Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Greece. Evia & the Sporades p633. Athens & Around p60. Cyclades p331. Saronic Gulf Islands p311.

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1 Greece Northern Greece p244 Ionian Islands p661 Central Greece p198 Peloponnese p137 Evia & the Sporades p633 thens & round p60 Saronic Gulf Islands p311 Northeastern egean Islands p572 Cyclades p331 odecanese p495 Crete p438 Korina iller, Kate rmstrong, lexis verbuck, ichael Stamatios Clark, nna Kaminski, Vesna aric, Craig clachlan, Zora O Neill, Leonid agozin, ndrea Schulte-Peevers, Helena Smith, Greg Ward, ichard Waters

2 PLN YOU TIP ON THE O IGIN.G PHOTOGPHY/SHUTTESTOCK WF8/SHUTTESTOCK Welcome to Greece...4 Greece ap Greece s Top Need to Know First Time Greece What s New If You Like onth by onth Itineraries...28 Island Hopping Cruising Eat & rink Like a Local Outdoor ctivities Travel with Children egions at a Glance HY P321 EZEHES (P44) & OUZO (P43) THENS & OUN.. 60 thens thens Ports round thens PELOPONNESE Corinthia rgolis rgos ncient ycenae Nafplio Epidavros rkadia Stemnitsa imitsana Leonidio Lakonia Sparta ystras onemvasia The ani Lakonian ani essinian ani essinia Kalamata ncient essini Koroni ethoni Pylos Olympia Olympia Town ndritsena chaïa Patra CENTL GEECE elphi & Sterea Ellada elphi Galaxidi Nafpaktos essolongi Karpenisi Iti National Park eteora & Thessaly Larissa Volos Pelion Peninsula Trikala eteora Kalambaka Kastraki NOTHEN GEECE acedonia Thessaloniki Halkidiki Litohoro & Plaka Litohorou Veria Edessa Florina Kastoria Kavala Thrace Xanthi lexandroupoli Epiros Ioannina To Nisi Zagorohoria Konitsa rta Parga SONIC GULF ISLNS egina ngistri Poros Hydra Spetses CYCLES ndros Tinos Syros ykonos elos Paros

3 4 Welcome to Greece ncient sun-bleached ruins pierce blue skies as the egean laps at the endless coastline. nd Greek culture is alive with passionate music, inspired cuisine and thrill-seeking activities. Cultural Treasure Chest Standing in the shadow of the cropolis feels otherworldly. Greece is full of such moments. Step into the ring where Olympians first competed. Climb steps hewn out of stone to eteora s monasteries, perched atop towering rocks. Contemplate the oracle s insights from the grandeur of elphi, take in a starlit drama at an ancient outdoor theatre and be stunned by massive marble sculptures dredged up from the egean. But then you ll encounter bold modern art, the melancholic throb of rembetika (blues songs) and artisans creating new work from traditional techniques. Greece has endless cultural pursuits and a calendar bursting with festivals, holidays and exhibits. Local Flavours The secret to Greek cooking is often found in the chef s garden regional produce and cooking styles make travelling here a culinary adventure. Taste herbs and mountain greens you ve never heard of, mussels steamed in ouzo, bread baked with olives, and fish straight from the sea. Taste-test regional cheeses: crumbling feta, honeyed soft cheeses and sharp, hard rounds. Find Italian influences in pastas or Turkish spices in delicate sweets. traditionalcooking renaissance has chefs lifting timehonoured recipes to new heights. Socially Spirited Socialising is more than a pastime in Greece it s a way of life. Cafes overflow with teenagers gossiping or older locals in heated debate. estaurants are filled with long tables for big gatherings and friends amble arm in arm down the street. Squares are the focal point, where life unfolds collectively. Immerse yourself, whether it s a coffee, a shot of ouzo, a chorus on the bouzouki or a local celebration. Greeks are passionate and live life to the fullest, even at the most difficult times. The result is a country seemingly riddled with challenges, yet full of people loving life. Wildly Natural Whether you re a serious adrenalin junkie or dedicated beach bum, Greece will bewitch you. ays melt from one to the next under wide open skies and a sea speckled with islands that deliver the white-sand, palm-fringed beaches of your dreams. Wander along cobbled Byzantine footpaths, hike into volcanoes, watch for dolphins and sea turtles, and cycle through lush forests. eander through olive groves, idyllic villages and petrified forests. Thrill seekers will discover world-class kitesurfing, wreck diving, and rock-climbing locations with dizzying views. Or simply hop on a boat and set sail into the glittering blue beyond.

4 5 PWEL KZIECZK/SHUTTESTOCK Why I Love Greece By Korina iller, Writer I first visited Greece as an 18-year-old, sleeping on the decks of slow-moving ferries, living on olives and feta, and constantly salt-crusted from swimming in the deep-blue egean. I ve returned many times since to watch a starlit performance at a 3rd-century-BC theatre; to wander through mysterious inoan ruins; or to drink ouzo with locals who declare me family. I love Greece because magical moments like these aren t so hard to find. For more about our writers, see p784. bove: ykonos (p349)

5 Central Greece Includes elphi Nafpaktos essolongi Karpenisi Iti National Park Volos Pelion Peninsula eteora Kalambaka Kastraki Best Places to Eat Taverna Vakhos (p207) Taverna To Paramithi (p241) Taverna ngelika (p230) Taverna Niki (p227) Brighton Food & Wine (p221) Kritsa Hotel estaurant (p224) Best Places to Stay Lost Unicorn Hotel & estaurant (p230) Old Silk Store (p229) oupiani House (p243) lsos House (p240) Hotel lexakis (p218) Iliovolo Guesthouse (p232) Why Go? elphi ncient Greece s centre or navel of the earth is these days among Greece s most visited places for its archaeological site, ancient footpaths and vistas of the Corinthian Gulf. elphi is rivalled in popularity only by eteora, the breathtaking outcrops of rocky towers topped by teetering monasteries (and rock climbers). The central Greece (κεντρική Ελλάδα) region also holds many underrated surprises. lpine meadows and valleys cover the Evritania mountain range, making it perfect for breezy summer hikes and winter skiing. nd it doesn t get much better than the beautiful Pelion Peninsula, home to ason and the rgonauts, and criss-crossed with historic cobblestone paths linking lush mountain hamlets with coves and beaches that rival the best islands. nd speaking of good, better, best The region s goodnatured people serve up hospitality, superb experiences and great cuisine. There s no better place to navel-gaze. When to Go elphi C/ F Temp 40/104 30/86 20/68 10/50 0/32 F pr & ay Wild chamomile and red poppies mingle in alpine meadows. Sep Warmer seas, sunny weather and fewer crowds. S O ainfall inches/mm 0.79/20 N 0.39/15 0.2/5 Orthodox Easter Villages follow traditional customs, with parades, dancing and copious food. 0

