totora.

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