Mulanje Mountain. The Rock that does not Move: Yes, with towering heights and a

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1 The Rock that does not Move: Mulanje Mountain By: Omega Chanje If green thickets, the sound of flowing water and mountain slopes do it for you, then a visit to a mountain called Mulanje in Malawi is a must for you. Did I mention mystery? Yes, with towering heights and a magical feel about its enclaves, it is little wonder that Tolkien was inspired to write The Hobbit after his visit to the mountain in Malawi. For years the mountain has been known to be a place of mystic occurrences. The mountain, situated south of Blantyre, in a rustic town called Mulanje, rises to towering heights of 2,800 meters above sea level, with its highest point called Sapitwa at 3,002 metres above sea level. The undulating plains around the mountain give a sharp

2 visual contrast to the view. It is little wonder that Tolkien was inspired to write The Hobbit after his visit to the mountain. Popularly known as Mulanje Massif due to its formation, the mountain sits on the southeast side of the country close to the Mozambican border. What would otherwise seem like a monotonous drive into the country, from Blantyre this trip will take you through vast tea fields that remain green throughout the year. The drive captured my imagination as I recalled the various myths told of the area, which includes that of a rock that would not be moved when road contractors built the road many yeas ago. It figures, the rock was magical and had its own permanent spot. Legend has it that, the contractors diverted the road plan to specifically accommodate the rock in that spot as it remains today. It is called Mwala wa Nthunzi; The rock that does not move. As the drive continues, the tea fields become macadamia nut fields, which then become more tea fields, then alas - the mountain, which stands immaculately. This is not just any ordinary mountain, but one that is adorned with cedar trees, sporadic to water falls that are visible all around the mountain and plateaux that offer breathtaking views of Mulanje and its surroundings. The fascinating thing about the mountain is that it has many facets to it physically ranging from various routes that are ideal if you are an adventurous hiker, or if you are a photographer looking for your golden mean. An expedition on the mountain is sure to please the professional climber, the amateur walker, even the novelist seeking inspiration. It is a place of peace, wonder and mystery. As I begin the climb, I am amazed at the number of cedar trees the mountain has. The cedar forest is well visible as

3 you view the mountain, but the walk through them, up the mountain offers an even more magical experience. The trees are estimated to be between 200 and 300 years old, but they could have been around for much longer. As I become aware of my own little footsteps finding their way through the cedar trees, up this colossal mountain, I realise how small I am amidst all the vastness. I suddenly think of myself as Frodo Baggins in The Hobbit, as I anticipate the heavens to open up and reveal a magical creature of some sort; I m brought back to the present as the porter continues to speak of the mysteries the mountains holds. According to oral traditions, the plateaux of Mulanje Mountain were inhabited by the Batwa Stone Age hunters and gatherers. I can t help but notice the similarities between the word Batwa (which literally translated is dwarf in the Chichewa language) and Hobbit. As I found out recently, until you wear your hiking gear and commence the hike, you often get an impression of, oh yes I can conquer this, ; that is of course, before your calf muscles begin to give in and you re running out of breath considering infrequent gym visits. The point being that, everyone could enjoy a trip to the mountain and its surrounds, even if you weren t going to climb, a tour around the tea plantations and pools is just as delightful and relaxing. The tea fields become macadamia nut fields, which then become more tea fields, then alas - the mountain, which stands immaculately.

4 The air is still and all I hear is the sound of gushing water. It is truly an amazing place. A casual two hour walk takes us to a thundering torrent of waterfalls called Dziwe la Nkhalamba. Here, the waterfall has formed a large pool with crystal clear water. I welcome the cooling effect it has on me. The air is still and all I hear is the sound of gushing water. It is truly an amazing place. Amidst the indulgence, I think of what other magical spots the mountain may have and ask the porter, he misunderstands me and tells me of the plight many have gone through by visiting those magical places. Like on most mountains in the world on Mount Mulanje people have gone missing, Some visitors, hiking on their own, have disappeared on the mountain, and the locals strongly believe they angered the spirits and therefore got taken by them. However, authorities strongly advise visitors against hiking on their own as they may get lost. Though a small town, Mulanje offers a sense of wellbeing and is certainly nature at its best. Perhaps owing to its accessibility, the people of Mulanje are friendly folk who have gotten used to being travel guides and are therefore always willing to give directions or offer assistance. A day in Mulanje could start with an early morning hike up one of the many trails. Most paths on the mountain are in good condition and, although quite steep in places, they present few problems for the reasonably fit.

5 When to visit Most parts of the mountain are accessible throughout the year, but the best time is from mid April to September. October and November are the hottest months. It is advisable to climb the mountain during April to December as this is usually the dry season and will offer better climbing conditions; If however you are an experienced hiker or climber the rainy season offers magnificent sights of water falls and raging torrents. March

6 Where to stay? InfoMulanje is a good starting point, if you want to visit Mulanje Mountain. They make bookings for all accommodation around Mount Mulanje and arrange Department of Forestry and CCAP hut bookings on the mountain. They also organise guides and porters and give trail advice for walks and treks up the mountain. InfoMulanje also assists with day trips to other interesting sights around the base of Mount Mulanje, and even make bookings at local restaurants. They will organize tours to any of the nearby tea-estates, giving more insight into the tea making process, including a factory visit. For more information infomulanje@mountmulanje. org.mw or call Mulanje View Motel offers basic rooms and is located in town, with a view on the mountain. Kara o Mula Country Lodge offers chalets in lush gardens, nice bar with a forest feel because of the use of so much rough wood. Lujeri Lodge, self catering, on a tea estate near the border with Mozambique. Sleeps 10, immaculate beautiful gardens to enjoy. Lujeri Guesthouse, similar gardens, 5 double rooms. Both are only rented out as a whole. Likubula is a good place to start exploring the mountain, the Likubula Forest Lodge offers nice rooms in a building with a great view from the veranda. The other option in Likubula is the CCAP Rest house, chalets with small kitchens, in nice gardens. March

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