6 c PELOPONNESE 66 # \ ]# Grevena t Olympus Litohoro Konitsa Kassandra t Vasilitsa (2917m) Peninsula (2249m) CEONI Kranea Leptokarya t Gamila heskatis Platamonas (2497m) eskati Elassona ]# Karyes t Ossa Stomio ]# etsovo Katara Pass #4 #Ü eteora (1978m) Thermaikos mbelonas Gulf Ioannina Kalambaka Sikourion ]# ^# Tyrnavos gia t Neraida ^# (2074m) Farkadona Larissa Trikala ]# Pyli Palamas THESSLY t Pliassidi (1651m) EPIOS ouzaki Zagora Karditsa Volos ]# Velestinion #3 ]# #5 Lake Farsala Nea nkhialos amouhari gria Plastira Pelion #1 #æ rta Neomonastiri ]# lmyros Peninsula #Ù Pagasitikos Gulf ilina t Orthys Preveza mbracian t Tymfristos (1726m) ]# Gulf Lake (2312m) akrakomi Kremasta Stylida Vonitsa Lamia Loutra Istiea ^# Edipsou Lefkada Town mfilohia Karpenisi#2 Loutra Ipatis#7 gios Georgios t Kaliakouda Iti National Katouna # #7 olos Lefkada (2098m) Park t Iti rkitsa Limni ytikas Kamena Gulf of eganisi STEE (2151m) gios Evia grinio Vourla Kalamos ]# ELL mfiklia Konstantinos Parnassos Lake National Kato Tithorea stakos Trihonida Park # t Parnassos alesina tokos mfissa (2457m) Kastro Katokhi Etoliko ncient elphi#6 rahova Nafpaktos Itea ]# Livadia Vathy ]# ndirio istomo Thiva Ithaki Galaxidi essolongi liartos (Thebes) ]# Patra io N Kefallonia Gulf of ^# Egio ]# Patra iakofto Gulf of Poros ]# t Panahaïko Corinth Erythres (1924m) lkyonides Xylokastro Gulf rahthos kheloös iver 0 50 km #e 0 25 miles Central Greece Highlights 1 Pelion Peninsula (p223) Wandering along the kalderimia (mule paths) to the sea. 2 Karpenisi (p215) Feasting on fresh trout from mountain streams. 3 Volos (p220) Trying a tsipouro (spirit similar to raki) or three with the locals Kalavryta 4 eteora (p237) Looking up, and up, at the monastery-topped rock pinnacles. 5 amouhari (p228) Sea-kayaking to small coves in the blue egean from the bay or losing yourself among the rare roses of nearby Serpentine Organic Garden. Kiato TTIC 6 ncient elphi (p201) editating over the last light of day at the Sanctuary of thena Pronea. 7 Iti National Park (p217) Hiking the trails or lazing in the hot sulphur springs in Loutra Ipatis. Central Greece elphi & Sterea Ellada ELPHI & STEE ELL Greek mythology and history mingle in the rugged landscape of Sterea Ellada. On the slopes of t Parnassos is the famous site of ncient elphi. The land stretches east to ttica, where legendary King Oedipus met his fate, and west to essolongi, where bard Lord Byron died of fever during the Greek War of Independence. The region acquired its name, meaning ainland Greece, in 1827, as part of the newly formed nation. elphi Δελφοί % / POP 2370 If the ncient Greeks hadn t chosen elphi (from delphis, womb) as their navel of the earth and built the Sanctuary of pollo here,

7 Crete Includes Iraklio Iraklio Wine Country ethymno oni rkadiou gia Galini Hania Kissamos (Kastelli) Loutro Paleohora Elafonisi gios Nikolaos Lasithi Plateau Best Places to Eat Thalassino geri (p472) Peskesi (p448) Taverna Panorama (p466) Hope (p487) Best Places to Stay Enagron Ecotourism Village (p464) Serenissima (p471) Villa Olga (p485) Eleonas Country Village (p455) Plakias Youth Hostel (p465) Why Go? Crete (Κρήτη) is the culmination of the Greek experience. Nature here is as prolific as Picasso in his prime, creating a dramatic quilt of big-shouldered mountains, stunning beaches and undulating hillsides blanketed in olive groves,vineyards and wildflowers. There are deep chiselled gorges,including one of Europe s longest, and crystal-clear lagoons and palm-tree-lined beaches that conjure up the Caribbean.Crete s natural beauty is equalled only by the richness of a history that spans millennia. The Palace of Knossos is but one of many vestiges of the mysterious ancient inoan civilisation. Venetian fortresses, Turkish mosques and Byzantine churches bring history alive all over Crete, but nowhere more so than in charismatic Hania and ethymno. Crete s hospitable and spirited people uphold their unique culture, cuisine and customs. Local life and traditions remain a dynamic part of the island s soul When to Go Crete (Iraklio) C/ F Temp 40/104 30/86 20/68 10/50 0/32 ul & ug High season. Queues at big sights, busy beaches. Hot days, balmy evenings, warm waters. F pr un & Sep Oct oderate temperatures, smaller crowds. Best time for hiking and outdoor activities. S O ainfall inches/mm N 8/200 6/150 4/100 2/50 Nov ar Low season. Sights and restaurants scale back hours; beach resorts close. ajor sights uncrowded. 0

