The Tablelands Walking Club

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Blaise Kelly
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The aim of this walk was to take sufficient time to use some currently less worn paths and to investigate some areas that are normally not part of the itinerary of many trekking companies.

and Bert as King of the Fuzzies - who settled in the Mambare Valley in the early 1930 s.

1 The Tablelands Walking Club Newsletter January 2012 Kokoda May 2011 by Randall Wynn Having walked over the Kokoda Trail in September 2006, from Kokoda to Ower s Corner, and having had my interest in this campaign of World War II increased by the experience, I took the opportunity to join a group of walkers in May this year to participate in a ramble over the trail. The aim of this walk was to take sufficient time to use some currently less worn paths and to investigate some areas that are normally not part of the itinerary of many trekking companies. We were fortunate to have as one of the leaders Soc Kienzle, the son of Captain Bert Kienzle organiser of the native workforce for the AIF who became known affectionately as - the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels, and Bert as King of the Fuzzies - who settled in the Mambare Valley in the early 1930 s. Soc was born in Kokoda in 1950 and lived on the family plantation until 1983 and has acquired very detailed knowledge of the campaign, and historical locations, from his life at Mamba Estate, and interaction with the many post war visitors both Japanese and Allied, who returned during the 50 s and 60 s. His fluency in the native language and his relationship with the nationals has also increased his knowledge of the area, and his rapport with the nationals was very evident and added to the experience. July Whilst most interest has been on the Kokoda to Ower s Corner section of the campaign the military remains in this area are very interesting and quite well preserved. The Japanese bunkers consisting of filled 44 gallon drums built up in a circular two tier structure with connecting tunnels because of the very high water table provided the Japanese with very effective cover of killing fields and being very well dug in explains the many Allied casualties in this part of the campaign. The lack of knowledge and understanding shown by MacArthur and Blamey is very evident as casualties could have been considerably reduced with a better appreciation of the ground situation. Japanese cycle frame. The remaining evidence of the Japanese lack of knowledge of the terrain is also evident with locations containing steel wagon wheels, horse shoes and bike frames being observed. (The bikes were apparently to be used for troops to ride along the roads as the advance progressed as they had down the Asian peninsular). The Japanese force was certainly determined in their initial aim of crossing the Owen Stanley Range to Port Moresby. Mitchell Bomber, Popondetta Unlike my first trip, we flew to Popondetta airstrip with its Mitchell B-25 remains, the Bar-Fly, and then went by PMV to Gona on the coast and by motor boat to Sanananda where we were based for 3 nights. The Japanese landed at Buna in Leaving the beaches area we returned to Popondetta having seen the Gona Cross and then went by PMV to Kokoda crossing the Kumusi River at Wairopi and through Gorari and Oivi. Of particular interest was to follow upstream along Eora Creek where a native Sonopa, attached to the Allies, led a group of troops safely away from the advancing Japanese in an

medallion that Bert Kienzle and Doc Vernon had wanted for the nationals campaign medal, gummying down the Mambare River past the magnificent plantation homestead high on the river bank, and gaining a

