Trip Report Covering Mozambique/Malawi/Zambia/Botswana 2008

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Cecily Barton
5 years ago
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1 Trip Report Covering Mozambique/Malawi/Zambia/Botswana 2008 March 21 April 12 Danie and El Marie Pauw - LR 90 and Bosvark. Steven Bailey and family - Hilux and Bushpig Kev McQueen and family Mazda [joined in SLNP] Mike Howlett and family - Cruiser 70 and B%&#@ Trailer This year the education authorities graced us with a 3 week vacation around Easter which suited us very well. It is my son s matric year and the rest of 2008 will be devoted to studies [I hope]. We decided to explore Malawi by way of Mozambique and take in South Luangwa National Park [as we were so close] and return via Botswana. Day 1

The SAP roadblock at the Rio Maputo was negotiated without any hassles and we arrived at Catembe joining the long queue for the ferry.

2 We left early Friday morning arriving at the Kosi Bay border post at about 9AM after refuelling at Manguzi. The queues were long and the border crossing took a good couple of hours in the blazing heat. The SAP roadblock at the Rio Maputo was negotiated without any hassles and we arrived at Catembe joining the long queue for the ferry. The SAP had advised us that the ferry was a better option than driving around via Boane as the road was in a bad state. We waited about two hours for our turn to board and squeezed on trailers and all. The bay was rough with a wind blowing and when disembarking I clouted the tow bar quite hard on the quay side. We carried on through Maputo onto the EN1 and slowly made our way to Marracuene and Casa Lisa for our overnight stop arriving early evening. Good accommodation in rustic chalets, nice people and a good dinner.

The last part of this journey is on a sandy road which will take about 2 hours.

3 Day 2 & 3 The next morning we left early for another long day, destination Pomene which is about 100kms South of Vilancoulos [as the crow flies]. The last part of this journey is on a sandy road which will take about 2 hours. The final couple of kms can be under water at high tide. The Pomene Lodge and campsite is well worth the journey.

We spent two nights here and used the time to potter around and visited the old Pomene hotel which is now a ruin.

4 It is situated at the end of a sandy peninsula, white sand, the sea is warm and blue and it is set about with casuarina trees and coconut palms. I embarrassed myself getting well and truly stuck in the sand outside reception. We spent two nights here and used the time to potter around and visited the old Pomene hotel which is now a ruin. At one time this landmark enjoyed fame as the holiday home of Samora Machel but suffered into disuse during the civil war. We were told that a big resort group has bought the land to build a 5 star establishment, what a pity.

5 Day 4 We left early on 24 th to drive to Gorongosa National Park. Crossing the Save river bridge is a photo opportunity you don t want to miss, as is the bridge across the Pungue which you cross shortly before you reach the Gorongosa turn off. We arrived at last light but were told at the gate that the park was closed and only due to open mid April. After some back and forth with the HQ on the radio they agreed to let us in for the night to sleep in chalets. We drove through to the camp and were quickly hustled into the reception office on arrival. There were 6 lions walking around [inside the fence among the chalets] and the staff were very nervous. The accommodation was great, the staff welcoming and helpful and they even fed us in their canteen / restaurant. Day 5 As the park was closed we set off the next morning and drove to Tete via Chimoio where we had planned to camp on the Zambezi river. We arrived at Tete in good time, crossed the river and found the recommended Jesus e Bom campsite situated amongst shacks on the rivers edge. It was really not

Day 6, 7 & 8 The next morning we left crossing the river for the third time and heading out for Malawi. The border crossing was long and with lots of admin.

6 suitable or pleasant and we turned around and re-crossed the river to find the Tete motel where we booked in for the night. We certainly had a pleasant evening, cooking in the car park and eating with a nice view of Tete and the river. Day 6, 7 & 8 The next morning we left crossing the river for the third time and heading out for Malawi. The border crossing was long and with lots of admin. Eventually we got clear of the border post with the aid of a tout who I paid US$20 for his assistance. If you travel this way be careful of the insurance salesmen. Check the rate before you travel with the Prime Insurance office

This place is a real jewel with lake side camping, fish eagles overhead and friendly coconut palms waving a greeting.

7 in Blantyre or Lilongwe. The border salesmen will charge you double and even issue you a bogus receipt. When I started phoning the head office in Lilongwe the price was halved. We drove via Balaka and Mangochi to The Nkapola Lodge camping site. This place is a real jewel with lake side camping, fish eagles overhead and friendly coconut palms waving a greeting. We spent the next three days resting and relaxing. Visited Monkey Bay [not worth the trouble] popped into Fat Monkeys [nice place] and Club Makakola which was extremely pretty. Very few tourists to be found. I don t know if it was time of year? but it was very nice anyway.

Day 9 & 10 We then moved on to Senga Bay near Salima and stayed at the Cool Runnings campsite. Another great find and we were very happy here for two nights.