8 History lthough inhabited since Neolithic times ( BC), Crete is most famous for being the cradle of Europe s first advanced civilisation, the inoan. Traces of this enigmatic society were only uncovered in the early 20th century, when British archaeologist Sir rthur Evans discovered the palace at Knossos and named the civilisation after its ruler, the mythical King inos. inoans migrated to Crete in the 3rd millennium BC. Their extraordinary artistic, architectural and cultural achievements culminated in the construction of huge palace complexes at Knossos, Phaestos, alia and Zakros, which were all levelled by an earthquake around 1700 BC. Undeterred, the inoans built bigger and better ones over the ruins, while settling more widely across Crete. round 1450 BC, the palaces were mysteriously destroyed again, possibly by a tsunami triggered by a volcanic eruption on Santorini (Thira). Knossos, the only palace saved, finally burned down around 1400 BC. rchaeological evidence shows that the inoans lingered on for a few centuries in small, isolated settlements before disappearing as mysteriously as they had come. They were followed by the ycenaeans and the orians (around 1100 BC). By the 5th century BC, Crete was divided into city-states but did not benefit from the cultural glories of mainland Greece; in fact, it was bypassed by Persian invaders and the acedonian conqueror lexander the Great. By 67 BC Crete had become the oman province of Cyrenaica, with Gortyna its capital. fter the oman Empire s division in 395, Crete fell under the jurisdiction of Greek-speaking Constantinople the emerging Byzantine Empire. Things went more or less fine until 824, when rabs appropriated the island. In 961, though, Byzantine general emperor Nikiforas Fokas (912 69) won Crete back following a nine-month siege of Iraklio (then called El Khandak by the rabs). Crete flourished under Byzantine rule, but with the infamous Fourth Crusade of 1204 the maritime power of Venice received Crete as part of its payment for supplying the Crusaders fleet. uch of Crete s most impressive surviving architecture dates from the Venetian period, which lasted until 1669 when Iraklio (then called Candia) became the last domino to fall after a 21-year Ottoman siege. Turkish rule brought new administrative organisation, Islamic culture and uslim settlers. Cretan resistance was strongest in the mountain strongholds but all revolts were put down brutally, and it was only with the Ottoman Empire s disintegration in the late 19th century that Europe s great powers expedited Crete s sovereign aspirations. Thus, in 1898, with ussian and French consent, Crete became a British protectorate. However, the banner under which future Greek Prime inister Eleftherios Venizelos and other Cretan rebels were fighting was Enosis i Thanatos (Unity or eath) unity with Greece, not mere independence from Turkey. Yet it would take the Greek army s successes in the Balkan Wars ( ) to turn Crete s de facto inclusion in the country into reality, with the 1913 Treaty of Bucharest. Crete suffered tremendously during WWII, due to being coveted by dolf Hitler for its strategic location. On 20 ay 1941 a huge flock of German parachutists quickly overwhelmed the Cretan defenders. The Battle of Crete, as it would become known, raged for 10 days between German and llied troops from Britain, ustralia, New Zealand and Greece. For two days the battle hung in the balance until the Germans captured the aleme irfield, near Hania. The llied forces fought a valiant rearguard action, enabling the British Navy to evacuate 18,000 of the 32,000 llied troops. The harsh German occupation lasted throughout WWII, with many mountain villages bombed or burnt down and their occupants executed en masse. 88Getting There & way I ost travellers arrive in Crete by air, often with a change in thens. Travellers from North merica need to connect via a European gateway city such as Paris, msterdam or Frankfurt and sometimes again in thens. To reach Crete by air from other Greek islands also requires a change in thens, except for some flights operated by Crete-based airline Sky Express (p760). Iraklio s Nikos Kazantzakis International irport (p449) is Crete s busiest airport, although Hania (p473) is convenient for travellers heading to western Crete. Sitia (p490) only receives a handful of domestic and summertime international charter flights. Between ay and October, European low-cost carriers and charter airlines like easyet (to Iraklio) and yanair (to Hania) operate direct flights to Crete, mostly from the UK, Poland, Sweden and Italy. yanair also offers domestic flights to Hania from thens and Thessaloniki. 439 Crete Getting There & way

9 Cyclades Includes Syros ykonos Paros Naxos Small Cyclades morgos Ios Santorini (Thira) Folegandros ilos Sifnos Serifos Best Places to Eat oukato (p376) -Eating (p355) Captain imos (p389) Cayenne (p428) Theoni s Kitchen (p403) O Ntinos (p343) Why Go? On a quest to find the Greek islands of your dreams? Start, here, in the Cyclades (Κυκλάδες). ugged, sun-drenched outcrops of rock, anchored in azure seas and liberally peppered with snow-white villages and blue-domed churches, this is Greece straight from central casting, with stellar archaeological sites and dozens of postcard-worthy beaches. Throw in a blossoming food scene, some renowned party destinations and a good dose of sophistication, and you really do have the best of Greece s ample charms. The biggest surprise may be the variety found within this island group. Chase hedonism on ykonos or Ios, history on elos, hiking trails on ndros or morgos. Want a romantic break? Try Santorini. To escape reality? Pick onousa or nafi. You can ferry-hop to your heart s content, enjoy long, lazy lunches at waterside tavernas, or simply lay claim to a sunbed by a spectacular beach. You re living the dream. When to Go ykonos Town C/ F Temp 40/104 30/86 ainfall inches/mm 0.79/ /15 Best Places to Stay ed Tractor Farm (p435) Pension Sofi (p375) Windmill of Karamitsos (p422) Stelios Place (p409) Francesco s (p394) 20/68 10/50 0/32 F pr un Catch the early-season sun without overheating, and boats without overcrowding. ul & ug Pros: sun, sea and sand, plus balmy nights and lively company. Cons: peak crowds and prices. S O N 0.2/5 Sep & Oct Quieter beaches, open spaces, the sweet scent of herbs, and great walks on island hills. 0

10 332 6gia t Parnitha (1413m) arina Nea Styra arathon Styra Petalia Niborio Nea akri Gulf TTIC afina armari #_ THENS Piraeus # # Cyclades Highlights Saronic Gulf \ Kallianos Evia Karystos Koropi Porto afti Glyfada Keratea navissos Lavrio Korissia Cape Ioulida Sounion Kea Giaros Kythnos Kythnos Gavrio ndros ndros Syros Ermoupoli # Posidonia Panormos Tinos #8 Tinos Town egean Sea Chios Hora # #4 ykonos #2 ncient elos elos Cape astihos Ikaria Karkinagrion Ikarian Sea Pyrgi Samos (100km) yrtoön Sea Serifos Livadi #5 Naxos onousa Parikia Hora # ntiparos Paros Filotion stypalea (60km); Kamares pollonia # hodes (230km) Koufonisia Sifnos Ormos Egialis #7 morgos Schinousa Kimolos Iraklia #9 Katapola Pollonia Hora Small Cyclades Hora/Kastro damas Ios # Kos (120km) ilos #6 Sikinos Hora lopronoia nydros Folegrandos #3 stypalea (30km) Oia Thirasia #1 Santorini (Thira) Fira # #10 nafi gios Nikolaos Sea of Crete #e 0 50 km 0 25 miles Iraklio (Crete) (50km) Cyclades Highlights 1 Santorini (Thira) (p396) Being mesmerised by the dramatic volcanic cliffs. 2 ncient elos (p359) Immersing yourself in history on this sacred island. 3 Folegandros (p413) Wandering the streets of Hora. 4 ykonos (p349) Partying until dawn. 5 Naxos (p370) Exploring quaint villages. 6 ilos (p417) Sunning yourself on stone cliffs or lazing in sandy coves. 7 morgos (p387) arvelling at the dazzling cliffside monastery. 8 Tinos (p338) Exploring marble villages and gorgeous dovecote valleys. 9 Small Cyclades (p381) Slipping away to serenity on these remote-feeling islands. a nafi (p410) Enjoying a slow-paced traditional lifestyle on this far-flung isle.

