BOTSWANA SEPTEMBER 2011 TRAVEL REPORT

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1 BOTSWANA SEPTEMBER 2011 TRAVEL REPORT In Summary Departed 16 September 2011 and returned 24 September Total distance covered 3200km. Our route covered Johannesburg, Modimolle, Vaalwater, Lephalale, Mahalapye, Palapye, Serowe, Orapa, Maun, Moremi, Savuti, Kasane, Victoria Falls, Nata, Francistown, Selebi-Phikwe, Zanzibar, Tolwe, Baltimore, Marken, Vaalwater, Modimole and Johannesburg. Background In April 2010 we visited Khutse and Central Kalahari Game Reserve. This trip was exciting as it was our first visit to Botswana, but also a bit disappointing as it rained the entire time and the game viewing was a bit thin. However, it did introduce us to the beauty of Botswana and a decision was taken to visit northern Botswana in I drive a stock standard 2007 Isuzu KB300 fitted with a Rhino canvass canopy, Howling moon Stargazer rooftop tent, African Outback roller drawer in the back with dual battery and National Luna Weekender 50 Twin fridge. All gear has a specific place and is fitted and tied down with cargo rail etc. and I carry as standard 20L of water. Latest edition this year is a custom built aluminium table that slides under the roof top tent. On this trip I also carried two additional 20L jerry cans for diesel and an additional 20L jerry can for water. So with that in mind off we went...

2 Friday, 16 September km We departed Johannesburg early morning on the N1 to Modimolle and R33 via Vaalwater to Lephalale. From there we elected to take the dirt road, just to warm up the Suzi for the week to come, past Medupi power station directly to the Stockpoort border post. On advice from forum member Getalbo we decided not to use Martin's Drift to avoid the traffic. Good move, we were the only vehicle and cleared the border procedures on both sides in minutes. On the Botswana side we were however subjected to a search and luckily we did not carry any meat. Our Woollies bananas did however get confiscated. We continued on dirt roads to Mahalapye where we joined the A1 north to Palapye before turning of on the A14 to Serowe. At Serowe just short of the turnoff to Orapa we did some grocery shopping at the local Spar and filled up with diesel at the Engen (paid with credit card) before continuing north to Khama Rhino Sanctuary where we were to camp the first evening. We arrived at the sanctuary around 16h30, total travel time 10.5 hours. The staff was full of smiles friendly and helpful. At the entrance gate there is a little shop with a bit of everything, alcohol, mementos, hand carved little rhinos, hats, wood, etc. We were allocated campsite six which was perfectly situated, very private but near to the ablution blocks. Ablution facilities were relatively basic as one would expect in Africa. The campsite was perfect.

3 Contact Information Tel: (+267) Mobile: (+267)

4 Saturday, 17 September km Departing at around 08:30 we continued our journey via Orapa to Maun On the way, at the town of Xhumaga, we took a short detour to see the river crossing to the Makgadikgadi Pans Game Reserve. A ferry service at 100 Pula is available to cross the Boteti River. Arriving in Maun we immediately proceeded to the Botswana Parks offices to obtain our permits for Moremi and Chobe. The office is open until 17:00 on a Saturday. Once again the service was friendly and efficient. We paid the fees by credit card and were sorted out in minutes. Maun is a reasonably sized town with most of the amenities you could need. There are a number of supermarkets, restaurants, airport, etc. I would assume that one can bank on the town always having a supply of diesel etc. After a late lunch and some shopping at the local supermarket we filled up with diesel before proceeding to Okavango River Lodge, which is about 10km out of town, where we would be camping for the second evening.

5 We set up camp right on the river bank and had a perfect view of the river. The facilities were however basic and not as impressive as presented on the website. Contact Information Tel: (+267) info@okavango-river-lodge.com PS. The next morning we made a quick visit to Audi camp to compare facilities for future reference. Our opinion is that the setting on the river bank at Okavango River Lodge is more pleasant.

6 Sunday, 18 September km Making a late start we headed north to Moremi, Xakanaxa where we would be camping for two nights, 18 and 19 September. The drive to the park was easy going on tar at first and then good gravel road for the last 45km to South gate.

7 After checking in at South gate, we headed north to Xakanaxa. The road heading directly to Xakanaxa was in a reasonable condition and we covered the 42km in about 1.5 hours which left us sufficient time for an afternoon nap before taking a late afternoon game drive.

8 While the game was more sparse than expected we were very fortunate with a sighting of a large leopard. We however made most of the excellent bird watching opportunities and notched up a number of species.

9 The campsites were excellently placed for privacy and ablution facilities of good standard comparable to national parks in South Africa.

10 Monday, 19 September 2011 We took an early morning drive out to 3 rd Bridge. Due to the high water levels the route along the water s edge was closed but an alternative dry route was available. We were able to cross both 4 th and 3 rd bridge.

