EDINBURGH JMCS CLUB MEETS REPORT October 2010

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1 EDINBURGH JMCS CLUB MEETS REPORT October 2010 Winter 2009/10 With a hint of things to come the first winter meet brought cold, clear, wind-free days. These conditions continued, providing a memorable season. Waters Cottage, Kinlochleven 11 th to 13 th December Dave, Matt (guest), David, Bruce, Bryan, Alex, Susan, Charles. Dave and Matt took full advantage of the excellent conditions and headed to the hills on the Friday morning ascending Tom Meadhan (Graham), near Onich, on route to the hut. Bryan likewise started the weekend early with a traverse of the Ballachulish Horseshoe. Saturday Dave and Matt headed to the Mamores for a fine winter round of Stob Coire a Chairn, An Gearabach, Na Gruagaichean & Binnein Mor plus four tops. Bryan also headed to the Mamores ascending Am Bodach and Sgur a Mhaim. Alex climbed North Castle Gully (II) on the Ben. Sunday Dave and Matt ascended Beinn Mhic Chasgaig, a Corbett in Glen Etive. Bryan returned to the Mamores, this time to Beinnein Mor and Na Gruagaichean. On the Ben, David and Bruce climbed Green Gully (IV)*** while Alex climbed Ledge Route (II)***. Susan and Charles climbed Dorsal Arete (II)** in Stob Coire nan Lochan. View north between An Garbhanach & An Gearanach with Carn Mor Dearg in the distance

2 Descending An Garbhanach to Bealach a Chadha Riabhaich An Garbhanach looking south Summit of Binnein Mor at sunset with the temperature about to plummet Sgur a lubhair with Stob Ban in the distance This was a great opening meet to what was to become a bumper Scottish Winter. 2

3 The Cabin, Laggan 15 th to 17 th January Patrick. Windy weather the first for ages! Patrick visited the hut carrying out some further renovation work. Smiddy, Dundonnell 12 th to 14 th February Francis, Patrick, John, Charles, Fraser. Bidein a'ghlas Thuill, An Teallach Originally the Glen Brittle Memorial hut in Skye was the venue for this meet, however, a letter from the custodian brought news of burst pipes and blocked roads preventing access. Ironically, the cold, icy conditions we dreamt of for a winter meet to Skye rendered the hut unusable! Our own hut at Dundonnell provided an alternative venue for the meet. Four members arrived at the hut on the Friday evening to a good frost, however, by the next morning things were warming up. This continued to be the case throughout the day with fresh snow turning to light rain even up in the Corries. As a result plans to traverse the ridge by Francis and Patrick were cancelled following topping out of Constabulary Couloir I*. John and Charles retreated from 200m up Fourth Prong II*. In the evening Fraser (and whisky bottle) travelled over from Ullapool to catch up on the latest news. With mild weather on Sunday, Francis and Patrick headed for Edinburgh while John and Charles visited the estate factor to discuss the Smiddy lease before returning to Edinburgh. The Cabin, Laggan 12 th to 14 th March David Small, David Amos, Bryan Rynne, Eddie Gillespie. On Saturday Bryan ascended the two Loch Treig Munros, Stob Coire Easain and Stob a Choire Mheadhoin and on Sunday bagged Binnein Shuas & Binnein Shios. The hut log book tells the rest of the story... Cabin log book 3

4 The Cabin, Laggan 2 nd to 5 th April Chris, Frederike, Dave, Susan, Charles,Bryan, Ali. Ardverike Wall and Lochan na h-earba Creag Meagaidh massif Ski-touring and winter hill walking were the focus for this meet. On Good Friday Dave skinned from the road in Glen Feshie up to Sgor Gaoith. Bryan continued with his Munros in the vicinity of the hut, this time ascending Beinn a Chlachair and Geal Charm. Saturday saw Dave, Susan and Charles go east of Drumochter where once again it was possible to tour from the road. Fred and Chris went to A Chailleach behind Newtonmore while Bryan ascended Grahams near Fersit. Skinning up east of the A9, Drumochter 4

5 Creag Dubh Sunday, Susan and Charles skied from the Sugar Bowl car park to Creag an Leth-choin and then descended Lurcher s Gully. David went to the Aonach Mor ski centre and clocked up some 5000 metres of descent. Bryan ticked some Grahams near Newtonmore, as well as an ascent of Creag Dubh. CIC, Ben Nevis 16 th to 18 th April Terry, Roy, Dave, David, Ruth, Eddie, Susan, Charles, Bruce, Alex. Lurchers Gully and Coire an Lochan from slopes of Creag an Leth-choin Coire na Ciste This was the club s first visit to the recently upgraded CIC and a few years since the club had visited the Ben this late during the season. Both the hut and the Ben were in good conditions after a long season. Conditions were good, if a bit soft, but many routes were ascended with a very cosy and social Saturday evening. On route to the CIC, Terry and Roy enjoyed some early season rock climbing on Secretaries Direct in Glen Nevis. Routes ascended on the Ben were Psychadelic Wall Direct VI**, Comb Gully IV***, Thompson s Route IV*** and North Gully Direct Finish III** by David and David; Comb Gully IV*** and Ledge Route II*** by Ruth and Eddie; Three Gully Buttress III*** by Terry and Roy; North Gully II** by Susan and Charles; and Glover s Chimney III** by Alex and Bruce. 5