11 odecanese Includes hodes Halki Karpathos Kasos Symi Tilos Nisyros Kos stypalea Kalymnos Leros Patmos rki & arathi Best Places to Eat arco Polo Cafe (p505) Taverna ylos (p556) To Ellenikon (p517) Tholos (p527) Pote Tin Kyriaki (p541) Why Go? Ever pined for the old Greece, where timeless islands beckon modern-day adventurers just as they did Odysseus and lexander? Enter the far-flung odecanese (Δωδεκάνησα; do-deka-ni-sa) archipelago, curving through the southeastern egean parallel to the ever-visible shoreline of Turkey. The footprints of everyone from Greeks and omans to crusading medieval knights, and Byzantine and Ottoman potentates to 20th-century Italian bureaucrats, are found here. Beyond better-known hodes and Kos, enigmatic islands beg to be explored. Hikers and naturalists flock to Tilos, while climbers scale the limestone cliffs in Kalymnos. esthetes adore the neoclassical mansions of Symi, Halki and Kastellorizo, divers explore underwater caves and ancient wrecks, and kitesurfers blow in to Karpathos for its legendary winds. rchaeologists and history buffs let their imaginations loose on a bevy of ancient sites, while sybarites can worship Helios on myriad beaches, far from the package crowds. When to Go hodes C/ F Temp 40/104 30/86 ainfall inches/mm 8/200 6/150 Best Places to Stay arco Polo ansion (p502) Harry s Paradise (p555) rchontariki (p563) Old arkets (p527) In Camera rt Boutique Hotel (p503) 20/68 10/50 0/32 F pr & ay Prices are low, few tourists are around and the sea is warming up. ul & ug Peak season for accommodation and visitors book ahead. S O N 4/100 2/50 Sep & Oct Great time to come: low prices, warm seas and perfect hiking weather. 0

12 496 Ikaria (20km) Samos (25km) Samos (25km) rki gios Georgios Ikarian Sea rki gathonisi Patmos idim Siros #7 arathi (100km) Skala \ Lipsi Farmakonisi Patmos Lipsi Village andalya Gulf Naxos gia arina (70km) Leros \ Lakki Yalikavak Naxos (80km) Santorini (90km) stypalea odecanese Highlights esa Vathy nalipsi Hora (stipalea) morgos (60km); Piraeus (330km) Gulluk ilas TUKEY Bodrum Telendos #3 Kalymnos Pserimos Oren Turgutreis Pserimos Pothia Kerme Gulf armaris Kos Town astihari Zia Kos ndimachia Kardamena Kefalos atça Palamut Bükü Symi andraki #6 Fethiye (Turkey) #5 Symi (80km) Nisyros ^# Tilos hodes Old Town #1 #4 Kastellorizo Livadia (egisti; 130km) limia Skala Kamirou Halki hodes Karpathian Sea Halki Laerma onolithos Lindos Yatagan #e 0 50 km 0 25 miles Iraklio (Crete; 90km) Sitis (Crete; 15km) Fry Kasos Saria iafani Olymbos #2 Karpathos Karpathos rgos Kattavia Cape Prasonisi Kastellorizo (egisti) TUKEY Katellorizo #8 (egisti) 0 20 km 0 10 miles Kaş Kastellorizo Village #Ù odecanese Highlights 1 hodes Old Town (p498) Wandering beneath Byzantine arches and along ancient cobbled alleyways. 2 Olymbos (p519) Following the winding road up to this timeless village. 3 Kalymnos (p549) Testing your mettle diving for wrecks or climbing limestone cliffs. 4 Tilos (p529) Hiking or birdwatching on this postcardperfect island. 5 Nisyros (p533) Entering its fabled volcano, home to an imprisoned Titan. 6 Symi (p524) Feeling your pulse quicken as your boat pulls into the gorgeous Italianate harbour. 7 Patmos (p560) aking the pilgrimage to where St ohn experienced his evelations. 8 Kastellorizo (egisti) (p522) Gasping in awe at the largest and most dramatic of blue caves in the editerranean.

13 Evia & the Sporades Includes Evia Central Evia Northern Evia Southern Evia The Sporades Skiathos Skopelos lonnisos Skyros Best Places to Eat ina s mfilirion estaurant (p638) Taverna-Ouzerie Kabourelia (p643) To Perivoli estaurant (p648) Hayiati (p654) Stefanos Taverna (p660) Why Go? Evia (Εύβοια) and the four Sporades islands (Οι Σποράδες) remain largely off the beaten island path. lthough Evia is Greece s second-largest island, it seems hidden in plain view, separated from the mainland by the narrow Evripos Channel at Halkida. way from this workaday hub, the pace slows as the landscape stretches out, dotted by hilltop monasteries, small farms, vineyards, hidden bays and curious goats. ost visitors will use Evia as a jumping-off point for the gorgeous Sporades ( scattered ones ). They seem like extensions of the forested Pelion Peninsula and, in fact, they were joined in prehistoric times. Skiathos, easily the most developed, claims the sandiest beaches in the egean. Low-key Skopelos kicks back with a postcard-worthy harbour and forest meadows, while remote lonnisos anchors a national marine park. Southerly Skyros is known for culinary and artistic traditions dating from Byzantine times, when these islands were home to rogues and pirates. When to Go Skiathos Town C/ F Temp 40/104 ainfall inches/mm 0.79/20 Best Places to Stay Hotel Nefeli (p657) trium Hotel (p645) Pension Sotos (p648) Liadromia Hotel (p653) Perigiali Hotel & Studios (p659) 30/86 20/68 10/50 0/32 F Feb & ar Carnival season keeps things warm with plenty of merrymaking. pr & ay Spring is in the air and Easter festivities linger long into the night. S O N 0.39/15 0.2/5 un & Sep Perfect temperatures and clear skies ideal hiking and swimming conditions. 0

