Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán

Transcription

1 Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 2007 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow Here s what the critics say about Frommer s: Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete. Booklist Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges. Glamour Magazine Hotel information is close to encyclopedic. Des Moines Sunday Register Frommer s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place. Knight Ridder Newspapers

2

3 Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 2007 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow Here s what the critics say about Frommer s: Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete. Booklist Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges. Glamour Magazine Hotel information is close to encyclopedic. Des Moines Sunday Register Frommer s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place. Knight Ridder Newspapers

4 Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ Copyright 2006 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authorization through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/ , fax 978/ Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Publishing, Inc., Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/ , fax 317/ , or online at Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN-13: ISBN-10: Editor: Jennifer Anmuth Production Editor: Suzanna R. Thompson Cartographer: Andrew Murphy Photo Editor: Richard Fox Anniversary Logo Design: Richard Pacifico Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: Shaded area and beach chair near ocean in Quintana Roo Back cover photo: El Castillo, also known as Pyramid of Kukulcán, at Chichén Itzá For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/ , outside the U.S. at 317/ or fax 317/ Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America

5 Contents List of Maps vi What s New in Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 1 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow 1 The Best of Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 5 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow 1 The Best Beach Vacations The Best Cultural Experiences The Best Archaeological Sites The Best Active Vacations The Best Places to Get Away from It All The Best Museums The Best Shopping The Hottest Nightlife The Most Luxurious Hotels The Best Inexpensive Inns The Best Unique Inns The Best Restaurants Planning Your Trip to the Yucatán 17 by Lynne Bairstow 1 The Regions in Brief Visitor Information Entry Requirements & Customs Money When to Go Yucatan Calendar of Events Travel Insurance Health & Safety Treating & Avoiding Digestive Trouble Specialized Travel Resources Planning Your Trip Online Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource The 21st-Century Traveler Online Traveler s Toolbox Getting There Getting through the Airport Packages for the Independent Traveler The Active Traveler Tips on Accommodations Getting Around Mexico Food & Drink Recommended Books & Films Fast Facts: Mexico

6 iv CONTENTS 3 by David Baird Suggested Yucatán Itineraries 70 1 Northern Yucatán in a Week An Ecoadventure for the Whole Family La Ruta Maya Cancún 76 by Lynne Bairstow 1 Orientation The Best Websites for Cancún Fast Facts: Cancún Where to Stay Where to Dine Beaches, Watersports & Boat Tours Outdoor Activities & Attractions Shopping Cancún After Dark Isla Mujeres & Cozumel 107 by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow 1 Isla Mujeres The Best Websites for Isla Mujeres & Cozumel Fast Facts: Isla Mujeres Cozumel An All-Inclusive Vacation in Cozumel Fast Facts: Cozumel by David Baird The Caribbean Coast: The Riviera Maya, Including Playa del Carmen & the Costa Maya 139 The Best Websites for Playa del Carmen & the Caribbean Coast Playa del Carmen Fast Facts: Playa del Carmen Choosing an All-Inclusive in the Riviera Maya North of Playa del Carmen South of Playa del Carmen Tulum, Punta Allen & Sian Ka an Tulum: A Friendly Difference of Opinion The Sian Ka an Biosphere Reserve Cobá Ruins Majahual, Xcalak & the Chinchorro Reef Lago Bacalar Chetumal Side Trips to Maya Ruins from Chetumal

7 CONTENTS v 7 by David Baird Mérida, Chichén Itzá & the Maya Interior 186 The Best Websites for Mérida, Chichén Itzá & the Maya Interior Mérida: Gateway to the Maya Heartland Festivals & Special Events in Mérida Fast Facts: Mérida Of Haciendas & Hotels The Ruins of Uxmal Campeche Fast Facts: Campeche The Ruins of Chichén Itzá Valladolid by David Baird Tabasco & Chiapas Villahermosa Palenque San Cristóbal de las Casas The Zapatista Movement & Chiapas Fast Facts: San Cristóbal de las Casas Special Events in & near San Cristóbal Tuxtla Gutiérrez Appendix A: The Yucatán in Depth The Land & Its People A Look at the Past Dateline Art & Architecture Religion, Myth & Folklore Gods & Goddesses Appendix B: Useful Terms & Phrases Basic Vocabulary Menu Glossary Index 297 General Index Accommodations Index Restaurant Index