2 overnight walk to rejoin their unit. We were able to walk in part along the track used by these soldiers. Reaching Kokoda Plateau late in the day, we spent the following morning looking at the memorabilia at Kokoda that the Kienzle family was instrumental in assembling, with memorials showing the medallion that Bert Kienzle and Doc Vernon had wanted for the nationals campaign medal, gummying down the Mambare River past the magnificent plantation homestead high on the river bank, and gaining a small appreciation of the work achieved by the original European settlers. Eora Creek crossing. The main walk commenced that afternoon where we walked along the rubber and cocoa plantation to Hoi. From Hoi we walked up the range through the choko vines, introduced into the valley by Bert s wife Meryl, via Deniki to Isurava where there is a P40 crash site higher up the ridge which was able to be visited. The crash site of the Airlines of PNG that occurred a couple of years ago was evident on the eastern ridge of Eora Creek and reiterates the danger of flying in these very high and rugged ranges where the weather can be very changeable. From Isurava we diverted from the current walking track to the old wartime track and to the old wartime village area with clumps of bamboo still growing prolifically beside a creek. Some interesting thoughts on accepted details were proposed by Soc here, and evidence of action was found as well as an old hurricane lamp, some old tins and a 44 gallon drum. After a tough morning of up and down, and not on the current track and all in drizzly rain, we reached the current Isurava Memorial. Following a small service we explored the western ridge the site of B Companies action and then on to Alola. From Alola we dropped down to Eora Creek and climbed up to Abuari via the waterfall action site of the 2/16 and 53 rd Battalion. Despite being clearly visible across the valley from Alola the descent, crossing and ascent are reiterations and reminders of the difficulty of the terrain that the campaign covered. Departing Abuari we followed along the contour on a very narrow track through magnificent rainforest to the Eora Creek crossing on the main track - with quite large trout clearly visible. Going back along the main track we visited the mountain gun position of the Japanese, and you can clearly understand the pressure it brought to bear on the Allies from such well dug in positions. That night we camped at Templeton s Crossing named by Bert Kienzle in memory of Uncle Sam Templeton where the war time trail crossed the old mail track. During the war there was no existence of Templeton s 1 and 2 Crossings. As we departed from Templeton s Crossing, the track rises for a long way. Leaving the current track, we veered off on a little used track cut during the war that leads into Myola Lake 2 which is the larger of the Myola Lakes and used during the advance to the northern coast later during the campaign than in the retreat. There is a very well preserved P40 Kittyhawk with its air cannons still evident plus wings and Army quite distinct on its remnants. The crash site is near the village where the airstrip was built on some of the more solid land within the boggy surface of the lake but this plane unfortunately didn t make the strip. Buried munitions at Myola 1. Our route from Myola 2 took us to Myola 1 where the 39 th were able to dump their rotten kit and obtain new boots, webbing and general kit. Remnants of their old kit hobnails and heel plates plus webbing brass pieces were relatively easy to locate in the mud despite the passage of time. Our camp for the night was

Efogi 2 via Naduri and what seems an interminable amount of a little bit of up followed by a little bit of down, and the consistent drizzle which occurs in May. a tremendous accomplishment.

We estimated during our 14 day trip we covered about 150 km and yet much more time could easily have been spent on this most significant campaign in Australia s short history. Brown River Crossing.

Loga Loga being an excellent respite at the end of a long day. The following day took us over the Maguli Range with its many false peaks to the Ofi Creek campsite. Welcome Sanananda.

Fox used to transfer goods down the ridge from Ower s Corner. The Ascent of Mt Pieter Botte - 1896 and 2011 by Peter Blackwood View from Japanese gun position to Eora Creek Crossing.

3 Efogi 2 via Naduri and what seems an interminable amount of a little bit of up followed by a little bit of down, and the consistent drizzle which occurs in May. a tremendous accomplishment. Those who have walked the trail will marvel at the places where timber scaffolding was built to access the rocky cliffs and corners encountered. The seemingly impassable was passed. We estimated during our 14 day trip we covered about 150 km and yet much more time could easily have been spent on this most significant campaign in Australia s short history. Brown River Crossing. Reaching Efogi 1 the next morning we traversed up to Brigade Hill with a good discussion of the campaign, then via Menari and the steep ascent to The Wall descending to Brown River and the camp at Loga Loga being an excellent respite at the end of a long day. The following day took us over the Maguli Range with its many false peaks to the Ofi Creek campsite. Welcome Sanananda. The final day on the trail saw us travel via Ioribaiwa and the numerous crossings of Ua-Ule Creek over Imita Ridge and down the Golden Stairs to Goldie River where we camped at the site of the Flying Fox used to transfer goods down the ridge from Ower s Corner. The Ascent of Mt Pieter Botte and 2011 by Peter Blackwood View from Japanese gun position to Eora Creek Crossing. There is no doubt that the Kokoda Trail is a physical challenge. The history contained within its area is quite amazing, and there is no doubt that Australia s history could have been quite different without the efforts of some exceptional men. The engineering feat of the Japanese to bring their men and mountain guns as far as they did with their horse drawn carts is indeed On the first weekend in October a group of TWC walkers climbed to the twin rock pillars of Mt Pieter Botte, a neighbour of Thornton Peak, near Cape Tribulation. We, of course, were not the first to reach this spectacular coastal landmark. That goes to W. H. Dudley Le Souef, a naturalist and the Director of the Melbourne Zoo, who with six aboriginal men and two settlers from Bloomfield, claimed the first ascent in 1896, and left us with a photographic and written record of their trip. Le Souef, like ourselves, climbed from the coastal side in early October, though taking a more northerly route following Emmegen Creek, rather than the Mt. Sorrow Ridge used today. With fine weather the walk today is a comfortable (leaving aside leeches, humidity, temperature and the 700 m climb on the first day) three days. Le Souef s party took seven, though this included a rest day on Sunday at

their first camp, two ascents of the summit and a collecting day at their second camp. Four days walking in all.

