VICTORIA KYRIAKOPOULOS

Transcription

1 4 5 On the Road DES HANNIGAN Glass of wine, hard copy, palmtop, foldaway keyboard and sun hat (though not necessarily in that order); I get my priorities right while catching up with the gruelling work of keying in the beta on rooftop Mykonos ( p381 ). It rarely gets tougher than this... PAUL HELLANDER When I got to Leros ( p574 ) and saw this wild-looking gourouna (sow) I just had to have it. It s a 50cc fun bike with fat tyres and lots of attitude. It was perfect to get around the lanes of Leros with all my gear. I have never had so much fun collecting data. CHRIS DELISO The master sea-urchin hunter in Mesta (p614 ) was handier with the hoe than I, but nonetheless I enjoyed a successful dive along the rocks in search of breakfast in beautiful southwestern Chios. MICHAEL CLARK While following my climbing guide and new best friend, Kostas, 300m up the side of a sandstone tower at Meteora ( p264 ), the thought crossed my mind, What, exactly, am I doing here? The answer came quickly: Looking forward to one more meal on earth, and an extra shot of ouzo. KATE ARMSTRONG There are many close shaves while on the road, not least this one. I was interviewing the barber Mr Yiangos Hytiris (see A Cut Above the Rest, p689 ) from Kouramades on Corfu. Clearly bemused by my dishevelled appearance, he whipped out a pink smock, pushed me onto the chair and... VICTORIA KYRIAKOPOULOS Around Monastiraki ( p97 ), in downtown Athens, there is a delightful convergence of past and present, tourists and Athenians weaving their way around the ancient city and the grunge of the flea market. The bustling cafés are a favourite place to stop and enjoy the pulse of the city. See full author bios page 761

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3 Lonely Planet Publications 13 Contents On the Road 4 Greece Highlights 6 Destination Greece 17 Getting Started 19 Itineraries 23 History 30 A Who s Who of the Ancient Greek Pantheon 49 The Culture 52 Architecture 61 Environment 79 Food & Drink 84 Athens & Attica 94 ATHENS 95 History 95 Orientation 97 Information 99 Dangers & Annoyances 110 Sights 111 Activities 126 Walking Tour 126 Courses 129 Athens for Children 129 Tours 129 Festivals & Events 130 Sleeping 131 Eating 135 Drinking 139 Entertainment 140 Shopping 143 Getting There & Away 144 Getting Around 149 PIRAEUS 152 History 152 Orientation 152 Information 152 Sights 154 Sleeping 154 Eating & Drinking 154 Shopping 154 Getting There & Away 154 Getting Around 154 ATTICA 155 Cape Sounion 155 Elefsina (Eleusis) 156 Dafni 156 Around Peania 156 Vravrona 157 Marathon & Around 157 Mt Parnitha 158 Peloponnese 159 History 160 ACHAÏA 160 Patra 160 Diakofto 166 Zahlorou 167 Kalavryta 168 Around Kalavryta 169 CORINTHIA 170 Corinth 170 Ancient Corinth & Acrocorinth 173 Corinth Canal 174 Isthmia/Kyras Vrysi 174 Ancient Nemea 175 ARGOLIS 176 Argos 176 Mycenae 177 Nafplio 180 Around Nafplio 185 Epidavros 186 Southwest Argolis 188 ARKADIA 188 Tripoli 188 Megalopoli 190 Central Arkadia 190 Kynouria 192 LAKONIA 193 Sparta 194 Mystras 197 Langada Pass 199 Gefyra & Monemvasia 200 Neapoli 202

4 14 CONTENTS Gythio 202 THE MANI 204 Lakonian Mani 204 Messinian Mani 208 MESSINIA 210 Kalamata 210 Mavromati (Ancient Messini) 213 Koroni 214 Finikounda 214 Methoni 215 Pylos 216 Gialova 217 Around Gialova 217 ELIA 218 Tholos to Pyrgos 218 Pyrgos 219 Around Pyrgos 219 Olympia 219 Andritsena 223 Kyllini 224 KYTHIRA & ANTIKYTHIRA 224 Kythira 224 Antikythira 228 Central Greece 229 STEREA ELLADA 230 Thiva (Thebes) 230 Around Thiva 230 Livadia 232 Delphi 232 Around Delphi 237 Mt Parnassos 237 Arahova 238 Around Arahova 239 Galaxidi 239 Nafpaktos 240 Messolongi 241 Around Messolongi 243 Karpenisi 243 Around Karpenisi 245 Lamia 245 Iti National Park 247 Agios Konstantinos 247 Theologos 248 THESSALY 248 Larisa 248 Around Larisa 250 Volos 250 Around Volos 254 Pelion Peninsula 254 Trikala 262 Around Trikala 263 Meteora 264 Kalambaka 267 Kastraki 269 Northern Greece 271 MACEDONIA 272 Thessaloniki 272 Halkidiki 289 Kavala 295 Pella 298 Mt Olympus 298 Veria 301 Vergina 301 Edessa 302 Florina 303 Prespa Lakes 305 Kastoria 307 THRACE 310 Xanthi 312 Komotini 315 Alexandroupoli 316 Evros Delta 319 Alexandroupoli to Didymotiho 319 Orestiada 321 Around Orestiada 323 EPIROS 323 Metsovo 325 Ioannina 326 Around Ioannina 330 Zagorohoria 332 Konitsa 337 Around Konitsa 338 Preveza 339 Around Preveza 340 Parga 341 Around Parga 343 Igoumenitsa 343 Saronic Gulf Islands 346 AEGINA 347 Aegina Town 349 Around Aegina 351 ANGISTRI 351 POROS 352 Poros Town 353 Around Poros 355 Peloponnesian Mainland 355 HYDRA 355 Hydra Town 356 Around Hydra 359 SPETSES 359 Spetses Town 361 Around Spetses 363 Cyclades 364 History 365 Getting There & Away 366 Getting Around 367 ANDROS 368 Gavrio 368 Batsi 368 Hora (Andros) 370 Around Andros 371 TINOS 372 Hora (Tinos) 373 Around Tinos 375 SYROS 375 Ermoupolis 377 Galissas 380 Around Syros 381 MYKONOS 381 Hora (Mykonos) 383 Around Mykonos 389 DELOS 390 Ancient Delos 392 PAROS 392 Parikia 394 Naousa 397 Around Paros 399 ANTIPAROS 400 NAXOS 401 Hora (Naxos) 402 Around Naxos 407 LITTLE CYCLADES 410 Iraklia 411 Schinousa 412 Koufonisia 412 Donousa 414 AMORGOS 415 Katapola 415 Hora 417 Moni Hozoviotissis 417 Aegiali 417 Around Amorgos 418 IOS 418 Hora, Ormos & Mylopotas 419 Around Ios 422 SANTORINI (THIRA) 422 Fira 425 Around Santorini 429 Thirasia & Volcanic Islets 432 ANAFI 432 SIKINOS 433 FOLEGANDROS 435 Karavostasis 436 Hora 436 Around Folegandros 438 MILOS 438 Adamas 440 Plaka & Trypiti 441 Around Milos 442 KIMOLOS 442

5 CONTENTS 15 SIFNOS 442 Kamares 443 Apollonia 444 Around Sifnos 444 SERIFOS 453 Livadi 454 Hora 455 Around Serifos 456 KYTHNOS 456 Merihas 457 Around Kythnos 457 KEA 458 Korissia 458 Ioulida 459 Around Kea 459 Hidden Greece 445 Crete 460 History 461 Getting There & Away 462 Getting Around 464 CENTRAL CRETE 464 Iraklio 464 Around Iraklio 471 Knossos 472 Malia 474 Zaros 474 Gortyna 475 Phaestos 475 Agia Triada 475 Matala 476 Vori 476 Rethymno 476 Around Rethymno 481 Anogia 481 Spili 482 Plakias 482 Around Plakias 483 Agios Pavlos & Triopetra 483 Agia Galini 484 WESTERN CRETE 485 Hania 485 Akrotiri Peninsula 493 Hania to Xyloskalo 493 Samaria Gorge 493 Agia Roumeli 494 Loutro 494 Hora Sfakion 495 Around Hora Sfakion 495 Frangokastello 495 Sougia 496 Paleohora 496 Gavdos 499 Elafonisi 499 Kissamos 499 Around Kissamos 500 EASTERN CRETE 501 Lasithi Plateau 501 Agios Nikolaos 502 Elounda 505 Spinalonga Island 506 Kritsa 506 Ancient Lato 506 Gournia 506 Mohlos 507 Sitia 507 Around Sitia 509 Palekastro 509 Kato Zakros 509 Ancient Zakros 510 Xerokambos 510 Ierapetra 510 Gaïdouronisi (Hrysi) 512 Myrtos 512 Dodecanese 513 History 514 Getting There & Away 514 RHODES 516 Rhodes Town 519 Eastern Rhodes 527 Western Rhodes 529 Southern Rhodes 530 The Interior 531 HALKI 531 Emborios 532 Around Halki 533 KARPATHOS 534 Pigadia 535 Southern Karpathos 537 Northern Karpathos 539 KASOS 540 Fry 541 Around Kasos 542 KASTELLORIZO (MEGISTI) 543 Kastellorizo Village 544 SYMI 546 Gialos 548 Around Symi 549 TILOS 550 Livadia 551 Megalo Horio 553 Around Megalo Horio 553 NISYROS 554 Mandraki 555 Around Nisyros 556 KOS 557 Kos Town 559 Around Kos Town 562 Around Kos 563 ASTYPALEA 564 Skala & Hora 565 Livadi 567 West of Skala 567 East of Skala 567 KALYMNOS 568 Pothia 570 Around Pothia 571 Myrties, Masouri & Armeos 572 Telendos Islet 572 Emborios 573 Vathys & Rina 573 LEROS 574 Lakki 574 Xirokambos 574 Platanos & Agia Marina 576 Pandeli & Vromolithos 576 Krithoni & Alinda 577 PATMOS 577 Skala 579 Hora 580 North of Skala 581 South of Skala 582 LIPSI 582 Lipsi Village 583 Around the Island 585 ARKI & MARATHI 585 Arki 586 Marathi 586 AGATHONISI 586 Agios Giorgios 587 Around Agathonisi 587 Northeastern Aegean Islands 588 Getting There & Away 589 IKARIA & THE FOURNI ISLANDS 589 Agios Kirykos 592 Around Agios Kirykos 593 Evdilos 593 West of Evdilos 594 Fourni Islands 597 SAMOS 598 Vathy (Samos) 600 Pythagorio 603 Around Pythagorio 605 Southwestern Samos 605 Northern Samos 606 CHIOS 607 Chios Town 609 Central Chios 611 Northern Chios 612

6 Lonely Planet Publications 16 CONTENTS Southern Chios 612 INOUSSES 616 PSARA 617 LESVOS (MYTILINI) 618 Mytilini Town 619 South of Mytilini 623 Northern Lesvos 624 Western Lesvos 626 Southern Lesvos 628 LIMNOS 630 Myrina 631 Western Limnos 633 Central Limnos 633 Eastern Limnos 633 AGIOS EFSTRATIOS 634 SAMOTHRAKI 634 Kamariotissa 636 Hora 636 Sanctuary of the Great Gods 637 Around Samothraki 638 THASOS 639 Thasos (Limenas) 641 West Coast 643 East Coast 645 Evia & the Sporades 647 Getting There & Away 648 EVIA 649 Central Evia 649 Northern Evia 651 Southern Evia 653 SKIATHOS 654 Skiathos Town 656 Around Skiathos 658 SKOPELOS 659 Skopelos Town 661 Glossa 663 Around Skopelos 663 ALONNISOS 664 Patitiri 665 Old Alonnisos 667 Around Alonnisos 668 Islets Around Alonnisos 669 SKYROS 669 Skyros Town 670 Magazia & Molos 672 Around Skyros 673 Ionian Islands 675 History 676 Getting There & Away 677 CORFU 678 Corfu Town 681 North of Corfu Town 686 South of Corfu Town 688 West Coast 688 PAXI 691 Gaïos 692 Loggos 693 Lakka 693 Antipaxi 694 LEFKADA 694 Lefkada Town 696 East Coast & Surrounds 697 Vasiliki 698 West Coast & Around 698 Central Lefkada 698 Meganisi 699 KEFALLONIA 699 Argostoli 701 Sami & Surrounds 703 Assos 704 Around Assos 704 Fiskardo 704 ITHAKI 705 Vathy 706 Around Ithaki 707 ZAKYNTHOS 708 Athens & Attica p94 Zakynthos Town 710 Around Zakynthos 713 Directory 715 Transport 733 Health 749 Language 752 Glossary 759 The Authors 761 Behind the Scenes 764 Index 771 World Time Zones 786 Map Legend 788 Regional Map Contents Ionian Islands p676 Central Greece p229 Peloponnese pp162 3 Northern Greece p271 Evia & the Sporades p648 Saronic Gulf Islands p347 Cyclades p365 Crete pp462 3 Northeastern Aegean Islands p590 Dodecanese p515

7 Lonely Planet Publications 17 Destination Greece In the early days of the summer of 2007 Greeks awoke to find their country alight: literally. Forest fires had broken out in the thickly carpeted hills around Athens. Within a week or two they had also erupted with unparalleled fury across wide areas of the Peloponnese, Evia and even as far north as Epiros. Satellite pictures showed a pall of billowing smoke drifting skyward, ash covered many neighbourhoods of Athens, thousands lost their homes and 66 hapless souls their lives. All the while, incessant talking heads on Greek TV loudly proclaimed this to be Greece s worst disaster of recent times; it was widely believed that the fires were deliberately lit, adding insult to injury. The 2007 firestorm not only had an ecological fallout, but also severely dented the reputation of the conservative government of the New Democracy party of Konstandinos Karamanlis. Such was the anger directed at the government accused by many of idly standing by while their country burned that in the September 2007 national elections Karamanlis was returned with a majority of only two in the 300-seat parliament. It was a wake-up call and he knew it. All this came at a time when the three-and-a-half-year-old Karamanlis Government had considered itself to be sitting pretty. Greece had been revelling in the European spotlight for some time, enjoying a residual glow after the success of the 2004 Olympic Games, their unexpected triumph as UEFA football champions in the same year, and Patras being the European Capital of Culture in Yet for all their pride in and celebration of recent achievements, the Greek population proved themselves to be, ultimately, pragmatic and illustrated that politics is never far from the core of the Greek psyche. In the land where democracy was born, true democracy still prevails and the will of the people can be as strong as the winds that fanned those calamitous fires. Greece is a country with a hallowed past and an at-times turbulent present. Appreciation of the achievements of its classical past has tended to overshadow its development as a free nation since the War of Independence from the Ottomans in Many foreign Hellenists imbued with a romantic ideal of the Greece of Pericles and the Parthenon are blithely ignorant that Greece today is a vibrant modern European country. It is equally a land where the languages of recent migrant communities from the Balkans, Africa and Asia not to mention the English and German of EU migrants and retirees contribute to Greece s status as one of Europe s more recent multicultural societies. As recently as 1983, when it acceded to the EU, Greece was essentially a conservative, agrarian society famous for olive oil, coups, beaches and islands. Its transformation since its induction alone, at the time, among the southeastern European nations to the Brussels-led club of prosperous nations has been no less than dramatic. It could once take up to two years to obtain a landline for a home now Greeks boast more mobile phones than fixed-line phones. Internet hotspots pop up like mushrooms, while car ownership, once the privilege of the affluent few, is now a consumer commodity enjoyed by the majority. While sleeping on beaches was once de rigueur for travellers in the carefree 70s, tourism is now most definitely pitched to the middle to upper-end markets and sleeping rough is now oh-so out. This has created mixed blessings for visitors: better facilities inevitably come at higher prices; faster and safer sea travel has replaced more romantic FAST FACTS Population: 10,706,290 Percentage of women: 50.5% Tourists: 14.4 million annually Cars: 4.1 million GDP: US$256.3 billion GDP growth: 4.2% Per capita income: US$26,920 Inflation: 3.3% Unemployment: 9.6% External debt: US$67.23 billion

8 18 DESTINATION GREECE slow boat voyages to rocky isles; wholesome, home-cooked food may be hard to find amid the surfeit of tacos, sushi or stir-fried lamb; homey, boxlike rooms tended to with a smile have been usurped by airy, air-conned self-catering apartments with nary a Greek face in sight to say kalimera (good morning). Yet the fact that Greece continues to enjoy a steady influx of foreign visitors is easy to explain. The Greek people still have the welcome mat out. It is they who, after all, make Greece. Without the indomitable bonhomie of the Greeks themselves, Greece would be a different place altogether. Their zest for life, their curiosity and their unquestioning hospitality to the visitors in their midst is what makes a visitor s experience in the country inevitably unforgettable. The Greeks may curse their luck at times, distrust their politicians and believe oiling the wheels of bureaucracy a fact of life, but they maintain their joie de vivre, their spontaneity, their optimism. And, of course, their homeland offers myriad experiences, landscapes and activities. Greece is the pulsing nightclubs of Mykonos and the solemnity of Meteora; the grandeur of Delphi and the earthiness of Metsovo; the rugged Cretan hillsides and the lush wildflowers of spring. It is the blinding light of the Aegean sun, the melancholy throb of rembetika (blues songs), the tang of home-made tzatziki, the gossip in the kafeneia (coffee shops). It is the Parthenon solitary and pristine lording it over the hazy sprawl of Athens. So, the job at hand is simple: decide which particular Greece you want to experience. Then come and find it.

9 19 G e t t i n g S t a r t e d TRAVELLING RESPONSIBLY Let s face it, Greece is a hugely popular destination. While this may be sustainable in the quieter time of the year, from June to September Greece receives an enormous influx of travellers and tourists. While this may be a bonanza for the country, this annual influx puts great strains on the infrastructure, the environment, the often fragile flora and fauna and even the Greek people themselves. Mega-destinations like Santorini, Mykonos, Rhodes and Corfu often struggle to house and feed visitors and manage their detritus. The building of new developments often clashes with eco-minded organisations (see p554 ). In a similar vein, champions of fauna often fight losing battles with this relentless push for expansion (see p712 ). As a potential visitor to Greece with an understanding of what issues prevail upon the country, you may be able to alleviate some of the negative side effects of mass tourism and travel. July and August is the time of the fabled European Summer mass vacation. Outside this high season Greece is cheaper and accommodation is easier to find also the weather at these times is much more bearable. Travelling to and around Greece will usually involve polluting, mechanised transport. Seriously consider cycling it can be serious fun. You ll need good gears and a stout constitution at times those mountains can be challenging but the land is eminently suitable for cyclists. Local transport is nonetheless well-developed and reasonably priced. You don t really need your own motorised transport: you just need a bit more time. There are lots of trekking options (for example in the Zagorohoria, see p335 ), or you may care to charter a yacht (see p718 ) with a few friends and use wind power to propel you from island to island in much the same way that Odysseus (Ulysses) did. A growing number of hotels choose green options. Solar heating, the recycling of waste products, the use of energy efficient light bulbs and low impact architecture using local materials are all ways in which eco-savvy hotel and pension owners do their bit to keep green. Seek out such sleeping options and give them your mark of approval. An entire community in Crete has done away with electricity all together (see p485 ). Organic is a buzzword in Greece too. Greece has one of the healthiest dietary regimes around; couple that with local organic products and you are onto a culinary winner. Consider choosing your restaurants on the basis of their locally grown food products and tell the owners they will all get the message in good time. When you re thirsty, don t cart one of those dastardly plastic water bottles with you. Who will ultimately dispose of it? Drink from a water fountain or from a tap. (Note, although the water in Greece is generally fine, many islands have questionable, limited or no water supply, so it s is best to check with the locals there.) For more details on environmental issues, see p82. Shop sensibly too: look at labels and buy only locally made products. Don t just make a beeline for the most obviously popular spots: everyone else will be doing the same thing. Select your destination with some inventiveness. You ll probably have a better time. Above all, exercise common sense. Set the precedent yourself and travel responsibly, yet comfortably. It s not hard. Greece and its people will be all the better off for it and so will you. Greece receives an enormous influx of travellers and tourists

10 20 GETTING STARTED When to Go GETTING STARTED Top See Climate Charts ( p720 ) for more information. HOW MUCH? Local telephone call 0.30 per min Minimum taxi fare 4 Litre of milk 1.60 International Herald Tribune 2.50 Coffee Soft drink (can) 1.50 Cinema ticket 8 WHEN TO GO Spring and autumn are the best times to visit Greece; specifically May, June, September and October. Most of the country s tourist infrastructure goes into hibernation during winter, particularly on the islands. Some of the smaller islands close completely and some islanders head off to alternative homes on the mainland for a few months. Many hotels, seasonal cafés and restaurants close their doors from the end of November until the beginning of April; bus and ferry services are either drastically reduced or cancelled. The cobwebs are dusted off in time for Orthodox Easter (usually around April; see p724 ), when the first tourists start to arrive. Conditions are perfect between Easter and mid-june, when the weather is pleasantly warm in most places; beaches and ancient sites are relatively uncrowded; public transport operates at close to full schedules; and there s a bigger variety of accommodation options to choose from. Mid-June to the end of August is high season. It s party time on the islands and everything is in full swing. It s also very hot in July and August the mercury can soar to 40 C (over 100 F) in the shade just about anywhere in the country; the beaches are crowded; the ancient sites are swarming with tour groups; and in many places accommodation is booked solid. The high season starts to wind down in September and conditions are ideal once more until the end of October. By November the endless blue skies of summer have disappeared. November to February are the wettest months and it can get surprisingly cold. Snow is common on the mainland and in the mountains of Evia and Crete; it occasionally snows in Athens. But there are also plenty of sunny days and some visitors prefer the tranquillity that reigns at this time of year. COSTS & MONEY Greece is no longer a cheap country. Prices have rocketed since the adoption of the euro in It s hard to believe that inflation is less than 4%, as claimed by the government, when prices have risen by a perceptibly higher margin since that time. Some dramatic price rises, particularly for accommodation and restaurant meals, have been evident in recent years. A rock-bottom daily budget for a solo traveller would be 45. This would mean hitching, staying in youth hostels or camping, and only occasionally eating in restaurants or taking ferries. Allow at least 90 per day if you want your own room and plan to eat out, travel about and see the sights. If you want comfortable rooms and restaurants all the way, you will need close to 130 per day. These budgets are for individuals travelling in high season (July/August). Couples sharing a room can get by on less. Your money will go much further if you travel during the quieter months of May to June and September to October. Accommodation on the islands particularly is a lot cheaper outside high season. You will also be able to negotiate better deals if you stay a few days. Families can achieve considerable savings by looking for self-catering apartments, shopping for food and drink at supermarkets and local produce markets and cooking for themselves. Prices quoted throughout this book are for the high season of mid-july to late August. TRAVEL LITERATURE Travel writers can be a great source of inspiration for those planning to follow in their footsteps. Attic in Greece (Austen Kark) This tale revolves around the author s experiences of buying a house in the old town of Nafplio with his wife Nina. It s full of interesting insights gleaned through the author s time in Greece working for the BBC. TOP 10 Green Destinations So you want a green, sustainable vacation; you want to commune with the land, the people, the sea and the mountains. Here are our suggestions for some places you can visit that are off the beaten track. 1 The Zagorohoria (northwestern Greece; p ) mountains and trekking 2 Remote islands such as Gavdos (Crete; p ), Agios Efstratios (northeastern Aegean islands; p634 ) or Psara (northeastern Aegean islands; p617 ) minimal visitors, uncluttered space 3 Milia (Crete; p485 ) no electricity, organic products 4 Tilos Park (Tilos, Dodecanese; p554 ) 5 Hydra (Saronic Gulf Islands; p355 ) no cars 6 The Pomakohoria (eastern Macedonia; p314 ) no tourists, thermal baths 7 Dadia Forest Reserve (Thrace; p320) raptors, lots of them 8 Mt Athos (Halkidiki; p291 ) for spirituality; no women allowed 9 T r i a P o t a m i a ( c e n t r a l G re e c e ; p ) kayaking and skiing 1 0 Taÿgetos Mountains (Peloponnese; p193 ) walking and wandering Top Reads One of the best ways to learn about Greek culture is to immerse yourself in a good book or some poetry. The following top 10 have earned critical acclaim in Greece and abroad. For more information on Greek literature, see p60. 1 The Odyssey by Homer 2 Alexis Zorbas by Nikos Kazantzakis 3 A Century of Greek Poetry by Bien, Constantine, Keely, van Dyck 4 Christ Recrucified by Nikos Kazantzakis 5 Complete Poems of Cavafy by Constantine Cavafy 6 Dinner with Persephone by Patricia Storace 7 Life in the Tomb by Stratos Myrivilis 8 A House in Corfu by Emma Tennant 9 The Dark Labyrinth by Lawrence Durrell 10 The Olive Grove by Katherine Kizilos Our Favourite Festivals & Events Greeks love to celebrate, and there s almost always something, somewhere that s worth celebrating. The following list is our top 10, but for a comprehensive list of all the main festivals and events throughout the year, see p Easter (Corfu; p678 ) April to May 2 Summer theatre on Lykavittos Hill (Athens; p ) June to August 3 Patra Carnival (Peloponnese; p163 ) January to March 4 Hellenic Festival (Theatre of Epidavros, Peloponnese; p187 ) July to August 5 Skyros Carnival (Sporades; p672 ) February to March 6 Classical Music Festival (Nafplio; p183 ) May to July 7 Miaoulia Festival (Hydra; p358 ) June 8 Athens Festival (Theatre of Herodes Atticus, Athens; p130 ) June to September 9 Folegandros Festival (Cyclades; p437 ) July 10 Panagia tou Harou (Lipsi Village; Dodecanese p584 ) August

11 22 GETTING STARTED Internet Resources DON T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT Most travellers carry far too much gear, filling bags and backpacks with things that will never see the light of day. It s best to bring only the essentials; you can buy anything else you might need in Greece. The essentials: A digital camera Greece is enviably over-photogenic, so send photos home via the internet A few paperback novels to while away the hours spent riding ferries A shady hat, sunglasses and sun block indispensable in Greece s hot climate An inflatable neck pillow and eye shades for those long bus and train journeys Lonely Planet s Greek Phrasebook talk like the locals Sturdy shoes ancient sites and historic towns and villages have rocky paths Your international driving licence you can t drive without it Your ipod carry your photos of home and favourite music and video clips Your mobile phone buy a local SIM card and keep in touch with family and friends Mermaid Singing/Peel me a Lotus (Charmian Clift) A duet of titles from Clift s Greece period in the late 50s. They reflect her time as mother, spouse and blossoming author on the island of Hydra where she lived among the (at times) smothering embrace of her fellow Greek mothers and spouses. Stars Over Paxos (John Gill) Travel writer Gill recounts his early experience on Paxi in the Ionian islands. Ostensibly helping out with the olive harvest Gill becomes enmeshed in the day to day life of the Paxiots who both befriend him and ultimately become alienated by him. A fascinating read about the mindset of a small island community. The Colossus of Marousi (Henry Miller) Few writers have matched the enthusiasm expressed in this classic tale. Miller s fervour never flags as he leaps from one adventure to the next. Some travellers get upset about being ripped off by a taxi driver on arrival; to Miller, it s another experience to be savoured. The Greek Islands (Lawrence Durrell) More than just a travel guide, Durrell s photojournalistic essay of Greece in the 70s stands the test of time with his quiet introspective observations of Greek history and culture that are still relevant today. The Hill of Kronos (Peter Levi) A more serious and cerebral look at Greece from a long-time philhellene who has known Greece for many years. Levi s insight touches upon the history, politics and darker days of Greece during occupation and dictatorship. His long-time love and patience wins out with a picture of Greece that is both objective and subjective. The Mani (Patrick Leigh Fermor) Another ardent philhellene, Patrick Leigh Fermor is well known for his exploits in rallying the Cretan resistance in WWII. He now lives in Kardamyli in the Peloponnese. The Summer of My Greek Taverna (Tom Stone) A humorous yet bittersweet tale of love, dreams and anticipation. Stone does what we would all like to do run a restaurant on a Greek island in this instance Patmos. It s not all plain sailing as Stone learns the hard lesson of dealing with Greeks on their turf. It s a great read for the beach. INTERNET RESOURCES There is a huge number of websites providing information about Greece. Culture Guide ( Lots of information about contemporary culture and the arts. Greek Ferries ( One-stop site with access to all the latest international and domestic ferry information. Greek National Tourist Organisation ( For concise tourist information. Greek Search Engine ( The best starting point for web browsers. Lonely Planet (www. ) Has postcards from other travellers and the Thorn Tree bulletin board, where you can ask questions before you go or dispense advice when you get back. Ministry of Culture ( Information about ancient sites, art galleries and museums.

12 23 I t i n e r a r i e s CLASSIC ROUTES A CYCLADES CIRCLE Two Weeks / Athens to Athens The Cyclades are by far the most popular and best known of the Greek islands. Start with a couple of days sightseeing in Athens ( p95 ), before catching a ferry from Rafina (p145). The first port of call is classy Andros ( p368 ) with its fine beaches and art galleries. Move along to Tinos ( p372 ), a pilgrimage island for many Orthodox Christians. Next in line is chic Mykonos ( p381 ), famous for its bars and beaches, and stepping-off point for the sacred island of Delos ( p390 ). Naxos ( p401 ), the greenest and most fertile of the Cyclades is a great place for walkers. The sheer cliffs of the volcanic caldera at Santorini (Thira; p422, created by one of the largest eruptions ever recorded, are a sight not to be missed. Start your return leg with a couple of days partying on youthful Ios ( p418 ) then recover on nearby Paros ( p392 ) with its plethora of fine beaches and more mellow nightlife. Swing west on a weekly ferry to demure Sifnos ( p442 ) with its olive grove, oleanders, almonds and junipers. Finally, do see discrete Kythnos ( p456 ) and mingle with the Athenian yacht crowd. Piraeus ATTICA ATHENS Rafina Kythnos Andros CYCLADES A E G E A N S E A Tinos Delos Mykonos Bearing southeast from Athens, this circular route covers several hundred kilometres, taking you through the perimeter of the Cyclades and back to Athens via the jewels of this island group. Paros M Y R T O Ö N S E A Sifnos Naxos Ios Santorini (Thira) S E A O F C R E T E

13 24 ITINERARIES Classic Routes ITINERARIES Classic Routes 25 THE GRAND TOUR One Month / Athens to Ancient Delphi A month is long enough to have a really good look at the country and to experience the huge variety of attractions (both ancient and modern) that it has to offer. From bustling Athens ( p95 ), head to the pretty Venetian city of Nafplio ( p180 ) in the Peloponnese. Nafplio, first capital of independent Greece, is the perfect base for day trips to Ancient Mycenae ( p177 ) and the celebrated Theatre of Epidavros ( p187 ). Head south from here to the attractive fishing town of Gythio ( p202 ) to catch a ferry across to Kissamos ( p499 ) on Crete, possibly stopping at the delightfully unspoiled island of Kythira ( p224 ) on the way. It s certainly worth calling in at either the charming Hania ( p485 ) or Rethymno ( p476 ) on the journey along Crete s northern coast to the capital Iraklio ( p464 ) and the ruins of Knossos ( p472 ). From Iraklio, jump across to not-to-be-missed Santorini (Thira; p422 ) and start island-hopping north. Consider unwinding for a few days at some of the smaller islands like Anafi ( p432 ) and Koufonisia ( p412 ), both perfect for beach lovers, before hitting the bars and clubs of hedonistic Mykonos ( p381 ). Mykonos also has weekly connections to cosmopolitan Thessaloniki ( p272 ) in northern Greece. Thessaloniki is a pleasant surprise to many travellers; a sophisticated city with some fine Roman and Byzantine architecture and a lively nightlife. Walkers will certainly want to call at Mt Olympus ( p298 ) on the way to the amazing rock monasteries of Meteora ( p264 ), home of hermit monks. The last stop is at unforgettable Ancient Delphi ( p233 ), former home of the mysterious Delphic oracle and steeped in ancient Greek history; just the place to ask what to do next. MAINLY MAINLAND Two Weeks / Igoumenitsa to Athens If entering Greece from Italy with your own transport, Igoumenitsa is a good place to start. Once the Via Egnatia highway is completed access across the north will be easier but not half as interesting as it is now. Do not linger in Igoumenitsa ( p343 ), the busy entry port in Greece s far northwest; head across the mountains to Ioannina ( p326 ) with its arresting lakeside location, Ottoman monuments and social life. Head northwards to the Zagorohoria ( p332 ), unlike anything else you will see in Greece. Cross the Pindos Mountains via the less-travelled northern route to Kastoria ( p307 ), a pretty lakeside town. Now make a beeline for the Prespa Lakes ( p305 ), where tranquillity reigns over landscapes of water and mountains. Visit the artists town of Florina ( p303 ) and cruise through western Macedonia with an overnight stop in Edessa ( p302 ) famous for its tumbling waterfalls. Spend some time in bustling Thessaloniki ( p272 ) before heading to the home of the ancient gods at Mt Olympus ( p298 ), a mere 90-minute drive south. Passing through the Vale of Tembi ( p250 ) you enter the sprawling plains of Thessaly where monks built monasteries atop pinnacles of rock at stunning Meteora ( p264 ). Heading south the route takes you across agricultural plains and mountains to the sea once more near Lamia ( p245 ), not far from where ancient hero Leonidas stood his ground against invading Persians at Thermopylae ( p246 ). A fast highway now leads on to Athens, a detour from which leads you to Thiva (Thebes; p230 ). From here choose the less-travelled mountain route via Erythres to approach Athens ( p95 ). A month should be ample time to complete this epic trip, taking you through the Peloponnese, Crete, the Cyclades and back to the mainland through northern and central Greece. I O N I A N S E A Meteora EPIROS MACEDONIA Mt Olympus (2917m) STEREA ELLADA PELOPONNESE THESSALY Ancient Delphi Thessaloniki ATTICA Ancient Mycenae Theatre of Epidavros Nafplio ATHENS A E G E A N S E A Mykonos Igoumenitsa I O N I A N S E A EPIROS Prespa Lakes Zagorohoria Ioannina Florina Kastoria STEREA ELLADA Edessa Mt Olympus (2917m) Vale of Tembi Meteora THESSALY Lamia Thermopylae MACEDONIA Thessaloniki THRACE A E G E A N S E A This circuitous 1000km-long route takes in the more spectacular scenery of the north plus the centre s most visited attraction, Meteora, and finally leads you to Athens along routes that are not used by many travellers. CYCLADES Thiva (Thebes) Gythio M Y R T O Ö N S E A Koufonisia Erythres ATTICA ATHENS M E D I T E R R A N E A N S E A Kythira Kissamos Hania S E A O F C R E T E Rethymno Santorini (Thira) CRETE Iraklio Knossos Anafi PELOPONNESE M Y R T O Ö N S E A

14 26 ITINERARIES Roads Less Travelled ITINERARIES Roads Less Travelled 27 ROADS LESS TRAVELLED EASTERN ISLAND RUN Three Weeks / Rhodes to Alexandroupoli This route takes travellers island-hopping north from Rhodes through the islands of the Dodecanese and the Northeastern Aegean, finishing in Alexandroupoli. You ll need to spend a few days on Rhodes ( p516 ), exploring the atmospheric old city and visiting the spectacular Acropolis of Lindos ( p528 ) before setting sail for Tilos ( p550 ). This laid-back island is a great place for walkers and those seeking uncrowded beaches and, unlike its neighbours, it is one of the few islands in the Dodecanese to have escaped the ravages of development. The next stop is Nisyros ( p554 ), where the eruptions of Mt Polyvotis have created a bizarre volcanic landscape that will take your breath away. You ll need to call briefly at Kos ( p557 ) to pick up a ferry onward to Patmos ( p577 ), an island that St John the Divine found sufficiently inspiring to pen his Book of Revelations. Patmos has good connections to ultra-laid-back Ikaria ( p589 ), where you can laze at some of the Aegean s best beaches before continuing to Chios ( p607 ) and its fabulous mastic villages of the south. The next stop is Lesvos (Mytilini; p618 ), birthplace of the poet Sappho and producer of Greece s finest olive oil and ouzo. Limnos ( p630 ) is little more than a transit point on the journey north to Samothraki ( p634 ) and the Sanctuary of the Great Gods. The final leg is to the Thracian port of Alexandroupoli ( p316 ), where travellers will find good transport connections to Thessaloniki and Athens. A CENTRAL CIRCUIT Two Weeks / Thessaloniki to Igoumenitsa This journey starts in the bustling, stylish capital of Thessaloniki in Macedonia, and heads south and west through some spectacular mountain scenery to finish at the Adriatic port of Igoumenitsa. Thessaloniki ( p272 ) is an exciting lively city worth a few days of fun. Head south to Litohoro ( p299 ), the trailhead for the ascent of Mt Oympus ( p298 ). Allow two full days to ascend to the home of the gods. When done, head south into Thessaly through the Vale of Tembi ( p250 ) and make for the pinnacled rocks and hanging monasteries of Meteora ( p264 ) climb them if you re not vertiginously challenged. Cut due south across rolling farmland to unassuming Lamia ( p245 ) before heading west to alpine Karpenisi ( p243 ) at the heart of Greece s Little Switzerland. Lay up for a day or two in this relaxing mountain resort then spiral on west and downwards to the languid lagoon of Messolongi ( p241 ). Now go where few travellers venture: follow the often lonely road of the west coast through little visited resorts, such as Astakos ( p243 ) and Mytikas ( p243 ) maybe add rarely visited Kalamos ( p243 ) to your island collection. Barrel north to the fishing port cum resort of Preveza ( p339 ) for the best sardines in Greece, then make a beeline for Parga ( p341 ) on the Epiros Riviera where you can swim in crystal blue coves. Your road will lead you to Igoumenitsa ( p343 ), an important port linking Greece with Italy and the rest of Europe, and the start of the Via Egnatia highway that leads all the way to distant İstanbul. Furthest from the Greek mainland, this leisurely trip through the Dodecanese to the islands of the Northeastern Aegean covers about 800km. MACEDONIA THESSALY STEREA ELLADA Thessaloniki SPORADES T H R A C I A N S E A Limnos Alexandroupoli Samothraki NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS A E G E A N S E A THRACE Chios Lesvos Igoumenitsa Parga EPIROS Meteora MACEDONIA Litohoro Mt Olympus (2917m) Vale of Tembi THESSALY Thessaloniki A E G E A N S E A This unusual route is best suited if you have your own transport, though it can be done by bus. The route combines ancient sites, mountains and sea in a package that few travellers have thought of. ATTICA ATHENS Preveza PELOPONNESE CYCLADES Ikaria Patmos I O N I A N S E A Mytikas Astakos Kalamos Karpenisi Messolongi Lamia STEREA ELLADA M Y R T O Ö N Kos S E A DODECANESE Nisyros Tilos Rhodes K A R P A T H I A N Acropolis of Lindos S E A PELOPONNESE ATTICA ATHENS

15 28 ITINERARIES Roads Less Travelled ITINERARIES Tailored Trips 29 This islandhopping odyssey takes in 13 of the 17 official Dodecanese islands. With a little more time you can easily fit in the whole set. Patmos A E G E A N S E A Astypalea S E A O F C R E T E Leros Lipsi BEST OF THE DODECANESE Four Weeks / Kasos to Patmos The journey starts on the tiny and almost forgotten island of Kasos and winds its way along the borders of the Turkish coast to the holy island of Patmos. Take a slow boat from Piraeus to Kasos ( p540 ) and really step back in time for a day or two visiting monasteries and caves before moving on to the elongated island of Karpathos ( p534 ) with its vibrant, ancient culture and music. After a few days step onto a ferry to tiny Halki ( p531 ) for some fine food and relaxed swimming. Take a caïque to the largest island of the Dodecanese, Rhodes ( p516 ) and take in the stunning medieval old town. If time and budget allow, fly to Kastellorizo ( p543 ), Greece s easternmost outpost and home to a busy expat Greek-Australian community. Cruise across to rocky Symi ( p546 ) with its oh-so-pretty harbour, then chill out in laid-back Tilos ( p550 ) with its fine walking trails and down-to-earth lifestyle. Hop across and northwards to visit a living volcano on craggy Nisyros ( p554 ) then party on at holiday island Kos ( p557 ) where there is ample room for everyone. Fly to startlingly bare yet unmistakably Cycladic Astypalea ( p564 ; the flight path goes via Leros) for a different taste of the Dodecanese, then fly back and on to Leros ( p574 ), an island that has not lost touch with its roots. Take a fast catamaran to Lipsi ( p582 ), almost out of sight of the mainstream, but much loved by aficionados of small and cosy islands for its good food and beaches. Finally make a pilgrimage to spiritual Patmos ( p577 ) for some excellent food and even more enticing beaches and getaway corners. When finished take a fast and luxurious ferry back to Piraeus or head on northwards to the islands of the Northeastern Aegean. Kos DODECANESE Karpathos Nisyros Tilos Halki K A R P A T H I A N S E A Symi Rhodes M E D I T E R R A N E A N S E A Kastellorizo TAILORED TRIPS ON THE GO If you really fancy a vacation that combines a number of activities beyond beaching it and dining then listen up. Start by some relaxing fly fishing on the Aoös River near Konitsa ( p337 ) in Epiros. After a lunch of freshly caught trout, try walking the Vikos Gorge ( p335 ) and maybe follow that with a mountain hike to Drakolimni ( p336 ). Now take your gear south and check out some fast windsurfing at Vasiliki ( p698 ) on the island of Lefkada. When surfed out and you ve caught your breath, trek on southwards across the Gulf of Corinth to the deep southwest of the Peloponnese at Karitena ( p190 ) where you can white-water raft or hot dog a fast-flowing river and or simply hike. Now hop on a slow ferry to Crete ( p460 ) from the southern Peloponnese and really do some walking. Hike the Trans-European E4 walking trail and take in the spectacular Samaria Gorge ( p493 ) while you are at it. Allow a good week for this very challenging slog. Now cruise to Rhodes ( p516 ) and take in some super scuba diving and when done with exploring the depths see the water from above in a bout of kite surfing at Mikri Vigla ( p407 ) on Naxos. Exhausted? NORTHERN ANTIQUITIES Make Thessaloniki your base and seek out some of the lesser-known but no less spectacular sites of the sprawling regions of Epiros, Macedonia and Thrace. This itinerary is best accomplished with your own transport. Revel for a day or two in the vibrant nightlife of Thessaloniki ( p272 ) and visit its numerous museums, then head west to the ancient Macedonian capital of Pella ( p298 ), where you can admire the ruins of Alexander the Great s home base. See the stunning tomb of Alexander s father Phillip of Macedon at nearby Vergina ( p301 ), the north s singularly most impressive archaeological site. Cross the looming Pindos Mountains to Ioannina ( p326 ) from where you can easily visit the splendid amphitheatre and oracle of Dodoni ( p332 ), the eerie underground site of ancient Hades at the Nekromanteio of Afyra ( p343 ), close to the Epirote coast, and the Roman-era settlement of Nikopolis ( p340 ). Cross back to Macedonia and take another breather in Thessaloniki before heading east. The first stop will be Philippi ( p296 ), a Roman site where Christianity was first accepted in Europe and close to the busy port of Kavala ( p295 ) with its archaeological museum. Do not miss out on the spectacular Sanctuary of the Great Gods ( p637 ) on the island of Samothraki where the Winged Victory of Samothrace was found (now on display in the Louvre in Paris). Konitsa Vikos Gorge Vasiliki Nekromanteio of Afyra Drakolimni Karitena Vergina Ioannina Dodoni Nikopolis Samaria Gorge Philippi Pella Kavala Thessaloniki Naxos Rhodes Sanctuary of the Great Gods Kasos

16 Lonely Planet Publications 30 HISTORY Geometric Age 31 Greek is Europe s oldest written language, second only to Chinese in the world. It is traceable back to the Linear B script of Minoan Crete. H i s t o r y STONE AGE The discovery of a Neanderthal skull in a cave on the Halkidiki peninsula of Macedonia in 1960 confirmed the presence of humans in Greece 700,000 years ago. Bones and tools from as far back as Palaeolithic times (around 6500 BC) have been found in the Pindos Mountains. The move to a pastoral existence came during Neolithic times ( BC). The fertile region that is now Thessaly was the first area to be settled. The people grew barley and wheat, and bred sheep and goats. They used clay to produce pots, vases and simple statuettes of the Great Mother (the earth goddess), whom they worshipped. By 3000 BC people were living in settlements complete with streets, squares and mud-brick houses. The villages were centred on a large palacelike structure that belonged to the tribal leader. The most complete Neolithic settlements in Greece are Dimini (inhabited from 4000 to 1200 BC, see p254 ) and Sesklo ( p254 ), near Volos. BRONZE AGE Around 3000 BC, Indo-European migrants introduced the processing of bronze (an alloy of copper and tin) into Greece and so began three remarkable civilisations: the Cycladic, Minoan and Mycenaean. Cycladic Civilisation The Cycladic civilisation, centred on the islands of the Cyclades, is divided into three periods: Early ( BC), Middle ( BC) and Late ( BC). The most impressive legacy of this civilisation is the statuettes carved from Parian marble the famous Cycladic figurines. Like statuettes from Neolithic times, the Cycladic figurines depicted images of the Great Mother. Other remains include bronze and obsidian tools and weapons, gold jewellery, and stone and clay vases and pots. The peoples of the Cycladic civilisation were accomplished sailors who developed prosperous maritime trade links. They exported their wares to Asia Minor (the west of present-day Turkey), Europe and North Africa, as well as to Crete and continental Greece. The Cyclades islands were influenced by both the Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations. Minoan Civilisation Crete s Minoan civilisation was the first advanced civilisation to emerge in Europe, drawing its inspiration from two great Middle Eastern civilisations, the Mesopotamian and the Egyptian. Archaeologists divide the Minoan civi- lisation, like the Cycladic, into three phases: Early ( BC), Middle ( BC) and Late ( BC). Many aspects of Neolithic life endured during the Early period, but by 2500 BC most people on the island had been assimilated into a new culture that we now call the Minoan after King Minos, the mythical ruler of Crete. The Minoan civilisation reached its peak during the Middle period, producing pottery and metalwork of great beauty that required much imagination and skill to make. The Late period saw the civilisation decline both commercially and militarily against Mycenaean competition from the mainland, until its abrupt end, attributed to the eruption of the volcano on Thira (Santorini) in around 1100 BC. Mycenaean Civilisation The decline of the Minoan civilisation coincided with the rise of the first great civilisation on the Greek mainland, the Mycenaean ( BC), which reached its peak between 1500 and 1200 BC. Named after the ancient city of Mycenae, where the German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann made his celebrated finds in 1876, it is also known as the Achaean civilisation, after the Indo-European branch of migrants who had settled on mainland Greece and absorbed many aspects of Minoan culture. Unlike Minoan society, where the lack of city walls seems to indicate relative peace under some form of central authority, Mycenaean civilisation was characterised by independent city-states such as Corinth, Pylos, Tiryns and, most powerful of them all, Mycenae. These were ruled by kings who inhabited palaces enclosed within massive walls on easily defensible hilltops. The Mycenaeans most impressive legacy is their magnificent gold jewellery and ornaments, the best of which can be seen in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens. The Mycenaeans wrote in what is called Linear B (an early form of Greek), and worshipped gods who were precursors of the later Greek deities. The Mycenaean civilisation came to an end in the 12th century BC, when it was overrun by the Dorians. GEOMETRIC AGE The origins of the Dorians remain uncertain. They are generally thought to have come from Epiros or northern Macedonia, but some historians argue that they only arrived from that direction because they had been driven out of Doris, in central Greece, by the Mycenaeans. The warrior-like Dorians settled first in the Peloponnese, but soon fanned out over much of the mainland, razing the city-states and enslaving the inhabitants. The Dorians brought a traumatic break with the past, and the next 400 years are often referred to as Greece s dark age. But it is unfair to Greece Before History, by Priscilla Murray and Curtis Neil Runnels, is a good introduction to Greece s earliest days. www. ancientgreece.com is a great web portal for all things ancient and Greek. For more on Linear B script, try scripts.com/linearb.html BC 3000 BC BC BC BC BC For 4000 years the early inhabitants of the Greek peninsula live a simple agrarian life growing crops and herding animals. Communities with housing and planned streets begin to appear by around 3000 BC. The discovery of how to blend copper and tin into a strong alloy gives rise to the Bronze Age. Trade flourishes and increased prosperity sees the birth of the Cycladic, Minoan and Mycenaean civilisations. For around 1900 years two parallel civilisations, the Cycladic and the Minoan, prospered, developing sophisticated forms of manufacturing, governance and trade links. During this period the island of Santorini erupts with a cataclysmic explosion, one of the largest volcanic events in recorded history, causing a Mediterraneanwide tsunami that probably contributed to the destruction of Minoan civilisation. Mycenaean culture from the Peloponnesian mainland usurps much of the Cretan and Cycladic cultures. Goldsmithing is a predominant feature of Mycenaean life, as is rigid authority. Arriving from the North, the mysterious Dorians herald a 400-year period of obscurity in Greek cultural and trading life as existing infrastructures are obliterated.

17 32 HISTORY Archaic Age HISTORY Archaic Age 33 The people of the various city-states were unified by the development of a Greek alphabet dismiss the Dorians completely; they brought iron with them and developed a new style of pottery, decorated with striking geometric designs although art historians are still divided on whether they merely copied designs perfected by Ionians in Attica. The Dorians worshipped male gods instead of fertility goddesses and adopted the Mycenaean gods Poseidon, Zeus and Apollo, paving the way for the later Greek religious pantheon. ARCHAIC AGE By about 800 BC Greece had begun to settle down again. The Dorians had developed into a class of land-holding aristocrats and Greece had been divided into a series of independent city-states. The most important of these were Argos, Athens, Corinth, Elis, Sparta and Thebes (Thiva). The city-states were autonomous, free to pursue their own interests as they saw fit. Most abolished monarchic rule in favour of an aristocratic form of government, usually headed by an arhon (chief magistrate). Aristocrats were often disliked by the population because of their inherited privileges, and some city-states fell to the rule of tyrants after Kypselos, the first tyrant of Corinth, started the practice in Corinth around 650 BC. Tyrants seized their position rather than inheriting it. While today the word tyrant may have darker overtones, in ancient times they were often seen as being on the side of ordinary citizens. The people of the various city-states were unified by the development of a Greek alphabet (of Phoenician origin, though the Greeks introduced the practice of indicating vowels within the script), the verses of Homer (which created a sense of a shared Mycenaean past), the establishment of the Olympic Games (which brought all the city-states together) and the setting up of central sanctuaries such as Delphi (a neutral meeting ground for lively negotiations); all common bonds giving Greeks, for the first time, a sense of national identity. This period is known as the Archaic, or Middle, Age. Athens & Solon The seafaring city-state of Athens, meanwhile, was still in the hands of aristocrats when Solon was appointed arhon in 594 BC with a mandate to defuse the mounting tensions between the haves and the have-nots. He cancelled all debts and freed those who had become enslaved because of them. Declaring all free Athenians equal by law, Solon abolished inherited privileges and restructured political power establishing four classes based on wealth. Although only the first two classes were eligible for office, all four were allowed to elect magistrates and vote on legislation. His reforms have led him to be regarded as a harbinger of democracy. Sparta In the Peloponnese, Sparta was a very different kind of city-state. The Spartans were descended from Dorian invaders and used the Helots, the original inhabitants of Laconia, as their slaves. They ran their society along strict military lines. Newborn babies were inspected and, if found wanting, were left to die on a mountaintop. At the age of seven boys were taken from their homes to start rigorous training that would turn them into elite soldiers. Girls were spared military training, but were forced to keep very fit in order to produce healthy sons. Spartan indoctrination was so effective that dissent was unknown and a degree of stability was achieved that other city-states could only dream of. While Athens became powerful through trade, Sparta became the ultimate military machine and it towered above the other city-states. The Persian Wars The Persian drive to destroy Athens was sparked by the city s support for a rebellion in the Persian colonies of Asia Minor. Emperor Darius spent five years suppressing the revolt and emerged hellbent on revenge. A 25,000-strong Persian army reached Attica in 490 BC, but suffered a humiliating defeat when outmanoeuvred by an Athenian force of 10,000 at the Battle of Marathon. Darius died in 485 BC, so it was left to his son Xerxes to fulfil his father s ambition of conquering Greece. In 480 BC Xerxes gathered men from every far-flung nation of his empire and launched a coordinated invasion by land and sea, the size of which the world had never seen. Some 30 city-states met in Corinth to devise a common defence (others, including Delphi, sided with the Persians). They agreed on a combined army and navy under Spartan command, with the strategy provided by the Athenian leader Themistocles. The Spartan King Leonidas led the army to the pass at Thermopylae, near present-day Lamia, the main passage into central Greece from the north. This bottleneck was easy to defend, and although the Greeks were greatly outnumbered they held the pass until a traitor showed the Persians a way over the mountains. The Greeks were forced to retreat, but Leonidas, along with 300 of his elite Spartan troops, fought to the death. The Spartans and their Peloponnesian allies fell back on their second line of defence, an earthen wall across the Isthmus of Corinth, while the Persians advanced upon Athens. Themistocles ordered his people to flee the city, the women and children to Salamis (today s Salamina) and the men to sea with the Athenian fleet. The Persians razed Attica and burned Athens to the ground. Things did not go so well for the Persian navy. By skilful manoeuvring, the Greek navy trapped the larger Persian ships in the narrow waters off Sparta became the ultimate military machine BC BC BC 594 BC 490 BC 480 BC Homer composes the Iliad and the Odyssey some time during this century. The two epic poems are Greece s earliest pieces of literary art and are still praised for their poetic genius. Independent city-states begin to emerge in the so-called Archaic Age as the Dorians mature and develop. Aristocrats rule these mini-states while tyrants occasionally take power by force. The Greek alphabet emerges from the Phoenician script. Having originated around 1000 BC in the Peloponnese, the Spartans come to play a decisive role in Greek history. Politically and militarily, the Spartan star shines in ascendancy for around 200 years. Solon, a ruling aristocrat in Athens, introduces rules of fair play to his citizenry. His radi cal rule-changing in effect creating human and political rights is believed to have been the first step to real democracy. Athens invokes the ire of the distant Persians by supporting insurgencies within Persian territorial domains. Seeking revenge, the Persian king Darius sends an army to teach Greece a lesson but is defeated at Marathon. Darius son and heir Xerxes seeks to extract revenge for the defeat of Marathon. The enormous army sent to crush Greece defeats Leonidas at Thermopylae, sacks Athens but is routed at sea off Salamis.

18 34 HISTORY Classical Age HISTORY The Rise of Macedon 35 when Pericles became leader of Athens in 461 BC, he moved the treasury from Delos to the Acropolis Salamis, where they became easy pickings for the more mobile Greek vessels. Xerxes returned to Persia in disgust, leaving his general Mardonius to subdue Greece. The result was quite the reverse; a year later the Greeks, under the Spartan general Pausanias, obliterated the Persian army at the Battle of Plataea. CLASSICAL AGE After defeating the Persians the disciplined Spartans retreated to the Peloponnese, while Athens basked in its role as liberator. In 477 BC it founded the Delian League so called because its treasury was on the sacred island of Delos. The league consisted of almost every state with a navy, no matter how small, including many of the Aegean islands and some of the Ionian city-states in Asia Minor. Ostensibly its purpose was twofold: to create a naval force to liberate the city-states that were still occupied by Persia, and to protect against another Persian attack. The swearing of allegiance to Athens and an annual contribution of ships (later just money) were mandatory. The league, in effect, became an Athenian empire. Indeed, when Pericles became leader of Athens in 461 BC, he moved the treasury from Delos to the Acropolis and focused on using the treasury s contents to begin a building programme in which no expense was spared. Pericles first objectives were to rebuild the temple complex of the Acropolis, which had been destroyed by the Persians, and to link Athens to its lifeline, the port of Piraeus, with fortified walls designed to withstand any future onslaught. With the Aegean Sea safely under its wing, Athens began to look westwards for further expansion, bringing it into conflict with the Sparta-dominated Peloponnesian League. A series of skirmishes and provocations subsequently led to the Peloponnesian Wars. First Peloponnesian War One of the major triggers of the first Peloponnesian War ( BC) was the Corcyra incident, in which Athens supported Corcyra (present-day Corfu) in a row with Corinth, its mother city. Corinth called on Sparta to help and the Spartans, whose power depended to a large extent on Corinth s wealth, duly rallied to the cause. Athens knew it couldn t defeat the Spartans on land, so it abandoned Attica and withdrew behind its mighty walls, opting to rely on its navy to put pressure on Sparta by blockading the Peloponnese. Athens suffered badly during the siege; plague broke out in the overcrowded city, killing a third of the population including Pericles but the defences held firm. The blockade of the Peloponnese eventually began to hurt and the two cities reached an uneasy truce. Second Peloponnesian War The truce lasted until 413 BC, when the Spartans went to the aid of the Sicilian city of Syracuse, which the Athenians had been besieging for three years. The Spartans ended the siege, and destroyed the Athenian fleet and army in the process. Despite this, Athens fought on for a further nine years before it finally surrendered to Sparta in 404 BC. Corinth urged the total destruction of Athens, but the Spartans felt honour-bound to spare the city that had saved Greece from the Persians. Instead they crippled it by confiscating its fleet, abolishing the Delian League and tearing down the walls between the city and Piraeus. Spartan Rule During the wars Sparta had promised to restore liberty to the city-states that had turned against Athens, but now it changed its mind and installed oligarchies (governments run by the super-rich) supervised by Spartan garrisons. Soon there was widespread dissatisfaction. Sparta found it had bitten off more than it could chew when it began a campaign to reclaim the cities of Asia Minor from Persian rule. This brought the Persians back into Greek affairs, where they found willing allies in Athens and an increasingly powerful Thebes. The rivalry between Sparta and Thebes culminated in the decisive Battle of Leuctra in 371 BC, where Thebes, led by Epaminondas, inflicted Sparta s first defeat in a pitched battle. Spartan influence collapsed and Thebes filled the vacuum. In a surprise about-turn, Athens now allied itself with Sparta, and their combined forces met the Theban army at Mantinea in the Peloponnese in 362 BC. The battle was won by Thebes, but Epaminondas was killed. Without him, Theban power soon crumbled. Athens was unable to take advantage of the situation; like the other city-states it was a spent force, and a new power was rising in the north: Macedon. THE RISE OF MACEDON While the Greeks engineered their own decline through the Peloponnesian Wars, Macedon (geographically the modern nomós, or prefecture, of Macedonia) was gathering strength in the north. Macedon had long been regarded as a bit of a backwater, a loose assembly of primitive hill tribes nominally ruled by a king. They probably spoke a variant of Greek, which to Athenian ears would have sounded rural or countrified, thus giving the Macedonians a reputation for being rough country cousins. The man who turned them into a force to be reckoned with was Philip II, who came to the throne in 359 BC. In 338 BC, he marched into Greece and defeated a combined army of Athenians and Thebans at the Battle of Chaironeia. The following year In a surprise about-turn, Athens now allied itself with Sparta 479 BC 477 BC 461 BC 432 BC BC 429 BC The Greeks pay back their defeat at the hands of Xerxes by smashing the Persian army of Mardonius at the decisive Battle of Plataea under the Spartan leader Pausanias. The Persian Wars are finally over. Seeking security while building a de facto empire, the Athenians establish a political and military alliance called the Delian League. Many city-states and islands join the new club. New Athenian leader Pericles shifts power from Delos to Athens and sets about building a city with magnificent monuments, using the treasury wealth of the Delian League to fund his massive works. The magnificent Parthenon is substantially completed and becomes an enduring legacy of Pericles and the Delian League. The military might of Sparta runs afoul of the commercial and artistic clout of Athens over an alliance with Corcyra. The spat becomes a full-blown war of attrition, with Athens barricaded and the Peloponnese embargoed. Pericles general, statesman and arguably the architect of the Athenian empire falls victim to the plague sweeping Athens and dies.

19 36 HISTORY Alexander the Great HISTORY Christianity & the Byzantine Empire 37 Alexander s ambition was now to conquer the world Philip called together all the city-states (except Sparta) at Corinth and persuaded them to swear allegiance to Macedonia by promising to campaign against Persia. Philip s ambition to tackle Persia never materialised, for in 336 BC he was assassinated by a Macedonian noble. His son, 20-year-old Alexander, became king. ALEXANDER THE GREAT Philip II s death had been the signal for rebellions throughout the budding empire, but Alexander wasted no time in crushing them, making an example of Thebes by razing it to the ground. After restoring order, he turned his attention to the Persian Empire and marched his army of 40,000 men into Asia Minor in 334 BC. After a few bloody battles with the Persians, most notably at Issus (333 BC), Alexander succeeded in conquering Syria, Palestine and Egypt where he was proclaimed pharaoh and founded the city of Alexandria. He then began hunting down the Persian king, Darius III, defeating his army in 331 BC. Alexander continued east into what is now known as Uzbekistan, Balkh in Afghanistan and northern India. His ambition was now to conquer the world, which he believed ended at the sea beyond India, but his soldiers grew weary and in 324 BC forced him to return to Mesopotamia, where he settled in Babylon. The following year he fell ill suddenly and died, heirless, at the age of 33. His generals swooped like vultures on the empire. When the dust settled, Alexander s empire had fallen apart into three large kingdoms and several smaller states. The three generals with the richest pickings were Ptolemy, founder of the Ptolemaic dynasty in Egypt (capital: Alexandria), which died out when the last of the dynasty, Cleopatra, committed suicide in 30 BC; Seleucus, founder of the Seleucid dynasty, which ruled over Persia and Syria (capital: Antiochia); and Antigonus, who ruled over Asia Minor and whose Antigonid successors would win control over Macedonia proper. Macedonia lost control of the Greek city-states to the south, which banded together into the Aetolian League, centred on Delphi, and the Achaean League, based in the Peloponnese. Athens and Sparta joined neither. ROMAN RULE While Alexander the Great was forging his vast empire in the east, the Romans had been expanding theirs to the west, and now they were keen to start making inroads into Greece. After several inconclusive clashes, they defeated Macedon in 168 BC at the Battle of Pydna. The Achaean League was defeated in 146 BC; the Roman consul Mummius made an example of the rebellious Corinthians by destroying their city. In 86 BC Athens joined an ill-fated rebellion against the Romans in Asia Minor staged by the king of the Black Sea region, Mithridates VI. In retribution, the Roman statesman Sulla invaded Athens, destroyed its walls and took off with its most valuable sculptures. For the next 300 years Greece, as the Roman province of Achaea, experienced an unprecedented period of peace, known as the Pax Romana. The Romans had always venerated Greek art, literature and philosophy, and aristocratic Romans sent their offspring to the many schools in Athens. Indeed, the Romans adopted most aspects of Hellenistic culture, spreading its unifying traditions throughout their empire. The Romans were also the first to refer to the Hellenes as Greeks, which is derived from the word graikos the name of a prehistoric tribe. CHRISTIANITY & THE BYZANTINE EMPIRE The Pax Romana began to crumble in AD 250 when the Goths invaded Greece, the first of a succession of invaders spurred on by the great migrations of the Goths from the middle Balkans. Christianity, in the meantime, had emerged as the country s new religion. St Paul had visited Greece several times in the 1st century AD and made converts in many places. The definitive boost to the spread of Christianity in this part of the world came with the conversion of the Roman emperors and the rise of the Byzantine Empire, which blended Hellenistic culture with Christianity. In AD 324 Emperor Constantine I, a Christian convert, transferred the capital of the empire from Rome to Byzantium, a city on the western shore of the Bosphorus, which was renamed Constantinople (present-day İstanbul). While Rome went into terminal decline, the eastern capital began to grow in wealth and strength. Emperor Theodosius I made Christianity the official religion of Greece in 394 and outlawed the worship of all Greek and Roman gods, now branded as pagan. Athens remained an important cultural centre until 529, when Emperor Justinian forbade the teaching of classical philosophy in favour of Christian theology, then seen as the supreme form of all intellectual endeavour. In 747 the population of the Peloponnese was decimated by an outbreak of bubonic plague that spread from the port of Monemvasia. The Byzantines encouraged an influx of Slavic peoples to repopulate the area, and to this day many villages in the Peloponnese carry names of Slavic origin. THE CRUSADES It is ironic that the demise of the Byzantine Empire was accelerated not by invasions of infidels from the east, nor barbarians from the north, but by fellow Christians from the west the Frankish crusaders. The stated mission of the crusades was to liberate the Holy Land from the Muslims, but in reality they were driven as much by greed as by religious The Romans had always venerated Greek art, literature and philosophy BC 371 BC 362 BC 359 BC 336 BC BC A second war breaks out over the distant colony of Sicily, ending an eight-year truce. The Spartans side with the Sicilians, breaking the Athenian siege there and routing the Athenians. Sparta assumes total dominance. Thebes (Thiva), a small citystate, is now on the ascendancy and under its general Epaminondas takes on the might of Sparta at Leuctra, where the hitherto indomitable Spartans suffer their first land defeat. Nine years of Theban dominance comes to an end at the hands of a Spartan Athenian alliance, which witnesses the death of the Theban leader despite a Theban victory in the Battle at Mantinaea. In the north, the Macedonians are on the rise as King Phi lip seizes the initiative in the power vacuum. He seeks alliances with Sparta and Athens on a promise to wage war again on Persia. Philip s son Alexander assumes leadership of Macedonia following the untimely murder of his father. Within a few years the new king takes up the challenge against Persia laid down by the slain Philip. Alexander sets out to conquer the known world. Thebes was the first victim, followed by the Persians, the Egyptians and finally the peoples of today s central Asia. He dies in 323 BC.

20 38 HISTORY The Ottoman Empire HISTORY Russian Involvement 39 Ottoman power reached its zenith under Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent fervour. The first three crusades passed by without affecting the area, but the leaders of the fourth crusade decided that Constantinople presented richer pickings than Jerusalem and struck a deal with Venice. Constantinople was sacked in 1204 and much of the Byzantine Empire was partitioned into feudal states ruled by self-styled Latin (mostly Frankish or western-germanic) princes. The Venetians, meanwhile, had also secured a foothold in Greece. Over the next few centuries they acquired all the key Greek ports, including the island of Crete, and became the wealthiest and most powerful traders in the Mediterranean. Despite this sorry state of affairs, Byzantium was not yet dead. In 1259 the Byzantine emperor Michael VIII Palaeologos recaptured the Peloponnese and made the city of Mystras his headquarters. Many eminent Byzantine artists, architects, intellectuals and philosophers converged on the city for a final burst of Byzantine creativity. Michael VIII managed to reclaim Constantinople in 1261, but by this time Byzantium was a shadow of its former self. THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE Constantinople was soon facing a much greater threat from the east. The Seljuk Turks, a tribe from central Asia, had first appeared on the eastern fringes of the empire in the middle of the 11th century. They established themselves on the Anatolian plain by defeating a Byzantine army at Manzikert in The threat looked to have been contained, especially when the Seljuks were themselves overrun by the Mongols. By the time Mongol power began to wane, the Seljuks had been supplanted as the dominant Turkish tribe by the Ottomans the followers of Osman, who ruled from 1289 to The Muslim Ottomans began to rapidly expand the areas under their control and by the mid-15th century were harassing the Byzantine Empire on all sides. In 1453 Constantinople fell to the Turks and once more Greece became a battleground, this time fought over by the Turks and Venetians. Eventually, with the exception of the Ionian Islands, Greece became part of the Ottoman Empire. Ottoman power reached its zenith under Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent, who ruled between 1520 and 1566, during which time he expanded his empire through the Balkans and Hungary to the very gates of Vienna. His successor, Selim the Sot, added Cyprus to their dominions in 1570, but his death in 1574 marked the end of serious territorial expansion. Although they captured Crete in 1669 after a 25-year campaign, and briefly threatened Vienna once more in 1683, the ineffectual sultans that followed in the late 16th and 17th centuries saw the empire go into steady decline. Venice expelled the Turks from the Peloponnese in a three-year campaign ( ) that saw Venetian troops advance as far as Athens. The Parthenon was badly damaged when a Venetian cannonball struck GREECE S TURKISH DELIGHTS Will Gourlay Mentioning the architectural legacy of Greece will evoke images of the Parthenon, the Minoan palaces and the monasteries of Athos, but it is a little-known fact that Greece is home to the oldest mosque in Europe. The mosque at Didymotiho ( p321 ) was built by Ottoman Sultan Bayazit I in the late 14th century and is an example of the important Turkish buildings found in Greece. The Turkish occupation was not a happy chapter of Greek history, but the Ottomans left a lasting footprint in the form of bezisteni (bazaars), mosques and palaces from Epiros to Crete, from Thrace to the Dodecanese. During the 20th century Greece put all of its energies into preserving and highlighting the Hellenistic aspects of its history, while the Turkish influence was ignored and Ottoman buildings were left to the ravages of time and inclement weather, or in some cases destroyed. In recent years, however, there have been increasing efforts to preserve Ottoman-era architecture: the Greek Ministry of Culture has invested time and money in restoring Ottoman buildings across Macedonia and Thrace. Meanwhile, the imaret of Mohamed Ali Pasha has been artfully restored by a private owner and now functions as a high-end hotel (see Imaret, p297 ). It is tempting to suggest that such moves are indicative of an increasing self-confidence within Greece and a willingness to accept that the fabric of modern Greece contains strands that are not specifically Hellenic. However, it would seem that grants from the EU and Unesco are a useful lubricant in greasing the wheels of such restoration projects. It has been specialist architects and archaeologists in Greece, rather than the average Greek on the street, who have taken an interest in restoring such places, but the fact remains that these Ottoman-era buildings are another fascinating aspect of the intricate fabric of Greek history and culture. Of course, the intertwined history of the Greek and Turkish people is not just told in bricks and mortar, but also manifests itself in cultural curios, such as the mati (evil eye), karaghiozi (shadow puppets) and tasty traditional dishes too many to mention. But that is, of course, another story Turkish gunpowder stored inside. Turkish rule was restored in 1715, but it never regained its former authority. RUSSIAN INVOLVEMENT Russia s link with Greece goes back to Byzantine times, when the Russians had been converted to Christianity by Byzantine missionaries. When Constantinople fell to the Turks, the metropolitan (head) of the Russian Church declared Moscow the third Rome, the true heir of Christianity, and campaigned for the liberation of its fellow Christians in the south. By the time Catherine the Great became Empress of Russia in 1762, both Venice and the Ottoman Empire were weak. She sent Russian agents to foment rebellion, first in the Peloponnese in 1770 and then in Epiros in Both insurrections were crushed ruthlessly the latter by Ali Pasha, 86 BC AD Roman expansion inevitably includes Greek territory. First defeating Macedonia at Pydna in 168 BC, the Romans ultimately overtake the mainland and establish the Pax Romana. It lasts 300 years. The AD 250 invasion of Greece by the Goths signals the decline of Pax Romana and in 324 the capital of the empire is moved to Constantinople. Christianity is the dominant religion. Christianity is declared the official religion. All pagan worship of Greek and Roman gods is outlawed. Christian theology supplants classical philosophy. Athens cultural influence is dealt a fatal blow when Emperor Justinian outlaws the teaching of classical philosophy in favour of Christian theology, by now regarded as the ultimate form of intellectual endeavour. Constantinople is sacked by marauding Frankish crusaders in a campaign gone awry. Trading religious fervour for self interest, the Crusaders strike a blow that sets Constantinople on the road to a slow demise. Greece becomes a dominion of the Ottoman Turks after they seize control of Constantinople, sounding the death knell for the Byzantine Empire.

21 40 HISTORY The War of Independence HISTORY Birth of the Greek Nation 41 Uprisings broke out almost simultaneously across most of Greece the governor of Ioannina, who proceeded to set up his own power base in defiance of the sultan. Independence Parties In the 1770s and 1780s Catherine forcibly dislodged the Turks from the Black Sea coast and created a number of towns in the region, which she gave Ancient Greek or Byzantine names. She offered Greeks financial incentives and free land to settle the region, and many took up her offer. One of the new towns was called Odessa, and it was there in 1814 that businessmen Athanasios Tsakalof, Emmanuel Xanthos and Nikolaos Skoufas founded the first Greek independence party, the Filiki Eteria (Friendly Society). The message of the society spread quickly and branches opened throughout Greece. The leaders in Odessa believed that armed force was the only effective means of liberation, and made generous financial contributions to the freedom fighters. THE WAR OF INDEPENDENCE Ali Pasha s private rebellion against the sultan in 1820 gave the Greeks the opportunity they had been waiting for. On 25 March 1821, Bishop Germanos of Patra signalled the beginning of the War of Independence when he hoisted the Greek flag at the monastery of Agia Lavra in the Peloponnese. Uprisings broke out almost simultaneously across most of Greece and the occupied islands, with the Greeks making big early gains. The fighting was savage and atrocities were committed on both sides; in the Peloponnese 12,000 Turkish inhabitants were butchered after the capture of the city of Tripolitsa (presentday Tripoli), while the Turks retaliated with massacres in Asia Minor, most notoriously on the island of Chios. The fighting escalated, and within a year the Greeks had captured the fortresses of Monemvasia, Navarino (modern Pylos) and Nafplio in the Peloponnese, and Messolongi, Athens and Thebes. Greek independence was proclaimed at Epidavros on 13 January The struggle, however, was far from over. Leaders who had been united against the Turks now turned against each other and disagreements twice escalated into civil war (1824 and 1825), as a result of regional differences over national governance. The sultan took advantage of this and called in Egyptian reinforcements. By 1827 the Turks had recaptured most of the Peloponnese as well as Messolongi and Athens. The Western powers then intervened and a combined Russian, French and British fleet destroyed the Turkish-Egyptian fleet in the Bay of Navarino in October Sultan Mahmud II defied the odds and proclaimed a holy war, prompting Russia to send troops into the Balkans to engage the Ottoman army. Fighting continued until 1829 when, with Russian troops at the gates of Constantinople, the sultan accepted Greek independence with the Treaty of Adrianople. BIRTH OF THE GREEK NATION The Greeks, meanwhile, had been busy organising the independent state they had proclaimed several years earlier. In April 1827 they elected Ioannis Kapodistrias, a Corfiot who had been the foreign minister of Russian Tsar Alexander I, as their first president. Nafplio, in the Peloponnese, was chosen as the capital. While he was good at enlisting foreign support, his autocratic manner at home was unacceptable to many of the leaders of the War of Independence, particularly the Maniot chieftains who had always been a law unto themselves, and Kapodistrias was assassinated in Amid the ensuing anarchy, Britain, France and Russia again intervened and declared that Greece should become a monarchy. They decided that the throne should be given to a non-greek so as not to favour one Greek faction, and selected 17-year-old Prince Otto of Bavaria, who arrived in Nafplio in January The new kingdom (established by the London Convention of 1832) consisted of the Peloponnese, Sterea Ellada, the Cyclades and the Sporades. King Otto (as his name became) got up the noses of the Greek people from the moment he set foot on their land. He arrived with a bunch of upper-class Bavarian cronies, to whom he gave the most prestigious official posts, and he was just as autocratic as Kapodistrias. Otto moved the capital to Athens in Patience with his rule ran out in 1843, when the War of Independence leaders led demonstrations in the capital, calling for a constitution. Otto mustered up a National Assembly, which drafted a constitution calling for parliamentary government, consisting of a lower house and a senate. Otto s cronies were whisked out of power and replaced by War of Independence freedom fighters. THE GREAT IDEA By the end of the 1850s, most of the stalwarts from the War of Independence had been replaced by a new breed of university graduates (Athens University had been founded in 1837). In 1862 they staged a bloodless revolution and deposed Otto. They weren t quite able to set their own agenda, however, because in the same year Britain returned the Ionian Islands (a British protectorate since 1815) to Greece, and amid the general euphoria the British were able to ease young Prince William of Denmark onto the throne. He became King George I and the Greek monarchy has retained its Danish links ever since. His 50-year reign brought stability to the troubled country, beginning with a new constitution in 1864 that established the power of democratically elected representatives. An uprising in Crete against Turkish rule was suppressed by the sultan in , but in 1881 Greece acquired Thessaly and part of Epiros as the result of another Russo-Turkish war. And for many, the staging of the first modern Olympic Games in Athens in 1896 marked a coming of age for the Greek nation. the first modern Olympic Games in Athens in 1896 marked a coming of age for the Greek nation The Turks are expelled from the Peloponnese by the Venetians in a campaign that sees Venetian troops advance as far as Athens. A freak incident sees the Parthenon badly damaged when a Venetian cannonball strikes Turkish gunpowder stored inside. Seeking to recompense the Byzantine Greeks loss of Constantinople, Catherine the Great of Russia encourages dissent in the Ottomans colonies of the Peloponnese and Epiros. A chink in the Ottoman s armour is achieved with the establishment of a Hellenic Independence party known as the Filiki Eteria (Friendly Society). Its influence spreads throughout Greece. The chink becomes a vast chasm when the movement for independence is officially launched on 25 March This is Greece s national day and is celebrated each year with much fanfare. After less than a year s campaigning, independence is declared at Epidavros on 13 January 1822 but fighting continues for another seven years. The Ottomans capitulate and the Treaty of Adrianople is born.

22 42 HISTORY The Balkan Wars HISTORY The Republic of Greek troops served with distinction on the Allied side In 1897 there was another uprising in Crete, and the hot-headed Prime Minister Theodoros Deligiannis responded by declaring war on Turkey. A Greek attempt to invade Turkey in the north proved disastrous it was only through the intervention of the great powers that the Turkish army was prevented from taking Athens. Crete was placed under international administration. The day-to-day government of the island was gradually handed over to Greeks, and in 1905 the president of the Cretan assembly, Eleftherios Venizelos, announced Crete s union (enosis) with Greece, although this was not recognised by international law until Venizelos went on to become prime minister of Greece in 1910 and was the country s leading politician until his republican sympathies brought about his downfall in THE BALKAN WARS Although the Ottoman Empire was in its death throes at the beginning of the 20th century, it was still clinging onto Macedonia. This was a prize sought by the newly formed Balkan countries of Serbia and Bulgaria, as well as by Greece, and led to the outbreak of the Balkan Wars. The first, in 1912, pitted all three against the Turks; the second, in 1913, pitted Serbia and Greece against Bulgaria. The outcome was the Treaty of Bucharest (August 1913), which greatly expanded Greek territory by adding to it the southern part of Macedonia, part of Thrace, another chunk of Epiros, and the Northeastern Aegean Islands, as well as recognising the union with Crete. In March 1913 King George was assassinated by a lunatic and his son Constantine became king. WWI & SMYRNA King Constantine, who was married to the sister of the German emperor, insisted that Greece remain neutral when WWI broke out in August As the war dragged on, the Allies (Britain, France and Russia) put increasing pressure on Greece to join forces with them against Germany and Turkey, promising land in Asia Minor in return. Prime Minister Venizelos favoured the Allied cause, placing him at loggerheads with the king, who finally left Greece in June 1917 and was replaced by his second-born son, Alexander, who was more amenable to the Allies. Greek troops served with distinction on the Allied side, but when the war ended in 1918 the promised land in Asia Minor was not forthcoming. Venizelos took matters into his own hands and, with Allied acquiescence, landed troops in Smyrna (present-day İzmir) in May 1919, under the guise of protecting the half a million Greeks living in the city. With a firm hold in Asia Minor, Venizelos ordered his troops onto the offensive again in October By September 1921 the Greeks had advanced as far as Ankara, where they were halted by Turkish forces commanded by Mustafa Kemal (later to become Atatürk). Kemal routed the Greeks with a massive offensive the following spring. Smyrna fell and many of the Greek inhabitants were massacred. Mustafa Kemal was now a Turkish national hero, the sultanate was abolished and Turkey became a republic under his rule. The outcome of these hostilities was the Treaty of Lausanne in July This gave eastern Thrace and the islands of Imvros and Tenedos to Turkey, while the Italians kept the Dodecanese (which they had temporarily acquired in 1912 and would hold until 1947). The treaty also called for a population exchange between Greece and Turkey to prevent any future disputes. Almost 1.5 million Greeks left Turkey and almost 400,000 Turks left Greece. The exchange put a tremendous strain on the Greek economy and caused great hardship for the individuals concerned. Many Greeks abandoned a privileged life in Asia Minor for one of extreme poverty in Greek shantytowns in Athens. THE REPUBLIC OF The arrival of the Greek refugees from Turkey coincided with, and compounded, a period of political instability unprecedented even by Greek standards. In October 1920 King Alexander died from a monkey bite and his father Constantine was restored to the throne. Constantine identified himself too closely with the war against Turkey and abdicated again after the fall of Smyrna. He was replaced by his first son, George II, who was no match for the group of army officers who seized power after the war. A republic was proclaimed in March 1924 amid a series of coups and counter-coups. A measure of stability was attained with Venizelos return to power in He pursued a policy of economic and educational reform, but progress was inhibited by the Great Depression. His antiroyalist Liberal Party began to face a growing challenge from the monarchist Popular Party, culminating in defeat at the polls in March The new government was preparing for the restoration of the monarchy when Venizelos and his supporters staged an unsuccessful coup in March Venizelos was exiled to Paris, where he died a year later. In November 1935 King George II was restored to the throne by a rigged plebiscite and he installed the right-wing General Ioannis Metaxas as prime minister. Nine months later, Metaxas assumed dictatorial powers with the king s consent, under the pretext of preventing a communist-inspired republican coup. WWII Metaxas grandiose vision was to create a Third Greek Civilisation, based on its glorious ancient and Byzantine past, but what he actually created was more like a Greek version of the Third Reich. He exiled or imprisoned opponents, banned trade unions and the KKE (Kommounistiko Komma Elladas, the Greek Communist Party), imposed press censorship, and created a secret po- Venizelos pursued a policy of economic and educational reform Ioannis Kapodistrias is appointed prime minister of a fledgling government with its capital in the Peloponnesian town of Nafplio. Discontent ensues and Kapodistrias is assassinated. The powers of the Entente (Britain, France and Russia) decree that Greece should be a monarchy and dispatch Prince Otto of Bavaria to Greece to be the first appointed monarch in modern Greece. Monarchy takes a nose dive when King Otto convenes a constitutionally elected parliament made up of War of Independence freedom fighters. King Otto is deposed in a bloodless coup, yet the British manage to engineer the ascension to the Greek throne of Danish Prince William. Greece expands northwards with the acquisition of Thessaly and Epiros among its territories. This is an indirect result of hostilities between Russia and Turkey. Greece and Serbia initially side with Bulgaria against Turkey over the Slav territory of Macedonia. Then Greece and Serbia fight for the same territory against Bulgaria. Greece s territory expands.

23 44 HISTORY Civil War HISTORY Reconstruction & the Cyprus Issue 45 The civilian population suffered appallingly during the occupation lice force and fascist-style youth movement. Metaxas is best known, however, for his reply of ohi (no) to Mussolini s request to allow Italians to traverse Greece at the beginning of WWII, thus maintaining Greece s policy of strict neutrality. The Italians invaded Greece, but were driven back into Albania. A prerequisite of Hitler s plan to invade the Soviet Union was a secure southern flank in the Balkans. The British, realising this, asked Metaxas if they could land troops in Greece. He gave the same reply as he had given the Italians, but then died suddenly in January The king replaced him with the more timid Alexandros Koryzis, who agreed to British forces landing in Greece. He committed suicide when German troops invaded Greece on 6 April The defending Greek, British, Australian and New Zealand troops were seriously outnumbered, and the whole country was under Nazi occupation within a month. The civilian population suffered appallingly during the occupation, many dying of starvation. The Nazis rounded up more than half the Jewish population and transported them to death camps. Numerous resistance movements sprang up. The dominant three were ELAS (Ellinikos Laïkos Apeleftherotikos Stratos), EAM (Ethnikon Apeleftherotikon Metopon) and the EDES (Ethnikos Dimokratikos Ellinikos Syndesmos). Although ELAS was founded by communists, not all of its members were left wing, whereas EAM consisted of Stalinist KKE members who had lived in Moscow in the 1930s and harboured ambitions of establishing a postwar communist Greece. EDES consisted of right-wing and monarchist resistance fighters. These groups fought one another with as much venom as they fought the Germans. The Germans were pushed out of Greece in October 1944, but the communist and monarchist resistance groups continued to fight one another. CIVIL WAR On 3 December 1944 the police fired on a communist demonstration in Syntagma Square in Athens. The ensuing six weeks of fighting between the left and the right, known as the Dekemvriana (events of December), were the first round of the Greek Civil War, and only the intervention of British troops prevented an ELAS-EAM victory. An election held in March 1946, and boycotted by the communists, was won by the royalists, and a rigged plebiscite put George II back on the throne. In October the left-wing Democratic Army of Greece (DSE) was formed to resume the fight against the monarchy and its British supporters. Under the leadership of Markos Vafiadis, the DSE swiftly occupied a large swathe of land along Greece s northern border with Albania and Yugoslavia. By 1947 the US had replaced Britain as Greece s minder and the civil war had developed into a setting for the new Cold War. Communism was declared illegal and the government introduced its notorious Certificate of Political Reliability, which remained valid until 1962 and without which Greeks couldn t vote and found it almost impossible to get work. US aid did little to improve the situation on the ground. The DSE continued to be supplied from the north (by Yugoslavia, Bulgaria and indirectly by the Soviets through the Balkan states), and by the end of 1947 large chunks of the mainland were under its control, as well as parts of the islands of Crete, Chios and Lesvos. It was unable, though, to capture the major town it needed as a base for a rival government. The tide began to turn the government s way early in 1949 when the DSE was forced out of the Peloponnese by the central government forces, but the fighting dragged on in the mountains of Epiros until October 1949, when Yugoslavia fell out with the Soviet Union and cut the DSE s supply lines. The war left the country in an almighty mess, both politically and economically. More Greeks had been killed in three years of bitter civil war than in WWII, and a quarter of a million people were homeless. The sense of despair became the trigger for a mass exodus. Almost a million Greeks headed off in search of a better life elsewhere, primarily to countries like Australia, Canada and the USA. Villages whole islands even were abandoned as people gambled on a new start in cities like Melbourne, New York and Chicago. While some have drifted back, most have stayed away. RECONSTRUCTION & THE CYPRUS ISSUE After a series of unworkable coalitions, the electoral system was changed to majority voting in 1952 which excluded the communists from future governments. The next election was a victory for the right-wing Ellinikos Synagermos (Greek Rally) party, led by General Papagos, who had been a field marshal during the civil war. General Papagos remained in power until his death in 1955, when he was replaced by Konstandinos Karamanlis. Greece joined NATO in 1952 and in 1953 the US was granted the right to operate sovereign bases. Intent on maintaining a right-wing government, the US gave generous aid and even more generous military support. Cyprus took centre stage in Greece s foreign affairs from 1961 and has remained close to it to this day. Since the 1930s Greek Cypriots (four-fifths of the island s population) had demanded union with Greece, while Turkey had maintained its claim to the island ever since it became a British protectorate in 1878 (it became a British crown colony in 1925). Greek public opinion was overwhelmingly in favour of union, a notion that was strongly opposed by Britain and the US on strategic grounds. In 1956 the right-wing Greek Cypriot EOKA (National Organisation of Cypriot Freedom Fighters) took up arms against the British. In 1959 after much hard bargaining, Britain, Greece and Turkey finally agreed on a compromise solution whereby Cyprus would become an independent republic the following August, with Greek Cypriot Archbishop Makarios as president and a Turk, Faisal Kükük, as vice president. The changes did little to appease either side. EOKA resolved to keep fighting, while Turkish Cypriots clamoured for partition of the island. The sense of despair became the trigger for a mass exodus The outbreak of WWI sees Greece initially neutral but eventually siding with the Western allies against Germany and Turkey on the promise of land in Asia Minor. With no redeemed land in sight Greece embarks on the Great Idea : a military campaign to liberate former Hellenic lands in Asia Minor. It ends in abject failure. A return to stability is countered by the Great Depression. Monarchists and Parliamentarians under Prime Minister Venizelos tussle for control of the country. The monarchy is restored under suspicious circumstances. Right-wing General Ioannis Metaxas assumes the role of prime minister while introducing dictatorial measures of governance. Metaxas famously rebuffs the Italian request to traverse Greece at the beginning of WWII. The Italians engage Greek forces and are driven back into Albania. Germany invades and occupies Greece. Monarchists, republicans and communists form resistance groups that, despite infighting, drive out the Germans after three years.

24 46 HISTORY The Colonels Coup HISTORY The Socialist 1980s 47 For an insight into the 1967 colonels coup read Andreas Papandreou s gripping account in Democracy at Gunpoint. Back in Greece, Georgos Papandreou, a former Venizelos supporter, founded the broadly based EK (Centre Union) in 1958, but elections in 1961 returned the ERE (National Radical Union), Karamanlis new name for Greek Rally, to power for the third time in succession. Papandreou accused the ERE of ballot rigging, and the political turmoil that followed culminated in the murder, in May 1963, of Grigorios Lambrakis, the deputy of the communist EDA (Union of the Democratic Left). All this proved too much for Karamanlis, who resigned and left the country. The EK finally came to power in February 1964 and Papandreou wasted no time in implementing a series of radical changes. He freed political prisoners and allowed exiles to come back to Greece, reduced income tax and the defence budget, and increased spending on social services and education. THE COLONELS COUP The political right in Greece was rattled by Papandreou s tolerance of the left, and a group of army colonels led by Georgos Papadopoulos and Stylianos Pattakos staged a coup on 21 April King Constantine tried an unsuccessful counter-coup in December, after which he fled the country. A military junta was established with Papadopoulos as prime minister. The colonels imposed martial law, abolished all political parties, banned trade unions, imposed censorship and imprisoned, tortured and exiled thousands of Greeks who opposed them. In June 1972 Papadopoulos declared Greece a republic and appointed himself president. In November 1973 students began a sit-in at Athens Polytechnic in protest against the junta. On 17 November tanks stormed the building, injuring many and killing at least 20. On 25 November Papadopoulos was deposed by the thuggish Brigadier Ioannidis, head of the military security police. In July 1974, desperate for a foreign policy success to bolster the regime s standing, Ioannidis hatched a wild scheme to assassinate President Makarios and unite Cyprus with Greece. The scheme went disastrously wrong after Maka rios got wind of the plan and escaped. The junta installed Nikos Sampson, a former EOKA leader, as president and Turkey reacted by invading the island. The junta quickly removed Sampson and threw in the towel, but the Turks continued to advance until they occupied the northern third of the island, forcing almost 200,000 Greek Cypriots to flee their homes for the safety of the south. AFTER THE COLONELS The army now called Karamanlis back from Paris and his New Democracy (ND) party scored a big win at elections held in November The ban on communist parties was then lifted, Andreas Papandreou (son of Georgos) formed PASOK (the Panhellenic Socialist Union) and a plebiscite voted 69% against the restoration of the monarchy. New Democracy won again in 1977, but Karamanlis personal popularity began to decline. One of his biggest achievements was to engineer Greece s entry into the European Community (now the European Union). On 1 January 1981 Greece became the 10th member of the EC. THE SOCIALIST 1980s Andreas Papandreou s PASOK party won the election of October 1981 with 48% of the vote, giving Greece its first socialist government. PASOK came to power with an ambitious social programme and a promise to close US air bases and withdraw from NATO. After seven years in government, these promises remained unfulfilled (although the US military presence was reduced); unemployment was high and reforms in education and welfare had been limited. Women s issues fared better, though: the dowry system was abolished, abortion legalised, and civil marriage and divorce were implemented. The crunch came in 1988 when Papandreou s love affair with air hostess Dimitra Liani (whom he subsequently married) hit the headlines, and PASOK became embroiled in a financial scandal involving the Bank of Crete. In July 1989 an unlikely coalition of conservatives and communists took over to implement a katharsis (campaign of purification) to investigate the scandal. In September it ruled that Papandreou and four of his ministers be tried for embezzlement, telephone tapping and illegal grain sales. Papandreou s trial ended in January 1992 with his acquittal on all counts. THE 1990s An election in 1990 brought the ND back to power with Konstandinos Mitsotakis as prime minister. Intent on redressing the country s economic problems high inflation and high government spending the government imposed austerity measures, including a wage freeze for civil servants and steep increases in public-utility costs and basic services. By late 1992, corruption allegations were being made against the government and it was claimed that Cretan-born Mitsotakis had a secret collection of Minoan art. Allegations of government telephone tapping followed, and by mid-1993 Mitsotakis supporters began to cut their losses, abandoning the ND for the new Political Spring party. The ND lost its parliamentary majority and an early election was held in October, which returned Andreas Papandreou s PASOK party with a handsome majority. Papandreou s final spell at the helm was dominated by speculation about his health. He was finally forced to step down in early 1996 and his death on 26 June marked the end of an era in Greek politics. Papandreou s departure produced a dramatic change of direction for PASOK, with the party abandoning his left-leaning politics and electing experienced economist and lawyer Costas Simitis as the new prime minister. On 1 January 1981 Greece became the 10th member of the EC The end of WWII sees Greece descend into civil war, pitching Republicans against Communists. The monarchy is restored in Many Greeks migrate in search of a better life. Cyprus is declared an independent State amid pleas for union with Greece from Greeks and Greek Cypriots alike. Turkey maintains claims of sovereignty over the island. Right and left continue to bicker, provoking a right-wing military coup of army generals who impose martial law. Civil rights are abolished. Tanks storm the Athens Polytechnic in a bid to quash a student uprising. A botched plan to unite Cyprus with Greece results in the fall of the military junta and the invasion of Cyprus by Turkish troops, paradoxically a catalyst for the restoration of parliamentary democracy in Greece. Greece joins the European Union, effectively removing protective trade barriers and opening up the Greek economy to the wider world for the first time. Boosted by EU cohesion funds the economy grows smartly. Greece acquires its first elected socialist government under the leadership of Andreas Papandreou. The honeymoon lasts nine years. The Conservatives ultimately reassume power.

25 48 HISTORY The New Millennium a rising standard of living was counterbalanced to some degree by a rising cost of living On the strength of his reputation as the Mr Clean of Greek politics, Simitis romped to a comfortable majority at a snap poll called in October THE NEW MILLENNIUM With the turn of the millennium the Simitis government focused almost exclusively on the push for further integration with Europe. This meant, in general terms, more tax reform and austerity measures. His success in the face of constant protest nonetheless earned Simitis a mandate for another four years in April The goal of admission to the euro club was achieved at the beginning of 2001 and Greece adopted the euro as its currency in March In April 2004 the Greek populace, perhaps tired of a long run of socialist policies, turned once more to the right and elected New Democracy leader Konstandinos Karamanlis as prime minister. This may have been a blessing in disguise for the socialists as they had been chiefly responsible for the preparation of the then-upcoming 2004 Olympic Games, which had for some time been dogged by delays and technical problems. Before the staging of the Olympic Games, Greece s sporting prowess had an unexpected shot in the arm when, against all odds, it won the European Football Championship (Euro 2004) in Portugal, giving Greeks the world over an enormous boost of pride. As it happened the August Olympic Games were, by all accounts, a resounding success and the Greeks put on a well-organised if poorly attended summer spectacle. The cost of the 2004 Olympics will inevitably take many years to pay off, as the eventual cost of the games far exceeded the original budget. Further national kudos was gleaned when Greece again against the odds won the 2005 Eurovision Song Contest, with an English song sung by a Swedish-Greek diva called Elena Paparizou. Greeks the world over were again ecstatic. Greece s relations with its neighbours particularly Turkey have become perceptibly warmer. Konstandinos Karamanlis made particular efforts to chip away at the occasional frost with Greece s eastern neighbour and the efforts seem to have paid off, with little to report on the brinkmanship front a trend that all too often in the past had caused sabres to be rattled between the two military forces. Greece by 2005 was a developed yet still-maturing EU nation with a rising standard of living that was counterbalanced to some degree by a rising cost of living. A consumer credit squeeze began to take its toll as more and more middle- to low-income earners succumbed to a ballooning credit debt. Car and even house repossessions became common, a stark contrast to previous years in which Greeks had traditionally shunned credit. Tourism grew unabated despite rising costs, and in the long hot summer of 2007, forest fires throughout the western Peloponnese, Epiros and Evia caused untold damage to the nation s flora and fauna Greece successfully hosts the 28th Summer Olympic Games amid much muffled rumour that the country cannot pull it off. Greece wins the European football championship. Vast forest fires devastate much of the western Peloponnese as well as parts of Evia and Epiros, causing Greece s worst ecological disaster in decades. General elections are held in September and the conservative government of Konstandinos Karamanlis is returned to power for a second consecutive term.

26 49 A Who s Who of the A n c i e n t G r e e k P a n t h e o n Richard Waters Ancient Greece revolved around a careful worship of 12 central gods and goddesses. A visitor to Greece 2500 years later should not neglect a nod to them; picture Poseidon and his pet Kraken lurking in the navy deeps of the Aegean, sniff the pine-scented forests and listen for Pan s footfalls between the cicada song. So representative was the Olympian pantheon in its human aspect the wanton lustfulness of Zeus, the boozy revelry of Dionysos that the Greek gods were to survive even the invasion of the Romans who were happy to plunder and rename them for their own worship. Below is the pecking order of the deities (with equivalent Roman names). ZEUS (JUPITER) Heavyweight champ of Mt Olympus, lord of the skies and master of disguise in pursuit of mortal maidens. Wardrobe includes shower of gold, bull, eagle and swan. POSEIDON (NEPTUNE) God of the seas, master of the mists and younger brother of Zeus. He dwelt in a glittering underwater palace. HERA (JUNO) Protector of women and family, the queen of heaven is also the embattled wife of Zeus. She was the prototype of the jealous, domineering wife. HADES (PLUTO) God of death, he ruled the underworld, bringing in newly dead with the help of his skeletal ferryman, Charon. Serious offenders were sent for torture in Tartarus, while heroes enjoyed eternal R&R in the Elysian Fields. ATHENA (MINERVA) Goddess of wisdom, war, science and Guardian of Athens. The antithesis of Ares (see p50 ), Athena was deliberate and where possible, diplomatic in the art of war. Heracles, Jason (see p250 ) and Perseus all benefited from her patronage. APHRODITE (VENUS) Goddess of love and beauty. The curvy lady of the shell was said to have been born whole on the waves. When she wasn t cuckolding her unfortunate husband, Hephaestus, she and her cherubic son Eros (Cupid) were enflaming hearts and causing trouble (cue the Trojan War). APOLLO (PHOEBUS) God of music, the arts and fortune-telling, Apollo was also the god of light and an expert shot with a bow and arrow. It was his steady hand which guided Paris arrow towards Achilles only weak spot his heel thus killing him. Ancient Greece revolved around a careful worship of 12 central gods and goddesses

27 50 THE MYTHS, THE MYTHS! Heracles (Hercules) THE MYTHS, THE MYTHS! Perseus 51 Some of the greatest stories are to be found in the Greek myths ARTEMIS (DIANA) The goddess of the hunt and twin sister of Apollo was, ironically, patron saint of wild animals. By turns spiteful and magnanimous, she was closely associated with the sinister Hecate, patroness of witches. ARES (MARS) God of war. Zeus least favourite of his progeny. Not surprisingly, Ares was worshipped by the bellicose Spartans and may today have felt at home among soccer hooligans. HERMES (MERCURY) Messenger of the gods, patron saint of travellers, the handsome one with a winged hat and sandals. He was always on hand to smooth over the affairs of Zeus, his father. HEPHAESTUS (VULCAN) God of craftsmanship, metallurgy and fire, this deformed and oft derided son of Zeus made the world s first woman of clay, Pandora, as a punishment for man. Inside that box of hers were the evils of mankind. HESTIA (VESTA) Goddess of the hearth, she protected state fires in city halls from where citizens of Greece could light their brands. She remained unmarried, inviolate. THE MYTHS, THE MYTHS! Some of the greatest stories are to be found in the Greek myths. Confound fellow travellers with your classical erudition using our whistle-stop tour! HERACLES (HERCULES) The most celebrated, endearing hero of ancient Greece. The bearded one was set 12 labours of penitence for mistakenly killing his family (Hera blinded him with madness). These included slaying the Nemean Lion and the Lernian Hydra (see opposite ); capturing the Ceryneian Hind and the Erymanthian Boar; cleaning the Augean Stables in one day; slaying the Stymphalian Birds; capturing the Cretan Bull; stealing the man-eating Mares of Diomedes; obtaining the Girdle of Hippolyta and the oxen of Geryon; stealing the Apples of the Hesperides; and capturing Cerberus (see opposite ). THESEUS The Athenian hero volunteered himself as a one of seven men and maidens in the annual sacrifice to the Minotaur, the crazed half-bull half-man offspring of King Minos of Crete (see also opposite ). Once inside its forbidding labyrinth (from which none had returned) Theseus, aided by Princess Ariadne (who had a crush on him courtesy of Aphrodite s dart) loosened a spool of thread to find his way out once he d killed the monster. ICARUS Along with Deadalus (his father and a brilliant inventor), Icarus flew off the cliffs of Crete pursued by King Minos and his troops. Using wings made of feathers and wax, his father instructed him to fly away from the midday sun. Boys will be boys, Icarus thinks he s Jonathan Livingston Seagull glue melts, feathers separate, bird-boy drowns. And the moral is: listen to your father. TOP FIVE MYTHICAL CREATURES Medusa : She of the bad hair day, punished by the gods for her inflated vanity. Even dead, her blood is lethal. Cyclops: One-eyed giant. Odysseus and his crew were trapped in the cave of one such cyclops, Polyphemus. Cerberus : The three-headed dog of hell, he guards the entrance to the underworld under his watch no-one gets in or out. Minotaur : This half-man half-bull mutant leads a life of existential angst in the abysmal labyrinth, tempered only by the occasional morsel of human flesh. Hydra : Cut one of its nine heads off and another two will grow in its place. Heracles solved the problem by cauterizing each stump with his burning brand. PERSEUS Perseus impossible task was to kill the gorgon, Medusa (see above ). With a head of snakes she could turn a man to stone with a single glance. Armed with an invisibility cap and a pair of flying sandals from Hermes, Perseus used his reflective shield to avoid Medusa s stare. Having cut off her head and secreted it in a bag, it was shortly unsheathed to save Andromeda, a princess bound to a rock in her final moments before being sacrificed to a sea monster. Medusa turns it to stone, Perseus gets the girl. OEDIPUS You can run but you can t hide having been abandoned at birth, Oedipus learned from the Delphic oracle that he would one day slay his father and marry his mother. On the journey back to his birthplace, Thiva (Thebes), he killed a rude stranger and then discovered the city was plagued by a murderous Sphinx (a winged lion with a woman s head). The creature gave unsuspecting travellers and citizens a riddle; if they couldn t answer it they were dashed on the rocks. Oedipus succeeded in solving the riddle, felled the Sphinx and so gained the queen of Thiva s hand in marriage. On discovering the stranger he d killed was his father and that his new wife was in fact his mother, Oedipus ripped out his eyes and exiled himself.

28 52 THE CULTURE The Good Life 53 Greeks are the biggest smokers in the EU: 42% of Greeks over 14 are heavy smokers and women smoke as much as men. Smoking is banned in public areas and on public transport but in restaurants it s widespread. T h e C u l t u r e THE GREEK PSYCHE Greeks have long lived in the shadow of their ancient ancestors illustrious cultural and artistic legacy. If history is a country s burden, then the baggage of centuries of foreign occupation and colonisation, war, political turmoil, isolation, poverty and mass emigration also weighs heavily on the Greek psyche. The exotic 1960s image of Greece as a nation of carefree pleasureseeking Zorbas may have reflected their resilience and spirit, but not the complexity of the Greek character. The Greeks are undeniably passionate, fiercely independent and proud of their heritage. While their ancestry can give them a smug sense of cultural superiority, they are well aware of their present-day underdog status in the new Europe and are more firmly focused on building a future. Since they came hurtling into the EU in 1981 as the smallest and poorest nation on the block, Greeks have been struggling to catch up with the radical, fast-tracked social changes, modernisation and economic reforms that are sweeping the country. The resounding success of the Athens 2004 Olympic Games was a major turning-point in changing the perception of Greece as a European backwater, while Greece s euphoric European Cup football triumph that same year also boosted morale and national pride. Greece s first Eurovision Song Contest win, in 2005, proved another confidence booster. Real freedom and self-determination has only been a recent phenomenon but these days the resilience of Greek culture and traditions are being tested by globalisation and market forces. The current generation of Greeks is dealing with a massive generational and technological divide; multilingual children playing games on their mobile phones while their illiterate grandfathers still get around on a mule. In the major shift from a largely poor, agrarian existence to increasingly sophisticated urban dwellers, Greeks are also delicately balancing cultural and religious mores. The younger generation of Greeks is multilingual, educated, far less insular and increasingly more widely travelled. As Greeks continue to reinvent themselves, the Greek psyche presents some intriguing paradoxes. Greeks have an undeniable zest for life, but aren t into making plans, with spontaneity a refreshing aspect of social life. They like to flaunt their newfound wealth with top brand-name clothing and flashy cars, and they are prone to displays of excess, especially in spending on entertainment. In many ways the chain-smoking, mobile-phone addicted, consumerist Greeks are making up for lost time. Greeks have long enjoyed a reputation as loyal friends and generous hosts. They pride themselves on their filotimo (dignity and sense of honour), and their filoxenia (hospitality, welcome, shelter), which you will find in even the poorest household. Yet this hospitality and generosity seems to extinguish in the public sphere, where surly civil servants show a distinct lack of interest in customer service. Given political stability is a relatively recent phenomenon (since 1975), there is a residual mistrust of authority and little respect for the state; personal freedom and democratic rights are almost sacrosanct and there is an aversion to the Big Brother approach of many over-regulated Western nations. Rules and regulations are routinely ignored or seen as a challenge. Greeks are masters of getting around the system, demonstrating an almost admirable ingenuity and impudence given they live in the most bureaucratic country of the old EU. Corruption is the more serious form of the getting-ahead mentality, with the fakelaki (little envelope of cash) remaining a common way to cut red tape, from jumping the queue for surgery to dealing with the tax office or building permits. Many visitors are indeed surprised to learn there are road regulations at all. Creative and inconsiderate parking is the norm, dangerous overtaking is rife, while you ll see people riding bikes carrying their helmets as they chat on their mobile phones. Patronage features prominently at all levels of society; nepotism is an accepted state of affairs, a by-product of having to rely on personal networks to survive. It s still almost impossible to make any headway with local bureaucracy (or in many cases get a job) without meson, the help of a friend or family member working within the system. Yet there is little sense of collective responsibility in relation to issues like the environment; and the pride Greeks have in their homes rarely extends to public spaces. Greece is both Mediterranean and Balkan and has long straddled east and west, so it s not surprising that Greeks have a very different character to the rest of Europe. Most Greeks are forthright and argumentative. They thrive on news, gossip and political debate and while they will malign their governments and society mercilessly, they are defensive about external criticism. Greeks have a casual approach to timekeeping. They are notoriously late and masters of the last minute, as the Olympics proved. Turning up to an appointment on time is often referred to as being English. It s almost as if they resent the sense of obligation; some speculate that this stems from centuries of answering to foreign masters. Unlike many Western cultures where people avoid eye contact with strangers, Greeks are unashamed about staring and blatantly observing (and commenting on) the comings and goings of people around them. Few subjects are off limits, from your private life and why you don t have children, to how much money you earn or how much you paid for your house or shoes. But they are just as likely to tell you their woes and ailments rather than engage in polite small-talk. Greeks remain very ethnocentric, and anti-americanism is another interesting undercurrent of the Greek psyche. Apart from general resistance to American hegemony, it originates from what many regard as undue US interference in Greek affairs during the civil war ( p44 ), suspected CIA involvement in the colonels coup in 1967, US indifference over Cyprus, and its interventions in the Middle East and the Balkans. Stereotypes about Greek men being mummy s boys are not totally unfounded, while AIDS and the sexual liberation of Greek women have virtually killed off the Greek lover and the kamaki (literally a fishing trident; the term refers to the once widespread practice of fishing for foreign women) that made the Greek islands a magnet for foreign women in the 1970s and 80s à la Shirley Valentine. THE GOOD LIFE The lifestyle of the average Greek has changed beyond all recognition in the last 50 years. The generation gap between grandparents who recall the devastated country that emerged from the civil war in 1949 and their children or grandchildren reflects the drastic economic and social changes the country has undergone. Greeks are visibly wealthier, as the new generation Greeks have their own distinctive body language yes is a swing of the head and no is a curt raising of the head (or eyebrows), often accompanied by a ts clickof-the-tongue sound.

29 54 THE CULTURE People & Society THE CULTURE People & Society 55 WISHING WELL Greetings are one of the endearing features of daily life in Greece. Whether it stems from superstition or an excess of good will, Greeks seem to have a wish for every occasion. They won t just wish you kali orexi (bon apetit), but also kali honepsi (good digestion) and kali xekourasi (good rest) or kali diaskedasi (good entertainment). On the first day of the week it s kali evdomada (good week), each month kalo mina (a good month), while the start of summer brings kalo kalokeri (good summer) and the end of the holidays kalo himona (good winter). When you purchase something it s kaloriziko (good luck) and a new business is greeted with kales doulies (good work) or challenges with kali dynami (good strength) and every possible kalo permutation. Andreas Staikos novel Les Liaisons Culinaires is a mouthwatering erotic account of an Athens love triangle that culminates in saucy food-inspired seduction (complete with recipes). of Athenian yuppies in designer clothes, clutching the newest mobile phones and driving the latest-model cars or four-wheel drives will attest. Greek children are now the fattest in the EU and many teenagers are addicted to internet games. While there are still huge disparities in the overall standard of living and a stark rural-city divide, Greeks enjoy a good quality of life. Greece is one of Europe s friendliest, safest and most relaxed countries. Greeks have a work-to-live attitude to life and pride themselves on their capacity to enjoy life. They are social animals and enjoy a rich communal life, eating out regularly and filling the country s myriad cafés and bars. They travel and socialise in packs, with family or their parea (company of friends). In the evenings, especially in summer, you will see people of all ages out on their volta (evening walk), walking along seafront promenades or through town centres, dressed up and refreshed from their afternoon siesta. Theatres, cinemas, live-music venues and dance clubs seem to thrive and the lively street life in Athens and most major towns is something that strikes most visitors. Another is that children are out late at night. Summer holidays are the highlight of the year, with most people taking off for the islands, beaches or their ancestral villages. The country virtually shuts down during mid-august, when one of the peculiarly Greek social talking points is how many swims you ve had. Greeks are now travelling abroad, reflecting newfound wealth, interest beyond their shores and the high cost of domestic tourism. High levels of home ownership, generational wealth and family support structures go some way to explaining a lifestyle that is out of sync with average incomes Greek wages remain among the lowest in the EU. Another factor must be the huge small-business, black-market economy estimated at up to 30 per cent of the country s GDP. Households have been feeling the financial pinch since the arrival of the euro, however. The use of credit cards, loans and dosis (instalment schemes) has skyrocketed, as have housing prices, while the younger generation are highly dependent on family. Eating out and holidays have been curtailed, and they are always complaining about it, but Greeks still spend a higher percentage of their income on restaurants and holidays than their EU counterparts. PEOPLE & SOCIETY Greece s population exceeded 11.1 million in 2007, with a third of the population (3.7 million) living in the Greater Athens area. Greece is now largely an urban society, with more than two-thirds of the population living in cities and less than 15% living on the islands. However, regional development, decentralisation and the improved lot of many regional communities has stemmed the tide of people moving to Athens (other than new immigrant arrivals). Young people are less likely to leave major regional growth-centres such as Larisa, Iraklio or Ioannina, while people are also escaping overpopulated Athens for the regions. Greece has an ageing population and a declining birth rate, with large families a thing of the past. The main population growth has been the flood of migrants who have arrived since 1991 about one million migrants are estimated to be living in Greece legally, illegally or with indeterminate status. Family Life Greek society remains dominated by the family. It s uncommon for Greek children to move out of home before they are married, unless they are going to university or find work in another city. While this is slowly changing among professionals and people marrying later, low wages are also keeping Greek children at home. Parents strive to provide homes for their children when they get married, with many families building apartments for each child above their own (thus the number of unfinished buildings you see). Extended family plays an important role in daily life, with grandparents often looking after grandchildren while parents work or socialise. The tradeoff is that children look after their elderly parents, rather than consign them to nursing homes. Greeks attach great importance to education, with the previous generation determined to provide their children the opportunities they lacked. English and other languages are widely spoken by the younger generation. Greece has the highest number of students in the EU studying at universities abroad, though many end up overeducated and underemployed. Greeks retain strong regional identities and affiliations, despite the majority having left their ancestral villages for the cities or abroad. Even the country s remotest villages are bustling during holidays, elections and other excuses for family reunions and homecomings. One of the first questions Greeks will ask a stranger is what part of Greece they come from. Multiculturalism Greece has been a largely homogenous society and not so long ago the concept of multiculturalism was tantamount to regional differences. The disparate xenoi (foreigners) living in Greece were mostly the odd Hellenophile and foreign women married to locals, especially on the islands. But with the influx of economic migrants in the past 15 years, Greece is becoming an inadvertently more multicultural society. Bulgarian women look after the elderly in remote villages, Polish kitchen-hands work on the islands, Albanians dominate the manual labour workforce and Chinese businesses are springing up, African hawkers sell fake-designer bags and CDs on the streets and Pakistanis gather for weekend cricket matches in Athens car parks. Greece has compulsory 12-month military service for all males aged 19 to 50. Women are accepted into the Greek army, though they are not obliged to join. DON T WORRY You see men stroking, fiddling and masterfully playing with them everywhere the de-stressing worry beads that are not just an enduring tradition but a fashion statement. There are many theories about the origins of the komboloï one is that Greeks first improvised with Islamic rosary beads to mock their enemy s religious habits; another theory is that they derived from Orthodox monks rosaries. Komboloïa (plural) were traditionally made from amber, but coral, handmade beads, semiprecious stones and synthetic resin are also widely used. Most of the ones you see in souvenir shops are plastic but you can get komboloïa worth more than 10,000 and rare old ones are collector s items.