14 634 Thessaloniki 0 50 km (135km) #e 0 25 miles t Pliassidi (1651m) Evia & the Sporades & the Sporades Highlights THESSLY Volos PELOPONNESE t Pelion (1455m) # 66 Gioura Kyra Piperi Panagia Skiathos lonnisos Pagasitikos Strait Loutraki #4 Sporades Gulf Pelion Peninsula Skiathos (Glossa Palio Trikeri Town Port) Kalamakia Peristera \ \ (Nisos) egean Platanias #8 Patitiri Sea Skiathos io delphi #5 #2 Cape Skopelos Town Skopelos Skantzoura rtemisio rtemisio Kanatadika #Ù Paralia Ellinikon giokambos Ù# Pefki Ù# Vasilika Bay Glyfa Istiea Orei Kotsikia Skyros Skyros gios Edipsos ovies gia ngeli #1 #6 Town Georgios Camping nna# \ #Ù #7 Skyropoula \ Linaria S# Strofylia Loutra Edipsou oviai antoudi Cape rkitsa Limni Pili gios Sarakinko Prokopi Hiliadou Gulf of Evia Beach Konstantinos Limnionas #Ù t irfys (1743m) Paralia \ Hiliadou Kymi Paralia Kymis Politika Loutsa STEE ELL Steni Platana Psahna Kambia Nea rtaki Ohthonia Theologos vlonari Paralímni Halkida# ] Neohori \ Líni Vasiliko Kalamos Lepoura Livadia Eretria liveri Ù# Lake Ilíki \ Lefkandi S# Ù# Bay gia postoli marynthos Krieza ilos Camping Gulf of Lake histos \ Thiva Evia Skala Porto Zarakes (Thebes) Oropou Boufalo rchamboli Nea Beach gios gia Styra Cape t Parnitha imitrios arina Ù# Kafireas (1413m) lkyonides Gulf Niborio Styra TTIC Nea Lenosei Kallianos #æ akri imosari Gorge #3 Ù# armari yli ntia Petalia Karystos Potami Loutraki egara afina Gulf Ù# #_ Ù# Platanistos THENS Petali Gulf of Salamina Karystos t Ohi Corinth Piraeus egara Bay (1398m) Kechries Bay iaporioi Islands Ypsili Saronic Gulf Evia & the Sporades Highlights 1 anos Faltaïts Folk useum (p657) elving into the artistic traditions and unique architecture of Skyros. 2 Bouzouki music (p648) Hearing live music at Ouzerie natoli, above the kastro overlooking Skopelos Town. 3 imosari Gorge (p641) Hiking this lush spot in south Evia, then cooling off in the sea near trail s end. 4 lonnisos (p651) Watching for dolphins while sailing around Greece s only national marine park. 5 Skopelos (p645) Hiking the inland meadows among poppies and butterflies. 6 Skyros (p655) Nuzzling Psathoura (Summer Only) (Summer Only) up with one of the gentle and rare Skyrian horses. 7 Loutra Edipsou (p638) Swimming year-round in this thermal-fed bay on Evia. 8 oni Evangelistrias (p645) Sampling the monks wine on Skiathos, where Greek independence was first declared in 1807.

15 770 Behind the Scenes SEN US YOU FEEBCK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. lthough we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OU EES any thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: lex asper, ndrew Trotter, Chris ocker, Craig Wood, aniel Kolodrubetz, aria Fireman, Eric Poscher, Felix Widmer, George and Linda oss, Indivar Kamtekar, avier López, Louise Eckhardt, arian Smith, ichael Williamson, Patrick Barfield, obert Femenella, Sabine Gerull, Sain lizada, Sonja Carter, Steven Tagle WITE THNKS Korina iller warm efharisto to all of the people in Greece who shared their stories, knowledge and enthusiasm for their country. Thank you to Brana at LP for bringing me on board and to my coauthors for their insights. Thank you to my fabulous daughters, onique and Simone, for letting me work and also encouraging me to take breaks. Thanks to Kirk for being my rock and to Bing, the loyal coonhound, for keeping me company while I burned the midnight oil. Kate rmstrong Efharisto poli to Brana, editor extraordinaire. nd of course, my information-sharing Greek friends whose genuine love of both country and visitors is so humbling: the entire Zotos family in Nafplio; postolos in ttica; ina in the ani; Nena and Koula in Stemnitsa; ggela and Yiannis in Kardamyli. Finally, a huge thanks to my very own Christos who shared my love for everything from horta to the Taygetos ountains. nd who finally heard me say ta ellinika mu telionu ado in person. lexis verbuck Boundless gratitude to lexandra Stamopoulou for her INSPITION. She travels with me everywhere. yan is a peachy companion, on the road and off. Boundless thanks to nthy, Costas and atthew who first introduced me to Greece, and then to Hydra, the other love of my life. Efharisto poli to Oren who made researching Poros a blast, and to achel, enny and Timothy for their enthusiastic companionship. argarita, Kostas, Zisis and Okeanida also make Greece home for me. ichael Stamatios Clark hearty eυχαριστω to the generous, goodnatured and persevering Greeks who shared their stories and tables with me. mong many friends and friendly strangers, special gratitude to Lena Spiliotopoulou (mfissa), Nikos Petrochilos (archaeologist, elphi), enny Panourgia (Nafpaktos), ill Sleeman (ouressi), ulia and Sofia (Loutra Ipatis), Yiannis Karkantas (Kalambaka), ngelina Srebric (eteora) and nastasia Koutzouradi (Volos). huge thanks for Brana Vladisavljevic s unflappable help and common sense throughout. nd to my anet, elina and lexandros, couldn t do it without you!

16 nna Kaminski big thank you to Brana, for entrusting me with half of the Cyclades, and to everyone who helped me en route. In particular: Edd and eg for research input in ykonos and elos; ristoteles in Kea, Konstantinos in Syros for aiding a stranded travel writer; lexander and Eleni in Kythnos; Spiros in ndros; Giorgios in ilos; Sofia and imitris in Tinos; and the good people in ilos who rented me a scooter that coped with sand, gravel and cobblestones. Vesna aric I would like to thank Tania, Stamathios and aria in Thessaloniki, for their excellent gastronomic guidance, and to Nana for setting me up with great people. Big thanks to amir Ugljen. Warmest thanks to my editor, Brana Vladisavljevic. Craig clachlan hearty efharisto to everyone who helped out during my research trip, but especially to my exceptionally beautiful wife, Yuriko, who kept me on track, focused and constantly smiling. The Greek islands are a joy to island-hop through, and a big part of that joy comes from meeting and talking to happy Greeks! thanks to you all. Zora O Neill any thanks to Georgia Lale, nnia Ciezadlo, Ioanna Theodorou, aria Papadimitriou, od Ben Zeev, Polycarpe Nana Toukam, ora Papagiannou and everyone else who shared their knowledge of and affection for wonderful thens. t Lonely Planet, thanks to editor Brana Vladisavljevic for being calm and collected, and to lexis verbuck for her work in previous years. nd special thanks to Peter oskos, who got me to thens in the first place. Leonid agozin Huge thanks of all the wonderfully friendly Greek people domatia and taverna owners, travel agents, ferry attendants, gas station employees, taxi drivers for giving invaluable tips and helping out in all sorts of situations. You ve once again reinforced my long-standing opinion that Greece is possibly the best place to travel on Earth. I would also like to thank my wife, aria akeeva, for accompanying me on this journey, driving thousands of miles and helping with the research. ndrea Schulte-Peevers Big heartfelt thank yous to all the wonderful people I met during my travels around Crete who so generously and patiently shared their knowledge, insights, wisdom and passion, and made me once again feel connected with the island. Helena Smith Thank you to Chara Stavropoulou and anolis vgerinos on Skyros for sharing their local knowledge, to lexandra on Skopelos and to my on lonnisos. nd to everyone who was so generous and welcoming throughout Evia and the Sporades. Greg Ward Thanks to the many wonderful people who helped me on my way around the Ionian Islands; without Greek hospitality I d have learned a whole lot less and had a lot less fun into the bargain. nd thanks as ever, with all my heart, to my dear wife Sam. ichard Waters Special thanks to Fokas, aria Cristofi, Skevos Travel, arianna, George at GNTO, and all the Greek friends who helped me along the way with my research. CKNOWLEGEENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel C, Finlayson BL & cahon T (2007) Updated World ap of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Illustrations pp70-1, pp452-3 by avier artinez Zarracina; pp202-3 by ichael Weldon. Cover photograph: Naoussa Harbour, Paros; aurizio ellini/4corners 771 BEHIN THE SCENES THIS BOOK This 13th edition of Lonely Planet s Greece guidebook was researched and written by Korina iller, Kate rmstrong, lexis verbuck, ichael Stamatios Clark, nna Kaminski, Vesna aric, Craig clachlan, Zora O Neill, Leonid agozin, ndrea Schulte-Peevers, Helena Smith, Greg Ward and ichard Waters. This guidebook was produced by the following: estination Editor Brana Vladisavljevic Product Editor Vicky Smith Senior Cartographer nthony Phelan Book esigner Clara onitto ssisting Editors Carolyn Bain, udith Bamber, Carolyn Boicos, Kate Chapman, ndrea obbin, Bruce Evans, Shona Gray, Carly Hall, Sandie Kestell, Kellie Langdon, Lou cgregor, nne ulvaney, Kristin Odijk, Charlotte Orr, Susan Paterson, onique Perrin, Christopher Pitts, Sam Wheeler ssisting Cartographers Corey Hutchison, Hunor Csutoros, achel Imeson, ames Leversha Cover esearcher Naomi Parker Thanks to onan bayawickrema, Hannah Cartmel, Elizabeth ones, Kate Kiely, nne ason, arissa Tejada, Gina Tsarouhas, manda Williamson

