A CENTURY OF CONSERVATION Dunphys kowmung adventure 2014 SEPTEMBER 26TH TO OCTOBER 6TH KATOOMBA TO PICTON

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1 A CENTURY OF CONSERVATION Dunphys kowmung adventure 2014 SEPTEMBER 26TH TO OCTOBER 6TH KATOOMBA TO PICTON Stage 3 Uni Rover Trail to Yerranderie September 30 to October th st

2 DUNPHY S KOWMUNG ADVENTURE 2014 Stage 3 Dingo Dell to Uni Rover Trail Head September 30 th to October 1 st 2014 Myles Time October 15 th to October 20 th 1914 After the drenching we got in Tuglow Hole, we left for the ridge. I should remind you that as we descended towards the Hole (and this is rightly named) we got a tremendous view of the most magnificent waterfall, one I would say is the best and largest of the Blue Mountains. Bert noticed the falls when he looked around at one stage, a chancy bit of luck as the Falls themselves were side on to us. They appeared through the gap of Tuglow Hole Creek. The waters fall into the Kowmung where it forms a deep and impassable canyon that we were to avoid - only just. After this fateful sighting the going was rough as we slipped and slid to the bottom. It was difficult with swags on too. At the bottom it rained heavily but we had lunch anyway. After lunch we followed a trail up the ridge opposite and learned a lesson or two about navigating in this Tuglow country. We followed a false lead down to a deep ravine and realising our mistake retreated back uphill. At this stage we looked at the maps even though we risked getting them wet in the rain. There was enough detail to indicate we should have climbed still higher up the main range instead of taking the spur to the ravine. A rough fence ran along part of this ridge at an altitude of over 3000ft. Having a rest at the top we could see the country for miles, since the rain had stopped. My hat! It was rough and wild and primeval. After a while wandering along this high ridge, we suddenly saw the Morong Falls again. And as luck would have it, the rain cleared and the sun shone briefly through directly onto the falls as I took a photo. We reckoned the falls were miles away from us. Then it rained and rained something terrible as we descended 2000ft to the river level. We did not even know if there were cliffs near the bottom. The steep rocky DKA3-2

3 ground was suitable only for wallaroos which we saw on the way down. We reached the river level after an hour. We camped here and I am glad to say you won t have to, it was the worst spot ever. The camp is in the lower part of the Morong Deep canyon. However we made the most of it and had a good dry camp until we went to bed and it poured. But the Japara tent miraculously kept us dry. Now came the hardest part of the journey as we negotiated the west bank of the Kowmung and crossed the river in medium flood so we could avoid the floodwaters by climbing the range opposite. Although we had come here to follow the Kowmung all the way to the Coxs, that was now looking unlikely. We climbed the 2000ft ridge on the east side of the Kowmung by zig zagging. Understand that we only had leather soles which slipped easily on wet rock or grass. You, dear friends of the modern bushwalking era, now have it easy with sherpa soles and new fandangled gripping patterns, but great care is still mandatory in this wild country. After climbing we came down again along a most magnificent ridge full of granite standing stones. A little tricky at the bottom but you will finally reach a great camp on the flat below the descent, which I have since called Megalith Ridge. We called this spot Howling Dingo Camp, and I hope you listen all night to see why. Further down the creek we found a hut and I wondered how long it had lasted there. The hut was a godsend as we were able to rest for three days ( THE GREAT DELAY ), dry gear, shoot some game for meat, and replenish our energies. We also explored downstream so we learnt that it would be necessary to once again climb the range. Its over to you now. Myles DKA3-3

4 Track Notes September 30th: From Dingo Dell to Megalith Ridge, Kowmung River at Hanrahans Creek aka Howling Dingo Camp. Standard: Very Hard especially if you have a swag of 50lbs. Conditions: Along a high ridge with tracks to Peatfields Creek note they camped here. Down 2000ft Up 2000ft Down 2000ft. Steep and rough from the west to the Kowmung and steep and slippery up to Morong Hill (locality). Down to a Good Camp Site. And now Adventure Walkers here are your jobs for the day. See the Google Map for the likely location of the place where they viewed Morong Falls ¾ mile from the ridge above Tuglow Hole. This requires a 2014 photo. Is it possible to find the same framing trees as shown in Myles shot? DKA3-4