30 56 THE CULTURE People & Society THE CULTURE People & Society 57 Migration and multiculturalism are posing major challenges for both the community and the state, both of which were ill-prepared for dealing with this inward wave of people (see the boxed text, opposite ). Economic migrants exist on the social fringe, but as they seek Greek citizenship and try to integrate into mainstream society, community tolerance and notions of Greek identity and nationality are also being tested. Albanians make up roughly two-thirds of the migrant population and they have become an economic necessity in the agriculture and construction sectors, and in the menial labour and domestic work that Greeks no longer want to do. Many Albanians have settled with their families all over Greece but remain largely stigmatised, as most Greeks initially reacted with xenophobia and resented their presence, blaming them for every crime committed. Among the new arrivals are more than 150,000 people of Greek descent who repatriated from the former Soviet Union and Balkan states after the fall of communism. IDENTITY CRISIS Author Ioanna Karystiani is one of the polytechnic generation. In the early 1970s the high-profile student activist was jailed for rebelling against Greece s military dictatorship (see p46 ), which sent the tanks storming into the Athens Polytechnic to break up the famous student sit-in, killing at least 20. The watershed moment continues to influence the country s political consciousness. Karystiani became a political cartoonist until she turned to writing later in life, penning several award-winning novels and the screenplay of Brides. Born in Hania to Greek refugees from Asia Minor, she left Crete at 18 to study in Athens, where she lives with her husband, film director Pantelis Voulgaris, and their two children. But she maintains strong ties to Crete, where her family still lives. Karystiani believes Greeks are still adjusting to the radical political, social and economic changes since the 70s, and are undergoing an underlying identity crisis. There has been a dramatic change in the every day life of the Greeks. The things that in other countries they had slowly gained, the house, the TV, the cars, the holidays in Greece it all came together very suddenly. From having nothing they ve gone to having mobile phones and new cars and home cinema. There is a strong tendency to flaunt their newfound wealth and easy money role models predominate. In the fierce rush to become modernised and European, Karystiani believes many regional and cultural characteristics have been extinguished. Everyone has a unique quality imposed by their land, local lore and tradition which feeds the next generation. But many young people did not have time to be baptised in their own land and have been attacked by a foreign way of life through television and the media. Karystiani believes Greece is undergoing a period of transition. She concedes Greeks are a complex people, who had yet to reconcile their relationships with the environment, the provinces, the political sphere or their history. We have a lot of history behind us that we don t know very well and we don t know what to do with, and we have a future that is not entirely clear that we are unable to trust. The modern Greek is confused. They feel guilty about keeping elements of eastern culture which, despite everything, seems sweeter and more communal and is in a hurry to adopt an identity from western culture, which seems cold and individualistic. Greece s immaturity as a nation is evident in the citizen s relationship to the state which, she says, is still a deep wound. Greeks at many times have felt deceived by the state and view it with suspicion and mistrust, she explains. That s why in their obligations to the state they are contradictory because they feel they have been cheated. One of the biggest changes seen in Athens in the past 15 years, she says, is that the city has become much more multicultural. Greece is no longer isolated and protected or living at the edge of international life. THE GREEK DIASPORA Greece was until recently a nation of emigrants, with more than five million people of Greek descent living in 140 countries. The biggest migration waves were in the 15 years before the Balkan Wars, after the 1922 Asia Minor purge and in the postwar aftermath in the 1950s and 1960s. The largest Greek communities abroad include an estimated three million in the US and Canada. Melbourne, Australia, claims to have the third-largest population of Greek-speakers in the world (300,000), after Athens and Thessaloniki. Nostalgia and ties with the home country remain strong, with a significant number of Greeks living abroad or of Greek descent returning for annual holidays or retiring in Greece. They own property and are involved in the country s political and cultural life, while a steady stream of young second- and third-generation Greeks are also repatriating. The Greek state promotes Greek language, culture and religion abroad and funds a world body representing the Greek diaspora. There were also controversial moves to give Greeks living abroad the right to vote in elections. While there is still a long way to go before migrants are accepted into the community, there is recognition that they keep the economy going. Mixed marriages are becoming common, especially in rural areas where eastern-european brides fill the void left by Greek women moving to the cities. Until recently Greece s only recognised ethnic minority were the 300,000 Muslims in western Thrace (mostly ethnic Turks exempt from the 1923 population exchange), who continue to have a difficult time, despite being Greek-born. Very small numbers of Vlach and Sarakatsani shepherds live a seminomadic existence in Epiros, while you will come across Roma (Gypsies) everywhere in Greece, especially in Macedonia, Thrace and Thessaly. Religion & Identity The Orthodox faith is the official and prevailing religion of Greece and a key element of Greek identity, ethnicity and culture. There is a prevailing view that to be Greek is to be Orthodox. While the younger generation aren t generally devout, nor attend church regularly, most observe the rituals and consider their faith part of their identity. Between 94% and 97% of the Greek population belong at least nominally to the Greek Orthodox Church. During consecutive foreign occupations, Greeks maintained a sense of unity through the church, which was the principal upholder of Greek culture, language and traditions. Under Ottoman rule, religion was one of the most important criteria in defining a Greek. The church still exerts significant social, political and economic influence in Greece, which doesn t have the same church-state separation as other Western countries (priests are even paid by the state). Until recently Greece was one of the few European countries where religious affiliation appeared on national identity cards. Non-Orthodox Greeks can still have a hard time joining the civil service or military, civil marriages have only been recognised since the early 1980s and cremation was only recently legalised after much controversy. The Greek year is centred on the saints days and festivals of the church calendar. Namedays (celebrating your namesake saint) are celebrated more than birthdays and baptisms are an important rite. Most people are named after a saint, as are boats, suburbs and train stations. You will notice taxi drivers, motorcyclists and people on public transport making the sign of the cross when they pass a church, and many Greeks will go to a church when they have a problem to light a candle to the relevant

31 58 THE CULTURE People & Society THE CULTURE People & Society 59 THE BIG SPLIT Greece was one of the first places in Europe where Christianity emerged, with St Paul reputedly first preaching the gospel in AD 49 in the Macedonian town of Philippi. He later preached in Athens, Thessaloniki and Corinth. After Constantine the Great officially recognised Christianity in 313 AD (converted by a vision of the Cross), he transferred the capital of the Roman Empire to Byzantium (today s İstanbul) in 330 AD. By the 8th century differences of opinion and increasing rivalry emerged between the pope in Rome and the patriarch of the Hellenised eastern Roman Empire. One dispute was over the wording of the Creed, which stated that the Holy Spirit proceeds from the Father, but Rome added and the Son. Other points of difference included Rome decreeing priests had to be celibate, while Orthodox priests could marry before becoming ordained; and the Orthodox Church forbade wine and oil during Lent. Their differences became irreconcilable, and in the great schism of 1054 the pope and the patriarch went their separate ways as the Orthodox Church (Orthodoxy means right belief ) and Roman Catholic Church. The Greek Orthodox Church is closely related to the Russian Orthodox Church; together they form the third-largest branch of Christianity. saint. There are hundreds of tiny churches dotted around the countryside, predominantly built by individual families dedicated to particular saints. The tiny roadside iconostases or chapels you see everywhere are either shrines to people who died in road accidents or similar dedications to saints. If you wish to look around a church or monastery, you should always dress appropriately. Women should wear skirts that reach below the knees, men should wear long trousers and arms should be covered. While religious freedom is part of the constitution, the only other officially recognised religions in Greece are Judaism and Islam, despite the existence of anything from Greek Jehovah s Witnesses to Scientologists. While there is tolerance of non-orthodox faiths, they do face legal and administrative impediments. With the recent wave of migrants, an estimated 10,000 Muslims are now living in Athens. While many makeshift mosques operate in the city, construction of an official mosque, though approved at the official level (both government and church leadership publicly support it), remains mired in controversy and delays; it was finally expected to open downtown by There are more than 50,000 Catholics, mostly of Genoese or Frankish origin and living in the Cyclades, especially on Syros, where they make up 40% of the population. Recent Polish and Filipino migrants make up the majority of Athens Catholics. Greek Jews number about 5000, with small Jewish communities in Ioannina, Larisa, Halkida and Rhodes (dating back to the Roman era) and Thessaloniki, Kavala and Didymotiho (mostly descendants of 15th-century exiles from Spain and Portugal). In 1941 the Nazis transported 46,000 (90%) of Thessaloniki s Jews to Auschwitz; most never returned. Women in Society Greek women have a curious place in Greek society and the male-female dynamic throws up some interesting paradoxes. Despite the machismo, it is very much a matriarchal society. Men love to give the impression that they rule the roost but, in reality, it s often the women who run the show both at home and in family businesses. While sexual liberation, education and greater participation in the workforce have given women a different sort of power, mother and sex object are still the dominant role-models and stereotypes, which Greek women play on with gusto. Chauvinism and sexism seem to be an entrenched and largely accepted part of the social dynamic. Old attitudes towards the proper role for women have changed dramatically since the 1980s, when dowry laws were abolished, legal equality of the sexes established and divorce made easier. While there are many benefits for mothers in the public sector, Greek women generally do it tough in the male-dominated workplace. Women are significantly underrepresented in the workforce compared to their EU or international counterparts, often earning less than men and struggling up the corporate ladder. There are capable women in prominent positions in business and government, though more often than not they also happen to be the wives or daughters of prominent or wealthy men. Only 14% of seats in parliament are held by women. In provincial towns and villages, women still maintain traditional roles. In the cities and large towns things are much more liberal. On the domestic front, Greek women (at least the older generation) are famously house-proud and take great pride in their culinary skills. It s still relatively rare for men to be involved in housework or cooking and boys are waited on hand and foot. Girls are involved in domestic chores from an early age, though the new generation of Athenian women are more likely to be found in a gym or beauty salon than in the kitchen. Politics & the Media Circus Greeks love their newspapers and politics. You will often see people standing outside periptera (street kiosks) reading the day s juicy headlines from the gallery of daily papers on display. Greece has a disproportionate number of newspapers and TV stations given its population 30 national dailies (including 10 sports dailies) and seven national TV networks. Newspapers, like most Greeks, are openly partisan, with papers representing the gamut of political views from conservative to communist. The line between news and opinion is often blurred, with more reams dedicated to journalists comments and diatribes than straight news coverage. Newspaper readership has, however, dramatically declined since the advent of private TV and radio in Papers and magazines have fought back with gimmicks, competitions, magazine inserts and free DVDs and gifts. With the exception of the more straight-shooting public broadcasters, TV news is highly sensationalist and parochial, dominated by domestic news REVIVING THE ANCIENT GODS Zeus and ancient gods of Mt Olympus (see p49 ) still have some loyal fans in Greece, with a resurgence of interest in the polytheistic religion of their ancestors. In 2007 a fringe revivalgroup flouted a ban and held a ceremony at the Temple of Olympian Zeus in Athens. Dressed in ancient costumes, they recited Morphic hymns and performed ancient rituals in the presence of a high priestess. The event followed a court victory in 2006 for the Ellinis group, which recognised them as a cultural association with a religious goal. They are now fighting to have their offices recognised as a place of worship. All forms of pagan worship were outlawed by the Roman state in the fourth century AD, and were later renounced by the Greek Orthodox Church. The polytheists, who hold pilgrimages to Mt Olympus, number about 2000 (albeit divided) followers, mostly academics, lawyers and other professionals.

32 60 THE CULTURE Arts THE CULTURE Arts 69 For a comprehensive rundown of arts and cultural events and exhibitions around Greece check out The Greek Book Centre reviews the latest Greek books and has author profiles in the Ithaca Online ( journal. and society scandals. Dramatic music, repetitive footage and lots of talking heads (usually shouting at the same time) are a key feature. Given the partisan nature of newspapers and the sensationalist TV news coverage, the country s media-owners play an extremely influential role in shaping public opinion. Media ownership is spread among a handful of major players, while the contentious entangled relationship between media owners, journalists, big business and the government has been coined diaplekomena (intertwined). ARTS Theatre Drama in Greece can be dated back to the contests staged at the Ancient Theatre of Dionysos in Athens during the 6th century BC for the annual Dionysia festival. During one of these competitions, Thespis left the ensemble and took centre stage for a solo performance. This is regarded as the first true dramatic performance thus the term thespian. Aeschylus (c BC) is the so-called father of tragedy ; his bestknown work is the Oresteia trilogy. Sophocles (c BC), regarded as the greatest tragedian, is thought to have written over 100 plays, of which only seven survive. These include Antigone, Electra and his most famous play, Oedipus Rex. Sophocles, whose plays dealt mainly with tales from mythology and had complex plots, won first prize 18 times at the Dionysia festival. Euripides (c BC) was more popular than either Aeschylus or Sophocles because his plots were considered more exciting. He wrote 80 plays, of which 19 are extant (although one, Rhesus, is disputed). His most famous works are Medea, Andromache, Orestes and Bacchae. Aristophanes (c BC) wrote comedies often ribald that dealt with topical issues. His play The Wasps ridicules Athenians who resorted to litigation over trivialities, The Birds pokes fun at Athenian gullibility and Ploutos deals with the unfair distribution of wealth. You can see plays by the ancient Greek playwrights at the Athens and Epidavros festivals ( p130 ), and at various festivals around the country. Drama continues to feature prominently in domestic arts. Athens supports a lively winter theatre scene, with more than 200 theatres presenting anything from Sophocles to Beckett, as well as popular slapstick comedies and political satires. The most distinguished modern Greek playwrights are the father of postwar drama Iakovos Kambanellis, Yiorgos Skourtis and Pavlos Matessis, whose plays have been translated and performed outside Greece. Literature FROM HOMER TO ZORBA The first, and greatest, ancient Greek writer was Homer, author of the Iliad and Odyssey, telling the story of the Trojan War and the subsequent wanderings of Odysseus. Nothing is known of Homer s life; where or when he lived, or whether, as it s alleged, he was blind. The historian Herodotus thought Homer lived in the 9th century BC, and no scholar since has proved or disproved this. Herodotus (5th century BC) was the author of the first historical work about Western civilisation. His highly subjective account of the Persian Wars, however, led some to regard him as the father of lies as well as the father of history. The historian Thucydides (5th century BC) was more objective in his approach, but took a high moral stance. He wrote an account of the Peloponnesian Wars and also the famous Melian (Continued on page 69) (Continued from page 60) Dialogue, which chronicles talks between the Athenians and Melians prior to the Athenian siege of Melos. Pindar (c BC) is regarded as the pre-eminent lyric poet of ancient Greece. He was commissioned to recite his odes at the Olympic Games. The greatest writers of love poetry were Sappho (6th century BC) and Alcaeus (5th century BC), both of whom lived on Lesvos. Sappho s poetic descriptions of her affections for women gave rise to the term lesbian. Dionysios Solomos ( ) and Andreas Kalvos ( ), who were both born on Zakynthos, are regarded as the first modern Greek poets. Solomos work was heavily nationalistic, and his Hymn to Freedom became the Greek national anthem. Other notable literary figures include Alexandros Papadiamantis ( ) from Skyros, and poet Kostis Palamas ( ). The best-known 20th-century poets are George Seferis ( ), who won the 1963 Nobel Prize for literature, and Odysseus Elytis ( ), who won the same prize in The most celebrated novelist of the early 20th century is Nikos Kazantzakis ( ), whose unorthodox religious views created a stir. His novels, all of which have been translated into English, are full of drama and largerthan-life characters, such as the magnificent title character in Alexis Zorbas ( Zorba the Greek) and the tortured Captain Michalis in Freedom and Death, two of his finest works. Another of the great prose writers was Stratis Myrivilis ( ), whose works includes Life in the Tomb, Vasilis Arvanitis and The Mermaid Madonna. CONTEMPORARY WRITERS Greek fiction and nonfiction have boomed in recent years, thanks to a thriving publishing industry. About 7500 new titles are published annually, including 1700 local works of literature. Leading contemporary Greek writers include Thanassis Valtinos, Rhea Galanaki, Ziranna Ziteli and Ersi Sotiropoulou, who wrote the acclaimed 1999 novel Zigzagging Through the Bitter Orange Trees as well as playwright Kostas Mourselas, whose novel Red-Dyed Hair was made into a popular TV series, and Ioanna Karystiani, who wrote the screenplay for Brides. Unfortunately very little contemporary work is translated in English. Writers making small inroads into foreign markets include Vangelis Hatziyiannidis, with his award-winning novel Four Walls, Alexis Stamatis with Bar Flaubert (2000), Apostolos Doxiadis (Uncle Petros and Goldbach s Conjecture; 2000), Petros Markaris, whose crime noir novels delve into the Athens underbelly, and criminologist-cum-children s author Eugene Trivizas. Uncle Petros and Goldbach s Conjecture by Apostolos Doxiadis is an unlikely blend of family drama and mathematic al theory. It tells the story of a mathematical genius attempt to solve a problem that has defied the world s greatest minds. Collected Poems by George Seferis and Selected Poems by Odysseus Elytis are excellent English translations of these Greek poets. LIFE AMONG THE GREEKS Greek characters are brought to life through foreign eyes in several recent books. In North of Ithaka, Greek-American journalist Eleni Gage gives an insightful account of a year in her ancestral village, uncovering the ghosts of civil war and the realities of modern Greek village life while restoring the house of her grandmother, who is immortalised in her father Nicholas Gage s book Eleni. Urban life in modern Athens is examined by Sofka Zinovieff in Eurydice Street, while longtime Greek resident British John Mole s It s All Greek to Me is a humorous memoir of his labour of love restoring an island home on Evia. Rory McLean lives among the Cretans in the amusing Flying With Icarus.

33 70 THE CULTURE Arts THE CULTURE Arts 71 Greek Art and Archaeology by John Griffiths Pedley is a super introduction to the development of Greek art and civilisation. Kedros modern literature translation series includes Dido Sotiriou s Farewell Anatolia and Maro Douka s Fool s God and Innocent and Guilty. Panos Karnezis bypassed the translation issue by writing in English. The Birthday Party follows from his well-received novel The Maze and short stories, Little Infamies. Best-selling author, Soti Triandafyllou, also wrote her latest novel, Poor Margo in English. Fine Arts PAINTING The lack of any comprehensive archaeological record of ancient Greek painting has left art historians to largely rely on the painted decoration of terracotta pots as evidence of the development of this art. There are a few exceptions, such as the famous frescoes unearthed on Santorini and which are now housed in the National Archaeological Museum ( p120 ) in Athens. These works were painted in fresco technique using yellow, blue, red and black pigments, with some details added after the plaster had dried. Stylistically, the frescoes are similar to the paintings of Minoan Crete. Greek painting came into its own during the Byzantine period. Byzantine churches were usually decorated with frescoes on a dark blue background with a bust of Christ in the dome, the four Gospel writers in the pendentives supporting the dome and the Virgin and Child in the apse. They also featured scenes from the life of Christ (Annunciation, Nativity, Baptism, Entry into Jerusalem, Crucifixion and Transfiguration) and figures of the saints. In the later centuries the scenes in churches and icons involved more detailed narratives, including cycles of the life of the Virgin and the miracles of Christ. The Cretan school of icon painting, influenced by the Italian Renaissance and artists fleeing to Crete after the fall of Constantinople, combined technical brilliance and dramatic richness. Painting after the Byzantine period became more secular in nature, with 19th-century Greek painters specialising in portraits, nautical themes and representations of the War of Independence. Major 19th-century painters included Dionysios Tsokos, Andreas Kriezis, Theodoros Vryzakis, Nikiforos Lytras, Konstantinos Volanakis and Nicholas Gyzis. Gyzis paintings created during the time of the fascination with the Great Idea of a new Greek empire are particularly interesting. From the first decades of the 20th century, artists such as Konstantinos Parthenis (one of the greatest modern Greek artists), Konstantinos Kaleas and later the expressionist George Bouzianis were able to use their heritage and at the same time assimilate various developments in modern art. Significant artists of the 30s generation were cubist Nikos Hatzikyriakos-Ghikas, surrealist Nikos Engonopoulos, Yiannis Tsarouhis and Panayiotis Tetsis. Other leading artists include Yannis Moralis, Giorgos Zongolopoulos (with his trademark umbrella sculptures), Dimitris Mytaras, Yannis Tsoklis, abstract artists Yannis Gaitis and Jannis Spyropoulos, Christos Caras and Alekos Fassianos. Many internationally known artists live abroad, including Paris-based Pavlos, known for his distinctive use of paper, and kinetic artist Takis. New York-based artists include neon installation artist Stephen Antonakos and sculptor/painter Chryssa. In the past 25 years modern Greek painting has become a serious collector s pursuit. Lytras 19th-century painting The Naughty Grandchild set a record for a Greek artist when it was sold for more than 1 million at a London auction in Athens has a burgeoning contemporary arts scene, with regular shows by local and international artists at a host of galleries centred mostly on Psyrri and Kolonaki. The National Art Gallery ( p122 ) in Athens and the Rhodes Art Gallery have the most extensive collections of 20th-century art. The annual Art Athina expo showcases contemporary Greek artists; a much-anticipated new Museum of Contemporary Art is being built at the former Fix brewery in Athens; and the capital hosted its inaugural biennial art show in SCULPTURE The sculptures of ancient Greece are works of extraordinary visual power and beauty that hold pride of place in the collections of the great museums of the world. The prehistoric art of Greece has been discovered only recently, most notably the remarkable figurines produced in the Cyclades from the highquality marble of Paros and Naxos in the middle of the 3rd millennium BC. Their primitive and powerful forms have inspired many artists since. Displaying an obvious debt to Egyptian sculpture, the marble sculptures of the Archaic period are true precursors of the famed Greek sculpture of the classical period. The artists of this period moved away from the examples of their Asian predecessors and began to represent figures that were true to nature, rather than flat and stylised. For the first time in history a sculpted shape was made to reproduce the complex mechanism of the human body. Seeking to master the depiction of both the naked body and of drapery, sculptors of the period focused on kouroi (figures of naked youths), with their set symmetrical stance and enigmatic smiles. Many great kouros sculptures and draped female kore can be admired at the National Archaeological Museum ( p120 ) in Athens. The sculptures of the classical period show an obsession with the human figure and with drapery. Unfortunately, little original work from this period survives. Most freestanding classical sculptures described by ancient writers were made of bronze and survive only as marble copies made by the Romans. The quest to attain total naturalism continued in the Hellenistic period; works of this period were animated, almost theatrical, in contrast to their serene Archaic and classical predecessors. These were revered by later artists such as Michelangelo, who was at the forefront of the rediscovery and appreciation of Greek works in the Renaissance. The end of the Hellenistic age signalled the decline of Greek sculpture s pre-eminent position in the art form. The World of the Ancient Greeks (2002), by archaeologists John Camp and Elizabeth Fisher, is a broad and in-depth look at how the Greeks have left their imprint on politics, philosophy, theatre, art, medicine and architecture. EL GRECO One of the geniuses of the Renaissance, El Greco ( The Greek in Spanish), was in fact a Cretan named Dominikos Theotokopoulos. He got a grounding in the traditions of late-byzantine fresco painting during a time of great artistic activity in Crete, following the arrival of painters fleeing Ottoman-held Constantinople. El Greco went to Venice in his early 20s, but came into his own after he moved to Spain in 1577, where his highly emotional style struck a chord with the Spanish. He lived in Toledo until his death in A handful of El Greco s works are in Greece. In Athens you can see Concert of Angels, The Burial of Christ and St Peter at the National Gallery, as well two signed works in the Benaki museum. El Greco s View of Mt Sinai, The Monastery of St Catherine and Baptism of Christ hang in Iraklio s Historical Museum of Crete ( p467 ). The artist will be making it onto the big screen with the forthcoming release of El Greco, an epic 7 million film.

34 72 THE CULTURE Arts THE CULTURE Arts 73 The torch was handed to the Romans, who proved worthy successors. Sculpture in Greece itself never again attained any degree of true innovation. Two of the foremost modern sculptors from Tinos, where marble sculpture endures, were Dimitrios Filippotis and Yannoulis Halepas. Modern Greek and international sculpture can be seen at the National Glyptoteque ( p122 ). POTTERY The painted terracotta pots of ancient Greece, excavated after being buried throughout Greece over millennia, have enabled us to appreciate in small measure the tradition of ancient pictorial art. Practised from the Stone Age on, pottery is one of the most ancient arts. At first vases were built with coils and wads of clay, but the art of throwing on the wheel was introduced in about 2000 BC and was then practised with great skill by Minoan and Mycenaean artists. Minoan pottery is often characterised by a high centre of gravity and beaklike spouts, with flowing designs of spiral or marine and plant motifs. Painted decoration was applied as a white clay slip (a thin paste of clay and water) or one which fired to a greyish black or dull red. The Archaeological Museum in Iraklio (see p466 ) has a wealth of Minoan pots. Mycenaean pottery shapes include a long-stemmed goblet and a globular vase with handles resembling a pair of stirrups. Decorative motifs are similar to those on Minoan pottery but are less fluid. The 10th century BC saw the introduction of the Protogeometric style, with its substantial pots decorated with blackish-brown horizontal lines around the circumference, hatched triangles and compass-drawn concentric circles. This was followed by the new vase shape and more crowded decoration of the Geometric period, painted in a lustrous brown glaze on the light Road to Rembetika: Music surface of the clay, with the same dark glaze used as a wash to cover the of a Greek Sub-Culture: undecorated areas. Occasionally a touch of white was added. By the early Songs of Love, Sorrow and 8th century figures were introduced, marking the introduction of the most Hashish by Gail Holst- fundamental element in the later tradition of classical art the representation of gods, men and animals. Warhaft is a passionate account of this Greek By the 7th century BC Corinth was producing pottery with added white music genre, while Ed and purple-red slip. These pots often featured friezes of lions, goats and swans Emery has translated Elias and a background full of rosettes. In 6th-century Athens, artists used red clay Petropoulos excellent with a high iron content. A thick colloidal slip made from this clay produced Songs of the Underworld: a glossy black surface that contrasted with the red and was enlivened with The Rembetika Tradition. added white and purple-red. Attic pots, famed for their high quality, were exported throughout the Greek empire during this time and today grace the collections of international museums. Reproductions of all these styles constitute a sizable proportion of Greece s pottery production, and they are available at souvenir shops throughout the country. Some contemporary ceramicists are making pots using ancient firing and painting techniques, while Minoan-style pottery is still made in Crete. The island of Sifnos continues its distinctive pottery tradition. You can also find traditional potters in the northern Athenian suburb of Marousi, once one of the big pottery centres of Greece. Music Greece has a strong and enduring musical tradition, dating back to the Cycladic figurines found holding musical instruments resembling harps and flutes from 2000 BC. Ancient Greek musical instruments included the lyre, lute, piktis (pipes), kroupeza (a percussion instrument), kithara (a stringed instrument), aulos (a wind instrument), barbitos (similar to a cello) and the magadio (similar to a harp). RECOMMENDED LISTENING 40 Hronia Tsitsanis Original recordings of the classics of Vasilis Tsitsanis by some of the leading Greek singers. Anthologio A musical journey with Greece s most formidable female singer Haris Alexiou, covering her most memorable hits from 1975 to Auti I Nyhta Menei A double-cd of some of the most memorable songs from the voice of an era, Stelios Kazantzidis. Hatzidakis at the Roman Agora (Manos Hatzidakis) Double-CD compilation spanning his works from 1947 to 1985, or his timeless classical recording To Hamogelo tis Tzokontas. Itane Mia Fora (Nikos Xylouris) A two-cd collection covering a broad range of music from Crete s favourite son. Kakes Sinithies (1998) A stand-out album by contemporary folk rock singer-songwriter Miltiadis Paschalidis. Me Ton Grigori (Grigoris Bithikotsis) An anthology of one of the greatest Greek voices, with songs covering the gamut of Greek music. Mode Plagal III (2001) The third self-titled album by this contemporary jazz-folk fusion band features some distinguished vocalists, including Savina Yiannatou, Eleni Tsaligopoulou, Theodora Tsatsou and Yota Vei. Sta Hamila Kai Sta Psila (2006) The latest CD from one of the more promising contemporary singer-songwriters, Dimitris Zervoudakis. Ta Rembetika An excellent 2-CD compilation of original recordings of rembetika from Greece s national broadcaster, featuring all the foremost exponents of the genre. The Very Best of Mikis Theodorakis A special-edition three-cd set covering the acclaimed composer s music from 1960 to2000. The Very Best of Stavros Xarhakos A good compilation of the composer s work sung by great Greek voices such as Xylouris and Bithikotsis. The ubiquitous six- or eight-stringed bouzouki, the long-necked lutelike instrument associated with contemporary Greek music, is a relative newcomer to the scene. The baglamas is a baby version of the bouzouki used in rembetika (blues songs) while the tzouras is halfway between the two. The plucked strings of the bulbous outi (oud), the strident sound of the Cretan lyra (lyre), the staccato rap of the toumberleki (lap drum), the mandolino (mandolin) and the gaïda (bagpipe) bear witness to a rich range of musical instruments that share many characteristics with instruments all over the Middle East, as do the flat multi-stringed santouri and kanonaki. Every region in Greece has its own musical tradition. Regional folk music is divided into nisiotika (the lighter, more upbeat music of the islands), and the more grounded dimotika of the mainland where the klarino (clarinet) is prominent and lyrics refer to hard times, war and aspects of rural life. The music of Crete, which has a presence in the world-music scene as a genre in its own right, remains the most dynamic traditional form, with a popular local following and regular performances and new recordings by folk artists. Greece s music has always reflected the country s history and politics. Traditional folk music was shunned by the Greek bourgeoisie during the period after independence, when they looked to Europe and classical music and opera rather than their eastern or peasant roots. In the 1920s the rebel underground music known as rembetika (see the boxed text, p74 ) became popular, entering the mainstream after WWII. In the 50s and 60s a popular musical offshoot of rembetika known as laïka (urban folk music) took over and the clubs in Athens became bigger, glitzier and more commercialised. The late Stelios Kazantzidis was the big voice of this era, along with Grigoris Bithikotsis. During this period another style of music emerged led by two outstanding composers the classically trained Mikis Theodorakis and Manos Hatzidakis. Known as entehno or artistic music, they drew on rembetika and instruments such as the bouzouki but had more symphonic arrangements. They

35 74 THE CULTURE Arts THE CULTURE Arts 75 REMBETIKA Rembetika is often referred to as the Greek blues, because of its urban folk-music roots and themes of heartache and longing, hardship, drugs, crime and the grittier elements of urban life. The etymology of the term rembetika is highly disputed, as is its transliteration. The rhythms and melodies are a hybrid of influences, with Byzantine and Ancient Greek roots. Two styles make up what is broadly known as rembetika. The first emerged in the mid- to late 19th century in the thriving port cities of Smyrna and Constantinople, which had large Greek populations, as well as in Thessaloniki, Volos, Syros and Athens. Known as Smyrneika or Café Aman music, it had a rich vocal style with haunting amanedes (vocal improvisations), occasional Turkish lyrics and a more oriental sound. The predominant instruments were the violin, outi (oud), guitar, mandolin, kanonaki and santouri (flat and multi-stringed musical instruments). In Piraeus, rembetika was the music of the underclass and the bouzouki and baglamas became the dominant instruments. When the bulk of refugees from Asia Minor ended up in Piraeus after the 1922 population exchange (many also went to America where rembetika was recorded in the 1920s), it became the music of the ghettos. The lyrics reflected the bleaker themes of their lives; the slums, hash dens and prisons. Markos Vamvakaris, acknowledged as the greatest rembetis, became popular with the first bouzouki group in the early 1930s, which recorded at the Columbia factory in Athens. He revolutionised the sound of popular Greek music. The protagonists of rembetika songs were often the manges, the smartly dressed (often hashish-smoking and knife-carrying) street-wise macho characters who spent their evenings singing and dancing in the tekedes the hash dens which inspired many of the lyrics. Although hashish was illegal, the law was rarely enforced until Metaxas did his clean-up job in 1936, attempting to wipe out the subculture through censorship, police harassment, raids on tekedes and arresting people carrying a bouzouki. Many artists soon stopped performing and recording, though the music continued clandestinely. After WWII a new wave of rembetika performers and composers emerged, including Vasilis Tsitsanis, Apostolos Kaldaras, Yiannis Papaioannou, Georgos Mitsakis and Apostolos Hatzihristou; one of the greatest female rembetika singers, Sotiria Bellou, also appeared at this time. Their music later morphed into lighter laïka (urban folk music), with the lyrics reflecting more social and sentimental themes. It was played in bigger clubs with electrified orchestras, losing much of the essence of the original music. Rembetika s anti-authoritarian themes made the genre popular among political exiles and left-wing activists during the junta years. Interest in genuine rembetika was revived in the late 1970s to early 80s particularly among students and intellectuals, and it continues to be popular today. brought poetry to the masses by creating popular hits from the works of Seferis, Elytis, Ritsos and Kavadias. Yiannis Markopoulos continued this new wave by introducing rural folk-music and traditional instruments such as the lyra, santouri, violin and kanonaki into the mainstream and bringing folk performers like Crete s legendary Nikos Xylouris to the fore. During the junta years Theodorakis and Markopoulos music became a form of political expression and social commentary. Theodorakis music was banned (and Theodorakis jailed). Theodorakis is one of Greece s most prolific composers, though somewhat to his dismay he is best known for the classic Zorba tune. All of the different Greek musical styles are still heard today, with most leading performers drawing on rembetika, laïka and regional music at some stage. Comparatively few Greek performers have, however, made it big on the international scene 1970s icons Nana Mouskouri and kaftan-wearing Demis Roussos remain the best known. Greek music veteran George Dalaras has covered the gamut of Greek music and collaborated with Latin and Balkan artists, as well as Sting. Other distinguished artists include Haris Alexiou, Glykeria, Dimitra Galani, Eleftheria Arvanitaki, Alkistis Protopsalti, Dionysis Savopoulos and Alkinoös Ioannides. Talented singer-songwriters include Nikos Papazoglou, Socrates Malamas, Nikos Portokaloglou, Orfeas Peridis and Stamatis Kraounakis. Contemporary Greek music also includes element of folk rock, heavy metal, rap and electronic dance music, as well as a host of music that fits no established category. The pop-rock band Raining Pleasure is breaking into Europe with English lyrics. Stand-out contemporary singer-songwriters include Thanasis Papakonstantinou, Dimitris Zervoudakis and Miltiadis Pashalidis. Acclaimed vocal artist Savina Yannatou, along with ethnic jazz fusion artists Kristi Stasinopoulou and Mode Plagal, are making a mark on the world music scene, while other notable musicians include Haïnides and Ahilleas Persidis. In classical music and opera, sopranos Elena Kelessidi and Irini Tsirakidou are following in the footsteps of the country s original diva Maria Callas. Greece s best-known conductor was Dimitris Mitropoulos, who led the New York Philharmonic in the 1950s, while Loukas Karytinos is Greece s leading conductor. Greece s most distinguished composers include Stavros Xarhakos and the late Yannis Xenakis. Mezzo-soprano Agnes Baltsa and acclaimed pianist Dimitris Sgouros are internationally known, while Greece s answer to Andrea Bocelli is tenor Mario Frangoulis. Composer Vangelis Papathanasiou is best known for film scores, including Oscar-winner Chariots of Fire, Blade Runner and more recently Alexander, while Stamatis Spanoudakis wrote the excellent soundtrack to Brides. Evanthia Remboutsika, who wrote the music for A Touch of Spice, is an emerging talent, winning the 2006 World Soundtrack awards for the Turkish film My Father & My Son. Greece s big name pop and modern laïka performers include Anna Vissi, Notis Sfakianakis, Despina Vandi, Yiannis Ploutarhos, Antonis Remos, Mihalis Hatziyiannis, heart-throb Sakis Rouvas and Greek-Swedish singer Elena Paparizou, who won Greece the 2005 Eurovision Song Contest. During summer you can see Greece s leading acts in outdoor concerts around the country. In winter they perform in clubs in Athens and Thessaloniki. The hugely popular nightclubs known as bouzoukia are glitzy, expensive, cabaret-style venues where the bouzouki reigns supreme. Musical taste can sometimes takes a back seat in second-rate clubs referred to as skyladika or dog houses apparently because the crooning singers resemble a whining dog. Dance Dancing has been part of social life in Greece since the dawn of Hellenism. Some folk dances derive from the ritual dances performed in ancient Greek temples. The syrtos is depicted on ancient Greek vases and there are references to dances in Homer s works. Many Greek folkdances are performed in a circular formation; in ancient times, dancers formed a circle in order to seal themselves off from evil influences or would dance around an altar, tree, figure or object. Dancing was part of military education. Regional dance styles often reflect the climate or disposition of the participants. In Epiros, the stately tsamikos is slow and dignified, reflecting the often cold and insular nature of mountain life. The Pontian Greeks, on the The comprehensive has an extensive discography and database of more than 2500 songs, while Matt Barrett gives a history and guide to the main players in modern Greek music at www. greektravel.com/music/ index.html. The syrtaki dance immortalised by Anthony Quinn in the final scene in Zorba the Greek was in fact a dance he improvised, as he had injured his leg the day before the shoot and could not perform the traditional steps and leaps originally planned.

36 76 THE CULTURE Arts THE CULTURE Arts 77 Pantelis Voulgaris acclaimed 2004 film Brides follows the fortunes of one of the 700 Greek mail-order brides who set off for America in the 1920s on the SS Alexander, bound for unknown husbands and lives. contrary, have vigorous and warlike dances such as the kotsari, reflecting years of altercations with their Turkish neighbours. In Crete you have the graceful and slow syrtos, the fast and triumphant maleviziotikos and the dynamic pentozali, which has a slow and fast version, in which the leader impresses with high kicks and leaps. The islands, with their bright and cheery atmosphere, give rise to light, springy dances such as the ballos and the syrtos, while the graceful and most widely known kalamatianos, originally from Kalamata, reflects years of proud Peloponnese tradition. The so-called Zorba dance, or syrtaki, is a stylised dance for two or three men or women with linked arms on each other s shoulders, though the modern variation is danced in a long circle with an ever-quickening beat. Women and men until recently danced separately (or often used handkerchiefs to avoid skin contact) and had their own dances, while courtship dances like the sousta were danced together. The often spectacular solo male zeïmbekiko, with its whirling improvisations, has its roots in rembetika, while women have their own sensuous tsifteteli, a svelte, sinewy show of femininity evolved from the Middle Eastern belly dance. Cinema & Television Cinema in Greece took off after the end of the civil war and peaked in the 1950s and early 60s when domestic audiences flocked to a flurry of comedies, melodramas and musicals being produced by the big Greek studios. The 1950s also saw the arrival of significant directors such as Michael Cacoyiannis ( Zorba the Greek) and Nikos Koundouros, while more social themes were tackled in the 1960s. After those heydays, Greece s film industry was in the doldrums, largely due to the demise of the studios after the advent of TV, inadequate funding and state film policy. Film production decreased dramatically from its peak in when 118 films were made in one year to the 15 to 20 films made annually since the late 80s. The problem was compounded by filmmakers taking on writer, director and producer roles, as well as the type of films being produced. The new Greek cinema of the 70s and 80s was largely slow-moving, cerebral epics loaded with symbolism and generally too avant-garde to have mass appeal. The leader of this school is award-winning film director Theodoros Angelopoulos, winner of the Golden Palm award at the 1998 Cannes Film Festival for Eternity and a Day. Angelopoulos is considered one of the few ON LOCATION You ve seen the movie but where in Greece was it shot? Big Blue (1988) Memorable opening scenes in black-and-white of unspoilt Amorgos. Bourne Identity (2002) The final scenes were shot in Mykonos. Captain Corelli s Mandolin (2001) Shot largely in the port of Sami, Kefallonia. For Your Eyes Only (1981) Stunning images of 007, played by Roger Moore, hang-gliding at Meteora. Lara Croft Tomb Raider: the Cradle of Life (2003) Lara Croft went diving off Santorini. Mediterraneo (1991) Italian soldiers are garrisoned on tiny, remote Kastellorizo in the Dodecanese. Never on a Sunday (1960) Greece s big star Melina Mercouri received an Oscar nomination for her role as a prostitute in Piraeus. Pascali s Island (1988) Ben Kingsley plays a Turkish spy on Symi during the dying days of Ottoman occupation. Shirley Valentine (1989) The classic foreign woman s Greek-island romance-fantasy was in Mykonos. Summer Lovers (1982) Darryl Hannah and Peter Gallagher got raunchy on Santorini, Mykonos and Crete. Zorba the Greek (1964) Where else but Crete? The famous beach dance scene was at Stavros, near Hania. GREECE S QUIRKIEST FESTIVALS The Moors On Epiphany (January 6) sword-carrying masqueraders called Arapides go through the northern village of Monastiraki, near Drama, wearing black furry shepherd s coats, tall goatskin masks and sheep s bells around their waists tapping passers by with ash from the heathfires of Christmas (for good luck). Women s Rule Day (Gynaikokratia) On January 8 in the northern villages of Komotini, Xanthi and Serres, the sexes exchange roles for a day. Men have to stay home and do housework (unless they are serving or entertaining women) and women have their fun in the kafeneia. The Goat Dancers of Skyros During carnival, men dress up in goatskins, masks and goat bells, weighing up to 40kg, and parade around skilfully shaking their booty to make music. Tyrnavos Phallic Festival With its roots in Dionysian times, this bizarre Clean Monday event takes place in Tyrnavos where, during the cooking of the bourani (a traditional vegetable soup), revellers parade around with impressive phallic displays reciting lewd poems and performing comedies. Sheep Blessing in Crete In the village of Asi Gonia, tens of thousands of sheep are paraded through the church on St George s Day (April 23), to be blessed and then milked, with milk offered to visitors during the subsequent feast. Anastenarides Fire Walkers On St Constantine s and St Eleni s Day (May 21) in the northern villages of Langadas near Thessaloniki and Agia Eleni near Serres, people bearing icons and waving red kerchiefs dance around hot ashes and run barefoot across hot coals. remaining auteur filmmakers and his films have won international critical acclaim, including the epic Alexander the Great (1980), Travelling Players (1975), Landscape in the Mist (1988) and Ulysses Gaze (1995), starring Harvey Keitel. Another internationally known Greek director is Paris-based Costa- Gavras, who made his name with the 1969 Oscar-winning Z, a story based on the murder of communist deputy Grigoris Lambrakis in Thessaloniki by right-wing thugs. His recent films include Amen (2003) and The Axe (2005). The 1990s saw a shift in cinematic style, with a new generation of directors achieving moderate commercial successes with lighter social satires and themes and a more contemporary style and pace. These included Sotiris Goritsas Balkanizater (1997), Olga Malea s Cow s Orgasm (1996) and The Mating Game (1999), Nikos Perakis Female Company (1999) and the hit comedy Safe Sex (2000), directed by Thanasis Reppas and Mihalis Papathanasiou. But Greece has not had a major international hit since Zorba, and beyond the festival circuit few have made an impact outside Greece. Two major mainstream films that gained international cinematic releases outside Greece the first in many years were Tasos Boulmetis A Touch of Spice (Politiki Kouzina; 2003) and Pantelis Voulgaris 2004 hit Brides (Nyfes), which was executively produced by Martin Scorsese. Perakis chauvinistic but fun 2005 comedy Sirens in the Aegean was a big local hit. The latest wave of filmmakers is attracting international attention with films that present a grittier, up-close and candid look at contemporary Greek life, a shift from the idealised and romanticised views from the past. Directors to watch include Konstantinos Giannaris, whose provocative documentary-style films like From the Edge of the City and his most recent release Hostage seem to split audiences and critics alike. Yannis Economidis, whose punishing second film Soul Kicking (2006), was screened at Cannes, has been likened to a younger Mike Leigh on speed. Tassos Boulmetis 2003 film Politiki Kouzina (A Touch of Spice) is a beautifully shot and bittersweet story about Greek refugees from İstanbul moving to Athens in the 1960s, told through a boy s passion for food. Filmed in Greece and Turkey, it stars the dashing George Corraface.

37 78 THE CULTURE Sport Football remains the most popular spectator sport in Greece REALITY TV Greek TV offers a jumble of programmes from histrionic comedy series, talk shows and soap operas to Greek versions of reality TV, game shows and star-producing talent shows. Prime-time TV is dominated by locally produced shows, with significant investment in domestic programming. Popular American series seem to dominate foreign content. Popular comedies are generally hammed up and loud, though there have also been some excellent dramas in recent years tackling social themes like immigration, single mothers and life in rural Greece. TV reflects local preoccupations and attitudes to gender roles and sexual mores, one example being younger women often portrayed in relationships with much older men, while comedies such as Seven Deadly Mother-In- Laws play on well-known stereotypes. SPORT Two unexpected sporting triumphs the resounding success of the Athens 2004 Olympic Games and the Greek football (soccer) team s astounding victory in the European Cup brought Greece into the international spotlight in The national basketball team kept up the momentum when they became European champions the following year, for a brief time making Greece the reigning European champions in both football and basketball. But since then little of note has happened in the international sporting arena. Greek football has been riding high, however, after many years in the doldrums. Greece had never won a game in a major football championship before their extraordinary performance in the European finals. While the national team post-euro performance was largely lacklustre, they did manage to qualify to defend their title for the Euro 2008 championship with a determined win against Turkey. Football remains the most popular spectator sport in Greece and you will see large TV screens set up outside cafés and tavernas on big match nights. The first division is dominated by the big glamour-clubs of the league: Olympiakos of Piraeus and Panathinaikos of Athens. Their rivalry is occasionally interrupted by AEK Athens and PAOK from Thessaloniki. Greece normally fields two teams in the European Champions League. Basketball is the other major sport. Basketball gained popularity after the Greek team first won the European championship in 1987, for a while overtaking football as business tycoons bought the big clubs and paid big money for broadcast rights. Panathinaikos, Olympiakos and AEK are also the big clubs of Greek basketball. Panathinaikos was European champion in 1996, 2000 and 2002, and Olympiakos followed suit in 1997, while AEK, Aris and PAOK have also won European titles (Greece s national team finished fourth in the European basketball championships in 2007). Greece s interest in other sports was boosted during the Athens Olympics, where Greek athletes won a record 16 Olympic medals, split evenly between men s and women s sports. Since 2004, some of Athens world-class Olympic sports stadiums have attracted international sporting events and track meetings, but most are still awaiting their new fate and likely to be turned into entertainment complexes.

38 61 61 Architecture Column detail from the Parthenon (p113) of the Acropolis, Athens NEIL SETCHFIELD

39 62 ARCHITECTURE 63 There s no denying it: Greece contains the world s natural library of architectural reference. Here you ll find classical temples that have inspired entire civilisations; indeed, Greek temple styles are renowned as international symbols of democracy and have spawned major architectural movements such as the Italian Renaissance and the British Greek Revival but forget those humbug copycats, Greece has the real thing. It s also an exciting time for modern Greece; visitors can track the country s transition from fugly modern high-rise to exciting modern hitech, and heritage gurus are restoring neoclassical glamour with sassy retrofits. Much of Greece is moving forward, including its past. South Propylum, Palace of Knossos (p472), Crete CHRIS CHRISTO GRANDEUR OF KNOSSOS The elaborate palace complex at Knossos ( above ) was originally formed largely as an administrative settlement surrounding the main palace, which comprised the main buildings arranged around a large central courtyard (1250 sq metres). Over time, the entire settlement was rebuilt and extended. Long, raised causeways formed main corridors; narrow labyrinthine chambers flanked the palace walls. The multilevel palace comprised luxurious living spaces, banquet and reception halls, and shrines and ceremonial rooms for religious events. There were even designated areas for celebrating bull contests. (This meandering floor plan of enigmatic labyrinthine corridors, together with the graphic ritual importance of bulls, inspired the myth of the labyrinth and the Minotaur.) The compound featured strategically placed interior light wells, sophisticated ventilation systems, aqueducts, freshwater irrigation wells, and bathrooms with extensive plumbing and drainage systems. The ground levels consisted mostly of workshops, cylindrical grain silos, and storage magazines. MINOAN MAGNIFICENCE Most of our knowledge of Greek architecture proper begins at around 2000 BC with the Minoans, who were based on Crete but whose influence spread throughout the Aegean to include the Cyclades. Minoan architects are famous for having constructed technologically advanced, labyrinthine palace complexes. The famous site at Knossos (see below ) is one of the largest. Usually characterised as palaces, these sites were in fact multifunctional settlements that were the primary residences of royalty and priests, but housed some plebs, too. Minoan townships dotted the rural landscape, along with some grand residential villas that were microversions of the palaces up the road, complete with multilevel abodes, shrines, storage facilities and workshops. Large Minoan villages, such as those of Gournia ( p506 ) and Palekastro ( p509 ) in Crete, also included internal networks of paved roads that extended throughout the countryside to link the settlements with the palaces. More Minoan palaceera sophistication exists at Phaestos ( p475 ), Malia ( p474 ) and Ancient Zakros ( p510 ) on Crete, and at the Minoan outpost of Ancient Akrotiri ( p431 ) in the south of Santorini. However, several gigantic volcanic eruptions rocked the region in the mid-15th century BC, causing geological ripple-effects that at the very least caused big chunks of palace to fall to the ground. The Minoans resolutely rebuilt their crumbling palaces on an even grander scale, only to have more natural disasters wipe them out again. The latter effected an architectural chasm that was filled by the emerging Mycenaean rivals on mainland Greece. MYCENAEAN ENGINEERING The Mycenaeans had a fierce reputation as spectacular structural engineers and expert builders of massive masonry. These rich war-mongering people roamed most of southern mainland Greece, picking off the choice vantage points for their large and austere palaces, which were fenced within formidable citadels. Usually built to a compact and orderly plan, the citadels enclosing fortified Cyclopean-stone walls were on average an unbreachable 3m (10ft) to 7m (25ft) thick it was believed for a time, of course, that only the legendary race of giants could have lifted such monumental blocks of stone. The famous Lion Gate at the citadel of Ancient Mycenae ( p177 ) is the oldest monumental gate in Europe, and is dominated by the triangular-shaped sculpture above that s designed to protect the lintel from the weight of the wall. The immense royal beehive tomb of the Treasury of Atreus (aka Tomb of Agamemnon) at Mycenae was constructed using tapered limestone blocks weighing up to 120 tonnes. The palace at Tiryns ( p185 ) has stupendous corbel-vaulted galleries and is riddled with secret passageways; and the incredibly well-preserved Nestor s Palace ( p217 ), near modern Pylos, also illustrates the Mycenaeans structural expertise. At their zenith, the Mycenaeans had constructed over 300 of these supersized citadels throughout mainland Greece and the Aegean, and ultimately overran the remaining Minoan palaces on Crete. Citadel marvel, Lion Gate (p178), Mycenae JOHN ELK III ARCHAIC ANARCHY When the notorious, war-mongering Dorian tribes bounded across the Greek plains in about 1000 BC, they carried with them a penchant for iron weaponry. Fortunately, however, their great light-bulb moment came during the Archaic period (from about the 8th century BC), when they put their strong iron metallurgy skills to good use and developed a Hellenic architectural vision for temples. Doric masons now used iron rods cased in lead to support monumental limestone drums for columns (instead of the traditional use of timber). Architects designed temples that were now not only reinforced masonry, but also featured terracotta roof tiles and stone guttering. This guttering had a clever outer decorative band (sima) that was covered in elaborately sculptured reliefs forming spouts that allowed rainwater to drain away. Almost three millennia later, only very goat-grazed

40 64 ARCHITECTURE 65 ruins remain of these once-grand Archaic temples; hardcore architecture buffs can muse over the Sanctuary of Poseidon ( p174 ) in Ancient Isthmia or the first Temple of Apollo ( p173 ) in Ancient Corinth. CLASSIC COMPOSITIONS The classical age (5th to 4th centuries BC) is when most Greek architectural clichés converge. This is when temples became characterised by the famous orders of columns, particularly the Doric, Ionic and Corinthian. Doric columns feature austere cushion capitals, fluted shafts and no bases. The classical temple style is also underpinned by the architects refined knack for mathematics and aesthetics. The monument with the biggest reputation for this noble geometric intellect is the mother of all Doric structures, the 5th-century-BC Parthenon ( p113 ), whose blueprints are attributed to master architects Iktinos and Kallicrates. The Parthenon emerged as the ultimate in architectural bling: a gleaming, solid marble crown. To this day, it s probably the most obsessively photographed jewel in all of Greece. In the meantime, the Greek colonies of the Asia Minor coast were creating their own Ionic order, designing a column base in several tiers and adding more flutes. This more graceful order s capital received an ornamented necking, and Iktinos fused elements of its design in the Parthenon. This order is used on the Acropolis Temple of Athena Nike ( p113 ) and the Erechtheion ( p114 ), where the famous Caryatids regally stand. Towards the tail end of the classical period, the Corinthian column was in limited vogue. Featuring a single or double row of ornate leafy scrolls (usually the very sculptural acanthus), the order was subsequently adopted by the Romans and used only on Corinthian temples in Athens. The Temple of Olympian Zeus ( p118 ), completed during Emperor Hadrian s reign, is a grand, imposing structure. Another temple design, the graceful, circular temple tholos (dome) style, was used for the great Sanctuary of Athena ( p234 ) at Delphi. The Greek theatre design is also a hallmark of the classical period. The original classical theatre design had a round stage to accommodate the traditional circular dance. The small structure called a skene (scene building) in the background was used as dressing-hut and stage backdrop. The semicircle of steeply banked stone benches seated many thousands, The striking maiden columns of the Erechtheion known as the Caryatids (p114), Athens NEIL SETCHFIELD MUST-SEE THEATRES Stone and marble Theatre of Dionysos (p114), Athens Epidavros ( p187 ) MARK DAFFEY Delphi ( p233 ) but the perfect acoustics meant every spectator could monitor every syllable uttered on Theatre of Dionysos ( p114 ) Odeon of Herodes Atticus ( p115 ) the stage below. It s thought this auditory Theatre of Dodoni ( p332 ) marvel may have been produced by setting Argos ( p176 ) empty jars underneath the seats; the seats were usually hollowed out so that spectators could draw back their feet to allow others to pass. While Hadrian was still kicking, parts of some theatres were renovated and roofed to create an odeum (music hall), which sometimes shortened the stage into a semicircle. Most ancient Greek theatres are still used for summer festivals, music concerts and plays. See the boxed text ( above ) for a list of must-see theatres. HELLENISTIC CITIZENS In the twilight years of the classical age (from about the late 4th century BC), cosmopolitan folks started to take a very individualistic approach to life, becoming rather weary of focusing so much on temples. They cast their gaze towards a more decadent urban style for their civic and domestic sites. The Hellenistic architect reflected this new wave by responding to calls for new designs for palaces and private homes. Wealthy citizens, dignitaries and political heavyweights of antiquity (think Cleopatra) lavishly remodelled their abodes; many homes featured painted stonework and were redesigned with peristyled (column-surrounded) courtyards in marble, and striking mosaics were displayed as status symbols (read more bling). The best Hellenistic ancient home displays are the grand houses at Delos ( p392 ). BYZANTINE ZEAL Church-building was particularly expressive during Byzantium in Greece (from around AD 700). The Byzantine church design has the perfect symbiotic relationship between structural form and function. The original Greek Byzantine model features a distinctive cross-shape; essentially a central dome supported by four arches on piers and flanked by vaults, with smaller domes at the four corners and three apses to the east. Theologian

41 66 ARCHITECTURE 67 architects opted for spectacular devotional mosaics and frescoes instead of carvings for the stylistic religious interiors, which are vivid microcosmic portrayals. Symbolically, working down from the dome (which is always representative of Christ in heaven), images of the Virgin are shown in the apse (symbolising the point between heaven and earth), with the walls decorated in images of saints or apostles, representing the descent to earth (the nave). In Athens, the very appealing 12th-century Church of Byzantine chapel, Mystras (p197) GLENN BEANLAND Agios Eleftherios ( p119 ) incorporates fragments of a classical frieze in Pentelic marble; the charming 11th-century Church of Kapnikarea ( p119 ) sits stranded, smack bang in the middle of downtown Athens its interior flooring is of coloured marble and the external brickwork, which alternates with stone, is set in patterns. Thessaloniki s 8th-century Church of Agia Sofia ( p278 ), with her 30m-high dome, is a humble version of her sister namesake in İstanbul. There are numerous Byzantine chapels in Kastoria ( p309 ), many of which were originally private chapels attached to enchanting 17th- and 18th-century arhontika (mansions once owned by arhons, wealthy bourgeoisie merchants). Several Byzantine monastic sites have made it to the Unesco World Heritage register, including the katholikon (main churches) of Agios Loukas ( p239 ), significant for their late-byzantine multidomed style, and the 11th-century Moni Dafniou ( p156 ), which stands on the site of an ancient Sanctuary of Apollo. FRANKISH KEEPS & VENETIAN STRONGHOLDS After the sack of Constantinople by the Crusaders in 1204, much of Greece became the fiefdoms of Western aristocrats. The Villehardouin family punctuated the Peloponnesian landscape with Frankish castles, eg at Kalamata ( p210 ) and at Mystras ( p197 ), where they also built a palace that ended up a court of the Byzantine imperial family for two centuries. When the Venetians dropped by to seize a few coastal enclaves, they built the impenetrable 16thcentury Koules Venetian fortress ( p467 ) in Iraklio; the very sturdy fortress at Methoni ( p215 ); and the imposing 18th-century Palamidi fortress ( p181 ) at Nafplio. The rambling defence at Acrocorinth ( p173 ) is studded with imposing gateways, and the rock-nest protecting the enchanting Byzantine village at Monemvasia ( p200 ) commands spectacular ocean views. OTTOMAN OFFERINGS Interestingly, remarkably few monuments are left to catalogue after four centuries of Ottoman Turkish rule (16th to 19th centuries). Though many mosques and their minarets have sadly crumbled or are in serious disrepair, lucky for us some terrific Ottoman-Turkish examples survive. These include the prominent pink-domed Mosque of Süleyman (p523 ) in Rhodes Old Town, which still bears many legacies of its Ottoman past, as does the walled quarter of Ioannina and its restored Fetiye Cami (Victory Mosque; p327 ). The Fethiye Mosque (p128 ) and Turkish TOP FIVE PROVINCIAL ORIGINALS See the medieval, labyrinthine vaulted island village of Pyrgi ( p613 ) in Chios, for its unique Genoese designs of intricate, geometric grey-and-white façades Gaze at the slate mansions of the Zagorohoria ( p332 ) schist-slab roofs, stone-slab walls and fortified courtyards Watch out for the lovely but paranoid semiruined hamlet of Vathia ( p207 ) in Mani, for its startling meercat-esque stone tower houses with round turrets as sentry posts Squint at the volcanic-rock hewn cliff-top village of Oia ( p429 ) in Santorini dazzlingly whitewashed (and we mean really white) island streetscapes and homes Discover the strangely attractive wooden-framed houses of Lefkada Town (p696 ); lower floors panelled in wood; the upper floors lined in painted sheet metal or corrugated iron Streetscape nestled in niches hewn into the volcanic rock at Oia (p429), Santorini. Baths ( p123 ) are two of Athens few surviving Ottoman reminders, and the architect for the 16th-century Koursoun Tzami ( p262 ) in Trikala also designed the Blue Mosque in İstanbul. The charming old Turkish quarter of Varousi ( p262 ) in Trikala, and the atmospheric streets of Thessaloniki ( p272 ), and Didymotiho ( p319 ), near the Turkish border, showcase superb Turkish-designed homes with stained-glass windows, wooden overhangs on buttresses, decorated plasterwork and painted woodwork. Greeks are becoming acutely aware that The grand Athens Academy (p120), Athens GEORGE TSAFOS their 400-year-long Ottoman dossier is worth preserving. One good restoration job is the 18-domed Imaret ( p297 ) in Kavala, which incorporates a mosque, college and hammam (Turkish bath). For more on Greece s efforts to preserve its Ottoman past, see p39 ). NEOCLASSICAL SPLENDOUR Regarded by experts as the most beautiful neoclassical building worldwide, the 1885 Athens Academy ( p120 ) reflects Greece s post-independence yearnings for grand and CHRISTOPHER GROENHOUT

42 68 geometric forms, and Hellenistic detail. Renowned Danish architect Theophile Hansen drew inspiration from the Erechtheion to design the Academy s Ionic-style column entrance (guarded over by Apollo and Athena); the great interior oblong hall is lined with marble seating, and Austrian painter Christian Griepenkerl was commissioned to decorate its elaborate ceiling and wall paintings. In a similar vein, the Doric columns of the Temple of Hephaestus influenced Theophile s solid marble National Library (p120 ), while Christian Hansen (Theophile s brother) was responsible for the handsome but more sedate Athens University ( p120 ), with its clean lines. Meticulously restored neoclassical mansions house notable museums, such as the acclaimed Benaki Museum ( p121 ) and the Ernst Ziller built Numismatic Museum ( p122 ), which contains beautiful frescoes and mosaic floors. Many provincial towns also display beautiful domestic adaptations of neoclassicism. In Symi, the harbour at Gialos ( p548 ) is flanked by colourful neoclassical façades (still striking even if a little derelict) and Nafplio ( p180 ) is also embellished with neoclassical buildings. MODERN IDEAS Athens today is embracing a sophisticated look-both-ways architectural aesthetic by showcasing its vast collection of antiquities and archaeological heritage in evolutionary buildings (see the boxed text, below ), and by beautifying landscapes for pedestrian zones to improve the urban environment. Examples include the well-designed facelift of the historic centre, including its spectacular floodlighting (designed by the renowned Pierre Bideau) of the ancient promenade ( p115 ), and the cutting-edge spaces emerging from once-drab and derelict industrial zones, such as the Gazi (Technopolis; p99 ) gasworks arts complex. BEST FUTURISTIC ATHENS Neoclassical mansions flank the hillside overlooking the harbour in Gialos (p548), Symi New Acropolis Museum ( p115 ) A sharp new space to house Greece s antiquities, featuring an internal glass cella (inner room) mirroring the Parthenon with the same number of columns (clad in steel). House of Letters & Arts (Leoforos Syngrou 109) An imposing glass-and-steel atrium that will exhibit contemporary Greek culture, stage theatre productions and house an electronic library. Opens late Museum of the Hellenic World in Asia Minor ( Hellenic Cosmos; p125 ) Anamorphosis Architects are creating a futuristic exhibition core space and virtual-reality dome comprising continuous, curved lines of glass, steel and marble. Opens Planetarium ( p126 ) Providing a state-of-the-art hemispherical dome for virtual 3D galaxy rides. Athens Olympic Stadium (OAKA; p125 ) Notable for Spanish architect Santiago Calavrata s striking ultramodern glass-and-steel roof, which is suspended by cables from large arches. GEORGE TSAFOS

43 79 E n v i r o n m e n t THE LAND Greece is essentially a mountainous country with a disproportionate number of islands many of which are equally mountainous. Rock and water dominate the landscape and are the two key elements that typify this ancient land. Plains interrupt the mountains in relatively few places, with the exceptions of Thessaly and Thrace, and water the Aegean and Ionian Seas threads together the far flung pieces of real estate that make up the Greece of today. During the Triassic, Jurassic, Cretaceous and even later geological periods, Greece was a shallow oxygen-rich sea. The continuous submerging of land created large tracts of limestone through the whole submarine land mass. Later, as the land emerged from the sea to form the backbone of the current topography, a distinctly eroded landscape with crystalline rocks and other valuable minerals began to appear, marking the spine that links the north and south today. Limestone caves are a major feature of this karst landscape, which is shaped by the dissolution of a soluble layer of bedrock. While volcanic activity was once prevalent in Greece perhaps the world s largest volcanic explosion was on Santorini there is today little volcanic activity, unlike in neighbouring Italy. Earthquakes continue to shake the country with almost predictable frequency. Greece consists of a peninsula and about 1400 islands, of which 169 are inhabited. The land mass is 131,944 sq km and Greek territorial waters occupy about 400,000 sq km. The islands are divided into six groups: the Cyclades, the Dodecanese, the islands of the Northeastern Aegean, the Sporades, the Ionian and the Saronic Gulf Islands. The two largest islands, Crete and Evia, do not belong to any group. The much indented coastline has a total length of 15,020km. In Greece nowhere is much more than 100km from the sea. Greece does not have many rivers, and none that are navigable. The largest are the Aheloös, Aliakmonas, Aoös and Arahthos, all of which have their source in the Pindos Mountains range in Epiros. The long plains of the river valleys, and those between the mountains and the coast, are the only lowlands. The mountainous terrain, dry climate and poor soil restrict agriculture to less than a quarter of the land. Greece is, however, rich in minerals, with reserves of oil, manganese, bauxite and lignite. WILDLIFE Animals Greece s relationship with its fauna has not been a happy one. Hunting of wild animals is a popular activity with Greeks as a means of providing food. This is particularly true in mountainous regions where the partisanship of hunters is legendary. Wild boars have been around since antiquity and are commonly the main game. One could argue that the culling of these destructive and cunning animals is a blessing in disguise. Despite signs forbidding hunting, Greek hunters often shoot freely at any potential game. In reality, you are unlikely to spot any wild animals in areas widely inhabited by humans other than as road kill, or the odd fox, weasel, hare or rabbit scurrying out of your way. The mountains of Northern Greece nonetheless do support a wide range of wildlife. The brown bear, the golden jackal and the grey wolf still survive in the more remote regions of Epiros and Macedonia; and sheep farmers still occasionally point the finger of blame at the much- maligned wolf for occasional marauding and mauling of their flocks. Wild dogs or more likely Nowhere in Greece is much more than 100km from the sea

44 80 ENVIRONMENT Wildlife ENVIRONMENT Plants 81 The Hellenic Ornithological Society, logiki.gr, has loads of information about what to see and where, as well as information about the society s activities. One of Europe s last breeding grounds for raptors ( birds of prey) is at Dadia in eastern Thrace; 36 of Europe s raptor species breed here. Birding in Lesvos by Richard Brooks is an excellent handbook for bird enthusiasts visiting this large northeast Aegean island. shepherds dogs with bad attitudes often roam the higher pastures on grazing mountains and should be given a wide berth if encountered. The country has an active snake population and in spring and summer you will inevitably spot these wriggling reptiles on roads and pathways all over the country. Fortunately the majority are harmless, though the viper and the coral snake can cause fatalities. Lizards are in abundance and there is hardly a dry-stone wall without one of these curious creatures clambering around. Bird-watchers have a field day in Greece as the country is on many north south migratory paths. Lesvos ( p618 ) in particular draws a regular following of birders from all over Europe who come to spot some of the over 279 recorded species that transit the island annually. Another more visible visitor is the stork. Storks arrive in early spring from Africa and return to the same nest year after year. The nests are built on electricity poles, chimney tops and church towers, and can weigh up to 50kg; keep an eye out for them in Northern Greece, especially in Thrace ( p310 ). Lake Mikri Prespa ( p305 ) in Macedonia has the richest colony of fish-eating birds in Europe, including species such as egrets, herons, cormorants and ibises, as well as the rare Dalmatian pelican Turkey and Greece are now the only countries in Europe where this large bird is found. The wetlands at the mouth of the Evros River ( p319 ), close to the border with Turkey, are home to two easily identifiable wading birds the avocet, which has a long curving beak, and the black-winged stilt, which has extremely long pink legs. Upstream on the Evros River in Thrace, the dense forests and rocky outcrops of the 7200-hectare Dadia Forest Reserve ( p320 ) play host to the largest range of birds of prey in Europe. Thirty-six of the 38 European species can be seen here, and it is a breeding ground for 23 of them. Permanent residents include the giant black vulture, whose wingspan reaches 3m, the griffon vulture and the golden eagle. Europe s last 15 pairs of royal eagle nest on the river delta. About 350 pairs (60% of the world s population) of the rare Eleonora s falcon nest on the island of Piperi ( p669 ) in the Sporades and on Tilos ( p550 ), which is also home to the very rare Bonelli s eagle and the shy, cormorantlike Mediterranean shag. Endangered Species One could argue that all the native animals of Greece are endangered, given the encroaching and invasive nature of human development over a generally small landmass. The brown bear, Europe s largest land mammal, still manages to survive, although in very small numbers, in the Pindos Mountains; the Peristeri Range that rises above the Prespa Lakes; and in the mountains that lie along the Bulgarian border. If you want to see a bear in Greece nowadays you are better off heading for the Arcturos Bear Sanctuary in the village of Nymfeo in Macedonia as it s unlikely you will see one anywhere else. The grey wolf, which is not protected in Greece as in other countries, is another endangered species. They survive in small numbers in the forests of the Pindos Mountains in Epiros, as well as in the Dadia Forest Reserve area. Wolves can be spotted reliably only at the Wolf Sanctuary near Aetos in Macedonia, as it s rare to see one in the wild. The golden jackal is a strong candidate for Greece s most misunderstood mammal. Although its diet is 50% vegetarian (and the other 50% is made up of carrion, reptiles and small mammals), it has in the past shouldered much of the blame for attacks on stock carried out by wild dogs or allegedly wolves. It was hunted to the brink of extinction until declared a protected species in 1990, and survives only in the Fokida district of central Greece and on the island of Samos. Marine Life Surprisingly perhaps for a country with such an expanse of sea territory, the state of Greece s marine life is precarious. To their credit the Greeks have taken great pains to clean up their act in and around the water. Water clarity in the Saronic Gulf once notoriously polluted is almost on a par with the further reaches of the Aegean archipelago. Biological treatment of waste is largely responsible and has been very successful. Legislation aimed at preventing water pollution has been noticeably effective at keeping the quality of Greece s seawater at respectable level of salinity. The problems here arise from foreign ships that illegally discharge their waste into the sea. The more endemic problem, however, lies in overfishing a problem that is admittedly Mediterranean-wide. While Greeks love their freshfish restaurants and will pay a premium to eat it, finding the fresh fish is getting ever harder. More often than not it will come from fish-farmers or from further afield. Greece now produces more than 60,000 tons per annum of farmed fish and around 60% of the EU s sea bass and sea bream. Dolphins can be spotted during almost any ferry trip and they are in abundance particularly in the turgid waters of the Amvrakikos Gulf of Western Greece. The continent s rarest mammal the monk seal (Monachus monachus) ekes out an extremely precarious existence in Greece, which is host to about 50% of Europe s minuscule population of 400. It is estimated that about 40 live in the Ionian Sea and the remaining 160 are scattered in small pockets around the Aegean Sea. Previous pervasive habitat encroachment is the main culprit for the paucity in numbers of this species. Small colonies live on the islands of Alonnisos ( p666 ) and there have been reported sightings on Tilos ( p550 ). The waters around Zakynthos are also home to the last large sea turtle colony in Europe, that of the loggerhead turtle (Caretta caretta; see the boxed text p712 ). The loggerhead also nests in smaller numbers on the Peloponnese and on Crete. PLANTS Greece is endowed with a variety of flora unrivalled elsewhere in Europe. The wildflowers are spectacular, with over 6000 species, some of which occur nowhere else, and more than 100 varieties of orchid. They continue to thrive because most of the land is too poor for intensive agriculture and has escaped the ravages of chemical fertilisers. The regions with the most wildflowers are the Lefka Ori mountains of Crete ( p493 ) and the Mani area ( p204 ) of the Peloponnese. Trees begin to blossom as early as the end of February in warmer areas and the wildflowers start to appear in March. During spring the hillsides are carpeted with flowers, which seem to sprout even from the rocks. By summer the flowers have disappeared from everywhere but the northern mountainous regions. Autumn brings a new period of blossoming. The forests that once covered ancient Greece have been decimated by thousands of years of clearing for agriculture, boat building and housing. Northern Greece is the only region that has retained significant areas of native forest and here you will find mountainsides covered with dense thickets of hop hornbeam (Ostrya carpinifolia), noted for its lavish display. Another common species is the Cyprus plane (Platanus orientalis insularis), which thrives wherever there is ample water. It seems as if every village on the mainland has a plane tree shading its central square and a Taverna Platanos (Plane Tree Taverna). The Sea Turtle Protection Society of Greece, Archelon, runs monitoring programmes and is always looking for volunteers. For details, visit Wildflowers of Greece by George Sfikas is one of an excellent series of field guides by this wellknown Greek mountaineer and naturalist.

45 82 ENVIRONMENT National Parks ENVIRONMENT Environmental Issues 83 The Flowers of Greece & The Aegean by William Taylor and Anthony Huxley is the most comprehensive guide for the serious botanist. NATIONAL PARKS National Parks in Greece are not quite like those in modern Western societies. They tend to be protected reserves for the flora and fauna of the region first rather than Disneyfied recreational grounds for socially conscious visitors. Facilities can be basic to decent forget motorised tours yet there will be abundant walking trails, some quite rough and more often than not a clutch of basic refuges for sparse-minded guests. Still, they serve their purpose and for the appreciative and unfussy visitor they will be an excellent alternative to the Yellowstones and Grand Canyons of this world. For visitors who crave a little interactivity with nature, the most visited parks are Mt Parnitha ( p158 ), just north of Athens, and the very popular Samaria Gorge ( p493 ) on Crete. The other national parks are Vikos-Aoös ( p332 ) in Epiros with excellent trekking; Prespa ( p305 ) in Macedonia; Mt Olympus ( p298 ) on the border of Thessaly and Macedonia; and Parnassos ( p237 ) and Iti ( p247 ) in central Greece. Most consist of buffer zones protecting an inner wilderness area. Some activities (including hunting!) are permitted in the buffer areas, but no activities other than walking are allowed in the protected area. ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES Greece is belatedly becoming environmentally conscious. Global awareness, a greater sensitivity on the part of younger technocrats, or sheer financial inducements from funding bodies are shifting Greece s devil-may-care attitude of yesteryear to a growing awareness that the environmental rape and pillage of a land cannot go on for ever. Long-standing problems such as deforestation and soil erosion date back thousands of years. Surprisingly, live cultivation and goats have been the main culprits, but firewood gathering, shipbuilding, housing and industry have all taken their toll. Forest fires are a major problem, with many thousands of hectares destroyed annually. Every year there are forest fires in some of the most picturesque areas of Greece. Such fires on Mt Parnitha and in the Peloponnese in the summer of 2007 destroyed large tracts of that area s vegetation and changed the face of the landscape for many years to come. URBAN SPRAWL Gina Tsarouhas The 20th-century scourge of afthaireta (illegal buildings) that sprouted all over the country due to lax planning controls and/or corruption is an ongoing issue. Paradoxically, while much of inner Athens is being beautified, many of its inner neighbourhood tenants have fled the once-declining and congested centre and have contributed to its growing urban sprawl. Many of these outlying satellite townships have received little sensible urban planning infrastructure and are now suffering additional environmental strain. Urban planners and councils all over Greece are looking at ways to retrofit laws to cater to the swelling of these communities. Many illegal buildings have been legalised, though a few spectacularly outrageous examples along coastal areas have been torn down in recent years. There s also mounting pressure by environmental groups, who are pushing for stronger law enforcement in national marine parks where encroaching coastal tourist development continues to affect the natural habitats of endangered species (see opposite ). The result is that the forests of ancient Greece have all but disappeared. Epiros and Macedonia in northern Greece are now the only places where extensive tracts remain. This loss of forest cover has been accompanied by serious soil erosion. The problem is finally being addressed with the start of a long-overdue reafforestation programme. While a marine park ostensibly exists for the protection of loggerhead turtles at Laganas Bay on Zakynthos, implementing its protective policies has been fraught with difficulties. Tourists cavorting on the beach and excessive neon lights have played with the breeding patterns of this endangered species to a point where the European Commission has reportedly taken up the case and is losing patience with authorities. General environmental awareness remains at a low level, especially where litter is concerned. The problem is particularly bad in rural areas, where roadsides are strewn with soft-drink cans and plastic packaging hurled from passing cars. Environmental education has begun in schools, but it will be a long time before community attitudes change. RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL Visitors should travel responsibly at all times. Follow these common-sense rules: Dispose of litter thoughtfully Do not discard items that could start a fire (cigarette butts, glass bottles etc) forest fires are an annual torment Stick to footpaths wherever possible Close gates behind you Do not pick flowers or wilfully damage tree bark or roots some of the species you see are protected Do not climb on walls or buildings Respect landowners property and do not trespass Take care when walking near cliffs they can be dangerously slippery and quick to crumble Keep noise to a minimum and avoid disturbing wildlife Pay attention to signs and public warnings

46 84 FOOD & DRINK Dining Out 85 For information about Greek products and cuisine, including a glossy magazine with recipes you can download, check out Greeks consume more oil per capita than any other people: 30L annually. Greece is the third-largest producer of olives and olive oil (more than 80% of which is extra-virgin, compared to 45% in Italy), but exports much of its finest oil to Italy, where it is mixed and sold as Italian. F o o d & D r i n k Steeped in ritual, Greece s culinary tradition incorporates mountain village food, island cuisine, exotic flavours introduced by Greeks from Asia Minor, and influences from various invaders and historical trading partners. Greek cuisine also reflects the bounty of the land and the resourcefulness that comes from subsistence living during hard times. Greeks are good at making a delicious meal out of the simplest ingredients, while olive oil is the key to making Greek food taste so good. One of the delights of travelling around Greece is exploring regional variations and specialities. You will find there is more to Greek cuisine than charcoal-grilled meat and seafood, which admittedly Greeks do exceptionally well. The food in the average taverna unfortunately often bears little resemblance to that served at the kitchen table, though traditional home-style dishes are increasingly appearing on restaurant menus. Even in tourist areas, many tavernas have stopped pandering to foreign predilections and traded schnitzel for stifadho (a sweet stew with tomato and onions). A new generation of Greek chefs is also experimenting with variations of traditional dishes and flavours, as well as attempts at more inventive Greek haute cuisine. Overall, Greece s dining scene has become increasingly diverse and there is more international and ethnic cuisine in Athens and larger towns. Greeks are fussy eaters and are sticklers for fresh produce, often travelling great distances to eat in village tavernas, where they know the meat is local and the produce from the owner s garden, or dine on the day s catch in remote fishing villages. Whether it s dining alfresco at a rickety table by the sea, quaffing wine straight from the barrel at a traditional basement koutouki (cosy meeting spot) in Athens or eating boiled goat in a mountain village, eating out in Greece is not just about what you eat, but the whole sensory experience. THE GREEK KITCHEN The essence of Greek cuisine lies in its fresh, unadulterated seasonal produce and original flavours. The cuisine is generally unfussy and its simplicity brings out the rich flavours of the Mediterranean. The majority of Greek dishes are mainly seasoned with salt, pepper, lemon, olive oil and pungent Greek oregano, while parsley, garlic and dill are also widely used. Vegetables, pulses and legumes (key elements of the healthy Mediterranean diet) are made tastier by plentiful use of olive oil and herbs. Meat has become more prominent in the modern diet; lamb and pork dominate, though kid goat is also common. Beef is mostly imported and chicken is also widely used, with special dishes being reserved for the kokoras (rooster). At home meat is commonly prepared with lemon and oregano and baked with potatoes, or used in tomato-based stews (kokkinisto). Rabbit is either fried or cooked in a stifadho. Almost every part of the animal is used from the delicacy ameletita (literally unspeakables ), which are fried sheep s testicles to kokoretsi (spicy, spit-roasted offal wrapped in intestines) and the hangover-busting patsas (tripe soup). In a land with countless miles of coastline, fish has long been a staple. Fish from the Mediterranean and Aegean Seas are tasty enough to be cooked with minimum fuss usually grilled whole and drizzled with ladholemono (a lemon and oil dressing). Smaller fish like barbounia (red mullet) and maridha (whitebait) are lightly fried. The ubiquitous Greek salad (horiatiki, translated as village salad ) is the summer salad, with tomatoes, cucumber, onions, feta and olives. Other summer favourites include dishes like yemista (seasonal vegetables stuffed with rice and herbs). Salads are normally seasonal, with lettuce and cabbage served outside the summer. Horta (wild greens) make a great warm salad, drizzled with olive oil and lemon. A staple with a myriad regional variations of pastry and fillings is the pita (pie), the most common being the tyropita (cheese pie) and spanakopita (spinach pie). Typical Greek pasta dishes include pastitsio (a thick spaghetti and meat bake) and the hearty oven-baked youvetsi, which is meat in a tomato sauce with kritharaki (rice-shaped pasta). Bread is a mandatory feature of every meal. The most common is the white crusty horiatiko (village) loaf. DINING OUT Eating out with family and friends is an integral part of social life, and Greeks eat out regularly regardless of socioeconomic status. Most prefer the relaxed taverna style of dining, normally sharing a range of dishes. The key to picking a restaurant is to find where locals are eating, rather than tourist tavernas (touts and big illuminated photos and signs are usually a giveaway). Hotel recommendations can be tricky as some have deals with particular restaurants or will suggest one run by a relative. Try to adapt to local eating times a restaurant that was empty at 7pm might be heaving at 11pm (for more details see Habits & Customs, p89 ). Solo diners remain a curiosity but are looked after. Most tavernas are open all day, but upmarket restaurants often open for dinner only. Mezedhes & Starters Most places have a wide range of mezedhes (appetisers) that are shared, though it is quite acceptable to make a full meal of them. Common mezedhes include dips, such as taramasalata (fish roe), tzatziki (yogurt, cucumber and garlic) and melitzanosalata (aubergine), keftedes (meatballs), loukaniko (sausage) and saganaki (skillet-fried cheese). Vegetarian mezedhes include rice-filled dolmadhes (see p90 ), deepfried zucchini or aubergine slices, gigantes (lima beans in tomato and herb sauce) vegetable fritters, most commonly kolokythokeftedes There are at least 100 edible horta (wild greens), though even the most knowledgeable person would not recognise more than a dozen. WHERE TO EAT & DRINK Bar restaurant A more recent urban concept, they become incredibly loud after 11pm. Estiatorio A restaurant, where you pay more for essentially the same dishes as in a taverna or mayireio, but with a nicer setting and formal service. These days it also refers to an upmarket restaurant serving international cuisine. Kafeneio One of the oldest institutions, a kafeneio (coffee house) serves Greek coffee, spirits and little else, and remains largely the domain of men. Mayireio Specialises in traditional home-style one-pot dishes and oven cooked meals (known as mayirefta). Mezedhopoleio Offers lots of small plates of mezedhes (appetisers). Ouzerie Traditionally serves tiny plates of mezedhes with each round of ouzo. The Cretan equivalent is a rakadiko (serving raki) while in the north you will find tsipouradhika (premises serving tsipouro, a variation on the local fire water; see also The Tsipouradhika, p253 ). Psarotaverna Tavern or restaurant that specialises in fish and seafood. Psistaria A taverna specialising in char-grilled or spit-roasted meat. Taverna The most common, casual, family-run (and child-friendly) place, where the waiter arrives with bread and cutlery in a basket; usually has barrel wine, paper tablecloths and fairly standard menus. Zaharoplasteio A cross between a patisserie and a café (though some only cater for takeaway and gifts).

47 86 FOOD & DRINK Dining Out FOOD & DRINK Regional Specialities 87 FISHY BUSINESS Fresh fish in Greek restaurants (such as in a psarotaverna, see p85 ) is usually sold by weight and traditionally grilled and served whole, with a simple lemon and oil dressing. It is customary to go into the kitchen and choose the fish yourself. Make sure it s weighed (raw) so you don t get a shock when the bill arrives. Don t kid yourself that there is enough local fish to cater for the millions of tourists who descend each summer. The fish on your plate could just as well be from Senegal and there is also an increase in inferior farmed fish. Unfortunately some places charge the same regardless. Most places will state if the fish and seafood is frozen, though sometimes only on the Greek menu (indicated by the abbreviated kat or an asterisk). Smaller fish are often a safer bet the odder the sizes, the more chance that they are local. See the glossary ( p92 ) for common fish names. Acclaimed London chef Theodore Kyriakou goes back to his roots in search of recipes for The Real Greek at Home, the follow-up to his first book Real Greek Food; both are co-written by Charles Campion. (with zucchini), revythokeftedhes (with chick pea) or domatokeftedhes (with tomato). Typical seafood mezedhes are pickled or grilled ohtapodi (octopus), lakerda (cured fish), mussel or prawn saganaki (usually fried with tomato sauce and cheese), crispy fried calamari and fried maridha. Soup is not normally eaten as a starter, but can be an economical and hearty meal in itself. You ll occasionally come across home-style soups, such as fakes (lentils), fasolada (bean soup) or chicken soup with rice and avgolemono (egg and lemon), but you are more likely to find a psarosoupa (fish soup) with vegetables or kakavia (a bouillabaisse-style speciality laden with various fish and seafood; made to order). Mains Most tavernas will have a combination of one-pot and oven-baked dishes (commonly referred to as mayirefta) and food cooked to order (tis oras), such as grilled meats. Mayirefta are usually prepared early and left to cool, which enhances the flavour (they are often better served lukewarm, though many places microwave them). The most common mayirefta are mousakas (layers of eggplant or zucchini, minced meat and potatoes topped with cheese sauce and baked), boureki (a cheese, zucchini and potato bake), pastitsio and yemista. Other tasty dishes include rabbit or beef stifadho and soutzoukakia (spicy meatballs in tomato sauce). Tasty charcoal-grilled meats most commonly païdakia (lamb cutlets) and brizoles (pork chops) are usually ordered by the kilo. Restaurants tend to serve souvlaki cubes of grilled meat on a skewer, rather than gyros (meat slivers cooked on a vertical rotisserie; usually eaten with pitta bread). Seafood mains include octopus in wine with macaroni, grilled soupies (cuttlefish), squid stuffed with cheese and herbs or rice, and fried salted cod served with skordalia (a lethal garlic and potato dip). Sweet Treats After a meal Greeks traditionally serve fruit rather than sweets but that s not to say that there are not some delectable Greek sweets and cakes. Sweets are offered to guests with coffee or taken as gifts when visiting someone s home. Traditional sweets include baklava, loukoumadhes (ball-shaped doughnuts served with honey and cinnamon), kataïfi (chopped nuts inside shredded angel-hair pastry), rizogalo (rice pudding) and galaktoboureko (custard-filled pastry). Dodoni is an excellent local brand of ice cream and it is worth looking out for places selling politiko pagoto (Constantinople-style ice cream). Traditional syrupy fruit preserves (spoon sweets) are served on tiny plates as a welcome offering (and occasionally after dinner), but are also delicious as a topping on yogurt or ice cream. REGIONAL SPECIALITIES While you ll find the staple dishes throughout Greece, seek out the diverse regional variations and specialities. Some areas have dishes unheard of in other parts of Greece, such as kavourma, the smoked water buffalo made around Serres, or pies made with nettles in northern Greece. The cuisine of northern Greece is influenced by the eastern flavours introduced by Asia Minor refugees, and uses less olive oil and more peppers and spices than the rest of the country. Northern coastal towns are known for their seafood delicacies like fried mussels or mussel pilaf. The Peloponnese is known for simpler herb-rich one-pot dishes. As the biggest producers of olive oil, it is not surprising that the Peloponnese and Crete have the biggest variety of ladhera (vegetable dishes baked or stewed with plenty of olive oil). The cuisine of the Ionian islands (which were never under Turkish rule) has an Italian influence, seen in dishes such as sofrito, a braised meat with garlic and wine sauce. On Sifnos, revithadha (a local chick-pea stew) is made in a specially shaped clay pot and slow-cooked overnight. You ll find excellent cured meats across Greece, from the vinegar cured apaki (Crete), olive-oil stored pasto (the Mani) and specialities, such as louza (Tinos) and siglino (Crete and Peloponnese). In Crete other specialities include spiky wild artichokes, soupies (cuttlefish) with wild fennel or horta, hohlii (snails) and dakos (rusks moistened and topped with tomato, olive oil and cheese). Santorini and the Cyclades are renowned for their fava (split pea purée served with lemon juice and finely cut red onions), sun-dried tomato fritters and wild capers. The Glorious Foods of Greece by Diane Kochilas is a must have for any serious cook, with a regional exploration of Greek food. Kochilas culinary tour provides insights into Greece s history and culture as well as glorious recipes. SAY CHEESE Greeks are the world s biggest per capita consumers of cheese, eating around 25kg per capita annually. Widely used in cooking in both savoury and sweet dishes, cheese is also a virtually mandatory accompaniment to any meal. Greece probably produces as many different types of cheese as there are villages, with infinite variations in taste. Most are made from goat s and sheep s milk. Several Greek cheeses have gained appellation of origin status. Feta, the national cheese, has been produced for about 6000 years from sheep s and/or goat s milk. Graviera, a nutty, mild Gruyère-like sheep s milk cheese, is made around Greece, but is a speciality of Crete, where it is often aged in caves or stone huts (mitata). Other excellent cheeses include kaseri, similar to provolone, the ricotta-like whey cheese myzithra and the creamy manouri from the north. Myzithra is also dried and hardened and grated in pastas. Anthotyro, a low-fat soft unsalted whey cheese similar to myzithra, and the hardened sour xynomyzithra are made in Crete. Other distinctive regional cheeses include galotiri, a strong white spreadable cheese from Thessaly; ladotyri, a hard golden cheese from Mitylini preserved in olive oil; and the semi-soft smoked metsovone from Epiros and mastelo from Chios. The popular skillet-fried cheese mezes, saganaki, is made from firm, sharp cheeses, such as kefalotyri or kefalograviera, while formaella, from Arahova, is ideal grilled.

48 88 FOOD & DRINK Vegetarians & Vegans FOOD & DRINK Habits & Customs 89 The Olive and the Caper by foodie and anthropologist Susanna Hoffman provides a lively exploration of Greek food culture, with interesting culinary sidebars on history, mythology, customs and regional specialities, and 325 recipes. Look out for regional sweet specialities, such as amygdalota (almond sweets) from Andros, and Thessaloniki s favourite bougatsa (creamy semolina/custard pudding wrapped in a pastry envelope, baked and sprinkled with icing sugar). Quick Eats Souvlaki is still the favourite fast food, both the gyros and skewered versions wrapped in pitta bread, with tomato, onion and lashings of tzatziki. Tyropites (cheese pies) and spanakopites (spinach pies) can be found in every bakery and food store. Another favourite snack is the koulouri (round, sesamecovered fresh pretzel-like bread) sold by street vendors. There are plenty of fastfoudadika (burger and fast-food chains) in major cities. VEGETARIANS & VEGANS A legacy of lean times and the Orthodox faith s fasting traditions mean vegetables feature prominently in the Greek kitchen, making it easier and tastier to go vegetarian in Greece. Ladhera are the mainstay of religious fasts. Look for popular vegetarian dishes, such fasolakia yiahni (green bean stew), bamies (stuffed okra) and briam (oven-baked vegetable casserole). Artichokes and aubergines are also widely used, while vine leaf or cabbage dolmadhes and stuffed zucchini flowers (anthoi) are a staple. Beans and pulses are the foundation of the winter diet, when you will usually find dishes such as yigandes (giant white beans cooked in a light tomato sauce with dill) on the menu. Of the wild greens, vlita (amaranth) are the sweetest, but other common varieties include wild radish, dandelion, stinging nettle and sorrel. FEASTS & CELEBRATIONS Food plays an integral part in religious rituals and cultural celebrations, which inevitably involve a feast. Every morsel is laced with symbolism, from Christmas biscuits to the spit-roast lamb for Easter. Even the 40-day Lenten fast has its culinary attractions, with special dishes that have no meat or dairy products (or oil if you go strictly by the book). MADE IN GREECE Feta cheese was the first Greek product to gain the same protected status as Parma ham and champagne. Only feta made in Greece can be called feta, a ruling that will eventually apply outside the EU. Several other local products are also being recognised as officially Greek, including ouzo, and tsipouro and tsikoudia (see p91 ) are likely to follow suit. One of the more obscure Greek products is mastic, the aromatic resin from the mastic trees that grow almost exclusively on the island of Chios. Most people associate it with chewing gum, liqueur, or the sticky white fondant sweet served in a glass of water, but it is also used to flavour pastries and other foods, and its medicinal benefits are promoted through mastic-based natural skin products and pharmaceuticals. Greece is also one of the biggest producers of organic red saffron, grown in villages around the northern town of Kozani one of the few areas in the world suitable for cultivation of high quality saffron. Kozani saffron (Krokos kozanis) has protected Designation of Origin status. Greece produces an exceptional tangy, thick-strained yogurt, usually made from sheep s milk. It is rich and flavourful and ideal for breakfast with thick aromatic thyme honey, walnuts and fruit. Look out for locally made yogurt in villages and small towns. Another local delicacy is avgotaraho (botargo), a distinctive fish roe (usually grey mullet) from Messolongi on the west coast, which is preserved in beeswax. DOS & DON TS Do ask what the local speciality is in each region. Do look in the pots in the kitchen to select your meal. Do select your own fish and get it weighed. Don t insist on paying if you are invited out it insults your host. Don t refuse a coffee or drink it s a gesture of hospitality and goodwill. Red-dyed boiled eggs are an integral part of Easter festivities, both for cracking and decorating the tsoureki, a brioche-style bread flavoured with mastic and mahlepi (mahaleb cherry kernels). The Resurrection Mass on Saturday night is followed by a supper that includes a bowl of mayiritsa (offal soup), while on Easter Sunday you will see lambs being cooked on spits all over the countryside. Christmas is a more low-key celebration, with pork the traditional dish for Christmas Day. A golden-glazed cake called vasilopita (baked with a lucky coin inside) is cut at midnight on New Year s Eve, giving good fortune to whoever gets the lucky piece. Lenten sweets include halva, both the Macedonian-style version made from tahini (sold in blocks in delis) and the semolina dessert often served in tavernas after a meal. In agricultural areas many festivals are dedicated to local produce, from the Aubergine Festival (see p192 ) in Leonidio in the Peloponnese (which has a distinctive long purple local variety) to the Sardine festival in Preveza, held in August. HABITS & CUSTOMS Hospitality is a key element of Greek culture, from the glass of water served on arrival to the customary complimentary fruit at the end of the meal. Meals are commonly laid out in the middle of the table and shared, rather than served individually, making it a more social dining experience (it also means meals can be stretched to accommodate extra and unexpected guests, as is often the case). Greeks generally order way too much food and notoriously over-cater at home, preferring to give it away or even throw it out than not have enough. Breakfast is commonly a cigarette and a cup of coffee, and maybe a tyropita eaten on the run, though you ll find omelettes and Western-style breakfasts in tourist areas. Though changes in working hours are affecting traditional meal patterns, lunch is still usually the big meal of the day and does not start until after 2pm. Cafés do a roaring post-siesta afternoon trade. Most Greeks wouldn t think of eating dinner before sunset, which coincides with shop closing hours, so restaurants often don t fill up until after 10pm. Dining is a drawn-out ritual, so if you are eating with locals you should probably go easy on the mezedhes, because there will usually be many more to come. The pace of service can accordingly be slow by Western standards, but it s also important to remember the staff is not in a rush to get you out of there either, generally leaving you alone until you ask for the bill. It is polite not to start drinking until everyone else s glass is full and they ve done the customary toast, Yia mas. Greeks generally don t drink coffee after a meal and many tavernas don t offer it. Boasting the largest collection of Greek recipes on the web is which also includes a Greek culinary dictionary and cookbook reviews.

49 90 FOOD & DRINK Eating With Kids FOOD & DRINK Drinks 91 The Illustrated Greek Wine Book by Nico Manessis is the definitive guide, tracing the history of Greek wine. It profiles leading Greek winemakers and wine regions, and has hundreds of reviews. Also check out EATING WITH KIDS Greeks love children and tavernas are child-friendly, where it seems no-one is too fussed if children play between the tables. You might find a children s menu in some tourist areas but kids mostly eat what their parents eat. For more information on travelling with children, see p719. COOKING COURSES Several well-known cooking writers and chefs run cooking courses, mostly during spring and autumn. Aglaia Kremezi and her friends open their kitchens and gardens on the island of Kea for five-day hands-on cooking workshops ( Award-winning Greek-American food writer Diane Kochilas runs her Glorious Greek Kitchen ( course on her ancestral island Ikaria. Crete s Culinary Sanctuaries ( run by Greek American chef and food writer Nikki Rose, combines cooking classes, farm tours, hiking and cultural excursions. DRINKS Wine Krasi (wine) predates the written record in Greece, with the wine god Dionysos tramping the vintage before the Bronze Age. By the time of Greek Independence in 1821, however, there wasn t much of a wine industry, with most wine made for personal consumption. It wasn t until the 1960s that Greeks began producing wine commercially and the infamous retsina was introduced to the world. Flavoured with the resin of pine trees, retsina became popular in the 1960s when, due to urbanisation in Athens and a boom in tourism, bottled retsina took over from the casks that tavernas used to ferment it in. It was mass produced and exported widely. Nowadays, retsina has taken on a folkloric significance with foreigners. It does go well with strongly flavoured food (especially seafood) and you can still find some excellent homemade retsina. Leading wineries are also producing a more lightly resinated and sophisticated new-age retsina. TRAVEL YOUR TASTE BUDS You will discover a range of culinary treats on your travels around Greece. Look out for the following. ahinosalata sea urchin eggs with lemon juice, for a super-fish taste anthoi zucchini flowers stuffed with rice and herbs bekri mezes spicy meat pieces cooked in tomato and red wine bougatsa Thessaloniki s famous creamy semolina/custard pudding wrapped in pastry dolmadhes vine or cabbage leaves stuffed with rice and herbs domatokeftedhes tasty tomato fritters from the Cyclades fava yellow split-pea purée from Santorini gavros marinatos delicious marinated anchovies hohlii bourbouristoi Crete s famous snail dish horta wild greens; nutritious and delicious keftedes small meatballs made with minced lamb or pork melitzanosalata a tangy roast aubergine purée saganaki a sharp, hard cheese skillet-fried until crispy on the outside and soft in the centre taramasalata a thick pink or white purée of fish roe, potato, oil and lemon juice tyrokafteri a spicy feta cheese based dip OUZO Ouzo is Greece s most famous but misunderstood tipple. While it can be drunk as an apéritif, for most Greeks ouzo has come to embody a way of socialising best enjoyed during a lazy, extended summer afternoon of mezedhes (appetisers) by the seaside. Ouzo is sipped slowly and ritually to cleanse the palate between tastes (it also cuts through the oiliness of some foods). Ouzo is served in small bottles or karafakia (carafes) with a glass of water and bowl of ice cubes, and should be drunk on the rocks diluted with water (it turns a cloudy white). Drinking it straight is not advisable. Mixing it with cola is a foreign abomination. Made from distilled grapes in a similar way to grappa or raki, ouzo is also distilled with residuals from fruit, grains and potatoes and flavoured with spices, primarily aniseed, giving it that liquorice flavour. The best ouzo is produced in Lesvos (Mytilini), particularly the top brand Plomari, named after the region where it is widely made. These days more ouzo is drunk in Germany than Greece, where Johnnie Walker dominates and the trendy young things are downing mojitos. In the past 20 years, however, Greek wine has experienced a renaissance, led by a new generation of progressive, internationally-trained winemakers. Apart from wines made from foreign varieties, age-old indigenous Greek varietals are being increasingly used and recognised internationally for their unique flavours. White varieties to look out for include moschofilero, assyrtiko, athiri, roditis, robola and savatiano. Greek reds include xynomavro, agiorgitiko and kotsifali. A rose agiorgitiko is the perfect summer wine. Greek wines are produced in relatively small quantities, however, making many essentially boutique wines (and priced accordingly). Dessert wines include excellent muscats from Samos, Limnos and Rhodes, Santorini s Vinsanto, Mavrodafne wine (often used in cooking) and Monemvasia s Malmsey sweet wine. Spirits Greece s main firewater is tsipouro, a highly potent spirit produced from fermented distilled grape skins. A similar but smoother variation called raki or tsikoudia is produced in Crete. You should also look out for sweet liquors like Kumquat from Corfu, Mastiha from Chios (best served chilled), citrus-flavoured Kitro from Naxos and the spicy Tentura drink from Patra. Greek brandies tend to be sweet and flowery in the nose, the dominant brandy being Metaxa. Beer Greeks are not big beer drinkers, consuming about half the EU per capita average. The most common beer is locally brewed Amstel and Heineken, while major Greek brands include Mythos and Alfa. A number of smaller boutique breweries have sprouted in recent years, producing some fine brews. Look out for Vergina, a lager produced by the Macedonian Thrace brewery, the organic Piraiki beer made in Piraeus, Hillas from Rodopi and Crete s Rethymniaki blonde and dark lagers. Another small local brewery, Craft, has beer in draught form at bars around the country. Corfu produces a unique non-alcoholic ginger beer called Tsitsibira. Hot Beverages A legacy of Ottoman rule, Greek coffee has a rich aroma and distinctive taste (and is traditionally brewed on hot sand in a special coffee-maker called a hovoli). These days it s made in special briki (copper pots) and served in a Greece shares the honours with South Korea for the world s highest per capita consumption of whisky which sells twice as much as domestically produced ouzo.