8 List of Maps Mexico 6 The Yucatán Peninsula 18 Tabasco & Chiapas 21 Northern Yucatán in a Week 71 An Ecoadventure for the Whole Family 72 La Ruta Maya 74 Downtown Cancún 79 Isla Cancún (Zona Hotelera) 85 Isla Mujeres 109 San Miguel de Cozumel 127 The Yucatán s Upper Caribbean Coast 141 Playa del Carmen 143 Tulum Ruins 167 The Yucatán s Lower Caribbean Coast 175 What to See & Do in Mérida 195 Where to Stay & Dine in Mérida 201 Kabah Ruins 217 Sayil Ruins 219 Labná Ruins 221 Campeche 225 Villahermosa Area 245 Where to Stay & Dine in Palenque 255 San Cristóbal de las Casas 259 Chiapas Highlands 274 Acknowledgments I would like to acknowledge an enormous debt to Ms. Claudia Hurtado, whose knowledge and contacts in the Riviera Maya smoothed the way for the research of that area. I would also like to extend a personal thanks to all the readers who have taken the time to write me with your suggestions. David Baird I am appreciative of the invaluable contribution of my research assistant, Cecilia Mendicuti, to this book. Lynne Bairstow

9 An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We re sure you ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer s Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán 2007 Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets. About the Authors David Baird has lived in various parts of Latin America, including Mexico, Puerto Rico, Peru, and Brazil. He now makes his home in Austin, Texas, but he tries to get back to the turquoiseblue waters of the Yucatán whenever possible because he thinks he looks good in that color. For Lynne Bairstow, Mexico has become more home than her native United States. For most of the past 15 years, she has lived in Puerto Vallarta, where she has developed a true appreciation and respect for the customs, culture, and natural treasures of Mexico. Her travel articles on Mexico have appeared in the New York Times, Los Angeles Times, Private Air magazine, Luxury Living magazine, and the in-flight magazines of Mexicana Airlines and Alaska Airlines. In 2000, Lynne was awarded the Pluma de Plata, a top honor granted by the Mexican government to foreign writers, for her work in the Frommer s guidebook to Puerto Vallarta. Other Great Guides for Your Trip: Frommer s Mexico Frommer s Portable Acapulco, Ixtapa & Zihuatanejo Frommer s Portable Cancún Frommer s Portable Los Cabos & Baja Frommer s Portable Puerto Vallarta, Manzanillo & Guadalajara The Unofficial Guide to Mexico s Best Beach Resorts

10 Frommer s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for: Finds Fun Fact Kids Moments Overrated Tips Value Special finds those places only insiders know about Fun facts details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family Special moments those experiences that memories are made of Places or experiences not worth your time or money Insider tips great ways to save time and money Great values where to get the best deals The following abbreviations are used for credit cards: AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa DC Diners Club MC MasterCard Frommers.com Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly, we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car rentals and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At Frommers.com, you ll also find the following: Online updates to our most popular guidebooks Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions

