Contents. On the Road 4. Greece Highlights 6. Destination Greece 17. Getting Started 19. Events Calendar 23. Itineraries 26.

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1 Contents On the Road 4 Greece Highlights 6 Destination Greece 17 Getting Started 19 Events Calendar 23 Itineraries 26 History 32 A Who s Who of the Ancient Greek Pantheon 53 The Culture 56 Food & Drink 76 Environment 87 Architecture 93 Athens & Attica 101 ATHENS 102 History 102 Orientation 104 Information 106 Dangers & Annoyances 107 Sights 118 Activities 134 Walking Tour 134 Courses 136 Athens for Children 136 Tours 137 Festivals & Events 137 Sleeping 138 Eating 143 Lonely Planet 13 Drinking 147 Entertainment 148 Shopping 151 Getting There & Away 152 Getting Around 155 PIRAEUS 158 History 158 Orientation 159 Information 159 Sights 159 Sleeping 159 Eating & Drinking 161 Shopping 161 Getting There & Away 161 Getting Around 161 ATTICA 161 Cape Sounion 162 Elefsina (Eleusis) 162 Marathon & Around 162 Vravrona 164 Rafina 164 Lavrio 164 Around Peania 164 Mt Parnitha 165 Peloponnese 166 History 167 ACHAÏA 167 Patra 167 Diakofto 173 Zahlorou 175 Kalavryta 175 Around Kalavryta 176 CORINTHIA 177 Corinth 177 Ancient Corinth 180 & Acrocorinth Corinth Canal 181 Isthmia/Kyras Vrysi 182 Ancient Nemea 182 ARGOLIS 182 Argos 183 Mycenae 184 Nafplio 186 Tiryns 192 Epidavros 192 Southwest Argolis 194 ARKADIA 194 Tripoli 195 Megalopoli 196 Central Arkadia 196

2 14 CONTENTS Kynouria 198 LAKONIA 199 Sparta 200 Mystras 202 Langada Pass 205 Monemvasia & Gefyra 205 Neapoli 207 Gythio 208 THE MANI 209 Lakonian Mani 210 Messinian Mani 213 MESSINIA 216 Kalamata 216 Mavromati 219 (Ancient Messini) Koroni 220 Finikounda 220 Methoni 221 Pylos 222 Gialova 223 Around Gialova 224 ELIA 225 Tholos to Pyrgos 225 Pyrgos 225 Around Pyrgos 225 Olympia 226 Andritsena 230 Kyllini 230 KYTHIRA & ANTIKYTHIRA 231 Kythira 231 Antikythira 236 Central Greece 237 STEREA ELLADA 238 Thiva (Thebes) 238 Around Thiva 238 Livadia 240 Delphi 240 Around Delphi 245 Mt Parnassos 246 Arahova 247 Livadia to Delphi 248 Galaxidi 248 Nafpaktos 249 Messolongi 250 Around Messolongi 251 Karpenisi 252 Around Karpenisi 253 Lamia 254 Iti National Park 255 Agios Konstantinos 255 Theologos 256 THESSALY 256 Larisa 256 Around Larisa 258 Volos 258 Around Volos 261 Pelion 261 Trikala 270 Around Trikala 271 Meteora 272 Kalambaka 275 Kastraki 277 Northern Greece 279 MACEDONIA 280 Thessaloniki 282 Around Thessaloniki 298 Halkidiki 298 Kavala 306 Pella 310 Litohoro 310 Around Litohoro 311 Veria 312 Vergina 313 Edessa 314 Florina 315 Prespa Lakes 317 Kastoria 319 THRACE 322 Xanthi 322 Around Xanthi 325 Komotini 326 Alexandroupoli 327 Evros Delta 330 Alexandroupoli to Soufli 330 Didymotiho 331 Orestiada 332 Around Orestiada 333 EPIROS 334 Metsovo 334 Ioannina 337 Around Ioannina 340 The Zagorohoria 342 Konitsa 346 Around Konitsa 347 Preveza 348 Around Preveza 350 Parga 350 Around Parga 352 Igoumenitsa 352 Saronic Gulf Islands 355 AEGINA 356 Aegina 357 Around Aegina 359 ANGISTRI 360 POROS 361 Poros 362 Around Poros 363 Peloponnesian Mainland 363 HYDRA 364 Hydra 365 Around Hydra 367 SPETSES 368 Spetses 368 Around Spetses 371 Cyclades 372 History 373 ANDROS 374 Gavrio 374 Batsi 375 Hora (Andros) 376 Around Andros 377 TINOS 378 Hora (Tinos) 379 Around Tinos 380 SYROS 381 Ermoupolis 383 Galissas 385 Around Syros 386 MYKONOS 386 Hora (Mykonos) 388 Around Mykonos 393 DELOS 395 Ancient Delos 395 PAROS 397 Parikia 398 Naousa 402 Around Paros 403 ANTIPAROS 404 NAXOS 406 Hora (Naxos) 406 Around Naxos 411 LITTLE CYCLADES 414 Iraklia 415 Schinousa 416 Koufonisia 417 Donousa 418 AMORGOS 419 Katapola 420 Hora 421 Moni Hozoviotissis 421 Aegiali 422 Around Amorgos 422 IOS 423 Hora, Ormos & Mylopotas 423 Around Ios 427 SANTORINI (THIRA) 427 Fira 429 Around Santorini 434 Thirasia & Volcanic Islets 438 ANAFI 438