50 92 FOOD & DRINK Eat Your Words FOOD & DRINK Eat Your Words 93 Culinaria Greece is a superb weighty tome that explores Greek cuisine by region, recipes, history, guide to Greek products and wine. Edited by Marianthi Milona, it s a glossy and useful reference with plenty of photos. small cup. It should be sipped slowly until you reach the mud-like grounds at the bottom (don t drink them) and it is best drunk metrios (medium, with one sugar). Greek coffee is, however, struggling to maintain its place as the national drink against the ubiquitous frappé, the iced instant coffee concoction that you see everyone drinking. Espresso also comes in a refreshing chilled form (freddo). While tsai (tea) is usually a sorry story (hot water and a cheap-brand teabag), the chamomile and tsai tou vounou (mountain teas) that grow wild all over Greece are excellent. Crete s endemic Diktamo (dittany) is known for its medicinal qualities and the island s other reputedly medicinal warm tipple (found in many parts of Greece) is rakomelo raki, honey and cloves. EAT YOUR WORDS Get behind the cuisine scene by getting to know the language. For pronunciation guidelines see p752. Useful Phrases I want to make a reservation for this evening. Θέλω να κλείσω ένα τραπέζι για απόψε. the lo na kli so e na tra pe zi ya a po pse A table for please. Eνα τραπέζι για παρακαλώ. e na tra pe zi ya, pa ra ka lo I d like the menu, please. Το μενού, παρακαλώ. to me nu, pa ra ka lo Do you have a menu in English? Εχετε το μενού στα αγγλικά? e hye te to me nu sta ang li ka? I d like Θα ήθελα tha i the la Please bring the bill. Το λογαριασμό, παρακαλώ. to lo ghar ya zmo, pa ra ka lo I m a vegetarian. Είμαι χορτοφάγος. i me hor to fa ghos I don t eat meat or dairy products. Δε τρώω κρέας ή γαλακτοκομικά προϊόντα. dhen tro o kre as i gha la kto ko mi ka pro i on da Food Glossary STAPLES ψωμί pso mi bread βούτυρο vu ti ro butter τυρί ti ri cheese αυγά a vgha eggs μέλι me li honey γάλα gha la milk ελαιόλαδο e le o la dho olive oil ελιές e lyes olives πιπέρι pi pe ri pepper αλάτι a la ti salt ζάχαρη za ha ri sugar ξύδι ksi dhi vinegar MEAT, FISH & SEAFOOD βοδινό vo dhi no beef ροφός ro fos blackfish κοτόπουλο ko to pu lo chicken σουπιά sou pia cuttlefish κέφαλος ke fa los grey mullet σφυρίδα sfi ri da grouper ζαμπόν zam bon ham λαγός la ghos hare κατσικάκι ka tsi ka ki kid (goat) αρνί ar ni lamb αστακός a sta kos lobster κολιός ko li os mackerel μύδια mi di a mussels χταπόδι ohta po dhi octopus χοιρινό hyi ri no pork γαρίδες gha ri dhes prawns κουνέλι kou ne li rabbit μπαρμπούνια bar bou nya red mullet σαρδέλες sar dhe les sardines φαγρί/λιθρίνι/ fa ghri/li thri ni/ sea bream μελανούρι me la nu ri καλαμάρι ka la ma ri squid ξιφίας ksi fi as swordfish μοσχάρι mos ha ri veal μαρίδα ma ri dha whitebait FRUIT & VEGETABLES μήλο mi lo apple αγγινάρα ang gi na ra artichoke σπαράγγι spa rang gi asparagus μελιτζάνα me li dza na aubergine λάχανο la ha no cabbage καρότο ka ro to carrot κεράσι ke ra si cherry σκόρδο skor dho garlic σταφύλια sta fi li a grapes (άγρια) χόρτα (a ghri a) hor ta greens, seasonal wild λεμόνι le mo ni lemon κρεμμύδια kre mi dhi a onions πορτοκάλι por to ka li orange ροδάκινο ro dha ki no peach αρακάς a ra kas peas πιπεριές pi per yes peppers πατάτες pa ta tes potatoes σπανάκι spa na ki spinach φράουλα fra u la strawberry ντομάτα do ma ta tomato DRINKS μπύρα bi ra beer καφές ka fes coffee τσάι tsa i tea νερό ne ro water κρασί (κόκκινο/ kra si (ko ki no/ wine (red/ άσπρο) a spro) white)

51 Lonely Planet Publications 94 www. Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content.

52 ATHENS & ATTICA Lonely Planet Publications 94 www. RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS RunningSubhead History 95 A t h e n s & A t t i c a Αθήνα & Aττική The Greek capital is undergoing a radical period of urban renewal that did not stop with the 2004 Olympics. The magnificent Acropolis, crowned by the iconic Parthenon temple, rises above the city, watching the sprawling modern metropolis evolve. Athens is now a conspicuously wealthier, more sophisticated cosmopolitan city. The shift is evident in a gradual gentrification and the new art and leisure precincts around town, and in the lifestyles of the hedonistic, trend-conscious Athenians. Stylish new restaurants, shops and revamped hotels continue to open. Perhaps the most significant change is in the historic centre, virtually unrecognisable since cars were banished, with most significant ancient sites linked in what has become Europe s longest and arguably most stunning pedestrian promenade. This huge archaeological park has reconciled past and present, with the city s cultural and social life once again taking place around the ancient monuments and surrounding neighbourhoods. Athens remains a city of contradictions, as frustrating as it is seductive. It is the oldest city in Europe, yet still in a state of transition. It s one of Europe s safest and liveliest cities a heady mix of grunge and grace with an undeniable urban soul. Most visitors will leave impressed with its vibrant street life and relaxed lifestyle, where people take time out for endless coffees and evening strolls, dine out until late and enjoy the city s nightlife, long after the rest of Europe has gone to bed. Athenians are the first to debate and lament their city s many shortcomings but most wouldn t live anywhere else. HIGHLIGHTS Ancient Splendour Glimpsing the awe-inspiring Acropolis rising above the city for the first time ( p111 ) Historic Trails Strolling through ancient Athens along the grand pedestrian promenade ( p115 ) Feast for the Eyes Dining in Thisio or Plaka with a view of the floodlit Acropolis ( p137 ) Greek Treasures Viewing the superb collection of antiquities at the National Archaeological Museum ( p120 ) Ancient Stage Catching an Athens Festival show at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus ( p130 ) Magic Nights Visiting lively bars, glamorous beach bars or moonlight cinema ( p141 ) Take Time Out Watching the sun set at Cape Sounion ( p155 ) POPULATION: ATHENS 3.4 MILLION; ATTICA 4 MILLION Plaka Ancient Athens AREA : 3808 SQ KM National Archaeological Museum Acropolis Odeon of Herodes Atticus Cape Sounion ATHENS ΑΘΗΝΑ HISTORY Early History The early history of Athens is inextricably interwoven with mythology, making it impossible to disentangle fact from fiction. What is known is that the hill-top site of the Acropolis, with two abundant springs, drew some of Greece s earliest Neolithic settlers. When a peaceful agricultural existence gave way to the war-orientated city-states, the Acropolis provided an ideal defensive position. By 1400 BC the Acropolis had become a powerful Mycenaean city. It survived the Dorian assault in 1200 BC but didn t escape the dark age that enveloped Greece for the next 400 years. Little is known of this period. After its emergence from the dark age in the 8th century BC, a period of peace followed, during which Athens became the artistic centre of Greece, excelling in ceramics. The geometric vase designs from the dark age evolved into a narrative style, depicting scenes from everyday life and mythology (known as the Proto-Attic style). By the 6th century BC, Athens was ruled by aristocrats and generals. Labourers and peasants had no say in the functioning of the city until the reform3-oriented Solon became arhon (chief magistrate) in 594 BC and improved the lot of the poor. Regarded as the harbinger of Athenian democracy, Solon s most significant reforms were the annulment of debts and the implementation of trial by jury. Continuing unrest over the reforms created the pretext for the tyrant Peisistratos, formerly head of the military, to seize power in 560 BC. Peisistratos built up a formidable navy and extended the boundaries of Athenian influence on land. A patron of the arts, he inaugurated the Festival of the Great Dionysia, the precursor of Attic drama, and commissioned many splendid sacred and secular buildings most of which were destroyed by the Persians. Peisistratos was succeeded by his tyrant son Hippias in 528 BC. Athens managed to rid itself of this oppressor in 510 BC with the help of Sparta. Hippias went to Persia and returned with Darius 20 years later, only to be defeated at the Battle of Marathon. Athens Golden Age After Athens finally repulsed the Persian Empire at the battles of Salamis and Plataea (again, with the help of Sparta), its power knew no bounds. In 477 BC Athens established a confederacy on the sacred island of Delos and demanded tributes from the surrounding islands to protect them from the Persians. It was little more than a standover racket because the Persians were no longer much of a threat. The treasury was moved to Athens in 461 BC and Pericles (ruler from 461 to 429 BC) used the money to transform the city. This period has become known as Athens golden age, the pinnacle of the classical era. Most of the monuments on the Acropolis today date from Athens golden age. Drama and literature flourished in the form of the tragedies written by such luminaries as Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripides. The sculptors Pheidias and Myron and the historians Herodotus, Thucydides and Xenophon also lived during this time. Rivalry with Sparta Sparta did not sit back and let Athens revel in its new-found glory. The jockeying for power between the two led to the Peloponnesian Wars (see p34 ) in 431 BC, which dragged on until 404 BC, when Sparta gained the upper hand. Athens was never to return to ATHENA & THE OLIVE TREE According to mythology, Kekrops, a Phoenician, came to Attica and founded a city on a huge rock near the sea. The gods of Olympus proclaimed that the city should be named after the deity who could produce the most valuable legacy for mortals. Athena (goddess of wisdom) produced an olive tree, symbol of peace and prosperity. Poseidon (god of the sea) struck a rock with his trident and a horse sprang forth, symbolising the qualities of strength and fortitude. The gods judged that Athena s gift would better serve the citizens of Athens than the arts of war personified by Poseidon s gift. ATHENS & ATTICA

53 96 RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS History Runningsubhead www. www. RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS RunningSubhead Orientation 97 ATHENS & ATTICA its former glory. The 4th century BC did, however, produce three of the West s greatest orators and philosophers: Socrates, Plato and Aristotle. The degeneracy into which Athens had fallen was perhaps epitomised by the ignominious death sentence passed on Socrates for the crime of corrupting the young with his speeches. In 338 BC, along with the other city-states of Greece, Athens was conquered by Philip II of Macedon. After Philip s assassination, his son Alexander the Great, a cultured young man, favoured Athens over other city-states. After Alexander s untimely death, Athens passed in quick succession through the hands of several of his generals. Roman & Byzantine Rule Athens continued to be a major seat of learning under Roman rule, when many wealthy young Romans attended Athens schools. Anybody who was anybody in Rome at the time spoke Greek. The Roman emperors, particularly Hadrian, graced Athens with many grand buildings. After the subdivision of the Roman Empire into east and west, Athens remained an important cultural and intellectual centre until Emperor Justinian closed its schools of philosophy in 529. The city declined into an outpost of the Byzantine Empire. Between 1200 and 1450, Athens was continually invaded by the Franks, Catalans, Florentines and Venetians, all opportunists preoccupied with grabbing principalities from the crumbling Byzantine Empire. Ottoman Rule & Independence Athens was captured by the Turks in 1456, and nearly 400 years of Ottoman rule followed. The Acropolis became the home of the Turkish governor, the Parthenon was converted into a mosque, and the Erechtheion was used as a harem. In the early stages of the War of Independence ( ), fierce fighting broke out in the streets of Athens, with the city changing hands several times between Turks and Greek liberators. In 1834 Athens superseded Nafplio as the capital of independent Greece and King Otho set about transforming the sparsely populated, war-scarred town into something worthy of a capital. Bavarian architects created a city of imposing neoclassical buildings, tree-lined boulevards, flower gardens and squares. Sadly, many of these buildings have been demolished. The best surviving examples are on Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias and Panepistimiou. The 20th Century Athens grew steadily throughout the latter half of the 19th and early 20th centuries, and enjoyed a brief heyday as the Paris of the eastern Mediterranean. This ended abruptly in 1923 with the Treaty of Lausanne, which resulted in nearly a million refugees from Turkey descending on Athens an event that marked the beginning of its muchmaligned concrete sprawl. Athens suffered appallingly during the German occupation of WWII, during which time more Athenians were killed by starvation than by the enemy. This suffering was perpetuated in the civil war that followed. The industrialisation programme launched during the 1950s, with the help of US aid, brought another population boom as people from the islands and mainland villages moved to Athens in search of work. The colonels junta ( ), with characteristic insensitivity, tore down many of the old Turkish houses of Plaka and the neoclassical buildings of King Otho s time. But the junta failed to tackle the chronic infrastructure problems resulting from such rapid and unplanned growth. The elected governments that followed in the late 1970s and 1980s didn t do much better, and by the end of the 1980s, the city had developed a sorry reputation as one of the most traffic clogged and polluted in Europe. The 1990s were a turning point, with politicians finally accepting the need for radical solutions. Inspired initially by the failed bid to stage the 1996 Olympics, authorities embarked on an ambitious programme to drag the city into the 21st century. The 2004 Olympics deadline fast-tracked projects that had been on the drawing board for years and forced many more changes across the public and private sectors. Key elements were a major expansion of the road and underground metro network, and the construction of a new international airport. As Athens absorbed more than 600,000 migrants, legal and illegal, the city s social fabric was also changing, presenting a new set of challenges. Post-Olympics Athens After a frantic, suspense-filled period of construction and doomsaying, Athens surprised much of the world by pulling off a successful Olympic Games in Billions of euros were poured into the city s redevelopment, from transport infrastructure and stadiums to pedestrian zones around the historic centre. Major beautification projects removed ugly billboards, paved footpaths, redeveloped the city s parks and squares, and mass-planted trees and plants. The Olympics legacy is that Athens today is a radically different city a more attractive, cleaner, greener and more efficient capital, though it is still a work in progress and still battling with basic infrastructure issues like waste management. ORIENTATION City Centre Athens is a sprawling urban mass but the historic centre and most major sites are located within walking distance of Syntagmatos (Syntagma Sq). The city s two major landmarks, the Acropolis and Lykavittos Hill, can be seen from just about anywhere and are useful for getting one s bearings. Major streets are generally clearly signposted in Greek and English. Downtown Athens is a city of distinct neighbourhoods, each with its own individual character. ATHENS IN PRINT Athens (2004), by Michael Llewellyn Smith, is an excellent cultural and literary history, while John Freely s Strolling Through Athens (2004) explores the city through walks around Athens. In the novel Euridice Street (2004), anthropologist Sofka Zinovieff makes some interesting observations of contemporary Athens society, albeit through the privileged perspective of a diplomat s wife moving to Greece. Other worthy publications include Athens by Neighbourhood (2001), written by local resident Diane Shugart, and Patricia Storace s popular novel Dinner With Persephone (1996), written during a year in Athens. For a glimpse into Athens, underbelly, try The Late Night News (2004) for crime fiction by Petros Markaris. SYNTAGMA ΣΥΝΤΑΓΜΑ Syntagma (Constitution) is the heart of modern Athens, dominated by the Parliament and surrounded by major hotels, the central business district, shopping precincts and the National Gardens. With pleasant shady benches, central fountain, cafés and the Syntagma metro station nearby, it is a popular meeting place. Syntagma is the main focal point for public rallies and civic events, while the changing of the guard ceremony outside the Parliament is one of the city s most popular spectacles. P L A K A ΠΛΑΚΑ South of Syntagma, Plaka is the old Turkish quarter and virtually all that existed when Athens was declared capital of independent Greece. Its paved, narrow streets nestle into the northeastern slope of the Acropolis and pass by many of the city s ancient sites. Plaka is touristy in the extreme, but it is still the most attractive and atmospheric part of Athens. The main streets, Kydathineon and Adrianou, are packed solid with restaurants and souvenir shops, but elsewhere its virtually car-free streets, with restored neoclassical mansions, can be a peaceful oasis. The quaint labyrinthine Anafiotika quarter above Plaka is a narrow maze of whitewashed, island-style houses built by stonemasons from the island of Anafi, brought in to build the king s palace. MONASTIRAKI ΜΟΝΑΣΤΗΡΑΚΙ Centred on busy Monastirakiou (Monastiraki Sq), the area just west of Syntagma is the city s somewhat grungier but nonetheless atmospheric market district. The famous Athens flea market ( p144 ) is southwest of the square, while the central market ( p136 ) is to the north on Athinas. PSYRRI ΨΥΡΡΗ The once clapped-out neighbourhood of Psyrri (psee-ree), just north of Monastiraki, still looks pretty grungy from the outside, but the Soho of Athens is brimming with stylish restaurants, bars, theatres and hip art galleries. The slick warehouse conversions and restored neoclassical houses compete with a hotchpotch of stores, bakeries, workshops and dilapidated buildings, giving the area an interesting edge. Psyrri comes alive after dusk and it is the place to go to hear live Greek ATHENS & ATTICA

54 98 RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS Orientation Runningsubhead www. www. RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS RunningSubhead Information 99 ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS IN Two Days First stop is the Acropolis ( p111 ), then wind your way down to the Ancient Agora ( p116 ) and the Plaka district, where its Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman pasts coexist with modern city life. Have a late lunch in a Plaka taverna ( p137 ). In the late afternoon take a long walk around the Acropolis promenade, starting at the Temple of Olympian Zeus ( p118 ), then around to Filopappou Hill ( p124 ) and Thisio, and end the evening with dinner at a restaurant with a view of the Parthenon. On day two, watch the changing of the guard ( p125 ) at Syntagma before heading to the National Archaeological Museum ( p120 ) for the morning and/or the Benaki Museum ( p121 ). Spend the afternoon exploring downtown Athens. Try to catch a show at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus ( p130 ), one of the world s most historic venues, or head to the Psyrri or Gazi neighbourhoods for dinner and nightlife. Four Days If you ve got a couple more days, you can add the following activities to your Athens itinerary. On the third day, walk through the gardens to the old Olympic stadium, then head to the Byzantine & Christian Museum ( p121 ) or Goulandris Museum of Cycladic & Ancient Greek Art ( p121 ) before lunch and some shopping in Kolonaki ( p143 ). Take a trip to Cape Sounion in the afternoon to see the Temple of Poseidon ( p155 ) at sunset or go to the lovely Mikrolimano harbour in Piraeus ( p154 ) for dinner, and then get a taste of summer nightlife at one of Athens beach bars. On the fourth day, go to Monastiraki s flea market ( p144 ) for some last-minute souvenirs, then have lunch in a traditional taverna in the central market ( p136 ). Take the teleferik (funicular railway) to the peak of Lykavittos Hill ( p124 ) for a panoramic view of Athens, then catch a movie by moonlight at Aigli ( p141 ), Athens oldest outdoor cinema. music at one of the tavernas, particularly on Sunday afternoon. THISIO ΘΗΣΕΙΟ The areas west of Monastiraki underwent a remarkable transformation during the 1990s. The pedestrianisation of the area around the Acropolis has made the former traffic-clogged, noisy thoroughfare of Apostolou Pavlou one of the most serene parts of the city. It s now a lovely green zone and a thriving area full of bars and cafés. KOLONAKI ΚΟΛΩΝΑΚΙ The posh residential district of Kolonaki, east of Syntagma, is undeniably chic. Tucked beneath Lykavittos Hill, it has long been the favoured address of Athenian socialites. Its streets are full of classy boutiques and private art galleries, as well as dozens of upmarket cafés and trendy restaurants. Kolonakiou (Kolonaki Sq) and the cafés along Milioni are prime positions for people-watching and fashion victim spotting. Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias is one of Athens most imposing streets. Its neoclassical buildings now house museums, embassies and government offices. MAKRYGIANNI & KOUKAKI ΑΚΡΥΓΙΑΝΝΗ & ΚΟΥΚΑΚΙ Despite their proximity to the historic centre, the quiet neighbourhoods south of the Acropolis are refreshingly untouristy. Makrygianni, a trendy residential suburb between Filopappou Hill and Leoforos Syngrou Andrea, has a few upmarket hotels and restaurants, and is also home to one of the city s gay precincts (between Stratigou Makrygiannji and Leoforos Syngrou Andrea; see p139 ). South of Makrygianni is the low-key residential district of Koukaki, which runs along the foothills of the Acropolis and has some excellent neighbourhood tavernas. AROUND OMONIA ΟΜΟΝΟΙΑ Omonia, north of Syntagma, was once one of the city s smarter areas, but despite ongoing efforts to tart it up, it is still seedy. The square itself is cut off by traffic and has become a popular meeting point for the city s undesirable elements. South of the square is the hub of an emerging ethnic district, with an Asian quarter and several Bangladeshi shops in the streets behind Omonia and west of Eleftherias (Koumoundourou). Some of the clapped-out apartment blocks are now hostels and makeshift mosques for the city s increasing refugee and illegal-immigrant population. It makes an interesting backdrop for the trendy art galleries and boutique hotels that have sprouted in the area. The area to the northwest of Omonias (Omonia Sq) probably rates as the sleaziest part of Athens, particularly the streets around Vathis notorious for prostitutes and drug addicts. EXARHIA ΕΞΑΡΧΕΙΑ Just south of the National Archaeological Museum is the Athens Polytechnio (Technical University), the tertiary institution with a long tradition of radical thinking and alternative culture it led the infamous student sit-in of 1973, in opposition of the junta. Squashed between the Polytechnio and Strefi Hill is the rather bohemian residential area of Exarhia, popular with students, artists and intellectuals. It s a lively neighbourhood with graffiti-covered walls and lots of goodvalue restaurants, cafés, bars and alternative book, comic, music and clothing stores. GAZI ΓΚΑΖΙ The revival of the Gazi neighbourhood started with the transformation of the historic gasworks into a cultural centre. The red chimney stacks now brightly illuminate the surrounding streets, which have sprouted trendy restaurants and bars. It has also become the most gay-friendly neighbourhood of Athens, with a host of gay bars and clubs. The area is still gritty, though the urban renewal is spreading to nearby Metaxourghio and along busy Pireos, which now boasts one of the fanciest restaurants in Athens (see Varoulko, p139 ), a boutique hotel and the Benaki Museum s new wing (p121 ). METS & PANGRATI ΜΕΤΣ & ΠΑΓΚΡΑΤΙ To the east of the Acropolis, opposite the Zappeio Gardens, is the district of Mets, which is characterised by some delightful old Turkish houses. Mets runs behind the imposing old Olympic Stadium, built into Ardettos Hill. Leoforos Vasileos Konstantinou leads to the National Art Gallery ( p122 ), while east of Mets is Pangrati, another pleasant residential neighbourhood with interesting music clubs, cafés and restaurants. Outer Athens GLYFADA ΓΛΥΦΑΔΑ Once Attica s principal beach-resort town, these days Glyfada (off Map p100 ), 12km southeast of Athens, is a chic seaside suburb popular with ex-pats. In summer, half of Athens descends on Glyfada, drawn by its beaches, bars and restaurants and sea breezes. Glyfada marks the beginning of a stretch of coastline known as the Apollo Coast, which has a string of fine beaches running south to Cape Sounion. KIFISIA ΚΗΦΙΣΙΑ Leafy Kifisia (off Map p100 ) was once a cool northern retreat where rich Athenians had their villas. The rich and famous still monopolise what is now essentially an elite suburb. Its lovely tree-lined streets, mansions and gardens couldn t be further from the hustle and bustle of downtown Athens. Kifisia has some of the city s best shopping, fine restaurants and some of the most chic hotels in town. It is the last stop on the metro Line 1. Maps The free map handed out by the tourist office is fine for central Athens. To seriously explore beyond the centre, buy a copy of the Athens- Piraeus street directory (in Greek), available at most bookshops and stationery stores. INFORMATION Bookshops Compendium (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Navarhou Nikodimou 5 & Nikis, Plaka) Specialises in books in English, and has a popular secondhand section. Eleftheroudakis Syntagma (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Panepistimiou 17); Plaka (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Nikis 20) The seven-floor Panepistimiou store is the biggest bookshop in Athens, with a level dedicated to English-language books. Road Editions (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Solonos 71, Exarhia) A wide range of travel literature and all the Road Editions maps. Emergency Athens Central Police Station (Map pp106-7 ; % /17; Leoforos Alexandras 173, Ambelokipi) ELPA Road Assistance (%10400) (Continued on page 109) ATHENS & ATTICA

55 THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB Lenorman Leof Athinon Iera Odos Patsi Spyrou Ious Pireos A Akadimias Platonos Leof Konstandinoupoleos Koulouris Kilis Leof Kifisou Ioanninon Lofos Ippeiou Kolonou Petras Larisis train station Petroula Sot. Ramnes Gazi Technopolis Thessalonikis To Foundation for the Hellenic World (2km); Allou Fun Park (6km); Kidom (6km); Piraeus (9.5km) CENTRAL ATHENS To Bus Terminal B (1km); Future SKA Rail Hub Dimofontos Dyrrahiou Dodonis Lofos Skouze Keramikos Thisio Hill of the Nymphs Attikis Ahilleos Thermopylon Nileos Leof Konstandinoupoleos Apolloniou See Gazi & Thisio Map (p101) INFORMATION Dutch Embassy... 1 D5 Greek Youth Hostel Organisation.. 2 D5 Irish Embassy... 3 D5 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Athens Centre... 4 D5 Klaoudatos... 5 C3 Panathenaic Stadium... 6 D5 SLEEPING Hostel Aphrodite... 7 B2 Youth Hostel No D5 B 13 Diakou Athan. (Thymarakia) Liosion Liosion Larisa metro station Peloponnese Attiki Metaxourghio Thisio Psyrri Agiou Meletiou Agorakritou 7 Omonia Pireos (Tsaldari Panagi) Syngrou-Fix Monastiraki Ancient Agora Anafiotika Koukaki Leof Ionias Ioulianou Iroön Omonia Ag Konstantinou Monastiraki Ag. Nikolaou Athens School of Economics Areos Viktoria 15 Park Viktorias Egyptou 16 5 See Omonia & Exarhia Map (pp104 5) Acropolis Amerikis Omonias Panepistimio Plaka Filopappou Akropoli Hill Makrygianni See Syntagma & Monastiraki Map (pp102 3) Leof Syngrou Andrea Aharnon Athinas Dionysiou Areopagitou Aristotelous 3is Septemvriou Kodringtonos To Planetarium (3km); Glyfada (17km) EATING Hristos... 9 D5 Spondi D5 Vyrinis D5 ENTERTAINMENT Alavastro Café D5 Gagarin 205 Club B1 Mousikes Skies D5 C Kalliga 28 Oktovriou-Patission Exarhion Stadiou Ag. Georgiou Kypselis Exarhia Solonos Panepistimiou (El Venizelou) Athens University Syntagma 0 1 km miles Syntagma Zappeio Gardens Karea Leof Vouliagmeni Mets Kypselis (Kanari) Leof Vas Olgas Ardittou Boustou Strefi Hill National Gardens Athens' First Cemetery See Makrygianni & Koukaki Map (p106) Karpou Evelpidon Leof Alexandras Kolonaki 1 3 Stadiou 6 Ardettos Hill 4 Lofos Finopoulou Ippokratous Kolonakiou Irodou Attikou Moustoxydi Markou Mousourou Ymittou 11 Damareos TRANSPORT Mavromateon Bus Terminal (Marathon & Rafina) C2 Mavromateon Bus Terminal (Southern Attica) C2 Ag Glykerias D Evangelismos 10 Amvrosiou Plyta Velvendou Kafkasou See Kolonaki & Ambelokipi Map (pp106 7) 14 Pangrati Ag. Artemiou Kyprion Ethnomartyron 12 Profitou Ilia 2 Alsos Polygonos Lykavittos Hill Dante Alsos Pangratiou Umittou Lofos Patatsou Pringiponnison Gyzi N Gyzi Leof Vas Konstantinou To Moni Kaisariani (4km) Filolaou To Kifisia (13km) 9 8 Dimopoulou Amfipoleos Votanikos Orfeos Votanikos Kipos Agiou Polykarpou Kadmias 15 GAZI & THISIO SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Benaki Museum Pireos Annexe... 1 A4 Church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris... 2 D5 Hill of the Nymphs... 3 D5 Hill of the Pnyx... 4 D5 Islamic Art Museum... 5 D2 Keramikos... 6 D2 Maria Callas Museum... 7 C3 Sacred & Dipylon Gates... 8 D2 Technopolis... 9 B3 Patsi Spyrou Katerinis Frearion Andronikou Nevrokopiou Anixeos Ergatikis Protomagias Prespas Afidneon Leof Konstantinoupoleos Ehelidon Grevenon Pangeou Dyaleon Angistis Ahniadon Gefyreon Tzaferi Pireos Trizin0S Kreousis Vasiliou Tou Megalou Dedalidon Symmahidon Skamvonidon Ag Markellas 1 Ippothondidon Tithonou Rodopis Paralou Alkyoneos Alkminis Ptolemaidos Kiriadon Dekeleon Stratoniki Alkyoneos Votanikos Gargittion Zagreos Ikarieon Koulouris Polyfimou SLEEPING Hotel Erechthion D4 EATING Filistron D4 Kanela B2 Mamacas B3 Sardelles B3 Skoufias A4 To Steki tou Ilia D3 Varoulko C2 DRINKING 45 Moires B2 Athinaion Politeia D4 Blue Train B2 Gazaki B3 Hoxton B2 Stavlos D3 ENTERTAINMENT Dora Stratou Dance Theatre C6 Sodade B2 Thission D4 SHOPPING Sunday Flea Market C3 Elasidon Fylasion Kiriadon Kastorias Pellis Melenikou Kassandras Damokleous Theanous Sofroniou Voutadon Sfittion Amfitryonos Epakreon Therriklidon Tellou Dorieon Dryopon Kyklopon Pelagonias Triptolemou Zakyadon Adrastou Gazi Evrystheos Klimentos Troon Iolaou Halkidikis 20 Filostratou Persi Timonos Dimofontos Keleou Aristofondos Karyon Leof Konstantinoupoleos Efpatridon Evmolpidon Persefonis Dionis Evadnis Thessalonikis Trion Ierarhon Vitonos Merkouri Amal. Kalypsous Paramythias Thriasion Ramnousion Evrymedondos Meliteon Aheon Myrmidonon Alimousion Artemisiou Yperionos Kydandidon Troon Eoleon Arkadon Ionon Dinoharous 9 Alkidamandos Efiras Kallisthenous Iakxou Evneidon Ierofandon Thisio Park Afea Ethras Padova Thorikion Ethalidon Dimofontos Zografou Mykinon Meg Alexandrou Amazonon Exoneon Akamandos Timodimou Pallineon Tritonos Vassani Kallisthenous Evrynomis Psamathis Andeou Valavani Pamfilis 7 Gika Mykalis Prodikou 27 Kol okotroni Genneou Pireos Aginoros Troon Hlori d os Navarhou Apostoli Andoniadou Apolloniou Dimofontos Xenofilou Eleftherias (Koumoundourou) Hrysanthakopoulou Arakynthou Apolloniou Voutie Beranzofsky Plateon Pileos Myronidou Ahilleos Nileos Kymeon Mentoros Sfaktirias Dameou Alsos Petralonon Mirtsiefsky Erysihthonos m miles Archaeological Museum of Keramikos Karydi Efestion Eptahalkou Erysihthonos Poulopoulou Stirieon Galatias 24 Stisikleous See Omonia & Exarhia Map (pp104 5) Salaminos Kleomvrotou Akteou Kynegirou Thermopylon Keramikou 17 Granikou Lykomidon Agisilaou Keramikos 8 6 Thisio Vasilis Iraklidon Hill of the Nymphs Psyrri Agion Asomaton Pireos (Tsaldari Panagi) Ermou Agios Athanasios Church Akamandos Germanikou Amfiktyonos Marathonos Leonidou Old Athens Observatory 3 16 Pygmalionos Giatrakou Akadimou Melidoni 23 Thisiou Apost Pavlou Flammarion 10 Myllerou Otryneon Kalogirou Samouil Dimitriou Eginitou 4 Filopappou Hill Kolokinthous Psaromilingou Ag. Asomaton 19 Pnykos Iasonos Leonnatou Thisio Iouliou Smith Dipylou See Syntagma & Monastiraki Map (pp102 3) THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB Leokoriou Temple of Hephaestus 11 Apostolou Pavlou 26 2 Adrianou Ancient Agora See Makrygianni & Koukaki Map (p108) Areopagus Hill

56 Nisou Makri Frynihou Leof Syngrou Andrea See Kolonaki & Ambelokipi Map (pp106 7) THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB CITY Eptahalkou Thisiou m 102 SYNTAGMA & MONASTIRAKI miles 103 Iouliou Smith Thisio Dimitriou Eginitou Hill of the Nymphs 25 See Gazi & Thisio Map (p101) A See Makrygianni & Koukaki Map (p108) CTRY Ag. Asomaton Temple of Hephaestus Apostolou Pavlou 70 Thisiou Ancient Agora 19 Astingos Adrianou Arionos 90 Avliton INFORMATION American Express... 1 F1 Athens Archaeological Service.. 2 C2 Bits & Bytes Internet Café... 3 D2 Compendium... 4 F3 Egyptian Embassy... 5 H1 Eleftheroudakis... 6 F2 EOT... 7 G3 Eurochange... 8 G1 Hellenic Skiing Federation... 9 G1 Hellenic Windsurfing Association G2 Ivis Internet G2 National Bank of Greece G1 Pacific Travel Luggage Storage F2 Plaka Laundrette F4 Post Office F3 Syntagma Post Office G2 20 Areopagus Hill 29 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Acropolis C4 Agios Nikolaos Rangavas E3 Ancient Agora A2 Areopagus Hill B3 Cathedral E2 Centre of Folk Arts & Traditions E3 CHAT G2 Church of Agia Ekaterini E4 Church of Agios Dimitrios Filopappou Loumbardiaris... Hill 25 A5 Church of Agios Eleftherios E2 Church of Kapnikarea D1 Church of Sotira Lykodimou.. 28 G3 Filopappou Hill A5 Frissiras Museum F3 Hadrian's Arch F5 Hadrian's Library C2 B Ag Filippou Kynetou Rovertou Galli Karaiskaki Avyssinias 95 Theorias Garivaldi Normanou 66 Ifestou Dionysiou Areopagitou Pittaki Stoa of Attalos Webster Vrysakiou Angelikara Kevitos 82 Theorias Propyleon Fratti Ratzieri Thiramenous Fenaretis Sofroniskou Ag Theklas Ermou Monastiraki Kladou Peikilis Odeon of Herodes Atticus Areos Taxiarhon Dioskouron Dioskouron Temple of Athena Nike 93 C Themidos Monastirakiou Polygnotou Mitroou To Ghiolman Yachts & Travel (50m) Hellenic Children's Museum F3 Jewish Museum F3 Kanellopoulos Museum C3 Lysikratous Monument E4 Museum of Children's Art F3 Museum of Greek Folk Art F3 Museum of Greek Popular Instruments D2 National Gardens H3 Parliament H2 Roman Agora C2 Roman Baths G4 Scoutway E3 Temple of Olympian Zeus F5 Tower of the Winds D2 Trekking Hellas G2 Turkish Baths D3 Zappeio Gardens H4 Erehthiou Dexippou Panos Aretousas Promahou Kavalloti Parthenos 77 Kalippou Pandrosou Epaminonda Kirykeiou Tholou Klepsydras Petmeza Avramiotou Agias Irinis D Monastiraki Dimopratiriou Adrianou Pelopida Eolou Klepsydras 75 Karyatidon Eolou 46 Markou Kalogrioni Arhaia Agoras Aureliou Thrasyvoulou Andokidou Ermou 92 Acropolis 64 Kallisperi Old Athens University Parthenon SLEEPING Acropolis House Pension F3 Adams Hotel F4 Adonis Hotel F3 Athens Cypria Hotel F1 Central Hotel E2 Electra Palace F3 Hotel Achilleas F1 Hotel Adrian D2 Hotel Grande Bretagne G1 John's Place E2 Magna Grecia Hotel E2 Niki Hotel F2 Plaka Hotel D2 Student & Travellers' Inn F3 Tempi Hotel D1 Agia Irini Kapnikareas Anafiotika Mitseon 87 Hristopoulou Prytaniou Strateon Kapnikareas Diogenous Hatzihristou Skouze Athinaidos 3 74 Theatre of Dionysos 62 Erotokritou Makrigianni Mitromara Mnisikleous Kyrristou Lyssiou 72 Veikou 27 Kalamiotou Vlahou Ang Erehtheos Stratonos 88 Klitiou Ktena Mitropoleos Tripodon 18 Benizelou Paleologou Flessa Sholiou Epiharmou Rangava Epimenidou Thrasyllou Evangelistrias 60 Vakhou Acropolis Museum Akropoli Romvis Agiou Thespidos Stratigou Makrygianni Ermou Andreou Agias Filotheis Porinou E Perikleous Hill Shelley Vyronos Fokionos Mitropoleos Dionysiou Areopagitou Adrianou Tsokri 44 Thiseos Petraki Ipatias Thoukididou Kaleshrou Kornarou Kekropos Hatzimihali Angelikis Farmaki Afroditis Patroou Herefontos Vourvahi 59 Apollonos Galanou Lysikratous Eshinou Tzireon 53 Leka Diomias Ipitou Plaka F Syntagma Sotiros Hrysostomou Filomousou Eterias Goura Lossif Rogon Thalou Lembesi Axarlian Navarhou Nikodimou Angelou Geronta 51 Sotiras Pendelis Kydathineon Voulis Pittakou Skoufou Iperidou Kodrou Periandrou Karageorgi Servias Monis Asteriou Tsangari Diakou Ath Tsatsou K Dedalou Kaliroos 15 Nikis 61 Lamahou 34 Nikis Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias EATING Ariston F1 Café Avyssinia B1 Furin Kazan F2 Glykis E3 Kostas Souvlaki E3 Kuzina A1 Noodle Bar F2 Palia Taverna tou Psara D3 Paradosiako F3 Platanos D2 Savas C1 Souvlaki tou Hasapi F2 45 Kallirrois Filellinon Stadiou Simonidou Rallou Manou G Syntagmatos Xenofontos Souri G Voukourestiou Athens King Plaza George II Palace 58 Vasileos Georgiou I 23 Othonos Leoforos Vas Olgas 101 Syntagma Mets Zappeio Gardens Thanasis C1 To Kafeneio E3 Tzitzikas & Mermingas F2 Vizantino E3 DRINKING Brettos E4 Dioskouri C2 ENTERTAINMENT Aigli Cinema H4 Cine Paris E4 Lallabai Garden H4 Kriezotou Koutoula 5 83 Ardittou CTRY Zalokosta 49 Miniati Fotiadou CITY H Kolonaki Vasilissis Sofias Parliament Building 41 National Gardens Piga M 85 Balanou K 40 Lava Bore G3 Mostrou D3 Palea Plakiotiki Taverna Stamatopoulos D3 Perivoli Tou Ouranou F4 Stoa Pikilis B1 SHOPPING Amorgos F3 Centre of Hellenic Tradition D1 Melissinos Art C1 Mesogaia F3 Monastiraki Flea Market B1 TRANSPORT Aegean Airlines G2 Bus 024 to Bus Terminal B G3 Bus No 040 to Piraeus G2 Bus X95 to Airport G2 Buses to Cape Sounion G2 Buses to Glyfada G2 Olympic Airlines G2 Tram Terminus G2 THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB

57 Eshylou Polyklitou T D m 104 OMONIA & EXARHIA miles 105 CITY CTRY CTRY CITY u THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB thymenous 1 Palamidiou 2 Dourouti 3 Thermopylon 4 5 INFORMATION National Historical Museum F6 Athens Central Post Office... 1 E4 National Library F5 Cyberzone... 2 E3 Numismatic Museum G6 Eleftheroudakis... 3 G6 Theatre Museum G5 Eurochange... Peloponnese 4 D3 Hellenic Society for the Study & SLEEPING Protection of the Monk Seal... 5 E2 Arion Hotel D6 Museum Internet Café... 6 E1 Athens Easy Hotel D3 Panhellenic Camping Association.. 7 F3 Athens International Youth Road Editions... 8 G4 Hostel C3 Sea Turtle Protection Society of Baby Grand Hotel D4 Greece... 9 E2 Fresh Hotel D5 Hotel Attalos D6 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Hotel Cecil D6 Athens Academy G5 Hotel Exarchion G2 Athens University G5 Church of Agii Theodori E6 EATING City of Athens Museum... Traffic 13 F6PoliceArheon Gefsis A2 Epigraphical Museum F2 Athens Central Market D5 Hellenic Cultural Centre D2 Barba Gianni's G2 National Archaeological Diporto Agoras D5 Museum F1 Food Company G3 Lavranga Peanieon Myllerou Thermopylon Plateon Kleomvrotou A Evrostinis Menedimou Kropias Polydoriou Benaki Virg Granikou Salaminos Alkippou Popliou Leof Konstandinoupoleos Sidirodromon Koloknthous Pelopos TRANSPORT Bus No 049 to Piraeus D4 Bus No 051 to Bus Terminal A.. 68 C4 Buses to Dafni and Elefsina B5 6 Buses to Moni Keramikos Kaisarianis G5 Olympic Airlines D3 OSE G5 ender Museum OSE C3 29 Ahilleos Andromahis Elefsinion Meg Alexandrou Marathonos Germanikou Keramikou Kerameon Leonidou Deligianni Giatrakou Metaxourghio Kodratou Perdika Melidoni Nisyrou Pine Akadimou ENTERTAINMENT AN Club F2 Apollon & Attikon F6 Astor F6 Asty F5 Envy D6 Hellenic Festival Box Office F5 Ideal F4 Kalua G6 Kavouras G3 National Theatre C3 Olympia Theatre F4 Rembetika Stoa Athanaton D5 Ticket House F4 SHOPPING Metropolis Music E4 To Pantopoleion E5 Xylouris Music F5 Kolonou Psiloriti lopis Odysseos Samou Leonnatou Karaoskaki Athens Municipal Art Gallery Psaromilingou B Myrrinousion Karaiskaki Kolokinthous Agisilaou Kalogirou Samouil Agion Asomaton Ag Pavlou See Gazi & Thisio Map (p101) Iasonos Dipylou Eratyras Hiou Tournavitou omaton Ag Asomaton Karaiskaki Karaiskaki Eleftherias (Koumoundourou) Myllerou Mezonos Tombazi Leokoriou Kallergi Ag. Asomaton Nikomidias SfakionThrakis Metonos Kriezi Psaron Kranaou Lepeniotou Pouqueville Karolou Epikourou Ogygou Deligeorgi Sahtouri Nika Liossion C Fruit & Vegetable Market D5 Kavouras...(see 59) Marinopoulos D4 Meat Market D5 Meintani G2 Oineas... Novotel Athens 38 C6 Rozalia G3 Taverna tou Psyrri D6 Telis C5 Vasilopoulos F6 Yiantes G3 OSE Office 73 Evmorfopoulou 46 Ellasias Paleologou K Kolonou Iliou Korinis Sarri Kritis 38 Tarella Ierotheou 23 Nikiforou Pireos (Tsaldari Panagi) Navarhou Apostoli Sapfous Palamidou Riga Agatharhou Voulgari Psyrri National Theatre 60 Ag Konstantinou Koumoundourou Ag Anargyron Agion Anargyron Taki Esopou Sahini Ag. Konstandinou Theatrou Aristofanous Sonierou Katsikogianni Vatsaxi Iroön 21 Papanikoli Sourmeli DRINKING Alekos' Island B6 Bartessera F6 Fidelio C6 Kinky D6 Magaze D6 Soul C5 Wunderbar G2 Akominatou Evripidou Favierou Tremper Victor Hugo Zinonos Ag A nargyron Mayer Menandrou Mikonos Koumoundourou Vilara Sofokleous Theatrou Karaiskaki Miaouli 40 Makedonias 32 Protogenous 55 Agias Public Toilets Vathis Ag Konstantinou Anaxagora Geraniou Theatrou Diplari Ag Dimitriou Pallados Melanthiou Fruit & Vegetable Market 34 Kakourgodikiou Eleousis idos Aharnon Xouthou 26 D Satovrianidou Sokratous Iktinou Stournara 15 Public Toilets Armodiou Kalamida Festou Kapnokoptiriou Kotopouli M Kotopouli M Klaoudatos 25 Departme 27 Kamaterou Sokratous Klisthenous Aristogeitonos Marni Athinas Aristotelous 36 Meat Market 30 Karori Omonia 71 Omonia Monastiraki Karamanou Kairi Averof Lykourgou Halkokondyli Vlahava Vyssis Solomou Kotopoulou Omonias Kotzia Agathonos Avramiotou Kratinou Voreou 48 Streit Plat Pla Streit Apellou Titania 64 Athens' Central 1Post Office ent Store teia Agias ateia 2 Ipirou 3is Septemvriou Efpolidos Central Market Eolou Flower Market Vasili Eolou iotou E Kapodistriou Evripidou Ag Markou Hrysospiliotissis Nikiou Dorou Miltiadou Polytehniou Stavrou Georgiou Sofokleous Praxitelous Evange 28 Oktovriou-Patision 65 Ag Theodoron 12 Skouleniou Romv 6 Athens Polytechnio 5 Veranzerou Gladstonos 28 Oktovriou-Patision 9 Kaningos National Archaeological 16 Museum 57 Olimpia Booknest Kauffmann Books Klafthmonos 53 Kolokotroni 45 Akadimias Leka 66 Rethymnou Stadiou Stadiou Aristidou Leoharous Kaningos Katakouzinou Sandaroza P Patron Germanou Havriou Gamveta Arsaki Nikitara Emmanuel Benaki Dragatsaniou Kolokotroni Parna sou Vas Irakliou George Pesmazoglou Klisovis F Panepistimiou (El Venizelou) Paparigopoulou Syntagma Botasi Koraï 14 Gravias Mavrokor datou Fidiou Patousa Karytsi Lada Hr Saripolou 51 Zalongou Kiafas Gennadiou G Gazi Anthimou Bouboulinas Stournara Tositsa Soultani Kolokotroni 17 National Historical Museum ulis Exarhia Themistokleous Souliou Solomou Kolleti 7 National Library Trikoupi Harilaou Xenoglosso Vivlopoleio 8 Athens University 11 Riga Fereou Athens University Panepistimio Edouardou Lo Zaimi Lontou Navarhou Apostoli Deligianni Theatre Museum 70 OSE Syntagma 72 Branch Goethe Institute Eleftheroudakis Books Pantelides Books 3 58 Tresor Virgin Megastore Koundouriotou Spyridonas Trikoupi Exarhion Tzavella Solonos Sina Tsamadou 50 G 43 Metaxa Andr Mesolongiou Asklipiou Vissarionos 19 Ikonomou 37 Omirou Kalidromiou Plapouta Zosimadon Valtetsiou Navarinou Amerikis 31 Arahovis Mavromihali Skylitsi Koundouriotou Zosimadon Ippokratous Kaplanon Akadimias Valaoritou Dervenion Koumarianou Pandora Music Shop Hellenic-American Union Soutsou Al Emmanual Benaki Kallikratous THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB 4 Kolonaki French Institute Michael Mihalakos Lykavittou Kolonaki Athens Chamber of Commerce and Industry otou Koumarianou Ersis Emmanuel Benaki Delfon sta Aftokrat Angelon Poulherias Methonis Massalias Mantzarou Anehartisias Zoodohou Pigis H Harilaou Trikoupi Didotou Solonos Prassa G Ioustinianou See Kolonaki & Ambelokipi Map (pp106 7) Strefi Hill Petsovou Eresou Lykavittou Voukourestiou Merlie Octaviou Anagnostopoulou Dimokritou Thes Poulhe H Trapezoundiou Trikoupi Harilaou Kalidromiou Statha G Dimaki P in 1 2 Hersonos Ka Ag I Patriarhou Fotiou 5 Ag. Dionysiou Skoufa Roma 3 6 Kanari D S Tsaka Pinda Ir Le M

58 See Syntagma & Monastiraki Map (pp102 3) THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB CITY Amerikis m 106 KOLONAKI & AMBELOKIPI miles 107 Kalidromiou Exarhia Arahovis Kaplanon Syntagma Ersis Themistokleous Sina Skoufa Valaoritou Didotou Delfon Akadimias A CTRY Dervenion Massalias Solonos Kriezotou 21 Mantzarou Soutsou Al Lykavittou Zalokosta 23 Parliament Building Poulherias Anehartisias Eresou Strefi Hill 6 Petsovou Zoodohou Pigis Kolonaki French Institute 36 Ag. Dionysiou 30 National Gardens Kolonaki 8 Vasilissis Sofias B Trikoupi Harilaou Dexameni Argentinis Dimokratias Ippokratous Ippokratous Merlie Octaviou Voukourestiou Statha G Merlin Roma Irinis Athineas Emmanua Sekeri Smolensky Dimokritou Tsakalof Mantzakou Isavron Tilemahou Koronis Ag Isidorou Leontos Itis Hersonos Dimaki P Kanari l Benaki Stratiotikou Syndesmou Iraklitou Sgourou Irodou Attikou Fokylidou Anagnostopoulou Kolonakiou Koumbari Frantzi Plithonos Vatatzi Agathiou Ouranou Nikiforou Vamva Neofytou Lykiou Xanthippou Glykonos Xanthou Levendi Kapsali Neofytou Douka Mourouzi Stisihorou Narsi Irodotou Stratigopoulou 5 Rigillis 19 Haralambi Sot Aheou Spefsipou Haritos 7 Apokafkon Kosma Melodou Asklipiou Asklipiou Omirou Prassa G Methonis See Omonia & Exarhia Map (pp104 5) Patriarhou Ioakeim 27 Trouman C 31 Xifiou Xenokratous 34 Ploutarhou 11 Theofilou Iosif Damaskinou Aristodimou Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias Leof Vas. Konstantinou Lykavittos Hill 37 Dante Evangelismos Rizari Benaki Pan Mavromihali Mavromihali Sarandapihou Milioni Dafnomili Vasiliou Voulgaroktonou Pindarou Evelpidos Rogakou Il Tsimiski Arianitou Meleagrou Isavron Hrysanthou Serron Patriarhou Sergiou Tsimiski Doxapatri Moraiti A Leof Vas. Georgiou Mimnermou Mavrikiou Vasiliou Voulgaroktonou Kleomenous Loukianou Kleanthous Laskareos Alopekis Digeni Akrita Romanou Melodou Ploutarhou Hoida Doras D'Istria Aristippou Karneadou Ptolemeon Papatsori Evgenikou Markou Patera I Arhelaou Grig Theologou Ypsilandou Fanarioton Kassianis Marasli Vonou Vlahopoulou D Kitsiki Nik. Souidias Megalis tou Genous Sholi Naiadon Timarhou Lambardi Argyroupoleos Leof Alexandras Leof Vas Konstantinou Merkouri Spyrou Anapiron Polemou Genadiou I 24 4 National Art Gallery Pratinou Effroniou Leof Vas. Georgiou Kosma Gerodimou Athineon Efivon Iasiou Niriidon Alkimahou Ravine Andinoros Astydamantos 1 13 Hilton 26 Madritis E Armatolon Ke Klefton Etolou Stathi Karahristou Monis Petraki Nikotsara Daskalogianni Bensi Vladimirou Ventiri K Vrasida Pitanis Megaro Moussikis Leof Vas Alexandrou Misthou Drakontos Kyrillou Loukareos Katsoni Lambrou Palingenesias Koniari Gerostathi Dimoharous Leof Vas Alexandrou Effroniou Orologa Dinokratous Hatzigia ni Mexi Eurudikis Mela Mih Panathinaikou Eleftherias Park Mihalakopoulou Thetidos Dragoumi I Orminiou Syinis Kotyeou Skopetea L Lahitos Evzonon Sisini G Pappa Ar Alyos Dioharous Degleri Kouzi Vegoritidos Venizelou Elenas Timoleondos Filimonos Filimonos I Gelonos Kokkali P Iridanou Orestiados Venizelou Elenas Megaron 38 Moussikis Dionysiou Eginitou Alkmanos Stenon Neofronos Trihonidos Koronias Kyriakou Pan Doryleou Premetis Arnis Portas Olymplianis Hrysostomou Papadopoulou 16 Agion Pandon 2 Vasilissis Sofias Lourou K Meandrou Dimitressa Klisouras Makedonon F Prousou Mileon Dimitsanas Ambelakion Ambelokipi Aldou Manoutiou Semitelou Andimahou Manoliasas Soutsou D Lampsakou Polymoshoviti Mavili Mihalakopoulou Vrazilias Devoli Ilision Vassou Potamianou Il Olytsika Vatheos Timoleontos Sevastias Alkeou Andifilou Panormou Hatzikosta Kartali Kerasoundos Biglistas Almopias Areteou Efpatori as Vournazou Hr INFORMATION Albanian Embassy... 1 E3 Aliens Bureau...(see 2) Athens Central Police Station... 2 F1 Australian Embassy... 3 G1 Canadian Embassy... 4 D5 Cypriot Embassy... 5 C5 French Embassy... 6 A5 German Embassy... 7 C5 Italian Embassy... 8 B5 Japanese Embassy... 9 G2 New Zealand Embassy B5 Scoutway C6 Serbian & Montenegrin Embassy.. 12 F3 South African Embassy E5 Turkish Embassy B6 UK Embassy C5 US Embassy F3 Laodikias 12 Ilissia Ag. Dimitriou Vatopediou Leof Alexandras Athanasiadi Papadiamandopoulou Semelis Tsoha An Pasteur Xenias Nymfeou Amaliados Oreon Pouliou Ambelokipi Pontou Kesarias Nestou Vakhylidou Lykaonias Roumelis Satomis G Germanou Karavangeli Zaharof Ag Andreas Pyrri Ang Eslin Lithakias Avlidos Lamias 3 Evangelikis Sholis Alexandroupoleos SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Benaki Museum B5 Byzantine & Christian Museum C5 Chapel of Agios Giorgios C3 Goulandris Museum of Cycladic & Ancient Greek Art B5 Hellenic-American Union A3 Lykavittos Hill C2 Museum of the History of Greek Costume A4 National Art Gallery D5 War Museum C5 SLEEPING Hilton E5 Periscope Hotel C4 St George Lycabettus Hotel B4 Zahou A Gythiou Theofanous Sinopis 9 39 Evinou Mesogion Vervenon Evrou Lykias Leof Auxentiou Grig Theofanous Leof Kifisias Fidippidou Evrota Selinoundos Lefktron Pondoiraklias Leof Stratarcou Leof Papandreou G Eueunomis Soufliou Anakreontos Gounaropoulou Argolidos Akarnanias Halkidonos Mikr Asias Theodamantos Kallistratous CTRY Etolias Oulof Palme H Viotias Mihalakopoulou Aeroporou Papanastasiou Lydias Thrugias Ag Lauras Mourkousi C Eurunomis Menonos Theodamantos Xenarcou Ag Gerasimou Avudou Taxilou Sogdianis Korinthias CITY THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB THUMB TAB 1 To National Glyptoteque (1.5km); Semiramis Hotel (15km); Attica Zoological Park (20km) Sevastoupoleos Ag Thoma Pargas 40 Viglas Rapsanis Tetrapoleos Farandaton Giannopoulou & A Crusippou Mpiskini D Maikina Sidonos Tsirkastrati Pontou Polufimou EATING Kotopoula Valsamakis B5 Marinopoulos A5 Oikeio C4 Orizontes C3 Papadakis B4 DRINKING City C4 Da Capo B5 Rosebud A4 ENTERTAINMENT Lykavittos Theatre D2 Megaron F3 Mike's Irish Bar G2 Palenque H3 TRANSPORT Funicular Railway C4 2 Agiou Thoma

59 s Leof Syngrou Andrea Makri Kallisperi See Syntagma & Monastiraki Map (pp102 3) Sikelias Atticus Theatre of Dionysos CITY THUMB A TAB B THUMB TAB C THUMB TAB D THUMB TAB E THUMB F TAB Eshinou rynihou Theorias Hadrian s Arch Leof Vas Konstantino Pa m 108 MAKRYGIANNI & KOUKAKI miles www. ATHENS Information 109 Public Toilets Zappeio Gardens 21 Leof Vas Olgas Vyronos Thrasyllou Rovertou Galli imitrios CTRY 1 Temple of Olympian Zeus Dionysiou Areopagitou 1 22 Tzireon Hotel Parthenon Akropoli Karyatidon Webster Rovertou Galli Parthenos 14 6 Garivaldi 24 8 Acropolis Museum Makrygianni Mitseon Fratti 10 Hotel Herodion Ardittou 3 25 Filopappou Hill 16 Tsokri 4 Stratigou Makrygianni Promahou Athanasiou Diakou Kaleshrou Porinou Kavalloti Angelikara Theotoki 13 Mets Falirou 2 Markou Mousourou Ratzieri Piga M Koutoula Hatzihristou Mitromara Thiramenous Zitrou Balanou K Kaliroïs Miniati Lossif Rogon Strateon Erehthiou Lembesi Petmeza Sofroniskou 15 Vourvahi 5 27 Tsami Karatasi Propyleon 2 Dikearhou Papatsoni 9 Glafkou Neri K Stratigou Rod Nezer Hr Koryzi Balanou Voulgareos Evg Athens Centre Markou Mousourou Fotiadou Gorgiou Typteou Perrevou Sorvolou Anapafseos Diamandopoulou Negri Th Drakou Harvouri Kallirroïs Nakou Donda Sp 19 7 Liakou 23 1 Alsos Longinou Aristonikou Timoleondos Falirou Timoleondos Stratigou Kondouli Gioni Botsari Markou Stathogianni Karatza Longinou Malamou Voulgareos Evg Kokkini Gargarettas Fotakou Mouson Theofilopoulou 17 Zaharitsa 11 Razikotzika Ag. Pandeleimonos Kallirrois Dikeou Trivonianou Defner toliou Karea Efpompou Paraskevopoulou Margariti Diliados Lazeon Sismani Stratigou Kondouli Tsami Karatasi Ambati 3 Mavrovounioti 3 Kynosargous Dimitrakopoulou N Veikou Fivou Menehmou Iras Argyriou Goufie Iolis Leof Vouliagmenis Inglesi Alkimou Vrisiidos Aglaonikis Theokritou Andimahidou Botsari Tousa Syngrou-Fix Zefxidos Fotomara Botsari Noti Orlof Dexileo Irakleous Botsari Tousa Apollodorou Theokritou Vyzandiou Hr Pytheou Vounasera Tymfristou 12 Koukaki Sehou D Kelsou 2 On the Road F1 Small Music Theatre B2 Vitrine F1 Herodion C1 Hotel Tony A3 Marble House Pension B3 Philippos Hotel C2 INFORMATION Tourist Police... B2 1 Pandopoulou Lahouri Kallirroïs Leof Syngrou Andrea 26 Zini Theonos Athens' First Cemetery Menekratous Menonos Dinostratou Ilioupoleos TRANSPORT EATING Strofi B1 Metagenous Zan Moreas Yvriou Terpandrou Evdohou SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Athens' First Cemetery... F4 GO Tours... D2 Key Tours... D2 Monument of Filoppapos... A2 Botsari Markou Vrytou Falirou Androutsou Od 4 Theodorou Geometrou 4 Angylis Argyri Anagnosti Arkesilaou Mysonos D Avis D1 Budget D1 Europcar C2 Hertz D1 Motorent C2 Olympic Airlines B4 Sixt D2 DRINKING Hatzipetrou Theodoritou Vresthenis Olymbiou Granazi D2 Lamda Club D2 Klada Andisthenous Tharypou Meindani Agathokleous Pnytagora Timoxenou Artemonos ENTERTAINMENT Half Note Jazz Club E3 Ekateou Roikou SLEEPING Acropolis View... B1 Art Gallery Hotel... B2 Athens Backpackers... D1 Hera Hotel... C2 Sostratou Hatzimihali Lassani Frantzi Amvrosiou Aglavrou Kazantzi Lysimahias (Continued from page 99) Police (%100) Tourist police (Map p108 ; 24hr %171, ; Veïkou 43-45, Koukaki; h8am-10pm) Visitor Emergency Assistance (%112) Toll-free 24hr service in English or French. Internet Access Most midrange and top-end hotels have inroom internet access. There are free wireless hot spots at Syntagma, Gazi and the Port of Piraeus (more neighbourhoods were coming online), as well as in Starbucks cafés and some McDonald s. Internet cafés around the city centre charge 2 to 4 per hour. Bits & Bytes Internet Café (Map pp102-3 ; Kapnikareas 19; per hr 3; h24hr) Cyberzone (Map pp104-5 ;% ; Satovrianidou 7, Omonia; per hr 2;h24hr) Cheaper rates of 1.50 per hour apply between midnight and 8am. Ivis Internet (Map pp102-3 ; Mitropoleos 3, Syntagma; per hr 3; h24hr) Museum Internet Café (Map pp104-5 ; % ; 28 Oktovriou-Patision 46, Omonia; per hr 4.40; h10am-2am Mon-Fri, 11am-2am Sat & Sun) Next to the National Archaeological Museum. Internet Resources www. athenstourism.gr A handy site from the Athens Tourism and Economic Development Agency. City of Athens site with walks, events and other useful information. The revamped Ministry of Culture guide to museums, archaeological sites and cultural events around Greece. Laundry Plaka Laundrette (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Angelou Geronta 10, Plaka; wash & dry 5kg 9; h8am- 7pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1pm Sun) Left Luggage Many hotels will store luggage free for guests, although most do no more than pile the bags in a hallway. You ll find left-luggage facilities at the airport and at the metro stations at Omonia, Monastiraki and Piraeus. Pacific Travel Luggage Storage (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Nikis 26, Syntagma; per day 2; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat) Media Athens News ( Published every Friday; provides entertainment listings. Insider Monthly magazine aimed at visitors and foreigners living in Greece. Kathimerini ( The International Herald Tribune publishes an eight-page English-language edition of this Greek daily, with news, arts, cinema listings and daily ferry schedules. Odyssey ( Bimonthly Greek diaspora magazine; publishes an annual summer guide to Athens. Medical Services Ambulance/First-Aid Advice (%166) Duty Doctors & Hospitals (%1434 in Greek) Published in Kathimerini. Pharmacies (%1434 in Greek) Check pharmacy windows for notice of nearest duty pharmacy. There is a 24-hour pharmacy at the airport. SOS Doctors (%1016, ; h24hr) Pay service with English-speaking doctors. Money Most major banks have branches around Syntagma and there are ATMs all over the city. Standard bank opening hours are 8am to 2.30pm Monday to Thursday and 8am to 2pm on Friday, though some private banks open certain branches until 8pm weekdays and on Saturday. American Express (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Ermou 7, Syntagma; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) Eurochange Syntagma (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Karageorgi Servias 2, Syntagma; h8am-9pm); Omonia (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Kotopoulou 1) Exchanges Thomas Cook travellers cheques without commission. National Bank of Greece (Map pp102-3 ; % ; cnr Karageorgi Servias & Stadiou, Syntagma) Has a 24-hour automatic exchange machine. Post Athens Central post office (Map pp104-5 ; Eolou 100, Omonia; h7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-2pm Sat) Unless specified otherwise, all poste restante is sent here. Parcel post office (Map pp102-3 ; Nikis 33, Syntagma; h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Parcels weighing over 2kg must be taken here, unwrapped, for inspection. Syntagma post office (Map pp102-3 ; Syntagma; h7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-2pm Sat) Telephone Public phones all over Athens allow local, long distance and international calls. They only take phonecards, which are available at kiosks. Toilets Public toilets are relatively scarce in Athens and keep inconsistent hours, though there ATHENS & ATTICA

60 110 ATHENS Dangers & Annoyances www. www. ATHENS Sights 111 ATHENS & ATTICA are 24-hour portable, self-cleaning pay toilets ( 0.50) around the centre. Fast-food outlets are also handy and cafés will normally let you use their facilities. Big hotels are also a safe bet. Tourist Information EOT Syntagma (Greek National Tourist Organisation; Map pp102-3 ; % ; Amalias 26a, Syntagma; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun); Airport (% ; Arrivals Hall; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun) Has a handy free map of Athens, weekly ferry timetables and public transport information. You can also pick up a free copy of the glossy Athens & Attica booklet. Tourist police (%171; h24hr) General tourist information and emergency help. DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Athens has its fair share of the problems found in all major cities but is considered one of the safest capitals in Europe. Violent street crime remains very rare, but travellers should be alert to the traps listed here. Pickpockets The favourite hunting grounds for pickpockets are the metro system and the crowded streets around Omonia, particularly Athinas, and the Monastiraki flea market. Scams BAR SCAMS Many unsuspecting travellers have been taken in by the various bar scams that operate around central Athens, particularly around Syntagma. One scam runs something like this: friendly Greek approaches solo male traveller and asks for the time or where he is from; friendly Greek then reveals that he, too, is from out of town or does the old Ah, I have a cousin in Australia routine and suggests they go to a bar for a drink. Before they know it women appear and more drinks are ordered and the conman disappears. The women are not prostitutes, but the traveller is left to pay an exorbitant bill, which is when the smiles disappear and the atmosphere turns threatening. Other bars lure intoxicated males with talk of sex and present them with outrageous bills. TAXI TOUTS Taxi drivers working in league with some of the overpriced C-class hotels around Omonia are another problem, though it s not widespread. The scam involves taxi drivers picking up late-night arrivals and persuading them that the hotel they want to go to is full even if they have a booking. The taxi driver will pretend to phone the hotel, announce that it s full and suggest an alternative. Ask to speak to the hotel yourself, or simply insist on going where you want to go. TRAVEL AGENTS Some travel agents in the Plaka/Syntagma area employ touts to promote cheap packages to the islands. These touts hang out at the bus and metro stops hoping to find naive new arrivals, who they take back to the agency, where slick salespeople pressure them into buying outrageously overpriced packages. There is no need to buy a package; you will always be able to negotiate a better deal yourself when you get to the island of your choice. If you are worried that everywhere will be full, select a place from the pages of this guide and make your own booking. Slippery Surfaces Many of Athens pavements and other surfaces underfoot are made of marble and become incredibly slippery when wet, so tread carefully if you are caught in the rain. Spiked Drinks Some bars and clubs in Athens serve what are locally known as bombes, adulterated drinks that have been diluted with cheap illegal imports resembling brand-name spirits. These drinks can leave you feeling very worse for wear the next day. One way to avoid the risk is to drink beer and alcoholic drinks that are bottled, or ensure that you ask for a drink with a distinctive taste, or name your brand. Taxi Drivers Athenian taxi drivers have an awful reputation and it is certainly not entirely undeserved most locals and tourists alike will have horror rip-off stories to report. The standards of the city s taxis and their driver s manners have improved dramatically overall. However, it is still a bit of a toss-up whether you get polite, efficient and honest service or one of the nasty ones. Beware, it s often the friendly ones that are the worst offenders. Most (but not all) rip-offs involve taxis picked up late at night from the taxi ranks at the airport, the train stations, the bus termi- nals and the port of Piraeus. Some drivers at these ranks don t like to bother with the meter and demand whatever they think they can get away with and refuse to take you if you insist on using the meter. Only negotiate a set fare if you have some idea of the cost, but you are better off finding another taxi and getting the driver s details to report them to the tourist police. At Piraeus, avoid the drivers at the port exit asking if you need a taxi it s better to hail one off the street further away. In extreme cases, drivers have accelerated meters or switch them to night rate (tariff 2 lights up) during the day. Some will also often add their tip to the price they quote. Check the extra charges for airport pick-ups and tolls, which are set and must be displayed in every taxi. The best way to protect yourself is to record the taxi s number plates and ask for a receipt they are obligated to provide one and most have electronic receipt machines installed (though many do not work). If you do have a dispute, call the police (%100), insist the driver takes you to the local police station to sort it out, or take the driver and taxi s registration number and report them to the tourist police. SIGHTS The Acropolis The Acropolis (Map p112 ; % ; adult/concession 12/6; h8am-7pm Apr-Oct, 8am-5pm Nov-Mar; w) is the most important ancient site in the Western world. Crowned by the Parthenon, it stands sentinel over Athens, visible from almost everywhere within the city. Its monuments of Pentelic marble gleam white in the midday sun and gradually take on a honey hue as the sun sinks, while at night they hover above the city brilliantly illuminated. The sudden glimpse of this magnificent sight cannot fail to lift your spirits. Inspiring as these monuments are, they are but faded remnants of Pericles city. Pericles spared no expense only the best materials, architects, sculptors and artists were good enough for a city dedicated to the cult of Athena. The city was a showcase of colossal buildings, lavishly coloured, and of gargantuan statues, some of bronze, others of marble plated with gold and encrusted with precious stones. There are several approaches to the site. The main approach from Plaka is along the path that is a continuation of Dioskouron. From the south, you can walk along Dionysiou Areopagitou to the path just beyond the Odeon of Herodes Atticus to get to the main entrance or you can go through the Theatre of Dionysos entrance near the Akropoli metro station, and wind your way up from there. Anyone carrying a backpack or large bag (including camera bags) can only enter from the main entrance, where you must leave your bags at the cloakroom. Get here as early as possible, or go late in the afternoon, as it gets incredibly crowded. Wear shoes with good soles because the paths around the site are uneven and slippery. The Acropolis is now accessible to people in wheelchairs, with a cage lift rising vertically up the rock face on the northern side. People needing assistance should present at the main entrance. The Acropolis admission includes entry to other sites (see boxed text, p117 ). HISTORY The Acropolis (high city) was first inhabited in Neolithic times. The first temples were built during the Mycenaean era in homage to the goddess Athena. People lived on the Acropolis until the late 6th century BC, but in 510 BC the Delphic oracle declared that it should be the province of the gods. After all the buildings on the Acropolis were reduced to ashes by the Persians on the eve of the Battle of Salamis (480 BC), Pericles set about his ambitious rebuilding programme. He transformed the Acropolis into a city of temples, which has come to be regarded as the zenith of classical Greek achievement. Ravages inflicted upon them during the years of foreign occupation, pilfering by foreign archaeologists, inept renovations following Independence, visitors footsteps and earthquakes have all taken their toll on the surviving monuments. The worst blow was in 1687 when the Venetians attacked the Turks and opened fire on the Acropolis, causing an explosion in the Parthenon, where the Turks were storing gunpowder. The resulting fire blazed for two days, damaging all the buildings. The most recent menace is acid rain, which is caused by industrial pollution and traffic fumes, which is dissolving the very marble of which the monuments are built. Major ATHENS & ATTICA

61 112 ATHENS Sights www. www. ATHENS Sights 113 ATHENS & ATTICA ACROPOLIS 1 To Thisio (750m) 2 3 A Theorias To Roman Agora (250m); Ancient Agora (300m); Plaka (500m) Wheelchair Access Main Entrance Altar of Rome & Augustus... 1 C1 Asclepion... 2 C2 Beulé Gate... 3 B1 Entrance Court... 4 B1 Erechtheion... 5 C1 Monument of Agrippa... 6 B1 Odeon of Herodes Atticus... 7 B2 Panagia Hrysospiliotissa... 8 C2 restoration programmes are continuing in an effort to save the monuments for future generations. The Acropolis has World Heritage Site status. BEULÉ GATE & MONUMENT OF AGRIPPA Once inside the site, a little way along the path, on your left you will see the Beulé Gate, named after the French archaeologist Ernest Beulé, who uncovered it in The 8m pedestal on the left, halfway up the zigzag ramp leading to the Propylaia, was once topped by the Monument of Agrippa, a bronze statue of the Roman general riding a chariot. Now destroyed, it was erected in 27 BC to commemorate victory in a chariot race at the Panathenaic games. PROPYLAIA The Propylaia formed the towering entrance to the Acropolis in ancient times. Built by Mnesicles between 437 BC and 432 BC, its architectural brilliance ranks with that of the Parthenon. It consists of a central hall, with two wings on either side. Each section had a gate, and in ancient times these five B Lift 10 Parthenon... 9 C2 Porch of the Caryatids C1 Propylaia B1 Statue of Athena Promachos.. 12 B1 Stoa of Eumenes C2 Temple of Athena Nike B2 Theatre of Dionysos D3 Wall of Cimon D m miles 5 C Panathenaic Way 9 2 Lift 8 1 Dionysiou Areopagitou gates were the only entrances to the upper city. The middle gate (which was the largest) opened onto the Panathenaic Way. The western portico of the Propylaia must indeed have been imposing, consisting of six double columns, Doric on the outside and Ionic on the inside. The fourth column along has been restored. The ceiling of the central hall was painted with gold stars on a dark-blue background. The northern wing was used as a pinakothiki (art gallery) and the south wing was the antechamber to the Temple of Athena Nike. The Propylaia is aligned with the Parthenon the earliest example of a building designed in relation to another. It remained intact until the 13th century, when various occupiers started adding to it. It was badly damaged in the 17th century when a lightning strike set off an explosion in a Turkish gunpowder store. Archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann paid for the removal of one of its appendages a Frankish tower in the 19th century. Reconstruction took place between 1909 and 1917, and there was further restoration after WWII. 15 D 16 To Akropoli Metro Station (200m); Syntagma (750m) PANATHENAIC WAY The Panathenaic Way, which cuts across the middle of the Acropolis, was the route taken by the Panathenaic procession the climax of the Panathenaia festival held to venerate the goddess Athena. There were actually two festivals: the Lesser Panathenaic Festival took place annually on Athena s birthday, and the Great Panathenaic Festival was held on every fourth anniversary of the goddess s birth. The Great Panathenaic Festival began with dancing, followed by athletic, dramatic and musical contests. The Panathenaic procession, which took place on the final day of the festival, began at Keramikos and ended at the Erechtheion. Men carrying animals sacrificed to Athena headed the procession, followed by maidens carrying rhytons (horn-shaped drinking vessels). Behind them musicians played a fanfare for the girls of noble birth who followed, proudly holding aloft the sacred peplos (a glorious saffron-coloured shawl). At the rear were old men bearing olive branches. The procession s grand finale was the placing of the peplos on the statue of Athena Polias in the Erechtheion. TEMPLE OF ATHENA NIKE The exquisitely proportioned little Temple of Athena Nike once stood on a platform perched atop the steep southwest edge of the Acropolis, to the right of the Propylaia. It may well be there by the time you read this, but the temple was dismantled piece by piece in 2003 in a controversial move to restore it offsite. It was supposed to be back in time for the Olympics, but only parts had reappeared at the time of research. Designed by Callicrates, the temple was built of Pentelic marble between 427 BC and 424 BC. The building is almost square, with four graceful Ionic columns at either end. Only fragments remain of the frieze, which had scenes from mythology on the east and south sides, and scenes from the Battle of Plataea (479 BC) and Athenians fighting Boeotians and Persians on the other sides. Parts of the frieze are in the Acropolis Museum ( p115 ), as are some relief sculptures, including the beautiful sculpture of Athena Nike fastening her sandal. The temple housed a statue of the goddess Athena. This is the third time the temple has been dismantled. The Turks took it apart in 1686 and put a huge cannon on the platform. It was carefully reconstructed between 1836 and 1842, but was taken apart 50 years later because the platform was crumbling. STATUE OF ATHENA PROMACHOS Continuing ahead along the Panathenaic Way you will see, to your left, the foundations of pedestals for the statues that once lined the path, including one that held Pheidias 9mhigh statue of Athena Promachos (promachos means champion ). Symbolising Athenian invincibility against the Persians, the helmeted goddess held a shield in her left hand and a spear in her right. The statue was carted off to Constantinople by Emperor Theodosius in AD 426. By 1204 it had lost its spear, so the hand appeared to be gesturing. This led the inhabitants to believe that the statue had beckoned the crusaders to the city, so they smashed it to pieces. PARTHENON The Parthenon is the monument that more than any other epitomises the glory of ancient Greece. Parthenon means virgin s apartment. This is the largest Doric temple ever completed in Greece, and the only one built completely (apart from its wooden roof) of Pentelic marble. Built on the highest part of the Acropolis, the Parthenon had a dual purpose to house the great statue of Athena commissioned by Pericles, and to serve as the new treasury. It was built on the site of at least four earlier temples dedicated to the worship of Athena. It was designed by Ictinus and Callicrates, under the surveillance of Pheidias, to be the pre-eminent monument of the Acropolis. Building began in 447 BC and was completed in time for the Great Panathenaic Festival of 438 BC. The temple consisted of eight fluted Doric columns at either end and 17 on each side. To achieve perfect form, its lines were ingeniously curved to create an optical illusion the foundations are slightly concave and the columns are slightly convex to make both look straight. Supervised by Pheidias, the sculptors Agoracritos and Alcamenes worked on the pediments and the sculpted sections of the frieze (metopes), which were brightly coloured and gilded. There were 92 metopes, 44 statues and a frieze, which went all the way around. The metopes on the eastern side depicted Athenians fighting gigantions (giants), and on the western side they showed Theseus leading ATHENS & ATTICA

62 114 ATHENS Sights www. www. ATHENS Sights 115 ATHENS & ATTICA the Athenians into battle against the Amazons. Those on the southern side represented the contest of the Lapiths and Centaurs at the marriage feast of Pierithoös. An Ionic frieze 159.5m long ran all around the Parthenon. Much of it was damaged in the explosion of 1687, but the greatest existing part (over 75m) consists of the much-publicised Parthenon Marbles, now in the British Museum in London. The British government continues to scorn Greek requests for their return. The ceiling of the Parthenon, like that of the Propylaia, was painted blue and gilded with stars. At the eastern end was the holy cella (inner room of a temple), into which only a few privileged initiates could enter. Here stood the statue for which the temple was built the Athena Polias (Athena of the City) considered one of the wonders of the ancient world. Designed by Pheidias and completed in 432 BC, it was gold plated over an inner wooden frame, and stood almost 12m high on its pedestal. The face, hands and feet were made of ivory, and the eyes were fashioned from jewels. The goddess was clad in a long dress of gold with the head of Medusa carved in ivory on her breast. In her right hand, she held a statuette of Nike (the goddess of victory) and in her left a spear; at the base of the spear was a serpent. She wore a helmet, on top of which was a sphinx with griffins in relief at either side. In AD 426 the statue was taken to Constantinople, where it disappeared. There is a Roman copy (the Athena Varvakeion) in the National Archaeological Museum ( p120 ). ERECHTHEION Although the Parthenon was the most impressive monument of the Acropolis, it was more of a showpiece than a sanctuary. That role fell to the Erechtheion, built on the part of the Acropolis held most sacred. It was here that Poseidon struck the ground with his trident and where Athena produced the olive tree (see p95 ). Named after Erichthonius, a mythical king of Athens, the temple housed the cults of Athena, Poseidon and Erichthonius. The Erechtheion is immediately recognisable by the six larger-than-life maiden columns that support its southern portico, the muchphotographed Caryatids. They are so called because the models for them were women from Karyai (modern-day Karyes) in Lakonia. Those you see are plaster casts. The originals (except for one removed by Lord Elgin) are in the Acropolis Museum ( opposite ). The Erechtheion was part of Pericles plan, but the project was postponed after the outbreak of the Peloponnesian Wars, and work did not start until 421 BC, eight years after his death. It is thought to have been completed in 406 BC. The Erechtheion is architecturally the most unusual monument of the Acropolis, a supreme example of Ionic architecture. Ingeniously built on several levels to counteract the unevenness of the ground, it consists of three basic parts the main temple, northern porch and southern porch all with different dimensions. The main temple is of the Ionic order and is divided into two cellae one dedicated to Athena, the other to Poseidon representing a reconciliation of the two deities after their contest. In Athena s cella stood an olive-wood statue of Athena Polias holding a shield on which was a gorgon s head. The statue was illuminated by a golden lantern placed at its feet. It was this statue on which the sacred peplos was placed at the culmination of the Great Panathenaic Festival. The northern porch consists of six graceful Ionic columns; on the floor are the fissures supposedly cleft by Poseidon s trident. This porch leads into the Temenos of Pandrossos, where, according to mythology, the sacred olive brought forth by Athena grew. To the south of here was the Cecropion King Cecrops burial place. Southern Slope of the Acropolis THEATRE OF DIONYSOS The importance of theatre in the Athenian city-state can be gauged from the dimensions of the enormous Theatre of Dionysos on the southeastern slope of the Acropolis. The first theatre on this site was a timber structure erected sometime during the 6th century BC, after the tyrant Peisistratos introduced the Festival of the Great Dionysia. Everyone attended the contests, where men clad in goatskins sang and performed dances, which were followed by feasting and revelry. During the golden age in the 5th century BC, the annual festival was one of the major events on the calendar. Politicians would sponsor dramas by writers such as Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripides, with some light relief provided by the bawdy comedies of Aristophanes. People came from all over Attica, with their expenses met by the state. The theatre was reconstructed in stone and marble by Lycurgus between 342 BC and 326 BC, with a seating capacity of 17,000 spread over 64 tiers, of which about 20 survive. Apart from the front row, the seats were built of Piraeus limestone and were occupied by ordinary citizens, although women were confined to the back rows. The front row had 67 thrones built of Pentelic marble, which were reserved for festival officials and important priests. The grandest was in the centre and reserved for the Priest of Dionysos, who sat shaded from the sun under a canopy. His seat can be identified by well-preserved lion-claw feet at either side. In Roman times, the theatre was also used for state events and ceremonies, as well as for performances. The reliefs at the rear of the stage, mostly of headless figures, depict the exploits of Dionysos and date from the 2nd century BC. The two hefty, hunched-up guys who have managed to keep their heads are selini, worshippers of the mythical Selinos, the debauched father of the satyrs, whose chief attribute seems to have been an oversized phallus. His favourite pastime was charging up mountains in lecherous pursuit of nymphs. He was also Dionysos mentor. ASCLEPION & STOA OF EUMENES Directly above the Theatre of Dionysos, wooden steps lead up to a pathway. On the left at the top of the steps is the Asclepion, which was built around a sacred spring. The worship of Asclepius, the physician son of Apollo, began in Epidavros and was introduced to Athens in 429 BC at a time when plague was sweeping the city. Beneath the Asclepion is the Stoa of Eumenes, a colonnade built by Eumenes II, King of Pergamum ( BC), as a shelter and promenade for theatre audiences. ODEON OF HERODES ATTICUS The path continues west from the Asclepion to the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, built in 161. Herodes Atticus was a wealthy Roman who built the theatre in memory of his wife Regilla. It was excavated in and completely restored between 1950 and There are performances of drama, music and dance here during the Hellenic Festival ( p130 ). The theatre is open to the public only during performances. PANAGIA HRYSOSPILIOTISSA Above the Theatre of Dionysos, you will see an indistinct rock-strewn path leading to a grotto in the cliff face. In 320 BC Thrasyllos turned the grotto into a temple dedicated to Dionysos. The tiny Panagia Hrysospiliotissa (Chapel of our Lady of the Cavern) is now a poignant little place with old pictures and icons on the walls. Above the chapel are two Ionic columns, the remains of Thrasyllos temple. Acropolis Museum The long-awaited new Acropolis Museum (Map pp102-3 ;% ; Makrygianni 2-4; h8am-7pm Apr-Oct, 8am-5pm Nov-Mar) was to open by 2008 on a massive site at the southern base of the Acropolis. Construction of the museum was plagued by legal action and delays after the excavation uncovered the remains of an Athenian city dating back to prehistoric times. The impressive ruins have been incorporated into the design, with around 2000 sq metres of the old city on display in the basement through a series of elevated walkways and glass floors. Designed by leading architect Bernard Tschumi, the museum will bring together all the surviving treasures of the Acropolis, including ANCIENT PROMENADE The once traffic-choked polluted streets around Athens historic centre have been transformed into a spectacular 3km pedestrian promenade connecting the city s most significant ancient sites. Locals and tourists alike delight in an evening volta (walk) along the grand promenade one of Europe s longest pedestrian precincts under the floodlit Acropolis. Ancient Athens is also seen in a new light, thanks to the brilliant illumination of the Acropolis and key monuments by French designer Pierre Bideau. The grand promenade starts at Dionysiou Areopagitou, opposite the Temple of Olympian Zeus, and continues along the southern foothills of the Acropolis, all the way to the Ancient Agora, branching off from Thisio to Keramikos and north along Adrianou to the Roman Agora, Monastiraki and Plaka. ATHENS & ATTICA

63 116 RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS Sights Runningsubhead www. www. RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS RunningSubhead Sights 117 ATHENS & ATTICA ANCIENT AGORA 1 2 A Agora Museum... (see 11) Altar of the Twelve Gods... 1 C1 Church of the Holy Apostles... 2 D2 Entrance... 3 C1 Metroön... 4 C2 Middle Stoa... 5 C2 Mosaic showing reconstruction of Agora... 6 C1 New Bouleuterion... 7 C1 Odeon of Agrippa... 8 C2 Plan of Site... 9 B2 Sewer C2 Stoa of Attalos D1 Stoa of Basileios C1 Stoa of the Giants C1 Stoa of Zeus Eleutherios C1 Stoa Poikile C1 Temple of Apollo C1 Temple of Ares C1 Temple of Hephaestus B1 Tholos C2 those transferred from the old museum up on the Acropolis, as well as pieces from other Athenian museums and storage facilities. The top-floor Parthenon Gallery has been designed to showcase the temple s frieze, sculptures and metopes. There are empty spaces for the missing pieces the controversial Parthenon Marbles currently residing in the British Museum that were hacked off by Lord Elgin in The pieces that escaped Lord Elgin s clutches depict the Olympians at the Panathenaic procession. A glass atrium will allow you to see the Acropolis while you view the exhibits, though the latest controversy involved the demolition of two historic buildings to make this view unobstructed. The museum collection (formerly in the on-site museum) includes finds from the temples predating the Parthenon and destroyed by the Persians, notably the pedimental sculptures of Heracles slaying the Lernaian Hydra and of a lioness devouring a bull. Prize exhibits are the 6th-century-BC Kore (maiden) statues, uncovered from a pit on the Acropolis, where the Athenians buried them after the Battle of Salamis. The statues were votives dedicated to Athena, each one holding an offering to the goddess. The earliest of these Kore statues are quite stiff and formal in comparison with the later ones, which have flowing robes and elaborate headdresses. Other highlights include the relief of Athena Nike adjusting her sandal, as well as four of B m miles C Adrianou Panathenaic Way the five surviving Caryatids, from the Erechtheion. The fifth is in the British Museum. Ancient Agora Athens meeting place in ancient times was the Agora (Map p116 ; % ; Adrianou; adult/ concession 4/2). It was the focal point of administrative, commercial, political and social activity. All roads led to the Agora, and it was a lively, crowded place. Socrates spent a lot of time here expounding his philosophy, and in AD 49 St Paul disputed daily in the Agora, intent upon winning converts to Christianity. The site was first developed in the 6th century BC. It was devastated by the Persians in 480 BC, but a new agora was built in its place almost immediately. It was flourishing by Pericles time and continued to do so until AD 267, when it was destroyed by the Herulians, a Gothic tribe from Scandinavia. The Turks built a residential quarter on the site, but this was demolished by archaeologists after Independence. If they d had their way, the archaeologists would have also knocked down the whole of Plaka, which was also Turkish. The area has been excavated to classical and, in parts, Neolithic levels. The main monuments are the Temple of Hephaestus, the Stoa of Attalos and the Church of the Holy Apostles. The site is bounded by Areopagus Hill in the south, the Athens Piraeus metro Line to the north, Plaka to the east and Apostolou Pavlou to the west. There are several 2 D To Syntagma (1.5km) Vrissakiou Kladon Peikilis Taxiarhon entrances, but the most convenient is the northern entrance from Adrianou. STOA OF ATTALOS The Agora Museum, in the reconstructed Stoa of Attalos, is a good place to start to make sense of the site. The museum opens later on Monday (11am) and has a model of the Agora as well as a collection of finds from the site. The original stoa was built by King Attalos II of Pergamum ( BC). Two storeys high with two aisles, it housed expensive shops and was a popular stamping ground for wealthy Athenians. People also gathered here to watch the Panathenaic procession. It was authentically reconstructed between 1953 and 1956 by the American School of Archaeology. The reconstruction deviates from the original in only one detail: the façade has been left in natural Pentelic marble, but it was originally painted red and blue. The stoa has a series of 45 columns that are Doric on the ground floor and Ionic on the upper gallery. TEMPLE OF HEPHAESTUS This temple on the western edge of the Agora was surrounded by foundries and metalwork shops, and was dedicated to Hephaestus, god of the forge. It was one of the first buildings of Pericles rebuilding programme and is the best-preserved Doric temple in Greece. Built in 449 BC by Ictinus, one of the architects of the Parthenon, it has 34 columns and a frieze on the eastern side depicting nine of the Twelve Labours of Heracles. In AD 1300 it was converted into the Church of Agios Georgios. The last service held here was on 13 December 1834 in honour of King Otho s arrival in Athens. Unlike the Parthenon, the monument doesn t evoke a sense of wonder, but it s impressive enough nonetheless. To the northeast of the temple are the foundations of the Stoa of Zeus Eleutherios, one of the places where Socrates expounded his philosophy. Further north are the foundations of the Stoa of Basileios and the Stoa Poikile (Painted Stoa), both currently inaccessible to the public. The Stoa Poikile was so called because of its murals, which were painted by the leading artists of the day and depicted mythological and historical battles. To the southeast of the Temple of Hephaestus was the New Bouleuterion (Council House), where the Senate (originally created by Solon) met, while the heads of government met to the south at the circular Tholos. CHURCH OF THE HOLY APOSTLES This charming little church, which stands near the southern entrance, was built in the early 10th century to commemorate St Paul s teaching in the Agora. Between 1954 and 1957 it was stripped of its 19th-century additions and restored to its original form. It contains some fine Byzantine frescoes. Keramikos The city s cemetery from the 12th century BC to Roman times was Keramikos (Map p101 ; % ; Ermou 148, Keramikos; adult/concession incl museum 2/1; h8am-7.30pm Apr-Oct, 8am-5.30pm Nov-Mar). It was discovered in 1861 during the construction of Pireos, the street that leads to Piraeus. It is one of the most green and tranquil of Athens ancient sites. SACRED & DIPYLON GATES Once inside the site, head for the small knoll ahead and to the right, where you ll find a plan of the site. A path leads down to the right from the knoll to the remains of the city wall, which was built by Themistocles in 479 BC, and rebuilt by Konon in 394 BC. The wall is broken by the foundations of two gates. Tiny signs mark each one. The first, the Sacred Gate, spanned the Sacred Way and was the one by which pilgrims from Eleusis entered the city during the annual Eleusian procession. The second, the Dipylon Gate, to the northeast of the Sacred Gate, was the city s main entrance and where SIX FOR THE PRICE OF ONE The 12 Acropolis admission includes entry to the main ancient sites: Ancient Agora, Roman Agora, Keramikos, Temple of Olympian Zeus, and the Theatre of Dionysos. The ticket is valid for four days; otherwise individual site fees apply, though this is not enforced. The same opening hours (8am to 7pm April to October, 8am to 5.30pm November to May) apply for all of these sites, but it pays to double-check as sometimes winter hours and summer hours can vary. There is free entrance to the sites on the first Sunday of the month (except for July and August). ATHENS & ATTICA

64 118 RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS Sights Runningsubhead www. www. RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS RunningSubhead Sights 119 ATHENS & ATTICA the Panathenaic procession began. It was also the stamping ground of the city s prostitutes, who gathered there to offer their services to jaded travellers. From a platform outside the Dipylon Gate, Pericles gave his famous speech extolling the virtues of Athens and honouring those who died in the first year of the Peloponnesian Wars stirring many more to battle and ultimately their deaths. Between the Sacred and the Dipylon gates are the foundations of the Pompeion, used as a dressing room for participants in the Panathenaic procession. STREET OF TOMBS Leading off the Sacred Way to the left as you head away from the city is the Street of Tombs. This avenue was reserved for the tombs of Athens most prominent citizens. The surviving stelae are now in the National Archaeological Museum ( p120 ), and what you see are replicas. The astonishing array of funerary monuments, and their bas reliefs, warrant more than a cursory examination. Ordinary citizens were buried in the areas bordering the Street of Tombs. One well-preserved stele shows a little girl with her pet dog. You will find it by going up the stone steps on the northern side of the Street of Tombs. The site s largest stele, that of sisters Demetria and Pamphile, is on the path running from the southeast corner of the Street of Tombs. ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM OF KERAMIKOS The site s small museum was established by its benefactor, Gustav Oberlaender, a German-American stocking manufacturer. It contains stelae and sculptures from the site, as well as a good collection of vases and terracotta figurines. Roman Athens TOWER OF THE WINDS & ROMAN AGORA The entrance to the Roman Agora (Map pp102-3 ; % ; cnr Pelopida & Eolou; adult/concession 2/1; h8am-7.30pm Apr-Oct, 8am-5.30pm Nov-Mar) is through the well-preserved Gate of Athena Archegetis, which is flanked by four Doric columns. It was erected sometime during the 1st century AD and financed by Julius Caesar. The rest of the Roman Agora appears to the layperson as little more than a heap of rubble. To the right of the entrance are the foundations of a 1st-century public latrine. In the southeast area are the foundations of a propylon and a row of shops. The well-preserved Tower of the Winds (Map pp102 3 ) was built in the 1st century BC by a Syrian astronomer named Andronicus. The octagonal monument of Pentelic marble is an ingenious construction that functioned as a sundial, weather vane, water clock and compass. Each side represents a point of the compass, and has a relief of a figure floating through the air, which depicts the wind associated with that particular point. Beneath each of the reliefs are the faint markings of sundials. The weather vane, which disappeared long ago, was a bronze Triton that revolved on top of the tower. The Turks allowed dervishes to use the tower. HADRIAN S ARCH The Roman emperor Hadrian had a great affection for Athens. Although he did his fair share of spiriting its classical artwork to Rome, he also embellished the city with many monuments influenced by classical architecture. Grandiose as these monuments are, they lack the refinement and artistic flair of their classical predecessors. Hadrian s Arch (Map pp102 3 ) is a lofty monument of Pentelic marble that stands where busy Leoforos Vasilissis Olgas and Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias meet. It was erected by Hadrian in AD 132, probably to commemorate the consecration of the Temple of Olympian Zeus ( below ). The inscriptions show that it was also intended as a dividing point between the ancient city and the Roman city. The northwest frieze bears the inscription This is Athens, the Ancient city of Theseus, while the southeast frieze states This is the city of Hadrian, and not of Theseus. TEMPLE OF OLYMPIAN ZEUS This is the largest temple (Map pp102-3 ; % ; adult/concession 2/1; h8am-7.30pm Apr-Oct, 8am-5.30pm Nov-Mar) in Greece. The temple was begun in the 6th century BC by Peisistratos, but was abandoned for lack of funds. Various other leaders had stabs at completing the temple, but it was left to Hadrian to complete the work in AD 131. It took more than 700 years to build. The temple is impressive for the sheer size of its 104 Corinthian columns (17m high with a base diameter of 1.7m), of which 15 remain the fallen column was blown down in a gale in Hadrian put a colossal statue of Zeus in the cella and, in typically immodest fashion, placed an equally large one of himself next to it. HADRIAN S LIBRARY To the north of the Roman Agora is this vast 2nd-century-AD library (Map pp102 3 ), the largest structure erected by Hadrian. It included a cloistered courtyard bordered by 100 columns and there was a pool in the centre. As well as books, the building housed music and lecture rooms and a theatre. Restoration works were completed in ROMAN BATHS Excavation work to create a ventilation shaft for the metro uncovered the well-preserved ruins of a large Roman bath complex (Map pp102 3 ). The baths, which extend into the National Gardens, were established near the Ilissos river after the Herulian raids in the 3rd century AD; they were destroyed and repaired again in the 5th or 6th century. PANATHENAIC STADIUM The Panathenaic Stadium (Map p100 ), which lies between two pine-covered hills between the neighbourhoods of Mets and Pangrati, was originally built in the 4th century BC as a venue for the Panathenaic athletic contests. A thousand wild animals are said to have been slaughtered in the arena at Hadrian s inauguration in AD 120. The seats were rebuilt in Pentelic marble by Herodes Atticus. After hundreds of years of disuse, the stadium was completely restored in 1895 by wealthy Greek benefactor Georgios Averof to host the first modern Olympic Games the following year. It is a faithful replica of the Panathenaic Stadium, comprising seats of Pentelic marble for 70,000 spectators, a running track and a central area for field events. It made a stunning backdrop to the archery competition and the marathon finish during the 2004 Olympics. Byzantine Athens Byzantine architecture in Athens is fairly thin on the ground. By the time of the split in the Roman Empire, Athens had shrunk to little more than a provincial town. The most important Byzantine building is the World Heritage listed, 11th-century Moni Dafniou ( p156 ) at Dafni, 10km northwest of Athens, which has been closed since it was damaged in the 1999 earthquake. The 12th-century Church of Agios Eleftherios (Little Metropolis; Map pp102-3 ; Mitropoleos, Plaka) is considered one of the city s finest. It is built partly of Pentelic marble and decorated with an external frieze of symbolic beasts in bas relief. It was originally dedicated to the Panagia Gorgoepikoos (meaning Virgin swift to answer prayers ) and was once the city s cathedral, but now stands in the shadows of the much larger new cathedral (Map pp102 3 ). The small 11th-century Church of Kapnikarea (Map pp102-3 ; Ermou, Monastiraki; h8am-2pm Tue, Thu & Fri) stands smack in the middle of the Ermou shopping strip. It was saved from the bulldozers and restored by Athens University. Its dome is supported by four large Roman columns. The 11th-century Church of Agii Theodori (Map pp104-5 ; off Klafthmonos on Stadiou, Syntagma) has a tiled dome and walls decorated with a pretty terracotta frieze of animals and plants. The lovely 11th-century Agios Nikolaos Rangavas (Map pp102-3 ; Plaka) was part of the palace of the Rangavas family, who counted among them Michael I, emperor of Byzantium. The church bell was the first installed in Athens after liberation from the Turks (who banned them), and was the first to ring in 1833 to announce the freedom of Athens. The unique 11th-century Church of Sotira Lykodimou (Map pp102 3 ), now the Russian Orthodox Cathedral, is the only octagonal Byzantine church and has an imposing dome. One of the oldest churches in Athens is the 10th-century Church of the Holy Apostles ( p117 ) in the Ancient Agora. Other churches worth seeing are the 11th- to 12th-century Church of Agia Ekaterini (Map pp102 3 ) in Plaka near the Lysikratous monument, and the 15th-century Church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris ( p124 ) on Filopappou Hill. The lovely Byzantine monastery, Moni Kaisarianis ( p125 ) is also worth a visit. None of these sites keeps regular hours, so it s a case of popping in if they are open. Neoclassical Athens Athens boasts a large number of fine neoclassical buildings dating from the period after Independence. Foremost are the celebrated neoclassical trilogy on Panepistimiou, halfway between Omonia and Syntagma. ATHENS & ATTICA

65 120 RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS Sights Runningsubhead www. www. RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS RunningSubhead Sights 121 ATHENS & ATTICA The centrepiece is the splendid Athens University (Map pp104 5 ), designed by the Danish architect Christian Hansen and completed in It still serves as the university s administrative headquarters. On its left is the Athens Academy (Map pp104 5 ), designed by Hansen s brother Theophile and completed in The Ionian-style entrance mimics the eastern entrance to the Erechtheion. Neither is open to the public. The trilogy is completed by the National Library (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Panepistimiou 32, Syntagma; admission free; h9am-8pm Mon-Thu, 9am-2pm Fri & Sat). Its main feature is the corridor leading to the reading room, which is flanked by a row of Doric columns influenced by the Temple of Hephaestus ( p117 ) in the Ancient Agora. National Archaeological Museum One of the world s great museums, the National Archaeological Museum (Map pp104-5 ; % ; 28 Oktovriou-Patision 44, Athens; adult/concession 7/3; h10am-5pm Mon, 8am-7.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 8.30am-3pm Nov-Mar) houses the most important finds from Greece s archaeological sites. The museum, which was damaged in the 1999 earthquake, was totally overhauled and reopened in The collection has been rearranged thematically and is beautifully presented, with information in English and Greek. Hundreds of pieces held in storage are now on display, while galleries that were closed for many years have reopened. The final two galleries, with the Egyptian and Stathatos collections, were temporarily closed. With 10,000 sq metres of exhibition space, it could take several visits to appreciate the museum s vast holdings, but it is possible to see the highlights in a half-day. Ahead of you as you enter the museum is the Prehistoric collection, showcasing some of the most important pieces of Mycenaean, Neolithic and Cycladic art. The fabulous collection of Mycenaean antiquities (Gallery 4) is the museum s tour de force. The first cabinet you come to holds the celebrated Mask of Agamemnon, unearthed at Mycenae by Heinrich Schliemann, along with key finds from Grave Circle A, including bronze daggers with intricate representations of the hunt. The exquisite Vaphio gold cups, with scenes of men taming wild bulls, are regarded as among the finest surviving examples of Mycenaean art. They were found in a tholos (Mycenaean tomb shaped like a beehive) at Vaphio, near Sparta. The Cycladic collection in Gallery 6 includes the superb figurines of the 3rd and 2nd century BC that inspired artists such as Picasso. Backtrack and enter the galleries to the left of the entrance, which house the oldest and most significant pieces of the Sculpture collection. Galleries 7 to 13 exhibit the museum s fine examples of Archaic Kouroi dating from the 7th century BC to 480 BC, including the colossal 600 BC Sounion Kouros (Room 8), found at the Temple of Poseidon in Sounion. Made of Naxian marble, the statue was a votive offering to Poseidon and stood before his temple. Gallery 15 is dominated by the 460 BC bronze statue of Zeus or Poseidon, found in the sea off Evia, which depicts one of the gods (no-one really knows which one) with his arms outstretched and holding a thunderbolt or trident in his right hand. In Gallery 21 you will see the striking 2ndcentury-BC statue of a horse and young rider, recovered from a shipwreck off Cape Artemision in Evia. Behind the horse is the lesserknown statue of Aphrodite, showing a demure nude Aphrodite struggling to hold her draped gown over her private parts. From Gallery 21, head left and up the stairs to the museum s other big crowd-puller, the spectacular Minoan frescoes from Santorini (Thira). The frescoes the Boxing Children, the Spring wall painting showing red lilies and a pair of swallows kissing in mid-air and the Antelopes were uncovered from the prehistoric settlement of Akrotiri ( p431 ), which was buried by a volcanic eruption in the late 16th century BC. The Thira Gallery is the most high-tech of the museum s displays, with videos showing the 1926 volcanic eruption, the Akrotiri excavation and preservation work on the vases and frescoes. Also on the 1st floor is the extensive and superb pottery collection, which traces the development of pottery from the Bronze Age through the Protogeometric and Geometric periods, to the emergence of the famous Attic black-figured pottery of the 6th century and the red-figured pottery from the late 5th to early 4th century. The other uniquely Athenian vessels are the Attic White Lekythoi, the slender vases depicting scenes at tombs. In the centre of Gallery 56 are six Panathenaic amphorae, presented to the winners of the Panathenaic Games. Each amphorae contained oil from the sacred olive trees of Athens and victors might have received up to 140 of them. They are painted with scenes from the relevant sport (in this case wrestling) on one side and an armed Athena Promachos on the other. In the centre of Room 50, you can see the obscure 7th-century clay doll (cabinet 20) from the Boetian Geometric period that was the inspiration for the odd-looking Athens 2004 Olympic mascots, Athena and Phivos. The female figure with movable large legs (one has six toes) has a bell-shaped body and a birdlike face. Heading back to the ground floor, turn right into Gallery 36 for the Bronze collection. Some of the galleries on this floor were closed for 20 years. One of the significant additions to this collection is the large 2nd-century-BC statue of the Lady of Kalymnon in Gallery 39. This larger than life-size figure, wearing a long draped tunic, was found in bad shape by a fisherman off the island of Kalymno in Next to the statue are photos and details of its restoration. Many of the smaller bronzes are masterpieces from the leading bronzesmithing workshops of Ancient Greece. The 200-BC statue of Athena Varvakeion is the most famous copy much reduced in size of the statue of Athena Polias by Pheidias that once stood in the Parthenon. The museum is a 10-minute walk from Viktoria metro station, or catch trolleybus 2, 4, 5, 9 or 11 from outside St Denis Cathedral on Panepistimiou and get off at the Polytechnio stop. Other Museums & Galleries With its wealth of history, it is not surprising that Athens has more than 130 museums, highlighting the city s history, art, culture and obsessions. BENAKI MUSEUM Greece s finest private museum (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias & Koumbari 1, Kolonaki; adult/concession 6/3, free Thu; h9am- 5pm Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat, 9am-midnight Thu, 9am-3pm Sun) contains the vast collection of Antonis Benakis, accumulated during 35 years of avid collecting in Europe and Asia. In 1931 he turned the family house into a museum and presented it to the Greek nation. The collection includes Bronze Age finds from Mycenae and Thessaly; two early works by El Greco; ecclesiastical furniture brought from Asia Minor; pottery, copper, silver and woodwork from Egypt, Asia Minor and Mesopotamia; and a stunning collection of Greek regional costumes. The Benaki Museum Pireos Annexe (Map p101 ; % ; Pireos 138, cnr Andronikou, Rouf; h10am-6pm Wed, Thu & Sun, 10am-10pm Fri & Sat) hosts regular visual arts, cultural and historical exhibitions as well as major international shows. The impressive former industrial building has a café and excellent gift store. GOULANDRIS MUSEUM OF CYCLADIC & ANCIENT GREEK ART This private museum (Map pp106-7 ; % ; cnr Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias & Neo fytou Douka, Kolonaki; adult/concession 5/2; h10am-4pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat) houses a collection of Cycladic art second in importance only to that displayed at the National Archaeological Museum ( opposite ). The museum was custom-built for the collection, and the finds are beautifully displayed and well labelled. Although the exhibits cover all periods from Cycladic to Roman times, the emphasis is on the Cycladic era from 3000 BC to 2000 BC. The exhibits include the marble figurines with folded arms that inspired many 20th-century artists with their simplicity and purity of form. The 19th-century mansion next door is used for temporary exhibitions. BYZANTINE & CHRISTIAN MUSEUM This outstanding museum (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias 22; adult/ concession 4/2; h8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun Oct-Apr; w) presents a priceless collection of Christian art, dating from the 4th to 15th centuries, which sheds light on Byzantine and post-byzantine culture a part of Greek history that is often ignored in favour of its ancient past. The collection is exceptionally presented with themed displays in a multilevel underground gallery. Housed in the pretty grounds of the former Villa Ilissia, the museum is a welcome break from the city hubbub. KANELLOPOULOS MUSEUM This excellent museum (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Theorias 12, cnr Panos, Plaka), in an imposing ATHENS & ATTICA

66 122 RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS Sights Runningsubhead www. www. RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS RunningSubhead Sights 123 ATHENS & ATTICA ART UNDERGROUND The Athens metro is an underground network of veritable museums and contemporary art galleries. Construction of the city s subway turned into Greece s biggest archaeological dig. Graves, foundations of ancient structures, wells and thousands of artefacts were found in the process and many of these finds are exhibited in metro stations around Athens, with the most impressive displays at Syntagma, Akropoli and the recently opened Egaleo station, where a 30m-long section of the 5th-century Sacred Way and other finds are displayed beneath a glass walkway. All stations also incorporate art installations by leading Greek artists, such as Alekos Fassianos work at Metaxourghio station, Yiannis Gaïtis trademark little men at Larisis, and New York based artist Stephen Antonakos neon installation at Evangelismos mansion on the northern slope of the Acropolis, houses the Kanellopoulos family s extensive collection, donated to the state in The collection includes jewellery, clayand-stone vases and figurines, weapons, Byzantine icons, bronzes and objets d art dating from every period of Greek history. It was due to reopen by 2008 after a major refurbishment. NATIONAL ART GALLERY Greece s premier art gallery (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Leoforos Vasileos Konstantinou 50; adult/concession 6/5; h9am-3pm Wed-Sat, 6-9pm Mon & Wed, 10am- 2pm Sun) presents a rich collection of Greek art spanning four centuries from the post- Byzantine period. A new wing housing its permanent collection explores the key art movements chronologically. The 1st floor hosts works from the post-byzantine period, the gallery s prized El Greco paintings, including The Crucifixion and Symphony of the Angels, and works from the Ionian period until On the 2nd floor are works by the country s leading 20th-century artists, including Parthenis, Moralis, Maleas and Lytras. The gallery also has works by European masters, including paintings by Picasso, Marquet and Utrillo, and hosts major international exhibitions. The gallery s significant sculpture collection is now housed in Goudi at the National Glyptoteque (off Map pp106-7 ; % ; Army Park, Katehaki; adult/concession 6/3; h9am-3pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun). NUMISMATIC MUSEUM This magnificent neoclassical mansion is worth a visit, even if you have little interest in coins. The museum (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Panepistimiou 12, Syntagma; adult/concession 3/2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) comprises 400,000 coins from ancient Greek, Hellenic, Roman and Byzantine times. The building was once the home of the celebrated archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann. MUSEUM OF GREEK FOLK ART An excellent collection of secular and religious folk art, mainly from the 18th and 19th centuries, is housed in this museum (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Kydathineon 17, Plaka; adult/concession 2/1; h9am- 2pm Tue-Sun). The 1st floor has embroidery, pottery, weaving and puppets. The 2nd floor has a reconstructed traditional village house with paintings by the primitive artist Theophilos of Lesvos (Mytilini). Greek traditional costumes are displayed on the 3rd and 4th floors. NATIONAL HISTORICAL MUSEUM Specialising in memorabilia from the War of Independence, this museum (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Stadiou 13, Syntagma; adult/concession 3/1, admission free Sun; h9am-2pm Tue-Sun, closed Mon in winter) has Byron s helmet and sword. There is also a series of paintings depicting events leading up to the war, Byzantine and medieval exhibits, and a collection of photographs and royal portraits. The museum is housed in the old parliament building at Kolokotroni. Theodoros Deligiannis, who succeeded Trikoupis as prime minister of Greece, was assassinated on the steps of the building in CITY OF ATHENS MUSEUM Occupying the palace where King Otho and his consort Amalia lived for a few years in the 1830s, this museum (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Paparigopoulou 7, Syntagma; adult/concession 3/2; h10.30am-6pm Mon, 9am-4pm Wed-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun) contains some of the royal couple s furniture, costumes and personal mementos, as well as paintings, prints and models of Athens in the 19th century. ISLAMIC ART MUSEUM A rarity outside the Islamic world and an unexpected find in Greece given the country s history, this museum (Map p101 ; % ; Agion Asomaton & Dipylou; adult/concession 5/3, free Thu; h9am-3pm Tue & Thu-Sun, 9am-9pm Wed) showcases one of the world s most significant collections of Islamic art, the bulk of which was assembled by Antonis Benakis in the 19th century. Opened by the Benaki Museum in 2004 in two restored neoclassical mansions near Keramikos, the museum exhibits more than 8000 items covering the 12th to 19th centuries, including weavings, carvings, prayer carpets, tiles and ceramics. There is a 17th-century reception room with an inlaid marble floor from a Cairo mansion on the 3rd floor. A very pleasant rooftop café overlooks Keramikos and you can see part of the Themistoklean wall in the basement. JEWISH MUSEUM Housed in a 19th-century mansion, this museum (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Nikis 39, Plaka; adult/ concession 5/2; h9am-2.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sun) traces the history of the Jewish community in Greece back to the 3rd century BC through an impressive collection of religious and folk art, and documents. It includes a reconstruction of a synagogue. FRISSIRAS MUSEUM This private art museum (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Moni Asteriou Tsangari 3, Plaka; adult/concession 6/3; h10am-5pm Wed-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun) is housed in two beautifully restored neoclassical mansions in Plaka. It showcases more than 3000 works of contemporary European painting, focusing mainly on the human figure, and hosts regular temporary exhibitions. There is a pleasant museum café. TURKISH BATHS This beautifully refurbished 17th-century bathhouse (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Kyrristou 8, Plaka; admission 2; h9am-2.30pm Wed-Mon) is the only surviving public bathhouse in Athens and one of the few remnants of Ottoman times. A helpful free audio tour takes you back in time to the bathhouse days. FREE MUSEUMS Athens has some interesting free museums. The Museum of Greek Popular Instruments (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Diogenous 1-3, Plaka; h10am-2pm Tue & Thu-Sun, noon-6pm Wed) has displays and recordings of a wide selection of traditional instruments and has live music in the courtyard on weeknights in summer. The most significant collection of Greek inscriptions can be seen at the Epigraphical Museum (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Tositsa 1; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), a veritable library of stone tablets next to the National Archaeological Museum. The War Museum (Map pp106-7 ; % ; cnr Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias & Rizari 2, Athens; h9am- 2pm Tue-Sun) is a relic of the colonels junta as well as an architectural statement of the times. All periods from the Mycenaean to the present day are covered, and displays include weapons, maps, armour and models. Aspiring thespians can visit the Theatre Museum (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Akadimias 50, Syntagma; h9am-2.30pm Mon-Fri) to see memorabilia from the 19th and 20th centuries, including costumes, props and reconstructions of the dressing rooms of Greece s most celebrated 20thcentury actors. The Centre of Folk Art & Tradition (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Hatzimihali Angelikis 6, Plaka; h9am-1pm & 5-9pm Tue-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun) has good displays of costumes, embroideries, pottery and musical instruments. The Museum of the History of Greek Costume (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Dimokritou 7, Kolonaki; h10am-2pm Mon-Fri) has rotating exhibitions of traditional costumes from different regions of Greece. The Technopolis (Map p101 ; % ; Pireos 100, Gazi; h10am-3pm Mon- Fri) also houses the Maria Callas Museum, a small museum dedicated to the revered opera diva. This innovative cultural centre in the superbly converted Athens gasworks complex also hosts multimedia exhibitions, concerts and special events. ATHENS & ATTICA

67 124 RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS Sights Runningsubhead www. www. RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS RunningSubhead Sights 125 ATHENS & ATTICA Hills of Athens The Athens basin is surrounded by mountains, bounded to the north by Mt Parnitha, the northeast by Mt Pendeli, the west by Mt Egaleo and the east by Mt Ymittos. Downtown Athens is dominated by the much smaller hills of Lykavittos (277m) and the Acropolis (156m), which are a pleasant escape from the traffic-congested streets. LYKAVITTOS HILL The name Lykavittos means hill of wolves and derives from ancient times when the hill was surrounded by countryside and its pine-covered slopes were inhabited by wolves. Today, the hill (Map pp106 7 ) is no longer surrounded by countryside nor inhabited by wolves, but rises out of a sea of concrete to offer the finest views in Athens. The dreaded nefos (pollution haze) permitting, there are panoramic views of the city, the Attic basin, the surrounding mountains, and the islands of Salamina and Aegina. A path leads to the summit from the top of Loukianou. Alternatively, you can take the funicular railway (Map pp106-7 ; % ; return 5.50; h9am-3am, half-hourly), referred to as the teleferik, from the top of Ploutarhou. There is a café halfway up the path and another at the top, as well as a fancy restaurant (see Orizontes, p139 ) with spectacular views. Also on the summit is the little Chapel of Agios Giorgios (Map pp106 7 ), which is floodlit at night and looks like a vision from a fairy tale from the streets below. The open-air Lykavittos Theatre ( p130 ), northeast of the summit, is used for concerts in summer. WEST OF THE ACROPOLIS Filopappou Hill (Map pp102 3 ), also called the Hill of the Muses, is identifiable to the southwest of the Acropolis by the Monument of Filopappos (Map p108 ) at its summit. The monument was built between 114 and 116 in honour of Julius Antiochus Filopappos, who was a prominent Roman consul and administrator. There are small paths all over the hill, but the paved path to the top starts near the periptero (kiosk) on Dionysiou Areopagitou. The pine-clad slopes are a pleasant place for a stroll, and offer good views of the plain and mountains of Attica and of the Saronic Gulf, and also offer some of the best vantage points for photographing the Acropolis. After 250m, the path passes the Church of Agios Dimitrios Loumbardiaris (Map pp102 3 ), which contains some fine frescoes. North of here is the rocky Hill of the Pnyx (Map p101 ), the meeting place of the Democratic Assembly in the 5th century BC. Among the great orators who addressed assemblies here were Aristides, Demosthenes, Pericles and Themistocles. The site offers great views over Athens. To the northwest is the Hill of the Nymphs (Map p101 ), on which stands the old Athens observatory built in The low Areopagus Hill (Map pp102 3 ) lies between the Acropolis and the Ancient Agora. According to mythology, it was here that Ares was tried by the council of the gods for the murder of Halirrhothios, son of Poseidon. The council accepted his defence of justifiable deicide (the act of killing a god) on the grounds that he was protecting his daughter, Alcippe, from unwanted advances. The hill became the place where murder, treason and corruption trials were heard before the Council of the Areopagus. In AD 51, St Paul delivered his famous Sermon to an Unknown God from this hill and gained his first Athenian convert, Dionysos, who became patron saint of the city. There are good views of the Ancient Agora from the summit. Areopagus Hill can be climbed by slippery marble steps cut into the rock, opposite the entrance to the Acropolis, or the new stairs. Parks The area around Syntagma is relatively green, but Athens is sadly lacking in parks. The best walks are around the base of the Acropolis and around Filopappou Hill and the Pnyx. NATIONAL GARDENS The National Gardens (Map pp102-3 ; entrances on Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias & Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias, Syntagma; h7am-dusk) are a delightful, shady refuge during summer. They were formerly the royal gardens designed by Queen Amalia. There s also a large children s playground, a duck pond and a lovely shady café. ZAPPEIO GARDENS Laid out in a network of wide walkways around the grand Zappeio Palace ( these gardens (Map pp102-3 ; entrances on Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias & Leoforos Vasilissis Olgas) were built in the 1870s with money donated by the wealthy Greek-Romanian benefactor Konstantinos Zappas. Until the 1970s, the Zappeio was used mainly as an exhibition hall. It was used for Council of Europe meetings during Greece s presidency of the EC and as a media centre during the Olympics. There s a pleasant café and restaurant next to the palace, as well as an open-air cinema and a chic bar. Other Attractions PARLIAMENT Greece s Parliament (Map pp102 3 ) was originally the royal palace designed by the Bavarian architect Von Gartner and built between 1836 and In 1935 it became the seat of the Greek parliament and it was from the palace balcony that the syntagma (constitution) was declared on 3 September The royal family moved to a new palace, which became the presidential palace upon the abolition of the monarchy in Only the library is open to the public. The war memorial in the forecourt, known as the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, is guarded by the city s famous statuesque evzones, the presidential guards whose uniform of short kilts and pom-pom shoes is based on the attire worn by the klephts (the mountain fighters of the War of Independence). The changing of the guard takes place every hour, while every Sunday at 11am the evzones perform an extended changing of the guard ceremony in full ceremonial dress, accompanied by a military band. ATHENS OLYMPIC STADIUM (OAKA) Athens newest landmark is the massive Athens Olympic Complex (Map p155 ; % ; Marousi). The showpiece stadium where the main action took place in 2004 is crowned by the striking glass and steel roof designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava. The vast complex includes numerous stadiums and futuristic design elements, such as the shimmering Wall of Nations. You can only visit on an organised tour (minimum 15 people; per person 3, additional fees for afternoon or weekend tours). If you are travelling independently, you can send a request to join another tour (fax ; oakaprel@otenet.gr). Take Metro Line 1 (Irini stop). MONI KAISARIANIS Nestled on the slopes of Mt Hymmetos, 5km from the city, the 11th-century monastery of Kaisariani (Map p155 ; % ; Mt Hymettos; admission 2; hbuildings 8.30am-2.45pm Tue-Sun, grounds 8.30am-sunset) is a peaceful sanctuary. Built on the foundations of an ancient temple, the dome of the church is supported by four columns from the ancient temple. The walled complex has a central court surrounded by the kitchen and dining rooms, the monks cells and the bathhouse. The domed katholikon (main church) is built in cruciform style. Most of the well-preserved frescoes date back to the 17th and 18th centuries. Avoid weekends, when it s swarming with picnickers. Take bus 224 from Kaningos (at the north end of Akadimias), or from the junction of Akadimias and Sina, to the terminus. From here it s about 30 minutes walk to the monastery or just get a taxi. ATHENS FIRST CEMETERY This cemetery (Map p108 ; Anapafseos, Trivonianou, Mets; h7.30am-sunset) is the resting place of many famous Greeks and philhellenes, and while it may seem a quirky thing to do, it is a fascinating and peaceful place to explore. Most of the tombstones and mausoleums are lavish in the extreme. Some are kitsch and sentimental; others are works of art created by the foremost 19th-century Greek sculptors, such as Halepas Sleeping Maiden on the tomb of a young girl. Among the cemetery s famous residents is the archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann ( ), whose mausoleum is decorated with scenes from the Trojan War. HELLENIC COSMOS If ruins and museums aren t enough insight into the ancient world, you can take a virtual reality trip to Ancient Greece at the futuristic Foundation for the Hellenic World (off Map p100 ; % ; Pireos 254, Tavros; adult 6-10, child depending on session; h9am-9pm Mon-Tue & Thu-Fri, 9am-9pm Wed, noon-6pm Sat, 11am-3pm Sun Jun-Sep; check for winter hr), about 2km from the city centre. The new high-tech Tholos domed virtual reality theatre takes you on an interactive tour of the Ancient Agora ( 10) while the Kivotos time machine has 3D floor-to-ceiling screens featuring ancient Miletus, Olympia and the world of Greek costumes. ATHENS & ATTICA