17 Ionian Islands Includes Corfu (Kerkyra) Paxi ntipaxi Lefkada eganisi Kefallonia Ithaki Zakynthos Kythira Best Places to Eat White House (p674) Carnayo (p677) Nissi (p682) Prosilio (p699) O Platanos (p706) Best Places to Stay Perantzada 1811 (p694) Petani Bay Hotel (p690) El Sol Hotel (p704) Levant Hotel (p675) Torri E erli (p678) Why Go? With their cooler climate, abundant olive and cypress trees, and forested mountains, the Ionians (Τα Ιόνια Νησιά) are a lighter, greener variation on the Greek template. Venetian, French and British occupiers have all helped to shape the islands architecture, culture and (excellent) cuisine, and contributed to the unique feel of Ionian life. Though the islands lie linked in a chain along the west coast of mainland Greece, each has its own distinct landscape and history. Corfu Town holds Parisian-style arcades, Venetian alleyways and Italian-inspired delicacies. Lefkada boasts some of Greece s finest turquoise-lapped beaches, while Kefallonia is adorned with soaring mountains and vineyards. Paxi s Italianate harbour villages are impossibly pretty, and soulful Ithaki preserves wild terrain and a sense of myth. Zakynthos has sea caves and waters teeming with turtles, and Kythira offers off-the-beaten-track walks. The Ionians hold something new for adventure seekers, food lovers, culture vultures and beach bums alike. When to Go Corfu Town C/ F Temp 40/104 30/86 20/68 10/50 0/32 F ay Life is still quiet while the wildflowers are in bloom everywhere. ul Escape the heat elsewhere in Greece by heading to the country s coolest islands. S O ainfall inches/mm 0.79/20 N Sep Leaves change colour, and the robola grapes are harvested in Kefallonia. 0.39/15 0.2/5 0

18 662 Ionian Islands Highlights 1 Corfu Town (p665) Exploring world-class museums, fortresses and restaurants, as well as Venetian, French and British architecture. 2 Paxi (p676) Hopping from one gorgeous harbour to another on this tiny pastoral island. 3 Fiskardo (p691) Savouring the flavours in the waterfront restaurants of Kefallonia s bestpreserved historic village. 4 Kefallonia (p685) iving and kayaking in the myriad magnificent bays that pepper Kefallonia s coastline. 5 Beaches anking your favourite strips of sand, from the busiest on Corfu (p674) and Zakynthos (p699) to the quieter joys of Paxi (p676) and Lefkada s west coast (p683). 6 Ithaki (p693) Walking in the footsteps of epic poet Homer. 7 Kythira (p701) iscovering tiny villages, waterfalls and remote coves. Ionian Islands LBNI t Smolikas Italy Himare Gjirokaster (2637m) (125km) Konitsa 6 6 iapoondia Islands t Gamila Othoni Erikousa Kakavia (2497m) Saranda Sidhari haravi Parakalamos athraki gios Stefanos Karyes Zitsa gios Georgios asia Paleokastritsa Vrosina # ^# Ermones Sagiada Ioannina #1 Corfu # Pelekas Town Filiates gios Gordios #5 Corfu gios oraïtika Igoumenitsa EPIOS atthaios Lefkimmi Paramythia gios Georgios Kavos Perdika Gythio Ionian Sea Elafonisi Neapoli (45km) Cape Spathi #õ Kalamata Platia mmos (120km) gia Pelagia Potamos ylopotamos # iakofti #7 Kythira vlemonas Livadi Kalamos Hora (Kythira) Kapsali Kythira Strait 0 20 km 0 10 miles South Kerkyra Straits Permet \ Parga Lakka esopotamo Paxi #2 #5 mmoudia Kanalaki Gaïos ntipaxi Kythira & ntikythira Cape aleas Crete (40km) ntikythira Potamos Galaniana rta Koronisia Preveza mbracian Gulf # Vonitsa onastirakion Lefkada Town Lefkada Paleros Nydri #5 ytikas Vasiliki eganisi Kalamos Kastos \ stakos Frikes Fiskardo tokos #3 #6 Ithaki ssos Vathy yrtos BeachÙ# Piso etos gia Evfymia Oxia Sami Lixouri #4 Kefallonia Patras rgostoli (55km) # Pesada Poros gios Nikolaos Shipwreck Ù# Volimes Beach Zakynthos #5 Zakynthos Town # #e Keri Bay of Laganas Kythira (see inset; 260km); ntikythira (see inset; 290km) Filippiada Kyllini Cape Tripiti Zakynthos Strait 0 40 km 0 20 miles