3 CONTENTS 15 SIKINOS 439 FOLEGANDROS 440 Karavostasis 441 Hora 442 Around Folegandros 443 MILOS 444 Adamas 445 Plaka & Trypiti 446 Around Milos 447 KIMOLOS 447 SIFNOS 447 Kamares 448 Apollonia 449 Around Sifnos 449 SERIFOS 450 Livadi 451 Hora 452 Around Serifos 452 KYTHNOS 453 Merihas 453 Around Kythnos 454 KEA (TZIA) 454 Korissia 455 Ioulida 456 Around Kea 456 Crete 457 History 458 Getting There & Away 460 Getting Around 460 CENTRAL CRETE 460 Iraklio 460 Cretaquarium 469 Knossos 469 Other Minoan Sites 471 Arhanes 472 Zaros & Around 473 Matala 473 Rethymno 473 Moni Arkadiou 478 Anogia 478 Plakias 479 Around Plakias 480 Agios Pavlos & Triopetra 481 Agia Galini 482 WESTERN CRETE 482 Hania 483 Around Hania 491 Samaria Gorge 491 Hora Sfakion 492 Around Hora Sfakion 494 Frangokastello 494 Anopoli & Inner Sfakia 494 Sougia 495 Paleohora 496 Elafonisi & Kedrodasos 498 Azogires 498 Gavdos Island 499 Kissamos 500 Around Kissamos 501 EASTERN CRETE 501 Lasithi Plateau 501 Agios Nikolaos 502 Around Agios Nikolaos 505 Mohlos 506 Sitia 507 Around Sitia 508 Kato Zakros & 508 Ancient Zakros Ierapetra 509 Around Ierapetra 510 Dodecanese 511 History 512 RHODES 512 Rhodes 516 Eastern Rhodes 524 Western Rhodes & 528 the Interior Southern Rhodes 529 HALKI 530 Emborios 531 Around Halki 532 KARPATHOS 532 Pigadia 533 Southern Karpathos 536 Northern Karpathos 537 KASOS 539 Fry 539 Around Kasos 540 KASTELLORIZO (MEGISTI) 541 Kastellorizo Village 542 SYMI 543 Gialos 545 Around Symi 547 TILOS 547 Livadia 548 Megalo Horio 550 Around Megalo Horio 550 NISYROS 551 Mandraki 552 Around Nisyros 554 KOS 555 Kos 557 Around Kos 561 ASTYPALEA 562 Skala & Hora 563 Livadi 564 West of Skala 565 East of Skala 565 KALYMNOS 565 Pothia 567 Around Pothia 569 Myrties, Masouri & Armeos 569 Telendos Islet 570 Emborios 570 Vathys & Rina 571 LEROS 571 Platanos & Agia Marina 571 Pandeli 573 Vromolithos 573 Lakki 574 Xirokambos 574 Krithoni & Alinda 574 Northern Leros 575 PATMOS 575 Skala 576 Hora 579 North of Skala 579 South of Skala 580 LIPSI 580 Lipsi Village 580 Around the Island 582 ARKI & MARATHI 582 Arki 583 Marathi 583 AGATHONISI 583 Agios Georgios 584 Around Agathonisi 584 Northeastern Aegean Islands 585 IKARIA & THE FOURNI 587 ISLANDS Agios Kirykos 588 Around Agios Kirykos 589 Evdilos 589 West of Evdilos 591 The Fourni Islands 594 SAMOS 595 Vathy (Samos) 597 Around Vathy (Samos) 599 Pythagorio 600 Around Pythagorio 602 Southwestern Samos 602 Northern Samos 602 CHIOS 604 Chios 606 Central Chios 608 Northern Chios 609 Southern Chios 610 INOUSSES 612 PSARA 613 LESVOS (MYTILINI) 616