68 126 RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS Activities Runningsubhead www. www. RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS RunningSubhead Walking Tour 127 ATHENS & ATTICA PLANETARIUM Athens claims to have the world s largest and most technologically advanced digital Planetarium (off Map p100 ; % ; Syngrou 387, Palio Faliro; adult 4-8, concession 5-6; h pm Wed-Fri, 10.30am- 8.30pm Sat & Sun). The 280-seat planetarium, with a 950-sq-metre hemispherical dome, offers 3-D virtual trips to the galaxy, as well as IMAX movies and other high-tech shows about Ancient Greece. There is simultaneous narration in English ( 1). The planetarium is part of the Eugenides Foundation, a progressive scientific and educational institution. Enter from Penteli. Take the metro to Syngrou-Fix, then the No 550 or B2 bus to the Onassio stop and take the underpass across the road. es Many tourists forget that Athens is a coastal city, but there are some decent beaches within easy distance of the city centre. The closest are along the coast towards Glyfada ( p99 ), though the best of these are organised and charge admission (between 4 and 15 per adult). They re usually open between 8am and dusk, later during heatwaves, and include sun beds, umbrellas and facilities like changing rooms, children s playgrounds and cafés. The fancier ones have watersports and private cabanas. There are free beaches at Palio Faliro (Edem), Kavouri and Glyfada. The closest beaches to Athens are at Alimo (Akti Tou Iliou; % ; Mon-Fri adult/ child 5/4, Sat & Sun adult/child 7/4) and Agios Kosmas, while the better (and pricier) beaches are just south of Glyfada, including Asteras (% ; Mon-Fri 6, Sat & Sun 10) and Varkiza (% ; Mon-Fri adult/child 5.50/3.50, Sat & Sun adult/ child 6.30/3.50) These beaches can be reached by tram and then buses travelling south from Glyfada. There is also good (free) swimming at Shinias, Marathon and Vravrona in the north, though these take much longer to get to and are best reached by car. You can swim year-round at Limni Vouliagmenis (% ; adult/ child under 5yr 7/free; h7am-8pm), a part-saltwater/part-springwater lake whose temperature never falls below 21 C and is known for its therapeutic mineral qualities. It is set dramatically against a huge jutting cliff, just off the coast, and has a quaint old-world atmosphere thanks to the regular clientele of elderly citizens dressed in bathing caps and towelling gowns. ACTIVITIES Diving The Aegean Dive Centre (% ; cnr Zamanou & Pandoras, Glyfada; beginners course from 400, day/night dives 35/40) organises dives at a variety of sites between Vouliagmeni and Cape Sounion. Prices include all diving equipment. Golf Athens only course is the international standard 18-hole, par 72 Glyfada Golf Club (% ; ; off Konstantinos Karamanli; 9-/18-hole green fees 40/52.50). Clubs and buggies are available for hire. Bookings are required for weekends and public holidays. Skiing The nearest ski fields to Athens are at Mt Parnassos ( p237 ), three hours northwest, and Kalavryta ( p170 ) in the Peloponnese. The season usually lasts from mid-january to March. Day excursions to the Parnassos and Kalavryta are organised by Trekking Hellas ( p130 ) and Klaoudatos (Map p100 ; % ; Patision 52). WALKING TOUR This walk takes in most of the main sites in Athens. It involves just over one hour s walking, but can take up to four hours allowing for lingering at various sites and a few detours. The walk begins at the fountain at Syntagma. The square has been a favourite place for protests and rallies ever since the rally that led to the granting of a constitution on 3 September 1843, declared by King Otho from the balcony of the royal palace. In 1944 the first round of the civil war began here after police opened fire on a communist rally, while in 1954 it was the location of the first demonstration demanding the enosis (union) of Cyprus with Greece. Standing facing the metro station, to your left is the historic Hotel Grande Bretagne (1; above ), the grandest of Athens hotels. Built in 1862 as a 60-room mansion for visiting dignitaries, it was converted into a hotel in 1872 and became the place where the crowned heads of Europe and eminent politicians stayed. The Nazis made it their headquarters during WWII. The hotel was the scene of an attempt to blow up the British prime minister Winston Churchill on Christmas Eve To the left of the metro entrance you can see a section of the ancient cemetery and the Peisistratos aqueduct (2), which was unearthed during metro excavations. Take the metro underpass to cross from the square to the Parliament, stopping en route at the upper hall of Syntagma metro station (3; p122 ), showpiece of the city s swish metro system. Glass cases at the southern end of the huge marble hall display finds uncovered during construction, while the western wall has been preserved like a trench at an archaeological dig. WALK FACTS Start Syntagma Finish Syntagma Duration Three to four hours WALKING TOUR 25 Monastiraki Peikilis Ancient Agora Areos Tower of the Winds Acropolis Klepsidra Café 17 Monastiraki Monastirakiou Dimopratiriou Dexippou Theorias Pelopida Dionysiou Areopagitou Eolou 21 Mitropoleos 27 Arhaia Agoras Theatre of Dionysos Mnisikleous Diogenous Prytaniou Kyrristou Lyssiou 15 Anafiotika 14 Stratonos Pandrosou Thrasyllou Flessa Tripodon Thespidos Epimenidou Perikleous 26 Agias Filotheis Adrianou Makrygianni The underpass emerges to the right of the former royal palace, now the Parliament building (4; p125 ). Backtrack to the forecourt of the Parliament, where you will see the much-photographed evzones, the presidential guards. They stand sentinel under the striking Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, which depicts a slain soldier and has inscriptions with excerpts of Pericles epitaph. Time your visit to catch the changing of the guard (5; p125 ), every hour on the hour. Duck into the lush National Gardens (6; p124 ) to escape the traffic and exit near the wellpreserved ruins of the Roman Baths (7; p119 ), uncovered during metro excavation works. Continue along Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias to Vassilissis Olgas. To your left is the statue (8) of Lord Byron being embraced by Hellas, who seems to be plucking a feather from his head. Crossing the road, you will see the striking columns of the Temple of Olympian Zeus (9; p118 ), while ahead of you teetering on the edge of the traffic, is Hadrian s Arch (10; p118 ), the ornate gateway erected to mark the boundary of Hadrian s Athens. Ermou Mitropoleos Thoukididou Hatzimihali Angelikis Vyronos Apollonos Plaka Sotiros Filomousou Eterias Goura Lysikratous Kydathineon 10 Karageorgi Servias Skoufou Iperidou Kodrou Pittakou Nikis Deda lou 9 Filellinon m miles Syntagmatos Rallou Manou 7 Othonos Xenofontos 1 2 Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias Syntagma 3 5 Zappeio Gardens Leof Vas Olgas 4 National Gardens 6 Zappeio Palace ATHENS & ATTICA

69 128 RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS Walking Runningsubhead Tour www. www. RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS RunningSubhead Courses 129 ATHENS & ATTICA Cross over Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias and head right towards Lysikratous, where you will make a left turn into Plaka. Ahead on your right you will see the ruins of a roman monument in the forecourt of the 11th to 12th century Church of Agia Ekaterini (11). Continuing ahead you will reach the Choregic Monument of Lysikrates (12). This monument was built in 334 BC to commemorate a win in a choral festival. The reliefs on the monument depict the battle between Dionysos and the Tyrrhenian pirates, whom the god had transformed into dolphins. It is the earliest known monument using Corinthian capitals externally. It stands in what was once part of the Street of Tripods (13; Modern Tripodon), where winners of ancient dramatic and choral contests dedicated their tripod trophies to Dionysos. In the 18th century, the monument was incorporated into the library of a French Capuchin convent, in which Lord Byron stayed in and wrote Childe Harold. The convent was destroyed by fire in Facing the monument, turn left and then right into Epimenidou. At the top of the steps, turn right into Stratonos, which skirts the Acropolis. Just ahead you will see the Church of St George of the Rock (14), which marks the entry to the Anafiotika quarter (15). The picturesque maze of little whitewashed houses is the legacy of the stonemasons from the small Cycladic island of Anafi who were brought in to build the king s palace after Independence. It s a peaceful spot, with brightly painted olive-oil cans brimming with flowers bedecking the walls of the tiny gardens in summer. Following the narrow path that winds around the houses, hand-painted signs pointing to the Acropolis lead you to the tiny Church of Agios Simeon (16). It looks like a dead end but persevere and you will emerge at the Acropolis road. Turn right and then left into Prytaniou, veering right after 50m into Tholou. The yellow-ochre building at No 5 is the old Athens university (17), built by the Venetians. The Turks used it as public offices and it housed Athens University from 1837 to A few metres along, turn right on Klepsidras down some narrow steps that lead to the little Klepsidra Café, where you can have a rest stop or continue down to the ruins of the Roman Agora (18; p118 ). To the right of the Tower of the Winds, on Kyrristou are the Turkish Baths (19; p123 ), while the Museum of Greek Popular Instruments (20; p123 ) is just ahead on Diogenous. As you turn onto Pelopida you will see the Gate of the Muslim seminary (21), built in 1721 and destroyed in a fire in 1911, and the Fethiye Mosque (22) on the site of the Agora. Follow the road around the Agora, then turn right into Peikilis and right again into Areos. Ahead on your right are the ruins of Hadrian s Library (23; p119 ). Next to it is the Museum of Traditional Greek Ceramics (24; % ; Areos 1, Monastiraki; adult/concession 3/2; h10am- 2pm Wed-Mon), housed in the 1759 Mosque of Tzistarakis. After Independence it lost its minaret and was used as a prison. You are now in Monastiraki, the colourful, chaotic square, teeming with street vendors. To the left is the metro station and the flea market (25; p144 ), and you won t fail to notice the souvlaki aromas wafting from Mitropoleos. Turn right at the mosque into Pandrosou. This relic of the old Turkish bazaar is full of souvenir shops. The street is named after King Cecrops daughter, Pandrosos, who was the first priestess of Athens. Pandrosou leads to the Athens Cathedral (26). The cathedral has little architectural merit, which isn t surprising considering that it was constructed from the masonry of over 50 razed churches and from the designs of several architects. Next to it stands the smaller, more appealing and significant Church of Agios Eleftherios (27; p119 ). Just past this church turn right into Agias Filotheis, which is lined with buildings belonging to the Greek church. The mansion with the elaborate gold doors is the residence of the Archbishop of Greece. Turn left into Flessa, then right to reach the peculiar junkyard landmark that is Tom s Recycled Garden (28). You might even catch a glimpse of the eccentric Irishman working on one of his wacky political artistic statements. Follow the pedestrian street to busy Kydathineon, and Filomousou Eterias, which is packed with cafés and outdoor tavernas. Turn left and a little way along you will come to the Church of Metamorfosis (29), opposite the Museum of Greek Folk Art (30; p122 ). If you ve got the time, you could also squeeze in a visit to the nearby Centre of Folk Art & Tradition (31; p123 ), on Hatzimihali Angelikis, or take in some European art at the Frissiras Museum (32; p123 ). Alternatively, continue along Kydathineon and turn left into Nikis, head all the way to Ermou, where you can turn left into Athens main shopping drag, or right to return to Syntagma. COURSES If you are serious about learning Greek, several places offer intensive courses for beginners and various levels of proficiency. Athens Centre (Map p100 ; % ; Arhimidous 48, Mets) Occupying a fine neoclassical building in a quiet residential suburb, the centre s immersion courses ( 640) pack 60 hours of classes into three or four weeks. It also runs cheaper conversation, grammar and business courses. Hellenic Cultural Centre (Map pp104-5 ; %/fax ; Halkokondyli 50, Omonia) Ideal for people without a lot of time, the centre squeezes 40 hours of class time and 20 hours of excursion time into two weeks ( 650). In August, classes are held on an island. Hellenic-American Union (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Massalias 22, Kolonaki) This well-regarded centre runs courses that last three to 10 weeks (from 400). For information on language courses on the islands, see p721. ATHENS FOR CHILDREN Athens is short on playgrounds but there are activities to keep kids amused. Stroll through the shady National Gardens ( p124 ), where there is a playground, duck pond and minizoo, or go to the War Museum ( p123 ), where the kids can climb into the cockpit of a WWII plane and other aircraft in the courtyard. There is also a fully enclosed shady playground in the Zappeio Gardens ( p124 ). The Hellenic Children s Museum (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Kydathineon 14, Plaka; admission free; h10am-2pm Tue-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun) is more of a play centre than a museum. It has a games room and a number of exhibits, such as a mock-up of a metro tunnel, for children to explore. Parents must supervise their children at all times. The Museum of Children s Art (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Kodrou 9, Plaka; admission free; h10am-2pm Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun, closed Aug) has a room set aside where children can let loose their creative energy. Crayons and paper are supplied. A 1 fee applies only to children attending special programmes. Further afield, the enormous Allou Fun Park & Kidom (off Map p100 ; % ; Leoforos Kifisou S & Petrou Rali, Renti; admission free, rides 2-4; h5pm-1am Mon-Fri, 10am-midnight Sat & Sun) is Athens biggest amusement park complex. Kidom is aimed at younger children. It s a pricey but sure way to keep kids entertained for a while. The Attica Zoological Park (off Map pp106-7 ; % ; Yalou, Spata; adult/child 3-12yr 11/9; h9am-sunset) isn t one of the world s great zoos but you can see lions, zebras, apes, birds, reptiles and other animals if you make the trek out to Spata, near the airport. To get there take bus 319 from Doukissis Plakentias metro station. You can always escape the heat and amuse the kids with a virtual-reality tour of ancient Greece at the Foundation for the Hellenic World ( p125 ) or check out the latest digital technology at the impressive Planetarium ( p126 ). TOURS Athens Sightseeing Public Bus Line (%185; fare 5), bus route 400, covers 20 key locations in Athens, from the Archaeological Museum to the markets and ancient sites. Buses run half-hourly between 7.30am and 9pm; tickets can only be purchased on board. Tickets are valid for 24 hours and can be used on all public transport, excluding the airport services. Four main companies run similar pricey organised city tours around Athens: CHAT (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Xenofontos 9, Syntagma;) GO Tours (Map p108 ; % ; Athanasiou 20) Hop In Sightseeing (% ; Tour bookings are only taken over the telephone. Key Tours (Map p108 ; % /266; Kaliroïs 4, Makrygianni) Tours include a half-day sightseeing tour of Athens ( 65), usually doing little more than pointing out all the major sights and stopping at the Acropolis; and an Athens by Night tour ( 78), which includes a taverna dinner in Plaka with folk dancing. These companies also run half-day trips to Ancient Corinth ( 53) and Cape Sounion ( 50); day tours to Delphi (including lunch 120), the Corinth Canal, Mycenae, Nafplio and Epidavros (similar prices); and rather overpriced cruises to Aegina, Poros and Hydra (including lunch 122). Hotels act as booking agents for at least one company and often offer substantial discounts. Hop In Sightseeing offers a hop-on/hopoff city tour option, which allows you to get ATHENS & ATTICA

70 130 RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS Festivals Runningsubhead & Events www. www. Book accommodation online at RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS RunningSubhead Sleeping 131 ATHENS & ATTICA off at specific points on a set route as many times as you like. Scoutway (Map pp102-3 ; % ; way.gr; Ptolemeon 1, Pangrati), run by the Scouts Association of Greece, offers alternative activities for tourists, from hiking trips and visits to mines to schooner sailing trips and themed walks around ancient Athens accompanied by actors. Trekking Hellas (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Filellinon 7, Plaka) runs activities ranging from Athens walking tours ( 40) to bungee jumping in the Corinth Canal ( 60). Historian and archaeologist Andrew Farrington leads Athenian Days (% ; per hr from 50), private tailormade themed tours around Athens for up to six people. FESTIVALS & EVENTS Hellenic Festival The annual Hellenic Festival, really a collection of festivals, is Greece s most important cultural event, running from late May to October. It features a top line-up of local and international music, dance and theatre. The major events in the Athens Festival t a ke place at the superb Odeon of Herodes Atticus ( p115 ), one of the world s most historic venues. Set against a floodlit Acropolis, patrons sit on cushions on the worn marble seats that Athenians have been entertained on for centuries. The festival, which celebrated its 50th year in 2005, has been going from strength to strength and presents a diverse programme of international standing, ranging from ancient theatre and classical music to contemporary dance and world music. Events are held in venues around town. The Hellenic festival incorporates the Epidavros Festival, which presents ancient Greek drama, as well as modern theatre, at the famous Ancient Theatre of Epidavros ( p187 ) in the Peloponnese, about two hours west of Athens. Performances are held every Friday and Saturday night during July and August. The Musical July festival takes place at the lovely 3rd-century-BC Little Theatre of Ancient Epidavros ( p187 ), set among the olive groves and pine trees in the seaside village of Epidavros. Performances are held on Friday and Saturday and range from Greek music to classical offerings. The theatre is a 15- minute walk from the port. The festival programme should be available from the beginning of February on the festival website and at the Hellenic Festival box office (Map pp104-5 ; % ; val.gr; arcade, Panepistimiou 39, Syntagma; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat). Tickets are not available until three weeks before the performance and sell out quickly. Tickets may also be bought on the day of the performance at the theatre box offices, but queues can be very long. There are half-price student discounts for most performances on production of an ISIC card. Special buses to Epidavros, departing from bus terminal A, are run by KTEL (% ; return 20) on Friday and Saturday, returning after the show. You can also take a dinner cruise (Little Epidavros adult/concession 55/30, Epidavros incl bus adult/concession 60/35). Coaches leave from Syntagma and Klafthmonos around 5pm. The boat arrives at Epidavros at 7.30pm. Little Epidavros is a short walk from the port, while the Epidavros theatre is a 15-minute bus ride away. Supper is served on the return leg. Book through the festival box office. Lykavittos Summer Theatre & Concerts The Hellenic Festival box office also takes bookings for the summer theatre and concert series held at the Lykavittos Theatre (Map pp106-7 ; % ). The hill-top theatre provides a spectacular setting for an eclectic annual programme. Rockwave Festival The annual international Rockwave Festival (% ; has been growing in stature and popularity and is now held at Terra Vibe, a huge parkland venue on the outskirts of Athens. Rock fans can expect to see some of the world s top acts the 2007 line-up included Robert Plant and Metallica. Tickets are available from Ticket House (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Panepistimiou 42). Terra Vibe is in Malakassa, at the 37th km on the Athens Lamia Hwy. Special buses are put on by organisers and there is also a cheap camp site for ticketholders. August Moon Festival Every August on the night of the full moon, musical performances are held at key historic venues, including the Acropolis, the Roman Agora and other sites around Greece. De- tails are normally announced last-minute so check the local English-language press. Other Festivals & Events A range of cultural events takes place at the Technopolis (Map p101 ; % ; athens.gr), the funky former Gasworks complex turned cultural centre, including the six-day European Jazz Festival at the end of May/early June and the two-week International Dance Festival in July. Both events come under the auspices of the City of Athens (%195; which also organises free concerts and music and dance performances across the city throughout the summer. The three-day international Synch Electronic Music & Digital Arts Festival (% ; is held in July at Technopolis in Gazi. Tickets are available from the Hellenic Festival box office (Map pp104-5 ; % ; tival.gr; arcade, Panepistimiou 39, Syntagma; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat). Greece s leading artists and international acts can be seen during the summer at two stunning venues in former quarries: the Vyronas Festival (% ; held at the Theatro Vrahon in the suburb of Vyronas; and the Petras Festival (% ; Petroupoli) in western Athens. Programmes and tickets for both are available from Metropolis Music stores ( p144 ). Popular rock venue Gagarin 205 runs the Gagarin Open Air Festival (% ; a summer music concert series, at the former Olympic baseball venue at Elliniko. In September, the annual Athens International Film Festival (% ; takes place at the Apollon & Attikon cinemas (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Stadiou 19, Syntagma). SLEEPING Hotels in Athens received a much-needed overhaul as a consequence of the Olympics. Older hotels were totally reconstructed, others were refurbished, new chic boutique hotels opened and even the shabbiest places were given a coat of paint. Though prices have skyrocketed as a result, you can expect a higher standard of accommodation. Athens is a noisy city and Athenians keep late hours, so we ve mostly selected hotels in quiet areas, pedestrian precincts or side streets. Prices quoted here are for the high season, but most places offer considerable discounts, especially in low season and online. Most of the top city hotels are around Syntagma. Plaka is the most popular place for travellers to stay and has a choice of accommodation across the price spectrum. There are also some good pensions and midrange hotels south of the Acropolis, around the quiet neighbourhoods of Makrygianni and Koukaki. Around Monastiraki and Omonia, many of the area s run-down hotels have been upgraded, with some bold attempts to transform them into hip boutique hotels, but there is still a general seediness that detracts from the area, especially at night. Omonia has a plethora of largely unattractive accommodation, mostly characterless modern C-class places or cheap bordellos, where you won t get a wink of sleep. The best rooms in Athens fill up quickly in July and August, so it s wise to book ahead to avoid a fruitless walk in the heat. If you arrive in the city late at night and can t find a place to stay, don t sleep out. It is illegal and could be dangerous. Budget HOSTELS Athens International Youth Hostel (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Victor Hugo 16; dm 10; a) Under new management, this hostel was refurbished in As well as dorms, there are double and four-bed rooms with air-con. The same management has new budget rooms and hostel-style accommodation in Omonia s Athens Easy Hostel (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Satovrianidou 26), which was going to get a much-needed upgrade. Youth Hostel No 5 (Map p100 ; % ; Damareos 75, Pangrati; dm 12) These dorms are very basic and dated, but it s a cheery place in a quiet residential neighbourhood. Owner Yiannis is something of a philosopher, and visitors are encouraged to add their jokes and words of wisdom to the hostel notice boards. Facilities include coin-operated hot showers ( 0.50), communal kitchen, TV room and laundry. Take trolleybus 2 or 11 from Syntagma to the Filolaou stop on Frinis. Hostel Aphrodite (Map p100 ; % ; Einardou 12, Stathmo Larisis; dm 13-15, d/tr without bathroom 45/60, d with bathroom 50; ai) If you are prepared to be less central, this ATHENS & ATTICA

71 132 RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS Sleeping Runningsubhead Book accommodation www. online at www. Book accommodation online at RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS RunningSubhead Sleeping 133 ATHENS & ATTICA well-run hostel is a good cheap option. It s a 10-minute walk from the Larisis train and metro stations or five minutes to Viktoria. It has clean, good-sized four- and eight-bed dorms, some with en-suite bathrooms, as well as double rooms with and without private bathrooms many with balconies. Facilities include internet access, laundry and a travel agency. Breakfast costs from Student & Travellers Inn (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Kydathineon 16, Plaka; dm 15-18, d/tr without bathroom 55/70, s/d/tr with bathroom 50/60/81; ai) This popular and wellrun place in the heart of Plaka has a mixture of dorms and simple rooms for up to four people, with or without private bathroom and air-conditioning. It has a cheery yellow and blue colour scheme and some rooms have fine old timber floors. Facilities include a pleasant shady courtyard with large-screen TV, internet access and a travel service. Breakfast costs from 3.50 and rooms are heated in winter. Athens Backpackers (Map p108 ; % ; Makri 12, Makrygianni; dm incl breakfast 25; ai) This friendly Australian-run hostel right near the Acropolis metro station has six-bed dorms with en-suite bathrooms and lockers, and rooms for families. No curfew, a barbecue in the courtyard, full kitchen and laundry facilities, high-speed internet access, and a great rooftop bar with cheap drinks and Acropolis views make it a popular place. Rates include bedding, but towels cost 2. The same management has dorms ( 27) and excellent studio accommodation (doubles 100 to 120) in another building nearby. HOTELS Plaka & Syntagma John s Place (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Patroou 5; s/d/tr without bathroom 35/55/75; a) This small, old-style, family-run place is ideally situated just west of Syntagma and the timber staircase, old doors and high ceilings give it some charm. The furniture and bathrooms have been updated, and each room has a hand basin. Some have air-conditioning, but bathrooms are all shared. Adonis Hotel (Map pp102-3 ; % ; fax ; Kodrou 3; s/d incl breakfast 55/89; a) This comfortable, if bland, pension on a quiet street represents one of the best deals around. The rooms are neat and come with TV. There are great views of the Acropolis from the 4th-floor rooms, and from the rooftop bar. Adams Hotel (Map pp102-3 ; % ; adams@otenet.gr; Herofontos 6, Plaka; s/d 65/80, f ; a) A decent budget option in Plaka, this place has simple old-fashioned rooms with TV, as well as larger family rooms. Monastiraki & Thisio Tempi Hotel (Map pp102-3 ; % ; hotel.gr; Eolou 29, Monastiraki; d/tr 60/75, without bathroom s/d 40/54; a) This friendly, family-run place on pedestrian Eolou has front rooms with balconies overlooking pretty Agia Irini, with its flower market and church, and side views of the Acropolis. The popular bar next door may make it noisy at night. The rooms have satellite TV, but the bathrooms are still basic and the top-floor rooms are small and quite a hike. There is a communal kitchen. Hotel Erechthion (Map p101 ; % ; fax ; Flammarion 8 & Agias Marinis, Thisio; s/d/tr incl breakfast 50/71/90; a) The pedestrian grand promenade around Thisio has boosted the appeal of the area s budget hotels, though surprisingly few have bothered upgrading their facilities. This hotel is slowly refurbishing its rooms, many of which have great Acropolis views. They are clean and all have air-con and TV. The glass cabinet of kitsch in the foyer sets the tone for this place. Koukaki Marble House Pension (Map p108 ; % , ; Zini 35a, Koukaki; d/tr without bathroom 44/51, s/d/tr with bathroom 44/50/57; a) This pension in a quiet cul-de-sac is one of Athens better budget hotels, though it is a fair way from the tourist areas. Rooms have been updated, with new pine beds and linen. All rooms have a fridge and ceiling fans and some have air-con ( 9 extra). Breakfast costs an extra 5. Hotel Tony (Map p108 ; % ; tony.gr; Zaharitsa 26; s/d/tr 45/60/75; a) This clean, well-maintained pension has been upgraded, with all but one of the rooms having en-suite bathrooms. Air-con costs 9 extra. All have fridges. Tony also has roomy, well-equipped studio apartments nearby, which are similarly priced and excellent for families or longer stays. Omonia & Surrounds Hotel Exarchion (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Themistokleous 55, Exarhia; s/d/tr 40/50/60; ai) Right in the heart of bohemian Ex- arhia, this rather bland 1960s high-rise hotel offers cheap and clean accommodation with washing and internet facilities. Bathrooms were being renovated at the time of research. There s a rooftop café-bar from which you can watch the action below or you can venture out to explore one of Athens most interesting neighbourhoods. It s a 10-minute walk from Omonia station. CAMPING There are no camping grounds in central Athens. The EOT s Camping in Greece booklet lists sites in the Attica region. Athens Camping (% ; athens.com.gr; Leoforos Athinon 198, Haidari; camp sites per adult/tent 7/5; hyear-round) This unattractive place, 7km west of the city centre on the road to Corinth, is the nearest camping ground to Athens. It has reasonable facilities. Good camp sites can be found at Shinias ( p158 ), east of Athens, and near Cape Sounion ( p155 ). Midrange PLAKA & SYNTAGMA Acropolis House Pension (Map pp102-3 ; % ; htlacrhs@otenet.gr; Kodrou 6-8, Plaka; d 51-79, s/d/tr incl breakfast 60/87/113; a) This atmospheric familyrun pension is in a beautifully preserved, 19thcentury house, which retains many original features and has lovely painted walls. There are discounts for stays of three days or more. Some rooms have bathrooms across the hall. Niki Hotel (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Nikis 27, Syntagma; s/d/q incl buffet breakfast 80/97/200; a) This small hotel bordering Plaka has undergone one of the more stylish makeovers in the area, with a contemporary design and furnishings. The rooms are well appointed and there is a two-level suite for families, with balconies offering Acropolis views. Athens Cypria Hotel (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Diomias 5, Syntagma; s/d 80/110; a) Tucked in a side street off Ermou, this small, friendly hotel is a little characterless, but it is modern and comfortable, with good facilities and a very handy location. There are also family rooms (including breakfast 195) and discounts for children. There are small balconies but no great view. Central Hotel (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Apollonos 21, Plaka; s/d/tr incl buffet breakfast from 99/121/165; a) This stylish hotel has been tastefully decorated in light, contemporary tones. It has comfortable rooms with all the mod cons and decent bathrooms. There is a lovely roof terrace with Acropolis views, which has a small Jacuzzi and sun lounges. Central is in a handy location between Syntagma and Plaka. Hotel Achilleas (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Leka 21, Syntagma; s/d/tr incl breakfast 100/125/145; a) From the sleek lobby to the rooms, the Achilleas has been tastefully renovated. The rooms are large and airy with TV and fridge, and those on the top floor open onto garden balconies. There are large family rooms ( 165). Hotel Adrian (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Adrianou 74, Plaka; s/d/tr incl buffet breakfast 110/135/150, s/d with view 125/150; a) This small hotel is conveniently located off Arhaia Agoras in the heart of Plaka. Breakfast is on a lovely shady terrace with Acropolis views. The well-equipped rooms have been refurbished, are pleasant enough and have free tea and coffee. The 3rd floor rooms are the best, with large balconies overlooking the square. Plaka Hotel (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Kapnikareas 7 & Mitropoleos, Monastiraki; s/d/tr 120/145/165; a) It s hard to beat the Acropolis views from the rooftop garden at this refurbished hotel, which you also enjoy from the top-floor rooms. Rooms have light timber furniture and floors, and satellite TV, though the bathrooms are on the small side. There s probably better value elsewhere if you can t get a room with a view. MONASTIRAKI & THISIO Hotel Attalos (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Athinas 29, Psyrri; s/d/tr 72/89/106; a) Though décor has never been its strong point, this nonetheless comfortable place has an Olympic makeover. Its best feature is the rooftop bar that offers wonderful views of the Acropolis by night, and the rooms at the back with Acropolis views from the balconies. All rooms have TV. Hotel Cecil (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Athinas 39, Monastiraki; s/d incl breakfast 75/104; a) This charming old hotel has beautiful high, moulded ceilings, polished timber floors and an original cage-style lift. The rooms are tastefully furnished and equipped with TV, but no fridges. There are two connecting ATHENS & ATTICA

72 134 RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS Sleeping Runningsubhead Book accommodation www. online at www. RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS RunningSubhead Eating 135 ATHENS & ATTICA rooms with a shared bathroom for families or friends ( 145). Arion Hotel (Map pp104-5 ; % ; hotel.gr; Agiou Dimitriou 18, Psyrri; s/d/tr 100/125/145) This three-star hotel overlooking Agiou Dimitriou Sq has the standard mod cons and is simply furnished with marble bathrooms. It s in a handy location, a short walk to Monastiraki station and the nightlife of Psyrri. Magna Grecia (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Mitropoleos 54, Monastiraki; s/d incl breakfast 115/130; ai) This historic building, on busy Mitropoleos opposite the cathedral, has great Acropolis views from the front rooms and rooftop terrace. There are 12 individually decorated rooms with painted murals, named after Greek islands. The rooms have Cocomat eco-mattresses and furniture, DVD, internet access and minibar. MAKRYGIANNI & KOUKAKI Acropolis View (Map p108 ; % ; Webster 10, Makrygianni; s/d/tr incl buffet breakfast from 55/80/100; ai) This small, friendly hotel has one of the quietest settings around, just south of the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. There are indeed views of the Acropolis from some of the rooms, although the best vistas are from the roof terrace. Other rooms look out towards Filopappou Hill. Rooms are plainly decorated but are well equipped and have new bathrooms. Art Gallery Hotel (Map p108 ; % ; Erehthiou 5, Koukaki; s/d 90/105; a) This small, familyrun, friendly place is full of personal touches and artwork by an artist from the family who once had her studio upstairs. Some rooms are a little small but all have been refurbished, with new bathrooms. Original furniture from the 60s has been retained in the communal areas. There is a balcony with Acropolis views where you can have a generous breakfast ( 7). There are a few cheaper double rooms with shared bathrooms. Philippos Hotel (Map p108 ; % ; Mitseon 3, Makrygianni; s/d incl breakfast 107/139; a) This smart, modern, popular hotel has been spruced up. The rooms are small but well appointed and there is a small double on the roof, which has a private terrace. Hera Hotel (Map p108 ; % ; hotel.gr; Falirou 9; s/d incl breakfast 120/135, ste from 200; a) This elegant boutique hotel was totally rebuilt but the interior design is in keeping with the lovely neoclassical façade. There s lots of brass and timber and stylish classic furnishings with a modern edge, along with all the expected amenities. The rooftop garden, restaurant and bar have spectacular views and it is a short walk to the Acropolis and Plaka. AROUND OMONIA Baby Grand Hotel (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Athinas 65, Omonia; s/d incl buffet breakfast 110/120; i) The reception desk created out of two old Mini Coopers sets the tone for this funky revamped hotel with graffiti art in the rooms and free internet. There s a decent, if unfortunately named, restaurant. Though it s on busy Athinas, it s in a handy location. Fresh Hotel (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Sofokleous 26 & Klisthenous, Omonia; d/ste incl buffet breakfast from 150/350; as) This designer hotel led the trend for hip hotels in the gritty Omonia area. Once inside, the seediness gives way to chic rooms and suites with individual colour schemes, clever lighting and all the mod cons. The fantastic rooftop with pool, bar and restaurant with Acropolis views couldn t be further from the world below. Top End There are some lovely luxury hotels in Athens, offering the odd discount in low season. Herodion (Map p108 ; % ; Rovertou Galli 4; s/d incl breakfast 145/182; aiw) This elegant four-star hotel is geared towards the well-heeled traveller. The rooms are small but well appointed, with super-comfortable beds. There is a lovely atrium restaurant and laptops with high-speed internet connection in the foyer. Periscope (Map pp106-7 ; % ; scope.gr; Haritos 22, Kolonaki; r , ste incl breakfast from 270; a) Right in chic Kolonaki overlooking Lykavittos, Periscope is a smart, modern hotel with industrial décor and many clever gadgets and design features, including the lobby slide show, the sea-level measure on the stairs, travelling TVs and aerial shots of the city on the ceilings. The penthouse s private rooftop Jacuzzi has sensational views. St George Lycabettus Hotel (Map pp106-7 ; % /19; Kleomenous 2, Kolonaki; d from 180; pas) It s a bit of a hike up the hill to this boutique-style hotel at the foot of Lykavittos Hill, in chic Kolonaki. But you can look forward to cooling off in the rooftop pool and enjoying the spectacular view from the bar (and many of the rooms). The rooms are individually decorated and recently renovated. A luxury spa centre opened in Semiramis Hotel (off Map pp106-7 ; % ; Trikoupi 48, Kefalari; d/pool bungalow/ste incl breakfast from 180/260/350; pas) This designer hotel with a striking lollipopcoloured façade is the hippest place to stay if you don t need to be downtown (it s 15km northeast of town). Renowned industrial designer Karim Rashid has bold interior showcases for the owner s contemporary art collection, while the amorphous-shaped pool and high-tech gadgets in the rooms are impressive. Hilton (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias 46, Ilissia; r/ste from 206/421; pas) The Athens Hilton is a vast concrete edifice that looks more like a 1950s housing project than a luxury hotel, but inside, no expense has been spared. It has lashings of marble and bronze, enormous chandeliers and somewhat giddy designer carpets. The excellent but pricey Milos restaurant is downstairs and there is a lovely pool. Electra Palace (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Navarhou Nikodimou 18, Plaka; d/ste incl breakfast from 190/560; pais) Plaka s smartest hotel was completely refurbished and extended in 2003 and given a new neoclassical façade. You can have breakfast under the Acropolis on your balcony in the front rooms (from 325). The design is classic, the rooms well appointed and there is an indoor swimming pool and gym as well as a rooftop pool with Acropolis views. Hotel Grande BretagneT0E95 (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Vasileos Georgiou 1, Syntagma; r/ste from 280/420; pai) If you are wealthy, the place to stay in Athens is and always has been the deluxe Hotel Grande Bretagne on Syntagma. Built in 1862 to accommodate visiting heads of state, it ranks among the grand hotels of the world. No other hotel in Athens can boast such a rich history. Completely renovated in 2002, it still retains an old-world grandeur. There is a divine spa, and the rooftop restaurant and bar is a treat. EATING Plaka is where most visitors wind up eating, at least one night. Its atmospheric streets under the floodlit Acropolis are lined with countless restaurants, tavernas and cafés. With a few exceptions, however, the food in Plaka is generally ordinary and overpriced, particularly at the outdoor restaurants around Filomousou on Kydathineon, where waiters tout tirelessly for trade. The city s best restaurants are scattered around the centre and in the suburbs. Athens dining scene has become increasingly sophisticated. You ll find modern tavernas serving new-style Greek cuisine as well as anything from fancy French restaurants to cheap Indian food. Psyrri is full of restaurants and ouzeries (mezes-style eateries), though it is getting touristy and expensive. Some fine and trendy restaurants have sprouted around the former Gasworks at Gazi. Most places in these neighbourhoods only open for dinner, and many places in Psyrri shut in summer. Monastiraki is great for souvlaki and cheap eats, while fancier restaurants line Adrianou along the rail line. Exarhia has lots of small ouzeries and tavernas to choose from, and prices are tailored to suit the pockets of the district s student clientele, while trendy new restaurants are opening along Benaki. Chic Kolonaki has some of the city s most expensive restaurants, though you can find some good-value eateries too. Overall, eating out in Athens is no longer cheap, but you can still find decent value in old-style tavernas. We ve stuck largely to downtown Athens restaurants and a few further afield worth the trek. Unless stated otherwise, all the restaurants listed here are open daily for lunch and dinner. Budget SYNTAGMA Ariston (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Voulis 10; pies ; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri) If you are after a snack on the run, you can t go wrong with traditional tiropites (cheese pies) and their various permutations. This place has been around since 1910, serving the best range of tasty, freshly baked pies with all manner of fillings. Noodle Bar (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Apollonos 11, Syntagma; mains ; h1pm-1am, closed Sun) This low-key noodle café has decently priced Asian noodle and rice dishes as well as some soups and salads. Vasilopoulos (Map pp104-5 ; Stadiou 19, Syntagma) is one of the big supermarket chain branches in central Athens. ATHENS & ATTICA

73 136 RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS Eating Runningsubhead www. www. RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS RunningSubhead Eating 137 ATHENS & ATTICA PLAKA Glykis (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Angelou Geronta 2; mezedhes ) In a quiet corner of Plaka, this casual mezedhopoleio (mezedhes restaurant) with a shady courtyard is mostly frequented by students and locals. It has a tasty selection of mezedhes, including traditional mayirefta such as briam (oven-baked vegetables) and cuttlefish in wine. Paradosiako (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Voulis 44a; mains 4-10) For great traditional fare at very fair prices you can t beat this inconspicuous, no-frills taverna on the periphery of Plaka, with a few tables on the footpath. There s a basic menu but it s best to choose from the daily specials, which include fresh and delicious seafood. Get there early before the locals arrive. Vizantino (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Kydathineon 18; specials ) This taverna is the best of the restaurants around Filomousou Eterias. Vizantino s menu is realistically priced and it s popular with locals year-round. The daily specials are good value, with dishes like stuffed tomatoes, pastitsio and its excellent fish soup (with fish served on the side, 6.80). Platanos (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Diogenous 4; mayirefta ; hclosed Sun) This age-old Plaka taverna is in a pleasant setting away from the main tourist drag, with tables outside in the courtyard under a giant plane tree. It is popular among locals and tourists for its reliable, delicious home-style fare, such as oven-baked potatoes with lemon and oregano. MONASTIRAKI & OMONIA Diporto Agoras (Map pp104-5 ; % ; cnr Theatrou & Sokratous; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, closed Aug 1-20) This quirky old taverna is one of the dining gems of Athens. There s no signage, only two doors leading to a rustic cellar where there s no menu, just a few dishes that haven t changed in years. The house speciality is revythia (chickpeas), usually followed by grilled fish and washed down with wine from one of the giant barrels lining the wall. The often erratic service is part of the appeal. Athens central market (Map pp104-5 hclosed Sun) This colourful market has the widest range of whatever is in season. The fruit and vegetable market (Map pp104 5 ) is on the western side of Athinas, and the meat market (Map pp104 5 ) is opposite, on the eastern side. The meat market section might sound like a strange place to go for a meal but the tavernas (such as the Epiros and Papandreou taverns) inside it are an Athenian institution, turning out huge quantities of tasty, traditional fare. The clientele ranges from hungry market workers, to elegant couples emerging from nightclubs at 5am in search of a bowl of hangover-busting patsas (tripe soup). The supermarket chain Marinopoulos (Map pp104-5 ; Athinas 60, Omonia) has a couple of branches in the centre of town. PSYRRI Taverna tou Psyrri (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Eshylou 12; mains ) This cheerful place is a local favourite, turning out good, traditional tav- SOUVLAKI HEAVEN There are several contenders for Athens best souvlaki, the undeniably delicious national snack the best value meal under 2. In Monastiraki, the end of Mitropoleos has become Souvlaki Central, with musicians adding to the area s, at times, festive atmosphere. Thanasis (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Mitropoleos 69, Monastiraki) is renowned for the kebab-style souvlaki, wrapped in pitta, or served on pitta with grilled tomato and onions. Directly opposite, Savas (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Mitropoleos 86, Monastiraki) specialises in gyros (Greek version of döner kebab) and has more Middle Eastern dishes like pastourmali, a tasty pastrami and cheese pie. For traditional pork skewers in pitta, there s the hole-in-the-wall Kostas (Map pp102-3 ; Adrianou 116, Plaka; h8am-2.30pm Mon-Fri), which continues the tradition of his grandfather and namesake; while Souvlaki tou Hasapi (Map pp102-3 ; Apollonos 3; Plaka; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) does a roaring trade, with tasty skewers or bifteki (meat rissoles) served with crusty bread. Night owls can find 24-hour souvlaki at Exarhia s popular Kavouras (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Themistokleous 64, Exarhia; h24hr), although after much research the author swears by the souvlaki at Hristos (Map p100 ; % ; Ymittou 129, Pangrati), a busy neighbourhood place near Youth Hostel No 5. erna food at prices well below the Psyrri norm. It s tucked away off Iroön. Look out for the colourful murals the drunk leaning against a lamp post outside and the androgynous women inside. Telis (Map pp104-5 ;% ; Evripidou 86; pork chops with chips 8; h8am-2am Mon-Sat) You can not get more basic than this fluoro-lit, barewalled, paper-tablecloth psistaria (restaurant serving grilled food). Telis has been slaving over the flame grill, cooking his famous pork chops since There s nothing else on the menu just meat and chips, Greek salad and house wine or beer. EXARHIA Food Company (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Emmanuel 63-65; dishes ; %10am-2am) This Kolonaki favourite has found a new cheery home in Exarhia. The good-value casual café-style eatery serves a range of healthy salads, wholesome dishes and hot and cold pasta and noodle dishes. The cheesecake is delicious. Barba Gianni s (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Emmanuel 94; mains ) A classic Exarhia haunt, Barba Gianni s is a popular place for traditional cooking. You can choose from the trays of mayirefta (ready-cooked meals) and daily specials at the counter. There are delicious soups and classic meat dishes such as beef in red sauce and baked pork in lemon, washed down with barrel wine by the litre. Rozalia (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Valtetsiou 58; mains ) This old-style Exarhia favourite taverna on this busy pedestrian strip is a family-run affair with a standard traditional menu. The large courtyard garden is popular in summer, when they have fans spraying water to keep you cool. Also recommended is the unassuming Cretan-style kafeneio (coffee house), Meintani (Map pp104-5 ; Themistokleous 63; mezedhes hdinner only), for excellent-value mezedhes and drinks in a tiny neighbourhood hang-out with tables on the sloping pedestrian street in the heart of Exarhia. KOLONAKI & PANGRATI Kotopoula Valsamakis (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Kolonakiou 3; ¼ chicken & chips 6.50; h8am-11pm, closed Sun) This busy taverna specialising in grilled chicken is a Kolonaki institution. It s right opposite the square look for the rotisseries outside and the diners tucking into plates piled with chicken and chips. Oikeio (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Ploutarhou 15; specials 7-12; h8am-11pm, closed Sun) With excellent home-style cooking, this modern taverna lives up to its name (homey). Oikeio is cosy on the inside and the tables on the pavement allow you to people-watch without the normal Kolonaki bill. There are traditional dishes as well as pastas and salads but try the mayirefta specials like the excellent stuffed zucchini. Vyrinis (Map p100 ; % ; Arhimidous 11, Pangrati; dishes 8-10; hlunch & dinner) Just behind the old Panathenaic stadium, this popular and relaxed neighbourhood taverna has had an impressive face-lift but has maintained its essence and prices. At Vyrinis you ll find a lovely courtyard garden, friendly waiters, simple traditional fare and decent house wine. The beef kokkinisto (type of stew in red sauce) and vegetable imam are recommended. Midrange PLAKA & SYNTAGMA To Kafeneio (Map pp102-3 ; % ; cnr Tripodon & Epiharmou 1; mezedhes ) To Kafeneio is a cosy little place with stone walls and exposed timber ceilings. This place offers an interesting assortment of mezedhes from different regions of Greece, including Cretan cheese pies and aubergine croquettes. Tzitzikas & Mermingas (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Mitropoleos 12-14, Syntagma; mezedhes ) Following the success of its two suburban restaurants, this bright, cheery, modern mezedhopoleio opened in downtown Athens. There are walls of shelves lined with Greek products, and the great range of delicious and creative mezedhes puts a spin on traditional dishes. Palia Taverna tou Psara (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Erehtheos 16, Plaka; seafood dishes ) Hidden away from the main hustle and bustle of Plaka, this fish tavern is a cut above the rest. At Palia Taverna tou Psara there is a choice of mezedhes but it is known as the best seafood tavern in Plaka. Furin Kazan (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Apollonos 2; sushi 20; h11.30am-11pm Mon-Sat) Regularly and reassuringly full of Japanese visitors, Furin Kazan is one of the best and most affordable Japanese eateries in town. It s a casual place with a good selection of rice and noodle dishes ATHENS & ATTICA

74 138 RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS Eating Runningsubhead www. www. RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS RunningSubhead Drinking 139 ATHENS & ATTICA ( 6.50 to 8) and tempura, but it s the sashimi and sushi that steal the show. AKROPOLI & THISIO Filistron (Map p101 ; % ; Apostolou Pavlou 23, Thisio; mezedhes ; hclosed Mon) You may be hard pressed finding a table for dinner at this excellent mezedhopoleio, which serves an interesting range of reasonably priced, tasty mezedhes in a prized setting a rooftop terrace overlooking the Acropolis. Try the baked potato with smoked cheese and pepper or the mastelo, a fried cheese from Chios in a tomato sauce. Strofi (Map p108 ; % ; Rovertou Galli 17, Akropoli; mezedhes ; h7pm-2am Mon-Sat) Strofi s greatest attractions are the Acropolis view from the rooftop terrace, and old-style ambience. Prices have crept up in recent years and the traditional taverna fare is still decent. It s best to share a selection of entrées and mains. To Steki tou Ilia (Map p101 ; % ; Eptahalkou 5; chops per portion/kg 8.50/28; h8pm-late) This psistaria specialising in tasty grilled lamb chops has achieved celebrity status. There are tables outside on the pedestrian strip opposite the church. For those who don t eat lamb, there are pork chops and steaks, as well as dips, chips and salads. PSYRRI & MONASTIRAKI Oineas (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Esopou 9, Psyrri; mezedhes 5-18) This cheery place on a pedestrian street in Psyrri stands out for the walls of kitsch Greek ads and retro paraphernalia. There are some creative dishes on the menu and excellent generous salads, best shared. Try the kataïfi (cheese pie made with angel-hair pastry). Café Avyssinia (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Kynetou 7, Monastiraki; mains ; hlunch & dinner Tue-Sat, lunch only Sun) Hidden away on the edge of grungy Avyssinias in the middle of the Flea Market, this mezedhopoleio gets top marks for atmosphere and the food is not far behind. It specialises in regional dishes and there is often live music on weekends. The gavros (marinated small fish) is a favourite dish. Kuzina (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Adrianou 9, Thisio; mains ) A classy newcomer on Adrianou, with tables outside next to the Temple of Haphaestus, Kuzina serves creative Greek cuisine with largely successful results. The interior design is superb, as is the view from the terrace bar. OMONIA & EXARHIA Yiantes (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Valtetsiou 44, Exarhia; mains ) This modern taverna set in a lovely garden courtyard is next to an open-air cinema. It is considered pricey for Exarhia, superb and made with largely organic produce. Try the goat cooked in a clay pot. Arheon Gefsis (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Kodratou 22, Metaxourghio; mains 10-20; htues-sat) This gimmicky but fun place turns the clock back 2500 years to ancient Greece. The waiters dress in flowing robes and there are no glasses the ancients used earthenware cups and spoons instead of forks. The menu derives from ancient times; roast meats and fish dominate, served with purées of peas or chickpeas and vegetables. GAZI & ROUF Kanella (Map p101 ; % ; Konstantinoupoleos 70, Gazi; dishes ; hnoon-late) Homemade village-style bread, retro mismatched crockery and brown-paper tablecloths set the tone for this trendy taverna opposite the train line. There are daily one-pot and oven-baked specials and grills, some done with a modern twist, and an excellent zucchini and avocado salad. Skoufias (Map p101 ; % ; Vasiliou Megalou 50, Rouf; mains 7-10; h9pm-late) This gem of a taverna at the tail end of Gazi is a little off the beaten track but is worth seeking out. There are tables outside opposite the church. The menu has Cretan influences and an eclectic selection of regional Greek cuisine, including many dishes you are unlikely to find in any tourist joint. Meat eaters will love the tender kotsi (pork shank; 15), which is best shared. osardelles (Map p101 ; % ; Persefonis 15, Gazi; fish dishes ) As the name (Sardines) suggests and the novel fishmonger paper tablecloths confirm, this modern fish taverna specialises in seafood mezedhes. It s a friendly place with tables outside, opposite the illuminated gasworks, excellent service and nice touches such as the souvenir little pots of basil. Try the grilled sardines and taramasalata. Mamacas (Map p101 ; % ; Persefonis 41, Gazi; grills ; h8pm-late) This Gazi trailblazer was one of the city s first modern tavernas, with its Greek island-meets-grunge look and upmarket (and consequently more expensive) takes on the classics. There are trays of mayirefta inside and a range of grills and appetisers. It has expanded across the road and added a trendy bar. Top End There are plenty of upmarket, blow-thebudget dining options in Athens. Reservations are essential. Plous Podilatou (Map p153 ; % ; Akti Koumoundourou 42, Piraeus; mains 12-20) Dining by the Mikrolimano harbour is a delight, and the food at this slick restaurant will not disappoint either. The year-round sister restaurant of pioneering Nuevo-Greek Kitrino Podilato has a Mediterranean menu with an emphasis on fresh fish and seafood. Varoulko (Map p101 ; % ; Pireos 80, Gazi; mains 20-30; hdinner Mon-Sat) For a magical Greek dining experience, you can t beat the winning combination of Acropolis views and delicious seafood by celebrated Greek chef Lefteris Lazarou. He moved to these slick premises from Piraeus, where he earned his Michelin rating the only Greek chef with the honour. The restaurant has a superb rooftop terrace. Lazarou specialises in fish and seafood creations, though there are also meat dishes on the menu. The service is faultless and the wine list most agreeable. Orizontes (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Lykavittos Hill; dishes 23-38) For a special night out, you can take the cable car up to the peak of Lykavittos and watch the sun set over Athens. The menu at this upmarket restaurant is Mediterranean/ international and the food and service are excellent, as is the wine list. Papadakis (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Fokylidou 15; mains 16-50; hclosed Sun) Up in the foothills of Lykavittos, this understatedly chic restaurant is an offshoot of the owner s successful restaurant on Paros. Seafood is the speciality, with creative dishes such as the stewed octopus with honey and sweet wine, the delicious salatouri (fish salad) with small fish, and sea salad (type of green seaweed/sea asparagus). Spondi (Map p100 ; % ; Pironos 5, Pangrati; mains 37-55; h8pm-late) This superb restaurant has been consistently voted Athens best and the accolades are totally deserved. Spondi offers Mediterranean haute cuisine, with heavy French influences, in a relaxed, classy setting. There is a lovely garden terrace draped in bougainvillea in summer. This is definitely a special-occasion place. There is a range of set dinner and wine menus. DRINKING Cafés Athens seems to have more cafés per capita than virtually any other city and most of the time they are packed with Athenians sipping the ubiquitous frappé, prompting many a visitor to wonder if anyone ever works in this city. More recently, the burning question is why they have Europe s most expensive coffee (between 3 and 5). One unconvincing justification is that you actually hire the chair, not just pay for coffee, as people sit on a coffee for hours. In chic Kolonaki, Da Capo (Map pp106-7 ; Tsakalof 1, Kolonaki) has excellent coffee, but it is also a prime people-watching spot. It s self-serve if you can find a table. GAY & LESBIAN ATHENS Athens has a relatively low-key gay and lesbian scene, though it is gaining prominence. A new breed of gay and gay-friendly clubs has opened around town, predominantly around Gazi and Psyrri. The more established gay bars and clubs are located around Makrygianni, including the veteran Granazi ( Map p108 ; % ; Lembesi 20, Makrygianni) and the busy three-level Lamda Club (Map p108 ; % ; Lembesi 15, Makrygianni), on the corner of Syngrou. The best place to start the night in Gazi is Blue Train (Map p101 ; % ; Konstantinoupoleos) along the railway line, which has a club upstairs. Sodade (Map p101 ; % ; Triptolemou 10, Gazi) attracts a young clubbing crowd. Alekos Island (Map pp104-5 ; Sarri 41, Psyrri) attracts a more sedate crowd. Limanakia, below the rocky coves of Varkiza, is a popular gay beach. Take the tram or A2/E2 express bus to Glyfada, then take 115 or 116 to the Limanakia B stop. Check out or the limited English information at or look for a copy of the Greek Gay Guide booklet at periptera (street kiosks) around town. ATHENS & ATTICA

75 140 RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS Entertainment Runningsubhead www. www. RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS RunningSubhead Entertainment 141 ATHENS & ATTICA Another café-thick area to head to includes Adrianou, along the Ancient Agora, where you ll discover students and young people filling the shady tables at Dioskouri (Adrianou 39). Further along the pedestrian promenade along Apostolou Pavous, you ll get great Acropolis views from Athinaion Politeia (Map p101 ; Akamandos 1). Bars In Athens the line between café and bar is often blurred, as you can drink just about anywhere and any time; some bars are also restaurants that become clubs late at night. There are very few pubs and the few beer houses are normally expensive. As every neighbourhood has its fair share of bars, Athens offers endless bar-hopping opportunities. It is best to head to one of the city s bar hot spots and explore the field until you find the bar of your liking. In Gazi, you will find people spilling out into the street from the bars, including the trailblazer Gazaki (Map p101 Triptolemou 31), which has a great rooftop bar. Or you can get some fresh air on the terrace of the rock bar 45 Moires (Map p101 ; Iakou 18 & Voutadon), overlooking the old gasworks chimney stacks, or join the cool crowd at Hoxton (Map p101 ; Voutadon 42). Psyrri has many lively bars. You could try the mainstream Fidelio (Map pp104-5 ; Ogygou 2), which has a retractable roof, or head to the cool Soul (Map pp104-5 ; Evripidou 65), which has a dance club upstairs. The latest trend is the funky bars popping up in obscure alleys and formerly deserted backstreets of downtown Athens. A spate of new places have opened in the same lane where people were spilling out of Kinky (Map pp104-5 ; Avramiotou 6-8). Bartessera (Map pp104-5 ; Kolokotroni 25) is at the end of a narrow arcade, while another safe bet downtown is Magaze (Map pp104-5 ; Eolou 33), which has bonus Acropolis views. In Kolonaki, the two main drinking haunts are the strip of bars at the top end of Skoufa, where Rosebud (Map pp106-7 ; Skoufa & Omirou 60) is a good start, or you can join the crowds squeezing into the tiny bars on Haritos, such as City (Map pp106-7 ; Haritos 43). Exarhia is a good bet for lively bars with marginally cheaper drinks. Wunderbar (Map pp104-5 ; Themistokleous 80), on Exarhia Sq, is a decent place to start, while a new cheap bar precinct is emerging on nearby Mesolongiou. In Thisio, the multizoned Stavlos (Map p101 ; Iraklidon 10) is a veteran of the string of cafés and bars along Iraklidon s pedestrian precinct. It plays mainly alternative music inside and more mellow sounds in the garden. You won t find any happening bars in Plaka, but Brettos (Map pp102-3 ; Kydathineon 41, Plaka) is a delightful old bar with a stunning wall of colourful bottles and huge barrels lining one wall. You can sample shots of Brettos home brand of ouzo, brandy and other spirits as well as the family wine. ENTERTAINMENT The best source of entertainment information is the weekly Athinorama ( 1.50), but you ll need to be able to read some Greek to make much sense of it. English-language listings appear daily in the Kathimerini supplement in the International Herald Tribune, while the Athens News has an entertainment guide. Cinemas Athenians are avid cinema-goers. Most cinemas show recent releases in English (they don t dub them) but arthouse foreign films have Greek subtitles. In summer, Athenians prefer outdoor cinemas (see opposite ). Admission costs around 7. The following cinemas are in central Athens: Apollon & Attikon (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Stadiou 19, Syntagma) Astor (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Stadiou 28, Syntagma) Asty (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Koraï 4, Syntagma) Ideal (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Panepistimiou 46) Classical Music & Opera In summer the main cultural activity takes place at the historic Odeon of Herodes Atticus and other venues under the auspices of the Hellenic Festival ( p130 ). Megaron (Athens Concert Hall; Map pp106-7 ; % ; Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias & Kokkali 1, Ilissia; hbox office 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) The city s state-of-the-art concert hall presents a rich winter programme of operas and concerts featuring world-class international and Greek performers. The Greek National Opera (Ethniki Lyriki Skini; % ; season runs from November to June. Performances are usually held at the Olympia Theatre (Map pp104-5 ; MOONLIGHT CINEMA One of the delights of warm summer nights in Athens is the enduring tradition of open-air cinema, where you can watch the latest Hollywood or arthouse flick under the moonlight. Many original outdoor cinemas are still operating in gardens and on rooftops around Athens, with refurbished facilities and modern sound systems. The most historic outdoor cinema is the refurbished Aigli (Map pp102-3 ; % ) in the verdant Zappeio Gardens, where you can watch a movie in style with a glass of wine. Try to nab a seat with Acropolis views (seats on the right) on the rooftop of Plaka s Cine Paris (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Kydathineon 22, Plaka) or meander around the foothills of the Acropolis to Thission (Map p101 ; % ; Apostolou Pavlou 7, Thisio). % ; Akadimias 59, Exarhia) or the Odeon of Herodes Atticus in summer. Greek Folk Dancing Dora Stratou Dance Theatr e Map p101 ; % ; Filopappou Hill; adult/concession 15/10; hperformances 9.30pm Tue-Sat, 8.15pm Sun May- Sep) Every summer the Dora Stratou company performs its repertoire of folk dances from all over Greece at its own open-air theatre on the western side of Filopappou Hill. Formed to preserve the country s folk culture, it has gained an international reputation for authenticity and professionalism. It also runs folk-dancing workshops through the summer months. The theatre is signposted from the western end of Dionysiou Areopagitou. Take trolleybus 22 from Syntagma and get off at Agios Ioannis. Live Music ROCK Athens has a healthy rock music scene and is on most European touring schedules. In summer check Rockwave and other festival schedules ( p131 ), as you may be able to see your favourite band perform in open-air theatres around town. Gagarin 205 Club (Map p100 ; Liosion 205) The Gagarin 205 Club is primarily a rock venue, with gigs on Friday and Saturday nights featuring leading rock and underground music bands. Tickets are available from Ticket House ( p130 ). AN Club (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Solomou 13-15, Exarhia) The small AN Club hosts lesser-known international bands, as well as some interesting local bands. Mike s Irish Bar (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Sinopis 6, Ambelokipi; h8pm-4am) A longtime favourite of the city s expatriate community, who come here to play darts and sip pints of Guinness or Murphy s stout. There s live music Wednesday to Saturday from 11.30pm. Beers are expensive. JAZZ & WORLD MUSIC All the places listed here have a cover charge depending on the performances. Note that they are normally closed during July and August. Half Note Jazz Club (Map p108 ; % ; Trivonianou 17, Mets) The stylish Half Note, opposite the Athens cemetery, is the city s principal and most serious jazz venue. It hosts an interesting array of international names. Alavastro Café (Map p100 ; % ; Damareos 78, Pangrati) The Alavastro features an eclectic mix of modern jazz, ethnic and quality Greek music in a casual and intimate venue, with regular appearances by talented local Armenian Haig Hazdjian. Small Music Theatre (Map p108m03e6 ; % ; Veïkou 33, Koukaki) This small venue hosts an interesting assortment of bands, often jazz and fusion. Palenque (Map pp106-7 M03A9 ;% ; Farandaton 41, Ambelokipi; h9.30pm-late) A slice of Havana in Athens, Palenque presents regular live music, with artists from around the world, salsa parties and flamenco shows. You can take free tango lessons early in the evening. Greek Music REMBETIKA CLUBS Athens has a good number of clubs playing rembetika (the Greek blues) but most close down from May to September. Most play a combination of rembetika and laïka (urban popular music). Performances start at around 11.30pm; most places do not have a cover charge but drinks are expensive. ATHENS & ATTICA

76 142 RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS Entertainment Runningsubhead www. www. RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS RunningSubhead Shopping 143 ATHENS & ATTICA Rembetiki Stoa Athanaton (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Sofokleous 19, Syntagma; h3-6pm & midnight- 6am Mon-Sat Oct-May) The almost legendary Stoa Athanaton occupies a hall above the central meat market. It is a popular venue where you can hear classic rembetika and laïka from a respected band of musicians from midafternoon. Access is by a lift in the arcade. Perivoli Tou Ouranou (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Lysikratous 19, Plaka; h9pm-late Thu-Sun, closed Jul-Aug) A favourite Plaka music haunt in a rustic old-style venue where you can have dinner and listen to authentic laïka and rembetika by leading exponents. Mousikes Skies (Map p100 ; % ; Athanasias 4, Pangrati; h8pm-late, closed Aug) This cosy music venue is run by the charming singer Katerina and her bouzouki-playing husband, who lead a talented ensemble of young musicians. You will hear a range of rembetika and laïka played by people who clearly love what they do. You can also enjoy mezedhes and an outdoor courtyard in summer. Kavouras (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Themistokleous 64, Exarhia; h11pm-late, closed Jul-Aug) Above Exarhia s popular souvlaki joint, this lively club usually has a decent line-up of musicians playing rembetika and laïka until dawn. You can also hear rembetika in summer on a lovely restaurant terrace at Stoa Pilkilis (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Ag Fililpou 14, Thisio), though the music outshines the food. TRADITIONAL MUSIC TAVERNAS Mostrou (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Mnisikleous 22, cnr Lyssiou, Plaka; h9pm-late Sun-Thu, 10.30pm-late Fri & Sat) A classic Plaka taverna, popular for its live music (Thursday to Sunday). It has a full-sized stage and dance floor and gets very lively. A good place for traditional music and dancing if you can t face a nightclub or rembetika club. In summer, there s more-sedate live music on the terrace. Palea Plakiotiki Taverna Stamatopoulos (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Lyssiou 26, Plaka; h7pm-2am Mon-Sat, 11am-2am Sun) Stamatopoulos is something of a Plaka institution, with reasonable food and live music nightly. It s popular with locals and can get extremely busy later in the evening, so you ll need to get in early to be assured of a table. Nightclubs Athens is known for its nightlife and has clubs to suit all musical tastes. Admission to some clubs ranges from 10 Monday to Thursday to 15 on Friday and Saturday nights. The price usually includes one drink. Expect to pay about 5 for a beer and 7 to 8 for spirits. Clubs get busy around midnight. Most of the top clubs close in summer or move to outdoor venues by the beach. Envy (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Agias Eleousis & Kakourgodikiou, Psyrri; hwed-sat) The name changes at this popular club, but the venue seems to be fixed. It plays the latest dance music in Psyrri during winter and in summer moves the partying to the ever-changing beachside venues. Kalua (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Amerikis 6, Syntagma) This established downtown club plays mainstream music and the odd Greek disco hit and usually rocks till dawn. Don t bother getting there before midnight. Lava Bore (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Filellinon 25, Plaka; h10pm-5am) The central Lava Bore is by no means one of the city s in clubs, but it stays open all year, and caters largely to tourists. The formula remains much the same: a mixture of mainstream rock and dance music and (relatively) cheap drinks. It s far more casual that most Athenian clubs. Summer Clubs There are some great open-air city venues, but in summer the city s nightlife also moves to flashy clubs on the seafront. Many clubs are on the tram route, which runs 24 hours on weekends. Admission at most places is the same as the clubs ( left ). Dress up if you want to ensure you get in the door. Akrotiri (% ; Vasileos Georgiou B 5, Agios Kosmas; admission 10; h10pm-5am) This popular beach club is massive, with a capacity for 3000, and bars and lounges over different levels. It hosts great party nights with top resident and visiting DJs. Balux (% ; Leoforos Poseidonos 58, Glyfada; admission 15; h10pm-late) This glamorous club right on the beach has to be seen to be believed. There is a huge pool surrounded by lounges and four-poster beds with flowing nets, and a top line-up of local and guest DJs. Vitrine (Map p108 ; % ; Markou Mousourou 1, Mets; admission Fri-Sat 15; h10pm-late) The name of this venue may keep changing but the superb Acropolis and city views from the top never do. On the Road (Map p108 ; % ; Ardittou 1, Zappeio; admission Thu-Sat 12; h10pm-late, closed Mon) A classic summer haunt literally in the middle of the road where you might get a dance. Lallabai Garden (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Zappeio; admission 12; h10pm-late) Right in the middle of the Zappeio Gardens, this place oozes cool in every sense. The setting is superb, the music relatively mainstream and there s pricey finger food. Other beach bars worth seeking out are Club 22 in Faliro and if you can make the trek, the dreamy Island, past Vouliagmeni. Sport The Athens 2004 Olympics left a legacy of world-class sports stadiums, and Athens has begun attracting some major international and European sporting and athletic events. The most popular local sports are soccer and basketball. Sports fans should contact local clubs or sporting bodies directly for match information or check the English-language press or The Greek Secretariat for Sport ( has information on sports organisations and stadiums. SOCCER Greece s top teams are Athens-based Panathinaikos, AEK and Piraeus-based Olympiakos, all three of which are in the European s Champions league. Olympiakos has dominated on the domestic front; its Greek championship win was its 10th in the last 11 seasons. Panathinaïkos, however, has enjoyed greater success on the European stage. Generally, tickets to major games can be bought on the day at the venue. Big games take place at the Olympic Stadium in Maroussi and the Karaiskaki stadium in Piraeus, the country s best soccer stadium. Information on Greek soccer and fixtures can be found on club websites or BASKETBALL The biggest basketball games in Athens take place at the Stadium of Peace and Friendship (% ; Ethnarhou Makariou) in Palio Faliro. Basketball receives little pre-match publicity, so you ll need to ask a local or check the website of the Hellenic Basketball Association ( ATHLETICS The annual Athens Marathon is held on the first Sunday in November and finishes at the historic marble Panathenaic Stadium ( p119 ). More than 3000 runners from around the world tackle the 42km event, following the historic route run by Pheidippides in 490 BC from the battlefield at Marathon to Athens to deliver the news of victory against the Persians (before collapsing and dying from exhaustion). Theatre Athens has more theatres than any city in Europe but, as you d expect, most performances are in Greek. Theatre buffs may enjoy a performance of an old favourite if they know the play well enough. There is the occasional performance in English. The National Theatre (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Agiou Konstantinou 22-24, Omonia) is one of the city s finest neoclassical buildings. SHOPPING Athens main central shopping street is Ermou, the pedestrian strip that runs from Syntagma to Monastiraki. Most mainstream clothing and footwear stores can be found along Ermou, which must take the prize for the number of shoe shops per square kilometre. Top-brand international designers and jewellers are located around Syntagma and the Citylink complex, all the way up pedestrian Voukourestiou, which leads to Kolonaki the place for designer boutiques. Plaka and Monastiraki are where most tourists shop for their souvenirs. There are excellent gift shops at the Benaki Museum ( p121 ) and the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic and Ancient Greek Art ( p121 ). Jewellery stores are rife in Plaka and around Mitropoleos, though most of the more interesting ones are hidden away in the backstreets. The big department stores are found on Stadiou, stretching from Syntagma to Omonia. Kifisia and Glyfada also have excellent high-end shopping opportunities. ATHENS & ATTICA

77 144 RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS Getting Runningsubhead There & Away www. www. RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS Getting RunningSubhead There & Away 145 ATHENS & ATTICA Flea Markets Athens traditional Monastiraki Flea Market (Map pp102 3 ) has a festive atmosphere, with the nearby cafés and restaurants brimming on weekends. The permanent antique, furniture and collectables stores have plenty to sift through and are open all week, while on Sunday the streets around the station and Adrianou are lined with vendors selling mostly jewellery and handicrafts. The big Sunday Flea Market (Map p101 ), however, now takes place at the end of Ermou, towards Gazi, where traders peddle their stuff from the crack of dawn and you can find some bargains, interesting collectables and kitsch delights among the junk. This is the place to test your haggling skills. It winds up around 2pm. Speciality Foods You can find a delectable array of food at the colourful Central Market ( p136 ). Mesogaia (Map pp102-3 ; % ; cnr Nikis & Kydathineon, Plaka) This small shop boasts a wonderful array of the finest produce from around the country, including delicious cheeses, herbs, honey, jams, olive oil and wine. To Pantopoleion (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Sofokleous 1, cnr Aristidou, Omonia) This expansive store sells traditional food products from all over Greece, from Santorini capers to boutique olive oils and Cretan rusks. There are jars of sweets and goodies for edible souvenirs, a large range of Greek wines and spirits, and a fresh deli if you can wait until you get home. Traditional Handicrafts Amorgos (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Kodrou 3, Plaka; h11am-3pm & 6-8pm Mon-Fri) This charming store is crammed with Greek folk art, trinkets, ceramics, embroideries and woodcarved furniture made by the owner, while his wife runs the store. Centre of Hellenic Tradition (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Pandrosou 36, Plaka; h10am-7.30pm) Upstairs from the arcade are great examples of traditional ceramics, sculptures and handicrafts from around Greece. There is also a great ouzerie and a gallery on the 1st floor. Melissinos Art (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Agias Theklas 2, Psyrri; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat 10am-6pm Sun) Artist Pantelis Melissinos continues the sandalmaking tradition of his famous poet-sandalmaker father Stavros, who names the Beatles, Rudolph Nureyev, Sophia Loren and Jackie Onassis among his past customers. But fame and fortune have not gone to Stavros head; he still makes the best-value sandals based on ancient Greek styles in natural leather, a tradition continued by artist son Pantelis. Music Metropolis Music (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Panepistimiou 64, Omonia) This music haven is well stocked with Greek and international CDs, with extensive specialist sections. Its bigger Greek selection is in the dedicated Greek music store a few doors down and it sells tickets to many shows around town. Xylouris (Map pp104-5 ; % ; louris.gr; arcade, Panepistimiou 39) This music treasure trove is run by the son and widow of the Cretan legend Nikos Xylouris. Yiorgos is a font of knowledge and can guide you through the comprehensive range of traditional and contemporary Greek music, including select and rare recordings. There s a big world music section and, of course, plenty of Cretan music. GETTING THERE & AWAY Air Athens is served by Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport (Map p155 ; % ; at Spata, 27km east of Athens. The state-of-the-art airport, named in honour of the country s leading 20th-century politician, has all the standard facilities like cafés, restaurants and banks, great shopping and a transit hotel. If you have time to kill, it is worth visiting the small archaeological museum on the 1st floor above the check-in hall. The airport website has real-time flight information. See p149 for information on public transport to/from the airport. DOMESTIC FLIGHTS The majority of domestic flights are operated by Olympic Airlines (Map p108 ; % , ; Leoforos Syngrou 96). Olympic takes credit card bookings online, by phone and also has branch offices at Syntagma (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Filellinon 15, Syntagma) and Omonia (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Kotopoulou 1, Omonia). Olympic Airlines has several daily flights to Thessaloniki, Iraklio, Mykonos and Santorini, Rhodes and all Greek airports. Average one-way fares range from 76 to 120, but vary dramatically depending on the season you re travelling, so check for specials and book in advance if you can. Aegean Airlines (reservations % , ; Syntagma Map pp102-3 ; % ; Othonos 15, Syntagma) competes with Olympic on the most popular domestic routes. Aegean has the best earlybird specials and bookings can be made online. Aegean has daily flights to Thessaloniki, Iraklio, Rhodes, Mykonos, Santorini and Hania, as well as several flights weekly to key destinations around Greece. INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS For information on international services from Athens, see p733. Boat Most ferry, hydrofoil and high speed catamaran services to the islands leave from Athens massive port at Piraeus ( p152 ). Piraeus is the busiest port in Greece, with a bewildering array of departures and destinations, including daily services to all the island groups, except the Ionians and the Sporades. The departure points for ferry destinations are shown on Map p153. There are also ferry and high-speed services for Evia and the Cyclades from the smaller ports at Rafina ( right ) and Lavrio ( right ). You can pick up a weekly ferry schedule from the EOT tourist office ( p110 ) in Athens; check the daily schedules in the International Herald Tribune or search online at or See the Getting There & Away sections for each island for specific details, and p740 for general information about ferry travel. Note that there are two departure points for Crete. Ferries for Iraklio leave from the western end of Akti Kondyli in Piraeus, but ferries for other Cretan ports occasionally dock there as well. It s a long way to the other departure point for Crete on Akti Miaouli, so check where to find your boat when you buy your ticket. Most hydrofoil and high-speed catamaran services from Piraeus to the Saronic Gulf Islands, the Peloponnese and a growing range of destinations in the Cyclades are run by Hellenic Seaways (Map p153 ; % ; cnr Akti Kondyli & Elotikou, Great Harbour). Other operators include Aegean Speedlines (% ; For additional information on ferries, contact the Piraeus Port Authority (%1441). TICKETS To book a berth in a cabin or take a car on board a ferry, it is advisable to buy a ticket in advance in Athens. Otherwise, agents selling ferry tickets are thick on the ground around Karaïskaki in Piraeus and at the Rafina and Lavrio ports. You can also normally purchase tickets at the quay next to each ferry. Contrary to what some agents might tell you, it costs no more to buy tickets at the boat. It is advisable to book ahead for all highspeed services, especially for travel on weekends. For more information about ferry and high-speed services and companies, see p743 and the Getting There & Away sections of the island chapters throughout this book. RAFINA Rafina, on Attica s east coast, is Athens main fishing port and the second-most important port for passenger ferries. The port is far smaller than Piraeus and less confusing and fares are about 20% cheaper but it does take an hour on the bus to get there. Rafina port police (% ) occupies a kiosk near the quay. Blue Star Ferries (% ; ferries.com) is the main operator of catamarans from Rafina to the Cyclades. There are frequent buses between Athens and Rafina from the Mavromateon bus terminal ( 1.90, one hour) between 5.45am and 10.30pm. LAVRIO Lavrio, an industrial town on the east coast of Attica, is the port for ferries to Kea and Kythnos and high-season catamarans to the western Cyclades. It s scheduled to become a major container port, with a rail link to Athens. Buses ATHENS & ATTICA

78 146 RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS Getting Runningsubhead There & Away www. www. RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS Getting RunningSubhead There & Away 147 ATHENS & ATTICA FERRY & HIGH-SPEED SERVICES FROM ATHENS & ATTICA C re te Destination Port Service Duration Fare Frequency Agios Nikolaos Piraeus ferry 14hr 34 3 weekly Hania Piraeus ferry 10hr daily Hania Piraeus catamaran 4½hr 53 daily Iraklio Piraeus ferry 10hr daily Rethymno Piraeus ferry 10hr 29 1 daily Rethymno Piraeus catamaran 5hr 55 4 weekly Sitia Piraeus ferry 14½hr 34 3 weekly Cyclades Destination Port Service Duration Fare Frequency Anafi Piraeus ferry 11hr weekly Andros Rafina ferry 2hr daily Folegandros Piraeus ferry 6-9hr weekly Ios Piraeus ferry 7½hr daily Ios Piraeus catamaran 3¾hr 47 1 daily Kea (Tzia) Lavrio ferry 1hr 5 daily Kimolos Piraeus ferry 6hr weekly Kythnos Piraeus ferry 2½hr weekly Kythnos Piraeus catamaran 1¾hr 27 5 weekly Milos Piraeus ferry 7hr weekly Milos Piraeus catamaran 4¼hr 42 daily Mykonos Piraeus ferry 5½hr daily Mykonos Piraeus catamaran 3½hr 46 2 daily Mykonos Rafina ferry 4½hr 19 2 daily Mykonos Rafina catamaran 2hr 10min daily Naxos Piraeus ferry 6hr 30 4 daily Naxos Piraeus catamaran 4hr daily Paros Piraeus ferry 5hr daily Paros Piraeus catamaran 3hr daily Paros Rafina catamaran 3hr daily Santorini Piraeus ferry 9hr 34 4 daily Santorini Piraeus catamaran 5¼hr 52 daily Serifos Piraeus ferry 4½hr daily Serifos Piraeus catamaran 2¼hr 33 2 daily Sifnos Piraeus ferry 5½hr daily Sifnos Piraeus catamaran 2¾hr 37 2 daily Syros Piraeus ferry 4hr daily Syros Piraeus catamaran 2½hr 39 2 daily Tinos Piraeus ferry 4½hr daily Tinos Piraeus catamaran 3hr 42 daily Tinos Rafina catamaran 1¾hr 35 4 daily Tinos Rafina ferry 3¾hr 18 1 daily Dodecanese Destination Port Service Duration Fare Frequency Astypalea Piraeus ferry 12hr weekly Kalymnos Piraeus ferry 10-13hr daily Karpathos Piraeus ferry 20hr weekly Kasos Piraeus ferry 20-29hr weekly Kos Piraeus ferry 12-15hr daily Leros Piraeus ferry 11hr 25 daily Lipsi Piraeus ferry 13hr weekly Nisyros Piraeus ferry 13-15hr weekly Patmos Piraeus ferry 9½hr 25 daily Rhodes Piraeus ferry 15-18hr daily Symi* Piraeus ferry 15-17hr weekly Tilos Piraeus ferry 15hr weekly *via Rhodes Northeastern Aegean Islands Destination Port Service Duration Fare Frequency Chios Piraeus ferry 6-8hr daily Fourni Piraeus ferry 11hr 30 3 weekly Ikaria Piraeus ferry 10hr 30 daily Lesvos Piraeus ferry 8-12hr daily Limnos Piraeus ferry 20hr 27 1 weekly Samos Piraeus ferry 12hr daily Saronic Gulf Islands Destination Port Service Duration Fare Frequency Aegina Piraeus ferry 1hr 8 hourly Aegina Piraeus hydrofoil 40min 12 hourly Hydra Piraeus ferry 3½hr daily Hydra Piraeus hydrofoil 1hr 40min 21 8 daily Poros Piraeus ferry 2½hr daily Poros Piraeus hydrofoil 1hr 19 8 daily Spetses Piraeus ferry 4½hr daily Spetses Piraeus hydrofoil 2hr daily Peloponnese Destination Port Service Duration Fare Frequency Ermioni Piraeus hydrofoil 2hr daily Porto Heli Piraeus hydrofoil 2hr 30 4 daily Ev i a Destination Port Service Duration Fare Frequency Evia (Marmari) Rafina ferry 1hr 6 5 daily ATHENS & ATTICA run every 30 minutes to Lavrio from the Mavromateon terminal in Athens. Lavrio Port Authority (% ) has ferry information. Goutos Lines (% ) is the main operator for ferries from Lavrio to Kea. B u s Athens has two intercity KTEL ( bus terminals. Terminal A, 7km northwest of Omonia, has departures to the Peloponnese, the Ionians and western Greece. Terminal B, 5km north of Omonia, caters to central and northern Greece, and to Evia. The EOT office (p110 ) gives out an intercity bus schedule. MAVROMATEON TERMINAL Buses for destinations in southern Attica leave from the Mavromateon terminal (Map p100 ; % ; Alexandras & 28 Oktovriou-Patision, Pedion Areos), about 250m north of the National Archaeological Museum. Buses to Rafina and Marathon leave from the terminal 150m to the north on Mavromateon.

79 148 RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS Getting Runningsubhead There & Away www. www. RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS RunningSubhead Getting Around 149 ATHENS & ATTICA BUS SERVICES FROM MAVROMATEON TERMINAL Destination Duration Fare Frequency Cape Sounion 1½hr 4.50 hourly (coast road) Lavrio port 1¼hr 3.80 half-hourly Marathon 1¼hr 2.90 hourly Rafina port 1hr 1.90 half-hourly TERMINAL A Terminal A (% ; Kifisou 100) is not a good introduction to Athens particularly if you arrive after midnight when there is no public transport. See p150 for details of fares, and p110 for information on taxi rip-offs. Bus 051 goes to central Athens (junction of Zinonos and Menandrou, near Omonia) every 15 minutes from 5am to midnight. A taxi from the terminal to Syntagma should cost no more than 6. KEY BUS DESTINATIONS FROM TERMINAL A Destination Duration Fare Frequency Corfu* 9hr daily Epidavros 2½hr daily Igoumenitsa 7hr daily Kalavryta 3hr daily Lefkada 5hr daily Nafplio 2½hr hourly Olympia 5hr daily Patra 3hr half-hourly Zakynthos* 6hr daily *includes ferry ticket TERMINAL B Terminal B (off Map p100 ; Liosion 260, Kato Patisia) is less chaotic and much easier to handle than Terminal A, although again there is no public transport from midnight to 5am. The terminal is in Gousiou, a side street off Liosion 260. Take bus 024, from outside the main gate of the National Gardens (Map pp102 3 ) on Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias and ask to get off at Praktoria KTEL. A taxi to Syntagma should cost no more than 6. KEY BUS DESTINATIONS FROM TERMINAL B Destination Duration Fare Frequency Agios 2½hr hourly Konstantinos Delphi 3hr 13 6 daily Halkida 1hr 5.90 half-hourly Karpenisi 5hr daily Trikala 4½hr 22 8 daily Volos 4¼hr daily Car & Motorcycle Getting in and out of Athens is significantly easier thanks to the new Attiki Odos, and the upgraded National Rd (Ethniki Odos) as well as various ring roads around the city. The top end of Leoforos Syngrou, near the Temple of Olympian Zeus, is lined with carrental firms. Local companies tend to offer better deals than the multinationals, so it pays to do the rounds to get the best price. The average price you can expect to pay for a small car for a day is 60, and much less for three or more days. Avis (Map p108 ; % ; Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias 48) Budget (Map p108 ; % ; Leoforos Syngrou 8) Europcar (Map p108 ; % ; Leoforos Syngrou 43) Hertz (Map p108 ; % ; Leoforos Syngrou 12) Sixt (Map p108 ; % ; Leoforos Syngrou 23) You can rent mopeds and motorcycles if you have a licence and the nerve to take on Athens traffic. Motorent (Map p108 ; % ; Rovertou Galli 1, Makrygianni) has a choice of machines from 50cc to 250cc (high-season prices start at 16 per day). Train Intercity trains to central and northern Greece depart from the central Larisis train station (Map p100 ), located about 1km northeastwest of Omonia Sq (metro Line 2). For the Peloponnese, take the suburban rail to Kiato and change for other OSE services there. A new rail hub (SKA) is going to be located about 20km north of the city. OSE (%1110; h24hr) offices at Omonia (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Karolou 1; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri) and Syntagma (Map pp104-5 ; % ; Sina 6; h8am-3pm Mon-Sat) handle advance bookings. See p736 for information on international train services. TRAINS FOR NORTHERN GREECE & EVIA Destination Duration Fare Frequency Alexandroupoli 13hr 50min daily (Intercity) 10½hr daily Halkida 1½hr daily Thessaloniki 6hr daily (Intercity) 5hr 10min daily (Intercity Express) 4¼hr daily Volos 5hr 15min daily (Intercity) 4hr 40min daily TRAINS FOR PELOPONNESE Destination Duration Fare Frequency Corinth 1hr 20min daily (suburban rail) Kiato (suburban 1hr 35min daily rail) Kiato-Diakofto* 3hr min daily (Intercity) 2½hr daily Diakofto- 1hr 5min 1.60 Kalavryta** Kiato-Patra 2hr daily (Intercity) 1hr 40min daily Kiato-Pyrgos 4hr daily (Intercity) 3hr 20min daily Pyrgos-Olympia 30min daily *from Kiato, you can change to slow or intercity services **check, as service was temporarily suspended GETTING AROUND To/From the Airport Getting to/from the airport has never been easier or faster since the metro and suburban rail began operating. The cheapest alternative is the bus. You can also take the suburban rail to Piraeus. BUS Express buses operate between the airport and the city centre, Piraeus and KTEL bus terminals. Bus X92 operates between the airport and the suburb of Kifisia (about 55 minutes), departing every 45 minutes to one hour all day. Bus X93 operates between the airport and the Terminal B (Kifisos) bus station (about 35 minutes), departing every 30 minutes all day. Bus X94 operates between the airport and Ethniki Amyna metro station (about 25 minutes), departing every 10 minutes between 7.30am and 11.30pm. Bus X95 operates between the airport and Syntagma 24 hours (every 30 minutes). The journey takes about an hour, depending on traffic. The Syntagma bus stop is on Othonos St. Bus X96 runs 24 hours between the airport and Karaïskaki in Piraeus, with services every 20 minutes. Bus X97 operates between the airport and Dafni metro station (about 25 minutes), departing every 30 minutes all day. Tickets ( 3.20) are not valid for other forms of public transport. METRO The metro operates an airport service from Monastiraki, though it is not express so you can pick it up at any station along Line 3. Just check that it is the airport train (displayed on the train and platform screen). Otherwise you can take any train to the Doukissis Plakentias metro station, where you can connect to the airport train. If you have not already purchased a ticket, you can also change at Doukissis Plakentias for Nerantziotissa station and take the more comfortable and less crowded suburban rail train. Trains run every 30 minutes, leaving from Monastiraki between 5.50am and 10.50pm and from the airport between 5.30am and 11.30pm. The metro airport ticket costs adult 6 one way or 10 return (but the return is only valid for 48 hours). Note that the fare for two or more passengers works out at 5 each, so make sure you purchase tickets together (this is also the case with the suburban rail). The airport ticket is valid for all forms of public transport for 90 minutes. If you are still in transit before the 90 minutes is up, revalidate your ticket on the final mode of transport to show you are still on the same journey. SUBURBAN RAIL You can take the suburban rail from the Larisis or Doukissis Plakentias metro station and from Nerantziotissa, on the ISAP Line. Trains to the airport run from 4.30am to midnight, while trains from the airport to Athens run from 5am to 1.20am. The trip takes 38 minutes and trains run every 15 minutes from Nerantziotissa until 9.30pm, then half-hourly. The suburban rail has the same pricing as the metro but the return ticket is valid for a month. The suburban rail services also go from the airport to Piraeus (change trains at Nerantziotissa) and Kiato in the Peloponnese (via Corinth). TAXI Unfortunately, catching a taxi from the airport can often involve an argument about the fare (see p110 for the full run-down). Check that the meter is set to the correct tariff. You will also have to pay a 3.20 airport surcharge and a 2.70 toll for using the toll road, as well as 0.32 cents for each piece of luggage over 10kg. Fares ATHENS & ATTICA

80 150 RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS Getting Runningsubhead Around www. www. RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS RunningSubhead Getting Around 151 ATHENS & ATTICA vary depending on traffic, but expect to pay from 25 to 30 from the airport to the city centre, and 30 to Piraeus. Most drivers will add the tip, so check the breakdown before adding any extra. Both trips should take no longer than an hour. If you have any problems, do not hesitate to threaten to involve the police. Car & Motorcycle While the metro, the Attiki Odos and a new network of ring roads have helped ease Athens notorious traffic congestion, it can still be a nightmarish city to drive in. Heavy traffic, confusing signposting, impatient drivers and one-way streets in the city centre make driving a challenge. Drivers have a cavalier attitude towards road laws and parking restrictions. Athens kerbs and car parks are insufficient for the number of cars in the city (more than two million in Attica), prompting Athenians to develop ruthless and creative parking techniques. Contrary to what you will see, parking is actually illegal alongside kerbs marked with yellow lines, on pavements and in pedestrian malls and there are now paid parking areas, with tickets available from kiosks. For details of rental agencies in Athens, see p14803d1. Public Transport Athens has an extensive and inexpensive integrated public transport network of buses, metro, trolleybuses and a tram line. Athens Urban Transport Organisation (%185; h6.30am-11.30pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-10.30pm Sat & Sun) can assist with most inquiries. A 1 ticket can be used on the entire Athens urban transport network, including the suburban rail. It is valid for 90 minutes but excludes services to the airport. There is also a daily 3 ticket valid for 24 hours and a weekly 10 ticket with the same restrictions on airport travel. You have to be doing a fair bit of travel to make these tickets worthwhile. BUS & TROLLEYBUS The blue-and-white local express and regular buses operate every 15 minutes from 5am until midnight. Buses run 24 hours between the centre and Piraeus every 20 minutes from 6am until midnight and hourly at other times. Trolleybuses operate from 5am until midnight. A free OASA map shows most of the routes. Tickets for buses and trolleybuses ( 0.50) must be purchased at a transport kiosk or at most periptera and validated on board. Plain-clothed inspectors make spot checks. The penalty for travelling without a validated ticket is 60 times the ticket price. METRO The gradually expanding metro ( system has transformed travel around central Athens. Journeys that once took more than an hour above ground now take a matter of minutes. The stations are an attraction in their own right, displaying finds from the excavation works (p122 R0434 ). Trains and stations can be stifling in summer as limited (or no) air-conditioning was installed. All have wheelchair access. Ticket pricing still distinguishes between the metro (Lines 2 and ) and the old network (Line 1 ISAP), which is split into three sections: Piraeus Monastiraki, Monastiraki Attiki and Attiki Kifisia (one section 0.70; two or more sections 0.80). Tickets must be validated at the machines at platform entrances. The penalty for travelling without a validated ticket is 60 times the ticket price. Trains operate between 5am and just after midnight. They run every three minutes during peak periods, dropping to every 10 minutes at other times. Line 1 (Green) The old Kifisia Piraeus line has transfer stations at Omonia and Attiki for Line 2; Monastiraki is the transfer station for Line 3. Nerantziotissa connects with the suburban rail. There s also an hourly all-night bus service (bus 500) along this route, with bus stops located outside the train stations. Line 2 (Red) Line 2 runs from Agios Antonios in the northwest to Agios Dimitrios in the southeast (check the boards so you don t confuse your saints). Attiki and Omonia connect with Line 1, while Syntagma connects with Line 3. Line 3 (Blue) Line 3 runs northeast from Egaleo to Doukissis Plakentias, with the airport train con- ATHENS METRO SYSTEM S A R O N I C G U L F Line 1 ISAP Line 2 Metro Line 3 Metro Line 2 Future Extension (2008) Metro Transfer Stations Airport/Train/Tram/Ferry Connections Piraeus Anthoupoli Peristeri Agios Antonios Sepolia Larisis Metaxourghio Omonia Egaleo Eleonas Votanikos Monastiraki Thisio Petralona Tavros Kalithea Moschato Faliro Attiki tinuing from there. Syntagma is the transfer station for Line 2. SUBURBAN RAIL A fast and comfortable suburban rail (%1110; h24hr) connects Athens with the airport, Piraeus, the outer regions and the Peloponnese. It connects to the metro at Larisis and Doukissis Plakentias stations and spans from the airport to Kiato (1¾ hours, 10). The network will eventually span 281km, connecting Athens to Thiva, Lavrio, Rafina and Halkida. TRAM Athens single tram service ( makes for a scenic coastal trip to Faliro and Glyfada, but it is not the fastest means of transport. It has services running from Syntagma to Faliro, Syntagma to Glyfada and Faliro to Glyfada. The tram operates from 5am to 1am Monday to Thursday, then 24 hours from Friday night to Sunday, servicing revellers travelling to the city s beach bars. Kato Patissia Agios Nikolaos Pefkakia Perissos Ano Patissia Agios Eleftherios Iraklio Nea Ionia Irini KAT Maroussi Kifisia Nerantziotissa Halandri Ethniki Amyna Viktoria Katehaki Panepistimio Panormou Ambelokipi Megaro Mousikis Evangelismos Syntagma Akropoli Syngrou-Fix Neos Kosmos Agios Ioannis Dafni Agios Dimitrios Doukissis Plakentias Athens International Airport The trip from Syntagma to Faliro takes about 45 minutes, while Syntagma to Glyfada takes around 55 minutes. The central terminus is on Amalias, opposite the National Gardens. Tickets ( 0.60) are purchased at platform vending machines. A tram extension to Piraeus and Voula is in the pipeline. Taxi If you see an Athenian standing on the road bellowing and waving their arms, chances are they are trying to get a taxi at rush hour. Despite the large number of yellow taxis careering around the streets, it can be difficult to get one. To hail a taxi, stand on the pavement and shout your destination. If it is going your way the driver may stop even if there are already passengers inside. The fare is not shared: each person is charged the fare on the meter (note where it is at when you get in). Make sure the meter is switched on when you get in. The flag fall is 1, with a 1 surcharge from ports, train and bus stations, ATHENS & ATTICA

81 Retsina Souri G Alon Kallergi Kononos Karaiskaki Loudovikou Aristidou Akti 152 RUNNINGHEAD PIRAEUS History Runningsubhead www. www. RUNNINGHEAD RunningSubhead PIRAEUS 153 ATHENS & ATTICA and a 3.20 surcharge from the airport. After that, the day rate (tariff 1 on the meter) is 0.30 per kilometre. The night tariff (tariff 2 on the meter) increases to 0.60 per kilometre between midnight and 5am. Baggage is charged at a rate of 0.30 per item over 10kg. The minimum fare is 2.65, which covers most journeys in downtown Athens. For more information about Athens taxi drivers, see p110 R043. Booking a radio taxi costs 2.50 extra. Athina 1 (% ) Enotita (% ) Ikaros (% ) Kosmos (%18300) Parthenon (% ) PIRAEUS ΠΕΙΡΑΙΑΣ pop 175,697 Piraeus is the main port of Greece and one of the Mediterranean s major ports. The city is the hub of the Aegean ferry network, centre of Greece s maritime export-import and transit trade, and base for its large merchant navy. While Piraeus was a separate city, nowadays it virtually melds imperceptibly into the expanded sprawl of Athens. The road linking the two passes through a grey, urban sprawl of factories, warehouses and concrete apartment blocks. Piraeus can be as bustling and trafficcongested as Athens, though the proximity to the sea gives it a different feel. Central Piraeus is not a place where many visitors linger; most come only to catch a ferry. Beyond its façade of smart, new shipping offices and banks, much of Piraeus today is a hotchpotch of rejuvenated pedestrian precincts with shopping strips, restaurants and cafés and more grungy areas with run-down buildings or industrial zones. The most attractive part of Piraeus is the eastern quarter around Zea Marina, and the lovely, albeit touristy Mikrolimano harbour, where the seafront is lined with restaurants, bars and nightclubs. The charming residential neighbourhood of Kastella on the hill above Mikrolimano and the swanky seaview apartment blocks around Freatida are where the money is. Piraeus waterfront was tarted up before the Olympics, creating a tree-lined promenade along the ancient walls surrounding the harbour. HISTORY Piraeus has been the port of Athens since classical times, when Themistocles transferred his Athenian fleet from the exposed port of Phaleron (modern Faliro) to the security of Piraeus. After his victory over the Persians at the Battle of Salamis in 480 BC, Themistocles fortified Piraeus three natural harbours. In 445 BC Pericles extended these fortifying walls to Athens and Phaleron. The Long Walls, as they were known, were destroyed as one of the peace conditions imposed by the Spartans at the end of the Peloponnesian Wars, but were rebuilt in 394 BC. Piraeus was a flourishing commercial centre during the classical age, but by Roman times it had been overtaken by Rhodes, Delos and Alexandria. During medieval and Turkish times, Piraeus diminished into a tiny fishing village, and by the time Greece became independent, it was home to fewer than 20 people. Its resurgence began in 1834 when Athens became the capital of independent Greece and by the beginning of the 20th century, it had superseded the island of Syros as Greece s principal port. In 1923 its population swelled with the arrival of 100,000 Greek refugees from Turkey. The Piraeus that evolved from this influx had a seedy but somewhat romantic appeal with its bordellos, hashish dens and rembetika music all vividly portrayed in the film Never on a Sunday (1960). ORIENTATION Piraeus is 10km southwest of central Athens. The largest of its three harbours is the Great Harbour (Megas Limin), on the western side of the Piraeus peninsula, which is the departure point for all ferry, hydrofoil and catamaran services. Zea Marina (Limin Zeas) and the picturesque Mikrolimano (Small Harbour), on the eastern side, are for private yachts. The metro and train lines from Athens terminate at the northeastern corner of the Great Harbour on Akti Kalimassioti. Most ferry departure points are a short walk over the new footbridge from here. A left turn out of the metro station leads after 250m to Karaïskaki, the terminus for buses to the airport. A block to the right is the suburban rail station. INFORMATION There are lots of places to change money along the Great Harbour, as well as plenty of ATMs m miles PIRAEUS Aharnon Ikonomidou Parnasidos Souidias Dodekanisou Korydallou Fokionos Anapafseos Nikoletopoulou Mavromihali Etolikou Gravias Nirvana Thesmoforiou Almyridos Dragatsaniou Rangavi Karaoli Marathonos Mykalis Haidariou Ag Dimitriou 26 Piraeus Suburban Rail Station Akti Kondyli Ag Dionysiou Zaimi Thr Emmanouilidi Makron Tihon Mpotsari Markou Kastoros Egaleo Dervenakion Ag Dionysiou Piraeus Metro Station 21 Parko Iliou Ilia Ethnikis Antistaseos Eponiton Alipedou 28 Oktovriou 23 Karaoli N Ionias Kavvadia Pafsaniou Smolensky Sofianopoulou Zanni Ippodamias 12 Zervou Karaiskaki Stadium Skylitsi Omiridou 34Ou Sintagmatos Pylis Gounari Akti Kalimassioti Agoniston Politehniou Agiou Fanouriou Leof Irinis 19 Griva-Gardikioti Antistaseos Karaïskaki Faliro Katsoulakou Diakou Ath Voulgari Distomou Evripidou Mezonos Mikras Asias Bizaniou Androutsou Venizelou Eleftheriou Navarinou Ka nari Od Androutsou Nikita Ethnarhou Makariou Meg Alexandrou Skylitsi Lohagou Papadopoulou Sp. Tzavella Lambraki Grigoriou Evangelistrias Kolokotroni Tzelepi Notara Ethnarhou Makariou Iroon Polytehniou Faliron Coastal Zone Olympic Complex Dilou Panouria 14 Peace & Friendship Stadium Ypsilantou Praxitelous Akti Poseidonos 18 Themistokleous Delfinario Filippou Skoufa Theatrou Zeas Tsamadou Nestoros Kleanthous Deligianni Korai Leof Vasileos Georgiou Dodecanese Passenger Terminal Shistis R Fereou Deligeorgi Alkiviadou Platonos Filonos TRANSPORT Bus No 040 to Syntagma A3 Bus No 049 to Omonia C2 Bus No X96 to Airport B2 Bus Station B2 Buses 904/905 to Zea Marina B1 Catamarans & Hydrofoils to Peloponnese & Saronic Gulf B2 Catamarans to Cyclades B2 Ferries to Crete A3 Ferries to Crete A1 Ferries to Dodecanese B3 Ferries to Eastern Cyclades B1 Ferries to Northeastern Aegean B2 Ferries to Western & Central 20 Akti Dilaveri 22 Heyden Hanion Mouson Ralli L Great Harbour (Megas Limin) Kastella Terpsitheas Bouboulinas Kolokotroni Akti Miaouli Vasileos Pavlou Idis Neorion Sotiros Dios 11 ndourou Kanari 2As Merarhias Gladstonos Akti Koumou Sfakion Port Authorities Building International Ferry Terminal Saronic Gulf Mikrolimano (Small Harbour) Manousou Irakliou Minyon Metaxa Ang Zea Marina (Limani Zeas) Akti Moutsoupoulou Perikleous Skouze Leosthenous Filellinon Akti Xaveriou Sirangiou oundourou K Karatza Germanou Epidavrou Wilsonos 5 Kalliga Harilaou Trikoupi Akti Miaouli Kaningos Kantharou Efklias EATING Markets... 8 B2 Piraikon Supermarket... 9 C2 Plous Podilatou E3 Akti Koundouriotou Frangiadon Neosikon Tombazi Klisovis Alkiviadou Sahtouri Salaminomahon INFORMATION Bits & Bytes Internet... C2 Emporiki Bank... C2 National Bank of Greece... C2 Post Office... C2 Hatzikyriakou Alexandras Egeos Evergeton Pigadas (Kalavryton) Favierou Cyclades B1 Hellenic Seaways B1 International Ferries B3 Saronic Gulf Ferries B2 Tram Terminus F2 DRINKING Flying Pig Pub B3 Podaliriou Leof Freattydos Lekka Iasonos Freatidas 6 Mitroou Ionidon Kolosou ka Botsari Markou SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Archaeological Museum... B4 Hellenic Maritime Museum... C4 Vyronos Irodotou Spyridonas Trikoupi Sofokleous Klisovis Theotoki G Karpatiou 5 6 SHOPPING Flea Market C1 SLEEPING Hotel Triton... C2 7 Theohari And ATHENS & ATTICA

82 154 RUNNINGHEAD PIRAEUS Sights Runningsubhead www. www. RUNNINGHEAD ATTICA RunningSubhead Cape Sounion 155 ATHENS & ATTICA There are luggage lockers at the metro station (24 hours 3). There is free wi-fi access around the port, and at McDonald s and Starbucks. Bits & Bytes Internet (% ; Iroon Polytehniou 2, Monastiraki; per hr 2; h24hr) Emporiki Bank (cnr Antistaseos & Makras Stoas) Has a 24-hour automatic exchange machine. National Bank of Greece (cnr Antistaseos & Tsamadou) Near the Emporiki Bank. Post office (cnr Tsamadou & Filonos; h7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-2pm Sat). SIGHTS If you have time to spare, the Piraeus Archaeological museum (% ; Harilaou Trikoupi 31; adult/concession 3/2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) is a good place to spend it. It s well laid out and contains some important finds from classical and Roman times. These include some very fine tomb reliefs dating from the 4th to 2nd century BC. The star piece of the museum, however, is the magnificent statue of Apollo, the Piraeus Kouros. It is the oldest larger-than-life, hollow bronze statue yet found. It dates from about 520 BC and was discovered in Piraeus, buried in rubble, in It was temporarily closed for renovation in The Hellenic Maritime Museum (% ; Akti Themistokleous, Freatidas, Zea Marina; adult/concession 3/1.50; h9am-2pm Tue-Sat, 9.30am- 2pm Sun) brings Greece s maritime history to life, with models of ancient and modern ships, seascapes by leading Greek 19th- and 20th-century painters, guns, flags and maps as well as part of a submarine on the museum grounds. There is also a small Museum of the Electric Railway (admission free; h 9am-2pm & 5-8pm) in the metro station. SLEEPING There s no need to stay at any of the shabby cheap hotels around Great Harbour when Athens is so close (they re aimed more towards accommodating sailors than tourists). The better hotels are geared for the business market. Don t attempt to sleep out Piraeus is probably the most dangerous place in Greece to do so. You could try the budget Hotel Triton (% ; Tsamadou 8). EATING & DRINKING There are dozens of cafés, restaurants and fast-food places along the waterfront at Great Harbour but the better restaurants are in the backstreets or further afield at the Mikrolimano harbour, Marina Zea and along the waterfront promenade at Freatida. Flying Pig Pub (% ; Filonos 31; h9am- 1am) Run by a friendly Greek Australian, the Pig is a popular bar with a large range of beers. It also serves decent food, including a generous English breakfast. You can stock up on supplies before a ferry trip, in the area just inland from Akti Poseidonos. The markets (h6am-4pm Mon-Fri) are on Dimosthenous. Piraikon supermarket (% ; Ippokratous 1; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat) is opposite the markets. SHOPPING Flea Market (cnr Alipedou & Skylitsi Omiridou; h7am-2pm Sun) The Piraeus flea market rivals its famous counterpart in Athens. As well as stalls selling junk, there are small shops selling jewellery, ceramics and antiques. The market is near Ippodamias, behind the metro station. Antique hunters are better off scouring the stores in the streets around the market. GETTING THERE & AWAY Bus Bus Nos 040 and 049 operate 24 hours a day between Piraeus and central Athens; they run every 20 minutes from 6am until midnight and then hourly ( 0.50). Bus 040 runs between Akti Xaveriou in Piraeus and Filellinon in Athens. Bus 049 runs between Themistokleous in Piraeus and Omonia in Athens. The X96 Piraeus Athens Airport Express buses leave from the southwestern corner of Karaïskaki. See p146 for information on bus services to the rest of Greece. Metro & Suburban Rail The metro is the fastest and easiest way to get from Piraeus to central Athens (see p150 ). The station is at the northern end of Akti Kallimassioti. Travellers should take extra care as the section between Piraeus and Monastiraki is notorious for pickpockets. Piraeus is now connected to the suburban rail, whose terminus is opposite the metro station. To get to the airport or the Peloponnese you change trains at Nerantziotissa. GETTING AROUND Piraeus has its own network of buses but the services likely to interest travellers are buses 904 or 905 between Zea Marina and the metro station. ATTICA ΑΤΤΙΚΗ ATTICA To Lamia (150km); Larisa (260km); Thessaloniki (430km) E75 Melissohori Kapareli Porto Germeno Alepohori Veniza To Corinth (30km); Patra (170km) Lake Iliki Megara Gulf of Megara Thiva (Thebes) Neohoraki STEREA ELLADA To Halkida (4km) Greater Athens and Piraeus account for the bulk of the population of the prefecture of Attica. The plain of Attica is an agricultural and wine-growing region, with several large population centres. It has some fine beaches, particularly along the Apollo Coast and at Shinias, near Marathon. Until the 7th century, Attica was home to a number of smaller kingdoms, such as those at Eleusis (Elefsina), Ramnous and Brauron (Vravrona). The remains of these cities continue to be among the region s main attractions, although they pale alongside the superb Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion. Many of these places can be reached by regular city buses; others can be reached by KTEL services from the Mavromateon bus terminal. CAPE SOUNION ΑΚΡΩΤΗΡΙΟ ΣΟΥΝΙΟ Temple of Poseidon Nαός του Ποσειδώνα The ancient Greeks knew how to choose a site for a temple. Nowhere is this more evident than at Cape Sounion, 70km south of Athens, where the Temple of Poseidon (% ; adult/ concession 4/2; h9.30am-sunset) stands on a craggy Thrakomakedones Future SKA Rail Hub Aharnes To Western Cyclades (140km); Crete (260km) Gulf of Evia Ramnous Petalia Gulf Agioi Athens Elefsina Olympic Rafina E94 Dafni Anargyroi (Eleusis) Complex Eleftherios Peristeri Venizelos Moni Dafniou Moni International Mt Egaleo Kaisarianis Airport Koutouki Loutsa Salamina Perama (463m) Caves To the Salamina Bay ATHENS Peania Spata Cyclades Piraeus (170km) Flisvos Vorres Mt Vravrona Straits of Museum Faliro Hymettos (Brauron) Salamina Kalamaki (1026m) Koropi Porto Rafti Salamina Agios Alimo Kosmas Glyfada Limni Markopoulo Voula Vouliagmenis Kalyvia Voula Varkiza Kavouri Keratea Vouliagmeni Varkiza Vouliagmeni Aegina Town Kalithea Pyli Erythres Panakto E962 Inoi Stefani Angistri Aegina Klidi Skourta Mt Parnitha Mt Parnitha (1413m) National Park Agia Triada Fili E75 Saronic Gulf Skala Oropou E75 Kifisia Attiki Odos Kalamos Lake Marathon Marathon Tomb Mt Pendeli (1107m) Apollo Coast 0 10 km 0 6 miles Anavissos Marathon Shinias Nea Makri Lavrio Evia Agia Marina Shinias To Evia (20km) To Kea (22km); Kythnos (55km) Sounion Cape Temple of Poseidon Sounion ATHENS & ATTICA

83 156 RUNNINGHEAD ATTICA Elefsina Runningsubhead (Eleusis) www. www. RUNNINGHEAD ATTICA RunningSubhead Vravrona 157 ATHENS & ATTICA spur that plunges 65m down into the sea. Built in 444 BC at the same time as the Parthenon, it is constructed of local marble from Agrilesa and its slender columns of which 16 remain are Doric. It is thought that the temple was built by Ictinus, the architect of the Temple of Hephaestus in Athens Ancient Agora. The temple looks gleaming white when viewed from the sea and is discernible from a long distance. It gave great comfort to sailors in ancient times; they knew they were nearly home when they saw it. The views from the temple are equally impressive. On a clear day, you can see Kea, Kythnos and Serifos to the southeast, and Aegina and the Peloponnese to the west. The site also contains scanty remains of a propylon, a fortified tower, and, to the northeast, a 6th-century temple to Athena. Try to visit early in the morning before the tourist buses arrive or head there for the sunset if you wish to indulge the sentiments of Byron s lines from Don Juan: Place me on Sunium s marbled steep, Where nothing save the waves and I, May hear our mutual murmurs sweep. Byron was so taken by Sounion that he carved his name on one of the columns sadly many others have followed suit. There are a couple of tavernas just below the site if you want to combine a visit with lunch and a swim. You can take either the inland or the more scenic coastal bus to Cape Sounion from Athens. The coastal buses leave Athens hourly, on the half-hour ( 4.50, 1½ hours), from the Mavromateon bus terminal. See p147 for details. These buses also stop on Filellinon, on the corner of Xenofontos, 10 minutes later, but by this time they re usually very crowded. ELEFSINA (ELEUSIS) ΕΛΕΥΣIΝΑ The ruins of Ancient Eleusis (% ; adult/concession 3/2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) lie surrounded by oil refineries and factories beside the industrial town of Elefsina, 22km west of Athens. It s hard to imagine Eleusis in ancient times, but nestled on the slopes of a low hill close to the shore of the Saronic Gulf, ancient Eleusis was built around the Sanctuary of Demeter. The site dates back to Mycenaean times, when the cult of Demeter, one of the most important cults in ancient Greece, began. By classical times it was celebrated with a huge annual festival, which attracted thousands of pilgrims wanting to be initiated into the Eleusinian mysteries. They walked in procession from the Acropolis to Eleusis along the Sacred Way, which was lined with statues and votive monuments. Initiates were sworn to secrecy on punishment of death, and during the 1400 years that the sanctuary functioned, its secrets were never divulged. It was closed by the Roman emperor Theodosius in the 4th century AD. The site s museum helps make some sense of the scattered ruins, with models of the old city. Take bus A16 or B16 from Eleftherias (Koumoundourou), north of Monastiraki. Buses run every 20 minutes and take about 30 minutes in reasonable traffic. DAFNI ΔΑΦΝI Moni Dafniou Μονή Δαφνίου The 11th-century Dafni monastery (% ; Leoforos Athinon), 10km northwest of Athens along the busy road to Corinth, is Attica s most important Byzantine monument, and is on Unesco s World Heritage list. The monastery was badly damaged by the 1999 earthquake and it was still unclear at the time of research when it would reopen. The monastery stands on the site of an ancient Sanctuary of Apollo along the route of the Sacred Way that ran from ancient Eleusis to the Acropolis. The temple was destroyed by the Goths in AD 395, although a single Ionic column survives in the narthex of the church. The church contains some of Greece s finest mosaics. Bus A16 from Eleftherias can drop you outside the monastery. AROUND PEANIA Koutouki Cave Σπηλιά Κουτούκι Although the facilities here are run-down, this two- million-year-old cave (% ; Peania; adult/concession 5/3; h9.30am- 3.45pm Mon-Fri) is one of the finest in Greece, covering 3300 sq metres and containing stalagmites and stalactites. It is well lit and guided tours end with a quirky sound-andlight finale with classical music. The cave is best visited by car. Buses 125 and 308 from outside Ethniki Amyna metro station can take you as far as Peania; from there you can take a taxi about 4.5km to the cave. Vorres Museum Μουσείο Βορρέ This impressive private modern art and folk museum (% ; Parodos Diadohou Konstantinou 4, Peania; adult/child 5/2.50; h10am- 2pm Sat, Sun & August, by appointment Sep-Jul) is on the lovely 2.5-hectare estate that is the home of Ion Vorres. Vorres migrated to Canada as a young man but built his home here in 1963 and began collecting art (housed in a modern gallery), furniture, artefacts, textiles and historic objects from around Greece to preserve the national heritage. Take bus 308 to Koropi-Peania from Ethniki Amyna metro station. VRAVRONA ΒΡΑΥΡΩΝΑ The Sanctuary of Artemis (% ; adult/ concession 3/1.50; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) was a revered site for worshippers of the goddess of the hunt, protector of women in childbirth and newborns. The temple is one of several monuments from this Neolithic settlement. The museum (temporarily closed at the time of research) houses exceptional finds from the sanctuary and excavations in the area. Take the metro to Ethniki Amyna, then bus 304 to Loutsa. It s a 10-minute taxi ride from there, with a nice stretch of beach on the way. MARATHON & AROUND Marathon Μαραθώνας The plain surrounding the unremarkable small town of Marathon, 42km northeast of Athens, is the site of one of the most celebrated battles in world history. In 490 BC an army of 9000 Greeks and 1000 Plataeans defeated the 25,000-strong Persian army, proving that the Persians were not invincible. The Greeks were indebted to the ingenious tactics of Miltiades, who altered the conventional battle formation so that there were fewer soldiers in the centre, but more in the wings. This lulled the Persians into thinking that the Greeks were going to be a pushover. They broke through in the centre but were then ambushed by the soldiers in the wings. At the end of the day, 6000 Persians and only 192 Greeks lay dead. The story goes that after the battle a runner was sent to Athens to announce the victory. After shouting Enikesame! ( We won! ) he collapsed in a heap and never revived. This is the origin of today s marathon race. Four kilometres before the town of Marathon is the 10m-high tumulose or burial mound that is the Marathon tomb (% ; 350m from Athens-Marathon rd; site & museum 3; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun Jun-Oct). In ancient Greece, the bodies of those who died in battle were returned to their families for private burial, but as a sign of honour the 192 men who fell at Marathon were cremated and buried in this collective tomb. The site has a model of the battle and historical information. Nearer to the town is the excellent Marathon museum (% ; admission incl site 3), which has local discoveries from various periods, including neolithic pottery from the Cave of Pan and finds from the tomb of the Athenians. New finds from the area include several well-preserved larger-than-life statues from an Egyptian sanctuary. Next to the museum is one of the area s prehistoric grave circle sites, which has been preserved under a hangar-like shelter, with raised platforms and walkways over the site. There is another hangar containing an early Helladic cemetery site on the way to the museum. About 8km west of Marathon is Lake Marathon, a massive dam that was Athens sole source of water until The dam wall, completed in 1926, is faced with the famous Pentelic marble that was used to build the Parthenon. It s an awesome sight, standing over 50m high and stretching for more than 300m. Hourly (half-hourly in the afternoon) buses depart from Athens Mavromateon terminal to Marathon ( 2.90, 1¼ hours). The tomb and the museum are within a short walking distance of bus stops (tell the driver where you want to get off). There are no bus services to Lake Marathon. Ramnous Ραμνούς The ruins of the Ramnous ancient port (% ; admission 2; h8am-5.30pm) are about 10km northeast of Marathon. It s an evocative, overgrown and secluded site, standing on a picturesque plateau overlooking the sea. Among the ruins are the remains of the Doric Temple of Nemesis (435 BC), which once contained a huge statue of the goddess. Nemesis was the goddess of retribution and mother of Helen of Troy. There are also ruins of a smaller 6thcentury temple dedicated to Themis, goddess of justice. Another section of the site was recently opened to the public, leading 1km down a picturesque track to the relatively well-preserved ATHENS & ATTICA

84 Lonely Planet Publications 158 RUNNINGHEAD ATTICA Mt Parnitha Runningsubhead www. ATHENS & ATTICA fortress on the cliff top near the sea, with the remains of the city, a temple, gymnasium and theatre. The site is well off the beaten track and consequently one of the least spoilt. You need your own transport to get there. Shinias Σχοινιάς The long, sandy, pine-fringed beach at Shinias, southeast of Marathon, is the best in this part of Attica and also very popular, particularly at weekends. Shinias was the controversial location chosen for the rowing competition in the 2004 Olympic Games, despite concerns about its susceptibility to strong winds and its proximity to significant wetlands. Camping Ramnous (% ; /camping-ramnous-athens; Leoforos Poseidonos 174; camp sites per adult/tent 6.50/7) on the way to the beach has a children s playground and waterslide. The bus to Marathon stops at the entrance to the camp site and within walking distance of Shinias beach. MT PARNITHA ΠΑΡΝΗΘΑ Mt Parnitha National Park, just 20km north of the city centre, is a popular weekend escape for Athenians, though, tragically, thousands of hectares of century-old fir forest were razed during the 2007 fires. It will take decades to recover from what experts are calling an environmental disaster. Mt Parnitha comprises a number of smaller peaks, the highest of which is Karavola at 1413m high enough to get snow in winter. The park is crisscrossed by numerous walking trails, marked on the Road Editions trekking map of the area. Most visitors access the park by cable car from the outer Athens suburb of Thrakomakedones. The cable car drops you below Casino Mt Parnes (% ; -parnes.gr; h24hr), a gaming and hotel complex. The casino runs a free bus service from various locations in Athens, including outside the Hilton. You can get to the cable car station on bus 714 from the south end of Aharnon, near Omonias. Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content.