later, apart, perhaps, from his final sentiment, I have no desire to undertake [the walk] again : Le Souef Day 1 & 2 the approach The track for the first mile was through open country, and patches of

Tracks of domestic Pigs gone wild were noticed on several occasions.

took their place the hooting of one of the larger Owls, then the note of the Marbled Owl, and the loud shrill cry of the Scrub Hen.

Up some of the tall trees the Lawyer Palm had climbed, many of their strong vines being over 150 feet in length.

] sides, all the more difficult from the load each had to carry, which left only one hand free.

4 their first camp, two ascents of the summit and a collecting day at their second camp. Four days walking in all. Although their route differs from today s, from Le Souef s description it was not dissimilar in character, and his account and photos could just as well have been a description of our trip 105 years later, apart, perhaps, from his final sentiment, I have no desire to undertake [the walk] again : Le Souef Day 1 & 2 the approach The track for the first mile was through open country, and patches of scrub, and occasionally along the rocky bed of some creek, but after a time we entered thick scrub, which continued all the rest of the way to Peter Botte. Tracks of domestic Pigs gone wild were noticed on several occasions. It gets darker in the scrub under the thick canopy of leaves much sooner than in the open country; and as the shades of evening drew on the notes of the day birds gradually ceased and other calls took their place the hooting of one of the larger Owls, then the note of the Marbled Owl, and the loud shrill cry of the Scrub Hen. Close to the camp grew a group of Fan Palms; they were very beautiful, reflecting the light from their large shining green leaves, which were about three feet in diameter. Up some of the tall trees the Lawyer Palm had climbed, many of their strong vines being over 150 feet in length. At the edge of the scrub a number of Giant Nettle shrubs were growing, and very pretty they looked, with their large, softlooking dark green leaves.[!] sides, all the more difficult from the load each had to carry, which left only one hand free. Sometimes we had to climb from rock to rock up a watercourse, then again on narrow ledges, which were generally covered with loose stones, creepers, roots, etc. We had lunch on the banks of a mountain stream, at the elevation of 2000 feet. The scrub was very dense and often difficult to get through, Lawyer Palms being plentiful; some of their canes of great length trailing on the dark coloured ground like long green snakes, were very slippery to tread on. In some places the ground was covered with loose stones, small ferns and roots, the surface soil having been evidently washed away, leaving a network of roots and stones exposed, many being covered with moss; but it was very rough to walk over. Our camp was well situated at the base of a huge granite boulder, about twenty feet high, forty feet long, and fifteen feet wide. On top were growing fig trees and other shrubs. In the neighbourhood we found many similar large isolated granite boulders. Le Souef Day 3 the approach Our track lay up steep mountain

Le Souef Day 4 climbing the twin summits Early next morning we were awakened by the notes of the

We could only obtain a view of it from our camp by climbing up a tree our old guide [the Aboriginal

and climb before we got to the foot of it.

deep crevices, and were duly thankful at last to reach the foot of the big rock which we had come

Blucher] led the way, marking the track as he went along by breaking and bending down the tops of

We soon crossed one romantic looking stream, the bed being full of big boulders, and the water cold

granite rock, covered with black lichen; it was a relief to get out of the scrub and get a more

5 Le Souef Day 4 climbing the twin summits Early next morning we were awakened by the notes of the different birds. After breakfast a start was made for Peter Botte, about a mile distant. We could only obtain a view of it from our camp by climbing up a tree our old guide [the Aboriginal Passing on, we found a valley between ourselves and our goal, and it was a good hour s stiff walk and climb before we got to the foot of it. We had a good deal of difficulty having to crawl through holes, clamber along edges and jump over deep crevices, and were duly thankful at last to reach the foot of the big rock which we had come so far to ascend. Blucher] led the way, marking the track as he went along by breaking and bending down the tops of small shrubs. We soon crossed one romantic looking stream, the bed being full of big boulders, and the water cold and clear [Roaring Meg Creek] After a time we suddenly came upon about two acres of solid bare granite rock, covered with black lichen; it was a relief to get out of the scrub and get a more distant view. On our ascending a scrub covered rift, we found ourselves between the tops of the mountain, and ascending the smaller (Native name Gimpure, meaning younger sister) up a crack in the rock, in which some small tough shrubs were growing, reached the top. On ascending to the upper portion we caught sight of Peter Botte, seemingly quite close..