11 What s New in Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow There s a lot new in Cancún and the Yucatán, mainly thanks to Mother Nature, which created the area s biggest news story of the year. On October 21, 2005, the Category 4 Hurricane Wilma came ashore Mexico s Yucatán Peninsula with winds reaching 242kmph (150 mph), and then stalled over Cancún for nearly 40 hours. It toppled trees, washed away portions of Cancún s famed white beaches, and damaged the majority of the resort s hotels, restaurants, and attractions. However, relief came quickly because Mexico s government understands the importance of Cancún as its most popular tourism destination. Cancún used the recovery as an opportunity to remake itself renovating hotels, upgrading services, and remarketing itself as a true upscale resort destination, and not merely a spring breaker s party haven an unwanted reputation it was gaining. Today, the results are remarkable the beaches are back, hotels are looking better than ever, and the favorite restaurants, shops, and tours are back in business even if the palm trees seem a little light in their branches, and the presence of construction crews remains. The areas to the south, along the Riviera Maya, suffered less damage and were largely restored. PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO MEX- ICO The Intelligence Reform and Terrorism Prevention Act of 2004 requires that by January 1, 2008, travelers to and from the Caribbean, Bermuda, Panama, Mexico, and Canada have a passport or other secure, accepted document to enter or reenter the United States. As of December 31, 2006, this requirement will apply to all air and sea travel to or from Mexico. As of July 1, 2006, international tourists to Mexico can make tax-free purchases while vacationing, thanks to a law recently passed by Mexico s Congress. The new law will grant international visitors a full refund of the tax added to purchases if the buyer adheres to certain criteria. The merchandise must be purchased in Mexico and verified by airport or seaport Customs, and be verified with a receipt presented at time of departure to be worth at least 1,200 Mexican pesos (approximately US$110 at current exchange rates). Reimbursement to tourists will be contingent upon any added costs a possible return may generate. CANCUN For complete information, see chapter 4. Post Hurricane Wilma Update According to the government s estimates, 40% of the country s tourism income comes from the Caribbean coast. Recovering 15km (9 miles) of eroded beaches was the top priority among Cancún s renewal and restoration projects. The $21-million beach restoration project, which was funded by the private sector and the federal government, is using the

12 2 WHAT S NEW same silky white sand that the area is known for, dredging it from the sea floor not far from Cancún s coastline to create miles of artificial beach along the hardest-hit areas. The project which centered primarily on the southernmost stretch of the city s famous hotel strip, from kilometers 10 through 24 was completed in time for spring break travel in 2006, perfectly restoring Cancún s beautiful beaches. Among other enhancements planned for Cancún are the replanting of 5,000 palm trees, as well as new gardens and sidewalks for the hotel strip s main thoroughfare, Bulevar Kukulkán. A new park has been designed to conserve 6 million hectares (2 1 2 million acres) of land that will house a zoo and a botanical garden among other attractions, and a new bridge will be constructed, designed to alleviate traffic along Bulevar Kukulkán. Highway 307, which services the Riviera Maya, is being expanded. Currently, the highway has two lanes south and two lanes north from downtown Cancún to just south of Playa del Carmen. The expansion project extends this configuration all the way to Tulum. At the Cancún International Airport, construction has begun on a second runway; it s expected to be completed in the fall of A third, state-of-the-art terminal is also under construction, and it will be dedicated to servicing cargo and domestic flights. These steps should greatly improve logistics at the airport. Additionally, the airport recently received new X-ray equipment to examine checked luggage in accordance with the request of the United States. Anticipating these enhanced security measures will require more processing time; all departing passengers using U.S. airspace should be at the airport 3 hours in advance of their flight. To enforce the 3- hour rule, the airport ticket counters will close 40 minutes in advance of flight time. If you have not been processed by that time, you will not be able to board your flight. Despite Mexico s rapid and impressive recovery measures, many U.S. airlines delayed or discontinued service to this area following the hurricane. Delta ( was the exception; it added nonstop service to Cancún from Boston s Logan Airport and Washington s Dulles Airport starting in June In light of Cancún s face-lift, the Mexican government is trying to make the destination more attractive to upscale travelers. New regulations such as prohibiting more than four people sharing a room will be put in place to restrict spring break and student tour groups. The majority of damaged hotels have taken the opportunity to upgrade their facilities and redecorate their rooms, which should ultimately lead to a new and improved Cancún. Accommodations As noted earlier, the majority of hotels in Cancún s hotel zone suffered extensive storm damage. Although renovations are equally extensive, before you make a reservation at least through December 2006 check to ensure that the entire hotel is operational. Priority was placed on reopening rooms, but restaurants, spas, and other amenities followed on the reconstruction priority lists. The Presidente Inter-Continental Cancún (& 800/ ; hotelsgroup.com) reopened its doors on March 10. Although many beachfront properties lost precious sand after the storm, the Presidente Inter-Continental Cancún actually gained more than 4.5m (15 ft.) of sand between it and the ocean. Among its other improvements are a new lobby, renovated guest rooms, and a new club floor on the fifth floor with 36 rooms that brings the total number of club rooms to 52. Additional enhancements include a new oceanfront deck bar,