85 P e l o p o n n e s e Πελοπόννησος Lonely Planet Publications 159 The Peloponnese (pel-o-pon-ih-sos) is the stuff that legends are made of. Numerous myths were born and borne out here it is where many a Greek god or hero strutted their stuff (and aired their bodies). Today this region is far from a fable. It boasts historical sites, with classical temples, Mycenaean palaces, Byzantine cities, and Frankish and Venetian fortresses. You can rub shoulders with the ghost of Agamemnon at Mycenae, mighty redoubt of a once great civilisation, or flex your muscles at ancient Olympia, spiritual home of the Olympics. You can cite Oedipus in the Theatre of Epidavros or be entranced by Mystras, where the Byzantine civilisation died in the 14th century. Greece s first capital, Nafplio, is today a cosmopolitan and romantic city; captivating, too, is the Venetian stronghold of Monemvasia. PELOPONNESE The region s natural playground truly mesmerises, with lofty, snowcapped mountains, lush gorges, valleys of citrus groves and vineyards, cypress trees, streams and sun-specked beaches. Spring is the perfect time for DIY explorations. Hike in the wildflower-covered mountains of Arkadia, or in the rugged Mani, which bristle with fortified tower houses. Summer is a beach bum s delight: the beaches of Messinia are among Greece s finest. Winter brings snow to the higher ground and a chance to launch yourself down Mt Helmos on skis. For centuries Greeks have fought hard against invaders of their Peloponnese paradise; today foreigners are far from repelled (ask the permanent influx of Brits). Filoxenia (hospitality) is as strong here as anywhere in the country. The locals claim to have the best of everything to give. And that s no myth. HIGHLIGHTS Historical Havens Meandering through the stunning streets of Nafplio ( p180 ) and Monemvasia ( p200 ) Ancient Wonders Marvelling at the sanctuary of Ancient Olympia ( p220 ) birthplace of the Olympic Games Wild Wanderings Walking in the remote and rugged Mani ( p204 ) Mountain Hideaways Discovering secrets in the charming mountain-top villages of Dimitsana ( p191 ), Stemnitsa ( p191 ), Karitena ( p190 ) and Andritsena ( p223 ) Ancient Olympia Dimitsana Andritsena Magic Moments Wandering through the magical Mystras ( p197 ), a World Heritage listed site Real Mythical Moments Exploring the citadels of Mycenae ( p177 ), Tiryns ( p185 ) and the theatre of Epidavros ( p186 ) Nafplio Stemnitsa Karitena Mycenae Mystras Mani Tiryns Epidavros Monemvasia POPULATION: 1 MILLION AREA : 21,439 SQ KM

86 160 ACHAÏA Patra ACHAÏA Patra 161 PELOPONNESE History Since ancient times the Peloponnese has played a major role in Greek history. When the Minoan civilisation declined after 1450 BC, the focus of power in the ancient Aegean world moved from Crete to the hill-fortress palaces of Mycenae and Tiryns in the Peloponnese. As elsewhere in Greece, the 400 years following the Dorian conquests in the 12th century BC are known as the dark age. When the region emerged from darkness in the 7th century BC, Athens arch rival, Sparta, had surpassed Mycenae as the most powerful city in the Peloponnese. The period of peace and prosperity under Roman rule (146 BC to around AD 250) was shattered by a series of invasions by Goths, Avars and Slavs. The Byzantines were slow to make inroads into the Peloponnese, only becoming firmly established during the 9th century. In 1204, after the fall of Constantinople to the crusaders, the Frankish crusader chiefs William de Champlitte and Geoffrey de Villehardouin divided the region into 12 fiefs, which they parcelled out to various barons of France, Flanders and Burgundy. These fiefs were overseen by de Villehardouin, the self-appointed Prince of Morea, as the region was called in medieval times, perhaps because mulberry trees grow so well in the area (mouria means mulberry tree). The Byzantines gradually won back the Morea and, although the empire as a whole was now in terminal decline, a glorious renaissance took place in the area, centred on Mystras (see p197 ), which became the region s seat of government. The Morea fell to the Turks in 1460 and hundreds of years of power struggles between the Turks and Venetians followed. The Venetians had long coveted the Morea and succeeded in establishing profitable trading ports at Methoni, Pylos, Koroni and Monemvasia. The Greek War of Independence supposedly began in the Peloponnese, when Bishop Germanos of Patra raised the flag of revolt near Kalavryta on 25 March The Egyptian army, under the leadership of Ibrahim Pasha, brutally restored Turkish rule in In 1827 the Triple Alliance of Great Britain, France and Russia, moved by Greek suffering and the activities of philhellenes (Byron s death in 1824 was particularly influential), came to the rescue of the Greeks by destroying the Egyptian-Turkish fleet at the Battle of Navarino, ending Turkish domination of the area. The Peloponnese became part of the independent state of Greece, and Nafplio in Argolis became the first national capital. Kapodistrias, Greece s first president, was assassinated on the steps of Nafplio s Church of St Spyridon in October 1831, and the new king, Otho, moved the capital to Athens in Like the rest of Greece, the Peloponnese suffered badly during WWII; part of this history is vividly and tragically illustrated in the mountain town of Kalavryta, where all males aged over 15 were massacred (see p168 ). The civil war ( ) brought widespread destruction and, in the 1950s, many villagers migrated to Athens, Australia, Canada, South Africa and the USA. ACHAÏA ΑΧΑΪΑ Overseas visitors are slowly discovering the delights of Achaïa. The spectacular region hides a string of coastal resorts, some high and ski-able mountain country (reached via a fantastic rack-and-pinion railway, when functioning) and a burgeoning capital: the bustling and surprisingly cosmopolitan city of Patra. Achaïa owes its name to the Achaeans, an Indo-European branch of migrants who settled on mainland Greece and established what is more commonly known as the Mycenaean civilisation. When the Dorians arrived, the Achaeans were pushed into this northwestern corner of the Peloponnese, displacing the original Ionians. Legend has it that the Achaeans founded 12 cities, which later developed into the powerful Achaean Federation that survived until Roman times. Principal among these cities were the ports of Patra and Egio. PATRA ΠAΤΡΑ pop 167,600 The largest city in the Peloponnese and Achaïa s capital, Patra is named after King Patreas, who ruled Achaïa around 1100 BC. Despite an eventful 3000 years of history, Patra is not considered the most compelling destination in the Peloponnese; most travellers pass straight through, boarding or disembarking from boats that sail between here, Italy and the Ionian Islands. Yet those who do stay a night or two will find a cosmopolitan city with a vibrant café and clubbing scene (helped by the presence of Patra s 40,000 university students), plus a busy arts and culture community. Patra is not beautiful the cityscape is dominated by bland 1950s concrete tenements that squat between the few surviving 19th-century neoclassical buildings but behind the scruffy port, Patra scrubs up better these days. The city has attractive plazas and architectural landmarks, such as the Apollon Theatre and, nearby, the impressive, shiny Rio Andirio suspension bridge, linking the city with western continental Greece. Orientation Rebuilt with wide, arcaded streets and large squares after its destruction by the Turks during the War of Independence, Patra has a simple modern grid system. The waterfront is known as Iroön Polytehniou at the north end, Othonos Amalias in the middle and Akti Dimeon to the south. Customs is at the Iroön Polytehniou end and the main bus and train stations are on Othonos Amalias. Most of the agencies selling ferry tickets are on Iroön Polytehniou and Othonos Amalias. The main roads run parallel to the waterfront. The main pedestrian thoroughfare is Agiou Nikolaou and the principle square is Georgiou. Information BOOKSHOPS Newstand (% ; Agiou Andreou 77) A small selection of novels, as well as international newspapers and magazines. EMERGENCY First Aid Centre (% ; cnr Karolou & Agiou Dionysiou;h8am-8pm) Port Police (% ; Iroön Polytehniou; h24hr) At the end of the waterfront. Tourist police (% ; 4th fl, Gounari 52 & Ypsilandou;h7am-9pm) INTERNET ACCESS You can internet hop around Gerokostopoulou and Karaïskaki. Netp@rk (Gerokostopoulou 36a; per hr 2; h24hr) Netrino Internet Cafe (Karaïskaki 133; per hr 3; h24hr) INTERNET RESOURCES An excellent website for information on the city. LAUNDRY Skafi Laundrette (% ; Zaïmi 49; per load 7.50; h9am-2.30pm Mon-Sat, pm Tue, Thu & Fri) Will wash and dry a load. LEFT LUGGAGE Train Station (h6am-2am) Charges 3.20 per item per day, or 1.60 per item if you have a train ticket, so buy your ticket before you drop off your bags. (Note: if you have Interail and/or Eurail card, storage is free.) MONEY National Bank of Greece ( Trion Symahon; h8am-2.30pm Mon-Thu, 8am-2pm Fri) Opposite the train station. POST Post office (cnr Zaïmi & Mezonos; h7.30am-8pm Mon- Fri, 7.30am-2pm Sat & Sun) TOURIST INFORMATION Info Center (% /1; Othonos Amalias 6; h8am-10pm) This is the bestorganised information office in Greece, run by the city of Patra (rather than the EOT; Greek National Tourist Organisation). It s stocked with maps and brochures on local GAUGING THE RAILWAY: TRAIN LINES IN THE PELOPONNESE At the time of research the train lines in the Peloponnese were being upgraded from a narrow to standard gauge. Normally, there are two main routes: Athens to Kalamata (via the centre Corinth and Tripoli, with another line from Argos to Nafplio) and Athens to Kalamata (via the west coast Patra and Pyrgos, with another line from Patra to Olympia). At the time of publication services to Corinth and Tripoli (and Argos and Nafplio) were suspended; these lines were still being worked on. In many cases bus replacement services were operating, but we suggest that it is more convenient to use the KTEL buses in these instances. Meanwhile, a new train, the proastiako, was operating between Corinth and Athens (and Athens airport). It will eventually link Athens to Xylokastro in the Peloponnese. PELOPONNESE

87 162 ACHAÏA Peloponnese Book accommodation online at ACHAÏA Patra 163 PELOPONNESE PELOPONNESE To Corfu (220km); Italy (310km) Messolongi Cape Araxos To Agrinio (20km); Ioannina (180km) E55 Gulf of Patra Marathopoli Paralia Rio Exo Agia Patra Mavromati Filiatra Ancient Gargaliani Messini 9 STEREA ELLADA Nafpaktos Agios Andirio Nikolaos Kamares Egio Koutala To Lamia (50km) E65 Diakofto Trypi MESSINIA Airport Hora Messini Mystras Nestor's Palace Kalamata MESSINIAN Anavryti Petalidi MANI Gialova 82 Petalidi Bay Avia Mt Likodimo Kalamaki Kitries Exohori Pylos (960m) Kardamyli Stoupa Nea Koroni Methoni Agios Nikolaos Sapientza Town Gulf of Corinth Mt Panahaïko (1924m) Derveni Lake Akrata Kamari Vouliagmeni Alissos ACHAÏA E65 Zahlorou Xylokastro Ancient Nea Manolada Kalavryta Zemeno Heraion To Zakynthos (20km); E55 Kefallonia (40km) Zarouhia Kiato Lake Vasiliko Corinth Kotichi 33 Steno Kyllini Mt Helmos Ancient Sikyon Canal Lake Mt Lambia Kesari Andravida Cave of (2340m) Corinth Pinios (2221m) Mt Killini the Lakes Planitero Stymfalia Stimaga Ancient Elis (2376m) Tripotama Klitoria Corinth Kentro Stymfalia Koutsi Efira Lambia CORINTHIA Hlemoutsi Gastouni Acrocorinth Castle Mt Aphrodisio 33 Lake Nemea Amaliada (1445m) Stymfalia Cape Ancient Ancient Nemea Tripiti Kleonai Kouroutas ELIA Lake Dervenakia Vlacherna Mt Pharmakas Ladonas Fihtio Ancient (1615m) Mycenae Korakohori Pyrgos Langadia Mycenae Miraka Vassilaki Dafni Vitina Neo Ireo Mt Menalo E65 Katakolo Olympia Karia Karkalou (1980m) Argos Tiryns Agia Ancient Triada Olympia Dimitsana Kefalari Krestena ARKADIA Neo Nafplio Kallithea Ancient Stemnitsa Mt Artemisio Kios Ancient Gortys Tripoli (1771m) Elliniko Myli Asini Kiveri Tolo I O N I A N Zacharo Andritsena Karitena Nea Asini E55 S E A Kakovatos Figalia Temple Mt Lykeio of Vasses (1420m) Ancient Eleohori E55 7 Tegea Paralia Tholos Ancient Astros Astros Megalopoli Gulf of Platania Figalia Ancient Kyparissia Lykosoura Agios Agios Karies Petros Andreas Kalo Nero Kopanaki Kyparissia 9A E m E961 Paralia Meligalas Tyrou Proti Sapientza Islet 7 Sparta Goritsa Mt Profitis Ilias (2407m) Dafni Krokees Finikounda Koroni Platsa Langada Gythio Agios Nikon Mavrovouni Cape Akritas Messinian Itilo Nea Itilo 39 Schiza Venetiko Gulf Limeni Skoutari Finikounda Diros Caves Areopoli Bay Pyrgos Dirou Kotronas LAKONIAN MANI Nyfi Alipa Maina Nyfi Kita Kokala Ano & Kato Boulari Agia Kyprianos Gerolimenas Lagia Alika Vathia Porto Kagio Cape Tenaro To Crete (140km) Vouraïkos Gorge Langada Pass Artemisia T a ÿ e g t o s M o u n t a i n s 39 P Sithas a r n o n a s Tanos M Mt Parnon (1839m) o u Evrotas 86 n t a i n s LAKONIA Skala Plaka Poulithra Kosmas Geraki Apidia Leonidio Molai Elea Plitra Lakonian Gulf To Crete (105km) Alkyonides Gulf Alepohori Perahora Loutraki E94 Salamina Isthmia Gulf of Isthmia Megara Kechries Bay Kechries Athikia Hiliomodi Sofiko Dimena Mt Arahneo (1197m) Ligourio Paralia Sikia Kyparissi Gerakas Gefyra Agia Pelagia Hora Viglafia Elafonisi Town Elafonisi Korfos Kythira Strait Kapsali Thiva (Thebes) Epidavros Spetses Town Monemvasia Neapoli Diakofti Velanidia ATTICA Megara Nea Angistri Epidavros Nea Epidavros Bay ARGOLIS Adami Driopi Trahia Kandia Karnezeika Ancient Gulf Argolis Troizen of Peninsula Mt Didymo Tolo Iria Psili Frachti (1121m) Kilada Cave Ermioni Argolic Gulf Kranidi Porto Heli Dokos Kosta 86 Kythira (p225) Spetses 0 0 Spetsopoula E972 Hydra Gulf Kranidi Bay M Y R T O Ö N S E A Elefsina (Eleusis) Salamina Saronic Gulf Aegina Town Aegina ATHENS Piraeus Kypseli Methana Poros Poros Town A E G E A N Trizina Galatas S E A Hydra Town Cape Maleas Cape Spathi Hydra To Crete (80km) 30 km 20 miles E75 points of interest plus information on everything, including transport and hotels. The delightful English-speaking staff is eager to please. There s even free 20-minute internet access and free bike rental. Sights & Activities KASTRO The city s wonderful old Kastro (fortress; admission free; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) stands on the site of the acropolis of ancient Patrai. The Romans were the first to build a fort here around AD 550, but the present structure is of Frankish origin, remodelled many times over the centuries by the Byzantines, Venetians and Turks. It was in use as a defensive position until WWII. Set in an attractive pencil-pined park, it is reached by climbing the 190-plus steps at the end of Agiou Nikolaou. Great views of the Ionian Islands of Zakynthos and Kefallonia are the reward. Festivals & Events The city s commitment to cultural events is strong; in 2006 Patra was the European Capital of Culture and hosted an extensive range of cultural activities encompassing theatre, dance, music, art and other events. Patra s citizens party hard during the annual Patra Carnival. The programme begins in mid-january, and features a host of minor events leading up to a wild weekend of costume parades, colourful floats and celebrations in late February or early March. The event draws big crowds, so hotel reservations are essential if you want to stay overnight. For more details, check Sleeping A shortage of decent cheap accommodation in Patra is one of the reasons few travellers stick around town (there is a run-down YHA youth hostel, but it s not recommended). Stretching yourself to a slightly higher budget pays dividends with a few plush choices. BUDGET Spyros Rooms (% ; Tofalou 2; s/d 30/40; a) At the western end of the port and handy to the ferries are these clean and basic rooms with TV. MIDRANGE Hotel Mediterraneé (% ; mediterran@otenet.gr; Agiou Nikolaou 18; s/d 50/70) This place looks like PELOPONNESE

88 164 ACHAÏA Patra Book accommodation online at ACHAÏA Patra 165 PELOPONNESE it s seen a little too much of Patra s nightlife itself despite the plush lobby, the rooms are on the verge of being a little worn and the bathrooms are in a cupboard. But it s pleasant and good value nonetheless and very central. Breakfast costs 5. Olympic Star Hotel (% ; star.gr; Agiou Nikolaou 46; s/d incl breakfast 60/90; ai) A shining star indeed; Patra needed a place like this. The hotel has had a funky new overhaul and its contemporary rooms feature hydro showers and internet access. Reduced prices without breakfast. TOP END Hotel Byzantino (% ; -hotel.gr; Riga Fereou 106; s/d/junior ste incl breakfast To Ichthyóskala (50m); Kyllini (85km); Pyrgos (103km) Atki Dimeon PATRA INFORMATION Customs... 1 C1 First Aid Centre... 2 C2 Info Center... 3 C2 National Bank of Greece... 4 C3 Netp@rk... 5 C4 Netrino Internet Café... 6 C4 Newsstand... 7 B3 Port Police... 8 C1 Post Office... 9 C3 Skafi Laundrette D3 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Kastro D4 SLEEPING Hotel Byzantino B3 Hotel Mediterraneé C3 Olympic Star Hotel C3 Primarolia Art Hotel C2 Spyros Rooms C1 EATING Dia Discount Supermarket C3 Europa Centre C2 TRANSPORT ANEK Lines C2 Aqua Shipping C1 Avis C2 Blue Star Ferries C2 Europcar C2 Ferries to Ionian Islands C2 Hertz C2 KTEL Achaia Bus Station C2 KTEL Kefallonia Bus Station B3 KTEL Zakynthos Bus Station B3 Superfast Ferries C2 Bouboulinas Othonos Amalias To Mythos (100m) Kanari Trion Symahon Gulf of Patra To Kefallonia (75km); Ithaki (90km); Corfu (200km) Gounari Othonos Amalias Agiou Andreou Filopimenos Patreos Mezonos Train Station /125/145; ain) The Byzantino shows up the town s standard concrete monoliths. This graceful and restored neoclassical building features good rooms with large iron bedsteads, wooden floors and period furniture. Satellite TV and other trimmings make it popular among local businesspeople, so book ahead. Primarolia Art Hotel (% ; hotel.gr; Othonos Amalias 33; s 99, d , incl breakfast; ai) Follow your mood: you can flutter in the butterfly room, veg out in the mushroom room or dream of travel in the map room. This stylish place oozes individuality, with sleeping spaces ranging from the bold, contemporary and minimalist to the florid, romantic and baroque. All have TV with international Apollon Theatre Georgiou Korinthou Ermou To Tourist Police Agiou Nikolaou Riga Fereou (Michalakopoulou) Votsi Pantanasis Kanakari Radinou 14 Gerokostopoulou Santaroza Olgas Agios Georgiou Iroön Polytehniou Agiou Dionysiou Aratou Kolokotroni Athinon 2 Tofalou 9 Agios Nikolaos Church 6 Kapodistrio 25 Martiou Ancient Odeion Sarantaporou Astigos m miles Agios Dionysios Church Karolou (28 Oktovriou) 21 Satovriandou Zaïmi Norman Sotiriadou Faverou 10 Karaïskaki Pantokratoros Mourouzi Ypsilandou Ioanninon Mezonos Frouriou Kosti Palama Korinthou Makedonias To Kalavryta (65km); Delphi (90km); Corinth (140km); Tripoli (175km); Athens (220km); Kalamata (220km) Kanakari 11 Ekaterinis Papadiamantopoulou Konstantinopoleos BUSHFIRES In August and September 2007, severe bushfires raged through parts of the Peloponnese, tragically killing over 60 people, destroying vast areas of olive groves and forest, and burning several villages. The main regions affected were Arkadia, Lakonia, the Mani and Elia. At the time of writing, the cause of the disaster was still unclear; the most conspiratorial theory points to arson by property developers intent on clearing land for development. Other theories attribute the blaze to shepherds, who regularly use fire to expand grazing areas, or to cigarette butts, a common hazard. Determined locals declared that it would be business as usual in no time. But some sites (particularly restaurants), such as those around Floka (near Olympia), may have been affected by the fires; check their status before making a trip. Visiting the region, however, is the best way to support the locals who ve been affected by this tragedy. channels, fax, minibar and safe. Prices vary according to the view (city or harbour). Eating To do frappé (iced coffee) with the best of em, head along Agiou Nikolaou. For good eating options head east to Trion Navarhon. Europa Centre (% ; Othonos Amalias 10; mains 4-8; h7am-midnight) This convenient, cafeteria-style place is close to the international ferry dock and a good place to hang out en route. The helpful staff serves standard but filling fare. There s free (short-term) luggage storage, TV, internet and pinball machines. Mythos (% ; cnr Trion Navarhon & Riga Fereou; mains 7-12; hdinner) Even the waiter tells you this romantic place has a woman s touch: flowers, petunias and shrubs create a beautiful oasis outside, Mediterranean antiques, lamps and other surprises adorn the inside (thanks to the female owner-decorator). And that s before you ve even reached her essence try the mythos pie (containing chicken, feta and fresh vegetables; 7.50) and chocolate soufflé ( 4). Ichthyóskala (% ; fish per kg 40-50) This unpretentious place offers few trimmings, save for a lemon wedge or two. But that s all you need to enhance fresh fish eaten alfresco. It s about 1km from central Patra. For self-caterers, Dia Discount supermarket (Agiou Andreou 29) is ideally located for travellers planning to buy provisions and keep moving. Drinking It may be a scruffy, traffic-snarled port by day, but around sunset Patra transforms into a cosmopolitan, sharp-dressing, buzzy, cafélined city. Sit, see and be seen at any one of the dozens of places along Agiou Nikolaou, the wide pedestrianised street leading to the port. Radinou is a short, lively, narrow alley packed with bars that open late into the night (some with DJs) and quickly fill with the younger student crowd. Getting There & Away Many first-time visitors to Greece assume the best way to get from Patra to Athens is by bus. The bus is faster than the train, but it s more expensive and drops you off a long way from the centre of Athens at Terminal A on Kifissou. This is a real hassle if you re arriving in Athens after midnight, when there are no connecting buses to the city centre, leaving newcomers at the mercy of the notorious Terminal A taxi drivers. The train takes you close to the city centre, with easy connections to the metro system. If you arrive after midnight, you re within easy walking distance of good accommodation. BUS The main KTEL Achaia bus station (% ; Othonos Amalias) has buses to Athens ( 16.20, three hours, every half-hour) via Corinth ( 10.80, 1½ hours); Pyrgos ( 8.40, two hours, 10 daily); Ioannina ( 19.70, 4½ hours, at least two daily); Kalavryta ( 6.80, two hours, at least two daily); Kalamata ( 19.30, four hours, two daily); Tripoli ( 16, 3½ hours, daily) and Thessaloniki ( 37.90, seven hours, four daily). Buses to the Ionian Islands of Lefkada ( 13.80, two weekly, three hours) and Kefallonia leave from the KTEL Kefallonia bus station (% ; cnr Othonos Amalias & Gerokostopoulou). Services to Kefallonia travel by ferry to Poros ( 14.40, three hours) and continue by road to Argostoli ( 18, one hour). Also PELOPONNESE

89 166 ACHAÏA Diakofto Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at ACHAÏA Zahlorou 167 PELOPONNESE departing from here are buses (% ) to Amfissa (for Delphi; 11.60, two daily Monday to Saturday, one on Sunday, three hours). Several daily buses to Zakynthos (including ferry; 30, 3½ hours, two on weekends) leave from the KTEL Zakynthos bus station (% ; Othonos Amalias 48). Conveniently, they also travel via the port of Kyllini ( 6.50, 1¼ hours). Note: the schedules change regularly. FERRY Domestic Daily ferries to Kefallonia ( 14.50, 2½ hours) and Ithaki ( 14.50, 3¾ hours) are operated by Strintzis Ferries (% ). The ticket office is just inside the port, at Gate 2 behind the train station. Fares to Corfu (six to 7½ hours) cost 33 with ANEK Lines (% ; Othonos Amalias 25) and Minoan Lines (% ; Iroön Polytehniou 5), which is just opposite the port s Gate 7. International Patra is Greece s main port for ferry services to Italy. All departures to Italy leave at midnight. (Be sure to check as this schedule changes.) A highly recommended Englishspeaking one-stop company is Aqua Shipping (% ; Athinon 2-4). It s an agent for Hellenic Seaways but sells tickets for all lines (note: as will most agencies.) The route to Brindisi ( 52, 15 hours, daily) is operated by Endeavour Lines (Hellenic Mediterranean Lines). Ancona is another popular destination; Superfast Ferries (% ; Othonos Amalias 12) does the trip direct in 19 hours for 74, or 21 hours via Igoumenitsa. Minoan Lines (% ; Iroön Polytehniou 5) runs two services to Ancona ( 74, 21½ hours), one via Igoumenitsa. ANEK Lines (% ; Othonos Amalias 25) also has regular services to Ancona ( 70, 20 hours). Superfast (% ; Othonos Amalias 12) in conjunction with Blue Star Ferries and Agoudimos has daily services to Bari (around 57, 15½ hours). Minoan Lines also has boats to Venice ( 79, 29 hours, four times weekly), calling at Corfu and Igoumenitsa. ANEK Lines has boats to Venice ( 53, 34½ hours) daily except Tuesday, also calling at Corfu and Igoumenitsa. Most of these ferries stop at Igoumenitsa and Corfu. Note: under no circumstances are you permitted a free stopover on Corfu. TRAIN There are at least seven trains daily from Patra to Corinth; five are normal trains ( 3.20, 2½ hours) and two are Intercity (express) services ( 6.40, 2½ hours). All trains between Patra and Corinth stop at Diakofto (Intercity 5, 45 minutes; normal trains 2.80, one hour). There are also several daily services to Pyrgos (express/normal 5.40/2.80, 1½ to three hours). For Olympia, change trains at Pyrgos. There are regular daily services to Kyparissia (express/normal 7.50/4.70, three hours) and Kalamata (express/normal 9.70/5, five hours). Getting Around Local buses leave from Georgiou. Recommended car-rental outlets: Avis (% ; 28 Oktovriou 16) Europcar (% ; Agiou Andreou 6) Hertz (% ; Karolou 2) DIAKOFTO ΔΙΑΚΟΦΤΟ pop 2290 Diakofto (dih-ah-kof-to), 55km east of Patra and 80km northwest of Corinth, is a serene village, tucked between steep mountains and the sea, amid lemon and olive groves. Until recently the main reason for visiting was to board the unique rack-and-pinion train service up the Vouraïkos Gorge as far as Kalavryta. This service is currently suspended (see boxed text, opposite ) but if you must stay along the coast for a night, this is a tranquil spot to do so. There is a small beach on the western side of town. Orientation & Information Diakofto s layout is simple. The train station is in the middle of the village. To reach the waterfront and beach, cross the railway track and walk down the road for 1km. There is no EOT (Greek National Tourist Organisation) or tourist police. The National Bank of Greece and the post office (h7.30am- 2pm Mon-Fri) are on the main street that leads inland from the station. Sleeping Hotel Lemonies (% /820; fax ; s/d 30/40; pa) The best option in Diakofto, with kind owners and basic but spacious and comfortable rooms with fridge and TV. It s 500m north of the train station on the road leading to the beach. Breakfast is 5. Hotel Chris-Paul (% /855; paul-hotel.gr; s/d/tr 35/65/78; pas) A modernish and slightly impersonal hotel near the train station, with a bar and restaurant. Most rooms have balconies overlooking the garden. Breakfast is 5. Eating Costas (% ; mains 5-8; hlunch & dinner) This popular taverna/psistaria (restaurant serving grilled food), up from the National Bank and on the right of the main street, is a good eating choice. The friendly Greek-Australian owners offer taverna-style dishes alongside the usual grilled meats. They are known for their dolmadhes (vine leaves stuffed with rice and sometimes meat; 6.50). Opposite the train station, Elvar Supermarket (% ) is one of a few shops that provides walkers with picnic supplies. Getting There & Away BUS There s not much point in catching a bus to/ from Diakofto the trains are much more convenient. Patra Athens buses bypass the village on New National Rd. TRAIN Diakofto is on the main Corinth Patra line; there are frequent trains in both directions (express/normal 6.40/3.20). The Diakofto Kalavryta Railway (% ) is currently suspended due to ongoing track work (see boxed text, below ). ZAHLOROU ΖΑΧΛΩΡΟΥ pop 50 The picturesque and unspoilt settlement of Zahlorou, the halfway stop on the Diakofto Kalavryta train line, straddles both sides of the river and the railway line. Many people take the train to this point and walk back to Diakofto. Sights MONI MEGALOU SPILEOU ΜΟΝΗ ΜΕΓΑΛΟΥ ΣΠΗΛΑΙΟΥ A steep path leads up from Zahlorou to the Moni Megalou Spileou (Monastery of the Great Cavern; admission free). The original monastery was destroyed in 1934 when gunpowder stored during the War of Independence exploded. The new monastery houses illuminated gospels and relics, and the miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary, which, like numerous icons in Greece, is said to have been painted by St Luke. It was supposedly discovered in the nearby cavern by St Theodore and St Simeon in 362. The 3km walk takes about an hour. Sleeping & Eating Taverna Oneira (% ; apt 60-80, villa ) For a more upmarket line, and on the hill behind the platform, try this taverna, which has eight plush new villas aside its taverna and older apartments nearby. The two budget sleeping options, Hotel Romantzo (% ; s/d/tr 25/30/40) and Zachlorou (% ; s/d/tr 25/30/40), are right on the platform, but you won t be chuffed by their standards sooty at best. However, the 3rd-class room prices are attractive. Getting There & Away When running, the Diakofto Kalavryta trains stop at Zahlorou. You can drive to Zahlorou on a dirt road leading off the Diakofto Kalavryta road. The turn-off is 7.5km north of Kalavryta. DIAKOFTO KALAVRYTA RAILWAY When operating, the unique train running along the railway from Diakofto to Kalavryta is an unmissable journey. It was closed at the time of research; check on its status. This unforgettable ride heads through the dramatic Vouraïkos Gorge. It climbs over 700m in 22.5km, using a rack-and-pinion (cog) system for traction on the steep sections, effectively clamping itself to a notched girder. Built by an Italian company between 1885 and 1895, the railway was a remarkable feat of engineering for its time. The line switches back and forth across the gorge and eventually disappears into a long curving tunnel. It emerges clinging to a narrow ledge by the river. South of the charming village of Zahlorou, the line follows the river beneath a leafy canopy of plane trees, before meandering through open country for the final run to Kalavryta. PELOPONNESE

90 168 ACHAÏA Kalavryta Book accommodation online at ACHAÏA Around Kalavryta 169 PELOPONNESE KALAVRYTA ΚΑΛAΒΡΥΤΑ pop 1747 Perched at 756m above sea level, Kalavryta (kah-lah-vrih-tah) is a delightful resort town offering fresh mountain air, gushing springs and a tree-shaded plaza. There is something of a miniboom going on here as Kalavryta evolves into a resort town for wealthy Athenians, who arrive in numbers on weekends and during the winter ski season. Two relatively recent historical events have assured the town of Kalavryta a place in the hearts of all Greeks. First, despite plenty of evidence that fighting had already begun elsewhere, the official version of the War of Independence states that the revolt against the Turks began here on 25 March 1821, when Bishop Germanos of Patra raised the Greek flag at Moni Agias Lavras, 6km from Kalavryta. Second, on 13 December 1943, in one of the worst atrocities of WWII, the Nazis set fire to the town and massacred all its male inhabitants over the age of 15, as punishment for resistance activity. The total number killed in the region was The hands of the old cathedral clock stand eternally at 2.34, the time the massacre began. The event is solemnly and movingly recorded in the old schoolhouse, now a museum dedicated to the memory of those killed. Orientation & Information When the train is running, most visitors arrive at the train station on the northern edge of town, opposite the museum. To the right of the museum is Syngrou, a pedestrian precinct. After one block, it becomes 25 Martiou. To the left of the museum is Konstantinou. The central square, Kalavrytou, is between these two streets, two blocks up from the train station. The bus station is on Kapota. From Syngrou, turn right at Hotel Maria onto Kapota, cross Ethnikis Antistassis and you ll see the buses parked outside at the bottom of the hill. There is no tourist office. The websites and have good local information. National Bank of Greece (25 Martiou) Just before Kalavrytou. Post office (h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Behind Kalavrytou. Sights MUSEUM OF THE KALAVRYTA HOLOCAUST This extraordinary museum (% ; 25 Martiou; admission free; h10am-2pm Tue-Sun) should be a compulsory first stop for all visitors to this village. It is a most powerful tribute to the memory of the 1436 men and boys slaughtered by the German army in the region during WWII. It s a dignified, understated, yet extremely evocative account of the struggle between the occupying forces and partisan fighters in the area, and the events running up to the massacre; an atrocity partly put in motion by the partisans execution of a group of German prisoners. Whatever you do, don t pass by the continous-loop videos dotted throughout the exhibition. These are the accounts of villagers who survived as children, after being locked with their mothers in the schoolhouse (the museum building), apparently to be burned alive, only to escape; they were left to bury the dead. The wall covered with pictures of the dead Kalavryta villagers is an especially striking memorial. MARTYRS MONUMENT A huge white cross on a cypress-covered hillside just east of town marks the site of the 1943 massacre. Beneath this imposing monument is a poignant little shrine to the victims. It is signposted off Konstantinou. Sleeping More plush lodges are cropping up outside the village; the village itself has few hotel options. Peak period here is the ski season (November to April), when reservations are essential. Bookings are also required on weekends throughout the year, when Athenians come to enjoy the cool mountain air. Prices are slashed by as much as 50% at other times. There are no budget hotels, but there are several domatia (cheap accommodation option) on the streets behind the train station. Hotel Kynaitha (% ; Ethnikis Andistasis 11; s/d/tr incl breakfast 80/95/115; a) Modern and comfortable with attractively furnished rooms boasting amenities like minibar, safe, hairdryer and TV, plus large beds, gleaming white bathrooms and posh toiletries. Hotel Filoxenia (% ; Ethnikis Andistasis 10; s/d/tr incl breakfast 92/121/150; ai) Kind of like an old-fashioned ski lodge old, brown and a bit daggy, but comfortable and friendly. Rooms have a minibar, safe, hairdryer, TV and balcony. Hotel Helmos (% ; info@hotelhelmos.gr; Eleftherias 1; s/d/tr 100/150/200; ai) The newest, plushest and snobbiest kid on the block, with all the creature comforts in plush and contemporary surrounds. Prices are slashed on weekdays and in low season. Wi-fi is available. Eating Most places to eat are on 25 Martiou. Even out of ski season Kalavryta is one of the weekend places for Athenians. It has an abundance of trendy bars and cafés, most clustered close to the train station, and some offering snack food. Ellinikon (% ; snacks 1-3) A terrific bakery near the petrol station on the road out of town towards Patra and Klitoria, this has ideal picnic fare: wonderful bread, minipizzas and dozens of types of sweet pastries. Gri Gri Café (25 Martiou; snacks ) Opposite the museum and a good (less fashion-conscious) family-run spot. Recommended for its sweet or savoury homemade snacks, such as cheese pie, baklava and tasty crèmas (sweet, set custard). Taverna Elatos (% ; Kalavrytou; mains 5-9) Set just back from the square with a modest terrace for alfresco dining, this attractive place has hearty traditional taverna staples. Getting There & Around At the time of research, the rack-and-pinion train to Diakofto via Zahlorou was closed due to ongoing track work. Check in Diakofto to see whether it is running. There are buses to Patra ( 6.80, two hours, five daily), Athens ( 14.40, three hours, at least one daily) and Klitoria. Most of the attractions are out of town, so it s very handy to have your own transport. Kalavryta s taxi rank (% ) is in front of the train station. AROUND KALAVRYTA Moni Agias Lavras Μονή Αγίας Λαύρας The original 10th-century monastery (h10am- 1pm & 4-5pm summer only) was burnt by the Nazis. The new monastery has a small museum where the banner standard is displayed along with other monastic memorabilia. Buses heading south from Kalavryta to Klitoria can drop you a short walk from the monastery, or take a taxi (one way 5). Cave of the Lakes Σπήλαιο των Λιμνών The remarkable Cave of the Lakes (% ; adult/child 8/4; h9am-6.30pm May- Aug, 9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6.30pm Sat & Sun rest of year) lies 16.5km south of Kalavryta near the village of Kastria. The cave features in Greek mythology and is mentioned in the writings of the ancient traveller Pausanias, but its whereabouts remained unknown in modern times until 1964, when locals noticed water pouring from the roof of a smaller, lower cave after heavy rain and decided to investigate. They found themselves in a large bat-filled cavern at the start of a winding 2km-long cave carved out by a subterranean river. The cavern is now reached by an artificial entrance, which is the starting point for a 500m boardwalk that snakes up the riverbed. You must go with a guide (Greek speaking) on the 35-minute tour. The ornate stalactites are mere sideshows alongside the lakes themselves. The lakes are a series of 13 stone basins formed by mineral deposits over the millennia. In summer the waters dry up to reveal a curious lacework of walls, some up to 3m high. Getting to the cave is difficult without your own transport. A taxi from Kalavryta costs about 20 return. Trout Farms & Restaurants A pleasant afternoon s eating can be had in the tiny village of Planitero, about 20km south of Kalavryta (6km north of the village of Klitoria), where half a dozen trout restaurants and several trout farms line the banks of the tree-lined River Aroanios. Several have outdoor seating areas built out over the river. You can t really go wrong choosing a restaurant. They offer similar fare at similar prices. Just cruise the bank until you find one that suits you. The turn-off to Planitero is signposted to the left about 4km short of Klitoria. Recommended for its pretty indoor and garden setting (if nothing else) is O Planiteros (% ; trout 6-8), which is before the village, on the left-hand side. The trout farm adjoins the restaurant and the owners have comfortable rooms (% ; per person 30) nearby. PELOPONNESE

91 170 CORINTHIA Corinth CORINTHIA Corinth 171 PELOPONNESE MYTHOLOGY MADE PELOPONNEASY If you are interested in treading the real landscape of Greek mythology, the Peloponnese is home to a great many of its fabled places. It takes some getting used to seeing so many road signs to places of legend, such as Mycenae, Tiryns and Nestor s Palace; homes to Homer s heroes and villains in the Iliad, and places of real historical as well as mythological interest. If you want to find the entrance to the Underworld, try exploring along the River Styx in northeastern Arkadia, known to modern Greeks as the River Mavroneri. Or perhaps you d prefer to gaze upon the egg from which Aphrodite hatched, just off a magnificent spot on the remote island of Kythira ( p224 ). Even the territory itself is named after a mythical figure Pelops who, according to legend, became king of Elia after sneakily defeating the previous king Oimanaos in a chariot race (by nobbling his chariot wheels) and to whom subsequent rulers from the area were desperate to prove a blood line. Gods and demigods sported here, too, including Pan, who sexually harassed nymphs in bucolic Arkadia, and Hercules, who worked as a kind of supernatural pest controller, ridding the country around Argos of the many-headed Hydra and strangling the fearsome Nemean Lion at Nemea. According to the ancient Greek writer Plutarch, even Zeus himself celebrated here, after beating his father Cronos at wrestling, by holding the first ever Olympics at Ancient Olympia. Exohiko Kentro Piges (% /1660; trout 6) has a good reputation for fast, friendly service. You can enjoy your trout fried or grilled and accompanied by a healthy salad. It also serves delicious saganaki (fried cheese) made from local sheep s milk cheese (kefalotyri). Activities SKIING With 12 runs and seven lifts (one chairlift), the ski centre (% ; -ski.gr; h9am-4pm Dec-Apr), elevation 1700m to 2340m, is 14km east of Kalavryta on Mt Helmos (2340m). It has a cafeteria and first-aid centre but no overnight accommodation. Several outlets in Kalavryta rent skis; try Ski Time Center (% ; Agiou Alexiou). There is no public transport to the ski centre from Kalavryta. A taxi costs about 20 return. The season lasts from December to April, snow permitting. RAFTING & KAYAKING Eco Action (% , ) offers a choice of rafting or kayaking (both 45 to 50) on the Ladonas River (20km south of Klitoria). It also runs 4WD, walking, canyoning and mountain-biking excursions. Its riverside base camp is signposted off the Vlacherna Lambia road. CORINTHIA ΚΟΡΙΝΘIΑ Corinthia has disappointingly little to show for all its rich and tumultuous history (something it owes largely to its strategic position adjoining the Isthmus of Corinth). Throughout time several empires have wrestled for dominance over the Peloponnese here; the Romans constructed a vast wall across the isthmus, many centuries later the Turks overran it and pretty much everyone else has attempted to carve a canal across it (like most large-scale civil engineering projects the schedule slipped a little bit behind: about 2600 years, in fact). The Corinthia region was once dominated by the mighty, ancient city of Corinth. This site has had much work done of late and makes a fascinating visit. Several minor sites in the pretty hinterland west of Corinth are worth a detour if you have time and your own transport. CORINTH ΚΟΡΙΝΘΟΣ pop 29,787 Modern Corinth (ko-rin-thoss), located 6km west of the Corinth Canal, is the administrative capital of Corinthia prefecture. The town was built here after the old town was destroyed by an earthquake in The new town was wrecked by another, equally violent and damaging, earthquake in 1928 and badly damaged again in The rather dull, modern town is dominated by cold concrete edifices, built to withstand future earthquakes. But it has a pleasant harbour, a thriving stretch of café-lined beachfront and helpful, friendly locals. Unless you re stuck here for transport reasons, it s not an especially compelling destination to hang around. Orientation & Information Corinth is laid out on a grid of wide streets stretching back from the waterfront. Social activity clusters in the café-lined pedestrian Pilarinou, and the nearby Kalamia, 1km west of the port. At the time of research major works were disrupting the (formerly) social square by the harbour, El Venizelou. Administrative activity is around Kentriki, 200m inland on Ethnikis Andistasis. There is no EOT in Corinth. National Bank of Greece (Ethnikis Andistasis) Has ATM. Police (% ) In the same building as the tourist police. Sisifou CORINTH Notara Stefanou Aratou Krokida To Kalamia (400m); Restaurant Arodo To Blue Dolphin Campground (4km); Lecheon (6km); Ancient Corinth (7km); Nemea (31km); Patra (140km) Adimantou Koliatsou 9 Pavlou Kyprou 16 Pilarinou Periandrou Kolokotroni Kentriki Ethnikis Andistasis Damaskinou 5 Agiou Nikolaou Post office (Adimantou 33; h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Stretto Internet Café (% ; Pilarinou 70; per hr 3; h8.30am-10.30pm Mon-Sat) Tourist police (% ; Ermou 51, Kentriki; h8am-2pm) Sights & Activities To the south of the wharf, the Folk Museum (% ; Ermou 1; admission 1.50; h8.30am- 2.30pm Tue-Sun) focuses on bridal and festive costumes from the past three centuries from the islands and the mainland. There is also metalwork, embroidery, gold and silver objects, and carvings, both secular and ecclesiastical. If you re spending time in town, it s worth heading for Kalamia, an attractive strip of sand fronted by a fashionable and thriving row of cafés and restaurants, 1km due west of the port. Tours Skliris Travel (% ; skliris1@otenet.gr; Ethnikis Andistasis 8) offers visitors around six tours per week through the Corinth Canal ( p174 ) for 17. INFORMATION National Bank of Greece... 1 B2 Police...(see 5) Post Office... 2 B3 Skliris Travel... 3 B2 Stretto Internet Café... 4 B2 Tourist Police... 5 B3 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Folk Museum... 6 C2 Town Hall... 7 B3 El Venizelou Ermou Dervenakion Port 6 Ethnikis Anexartisias Corinthian Bay Agiou Nikolaou Pirinis m miles SLEEPING Hotel Apollon... 8 C3 Hotel Ephira... 9 B3 Hotel Korinthos C3 EATING Courser C3 Produce Market B2 Vasilopoulos Supermarket B2 TRANSPORT KTEL Korinthos Bus Station D3 Local Bus Stop B3 Local Bus Stop B3 Local Bus Stop C3 Vasilopoulos Rent a Car B3 Dimocratias 14 Former Train Station To Loutraki (5km) To Corinth Canal (5km); Isthmia (7km); Athens (84km) PELOPONNESE

92 172 CORINTHIA Corinth Book accommodation online at CORINTHIA Ancient Corinth & Acrocorinth 173 PELOPONNESE Sleeping BUDGET Blue Dolphin Campground (% /7; camp sites per adult/tent 6.50/5; hapr-oct; s) About 4km west of town beyond the ruins of the ancient port of Lecheon is this well-organised camping ground. It has its own stretch of Gulf of Corinth pebble beach. Buses from Corinth to Lecheon can drop you there. Hotel Apollon (% ; Pirinis 18; s/d 40/50; a) This recently renovated place is the town s current best by a gulf. The smallish rooms are decked out in contemporary wooden panelling and with other trimmings, including TV and double-glazed windows. It s diagonally opposite a stylish bakery. Breakfast costs 6. MIDRANGE Hotel Korinthos (% /2/3; hotel.gr; Damaskinou 26; s/d/tr 50/59/65; a) In general, it s like the rest of Corinth it has definitely seen better days. The dated rooms have balconies and those at the back have views over the Gulf of Corinth. But management is friendly and there s also a roof garden. Hotel Ephira (% /4021; Ethnikis Andistasis 52; s/d/tr 50/60/65; a) This may be Corinth s smartest hotel the locals recommend it as such. Indeed, it s comfortably furnished, but hides a few blemishes. The more spacious suites on the 6th floor are a notch more upmarket. Breakfast costs 5. Eating There are limited dining options in town. Good cafés line Pilarinou. Courser (% ; Agiou Nikolaou 19; mains ; hlunch & dinner) Chinese restaurant favourites to eat in or take away, close to the bus and train stations. The outside dining area overlooking the water and back gardens is a bonus. Restaurant Arodo (% ; mains 8-16; hlunch & dinner) This restaurant has model ships inside and views of real ones in the Gulf beyond. In line with all things marine, fish dishes are the catch here. The premises caged canaries are a little brighter than the service, but you ll not much care once you re kicking back on the comfy chairs indoors or on the shrub-lined deck outside. For self-caterers, Vasilopoulos supermarket (% ; Kolokotroni 8; h8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am- 6pm Sat) is the best of the supermarkets around town. The Produce Market (cnr Kyprou & Periandrou) is the main market for fruit and veg, meat, cheese and other foods. Entertainment You ll find most of the evening action in the cafés along Kalamia, which is also a good place to sunbathe or sip a drink during the day. The cafés along Pilarinou are popular with younger locals. Getting There & Away BUS Buses to Athens ( 7, 1½ hours) leave every 45 minutes from the KTEL Korinthos bus station (% ; Dimocratias 4). This is also the departure point for buses to Ancient Corinth ( 1.20, 20 minutes, hourly), Lecheon ( 1.20, 15 minutes, half-hourly) and Nemea ( 4.10, one hour, six daily). You can also catch these buses from the corner of Kolokotroni and Koliatsou. Buses to Isthmia ( 1.20, 15 minutes, four daily) and Loutraki ( 1.20, 20 minutes) depart from the local bus stops on either Damaskinou and Pirinus or Aratou and Andistasis. All buses to other regions in the Peloponnese can be caught from the new KTEL bus station on the Peloponnese side of the Corinth Canal (see boxed text, below ). To get there from Corinth, catch one of the frequent local buses to Loutraki. C A R There are several car-rental outlets around the city centre, including Vasilopoulos Rent a Car (% ; Adimantou 39). TRAIN Seven trains daily head along the north coast to Diakofto ( 2.10, 1½ hours) and Patra ( 3.20). NEW KTEL BUS STATION: GATEWAY TO THE PELOPONNESE There is a recently opened KTEL bus station located on the new national highway on the Peloponnese side of the Corinth Canal. This is the spot to change for buses south to the rest of the Peloponnese. At the time of research no formal schedules were available but all buses from Athens heading to the Peloponnese stop here. For a rough idea of times, add 1½ hours for buses departing from Athens. Six trains run daily to Pyrgos. For Olympia you must change to the local train at Patra. At the time of research the inland line to Tripoli was under repair and replacement buses were in service. Alternatively, take the KTEL buses from the Corinth Canal (see boxed text, opposite ) A handy new train service (the proastiako) runs between Corinth and Athens airport ( 8, one hour, eight daily). ANCIENT CORINTH & ACROCORINTH ΑΡΧΑΙΑ ΚOΡΙΝΘΟΣ & ΑΚΡΟΚOΡΙΝΘΟΣ Ancient Corinth was an affluent and powerful city during its first golden age, when Greek merchants made a mint from their control of trade on both sides of the isthmus and, centuries later, when the Romans rebuilt it anew (but only after first trashing the place in revenge for resisting its rule a few decades earlier). Earthquakes and centuries of pillage left little standing of Ancient Corinth, except for remnants of once grand buildings, located 7km southwest of the modern city. Thanks to recent improvements to the site, including excellent new paths, on-site descriptions and a lovely site museum (which is divided into classical and Roman periods), this wondrous ancient city has come beautifully to life and makes a fascinating visit. Surrounding the site is the village of Ancient Corinth. Towering 575m above is the Acrocorinth, a massive and much more physically imposing limestone outcrop. It commands dramatic views across the surrounding valleys and hills and is well worth perusing if you have time. Stout shoes are a sensible precaution on the uneven ground. Most visitors come on whirlwind guided tours from Athens, but there s enough here to warrant an overnight stay. With a choice of restaurants and tavernas, it s also a better alternative to staying in modern Corinth. History During the 6th century BC Corinth was one of ancient Greece s richest cities, thanks to its strategic position on the Isthmus of Corinth. Its twin ports, one on the Aegean Sea (Kenchreai, near Kechries) and one on the Ionian Sea (Lecheon) enabled it to trade throughout the Mediterranean. It survived the Peloponnesian Wars and flourished under Macedonian rule, but it was sacked by the Roman consul Mummius in 146 BC for rebelling against Roman rule. In 44 BC Julius Caesar began rebuilding the city and it again became a prosperous port. During Roman times, when Corinthians weren t clinching business deals, they were paying homage to the goddess of love, Aphrodite, in a temple dedicated to her (which meant partying with the temple s sacred prostitutes, both male and female). St Paul, perturbed by the Corinthians wicked ways, spent 18 mostly fruitless months preaching here. Sights ANCIENT CORINTH The ruins (% ; site & museum adult/concession 6/3; h8am-7.30pm Apr-Oct, 8am-5pm Nov-Mar) lie right in the centre of the modern village. The remains are mostly from Roman times. An exception is the prominent 5th-century- BC Doric Temple of Apollo. To the south of this temple is a huge agora (forum) bounded on its southern side by the foundations of a stoa. This was built to accommodate the bigwigs summoned here in 337 BC by Philip II to sign oaths of allegiance to Macedon. In the middle of the central row of shops is a bema, a marble podium from which Roman officials addressed the people. At the eastern end of the forum are the remains of the Julian Basilica. To the north is the Lower Peirene fountain the Upper Peirene fountain is on Acrocorinth. According to mythology, Peirene wept so much when her son Kenchrias was killed by Artemis that the gods, rather than let all the precious water go to waste, turned her into a fountain. In reality, it s a natural spring that has been used since ancient times and still supplies old Corinth with water. The water tanks are concealed in a fountain house with a six-arched façade. The remains of frescoes can be seen through the arches. West of the fountain, steps lead to the Lecheon road, once the main thoroughfare to the port of Lecheon. On the east side of the road is the Peribolos of Apollo, a courtyard flanked by Ionic columns, some of which have been restored. Nearby is a public latrine, where some seats remain. The site s museum contains fine Greek and Roman statues, mosaics, figurines, reliefs and friezes. Opposite the site entrance is the ancient theatre, which you can view from the road. PELOPONNESE

93 174 CORINTHIA Corinth Canal Book accommodation online at CORINTHIA Ancient Nemea 175 PELOPONNESE ACROCORINTH The sheer bulk of limestone known as Acrocorinth (admission free; h8am-3pm) was one of the finest natural fortifications in ancient Greece and it remains an impressive ruin to this day, commanding wonderful views over the surrounding region. The original fortress was built in ancient times, but it has been modified many times over the years by a string of invaders. The ruins are a medley of imposing Roman, Byzantine, Frankish, Venetian and Turkish ramparts, harbouring remains of Byzantine chapels, Turkish houses and mosques. On the higher of Acrocorinth s two summits is the Temple of Aphrodite where the sacred courtesans (exactly how these differed from the less holy variety isn t clear), who so raised the ire of St Paul, catered to the desires of the insatiable Corinthians. Little remains of the temple, but the views are tremendous. It s a bit of a (do-able) hike to the fortress and there s no bus. If you re lucky, you can grab a lift or take a village taxi. Sleeping & Eating There are several places in the village advertising rooms to rent. Rooms to Rent Tasos (% ; s/d/tr 30/40/50; a) In the village centre, on the road into town from Corinth, and above Taverna O Tasos are these basic, but clean and convenient, rooms. Tasos, the elderly owner, loves a chat. Marinos Rooms (% ; fax ; s/d incl breakfast 37/45; p) The 1980s-style glass façade glosses over any flaws, but it has clean rooms and a pretty and shady garden. Also operates an on-site taverna in summer, and gets booked out in June with archaeology students. Taverna Dionysos (% ; mains 7-13) This is the pick of the tavernas in town, as much for its more upmarket décor as for its freshly cooked fare. In high season, however, it brings out the more familiar Greek favourites. CORINTH CANAL ΔΙΩΡΥΓΑ ΤΗΣ ΚΟΡΙΝΘΟΥ The concept of cutting a canal through the Isthmus of Corinth to link the Ionian and Aegean Seas was first proposed by Periander, tyrant of Ancient Corinth at the end of the 7th century BC. The magnitude of the task defeated him, so he opted instead to build a paved slipway, or diolkos, across which sailors dragged small ships on rollers, a method used until the 13th century. In the intervening years many leaders, including Alexander the Great and Caligula, toyed with the canal idea, but it was Nero who actually began digging in AD 67. In true megalomaniac fashion, he struck the first blow himself, using a golden pickaxe. He then left it to 6000 Jewish prisoners to do the hard work. The project was soon halted by invasions by the Gauls. It was not until the 19th century ( ) that a French engineering company completed the canal. The Corinth Canal, cut through solid rock, is over 6km long and 23m wide. The vertical sides rise 90m above the water. The canal did much to elevate Piraeus status as a major Mediterranean port. It s an impressive sight, particularly when a ship is passing through. Corinth-based Skliris Travel ( p171 ) offers cruises through the canal. Getting There & Away The easiest way to get to the canal is by Loutraki bus from modern Corinth to the canal bridge. Any bus or train between Corinth and Athens will pass over the bridge. ISTHMIA/KYRAS VRYSI ΙΣΘΜIΑ/ΚΥΡΑΣ ΒΡΥΣΗ Near modern Isthmia and 8km east of Corinth at the southeastern end of the Corinth Canal is the present-day village of Kyras Vrysi. It was formerly the site of the biennial Isthmian Games one of four events that made up the Panhellenic Games circuit along with the games at Delphi, Nemea and Olympia. The first recorded games at Isthmia were staged in 582 BC, organised by the city of Corinth in honour of Poseidon, god of the sea, who had long been associated with the site. Corinth continued to host the games until its destruction by Rome in 146 BC. The Isthmia Museum and (archaelogical) site (% ; admission free; h8.30am-3pm Tue- Sun) are located in Kyras Vrysi. The site and museum were closed for renovation at the time of research (scheduled to open 2008). As well as the previously uncovered remains the Sanctuary of Poseidon, a defensive wall, and a Roman theatre archaeologists have since uncovered a Roman bath and an early stadium. THE WINE ROAD The Nemea region, in the rolling hills southwest of Corinth, is one of Greece s premier wineproducing areas, famous for its full-bodied reds, produced from the local agioritiko grape. Look out also for wine made from roditis, a local variety of white grape. Nemea has been known for its fine wines since Mycenaean times, when nearby Phlius supplied the wine for the royal court at Mycenae. Until recent times production took place behind closed doors, but growers are waking up to the tourist potential of winery tours and tastings and are marketing their wine region. About half a dozen wineries provide tastings for visitors (usually free). They include Skouras (% ; h9am-3pm) northwest of Argos, Ktima Palivou (% ; h9am-4pm) in Ancient Nemea (with a good selection of Cabernet Sauvignon) and Lafkioti (% ; h9am-4pm) in Ancient Kleonai, 3km east of Ancient Nemea. North of Nemea and further up into some pretty hill country you ll find Gaia Wines (% / ; Koutsi;htastings 9am-4pm), which produces unfiltered wines ranging from inexpensive vins de pays to pricier Appellation d Origine Controlée (AOC) varieties. A bit further along the road is the dramatically located Domaine Helios (% ; which produces various varieties of reds, whites and a rosé. Tours and tastings can be arranged by appointment. To learn more about Greek wines, visit Dimitris Karonis at his wine shop in Nafplio (see p185 ). The fortifications here formed part of the Hexamillion, a defensive wall built across the Isthmus of Corinth by the Byzantine Emperor Theodosius II in the first half of the 5th century, to protect the Peloponnese against invasion by the Huns. It was called the Hexamillion because of its length six Roman miles (7500m). The remains of the wall can be seen beneath the Athens Corinth toll road, 6km southeast of Corinth. Roadworks here uncovered about 150m of wall, together with a small fort and several defensive towers. The site is signposted off the old Corinth Athens road. It s not enclosed, and there s no admission charge. Old National Rd to Athens crosses the canal at Isthmia by a submersible bridge, which is lowered to allow ships to pass over it. Getting There & Away To get to Kyras Vrysi, take the buses to Isthmia from Corinth ( 1.50, 15 minutes, five daily). ANCIENT NEMEA ΑΡΧΑΙΑ ΝΕΜΕΑ Lying on the northeastern edge of modern Nemea, Ancient Nemea (% ; site, museum & stadium adult/concession 4/2; hmuseum 8am-7.30pm May-Oct, 8am-3pm Nov-Apr, closed Mon morning) is 31km southwest of Corinth. According to mythology, it was around here that Hercules carried out the first of his labours the slaying of the lion that had been sent by Hera to destroy Nemea. The lion became the constellation Leo (each of the 12 labours is related to a sign of the zodiac). Like Olympia, Nemea was not a city but a sanctuary and venue for the biennial Nemean Games, held in honour of Zeus. These games were hosted by the nearby city of Kleonai, and they became one of the great Panhellenic festivals. Three original columns of the 4thcentury-BC Doric Temple of Zeus survive, and have been joined by two more columns reassembled by an American team. Other ruins include a bathhouse and hostelry. The site s museum has a model of the site and explanations in English. The stadium (% ; stadium only adult/concession 2/1; h8.30am-3pm) is 500m back along the road, and was once connected to the sanctuary by a sacred road. The athletes starting line is still in place, together with the distance markers. Look out for ancient graffiti in the tunnel used by athletes to enter the stadium. Getting There & Away Buses from Corinth ( 4.10, one hour, six daily) will stop outside the site on the way to modern Nemea, a busy agricultural service town about 4km northwest of the site. There are also buses to Nemea from Argos ( 2.50, 40 minutes, three weekly on Monday, Thursday and Saturday). PELOPONNESE

94 176 ARGOLIS Argos Book accommodation online at ARGOLIS Mycenae 177 PELOPONNESE ARGOLIS ΑΡΓΟΛIΔΑ The Argolis Peninsula, which separates the Saronic and Argolic Gulfs, is a veritable treasure trove for archaeology buffs, history lovers and those after a fascinating frolic. The town of Argos, from which the region takes its name, is thought to be the longest continually inhabited town in Greece. Argolis was the seat of power of the Mycenaean Empire that ruled Greece from 1600 to 1200 BC. Its citadels, Mycenae and Tiryns, are two of the region s major attractions, along with the famous Theatre of Epidavros. The delightful old Venetian town of Nafplio makes a perfect base from which to explore. ARGOS ΑΡΓΟΣ pop 24,239 Argos is the oldest continuously inhabited town in Greece (stretching back an astonishing 6000 years). Today most vestiges of its past glory lie buried beneath the existing modern town. Argos is overshadowed by its nearest neighbour, Nafplio, which makes a much more appealing base to explore the region; Argos itself is mainly used by visitors as a transport hub for buses. However, it s an extremely pleasant, genuine and busy town; it s worth stopping for a quick look at the town s museum, as well as the ruins and fortress out of town. There are worse places to be stranded if you do end up here a night. Orientation & Information Argos showpiece and focal point is its grand central square, Agiou Petrou, with its Art Nouveau street lights, citrus and palm trees, and the impressive Church of Agios Petros. Beyond, Argos deteriorates into a fairly typical working town. The main bus station is just south of the central square on Kapodistriou, while the train station is on the southeastern edge of town by the road to Nafplio. An Alpha Bank is on the central square. There is no tourist office or tourist police. Café Net (% ; 28 Oktovriou 4; per hr 3) Travellers can check here. Police (%100) If you need them, this is the regular police. Post office (h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Clearly signposted on Kapodistriou, southeast of the central square. Sights ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Even if you re only passing through Argos, try to pause long enough to visit the Archaeological Museum of Argos (% ; adult/concession 2/1; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), on the edge of the central square. The collection includes some outstanding and complete Roman mosaics and sculptures, and bronze objects from the Mycenaean tombs. Highlights include the statuette of a goddess, the mosaic of the four seasons in the courtyard, a suit of 8th-century-BC bronze armour, and some fine Neolithic, Mycenaean and Geometric pottery; including some outstanding Argive grey and brown vases dating back to before 1600 BC. ROMAN RUINS & FORTRESS OF LARISSA There are rather abandoned Roman ruins (admission free; h8.30am-3pm) on both sides of Tripolis. To get there from the central square, head south along Danaou for about 500m and then turn right onto Theatrou, which joins Tripolis opposite the star attraction: the enormous theatre, which could seat up to 20,000 people (more than at Epidavros). It dates from classical times but was greatly modified by the Romans. Nearby are the remains of a 1st-century AD odeion (indoor theatre) and Roman baths. It is a 45-minute hard slog by footpath from the theatre up to the Fortress of Larissa, which is a conglomeration of Byzantine, Frankish, Venetian and Turkish architecture, standing on the foundations of the city s principal ancient citadel. There is also a road to the top of the fortress, signposted from the centre of town. Sleeping Hotel Apollon (% ; Papaflessa 13; s/d/tr 25/35/50; a) The best budget choice, tucked away on a quiet side street behind the central square. Although basic, the rooms come with TV. Hotel Morfeas (% ; cnr Agiou Petrou & Danaou 2; s 40, d 50-70, incl breakfast; ai) This is smart and modern with little toiletries and other trimmings, especially for business visitors. Hotel Mycenae (% ; fax ; Agiou Petrou 10; s/d/apt incl breakfast 30/50/85; a) Situated on the central square, the 1970s-style Hotel Mycenae has large, comfortable rooms and a four-bed apartment. A few hooks are missing here and there off the organza curtains, but this hotel is well placed for a reasonable stay. Eating Restaurant Aigli (% ; Agiou Petrou 6; mains 5-9) A reasonable mezedhes (appetisers) selection and familiar taverna dishes accompany pizzas and burgers on the extensive menu at this well-located restaurant. With outdoor seating opposite the church in the central square, this is perfect for peoplewatching. There are several supermarkets around the town centre or try to catch the Wednesday or Saturday market on Tsokri. Getting There & Away BUS Just south of the central square, KTEL Argolis (% ; Kapodistriou 8) has bus services to Nafplio ( 1.20, 30 minutes, half-hourly), Mycenae ( 1.20, 30 minutes, four daily) and Nemea ( 2.50, one hour, three weekly on Monday, Thursday and Saturday). There are also hourly bus services to Athens between 5.30am and 11pm ( 10.20, two hours, six daily), via Corinth ( 4, 50 minutes), and to Tripoli ( 4, one hour, four daily except Sunday). Services south to Astros ( 2.60, one hour) and Leonidio ( 6.70, 2¼ hours) are operated by KTEL Arkadia from Kafeneio Christos Klisaris (% ; Theatrou 40). There are three services a day on this route. TRAIN At the time of research, the Kalamata Corinth railway line was closed due to track work (see boxed text, p161 ). MYCENAE ΜΥΚHΝΕΣ pop 450 The modern village of Mycenae (mih-keenes), 12km north of Argos and just east of the main Argos Corinth road, is geared towards the hordes of package tourists that visit Ancient Mycenae and has little to recommend it other than its proximity to the ancient site, 2km to the north. There is accommodation along its main road. There s no bank, but the mobile post office at the ancient site has a currency service (summer only). Sights ANCIENT MYCENAE In the barren foothills of Mt Agios Ilias (750m) and Mt Zara (600m) stand the sombre and mighty ruins of Ancient Mycenae (% ; Citadel, Treasury of Atreus & museum 8; hsite 8am- 7.30pm summer, 8.30am-3pm winter). For 400 years ( BC) this vestige of a kingdom was the most powerful in Greece, holding sway over the Argolid (the modern-day prefecture of Argolis) and influencing the other Mycenaean kingdoms. History & Mythology World Heritage listed Mycenae is synonymous with the names Homer and Schliemann. In the 9th century BC Homer told in his epic poems, the Iliad and the Odyssey, of well-built Mycenae, rich in gold. These poems were, until the 19th century, regarded as no more than gripping and beautiful legends. But in the 1870s the amateur archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann ( ), despite derision from professional archaeologists, struck gold, first at Troy then at Mycenae (although, owing to doubts about the provenance of some of his information and even allegations that he falsified some finds to fit his theories, his reputation has since suffered). In Mycenae, myth and history are inextricably linked. According to Homer, the city of Mycenae was founded by Perseus, the son of Danae and Zeus. Perseus greatest heroic deed was the killing of the hideous snake-haired Medusa, whose looks literally petrified the beholder. Eventually, the dynasty of Perseus was overthrown by Pelops, a son of Tantalus. The Mycenaean Royal House of Atreus was probably descended from Pelops, although myth and history are so intertwined, and the genealogical line so complex, that no-one really knows. Whatever the bloodlines, by Agamemnon s time the House of Atreus was the most powerful of the Achaeans (Homer s name for the Greeks). It eventually came to a sticky end, fulfilling the curse that had been cast because of Pelops misdeeds. The historical facts are that Mycenae was first settled by Neolithic people in the 6th millennium BC. Between 2100 and 1900 BC, during the Old Bronze Age, Greece was invaded by people of Indo-European stock who had crossed Anatolia via Troy to Greece. The invaders brought an advanced culture to then-primitive Mycenae and other mainland PELOPONNESE

95 178 ARGOLIS Mycenae Book accommodation online at ARGOLIS Mycenae 179 PELOPONNESE CITADEL OF MYCENAE A To Museum (200m) To Mycenae (2km) settlements. This new civilisation is now referred to as the Mycenaean, named after its most powerful kingdom. The other kingdoms included Pylos, Tiryns, Corinth and Argos, all in the Peloponnese. Evidence of Mycenaean civilisation has also been found at Thiva (Thebes) and Athens. The city of Mycenae consisted of a fortified citadel and surrounding settlement. Due to the sheer size of the citadel walls (13m high and 7m thick), formed by stone blocks weighing six tonnes in places, the ancient Greeks believed they must have been built by a Cyclops, one of the giants described in the Odyssey. Archaeological evidence indicates that the palaces of the Mycenaean kingdoms declined some time around 1200 BC and the palace itself was set ablaze in about 1100 BC. Whether the destruction was the work of outsiders or due to internal division between the various Mycenaean kingdoms remains unresolved. Exploring the Site Before exploring the site, it s a good idea to head to the impressive museum (admission incl site fee of 8; hnoon-7.30pm Mon, 8am-7.30pm Tue-Fri, 8am B C Agamemnon's Death Chamber... 1 C2 Agamemnon's Palace... 2 B2 Artisans' Quarters... 3 C2 Drain... 4 D1 Grave Circle A... 5 B1 Grave Circle B... 6 A1 Great Court... 7 C2 Houses... 8 B m miles 3 D Lion Gate... 9 B1 Megaron C2 Merchants' Houses A2 Postern Gate C1 Secret Cistern D1 Throne Room B2 Tomb of Aegisthus A1 Tomb of Clytaemnestra A1 Treasury of Atreus A pm Sat & Sun). It has good English explanations and contains numerous impressive finds from the digs, including pottery, weaponry and jewellery. On display are the important early clay tablets inscribed in Linear B, an early form of written language first unearthed in Knossos and a sign of the kingdom s wealth and power not to mention the highly organised nature of its administration. The lavish gold jewellery exhibits on display, including the gold funeral mask once thought to have been that of Agamemnon, are in fact copies (the originals can be found at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens, see p120 ). Entry to the Citadel of Mycenae is through the dramatic Lion Gate, solidly constructed of massive stone blocks, over which rear two large lionesses. This motif is believed to have been the insignia of the Royal House of Atreus. Inside the citadel, you will find Grave Circle A on the right as you enter. This was the royal cemetery and contained six grave shafts. Five shafts were excavated by Schliemann between 1874 and 1876, uncovering the famous and magnificent gold treasures, including a wellpreserved gold death mask. Fervently, he sent a telegram to the Greek king stating, I have gazed upon the face of Agamemnon. The mask turned out to be that of an unknown king who had died some 300 years before Agamemnon. To the south of Grave Circle A are the remains of a group of houses. In one was discovered the famous Warrior Vase, regarded by Schliemann as one of his greatest discoveries because it offered a glimpse of what Mycenae s legendary warriors looked like. The main path leads up to Agamemnon s Palace, centred on the Great Court. The rooms to the north were the private royal apartments. One of these rooms is believed to be the chamber in which Agamemnon was murdered. Access to the throne room, west of the Great Court, would originally have been via a large staircase. On the southeastern side of the palace is the megaron (reception hall). On the northern boundary of the citadel is the Postern Gate through which, it is said, Orestes escaped after murdering his mother. In the far northeastern corner of the citadel is the secret cistern, which can be explored by torchlight, but take care the steps are slippery. Until the late 15th century BC the Mycenaeans put their royal dead into shaft graves. They then devised a new form of burial the tholos tomb, shaped like a beehive. The approach road to modern Mycenae passes to the right of the best preserved of these, the Treasury of Atreus, or tomb of Agamemnon. A 40m-long passage leads to this immense beehive-shaped chamber. It is built with stone blocks that get steadily smaller as the structure tapers to its central point. Further along the road on the right is Grave Circle B, and nearby are the tholos tombs of Aegisthus and Clytaemnestra. Sleeping & Eating Camping Atreus (% ; atreus1@otenet.gr; camp sites per adult/tent 6/3.50; hapr-oct; ps) A well-equipped, shady camping ground on the edge of town on the main road from Fihtio. The friendly owner, Pandelis, speaks English. Hotel Klitemnistra (% ; nistrahotel.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast 35/40/40; a) This place has half a dozen clean, comfortable rooms, some with great balconies overlooking pretty rolling hills. Wi-fi access is available. The friendly Australian-Greek owners can suggest walks in the area. Book ahead in summer. Any of the town tavernas serve a standard grill (mains 6 to 10), although you may have to compete with tourist groups en-masse. Getting There & Away Three daily buses head to Mycenae from Nafplio ( 2.15, one hour) and Argos ( 1.35, 30 minutes). The buses stop in the village and at the ancient site. Other services, such as Athens Nafplio, advertise a stop at Mycenae but actually go no closer than the village of Fihtio on the main road, leaving you 3km from the village. AGAMEMNON AFFAIRS Agamemnon is one of the principal characters in the Iliad and crops up regularly in Greek legend. He was the son of Atreus and the king of Mycenae and was later the commander-in-chief of the Greeks during the Trojan war. He and his brother, Menelaus, both married the daughters of the King of Sparta, Clytaemnestra and Helen. According to legend, Paris, the son of the Trojan King, stole away Helen; this was the catalyst for the Trojan War when Agamemnon called on his country s princes to unite in a war of revenge. Around this time the goddess of hunting, Artemis, also sought revenge from Agamemnon and stalled the departing war ships with adverse winds. To make peace with Artemis, Agamemnon was forced to offer his daughter, Iphigenia, as a sacrifice. When Artemis then set the seas right again, the ships sailed from Aulis for Troy and the 10-year siege of Troy began. During the last year of war Agamemnon had a jealous quarrel with Achilles over the attentions of a captive female. Finally, Agamemnon returned to Argolis victorious with his war spoils, which included Cassandra, the Trojan princess. His victory was shortlived; on his return home he was murdered by his wife and her lover, Aegisthus. Years later Agamemnon s daughter, Electra, and her brother, Orestes, avenged their father s death by murdering Aegisthus and Clytaemnestra. PELOPONNESE

96 180 ARGOLIS Nafplio ARGOLIS Nafplio 181 PELOPONNESE NAFPLIO ΝΑΥΠΛΙΟ pop 13,822 The secret is out about Nafplio, one of Greece s prettiest and most romantic towns. It occupies a knockout location on a small port beneath the towering bulk of the Palamidi fortress and is graced with attractive narrow streets, elegant Venetian houses, neoclassical mansions with flower-bedecked balconies, and interesting museums. Overseas visitors have caught on to why weekending Athenians love this lively, upwardly mobile place that is jammed with quayside cafés, posh boutiques and many comfortable hotels and guesthouses. The town, 12km southeast of Argos on the Argolic Gulf, was the first capital of NAFPLIO Greece after Independence and has been a major port since the Bronze Age. So strategic was its position that it had three fortresses the massive principal fortress of Palamidi, the smaller Akronafplia and the diminutive Bourtzi on an islet west of the old town. Removed from the spotlight as capital of Greece after Kapodistrias assassination (by the Maniot chieftains Konstantinos and Georgos Mavromihalis), the town of Nafplio is regaining attention as a trendy resort (it does get somewhat overcrowded in high season and holidays). With good bus connections and services, the town is an ideal base from which to explore many nearby ancient sites. Orientation The old town occupies a narrow promontory with the Akronafplia fortress on the southern side and the promenades of Bouboulinas and Akti Miaouli on the north side. The principal streets of the old town are Amalias, Vasileos Konstantinou, Staïkopoulou and Kapodistriou. The old town s central square is Syntagmatos, at the western end of Vasileos Konstantinou. The bus station can be found on Syngrou, which is the street separating the old town from the new. The main street of the new town, known to locals by the name Neapolis, is 25 Martiou, which is an easterly continuation of Staïkopoulou m miles To Tiryns (4km); Mycenae (25km); Corinth (65km); Athens (160km) Information BOOKSHOPS Odyssey (% ; Syntagmatos) Stocks international newspapers, maps, and a small selection of novels in English, French and German. EMERGENCY Hospital (% ; cnr Asklipiou & Kolokotroni) Tourist police (% ; Eleftheriou 2) INTERNET ACCESS Echorama (% ; Staïkopoulou 31; per hr 3; h10am-9pm) A CD shop in the heart of the old town with a few internet terminals and fast connections. Internet Café Dadis (% ; Asklipiou 15; per hr 3; h9am-midnight) A hike out of town but more high-tech and with later opening hours. Also serves drinks, including a selection of 165 whiskeys (it s aiming for 200). LAUNDRY Bubbles (% ; Asklipiou 61; per load up to 5kg 9; h8am-9pm) At the western edge of town next to the army barracks. PELOPONNESE To Bourtzi Island (600m) Polizoidou 18 Akti Miaouli Spiliadou Farmakopoulou Akronafplia 9 Vyronos 46 Zygomala Argolic Gulf Agiou Nikolaou Free Parking Filellinon Panagia Syntagmatos Town Hall Agios Spiridonos Ypsilandou Staïkopoulou Argolic Gulf Bouboulinas Othonos Olgas Alexandrou Platonos Kokinou Vas Konstantinou Efthimiopoulou 31 Sofroni Amalias Plapouta Kapodistriou Moutzouridou Arvanitia Syngrou Polizoidou 5 50 To Karathona (3km) Train Station Bouboulinas 27 Sidiras Merarhias Kapodistria Neas Kiou Vasileos Konstantinou Old Train Station 25 Martiou Lakos Stadium Kilkis Thisseos Irakleous Vas Georgiou Agiou Nikitara Leoforos Argous Harmanda Chrisostomou Asklipiou Kolokotroni Averof Athinas 39 Argonafton 3 Moshonisiotou 4 Papakostopoulou 22 Agiou Adrianou To Bubbles Laundry (300m); Tourist Police (350m); Tolo (10km); Epidavros (30km); Kountouriotou To Palamidi Fortress (3.5km) Palamidiou MONEY All the major banks have branches in town. The following banks listed here have ATMs. Alpha Bank (Amalias) At the western end of the street. National Bank of Greece ( Syntagmatos) POST Post office (cnr Syngrou & Sidiras Merarhias; h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) TOURIST INFORMATION Municipal Tourist Office (% ; 25 Martiou 4; h9am-1pm & 4-8pm) Not the strongest aspect of the town s services. Staikos Tours (% ; Bouboulinas 50) A helpful source, as well as an efficient service for all travel services. Sights & Activities PALAMIDI FORTRESS This vast and spectacular citadel (% ; adult/concession 4/2; h8am-7pm summer, 8am-3pm winter) stands on a 216m-high outcrop of rock with excellent views down onto the sea and surrounding land. It was built by the Venetians between 1711 and 1714, and is regarded as a masterpiece of military architecture. Within its walls stands a series of independent bastions, strategically located across the hill. The most important, and best preserved, is the western Agios Andreas Bastion, which stands at the top

97 182 ARGOLIS Nafplio Book accommodation online at ARGOLIS Nafplio 183 PELOPONNESE INFORMATION Alpha Bank... 1 B3 Echorama... 2 C3 Hospital... 3 F3 Internet Café Dadis... 4 F2 Municipal Tourist Office... 5 D3 National Bank of Greece... 6 B3 Odyssey... 7 B3 Staikos Tours... 8 C2 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Akronafplia Fortress... 9 A4 Archaeological Museum B3 Church of Agios Spyridon B3 National Gallery Alexandros Soutzos Museum E3 Palamidi Fortress D4 Peloponnese Folklore Foundation Museum C2 Poliko Nosokomiou A3 War Museum C3 of the steps from town. It was the home of the garrison commander, and it is named after the tiny church in the interior courtyard. There are wonderful views over the Akronafplia and the old town from the bastion walls. The Miltiades Bastion, to the northeast, is the largest of the bastions. It was used as a prison for condemned criminals from 1840 to War of Independence hero Theodore Kolokotronis spent several years here after being condemned for treason. There are two main approaches to the fortress. You can go via the road (taxis cost about 6 to 7 one way) or the energetic can tackle the seemingly endless steps that begin southeast of the bus station. The exact number of steps is an issue of much conjecture. Locals claim that there are 999 steps, which has prompted many travellers to conduct independent counts. Most report a considerably lower figure; locals respond that the 999 steps are to the Church of Agios Andreas. Whatever the number, climb early and take water. AKRONAFPLIA FORTRESS Rising above the old part of town, the Akronafplia fortress is the oldest of Nafplio s three castles, although there s much less to see here than at the other two forts. The lower sections of the walls date back to the Bronze Age. Until the arrival of the Venetians, the town was restricted to within its walls. The Turks called it İç Kale (meaning inner castle ). It was used as a political prison from 1936 to SLEEPING Aetoma C3 Amphitryon Hotel A3 Dimitris Bekas B3 Hotel Amfitriti B3 Hotel Byron B3 Hotel Economou F1 Hotel Epidauros B3 Hotel Grande Bretagne B2 Hotel Ilion B3 Hotel Latini B2 Hotel Nafsimedon D3 Hotel Rex D2 Kyveli Suites B2 Nafplia Palace A3 Pension Marianna C3 Pension Nikolaos A3 EATING Amimoni Restaurant...(see 30) Antica Gelateria di Roma B2 Arapakos B2 Atlantik D2 Epi Skinis C2 Marinopoulos C2 Mezedopoleio O Noulis C3 O Pseiras F4 Omorfi Poli B2 Taverna Paleo Arhontiko B3 To Omorfo Tavernaki B2 DRINKING Lathos B3 SHOPPING Karonis Museum of the Komboloi Nektar & Amvrosia To Enotio B3 B3 B3 B3 TRANSPORT Avis C2 Boats to Bourtzi B2 Euro Moto Rent D2 KTEL Argolis Bus Station C3 Staikos Tours...(see 8) Taxi Rank C3 There s a lift up to the fortress from Poliko Nosokomiou at the western edge of town look for the flags at the entrance of the tunnel leading to the lift. It heads up to a flash hotel complex (see Nafplia Palace, p184 ) from where you can access the fortress. The old gateway to the fortress, crowned with a fine Venetian lion emblem, is at the top of Potamianou, the stepped street that heads uphill off Agios Spiridonos. BOURTZI The island fortress of Bourtzi lies about 600m west of the town s port. Most of the existing structure was built by the Venetians. Boats to the island leave from the northeastern end of Akti Miaouli. The trip costs 4 return per person. MUSEUMS Nafplio s award-winning Peloponnese Folklore Foundation Museum (% ; Vasileos Alexandrou 1; adult/concession 4/2; h9am-3pm Tue-Sun) is a beautifully displayed collection of folk costumes and household items from Nafplio s former times. National Gallery Alexandros Soutzos Museum (Sidiras Merarhias 23; adult/concession 3/1.50, admission free Mon; h10am-3pm & 5-8pm Wed-Mon, 10am-2pm Sun) Housed in a stunningly restored neoclassical building, this beautiful new gallery an arm of the Athens National Gallery displays works on the 1821 Greek War of Independence, including paintings of Greek painters Vryzakis and Tsokos, considered the most important painters of the postwar years. The paintings, a few sculptures and artefacts are divided according to themes: battles, dying heroes, victorious sea battles, consequences of war in everyday life and ideology of the Free State. The war museum (Amalias 22; admission free; h9am-2pm Tue-Sun) traces Greece s military history from the War of Independence onwards through a collection of photographs, paintings, uniforms and assorted weaponry. At the time of research the Archaeological Museum was closed for renovation, but you ll no doubt view its lovely building on Syntagmatos. BEACHES Arvanitia is a small pebble beach just 10 minutes walk south of town, tucked beside the Akronafplia fortress. If you re feeling energetic, you can follow a path east around the coast for about an hour to sandy Karathona, at the far side of the Palamidi fortress. The walk is extremely pretty, as would be the beach if it weren t for the litter. Walking Tour At the time of research the town s Cultural Organisation was testing a new initiative a recorded walking tour of the town. The walks and accompanying map and commentary in English and other languages are fascinating. The high-tech sound device allows you to plug in any number of the 50 or so sites, as desired. These are available at information booths on Filellinon or in front of the Town Hall. The walks are currently free, although fee introductions are being planned; in any case, you must leave your passport as a deposit. Check liotour.gr for details. Festivals & Events Nafplio hosts a classical music festival ( at some stage between late May and July featuring Greek and international performers. The venues used during this festival include the Palamidi fortress and Bourtzi. The town is also a good base for visits to Epidavros for performances (to a changing programme) at the famous theatre during the Hellenic Festival in July and August (for details, see p187 ). Sleeping BUDGET The old town is the most interesting place to be, although budget accommodation is limited. Camping Lido (% ; camp sites per adult/ tent 7/6) This well-organised camping ground, located at Tolo, 11km from Nafplio, receives rave reviews from travellers. It also has bungalows (per double 45). There are hourly buses to/from Nafplio ( 1) until 8pm. Hotel Economou (% ; Argonafton 22; dm without bathroom 10, s 15-20, d 25-30, tr 45) This basic but adequate hotel keeps a couple of shared rooms aside for budget travellers. The welcoming elderly owner speaks English. Turn at the Dia Discount supermarket. Dimitris Bekas (% ; Efthimiopoulou 26; s/d/tr 22/28/38) The only good, central budget option. The clean, homey rooms have a topvalue location on the slopes of the Akronafplia, as does its rooftop terrace. Hotel Epidauros (%/fax ; Kokinou 2; s/d 40/50/70) Just makes the grade, with ageing décor and fittings. MIDRANGE Hotel Byron (% ; Platonos 2; d 60-80, tr 90; a) Occupying a fine Venetian building and reasonably priced, the Byron is a reliable favourite, with neat rooms, iron bedsteads and period furniture. Breakfast costs 6. opension Marianna (% ; Potamianou 9; s 60-75, d 75-85, tr , all incl breakfast; pa) The choice for Nafplio s best-value sleeping option is this bright yellow icon. The equally warm and welcoming owner-hosts, the Zotos brothers, epitomise Greek filoxenia (hospitality) and serve up more than just delicious breakfasts in a cheerful dining area. Clean and comfortable rooms (all different, and some smaller than others) open onto terraces where you can feast on the view from your hill-top position. Heights come at a (small) cost several flights of stairs. Parking is available on the road behind leading up to the fortress. Hotel Rex (% ; Bouboulinas 21; s 65-75, d 85-95, tr ) A modern alternative in the new town, but often booked out by groups. Hotel Nafsimedon (% ; Sidiras Merarhias 9; s 66, d , tr , all incl breakfast; a) Unpretentious and elegant lodgings in a fine neoclassical mansion just outside PELOPONNESE

98 184 ARGOLIS Nafplio ARGOLIS Around Nafplio 185 PELOPONNESE BOUTIQUE HOTELS Recently, there has been an explosion of boutique hotels in Nafplio, catering to the moneyed Athenians and weekend out-of-towners. Most have between four and eight rooms in tastefully renovated mansions, with contemporary (or period) furnishings, plush fabrics and luxurious touches, including gourmet breakfasts, internet access and cable TV. Following are some excellent choices: Hotel Amfitriti (% ; Kapodistriou 24; d incl breakfast 85; a) The most artistic choice, with five stylish funky rooms. One bathroom has creatively incorporated a former hammam (Turkish bath). Kyveli Suites (% ; Alexandrou 18-20; s , d ) Rich furnishings in contemporary setting, and the best designer loos in Greece. Aetoma (% ; Agiou Spiridonos 2; d , tr 130) Dark, heavy and stylish furnishings. Readers report enjoyable stays in this 170-year-old mansion. Hotel Latini (% ; s/d/ste 80/90/140) Overlooking the pretty Agiou Nikolaou, with sunny, airy rooms and great views of the castle, water or plaza. Pension Nikolaos (% ; Psaromachala; s/d/tr 70/130/150) At the far western end of the old town, with lovely outlook over a quaint plaza and DIY breakfasts stocked in your fridge. Doubles are small. the old town. Antique rugs, timber floorboards and period furniture add to its charm. Hotel Ilion (% ; Kapidistriou 4; s incl breakfast 70, d incl breakfast ) Inyour-face elaborate rococco-style décor with your very own frescoes and fiddly bits. Hotel Grande Bretagne (% ; Filellinon; s/d/tr incl breakfast 130/180/280; a) Nafplion elegance this is a plush, traditionally styled period hotel and right in the heart of the waterfront café action. Reduced rates on weekdays. TOP END Amphitryon Hotel (% ; Spiliadou; d 290; pnai) This luxurious choice is close to Nafplio s café action and has contemporary décor, a touch of snob value, and comfort and service to match. Rates are higher for superior luxury and executive rooms. There is no single occupancy rate, but singles can have a double delux room at single rates on Sunday to Thursday for 261. Nafplia Palace (% ; hotels.gr; Akronafplia; d/bungalows/villas 350/480/1300; pais) For a step up in the ultimate take-no-prisoners luxury stakes, Amphitron s sister hotel offers ultramodern, uberchic villas, with personal butlers, hi-tech audiovisuals and mini swimming pools. Eating The streets of the old town are filled with dozens of restaurants, all serving good, hearty taverna fare. The in-your-face tourist eateries along Staïkopoulou won t stretch your sense of adventure; instead explore the alleys, where you ll find hidden treats. Mezedopoleio O Noulis (% ; Moutzouridou 22; mezedhes 2-10; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat) This modest place serves a faultlessly fresh range of mezedhes. The tasting plate of 10 different morsels is a tasty lunch in itself. Omorfi Poli (% ; Bouboulinas 75; mains 7-18; hdinner Mon-Sat) More upmarket than the neighbouring tavernas and well worth splurging the extra euro or two, the professional chef does gourmet wonders with Greek and Italian dishes to a changing menu (surprise!). If it s on offer, try to catch the farfalle with salmon ( 9). There is an excellent wine list with many local choices ( 17 to 47). oantica Gelateria di Roma (% ; cnr Farmakopoulou & Komninou) Bongiorno this is an Italian gelati shop! announces Italian gelati maestro and maestra Marcello and Claudio Raffo as you enter their premises. That s just in case you didn t see and smell (and we ll bet, soon taste) the smorgasbord of the best (yes, best) traditional gelati outside Italy. And don t say we didn t warn you! Recommended tavernas open daily for lunch and dinner (unless stated otherwise): Arapakos (% ; Bouboulinas 81; mains 6-10, fish per kg 25-80) If you re feeling fishy, hook onto this upmarket morsel for quality seafood. Epi Skinis (% ; mains 6-10) The name means on stage. The menu is less theatrical, but puts in an excellent performance. O Pseiras (% ; Porou 5; mains 6-10; hdinner Wed-Mon) This no-nonsense taverna will get you out of your comfort zone (it s in the Prania region, west of town), with reasonable fare, fun hosts and occasional live music. Taverna Paleo Arhontiko (% ; Ypsilandou; mains 6-13) The Old Mansion is popular for its reasonably priced hearty dishes. There s live music nightly in summer and on Friday and Saturday nights in winter. To Omorfo Tavernaki (% ; Olgas 1; mains 6-12) Smaller servings of homemade delights in a convivial restaurant adorned with antique oddments. The mezedhes plate ( 6) is especially good. Self-caterers will find a choice of supermarkets in Nafplio s new town, including Marinopoulos (cnr Syngrou & Flessa) and Atlantik (Bouboulinas 24). Drinking Despite being simply jammed with cafés and bars, there still doesn t seem to be enough of them in town to hold the throngs of trendy party animals who flock to Nafplio in summer. Most options are on Bouboulinas just cruise along until you find an image (and the latest décor) to your taste and a musical volume you can handle. Lathos (Vasileos Konstantinou 3; h7pm-late Wed-Mon) An alternative to the above in every respect, this quirky drinking hole is jam-packed with remote-controlled junkyard automata from moving tables to an arm clanging a cymbal. Depending on his mood, the DJ plays a haphazard mix of musical beats perfect for jiving with your surroundings. Shopping The alleyways of Nafplio s old town between Syntagmatos and the war museum are the places for browsing for clothing, jewellery, accessories and anything boutique oriented. To Enotio (% ; Staïkopoulou 40) Traditional and modern Greek shadow puppets are created and sold here. Prices start at 10. Nektar & Amvrosia (Nectar & Ambrosia; % ; Farmakopoulou 6) Nikos the honey man sells a delectable range of honey, produced using traditional methods. Sweet indeed. See boxed text, p186. Karonis (% ; Amalias 5) Wine enthusiasts can find a fine selection of wines from all over the country, especially Nemean reds. Museum of the Komboloi (% ; Staïkopoulou 25; adult/concession 3/ free;h9.30am-9pm Mon-Thu & Sun, to 9.30pm Fri & Sat) More of a shop than a museum, it sells komboloï (worry beads), evil-eye charms and amulets. Getting There & Away The KTEL Argolis bus station (% ; Syngrou 8) has buses to Athens ( 11.30, 2½ hours, hourly) via Corinth ( 5.50, 1½ hours), Argos ( 1.20, 30 minutes, half-hourly), Tolo ( 1.20, 15 minutes, hourly), Epidavros ( 2.15, 45 minutes, four daily), Mycenae ( 2.15, one hour, three daily), Kranidi ( 6.60, two hours, three daily Monday to Saturday) and Galatas ( 7, two hours, two daily Monday to Friday). Other destinations include Tripoli ( 4.05, 1½ hours, four daily Monday to Friday, two on Saturday and Sunday). Note: weekend schedules are often reduced. Getting Around For taxis call % or head to the rank on Syngrou. There are several car-rental places in town, so it pays to shop around. Avis (% /1; Bouboulinas 51) Euro Moto Rent (% ; eurokalk@otenet.gr; Polizoidou 8) Also rents bicycles and motorcycles. Staikos Tours (% ; Bouboulinas 50) A travel agency that uses a range of car outlets. AROUND NAFPLIO Tiryns Τίρυνθα Situated 4km from Nafplio, just to the east of the Nafplio Argos road, is the impressive acropolis of Tiryns (% ; adult/concession 3/2; %8.30am-7pm summer, 8.30am-3pm winter), an important Mycenaean acropolis and the apogee of Mycenaean architectural achievement, especially its massive walls. In parts, they are 7m thick and, according to mythology, were built by the Cyclopes. Tiryns shares equal billing on the World Heritage list with Mycenae, although its setting is less awe-inspiring. You ll need imagination to envisage its former glory, but the layout of some of the ruins is easy to make out, and there are few crowds. As yet, the site has no signs or descriptions; it s worth buying a guide book, such as Tiryns by Dr Alkestis Papademetriou ( 7), at the ticket office. While further PELOPONNESE

99 186 ARGOLIS Epidavros Book accommodation online at ARGOLIS Epidavros 187 PELOPONNESE NIKOS, THE (DESIGNER) HONEY MAN Bees have been integral to the life of Nikos Reppas. Since the age of three, his job in his family s long-running honey business was to smoke the bees out of their hives while his father collected the honey. Bees have been my family s work for 200 years, he boasts proudly. Now, he says (he takes a long drag on his hand-rolled cigarette and leans lazily forward to stir his strong espresso his fourth for the day), he has had another 37 years experience in all aspects of the honey industry from production to sales. Nikos owns and runs honey shop Nektar & Amvrosia (Nectar & Ambrosia; see p185 ) in the town of Nafplio. Nikos gets a buzz from his bees. He has 500 hives from which he gains 50,000kg of honey annually. He collects, jars and sells the honey to locals and tourists. Sometimes he adds extras such as walnuts or pistachios to the chemical-free, organic honey syrup. Nafplio s contemporary honey man is not your elderly labourer with calloused hands. This man doesn t drive a bakaziera (the miniature trucks with tray, quite common in villages), and his shop is far from a tin shed with jars. This guy sports designer shirts (that s when he s not wearing a T-shirt with a bee print) and his other passions include his two 1000cc motorbikes. His self-designed shop window features a huge wire hive dripping with giant bees and a beekeeper outfit (an all-white uniform which, apart from the long rubber boots, resembles an astronaut s attire). Inside, mirrored shelves hold lines of perfectly spaced jars. Nikos repeatedly stresses that Greece, especially Nafplio, is the best region in the world for producing honey. This area is away from citrus trees (these don t produce high-quality nectar) and there are no chemicals. This region has many wildflowers and herbs with excellent-quality nectar, plus thyme and sage. We take the bees to Tripoli so they can feed off the region s pine. Each flavour is special. But back to being the honey man. Nikos loves the variety in his work and the fact that there is no typical day. Full season (between March and October) is his busiest time. I get up early, open the hives, inspect the bees and see what work needs to be done. I come to the shop around 10am and return, sometimes, to the hives in the afternoon. He enjoys the ongoing learning process related to the complicated life of bees. You need to be around them all day in order to understand them at a basic level. And you need a lifetime to learn about their lives; these are like labyrinths. Each time Nikos collects the honey, he is stung at least 10 times. I like the stings they are merely honey, royal jelly and pollen and this is good for your health, he says. (Spoken like a true Greek.) Besides, he adds, bees are among the most intelligent and creative living creatures on earth. While Nikos currently has no children to whom he is passing on his knowledge, he is training up to 10 beekeepers in the traditional practices. It s very important that we keep this knowledge and tradition going in Greece. Our honey is like caviar top of its class. This is not only important for the Greek economy, but also, we want people to experience the best honey on earth! Nikos may be taking the tradition out of the honey men, but (thankfully) not the honey men out of the tradition. excavations continue, visitors are limited to exploring the Upper and Lower Citadels. Any Nafplio Argos bus can drop you outside the site. EPIDAVROS ΕΠIΔΑΥΡΟΣ In its day Epidavros (% ; admission 6; h8am-7.30pm summer, 7.30am-5pm winter), 30km east of Nafplio, was famed and revered as far away as Rome as a place of miraculous healing. Visitors came great distances to this sanctuary of Asclepius, god of medicine, to seek a cure for their ailments. Today visitors are more likely to flock to the site for its amazingly well-preserved theatre, which is still a venue during the Hellenic Festival ( opposite ) for classical Greek theatre (along with other more modern plays, opera and music), first performed here up to 2000 years ago. The site occupies a glorious setting amid pine-clad hills. Not surprisingly, Epidavros is protected under World Heritage listing. History Legend has it that Asclepius was the son of Apollo and Coronis. While giving birth to Asclepius, Coronis was struck by a thunder bolt and killed. Apollo took his son to Mt Pelion where the physician Chiron instructed the boy in the healing arts. Apollo was worshipped at Epidavros in Mycenaean and Archaic times, but by the 4th century BC he had been superseded by his son. Epidavros became acknowledged as the birthplace of Asclepius. Although the afflicted worshipped Asclepius at sanctuaries throughout Greece, the two most important were at Epidavros and on the island of Kos. The fame of the sanctuary spread, and when a plague raged in Rome, Livy and Ovid came to Epidavros to seek help. It is believed that licks from snakes were one of the curative practices at the sanctuary. Asclepius is normally shown with a serpent, which by renewing its skin symbolises rejuvenation. Other treatments provided at the sanctuary involved diet instruction, herbal medicines and occasionally even surgery. The sanctuary also served as an entertainment venue and every four years, during the Festival of Asclepieia, Epidavros hosted dramas and athletic competitions. Sights THEATRE Today it s the 3rd-century theatre, not the sanctuary, that pulls the crowds to Epidavros. It is one of the best-preserved classical Greek buildings, renowned for its amazing acoustics; a coin dropped in the centre can be heard from the highest seat. Built of limestone, the theatre seats up to 14,000 people. Its entrance is flanked by restored Corinthian pilasters. It s used for performances of ancient drama during the annual Hellenic Festival ( right ). SANCTUARY The ruins of the sanctuary are less crowded than the theatre. In the south is the huge katagogeion, a hostelry for pilgrims and patients. To the west is the large banquet hall in which the Romans built an odeum. It was here that the Festival of Asclepieia took place. Opposite is the stadium, venue for the festival s athletic competitions. To the north are the foundations of the Temple of Asclepius and next to them is the abaton. The therapies practised here seemed to have depended on the influence of the mind upon the body. It is believed that patients were given a pep talk by a priest on the powers of Asclepius, then put to sleep in the abaton to dream of a visitation by the god. The dream would hold the key to the healing process. East is the Sanctuary of Egyptian Gods, which indicates that the cult of Asclepius was an adaptation of the cult of Imhotep, worshipped in Egypt for his healing powers. To the west of the Temple of Asclepius are the remains of the tholos (built BC); the function of which is unknown. Set among the green foothills of Mt Arahneo, the air redolent with herbs and pine trees, it s easy to see how the sanctuary would have had a beneficial effect upon the ailing. Considering the state of Greece s current health system, perhaps the centre should be resurrected. MUSEUM The museum, between the sanctuary and the theatre, houses statues, stone inscriptions recording miraculous cures, surgical instruments, votive offerings and partial reconstructions of the sanctuary s onceelaborate tholos. There s not much in the way of written information but some of the statuary and the chunks of marble do hint at the sanctuary s former status. After the theatre, the tholos is considered to have been the site s most impressive building and fragments of beautiful, intricately carved reliefs from its ceiling are also displayed. Festivals & Events Epidavros Theatre stages performances to a changing programme (with both modern theatre and ancient Greek dramas) during the annual Hellenic Festival in July and August. Tickets can be bought in Epidavros at the site office (% ; h9am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Thu, 9.30am-9.30pm Fri & Sat), or from the Hellenic Festival box office in Athens ( p130 ). Prices vary according to seating, and student discounts are available. There are special buses from Athens and Nafplio. Sleeping & Eating Hotel Avaton (% ; fax ; s/d 35/55; pa) If you re planning an earlymorning visit to the site, this small, clean PELOPONNESE

100 188 ARKADIA Tripoli Book accommodation online at ARKADIA Tripoli 189 PELOPONNESE and modern hotel is the best accommodation option, just 1km away, at the junction of the road to Kranidi and the ancient theatre. There is a choice of restaurants on the main street of Ligourio. Getting There & Away There are buses from Nafplio to Epidavros ( 2.15, 45 minutes, four daily), and three buses daily to Athens from nearby Ligourio ( 10.80, 2½ hours). Buses depart from the main bus station. SOUTHWEST ARGOLIS Very few travellers take the time to venture down to the southwestern heel of the Argolis Peninsula, centred on the agricultural service town of Kranidi, located 90km southeast of Nafplio. The region is famous for its pomegranates, which appreciate the mild winter temperatures around here. These spectacular ruby-red fruits ripen in November. The small resorts of Porto Heli, 4km south of Kranidi, and Ermioni, 4km east of Kranidi, are both popular weekend escapes for Athenians. For travellers, they offer convenient connections to the Saronic Gulf islands of Hydra and Spetses. The Frachthi Cave (admission free), overlooking Kilada Bay 7km north of Kranidi, rates among the most important early sites in Europe. Excavations around here have revealed a history of continuous occupation from Upper Paleolithic to Late Neolithic times (25, BC), providing a perfect snapshot of the slow transformation from a hunter-gatherer society to a pastoralist society. The turn-off to the cave is signposted 6km north of Kranidi, just south of the village of Fourni. The road leads another 4km to a small pebble (and littered) beach. A sign painted on the rocks at the southern end of the beach points to a path that weaves 300m around the shoreline, taking you to the cave entrance. The cave is floodlit at night, creating a spectacular backdrop for diners at the fish restaurants at Kilada, on the southern side of the bay. Getting There & Away BUS There are bus services between Kranidi and Nafplio ( 6.60, two hours, three daily except Sunday), and local buses from Kranidi to Ermioni ( 1.20, 10 minutes, five daily) and Porto Heli ( 1.20, 10 minutes, four daily). HYDROFOIL There are at least four high-season hydrofoils (% , in Athens ; daily (with different companies) departing from Porto Heli to Piraeus ( 31.50, two hours) via Spetses ( 5, 10 minutes) and Hydra ( 11.50, 50 minutes), and four daily from Ermioni to Piraeus ( 25.50, two hours) via Hydra ( 7.50, 20 minutes). ARKADIA ΑΡΚΑΔIΑ The picturesque rural prefecture of Arkadia occupies much of the central Peloponnese. Its name evokes images of grassy meadows, forested mountains, gurgling streams and shady grottoes. It was a favourite haunt of Pan, who played his pipes, guarded herds and frolicked with nymphs in this sunny, bucolic idyll. Almost encircled by mountain ranges, Arkadia was remote enough in ancient times to remain largely untouched by the battles and intrigues of the rest of Greece, and was the only region of the Peloponnese not conquered by the Dorians. The region dotted with crumbling medieval villages, remote monasteries and Frankish castles is popular among outdoor-loving Greeks and, increasingly, like-minded tourists. It also has 100km or so of rugged and unspoilt coastline on the Argolic Gulf, running south from the pretty town of Kiveri to Leonidio. TRIPOLI ΤΡΙΠΟΛΗ pop 25,520 The violent recent history of Arkadia s capital, Tripoli (tree-po-lee), is in stark contrast with its peaceful rural surroundings. In 1821, during the War of Independence, the town was captured by Kolokotronis and its 10,000 Turkish inhabitants massacred. The Turks retook the town three years later, and burnt it to the ground before withdrawing in Tripoli itself is not a place where tourists tend to linger, but it s a major transport hub for the Peloponnese and hard to avoid if you re relying on public transport. Orientation Tripoli can seem a little bit confusing at first. The streets radiate out from the central square, Vasileos Georgiou, like an erratic spider s web. The main streets are Washington, which runs south from Vasileos Georgiou to Kalamata; Ethnikis Andistasis, which runs north from the square and becomes the road to Kalavryta; and Vasileos Georgiou, which runs east from the square to Kolokotroni. El Venizelou runs east from Kolokotroni, leading you to the Corinth road. The well-organised main KTEL Arkadia bus station is 1km west of Koloktroni, past El Venizelou and along the Argos Corinth road. It s just beyond the AB Supermarket. The city s other bus station is opposite the train station, about a 10-minute walk away, at the southeastern end of Lagopati, the street that runs behind the KTEL Arkadia bus station. Information Tripoli has branches of all the major banks on Koloktroni and Vasileos Georgiou. Lembekos ( Vasileos Georgiou) Sells English-language newspapers. Memories Lounge Net Café (% ; Dareiotou 10; per hr 2; h8am-late) Police (% ; OHE Ave) Out on the western edge of town, between the train station and the KTEL Arkadia bus station. Post office (cnr D Plapouta & Nikitara; h7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri) Tourist office At the time of research, there was no official tourist office; the Town Hall, which formerly housed the office, was currently under renovation. Best to check its status. Sights ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM The city s Archaeological Museum (% ; Evangelistrias 2; adult/concession 2/1; h8.30am- 3pm Tue-Sun) is clearly signposted off Vasileos Georgiou, behind Hotel Alex, and is well worth dropping into. It houses relics from the surrounding ancient sites of Megalopoli, Gortys, Lykosoura, Mantinea and Paliokastro, including some important prehistoric finds, such as Neolithic fertility figures and ornate storage jars, plus sculptures from Herodus Atticus. The little votive offerings from Arkadian shrines in the area are also interesting. Sleeping Hotel Alex (% ; Vasileos Georgiou A26; s/d/tr 45/70/90; ap) Centrally positioned, spacious rooms with TV represent good value. Hotel Anactoricon (% ; anaktorikon@ otenet.gr; Ethnikis Andistasis 48; s/d/tr 67/96/114; api) The pick of places in town for comfort and plush furnishings, this friendly, family-run boutique-style hotel is beyond the Town Hall. Eating Kapaki (% ; Kennenty 39; mains ;hlunch & dinner) Put the lid on your hunger at this tasteful, central and modern taverna. Dishes include lamb, pork and rooster casseroles. Taverna Piterou (% ; Kalavryton 11a; mains 6-9; hlunch & dinner) A bustling taverna nestling under the shade of vine trellises on Kalavrytou (the northern extension of Ethnikis Andistasis), beyond the park with the old steam train. The huge selection of tasty mains and accompanying side dishes includes rabbit stifadho (sweet stew cooked with tomato and onions), beef stew, codfish and even braids of lamb s intestines. The numerous supermarkets around town include a large Atlantik (% ; cnr Atlantis & Lagopati). Getting There & Away BUS The KTEL Arkadia bus station (% ; Kolokotroni) is the main bus terminal, 1km from the city centre. There are 13 buses daily to Athens ( 12.80, 2¼ hours) via Corinth Isthmus ( 7, one hour). There are also two buses daily west to Olympia ( 10.60, three hours) and Pyrgos ( 12.20, 3½ hours), and four east to Argos ( 5, one hour) and Nafplio ( 5, 1½ hours). Regional services include buses to Megalopoli ( 2.90, 40 minutes, 10 daily) and Stemnitsa ( 3.60, one hour, once daily Monday to Friday). There are also two daily services (one on Sunday) to Dimitsana ( 5.60, 1½ hours), Andritsena ( 6.80, 1½ hours) via Karitena ( 4.50), and Leonidio ( 7.80, 2½ hours). The bus stop (% ) on Lagopati handles departures to Achaïa, Lakonia and PELOPONNESE