19 Northeastern egean Islands Includes Ikaria Fourni Islands Samos Chios Inousses Lesvos (ytilini) Limnos Samothraki Loutra Thasos Best Places to Eat arymary (p584) Thea s estaurant & ooms (p583) Taverna (p594) Kechribari Ouzerie (p598) Spitalia (p605) Best Places to Stay ooms ionysos (p581) rchipelagos Hotel (p586) Hotel Kyma (p614) Ino Village Hotel & estaurant (p589) for rt (p629) Why Go? The northeastern egean Islands (τα νησιά του Βορειοανατολικού Αιγαίου) are notable for their proximity to the Turkish mainland. Influences from sia inor abound in old-fashioned island cuisines, traditional village culture, dramatic celebrations and even the language. Eccentric Ikaria is marked by jagged landscapes, pristine beaches and a famously long-lived, left-leaning population. Nearby Chios provides fertile ground for the planet s only gum-producing mastic trees. Other islands range from rambling Lesvos, producer of half the world s ouzo, to midsized islands such as semitropical Samos and workaday Limnos, and bright specks in the sea such as Inousses and Psara. Samothraki is home to the ancient Sanctuary of the Great Gods, while well-watered Thasos seems an extension of the mainland. Lesvos, Chios and Samos offer easy connections to Turkey s coastal resorts and historic Hellenic sites. When to Go Vathy (Samos) C/ F Temp 40/104 30/86 20/68 10/50 0/32 pr & ay Wild red poppies adorn the backroads and Greek Easter livens up every village. F ul & ug Beach bars and village councils (in Ikaria s case) throw wild parties for holidaying revellers. S O ainfall inches/mm N 0.79/ /15 0.2/5 Oct & Nov Summer crowds evaporate, and hearty soups return to the tavernas. 0

20 Kavala Keşan THCE \ Keramoti 6 # lexandroupoli f Thasos Strait TUKEY Gulf of Thasos Kavala Skala (Limenas) Thracian Sea Prinou Thaos Sanctuary of Saros #7 Strymonic the Great Gods Gulf #\ Gulf Kamariotissa Hora Samothraki Gallipoli thos Peninsula Gökçeada (Imvros) #e Biga Eceabat Çanakkale Gönen km 0 25 miles Sea of armara The ardanelles Şarköy Thessaloniki (170km) Limnos yrina oudros Bozcaada (Tenedos) Troy (Truva) Thessaloniki (180km) Piperi Linaria Skyros Skyros Town Syros gios Efstratios Kallianos Evia Cape Kafireas armari Karystos Lavrio (10km) Gavrio ndros ndros Piraeus (70km) Korissia Tinos Kea Piraeus (70km) Tinos Town egean Sea olyvos #5 yvalık Lesvos Kalloni #8 Sigri ytilini Town Bergama Skala Eresou yiasos #4 Polikhnitos ikili Vatera Plomari Psara Inousses Town Psara \ Inousses Limnos Chios Chios Town# ] Çeşme esta #6 lacati Pyrgi Emboreios Cape astihos ykonos (5km) ykonos Edremit Gulf liağa Îzmir Gulf Ula ^# İzmir TUKEY Northeastern egean Islands egean Islands Highlights anisa Turgutlu Kušadasî Gulf Kuşadası Karlovasi Potami Beach Vathy #3 Samos (Samos) gios Pythagorio Evdilos Kirykos Kalymnos Ikaria #2 (65km) #1 Kos (65km) hodes (240km) Fourni Islands Northeastern egean Islands Highlights 1 Hristos ahes (p582) Getting post-midnight coffee and spoon sweets in the nocturnal capital of Ikaria. 2 Psarotaverna O iltos (p587) Enjoying sunset and the egean s best lobster spaghetti dish. 3 Potami Beach (p593) Finding a secret taverna above the wooded waterfalls after lazing on a marble gravel beach. 4 Teriade useum (p607) iscovering a treasure trove of top-notch art in ytilini Town. 5 Blue Fox (p612) Watching yachts sailing through a turquoise bay while sipping cezve (Turkish) coffee in charming olyvos. Patmos (30km) 6 astiha House (p602) Lodging in castle-like apartments in Pyrgi. 7 Sanctuary of the Great Gods (p626) Contemplating the cult of ancient gods who preceded the Olympians. 8 ineral Baths of Eftalou (p611) aydreaming in an ancient thermal pool on Lesvos.

21 Northern Greece Includes Thessaloniki Halkidiki Veria Kastoria Kavala Xanthi lexandroupoli Orestiada Ioannina To Nisi Zagorohoria Parga Best Places to Eat ourgá (p258) Extravaganza (p258) I Nea Follia (p258) Sempriko (p259) Taverna Sopotseli (p303) Palaia Polis (p286) Why Go? iversity should be northern Greece s second name the region stretches across more cultures and terrains than any other in the country. ighty civilisations, including acedonians, Thracians, omans, Byzantines, Slavs and Turks, have left traces here. this is nowhere more apparent than in Greece s second city, Thessaloniki a magnetic place that breathes history and character, and has the best food in the country. Border influences from lbania, the Former Yugoslav epublic of acedonia, Bulgaria and Turkey add to the region s distinctive flair. Northern Greece boasts beautiful beaches, too especially in popular Halkidiki and around Parga, along the golden Ionian coast. The plains and woodlands of Thrace offer rich birdlife. uins at ncient ion and the archaeological site at Vergina will leave you breathless, and if they don t, Epiros, to the west, will, with its perfect mountain life, mysterious villages and one of Europe s biggest canyons. When to Go Thessaloniki C/ F Temp 40/104 30/86 ainfall inches/mm 8/200 6/150 20/68 4/100 Best Places to Stay Trilogy House (p256) Primoula (p303) Kokkino Spiti (p275) Caravan (p257) Boutique Hotel 1905 (p286) 10/50 0/32 F ay ug Sizzle on beaches and swim in perfect waters in Parga and Halkidiki. Sep Nov Bask in lower coastal prices then hit Thessaloniki s restaurants and film festivals. S O N ec pr Snuggle into a ski lodge near Florina or explore the villages of Zagorohoria. 2/50 0