13 WHAT S NEW 3 a larger pool with five Jacuzzis, and new beach palapas, including one that will be used exclusively for massages. A second phase of upgrades will add a restaurant off the lobby and a new facility for meetings. Call for details. The Ritz-Carlton (Cancún; & 800/ ; expects to reopen in September 2006 after a multimillion-dollar repair and refurbishment project. New facilities and expanded services will include a culinary center offering cooking and wine classes for hotel customers, a tennis program operated by former pro and ESPN commentator Cliff Drysdale, and an upgraded and expanded fitness center. Events A PGA golf tournament will be held in Cancún from February 22 to 25, 2007, with 130 players from the pro tour expected to participate. The winner will receive $650,000, and the tournament is guaranteed for the destination for the next 6 years using various golf courses in the area. By the end of 2007, the Cancún area will have a total of 16 golf courses. ISLA MUJERES & COZUMEL For complete information, see Chapter 5. Cozumel The island suffered extensive damage from Hurricane Wilma to all the coastal areas. The inland parts of the town did okay except for some minor flooding. The shoreline boulevard, Avenida Rafael Melgar, was completely wrecked from the storm surge, but the locals, with help from the federal government, were able to make repairs and replant trees in an amazingly short span of time. The town s shopping district is already back to normal. All the beach hotels had to close for repairs but most have since reopened. Many have taken the opportunity to make improvements, so now is actually a great time to visit the island. Not only will you be enjoying a new mattress, but you might find that your favorite hotel has added extra amenities. Nearly all the hotels recommended in this book are scheduled to reopen by the fall of Hotel Sol Cabañas Caribe will probably not reopen. Properties on the north side of the island lost beach, but the hotels have trucked in plenty of sand, and visitors won t notice any difference. In the south, hotels gained beach. The municipal pier, where the ferries for Playa del Carmen dock, is fine, and ferry service is close to almost normal. The three cruise-ship piers are closed and one, the Puerta Maya, is a total loss. Cruise ships are using tender boats to ferry passengers to and from the island. This seems to be working fine. The Chankanaab Park opens this summer, along with the dolphin swim outfit inside the park. The effect on the island s reefs is mixed. In deeper areas, the currents produced by the hurricane swept sand away from the walls, exposing more caverns. On the shallower reefs, the delicate structures, such as fan coral, were lost, and it will be a year or two before they come back. The vegetation on the island will also take about a year to come back. THE RIVIERA MAYA This coast suffered two hurricanes in The first was Emily, which made landfall near the resorts of Xpu-Ha and Puerto Aventuras, then moved quickly inland and to the north. It damaged properties along a fairly narrow swath. Next came Wilma, a much more powerful storm that grazed the northern shore of the Riviera Maya, around Puerto Morelos, before hitting Cancún. It caused extensive damage to beach properties. For complete information on this region, see chapter 6. Puerto Morelos & Environs Beach properties, particularly a couple of condo complexes, suffered extensive damage here. Hotels in the region were closed for