101 190 ARKADIA Megalopoli Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at ARKADIA Central Arkadia 191 PELOPONNESE Messinia. Services include buses to Sparta ( 4.70, one hour, four daily), Kalamata ( 6.90, two hours, 10 daily), Kalavryta ( 8, 2¼ hours, one daily) and Patra ( 11.90, 3½ hours, two daily). TRAIN Tripoli lies on the Corinth Kalamata line. The section between Tripoli and Kalamata passes through some spectacular country and is a favourite with railway enthusiasts. At the time of research, this line was under repair. Although there are replacement buses, it s best to stick with KTEL. MEGALOPOLI ΜΕΓΑΛOΠΟΛΗ pop 5114 Despite its name, there s little left of Megalopoli (Great City) that reflects its former grandeur. It was founded in 371 BC as the capital of a united Arkadia and was nestled in a leafy valley; now the ruins lie near an enormous smoke-spewing power station that s fuelled by coal strip-mined from surrounding plains. Sadly, the government seems to have abandoned maintenance of Megalopoli s ruins, including the main tourist attraction, a magnificent ancient theatre (now closed); today the town merely acts as a transport hub on the main route from Tripoli to Kalamata and Pyrgos. Sleeping & Eating Most hotels in town are booked out long-term by power station workers. Booking ahead is advised. Hotel Paris (% ; Agiou Nikolaou 9; s/d/tr 30/40/50; a) Very basic 1960s-style place, but with clean rooms close to the central square, Polyvriou. It s signposted off Arheou Theatrou, the main road west to Karitena. There is a supermarket opposite Hotel Paris, and several cheap restaurants around the central square. Recommended: Estiatorio To Leontari (% ; Kolokotroni 15; mains 3-7; htue-sat) Estiatorio Ivi (% ; Arheou Theatrou 7; mains 3-7) Getting There & Away The bus station is about 25m from Hotel Paris. There are bus services to Athens ( 15.60, three hours, eight daily) via Tripoli ( 2.90, 40 minutes) and Kalamata ( 4.20, one hour), as well as to Andritsena ( 3.90, 1¼ hours, two daily) via Karitena. CENTRAL ARKADIA The area to the west of Tripoli is a tangle of medieval villages, precipitous ravines and narrow winding roads, woven into valleys of dense vegetation beneath the slopes of the Menalon Mountains. This is the heart of the Arkadia prefecture, an area with some of the most breathtaking scenery in the Peloponnese. The region is high above sea level and nights are chilly, even in summer. Snow is common in winter. Generally speaking you ll need your own transport, but the three most important villages Karitena, Stemnitsa and Dimitsana are within reach of Tripoli by public transport. Karitena Καρίταινα pop 271 High above the Megalopoli Andritsena road is the splendid medieval village of Karitena (kar-eet-eh-nah). A stepped path leads from the central square to the 13th-century Frankish castle, perched atop a massive rock. The castle was captured by Greek forces under Kolokotronis early in the War of Independence, and became a key stronghold as the war unfolded. Before the advent of the euro, Karitena was known as the home of the wonderful arched stone bridge over the River Alfios that adorned the old 5000 drachma note. The old bridge now sits beneath a large modern concrete bridge. ACTIVITIES Based in the village of Maratha (northwest of Karitena), Trekking Hellas of Arcadia (% ; offers various activities, including white-water rafting ( 52 to 80) on the nearby Lousios and Alfios Rivers, hot dogging in inflatable canoes ( 52) and hiking ( 20 to 50). Athens-based adventure specialist Alpin Club (% ; offers similar trips. Its Peloponnese base is on the main road, just north of the Alfios Bridge. Caution: river activities must not be taken lightly. At the time of research, six hikers drowned and a couple were still missing after they were swept into the Lousios River, whose banks had collapsed after heavy rain. SLEEPING & EATING Vrenthi Rooms (% ; d/tr 50/65) As one of the few places to stay, this attractive stone hotel could charge a bomb, but it doesn t. It s good value, save for a few gritty problems, including the odd blown light globe. The nearby Café Vrenthi doubles as reception for the rooms. Stavrodromi (% ; mains 5-10) Stavrodromi means crossroads, the location of this reliable option serving warm, filling meals if the village taverna is closed. It s down the hill at the junction (own transport recommended). GETTING THERE & AWAY There are two buses daily (one on Sunday) from Tripoli to/from Karitena ( 4.50, one hour). These may continue to Andritsena ( 2) check the schedule at Café Vrenthi. (Note: some buses arrive/depart from the crossroads, from where it s an arduous walk to the village.) Stemnitsa Στεμνίτσα pop 412 Stemnitsa, 15km north of Karitena, is a striking and beautiful village of stone houses and Byzantine churches. North of the village, signposts point the way to a monastery, Moni Agiou Ioannitou Prodromou. It s a 20-minute walk beyond the car park, but you ll need to ask around beforehand in the village for the key to see the 15th-century frescoes as monks are no longer there. From here, paths lead to other deserted monasteries, and also south along the riverbank to the site of ancient Gortys. The town boasts a small folk art museum, but check the sign for its irregular opening times. SLEEPING & EATING ompelleiko (% ; s/d/tr incl breakfast 70/80/90) Reaching new heights in design and location, this recently renovated house is perched behind the village and is the most original of all sleeping options. The hospitable English-speaking owner has converted her family home (dating from 1650) into a guesthouse in artistic and tasteful contemporary Greek style. You can even sleep in the former donkey basement. The breakfast room is especially tasteful. For directions, inquire at the sweet shop at the southern end of town; look for the B&B sign. Hotel Trikolonion (%in Athens ; d incl breakfast 132;i) A member of the Country Club group, the large, stonehewn Trikolonion offers a more predictable luxurious, lodge-style experience. The rooms feature dark-wood furnishings, muted colours and heavy fabrics. It also has a small spa, gym and sauna. Rates climb around 100% on Friday and Saturday. To 1821 (% , ; mains 6-9;hlunch & dinner Wed-Mon) Situated on the main street near the square, this welcoming taverna has tasteful décor, woven rush seats and an open fireplace. Its extensive menu features goat with oregano ( 9) and soups. GETTING THERE & AWAY There is one bus each weekday between Stemnitsa and Tripoli ( 3.60, one hour). Dimitsana Δημητσάνα pop 230 Built amphitheatrically on two hills at the beginning of the Lousios Gorge, Dimitsana (dih-mi-tsah-nah), 11km north of Stemnitsa, is a delightful medieval village. Despite its remoteness, the town played a significant role in the country s struggle for self-determination. Its Greek school, founded in 1764, was an important spawning ground for the ideas leading to the uprisings against the Turks. Its students included Bishop Germanos of Patra and Patriarch Gregory V, who was hanged by the Turks in retaliation for the massacre in Tripoli. The village also had a number of gunpowder factories and a branch of the secret Filiki Eteria (Friendly Society) where Greeks met to discuss the revolution. It s a sleepy village in low season, but on weekends and during summer the town springs to life as eager hikers and out-oftowners enjoy its ambience and surrounding walks. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Open-Air Water Power Museum It may sound of marginal interest but this excellent little museum (% ; adult 3; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon) offers an illuminating insight into the region s preindustrial past. It occupies the old Agios Yiannis mill complex 1.5km south of town (signposted), where a spring-fed stream once supplied power for a succession of mills spread down the hillside. A flour mill, a gunpowder mill PELOPONNESE

102 192 ARKADIA Kynouria Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at LAKONIA 193 PELOPONNESE and a fulling tub (for treating wool) have been restored to working order. There s also an old leather factory. The intelligent and imaginative explanations and subtitled videos (both in English) explain the processes of gunpowder and leather production. Hiking Hiking is a popular activity in these magnificent surroundings. There are some wonderful walks around Dimitsana, particularly along the Lousios River. The principal walks are outlined in Walker s Map of the River Lousios Valley, available at the Open-Air Water Power Museum. SLEEPING & EATING You ll see several signs for domatia in the middle of town ( Agias Kyriakis). Tsiapas Rooms to Rent (% ; d 50-60) These great-value rooms boast fridges and tea- and coffee-making facilities. The communal living room has a fireplace perfect for a cold evening. Signposted off Agias Kyriakis. Hotel H Teyois (% /5/6; s/d/tr 55/65/85) The plainer option, but the non-englishspeaking owners are praised by travellers for their Greek hospitality and decent home-style breakfasts. Set in the lower edge of the village look for the signs. Hotel Dimitsana (% ; hotel_dimits ana@yahoo.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast 99/129/150; p) Situated 1km south of the village on the road to Stemnitsa, this place is like a giant ski lodge, with puffy sofas, rich fabrics and an open fire. The comfortably appointed rooms have wonderful views over the Lousios Valley. There is little to distinguish the village s four tavernas all serve reasonable, if similar, fare, such as rooster in red wine and fasoladha (bean soup). GETTING THERE & AWAY There are buses from Tripoli to Dimitsana ( 5.60, 1½ hours, two daily) and once daily on weekdays from Dimitsana to Tripoli. KYNOURIA ΚΥΝΟΥΡIΑ Kynouria is the coastal region of Arkadia. It covers a narrow strip of territory that stretches south from the tiny village of Kiveri, 41km east of Tripoli, to Kosmas, perched high in the Parnonas Mountains. Much of the land is incredibly rugged, with a narrow coastal plain and very little fertile ground. In ancient times the region was contested by Argos and Sparta the Argives held sway in the north and the Spartans controlled the south. The easiest access is from Argos. Kiveri to Leonidio Κιβέρι προς Λεωνίδιο No more than a blip on the map, Kiveri is just south of where the main roads east from Tripoli and south from Argos meet. From here, the road hugs the coast for most of the 64km south to Leonidio, curving above a succession of tiny pebble-beached villages. The first town of consequence is Astros, perched in the hills 28km south of Argos. The main attraction around here is the Villa of Herodes Atticus, in the hills 4.5km from the turn-off to Tripoli (or 2.5km from central Astros). It was built in the 2nd century AD for the wealthy Roman founder of the celebrated Odeon of Herodes Atticus in Athens ( p115 ). This was his modest country retreat, spread out over a small plateau with views over the Argolic Gulf. Recent excavations have uncovered a stunning spread of more than 10,000 sq metres of mosaics. At the time of research they were being excavated and were fenced off. Apart from some magnificent coastal scenery, there s very little to see between Astros and the minor resort of Paralia Tyrou, 29km further south. Leonidio Λεωνίδιο pop 3224 Leonidio, 76km south of Argos, has a dramatic setting at the mouth of the Badron Gorge. Its tiny 25 Martiou is an archetypal, unspoilt, whitewashed Greek village square. Some of the older people around here still speak Tsakonika a highly distinctive dialect dating back to the time of ancient Sparta. There are some pleasant beaches to be found at the nearby seaside villages of Plaka and Poulithra. Plaka, 5km from Leonidio and the town s port, is no more than a cluster of buildings around a small square. The fertile alluvial river flats between Leonidio and the coast are intensively farmed. Leonidio is famous for its Tsakonian aubergines; each summer the town holds an annual Aubergine Festival. SLEEPING & EATING There are apartments for rent in town, but most people head for the beach at Plaka, where there are several domatia. Hotel Dionysos (% ; s/d 35/45) Plaka s only hotel, opposite the port, is a good spot to unwind and do nothing for a few days. Fishermen s Tavern (% ; fish per kg 35-45; hlunch & dinner Apr-Oct) The most modest (and the least contrived) of Plaka s eateries is this small place with a cosy terrace. Net the daily catch of Nikos, the understated son of the owner and also a fisherman. GETTING THERE & AWAY There are buses up and down the coast to/ from Argos ( 6.50, 2¼ hours, three daily) and Tripoli ( 7.80, 2½ hours, two daily). South of Leonidio The road south from Leonidio over the Parnonas Mountains to the village of Geraki in Lakonia, 48km away, is one of the most scenic in the Peloponnese. For the first 12km, the road snakes west up the Badron Gorge, climbing slowly away from the river until at times the water is no more than a speck of silver far below. The road then leaves the Badron and climbs rapidly towards Kosmas on dramatic hairpin bends (that make the Monaco circuit seem like an airstrip). Just before the top of the climb, there s a sealed road to the left leading to Moni Panagias Elonis, a remarkable little monastery perched precariously on the mountainside. Visitors are welcome provided they are suitably dressed. It s another 14km from the monastery to the peaceful, beautiful mountain village of Kosmas. There are several sleeping options here, but even if you don t stay overnight, it s worth taking a break beneath the huge plane trees in the square. After Kosmas the road descends more gently this time to the village of Geraki. A brief pause is warranted to visit the quaint churches and to see the locals at play in the busy plaza. From here you can head 40km west to Sparta, or continue south through Skala, Molai and Sikia, also in Lakonia, to Monemvasia. SLEEPING Filinouda Studios (% ; Central Square; s/d/tr 45/55/60) Watch the village world go by from one of these five studios (with cooking facilities), housed in a beautiful stone building. All share a pleasant communal living area with open fireplace. Run by those in the Ceramic Store on the main square. No English spoken. GETTING THERE & AWAY There is no public transport between Leonidio and Kosmas. LAKONIA ΛΑΚΩΝIΑ The region of Lakonia occupies almost identical boundaries to the powerful mountainskirted kingdom ruled by King Menelaus in Mycenaean times. It is home to legends, including the city of Sparta and the spectacular ruins of Mystras, the Byzantine Empire s last stronghold. Dominating the landscape are two massive mountain ranges, the Taÿgetos Mountains in the west and the Parnonas Mountains in the east. These taper away to create the central and eastern fingers of the Peloponnese. Between them lies the fertile valley of the Evrotas River, famous for its olives and oranges. The valley has been a focal point of human settlement since Neolithic times, and the location of the original Mycenaean Sparta, home of King Menelaus and his wife Helen, possessor of the face that launched a thousand ships. It was the abduction of Helen, by Paris of Troy, that sparked the Trojan Wars of Homer s Iliad. The site of this Mycenaean city has yet to be confirmed, but it is thought to have been at Pellana, 27km north of modern-day Sparta. The city was re-established in its present location by the Dorians at the start of the 1st millennium BC. Unfortunately, this ancient city lies beneath the modern town, leaving little to explore. The disappointment is more than compensated for, however, by the glorious Byzantine churches and monasteries at Mystras, just to the west in the foothills of the Taÿgetos Mountains. Another place not to miss is the evocative medieval town of Monemvasia, in the southeast. English speakers can thank the Lakonians for the word laconic (terse or concise), which many Lakonians are still. PELOPONNESE

103 194 LAKONIA Sparta Book accommodation online at LAKONIA Sparta 195 PELOPONNESE SPARTA INFORMATION Cosmos Club Internet Café... 1 C4 Laikos Books... 2 C4 National Bank of Greece... 3 B3 Tourist Police... 4 D3 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Ancient Theatre... 5 A2 Archaeological Museum... 6 C4 John Coumantarios Art Gallery... 7 B3 Plantanista 5 To Mystras (5km); Artemisia (28km); Kalamata (52km) Vrasidou Lykourgou Vizantiou Agidos Sparta Cathedral 9 Thermopylon Alkmanos Triakosion Lraklidon SPARTA ΣΠAΡΤΗ pop 14,817 The gridlike streets of modern Sparta (spartee) are in line with its ancient precursor s image of discipline, although fortunately, not deprivation. It is an easy-going, if unremarkable, town that lies at the heart of the Evrotas Valley, surrounded by olive and citrus groves, while the Taÿgetos Mountains, snowcapped until early June, provide a stunning backdrop to the west. The town was refounded in 1834 on the orders of King Otto, who had just made the decision to move his court from Nafplio to Athens. Mindful of history, Otto and his court felt that since Athens was to be rebuilt to 16 Aghsilaou Leonidou To Museum of the Olive & Greek Olive Oil (200m) To Acropolis (400m) 21 Gortsologlou King Leonidas Statue... 8 B2 Sanctuary of Leonidas... 9 A3 Soccer Stadium B2 SLEEPING Hotel Apollo B3 Hotel Cecil B3 Hotel Lakonia B3 Hotel Maniatis B3 Hotel Menelaion B Kleomvrotou Evagelistrias Palaeologou Kentriki Menelaou 11 Dioskouron To Geraki (36km); Corinth (145km); Athens (225km) 2 1 Odos Ton Archidamou Hilonos Ag Nikonos Chamaretou Theodoritou Orthonos Amalias Orthias Artemidos Oreas Elenis To Gythio (42km); Monemvasia (94km) m miles EATING AB Supermarket B3 Diethnes B3 Market B4 Restaurant Elysse B3 TRANSPORT Buses to Mystras C3 Buses to Mystras B4 KTEL Lakonias Bus Station D3 To Sanctuary of Artemis Orthia (200m) reflect its former glory, so too should Sparta. There s a pleasant enough square and a fascinating oil museum, and a few ruins attesting to its ancient pre-eminence. Most visitors are heading to the nearby site of Mystras, but it s worth spending at least a few hours here. Orientation Sparta s layout is as ordered as its ancient troops. With two main roads, Paleologou runs north south through the town and Lykourgou east west, intersecting in the middle of town. The central square, Kentriki, is a block southwest of the intersection. The main bus station is at the eastern end of Lykourgou Information Cosmos Club Internet Café (% ; Paleologou 34; per hr 2; h8am-10.30pm) Laikos Books (% ; Paleologou 62) Good for maps and foreign newspapers. National Bank of Greece (cnr Paleologou & Dioskouron) Has ATM. Post office (Archidamou 10; h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Tourist police (% ; Theodoritou 20) Sights EXPLORING ANCIENT SPARTA If the city of the Lacedaemonians were destroyed, and only its temples and the foundations of its buildings left, remote posterity would greatly doubt whether their power were ever equal to their renown. Thucydides, The Histories A wander around ancient Sparta s meagre ruins bears testimony to the accuracy of Thucydides prophecy. Head north along Paleologou to the King Leonidas statue, which stands belligerently in front of a soccer stadium. West of the stadium, signs point the way to the southern gate of the acropolis. Signs point left (west) through olive groves to the 2nd- or 3rd-century-BC ancient theatre, the site s most discernible ruin. You ll find a reconstructed plan of the theatre at the Restaurant Elysse. The main cobbled path leads north to the acropolis (some of which is fenced off), passing the Byzantine Church of Christ the Saviour on the way to the hill-top Sanctuary of Athena Halkioitou. Some of the most important finds in the town s archaeological museum were unearthed here. Alternatively, you can see and approach the theatre from here. There are impressive views of the snowcapped Taÿgetos Mountains. The history of the Sanctuary of Artemis Orthia, on the northeastern side of town, is more interesting than the site. Like most of the deities in Greek mythology, the goddess Artemis had many aspects, one of which was Artemis Orthia. In the earliest times this aspect of the goddess was honoured through human sacrifice. The Spartans gave this activity away for the slightly less gruesome business of flogging young boys in honour of the goddess. The museum houses a collection of clay masks used during ritual dances. The sanctuary is signposted at the junction of Odos Ton 118 and Orthias Artemidos. One of the other remaining remnants of ancient Sparta is the sanctuary of Leonidas, although in reality its provenance and purpose in ancient Sparta is unknown. ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Sparta s archaeological museum (% ; cnr Lykourgou & Agiou Nikonos; adult/concession 2/1; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) sits in a beautiful park setting with a fountain and an orange grove. It holds a few dusty artefacts from Sparta s illustrious past, including votive sickles that Spartan boys dedicated to Artemis Orthia, heads and torsos of various deities, a statue of the great King Leonidas, masks and grave stelae. It also has photographs and finds from Mycenaean chamber graves at Pellana, thought to be the Sparta of King Menelaus. MUSEUM OF THE OLIVE & GREEK OLIVE OIL This stunningly designed museum (% ; piop@piraeusbank.gr; Othonos Amalias 129; adult/ concession 2/1; h10am-6pm 1 Mar-15 Oct, 10am-5pm 16 Oct-18 Feb) shows and tells you everything you could want to know about the olive. The high-quality explanations in English trace the history of the olive from its first appearance in the Mediterranean to the modern day. There are some magnificent antique olive presses, as well as a series of working models that demonstrate changes in pressing technology. The downstairs café serves good coffee. JOHN COUMANTARIOS ART GALLERY While the permanent collection of 40 paintings in the John Coumantarios Art Gallery (% ; Paleologou 123; admission free; h9am-3pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) are being repaired, this quaint place houses temporary exhibitions from the National Art Galley of Athens. Sleeping The closest camping ground is in nearby Mystras ( p199 ). Hotel Lakonia (% ; Paleologou 89; s/d/tr incl breakfast 47/75/90) The 32 cutting-edge rooms in this new kid on the block are for the sleek geeks, and are far from Spartan. Two-tone chairs, spot lighting and portal access ( 5 per day) are a few of the mod cons. Let s hope the prices remain at this good-value rate. PELOPONNESE

104 196 LAKONIA Sparta Book accommodation online at LAKONIA Mystras 197 PELOPONNESE THE SPARTANS During the battle of Thermopylae in 480 BC, one of the most celebrated battles in history, a few hundred soldiers held an entire Persian army at bay and died to a man doing so. What kind of soldiers could display such selfless bravery? Spartan ones, of course. Admired and feared in equal measure, the Spartans were held in almost mythic awe by their fellow Greeks for their ferocious and self-sacrificing martial supremacy, marching into battle in a disciplined, lock-stepped phalanx, living (and very often dying) by the motto return with your shield or on it. They were the product of an almost unbelievably harsh ideology, which finds disturbing echoes in recent totalitarian regimes. Every Spartiate (or full citizen) was by definition a soldier, or hoplite, who began his training almost from birth. Poor recruits were weeded out early a citizen s committee decided which newborn babies did not pass muster (they would then be left on a mountain top to die). The surviving children weren t much better off, undergoing 13 years of training to foster supreme physical fitness from the age of seven, and suffering, among many other hardships, institutionalised beating competitions to toughen them up. All hoplites were bound to military service until the age of 60, lived in barracks until the age of 30 (even the married ones) and were obliged to eat at the phiditia (mess hall). Shame and often death awaited retreaters, cowards and those who generally didn t live up to their tough code of battle. But the Spartiates were the lucky ones. Helots, Sparta s slaves, had no rights at all and those suspected of any kind of misdemeanour were hunted and killed by Sparta s secret police. A measure of the contempt in which the Spartiates held their helots (and also a sign of their galloping paranoia) came after the Peloponnesian Wars (in which Sparta was the ultimate victor). Dwindling numbers of Spartiates meant that the lower orders had to fight as well. Asked by their helot masters to pick 2000 of their bravest, these fighting helots, who thought they were to be made full citizens, were then executed en masse. Although admired by some Greek thinkers, most notably Plato (albeit from the safety of an easygoing democracy), an authoritarian system that could motivate a body of men to sit calmly under a hail of arrows also necessarily stifled individual initiative and the introduction of new ideas. This rigidity and lack of innovation contributed, along with the exhausting Peloponnesian Wars, to the decline of Sparta, which did not quite know what to do with the dominance it achieved at the end of them. The battle of Leuctra in 371 BC was the first major defeat of the Spartans in open battle and marked the beginning of the collapse of their influence and power. Hotel Maniatis (% ; Paleologou 72-76; s/d/tr incl breakfast 65/100/130; a) These light and pleasant rooms have more designer shapes than a NYC-contemporary design exhibition, and the service is efficient. The upmarket Zeus restaurant (mains 5 to 13.90) is attached. Hotel Menelaion (% /5; Paleologou 91; s/d/tr 84/112/141; as) This place has one of the town s finest neoclassical façades. Beyond this, it has comfortable rooms, but plans to refurbish in the near future in line with its competitors. Breakfast costs 9. Also recommended: Hotel Apollo (% /2/3; fax ; Thermopylon 84; s/d/tr 35/55/65) A reasonable alternative close to the Cecil. Hotel Cecil (% ; fax ; Paleologou 125; s/d 40/55; a) The small, family-run Cecil is personable, spruce and a little dated. Worth it only if you prefer smaller places. Breakfast costs 5. Eating There are several restaurants along Paleologou, but no stand-out star. Spartans clearly eat at home before coming out in droves in the evening to lounge in the town s cafés. Diethnes (% ; Paleologou 105; mains 6-8) It s been going for 45 years (as has the décor, it seems), but it s a very reasonably priced, no-nonsense local favourite. Restaurant Elysse (% ; Paleologou 113; mains ) A popular place offering hearty home cooking, including a couple of Lakonian specialities, like bardouniotiko (chicken cooked with onions and feta) and arni horiatiki (lamb baked with bay leaves and cinnamon). Self-caterers will find a super-abundance of supermarkets in Sparta. AB Supermarket (cnr Thermopylon & Gortsologlou), opposite the Sparta Inn, is bigger and better stocked than most. There s also a fresh produce market (Kleomvrotou). Getting There & Away Sparta s well-organised KTEL Lakonia bus station (% ; cnr Lykourgou & Thivronos) has buses to Athens ( 16.80, 3¼ hours, 10 daily) via Corinth ( 10, two hours), Gythio ( 3.70, one hour, five daily), Neapoli ( 12.20, three hours, four daily), Tripoli ( 4.70, one hour, four daily), Geraki ( 3.50, 45 minutes, three daily) and Monemvasia ( 8.70, two hours, three daily). Travelling to Kalamata ( 4.40, one hour, two daily) involves changing buses at Artemisia ( 2.80, 40 minutes, two daily) on the Messinian side of the Langada Pass. Departures to the Mani peninsula include buses to Gerolimenas ( 8.90, 2¼ hours, three daily) via Areopoli ( 6, two hours) and a 9am service to the caves at Pyrgos Dirou, returning at 12.45pm (one way 6.90, 2¼ hours). There are also buses to Mystras ( 1.20, 30 minutes, 10 daily). You can catch these on their way out to Mystras at the stop next to the OTE building on Lykourgou, or at the stop on Leonidou. MYSTRAS ΜΥΣΤΡAΣ The captivating ruins of churches, libraries, strongholds and palaces in the fortress town of Mystras (miss-trahss), a World Heritage listed site, spill from a spur of the Taÿgetos 7km west of Sparta. The site is among the most important, historically speaking, in the Peloponnese. This is where the Byzantine Empire s richly artistic and intellectual culture made its last stand before an invading Ottoman army, almost 1000 years after its foundation. History The Frankish leader Guillaume de Villehardouin built the fortress in When the Byzantines won back the Morea from the Franks, Emperor Michael VIII Paleologus made Mystras its capital and seat of government. Settlers from the surrounding plains began to move here, seeking refuge from the invading Slavs. From this time, until Dimitrios surrendered to the Turks in 1460, a despot of Morea (usually a son or brother of the ruling Byzantine emperor) lived and reigned at Mystras. While the empire plunged into decline elsewhere, Mystras enjoyed a renaissance under the despots. Gemistos Plethon ( ) founded a school of humanistic philosophy here and his enlightened ideas, including the revival of the teachings of Plato and Pythagoras, attracted intellectuals from all corners of Byzantium. After the Turks occupied Mystras, Plethon s pupils moved to Rome and Florence, where they made a significant contribution to the Italian Renaissance. Art and architecture also flourished, as seen in the splendid buildings and frescoes of the town. Mystras declined under Turkish rule, but thrived again after the Venetians captured it in 1687 and developed a flourishing silk industry, the population swelling to 40,000. The Turks recaptured it in 1715 and from then on it was downhill all the way; the Russians burnt it in 1770, the Albanians in 1780 and Ibrahim Pasha torched what was left in By the time of independence it was a largely abandoned ruin. Much restoration has taken place since the 1950s (and continues to this day) and in 1989 it was declared a World Heritage Site. Sights EXPLORING THE SITE At least half a day is needed to do justice to the ruins of Mystras (% ; adult/concession 5/3; h8am-7.30pm summer, 8.30am-3pm winter). Wear sensible shoes and bring plenty of water. The site is divided into three sections the kastro (the fortress on the summit), the upper town (hora) and the lower town (kato hora). You can approach the ruins from either direction top to bottom or vice versa (both options are quite strenuous). If you have transport and start at the top and walk down, you ll need to return to your car at the end of your visit. An alternative is to catch a taxi to the top and walk down. KASTRO & UPPER TOWN From opposite the upper entrance ticket office, a path (signposted kastro ) leads up to the fortress. The fortress was built by the Franks and extended by the Turks. PELOPONNESE

105 198 LAKONIA Mystras Book accommodation online at LAKONIA Langada Pass 199 PELOPONNESE The path descends from the ticket office leading to Agia Sofia, which served as the palace church, and where some frescoes survive. Steps descend from here to a T-junction. A left turn leads to the Nafplio Gate. Near the gate, and closed for restoration at the time of research, is the huge Palace of Despots, a complex of several buildings constructed at different times. The 14th-century vaulted audience room, with a painted façade and ornate window frames, was the largest of the palace s buildings, but hundreds of years of neglect have robbed it of its former opulence. From the palace, a winding, cobbled path leads down to the Monemvasia Gate, the entrance to the lower town. MYSTRAS Upper Entrance Agia Sofia Kastro (621m) Nafplio Gate Aphentiko Small Palace Agios Nikolaos UPPER TOWN Palace of the Despots Monemvasia Gate LOWER TOWN Through the Monemvasia Gate, turn right for the well-preserved, 14th-century Convent of Pantanassa. This features a beautifully ornate stone-carved façade and is still maintained by nuns, Mystras only inhabitants. It s an elaborate, perfectly proportioned building never overstated. Exquisite, richly coloured, 15th-century frescoes are among the finest examples of late Byzantine art. Look out for the tiny stamped silver and gold votive offerings beneath the large icon of the Virgin. You ll find images of eyes, ears, legs, arms, breasts and even houses stamped onto these small tablets, depending on the (usually healthrelated) problems the faithful are hoping for supernatural help with. There is a wonderful Convent of Pantanassa Agios Theodoros Vrontokhion Monastery Taxiarhes Evangelistria LOWER TOWN Laskaris Mansion m miles House of Frangopoulos Vaulted Passage Monastery of Perivleptos Agios Hristoforos Agios Georgios Episcopal Palace Museum Marmara Fountain To Hotel Byzantion (2km); Nea Mystras (2km); Sparta (7km) Lower Entrance (Monemvasia Gate) Mitropolis (Cathedral of Agios Dimitrios) view of the pancake-flat and densely cultivated plain of Lakonia from the columned terrace on the northern façade. The nuns ask that, before entering, you cover bare legs with the cloths provided. The path continues down to the Monastery of Perivleptos (closed on weekends), built into a rock. Inside, the 14th-century frescoes, preserved virtually intact, equal those of Pantanassa. The church has a very high dome and in the centre is the Pantokrator (the Byzantine depiction of Christ as the universal, all-powerful ruler), surrounded by the apostles, and the Virgin flanked by two angels. As you continue down towards the Mitropolis, you will pass Agios Georgios, one of Mystras many private chapels. Further down, and above the path on the left, is the Laskaris Mansion, a typical Byzantine house. The Mitropolis (Cathedral of Agios Dimitrios) is a complex of buildings enclosed by a high wall. The original church was built in the 1200s, but was greatly altered in the 15th century. The church stands in an attractive courtyard surrounded by stoae and balconies. Its impressive ecclesiastical ornaments and furniture include a marble iconostasis, an intricately carved wooden throne and a marble slab in the floor in which features a two-headed eagle (symbol of Byzantium) located exactly on the site where Emperor Constantine XI was crowned. The church also has some fine frescoes. The adjoining museum houses fragments of sculpture and pottery taken from Mystras churches. Beyond the Mitropolis is the Vrontokhion Monastery. This was once the wealthiest monastery of Mystras, the focus of cultural activities and the burial place of the despots. Of its two churches, Agios Theodoros and Aphentiko, the latter is the most impressive, with striking frescoes. Outside the lower entrance to Mystras is a kantina (mobile café) selling snacks and drinks. Sleeping & Eating Camping Paleologio Mystras (% ; fax ; camp sites per adult/tent 7/4; hyear-round; s) This small, friendly camping ground, 2km west of Sparta, is on the road to Mystras. Buses to Mystras can drop you off there. Hotel Byzantion (% ; hotel.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast 40/60/65; as) Right in the centre of the modern village of Mystras is this small, appealing option, an alternative to sleeping in Sparta. There s a delightful garden and the bright rooms have balconies offering arresting valley or mountain views. It s about 1km from the site. There are also several domatia around the village, along with a couple of cafés and tavernas. Getting There & Away Frequent buses go to Mystras from Sparta ( 1.30, 30 minutes). A taxi from Sparta to Mystras lower entrance (Xenia Restaurant) costs 7 to 8, or 9 to 10 to the upper entrance. A cheaper option is to take a taxi (% ) from Mystra. LANGADA PASS ΟΡΕΙΝΗ ΔΙΑΒΑΣΗ ΛΑΓΚΑΔΑ The 59km Sparta Kalamata road is one of the most stunning routes in Greece, crossing the Taÿgetos Mountains by way of the Langada Pass. The climb begins in earnest at the village of Trypi, 9km west of Sparta, where the road enters the dramatic Langada Gorge. To the north of this gorge is the site where the ancient Spartans left babies too weak or deformed to become good soldiers to die (see boxed text, p196 ). From Trypi, the road follows the course of the Langada River before climbing sharply through a series of hairpin bends to emerge in a sheltered valley. This is a good spot to stop for a stroll among the plane trees along the river bank. The road then climbs steeply once more, to the high point of 1524m crossing the boundary from Lakonia into Messinia on the way. You can stop overnight here. The descent to Kalamata is equally dramatic. Travelling this route by bus involves changing buses at Artemisia, the closest Messinian settlement to the summit. Sleeping & Eating Pandoheio Canadas (% ; s/d/tr 20/28/29) This small guesthouse, 22km from Sparta, is perched on the upper slopes of the Taÿgetos Mountains at an altitude of 1250m. The rooms are basic but offer great mountain views. The restaurant (mains 3.50 to 7) is a major attraction, turning out delicious homemade treats such as pork sausages. Hotel Taÿgetos (% ; fax ; s/d/tr 30/40/46) The Taÿgetos has a superb location PELOPONNESE

106 200 LAKONIA Gefyra & Monemvasia Book accommodation online at LAKONIA Gefyra & Monemvasia 201 PELOPONNESE at the very top of the Langada Pass. It also boasts a good restaurant with specialities such as roasted goat, rooster with red wine and rabbit stifadho. It s 24km from Sparta. GEFYRA & MONEMVASIA ΓΕΦΥΡΑ & ΜΟΝΕΜΒΑΣΙΑ pop 8 Vast, imposing, spectacular Monemvasia (mo-nem-vah-see-ah) is the Greek equivalent to France s Mont Saint Michel. This perfect fortress is an iceberglike slab of rock moored off the coast, with sheer cliffs rising hundreds of feet from the sea, and a single highly defendable causeway. In summer Monemvasia (and its mainland counterpart Gefyra), 99km southeast of Sparta, brims with visitors, but the extraordinary visual impact of the medieval town and the delights of exploring it override the effects of mass tourism. Only eight people are permanent residents. The poet Yannis Ritsos was born and lived here for many years. From Gefyra, you can see little of Monemvasia. But cross the causeway and follow the road that curves around the side of the rock and you will come to the official entrance, a narrow tunnel in a massive fortifying wall. The tunnel is L-shaped, so the magical town is concealed until you emerge, blinking, on the other side. If you sleep at one of the many excellent guesthouses on the rock, surely one of the most atmospheric places to stay in Greece (and there aren t that many places in the world where you get the chance to sleep on a World Heritage listed site), you ll have many of the narrow cobbled streets and heart-stopping sea vistas to yourself. History The island of Monemvasia was part of the mainland until it was cut off by an earthquake in AD 375. Its name means single entry (moni single, emvasia entry), as there is only one way to the medieval town. During the 6th century barbarian incursions forced inhabitants of the surrounding area to retreat to this natural rock fortress. By the 13th century it had become the principal commercial centre of Byzantine Morea complementing Mystras, the spiritual centre. It was famous throughout Europe for its highly praised Malvasia-grape wine. The Franks, Venetians and Turks all invaded in the following centuries. During the War of Independence its Turkish inhabitants were massacred after their surrender, following a three-month siege. Orientation & Information All the practicalities are located in Gefyra. The main street is 23 Iouliou, which runs south around the coast from the causeway, while Spartis runs north up the coast and becomes the road to Molai. Malvasia Travel, just up from the causeway on Spartis, acts as the bus stop. The National Bank of Greece, with an ATM, and the post office (h7.30am- 2pm Mon-Fri) are opposite. The police (% ; Spartis 137) are in one of the few buildings in town with a street number. Sights MEDIEVAL TOWN You can find everything you want in this city except water. 18th-century Turkish traveller The narrow, cobbled main street is lined with souvenir shops and tavernas, flanked by winding stairways that weave between a complex network of stone houses with walled gardens and courtyards. The main street leads to the central square and the Cathedral of Christ in Chains, dating from the 13th century. Opposite is the Church of Agios Pavlos, built in 956. Further along the main street is the Church of Myrtidiotissa, virtually in ruins, but still with a small altar and a defiantly flickering candle. Overlooking the sea is the recently restored, whitewashed 16th-century Church of Panagia Hrysafitissa. The path to the fortress and the upper town is signposted up the steps to the left of the central square. The upper town is now a vast and fascinating jumbled ruin, except for the Church of Agia Sofia, which perches on the edge of a sheer cliff. MONEMVASIA ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM This small museum (% ; admission free; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun; a) displays a detailed map of Monemvasia, useful for orientating yourself. It also houses finds unearthed in the course of excavation and building around the old town. The star turn is the templon (chancel screen) from an 11th-century church near the sea gate. Other pieces of note include a marble door frame from the Church of Agia Sofia and plenty of fine ceramics. Sleeping There s no truly budget accommodation in Monemvasia itself but considering the location, some places offer excellent value. (You d probably pay small fortunes elsewhere around the Mediterranean for such dramatic scenery.) Many guesthouses occupy sympathetically converted medieval buildings with bags of character. If this place doesn t give you the urge to splurge, there are cheaper hotels and numerous domatia in Gefyra. BUDGET Hotel Akrogiali (% ; s/d with shower 35/45) Over on Gefyra, this basic but spotless hotel, next to the National Bank of Greece on Spartis, has the cheapest rooms in town. MIDRANGE & TOP END All of the following are on the rock itself (book ahead). A pocket torch and sensible shoes are a good option for those staying on cobbled, dimly lit Monemvasia. Prices of the competitive hotels are far from solid as a rock; they can alter drastically depending on their accommodation nemesis. The hotels are nearly identical boutique in manner, stylishly furnished in timber and muted materials throughout. Some rooms have balconies. Rooms for both the Malvasia Hotel and Hotel Byzantino are located in various locations in the old town (inquiries offices for both hotels are on the main street). Malvasia Hotel (% /63007; malvasia@ otenet.gr; s incl breakfast 45-65, d incl breakfast ; a) Easily the best value on Monemvasia (if you can believe its prices). Hotel Byzantino (% /351; hotelbyzantino@ yahoo.gr; s/d/tr 60/90/120; a) Also great value; rooms are a notch smarter. Try to get a room with sea-facing balconies. Breakfast costs 6. Hotel Lazareto (% ; lazaretohotel@yahoo.com; s 90, d ; a) Located outside the fortress walls, past the causeway and occupying the handsome stone buildings of a former quarantine hospital, the Lazareto is the most luxurious choice. The furnishings in the well-equipped rooms are stylishly muted. But watch your head the door frames are for little people. Breakfast is 6. Travellers report the hotel s terrific restaurant, Castellano, is open only in season. Monopati Rooms & Apartments (% ; ste 120, apt , cottage ) These delightful stone options ooze personality, as do the owners. Rates vary according to the number of people in each of the cosy studios or apartments. All are stylishly decorated to fill their quirky spaces. Kellia (% /951; kelliaht@yahoo.gr; d , tr ) A converted monasteryby-the-sea with stone-and-timber rooms (former cells), next to the Church of Panagia Hrysaphitissa. Lacks some of the personality of the other places. Eating Matoula (% ; main street, Monemvasia; mains ) The pick of the places in the old town. Its terrace, beneath vine trellises and overlooking the sea, is a great place to enjoy its selection of local delights, including dolmadhes ( 6.50), the original recipe of Matoula, the restaurant s matriach. Taverna Trata (% ; Gefyra; fish per kg 45-55) On the right immediately after you cross the causeway back to Gefyra. The hanging gulls and model yachts point to a nautical theme seafood is the recommendation here, but prices can be mega-tidal. Self-caterers will find most things at the Lefkakis supermarket just past the post office in Gefyra. Getting There & Away Buses leave from outside Malvasia Travel (% ), just up the causeway on Spartis; Malvasia also sells tickets. There are buses to Athens ( 25.40, 5½ hours, four daily) via Sparta ( 7.50, two hours), Tripoli and Corinth/Isthmus. Getting Around The medieval town of Monemvasia is inaccessible to cars and motorcycles, but these can cross the causeway. Parking is available along the narrow road skirting the rock, outside the old town. It s sometimes easier to park in Gefyra than risk the tight squeeze. A shuttle bus operates between the causeway and old Monemvasia (8am to midnight June to September, Christmas and Easter). PELOPONNESE

107 202 LAKONIA Neapoli Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at LAKONIA Neapoli 203 PELOPONNESE Car rental is available from Kypros Rent a Car (% ; houtris@otenet.gr). Turn right at the street after the National Bank of Greece. NEAPOLI ΝΕAΠΟΛΗ pop 2727 Neapoli (neh-ah-po-lih), 42km south of Monemvasia, lies close to the southern tip of the eastern prong of the Peloponnese. It s a functioning, if uninspiring, town, in spite of its location on a huge horseshoe bay. The western flank of the bay is formed by the small island of Elafonisi. The town is popular enough with local Greek holiday-makers to have several seafront hotels and domatia. Most other travellers come here only to catch a ferry to the island of Kythira, clearly visible across the bay. Sleeping & Eating Hotel Aivali (% ; Akti Voion 164; s/d 35/40; a) This small family hotel is ideally located right on the seafront, close to the ferry dock for Kythira. Like all the hotels in town, it s booked out during August. There are numerous lively ouzeries along the waterfront, serving the local speciality: delicious grilled octopus. Getting There & Away B U S KTEL (% ) has buses from Neapoli to Athens ( 29, three daily) via Sparta ( 12.20, three hours, three daily) and Molai ( 5.80, 1¼ hours). Molai is the place to change buses for Monemvasia. FERRY There are daily ferries from Neapoli to Diakofti on Kythira (per person/car 8.20/40, one hour). Tickets are sold at Dermatis Travel (% ), the first road to your left on the waterfront. (Leave plenty of time to find the place and buy the ticket.) Frequency varies depending on the season; count on at least two per day in July and August. GYTHIO ΓΥΘΕΙΟ pop 4489 Once the port of ancient Sparta, Gythio (yeethih-o) is the gateway to the Lakonian Mani. This attractive fishing town s bustling waterfront has pastel-coloured, 19th-century buildings, behind which crumbling old Turkish houses and scruffy streets clamber up a steep, wooded hill. Orientation Gythio is not too hard to figure out. Most restaurants and cafés are along the seafront on Akti Vasileos Pavlou. The bus station is at the northeastern end, next to the small triangular park known as the Perivolaki (meaning treefilled ). Behind this is the main square, Panagiotou Venetzanaki. The local shopping area is Ermou, lined with old-fashioned street lamps and the main approach to/from town. The square at the southwestern end of Akti Vasileos Pavlou is Mavromihali, hub of the old quarter of Marathonisi. The ferry quay is situated opposite this square. Beyond it the waterfront road becomes Kranais, which leads south to the road to Areopoli. A causeway leads out to Marathonisi Islet at the southern edge of town. Information EOT (%/fax ; Vasileos Georgiou 20; h8am- 2.30pm Mon-Fri) This is the information equivalent of Monty Python s famous cheese-free cheese shop: remarkably information-free, even by EOT s lamentable standards. Hassanakos Bookstore (% ; Akti Vasileos Pavlou 39) Also stocks international newspapers. Internet Jolly Café (cnr Dirou & Grigoraki; per hr 2.50) One block from the bus station. Kostas Vretto s Antiquities Shop (Vassileos Pavlou 25) Not official information per se, but this philosopherpoet-man-of-the-world is well worth dropping into for a visit. Police (% ; Akti Vasileos Pavlou) Post office (cnr Ermou & Arheou Theatrou; h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Sights & Activities MARATHONISI ISLET According to mythology, tranquil pine-shaded Marathonisi is ancient Cranae, where Paris (prince of Troy) and Helen (wife of Menelaus) consummated the affair that sparked the Trojan Wars. The 18th-century Tzanetakis Grigorakis tower at the centre of the island houses a small Museum of Mani History (admission 1.50; h8am-2pm), which relates Maniot history through the eyes of European travellers who visited the region between the 15th and 19th centuries. The architecturally minded will find an absorbing collection of plans of the Maniot tower and castle upstairs. ANCIENT THEATRE Gythio s small but well-preserved ancient theatre is next to an army camp on the northern edge of town. It s signposted off Ermou, along Arheou Theatrou. (Turn right after the post office.) You can scramble up the hill behind the theatre to get to the ancient acropolis, now heavily overgrown. Most of ancient Gythio lies beneath the nearby Lakonian Gulf. BEACHES There s safe swimming along the 6km of sandy beaches that extend from the village of Mavrovouni, 2km south of Gythio. Sleeping There are many domatia signs along the waterfront. Camping Meltemi (% ; meltemi.gr; camp sites per adult/tent/car 5.50/4.50/3.50; hapr-oct) Very well organised and the pick of the three camping grounds at Mavrovouni. Three kilometres southwest of Gythio, it s right behind the beach and sites are set among 3000 well-tended olive trees. There are also bungalows with kitchen, air-con and TV ( 40 to 55). Buses to Areopoli stop outside. Xenia Karlaftis Rooms to Rent (% , ; s/d/tr 25/35/40) The most hostel-style place in town, with basic rooms and ideally situated opposite Marathonisi. The communal kitchen area upstairs has a fridge and small stove for making tea and coffee. Aktion Apartments (% ; info@alkyon -rooms.gz; Mavrovouni beach; d 35; a) If you want a beach setting, these smart and modern apartments are the best value at Mavrovouni (2km south of Gythio) and are equipped with small kitchenettes. Taxis to/from Gythio cost 4. Saga Pension (% ; Kranais; d 50; a) This is a good-value (saga-free!), comfortable place with balconies. It s 150m from the port, overlooking Marathonisi Islet. The upmarket Saga Restaurant is below. Matina s (% ; d/tr 50/60) A great location, right in the heart of town, this budget diamond is appropriately above the town s jewellery shop. Matina speaks no English, but is welcoming and runs a clean and comfortable abode. Eating Seafood is the obvious choice, and the waterfront is lined with numerous fish tavernas, especially on Kranais, where tourists walk the gauntlet of waiters touting for custom. Taverna Petakou (% ; mains 3-7) This no-frills place is a favourite with locals. The day s menu is written down in an exercise book in Greek. It may include a hearty fish soup, which comes with a large chunk of bread on the side. Beside the stadium on Xanthaki. Taverna O Potis (% ; mains , fish per kg 47) The model sea craft hanging from the ceiling of this new place reflect its ship-shape condition. Spotless kitchen, clean interior and generous helpings that locals flock aboard for. The house red is a bit like a massive ocean swell, but it s well worth the walk to the far end of the promenade, opposite Maronisi Islet. Saga Pension (% ; Kranais; mains 6-9, fish per kg 40-60; hlunch & dinner; a) Large, stylish with white cloths and fancy chairs, this serves top-notch eating options. Psarotaverna I Gonia (% ; mains 6-10, fish per kg 30-70) This is your no-nonsense corner pub-cum-restaurant popular with locals wanting bright lights and action. Fortunately, this extends to the kitchen where everything from excellent riganada (rusk bread with feta, tomato and oil) to cod fish with garlic ( 7.50) is whipped up. For self-catering, we recommended supermarkets Kourtakis (Irakleos), around the corner from the bus station, and Karagiannis (cnr Vasileos Georgiou & Orestou). Getting There & Away BUS The KTEL Lakonia bus station (% ; cnr Vasileos Georgiou & Evrikleos) is found northwest along the waterfront. Services run north to Athens ( 22.70, four hours, four daily) or via Sparta ( 3.70, one hour) and Tripoli; and south to Areopoli ( 2.30, 30 minutes, four daily), Gerolimenas ( 5.20, 1¼ hours, three daily), the Diros Caves ( 3.20, one hour, one daily) and Vathia ( 5.90, 1½ hours, three weekly). Helpful George will explain the best way to see Mani from Gythio (return) in one day. Getting to Kalamata can be fiddly; it involves taking onward connections from either Itilo ( 2.30, 45 minutes) or Sparta. There are only two buses daily (5am and 1pm) to Itilo (the 1pm bus may require a change at Areopoli). PELOPONNESE

108 204 THE MANI Lakonian Mani Book accommodation online at THE MANI Lakonian Mani 205 PELOPONNESE FERRY ANEN Lines ( has three weekly ferries to Kissamos-Kastelli on Crete ( 21.40, seven hours), via Kythira ( 9.90, 2½ hours) and Antikythira ( 15.80, four hours), from July to early September, with two services weekly in winter. Check the ever-changing schedule with Rozakis Travel (% ; rosakigy@otenet.gr), on the waterfront near Mavromihali. Getting Around For car rental, contact Rozakis Travel (% ; rosakigy@otenet.gr). Mopeds and scooters are available from Moto Makis (% ; Kranais). The town taxi rank (% ) is opposite the bus station. THE MANI Η ΜAΝΗ The Mani, the region covering the central peninsula in the south of the Peloponnese, is a wild, rugged place. Greeks from elsewhere will tell you, so are its people. Such was the formidable reputation of the inhabitants of the remote inner Mani that many would-be occupiers opted in the end to leave them alone. For centuries the Maniots were a law unto themselves, renowned for their fierce independence, resentment of attempts to govern them and for their bitter, spectacularly murderous internal feuds. Dotted around the territory particularly in the inner Mani you ll find bizarre tower settlements that were built as refuges during clan wars from the 17th century onwards. Thankfully these feuds, some of which took entire armies to halt, are long forgotten and the Maniots are as friendly and hospitable as Greeks elsewhere. The architecture lives on, however, and buildings continue to adhere to a stone, albeit more user-friendly, Maniot style. It s worth including the remote region in your itinerary. The steep tumbling skirts of the Taÿgetos Mountains (threaded with wonderful walking trails) and the tiny coves and ports nestling beside them make for some memorably dramatic scenery. As well as the towers, there are magnificent churches, and caves, including the touristy Diros Caves. The Mani is generally divided into the Messinian Mani (or outer Mani) and the Lakonian (or inner) Mani. The Messinian Mani starts southeast of Kalamata and runs south between the coast and the Taÿgetos Mountains, while the Lakonian Mani covers the rest of the peninsula south of Itilo. Anyone visiting the region should definitely arm themselves with a copy of Patrick Leigh Fermour s Mani, a vivid and erudite account of the area (he loved the region so much he settled here). Keen explorers should ask at local shops for Inside The Mani: A Walking Guide by Mat Dean, and The Mani by Bob Barrow and Mat Dean, both Stoupa residents. The books are full of walking and information gems about the region s villages, towers and churches. Also worth reading is Deep into Mani by Eliopoulis and Greenhold. History The people of the Mani regard themselves as direct descendants of the Spartans. After the decline of Sparta, citizens loyal to the principles of Lycurgus (founder of Sparta s constitution) chose to withdraw to the mountains rather than serve under foreign masters. Later, refugees from occupying powers joined these people, who became known as Maniots, from the Greek word mania. The Maniots claim they are the only Greeks not to have succumbed to foreign invasions. This may be somewhat exaggerated but the Maniots have always enjoyed a certain autonomy and a distinctive lifestyle. Until independence the Maniots lived in clans led by chieftains. Fertile land was so scarce that it was fiercely fought over. Blood feuds were a way of life and families constructed towers as refuges. The Turks failed to subdue the Maniots, who eagerly participated in the War of Independence. But, after 1834, although reluctant to relinquish their independence, they became part of the new kingdom. LAKONIAN MANI Grey rock, mottled with defiant clumps of green scrub, characterises the bleak mountains of inner Mani. Cultivatable land is at a premium, and supports little more than a few stunted olives and figs. The wild flowers that cloak the valleys in spring exhibit nature s resilience by sprouting from the rocks. The indented coast s sheer cliffs plunge into the sea, and rocky outcrops shelter pebbled beaches. This wild and barren landscape is broken only by austere and imposing stone towers, often abandoned (some being restored), still standing sentinel over the region. With your own vehicle you can explore the Mani by the loop road that runs down the west coast from the main town, Areopoli, to Gerolimenas, and return via the east coast (or vice versa). Public transport is effectively limited to the west coast. Areopoli Αρεόπολη pop 774 Areopoli (ah-reh-o-po-lih), capital of the Mani, is aptly named after Ares, the god of war. Dominating the main square, Athanaton, is a statue of Petrobey Mavromihalis, who proclaimed the Maniot insurrection against the Turks. Konstantinos and Georgos Mavromihalis ( ), who assassinated Kapodistrias, belonged to the same family. The town retains many other reminders of its rumbustious past. ORIENTATION & INFORMATION The town is split into two parts: the new upper town, around Athanaton, and the old lower town, around 17 Martiou. The two squares are linked by a main lane (formerly Kapetan Matapan but no longer officially referred to). There is no tourist office or tourist police. Konstantinakos (% ; Athanaton) Foreign newspapers and a small selection of books are available here. National Bank of Greece (Petrobey Mavromihali; h8am-1pm Mon-Thu, to 1.30pm Fri Aug, 8am-1pm Tue & Thu Sep-Jul) The only bank in town, with an ATM outside. Post office (Petrobey Mavromihali; h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) At the northern edge of town. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES There are some fine examples of Maniot architecture to be found in the narrow alleyways surrounding 17 Martiou. They start with the 18th-century Church of Taxiarhes on the southern side of the square. Its four-storey bell tower marks it as the most important of the town s many churches. Look out for the extremely well-preserved relief carvings above the main door. The much older Church of Agios Ioannis, on the southern edge of the old town, contains a series of frescoes relating the life of Jesus. It was built by the Mavromihalis family. There are numerous examples of tower houses, although some are in very poor condition. The towers in the best condition are those that have been converted into accommodation. The Mavromihalis Tower (Tzani Tzanaki), which is south of 17 Martiou, was once the mightiest tower in town, but now it stands sadly derelict. Walking is superlative in the area and until now, a well-kept secret. A board in the main square outlines some walks with corresponding signs in the region, although cynics say that this was an overenthusiastic municipality project and the actual tracks are not as clear as they should be. Experienced hikers should have no problem with compasses and equipment. Amateurs or walkers who prefer the company of small groups of people can join knowledgeable British expat and walking and cultural guide, Anna Butcher (% ; asimi.ab@virgin.net). Her day walks, with full guiding, cost 45. Longer (and more pricey) hikes are available. SLEEPING Budget Hotel Kouris (% ; fax ; Athanaton; s/d 40/50) Out of place against the Maniot towers, this concrete block is characterless, but a useful fallback. Tsimova Rooms (% ; Kapetan Matapan; s 50-55, d 60, apt 70) You might have to battle your way through the cuddly toys and photos in this homey place, a renovated tower located behind the Church of Taxiarhes. Not to forget the weaponry collection of an ex-partisan, ranging from daggers to cast-iron cannons. Rooms are overpriced; the two-room apartment with kitchen is better value. Midrange & Top End Hotel Trapela (% ; d/tr 80/80;a) This small 12-room place is promoted as a new traditional hotel, as indeed it is. The comfortable wood and stone rooms have tasteful muted colours and, with exception of the large windows, the design is along Maniot lines. Londas Pension (% ; londas@otenet.gr; d/tr incl breakfast 80/110) This place is the undisputed king of the castle: stylish rooms housed in a 200-year-old tower, signposted right off Kapetan Matapan at the Church of Taxiarhes. PELOPONNESE

109 206 THE MANI Lakonian Mani Book accommodation online at THE MANI Lakonian Mani 207 PELOPONNESE The whitewashed stone rooms are decorated with taste in an antique and modern fusion. EATING Nicola s Corner Taverna (% ; Athanaton; mains 5-8) Ignore the menu this popular spot on the central square displays a good choice of tasty taverna staples that change daily. Barba Petros (% ; mains 5-9) This is primarily a psistaria, but it also has daily specials like eggplant-and-potato pie 5 for a huge serving. On the way down to the church square on the left. For self-caterers, the small Koilakos supermarket (% ) is near Athanaton. GETTING THERE & AWAY The bus station (% ; Athanaton) is next to Europa Grill. There are buses to Gythio ( 2.30, 30 minutes, four daily), which proceed to Athens ( 22.70), Itilo ( 1.20, 20 minutes, three daily Monday to Saturday, no service Sunday) via Limeni, Gerolimenas ( 2.90, 45 minutes), the Diros Caves ( 1.20, 15 minutes, one daily), Lagia ( 3.20, 40 minutes, one daily) and Vathia ( 3.60, one hour, two daily). Limeni Λιμένι The tiny village of Limeni is 3km north of Areopoli on the southern flank of beautiful Limeni Bay. In a glorious location set out over water, fish lovers will get hooked on Takis (% ; fish per kg 45-60; hlunch & dinner); it s the place for fish in the area. Bookings advised. High on the hill, on the south side of Limeni Bay is Limeni Village (% ; s/d incl breakfast 80/120; pas), a complex of replica Maniot towers with spectacular vistas of the bay, hills and village. Restaurant attached. Itilo & Nea Itilo Οίτυλο & Νέο Οίτυλο pop 331 Itilo (eet-ih-lo), 11km north of Areopoli, was the medieval capital of the Mani. To travel between Lakonian and Messinian Mani, you must change buses at Itilo. The village is a tranquil backwater, but shows signs of recent renovation, and is perched on the northern edge of a deep ravine traditionally regarded as the border between outer and inner Mani. Above the ravine is the massive 17th-century Castle of Kelefa, from which the Turks attempted to constrain the Maniots. It s on a hill above the road from Nea Itilo. Nearby, the Monastery of Dekoulou has colourful frescoes in its church. Nea Itilo, 4km away, lies at the back of secluded Limeni Bay. There are three buses daily to Areopoli ( 1.50, 20 minutes) and Kalamata ( 6, 2¼ hours). Areopoli Itilo buses go via Nea Itilo and Limeni. Diros Caves Σπήλαιο Διρού These extraordinary caves (% ; adult/ concession incl tour 12/7; h8.30am-5.30pm Jun-Sep, 8.30am-3pm Oct-May) are 11km south of Areopoli, near the village of Pyrgos Dirou notable for its towers (signposted to the right off the road down to the caves). The natural entrance to the caves is on the beach and locals like to believe the legend that they extend as far north as Sparta (speleologists have so far estimated the caves to be 14km; tourists enter to 1.5km). They were inhabited in Neolithic times, but were abandoned after an earthquake in 4 BC and weren t rediscovered until Systematic exploration began in The caves are famous for their stalactites and stalagmites, which have fittingly poetic names such as the Palm Forest, Crystal Lily and the Three Wise Men. Unfortunately, the 25-minute guided tour through the caves is disappointingly brief and doesn t justify the admission charge. It covers only the lake section, and bypasses the most spectacular formations of the dry area, currently closed for research. The nearby Neolithic Museum (% ; adult/concession 2/1; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) houses items found in an adjoining Neolithic Cave, the Alepotrypa Cave. Entrance to the museum includes entrance to this cave. This was used to store crops, and housed workshops, living areas and formal burial grounds. The inhabitants died as a result of the earthquake of 4 BC, after the cave was sealed by boulders. Pyrgos Dirou to Gerolimenas Πύργος Διρού προς Γερολιμένας Journeying south down Mani s west coast from Pyrgos Dirou to Gerolimenas, the barren mountain landscape is broken only by deserted settlements with mighty towers. A right turn 9km south of Pyrgos Dirou leads down to the Bay of Mezapos, sheltered to the east by the frying pan-shaped Tigani peninsula. The ruins on the peninsula are those of the Castle of Maina, built by the Frankish leader Guillaume de Villehardouin in 1248, and subsequently adapted by the Byzantines. Kita, 13km south of Pyrgos Dirou, positively bristles with the ruins of war towers and fortified houses. It was the setting for the last great interfamily feud recorded in the Mani, which erupted in 1870 and required the intervention of the army, complete with artillery, to force a truce. Gerolimenas Γερολιμένας pop 55 Gerolimenas (yeh-ro-lih-meh-nahss) is a tranquil fishing village built around a small, sheltered bay at the southwestern tip of the peninsula. It s the perfect place for scenic seclusion. SLEEPING & EATING Hotel Akrogiali (% ; -hotels.com; s 25-30, d 40-50, tr 50-70, 2-person apt 50-70, 3-person apt 60-80, 4-person apt ; a) The Akrogiali has a great setting overlooking the bay on the way into town. It has as many prices as it does rooms, which range from OK doubles in the traditional hotel building to a tasteful new stone wing, and apartments nearby. Breakfast costs 5. Hotel Akrotenaritis (% ; s 60-65, d 75-80, tr 85; a) The rough outside doesn t reflect the cosy inside of this ski lodge style place with its wooden features, marble floors and smart fixtures. The front room with balcony and view of the harbour is the bargain of Mani. There are cheaper rooms in an older building nearby ( 40). ohotel Kirimai (% ; d , ste 300; pas) The luxurious Kirimai is one of Greek s most swish hospitality experiences. It sits in an idyllic setting at the far southern end of the harbour. The stone-floored, timberbeamed rooms are individually finished with décor-magazine flair. Its restaurant is open to nonguests. It s worth splurging here; the restaurant s head chef was Greek Chef of the Year The kitchen creates traditional dishes (mains 16 to 25) with a contemporary flair, such as caramelised octopus. Bookings recommended. There is a small supermarket on the promenade, and a couple of cafés and tavernas. GETTING THERE & AWAY There are three buses daily from Gerolimenas to Areopoli ( 3, 45 minutes) and on to Athens ( 24), Gythio ( 6, 1¼ hours) and Sparta ( 9, 2¼ hours). The stop is outside Hotel Akrotenaritis; tickets are bought on board. Gerolimenas to Porto Kagio Γερολιμένας προς Πόρτο Κάγιο South of Gerolimenas, the road continues 4km to the small village of Alika, where it divides. One road leads across the mountains to the east coast, and the other goes south to Vathia and Porto Kagio. The southern road follows the coast, passing pebbly beaches. It then climbs steeply inland to Vathia, t h e most dramatic of the traditional Mani villages, comprising a cluster of closely packed tower houses perched on a rocky spur. It s well worth stopping to explore. A turn-off to the right 9km south of Alika leads to Marmari, with its two sandy beaches, while the main road cuts across the peninsula to the tiny east-coast fishing village of Porto Kagio, set on a perfect horseshoe bay. The village s two competing accommodation options are in as remote a place you ll find anywhere on the Peloponnese. Akroteri Domatia (% ; -kagio.com; Porto Kagio; d 70-80, tr 100) is the type of place you ll book into spontaneously that is, if there s availability. Its large rooms with balconies overlook the bay and the setting is blessed (speaking of which, there s a great walk from here to the peninsula to a small church). Owner Nikos also runs boat trips. The above (former) monopoly is no longer rock-solid. Enter Hotel Psamathous (% ; d/tr incl breakfast 70/90; a), this new Flinstones-style (modern Maniot) place owned by the crowd at Porto Taverna. Set back from the waterfront, it has stone platform beds, mezzanines and a nearly-butnot-quite-there designer touch. Your next-hardest decision is which of the three fish waterfront tavernas to eat at. Prices are much the same for all (mains 5 to 14, fish per kg 50 to 60). East Coast The east coast is even more rugged and barren than the west. The main town is Lagia, 12km northeast of the Alika turn-off. Perched some 400m above sea level, it was once the chief town of the southeastern Mani. Although PELOPONNESE

110 208 THE MANI Messinian Mani Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at THE MANI Messinian Mani 209 PELOPONNESE many of its towers are now derelict, it remains a formidable-looking place, especially when approached from Alika. From Lagia, the road winds down with spectacular views of the little fishing harbour of Agios Kyprianos a short diversion from the main road. The next village is Kokala, a busy place with two pebbled beaches. The best beach is further north at Nyfi, where a turn-off to the right leads to sheltered Alipa. Continuing north, a turn-off beyond Flomohori descends to Kotronas, while the main road cuts back across the peninsula to Areopoli. There are a couple of seasonal hotels in Kokala and Kotronas, but nothing worth stopping for. Public transport is limited to a daily bus service between Areopoli and Lagia ( 3.20, 40 minutes). MESSINIAN MANI The Messinian Mani, or outer Mani, lies to the north of its Lakonian counterpart, sandwiched between the Taÿgetos Mountains and the west coast of the Mani peninsula. Kalamata lies at the northern end of the peninsula. The rugged coast is scattered with small coves and beaches, and backed by mountains that remain snowcapped until late May. There are glorious views and hiking opportunities. Stoupa Στούπα pop 625 The former fishing village of Stoupa, 10km south of Kardamyli, is an upmarket resort teetering on the verge of overdevelopment, and billed as a place for discriminating (mainly British) package tourists. Although not as picturesque as Kardamyli, it does have two lovely sandy beaches. Celebrated author Nikos Kazantzakis lived here for a while and based the protagonist of his novel Zorba the Greek on Alexis Zorbas, a coal mine supervisor in Pastrova, near Stoupa. Useful for walkers is Walks in the Stoupa Area by Lance Chilton, available from travel agencies. ORIENTATION & INFORMATION Stoupa is 1km west of the main Areopoli Kalamata road, connected by roads both north and south of town. Both roads lead to the larger of Stoupa s main beaches a crescent of golden sand. Stoupa s amenities have yet to catch up with its development. There is no tourist office, and most travel agencies will reliably change money and organise car rental. Recommended agencies include Doufexis Travel (% ; doufexis@kal.forthnet.gr) and Thomeas Travel (% ; On the coast road behind the main beach, Katerina s supermarket (% ) doubles as the post office; it also changes money and sells phonecards. SLEEPING & EATING Stoupa s growing band of pensions and custom-built domatia tend to be block booked by package-tour operators. Doufexis Travel (% ; doufexis@kal.forthnet.gr) may know of vacancies. Hotel Apartments Maistrali (% ; maistreli@otenet.gr; 2-person studio 60; a) The Maistreli is comfortable, clean and about 100m back from the beach, with a small garden. Hotel Lefktron (% ; info@lefktron-hotel.gr; s/d incl breakfast 87/104; as) Signposted off the southern approach road to Stoupa, this is a comfortable modern hotel 150m from the beach. The rooms have fridge and air-con, satellite TV and balconies. Dolcini (% ) Chocaholics will love this pastry shop it s almost worth coming to Stoupa for this place alone. Taverna Akrogiali (% ; mains ) This taverna has a top location at the southern end of the beach, and an extensive menu that s strong on seafood (platters for 10) and local dishes such as rabbit or meatballs. Voula s Yesterday & Today (% ; mains ; hdinner) Voula and her friendly staff serve a full menu, traditional foods from a bygone era. There s lamb in the oven ( 10), smoked pork with pesto and mozarella ( 12.50), and homemade pies (from 4.50), as well as other sweet and savoury treats. There are supermarkets on the main road behind Stoupa. GETTING THERE & AWAY Stoupa is on the main Itilo Kalamata bus route. There are regular buses to Itilo (40 minutes) and Kalamata (one hour, 20 minutes). There are bus stops at the junctions of both the southern and northern approach roads, but the buses don t go into town. Kardamyli Καρδαμύλη pop 400 It s easy to see why Kardamyli (kahr-dahmee-lih) was one of the seven cities offered to Achilles by Agamemnon. This tiny village has one of the prettiest settings in the Peloponnese, nestled between the blue waters of the Messinian Gulf and the Taÿgetos Mountains. The Vyros Gorge, which emerges just north of town, runs to the foot of Mt Profitis Ilias (2407m), the highest peak of the Taÿgetos. Today the gorge and surrounding areas are very popular with hikers. Visitor numbers can swell to around 4000 in summer. ORIENTATION & INFORMATION Kardamyli is on the main Areopoli Kalamata road. The central square, 25 Martiou 1821, lies at the northern end of the main thoroughfare. Kardamyli s main pebble-and-stone beach is off the road to Kalamata; turn left beyond the bridge on the northern edge of town. The road up to Old (or Upper) Kardamyli is on the right before the bridge. The post office (h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) is on the main strip. ACTIVITIES Hiking Hiking has become Kardamyli s biggest drawcard. The hills behind the village are crisscrossed with an extensive network of colour-coded walking trails. Many guesthouses in the village can supply you with a map that explains the various routes. Most of the hikes around here are strenuous, so strong footwear is essential to support your ankles on the often relentlessly rough ground, particularly if you venture into the boulder-strewn gorge itself. You will also need to carry plenty of drinking water. Many of the walking trails pass through the mountain village of Exohorio, which is perched on the edge of the Vyros Gorge at an altitude of 450m. For nonwalkers the village is also accessible by road, and it s a good place to get into a spot of more gentle exploration. The turn-off to Exohorio is 3km south of Kardamyli. SLEEPING Budget There are plenty of domatia signs along the main road. The street down to the sea opposite the pharmacy is a good place to look. Olympia Koumounakou Rooms (% /21026; s/d 25/30) Olympia loves her budget travellers (as they do her) and offers clean, comfortable rooms and a communal kitchen. On the road before the pharmacy. Stratis Bravacos Rooms (% ; d/tr 35/45) Stratis, directly opposite Olympia s, is also great value for spotless studio apartments with kitchen facilities. Lela s Rooms (% ; d 45) Located at the end of the street before the pharmacy and overlooking the sea, Lela s rooms have a peaceful outlook but a noisy setting her taverna ( p210 ) is below. Midrange & Top End I Elies (% , ; 2-6-person apt ) A new and tasteful provincial-style complex of stone maisonettes, set in an olive grove. There s also a popular weekend lunch restaurant (mains 5.50 to 9) and a children s playground. About 1km north of the village. Kalamitsi Hotel (% ; -hotel.gr; d ; hapr-sep) This hotel is about 1km south of town and worth considering if you re not budgeting too keenly. The Kalamitsi is a lovely, modern, stone-built, terracottatiled hotel with serene, well-appointed rooms (family bungalows also available 220) and tree-shaded grounds leading to the hotel s own small, pebbly beach. Home-cooked dinners (set menu 20, guests only) and fresh buffet breakfasts ( 10) also available. Hotel Vardia (% ; studio 85, apt ) March into this top choice: a relaxing and stylish stone place (near a former sentry tower and situated high behind the village), with exceptional views of the Messinian Gulf. For those with transport, it s worth the hike. Turn up the hill at the bookshop. EATING There s no shortage of eating options in and around Kardamyli. Kafe (% ) An authentic kafeneio (coffee house). Vangelis, the owner, serves great Greek coffee. Handily located opposite the bus stop. Taverna Dioskouri (% ; mains ) A safe, nothing-over-the top option, except for the view, that is; it overlooks the sea from the hillside just south of town. Ta Kumaristria (% ) This place is known for its live music (8pm to 11pm), along PELOPONNESE

111 210 MESSINIA Kalamata Book accommodation online at MESSINIA Kalamata 211 PELOPONNESE with the hospitable host who serves tapasstyle dishes and a damned good time. Lela s Taverna (% ; mains 5-9) Lela s Taverna has a dreamy setting with a foliagecovered terrace overlooking the sea and tasty home-style cuisine. There are two supermarkets side by side at the northern edge of the village. GETTING THERE & AROUND Kardamyli is on the main bus route from Itilo to Kalamata ( 2.50, one hour). The bus stops at the central square, at the northern end of the main thoroughfare. Early birds can catch the sole bus to Exohorio at around 5.45am (check changing times); most travellers prefer to take a taxi (around 7). MESSINIA ΜΕΣΣΗΝIΑ Its remote location on the southwestern corner of the Peloponnese ensures that fewer travellers make it to Messinia than other parts, which is great news for those that do reach this region. The beaches in the southwest are some of the best in the country, and while villages like Finikounda have felt the weight of package tourism, the old Venetian towns of Koroni and Methoni still remain delightful hideaways. Messinia s boundaries were established in 371 BC following the defeat of Sparta by the Thebans at the Battle of Leuctra. The defeat ended almost 350 years of Spartan domination of the Peloponnese during which time Messinian exiles founded the city of Messinia in Sicily and meant the Messinians were left free to develop their kingdom in the region stretching west from the Taÿgetos Mountains. Their capital was ancient Messini, about 25km northwest of Kalamata on the slopes of Mt Ithomi. KALAMATA ΚΑΛΑΜAΤΑ pop 49,154 Kalamata is Messinia s capital and the secondlargest city in the Peloponnese. Compared to its more peaceful surrounds, it is a less inspiring destination for visitors, but museum lovers will be sated. Built on the site of ancient Pharai, the city takes its modern name from a miracle-working icon of the Virgin Mary known as kalo mata (good eye). It was discovered in the stables of the Ottoman aga (governor), who converted to Christianity as a result of the miracles it performed. The icon now resides inside the city s oversized cathedral, the Church of Ypapantis. In front of the kastro is the small, but attractive, old town, which was almost totally destroyed by the Turks during the War of Independence and rebuilt by French engineers in the 1830s. On 14 September 1986 Kalamata was devastated by an earthquake; 20 people died, hundreds were injured and more than 10,000 homes were destroyed. Orientation The lively waterfront along Navarinou is a long, hot walk from the kastro, which is situated above the old town. The main streets linking the two areas are Faron and Aristomenous. The city centre is situated around the central square on Aristomenous. The KTEL Messinia bus station is on the northern edge of town on Artemidos, while local buses leave from 23 Martiou bus 1 goes to the waterfront. The train station is on Frantzi, west of the central square. At the southern end of Aristomenous is the leafy OSE park, home to a collection of old steam locomotives and carriages. Information There are branches of all the major banks. The National Bank of Greece has a branch on Aristomenous, at the central square, and another on the waterfront on the corner of Akrita and Navarinou. Diktyo Internet Café (% ; Nedontos 75; per hr 2; h24hr) EOT (% ; Polyvriou 5; h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Barely ever open, but given the paucity of information on offer, no great shame. Launderette (% ; Methonis 3; per load wash & dry 8; h9am-2pm & 6-9pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Post office (Olgas; h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Port post office (Navarinou; h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Opposite the port. Post Cafe & Internet (% ; Iatropoulou 6; per hr 2; h24hr) A weird combo of café, nightclub and internet services. Tourist police (% ; Messinis; h8am- 9pm Mon-Fri) Sights KASTRO Looming over the town is the 13th-century kastro (admission free; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun). Remarkably, it survived the 1986 earthquake. The entry gate is its most impressive Idras 8 KALAMATA To Corinth (90km); Patra (227km); Athens (284km) Eleftherias Iatropoulou Frantzi Palama Solonos Lykourgou 25 Athinon Neodontos 1 20 Central Square 6 15 Train Station Makedonias Psaron S Stathmou To Tourist Police (1km); Airport (10km); Messini (12km) To Limeni Restaurant (250m); Marina (250km) 7 Aristomenous OSE Park Port Artemidos 13 Aristodimou 9 Filellinon Miaouli Polyvriou Kritis Kesari Kanari Faron Messinian Gulf m miles River Nedon Old Town 23 Martiou Faron Vas Konstantinou Platonos Koronis Ypapantis Mavromhali Panagouli (Vas Georgiou) Amalias Neodontos Nikitara Aristotelous Mezonos Santa Rosa Navarinou Methonis 11 Dimakopoulou Sokratous Pindarou Vyronos Stadiou Georgouli Olgas Sofias To Artemisia (24km); Sparta (58km) 19 Akrita 5 12 Ypapantis Meletiou To Military Museum (20m) Paleologou To Kardamyli (24km); Itilo (70km); Kythira (125km); Hotel Haikos INFORMATION Diktyo Internet Café... 1 A2 EOT... 2 A2 Launderette... 3 A5 National Bank of Greece... 4 A2 National Bank of Greece... 5 B6 National Bank of Greece... 6 A3 Port Post Office... 7 A5 Post Cafe & Internet... 8 A3 Post Office... 9 A3 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Benakion Archaeological Museum B1 Church of Ypapantis B1 Kastro B1 SLEEPING Hotel Rex A2 Pension Avra A6 EATING 15 The Restaurant A3 AB A5 Food Market B1 I Milopetra B2 TRANSPORT Alpha Rent a Bike B6 Avis A3 Hertz A5 KTEL Messinia Bus Station B1 Local Bus Terminal A2 Rent a Car Hellen B6 SMAN Travel/Maniatis A5 Verga Rent a Car A6 feature. There s not much else to see, but there are good views from the battlements. BENAKION ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM The Benakion Archaeological Museum (% ; Papazoglou 6; adult/concession 2/1; h8am-2.30pm Tue-Sun) is a small museum. The 1st-floor prehistoric displays are particularly good, with comprehensive explanations in English. It s just north of 23 Martiou, signposted off Ypapantis. MILITARY MUSEUM Keen military buffs should march into the Military Museum (% ; Mitropolitou Meletiou 10; admission free; h9am-2pm Tue-Sat, 6-8pm Wed, 11am-2pm Sun). The displays span a broad chronological sweep from the Turkish occupation (depicted in grisly paintings) to the 21st century. National servicemen take guided tours (English speakers are supposedly available). Unfortunately, all signage is in Greek. Sleeping The waterfront east of Faron is lined with characterless C-class (two-star) hotels that are best avoided. PELOPONNESE

112 212 MESSINIA Kalamata Book accommodation online at MESSINIA Mavromati (Ancient Messini) 213 PELOPONNESE KALAMATA OLIVES Kalamata gives its name to the prized Kalamata olive, a plump, purple-black variety that is found in delicatessens around the world and grown extensively (although not exclusively) in neighbouring Lakonia. The region s reliable winter rains and hot summers make for perfect olive-growing conditions. The Kalamata tree is distinguished from the common olive (grown for oil) by the size of its leaves. Like its fruit, the leaves of the Kalamata are twice the size of other varieties and greener. Unlike other varieties, Kalamata olives cannot be picked green. They ripen in late November, and must be hand-picked to avoid bruising. You can buy and sample these famous olives at the markets in Kalamata. Pension Avra (% ; Santa Rosa 10; d/t without bathroom 25/32) This place has aged gracefully like its owner a little grey and frayed around the edges, but clean and respectable. The very basic rooms have balconies. Hotel Haikos (% ; Navarino 115; s/d/tr 55/85/91) One of the best choices of the modern(ish) two-star hotels along the beachfront, with motel-style trimmings, such as hair dryers and bar fridges. Rooms at the front can catch the street noise. Breakfast is 6 extra. Prices are significantly less outside high season. Hotel Rex (% ; Aristomenous 26; s/d/ste incl breakfast 97/138/245; ai) The Rex stands unchallenged as the best address (with the slowest lift) in Kalamata. It occupies a fine neoclassical building, and offers travellers comfortable if slightly cramped modern rooms with all the facilities, including air-con, satellite TV and internet access. Eating 15 The Restaurant (% ; Sidirodromikou Stathmou 15; mains 5-8; hlunch & dinner) The nearest thing to a fast-food joint, but along Greek lines (and minus the clowns), with a decent selection of local dishes from mousakas (sliced eggplant and mincemeat arranged in layers and baked) to sardines. To Limeni (% ; Kalamata Marina; mains 5-14, fish per kg 40; hlunch & dinner) At the far western end of the Marina, you ll find the Limeni serving fresh, flavourful taverna classics under a shady terrace overlooking bobbing yachts. I Milopetra (% ; snacks ; hlunch & dinner) A cosmopolitan, contemporary and upmarket café with an olive theme, in a handy location in the old town. Serves gourmet snacks and olive-based products. The Marina is the best place for seafood and other tavernas at a varying range of styles and prices. Self-caterers should visit the large Food market (Nedontos) across the bridge from the KTEL Messinia bus station. Kalamata is noted for its olives, olive oil and figs (see the boxed text, left ). There are dozens of supermarkets around town. AB (Kritis 13) is the biggest and the best. Getting There & Away AIR Olympic Airways runs a flight ( 76, three weekly) between Kalamata and Thessaloniki (but not Athens). BUS In town, KTEL Messinia bus station (% ; Artemidos) has buses to Athens ( 18.90, 4½ hours, 13 daily) via Tripoli ( 6.90, 1¼ hours) and Corinth ( 13.50, 2½ hours), Kyparissia ( 5.80, 1¼ hours, five daily) and Patra ( 19.50, four hours, two daily) via Pyrgos ( 10.90, two hours). Heading west, there are buses to Koroni ( 4.10, 1½ hours, nine daily), Pylos ( 4.10, 1¼ hours, eight daily), Methoni ( 5, 1½ hours, four daily) and Finikounda ( 6.30, 1¾ hours, two daily). Heading east across the Langada Pass to Sparta involves changing buses at Artemisia ( 2.10, 45 minutes). There are also three buses a day to the Messinian Mani, travelling as far as Itilo ( 6.10, 2¼ hours) via Kardamyli ( 3, 45 minutes) and Stoupa ( 3.70, 1¼ hours). Sunday services are greatly reduced or nonexistent. FERRY A weekly ferry service operated by ANEN Lines ( runs from Kalamata to Kissamos-Kastelli (per person/car 23/82, eight hours), on Crete, via Kythira. Contact SMAN Travel/Maniatis (% ; smantrv@acn.gr; Psaron), by the port, for the schedule. TRAIN Kalamata is the end of the line for the Peloponnese railway (see the boxed text, p161 ). There are three trains departing daily on the west coast line to Corinth (normal/intercity 14/20), Pyrgos (normal/intercity 2.80/6) and Patra (normal/intercity 5/10, five hours). Getting Around TO/FROM THE AIRPORT Kalamata s airport is 10.5km west of the city near Messini. There is no airport shuttle bus. A taxi costs about 10. BUS Local buses leave from 23 Martiou. The most useful service is bus 1, which goes south along Aristomenous to the seafront and then east along Navarinou to the edge of town. The flat fare is 1. Buy tickets from kiosks or the driver. CAR & MOTORCYCLE Kalamata is a good place to rent a vehicle, due to hot competition between the agencies at the waterfront end of Faron. Recommended options: Alpha Rent a Bike (% ; Vyronos 143) Rents a range of bikes from 50cc to 500cc. Avis (% ; Katsari 2) Hertz (% ; Methonis & Kanari 88) Rent a Car Hellen (% ; Faron 210) Verga Rent a Car (% ; Faron 202) MAVROMATI (ANCIENT MESSINI) ΜΑΥΡΟΜΑΤΙ (ΑΡΧΑΙΑ ΜΕΣΣΗΝΗ) pop 388 The fascinating ruins of Ancient Messini lie scattered across a small valley below the pretty village of Mavromati, 25km northwest of Kalamata. The village takes its name from the fountain in the central square; the water gushes from a hole in the rock that looks like a black eye (mavro mati in Greek). History Ancient Messini was founded in 371 BC after the Theban general Epaminondas defeated Sparta at the Battle of Leuctra, freeing the Messinians from almost 350 years of Spartan rule. Built on the site of an earlier stronghold, the new Messinian capital was one of a string of defensive positions designed to keep watch over Sparta. Epaminondas himself helped to plan the fortifications, which were based on a massive wall that stretched 9km around the surrounding ridges and completely enclosed the town. Apart from its defensive potential, Ancient Messini was also favoured by the gods. According to local myth, Zeus was born here not Crete and raised by the nymphs Neda and Ithomi, who bathed him in the same spring that gives the modern village its name. Sights EXPLORING THE SITE The best views of this beautiful site are from Mavromati s central square, and it s worth briefly examining the layout before heading down for a closer look. Access is by a couple of steep paths leading downhill either side of the museum, about 300m northwest of the square. The museum (% ; admission 2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) houses a small and interesting collection of finds from the site, mainly statues recovered from the asklepion. They include two statues assumed to be of Machaon and Podaleiros, the sons of Asclepius. They are thought to be the work of the sculptor Damophon, who specialised in oversized statues of gods and heroes, and was responsible for many of the statues that once adorned ancient Messini. Before heading down to the site, it s worth continuing another 800m along the road past the museum to view the celebrated Arcadian Gate. This unusual circular gate guarded the ancient route to Megalopoli now the modern road north to Meligalas and Zerbisia which runs through the gate. Running uphill from the gate is the finest surviving section of the mighty defensive wall built by Epaminondas. It remains impressive, studded with small, square forts, and is well worth the gentle uphill walk from the village. The site itself (admission free) remained unexplored until very recent times, and is slowly emerging from the valley floor. Excavation so far has concentrated on the asklepion complex that lay at the heart of the ancient city. This extensive complex was centred on a Doric temple that once housed a golden statue of Ithomi. The modern awning west of the temple protects the artemision, where PELOPONNESE

113 214 MESSINIA Koroni Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at MESSINIA Methoni 215 PELOPONNESE fragments of an enormous statue of Artemis Orthia were found. The structures to the east of the asklepion include the ekklesiasterion, which once acted as an assembly hall. The site s main path leads downhill from the asklepion to the stadium, which is surrounded by the ruins of an enormous gymnasium. Sleeping & Eating Rooms to Rent/Taverna Ithomi (%/fax ; d 40) The Ithomi s proprietors have four very comfortable family rooms with pine ceilings, above their restaurant (this means some noise). A large communal balcony overlooks the site. The taverna downstairs specialises in grilled food and salads (mains 5 to 10), and serves breakfasts. Getting There & Away There are two buses daily to Mavromati ( 2.20, one hour) from Kalamata, one in the early morning, the other in the afternoon, to a changing schedule. Check at the taverna. KORONI ΚΟΡΩΝΗ pop 1668 Koroni (ko-ro-nih) is a delightful old Venetian port town, 43km southwest of Kalamata, situated on Messinia Bay. Medieval mansions and churches line the town s quaint, narrow and winding streets. These lead to a promontory, on which perches an extensive castle. Orientation & Information Buses will drop you in the central square outside the Church of Agios Dimitrios, one block back from the harbour. The main street (formal name Perikli Ralli, but few know it) runs east from the square, one block back from the sea. There is no tourist office, but the large town map on the cathedral wall shows the location of both banks and the post office (h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri), all of which are nearby. There are no tourist police. Sights & Activities Much of the old castle is occupied by the Timios Prodromos Convent. Note the castle s impressive Gothic entrance. The small promontory beyond the castle is a tranquil place for a stroll, with lovely views over the Messinian Gulf to the Taÿgetos Mountains. Koroni s main attraction is Zaga, a long sweep of golden sand just south of the town. It takes about 20 minutes to walk to Zaga you can cut through the castle or go via the road. Ask locals for directions. Sleeping & Eating Accommodation is a bit limited in Koroni. Most of the rooms are spread around a cluster of domatia (singles/doubles 30/40) by the sea, at the eastern end of the main street. There are more domatia overlooking Zaga, but they are often block booked in summer. Camping Koroni (% ; Koroni; camp sites per adult/tent/car 7/4/4; s) Located only 200m from Koroni, near the beach and with good facilities. Hotel Diana (%/fax ; s/d 30/45; a) This place is blessed (or otherwise) with Byzantine gold-plated bar stools, icons and the like. Management s mood isn t always as shiny but rooms are better. It s off the central square almost on the seafront. Vagas Apartments (% ; Zaga ; 2-/4-person apt 65/80, 4-6-person cottage 120;ap) Personable apartments with kitchen facilities and balconies and views over Zaga. Kagelarios Restaurant (% ; main street; mains 6-14, fish per kg 50-68) A busy, popular place, open year-round. Locals rave about the fish, including gavros (anchovy), and mezedhes. Along the waterfront (about 100m from Hotel Diana). Getting There & Away There are eight buses daily to Kalamata ( 4.10, 1½ hours) and one to Athens ( 23). FINIKOUNDA ΦΟΙΝΙΚΟΥΝΤΑ pop 560 The fishing village of Finikounda, midway between Koroni and Methoni, is now something of a seasonal minipackage-tour resort. Thankfully it lacks high-rises, but its new highway cuts a swathe behind the village. It s maintained the reasonable beaches that stretch either side of the village, and it s popular for windsurfing. All the shops and facilities are in the old village around the port. The bus stop is outside Hotel Finikountas, 100m from the port. Sleeping & Eating Camping Anemomilos (% ; fax ; camp sites per adult/tent/car 5/3.50/2.50; hyear round) Popular with younger campers, although not exclusively so, this camping ground is right by the beach, 3km west of Finikounda, off the road to Methoni. Hotel Korakakis (% ; korakaki@otenet.gr; s/d 55/65; a) A comfortable 1980s-style hotel at the eastern end of the main town beach, away from the madding crowd. Akti Studios (% ; d/tr 65/65; pa) This small, family-run place has comfortable studios with kitchen facilities. It s set back from the beach road about 250m east of the port. The rooms have balconies with beach views. Taverna Elena (% ; mains ) Position, position, position. With a prime spot on the headland overlooking the port at the western end of town, it s the perfect spot to relax and take in the views. There s dish of the day, a kids menu and wi-fi. Getting There & Away There are buses to Kalamata ( 5.40, 3¼ hours, four to five daily) via Methoni and Pylos. METHONI ΜΕΘΩΝΗ pop 1169 Methoni (meh-tho-nih), 12km south of Pylos, was another of the seven cities offered to Achilles by Agamemnon. Homer described it as rich in vines. Today it s a pretty seaside town with a popular sandy beach, next to which crouches a sturdy 15thcentury Venetian fortress. Orientation & Information The road from Pylos forks on the edge of town to create Methoni s two main streets, which then run parallel through town to the fortress. As you come from Pylos, the fork to the right is the main shopping street. It has numerous shops, kafeneia, a National Bank of Greece (and ATE Bank ATM) and a nearby supermarket. The left fork leads directly to the fortress car park, passing the post office (h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) on the way. Turn left at the fortress end of either street onto Miaouli, which leads to Methoni. The small square by the beach is surrounded by fairly characterless hotels and several seafood restaurants. There is no tourist office or tourist police. The regular police (% ) are signposted near the post office. Sights FORTRESS This splendid kastro (admission free; h8am-7pm May-Sep, to 3pm Oct-Apr), a great example of military architecture, is vast and romantic. Within the walls are a Turkish bath, a cathedral, a house, a cistern, parapets and underground passages. See how many Lion of St Mark insignias you can spot. This vast fortification is built on a promontory south of the modern town and is surrounded on three sides by the sea and separated from the mainland by a moat. The medieval port town, which was located within the fortress walls, was the Venetians first and their longest-held possession in the Peloponnese. It was also a stopover point for pilgrims en route to the Holy Land. During medieval times the twin fortresses of Methoni and Koroni were known as the Eyes of the Serene Republic. A short causeway leads from the fortress to the diminutive octagonal Bourtzi castle on an adjacent islet. Sleeping & Eating Camping Methoni (% ; camp sites per adult/ tent/car 4.30/3/2.60) This basic camping ground has a good beachfront location, but is not the shadiest of spots. Hotel Achilles (%/fax ; s/d 55/70; hyear-round; a) The smartest of a range of small family hotels in town, with comfortable modern rooms. There s a light, airy dining area and balcony, too. Breakfast costs 6. Apartments Melina (% ; studio 65, 4-person apt ) Immaculate apartments right across from the beach, with a trim garden of vines, roses and palms, and friendly English-speaking owners. Taverna Nikos (% ; mains 5-9; hyearround) Good, clean, cheap and with big helpings is the local boast of this no-frills taverna, halfway along Miaouli near the fortress. Methoni Café Restaurant (% ; mains ; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner summer) Situated beside the fortress moat and beneath the hotel of the same name (singles/doubles/ triples including breakfast 9/110/135), this bustling place has a huge menu of Greek, Mediterranean and international dishes, including an extensive selection of salads, pasta dishes and fresh fish. Among the local specialities on offer are pastitsio (layers of buttery PELOPONNESE

114 216 MESSINIA Pylos Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at MESSINIA Gialova 217 PELOPONNESE macaroni and seasoned minced lamb) and mousakas. It offers umbrellas, and a beach bar with personalised service. Getting There & Away Buses depart from Methoni from the fork at the Pylos end of town where the two main streets meet. Bus services depart for Pylos ( 1.50, 15 minutes, five daily), Kalamata ( 5.50, 1½ hours, five daily) and Finikounda ( 2, 15 minutes, two daily). For a timetable, try your luck at the newspaper shop near the bus stop. PYLOS ΠΥΛΟΣ pop 2104 Pylos (pee-loss), on the coast 51km southwest of Kalamata, presides over the southern end of an immense bay. With its huge natural harbour almost enclosed by the Sfaktiria Islet, a delightful tree-shaded central square, two castles and surrounding pine-covered hills, Pylos is one of the most picturesque towns in the Peloponnese. From the bay on 20 October 1827, the British, French and Russian fleets, under the command of Admiral Codrington, fired at point-blank range on Ibrahim Pasha s combined Turkish, Egyptian and Tunisian fleet, sinking 53 ships and killing 6000 men, with negligible losses on the Allies side. The attack was known as the Battle of Navarino (which is the town s former name) and was decisive in the War of Independence, but it was not meant to have been a battle at all. The Allied fleet wanted to achieve no more than to persuade Ibrahim Pasha and his fleet to leave, but things got somewhat out of hand. George IV, on hearing the news, described it as a deplorable misunderstanding. Orientation & Information Everything of importance is within a few minutes walk of the central square, Trion Navarhon (Sq of the Three Admirals), down by the seafront. The bus station is on the inland side of the square. Nileos runs uphill from the bus station. There is no tourist office. The National Bank of Greece and ATE Bank (with ATM) is on the square. Internet P@ndigit@l (Episkopou 17; per hr 2.50) Cutting-edge services. Police station (% /2316) On the central square. Post office (Nileos; h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Sights & Activities CASTLES There are castles on each side of Navarino Bay. The more accessible of them is the Neo Kastro (% ; adult/concession 3/2; h8.30am-7pm Tue-Sun), on the hill top at the southern edge of town, off the road to Methoni. It was built by the Turks in 1573 and later used as a launching pad for the invasion of Crete. It remains in good condition, especially the formidable surrounding walls. Within its walls are a citadel, a mosque converted into a church and a courtyard surrounded by dungeons (used as a prison until the 1900s). The road to Methoni from the central square goes past the castle. Allow a couple of hours for relaxed exploration. For coverage of the ancient Paleokastro, the other castle that is 6km north of Pylos, see opposite. BOAT TOURS Club Boats (% , ) in the kiosk on the quay runs boat tours around the Bay of Navarino and to Sfaktiria Island. The price depends on the number of passengers, but reckon on about 8 each for a group of four or more. On the trip around the island, stops can be made at memorials to admirals of the Allied ships. Napoleon s nephew and British casualties are also buried here. Boats pause to see silt-covered wrecks of sunken Turkish ships, still discernible in the clear waters. Sleeping Rooms to Rent Stavroula Milona (% ; d without bathroom 30) This creaky place (with wobbly floors) is charming. The small, basic rooms are clean and comfortable. There s a communal kitchen and TV lounge. It s on the seafront, south of Hotel Miramare, above Café-Bar En Plo (the bar s nightly music may bother some). Hotel Miramare (% ; fax ; s/d/tr incl breakfast 45/65/75; a) This place holds no surprises it s a comfortable midrange seafront hotel, just south of the harbour, with views over Navarino Bay. Eating There are plenty of tavernas with standard favorites and seafood. Restaurant Grigoris (% ; mains ) A great alternative to the central square options. Forget the menu round off your appetite with the chef s stove-top displays. In summer there s a shady garden. On a quiet spot one street north of, and parallel to, the harbour. Café Krinos (% ; h6am-1am) Open since 1937 on the central square, this café (meaning lily ) boasts a recent contemporary make-over, plus the best pastries around. Known for its galaktoboureko, a sweet dough and custardlike pastry. Owner Paul knows heaps about the region. There is a supermarket on the central square. Getting There & Away From the bus station KTEL Messinia (% ) has buses to Kalamata ( 4.20, 1¼ hours, eight daily), Kyparissia ( 5, 1¼ hours, five daily) via Nestor s Palace ( 1.40, 30 minutes, four services Saturday and two on Sunday), and Hora ( 2, 35 minutes), Methoni ( 1.20, 20 minutes, five daily) and Finikounda ( 1.80, 30 minutes, three services daily Monday to Saturday, none on Sunday). On weekends there are two buses a day to Athens ( 23.10, five hours). For Patra, there s one connection per day at Kyparissia. GIALOVA ΓΙΑΛΟΒΑ pop 260 The village of Gialova lies 8km north of Pylos on the northeastern edge of Navarino Bay. It boasts a fine sandy beach and safe swimming in the sheltered waters of the bay. The Gialova Lagoon is a prime bird-watching site in winter (see boxed text, p218 ). Sleeping & Eating Camping Erodios (% ; camp sites per adult/tent/car 6/5/3.50, 2-/4- bed cabins 55/70) Erodios, which is Greek for heron, is a new camping ground northwest of the village on the road leading out to the Gialova Lagoon and Paleokastro. It has a good stretch of beach on Navarino Bay and great facilities. Hotel-Restaurant Zoe (% ; zoe.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast 58/70/110; a) The Zoe is a small family-run hotel on the seafront near the pier. The owners have lots of information about bird-watching and walks around the wetlands. Taverna To Spitiko (% ; mains 6-10) There s a strong Cypriot presence in the kitchen at To Spitiko, which cooks fresh, flavoursome food, including a tasty saganaki from Cypriot cheese, and superb Cypriotstyle pork meatballs flavoured with fresh herbs (seftelies). Getting There & Away There are five buses a day south to Pylos ( 1.20, 15 minutes) and five north to Kyparissia via Nestor s Palace and Hora. AROUND GIALOVA Paleokastro The ruins of this ancient castle lie 5km west of Gialova on rugged Koryfasion Hill, a formidable natural defensive position overlooking the northern entrance to Navarino Bay. The road out to the castle is signposted on the northern edge of the village. It crosses the narrow spit of land that separates Navarino Bay from the Gialova Lagoon, and finishes at a car park at the southern end of the hill. Signs point to the beginning of a rough track that snakes up the steep hillside to the castle entrance. The castle was built by the Franks at the end of the 13th century, and sits on the site of the acropolis of ancient Pylos. It was occupied in 1381 by Spanish mercenaries from Navarra, after whom the bay is named. The car park is also the starting point for another track that skirts around the base of Koryphasion Hill to Voidokilia. This beautiful, sandy horseshoe bay is presumed to be Homer s sandy Pylos, where Telemachus was warmly welcomed when he came to ask wise old King Nestor the whereabouts of his long-lost father, Odysseus, King of Ithaca. There s another path up to the castle from the southern side of the beach that passes Nestor s Cave. According to mythology, this is the cave where Hermes hid the cattle he stole from Apollo. It boasts some impressive stalactites. Voidokilia can also be approached via road from the village of Petrohori, about 4km north of Gialova off the road to Hora. Nestor s Palace So called because it is believed to have been the court of the mythical hero Nestor, who took part in the voyage of the Argonauts and fought in the Trojan War, Nestor s Palace (% ; admission 3; h8.30am-3pm) is PELOPONNESE

115 218 ELIA Tholos to Pyrgos Book accommodation online at ELIA Pyrgos 219 PELOPONNESE the best preserved of all Mycenaean palaces. Originally a two-storey building, the palace s walls stand 1m high, giving a good idea of the layout of a Mycenaean palace complex. The main palace, in the middle, was a building of many rooms. The largest room, the throne room, was where the king dealt with state business. In the centre was a large, circular hearth surrounded by four ornate columns that supported a 1st-floor balcony. Some of the fine frescoes discovered here are housed in the museum in the nearby village of Hora. Surrounding the throne is the sentry box, pantry, waiting room, a vestibule and, most fascinating, a bathroom with a terracotta tub still in place. The most important finds were 1200 or so Linear B script tablets, the first discovered on the mainland. Some are in Hora s museum. The site was excavated later than the other Mycenaean sites, between 1952 and An excellent guidebook by Carl Blegen, who led the excavations, is sold at the site. Nestor s Palace is 17km north of modern Pylos. Buses from Pylos to Kyparissia stop at Nestor s Palace ( 1.40, 30 minutes). Hora Χώρα Hora s fascinating little archaeological museum (% ; admission 1.50; h8.30am-3pm Tue- Sun), 3km northeast of Nestor s Palace, houses finds from the site and other Mycenaean artefacts from Messinia. The prize pieces are the frescoes from the throne rooms at Nestor s Palace. Buses from Pylos to Kyparissia stop at Hora. ELIA ΗΛIΑ Most people come to Elia for one reason: to visit the historically important and impressive site of Ancient Olympia, birthplace of the Olympic Games, in the region s western prefecture. Elia is otherwise largely an agricultural area. Ancient Elia took its name from the mythical King Helios. Its capital was the city of Elis, now a forgotten ruin on the road from Gastouni to Lake Pinios. When the Franks arrived, they made Andravida the capital of their principate of Morea. Pyrgos is the dull modern capital. THOLOS TO PYRGOS ΘΟΛΟΣ ΠΡΟΣ ΠΥΡΓΟΣ Heading north into Elia from Messinia, the mountains to the east give way to populated plains fringed by golden-sand beaches. Elia s coastline has one of the longest stretches of beaches, even if interspersed here and there by pebbled shores and rocky outcrops. Among the best southern beaches are Tholos, Kakovatos and Kouroutas. There is seaside accommodation available in each village, but most of it is in uninspiring concrete buildings. A sign outside Tholos points to the mountain village of Nea Figalia, 14km inland. From here, it s a further 21km to reach the tranquil and overgrown site of Ancient Figalia, set high above the River Neda. Laurel, cypress and citrus trees are clustered around the ruins of this ancient Arkadian marketplace, with BIRD-WATCHING The best and most accessible bird-watching site in the Peloponnese is the Gialova Lagoon. Between November and March the lagoon is home to up to 20,000 assorted water birds, while many others pause here on their spring migration between Africa and Eastern Europe. The Hellenic Ornithological Society has recorded 262 of the 423 species found in Greece, including 10 species of duck and eight types of heron. Waders descend in their thousands, along with flamingos and glossy ibis. Birds of prey include the imperial eagle, osprey, peregrine falcon and harriers. The lagoon and associated wetlands cover 500 hectares at the northern end of Navarino Bay, separated from the bay by a narrow spit of land leading out to Koryphasion Hill. They are fed by two freshwater streams that flow into the reed beds on the northern and eastern flanks of the lagoon and empty into Navarino Bay, below Koryphasion Hill. The wetlands and surrounding coastal habitats were declared a protected area in The old pump house, former nerve centre of an ill-considered drainage scheme, has been converted into an information centre and is the starting point for a walking trail that guides visitors through a range of habitats. remnants of towers, a small acropolis and a temple to Dionysos, the wine pourer. A road leads about 19km east from Nea Figalia to Andritsena. PYRGOS ΠΥΡΓΟΣ pop 23,274 Pyrgos, the capital of Elia prefecture, 98km southwest of Patra and 24km from Olympia, is a busy service town with little of interest to the visitor, except for shops. But you ll probably end up here: all forms of public transport, including buses and trains to Olympia, pass through the town. The train and bus stations are about 400m apart, the former at the northern edge of town on Ypsilantou and the modern, well-organised bus station on the other side of the train tracks northwest of the station. Sleeping If you need to stay overnight, there are several hotels on the streets leading into town, off Ypsilantou. Hotel Pantheon (% ; pantheon@mailbox.gr; Themistokleous 7; s/d 40/50; a) This place was built in the 1980s and has not changed since. But it s pleasant, clean and central. Breakfast costs 6. Getting There & Away BUS There are up to 16 buses daily to Olympia ( 1.90, 30 minutes), as well as 10 daily to Athens ( 23.80, four hours), nine daily to Patra ( 8.40, two hours), and two daily to Andritsena ( 5.30, two hours), Kyllini ( 4.60, one hour), Kyparissia ( 5.20, 1¼ hours) and Kalamata ( 10, two hours). The schedule is reduced on weekends. TRAIN Heading north, there are six trains daily to Corinth (express/normal 10.30/5.60, 4¾/3½ hours) via Patra; heading south, there are five trains daily to Kyparissia (express/normal 4.40/1.80, 1¼ hours), which continue to Kalamata (express/normal 6/2.80, 3¼ hours). There are also trains daily on the branch line to Olympia ( 0.70, 40 minutes). AROUND PYRGOS Nemea s wine country is not the only region of the Peloponnese to produce a decent drop. The Mercouri Estate (% ; 9am-2pm Mon-Sat), 1km north of Korakohori village and about 15km from Pyrgos, is another worthwhile winery. This handsome estate produces a dry white Foloi, and a prizewinning rich red, its flagship Domaine Mercouri. It also runs tours of the grounds (book ahead). OLYMPIA ΟΛΥΜΠIΑ pop 1000 With countless overpriced souvenir shops and eateries, the modern village of Olympia (o-lim-bee-ah) panders unashamedly to the hundreds of thousands of tourists who continually pour through here on their way to Ancient Olympia. Despite this, the town is far from kitsch. Beyond the well-kept leafy streets are several even leafier walks, including that along the Kladeos River. Only 500m south of town is Ancient Olympia, one of the most luxuriantly green, beautiful and historically important sites to be consumed. Try to head to the site as it opens and savour a few quiet minutes before the hordes arrive. Lone entry to the site s stadium is guaranteed to give you goose bumps. Orientation The main street, Praxitelous Kondyli, runs through town and leads to the Ancient Olympia site. The bus stop for Pyrgos and Tripoli is one block before the church as you enter Olympia from Pyrgos, and the train station is close to the town centre near the end of Douma St. Information Ep@thlon C@fe (% ; per hr 4; h8ammidnight) National Bank of Greece (cnr Praxitelous Kondyli & Stefanopoulou) One of four banks in town. Olympia Municipal Tourist Office (Praxitelous Kondyli;hMay-Sep) Closed at the time of research, it should be back in service for high season. In the meantime, bus, train and ferry schedules (from Kyllini and Patra) are posted on the window. Post office (Pierre Coubertin 3; h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Tourist police (% ; Spiliopoulou 5) Sights Four museums focus on Ancient Olympia and Olympia (and Olympics) mania. The Archaeological Museum and Museum of the History of the Olympic Games are not to be PELOPONNESE

116 220 ELIA Olympia ELIA Olympia 221 PELOPONNESE missed; the other two are only worth it if you have time to kill or interest to satisfy. And this is before you even hit the Olympic site itself. You can buy a joint ticket for both the Olympic site and for the Archaeological Museum highly recommended. MUSEUM OF THE HISTORY OF THE OLYMPIC GAMES IN ANTIQUITY This museum (admision free; h pm Mon, 8am- 7.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10.30am-5pm Mon, 8.30am-5pm Tue- Sun Nov-Mar), opened in 2004 (after the Athens Olympics), is a beautifully presented space depicting the history of all things athletic, as well as the Nemean, Panathenaic and, of course, Olympic Games. The sculptures, mosaics and other displays all play tribute to athletes and athleticism. Women and their involvement (or lack of) is also acknowledged. MUSEUM OF THE HISTORY OF EXCAVATIONS IN OLYMPIA Next to the Museum of the History of the Olympic Games, and housed in a small historic building, this museum (admission free; h pm Mon, 8am-7.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10.30am-5pm Mon, 8.30am-5pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar) will appeal more to archaeology and history buffs. It displays items relating to the site s German excavations in the 19th century. ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM This superb museum (%/fax ; adult/ concession 6/3 incl site visit 9/5; h pm Mon, 8am-7.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10.30am-5pm Mon, 8.30am- 3pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar) Ancient Olympia s archaeological site museum about 200m north of the sanctuary s ticket kiosk, is a great place to start or end your visit to the site of Ancient Olympia. There is a scale site model, and the reassembly of the pediments and metopes from the Temple of Zeus are spectacular (despite not being complete). The eastern pediment depicts the chariot race between Pelops and Oinomaos, the western pediment shows the fight between the Centaurs and Lapiths, and the metopes depict the Twelve Labours of Hercules. Don t miss the 4th-century Parian marble statue of Hermes of Praxiteles, a masterpiece of classical sculpture from the Temple of Hera. Hermes was charged with taking the infant Dionysos to Mt Nysa. You ll also find intriguing collections of tiny, but beautifully crafted, votive offerings discovered on the site, and the sculptured Head of Hera. HISTORICAL MUSEUM OF THE OLYMPIC GAMES Only real Olympic devotees will enjoy this rather uninspired museum (% ; adult/concession 2/1;h 8.30am-3.30pm Tue-Sat, 9am-4pm Sun). It houses a collection of commemorative stamps and literature, mostly in French. It s two blocks west of Praxitelous Kondyli, opposite the junction of Agerinai and Kosmopoulou. SITE OF ANCIENT OLYMPIA The Olympics were undoubtedly the Ancient World s biggest sporting event. During the games warring states briefly halted their squabbles, corporate sponsors vied to outdo each other, and victorious competitors won great fame and considerable fortune (sometimes even living at public expense). You could say much the same about their modern-day equivalent, the main difference being that back then only men could compete and they did most of it sans underpants. Held every four years until their abolition by killjoy Emperor Theodosius I in AD 394, the games lasted at least 1000 years. The World Heritage listed site of Ancient Olympia (% ; adult/concession 6/3, site & archaeological museum 9/5; h8am-7.30pm Apr-Oct, 8.30am-3pm Nov-Mar) is still a recognisable complex of temples, priests dwellings and public buildings. The site contains excellent explanatory boards, with depictions of what the buildings would have looked like, along with a plan and description in English. History & Mythology The origins of Olympia date back to Mycenaean times. The Great Goddess, identified as Rea, was worshipped here in the 1st millennium BC. By the classical era Rea had been superseded by her son Zeus. A small regional festival, which probably included athletic events, began in the 11th century BC. The first official quadrennial Olympic Games were declared in 776 BC by King Iphitos of Elis. By 676 BC they were open to all Greek males and reached the height of their prestige in 576 BC. The games were held in honour of Zeus, popularly acclaimed as their founder, and took place around the first full moon in August. ANCIENT OLYMPIA To Olympia (500m) Kladeos River The athletic festival lasted five days and included wrestling, chariot and horse racing, the pentathlon (wrestling, discus and javelin throwing, long jump and running), and the pancratium (a vicious form of fisticuffs). Originally only Greek-born males were allowed to participate, but later Romans were permitted. Slaves and women were not allowed to enter the sanctuary as participants or spectators. Women trying to sneak in were thrown from a nearby rock. The event served purposes besides athletic competition. Writers, poets and historians read their works to large audiences, and the citizens of various city-states got together. Traders clinched business deals and city-state leaders talked in an atmosphere of festivity that was conducive to resolving differences through discussion, rather than battle. The games continued during the first years of Roman rule. By this time, however, their importance had declined and, thanks to Nero, they had become less sporting. In AD 67 Nero entered the chariot race with 10 horses, ordering that other competitors could have no more than four. Despite this advantage he fell and abandoned the race, yet was still declared the winner by the judges. The games were held for the last time in AD 394, before they were banned by Emperor Theodosius I as part of a purge of pagan festivals. In AD 426 Theodosius II decreed that the temples of Olympia be destroyed. The modern Olympic Games were instituted in 1896 and, other than during WWI 6 To Museum (200m) Altis (Sacred Precinct of Zeus) m miles To Miraka (2km) Altar of Oaths... 1 B2 Bouleuterion (Council House)... 2 B2 East Portico of the Gymnasium... 3 A1 Entrance... 4 A1 Gymnasium... 5 A1 Leonidaion... 6 B2 Metroön... 7 B1 Nymphaeum... 8 B1 Palaestra (Wrestling School)... 9 A2 Pelopion B2 Pheidias' Workshop A2 Philippeion B1 Prytaneum B1 Stadium C1 Temple of Hera B1 Temple of Zeus B2 Theokoleon (Priests House) A2 Treasuries B1 and WWII, have been held every four years in different cities around the world ever since, including (to much celebration in Greece) the 2004 Olympics. The Olympic flame is lit at the ancient site and carried by runners to the city where the games are held. Exploring the Site Ancient Olympia is signposted from the modern village. The entrance is beyond the bridge over the Kladeos River. Thanks to Theodosius II and various earthquakes, little remains of the magnificent buildings of Ancient Olympia, but enough exists to sustain an absorbing visit in an idyllic, leafy setting; allow a minimum of half a day. A visit to the museum ( opposite ) beforehand will help with visualising the ancient buildings. The first ruin encountered is the gymnasium, which dates from the 2nd century BC. South of here is the partly restored palaestra (wrestling school), where contestants practised and trained. The next building was the theokoleon (priests house). Behind it is Pheidias workshop, where the gargantuan ivory-and-gold Statue of Zeus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, was sculpted. The workshop was identified by archaeologists after the discovery of tools and moulds. Beyond the theokoleon is the leonidaion, an elaborate structure that accommodated dignitaries. The altis, or Sacred Precinct of Zeus, lies east of the path. Its most important building was the immense 5th-century Doric Temple of Zeus, which enshrined Pheidias statue, later PELOPONNESE