22 245 BULGI Edirne Gotse Kyprinos CEONI elchev Kardzhali \ # urres (FYO) ^ # # _ TIN Petrich Orestiada ^ # \ # Prilep Lake t Falakro idymotiho oiran t Kerkini (2232m) \ # THCE hodopi Ohrid ^ # Gevgelija (2031m) Sidirokastro rama ountains Soufli ^ # t Voras Xanthi Elbasan Lake Bitola Serres ^ # (Kaïmaktsalan) listrati #7 Komotini #5 Ohrid Paleokastro Kilkis Prespa (2524m) Hrysoupoli adia Forest eserve TUKEY Lakes ridea Fanari Nigrita Kavala Feres Lake Edessa Florina CEONI Gulf of Keramoti Keşan Petrón Lake Giannitsa Kavala Vegorítis Thasos lexandroupoli Korçe myntaio Thessaloniki lexandria Stavros Thasos (Limenas) Evros LBNI ^ # Panorama Strymonic Thracian Sea elta Kastoria #1 # # ^ Vlora \ # Veria ] iyinion Halkidiki Gulf Sea of #2 Stratonion Kamariotissa t Grammos Ptolemaïda Peninsula armara Epanomi Ierissos (2520m) Kozani Gulf of Samothraki Gallipoli Katerini Ouranoupoli Siatista Thessaloniki Karyes t Smolikas Servia CEONI Nea oudania Vourvourou Gökçeada \ Gulf of t thos Gulf of (2637m) gion Oros Çanakkale Grevena t Olympus (2033m) # # # ] Kassandra \ \ Konitsa #8 Gökçeada (2917m) Sarti thos (Imvros) Kassandria Neos Peninsula Vikos Gorge #3 Zagorohoria Platamonas Saranda Thermaikos Pefkohori armaras Limnos TUKEY #6 Elassona Gulf Sithonian Kassandra yrina Bozcaada etsovo Karyes Kalambaka t Ossa Peninsula Peninsula Corfu Town # (1978m) Ioannina #4 ^ t Neraida THESSLY ^ # egean Sea NOTHESTEN Corfu EPIOS (2074m) Trikala EGEN ISLNS Larissa Igoumenitsa Paramythia Farkadona SPOES gios Velestinion Volos Gioura Karditsa # Skiathos \ Piperi Efstratios Parga #9 Pelion Town yvalık IONIN Sofades Kyra Panagia ISLNS Paxi Farsala Peninsula Pagasitikos lonnisos Lesvos Peristera ntipaxi rta STEE Gulf Skiathos Patitiri km ytilini Ionian Sea ELL Skopelos Skopelos #e Preveza 0 50 miles Town ^ # rda Strumica Vardar rin 66 # 6 6 # aritsa Northern Greece Highlights Northern Greece Greece Highlights 1 Thessaloniki (p246) Experiencing the city s cuisine, history and nightlife. 2 Halkidiki Peninsula (p265) Swimming in clear waters and mountain biking verdant interiors. 3 Vikos Gorge (p301) Feeling your jaw drop in one of Europe s grandest canyons. 4 Ioannina (p295) Strolling around the relaxed old quarter and taking a ferry ride to tranquil To Nisi (The Island). 5 adia Forest eserve (p291) Pointing your binoculars at birds of prey. 6 Zagorohoria (p300) Village-hopping between ancient settlements in a breathtaking mountain setting. 7 Xanthi (p284) oaming Old Xanthi s winding streets. 8 t Olympus (p273) eaching Greece s highest peak. 9 Parga (p308) elaxing and swimming in this pictureperfect town.

23 Peloponnese Includes Corinthia ncient ycenae Nafplio Epidavros Stemnitsa Sparta ystras onemvasia The ani essinia Olympia Kalamata ndritsena Patra Why Go? The Peloponnese (Πελοπόννησος) is the stuff of legends. Literally. It is here that Hercules fought the Nemean lion and gods walked the earth, meddling in mortal affairs; it s from here that Paris of Troy eloped with Helen and the rgonauts set sail in search of the Golden Fleece. Celestial and mythological charms aside, this region bears tangible traces of the many civilisations that once called it home, witnessed in its classical temples, ycenaean palaces, Byzantine cities, and Ottoman, Frankish and Venetian fortresses. The very topography that kept invaders at bay for centuries lofty, snowcapped mountains, vast gorges, sandy beaches and azure waters now draws visitors of a very different kind. Filoxenia (hospitality) is as strong here as anywhere in the country; the food is among Greece s best; and the region s vineyards are contributing to Greece s wine renaissance. Locals claim to have the best of everything to give. nd that s no myth. Best Places to Eat Elies (p175) Kavalaris Corner ezedopoleio (p151) Chromata (p164) Chrisovoulo (p167) Best Places to Stay ntares (p172) azaráki Guesthouse (p164) pelleiko (p155) Pension arianna (p150) When to Go Nafplio C/ F Temp 40/104 30/86 20/68 10/50 0/32 Easter The pomp and ceremony of religious festivities during Orthodox Easter week are unforgettable. F pr un Perfect hiking and beach weather, without the summer crowds. S O ainfall inches/mm 0.79/20 N Sep Take part in the gruelling Spartathlon if you think you re tough enough. 0.39/15 0.2/5 0

24 138 Peloponnese Highlights 1 onemvasia (p165) Soaking up the past and present of an ancient walled city. 2 ncient Olympia (p185) arvelling at this sanctuary, the birthplace of the Olympic Games. 3 ani (p168) Hiking one of Greece s most remote and rugged regions and spending a night in a traditional aniot tower house. 4 enalon Trail (p156) Hiking this stunning trail through the Lousios Gorge and charming mountain villages Stemnitsa and imitsana. 5 ystras (p161) eandering through the magical World Heritage listed ruins of the former Byzantine capital. 6 ncient ycenae (p145) Tapping into the ghost of gamemnon at this incredible historic site. 7 Vouraïkos Gorge (p196) Tackling the dramatic gorge via the unique rack-andpinion train or on foot from the beautiful village of Kalavryta. Peloponnese Highlights Corfu (190km); Brindisi, Italy (380km) Kyllini Hlemoutsi Castle V# Cape Tripiti Kefallonia (20km) Zakynthos (10km) Ionian Sea Cape raxos Lake Kotichi / E55 maliada ]# Korakohori ndravidha ä# Elis Gastouni raxos Lapas Vardha Gulf of Patra Lake Pinios Efira Panopoulos / E65 ndirio io-ndirio #æ Bridge io Paralia ^# Patra ESSINI / E55 arathopoli Gargalianoi Koutala # # \ \ Chora essini # ä# Nestor's Palace Kalamata Petalidi Gialova >ç 82 PaleokastroV# Bay Petalidi Pylos t Likodimo Kitries (960m) / E65 t Panahaïko (1924m) t Lambia Cave of # (2221m) the Lakes ncient essini ä# Egio Khalandritsa Vouraïkos Gorge CHÏ #7 Kalavryta oni gias Lavras Ü# roania t phrodisio (1445m) Lake ELI Ladonas Pyrgos ]# ncient Lagkadia Pissa Olympia æ# / E55 #2 ncient Olympia imitsana Krestena #4 Kallithea Stemnitsa #4 Louisios Gorge #4 # æ Zacharo ncient Gortys ä# Karitena ndritsena t Lykeio Temple of Epicurean pollo ä# (1420m) Tholos egalopoli Gulf of ä# Kyparissia / E55 Kalo Nero Kyparissia Filiatra Kato chaia >ç 9 >ç 33 Lambia ncient Figalia Kopanaki / E55 Kamares ncient Lykosoura Klitoria eligalas ethoni Finikounda Harokopio Sapientza Town Koroni Sapientza Finikounda Islet Bay essinian Schiza Gulf Cape kritas >ç 33 Venetiko 0 40 km #e 0 20 miles