8 Day 9 & 10 We then moved on to Senga Bay near Salima and stayed at the Cool Runnings campsite. Another great find and we were very happy here for two nights. We made a boat trip to one of the islands and snorkelled with the tropical fish. One night we booked dinner at the resident restaurant which was excellent. The pub has a nice aspect serving MGT. [Malawi Gin and Tonic to be recommended] We met two interesting men who were travelling from Europe to Cape Town on motor bikes, A Ducatti and a KTM. Travelling light takes on a new meaning. Day 11,12,13 & 14 We departed Senga Bay and headed off to Zambia via Lilongwe where we stocked up on meat and fuel. We travelled to Chipata with a border crossing which was long and tedious. The road from Chipata to S.L.N.P is about 120kms of dirt. The first half is not bad but the second half is in really bad condition and takes at least two hours.

We spent four nights here in total and made a night drive and a day drive into the park.

9 We found Wildlife camp at around sundown and settled in. This is a really great spot right on the bank of the Luangwa river. The sunsets are spectacular and there is a swimming pool with a bar in walking distance. We spent four nights here in total and made a night drive and a day drive into the park. There is also a small shopping centre with a hand made/ hand painted textile factory which was a great hit. Our friends the McQueens from Durban joined us on day two. They had travelled up via Botswana and Mazabuka where some of their family are on a contract with the sugar mill.

10 We popped into Flatdogs which has new owners now that Jake is semi retired but preferred the Wildlife campsite over Flatdogs which is set. Day 15 & 16 We had to tear ourselves away from SLNP but eventually did so and drove a full day to Bridge Camp where the T4 crosses the Luangwa river some 200 kms short of Lusaka. It was a nice spot but really just an overnighter. We left the next morning and drove via Lusaka [where we stocked up] to Kariba, Sinazongwe Harbour. We camped on the waters edge at the Lake View Restcamp where the campsite is no longer in use but a Chalet was opened up for us to use the ablutions. Day 17 & 18 Next morning we reported to the Houseboat Company down the road and boarded our accommodation for the next two nights. This is a must do if you are in the area and travelling in a group big enough to carry the boat hire of US$1050 per night. We had booked this well in advance and it was a real highlight of the trip.

11 The boat has 14 double cabins, three decks and a nice bar and dining area. There is a fully equipped galley with Frank the resident cook. We had booked self catering which meant that we brought our own food and drink but had Frank and his team cooking etc. We sailed to Chete Island which took about three hours and pulled up on the shore for a pleasant afternoon and evening with a booze cruise thrown in on the large tender boat. Croc viewing from the same tender later that night. The houseboat has a large gas braai which saw a fair bit of use cooking the excellent fillet and rump steak from Zambeef in Lusaka. The next morning we travelled to another smaller island where we tied up for the night and had a repeat performance with the braai. This must be how the rich people live.. Day 19 & 20 It had to end and we returned to Sinazongwe where we unpacked / repacked and drove onto Livingstone where we had planned to stay at Maramba River Lodge.

Having arrived early, we hit a few curio shops and bought a few odds and ends. Pleasant evening and early visit to the falls the next morning.

12 They no longer offer camping so we tried the Waterfront very full and lots of Overland trucks. We ended up at the Bushfront campsite which was very nice and very few patrons. Having arrived early, we hit a few curio shops and bought a few odds and ends. Pleasant evening and early visit to the falls the next morning. We then packed up and hit the road to Kazangula, crossed on the Ferry and drove down to Kasane to re-fuel and buy meat. The Botswana border post is a very pleasant change after Mozambique, Malawi and Zambia. We then drove onto Hunters Road and got to Kazuma Pan at last light.

13 This is another magnificent camping spot and we sat around the campfire enjoying our last night camping in wild Africa. Day 21 The next morning we drove onto Francistown and camped at the Marang Hotel Campsites. This is a very nice campsite with good facilities. Day 22 From there it was downhill all the way to Koro Koro lodge near Warmbaths / Bella Bella. This is recommended with nice campsites and chalets. Day th April found us freewheeling back to Durban after a most successful holiday. 1] I recorded 6,978 kms and 936 litres of Diesel. [13.9l per 100 kms] Landrover did 11.84l per 100kms, Mazda did 10.6l per 100kms. Hilux did 12.5l per 100kms. 2] One puncture on the road from Chipata to SLNP. 3] Both shocks sheared off on my trailer, one got lodged between the frame and the tyre destroying a brand new tyre. 4] Meat is cheap in Malawi and Zambia. 5] Diesel is very expensive. Zambia was about R14 l.

14 6] We were stopped at many roadblocks in Mozambique, Malawi and Zambia. Always very pleasant. No funny business. No asking for money etc 7] The Zambian Houseboat Company is excellent and recommended. 8] All the places we stayed were excellent without exception. 9 SLNP is very expensive in terms of gate entry which is US$30 per person and US$15 per vehicle. Get value by doing the night drive and following day drive.[the 24 hour entry permit covers both] 10] Livingstone museum on main street is worth a visit.

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