14 4 WHAT S NEW many months to do repairs, but all of the spa hotels are expected to reopen by the fall of A new adventure tour outfit, Selvática (& 998/ ; mx), has set up more than 2km (1 1 4 miles) of zip lines through the forest canopy at a spot inland from Puerto Morelos. They are trucking guests there from Cancún and most of the hotels along the Riviera Maya. The outfit has had success with a similar concept in Costa Rica. The nature park Tres Ríos is closed, and it s not certain when it will reopen. But this was not a consequence of the hurricane; it closed before Wilma arrived. Tulum The highway to Cobá is presently under construction; expect some slowdowns. Playa del Carmen Though Playa was damaged by Wilma, you won t notice any damage now. The guys who work on palapa roofs can move real quickly. Road construction is ongoing on Highway 307 between Playa and Tulum, as crews widen the road to four lanes. There s a new hotel in Playa that was opened by the same people behind Hotel Deseo. It s called Hotel Básico (& 984/ ; and like its sister, it enjoys some novel touches. The design is industrial, with flourishes reminiscent of the 1950s. MERIDA, CHICHEN ITZA & THE MAYA INTERIOR For complete information on this region, see chapter 7. Mérida There s a new day trip from the city to a fully functional henequén hacienda, Sotuta de Peón (& 999/ ; It functions much as all these haciendas did at the turn of the last century before the market crashed. The owner refurbished not only the house, but planted acres of henequén and completely refurbished the heavy machinery used to separate the fibers of the plant from the pulp. The tour is quite impressive. And don t forget your swimsuit; there s a cenote (a sinkhole or natural well that only exists in the Yucatán region) for swimming on the property. Campeche The city has a fancy new hotel inside the walled historic center: Hacienda Puerta Campeche (& 800/ ; It s managed by Starwood Hotels and is rather pricey, but even if you don t stay there, check out its rooftop bar. With a view of the city s land gate, it s a pleasant place to have a drink in the evening. Valladolid A bus now leaves from the main square and goes directly to the ruins of Ek Balam every morning. Holbox A few of the beach hotels still haven t recovered from the hurricane, but most are open. The beach is as broad and sandy as ever. And the last time I drove it, the highway into the area was in good shape.

15 The Best of Cancún, Cozumel & the Yucatán by David Baird & Lynne Bairstow 1 The Yucatán Peninsula welcomes more visitors than any other part of Mexico. Its tremendous variety attracts every kind of traveler with an unequaled mix of sophisticated resorts, rustic inns, ancient Maya culture, exquisite beaches, and exhilarating adventures. Between the two of us, we ve logged thousands of miles crisscrossing the peninsula, and these are our personal favorites the best places to go, the best restaurants, the best hotels, and must-see, one-of-a-kind experiences. 1 The Best Beach Vacations Cancún: Despite extensive damage from October 2005 s Hurricane Wilma, Cancún s legendary beaches are rapidly being restored to their splendor, thanks in large part to a $19-million, government-sponsored beach renewal program. In terms of sheer beauty, Cancún has always been the site of Mexico s best beaches. The powdery, white-sand beaches boast water the color of a Technicolor dream; it s so clear you can see through to the coral reefs below. Cancún offers the widest assortment of luxury beachfront hotels, with more restaurants, nightlife, and activities than any other resort destination in the country. See chapter 4. Isla Mujeres: If laid-back is what you re after, this idyllic island offers peaceful, small-town beach life at its best. Most accommodations are smaller, inexpensive inns, with a few unique, luxurious places tossed in. Bike or take a golf cart around the island to explore rocky coves and sandy beaches, or focus your tanning efforts on the wide beachfront of Playa Norte. Here you ll find calm waters and palapa restaurants, where you can have fresh-caught fish for lunch. You re close to great diving and snorkeling just offshore, as well as Isla Contoy National Park, which features great bird life and its own dramatic, uninhabited beach. If all that tranquillity starts to get to you, you re only a ferry ride away from the action in Cancún. See chapter 5. Cozumel: It may not have lots of big, sandy beaches, but Cozumel has something the mainland doesn t: the calm, flat waters of the sheltered western shore. It s so easy that it s like swimming in an aquarium. Cozumel also has lots to see under the water. See chapter 5. Playa del Carmen: This is one of our absolute favorite Mexican beach vacations. Stylish and hip, Playa del Carmen has a beautiful beach and an eclectic assortment of small hotels, inns, and cabanas. The social scene focuses on the beach by day and the