117 222 ELIA Olympia Book accommodation online at ELIA Andritsena 223 PELOPONNESE removed to Constantinople by Theodosius II (where it was destroyed by fire in 475 BC). One column has been restored and reerected, and helps you put into perspective its sheer size. South of the Temple of Zeus is the bouleuterion (council house), containing the altar of oaths, where competitors swore to obey the rules decreed by the Olympic Senate. The stadium lies to the east of the altis and is entered through an archway. The start and finish lines of the 120m sprint track and the judges seats still survive. The stadium could seat at least 45,000 spectators. Slaves and women spectators had to be content to watch from the Hill of Cronos. To the north of the Temple of Zeus was the pelopion, a small, wooded hillock with an altar to Pelops. It was surrounded by a wall containing the remains of its Doric portico. Many artefacts, now displayed in the museum, were found on the hillock. Further north is the 6th-century Doric Temple of Hera, the site s most intact structure. Hera was worshipped along with Rea until the two were superseded by Zeus. To the east of this temple is the nymphaeum, erected by the wealthy Roman banker Herodes Atticus in AD Typical of buildings financed by Roman benefactors, it was grandiose, consisting of a semicircular building with Doric columns flanked at each side by a circular temple. The building contained statues of Herodes Atticus and his family. Despite its elaborate appearance, the nymphaeum had a practical purpose; it was a fountain house supplying Olympia with fresh spring water. Beyond the nymphaeum and up a flight of stone steps, a row of 12 treasuries stretched to the stadium, each erected by a city-state for use as a storehouse and marking the northern boundaries of the altis. At the bottom of these steps are the scant remains of the 5th-century-BC metroön, a temple dedicated to Rea, the mother of the gods. Apparently the ancients worshipped Rea in this temple with orgies. The foundations of the philippeion, west of the Temple of Hera, are the remains of a circular construction with Ionic columns built by Philip of Macedon to commemorate the Battle of Khaironeia (338 BC), where he defeated a combined army of Athenians and Thebans. The building contained statues of Philip and his family. North of the philippeion was the prytaneum, the magistrate s residence. Here, winning athletes were entertained and feasted. Sleeping Camping Diana (% ; fax ; camp sites per adult/tent/car 7/5/5; hyear-round; s) A well-run place, nestled on a leafy hillside and clearly signposted 250m west of the village. Hotel Hermes (% ; fax ; s/d 30/40) This friendly, family-run option has basic, but spotless, rooms with linoleum floors. It s after the BP petrol station, and on the right-hand side as you come into town (from the south). Pension Posidon (% ; Stefanopoulou 9; s/d/tr 35/40/45) The owner is justifiably proud of his recently renovated and centrally located simple, bright and airy rooms with balconies. Breakfast costs 5. Hotel Kronion (% ; s 42-45, d/t 55/70; a) Clean and spacious 1970sstyle option and helpful multilingual owner. Hotel Pelops (%/fax ; Varela 2; s/d/tr/ste incl breakfast 48/60/84/110;nai) Among the town s best contenders, with light, spacious and comfortable rooms, opposite the church. Gasp! there s even nonsmoking rooms. The friendly Greek-Australian owners have a wealth of knowledge about the area. The buffet breakfast is fit for an athlete. On offer each night is the Pelops Platter, a massive dish of gourmet mezedhes. Best Western Hotel Europa International (% ; hoteleuropa@hellasnet.gr; s/d/tr 90/130/150; pais) It may have a franchise name and is popular with groups, but this family-owned hotel (1km west of town) wins the gold medal for its warmth and efficiency. The large, luxurious rooms offer balcony vistas. A bar, restaurant, swimming pool, tennis court and a decent pool-side taverna (under the shade of olive trees) add value to its winning streak. Eating There s no outstanding favourites among Olympia s restaurants; with so many one-off customers passing through, they lack incentive to strive for excellence. You re better off heading to the tiny hamlet of Miraka, 2km from Ancient Olympia, or the village of Floka, 1.5km north. At the time of research the village road to Miraka from Olympia was diverted, thanks to the discovery of archaeological treasures beneath its surface. Ask locals the way via the new national road. O Thea (% ; mains 5-8; hlunch & dinner Apr-Oct) It s worth the effort to venture uphill (even on foot) to the small village of Floka, 1.5km north of Olympia, for hearty traditional taverna fare. Enjoy the grills, zucchini balls ( 3) and views of Floka from the large terrace. That is, if the locals don t beat you to it. It s open irregularly outside high season. Taverna Drosia (% ; mains ) A strong contender in Miraka village s culinary race, this taverna offers diners a good range of fresh appetisers, as well as flavoursome mains, including lamb fricassee with wild greens. Taverna Bacchus (% ; tavern.gr; mains 6-12; hlunch & dinner; asp) The god of wine, Bacchus, has extended his portfolio to include delectable delights with fresh ingredients in this smart stone taverna in nearby Miraka. Don t miss the lamb with oregano ( 12). The restaurant is on new premises with accommodation (per room including breakfast 70), a pool and lovely valley views. Mmmm, now where s Cupid? Best Western Hotel Europa International (% ; mains ; hlunch & dinner) Familiar Greek dishes and veggies (from the family farm), served in a hotel-style dining room. The summer taverna under the olive trees deserves a laurel or two (open June to September). Self-caterers will find a good supermarket near the Shell petrol station. Getting There & Away BUS There is no direct service from Olympia to Athens. Eight or so of the 16 buses (reduced schedule on Sunday) go via Pyrgos ( 1.70) and allow time to connect for services to Athens (see p219 ). From Olympia, there are also buses east to Tripoli ( 10.60, three hours, at least two daily), and on weekdays to Dimitsana ( 6.20, 2½ hours). For these services, buy your ticket in advance from the small KTEL Arkadia outlet situated on the main street, one block before the church. TRAIN Train services from Olympia head to Pyrgos only there are five local departures daily ( 0.70, 30 minutes). From Pyrgos, you can catch connections to other destinations. Note: to get to Athens, take the train to Corinth, where you must change for the new train to Athens. ANDRITSENA ΑΝΔΡIΤΣΑΙΝΑ pop 575 The village of Andritsena, situated 65km southeast of Pyrgos, hovers on a hillside overlooking the valley of the River Alfios. Crumbling stone houses, some with rickety wooden balconies, flank the village s narrow cobbled streets and a stream gushes and bubbles its way through the central square, Agnostopoulou. Keep an eye out for the fountain emerging from the trunk of a huge plane tree. Andritsena makes an appealing base from which to visit the magnificent Temple of Vasses, a World Heritage listed site, located some 14km away from the village. Information An ATE Bank ATM and the post office (h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) are near the central square. Sights NIKOLOPOULOS ANDRITSENA LIBRARY You don t need to be a reader to appreciate this stunning legacy of Nikolopoulos at this library (% ; admission free; h8am-3pm Tue-Sat). In 1838 he donated 4000 rare books then one of Europe s largest private collections, including a book from 1502 and a 1657 Bible with rare binding to his father s home town to establish a school. The nearby village of Stemnitsa donated another 4000 books and today the collection is on display, along with manuscripts from Greece s 1821 Independence Movement. Don t miss the short explanatory video in English. The library is housed above the town s lending library behind Hotel Theoxenia. TEMPLE OF VASSES Situated on a wild, isolated spot overlooking rugged mountains and hills, the World Heritage listed Temple of Vasses (% ; adult/concession 3/2; h8am-8pm) is one of Greece s most romantic and atmospheric archaeological sites. The 14km road from Andritsena climbs along a mountain ridge, taking you through increasingly dramatic scenery, until you arrive at the temple, which stands at an altitude of 1200m. The striking and well-preserved temple is robbed of some of its splendour and PELOPONNESE

118 224 KYTHIRA & ANTIKYTHIRA Kythira Book accommodation online at KYTHIRA & ANTIKYTHIRA 225 PELOPONNESE immediate visual impact by the giant (and semipermanent) steel-girded tent enclosing it, as it undergoes a slow restoration programme, but it s magnificent all the same. The temple was built in 420 BC by the people of nearby Figalia, who dedicated it to Apollo Epicurus (the Helper) for delivering them from the plague. Designed by Ictinus, the architect of the Parthenon, the temple combines Doric and Ionic columns and a single Corinthian column the earliest example of this order. No public buses run to Vasses. In summer it s sometimes possible to find people in the central square to share a taxi for about 20 to 25 return. Sleeping & Eating Epikourios Apollon (% ; Agnostopoulou; s/d incl breakfast 50/75;hyear-round) This guesthouse-cum-hotel has well-equipped, warm and cheerful rooms overlooking the central square or the valley behind. For eating, try any of the half a dozen casual tavernas and grill places spread along the main street. Getting There & Away There are buses to Pyrgos (around 5, 1½ hours, two daily except Sunday), and to Athens (around 8, two hours, two daily) via Karitena, Megalopoli, Tripoli and Corinth. KYLLINI ΚΥΛΛΗΝΗ The port of Kyllini (kih-lee-nih), 78km southwest of Patra, warrants a mention merely as the jumping-off point for ferries to Kefallonia and Zakynthos. Most people arrive on buses from Patra that board the ferries. Getting There & Away BUS There are three to seven buses daily to Kyllini ( 6.50, 1¼ hours) from the Zakynthos bus station in Patra, as well as at least two daily from Pyrgos ( 4.60, one hour). FERRY There are boats to Zakynthos (per person/ car 6.50/29.90, 1¼ hours, up to six daily), and to Poros (per person/car 8/37.70, 1½ hours, up to five daily) and Argostoli (per person/car 12.50/44.50, two hours, one daily) on Kefallonia. Check ries.gr as schedules change regularly. KYTHIRA & ANTIKYTHIRA KYTHIRA ΚYΘΗΡΑ pop 3334 The island of Kythira (kee-thih-rah), 12km south of Neapoli, is perfect for people who want to experience a genuine, functioning and unspoilt island. Some 30km long and 18km wide, Kythira dangles off the tip of the Peloponnese s Lakonian peninsula, between the Aegean and Ionian Seas. The largely barren landscape is dominated by a rocky plateau that covers most of the island, and the population is spread among more than 40 villages that capitalise on small pockets of agriculturally viable land. The villages are linked by narrow, winding lanes, often flanked by ancient dry-stone walls. Although Kythira is part of the Ionian Islands, some of the houses, especially those in the island s main town, Hora, are more Cycladic in looks, with whitewashed walls and blue shutters. Mythology suggests that Aphrodite was born in Kythira. She s meant to have risen from the foam where Zeus had thrown Cronos sex organ after castrating him. The goddess of love then re-emerged near Pafos in Cyprus, so both islands haggle over her birthplace. Tourism remains very low-key on Kythira for most of the year, until July and August, when the island goes mad. Descending visitors include the Kythiran diaspora returning from Australia to visit family and friends (who themselves have returned after leaving the island several decades ago). Accommodation is virtually impossible to find during this time, and restaurants are flat out catering for the crowds. For the remaining 10 months of the year, Kythira is a wonderfully peaceful island with some fine, uncrowded beaches. The best times to visit Kythira are in late spring and around September/October. For information on the island, see or GETTING THERE & AWAY Air In high season there are daily flights between Kythira and Athens ( 47 to 60, KYTHIRA & ANTIKYTHIRA I O N I A N S E A Cape Limnionas Cave of Agia Sofia Gerakari Petrouni Moni Myrtidion M E D I T E R R A N E A N S E A Cape Spathi Mylopotamos 507m Platia Ammos Karavas Stavli Katsoulianika Kato Hora Kalokerines Lianianika Potamos Logothetianika Kominianika Karvounades Pourko Agia Pelagia Frilingianika Pitsinianika Tsikalaria Fatsadika Livadi Mitata Fratsia Hora (Kythira) Kythira Strait Babakaradika Kastrisianika Aroniadika 410m Agia Elesis To Gythio (55km); Kalamata (100km) Fourni Hristoforianika 477m Trifyllianika Alexandrades Goudianika Travasarianika Skoulianika Strapodi Manitohori Viaradika Katouni Bridge Kato Livadi Katelouzianika Cape Trahilos Paliohora Kythira M Y R T O Ö N Kalamos Kapsali S E A Temple of Aphrodite To Neapoli (12km) 458m 0 4 km 0 2 miles 490m Paleopoli Fyri Ammos Vroulea Cape Kapello Antikythira Harhaliana Antikythira Same Scale as Main Map Diakofti Agia Moni Paleopoli Kaladi To Diakofti (30km); Crete (55km) Potamos S E A Galaniana To Antikythira (40km) (see inset); Crete (100km) Makronisi Island 389m Avlemonas Cape Modoni O F C R E T E To Piraeus (230km) PELOPONNESE

119 226 KYTHIRA & ANTIKYTHIRA Kythira Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at KYTHIRA & ANTIKYTHIRA Kythira 227 PELOPONNESE 40 minutes). The airport is 10km east of Potamos, and Olympic Airlines (% ) is on the central square in Potamos. Book also at Kythira Travel (% ) in Hora. Ferry The island s main connection is between Diakofti and Neapoli (per person/car 8.30/40, one hour) in the Peloponnese. The frequency of the service ranges from four times daily in July and August, down to once a day in winter. Tickets are sold at the quay just before departure, or at Kythira Travel (%in Hora , in Potamos ) in Hora and Potamos. ANEN Lines ( calls at the southern port of Diakofti on its weekly schedule between Piraeus, Kythira, Antikythira, Kissamos-Kastelli (Crete) and Gythio (Peloponnese). From mid-june to September there are two ferries weekly to Gythio ( 9.90, 2½ hours) and two to Kissamos-Kastelli ( 15.70, four hours), which call at Antikythira ( 9, two hours). There are also three services weekly to Piraeus ( 21.50, 6½ hours). Note: these change annually. Information and tickets are available from Porfyra Travel (%/fax ; porfyra@otenet.gr) in Livadi. See also -kithira-kythera.com for ferry schedules. GETTING AROUND Occasional buses may operate during August. There are taxis, but the best way to see the island is with your own transport. Panayotis at Moto Rent (% ; fax ) on Kapsali s waterfront rents cars and mopeds. Hora Χώρα pop 267 Hora (or Kythira), the island s capital, is a pretty village of Cycladic-style white, blueshuttered houses, perched on a long, slender ridge stretching north from an impressive 13th-century Venetian kastro. The central square, planted with hibiscus, bougainvillea and palms, is Dimitriou Staï. The main street, Spyridonos Staï, runs south from the central square to the kastro. INFORMATION Branches of the National Bank of Greece and Bank ATE, both with ATMs, are on the central square. Internet Service (Kodak shop, Spyridonos Staï; per hr 5; h9am-2pm & 6-9pm Mon-Sat) Travellers can check here. Police station (% ) Near the kastro. Post office (h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) On the central square. SIGHTS Hora s Venetian kastro (admission free; h8am-7pm), built in the 13th century, is at the southern end of town. If you walk to its southern extremity, passing the Church of Panagia, you will come to a sheer cliff from here there s a stunning view of Kapsali and, on a good day, of Antikythira. Call in to Stavros (% ), a shop north of the square (opposite the turn-off to Kapsali) and pick up some of the local produce, including Greece s best honey. At the time of research, the town s archaeological museum, north of the central square, was closed due to damage from the earth tremor in January SLEEPING Castello Rooms (% ; jfatseas@otenet.gr; d/tr 40/55; a) These comfortable rooms represent the best deal in town, if not the island. Set back from the main street, this place is surrounded by a well-tended garden full of flowers, vegetables and fruit trees. The rooms have TV and some have kitchen facilities. It s signposted at the southern end of Spiridonos Staϊ. Hotel Margarita (% ; rita.com; off Spyridonos Staϊ; s/d incl breakfast 90/100; a) This white-walled, blue-shuttered and generally charming hotel offers atmospheric rooms (all with TV and telephone) in a renovated 19thcentury mansion, featuring B&W marble floors and a quirky old spiral staircase. The whitewashed terrace affords fantastic port views. Zorba s (% ) The pick of the bunch for the town s meals and highly recommended by locals. Kapsali Kαψάλι pop 34 The scenic village of Kapsali, 2km south of Hora, served as Hora s port in Venetian times. It features twin sandy bays and a curving waterfront; this looks striking viewed from Hora s castle. Restaurants and cafés line the beach, and safe sheltered swimming is Kapsali s trademark. However, it can get crowded in high season. Offshore you can see the stark rock island known as Itra or Avgo (Egg), rearing above the water. Some Kytherians believe that this was the place Aphrodite sprang from the sea. Kapsali goes into hibernation in winter, coming to life between April and October. There s a small supermarket, and the Kytherian Gallery sells international newspapers as well as souvenirs. It s worth grabbing a copy of the community newspaper Kythera, published in English. ACTIVITIES Panayotis at Moto Rent (% ), on the waterfront, offers water-skiing lessons, and rents canoes and pedal boats as well as cars, mopeds and bicycles. SLEEPING & EATING Camping Kapsali (% ; camp sites per adult/ tent 5/4.50; hjun-15 Sep) This small, quiet pineshaded camping ground (signposted on the road from Hora) has minimum facilities. It s 400m from Kapsali s quay, behind the village. Cengo Hotel (% ; afrodite@aias.gr; s/d/tr 95/110/130; a) This modest place is located above and behind the Cengo Cafe Bar. The rooms are clean and adequate. Six rooms have balconies and a few have a view of the water. Only worth considering if you want to be close to the village action. Spitia Vassilis (% ; lowsvasili.gr; d 110, tr & q 120; p) This attractive green-and-white complex of studios has the perfect setting away from the hordes and overlooking Kapsali. The spacious rooms feature that rustic-painted-timberfloor look (one of the owner-artists has let loose with the brush) and good bay views. It is on the right as you approach Kapsali from Hora. Olga, the friendly manager, knows all there is to know. Raikos Hotel (% ; d/tr incl breakfast 160/192; pas) Signposted off the Hora Kapsali road is this very smart, friendly hotel, offering spacious, pleasantly decorated rooms with terraces overlooking Kapsali and Hora s kastro. There s a lovely pool and bar area, too. Hydragogio (% ; mains 5-12, fish per kg 20-70) Occupying a great spot overlooking the beach at the far end by the rocks, and specialising in fresh fish and mezedhes (with a good vegetarian range), this is a good place to splurge on lobster (per kg 70) if your budget stretches that far. Estiatorio Magos (% ; mains ) The magos (magician) in question is owner Antonis, who magically whips up lobster with spaghetti (lobster per kg 80) and a tasty fish soup ( 4). Potamos Ποταμός pop 680 Potamos, 10km southwest of Agia Pelagia, is the island s commercial hub. Its Sunday morning flea market seems to attract just about everyone on the island. INFORMATION The National Bank of Greece (with ATM) is on the central square. Kafe Selana (% ; per hr 3) On the central square; has internet access. Post office (h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Just north of the central square. SLEEPING & EATING Taverna Panaretos (% ; mains 6-10) This place is a natural it s open yearround, popular with locals and uses homegrown everything, from oil to veggies and cheese. Want to try wild goat with olive oil and oregano ( 8) or eggplant on coals ( 3.50)? Naturally. Mylopotamos Μυλοπόταμος pop 70 Mylopotamos is a quaint village nestled in a small valley, 12km southwest of Potamos. Its central square is flanked by a charming church and authentically traditional Kafeneio O Platanos (% ), which in summer becomes a restaurant with an outdoor setting in the square. It s worth a stroll to the Neraïda (water nymph) waterfall, with luxuriant greenery and mature, shady trees. As you reach the church, take the right fork and follow the signs to an unpaved road leading down to the falls. (Alternatively, you can head there on foot follow the signs after the church.) To reach the abandoned kastro of Mylopotamos, take the left fork after the kafeneio and follow the old faded sign for Kato Hora (Lower Village) and then the modern signs to the Cave of Agia Sofia. The road leads to the centre of Kato Hora, from where a portal leads into the spooky kastro, with derelict houses and well-preserved little churches (usually locked). Further along the same road is the Cave of Agia Sofia, reached by a precipitous, unpaved 2km road. The staff at Kafeneio O Platanos can tell you when it s open (in summer only). PELOPONNESE

120 228 KYTHIRA & ANTIKYTHIRA Antikythira Book accommodation online at www. Lonely Planet Publications 229 PELOPONNESE If you fall in love with the history of this place, stay at the comfortable, and newly converted studio apartments (% ; d 65-75) of Pula Stratiga, or inquire at Kafeneio O Platanos about options. Agia Pelagia Αγία Πελαγία pop 280 Kythira s northern port of Agia Pelagia is a simple, friendly waterfront village, although sadly, this is on the verge of being ruined by modern buildings, as are the sand-and-pebble beaches either side of the quay. Nevertheless, it s pleasant for relaxing, and Red, south of the headland, is a good swimming spot. SLEEPING & EATING Hotel Pelagia Aphrodite (% /7; pelagia@otenet.gr; s/d/tr 65/80/105; hapr-sep; pa) This Greek-Australian-run place is modern and spotless with large, airy rooms, most with balconies overlooking the sea. Its perfect location is a small headland on the southern edge of the village. Breakfast is 7. Stellas (% ; mains 6-11) You can t go wrong with any of the options along the waterfront; we like this for its unpretentious, family atmosphere. It serves reliable trad i- tional Greek favourites from mezedhes to meats. Try Stella s veal ( 7). Around Kythira If you have transport, a spin round the island is rewarding. The monasteries of Agia Moni and Agia Elesis are mountain refuges with superb views. Moni Myrtidion is a beautiful monastery surrounded by trees. From Hora, drive northeast to Avlemonas, via Paleopoli with its wide, pebbled beach. Archaeologists spent years searching for evidence of a temple at Aphrodite s birthplace at Avlemonas. Don t miss the spectacularly situated ruins of the Byzantine capital of Paliohora, in the island s northeast, fun for exploring. Just north of the village of Kato Livadi make a detour to see the architecturally anomalous Katouni Bridge, a British-built legacy of Kythira s time as part of the British Protectorate in the 19th century. In the far north of the island the village of Karavas is verdant, very attractive and close to both Agia Pelagia and the reasonable beach at Platia Ammos. combers should seek out Kaladi, near Paleopoli. Fyri Ammos, closer to Hora, is another good beach but hard to access. EATING Varkoula (% ; Platia Ammos; mains 5-7; hlunch & dinner daily May-Oct, Fri & Sat Nov-Mar) Locals rave about this little boat (varkoula). Where else can you enjoy freshly cooked fish to the tunes of the bouzouki-strumming owner and his cardiologist guitar-playing friend? Athena s famous fried bread with cheese is a real heart stopper. It s a beat away from Karavas, in the island s north. As it s a decent drive north, ring ahead first to confirm opening hours. Estiatorion Pierros (% ; Livadi; mains 4-8; fish per kg 50) Since 1933 this family-run and long-standing favourite has served nononsense Greek staples. Visit the kitchen to view the daily offerings there s no menu. On the main road through Livadi. Sotiris (% ; Avlemonas; hlunch & dinner) This popular fish taverna in pretty Avlemonas has good lobster and fish soup (fish and lobster is priced per kilo). Skandia (% ; Paleopolis; mains 6-8; hlunch & dinner) By all reports, it s currently the place to eat on the island, mainly because of its setting: near water, under shady elm trees, in a homey environment. Its fish is priced per kg. Psarotaverna H Manolis (% ; fish & lobster per kg 40-75; hlunch & dinner) A star among Diakofti s uninspiring port setting. Locals head here for the excellent fresh fish and seasonal offerings. ANTIKYTHIRA ΑΝΤΙΚΥΘΗΡΑ pop 20 The tiny island of Antikythira, 38km southeast of Kythira, is the most remote island in the Ionians. It has only one settlement (Potamos), one doctor, one police officer, one telephone and a monastery. It has no post office or bank. The only accommodation option is 10 basic rooms in two purpose-built blocks, open in summer only. Potamos has a kafeneio-cum-taverna. Getting There & Away The ferry company ANEN Lines ( calls at Antikythira on its route between Kythira and Kissamos-Kastelli on Crete, offering three services a week in each direction; single-leg tickets cost around 9.10 and take two hours, while the through journey, Kythira Crete, is around This is not an island for tourists on a tight schedule and will probably only appeal to those who really like isolation. For information and tickets, contact Porfyra Travel (%/fax ; porfyra@otenet.gr) in Livadi on Kythira. Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content. PELOPONNESE

121 C e n t r a l G r e e c e Κεντρική Ελλάδα Lonely Planet Publications 229 It s no coincidence that the rugged terrain of central Greece was the setting for heroic struggles among the gods and mortals. Journeys to this region provide glimpses of the essential character of the Greek people, along with plenty of outdoor adventures and unforgettable landscapes. The ruins at Delphi, where Alexander the Great sought the advice of the famous oracle of Delphi, remain one of Greece s most inspiring archaeological sites and are also the starting point for hikes that follow ancient footpaths. The northern region of Thessaly is home to the monastery-topped pinnacles of Meteora, with buildings dating from the 14th century. The spectacular columns of rock are not only a mecca for Greek Orthodox pilgrims, but also home to world-class rock climbing, with over 100 sandstone peaks and towers to choose from. To the east lies the Pelion Peninsula, crisscrossed with old cobblestone donkey paths that link lush mountain hamlets with seaside coves and fishing villages. Sandy beaches rival the best of the Aegean islands, but without the crowds. According to Greek mythology, it was in nearby Volos that Jason and the Argonauts set sail in search of the Golden Fleece, in a boat made from timbers of the Pelion forests. Overlooking the Gulf of Corinth, the steep slopes of Mt Parnassos invite modern-day hikers to retrace ancient walking trails. River-rafting opportunities abound in the South Pindos ranges, and the high alpine meadows are perfect for breezy summer hikes. To the south, nearer to Athens, are the Byzantine frescoes of Osios Loukas, the most famous in Greece. And to the southwest, natural wetlands and wildlife sanctuaries stretch from the Corinthian Gulf west to the Ionian Sea. CENTRAL GREECE HIGHLIGHTS Live Music Dancing in the bouzouki clubs in the old Palaia district of Volos ( p253 ) Go with the flow White-water river rafting in the Tria Potamia ( p264 ) region Walking Haven Following the cobblestone village trails of the Pelion Peninsula ( p254 ) Don t Look Down Climbing the Tower of the Holy Ghost rock pinnacle at Meteora ( p267 ) Meditative Moment Seeking a sunrise at the Sanctuary of Athena ( p234 ) in Ancient Delphi Tria Potamia Klisova Lagoon Meteora Thermopylae Ancient Delphi Photo Op Spotting great cormorant and egret seabirds diving into Klisova Lagoon ( p242 ) Historical Experience Standing where 300 Spartans bravely defended Thermopylae ( p246 ) Volos Pelion Peninsula POPULATION: 1.9 MILLION AREA : 37,042 SQ KM

122 230 STEREA ELLADA Thiva (Thebes) Book accommodation online at STEREA ELLADA 231 CENTRAL GREECE STEREA ELLADA ΣΤΕΡΕΑ ΕΛΛΑΔΑ Wherever you go in Sterea Ellada, the mythology and history of Greece seem to mingle in the rugged and scenic landscape. On the slopes of Mt Parnassos, overlooking the Gulf of Corinth, sits Delphi, regarded by the ancient Greeks as the centre of the world. Beyond Delphi, the lands stretch east to Attica, where legendary King Oedipus met his fate, and west to Messolongi, where British bard Lord Byron died of fever during the Greek War of Independence. In fact, the region acquired the name Sterea Ellada (Mainland Greece) in 1827, as part of the newly formed Greek state. Sterea Ellada is bordered by the narrow gulfs of Corinth and Patra in the south, and Epiros to the north. This mountainous region is known as the Agrafa or unrecorded, so named during the Turkish occupation, when the hard-to-reach mountain villages were written off for tax purposes as uncollectable. Today, these same mountains are prized for their beauty, and explored by hikers and river rafters alike. THIVA (THEBES) ΘHΒΑ pop 22,100 Thiva, the birthplace of Hercules and Dionysos, was a powerful city-state in 400 BC during Greece s golden age, occupying a strategic position between northern Greece and the Peloponnese. The tragic fate of its royal dynasty, centred on the myth of Oedipus, rivalled that of ancient Mycenae. Present-day Thiva has few vestiges of its past glory, except those that can be viewed within the Archaeological Museum (see right ). After the Trojan War in the 12th century BC, Thiva became the dominant city of the Boeotia region. In 371 BC the city was victorious in battle against once-invincible Sparta. Thiva s glorious run ended abruptly in 335 BC, when it was sacked by Alexander the Great for rebelling against Macedonian control and siding with Persia. Alexander spared the temples, but not 6000 Thebans who died in the bloody battle. Another 30,000 were taken prisoner. Archaeological Museum In keeping with its history, Thiva has an impressive Archaeological Museum (% ; admission 2; h8am-2.30pm Tue-Sat) documenting its place in Greek history and mythology. However, the museum is closed for renovations and not scheduled to reopen until The collection includes tablets of Linear B script and jewellery found in the Mycenaean palaces, along with terracotta masks and decorated sarcophagi, unique to mainland Greece. Sleeping & Eating Hotel Niovi (% ; Epaminonda 63; s/d incl breakfast 38/43; ai) Look for the red-and-black sign at the well-managed Niovi, adjacent to the plateia (square). Rates include buffet breakfast, free wi-fi and satellite TV. Dionysos Restaurant (% ; mains ) Friendly owner and host Kypriotakis boasts of his oven-ready dishes such as lamb in lemon sauce, and pastitsio (layers of buttery macaroni and seasoned minced lamb) made in the old Greek way at this welcoming eatery on the square. Getting There & Away Buses operate to Athens ( 7, 1½ hours, hourly) and Livadia ( 3.90, 45 minutes, five daily) from Thiva s central bus station (% ), 500m north of the central plateia. Trains from Thiva station (% ) depart for Athens (normal/express 3.50/9.20, 75/60 minutes, 10 daily), and Thessaloniki (normal/express 12.60/32.50, four/5½ hours, four daily). AROUND THIVA The well-preserved 4th-century Fortress of Eleftherae, guarding the Kaza Pass over Mt Kythairon, stands between Athens and Thiva. According to mythology, baby Oedipus was left to perish on this mountain bordering ancient Attica before being rescued by a shepherd. History buffs can also inspect the ruins near Erythres, where the Battle of Plataea (479 BC) took place, marking the end of the Persian Wars. A road branching off to Porto Germeno leads to 4th-century-BC Aigosthena, with the best-preserved fortress walls in all Greece. If you want to travel here en route from Athens to Delphi, the best way is via the national highway, with a turn-off that takes 0 50 km 0 30 miles STEREA ELLADA Pelion Peninsula To Larisa (20km); Thessaloniki (175km) Karditsa Volos To Trikala (20km); Kalambaka (53km) To Ioannina (18km) SPORADES Alonnisos Farsala EPIROS Skiathos Lake Plastiras Peristera Pagasitikos Gulf THESSALY Lake Arahthos To Parga (63km) Almyros Arta Skantzoura A E G E A N Skopelos Trikeri E951 E75 Mt Orthys (1726m) Mt Velouhi (2312) Mt Tymfristos Glyfa E65 (2315m) Makri See Thessaly Map (p248) Ambracian Gulf Stylida Preveza Aktion (14km) To Skyros S E A Loutra Edipsou E952 Lamia Ipati Arkitsa Kamena Vourla Theologos Agios Konstantinos Kymi Amfiklia Iti National Park Pavliani Gulf of Evia Karpenisi Fidakia Tymfristos Loutra Koryshades Ipatis Mikro Horio Mt Tymfristos Megalo Horio Tunnel Gavros Mt Iti Krikello (2114m) Prousos Mt Moni Kaliakouda Panagias (2098m) Agrinio Proussiotissas Ano Hora Lake Kremasta Maliakos Gulf Vonitsa Amfilohia Paleros Thermopylae ETOLO- AKARNANIA Lake Amvrakia E55 Mytikas Meganisi Kalamos Evia Parnassos National Park Thermo Orhomenos Kifissos Amfissa Aheloös Lefkada Mt Parnassos (2457m) Lake Mornos Lake Trihonida Astakos Halkida Kastro Davlia Arahova Eretria Livadia Distomo Delphi Kira Ancient Delphi Itea E65 Kastos Atokos Monastiraki Etoliko Ithaki E75 Agios Nikolaos Nafpaktos Gulf of Evia Messolongi Vathy Skala Oropou Thiva (Thebes) Galaxidi Trizonia E65 Andirio Plataea Moni Osios Loukas Lagoon Klisova Piso Aetos Nea Styra Sami Gulf of Corinth Gulf of Patra I O N I A N Marmari S E A Rafina Erythres Mt Parnitha Fortress of (1413m) Agia Eleftherae Marina E962 Elefsina (Eleusis) E95 Piraeus ATHENS Salamina Flisvos Egio Rio Rio-Andirio Bridge Oxia Fortress of Aigosthena Patra Kefallonia Poros Porto Germeno Alkionides Gulf Xylokastro E55 Megara Kiato Kalavryta Loutraki E65 Petalia Gulf PELOPONNESE Kechries Bay Corinth ATTICA Salamina Kyllini Zakynthos Kechries Vouliagmeni To the Cyclades (20km) Amaliada Lavrio Saronic Gulf Aegina Town Zakynthos Town Sounion E65 Angistri Korissia To the Cyclades (10km) Aegina To Crete (200km) Argos Kea Cape Sounion To Kalamata (100km) To Kalamata (116km) Pyrgos CENTRAL GREECE

123 232 STEREA ELLADA Livadia Book accommodation online at STEREA ELLADA Delphi 233 CENTRAL GREECE you west through Thiva and Livadia. However, with your own transport and a yen for history, you can also reach Thiva by means of a winding mountain road, which begins 2km west of Elefsina (Eleusis). LIVADIA ΛΙΒΑΔΕΙA pop 20,600 Livadia is on the Athens Delphi road, 45km northwest of Thiva. The town flanks both sides of a gorge through which the River Erkynas flows. A 14th-century Frankish castle overlooks the town, and the shaded Kryes (cold) springs grant Livadia worthwhilestopover status on the road to Delphi. Livadia s two springs are associated in mythology with the oracle of Trophonios. Pilgrims seeking advice were required to first drink from the Fountain of Lethe (Forgetfulness) and then from the Fountain of Mnemosyne (Memory). Both springs are still bubbling away, on either side of a smart café-bar where the River Erkynas begins, a 1km walk from the town square (plateia). Sleeping & Eating Hotel Levadia (% ; s/d/tr incl breakfast 60/75/95; a) Should you need to linger, the Levadia is reliably old-fashioned, clean and friendly. The hotel faces the central Kotsoni. Several attractive cafés and restaurants overlook the river. For a touch of history, try Neromylos (% ; mains 4-10; hdinner), set in a restored 19th-century flour mill, with a small stream running through the restaurant. Kitchen favourites include kleftiko (slow-oven-baked lamb) and grilled pork. Nearby, the popular Cafe Xenia (% ; snacks 2-4) sports a piano bar and sits directly over the springs. Getting There & Away There are frequent buses travelling between Livadia and Athens ( 10.60, two hours, hourly). From Athens, take the bus from Terminal B (off Map p100 ; % ; Liosion 260, Kato Patisia). In Livadia, the Athens-bound station (% ) is on the east side of the plateia. On the south side of the plateia is the station (% ) for Delphi ( 3.60, 40 minutes, nine daily), Amfissa ( 5.40, 70 minutes) and Distomo (for Moni Osiou Louka; 2.20, 35 minutes). THE OEDIPUS CROSSROADS A traveller can still see the spot where three roads meet, as described by the ancient playwright Sophocles. This fateful junction was where proud Oedipus encountered his father, King Laius, thus fulfilling the powerful Delphic oracle s tragic prophecy that he would unknowingly murder his father and marry his mother. To find the actual Oedipus crossroads (heading west from Livadia towards Delphi), look first for the road sign to Distomo, and 1km on for a sign to Davlia. Proceed uphill another 1.5km to the carpark (P) on the right. Look down and to the right to glimpse visible traces of an ancient crossing, perhaps the narrow meeting of roads and fate. Although there are 10 trains travelling to/from Athens daily (normal/express 4.10/8.10, 95/75 minutes), the bus is a much more popular option, given the 6km gap between the out-of-the-way station and Livadia s main plateia. DELPHI ΔΕΛΦΟI pop 2800 If the ancient Greeks hadn t chosen Delphi as their navel of the earth and built the Sanctuary of Apollo here, someone else would have thought of a good reason to make this eagle s eyrie village a tourist attraction. Its location on a precipitous cliff edge is spectacular and, despite its overt commercialism and the constant passage of tour buses through the modern village, it still has a special feel. Modern Delphi is 178km northwest of Athens and is the base for exploring one of Greece s major tourist sites. History Delphi s renown reached its height between the 6th and 4th centuries BC, when multitudes of pilgrims came to ask advice of its oracle, who was believed to speak for Apollo (see the boxed text on p235 ). Although Delphi was protected by the Amphictyonic League, a federation of Greek states, the surrounding territory belonged to Krisa. The first of several territorial disputes over Delphi led to the First Sacred War ( BC), in which the league destroyed the port of Krisa, and then took control of the sacred sanctuary, making Delphi an autonomous state that enjoyed great prosperity from numerous benefactors, including the kings of Lydia and Egypt, and Hadrian. In 191 BC, Delphi was taken by the Romans, and in 86 BC, the Roman Sulla plundered the sanctuary. But other emperors, fascinated by its reputation, kept the rituals at Delphi alive, well into the 2nd century AD, when the oracle s influence began to dwindle for issues ranging from religious and political to personal. The sanctuary struggled along until it was abolished by the Christian emperor Theodosius in the late 4th century AD. Orientation & Information Almost everything you ll need in Delphi is on Vasileon Pavlou & Friderikis. Delphi s other through roads are Apollonos, which runs north of and parallel to Vasileon Pavlou & Friderikis, and Filellinon, which runs south and parallel to the main drag. Four steep stairways transverse all three roads. The small bus station is on Vasileon Pavlou & Friderikis next to Taverna Gargaduas on the Itea side of town. The post office, Organismos Tilepikinonion Ellados (OTE) and banks are also on this street. Ancient Delphi (comprising the Archaeological Museum and site) is 500m along the pine-shaded main road to Arahova. You ll find information at the Municipal tourist office (% ; h7.30am-2.30pm Mon-Fri), toward the Arahova end of Vasileon Pavlou & Friderikis. There are internet facilities at Delphiko Internet Café (Vasileon Pavlou & Friderikis 54; per hr 3.50; h6.30am-2am) and Parnassos Café (Vasileon Pavlou & Friderikis 32; per hr 4; h7.30am-midnight). Sights ANCIENT DELPHI Of all the archaeological sites in Greece, Ancient Delphi ( is the one with the most potent spirit of place. Built on the slopes of Mt Parnassos, overlooking the Gulf of Corinth and extending into a valley of cypress and olive trees, this World Heritage listed site s allure lies both in its stunning setting and its inspiring ruins. The ancient Greeks regarded Delphi as the centre of the world; according to mythology, Zeus released two eagles at opposite ends of the world and they met here. In summer, try to visit the site early to avoid the crowds and the heat. READ ON For an entertaining rundown on the complex relationships (marital and extramarital) of the ancient Greek gods, read Harold Newman s A Genealogical Chart of Greek Mythology (2003). In Ruins: A Journey Through History, Art, and Literature (2003) by Christopher Woodward chronicles the human love affair with all things broken, starting with Greek archaeological finds. Sanctuary of Apollo The Sanctuary of Apollo is on the left of the main road as you walk towards Arahova. Just to the right of the entrance, notice the brickwork of the Roman agora. From the main entrance, the steps on your right lead to the Sacred Way, which winds gradually up to the foundations of the Doric Temple of Apollo. Entering the site, you pass several stone bases. The first is the pedestal which held the statue of a bull dedicated by the city of Corfu (Kerkyra). Just beyond it, on the right, are the remains of the Votive Offering of Lacedaemon, commemorating a battle victory. The next two semicircular structures on either side of the Sacred Way were erected by the Argives (people of Argos). On the right was the Kings of Argos Monument. In ancient times the Sacred Way was lined with treasuries and statues given by grateful city-states Thiva (Thebes), Siphnos, Sikyon, Athens and Knidos in thanks to Apollo. To the north of the reconstructed Athenian treasury are the foundations of the bouleuterion (council house). The remains of the 4th-century-BC Temple of Apollo dominated the entire sanctuary with a (possibly) gold statue of Apollo and a hearth where an eternal flame burned. On the temple vestibule were inscriptions of Greek philosophers, such as Know Thyself and Nothing in Excess. Above the temple is the well-preserved 4th-century-BC theatre, which was restored by the Pergamenon kings in the 1st century BC, yielding magnificent views from the top row. Plays were performed here during the Pythian Festival, held, like the Olympic Games, every four years. From the theatre the path continues to the stadium, which happens to be the best-preserved in all of Greece. CENTRAL GREECE

124 234 STEREA ELLADA Delphi Book accommodation online at STEREA ELLADA Delphi 235 CENTRAL GREECE Check out the sprinters etched-stone starting blocks. From the Sanctuary of Apollo, the paved path towards Arahova runs parallel to the main road and leads to the Castalian Spring on the left, where pilgrims cleansed themselves before consulting the oracle. Between the Castilian Spring and the Sanctuary of Athena, you will find the remains of an ancient gymnasium. Two running tracks occupied an upper terrace here; on a lower terrace, boxers and wrestlers practised their art and then cooled off in the large, springfed circular pool, which is still visible among the ruins. Sanctuary of Athena Opposite the Castalian Spring is the Sanctuary of Athena, the site of the 4th-century-BC tholos (rotunda), the most striking of Delphi s monuments. This graceful circular structure comprised 20 columns on a three-stepped podium three of its columns were re-erected in the 1940s. (The white portions of each column are the original marble; the darker portions are new material.) Ruins of Wall To Delphi (500m) 12 A 8 17 Sanctuary of Apollo SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Athenian Treasury... 1 B2 Bouleuterion (Council House)... 2 B2 Castalian Spring... 3 C2 Gymnasium... 4 C2 Kings of Argos Monument... 5 B2 Knidos Treasury... 6 B2 Main Entrance... 7 C2 Museum... 8 A2 Roman Agora... 9 C2 Sikyon Treasury B2 B Sacred Way Delphi Museum Ancient Delphi managed to amass a considerable treasure trove, and this is reflected in its magnificent museum (% ; adult site or museum 6, adult/student site & museum 9/ 5, free Sun Nov-Mar; hmuseum 7.30am- 7.30pm daily Apr-Oct, 8.30am-6.45pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-3pm Sat, Sun & public holidays Nov-Mar; site 7.30am-7.30pm Apr- Oct, 8am-5pm Nov-Mar). Upon entering the museum, in Room 3 you ll first notice parts of the frieze from the Siphnian treasury, which depicts not only the battle between the gods and the giants, but also the Judgment of Paris, who was called upon to decide which goddess was most beautiful (he chose Aphrodite). Also residing in this room is the Sphinx of the Naxians, dating from 560 BC. In Room 4 are two fine examples of 6th-century-BC kouroi, the twins of Argos. In the rooms to the left are fragments of metopes (figures within the frieze) from the Athenian treasury depicting the Labours of Hercules, the Exploits of Theseus and the Battle of the Amazons. Further on you can t miss the tall Acanthus Column of Dancers, with ANCIENT DELPHI & SANCTUARY OF APOLLO 0 50 m 7 9 C Papadia Ravine 3 4 Circular Pool Siphnos Treasury B2 Stadium A1 Statue of Bull of Kerkyra C2 Stoa of Attalos B1 Temple of Apollo B2 Temple of Athena D3 Theatre A1 Thiva Treasury B2 Tholos D3 Votive Offering of Lacedaemon B2 Extent Mt Parnassos (2457m) Steps Sanctuary of Athena 16 of Ancient Town D To Arahova (12km); Athens (178km) 19 THE DELPHIC ORACLE The Delphic oracle, the most powerful in Greece, sat on a tripod at the entrance to a chasm that emitted intoxicating vapours. A popular story proposes that the earliest oracles were young women who regularly ran off with their advice-seeking pilgrims, leaving the post temporarily vacant. Hence it became customary for the appointed seer (Pythia) to be at least 50 years of age. When she was consulted for divine advice, the priestess inhaled the fumes and entered a trance. Her inspired, if a little vague, answers were translated into verse by a priest. In fact, the oracle s reputation for infallibility may have rested with the often ambiguous or cryptic answers. Wars were fought, marriages were sealed and journeys begun on the strength of the oracle s visions. Legend holds that one oracle suffered for her vagueness, whether vapour-induced or not. When Alexander the Great visited, hoping to hear a prophecy that he would soon conquer the ancient world, the oracle refused direct comment, instead asking that he return later. Enraged, he dragged her by the hair out of the chamber until she screamed, Let go of me; you re unbeatable. He quickly dropped her, saying I have my answer. three women dancing around its top. Next to it is the omphalos, a sculpted cone that once stood at what was considered the centre of the world. In the end room is the celebrated life-size Bronze Charioteer, which commemorates a victory in the Pythian Games of 478 or 474 BC. SIKELIANOS MUSEUM Fans of Greek drama should head to the intimate Sikelianos Museum (% ; admission 1; h9am-3pm Thu-Mon) in an old mansion overlooking Delphi. The small museum is dedicated to Greek poet Angelos Sikelianos and his American-born wife Eva Palmer, who together established Delphi as a modern centre for drama and the arts. Tours English-language tours of Delphi are offered by Dutch guide Anna Kourtidou (% ), and Greek guide Georgia Hasioti (% , ) who also speaks Japanese, French and Italian. Sleeping Accommodation is plentiful and high quality in Delphi, but it s advisable to ring ahead in peak season (April to May and September to October) and on public holidays. BUDGET Hotel Sibylla (% ; Vasileon Pavlou & Friderikis 9; s/d/tr from 20/26/35) An excellent budget choice, the Sibylla has very helpful staff, along with simple, clean rooms, all with fans and several with views to the Gulf of Corinth. Hotel Sunview (%/fax ; Apollonos 84; s/t incl breakfast 30/50, d incl breakfast 35-45; ap) This excellent small hotel commands a stunning location in upper Delphi. Its sparkling rooms offer great value, and the friendly family owners treat it like their own home, which it happens to be! Rooms Pitho (% ; Vasileon Pavlou & Friderikis 48; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast 35/45/65/70; a) This hotel, with eight sparkling rooms and excellent service, is a top budget choice. Breakfast is served on the terrace with views to the gulf. Hotel Kouros (% ; Vasileon Pavlou & Friderikis 58; s/d/tr 35/45/60; a) The cosy Kouros is managed by the welcoming Asimina, who gets credit for the room artwork, and for arranging breakfast on the veranda. An hourly shuttle bus (ticket 1) runs between Delphi and two excellent camping grounds nearby. Apollon Camping (% ; fax ; camp sites per person/tent 7.50/4; ps), which is Delphi s nearest camping ground, 2km west of modern Delphi, boasts first-rate facilities including a restaurant, minimarket and barbecue. Delphi Camping (% ; camp sites per person/tent 6/4; ps), 4.5km from Delphi along the Delphi Itea road, is another excellent camping choice, with its own taverna and market, along with views over the Gulf of Corinth. CENTRAL GREECE

125 236 STEREA ELLADA Delphi Book accommodation online at STEREA ELLADA Around Delphi 237 CENTRAL GREECE MIDRANGE Hotel Leto (% ; Apollonos 15; -delphi.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast 45/60/75; nai) This new hotel is friendly, smartly decorated and, surprise, even offers nonsmoking rooms. Designed to please the eye and the budget, Leto is among the best value places in Delphi. Hotel Hermes (% ; fax ; Vasileon Pavlou & Friderikis 27; s/d/ste incl breakfast 45/50/80; a) The welcoming family-run Hermes is very good value, with large and tasteful wood-trimmed rooms, most with balcony views. Varonos Hotel (%/fax ; -varonos.gr; Vasileon Pavlou & Friderikis 25; s/d/tr/ste incl breakfast 42/62/70/120; aiw) The lobby of the charming Varonos is filled with greenery and antiques, along with pink walls to round out the homey theme. Rooms are large and spotless, and a suite sleeps four to six people with room to spare. Hotel Acropole (% ; fax ; Filellinon 13; s/d/tr incl breakfast 56/72/90; ai) The modern and well-appointed Acropole is on quieter Filellinon St, with large comfortable rooms and balconies, many with great views of the gulf. TOP END Hotel Appolonia (% ; apolloniadelphi@yahoo.gr; s/d/tr/ste incl breakfast 80/120/160/220; pai) Unlike many larger high-end hotels, the swank Appolonia has an intimate feel to it. Rooms are modern with dark-wood furnishings, and balcony sea views. Delphi Palace (% ; s/ste incl breafkast 100/200, d incl breakfast ; aspi) The Delphi Palace has been an upscale standby for years, with in-room fireplaces, a spa and pool bar. Walk 100m uphill from the bus station to reach the hotel. Eating Eating in Delphi can find you waiting in crowded restaurants for so-so food. The places listed here are worthy exceptions. Taverna Gargadouas (% ; Vasileon Pavlou & Friderikis; mains 4-7) Easily the local favourite for grilled meats and good value as well. The house speciality is slow-roasted lamb (provatina; 6.50). You can also tuck into a combo of pasta, souvlaki (cubes of meat on skewers), salad and fruit for a modest Taverna I Skala (% ; Isaia 11; mains 4-10) Climb the steps above the National Bank to reach this small and unpretentious woodpanelled hideaway, midway between Delphi s two main roads. The menu features a range of tasty mayirefta (ready-cooked meals) like stifadho (veal stew) with orzo pasta and onions, and delicious mezedhes such as eggplant salad and fried cheese. Taverna Vakhos (% ; Apollonos 31; mains ) Take the steps to this excellent taverna featuring traditional local fare, like goats cheese with lemon for an appetiser, followed by rooster in wine sauce. Wash it down with one of the Greek wines, including an unusually good house wine made by the family. There are great views down to the Gulf of Corinth. Taverna To Patrikomas (% ; Vasileon Pavlou & Friderikis; mains 8-15) A new eatery, this taverna is set in a 19th-century stone building overlooking the Gulf of Corinth. The décor is decidedly upscale, and the food keeps its end of the bargain. You ll find generous mezedhes, great grills and salads, along with a fine all-greek wine list. There are plenty of café-bars along Vasileon Pavlou & Friderikis. The best for veranda views and superb pizza is Café Agora (% ; breakfast, snacks & pizza 2-7). Nearby La Vista (% ) has decent views, along with two internet computers. Stop by Café Melopoleio (% ; snacks ; h7am- 11pm) for excellent coffee, juices and breakfast pites (pies). Entertainment While the rest of Delphi sleeps, two mainstreet clubs provide plenty of dancing into the wee hours. Club Katoi (% ; admission 6) is opposite the BP petrol station on Vasileon Pavlou & Friderikis, and nearby Downtown (% ; admission 6) is next door to the Hermes Hotel. Both clubs feature DJs and throw in a free drink with the price of admission. Getting There & Away BUS Buses depart from the bus station (% ) at the Itea end of Vasileon Pavlou & Friderikis. Note: travellers to Meteora will find better connections via Lamia and Trikala, rather than Larisa. Buses from Delphi Destination Duration Fare Frequency Amfissa 30min daily Arahova 20min daily Athens 3hr daily Galaxidi 45min daily Lamia 2hr daily Larisa 4hr daily Livadia 40min daily Nafpaktos 3hr daily Patra 4hr daily Thessaloniki 5hr daily Thiva 1¼hr daily Trikala 4½hr daily AROUND DELPHI Olive groves and clear skies mark the road south from Delphi, which stretches 18km to the Gulf of Corinth where it branches east to Kira (2km). This was ancient Kirrha, the port of Delphi, now a quiet suburb of the market town of Itea, with a long sand-and-pebble beach, very clean sea and good beachside camping. The town of Amfissa sits in the foothills 20km northwest of Delphi on the road to Lamia. Sacked in 338 BC by Phillip of Macedon, it s better known today among Greeks for its marvellous green olives, a beautiful and well-preserved Byzantine church, Agios Sotiras (Church of the Saviour), and the excellent Archaeological Museum (% ; admission 2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sat) featuring a collection of early pre-coin money, as well as 5th-century- BC finds from ancient Kirrha. Heading west from Delphi toward Amfissa and Itea, the beautiful 19th-century convent of Moni Profiti Ilia (% ; h8am-noon & 4-7pm) rests on a hillside overlooking the Gulf of Corinth. The turn-off is marked with a small cross and a 3km sign. MT PARNASSOS ΠΑΡΝΑΣΣOΣ ΟΡΟΣ Established in 1938, the 3600-hectare Parnassos National Park ( to the north of Delphi and Arahova, has three peaks over 2300m: Liakoura, the highest (2459m), Gerontovrakhos (2307m) and Kouvelos (1881m), a popular rock-climbing destination. With the rambling Parnassos ski centre gracing its northeastern edge, it s hardly a remote wilderness. Mt Parnassos (2457m) is also part of the very elaborate Trans-European E4 international footpath (orivatiko monopati) from Gibraltar to Sweden, also known as the European Rambler Path. See the European Ramblers Association website ( -ferp.org) for more information or jump on (in Greek only). Between 800m and 1800m, the slopes of Parnassos support Kefallonian fir, spruce and juniper, interspersed with yellow-flowered shrubs and the rare purple-flowered Daphne jasminea. Above the tree line are meadows of fescue grass and wild plum trees. Spring flowers including crocuses, squills, tulips, orchids and irises sprout from the limestone rocks. Greece s most common mammals foxes, hares, squirrels and jackals may be seen, as well as hawks, passerines and vultures. Activities HIKING The most popular ascent on Parnassos is to Liakoura Peak. The route begins at the Greek Alpine Club s Parnassos refuge at 1900m, 20km north of Arahova and 25km south of Amfiklia. For information, contact wellregarded local guide Stathis Samartzis (% , ). Two popular day hikes start and end at Delphi. The first connects two ancient sites, the Temple of Apollo and Korikio Antro, a sacred mountain shrine for Pan and Dionysos. Many hikers first hire a taxi ( 15) as far as Kalyvia, hike to the cave (half a kilometre), and return to Delphi via a well-marked path in under four hours. Along the way, there are awesome views of Delphi, the Amfissa plain and Galaxidi. A second hike of similar length meanders through the shady olives groves that stretch from Delphi to Ancient Kirrha on the Gulf of Corinth. After lunch or a swim, return by bus ( 2) to Delphi. SKIING The Parnassos Ski Centre (% ; hnov-may) handles ski and snowboard operations for the most popular slope on the mountain, Kelaria (1950m). At last count, there were 14 lifts covering 20 ski runs. The centre is 24km from Arahova and 17km from Amfiklia. There are complete holiday facilities with accommodation, restaurants, swank cafés, a medical centre and baby-sitting service, along with ski and snowboarding schools. Adjacent to Kelaria are the steeper slopes of Fterolakkas, popular with extreme skiers. CENTRAL GREECE

126 238 STEREA ELLADA Arahova Book accommodation online at STEREA ELLADA Around Arahova 239 CENTRAL GREECE For more information, contact DETPA municipal tourist office ( below ) in nearby Arahova. For ski instruction, find the reliable Papos & Baldoumis (% , ). Getting There & Away There is public transport on winter weekends between Arahova and the ski centre on Parnassos, free with the price of a lift ticket. A taxi runs to about 20. ARAHOVA ΑΡAΧΩΒΑ pop 4000 Arahova (ah-ra-ho-vah) is built on a rocky spur of Mt Parnassos at an altitude of 960m. Arahova is primarily a winter resort for skiers, and for Greeks it is very much the place to be during the skiing season. Prices in winter reflect this trend and some restaurants close in summer. It s only 12km from Delphi, and a good alternative base from which to visit Ancient Delphi. The main street of Arahova is flanked by shops selling embroidery, hand-woven goods, flokati rugs and various other souvenirs. The town is also noted for its cheese, honey, hilopites (fettuccine-style pasta) and red wine. Despite this overt flaunting of its assets to passing tourists, Arahova is essentially a rugged mountain town, and to appreciate its charm you need to explore its stepped alleyways. Orientation & Information The town s main thoroughfare is Delphon, which snakes its way through three squares: Pappaioannou, the central Lakka and Xenias. Delphon doubles as the main Athens Delphi road, and the police are constantly reminding locals not to double-park. The bus station is opposite Xenias. The helpful DETPA municipal tourist office (%/ fax ; detpa@arahova.gr; h8am-9pm Nov-Apr, 8am-8pm May-Oct), on Xenias, can assist in finding accommodation and information on visiting Mt Parnassos. The post office is also on Xenias. Nearby on Delphon are three banks with ATMs. Festivals The Festival of Agios Georgios is held in town around 23 April (if this date falls during Lent, the festival is postponed until the following Easter Tuesday). It s a joyous threeday celebration with dancing and singing, a tug-of-war contest and on the last day, feasting on roasted lamb, all compliments of the town. Sleeping Room prices in Arahova jump about 50% on winter weekends and holidays, from November to April. Hotel Arahova Inn (% ; fax ; Delphon; s/d/tr 50/60/70; i) Well managed and spotless, this stone-trimmed inn, east of town, features a cosy lobby bar to warm up in come winter. The hotel benefited from a thorough renovation in Hotel Likoria (% ; in Greek; s/d/tr incl breakfast from 55/75/100; pai) Off the main road, 300m north of town, the low-key Likoria feels more like a country inn. Rooms are quite traditional, with carpeting and huge beds. The friendly English-speaking staff is a plus. Pension Nostos (% ; d/tr incl breakfast 75/105) Aside from the plastic grass at the entrance, the handsome Nostos is attactive and comfortable, and includes a bit of history as well: the Beatles slept here in Other recommendations: Pension Petrino (% ; s/d 30/45; a) Attractive and spotless budget choice, just off the main road. Pension Alexandros (% ; s/d 45/60; pa) A classic mansion with mountain views, antique wood stoves and large murals painted by the owners. Near Lakka. Eating Taverna Panagiota (% ; mains 5-12) Unless you drive here, it s a mere (!) 263 steps up to this cosy taverna, behind Agios Giorgios (the town church). Tasty traditional Greek oven dishes fill the tables, and in winter there s always a fire going. Taverna Agnandio (% ; mains 6-10) This handsome and traditional Greek eatery, just east of Lakka, serves traditional oven-ready dishes and tasty lamb and chicken grills, along with the family s own red house wine. Taverna To Kalderimi (% ; mains 6-11; hclosed mid-jul mid-aug) Stop by this small family taverna off the main drag for excellent lamb stews, pork in tomato sauce and fresh mezedhes. Other recommendations: Taverna Karathanasi (% ; mains ) Excellent grills and salads. Opposite the steps to Agios Georgios church on the main road. Restaurant Parnassos (% ; mains ) Popular for bean or goat soup, tasty grills. On Xenias. Getting There & Away The five daily buses that run between Athens and Delphi ( 12.60, 2½ hours) stop in Arahova at Xenias. In addition there are hourly local buses to Delphi ( 1.50, 20 minutes). AROUND ARAHOVA Moni Osios Loukas Moνή Oσίου Λουκά The Moni Osios Loukas (Monastery of St Luke; % ; admission 3; h8am-7pm, closed 2-4pm Easter mid-sep) is 8km east of the village of Distomo, which lies 3km south of the Athens Delphi road. Its principal church contains some of Greece s finest Byzantine frescoes. Modest dress is required (no shorts). The monastery is dedicated to a local hermit who was canonised for his healing and prophetic powers. The monastic complex includes two churches. The interior of Agios Loukas, the main one, is a glorious symphony of marble and mosaics. There are also icons by Michael Damaskinos, the 16th-century Cretan painter. In the main body of the church, the light is partially blocked by the ornate marble window decorations, creating striking contrasts of light and shade. Walk around the corner to find several fine frescoes which brighten up the crypt where St Luke is buried. Nearby, the smaller Agia Panagia (Church of the Virgin Mary), built in the 10th century, has a colourful but less impressive interior as none of its original frescoes have survived. This World Heritage listed monastery is in an idyllic setting, with breathtaking vistas from its terrace, where Café Bar Yannis (% ) sells local sweets and serves good coffee just in case you re one of those people who can t go anywhere outside hissing distance of an espresso machine. GETTING THERE & AWAY From Delphi, you can take the Livadia/Athens bus as far as the Distomo crossing ( 2.20, 35 minutes, hourly), then walk 2km to the town of Distomo. Without your own transport, you can also reach the monastery by taking a taxi from Distomo ( 24 return), Livadia ( 25 return) or Delphi ( 35 return); in all cases, the taxi will wait one hour at the monastery. Distomo Δίστομο pop 3823 The only thing of note in Distomo is the war memorial, which commemorates the 200 villagers slain by the Nazis in June 1944 in reprisal for a guerrilla attack. The white-marble slab, erected in 1996 with inscriptions in both Greek and German, is the German government s apology for the atrocity. GALAXIDI ΓΑΛΛΑΞIΔΙ pop 1900 Galaxidi is the prettiest of the low-key resorts on the north coast of the Gulf of Corinth. The town is graced with narrow cobblestone streets and two small harbours, and makes a pleasant base from which to visit Delphi. Galaxidi is reasonably tranquil except during summer and holiday weekends, when its charm is tested by car loads of Athenians. Galaxidi s most prosperous period was between 1830 and 1910 when it was a major caïque-building centre. Orientation & Information Galaxidi s central square is Manousakia, from where the main street of Nikolaou Mama leads to the larger of Galaxidi s two harbours. Kammenoi St leads to the smaller harbour of Hirolakas. The post office and a bank are on Nikolaou Mama. A forested headland, opposite the waterfront, is fringed by pebbled coves popular with local swimmers. You can access the internet at To Steki Café (% ; per hr 1.80; h9.30am-midnight) on the waterfront opposite Porto Restaurant. Sights The sparkling Nautical Historical Museum (% ; Manousakia; adult/child 5/1; h10am-1.30pm & pm Jun-Sep, 10am-4pm Oct- May) documents Greece s maritime history and Galaxidi s unique ship-building lore, which flourished during the days of commercial sailing ships. The Folklore Museum (% ; Hirolaka; adult/child 2/1; h9.30am-1.30pm Wed-Mon) displays traditional embroidery and costumes. The carved-wood iconostasis in the Church of Agios Nikolaos is one of Greece s finest. CENTRAL GREECE

127 240 STEREA ELLADA Nafpaktos Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at STEREA ELLADA Messolongi 241 CENTRAL GREECE Follow the English signs for the museums and church. The little 13th-century Moni Metamorfosis stands amid olive groves and cypress trees, 7km inland from Galaxidi. From this vantage point there are terrific views down to the Gulf of Corinth. To reach it, go under the flyover and take the road opposite. Sleeping In summer, several of the waterfront cafés have rooms to let, though they re often pricey, given the noisy location. ohotel Ganimede (% ; Nik Gourgouris 20; s/d/tr 37/58/65; ai) This delightful courtyard hotel in a 19thcentury captain s house offers pastel-shaded rooms with wood-panelled ceilings. Owner Chrisoula Papalexi s homemade breakfasts ( 8.50) include jams, cheeses, fresh juices and breads from the nearby family bakery. The captain s original living room is now a spacious split-level suite that sleeps five ( 170), and there are three modern apartments ( 65 to 130). Hotel Galaxa (% ; fax ; s/d/f 65/75/110; pa) Families will like the big rooms and the garden at the recently renovated Galaxa, 200m from Hirolaka, and 100m to a good swimming spot. To Spitaki (% , ; d/f incl breakfast from 90/150; ap) Its name meaning little house in Greek, this converted 1850s stone ouzerie is one of three adjacent properties, each complete with kitchen and flower garden, and halfway between the port and main square. Owner Stella stocks the kitchen with breakfast basics. Other recommendations: Pension Votsalo (% , ; Hirolaka; d/tr 40/60; a) Three rooms, each with its own traditional personality, opposite the bay. Pension Hirolakas (% ; fax ; Hirolaka; d/studio/apt 40/70/90; pa) Splitlevel rooms, minifridges and sea views. Eating Albatross (% ; Konstadinou Satha 36; mains 4-9; h8am-midnight) You could write the menu of this sweet six-table taverna, near the Church of Agios Nikolaos, on the back of a postage stamp, but the generous offerings of mezedhes along with a few ready-made dishes like baked cod or roasted pork are always tasty and cheap. Art Cafe Liotrivi (% ; mains 4-10; hjul & Aug) You might spot the owner-artist George s paints and brushes on the counter at this handsome 200-year-old seaside café on the old harbour. Half taverna and half museum, its excellent dishes range from simple olives and dolmadhes to shrimp flambé and mussels in tomato sauce. Taverna Kavouras (% ; mains 5-12) Kavouras gets a thumbs-up from locals who like the fresh fish caught by the owner. Standouts include fish risotto and grilled shrimp, along with fine mezedhes and good wine. Porto Restaurant (% ; mains ) Opposite the waterfront plateia, this excellent family eatery serves up reliable mayirefta like veggie mousakas (sliced eggplant arranged in layers and baked), lamb with pasta and baked cod. Other recommendations: Taverna Tasso (% ; Akti Oianthis 51; mains 4-12) Usually packed, offering tasty mezedhes, fresh fish and lobster. Taverna Maritsa (% ; Akti Oianthis 71; mains 8-15) Excellent seafood risotto and grilled octopus in an upscale atmosphere. Shopping Ostria (% /41063) You can browse for jewellery, icons and handmade pottery at this attractive waterfront shop, 100m past the port kiosk. The nearby family workshop and studio opens to summer visitors. Getting There & Away The bus station (% ) is on Manousakia. There are buses to Delphi ( 3, 45 minutes, five daily), Patra ( 8.50, one hour, twice daily) and Athens ( 16, three hours, five daily). NAFPAKTOS ΝΑΥΠΑΚΤΟΣ pop 13,000 West of Galaxidi, the coastal highway winds in and out of a number of seaside towns and villages, including the picturesque Monastiraki, 12km east of the bustling market town of Nafpaktos. Opposite the village of Spilia, look for Trizonia, the only inhabited island in the Gulf of Corinth. Nafpaktos spreads out from a handsome circular-walled harbour, dotted with plane trees, trendy cafés, a good swimming beach (Psani) and a well-preserved fortress and Venetian castle, the latter protected by a series of terraced stone walls built by a succession of conquerors (Doric, Roman, Byzantine, Venetian and Turk). Nafpaktos was known as Lepanto in medieval times, and it was here on 7 October 1571 that the naval battle of Lepanto took place between the Ottoman Empire and the combined navies of the Vatican, Spain and Venice. The overwhelming victory over the Turks temporarily ended their naval domination of the Mediterranean. Look for a small bronze statue of battle hero Miguel de Cervantes, below the harbour wall. Information Hobby Club (% ; Psani ; internet access per hr 1.50; h9am-3am) Opposite Psani. Sleeping In Nafpaktos, expect prices quoted here to drop by about 20% outside the high summer season (mid-july through to the end of August). Camping Dounis (% ; fax ; camp sites per adult/tent 7.50/4) Towards the Rio Andirio bridge, 8km west of Nafpaktos, this shady beachside camping ground comes with a minimarket and small taverna. Plaza House (% ; fax ; Navmahias 37; s/d/ste incl breakfast 45/60/110; a) On the waterfront at Psani, the modern and friendly Plaza has spacious and smartly decorated rooms. Request a room facing the sea. Hotel Nafpaktos (% ; paktos.gr; Grimbovo ; s/d/tr incl breakfast 47/75/95; pa) Look for the blue balcony railings, just opposite Grimbovo. The hotel has a modern look, with large and comfortable rooms, along with attentive staff. Hotel Regina (% ; fax ; s/d/tr from 50/60/70; a) The Regina is a great deal for families, with handsome two-room studios, all with kitchenettes and balconies, and only 50m from Psani. Eating Taverna O Stavros (% ; Grimbovo ; mains ) This reliable boardwalk eatery is popular for its prices and excellent spanakopita (spinach pie), oven-cooked dishes like youvetsi (orzo with veal in tomato sauce), stuffed capsicum and tomatoes and rabbit stifadho (cooked in a tomato sauce), along with grilled fresh fish (by the kilo or the dish). Christakis Restaurant (% ; Navmahias 48; mains 4-10; h10am-midnight) Christakis welcoming owner, Dimitris, serves tasty taverna fare such as stuffed pumpkin leaves with rice, taramasalata (fish-roe puree) with potato and lemon juice, and grilled calamari. The beachfront location is a plus. Getting There & Away Nafpaktos has two bus stations. The Manassi station (% ; cnr Manassi & Botsari) is behind the large Church of Agios Dimitrios. The KTEL Fokida station (% ; cnr Kefalourisou & Asklipiou) is 400m further east from the Manassi station. The striking Rio Andirio suspension bridge, completed in 2004 by a French consortium, now connects mainland Andirio and Rio on the Peloponnese, a crossing formerly only made by ferry. Despite the steep toll ( each way) the bridge is catching on, and getting to places like Patra couldn t be easier. MESSOLONGI ΜΕΣΟΛOΓΓΙ pop 12,000 From a distance, Messolongi s flat landscape is hardly appealing. But the closer you get, the better it looks. Harilaou Trikoupi, which runs from the handsome central square; Athanasiou BUSES FROM NAFPAKTOS Station Destination Duration Fare Frequency Manassi Athens via Andirio Rio 3hr daily Manassi Thessaloniki 6hr 33 2 daily Manassi Agrinio 1½hr daily Mon-Fri Manassi Patra 30min daily Mon-Fri Manassi Lamia 3½hr daily Manassi Messolongi 50min daily Mon-Fri KTEL Fokida Athens via Delphi & Thiva 5hr daily KTEL Fokida Galaxidi 1¼hr daily KTEL Fokida Itea 1¾hr 7 5 daily CENTRAL GREECE

128 242 STEREA ELLADA Messolongi Book accommodation online at STEREA ELLADA Karpenisi 243 CENTRAL GREECE Razikotsika, which is parallel to it, and the lively pedestrian lanes between them are lined with good bars and tavernas. The town skirts the motionless Klisova Lagoon, the largest natural wetland in Greece, and a favourite winter stopover for thousands of migrating birds as well as an important breeding ground for the endangered Dalmatian pelican not to mention a pilgrimage site for photographers and bird-watchers. STREET-SIGN HISTORY Three major dates in Greek history are remembered in street names around the country. 25 March 1821, or Greek Independence Day, commemorates the end of centuries of rule by the Ottoman Empire. 17 November 1973 marks the massacre by government troops of 21 unarmed students at Polytehnio University in Athens who had barricaded themselves within the traditional sanctuary of the school s gates. 28 October 1940 marks the day when Greeks shouted No! to the Italian Fascists who demanded surrender without a fight. The fierce resistance finally weakened the Nazis, who were forced to move troops to Greece from the all-important Russian front. Referred to as No-Day throughout the country, many Greeks use rather more colourful language for this day. History During the War of Independence, the strategically important town of Messolongi was chosen by Mavrokordatos as the Fanariot western outpost. Britain s philhellenic bard Lord Byron arrived there in 1823 with the intention of organising the troops and supporting the Greek war effort. After months of vain attempts, Byron contracted a fever and died on 19 April 1824, his immediate aims unfulfilled. But Byron s death was not in vain it spurred international forces to hasten the end of the War of Independence, making him a Greek national hero. Many men, now in their 70s, bear the name Byron (Vyronas in Greek) and most Greek towns have a street named after him. In the spring of 1826, under the helm of Egyptian general Ibrahim, Messolongi was captured by the Turks. Their year-long siege drove 9000 men, women and children to escape on the night of 22 April 1826 through what is now called the Gate of Exodus. Most took refuge on Mt Zygos, only to be caught and killed; many others jumped to their death rather than face capture. This tragic exodus was immortalised in Dionysios Solomos epic poem I Eleftheri Poliorkimeni ( The Free Besieged ). Orientation & Information Messolongi is the capital of the prefecture of Etolo-Akarnania. The town is laid out in a roughly rectangular grid with the main square, Markou Botsari, in the middle. The square is dominated by the town hall on its eastern side. Challenger Internet Services (Petropoulou 7; per hr 1.50; h11am-11pm) Fifty metres north of the central plateia. Post office (Spyrou Moustakli) Just east of the central plateia. Tourist police (% ; Spyrou Trikoupi 29) Sights Just beyond the Gate of Exodus is the Garden of the Heroes (h9am-8pm), translated incorrectly as Heroes Tombs on the road sign. This memorial garden was established on the orders of the first governor of Greece following independence, Yiannis Kapodistrias, who issued the following decree: within these walls of the city of Messolongi lie the bones of those brave men, who fell bravely while defending the city it is our duty to gather together, with reverence, the holy remains of these men and to lay them to rest in a memorial where our country may, each year, repay its debt of gratitude. You will find the Greek text of this decree on the marble slab to the right as you enter the garden. A small statue of Lord Byron features prominently in the garden. When Byron died, the Greeks were heartbroken at the loss of a British nobleman who had given his life for their freedom. At the end of a national 21-day mourning period, Byron s embalmed body was returned to England, but his heart was kept by the Greeks and is buried beneath the statue. The English authorities at the time refused Byron s burial at Westminster Abbey. The Museum of History & Art (% ; Markou Botsari; admission free; h9am-1.30pm & 4-7pm) is dedicated to the revolution and has a collection of Byron memorabilia. Bone up on your War of Independence history (see opposite ) beforehand in order to get a feel for the full importance of these historic events. Sleeping & Eating Hotels in Messolongi are limited; let location be your guide. Avra (%/fax ; Harilaou Trikoupi; s/d 28/45; a) The Avra is tidy and comfortable, but you ll get a better night s sleep in the rooms towards the rear, to avoid the evening din of adjacent Markou Botsari. Theoxenia (% ; fax ; Tourlidos 2; s/d 65/80; a) Rambling and comfortable, most of the hotel s large and carpeted rooms overlook Klisova Lagoon, 3km from the town centre. Radio Megaro Restaurant (% ; Stavropoulou 16; mains ) Grills and oven-ready dishes including baked fish, are mainstays at this popular eatery midway between the plateia and the bay. Ouzerie Dimitrouka (% ; Razikotsika 11; mains 5-9) If you d like to try Messolongi s speciality petali (eels from the lagoon) head for this handsome little ouzerie; look for the eels hanging on display in the window. Getting There & Away The KTEL bus station (% ; Mavrokordatou 5) is just off the central square. There are regular services to Athens via Rio Andirio ( 19.80, 3½ hours, 10 daily), Patra ( 4.80, 50 minutes, seven daily), Agrinio ( 3.30, 35 minutes, hourly), Nafpaktos ( 4.20, 50 minutes, three daily), Amfissa ( 11.30, 2½ hours, twice daily) and Mytikas ( 7.40, 1½ hours, daily). AROUND MESSOLONGI Tourlida ΤΟΥPΛΙΔΑ With your own transport, you can drive across Klisova Lagoon via the 5km-long causeway to visit Tourlida, with a couple of decent tavernas and domatia (rooms for rent) at the end of the sandy road. Northwest to Mytikas & Astakos ΜΥΤΙΚΑΣ & ΑΣΤΑΚΟΣ Of the scattered seaside villages facing the Ionian Sea, only Astakos and Mytikas merit a second look. In summer, it s a lovely coastal drive, and buses make daily runs from Messolongi. A sleepy charmer on the Ionian coastline, Mytikas water s edge (63km from Messolongi) is lined with palm trees and houses. The beach is pebbly and uncommercialised, and the water crystal clear. There are only a couple of hotels, a few domatia and a scattering of tavernas. You can take a local caïque to the isolated islands of Kalamos, looming over Mytikas, or Kastos, tucked away on the other side. Astakos (49km from Messolongi) lacks Mytikas cosiness, but it s a convenient stepping stone for access to the Ionian Islands, via the daily ferry to/from Ithaki (Piso Aetos) and Kefallonia (Sami) in summer. KARPENISI ΚΑΡΠΕΝHΣΙ pop 6456 Karpenisi lies in the well-wooded foothills of Mt Tymfristos (2315m), 82km west of Lamia and 48km east of Lake Kremasta. Not surprisingly, given its home in the mountainous prefecture of Evritania, the town has an alpine-village feel to it, with chalet-style lodgings mixed in among its churches, tavernas and bakeries. Opportunities abound for hiking, rafting and mountain-biking to mountain villages and historical monasteries. In winter, a nearby ski centre is popular with Greeks. Orientation The thoroughfares of Zinopoulou, Athanasiou Karpenisioti and Spyridonos Georgiou Tsitsara run downhill from the central square; Ethnikis Andistasis runs northwest from it. Information EMERGENCY Hospital (% ; Ethnikis Antistasis 9) Police (% , ; Pavlou Bakogianni 2) INTERNET ACCESS Phoenix Internet Café (% ; Kosma Aitolou; per hr 2; h11am-3am) LAUNDRY Ariston Laundry (Athanasiou Karpenisioti 25) Next to Commercial Bank. MONEY Six banks around the central square have ATMs. CENTRAL GREECE

129 244 STEREA ELLADA Karpenisi Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at STEREA ELLADA Around Karpenisi 245 CENTRAL GREECE POST Post office (Agiou Nikolaou Karpenisiotou) Near the corner, 150m down Athanasiou Karpenisioti. TOURIST INFORMATION Tourist office (%/fax ; h9am-2pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm & 5-8pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) The English-speaking staff can give you area maps and information on accommodation options and adventure activities around Karpenisi. It s found opposite the central square and next to the taxi stand. Activities The Karpenisi Ski centre (% ; on Mt Velouhi operates seven lifts from November to March. Karpenisi is a mecca for hikers, skiers, mountain-bikers and rock climbers. Three friendly competitors in town boast extreme-sports offerings including whitewater rafting, snowboarding and canyoning. Prices average 30 to 40 per day, including equipment and transport. F-Zein (% ; info@fzein-evryt.gr; Zinopoulou 61) specialises in mountain-biking and graded rafting trips to three rivers: Aheloös (easy), Tavropos (moderate) and Krikelopotamos (advanced; white water), with acrobatic hot dogging lessons thrown in. The well-run Trekking Hellas (% ; Kosma Aitolou 1) is the oldest outdoor-activity company in town and organises hikes on the Trans-European E4 trail between Karpenisi and Krikello, along with horse riding, canoeing, rock climbing and canyoning. Mountain Action (%/fax , ; in Greek; Oikonomou 9) specialises in exploring the nearby canyons of Evrytania, along with mountain-biking excursions and canoeing around Lake Kremasta. For child-friendly horse riding near town, check out the Saloon Park (% ; riding per hr adult/child 20/10), a combination barrestaurant and stable. The unmistakable theme here is the American Old West, with a Jack Daniels meets ouzo ambience. Sleeping Koutsikos Domatia (% ; s/d 20/30) These attractive and simple domatia are high (51 steps) above the town square, opposite the tourist office. The marble-floored rooms are on the small side, but are spotless and very comfortable. Hotel Galini (% ; fax ; Riga Fereou 3; s/d 25/40) The side-street Galini is a great budget choice, with simple wood furnishings, spotless rooms and friendly owners. From the plateia, walk 100m up Spyridonos Georgiou Tsitsara. Hotel Elvetia (% ; Zinopoulou 17; s/d incl breakfast 40/65) Overlooking the central square, the Elvetia features carpeted, cosy rooms and a massive marble and wood lobby. City Hotel Apollonion (% ; apollonion.gr; Athanasiou Karpenisioti 4; s/d/tr/ste incl breakfast from 50/60/70/120; a) The handsome Apollonion is efficient and good value. Rooms feature wood and marble touches. Look for the giant mural on the wall facing the central square. Eating Three Star Restaurant (% ; Athanasiou Karpenisioti 35; mains ; h8am-4am Wed-Mon) Featuring big Greek-American-style dishes, Karpenisi s cheapest eatery is a hit with the local night owls. Choose from cholesterol-raising ham-and-egg breakfasts, wellprepared pasta dishes, pizza and soups, or tuck into a generous plate of pork chops. Taverna Panorama (% ; Riga Fereou 18; mains 4-8) Locals like the family feel of Panorama, 100m past Hotel Galini, with its leafy outdoor terrace. There s a comprehensive menu featuring traditional Greek fare, grilled meats and a hearty goat and potato soup. Taverna Esi Oti Peis (Whatever You Say; % ; Agiou Georgiou; mains 4-9; hdinner) This is a handsome taverna serving fine grills and salads, along with patio views of the town and mountains. Taverna En Elladi (% ; Kotsidou 4; mains ) Look for the red and white tablecloths at this smart family-run taverna, just above the main square. There s always a hearty homemade soup of the day, along with wellprepared oven-ready dishes like chicken and rice and mixed vegetables. Entertainment If you re in town during the busier winter months, you might want to catch some latenight, authentic live Greek music at Notes Live (% ; Kosma Etolou 9; hsep-jun). Things don t get going until after midnight. And it s roughly the same at Nefelis (% ), opposite Agiou Georgiou church. Getting There & Away BUS Karpenisi s bus station (% ; Harilaou Trikoupi) is 2.5km southeast of town. Buses run to Athens ( 21.50, five hours, four daily), Lamia ( 6, 1½ hours, four daily) and Agrinio ( 9.20, 3½ hours, once daily). Local buses depart for Megalo Horio, Mikro Horio, Gavros ( 1.20, 25 minutes, one or two daily) and Prousos ( 3, 50 minutes, Friday only). TA X I From the central plateia it s about 12 to Gavros, Megalo Horio and Mikro Horio; to Prousos, it s about 25 each way. AROUND KARPENISI From Karpenisi, a scenic mountain road leads south for 37km to the village of Prousos. Along the way you ll pass several picturesque villages. The restored village of Koryshades, 5km southwest of Karpenisi, has well-preserved mansions and is reached by a right turn-off along the Prousos road. Twelve kilometres beyond Korishades is Megalo Horio, with many traditional stone houses. One of these is the well-signposted Folklore Museum (% ; admission free; h10.30am-3pm Fri-Sun Oct-May, 10am-2pm & 6-8pm Jun- Sep). Megalo Horio is also the starting point for the hike up Mt Kaliakouda (2098m), with a refuge (1450m) for overnight hikers; inquire at the Karpenisi tourist office (%/fax ; If you fancy something more sedate, you can take a pleasant stroll along the banks of the River Karpenisiotis on a footpath that begins opposite the village bus terminal. Moni Panagias Proussiotissas (% ), just before the village of Prousos, claims a miracle-working icon and ecclesiastical ornaments in the monastery s 18th-century church. There are several resident monks, and pilgrims flock here in August for the Feast of the Assumption. Another panoramic road leads 25km southwest from Karpenisi to the quaint village of Fidakia, with magnificent views to Lake Kremasta. Sleeping & Eating Hotel Dryas (% ; fax ; r incl breakfast 60; p) Megalo Horio has a number of well-appointed domatia on or near the square, including the welcoming Dryas with stylish rooms and balcony views of the valley. Agathidis Pension (% , ; s/d 35/50; p) If you want to linger overnight in Prousos, this welcoming nine-room pension located in the central square offers traditional comforts. Nearby Gavros attracts Karpenisi families in search of a good meal in the countryside. Try the riverside Taverna To Spiti tou Psara (% ; mayirefta & grills 5-8). LAMIA ΛΑΜIΑ pop 47,246 Lamia is the capital of the prefecture of Fthiotida, built in the foothills of Mt Orthys at the western end of the Maliakos Gulf. Lamia rarely figures on travellers itineraries, but it deserves a look-in. Like most towns that are not dependent on tourism for their livelihood, Lamia is a vibrant and lively place yearround. It is famous for its kokoretsi (grilled lamb offal), kourabiedes (almond shortcake) and xynogala (sour milk). Orientation Life in Lamia revolves around Eleftherias, Laou and Parkou. There are five bus terminals, all serving different destinations. Two squares are near one another: Eleftherias, with swank cafeterias, attracts a younger set, whereas Laou, shaded by large plane trees, kicks back with traditional kafeneia (coffee houses), bakeries and tavernas. There s a bustling street market on Riga Fereou and its side streets every Saturday morning. Information Six banks, all with ATMs, encircle Parkou. Battle Net (% ; Rozaki Angeli 40; internet access per hr 1.50) Opposite Athina Hotel. Police station (% ; Patroklou) Post office (Athanasiou Diakou) Opposite the plateia. Sights Lamia s frourio (fortress) is worth the hike just for the views. Within it is the Archaeological Museum (% ; admission 2; h8.30am- 2.30pm), which displays finds from Neolithic to Roman times, including some Hellenistic children s toys. CENTRAL GREECE

130 246 STEREA ELLADA Lamia Book accommodation online at STEREA ELLADA Iti National Park 247 CENTRAL GREECE The original Gorgopotamos Railway Bridge, 7km from Lamia, was blown up by a coalition of Greek Resistance forces, aided by the British, on 25 November This was done in an attempt to delay the German advance, and is considered one of the greatest acts of sabotage of the time. The reconstructed bridge spans a deep ravine, just beyond the main train station. About 20km southeast of Lamia is the narrow pass of Thermopylae, where, in 480 BC, Leonidas and a band of 300 brave Spartans managed to temporarily halt the invading Persian army of Xerxes. A statue of Leonidas honours the heroic battle site where the Spartans ultimately perished against overwhelming odds. THE LONG & WINDING ROADS Sleeping & Eating Hotel Athina (% ; fax ; Rozaki Angeli 41; s/d 35/45; pa) The newly renovated and well-managed Athina is centrally located, and the tile-floored rooms are large, comfortable and good value. Taverna Ilysia (% ; Kalyva Bakogianni 10; mains ) This large, no-frills taverna serves a huge range of tasty, oven-made point-and-eat dishes. Ouzerie Trata (% ; Androutsou 14; mains 3-7) One of a cluster of bright ouzeries (places that serve ouzo and light snacks) around Laou, with outdoor eating under a canopy of greenery. Fitilis Restaurant (% ; Laou 6; mains ) Next to a sweets shop, upmarket Fitilis serves classic dishes in a modern setting. The house claim to fame is slowcooked lamb wrapped in paper with cheese and potatoes. Central Greece s proclivity for grilled meats reaches the point of deification in Lamia. The southern end of Karaïskaki is a vegetarian s nightmare, full of psistarias (restaurants serving grilled food) with whole lambs, goats and pigs in their windows. Getting There & Away BUS There are four long-distance bus terminals in Lamia, along with one regional station. From Papakyriazi station (% ; cnr Satovriandou & Papakyriazi), buses depart for Athens ( 16.80, three hours, hourly) and Thessaloniki ( 22.50, four hours, two daily, three on weekends). The Athens-bound bus stops at Agios Konstantinos ( 3.90, 50 minutes). From the Agrafon station (% ; Agrafon 41), opposite Halliopouleio Sport Centre, buses go north to Trikala ( 8, 2½ hours, six daily) for Meteora and Kalambaka. Buses head south to Amfissa ( 6.10, 1½ hours, three to four daily) and Delphi (change in Amfissa; 7.80, two hours, three to four daily). There is one direct bus a day for Patra ( 16.10, three hours). From the Markou Botsari station (% ; Markou Botsari 3) buses depart for Karpenisi ( 6, 1¾ hours, five daily). From the Rozaki Angeli station (% ; Rozaki Angeli 69) you ll find buses for Volos ( 10.50, two hours, two daily, one Saturday). The regional bus station (% ; Konstantinoupoleos 6) has buses for western Fthiotida province, including Loutra Ipatis ( 1.50, 30 There are three mountainous routes travelling south from Karpenisi each distinctive, each a bit harrowing in its own way. The first route initially heads west from Karpenisi and crosses a long bridge over Lake Kremasta, a spectacular drive through some remote and beautiful countryside. The road seems to climb and twist forever, eventually winding its way down through small farm holdings into Agrinio. Two buses daily ply this tortuous road in about 3½ hours. A second and shorter route requires your own transport, and winds south from Karpenisi past the village of Prousos, continuing to the town of Thermo in the hills above Lake Trihonida, Greece s largest natural lake. This is a beautiful drive, passing through several small villages and a few herds of goats along the way. A third route, also requiring your own transport, passes the striking farming villages of Krikello and Ano Hora. Each route crosses the mountains and villages of the Agrafa territory. During the Tourkokratia (Turkish occupation of Greece), the villages of this region were considered too remote to be recorded for taxation purposes, so they were classified as agrafa (unrecorded). minutes, four to five daily) near Iti National Park, and Pavliani ( 3.60, 90 minutes, two per week). TRAIN Lamia s main train station is 6km west of the town centre at Lianokladi. Train tickets should be purchased in Lamia from the OSE ticket office (% ; Averof 28). For all longdistance trains, a special OSE bus links the main Lianokladi train station and the local train station, located 200m southeast of the ticket office, at the corner of Konstantinoupoleos and Satovriandou. (Note that no longdistance trains connect with the local train station.) Intercity trains run to Athens ( 15.20, 2½ hours, six daily) and Thessaloniki ( 19.50, three hours, six daily). Slower trains make both runs for half the price, and take an extra hour. ITI NATIONAL PARK ΕΘΝΙΚΟΣ ΔΡΥΜΟΣ ΟΙΤΗΣ Iti is one of Greece s most beautiful but least developed national parks. There s very little infrastructure, and it s never crowded. In fact, trails are not well marked and a refuge (Trapeza at 1850m) near the summit (2114m) has fallen into disrepair. For information about hikes in Mt Iti, contact the Alpine Federation (% ) in Athens. For current hiking routes in Iti, pick up Anavasi topo map No 7, Central Greece: Fokidha. The bordering village of Ipati, located 22km west of Lamia and 8km south of the Karpenisi Lamia road, has the remains of a fortress and is (along with Pavliani to the south) a starting point for hikes on Mt Iti. It is a verdant region with forests of fir and black pine. According to mythology, Mt Iti was the place where the dying Hercules built his own funeral pyre. While the mortal elements in Hercules perished, the immortal Hercules joined his divine peers on Mt Olympus. Ipati is mostly untouched by tourism. The hub of the village is the tree-shaded, central square Ainianon, flanked by traditional kafeneia. The shady village of Loutra Ipatis is home to a summer sulphur spa, and is close to both Lamia and Ipati for hikes on Mt Iti. With your own transport, this is an ideal base for exploring the region. Loutra Ipatis is preferable for hotels, while Ipati s busy square is home to the best eateries near Mt Iti. Try the welcoming and spotless Hotel Alexakis (% ; fax ; Loutra Ipatis; s/d incl breakfast 30/40; pa). Modest Ouzerie Eleni Karyampa (% ; Ipati; mains 4-7; hdinner) serves souvlaki and kokoretsi in the evening. AGIOS KONSTANTINOS ΑΓΙΟΣ ΚΩΝΣΤΑΝΤΙΝΟΣ pop 2657 Agios Konstantinos, which is on the main Athens Thessaloniki route, is one of the three mainland ports (along with Volos and Thessaloniki) that serve the islands of Skiathos, Skopelos and Alonnisos, which make up the northern Sporades. With judicious use of buses between Athens and the port, you will not need to stay overnight before catching a Sporades-bound ferry or hydrofoil. However, if you get stranded, try the well-managed Hotel Amfitryon (% ; fax ; Eivoilou 10; s/d incl breakfast 45/65; a) between the harbour and central square. Several tavernas keep company with the ferry ticket offices, including the reliable Taverna Kaitsas (% ; mains ). Getting There & Away BUS From the bus station (% ), next to the Galaxias supermarket about 200m south of the ferry landing, there are hourly buses to Athens Terminal B bus station ( 13, 2½ hours), and buses to Lamia ( 3.90, one hour, hourly), Thessaloniki ( 24.60, four hours, two daily) and Patra ( 18.60, 3½ hours, daily). FERRY Fast ferries make daily runs from Agios Konstantinos to Skiathos ( 28, 2½ hours), Skopelos ( 36, 3½ hours) and Alonnisos ( 36, four hours). Contact Bilalis Travel Agency (% ; Karaïskaki 4) for tickets. HYDROFOIL Hydrofoils depart one to two times daily for Skiathos ( 27, 1½ hours), Skopelos ( 36.50, two hours) and Alonnisos ( 36.50, 2½ hours). Ferry and hydrofoil tickets may be purchased from either Alkyon Ferry Co (% ; Karaïskaki 2) or Bilalis Travel Agency (% ; Karaïskaki 4), between the square and the quay. CENTRAL GREECE

131 248 THESSALY Larisa Book accommodation online at THESSALY Larisa 249 CENTRAL GREECE THEOLOGOS ΘΕΟΛΟΓΟΣ Halfway between Agios Konstantinos and Thiva, and roughly 125km north of Athens, this picturesque fishing village and Athenian beach getaway is home to a rare excavated example of an ancient Neolithic town, complete with detailed and colourful display boards. For information, visit its website (halai.arts.cornell.edu) or contact the on-site archaeologist, Cornell University s John Coleman (% ), who conducts impromptu tours of the site for visitors. There are several tavernas and domatia nearby. THESSALY ΘΕΣΣΑΛIΑ The region of Thessaly occupies much of east-central Greece between the Pindos Mountains and the Aegean Sea, bordered by Sterea Ellada to the south and Macedonia to the north. It boasts two of Greece s most extraordinary natural phenomena: the monastery-capped rock forests of Meteora, and THESSALY To Kastoria (35km) MACEDONIA To Ioannina Kastraki (41km) TRIA POTAMIA Kalambaka EPIROS To Arta (54km) Grevena E92 Metsovo RiverAheloös Meteora Kozani Deskati Titarissios Mt Neraida Hrisomilia Farkadona (2074m) Mt Koziakis Pertouli E92 Gardiki Trikala Neraidochori Moni Agiou Mesohora Elati Vissarion Mesohora Stournareïka Pyli Dam Mouzaki See Sterea Ellada Map (p231) Lake Plastiras Lake Kremaston River Pinios Karditsa Lake Aliakmonas Loutropigi STEREA ELLADA E65 Sofades the lush Pelion Peninsula, home to restored pensions and cobbled trails. The mountains and alpine meadows around Elati and Pertouli are year-round destinations for hikers, skiers and river rafters. LARISA ΛAΡΙΣΑ pop 130,946 Larisa is a major transport and service hub for the vast agricultural plain of Thessaly. Despite its workaday feel, it is a vibrant university town, as the bustling cafeterias around Makariou testify. Larisa is also home to an important military air base. Perhaps because Larisa can heat up in the summertime, as any Greek will tell you, there is a hopeful sign on the outskirts pointing to the of Larisa, a mere 40km away. Larisa has been inhabited for over 8000 years, and its fascinating past is only gradually being revealed. An ongoing archaeological excavation of a 3rd-century ancient theatre in the city centre, near the corner of Papanastasiou and Eleftheriou Venizelou, has yet to be opened to the public. (55km) Paleofarsalos To Thessaloniki Mt Litohoro Olympus (2917m) Mt Olympus National Park Elassona Tyrnavos Larisa To Lamia (31km) Ambelonas Enipeas E65 Katerini Vale of E92 Tembi Stomio Ambelakia Ag Anargyri E75 E65 Agnanderi Farsala Dilofo Mt Ossa (1978m) Kofi Kokoti Vrinena To Lamia (43km); Athens (227km) 0 40 km 0 20 miles Melivia Agia Skiti A E G E A N Pouri Trikeri S E A See Pelion Peninsula Map (p256) Agios Ioannis Volos Vyzitsa Pelion Peninsula Sesklo Kato Milies Dimitrias Gatzea Afissos Dimini Almyros Pagasitikos Gulf Milina Platanias E75 Evia To Sporades (10km) Orientation Larisa occupies the east bank of the River Pinios, which eventually flows through the Vale of Tembi to the sea. The train station is on the southern side of town and the main bus station is on the northern side. Its main square is Laou, 200m south of the main bus station along Olympou. Kyprou and Nikitara run across the southern end of Laou, with Eleftheriou Venizelou and 31 Avgoustou running across the town s northern end. Ethnarhou Makariou and Mihail Sapka are the other two main squares. The streets around these squares are mainly pedestrianised. Information EMERGENCY Hospital (% ; Tsakalof 1) Police station (% ; Papanastasiou 86) INTERNET ACCESS K-Net (% ; Rouzvelt 24; per hr 2; h8am-midnight) MONEY There are ATMs at the train station and several banks on Mihail Sapka. POST Post office (cnr Papanastasiou & Athanasiou Diakou) TOURIST INFORMATION Hotel Association of Larisa (% ; Hotel Metropole, Rousvelt 14) Ask here for general information about the town. Municipal Tourism Office (% ; fax ; Ipirou 58; h7am-2.30pm Mon-Fri) Sights & Activities The acropolis on Agios Ahillios Hill has archaeological evidence that proves this area has been settled since the Neolithic Age (6000 BC), and that it was used as the ancient settlement s acropolis during classical times. More recently, it was home to the medieval kastro (castle). The Archaeological Museum (% ; 31 Avgoustou 2; admission free; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), opposite Laou, contains Neolithic finds and grave stelae from the region. The Municipal Art Gallery of Larisa (Pinakothiki Katsigra; % ; cnr Papandreou & Kliou Patera; admission free; h10.30am-2.30pm & pm Tue-Thu, 10.30am-2.30pm Sat & Sun) houses a superb private collection of contemporary Greek art that s second only to the National Art Gallery in Athens. Relax and cool down at Alkazar Park, across the river. Larisa, along with Agrinio, shares the unenviable record of being the hottest place in Greece. The grand marble fountain on Ethnarhou Makariou gushes and splashes all day long, a refreshing sight on a hot day. Sleeping & Eating Hotel Pantheon (% ; OSE 4; s with/ without bathroom 25/30, d 30/40; a) This hotel is the pick of three budget hotels opposite the train station, and has clean rooms and helpful staff. Hotel Metropole (% ; metropol.gr; Rousvelt 14; s/d/f incl breakfast 45/65/80; pai) Should you linger in Larisa, try this family-managed hotel, found between Plateies Laou and Ethnarhou Makariou. The large and attractive rooms are decorated with the owner s paintings. Dozens of decent eateries are bunched together around Larisa s lively squares. Near Ethnarhou Makariou, stop by reliable Restaurant Syndrivani (% ; Protopapadaki 8; mains ), one of those long-established, no-nonsense restaurants that every sizable Greek town seems to have. It s open all day and is always packed. Excellent roast lamb and veggie mousakas are among the favourites. Getting There & Away BUS Buses leave Larisa s main bus station (% ; cnr Georgiadou & Olympou) for Athens ( 25, 4½ hours, six to seven daily), Lamia (for Delphi; 11.30, 2½ hours, six to seven daily), Thessaloniki ( 12.50, two hours, 13 daily), Volos ( 4.80, one hour, 12 daily) and Ioannina ( 15, four hours, two daily). From a branch bus station (% ; Iroön Polytehniou) near the junction with Gazi Anthimou, buses run regularly to/from Trikala ( 5.30, one hour, hourly) and Kalambaka ( 6.40, 1½ hours, two daily). TRAIN Seven Intercity trains pass daily through Larisa train station (% ) to/from Thessaloniki ( 13, 80 minutes) and Athens ( 24, 3½ hours, three daily). There are also hourly local trains to Volos ( 2.10, 50 minutes). You CENTRAL GREECE

132 250 THESSALY Around Larisa THESSALY Volos 251 CENTRAL GREECE JASON & THE ARGONAUTS A famous Greek myth tells of Jason s quest for the Golden Fleece and of his subsequent journey with a ram-bowed vessel called the Argos, constructed of wood taken from the forests of the Pelion Peninsula. The Argos was built to sail from Volos (Ancient Iolkos) to Colchis on the Black Sea, passing present-day Turkey, Georgia and Russia along the way. In the summer of 2008 a replica version of the Argos is set to sail along this same ancient seaway. Doing the rowing will be 50 oarsmen from the EU, sailing only by daylight, and never far from shore. Interestingly, because Turkey is not yet a member of the EU, a Greek security vessel is scheduled to join the expedition as a precaution in case of demonstrations or disruptions by politically minded opponents of the decision to use the EU-only crew. can buy tickets at the OSE office (% ; Papakyriazi 35) opposite the town hall. AROUND LARISA The Vale of Tembi, a historical and scenic valley cut by the River Pinios between Mt Olympus and Mt Ossa, was sacred to the gods in ancient times. Throughout history the valley has been a pathway into Greece for merchants and invaders, from Persian King Xerxes in 480 BC to the Germans in WWII. The latest invaders seek out souvenirs at the riverside shops. Tembi, 25km northeast of Larisa, is also popular with walkers and cyclists. VOLOS ΒOΛΟΣ pop 85,394 Volos is a large and bustling city on the northern shores of the Pagasitikos Gulf. The waterfront area is dotted with shady trees and, though not a holiday destination in its own right, the lure of the Pelion Peninsula or the Sporades draws travellers to the city. The town has an inviting boardwalk lined with tavernas, ouzeries, small hotels, churches and cafés. The city is also home to the University of Thessaly, whose students liven up the Volos café scene. Orientation The waterfront street of Argonafton is, for half its length, a pedestrian area; running parallel to it are the city s main thoroughfares of Iasonos, Dimitriados and Ermou. Ermou and its side streets make up a lively pedestrian precinct, anchored by the church at Agiou Nikolaou. Heading northeast out of the town centre towards the hills and at right angles to the main thoroughfares are K Kartali and Eleftheriou Venizelou (known locally as Iolkou). Riga Fereou is at the northwestern end of the main waterfront area, near the train station. The bus station is 500m further along Grigoriou Lambraki, opposite the tourist information centre. If you have a car, you ll appreciate the public car park at the quay. Information BOOKSHOPS Papasotiriou Books (% ; Dimitriados 223) Has a good collection of English titles, newspapers and maps. EMERGENCY Tourist police (% ; 28 Octovriou 179) Locals also refer to the street name for 28 Octovriou as Alexandras. Volos General Hospital (% ; Polymeri 134) Near the Archaeological Museum. INTERNET ACCESS Network (% ; Iasonos 41; h24hr) Volos largest internet café. MONEY There are several banks with ATMs on Argonafton and Iasonos Sts. POST Post office (cnr Dimitriados & Agiou Nikolaou) Near Agios Nikolaos church. TOURIST INFORMATION Volos Information Centre & Hotels Association of Magnesia (% ; cnr Grigoriou Lambraki & Sekeri; h8am-9pm mid- Apr mid-sep, 8am-8pm mid-sep mid-apr; pi) Just opposite the bus station. The helpful multilingual staff at this modern facility has hotel information, town maps and bus, train and ferry schedules along with travel tips for the Pelion Peninsula. Sights The excellent Archaeological Museum (% ; Athanasaki 1; admission 2; h8.30am-3pm) houses a comprehensive collection of area finds. Es m miles VOLOS To Portaria (4km); Zagora (44km) ENTERTAINMENT Astra Bouzouki A1 Summer Cinema D3 Village Cinema A1 Papadiamanti Train Station 24 Palaia District 18 2 Noemvriou Eleftheriou Venizelou (Iolkou) Konstanta Athanassiou Diakou Rozou Mikrasiaton Kountourioutou Feron Kreontos TRANSPORT EATING Apostolis Restaurant C2 Ekonomou O Papous D1 O Haliabalias D3 O Kyklos Tsipouradiko B1 Ouzerie Iolkos C2 Sarris Taverna E4 Avis C2 Bus Station A2 Falcon Travel C2 Ferries to the Sporades C3 Hydrofoils to the Sporades C3 Nikolaos Pappas C2 Sporades Travel C2 Spyridi Chatziargyri 28 Oktovriou (Alexandras) Vassani Grigoriou Ermou Xenofontos Agia Theodori Church Souliou 9 Anthimou Gazi K Kartali Antonopoulou Riga Fereou Topali Grigoriou Lambraki Analipseos Glavani 32 Almyrou Dimarhou Georgiadou Magniton Koumoundourou Gallias 6 Agiou Nikolaou Sekeri Agios Nikolaos Church Dimitriados 10 Kartali 19 Konstanta 4 Ermou Riga FereouRiga Fereou Kartali To Larisa (57km) DRINKING Bar Balthassar D2 Café Aroma D3 Flo Café D3 To Alykes (4km); Athens (328km) Mavrokordatou Ogl 33 Lahana Ioannou Orpheos(Kontaratou) 11 Krafsinodas University of Thessaly Deligiorgi Nikotsara Trikoupi Anavros Kassaveti 25 Iasonos 23 Argonafton 22 8 Kanaph Karaiskaki Perevou 28 Oktovriou (Alexandras) 13 Polymeri 30 Gallias INFORMATION Network... 1 D3 Papasotiriou Books... 2 D2 Post Office... 3 D2 Tourist Police... 4 D2 Volos General Hospital... 5 F4 To Camping Hellas (17km); Kato Gatzea (17km); Sikia Fig Tree Camping (17km) Agios Konstantinos Square Association of Magnesia... A2 Volos Information Centre & Hotels' 6 Tsitsilianou 20 Agios Konstantinos Saratsi SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Archaeological Museum... F4 Kitsos Makris Folk Art Centre... F3 Tsalapatas Brickworks Museum... A Polymeri Iatrou Tzanou Tsopotou SLEEPING Pagasitikos Gulf 7 Light House Hotel Aegli C2 Hotel Alexandros C2 Hotel Roussas F4 Park Hotel E3 Volos Palace Hotel B1 To Agria (5km) To Sporades (45km) CENTRAL GREECE

133 252 THESSALY Around Larisa Book accommodation online at THESSALY Around Larisa 253 CENTRAL GREECE pecially impressive is the large collection of painted grave stelae (pillars) from the nearby Hellenistic site of Dimitrias. Housing the superb collection of late folk art historian Kitsos Makris, the Kitsos Makris Folk Art Centre (% ; Afendouli/Kitsou Makri 38; admission free; h8.30am-12.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-2pm Sun) is an intimate house-museum that also features 25 paintings by Theophilos Hatzimichael, mostly small murals that were carefully removed from buildings around the Pelion Peninsula. The museum is maintained by the University of Thessaly. Tsalapatas Brickworks Museum (% ; South Gate; admission 3; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon 1 Mar 15 Oct, 10am-5pm 16 Oct 28 Feb) From 1926 until 1975, the Tsalapatas Rooftile and Brickworks was part of the cultural fabric of Volos. In 2006, the restored plant opened as a handsome historical museum with brick-making machinery, grinding mills and massive kilns on display, complete with museum café and shop. Sleeping BUDGET Hotel Roussas (% ; fax ; Iatrou Tzanou 1; s/d 29/35; a) This small and friendly no-frills waterfront hotel near the Archaeological Museum has 15 spotless rooms with balcony. Street-side rooms, however, will catch weekend traffic noise. The nearest camping grounds to Volos are side by side at Kato Gatzea, 17km away, on the west coast of the Pelion Peninsula. The buses BROKEN ENGLISH FIXED to Milies and Platanias pass both grounds. Sikia Fig Tree Camping (% ; fax ; camp sites per adult/tent 5.50/3.60) is a wellmanaged facility with a decent restaurant, minimarket and beach bar. Book ahead if you plan to come in July or August. Camping Hellas (% ; fax ; camp sites per adult/tent 5.50/3.60) shares the same beach as its neighbour and is equal in most respects. MIDRANGE Hotel Alexandros (% ; fax ; Topali 13; s/d/tr 45/65/80; a) The well-maintained Alexandros is one of the best-value waterfront hotels. Large rooms feature wooden floors, desks and small bathtubs. The quietest rooms are towards the front, away from busy Iasonos St. Hotel Aegli (% ; Argonafton 24; s/d incl breakfast 60/80; a) Swank Art Deco touches extend from the lobby to the wellappointed and spacious rooms. Best of all, the Aegli is 100m from the port, and is surrounded by waterfront cafés and tavernas. Park Hotel (% ; fax ; Deligiorgi 2; s/d/tr incl breakfast 75/120/135; a) The upmarket waterfront Park has stylish rooms with balcony, along with a modern lobby bar facing the bay. An information desk has travel tips for the Pelion Peninsula. Volos Palace Hotel (% ; ace.gr; cnr Xenofontos & Thrakon; s/d/tr/ste incl breakfast 90/120/140/175; pais) The new and You can work on your Greek all you want, but you may discover that many Greeks love language, and that English is near the top of their list (after Greek!). Nor are Greeks shy about speaking English, regardless of their ability. This wonderful feature of the Greek character convinced one Greek English teacher, Anastasia, to open her own small school in Volos, in a charming highceilinged building in the city centre. I wanted to teach the way I wish, in a small establishment where the student was the priority, says Anastasia, a Volos native who has lived and worked in the UK for several years. She returned to her hometown in 1995 and started the school. I continue to do what I do because of the relationship I have with my students, which I often keep well after they ve completed their studies. She recalls one student, a timid girl named Irini who wanted to be a doctor but never managed to enter medical school. She came to the school, and she really gained confidence. All her potential came out! Now she is doing a PhD at Edinburgh in Biology. I am very proud of her. I want them to think for themselves and to appreciate the chance to study abroad. But ask anyone learning a language isn t easy. Her students only speak English at the school. The difficult part, Anastasia explains, is to get them to forget all the bad English they ve acquired. So remember, just as you re trying to order dinner in Greek, there s probably a Greek at the next table just waiting to chat with you. THE TSIPOURADHIKA Volos is famous throughout Greece for the quality and quantity (over 500) of its ouzeries and tsipouradhika. If you have not already come across one, an ouzerie (strictly speaking, called a tsipouradhiko) is a type of small restaurant where you eat from various plates of mezedhes and drink tiny bottles of tsipouro, a distilled spirit that s similar to ouzo but is a bit stronger. You can dilute it with water if you prefer it weaker, or want it to last a little longer. When you ve finished one round of mezedhes or tsipouro, you just keep ordering until you ve had your fill or can t stand up. Try any one of these faves: O Kyklos Tsipouradiko ( below ) Taverna O Petros ( p257 ) Taverna Diachroniko ( p263 ) Taverna Bakaliarakia ( p270 ) Ouzerie Dimitrouka ( p243 ) luxurious Volos Palace Hotel faces Riga Fereou, just 200m from the waterfront. The capacious rooms here are handsomely decorated, and most have sweeping balcony sea views. Eating Since Volos is considered the ouzerie capital of Greece (see the boxed text, above ), it would be a shame not to eat and drink as the locals do. Typical mezedhes include spetsofaï (stewed pork sausages), ohtapodi (octopus) and fried calamari. O Kyklos Tsipouradiko (% ; Mikrasiaton 85; mezedhes ) Flagstone floors and woodbeamed ceilings lend plenty of atmosphere to this popular student hang-out. The speciality is potatoes baked in a traditional wood-fired oven. Sarris Taverna (% ; Kanari 1; mains ) Local families head for this reliable waterfront eatery at sunset for grilled calamari and sautéed red peppers, and then let the children romp at the sandy playground opposite. Ouzerie Iolkos (% ; Argonafton 32; mains 4-11) Come to this bustling and breezy Iolkos for seafood mezedhes and fresh grilled fish. A plate of fresh mackerel, salad and wine costs about 10. O Haliabalias (% ; Orpheos 8; mains ) Tucked away on a pedestrian side street near Agios Nikolaos church, O Haliabalias is known for good variations on traditional dishes like chicken with orzo pasta and briam (mixed veggies). The kitchen adjoins the cosy dining room, decorated with the owner s and former ship captain s seafaring mementos. Other good options: Apostolis Restaurant (% ; Argonafton 15; mains 3-5) Traditional eatery opposite the quay, with takeaway lunches for the ferry to the Sporades. Ekonomou O Papous (% ; Anthimou Gazi 135) Charming shop with only one item for sale: a very traditional and all-natural confection called loukoumi (jelly-like sweets with confectioner s sugar on top and often filled with walnuts or almonds; 4 per kilogram). Drinking & Entertainment For a night of music, drinking and dancing, head for the revitalised old industrial district known as the Palaia. Between the converted factory buildings and narrow alleys there are a number of good music and drinking dives waiting to be discovered. In the downtown area, around the corner of Koumoundourou and Ermou, there are numerous music bars and ouzeries. In the summer, much of the action moves to the outdoor clubs at Alykes, a breezy beach suburb 4km southwest from the city centre. Bar Balthassar (% ; Oikonomaki 76; mezedhes 5-10) In the heart of Volos café district, Balthassar is a popular beer-andmezedhes hang-out, where the music theme changes nightly. Café Aroma (% ; Filellinon 2; snacks 2-4) Near the western edge of Yeoryiou, this breezy outdoor summer café puts gravel at your feet and a cool drink or iced coffee in your hand. Flo Café (% ; Argonafton 63; h8am- 2am; ai) At the end of the waterfront, this hip café offers free wi-fi and cold drinks. CENTRAL GREECE

