Trip report 5 of 6 Botswana leg - Cape Town to Cape Maclear in 3 months, Apr-Jun 2011

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1 Trip report 5 of 6 Botswana leg - Cape Town to Cape Maclear in 3 months, Apr-Jun 2011 Background: Family of 6 - Wendy and I, plus Rebecca (12), Peter (10), Matthew (6) and Gabriella (3) on a 3 month sabbatical which we called our African Adventure. [See Trip Report 1 for more background info and general points. Report 2 = Mozambique leg. Report 3 = Malawi leg. Report 4 = Zambia leg. Report 6 = SA inbound leg.] A land of contrasts with lots of sand in between. Lush Chobe river in the north Unique Okavango Delta in the middle Dry Molopo riverbed in the south Route through Botswana: entry from Zambia at Kazangula Kasane Linyanti (Chobe) South Gate (Chobe) Maun exit to SA at McCarthy s Rest. [See map at end.] Dates: Botswana leg: 9 20 June 2011; Overall trip: 4 April 27 June 2011 Vehicle: Discovery 3 (2005) TDV6 2.7l with Jurgens XT140 Trailer. Road/Vehicle Challenges in Bots: (1) Got stuck in the sand, big time, in Chobe between Ghoha gate and Linyanti. The whole belly of the car was beached like a whale. It happened so quickly, the sand was getting deeper and in longer stretches, and because of the undulations and bumps it was pretty tough keeping the momentum up with the trailer kicking like a mule and the kids in the back seat being bucked like they were on a bronco. So we landed in the deep stuff and the wheels were just spinning. It took 1.5 hours to dig out. The shovel was not enough. Providentially we had a staff which proved very useful to get the sand out to a place from where the shovel could be used. Wendy did a great job braving the wild to fetch branches and logs and layed them as tracks for the tyres to grip onto (yip, no sand boards in our gear). Our tyres had been 1.5 bar, but we now deflated them to 0.8 bar. Fortunately no elephants or lions arrived on the scene. (2) We dented the rim of the trailer wheel probably in some pothole on the road from South Gate to Maun. This caused air leakage from the tyre which we only noticed when we pumped the tyres up. We fixed it easily thanks to a pro-jack and a bit of hammering at a tyre shop in Maun for P50. Road update: The good news (depending on which way you look at it) is that the road from Kachikau to Ngoma is now brand new tar (good news for fuel consumption, bad news for driving action). We met some guys who were very tight on fuel, and one who was very relieved to know that the tar started as early as this, since there is no fuel between Maun and Kasane. Incidents/Corruption: none to report. Botswana looks crime and corruption free. It can be done. Even the poaching had been nailed thanks to anti-poaching military units we saw one of these on the Chobe river. But apparently there is some cattle theft.

2 Cash: VISA worked at ATM s without fail and could use at shops and lodges. Plenty of ATM s in Kasane & Maun. Fuel: Cheapest fuel of all 5 countries by far (15-20% cheaper than SA). Good supply but only in Kasane and Maun as far as Moremi & Chobe driving is concerned. Therefore jerry cans or long-range tanks are essential. Also consumption goes up a lot in the sand, so need to take care. Food/Shops: Kasane and Maun are major tourist centres so are well stocked. The red meat was superb. Got some amazing steaks at the Ki Rra Nama (butcher) in Maun much cheaper than Spar or Choppies, as well as at the Supermarket in Tsabong. We got T-bone and rump steaks for less than half the price we would have paid in SA, and the quality was good. Just watch out for the vet fences - you can t take fruit (incl. tomatoes) or red meat through the vet boundaries in a southerly direction, but you can take it through when travelling north. And there are plenty of these fences. On our route we encountered them at the border (Kazangula), Buffalo Gate (from Moremi to Maun) and another one south of Ghanzi. So if travelling south eat up in Kasane and Maun, and restock in the next zone. Malaria: see Trip Report 3 on Malawi. A few mozzies in Maun in June, but we left them behind there when we headed south into the drier areas. The trip report stuff: Kazangula (border entry): Once we were on the Botswana side it was straightforward immigrations, carbon tax, customs for cars, take the car through the foot & mouth disease dip, and step onto the mat for shoes (incl. any spare shoes you may have been using in Zambia) and we were on our way. Kazangula to Toro Safari Lodge, Kasane (4 nights): This was a very long day all of 10 kilometres. We had time to check-out all the campsites advertised in the guidebook and noticeable from the road: Chobe Safari Lodge, Thebe Safari Lodge, Kubu Lodge and one or two others, and we settled on Toro Safari Lodge for a few reasons private ablutions for each campsite, no baboons anywhere near, spacious shady sites (unlike CSL which was a bit cramped campsites that is). Apparently there is a campsite in Kasane that has nice grassy sites but we only heard about this later and you don t move camp once it is up at least not ours. Sorry, forgot the name. We settled into our new camp, gathered info and checked out Kasane and surrounds. We met a whole herd of Sable crossing the road to the gate at Sidudu (again outside of the so-called game reserve). We contacted SKL & Kwalate Safaris (2 of the Botswana camp companies that manage the Moremi & Chobe campsites) because we needed to change our bookings because we were a few days ahead of schedule. We got Linyanti on the new date instead of Savuti (pre-booked), and we were advised to take South Gate instead of Xakanaxa because we wouldn t make the distance in a day from Linyanti due to access through Kwai/North Gate being cut-off due to high waters. We were a bit disappointed at first, but part of our deal with ourselves was that in embracing the real