16 6 CHAPTER 1. THE BEST OF CANCÚN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATÁN Mexico Tijuana Mexicali UNITED STATES Ensenada 2 BAJA CALIFORNIA NORTE Puerto Nogales Penasco San Quintin 15 1 Guerrero Isla Negro Cedros Santa Rosalia Mulegé Gulf of California (Sea of Cortés) BAJA CALIFORNIA SUR Loreto 2 45 SONORA 10 Hermosillo CHIHUAHUA Chihuahua Cuidad Cuauhtémoc Obregón Delicias SINALOA Ciudad Juárez Hidalgo del Parral Los Mochis Ojinaga COAHUILA Monclova Torreón 40 Saltillo Culiacán DURANGO 1 La Paz 15 Sea of Cortés Durango 40 Fresnillo 54 Todos Santos San José Mazatlán ZACATECAS Cabo San Lucas del Cabo Zacatecas San 15 Luis Potosí Tuxpan AGUASCALIENTES San Blas Tepic Aguascalientes Islas Marias NAYARIT León Puerto Vallarta Guadalajara Guanajuato GUANA- JALISCO Lake Chapala JUATO Morelia Barra de Navidad Uruapan Manzanillo Colima Pátzcuaro COLIMA MICHOACAN PACIFIC OCEAN Lázaro Cárdenas Zihuatanejo & Ixtapa km 150 mi N

17 THE BEST BEACH VACATIONS 7 UNITED STATES Piedras Negras Nuevo Laredo 85D Monterrey Matamoros 180 NUEVO LEÓN 85 TAMAULIPAS Ciudad Victoria Gulf of Mexico Ciudad Mante Tampico Río Lagartos SAN LUIS Isla POTOSÍ Progreso Mujeres Valladolid San Miguel Tuxpan 180 Cancún de Allende Celestún Mérida Cozumel QUERÉTARO Poza Rica YUCATÁN Playa del HIDALGO Papantla Carmen Querétaro Campeche Punta Pachuca 180 QUINTANA Allen Mexico City Bay of of ROO TLAXCALA Xalapa CAMPECHE Toluca Campeche Bacalar Tlaxcala 261 Veracruz Majahual Cuernavaca Puebla Escárcega Peninsula MORELOS PUEBLA Orizaba Catemaco Chetumal TABASCO 95 Tehuacán Taxco VERACRUZ Villahermosa 186 CARIBBEAN 190D Coatzacoalcos GUERRERO 175 Palenque BELIZE SEA 186 Tuxtla San Cristóbal Oaxaca Acapulco Gutiérrez de las Casas 200 OAXACA CHIAPAS Salina Comitan GUATEMALA Puerto Escondido Cruz Huatulco 200 Puerto Ángel HONDURAS Gulf of Tapachula Tehuantepec EL SALVADOR

