REPORT for Championships of Mountaineering of Latvia and Baltic's States about summiting Filtrs (3690 m)
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1 ATSKAITE Latvijas un Baltijas čempionātam alpīnismā Par uzkāpšanu virsotnē Filtrs (3690 m) REPORT for Championships of Mountaineering of Latvia and Baltic's States about summiting Filtrs (3690 m) Saturs/Content Pase / Passport...2 Kāpiena apraksts / Asscent description...4 Maršruta shēma / Scheme of route...5 Maršruta bilde / Picture of route...6 Rajona shēma / Scheme of area...7 Bildes / Pictures
2 2(9) PASE / PASSPORT Maršruta klase/ Class of route Tehniskā B / Technical B Maršruta rajons, kalnu grēda/ Region of route, mountain chain Krievija, Rietumkaukāzs, Uzunkola Russia, the West Caucasus, Uzunkol Virsotne, tās augstums, maršruts/ Summit, it s height, rout s name Filtrs, 3690 m, pa ziemeĝu kontrforsu (kombinētais maršruts) / Filtrs, 3690 m, North counterfort (combined route) Maršruta novietojums / Route face ZiemeĜu kontrforss / North counterfort Grūtību kategorija/ Grade of difficulty 3A (RUS) Maršruta raksturojums / Description of the route Augstuma starpība/height difference 750 m Sarežăīto posmu garums/ 230m (III ) Length of complicated Dienu/Stundu skaits maršrutā/ 8.5 h Days/Hours spent on the route Vadītājs Alise LegzdiĦa (LACA, Latvija) Dalībnieki/Participants Rinalds Dombrovskis (LACA, Latvija) Kristaps Šveisbergs (LACA, Latvija) Raimonds Ekurs (LACA, Latvija) Indra Muižniece (LACA Latvija) Laiki/Times Maršruta sākuma/ Beginning of the route :00 Virsotnes sasniegšanas/summitting :00 Atgriešanās nometnē/ :30 Returning to camp
3 3(9) MARŠRUTA RAKSTUROJUMS / ROUTE DESCRIPTION Detalizēts kāpiena apraksts CeĜamies plkst. 4:30, izejam no nometnes pie Kičkinokola ledāja plkst. 6:00, pie maršruta sākuma esam plkst. 7:00. Skaidrs laiks, bez nokrišħiem, redzamība laba. Pieejam maršruta sākuma klintīm pāri Kičkinokola ledājam Filtra ziemeĝu kontrforsa virzienā. Kilnšu apakšējo daĝu apiet pa labo pusi. Ledus sasalis un ciets. Pie maršruta sākuma tiek sagatavots ekipējums. Tālāk ejam divās sasaitēs (Alise, Kristaps un Raimonds, Rinalds un Indra) ar pārmaiħus drošināšanu. Pa aptuveni 30º sniega nogāzi pieejam klāt bergšruntam, ko šėērsojam pa sniega korėi. Pēc bergšrunda virzāmies tālāk pa sniegota kuluāra labo pusi līdz klinšu sienai. Pa plauktiħu, 40m sienu (vidējas grūtības) un iekšējo stūri R4. Tālāk pa maziem plauktiħiem izejam uz kontrforsa pleca R7. Tur atrodas kontroltūrs. Nomainām kontroltūra zīmīti. No pleca pa klintīm uzejam uz apmēram 640m sniega kori (35º-45º) ar klinšu saliħu R7 pa vidu. Pa sniega kori paceĝamies uz virsotnes kori. Tālāk pa maršrutu Filtrs 2B no Kičkenokolas pārejas. Pa kori virzāmies līdz trīsstūrveida iegruvumam. Nolaižamies 6m pa iekšējo stūri un tālāk pa klinti izejam uz asu sniega pāreju. No pārejas pa kreisi un uz augšu izejam uz plauktiħu. Tālāk pa kamīnu-plaisu izejam uz virsotnes kori. Pa sniegotās kores kreiso pusi (pa labi ir lielas sniega karnīzes) izejam uz virsotni. Virsotnē esam 13:00. Uzkavējamies apmēram 0.5h, lai apmainītu virsotnes zīmīti un atpūstos, un sākam noeju pa Filtrs 2B maršrutu uz nometni pie Kičkenokolas ledāja. Noeja pa klinšu kori līdz Kičkenokolas pārejai. Pēc tam pa sniega-ledus nogāzi līdz ledājam un pāri ledājam uz nometni. Sniega un ledus kvalitāte slikta (slapjš). Kopējais noejas laiks aptuveni divas stundas. Nometnē ierodamies ap 15:30. Detailed Summiting Description From ice spending the night to cross a plateau of a glacier Average Kickenokol in a direction of northern buttress of the Mt.Filter. To round its bottom part to the right and on a snow slope, along rocks, to approach to a bergschrund. Having overcome it, on the left party snow culuar to approach to a rocky wall. On a shelf, a 40-meter wall of average difficulty and internal corner R4, and then on fine shelf to leave on a shoulder of buttress R6. Here control round. From a shoulder on rocks to leave on a 640-meter snow crest (35º-45º) with rocky island in the middle R7 and to rise on the basic crest of top, not reaching up to a trapezoid formation. Further to the right on a crest to leave on top on a route "The Filter from pass Kichkinekol ".