11 After a nice brunch at the 3 rd bridge camp site we returned to Xakanaxa. On the way we met up with family from the Czech Republic who had gotten stuck in the sand. Out came the snatch strap and a light jerk did the trick. Isuzu one, Toyota zero... The afternoon we had a boat reservation with Dumela Botswana for a trip on the Okavango Delta.

12 Departing at 15:00 we had excellent bird sightings. Game viewing was less successful, the game was widely dispersed due to the high water levels. The boat trip was however definitely worth the money, one of those must do things when visiting Moremi. Contact Information Kwalate Safari Tel: (+267) Mobile: (+267)

13 Tuesday, 20 September km Today we made an early start. The plan was to travel all the way to Kasane via Savuti and we knew it was going to be a long day. Departing at 06:30 we headed back to South gate and the main road between Maun and Kasane. Turning north via the town of Mababe, we enter Chobe national park at the Mababe Gate. In Chobe we continued north to Savuti, taking the Sandridge road, where we stopped for a short break and lunch before proceeding to Ghoha gate. Roads in Chobe made for heavy going, deep sand most of the way. The Savuti channel was flowing strongly and it was hot as hell.

14 Leaving Ghoha gate we turned left, as recommended by forum members, heading north to join the cutline to Kasane. Once again it was deep sand and on the way we met up with two gentlemen from Spain who had also gotten stuck. Once again, out came the snatch strap. Isuzu two, Nissan zero... We finally met up with the tar road at the town of Kachikau and from there it was easy going to Kasane. In Kasane campers are accommodated on a first come first serve basis and there are a few options available. After exploring in the town we finally elected stay over at Chobe Safari Lodge for three nights. Chobe Safari Lodge is well situated within walking distance to town amenities and on the border with the Chobe Park, making for a quick access when taking a game viewing cruise on the river.

15 Wednesday, 21 September 2011 After the epic trip from Moremi, our plan was to take the day slow. Having finalised our arrangements for the afternoon, a game viewing cruise on the river, and the next day, a trip to Victoria Falls, we spent the rest of the day at the pool and taking on some treatments at the local spa. Departing at 15:00 the game viewing cruise is definitely worth the money. We had excellent sightings of both game and bird species and the final reward was a magnificent sunset. While the lodge boat, The Kingfisher, provided an excellent vantage point I found it to crowded and would in the future rather opt for one of the smaller motor boats. Kasane is well worth the visit and one can easily spend a day or two in the area. While it is convenient to be in the town, I do agree with forum members that if you want a real bush experience you need to get out of town, maybe rather Ihaha Camp for me when I go again. Contact Information Tel: (+267) reservations@chobesafarilodge.com

16 Thursday, 22 September 2011 We departed at 08:00 on an arranged transfer to Victoria Falls which we had booked with one of the local operators. Arriving at the border post we found ourselves in the hustle and bustle of international tourist who had the same idea as us. Luckily for us, South African s do not need a visa or pay any fees so our border proceedings was completed fairly quickly and we arrived at the falls around 11:00. The visit to the falls was certainly worth the trip. After about an hour and half visit we completed the day with a lunch at the Victoria Falls Hotel before returning to Kasane.

17 Friday, 23 September km Today we started our return journey. We made a quick visit to the Kazungula ferry to see the mighty Zambezi River. After filling up with diesel (paying in USD due to cards not being accepted) we headed south on the A33 to Nata. While most of the road was easy driving there is a section of 135km road works north of Nata which made things a bit uncomfortable.

18 In Nata we filled u with diesel at the Engen (paying with a credit card) before proceeding to the Nata Bird Sanctuary. As expected for the time of year the pans were dry and the lady at the gate did inform us that we should not expect too much. To our surprise we did spot a large flock of Flamingos on the horizon but elected not to try and drive up to them due to the potential of getting stuck in the notorious Makgadigadi mud. After lunch we continued south to Woodlands Stop Over where we camped for the evening. Woodlands is an excellent facility we definitely visit there again.

19 Contact Information Tel: (+267) Saturday, 24 September km We depart early morning heading south to cross back into South Africa at Zanzibar border post. In Conclusion Was the trip worth the effort? Most definitely. Value for money? In general reasonable even with the exchange rate. The parks are however a bit stiff and I am not sure it will be worth it if they do implement the proposed exorbitant increases. Lessons learnt: I need to do something about the Isuzu tailgate, it does not keep dust out as expected. Even the heavy duty zippers on the canvas canopy does not take well to the dust. September is too late for northern Botswana, far too hot. Original Iced premix cocktails and Samoosa s will be a standard menu item on the next trip. Next trip, Namibia via Kasane, August Anyone joining in?