18 8 CHAPTER 1. THE BEST OF CANCÚN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATÁN pedestrian-only Quinta Avenida (Fifth Avenue) by night, with its fun assortment of restaurants, clubs, sidewalk cafes, and shops. You re also close to the coast s major attractions, including nature parks, ruins, and, cenotes (sinkholes or natural wells). Cozumel Island is just a quick ferry trip away. Enjoy it while it s still a manageable size. See chapter 6. Tulum: Fronting some of the best beaches on the entire coast, Tulum s 2 The Best Cultural Experiences Exploring the Inland Yucatán Peninsula: Travelers who venture only to the Yucatán s resorts and cities miss the rock-walled inland villages, where women wear colorful embroidered dresses and life seems to proceed as though the modern world (with the exception of highways) didn t exist. The adventure of seeing newly uncovered ruins, deep in jungle settings, is not to be missed. See chapters 6 and 7. Street & Park Entertainment (Mérida): Few cities have so vibrant a street scene as Mérida. Throughout the week you can catch music and dance performances in plazas about the city, and on Sunday, Mérida really gets going streets are closed off, food stalls spring up everywhere, and you can enjoy a book fair, a flea market, comedy acts, band concerts, and dance groups. At night, the main plaza is the place to be: People dance to mambos and rumbas in the street in front of the town hall. See chapter 7. 3 The Best Archaeological Sites Calakmul: Of the many elegantly built Maya cities of the Río Bec area in the lower Yucatán, Calakmul is the broadest in scope and design. It s also one of the hardest to get to about small palapa hotels offer guests a little slice of paradise far from crowds and megaresorts. The bustling town lies inland; at the coast, things are quiet and will remain so because all these hotels are small and must generate their own electricity. If you can pull yourself away from the beach, nearby are ruins to explore and a vast nature preserve. See chapter 6. San Cristóbal de las Casas: The city of San Cristóbal is a living museum, with 16th-century colonial architecture and pre-hispanic native influences. The highland Maya live in surrounding villages and arrive daily in town wearing colorful handmade clothing. The villages are a window into another world, giving visitors a glimpse of traditional Indian dress, religious customs, churches, and ceremonies. See chapter 8. Regional Cuisine: A trip to the Yucatán allows for a culinary tour of some of Mexico s finest foods. Don t miss specialties such as pollo or cochinita pibil (chicken or pork in savory achiote sauce), great seafood dishes, the many styles of tamal found throughout Chiapas and the Yucatán, and Caribbean-influenced foods such as fried bananas, black beans, and yucca root. For a glossary of popular regional dishes, see appendix B. 48km (30 miles) from the Guatemalan border and completely surrounded by jungle (actually, the Calakmul Biological Reserve). Calakmul is a walled city with the tallest pyramid in the

19 THE BEST ACTIVE VACATIONS 9 Yucatán a city whose primary inhabitants are the trees that populate the plazas. Go now, while it remains infrequently visited. See Side Trips to Maya Ruins from Chetumal in chapter 6. Tulum: Some dismiss Tulum as less important than other ruins in the Yucatán Peninsula, but this seaside Maya fortress is still inspiring. The stark contrast of its crumbling stone walls against the clear turquoise ocean just beyond is an extraordinary sight. See Tulum, Punta Allen & Sian Ka an in chapter 6. Uxmal: No matter how many times we see Uxmal, the splendor of its stone carvings remains awe-inspiring. A stone rattlesnake undulates across the facade of the Nunnery complex, and 103 masks of Chaac the rain god project from the Governor s Palace. See The Ruins of Uxmal in chapter 7. Chichén Itzá: Stand beside the giant serpent head at the foot of the El Castillo pyramid and marvel at the 4 The Best Active Vacations Scuba Diving in Cozumel & along the Yucatán s Caribbean Coast: The coral reefs off the island, Mexico s premier diving destination, are among the top five dive spots in the world. The Yucatán s coastal reef, part of the second-largest reef system in the world, affords excellent diving all along the coast. Especially beautiful is the Chinchorro Reef, lying 32km (20 miles) offshore from Majahual or Xcalak. Diving from Isla Mujeres is also quite spectacular. See chapters 5 and 6. Fly-Fishing off the Punta Allen & Majahual Peninsulas: Serious anglers will enjoy the challenge of fly-fishing the saltwater flats and lagoons on the protected sides of these peninsulas. See Tulum, Punta Allen & Sian Ka an and Majahual, Xcalak & the Chinchorro Reef in chapter 6. architects and astronomers who positioned the building so precisely that shadow and sunlight form a serpent s body slithering from peak to the earth at each equinox (Mar 21 and Sept 21). See The Ruins of Chichén Itzá in chapter 7. Ek Balam: In recent years, this is the site where some of Mexico s most astounding archaeological discoveries have been made. Ek Balam s main pyramid is taller than Chichén Itzá s, and it holds a sacred doorway bordered with elaborate stucco figures of priests and kings and rich iconography. See Ek Balam: Dark Jaguar in chapter 7. Palenque: The ancient builders of these now-ruined structures carved histories in stone that scholars have only recently deciphered. Imagine the magnificent ceremony in A.D. 683 when King Pacal was buried below ground in a secret pyramidal tomb unspoiled until its discovery in See Palenque in chapter 8. Cenote Diving on the Yucatán Mainland: Dive into the clear depths of the Yucatán s cenotes for an interesting twist on underwater exploration. The Maya considered the cenotes sacred and their vivid colors do seem otherworldly. Most are between Playa del Carmen and Tulum, and dive shops in these areas regularly run trips for experienced divers. For recommended dive shops, see Cozumel in chapter 5, and Playa del Carmen and South of Playa del Carmen in chapter 6. An Excursion to Bonampak & Yaxchilán: Bonampak and Yaxchilán two remote, jungle-surrounded Maya sites along the Usumacinta River are now accessible by car and motorboat. The experience could well be the highlight of any trip. See Road Trips from San Cristóbal in chapter 8.