4 4(9) From it to go down on the snow crosspiece and to leave on a flat part of crests R3. On a crest to move up to following triangular formation R4. To go down on a 6-meter internal corner on a platform and further on rocks (rejects) to leave on snow sharp crosspiece R5. From the crosspiece to the left-upwards on rocks on a shelf, then to the right-upwards on a fireplacecrevice to rise on a topmost snow crest. On its left party (on the right greater snow eaves!) to leave on top. Descent on a way to camp takes ~2 hours. Laika apstākĝi: no rīta skaidrs, vēlāk mākoħains, mazliet vējains. Orientēšanās maršrutā - laba. Weather conditions: in the morning sunny, later cloudy and windy. Orientation in the route good. NokĜūšana rajonā / Transports Ar vilcienu: Rīga-Maskava, Maskava- Vladikavkāza (līdz Nevinomijska) un ar autobusu: Nevinomijska - Čerkeska - Karačajevska - a/n Uzunkola. Getting to the Area / Transport By train: Riga - Moscow, Moscow - Vladikavkaz (till Nevinnomyssk) and by buss: Nevinnomyssk - Cherkessk - Karachaevska/camp Uzunkol. Piezīmes par laika apstākĝiem Laika posmā no 20. jūlija līdz 6. augustam (2009.g.) laika apstākĝi bija nelabvēlīgi kāpšanai kalnos. Agri no rīta pārsvarā laiks bija skaidrs, bet aptuveni ap plkst. 8:00-9:00 parasti sāka parādīties mākoħi. Laiks pasliktinājās un pēcpusdienā starp plkst. 14:00-17:00 sāka līt. Augstumā virs 3000 m bieži sniga sniegs un krusa. Reizēm pērkona negaiss. Weather Conditions From July 20 th to August 6 th the weather vas very not very good for mountaineering: mostly rainy, foggy. Usually the first part of the day was sunny, at about 8:00-9:00 it became a bit cloudy but in the afternoons, usually at about 14: it started raining, often with snow or hail (above 3000 m), even with thunderstorm and lightening.
5 5(9) MARŠRUTA SHĒMA / SCHEME OF ROUTE
6 6(9) MARŠRUTA BILDE / PICTURE OF ROUTE Apzīmējumi: Maršruta līnija Pieeja un noeja no maršruta Virsotne Nometne
7 7(9) RAJONA SHĒMA / SCHEME OF AREA Apzīmējumi: Virsotne Pāreja Nometnes vieta
8 8(9) BILDES / PICTURES 1.attēls Pieeja maršruta sākumam no nometnes pāri ledājam Picture 1: Way till the beginning of route 2.attēls CeĜā uz virsotni Filtrs Picture 2: Route to the summit 3. attēls CeĜā uz virsotni Filtrs Picture 3: Route to the summit
9 9(9) 4. attēls Virsotnē Picture 4: The summit Filtrs 5. attēls Noeja no virsotnes pa sniega un ledus nogāzi Picture 5: Climb-down from the summit
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