6 Summer 2010 Once again, great weather and climbing conditions for many of the meets this season. Smiddy, Dundonnell 7 th to 9 th May Susan, Charles. Two dry sunny days coincided with this meet. On Saturday the best climb of the day was Charlie s Corner VS** on Jetty Buttress. On the Sunday the best climb was Gneissest VS* on Triangular Slab. Bowden Doors, Northumberland 15 th May Ruth, Bryan, Susan, Charles, Alan, Jane, Stuart, Stuart, Alasdair (guest), Liz (guest), Mike (guest), Cat (guest), Ian (guest), Stuart (guest). A good turnout of members and guests with many classics climbed throughout the day followed by beers at the Blue Bell Inn at Belford. 6

7 Kirriehill, Angus 12 th June Ruth, Bryan, Susan, Charles, Jane, Stuart, Chris, Frederike, Ken and Christine guests). Since the club visited this venue back in October 2009 some new routes have been added and a supplement guide published. With mention of a barbeque not deterring the weather, we have a great day s bolt clipping with both new and the now well established routes climbed. The Cabin, Laggan 18 th to 20 th June Eddie Bryan, David S, Roy, David M. Loch Avon and Shelterstone Crag from The Saddle, Bynoch More On Saturday Eddie climbed up Tower Ridge and down Castle Ridge on Ben Nevis. Bryan headed to the Cairngorms ascending Bynack More and Cairngorm itself. David and Roy climbed at Upper Cave Crag at Dunkeld. The Coire Ardair face of Creag Meagaidh 7

8 Sunday saw Eddie head to Glen Coe. David and Roy went to the Ben and climbed The Long Climb VS*** while Bryan continued his ascents of Munros over 1000 m with the excellent high level circuit of Coire Ardair taking in Creag Meagaidh, Carn Liath and Stob Poite Coire Ardair. Looking back from the Window, Creag Meagaidh Glen Brittle Memorial Hut, Skye 16 th to 19 th July With a forecast of rain and more rain, after considerable interest we all decided against heading up to Skye. Birkness, Buttermere, Lake District 6 th to 8 th August David, Linda, Nigel, Ewan, Charles, Susan. Nigel and Ewan headed to Borrowdale on the Friday climbing Little Chamonix VD*** and a few routes on Brown Slabs. Saturday dawned with heavy rain, however with an improving forecast everyone headed for neighbouring Borrowdale and Combe Ghyll. Here Nigel and Ewan climbed Outside or Face Route Diff* on Doves Nest Crag while the others ascended Corvus Diff*** on Raven Crag, David and Linda choosing the comfort (??!) of big boots for this route. Traverse pitch on Corvus On Sunday we all headed to Gowbarrow Crag, overlooking Ullswater in the Eastern Lakes, described by the guide as having easy access, a sunny aspect and some pleasant routes. The guide is very accurate the crag has some very pleasant routes and, what the guide does not tell you, some diabolical ones! Best route of the day was The Whistler MVS** on the middle tier climbed by Susan and Charles and Linda and David. Worst route of the day was either the aptly named Mike s Dilemma MVS* ascended by Linda and David first pitch was filthy but the second was quite good, or Gowbarrow Buttress S* climbed by Nigel and Ewan full of creepy crawlies and vegetation. The crag is on a Site of Special Scientific Interest which perhaps explains the insects and vegetation and in particular the many ticks which headed back up to Scotland with various members of the party! Having said all that, this was a really enjoyable meet with a great hut and handy pub close by. 8

9 Loudoun Hill, Ayrshire 21 st August This south facing but exposed crag was not well placed for climbing in the unsettled weather forecast for the day of the meet and as a result no one attended. Brackenclose, Wasdale, Lake District 3 rd to 5 th September Linda Alan, Susan, Charles. Linda and Alan headed to Castle Rock of Triermain in the north Lakes on Friday managing to snatch a few routes on the way to the hut. Brackenclose, at the foot of Scafell, has some classic mountain routes on its doorstep. On Saturday both parties headed up to the Moss Gill area where Moss Gill Grooves MVS*** was climbed by Susan and Charles and Pisgah Buttress S*** by Linda and Alan. With the threat of a shower on Sunday it was Susan and Charles turn to climb at Castle Rock while Linda and Alan climbed at Wallowbarrow Crag in the Duddon Valley. Bob Downes Hut, Froggatt, Peak District 8 th to 11 th October Francis, Patrick, David, Sandy, Ruth, Eddie, Bryan, Sanna, Nigel, Mark (guest), Sally (guest), Tim (guest). Once again this gritstone venue proved very popular. Many starred routes were climbed. The following were some of the most memorable: Peapod at Curber HVS***, Valkyrie HVS*** at Froggatt by Patrick & Francis; Trafalgar Wall S*** at Birchen, Manchester Buttress HS** at Stanage by Nigel and Mark; Heather Wall HVD***, Chequers Buttress HVS*** at Froggatt by Sanna and Bryan; Mississippi Variant Direct E1**, Milton s Meander VS** at Stanage by David and Sandy and April Crack HS*** at Stanage, Tody s Wall HVS*** at Froggatt by Ruth and Eddie. Valkyrie Mountain Bike Meet, Isle of Arran 23 rd October The forecast was for a blustery and wet autumn weekend and, with snow having fallen in the hills this week, it was time to think of winter. As a result, interest for the trip petered out on Thursday evening. ******* And to close... This has been another year of great meets, many thanks to all who came along and made them so enjoyable. Thanks also to our hut custodians, Helen and Ali, the two huts have provided wonderful venues for many memorable meets. Lastly, thanks to Bryan, Dave and Charles for providing photos for the meets report. Susan Marvell, Meets Secretary, Edinburgh JMCS. 9