5 Dunphy s Map 3 in part - showing the route from Dingo Dell to Howling Dog Camp At Peatfields Creek, so named after another of Myles walking friends, = are you able to find the place where they might have camped? It is probably the only flat spot. Since they crossed the Kowmung at this location you can imagine the river s depth as they were up to their necks and Bert went in completely. But most of their gear in the swags and the food in the gunny bags stayed dry. Especially the flour which was their staple carbohydrate used for making damper. DKA3-5

6 Coming down Megalith Ridge, refer to Myles photograph and drawings. You might be able to recognise the giant granite boulders. Myles at first called them Dolmites but corrected this later to megaliths. Naturalist s Note: There have been sightings of platypus in the Kowmung at this location and also Yellow Bellied Gliders, and Powerful Owls. Take note of the Bluegum Trees and there are Red Cedars too. HOWLING DINGO CAMP Before you leave this delightful spot please look for the Marked Tree that was carved by Bert Gallop on the morning they left this site. Here is Myles drawing of the carving: It is on a very large gum tree ( I suggest) 20 paces west of their camp and 150 to 200 yards south of the mouth of Hanrahans Creek. Is the tree still standing? See the likely grid reference. Now make your way down the Kowmung to the site of Venns Hut where the pair stayed for three days. Along the Kowmung to Misery Ridge This next section took our two bush swaggies a lot longer than you will have. They were pretty tired after the saga of Morong Deep and Megalith Ridge, what with all the rain, and negotiating the diversion across the creek just near the bottom - as they were so near yet so far the Kowmung. By going through to the Uni Rover Trail in one day you are avoiding stopping at Venn s Selection but I am asking you to arise early and make sure you spend some time there at GR: DKA3-6

7 Dunphy s Map 3 in part - showing the route from Howling Dog Camp to Lost Rock via Misery Ridge Misery Ridge This is where Bert and Myles decided it was best to go for the Boyd Range. They had never been there before and once again they were depend on the sketchy map and their wits. But it was wet and the very steep grassy start to the ridge was wet. So they zig zagged their way up the first part of the ridge. Keith Muir and I went up this ridge several years ago and found it relatively pleasant. As you make your way up, you will notice the change in gum tree species from the slopes to the plateau, for it is in the gullies and the plateau where the largest specimens are growing. When Keith and I got the plateau we found the trees defoliated, and we found out the cause to be stick insects, of which there are several species. The sun shone through starkly and the ground had dried out from the summer sun even though there had been rain the day before. How different our experience was from Myles s. We even found dead DKA3-7

8 greater gliders on the ground since their sole food. the gum trees had lost all the leaves. If a fire had come through, the forest would have been severely affected by much tree death. Now back to the present task. At the top of the ridge, you wend your way like Dunphy and Gallop, across the flat broad ridge until it seemingly ends in a maze with many bogs or swamps. This is indeed the place where they camped GR: I don t suppose they left any artefacts. But they did not know they were at the hinge point of the plateau where the ridges fan out into Christys Creek and the Kowmung. But they had theories about the route to take which they discussed, and at one stage had a disagreement, although Myles gave Bert the benefit of the doubt, and Bert turned out to be correct. From the Lost Rock you must continue on to the start of the Uni Rover Trail and we will all be camping near the road. This is the camp for the change of crews. But to conclude Myles story... After a pleasant night they spent the next morning exploring and got lost near the boulder which you will pass at GR: Mye;s called it both Lost Rock and later the Dungal Boulder. Feel their anxiety as they realised they were lost, and their relief to know, back at camp that they were on the right ridge, The Boyd Range. This is of course also known as the Uni Rover Trail and used to have reflective markers on it. I know because in the 60s I was one of the SUBW-Uni Rover crew that remarked it. As you walk along it look for the Hall of Mirrors as you go through some thickets of Blue Mountain Mallee ( Eucalyptus stricta or apiculata). Now Myles and Bert set off again after lunch at about 1pm. Yes, they had watches with them and Myles was meticulous about recording the time. But this was a bit late for getting down to the Kowmung and so they had to camp out on the top of the ridge End Stage 3 and Start of Section 4 Uni Rover Trail, Bord Range and Dicksonia Bluff to the Kowmung Lannigans Creek to Camp at Carkeneller Creek Junction DKA3-8

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