3 bushcamping experience we limit ourselves to only 2 nights, since it is a bit stressful having to keep a 3 and a 6-year old in the car most of the day, and then on a tight leash around the campsite. When they are older we can go for longer. Anyhow, once we had the adjusted plan all sorted, it was time for our day pass into Chobe and explore the river front by car and later that day by boat with a sunset cruise. Our game drive started nice and early. We enjoyed the sunrise at the animal s prime drinking spot on the Chobe river, but we were too early and it was quite cold. When we came back to this same spot later that afternoon by boat, there were an abundance of visitors several herds of elephant & a large herd of buffalo, a giraffe getting down into his groovy position, sable antelope, and lots of others too. But the highlight was encountering our first pride of lions. First two males, and then 4 females with 2 cubs. They were about 1km apart down the road from each other and fortunately both near to the road, just lazing in the morning sun, or a bit of shade. Once we had filled our tanks on this pride of lions, we decided to head back to camp since our two youngest were getting a bit wrestles in the car. And on the way back we stumbled upon a 2 nd pride of lions. This time two lionesses with two cubs. They walked right up to the road where we had stopped, and crossed right in front of us. Very special indeed. Our first lion that the whole family saw - we waited long and worked hard for this. The rest of the pride (4 females and 2 cubs) were about 500 metres down the road. These two cubs were following their mothers up from Chobe river. The cutest things, especially as they stumbled hesitantly over the tracks in the sandy road. Peter took these photos. Back at camp, we were buzzing from such amazing action, and it had been a long wait to see these elusive cats at last. And just when we thought the day couldn t get any better, it did. The sunset

4 cruise down the Chobe river was an amazing experience and yet another big highlight in an already highlight packed African Adventure. Kasane and the boat cruise is a must do. Elephant wading and at times swimming across Chobe river, using his trunk as a snorkel. Only the big bulls make it across to the juicy grasses in the middle. We had a fantastic time with our captain, David, in his smart and intimate 7-seater boat. Game viewing at the river edge was exceptional. This Sable was very watchful: crocs in river and lion in bush no wonder. Kasane to Linyanti, Chobe National Park (1 night): Linyanti was very remote and quiet (only 3 campsites) with a lovely view over the Linyanti river & flood delta including some hippos that came up to say hello. But not a lot of game drive options from here. Just the road in from Ghoha gate and then a road out to Savuti (or they other way around if you prefer) and they are very sandy so you have to keep up momentum for most of the way, otherwise you will be digging or getting out those sand boards. An average road in Savuti & Linyanti area we were so stressed out when we got stuck we forgot to take pics. But it was quite a bit deeper and bumpier than this. Recovery after the ordeal of digging out. Glad to make camp that night. Sunset from Linyanti campsite. A very remote and special place only 3 campsites. Linyanti to South Gate, Chobe (1 night): It took us 10 hours to get from Linyanti to South Gate with a brief tea stop at Savuti and stopping along the way for any interesting game viewing. South Gate was larger and more spacious than Linyanti. The ablution was first class (unlike Linyanti which had a clumsy shower setup) and the hot water was in good supply. This was the best and longest shower I had in 3 months. You have got more game drive options from South Gate but the best ones all head towards the 4 bridges and Xakanaxa. The route through Savuti was not as sandy as the Linyanti roads, but still needed some concentration and soft tyres.