20 10 CHAPTER 1. THE BEST OF CANCÚN, COZUMEL & THE YUCATÁN Birding: The Yucatán Peninsula, Tabasco, and Chiapas are an ornithological paradise, with hundreds of species awaiting the birder s gaze and list. One very special place is Isla Contoy, with more than 70 species of birds as well as a host of marine and animal life. See p. 115, chapter 6, and chapter 8. 5 The Best Places to Get Away from It All Isla Mujeres: If there s one island in the U.S., or 983/ ; www. Mexico that guarantees a respite from encantado.com): The attractive casitas stress, it s Isla Mujeres. You ll find an are the place to unwind at this resort, ample selection of hotels and restaurants, and they re as laid-back as their trees. The hotel is on the shores of where hammocks stretch between patrons. Here life moves along in placid Lago (Lake) Bacalar, south of pure mañana mode. Visitors stretch Cancún near Chetumal, and there s out and doze beneath shady palms or nothing around for miles. But if you languidly stroll about. For many, the want adventure, you can head out to best part about this getaway is that it s the lake in a kayak, follow a birding comfortably close to Cancún s international airport, as well as to shop- and the intriguing Maya ruins on the trail, or take an excursion to Belize ping and dining, should you choose nearby Río Bec ruin route. See p to reconnect. See Isla Mujeres in Hotel Eco Paraíso Xixim (Celestún; chapter 5. & 988/ ; The Yucatán s Riviera Maya: Away htm): In these crowded times, space from the busy resort of Cancún, a is a luxury that s getting harder to string of quiet getaways, including come by. Space is precisely what Capitán Lafitte, Paamul, Punta Bete, makes this place so great: Fifteen and a portion of Xpu-ha, offer tranquillity on beautiful beaches at beach bordering a coconut planta- bungalows and 5km (3 miles) of low prices. See North of Playa del tion. Throw in a good restaurant, a Carmen and South of Playa pool, and a couple of hammocks, and del Carmen in chapter 6. you have that rare combination of Tulum: Near the Tulum ruins, about comfort and isolation. See p two dozen beachside palapa inns offer Hacienda San José Cholul: Though some of the most peaceful getaways only an hour outside the bustling city in the country. This stretch just of Mérida, this hacienda feels like might offer the best sandy beaches on another world. The quiet, unhurried the entire coast. Life here among the manner of both guests and staff and birds and coconut palms is decidedly the beautiful tropical surroundings unhurried. See Tulum, Punta Allen make it the perfect place to recoup & Sian Ka an in chapter 6. some of the silence and slow time lost Rancho Encantado Cottage Resort to the modern world. See Of (Lago Bacalar; & 800/ ) in Haciendas & Hotels on p The Best Museums Museo de la Cultura Maya (Chetumal): This modern museum, one of the best in the country, explores Maya archaeology, architecture, history, and mythology. It has interactive exhibits and a glass floor that