4 16 CONTENTS Mytilini 618 South of Mytilini 621 Northern Lesvos 621 Western Lesvos 624 Southern Lesvos 626 LIMNOS 627 Myrina 629 Western Limnos 630 Central Limnos 631 Eastern Limnos 631 AGIOS EFSTRATIOS 631 SAMOTHRAKI 632 Kamariotissa 633 Hora 634 Sanctuary of 634 the Great Gods Around Samothraki 635 THASOS 636 Thasos (Limenas) 637 West Coast 639 East Coast 641 Evia & the Sporades 643 EVIA 644 Central Evia 645 Northern Evia 647 Southern Evia 648 SKIATHOS 650 Skiathos 651 Around Skiathos 653 SKOPELOS 655 Skopelos 655 Glossa & Loutraki 658 Around Skopelos 658 ALONNISOS 659 Patitiri 660 Old Alonnisos 662 Around Alonnisos 663 Islets Around Alonnisos 664 SKYROS 664 Skyros 666 Magazia & Molos 668 Around Skyros 669 Ionian Islands 671 History 672 CORFU 673 Corfu 675 North & Northwest 681 of Corfu South of Corfu 682 West Coast 683 PAXI 684 Gaïos 686 Loggos 687 Lakka 687 Antipaxi 688 LEFKADA 688 Lefkada 689 East Coast & Surrounds 691 Vasiliki 691 West Coast & Around 692 Central Lefkada 692 Meganisi 692 KEFALLONIA 693 Argostoli 695 Sami & Surrounds 697 Assos 698 Around Assos 698 Fiskardo 699 ITHAKI 700 Vathy 700 Around Ithaki 701 ZAKYNTHOS 702 Zakynthos 704 Around Zakynthos 706 Evia & the Sporades p644 Athens & Attica pp Directory 709 Transport 725 Island Hopping 738 Health 764 Language 767 Glossary 775 The Authors 777 Behind the Scenes 780 Index 787 Map legend 804 Regional Map Contents Ionian Islands p672 Central Greece p237 Northern Greece p279 Peloponnese pp168 9 Saronic Gulf Islands p356 Cyclades p373 Crete pp458 9 Northeastern Aegean Islands p586 Dodecanese p513