We were well rewarded for our exertion by the magnificent view we had of the large, bellshaped mass

rock an Orchid growing, with masses of white flowers and with white and yellow Butterflies flitting

When we got nearly round to the leaning side we thought our progress barred, but by dint of careful

by the weather, and the edge they left, gave us a sufficient but uncertain foothold.

blocks of stone lying close to the central rock and overhanging the forest some 300 feet below.

descended again to the top of the aforementioned rift, and found a natural bridge formed by two

the larger summit As we passed along we found some places very awkward to negotiate.

6 We were well rewarded for our exertion by the magnificent view we had of the large, bellshaped mass of grey granite which constituted the top of Peter Botte (native name Alpaboolal, meaning big top, or Ba Ba, meaning elder sister). It was leaning well towards us, and we saw within three feet of its summit and clinging to the bare rock an Orchid growing, with masses of white flowers and with white and yellow Butterflies flitting about it. When we got nearly round to the leaning side we thought our progress barred, but by dint of careful climbing we were enabled to get up a narrow crevice, where some flat pieces of rock had been detached by the weather, and the edge they left, gave us a sufficient but uncertain foothold. We now soon reached the highest point we could get to, a small platform of bare rock, with some big blocks of stone lying close to the central rock and overhanging the forest some 300 feet below. When we looked up we had a sense of feeling very small, with the large mass of rock overhanging us We descended again to the top of the aforementioned rift, and found a natural bridge formed by two blocks of stone having fallen down and jammed in a crevice, which enabled us to get on to the base of the larger summit As we passed along we found some places very awkward to negotiate. We had to squeeze through narrow crevices, then again scramble through small holes, or go carefully, clinging onto the shrubs near the edge. We found it impossible to ascend any further, and our present height was a little over 3000 feet. We obtained a good view of the top which consisted of an enormous block of granite, perpendicular on one side and overhanging on the other. On the top was a detached fragment, around the edges of which a little vegetation grew. The track back was at times difficult to follow, especially

We then came to a place where we could not trace any track, but found after a time that the natives had climbed down to a small hole between two big boulders, and wriggled through it into an opening

7 among the big boulders, and we had to pass through some curious places. Once our only means of progress was through a long crevice between some rocks, and there was just about room to move along, and at one part sideways. We then came to a place where we could not trace any track, but found after a time that the natives had climbed down to a small hole between two big boulders, and wriggled through it into an opening which enabled them to go on. We went the same way, but I could not get through that hole in a hurry, and got stuck when half way, but my companion hung to my feet below and helped me through. Sources Le Souef, W. H. D (?) Wild Life in Australia. Whitcombe and Tombs Ltd, Melbourne & London The Climb of Mt Peter Botte 1896 Cairns Historical Society Bulletins 549 & 550, Sep & Oct 2007 Originals of Le Souef s photographs are held by the University of Melbourne ( so/lesouef.htm). Le Souef has an entry in the Australian Dictionary of Biography at: Le Souef Day 5 return to the main summit The next day we took another journey to the mountain, but without any natives, and climbed up to the same spot we had reached the day previous. A Rat kept gnawing at our damper during the early part of the night, and in the darkness ran over the face of one of my companions. Le Souef Day 6 collecting Our last day was spent collecting in the neighbourhood of the camp. Le Souef Day 7 return The next morning an early start was made, walking in single file as usual. Merrgo, our dog, found several Scrub Turkeys for us, and we passed two mounds. We arrived at our previous camp at midday, being able to travel faster downhill After an hour s rest we started off again for the coast, with all our luggage, and arrived at Emmagen Creek before sundown, after a hard day s journey and rough and often difficult climbing which I have no desire to undertake again. I hope everyone has a healthy and happy 2012 Just keep walking with the Tablelands Walking Club

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