5 The big event of our South Gate stay was when a hyena paid us a visit. Despite us sitting around a roaring fire and it still being fairly early in the evening, this hyena was roaming nearer. I first noticed her whisking behind our tent. I hurried the family into the tent, and packed the rest of our things away that I thought she may come for. She watched me from 30 metres while I did this. Once I was in the tent, she waltzed through the camp looking for anything and knocking over cups and pots. She proceeded to puncture our 20l water can. Why on earth did she think there would be something to eat in the water can? I think they are just curious scavengers and bite and chew things just because they don t know better. It sure is a nuisance. An RTT would have been nice that night. Fortunately we had been warned to strictly have no food in our tent, because she sniffed right around our tent, so much that our son could smell her foul stench. Advice: lock all food, pots, pans, cups, water cans and everything else in the car/trailer when you go to bed, just to be safe. We enjoyed the delta pans and waterholes of Moremi, but our experiences of the game drives along the Chobe river a few days earlier were far superior to those around Linyanti, Savuti and South Gate. Peter helping me to refuel at South Gate. South Gate to Okavango River Lodge, Maun (5 nights): After using our jerry cans to fill-up, we headed off for more game driving and then a slow meander down to Maun. We checked out all the best/recommended campsites in Maun (about 5 or 6 of them) just like we had done in Kasane. We settled easily on Okavango River Lodge as our favourite which funnily enough had also been our choice from website searches. (So sometimes you can get it right from a distance). ORL s only downside like Audi camp is that it is a little bit close to the main road and light sleepers complain about the trucks that come past, but the road isn't actually that busy. I think ORL might have been a bit more expensive than the others (P60 pppn and half-price for under 12 s if I recall correctly) but their nice grassy riverfront campsites are the best. That time of year (June) and this year in particular, the water level was very high, so it is right up to the edge of the higher campsites. Their lower campsites have been under water for the last 2 years now.

6 Gabi & Matt having a ball at Okavango River Lodge. Our full camp set up for longer stays like this. We enjoyed exploring Maun and just catching our breath after two days of wild adventure in Chobe and Moremi. Maun is laid back and there is not much to do there except prepare for your next expedition in whatever direction. Peter with a pike he worked hard to catch at Okavango River Lodge lures and spinners didn t work, it took dad s homemade bait using bread, curry & egg. Friends we made along the way. This couple is from Austria and they drove all the way here. Left in Jan 2011 and will reach Cape Town in Sep 2011, where we have planned a reunion braai. We overlapped a few times from Malawi to Botswana. You see Toyota and Land Rover can get along. Maun to McCarthy s Rest and Bokspits (1 night at Sprinbokpan): We travelled fairly comfortably from Maun to McCarthy s Rest in a day. The border now closes at 6pm since the local business folk made appeals. We got to McCarthy s Rest/Rust border post by 5.30pm despite our delay in leaving Maun due to our damaged rim on the trailer wheel, this was still pretty good time (+/- 8½ hours including short stops). The border was quiet, clean and peaceful. I like this kind of a border. We breezed through both sides and it was so good to see the Welcome to South Africa sign again. We spent a lovely night at the very hospitable guesthouse at Springbokpan about 6km from the border post. We were expecting gravel roads the next day to Twee Rivieren according to the maps that we had, and that were the most up-to-date maps available. But the owners of Springbokpan enlightened us that there was a brand new road on the Botswana side that would take us all the way

7 to Bokspits. So the next day after a hearty cooked breakfast, we knocked a bit on the tennis court, and then crossed back into Botswana. Fortunately it was an easy border post otherwise we might just have opted for the gravel roads to Twee Rivieren. The road was a pleasure. We only saw a few other cars that up to Bokspits, and probably a few more donkey carts. The border at Bokspits was the quickest and easiest of the lot. You have to pull into the local police station since there isn t actually a formal border post with customs etc. The police officer told us that if you enter Botswana through this post he can t even charge you the required carbon and other road taxes since they do not have the authority from customs to do so. But what if you get pulled over in Botswana and you don t have the receipts and discs? I asked. His reply was that if you tell them that you entered at Bokspits, then they can t fine you since it is common knowledge that this border post doesn t have a customs office. So, this is the best entry into Botswana for those of us who will be coming from the Western or Northern Cape. And that brand new road along the Molopo river will link you up to the Trans-Kalahari Highway in no time, or you can take your time through the dunes of the Kgalagadi if you have time on your hands. Once we were through Bokspits, we headed for the SA side of the Kgalagadi and that will be covered in our final report Trip Report no. 6. Highlights: Chobe river game drives and boat cruise our best game viewing day up to that point, only surpassed by exceptional encounters in the Kgalagadi. When the Landy s wheels got moving out of the sand again. I screamed hallelujah while Wendy burst into tears. Do differently: Deflate to 0.8 bar at Ghoha gate. And why don t they give you a bit more advice like this - perhaps we looked like we had it all together? Xakanaxa, Savuti and Ihaha instead of South Gate and Linyanti, but we didn t have the choice this time around due to the date changes. Kudos: The manager of the Toro Safari Lodge for giving us the last night on the house, after there had been some disruptions due to a burst water pipe. *Note to self: You don t always have to complain and make demands. Just a simple and polite request to management can sometimes do the trick.] To the Botswana meat control board for keeping the quality so good it is one of their top three sources of income (along with diamonds and tourism). Doodas: To the shop attendant at the Engen quick shop who was sleeping behind the counter. The kids found this rather amusing, especially when the petrol pump attendant had to knock her on the head more than once to wake her up. Unfortunately this was not the only slow, lazy and somewhat lethargic service we encountered in Botswana. I think it has something to do with the heat. Everything moves very slowly.

8 Route Map of Botswana Leg (Mapsource / Garmin)