5 Lecce I T A L Y A D R I A T I C Otranto 40 N CORFU (p673) The garden isle of Greece, product of centuries of historic influences and a modern-day holiday paradise 38 N I O N I A N Durrës TIRANA Vlora Erikousa Pelekas A L B A N I A Berat Corfu Korça METEORA (p272) Monasteries atop sheer rock make for one of Greece's most stunning and spiritual sites Corfu IONIAN ISLANDS Antipaxi DELPHI (p240) Navel of the ancient world and home to the famous oracle that influenced the course of Greek history Kefallonia Konitsa Ioannina Igoumenitsa Preveza Lefkada Lefkada Zakynthos DIAKOFTO (p173) Dramatic rack-and-pinion train journey through the gorgeous Vouraïkos Gorge to Kalavryta Amfilohia Arta Mytikas SKOPJE Kotas Bitola Kastoria Metsovo Kalambaka Prilep Florina Kozani Trikala THESSALY Karditsa Agrinio Nafpaktos STEREA ELLADA HALKIDIKI (p298) Fascinatingly diverse and home to superb wineries, secluded beaches and the monastic community of Mt Athos Kilkis MACEDONIA Edessa Veria Karpenisi Delphi Thessaloniki Lakonian Gulf Volos Lamia Loutra Edipsou Livadia Halkidiki Gerakini Serres Gulf of Kassandra Strofylia Halkida Mt Gulf of Thiva Parnitha Patra Patra Diakofto Gulf of (Thebes) (1413m) Corinth ATTICA Derveni Perahora Rafina ATHENS Kyllini Xylokastro Agios Kalavryta Loutraki Nikolaos Amaliada Corinth Piraeus Salamina Zakynthos Mycenae Saronic Olympia Gulf Argos Pyrgos Nafplio Aegina Sami Argostoli Mt Gamila (2497m) EPIROS Parga Paxi F O R M E R Y U G O S L A V R E P U B L I C O F M A C E D O N I A THESSALONIKI (p282) Greece's dynamic second city, home to great culture and sophisticated nightlife THE MANI (p209) Prespa Lakes Mt Grammos (2520m) Mt Smolikas (2637m) Arahthos Aheloös Ithaki Messolongi The remote jewel of the Peloponnese, steeped with Maniot history and extraordinary architecture Aliakmonas Mt Olympus (2918m) Farsala Andritsena Tripoli Poros Megalopoli Hydra Kyparissia Spetses Hydra PELOPONNESE SARONIC Leonidio GULF ISLANDS Sparta Kalamata Geraki HYDRA (p364) Kardamyli Shaped by generations of Pylos Methoni Koroni Gythio Areopoli Lakonian Mani Gerolimenas Vergina Lake Aliakmonas Mt Ossa (1978m) Meteora Larisa Lake Kremasta Mt Iti (2125m) Mt Parnassos Ancient (2457m) Delphi Elafonisi Kassandra ALONNISOS (p659) Cruise the pristine waters of the National Marine Park of Alonnisos, home to many protected species Pelion Skiathos Skopelos Neapoli Alonnisos THE ACROPOLIS (p118) The most iconic monument of ancient Greece famous seafarers who created one of the most beautiful island towns in Europe M Y R T O Ö N Kythira 36 N M E D I T E R R A N E A N Antikythira Rodopos 20 E 22 E Gramvousa Kissamos ELEVATION LEGEND Paleohora 3000m Freeway 2000m 1000m 500m Primary Railway 80 km 50 miles

6 Asenovgrad Haskovo B U L G A R I A Smolyan Edirne T U R K E Y B L A C K Mt Falakro (2111m) Drama Xanthi THRACE Didymotiho Dadia Forest Reserve Komotini Evros ÎSTANBUL Îzmit Kavala Alexandroupoli O F M A R M A R A Thasos T H R A C I A N Karyes Mt Athos (2033m) Athos SPORADES Gioura Piperi Kyra Panagia Samothraki Imvros (Gökçeada) Limnos Myrina NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS Agios Efstratios Lesvos Gallipoli Çanakkale Ayvalîk Bandîrma Balîkesir Bursa Skantzoura Mytilini Skyros Ušak Kymi Manisa Inousses A E G E A N Psara Îzmir Evia Chios Çešme T U R K E Y Nea Styra Chios FOURNI ISLANDS (p594) Karystos Sample Greece's finest lobster on this Aydin serene archipelago of gently sloping Denizli Kušadasî islets, hidden coves and long sunsets Samos Gavrio Lavrio Andros Ikaria PATMOS (p575) Tinos Where St John wrote the Book of Gyaros Revelations and now a Agathonisi Kea Mykonos Fourni laid-back artistic hang-out Arki (Tzia) Syros Islands Milas Renia Delos Lipsi Farmako Kythnos Patmos Naxos Paros Leros Serifos Donousa Hora Bodrum (Naxos) Marmaris Kos Sifnos Kalymnos Antiparos Datça KOS (p555) Kimolos Amorgos Little Kos Cycle to long, powder-soft beaches sandwiched between Sikinos Cyclades lush landscapes and azure water Ios Nisyros Milos Symi Folegandros Santorini Astypalea Rhodes Thirasia (Thira) Anafi Tilos Kaš CYCLADES Alimia SANTORINI (p427) World-famous destination where a sophisticated lifestyle and Greek culture merge with spectacular landscapes Akrotiri Hania Hora Sfakion Gavdopoula Gavdos CRETE Rethymno O F C R E T E Mt Ida (2456m) Plakias Matala Iraklio Knossos Agios Nikolaos PLAKIAS (p479) Offbeat southern resort with hidden beaches and hill walks in olive groves 26 E Ierapetra K A R P A T H I A N Sitia Kasos Halki DODECANESE Kattavia Saria Karpathos Pigadia KNOSSOS (p469) Crete's striking ancient Minoan palace and home of the mythical Minotaur of King Minos 28 E Lindos Rhodes M E D I T E R R A N E A N Kastellorizo (Megisti) 30 E

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