134 254 THESSALY Around Volos THESSALY Pelion Peninsula 255 CENTRAL GREECE Astra Bouzouki (% ; Pagathon 38; drinks 2-5) In the old Palaia district, Astra features live bouzouki music, drinks and dancing, but don t bother showing up before midnight. For movies, check out the Volos summer cinema (% ; Dimitriados 263; admission 6.50) series near the waterfront at the corner of Kartali, or the Village Cinema (% ; Giannitson 29; admission 6.50) in the old Palaia District. Getting There & Away BUS From the bus station (% ; cnr Zachou & Almyrou), buses depart for Athens ( 23.50, 4½ hours, 11 daily), Larisa ( 4.80, one hour, 10 daily), Thessaloniki ( 15.80, 2½ hours, nine daily), Trikala ( 11.80, 2½ hours, four daily) and Ioannina ( 20.30, five hours, three daily). FERRY You can buy ferry tickets from Sporades Travel (%/fax ; Argonafton 33) and Falcon Travel (% ; Argonafton 34; h7am-10pm). Ferries from Volos to the Sporades Destination Duration Fare Frequency Alonnisos 4hr daily Glossa (Skopelos) 3½hr daily Skiathos 2½hr 15 2 daily Skopelos Town 4hr daily HYDROFOIL In summer there are daily hydrofoils to Skiathos, Glossa (Skopelos), Skopelos Town and Alonnisos. Service from Volos to Trikeri and Palio Trikeri, however, is sporadic. Tickets and information are available from Sporades Travel (%/fax ; Argonafton 33) or Falcon Travel (% ; Argonafton 34; h7am-10pm). Hydrofoils from Volos to the Sporades Destination Duration Fare Frequency Alonnisos 2½hr daily Glossa (Skopelos) 1¾hr daily Skiathos 1¼hr daily Skopelos Town 2¼hr daily TRAIN The Volos train station (% ) is on Papadiamanti, about 200m northwest of Riga Fereou. There are 15 trains daily to Larisa ( 2.10, one hour). Trains run to Athens (Intercity 23.90, five hours, three daily; normal 12.80, six hours, six daily) and Thessaloniki (both via Larisa Intercity 20.20, 2½ hours, three daily; normal 7.10, three hours, three daily). Getting Around Cars can be rented from Nikolaos Pappas (% ; Iolkou 93b) and Avis (% ; fax ; Argonafton 41). AROUND VOLOS Just west of Volos are two major archaeological sites, both dating from early Greek civilisation in Thessaly. The first is Dimini (% ; admission free; h8.30am-7pm Tue-Sun), a late Neolithic site ( BC) complete with traces of neatly arranged streets and houses. The second is Sesklo (% ; admission free; h8.30am-7pm Tue-Sun), with remains of the oldest acropolis in Greece (6000 BC). The architecture at both sites typifies the complex agrarian communities that could sustain much larger populations than those of their Paleolithic hunter-gatherer ancestors. PELION PENINSULA ΠHΛΙΟΝ ΟΡΟΣ The Pelion Peninsula lies to the east and south of Volos. It consists of a mountain range, of BUSES FROM VOLOS TO THE PELION PENINSULA Destination Duration Fare Frequency Agios Ioannis 2hr daily Kala Nera 50min daily Makrinitsa (via Portaria) 45min daily Milina (via Argalasti and Horto) 1½hr daily Platanias 2hr daily Trikeri 3hr daily Tsangarada 1½hr daily Vyzitsa (via Milies) 1hr 10min daily Zagora (via Hania) 1½hr daily which the highest peak is Mt Pliassidi (1651m). The largely inaccessible eastern flank consists of high cliffs that plunge dramatically into the sea. The gentler western flank coils round the Pagasitikos Gulf. The interior is a green wonderland where trees heavy with fruit vie with wild olive groves and forests of horse chestnut, oak, walnut, eucalyptus and beech trees to reach the light of day. The villages tucked away in this profuse foliage are characterised by whitewashed, half-timbered houses with overhanging balconies, grey slate roofs and winding cobbled paths. The Pelion is a hiking mecca today, but long ago walking was simply how people went from one village to another. A network of frequently restored kalderimia (cobbled donkey pathways) connect most mountain and seaside villages. A detailed booklet in English, Walks in the Pelion by Lance Chilton, is available from Marengo Publishers ( walks.com/pilion_bk.html) and from the Old Silk Store (% , ) in Mouressi. The other useful guide is the detailed (1:50,000) Road Editions Map of Mt Pilion, available in most Greek bookshops. Many of the places to stay in the Pelion are traditional mansions known in Greek as arhontika, tastefully converted into pensions. They are wonderful places, but are often pricey. The Pelion has an enduring tradition of regional cooking, often flavoured with mountain herbs. Local specialities include fasolada (bean soup), kouneli stifadho (rabbit stew), spetsofaï and tyropsomo (cheese bread). History In mythology the Pelion was inhabited by kentavri (centaurs) creatures, half-man and half-horse, who took delight in drinking wine, deflowering virgins and generally ripping up the countryside. Not all were random reprobates, however; Chiron, considered the wisest of the group, was renowned for his skill in medicine. The Turkish occupation did not extend into the inaccessible central and eastern parts of the Pelion, and as a result the western coastal towns were abandoned in favour of mountain villages. In these remote settlements, culture and the economy flourished; silk and wool were exported to many places in Europe. The Orthodox church at the time was instrumental in maintaining Kryfa Scholia (Hidden Schools). Like other remote areas in Greece, the Pelion became a spawning ground for ideas that culminated in the War of Independence. Getting There & Away Buses to the villages of the Pelion leave from the Volos bus station ( opposite ). Northwest Pelion VOLOS TO MAKRINITSA ΒΟΛΟΣ ΠΡΟΣ ΜΑΚΡΙΝΙΤΣΑ Taking the northeastern route from Volos to Makrinitsa, the road climbs 6km to the village of Ano Volos, where you ll find the delightful Theofilos Museum (% ; Anakasia; admission free; h8am-3pm Tue-Sun). This is a mansion museum that was once home to native artist Theofilos ( ), who wandered the Pelion region trading food for murals. The upstairs wall murals speak of local scenes and personal visions. Portaria, the next village, is 12km northeast of Volos. True to form, its plateia has a splendid old plane tree, and the little 13thcentury Church of Panagia of Portaria has fine frescoes. A fork to the left in the village leads to Makrinitsa. MAKRINITSA ΜΑΚΡΙΝΙΤΣΑ pop 650 Clinging to a mountainside, Makrinitsa is aptly called the Balcony of Pelion. From a distance, the traditional houses give the impression that they are stacked on top of one another. Up close, the whitewashed structures are threaded with steep stairs crowded with potted geraniums, hydrangeas and roses. It is one of the loveliest of the Pelion villages, and also the most visited. The square is anchored by a very old plane tree with a hollow that invites kids to explore, a marble fountain and the little church of Agia Panagia. Makrinitsa is a great place to shop for camomile, oregano, mint and other local herbs. The village is a pedestrian zone; a bus terminus and car park mark the entrance. The central square is about 150m along the cobbled main street of 17 Martios Above it, cobblestone trails and dirt paths lead to over 50 stone water fountains. Stop by the Museum of Folk Art (% ; admission 2; h10am-2pm, 6-9pm Tue-Sun Jun- Sep, 10am-5pm Oct-May) to see if you can find the secret water fountain that s built into one of the thick stone walls here. The museum is a CENTRAL GREECE

135 256 THESSALY Pelion Peninsula THESSALY Pelion Peninsula 257 CENTRAL GREECE PELION PENINSULA To Lamia (115km) Pourianos Stavros Mt Pliassidi (1651m) Pouri Pagasitikos Gulf Cape Alogoporos Alogoporos Trikeri Agia Kyriaki Horefto Zagora Agia Saranda Anilio Agios Ioannis To Larisa Makrinitsa Kissos (48km) Portaria Hania Mouressi Anakasia Drakia Agriolefkes Ano Volos Mt Pelion Volos (1455m) Dimini Agria Agios Vlasios Pinakates Kato Lehonia Ano Lehonia Vyzitsa Minas Agios Milies Platanidia Malaki Kato Gatzea Kala Nera E75 Palio Trikeri (Nisos) Afissos restored 1844 mansion where the Makrinitsa of old is proudly on view. Take the winding steps leading down from the plateia about 25m to the museum. A nearby shop, Ilios (% ; h10am-8pm), features locally made jewellery and pottery. Sleeping & Eating There are several hotels and domatia within 200m of the town square. Prices listed here generally increase by 50% on winter weekends. There are several good cafés around the main square; choose your favourite view and have a seat. Arhontiko Theodora (% ; dora-pelion.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast from 35/45/60) With views over the village square, this eight-room, Damouhari Fakistra Tsangarada Mylopotamos Pelion Peninsula Milina Lambinou Xinovrisi Argalasti Horto Siki Lafkos Potistika Promyri Platanias Evia 0 10 km 0 5 miles A E G E A N S E A Mortias Katigiorgis Skiathos Strait To Skopelos (8km); Alonnisos (25km) Skiathos Town Skiathos Tsoungria traditionally styled and welcoming mansion offers excellent value, with bonus points for the canopied beds. Kentavros Hotel (% ; fax ; r from 45) You ll have to squeeze past a few flowerpots as you climb the steps to the welcoming Kentavros, with large and spotless balconied rooms overlooking the plateia and surrounding countryside. Taverna Leonides (% ; mains ) This friendly hole-in-the-wall is just above the village church. A house speciality is a locally made sausage stuffed with rice and herbs. Taverna A-B (% ; mains ) A basic out-of-the-way eatery, the A-B makes the most of strictly local produce and meat in dishes like roast pork in wine, lamb soup and a mountain favourite rabbit in red wine sauce. Follow the signs 150m along the ridge path from the central square. okritsa Hotel Restaurant (% ; Portaria; mains 4-16) Head to the Portaria plateia to find this welcoming family taverna serving creative Pelion favourites like slow-roasted lamb, or roasted greens with egg. Owner Eleni Karaïskou s menu includes appetisers like grilled feta, tomato and peppers, made only with local ingredients. Kritsa also doubles as a small hotel with eight rooms ( 40 to 55), each traditionally furnished with four-poster beds, lace curtains and woven rugs. The best part: you can wake up to an excellent breakfast downstairs, included in the room rate. Also recommended: Achilles Hotel (% ; fax ; Makrinitsa; s/d 40/50) Over the central plateia, simple and comfortable. Skalakia Taverna (% ; Portaria; mains 4-9) Great for mountain stews and lamb grills. Down the steps by the village kiosk in Portaria. MAKRINITSA TO HANIA ΜΑΚΡΙΝΙΤΣΑ ΠΡΟΣ ΧΑΝΙΑ Back on the main Volos Zagora route, the road continues another 15km to the modern village of Hania, with views to both the Aegean and the Pagastikos Gulf. About 3km uphill from here is the ski resort of Agriolefkes (% ; lift day passes per weekday/weekend 10/16). This small resort (elevation 1350m) sports two ski lodges and is open, snowfall permitting, from late December to mid- March. In addition to a 5km cross-country track, there are three downhill ski runs and two lifts. Northeast Pelion ZAGORA ΖΑΓΟΡΑ From Hania, the road zigzags down through chestnut trees to a junction leading to Zagora, the largest of the Pelion villages and a major fruit-growing centre it s the apple capital of Greece. Until a blight ruined the silk industry in 1850, the town produced fine silk for export. Zagora is a long, rambling village, as the approach along the main road testifies, and is not as dependent on tourism as other villages in the area. The very successful Zagora agricultural cooperative was founded in 1916 and has been instrumental in promoting a sustainable agricultural economy in the village region. Stop by the Elliniko Museum (admission 2; h10am-2.30pm & pm), dedicated to War of Independence hero Rigas Fereos. It was once home to a small classroom where a lone priest taught children in secret, hidden from the Turks who banned schools of any sort among the rebellious Greeks. The museum is just pass the turn-off to Horefto. With your own transport, you can reach the remote and laid-back Pouri, which spills down a steep mountainside to a small bay with a few domatia and tavernas. Back at the road, the right turn takes you through a series of villages to Tsangarada. This route is one of the most scenically spectacular in the Pelion. The flower-draped village of Kissos, less than 1km off the main road, is built on steep terraces surrounding the 18th-century Church of Agia Marina, whose frescoes are considered the finest in the Pelion. From Kissos, a 6km road leads past Agios Dimitrios down to the coastal resort of Agios Ioannis. The main road continues on to the agricultural village of Mouressi and its seaside neighbour Damouhari. Sleeping & Eating Arhontiko Dhrakopoulou (% ; fax ; Zagora; r incl breakfast 60) Don t expect to find room numbers at this refurbished Pelion mansion on the main plateia of Zagora. Instead, the name of a local flower designates each of the five simply furnished rooms. The pension is managed by the local Women s Association, whose favourite flowers would seem to include gardenias, hydrangeas and roses. Take your pick. Arhontiko Stamou (% ; d/ste incl breakfast from 70/100; p) manages to combine fine traditional décor with modern touches like long beds, big showers and satellite TV. There s a mellow music café next door called Anemella, which is Greek for silkworm a reference to Zagora s agricultural roots. Two good tavernas occupy the main square of Zagora s Agios Georgios: Taverna O Kiriazis (% ; mains ), with plenty of grills and oven-ready dishes; and Taverna O Petros (% ; mains ), where you can start with a complimentary shot of tsipouro (distilled spirit) before sampling village fare, including several veggie dishes. CENTRAL GREECE

136 258 THESSALY Pelion Peninsula Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at THESSALY Pelion Peninsula 259 CENTRAL GREECE HOREFTO ΧΟΡΕΥΤΟ Eight kilometres downhill from Zagora, Horefto is a low-key resort with palm trees and a long sandy beach. It s also the mythical home of Chiron, a roving centaur who healed the sick in the days when doctors still made house calls. The main beach is quite decent, but more-isolated beaches are within walking distance, north and south of the main village. Pretty and isolated Agia Saranda beach is 2km south, with three simple and comfortable beach domatia available, in addition to both a nearby taverna and weekend-only club. Sleeping & Eating Camping ground (% ; camp sites per adult/tent 5/3) Shaded by plane trees, this basic ground at the main beach caters mostly to caravans. Hotel Hagiati (% ; hagiati.htm; s/d 40/50; p) Spacious tile-and-wood rooms, balconies and overhead fans make the reliable Hagiati good value. It s opposite the beach as you enter Horefto. Maribou Hotel (% ; hotel.gr; s/d/ste 48/65/100; pai) Renovated in 2007, the welcoming and efficient Maribou sits on a hillside overlooking the sea. A 250m path brings you to the beach (1km away by road). Try the friendly and always reliable Taverna O Petros (% ; mains ), featuring fish grills and a good variety of veggie dishes (ladhera fasting food; baked or stewed with plenty of olive oil), including a tasty local favourite, hortopites (pies made with wild greens and cheese). AGIOS IOANNIS ΑΓΙΟΣ ΙΩAΝΝΗΣ pop 659 The once-sleepy coastal resort of Agios Ioannis is now the busiest of the eastern resorts, but there s still plenty of room, and the nearby beaches are very good. Small hotels and busy tavernas line the waterfront, and two sandy beaches lie just north (Plaka) and south (Papa Nero) of town. Les Hirondelles Travel Agency (% ; in the middle of the village boardwalk, is a good source of information about accommodation as well as car and motorbike rental. It offers trail maps of the cobbled pathways and can organise small hiking tours, water sports and horse riding, boating, sea kayaking and mountain-biking excursions. Sleeping You can expect the higher July and August rates quoted here to drop by about 25% at other times. Pension Katerina (% , ; s/d/f from 25/30/45; a) A narrow lane off the waterfront leads to this welcoming gem. Rooms are light, tidy and charming. Families will like the three apartments that have kitchenettes. Hotel Kentrikon (% ; -kentrikons.gr; s/d 50/60; pais) This place goes back to 1937, when it was the village s first tourist hotel, a modest six-room affair. Today, 22 traditionally furnished, woodenshuttered rooms overlook the sea. Anesis Hotel (%/fax ; s/d incl breakfast 50/70/80; a) The very welcoming Anesis is set back from the street, and features large and comfortable pastel-toned rooms. Breakfast is served on a vine-shaded terrace overlooking the sea. Sofokles Hotel (% ; s/d incl breakfast from 60/90; as) The newest hotel in town, the swank Sofokles features modern, well-appointed rooms with wood and marble touches, and sea views from 14 of its 20 balconied rooms. Also recommended: Camping ground (% ; fax ; camp sites per adult/tent 5/5) Basic and pine-shaded, just south of the waterfront. Hotel Kelly (% ; s/d incl breakfast 35/45; a) Friendly, modern and good value, with a lobby bar opposite the beach. Harikeleia Paniou Apartments (% ; s/d/tr/f from 40/60/80/100; pa) Kitchenettes and satellite TV, opposite Papa Nero beach. Eating Taverna Orea Ammoudia (% ; fax ; mains 4-7) At the end of Papa Nero beach, this family taverna serves excellent Greek dishes and good breakfasts. Try the unusual kritama (tomatoes with sea herbs), or choose from traditional oven-ready dishes, fresh fish and lamb grills. Taverna Poseidonas (% ; mains 4-8) The owners of Poseidonas are proud of their local reputation for serving only their own catch. In addition to the usual by-the-kilo offerings, you can always sample daily stand-bys like mousakas and roasted lamb. Akrogiali Apostolis (% ; mains 5-9) Among the waterfront tavernas, Apostolis serves up generous portions of Greek taverna basics like lamb in lemon sauce or stuffed tomatoes and peppers. Pizza Venezia (% ; pizza ) This place has excellent, fresh pizza and friendly service. Find it upstairs, on the waterfront. DAMOUHARI & MOURESSI ΝΤΑΜOYΧΑΡH & ΜΟΥΡΕΣΙ The picturesque hamlet of Damouhari is next to a rambling grove of olive trees that borders a pebble beach and protected cove, perfect for swimming. In the old days, the trees shielded the buildings from passing pirate ships. According to local lore, the village got its name from the expression dos mou hari (give me grace). The little church of Agios Nikolaos contains several fine frescoes. Damouhari is also the starting point for a beautiful 3km walk to Fakistra. Just 4km southwest of Damouhari (2km on the path) is the low-key farming village of Mouressi, nestled off the main road, 3km north of Tsangarada. Sleeping & Eating Domatia Marika (% ; s/d 40/50; a) Friendly, clean and cosy, this domatia sits above the minimarket. Domatia Victoria (% ; s/d 45/55; ai) One of two very decent domatia in Damouhari, this place has views of the bay. Old Silk Store (% , ; Mouressi; d 65) Housed in a 19th-century neoclassical building with personality to spare, this place is a Mouressi landmark and features traditional-style rooms in a garden setting. It s gracefully managed by British transplant Jill Sleeman, who offers a daily homemade breakfast ( 10) as well. The pension is home to Mulberry Travel (% ), which can take care of travel details, organise guided walks in the Pelion and even arrange cooking lessons in the kitchen of a local taverna. Hotel Damouhari (%/fax ; r 85; pis) Rooms here are often booked far in advance however, stop to check out the nautical antiques in the lobby, or to have a drink in the Kleopatra Miramar bar, named after the owner-ship captain s first wife. Taverna Karagatsi (% ; Damouhari) Operated by the same family as at Hotel Damouhari. You can count on traditional taverna fare (with fresh salads and tasty mezedhes), overlooking the small and picturesque harbour below. Taverna Bastounis (% ; Damouhari) Down the lane from Karagatsi, this more basic place has excellent fish grills cooked, served and caught by the owner of the same name. Taverna O Vangelis (% ; Mouressi; mains ) Follow the locals here for good grills and rich stews. It s 1km from Mouressi s Old Silk Store. TSANGARADA ΤΣΑΓΚΑΡAΔΑ pop 710 Tsangarada (tsang-ah-rah-dah), nestling in oak and plane forests, is a rambling and spread-out village comprising the four separate communities of Agio Taxiarhes, Agia Paraskevi, Agios Stefanos and Agia Kyriaki. The largest is Agia Paraskevi, which is just north of the main Volos Milies Tsangarada road. The bus stops 200m from the central square of Paraskevis. The plane tree in this square is said to be one of the largest and oldest in Greece. There is an ATM next to the post office. Sleeping & Eating There are several domatia and roadside tavernas near Paraskevis and on the way to Mylopotamos. Villa Ton Rodon (% ; rodon.gr; Agia Paraskevi; s/d/tr incl breakfast 50/60/65) This friendly and tidy 10-room pension with upper balcony views to the coast is surrounded by the family garden and orchard, offering great value and a quiet location. Lost Unicorn Hotel (% ; Agia Paraskevi; s/d incl breakfast 80/110) Persian carpets, slow-swirling fans and antique-outfitted rooms grace this exquisite and well-appointed 19th-century mansion. The Greek and English owners, Christos and Claire, put together a garden breakfast worthy of the scenery, which, believe it or not, often includes singing nightingales. Taverna To Kalivi (% ; mains 5-8) Look for the small sign on the road at Taxiarhon to find this well-regarded old-fashioned taverna, known for meat stews, grills and wild greens in season. Paradisos Restaurant (% ; Agia Paraskevi; mains ) Roast goat, tyropita, stuffed zucchini flowers, homemade preserves and local retsina are top-notch at this roadside eatery across from the post office. CENTRAL GREECE

137 260 THESSALY Pelion Peninsula Book accommodation online at THESSALY Pelion Peninsula 261 CENTRAL GREECE MYLOPOTAMOS ΜΥΛΟΠΟΤΑΜΟΣ Scenic Mylopotamos is divided by a rocky outcrop, with a natural tunnel connecting two small pebble beaches. It s 6km along the road from Tsangarada s Agia Paraskevi. Sleeping & Eating Diakoumis Rooms (% ; s/d/tr from 50/70/80; pa) Just 500m before the village, Diakoumis features spacious cliff-side rooms with wooden floors and clear views of the small bay and beyond, as well as three self-catering apartments (from 90). Taverna Angelika (% ; mains ) Angelika gets a thumbs-up from local Pelion residents for the well-prepared food and good wine, not to mention the harbour view from the outdoor terrace. Stuffed calamari for two, local greens with sea herbs, a plate of olives and feta and plenty of local wine is about 20. There are also a few domatia available. West-Central Pelion VOLOS TO MILIES & VYZITSA ΒΟΛΟΣ ΠΡΟΣ ΜΗΛΙΕΣ & ΒΥΖΙΤΣΑ From Volos, the west-coast road heads south through the touristy villages of Agria, Kato Lehonia and Ano Lehonia. A left turn on a branch road to Agios Vlasios makes a lovely detour. A right turn leads to the seaside resorts of Platanidia, Malaki and Kato Gatzea. After the tortuous and narrow roads of the eastern Pelion villages, this stretch of road is a blessing. With your own transport, Kala Nera can be a great alternative to crowded Volos as a base for exploring the Pelion. The friendly Hotel Victoria (% ; fax ; s/d 35/40; pa) is just opposite Kala Nera beach, the only decent beach on this crowded coast. Further along the coast road, just past Kala Nera, about 22km from Volos, there is a turn-off to the left for Tsangarada. A little way along here, another turn-off to the left leads through apple orchards on the way to the picturesque villages of Milies and Vyzitsa. MILIES ΜΗΛΙΕΣ pop 636 Milies (mih-lih-ess) played a major role in the intellectual and cultural awakening that led to Greek independence. It was also the birthplace of Anthimos Gazis ( ), who organised the revolutionary forces in Thessaly in 1821, and toured the mountain villages of the Pelion inspiring local resistance and leadership. On the central square is Agios Taxiarhis, a church with beautiful 16th-century frescoes. Just 100m beyond the central square, Milies Museum (% ; admission free; h10am-2.30pm & 6-9pm) houses a display of local crafts and costumes. Nearby Library of Milies (% ; h10am-2.30pm; i) is home to handwritten books from the time of the War of Independence, but it keeps things modern with internet use for visitors. Sleeping & Eating Locals will tell you the rule of thumb is stay in Vyzitsa, eat in Milies, and the number of choices in each village confirms the advice. Korbas Bakery (% ; pies ) Gastronomic highlights of Milies include the scrumptious tyropsomo and eliopsomo (olive bread) at this popular bakery on the main Volos Tsangarada road. Anna Na Ena Milo (% ; snacks 2-4; h9am-10pm) The name of this crepe-and-jam café derives from a famous children s reader called Anna Have an Apple. It s opposite the police station, 50m from the plateia. Panorama Psistaria (% ; mains 5-7) Beyond the central square on the road to Vyzitsa, this friendly grill offers a range of local dishes including zucchini pie, pork chops in wine, and roast sausages. VYZITSA ΒΥΖΙΤΣΑ pop 277 Just 2km beyond Milies is the handsome village of Vyzitsa. Its cobbled pathways wind between traditional slate-roofed houses. To reach Vyzitsa s shady central square, walk up the cobbled path by Thetis Café, near the main parking area. Sleeping & Eating As in much of the Pelion, accommodation in Vyzitsa can be pricey. Thetis Hotel (% ; s/d incl breakfast 35/45) For basic but comfortable rooms with views, check out this very friendly pension near the car park. The rustic café nearby serves a simple breakfast on the terrace, where the cats await your scraps. Hotel Stoikos (% ; fax ; s/d/tr 60/75/95) The well-managed 16-room Stoikos offers very good value, with wood floors, beamed ceilings and stained glass THE LITTLEST TRAIN In 1895, a 13km railway line was built between Volos and Ano Lehonia. By 1903, the narrowgauge line was extended to Milies, making the town a prosperous centre of commerce. To Trenaki (% ; adult/child 12.90/8.50), the steam train that used to chug along this route, retired formally in 1971, but was revived in 1997 as a weekend and holiday tourist attraction. The popular four-carriage train leaves Ano Lehonia at 11am and returns around 5pm, leaving you time to stroll around Milies. A restored Belgian coal-burning locomotive pulled the train when the route first reopened. But in 2000, a new diesel engine went into service after the train operators grew tired of following the smoke-belching original with a water tanker to put out the frequent grass fires started by airborne sparks. Despite the environmental upgrade, To Trenaki is still called Moudzouris, an affectionate term meaning the smudger. on the spacious upper-floor rooms, all with great views. Rooms Aphrodite Dimou (% ; fax ; s/d/tr incl breakfast from 60/80/100; a) A 50m path from the plateia will bring you to one of the best-value places in Vyzitsa. The Aphrodite is small, charming and very private. Rooms are light and comfortable, and come with balcony views. Georgaras Restaurant (% ; mains 5-11) In the evening you can enjoy unusual Greek dishes at this comfortable inn on the Vyzitsa Milies road, including stuffed pork with orange sauce, and rabbit in red-wine sauce. South Pelion SOUTH TO TRIKERI The southern part of the Pelion has a wideopen feel to it, with sparsely forested hills and countless olive groves. Before heading inland after Kala Nera or Tsangarada, the road skirts the little coastal village of Afissos, winds upwards through to the large, inland farming community of Argalasti, and then forks the left fork continues inland, the right goes to the coastal resorts of Horto and Milina. From Milina the road branches southeast towards Platanias and southwest to Trikeri. From Volos, a bus leaves twice daily for Trikeri. HORTO & MILINA ΧΟΡΤΟ & ΜΗΛIΝΑ Milina is the slightly larger of these two coastal villages, and caters to package tourists. Both are on a quiet part of the peninsula with pristine water and a few inviting pebble beaches. There are tavernas and domatia facing the harbour at both villages, and two camping grounds nearby, both dominated by caravans. Milina Holidays (% ; on the waterfront can help with accommodation, as well as arranging bike and boat rentals; horse riding at Katigiorgis (a small fishing port on the southeast point of the peninsula); and walks to the inland mountain village of Lafkos. TRIKERI ΤPIΚΕΡΙ pop 1182 There is an end-of-the-world feel about this part of the Pelion, as the road from Milina to Trikeri becomes more and more desolate. Donkeys outnumber cars in Trikeri, and the residents pride themselves on their tradition as seafarers, fighters against the Turks in the War of Independence, and upholders of traditional customs and dress. The week following Easter is one of constant revelry as dancing takes place every day and women try to outdo each other in their local costume finery. AGIA KYRIAKI ΑΓIΑ ΚΥΡΙΑΚH This is the last stop on the Pelion Peninsula, a winding 5km drive down the hill from Trikeri, or a quick 1km walk down a cobblestone path. This fishing village sees few tourists, and the bright, orange-coloured boats are put to good use by a hard-working population of around 200. There is one domatia and a couple of fish tavernas next door, facing the opposite shores of Evia. PALIO TRIKERI ΠΑΛΙO ΤΡIΚΕΡΙ If you really must go that one step further to get away from it all, then head for this little island with a year-round population of less than 50, just off the coast and inside the Pagasitikos Gulf; it s often called Nisos (Island) for short. To reach tiny Nisos from the fishing village of Alogoporos, a five-minute boat ride away, telephone Nikos at Taverna Diavlos (% , ) on Nisos. There are a couple of CENTRAL GREECE

138 262 THESSALY Trikala Book accommodation online at THESSALY Around Trikala 263 CENTRAL GREECE domatia at the taverna. Wild camping is possible as well. But the main activities on Palio Trikeri are explaining to locals why you re there, and then explaining to yourself why you re leaving. PLATANIAS ΠΛΑΤΑΝΙΑΣ Platanias (plah-tah-nih-ahs) was a popular resort until the hydrofoil service stopped in 2001, allowing it to return to its lowkey roots. There s a good sand-and-pebble beach, a camping ground and a few tavernas and domatia. From roughly early June through to the end of August, an excursion boat, the Africana (% ), makes daily runs between Platanias and the island of Skiathos (adult/child 35/20). The 100-passenger boat departs Platanias at 9.30am and returns at around 5.30pm. Tickets can be purchased at the dock kiosk in Platanias. TRIKALA ΤΡΙΚΑΛΑ pop 49,809 Trikala (tree-kah-lah) sits 66km west of Larisa, between Karditsa and Kalambaka. It was originally Trikki, as mentioned by Homer, and the reputed birthplace of Asclepius, the god of healing. It s an attractive and bustling agricultural town through which flows the River Litheos, and it s a major hub for buses. While provincial Trikala s attractions hardly warrant a special trip, it boasts a lively nightlife and serves as a gateway to the South Pindos mountain resorts to the west. Orientation The River Litheos bisects the town. Near the two squares, the river is more of a landscaped channel with a narrow bridge separating them the plane tree shaded central square of Iroön Polytehniou is on the northeast bank, and rambling Riga Fereou sits on the southwest bank. Trikala s main thoroughfare, Asklipiou, begins here as a pedestrian precinct and then runs south 700m to the train station. The bus station is on Othonos on the west bank of the river, 200m from Riga Fereou. Information EMERGENCY Police station (% ; Sidiras Merarhias) A left turn off the Larisa road, 1km from the town centre. INTERNET ACCESS In Spot (% ; Vyronos 26; per hr 2.50) K-NET (% ; Asklipiou 11; per hr 2; h24hr) Web (% ; cnr Asklipiou & Garivaldi; per hr 1.80; h24hr) MONEY Six banks ring the squares on either side of the river. POST Post office (Sarafi 13) Just west of Riga Fereou. TOURIST INFORMATION Poulianiti Travel Services (% ; fax ; Vironos 37) Can help with accommodation, travel bookings and area tours. Sights It is worth a wander up to the gardens surrounding the restored Byzantine Fortress of Trikala. An adjacent café-bar overlooks the town. Walk 400m up Sarafi from the central square and look for the sign pointing right. Just before the turn for the fortress are the remains of the Sanctuary of Asclepius. More interesting is the old Turkish quarter of Varousi, just east of the fortress. It s a fascinating area of narrow streets and fine old houses with overhanging balconies. Another 200m up the hill from Varousi, you ll find the Chapel of Profitis Ilias. On the other side of town is the Koursoun Tzami, built in the 16th century by Sinan Pasha, the same architect who built the Blue Mosque in İstanbul. The mosque was restored in the mid-1990s with EU funding. From the bus station head south and follow the river for 300m. The station is on your right. Sleeping Hotel Palladion (% ; Vyronos 4; s/d without bathroom 22/30) Trikala s only budget option, next to Riga Fereou, has small and Spartan rooms. Hotel Panellinio (% ; linion.com; Riga Fereou 2; s/d incl breakfast 40/55; a) Dating from 1914, this welcoming and restored neoclassical hotel facing the river offers spacious rooms with elegant and traditional furnishings. Breakfast is served in the adjacent café. Hotel Divani (% ; fax ; Dionysiou 13; s/d incl breakfast 42/58) The Divani BUSES FROM TRIKALA Destination Duration Fare Frequency Athens 4½hr 22 8 daily Delphi (via Amfissa) 4hr daily Elati 1hr daily Ioannina 3½hr daily Kalambaka 30min daily Lamia 2hr 8 8 daily Larisa 1hr 5.30 half-hourly Neraidochori 1½hr daily Pertouli 1¼hr daily Thessaloniki 3½hr 15 6 daily Volos 2hr daily hotels around Greece are usually top-end affairs, but this B-class version opposite Kitrilaki is friendly and good value. It has smartly furnished rooms, most with balcony and bathtub. Eating The café life in Trikala is centred on the northern end of Asklipiou and across the river in the old Manavika district. You ll find traditional kafeneia are mostly in the little streets to the north of 25 Martiou. For cheap eats, head east from Riga Fereou about 100m to the smaller Kitrilaki, where you ll find 1.50 plates of sizzling souvlaki. Kebob Karthoutsos (% ; Ioulietas Adam 5; mains 3-6) It s worth waiting for a table at this busy eatery near Riga Fereou, where a table full of lean pork souvlaki, horta (wild greens), feta and cold beer costs less than 10 per head. Taverna Palia Istoria (Old Story; % ; Ypsilanti 3; mains ) This intimate eatery specialises in mezedhes with a twist, like the feta psiti (baked feta with tomatoes, potatoes, ham and grilled onions), a bargain at 4. Taverna Diachroniko (% ; Manavika district; mains 4-8) Small and traditional, this snappy alleyway tsipouradhiko (a place that serves ouzo and light snacks) serves up excellent salads and grills. Peri Yefseon Restaurant (All About Taste; % ; Hadzipetrou 23; mains 8-15) This upscale addition to Trikala s old Manavika district features a modern open kitchen and a menu and wine list that range across the Mediterranean. Drinking & Entertainment On weekend nights, the trend in Trikala seems to be to tank up on coffee along Asklipiou, then after midnight cross the bridge for drinks, mezedhes and music. Trikala s nightlife revolves around the Manavika district, a three-block maze of narrow passageways and outdoor tables crammed with tavernas, lamp-lit music bars, small ouzerie and all-night cafés. Head to Corte Cafe (% ; Asklipiou 12) under the striped awning for good coffee, drinks, cold beer and snacks. For authentic Greek rembetika (blues music), follow the locals to Aparhes Bar (% ; Amalias 8; hthu-sat), along the riverbank. Getting There & Away BUS Buses depart from Trikala s KTEL bus station (% ; cnr Othonos & Garivaldi). T R A I N From Trikala railway station (% ) there are trains to Kalambaka ( 1.20, 20 minutes, eight daily), Larisa ( 3.30, one hour, four daily), Athens (Intercity 20, four hours, two daily; normal 10.60, five hours, two daily) and Thessaloniki ( 8.40, 2½ hours, two daily). AROUND TRIKALA Pyli Πύλη About 18km from Trikala is the village of Pyli, which means gate just west of Pyli is a spectacular gorge leading into one of Greece s more attractive wilderness areas. At the gorge s entrance is the 13th-century Church of Porta Panagia, with an impressive pair CENTRAL GREECE

139 264 THESSALY Meteora Book accommodation online at THESSALY Meteora, Kastraki & Kalambaka 265 CENTRAL GREECE A FIGHT FOR THE RIVER Conservationists, industrialists and villagers are waging a debate over the government s construction of a 135m-high hydroelectric dam near Mesohora village on the upper River Aheloös in the South Pindos range. The EU-funded irrigation project has been stalled in the Greek courts for years. The government built the dam first, then did the environmental studies. As a result, the Greek courts have denied permits. If the already constructed dam is allowed to begin operation, the ecological effects would be felt as far south as the wetland wildlife sanctuaries around Messolongi. In Greek mythology, Aheloös is god of the river his mother Tethys is crying now because, as one local put it, Her son is being cut into pieces for money and power. of mosaic icons and a marble iconostasis. To reach the church, cross the footbridge over the river and turn left. The 16th-century Moni Agiou Vissarion stands on a slope of Mt Koziakas, 5km from Pyli. To get here, cross the bridge over the river and follow the sign uphill for 500m. Elati & Pertouli Ελάτη & Περτούλη With your own transport, you can explore the once-remote mountainous areas west and north of Elati, including the beautiful Tria Potamia (Three Rivers) area. A scenic halfday circular drive brings you to Kalambaka. Forty-nine kilometres southwest of Elati, towards Arta, is the controversial Mesohora Dam (see the boxed text, above ). About 10km of this scenic road is unsealed, but is passable by car. Buses (usually) cover this route as far as Gardiki, which is 5km past the Alexiou Bridge. From Pyli, the 40km road north to the village of Neraidochori climbs steadily through breathtaking alpine scenery, passing the villages of Elati and Pertouli. Elati is something of a hill station for Trikala and has grown into a thriving resort with 1000 beds. It was called Tierna before the Germans burned it to the ground for harbouring Greek resistance fighters in WWII. Pertouli is a low-key version of Elati, and the University of Thessaloniki maintains a forest research station here. ACTIVITIES Kayaking enthusiasts come to the beautiful Tria Potamia area, 30km north of Mesohora, to ride the waters of the River Aheloös. The popular sport attracts white-water jockeys from across Europe. Hiking trails crisscross the region; a popular hiking path begins at the end of Pertouli and reaches a summit at Neraida (2074m). There is a small but locally popular skiing centre (% ) 2km before Pertouli on the road from Elati. Skis and snowboards can be hired ( 10 to 15 per day) and the centre has a cosy family atmosphere. Contact Mr Thanasis Samouris, the Trikala representative of Trekking Hellas (% , ; gptravel@otenet.gr), for information on rafting, canoeing, hiking, mountain-biking, horse riding and rock climbing. Half-day trips begin at about 25. SLEEPING & EATING Koziakas Hotel (% ; fax ; Elati; s/d incl breakfast 35/50) For a bit of wood-beamed Greek Swiss-chalet ambience, try the Koziakas on Elati s main road, with huge and comfortable rooms. The hotel restaurant is popular for boar chops and venison stew among its gamey offerings ( 6 to 8). Hotel Papanastasiou (% ; fax ; Elati; s/d/studio incl breakfast 40/72/100) This well-managed hotel, on the main road, is Elati s largest, with 35 well-appointed rooms. The attached taverna, O Hondros, specialises in grilled liver and other organ delicacies ( 5 to 7). METEORA ΜΕΤΕΩΡΑ Meteora (meh-teh-o-rah) is an extraordinary place, and one of the most visited in all of Greece. The massive pinnacles of smooth rock are ancient and yet could be the setting for a futuristic science fiction tale. The monasteries atop them add to this strange and beautiful landscape. Each monastery is built around a central courtyard surrounded by monks cells, chapels and a refectory. In the centre of each courtyard is the katholikon (main church). Meteora is listed as a World Heritage Site. History The name Meteora derives from the Greek adjective meteoros, which means suspended in the air. The word meteor is from the same METEORA, KASTRAKI & KALAMBAKA To Grevena (60km) To Ioannina (126km) A INFORMATION All Time Café... 1 A5 Hollywood Café... 2 C6 Hospital... 3 B6 Newsstand... 4 B6 Post Office... 5 C6 Surf City Internet Cafe... 6 C6 Tourist Police... 7 B6 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Agiou Antoniou (closed to the public).. 8 B5 Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary... 9 C5 Moni Agias Triados C5 Ioanninon KASTRAKI Kentriki Kastra kiou Patriarhou B Dimitriou Ipirou 7 8 Moni Agias Varvaras Rousanou C4 Moni Agiou Nikolaou Anapafsa B3 Moni Agiou Stefanou D5 Moni Megalou Meteorou B3 Moni Varlaam B3 Moni Ypapanti (closed to the public).. 16 B2 Morning Market (Friday)...(see 41) Psaropetra Lookout C3 SLEEPING Alsos House C5 Boufidis Camping A4 Makedonias 16 Mai Meteoron Ploutarhou Ioanninon Pindou Dimarhiou Rodou Train Station 39 Ikonomou Masouta 11 Sidirodromon Platonos 21 Vlahavas G Kondili Ramidi C KALAMBAKA 22 Riga Fereou Trikalon Hatzipetrou Deligian 10 Pindou m miles 34 D Doupiani House A4 Guest House Elena C5 Hotel Edelweiss C6 Hotel Kastraki A5 Hotel Meteora B6 Hotel Meteora Kastraki A5 Hotel Tsikeli A5 Koka Roka Rooms C5 Rooms Ziogas Vasiliki A5 Sydney Hotel A5 Vrachos Camping A6 EATING Koka Roka Taverna...(see 27) Taverna Bakaliarakia B5 Taverna Gardenia A5 Taverna Meteora Vavitsos A5 Taverna O Skaros D6 Taverna Panellinion B6 Taverna Paradisos A5 Taverna To Paramithi B6 ENTERTAINMENT ABG Café-Bar A5 TRANSPORT Bus Station & Ticket Office B6 Bus Stop A5 Bus Stop for Meteora & Kastraki B6 Hobby Shop B6 13 To Trikala (21km) CENTRAL GREECE

140 266 THESSALY Meteora THESSALY Kalambaka 267 CENTRAL GREECE root. Popular theories about the origin of the Meteora are often more mystical than factual (see the boxed text, opposite ). From the 11th century, hermit monks lived in the scattered caverns of Meteora. By the 14th century, Byzantine power of the Roman Empire was on the wane and Turkish incursions into Greece were on the rise, so monks began to seek safe havens away from the bloodshed. The inaccessibility of the rocks of Meteora made them an ideal retreat. The earliest monasteries were reached by climbing removable ladders. Later, windlasses were used so monks could be hauled up in nets. A story goes that when apprehensive visitors asked how frequently the ropes were replaced, the monks stock reply was when the Lord lets them break. These days, access to the monasteries is by steps that were hewn into the rocks in the 1920s, and by a convenient back road. Some windlasses can still be seen (you can have a good look at one at Agia Triada), but they are now used for hauling up provisions and an occasional Greek Orthodox priest from abroad. Sights MONASTERIES The monasteries are linked by asphalt roads, but it s possible to explore the area on foot on the old monopatia (paths). Before setting out, decide on a route. If you start early, you can see several mones (monasteries), perhaps all, in one day; the road from Kastraki to Moni Agiou Stefanou is about 10km. An alternative route involves the bus ( 1.20, 20 minutes), which picks up passengers in Kalambaka and Kastraki in the morning and returns from Moni Megalou Meteorou in the afternoon, giving you about four hours to explore several monasteries usually Moni Megalou, Moni Varlaam and the convent of Moni Varvaras Rousanou. A third choice is the middle way: take the bus to the top and work your way down on foot. Walking and climbing around the rocks can be thirsty work, but there are mobile canteens selling drinks and snacks at some monastery car parks. Be mindful of opening hours; the monks are an independent lot, and no two monasteries keep exactly the same hours. Opening hours in winter are slightly limited. Entry to each monastery is 2. Strict dress codes are enforced: no bare shoulders are allowed, men must wear trousers and women must be covered to below the knee (baggy skirts with elastic waistbands are generally provided). Moni Agiou Nikolaou Anapafsa (Monastery of St Nikolaou Anapafsa; % ; h9am-3.30pm Sat- Thu) is the nearest moni to Kastraki; it s 2km from the village square to the base of the steep steps leading to the moni. The monastery was built in the 15th century, and the superlative frescoes in its katholikon were painted by the monk Theophanes Strelizas from Crete. Especially beautiful is the 1527 fresco The Naming of Animals by Adam in Paradise. The best known of the monasteries, Moni Megalou Meteorou (Grand Meteora Monastery; % ; h9am-5pm Wed-Mon) is an imposing form built on the highest rock in the valley, 613m above sea level. Founded by St Athanasios in the 14th century, it became the richest and most powerful monastery thanks to the Serbian emperor Symeon Uros, who turned all his wealth over to the monastery and became a monk. Its katholikon has a magnificent 12-sided central dome. Its striking series of frescoes entitled Martyrdom of Saints depicts the graphic persecution of Christians by the Romans. To reach Moni Megalou from Moni Agiou Nikolaou, look for a chevron-shaped white arrow on a blue signboard along the paved road heading uphill, indicating the start of a partly cobbled path that zigzags northwest to the moni. About 700m down from Moni Megalou, Moni Varlaam (% ; h9am-4pm Fri-Wed) has a small museum and fine late-byzantine frescoes by Frangos Kastellanos. The mural The Blessed Sisois at the Tomb of Alexander the Great shows the great conqueror as a humble skeleton. Look just above the door, past the candles. Access to Moni Agias Varvaras Rousanou (% ; h9am-6pm Thu-Tue) is via a small wooden bridge. The beautiful coloured glass illuminated katholikon is the highlight here, with superb frescoes of the Resurrection and Transfiguration. The imposing steep structure of Rousanou is itself a stunning accomplishment, and is today home to an order of nuns. To reach Moni Rousanou from Moni Varlaam, walk to the signposted fork in the road and bear right. Of all the monasteries, Moni Agias Triados (Holy Trinity Monastery; % ; h9am-5pm THE METEORA: GEOLOGY OF A ROCK FOREST The jutting pinnacles and cliffs of the Meteora were once sediments of an inland sea. About 10 million years ago vertical tectonic movements pushed the entire region out of the sea at a sloping angle. The same tectonic movements caused the flanking mountains to move closer, exerting extreme pressure on the hardened sedimentary deposits. The Meteora developed netlike fissures and cracks. The weathering and erosion that followed formed the towering outcrops of rock that now vault heavenwards. The rocks were conglomerates of many types: limestone, marble, serpentinite and metamorphic, interspersed with layers of sand and shale. By the dawn of human civilisation, the rocks had weathered and eroded into fantastic shapes; the sandstone and shale washed away, isolating blocks of rock and cliffs. Where erosion was less extreme, caves and overhangs had appeared in the rock face. As early as the 11th century AD, these awesome natural caves had become the solitary abodes of hermit monks. Eventually, 24 monasteries were built on these pinnacles. Today, six are active religious sites, occupied by monks or nuns and visited by the faithful and tourists alike. Fri-Wed) has the most remote feel about it, along with the longest approach. It was featured in the 1981 James Bond film For Your Eyes Only. The views here are extraordinary, and the small katholikon is beautiful. A well-marked 1km monopati leads back to Kalambaka, ending near the Koka Roka Taverna. After the austere Moni Agias Triados, Moni Agiou Stefanou (% ; h9am-2pm & pm Tue-Sun) resembles a return to civilisation, with efficent nuns selling souvenirs and DVDs of Meteora. Among the exhibits in the museum is an exquisite embroidered picture of Christ on his epitafios (bier). The monastery is at the very end of the road, 1.5km beyond Agias Triados. For a panoramic break, walk 300m east of the signposted fork northeast of Moni Varlaam to the Psaropetra lookout, along the road to the Agias Triados and Agiou Stefanou monasteries. Activities ROCK CLIMBING Meteora has been a mecca for European rock climbers for several years. Climbers of various skill levels can choose routes from over 100 peaks and towers with names like the Tower of the Holy Ghost, the Corner of Madness and the Iron Edge. There are about 700 routes in all, covering 120 sandstone towers of the Meteora. The style is clean or traditional face climbing, and rates a 5 on the UIAA international scale. Best times weather-wise are roughly mid-march to mid-june and mid-august to mid-november. A typical climb averages three hours, and costs range from about 30 to 50 per person, depending on routes and the degree of difficulty. Most climbs reach heights between 60m and 140m. A beginner s route takes about 1½ hours on the rocks and costs only 30. (All equipment is included in prices, including harness, shoes and helmet.) There are two excellent climbing guides in Kastraki, both friends and both experienced. Contact either licensed mountain guide Lazaros Botelis (% , ; Kastraki) or mountaineering instructor Kostas Liolos (% ; kliolios@kalampaka.com; Kalambaka). For detailed information and graded routes, check out KALAMBAKA ΚΑΛΑΜΠAΚΑ pop 8138 Kalambaka, the gateway to Meteora, is almost entirely modern, having been burned to the ground by the Nazis in WWII. It takes at least a day to see all of the monasteries of Meteora, so you ll need to spend the night either in Kalambaka or the village of Kastraki ( p269 ), which is closer to the rocks. Orientation Dimarhiou is the main square in town, and the main thoroughfares of Rodou, Trikalon, Ioanninon, Kastrakiou and Vlahavas radiate from it. Most incoming buses stop on Dimarhiou, arriving by the fountain, but departing across the road behind the taxi stand. Kalambaka s other large square is Riga Fereou Trikalon connects the two. The bus station is on Ikonomou. CENTRAL GREECE

141 268 THESSALY Kalambaka Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at THESSALY Kastraki 269 CENTRAL GREECE Information Six banks with ATMs surround the central Riga Fereou on Trikalon. There is also a currency exchange window next to the post office. Hollywood Café (% ; Trikalon 67; internet access per hr 4; h9am-1am) Only a few computers, but low-key compared with the game-heavy shops nearby. Hospital (% ; Pindou) Surf City Internet Cafe (% ; Trikalon 73; internet access per hr 3; h24hr) Post office (Trikalon 24) Tourist police (% ; cnr Ipirou & Pindou) Sights & Activities First-time visitors to Kalambaka will be amazed at the vertical rocks that guard the northern edge of the town. Apart from the rocks, the only other thing in Kalambaka worth a glance is the seventh-century cathedral, the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary (admission free; h9am-1pm & 3-5pm), a threeaisle basilica with frescoes that date back to the 14th century. There is a busy morning market every Friday, next to the fountain and bus stop. Sleeping Rooms are plentiful in Kalambaka, though anything on Trikalon is subject to considerable traffic noise. okoka Roka Rooms (% ; kokaroka@yahoo.com; Kanari 21; s/d 20/40; pi) Fringed by mulberry trees in a tranquil spot below the rocks and near the path to Moni Agias Triados, the family-run Koka Roka is an institution among travellers. The five immaculate rooms are well furnished, and laundry service is available. Alsos House (% ; Kanari 5; s/d/f 30/40/70; pai) Next to Koka Roka, the well-managed and very comfortable Alsos House also has a communal kitchen, laundry and wi-fi for guests. Guest House Elena (% ; guesthouse.gr; Kanari 3; s/d/tr incl breakfast 40/50/60; pai) Tasteful and inviting, this traditional five-room guesthouse is immaculate. Three rooms include a Jacuzzi bath. English, Italian and French are spoken. Other good options: Hotel Meteora (% ; gekask@otenet.gr; Ploutarhou 14; s/d incl breakfast 25/35) Under new management, cosy and good value, on a quiet cul-de-sac below the rocks. Hotel Edelweiss (% ; E Venizelou 3; s/d/tw incl breakfast 45/60/80; pais) Well managed, with views from top floors. Eating otaverna To Paramithi (% ; Patriarhou Dimitriou 14; mains 4-7) Along with very good grills and fresh pasta, low-key Taverna To Paramithi brings in fresh seafood daily from Volos. A few local musicians often end the night here, with guitar or bouzouki in hand. Taverna O Skaros (% ; Trikalon; mains ) Locals tout the lamb and pork souvlakia as the best in Kalambaka, and for good reason; Kostas, the owner and cook, was a butcher in town years before opening O Skaros. Taverna Panellinion (% ; Dimarhiou; mains ) Panellinion serves firstrate mezedhes (such as roasted feta) and ovenready dishes such as chicken in lemon sauce, which are always with fresh local ingredients. Panellinion is just opposite the fountain and bus stop. Koka Roka Taverna (% ; Kanari 21; mains 5-8) Situated below Koka Roka Rooms ( left ), the informal taverna kitchen includes a fireplace where, most nights, succulent lamb is grilled and served with a tasty house wine. Getting There & Away B U S Buses arrive by the fountain, and depart from the kiosk and taxi stand opposite the roundabout (across the road from the arrival point). Buses from Kalambaka Destination Duration Fare Frequency Delphi (via Amfissa) 4½hr daily Athens 5½hr 23 7 daily Ioannina 3hr daily Lamia 2½hr daily Metsovo 1½hr daily Thessaloniki 4hr 16 6 daily Trikala 35min 1.90 hourly Volos 3hr daily TRAIN Trains depart from the Kalambaka train station (% ). Trains to Thessaloniki and Volos change at Paliofarsalos. Trains from Kalambaka Destination Duration Fare Frequency Athens (Intercity/ 4½hr/ 20.30/ 3/ normal) 5½hr daily Thessaloniki 3/4hr 16.80/ daily (express/normal) Volos 1½hr daily Getting Around Buses for Kastraki ( 1.20) leave about every 45 minutes from the Dimarhiou fountain, and two of these (9am and 1.30pm Monday to Friday, and 8.20am and 1.20pm Saturday and Sunday) continue on to Meteroa s Moni Megalou Meteorou ( p266 ). Taxis (opposite the fountain) go to Kastraki ( 3) and all the monasteries (for example, Moni Megalou Meteorou for 6). Some drivers speak English, German or French, and you arrange a taxi tour for about 20 per hour. Bikes and motorcycles ( 6 to 18) can be hired from the Hobby Shop (%/fax ; Patriarhou Dimitriou 28), opposite Rex Hotel. KASTRAKI ΚΑΣΤΡAΚΙ pop 1203 The village of Kastraki is about 2km from Kalambaka. Its impressive location right under the rocks gives it an otherworldly feel. If you want a base for exploring the Meteora monasteries, or for climbing the rocks themselves, Kastraki is a good choice. An excellent map (available at the newsstand in Kalambaka) is the Panoramic Map with Geology Meteora ( 6.50). A detailed booklet and map in English, The Footpaths of Meteora by Andonis Kalogirou (Kritiki Publishers), is available from the same shop ( 12). Kastraki has its own internet shop, All Time Café (% ; per hr 3; h9am-2am), on the main road opposite Taverna Paradisos. Sleeping Vrachos Camping (% ; meteora.gr; camp sites per adult/tent 6/2; s) Located on the Kalambaka Kastraki road, this outstanding and well-shaded camping ground features spotless toilet and shower blocks, a small market, a taverna, and a barbecue for self-caterers. Rooms Ziogas Vasiliki (%/fax ; s/d/tr 25/40/50; pa) These sparkling and spacious domatia, especially those facing the rocks, are great value, and a homemade lunch or dinner is available upon request from the family owners. Hotel Tsikeli (% ; fax ; s/d/tr incl breakfast 30/50/60; pa) Two hundred metres past All Time Café, this welcoming 15- room lodging features simple wood-furnished rooms, along with a pleasant front garden, and even a few nonsmoking rooms. odoupiani House (% ; doupi ani-house@kmp.forthnet.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast 40/50/60; pai) Incomparably set just outside the village, 500m from the town square. The spotless and balconied rooms are tastefully furnished, and breakfast is served on a garden terrace overlooking the village and rocks. Hotel Meteora Kastraki (% ; s/d/ste incl breakfast from 80/110/180; pais) Kastraki s newest upscale hotel offers a swank lobby bar, very handsome rooms and outstanding views of the rocks, but expect tour groups. Other good options along the Kalambaka Kastraki road: Boufidis Camping (%/fax ; camp sites per adult/tent 4.50/3; s) More basic than Vrachos Camping, but location and pool bar redeem it. Some domatia available. Hotel Kastraki (% ; fax ; s/d 40/50) Good value, but often full with package groups. Sydney Hotel (% ; fax ; s/d/tr incl breakfast 40/45/55; pai) Friendly digs, but choose the rooms away from the road. Eating There is no shortage of good tavernas to be found in Kastraki. otaverna Paradisos (% ; mains ) Look for outstanding traditional meals at the roomy Paradisos, along with spectacular views of the Meteora from the large terrace. Grilled lamb and mousakas are among the kitchen favourites, along with tasty mezedhes and a choice of good Greek wines. The restaurant was the recent recipient of a Greek cuisine award, noting its fresh and traditional ingredients. Taverna Meteora Vavitsos (% ; mains ) Just opposite Hotel Kastraki, this popular local taverna is set back in a shaded terrace, and features excellent lamb grills, souvlakia and pasta dishes, always in hearty portions. Taverna Gardenia (% ; Kastraki; mains 4-8) Gardenia gets good marks locally for tasty taverna standards, such as lamb grills and stuffed tomatoes and peppers. Look for CENTRAL GREECE

142 Lonely Planet Publications 270 THESSALY Kastraki the patio shaded by two plane trees, just 20m south of the big church on the square. Taverna Bakaliarakia (% ) Sitting on a terrace below the church, this popular eatery is known for its fried cod with garlic, and its mild retsina and excellent local tsipouro. Entertainment ABG Café-Bar (% ) Kastraki s only nightspot (and a mellow one at that) is just past the turn-off to the Meteora. This combination jazz bar and gelateria has dark red terrace walls, a welcome sight in low-key Kastraki. CENTRAL GREECE Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content.

143 Northern Greece Βόρεια Ελλάδα Lonely Planet Publications 271 With its astonishing wealth of natural attractions, and a unique blend of histories and cultures, Northern Greece is arguably the country s most fascinating region, yet one that remains relatively undiscovered. Its major metropolis, Thessaloniki, offers outstanding eateries, nightlife and shopping, while towns like Xanthi and Komotini in Thrace, Kastoria and Edessa in Macedonia, and Ioannina and Metsovo in Epiros offer an enthralling mix of traditional architecture, historical sites and welcoming locals. The waters of Northern Greece are equally enticing, ranging from Halkidiki s hidden Aegean beaches to the tranquil Prespa Lakes and Evros Delta marshes, all home to rare bird populations. Other waterways, such as the Nestorio River in western Macedonia and the Ardas in eastern Thrace, host rockin summer festivals. The stylish Mediterranean resort of Parga, on the aquamarine Ionian Sea, has great sandy beaches and nightlife. Although a location of very ancient civilisations, Northern Greece is one of the modern country s younger parts. It was up for grabs during the turbulent decades leading to the Balkan Wars ( ) and through WWI, as regional entities and outside powers vied for control. This mixed legacy can be experienced in ways culinary and cultural alike. Indeed, getting off the beaten track in Greece s Balkan north brings many unexpected rewards for the curious traveller. HIGHLIGHTS Night Fever Savouring the cafés and bars of sophisticated Thessaloniki ( p284 ) in Macedonia Step Back in Time Visiting the last outpost of Byzantium, the monasteries of Mt Athos ( p291 ) in Macedonia Chill-out Spot Exploring traditional Pomak villages (p314) in Thrace s tranquil Rhodopi Mountains National Treasures Discovering the perfectly preserved stone-and-slate villages of Zagorohoria (p332) Close Up Bird-watching on the Turkish border at the Evros Delta ( p319 ) in Thrace Magic Moment Experiencing dusk on the serene Prespa Lakes ( p305 ) in western Macedonia Sweet Surrender Sampling the Ottomanstyle sweets of Komotini ( p315 ) in Thrace Summer Nights Luxuriating amid the golden beaches and island-style nightlife on the Epiros coast at Parga ( p341 ) Prespa Lakes Zagorohoria Parga Pomak villages Thessaloniki Mt Athos Komotini Evros Delta NORTHERN GREECE POPULATION: 3.12 MILLION AREA : 19,117 SQ KM

144 272 MACEDONIA Thessaloniki MACEDONIA 273 NORTHERN GREECE MACEDONIA ΜΑΚΕΔΟΝΙΑ pop 2.4 million / area 33,785 sq km The biggest and most diverse region in Greece, Macedonia (mah-keh-do-nee-ah) also boasts the country s second city, stylish Thessaloniki. It s a place with both natural beauty and a deep history, and the two are often intertwined. Mt Olympus, Greece s highest peak (2918m), is both the fabled refuge of the ancient Greek gods and an excellent hiking destination, while the isolated monasteries of Mt Athos, deep amid wilderness on the third finger of the Halkidiki Peninsula, have constituted the beating heart of Byzantine spirituality for over a millennium. Despite being on the mainland, Macedonia also draws big crowds in summer to its beaches on Halkidiki s first two fingers (Kassandra and Sithonia), though you can still find some idyllic, unvisited stretches of sand there too. Beyond Florina, far up in the northwest of Macedonia, brown bears amble through forested mountains that descend to placid Prespes, aquaeous home to colourful pelicans and magnificent medieval churches. Other inimitable attractions are the palmlined port town of Kavala, crowned by a castle; the ancient Macedonian capital of Pella; and Vergina, where the Macedonian kings were buried. History Macedonia s human history goes back at least 700,000 years; however, most often it s associated with the 4th-century-BC empire of Alexander the Great, which stretched, briefly, from the Adriatic Sea to India. Deemed barbarians by cultivated Athenians, the Macedonians subjugated Greece under Alexander s father, Philip II, yet adopted Greek mores. Alexander and his generals spread the Greek culture and language widely, creating a Hellenistic society that would be absorbed by the Romans and later, after the empire split into eastern and western halves in the 4th century AD, emerge as the Greek-speaking Byzantine Empire. Although the major ancient Macedonian cities declined, Thessaloniki became Byzantium s second city, a vital commercial, cultural and strategic centre on the crossroads of Balkan trade routes. However, 6th- and 7th-century-AD Slavic migrations brought new populations to Macedonia and challenges for the empire, which was frequently at war with the medieval Bulgarian kingdom from the 9th century to the 11th century. In 1018, Emperor Basil II finally defeated Bulgar Tsar Samuel, who had ruled much of the southern Balkans from his capital on western Macedonia s Mikri Prespa Lake. Macedonia, along with most of the Balkans, was overrun by the Ottoman Turks in the 14th century. The Ottoman system distinguished its subjects by religion, not race, something that exacerbated the confusion of the late 19th century, when a bewildering array of guerrilla movements arose to fight the Turks, pledging to annex Macedonia for Greece, Bulgaria or even an independent state of its own. Ottoman atrocities against Macedonia s Christian populations caused the European Great Powers to enforce a reform programme on the Turks (from 1902 to 1908), but it failed to stop the bloodshed. In the Balkan Wars, Greece, Bulgaria and Serbia united to drive the Turks from Macedonia, which was then split between Greece and Serbia, with a small piece for Bulgaria and a sliver to the new state of Albania. In the Greek-Turkish population exchanges of 1923, many Anatolian Greek refugees were resettled in Macedonia, where a vigorous programme for assimilating non-greeks was getting under way. In WWII, Greece was occupied by the Nazis, who deported and killed most of Macedonia s very significant Sephardic Jewish population. THESSALONIKI ΘΕΣΣΑΛΟΝΙΚΗ pop 363,987 If you re going to splurge anywhere in Northern Greece, Thessaloniki (thess-ah-lo-nee-kih) is the place to do it. Greece s second city, and its cultural capital, Thessaloniki (also called Salonica) lets you indulge in fine food, sinful sweets, ultra-chic shopping, an energetic nightlife and more concerts, parties, art shows and events than you can keep track of. What really enhances Thessaloniki s hip atmosphere, however, are the enduring symbols of its glorious history, from the White Tower on its café-lined waterfront all the way up to the Byzantine walls, just above the Upper Town (Ano Poli), an enchanting neighbourhood of pretty traditional houses set on 0 50 km MACEDONIA 0 30 miles Ardas To Plovdiv (75km) B U L G A R I A To Sofia (150km) To Skopje (90km); Belgrade (500km) To Skopje (105km) Smoljan FORMER YUGOSLAV REPUBLIC OF MACEDONIA Strumica Exohi Mt Vrondous (1888m) Komiatos E75 Nestos Prilep Kato Nevrokopi Promahonas Laïlias Mt Kerkini (2031m) Rhodope Mt Koula (1827m) E79 Mountain Range Mt Falakro (2111m) To Tirana (100km) THRACE Sidirokastro Lake Doïrani Drama Gevgelija Xanthi Ohrid Serres Lake Kerkini Lake Vistonida Mt Symvolon Evzoni Bitola Kilkis Paleokastro Lagos Hrysoupoli Kavala Philippi Strimonas E79 Aridea Mt Voras (Kaïmaktsalan) (2151m) E65 To Alexandroupoli (102km) Nigrita Gulf of Kavala Strimonic Gulf Veria Nestorio Niki See Prespa Lakes Map (p305) Via Egnatia Axios Agios Germanos Keramoti Limenas Langadas Giannitsa E86 Arnissa Pella Pisoderi Pass Edessa Lake Petron Florina See Thrace Map (p311) Skala Prinou E90 Halkidona Lake Vegoritida THESSALONIKI Amynteo Vigla Mt Vernon (1759m) Thasos Stavros Hortiatis Pyrgos Alexandria Naousa Aetos Nymfeo Mt Vitsi (2128m) Krystallopigi Lake Volvi E90 Lake Koronia Korce ALBANIA Stratoni Kastoria (90km) To Samothraki Gulf of Thessaloniki T H R A C I A N Karyes S E A Dafni Gulf of Agion Oros Ormos Panagias Panorama Mt Hortiatis Arnea Agia Triada Epanomi Krini Petralona Polygyros Cave Vrastama Eleohoria HALKIDIKI Panagia Ancient Olynthos Gerakini Nea Moudania Metamorfosi Vermio Ptolemaïda Lake Himaditis Vergina Lake Orestiada See Athos Peninsula Map (p291) E75 E90 Aliakmonas Mt Grammos (2520m) Athos Peninsula Ouranoupolis Ierissos Mt Athos (2033m) Nikiti Gulf of Kassandra Vourvourou Sarti Neos Marmaras Paradisos Velvendos Katerini Servia Ancient Dion Mt Olympus (2918m) Skala Sykia Haniotis Kryopigi Kallithea Afytos Litohoro Leptokarya Sykia Pefkohori Toroni Kassandria Siviri To Limnos (120km); Agios Efstratios (185km); Lesvos (350km) Kalamitsi Porto Nea Skioni Posidi Thermaic Gulf Koufos Paliouri Agia Paraskevi A E G E A N S E A To Limnos (180km); (360km) Elassona Tyrnavos Larisa E65 See Epiros Map (p324) Neapoli Eptahori Kozani E90 Siatista Pendalofos Lake Aliakmonas Grevena Mt Vasilitsa (2249m) EPIROS Deskati Metsovo Meteora Kalambaka Ioannina E92 THESSALY Lesvos Mt Smolikas (2637m) Sithonian Peninsula See Mt Olympus Map (p299) Mt Gamila (2497m) Cape Drepano Via Egnatia Cape Paliouri Kassandra Peninsula E65 E75 To the Sporades (200km); Cyclades (520km); Crete (740km) NORTHERN GREECE

145 274 MACEDONIA Thessaloniki MACEDONIA Thessaloniki 275 NORTHERN GREECE winding, peaceful alleyways. Down from them are impressive constructions like the 4th-century Church of Agios Dimitrios (said to be the largest in Greece), the enormous Roman Rotunda, and the sculpted Arch of Galerius in Kamara, thronged with students from Thessaloniki s universities. Indeed, Thessaloniki s multitude of young people gives it a vivacious, stylish mood, which can be felt in its cafés, restaurants and bars, even in its shops and designer hair salons. Still livable and relatively small, Thessaloniki has none of Athens opprobrious traffic or smog. True, it s no budget destination, but Thessaloniki is packed with life and should be on every traveller s itinerary. History Thessaloniki was named in honour of a woman who herself had been named to commemorate a military victory, that of her father, Philip II, over a tribe in Thessaly with the help of crack Thessalian horsemen. This royal daughter grew up to marry the Macedonian general Kassandros, and after he named the city for her in 316 BC, Thessaloniki s name would forever be on the lips of all who would ever experience the city. In 168 BC, the Romans conquered Macedon, making it a subordinate province with its capital in Thessaloniki. The city s ideal location on the Thermaic Gulf and the east west Via Egnatia, plus its proximity to the Axios/Vardar River valley corridor leading north into the Balkans, all helped turn it into a leading commercial centre. Under Emperor Galerius in the early 4th century AD, Thessaloniki became the eastern imperial capital, and with the empire s division later that century, it became Byzantium s second city, a flourishing Constantinople in miniature. However, Thessaloniki s attractiveness led to frequent attacks by Goths, Slavs, Saracens and Latin Crusaders. Nevertheless, the city flourished culturally and contributed greatly to the creation of Southeastern Europe with the missionary work of the 9th-century Thessaloniki monks Cyril and Methodius ( creators of the Glagolitic, precursor to the Cyrillic alphabet), who expanded Orthodox Byzantine literary culture among the Slavs of the Balkans. In 1430, Thessaloniki was captured by the Ottomans, under whom it remained a major city. In the late 15th and early 16th centuries, Sephardic Jewish exiles fleeing the Spanish Inquisition transformed Thessaloniki, which would become one of the most important Jewish cities in Europe. Although much of Greece was liberated after the 1821 War of Independence, Thessaloniki and Macedonia remained Ottoman. Both before and after the period Greeks call the Macedonian Struggle ( ), Thessaloniki was the base for mutually antagonistic rebel groups and reform movements, including the Young Turks, which sought to introduce Western-style reforms to save the dwindling Ottoman Empire. One notable Young Turk and Thessaloniki native, Mustafa Kemal, would later become the founder of modern Turkey, and be deemed Atatürk (Father of the Turks). The world wars were darkly decisive for Thessaloniki. A great fire in August 1917 burned down most of the city. The population exchanges of 1923 with Turkey were followed by a smaller one with Bulgaria in Then most of Thessaloniki s Jewish population was deported when the city (and the rest of Greece) was occupied by the Nazis. The character and complexity of the city changed almost overnight, the result today being a mostly Greek city built according to the avenue scheme of a French architect in Finally, in 1977, a destructive earthquake damaged many buildings. Thessaloniki s next major innovation, the long-promised metro, is currently being dug along Egnatia. Peering into the trenches there beside the sidewalk reveals much older layers of Thessaloniki just beneath the surface. Orientation Central Thessaloniki is bounded on the south by the sea and on the north by a sloping hill, site of the old Upper Town (Ano Poli), and above it the Byzantine Walls. The café-lined waterfront avenue, Leoforos Nikis, runs west from the port to the White Tower (Lefkos Pyrgos) in the east. Going from the water and Leoforos Nikis north (uphill), other principal streets also run parallel to the sea: first Mitropoleos, Tsimiski and, above them, main thoroughfare Egnatia; north of this, other major east west streets are Filippou and Agiou Dimitriou. Thessaloniki s main squares include Eleftherias, near the port, and the grand Aristotelous, a popular meeting point that runs between Egnatia and Leoforos Nikis. Squares further east include Agias Sofias and Navarinou, just south of Egnatia. The most common meeting point for locals is Kamara, the area around the Arch of Galerius on the northern side of Egnatia opposite Navarinou. Just east of Kamara, Egnatia intersects with Ethnikis Amynas; to the northeast of this intersection is the large Aristotle University, to the southeast, the HelExpo trade fair. After it crosses these facilities, Egnatia continues eastwards as Nea Egnatia. Taking Egnatia back westwards past Kamara and Aristotelous brings you to the cheap shopping/hotel district around Dimokratias. After this, Egnatia becomes Monastiriou and shortly passes the train station to the right, and continues towards the main bus station (3km further west). Information BOOKSHOPS Bustart (% ; Gr Palama 21) Trendy new shop for art, design, photography and fashion books. Travel Bookstore Traveller (% ; Proxenou Koromila 41) This cosy shop outfits travellers with Road Editions maps and Lonely Planet guides. EMERGENCY Farmakeio Sofia Tympanidou (% ; Egnatia 17) Empathetic Kyria Sofia has long run this well-stocked pharmacy, and can often get hard-to-find medicines quickly. First-Aid Centre (% ; Navarhou Koundourioti 10) Near the port. Ippokration (% ; Papanastasiou 50) Largest public hospital; 2km east of the centre. Port police (% ) Tourist police (% ; 5th fl, Dodekanisou 4; h7.30am-11pm) INTERNET ACCESS The Web (% ; S Gonata 4, Navarino; per hr 2.40; h24hr) Big, well-equipped café with fast internet and helpful staff. LAUNDRY Bianca Laundrette (Panagias Dexias 3; per 6kg load 7;h8am-8.30pm Tue, Thu & Fri, 8am-3pm Mon, Wed & Sat) In just two hours your clothes are washed, dried and folded at this no-nonsense laundromat powered by classic rock. MONEY Banks and/or ATMs are plentiful, especially along Egnatia and Tsimiski, and at the port area and Plateies Navarino and Aristotelous. Commission-hungry private exchange bureaus are on western Egnatia. The train station, bus station and ferry passenger terminals contain ATMs. National Bank of Greece (Tsimiski 11) PERMITS Mt Athos Pilgrims Bureau (% ; fax ; pilgrimsbureau@c-lab.gr; Egnatia 109; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri, 10am-noon Sat) Permits for the monastic community of Mt Athos are issued here. POST Post office Aristotelous (Aristotelous 26; h7.30am- 8pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-2.15pm Sat, 9am-1.30pm Sun); Koundouriotou (Koundouriotou 6; h7.30am-2pm) Next to the port. TOURIST INFORMATION Tourist information office (% ; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat) In the port s passenger terminal. Details latest exhibitions and cultural events. Sights WHITE TOWER The history of Thessaloniki s most famous landmark, the pacific White Tower (% ; Lefkos Pyrgos; adult 2; h8am-7pm Tue-Sun, pm Mon), is actually bathed in blood. In 1826, Ottoman Sultan Mahmud II ordered here the massacre of janissaries (elite troops made up of forcibly Islamicised Christian boys) deemed disloyal. After Greeks captured the city in 1913, the bloody tower was whitewashed to expunge the dark memories. The whitewash has long been removed, though the name stuck. At time of writing, the tower s small Byzantine Museum was about to get a new permanent exhibit; it s up a wide circular stairway, where stands a small café offering impressive views of the city and sea. PALACE, ARCH & MAUSOLEUM (ROTUNDA) OF GALERIUS Very close to one another, from Navarinou north across Egnatia, stand three major monuments associated with the early-4thcentury Roman emperor Galerius. The ruined Palace of Galerius ( Navarinou; admission free; NORTHERN GREECE

146 276 MACEDONIA Thessaloniki MACEDONIA Thessaloniki 277 THESSALONIKI m miles NORTHERN GREECE To Main Bus Station (3km) 83 Anagenniseos Findou Andreou Georgiou To Pyli Axiou (500m); Lido (1km) Larisa (150km); Athens (510km) Monastiriou Esopou Santaroza Damonos Kazantzaki Margaropoulou Dimitriou 45 Sapfous Navarhou Koundourioti INFORMATION Bianca Laundrette... 1 F4 Bustart... 2 E4 Farmakeio Sofia Tympanidou... 3 C2 First-Aid Centre... 4 C6 National Bank of Greece... 5 D5 Pilgrims' Bureau... 6 F4 Post Office... 7 C6 Post Office... 8 E3 Remember Travel...(see 94) The Web... 9 F5 Tourist Information Office B4 Tourist Police C2 Travel Bookstore Traveller E5 Turkish Consulate G3 UK Consulate F4 US Consulate D4 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Arch of Galerius F4 Archaeological Museum G6 Ataturk's House G3 Bey Hamam E3 Church of Agia Sofia E4 Church of Agios Dimitrios E2 Church of Nikolaos Orfanos.. 22 G3 Church of Osios David F1 Church of Panagia Ahiropiitos.. 24 E3 Church of the Dodeka Apostoloi C1 Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki D5 Modiano Market D3 Monastery of Vlatadon G1 Museum of Ancient Greek & Byzantine Instruments C5 Museum of Byzantine Culture G6 Museum of the Macedonian Struggle D4 Palace of Galerius F4 Roman Agora E3 Rotunda F4 Thessaloniki Museum of Photography C4 White Tower E6 Yeni Hamam E2 Promitheos Vahou 26 Oktovriou Polytehniou To Parakath (3km); Bulgaria (113km); Kavala (160km); Turkey (371km) Frangon Port 89 Gulf of Thessaloniki Port Axiou Doxis Langada Fokeas Dimokratias (Vardari) Dodekanisou Ladadika 51 Tandalidou See Enlargement Pindou Navarhou Koundourioti Morihovou 7 87 Loudia 4 Svoronou 43 Leontos Sofou Morihovou 61 Karaoli & Dimitriou Ptolemaion 3 Vassiliou Egyptou Opopliou 38 Ladadika m miles Irakliou Ionos Dragoumi Katouni Olympou Polytehniou 29 Eleftherias Ifestionos Antigonidon Valaoritou Paiko Tsimiski 5 Ionos Dragoumi Mitropoleos Leof Nikis Agiou Dimitriou Egnatia El Venizelou 41 Aristotelous El Venizelou 81 Agiou Mina 44 Syngrou Ermou Leof Nikis Kassandrou Filippou Vlali Tsimiski Halkeon Aristotelous Komninon Olymbiados 8 Karolou Dil Koromila Kastritsiou Mitropoleos Agias Sofias Smyrnis Amynda Agnostou Stratioti Dimitriou Poliorkitou 2 37 Olympou Egnatia 77 Lefkos Pyrgos Navarinou Alex Svolou Paleon Patron Germanou Pavlou Mela Agiou Nikolaou Tsirogianni Iasonidou Sofokleous Agias Sofias 9 6 Nikoforou Foka 56 Leof Megalou Alexandrou 66 Nikolaou Germanou Klious 23 Ano Poli (Kastra) Kassandrou Dragoumi Arrianou Agiou Georgiou 34 D Gounari Theotokopoulou Armenopoulou Kamara 14 To Airport (1.5km); Halkidiki (45km) 85 Despere Eptapyrgio Agathangelou Angelaki Moreas Aristotle University Campus HelExpo Trade Fair Tritis Septemvriou Apostolou Pavlou Ethnikis Amynis To Rihardos (1km); Halkidiki Bus Terminal (2.5km); Ippokration (2km) To ELPA (2km); Beer Academy (2km); Kalamaria (2km); Miami (2.5km) Euro Rent SLEEPING Capsis Bristol C6 City Hotel D6 Egnatia Palace Hotel E3 Electra Palace Hotel D4 Gioiello E5 Hotel Acropol C2 Hotel Pella D2 Hotel Rex B1 Le Palace Hotel D5 Tourist Hotel D6 Irodotou Akropoleos EATING Agapitos F4 Dore Zythos F5 Hatzis F4 Kitchen Bar C4 Kokkinos Fournos F3 Krikelas B5 Molyvos D3 Molyvos Ethnik D3 Myrsini F6 Ouzou Melathron D3 Panellinion B5 To Etsi F5 Trigones Elenidis F5 Zythos C5 Elenis Zografou DRINKING Art House E5 Draft B5 Elvis D4 Emigré F5 Extra Blatt F5 Flip Side D4 Flou F5 Gioiello...(see 42) I Prinkipos F3 Kafe Nikis D5 Loxias E5 Malt & Jazz D4 Sante D3 Thermaïkos D4 Verdi F5 ENTERTAINMENT Aristotelion F6 Cinema Pallas E5 National Theatre of Northern Greece F6 Olympion D4 Alpha Odeon...(see 80) SHOPPING Shopping Complex D4 TRANSPORT Aegean Airlines D6 Airport Bus Terminal A1 Alvavel A1 Athens Bus Station A1 Budget Rent a Car F5 Ferries to Lesvos, the Sporades, Cyclades & Crete C4 Karaharisis Travel & Shipping Agency C6 Local Bus Station E3 Makedonia Passenger Terminal (Ferries & Hydrofoil) B3 Olympic Airlines B5 OSE D3 Polaris Travel Services C6 Polaris Travel Services E3 Remember Travel F4 Egnatia NORTHERN GREECE

147 278 MACEDONIA Thessaloniki MACEDONIA Thessaloniki 279 NORTHERN GREECE THE WILD EAST If Pavlos Melas, or any of Greece s other celebrated revolutionaries of the Macedonian Struggle were alive today, they would have a very hard time recognising the region. Similarly, visitors today can hardly imagine what it looked like then, at one of the most important moments in modern Greek history. In the very early 20th century, Macedonia was Europe s Wild East, a vast Ottoman possession caught up in the sound and fury of rebellions and horrific Turkish reprisals. The seed of discord between regional rivals and, ultimately, the European Great Powers, Macedonia s mountains were filled with bandits, malaria and priests transforming the nationless, Ottoman-ruled Christians into deadly efficient weapons of nationalism. Turn-of-the-century Thessaloniki, then mostly populated by Sephardic Jews, Slavs and Turks, was a conspiratorial city of secret societies, terrorist bombings and spies, all representative of a bewildering array of mutually antagonistic liberation and reform movements. The Greek attempt to put retrospective order on this unruly situation is Thessaloniki s Museum of the Macedonian Struggle (% ; Proxenou Koromila 23; admission free; h9am-2pm Tue-Fri, 10am-noon Sat). It s heavy on firepower, with old weapons on display and rather camp life-sized cut-out images of Cretan fighters, the so-called Makedonomahi (Macedonia-fighters). Perhaps most interesting, however, are the huge wall maps, which enhance the narrative of key events dictated on a useful English-language sheet (ask the caretaker for one). To understand just how different Ottoman and early Greek Thessaloniki was from the city you will encounter today, read the acclaimed historian Mark Mazower s Salonica, City of Ghosts: Christians, Muslims and Jews, (HarperCollins, 2004). h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) sprawls east west across the square. You can descend into it, or just peer over the handrail. Pieces of floor mosaic, columns and a few walls survive. Across Egnatia is the Arch of Galerius, featuring sculpted soldiers in combat; it was erected in 303 AD to celebrate the emperor s victories over the Persians in 297. Just north of the arch is the unmistakable Rotunda (% ; Agiou Georgiou; admission free; h8am-5pm Tue-Sun). Galerius built this hulking brick structure as his future mausoleum, though he never used it, dying in retirement in what is now Serbia instead. Constantine the Great made the Rotunda Thessaloniki s first church (Agiou Giorgiou); the Ottomans would transform it into a mosque (the minaret s been mostly restored). There are surviving frescoes inside the enormous building. ROMAN AGORA The Roman Agora ( Dikastirion; admission free; h8am-3pm Tue-Sun) lies north of Aristotelous, across Egnatia on upper Dikastirion. Commercial activity began in the 3rd century BC and peaked under the Romans, when the area was buzzing with public affairs, services and shops. A helpful, English-language board explains the layout of the remains, which include clustered shop walls and a few mosaic floor remnants. BYZANTINE CHURCHES Thessaloniki s enormous, 5th-century Church of Agios Dimitrios (% ; Agiou Dimitriou 97; admission free; h8am-10pm, crypt 8am-7. 30pm Tue-Sun, pm Mon, 9-11pm Fri), is named in honour of the city s patron saint. A Roman soldier, Dimitrios was killed around 303 on the site (then a Roman bath), on the command of Galerius, infamous for persecuting Christians. The martyrdom site is now an eerie underground crypt, which you can visit during the day or during the special Friday-night service (see boxed text, p282 ). In 1980, the saint s relics were returned from Italy, and now lie in an elaborate silver reliquary inside. The Ottomans made Agios Dimitrios a mosque and plastered the walls. After they were kicked out, the plaster was removed, revealing Thessaloniki s finest church mosaics. While the 1917 fire was very damaging, five 8th-century mosaics have survived; look for them on either side of the altar. The 8th-century Church of Agia Sofia (h8.30am- 1pm & pm), a not-so-small miniature of its namesake in İstanbul, occupies Agias Sofias south of Egnatia. The dome has a striking mosaic of the Ascension of Christ. Also see the restored, 5th-century Church of the Panagia Ahiropiitos, which has an early basilica form; some mosaics and frescoes remain. The name, meaning made without hands, refers to the miraculous 12th-century appearance of an icon of the Virgin. Up near the walls, the Monastery of Vlatadon (cnr Eptapyrgiou & Agathangelou; h7-11am & pm) has a leafy, secluded location and a small museum (h10am-noon Sun). A gift shop selling icons is inside. Just down from Vlatadon is the little 5th-century Church of Osios David (h9am-noon & 5-7pm), allegedly built to commemorate the secret baptism of Galerius daughter, Theodora, while father was away. It contains well-preserved mosaics and rare 12th-century frescoes depicting the baptism of Christ. Also in the Kastra is the 4th-century Church of Nikolaos Orfanos (% ; Irodotou 20; h9am-noon), which has superb frescoes. MUSEUMS The Archaeological Museum (% ; Manoli Andronikou 6; admission 4; h8.30am-3pm) has finds from the prehistoric period through to ancient Macedonian and Hellenistic times. The most famous exhibit, the Gold of Macedon, presents precious objects (6th to 2nd century BC) from the royal tombs and other central Macedonian excavation sites. The craftsmanship is phenomenal; delicate filigree wreaths, pins for fastening dresses, and grave masks from Sindos are among the best. The Derveni Crater ( BC), a vast, ornate Hellenistic vase of bronze and tin used initially for mixing wine and water and later as a funerary urn, has intricate relief carvings illustrating the life of Dionysus, with mythical figures, animals, vines and ivy branches. The Derveni Treasure contains a papyrus piece ( BC) likely to be Greece s oldest. The ground-floor exhibit, Pre-Historic Thessaloniki, boasts the Petralona Hoard axes and chisels in an urn, abandoned by the artisan, in the Petralona Cave north of Halkidiki. Other finds include daggers, pottery and tools from mound tombs dating from the Neolithic period to the late Bronze Age. The Museum of Byzantine Culture (% ; Leoforos Stratou 2; admission 4; h8am- 7.30pm Tue-Sun, pm Mon) is a well-presented modern museum that uses ambient lighting and a good running wall text to enliven the 3000 or so artefacts in its permanent collection. They include frescoes, mosaics, embroidery, ceramics, inscriptions and icons from the early Christian period to the Fall of Constantinople (1453) in Macedonia. The Museum of Ancient Greek & Byzantine Instruments (% ; Katouni 12-14; admission 4.40; h9am-3pm & 5-10pm Tue-Sun) is an unusual, three-floor museum that displays instruments from antiquity to the 19th century. Excellent multilingual museum catalogues are available ( 15). The story of how heroic Greek revolutionaries wrested Macedonia from the clutches of both Turks and Bulgars is graphically told at the Museum of the Macedonian Struggle (% ; Proxenou Koromila 23; admission free; h9am- 2pm Tue-Fri, 10am-noon Sat). Housed in the former Greek consulate to the Ottoman Empire, this museum has hard-to-find maps, old firearms, photos, uniforms and more (see boxed text, opposite ). The Thessaloniki Museum of Photography (% ; Warehouse A, Thessaloniki Port;h11am-7pm Tue-Fri, 11am-9pm Sat & Sun), located in a cool former warehouse on the port, displays historical and contemporary Greek photography, plus dynamic temporary exhibitions. The small café overlooks the water. The Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki (% ; Agiou Mina 13; admission free; h11am-2pm Tue- Fri & Sun, 5-8pm Wed & Thu) traces Jewish history in Thessaloniki from 140 BC to the Spanish arrivals in 1492 and until WWII through well-presented displays and photos. The museum houses remains from Thessaloniki s large Jewish cemetery, vandalised in 1942 by the Nazis. KASTRA & THE BYZANTINE WALLS When old Thessaloniki burned in the 1917 fire, the Turkish quarter of Kastra or Ano Poli was all that remained. Entering this living window on the past brings you to timberframed houses painted in soft tones, some having overhanging upper storeys. Small, whitewashed dwellings have bright shutters, perfect for a cat to pass through on his way home. Ambling up and down Kastra s steep, winding lanes, with plenty of steps and tiny rivulets for water to drain, is a great pleasure. There are fine panoptic views of modern Thessaloniki and the Thermaic Gulf from the Byzantine walls above the houses. Kastra s original walls were built by Theodosius ( ), who modelled them on the great walls he built in Constantinople. These NORTHERN GREECE

148 280 MACEDONIA Thessaloniki MACEDONIA Thessaloniki 281 NORTHERN GREECE defensive structures were rebuilt in the 14th century and, in 1821, were strengthened with marble stones from the Jewish cemetery. OTHER SITES Atatürk s House (% ; Apostolou Pavlou 75; admission free; h9am-5pm), located within the Turkish Consulate grounds, is where the dashing Mustafa Kemal was born in The museum honours modern Turkey s founder, and has original furnishings and memorabilia. Yeni Hamam (Aigli; cnr Kassandrou & Agiou Nikolaou) is a grand 17th-century Ottoman structure with great acoustics; it s now used as a sophisticated concert hall. If something s on, it s well worth seeing a show there. Bey Hamam (Egnatia at Dikastirion; admission free; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-3pm Sat-Sun), also known as Paradeisos Baths, is Thessaloniki s oldest Turkish bath, dating from This large and labyrinthine structure is now used for art shows. Walking Tour You can see everything (excluding museums) in one day; if you stop for coffee and lunch along the way, it can all work out nicely. To make it happen, though, you have to start early (around 9am), as many churches close by noon. Sunday, Tuesday and Saturday are the best days to do the tour. Definitely don t go on Monday, when most sites are closed. Bus 23 goes to the kastro (castle), but you re better off taking a time-saving taxi ( 2.80 to 5). From the kastro, first get your bearings at the viewing platform (1), then gaze out over the city you re about to conquer. The platform is at the easternmost end of the walls surrounding the inner citadel or Eptapyrgio. Follow the walls west on the main road (also called Eptapyrgio); after Agathangelou, you ll see the leafy, relaxing Monastery of Vlatadon (2; p279 )on the left. See the church here and, if it s open, the museum. Exit through the back and turn left on Lysia; on the left just past Timotheou is the next church, the 5th-century Church of Osios David (3; p279 ). See the rare 12th-century frescoes depicting the baptism of Christ, and dip into the ancient spring. If you want to wander the labyrinthine Ano Poli, head east along the small streets. The most direct route starts you on Myronos, the street below Osios David that then briefly becomes Tyrtaiou. Then, veering right on Soufliou, cross the major road Akropoleos and Soufliou has become Moreas. Continue down Moreas, turning left at Kordou and right at Irodotou to find the little-visited, 4thcentury Church of Nikolaos Orfanos (4; p279 ), with its exquisite 14th-century frescoes. Now return to Moreas and follow it south, crossing Olymbiados. You then reach Kassandrou. Walk several blocks west along this large street, turning south on Agiou Nikolaou. On the right-hand side of this street you ll see Yeni Hamam (5; left ). This restored 17th-century Turkish bath is a voluminous, atmospheric structure with evening concerts and wine. Just below Aigli is the enormous Church of Agios Dimitrios (6; p278 ), occupying its own square. Make sure you see the saint s relics, the 8th-century mosaics near the altar, and the otherworldly, subterranean crypt, where St Dimitrios was martyred (see boxed text, p282 ). From the church continue south on Agnostou Stratiotou across Olympou, and find the ruins of the Roman Agora (7; p278 ) sprawled out before you. The entry about halfway down on Stratiotou is clearly marked and there s a helpful explanatory board. After checking it out, retrace your steps to Agiou Dimitriou, and proceed east on that street nine blocks until you find, on the left-hand side, Atatürk s House (8; p275 ). Since it s inside the Turkish Consulate, you ll need an identity card or passport to show the guard. The staff lead you through the faithfully restored house where the father of modern Turkey was born. As well as numerous original furnishings and memorabilia, you ll see other Atatürk paraphernalia like suits, white gloves and cane. Sporting! Across from the consulate, and a block further east on Agiou Dimitriou, turn right on D Gounari for the Rotunda (9; p275 ). Take a look inside and and poke around the ruins in back. Continuing downhill you ll find the photogenic Arch of Galerius (10; p275 ) at Kamara. Crossing Egnatia, continue downhill on D Gounari. You ll notice Romain ruins running down the centre of this pedestrian street, culminating at the Palace of Galerius (11; p275 ) on Navarinou. It s worth exploring, though you can also just peer down on it from the edge of the square. Continuing downhill, cross Tsimiski and, at Fanarioton, arc left down Mela Pavlou. This brings you to Thessaloniki s most beloved landmark, the White Tower (12; p275 ). Take in the views upstairs over a drink, and see the small museum. Then continue west along the water to enjoy a seaside stroll. Leave the water by crossing Leoforos Nikis at a small traffic light at Agias Sofias. Either see the Church of Agia Sofia (13; p278 ) by walking straight until Agias Sofias, or proceed west on Tsimiski for some window shopping on Thessaloniki s most fashionconscious street. You ll soon hit Aristotelous, which has many cafés, unique architecture WALK FACTS Start Kastro/Byzantine walls Finish Port Duration Three to four hours WALKING TOUR Port Dimokratias (Vardari) Frangon Polytehniou Ladadika 18 Doxis Salaminos Axiou Dodekanisou Karaoli & Dimitriou 19 Eleftherias Egnatia Vasssiliou Irakliou Egyptou 17 Ionos Dragoumi El Venizelou Pangeou Gulf of Thessaloniki Agiou Dimitriou 14 Aristotelous Kassandrou Ermou Leof Nikis 16 Aristotelous Olymbiados Filippou Halkeon Karolou Dil Proxenou 15 Kastritsiou Tsimiski Mitropoleos Koromila 7 Agnostou Stratiotou 13 Agias Sofias 5 6 Lefkos Pyrgos and, on the south side, the large, lively Aristotelous (14). Continue up Aristotelous on its western side and cross Egnatia to find the atmospheric Bey Hamam (15; opposite ), a restored Turkish bath with many hidden corners, now hosting cool art and photography exhibitions. Then return to Aristotelous and proceed downhill, turning right on Vlali. This will bring you through Modiani Market (16), full of fish on ice, trayloads of olives and cheese, hot-tempered butchers, and Greek grandmas arguing with vegetables. Continue straight through the market; after it, cross El Venizelou and turn left towards the water on the next street parallel to it, Ion Dragoumi. Carry on down Ion Dragoumi Olympou Ano Poli (Kastra) Iasonidou Paleon Patron Germanou Pavlou Mela Agiou Tsirogianni Nikolaou Alex Svolou Agias Sofias Agiou Georgiou Navarinou Leof Megalou Alexandrou Sofokleous Armenopoulou D Gounari Klious 3 Dragoumi Kamara 10 Nikolaou Germanou Theotokopoulou 9 Despere Angelaki 8 2 Moreas Agiou Dimitriou Ethnikis Amynis 4 Apostolou HelExpo Trade Fair m miles Eptapyrgio Akropoleos Irodotou P avlou Aristotle University Campus Egnatia Kastro Elenis Zografou 1 NORTHERN GREECE

149 282 MACEDONIA Thessaloniki Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at MACEDONIA Thessaloniki 283 NORTHERN GREECE and, at the intersection with Tsimiski, you pass the splendid National Bank of Greece (17) building; after it, turn right onto Mitropoleos, immediately left on Katouni and right again on curving Aigyptou. Here begins the Ladadika district (18), once comprising olive oil warehouses and now home to some appealing, atmospheric restaurants and cafés. From here, continue to the port, where the tour ends. Cross Kountouriotou, and walk through the gate and out onto the port s eastern jetty. Then plomp yourself down on one of the big, soft couches at the cool Kitchen Bar (19; p284 ) for a relaxing drink. Congratulations! CRYPTICAL ENVELOPMENT Festivals & Events Thessaloniki hosts several fairs and festivals at HelExpo during September and October. The major International Trade Fair is followed by a cultural festival, which includes film screenings and musical performances, culminating with the celebration of St Dimitrios Day (26 October). Military parades follow on Ohi Day (28 October). The increasingly prominent Thessaloniki International Film Festival (% ; occurs over 10 days each November. Cinemas in various locations show 150 or so high-quality international films, ranging from experimental and obscure to works of well-known international directors. The Thessaloniki Documentary Festival ( is held in mid-march. The Tourist Information Office (% ; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat) has more info. Sleeping Hotel rates and availability are fluid; Thessaloniki s main convention and festival schedules will help you plan. Autumn festival time is especially busy; hoteliers suggest watching the HelExpo website ( to see when fairs are being held. Being a Christian in late Roman Thessaloniki was extremely dangerous. Galerius ( ) made practising the new religion punishable by death a stark reality that drove worshippers literally underground. One day in about the year 303, a young soldier named Dimitrios was caught preaching in a subterranean portico in the city agora (market). Dragged off to the baths, Dimitrios was speared to death as an example to others. After the Eastern Roman Empire officially adopted Orthodox Christianity under Emperor Constantine the Great, Dimitrios became venerated as Thessaloniki s patron saint. Numerous miracles were credited to him, including sudden appearances to save the city whenever it fell under barbarian siege. Miraculous healing of the sick was especially associated with the crypt where Dimitrios was martyred, which lies beneath the enormous 5th-century church named after him. During the Turkish occupation, however, the crypt was filled in and forgotten, only to be recovered after the Greek capture of Thessaloniki in The devastating fire of 1917 caused extensive damage to both church and crypt, necessitating much conservation work. Open regularly to the public, the stone-and-brick crypt is mazelike and hauntingly lit, and displays archaeological finds from the ancient church. For a truly unearthly and uniquely Thessaloniki experience, descend into this other world of pungent incense and prayer at the special liturgy held here every Friday from 9pm to 11pm. People file in silently in ones and twos, heads down like members of some secret society, and take up places, freeform, in crumbling corners or in the darkness under stone archways that are soon reverberating with the deep intonations of Byzantine chants. Observing a service in the underground crypt, one of the holiest places in Greece, also gives travellers the chance to experience, in some small way, religion as Thessaloniki s first Christians did, at a time when one s faith was constantly being tested by the all-too-real fear of being discovered and killed by the State. When the priest gathers parishioners around the site of the saint s martyrdom and speaks in soft tones of moral edification, this past reality really hits home. The crypt liturgy also allows female travellers who wish they could visit Mt Athos a chance to experience modern Greece s unbroken tradition of ancient Orthodox spirituality first-hand. You don t have to be particularly religious to attend, so long as you dress and act quietly and respectfully (turn off your phone). BUDGET West Egnatia, once host to seedy budget hotels, has seen international chains move in and raise rates, while the area s remaining fleabag joints continue their slide into uncontested, indistinguishable obsolescence. With Thessaloniki increasingly popular, quality budget accommodation has almost become extinct. Hotel Acropol (% ; Tandalidou 4; s/d 22/28) The Acropol s smoke-stained, down-on-its-luck vibe was not enhanced by a recent price hike that further diminishes the appeal of soldiering on in its Spartan confines. Hotel Pella (% ; Ionos Dragoumi 63; s/d 35/50) Decent for budget travellers, the Pella has small but clean rooms near the Ladadika/port district. Hotel Rex (% ; Monastiriou 39; s/d incl breakdfast 45/55; i) Ideal for those with earlymorning trains or buses to catch, this unpretentious hotel near the train station has clean though cramped rooms. MIDRANGE Live a little Thessaloniki s midrange hotels are a big improvement on its budget ones. You ll get discounts in summer. Tourist Hotel (% ; Mitropoleos 21; s/d/tr 55/70/90; a) This classic place (built 1925) has an old-school gated lift and ornate chandeliers. The clean, wellkept rooms have soundproof windows. Le Palace Hotel (% ; Tsimiski 23; s/d 95/104; a) At night gaze down from your little balcony at twinkling Tsimiski roaring by below (there s soundproofing). Le Palace has spacious, modern rooms with all mod cons. Egnatia Palace Hotel (% ; Egnatia 61; s/d/ste 96/109/145; a) This four-star hotel centrally located above Aristotelous offers bright, modern rooms and suites with individual design and furnishings. The wellness facilities include a heated pool, gym, hammam (Turkish bath), sauna and massage room. City Hotel (% ; Komninon 11; s/d 120/135; ai) This sleek, four-star business hotel in Ladadika has very professional service and some subdued elegance in its handsome rooms. Amenities include internet, laundry services and parking. There s a big American-style breakfast. TOP END Electra Palace Hotel (% ; hotels.gr; Aristotelous 9; s/d 160/175; as) Even if you come only to gaze out onto the harbour from the rooftop garden café, it s impossible to miss the appeal of this five-star city landmark that stands splendidly over Aristotelous. The Electra Palace offers spacious rooms and all the amenities, including a mosaic-tiled indoor pool, rooftop outdoor pool and hammam. Capsis Bristol (% ; cnr Oplopiou & Katouni 2; s/d 192/250; a) What was fated to become a stylish and friendly modern hotel was originally built in 1870 as Thessaloniki s post office. The Capsis Bristol s 16 rooms and four suites, decorated with ornate antiques, Persian rugs and artworks, suffuse the hotel with an old-world charm befitting its location in historic Ladadika. odaios (% ; Leoforos Nikis 59; s/d with sea view 196/212; as) With its unsurpassed location on the waterfront, just up from the White Tower, Daios has created a buzz since opening in 2006, immediately becoming a favourite among Greece s upper stratum. A keen sensitivity to light and shadow pervades the whole hotel, which has a contemporary, minimalist design. Suites have enormous, soundproofed windows and wraparound balconies (from some you can t even see the street, only sea). The hotel s waterfront café is equally sophisticated and full of colour. Staff is friendly and professional. The entrance is on the side street, at 2 Smyrnis. Eating You ll find great eating everywhere in Thessaloniki; that said, Ladadika has several great eateries, while there s ambience at night up in the Kastra. The posh eastern suburb of Kalamaria has an array of trendy new supper spots and bars. Note that many restaurants now try to outdo one another on the complimentary dessert front. Crème brûlée, crepes, baklava or delicate chocolate cakes are all liable to wind up unnanounced in front of you so hold off on ordering. To Etsi (% ; Nikoforos Fokas 2; pites 2.30) This bawdily decorated, iconic eatery near the White Tower offers refreshingly light souvlaki (cubes of meat on skewers) and soutzoukakia (meat rissoles) with vegetable dips, in Cypriotstyle pita bread. Look for the neon sign. NORTHERN GREECE

150 284 MACEDONIA Thessaloniki MACEDONIA Thessaloniki 285 NORTHERN GREECE Ouzou Melathron (% ; Karypi 21; mezedhes , mains 5-11) Just from the sight of the scroll-like menu at this very popular sidestreet ouzerie, you know you re in for something special. Occupy yourself with ouzo and mezedhes (appetisers), then dig into heartier fare like lamb in sweet wine sauce. Panellinion (% ; Salaminos 1; mains 6-8) This friendly taverna has traditional Ladadika décor, with its wooden floors and walls lined with olive-oil bottles and tins of produce. Panellinion has great variety, from ouzos and cheeses to delicious seafood mezedhes; only organic vegetables are used. omyrsini (% ; Tsopela 2; mains 6-10) Myrsini serves up hearty portions of authentic Cretan dishes for Thessasloniki s boisterous young hedonists. The food is delicious and healthy, from rusks topped with tomato, Cretan olive oil and soft cheese (dakos) and flavourful wild greens (horta) to roast rabbit, pork and crucially mizithropitakia (flaky filo triangles with sweet mizithra cheese). Décor is simple, with worn wood floors and traditional accoutrements. Violin and bouzouki music from Greece s best island plays on in the background. Dore Zythos (% ; Tsirogianni 7; mains 7-10) Grab a table outside when the weather s warm and watch the White Tower across the way while savouring imaginative Mediterranean cuisine. Sister establishment Zythos (% , Katouni 5, mains 8 to 12) in Ladadika has great architecture and equally fine food. Kitchen Bar (% ; Warehouse B, Thessaloniki Port; mains 7-13) Whether you re just coming for a cool waterside coffee or seeking some inventive international fare, this lofty, sumptuously decorated café-restaurant on the port is fab. The salads and risotto are as bright as the flames in the open kitchen, where the chefs, like the style-conscious clientele, are always on display. Parakath (% ; Konstandinoupoleos 114; mains 8-12; hdinner) Thessaloniki s only Pontian restaurant does rich, traditional pastabased dishes with old Black Sea flair. Frenetic Pontian live music on weekends, when bookings are essential, keeps things loose. Take a taxi to get there. Molyvos (% ; cnr Ionos Dragoumi & Kapodistriou; mains 8-15) This place has a lovely refined setting and elevates Greek cuisine to fine dining; nearby Molyvos Ethnik (% ), located on the corner of Ionos Dragoumi and Papadopoulou is its freewheeling companion eatery, with a smooth interior of high ceilings and polished mirrors, imaginative almost-fusion cuisine (mains 6 to 9) and Latin music. Draft (% ; cnr Lykourgou 3 & Salaminos; mains 9-13) Near to Krikelas, this threelevel brick-and-wood restaurant and pub has a classic feel, with its vintage jukebox, wellshone rails and long bar with many draught beers. It serves designer pub fare like you d expect in some big-city financial district lunch spot. Upstairs, however, cultivates a more after-hours lounge-bar effect, with dimmed lights and ambient Latin and jazz. Krikelas (% ; Salaminos 6; mains 10-18; hmon-sat) The iconic Krikelas offers a superlative, refined dining experience for gastronomes, with dishes ranging from wild game to Cretan snails and other local Greek specialities. The wine list is of course deep. Miami (% ; Thetidos 18, Nea Krini; fish 11-18) This seaside fish taverna east of the centre is preferred by the Greek jet set, but regular folks also confirm it s got some of the best fish in town. Take a taxi. Drinking Thessaloniki s drinking scene is inexhaustible, ranging from vintage old-man kafeneia (coffee houses) to pubs and thumping bars. Many stay open till late code for until no-one s left standing. Note that most of the cafés listed here transform into bars at night, though not necessarily vice versa. Also note that in summer many city-centre nightclubs close and reopen in bigger spaces outdoors, on the airport road. BARS Flou (% ; Nikoforou Foka 9; hmon-sat 9pmlate) What the French call Bobo characterises this cosy bar on a White Tower side street. Exuding neon and a je ne sais quoi eclectic retro décor, Flou gets packed on weekends with an early-thirties crowd and plays a shameless selection of vintage pop. Extra Blatt (% ; Svolou 46) For beer lovers who don t want to truck all the way to Kalamaria, this very central bar/restaurant has an impressive range of European and even American beers. The décor is nothing special, but it s the beer that counts. Art House (% ; Vogatsikou 4; h9pmlate) Go up the old stairs and open the door THE SWEET LIFE Greeks prize few things more than their sweets. The zaharoplasteia (patisseries) of Thessaloniki are particularly famous for their traditional Eastern-flavoured delicacies, sinfully French-style sweets and some truly iconic local creations. While many of the Ottoman-era offerings are now common throughout Greece, Thessaloniki s discerning locals are particularly demanding in their pursuit of the sweet life, as becomes clear at the following well-polished, inviting zaharoplasteia, most of which now have multiple branches throughout the city. Most sweets are sold by the kilo; count on spending 1 to 4 per piece. Kokkinos Fournos (Apostolou Pavlou 1, Rotunda) Just above the Rotunda, this classic bakery does Thessaloniki s best koulouraki vanilias crunchy, slightly sweet golden cookies perfect for dipping in Greek coffee. Hatzis (% ; Egnatia 119) In operation since 1908, when Thessaloniki was still an Ottoman city, this local legend brings the tastes of old Constantinople to you. After Hatzis, you ll never ask for a simple baklava again. The veritable symphony of sweets served at Hatzis includes vezir parmak (politika syrup cake with cream filling), hanoum bourek (handmade pastry with raisins, peanuts and cream) and a dish of malempi mastiha (cream from milk and rice porridge, flavoured with mastiha from Chios and served with rose syrup). Agapitos (% ; Egnatia 134) This posh patisserie is the place to go for a taste of the Continent. Its cakes, fruit concoctions and profiterols (chocolate pudding with a crunchy base and white cream) are all excellent. Try the superlative efrosini chocolate cake, or smudge your fingers on the delicious mini-eclairs. Trigones Elenidis (% ; cnr D Gounari & Tsimiski) A veritable institution since 1960, Elenidis is a very rare thing in today s world: a shop that sells only one product. Its sweet, flaky triangular cones filled with cool and unbelievably tasty cream are legendary; locals come out with two-kilo boxes, but one large triangle will certainly fill you up. to the party at standing-room-only Art House, full of dark curves and Vulcan tints in the arches, mottled walls and worn wood floors. Music is funk and Eurohouse, the clientele mid-twenties. Santé (% ; Kapodistriou 3; h9pmlate) This merry bar is a relaxed, stylish nightspot with Brazilian flair, and invigorating live music, like smokin blues bands, on weekends. Malt & Jazz (% ; Proxenou Koromila) Another live-music haven, Malt & Jazz has mainly jazz, but sometimes world music bands. Call after eight to find out who s on. Elvis (% ; 21 Leoforos Nikis) This DJ bar on the waterfront plays more-interesting music than most of Nikis bars; next door Thermaïkos (23 Leoforos Nikis) is a hipster stand-by that gets full and hypnotic late. Flip Side (% ; Proxenou Koromila 11; hnoon-late) A throwback to the 50s and 60s with lithograph Warhol deco and vintage poster art, Flip Side is a fun, relaxed rock bar near Aristotelous. Beer Academy (% ; Mixalakopoulou 2, Kalamaria) A beer or five in Kalamaria is just what the doctor ordered on an unproductive Thessaloniki afternoon. It takes time, after all, to sample the very substantial offerings at Thessaloniki s trend-setting biraria (beer bar). CAFÉS oloxias (% ; Isavron 7; hnoon- 2am) Thessaloniki s first bookstore-ouzerie, Loxias is that great rarity, a café with culture. Educated Greeks started gravitating years ago to this whimsical steki (hang-out) to discuss philosophy or literature over ouzo and snacks. Loxias is decorated with wine casks, bursting bookshelves in the basement shop, and photos of Greek writers, Montenegrin princesses and the dervishes of old Hania. Charismatic owner Ioannis Kyprianidis has revived the old Thessaloniki tradition of the bookshop as a place for ideas assisted by Greek firewater and good European beers, of course. Romantics can duck the commotion out on the back balcony s table for two, which overlooks Roman ruins. Verdi (% ; cnr Svolou & Angelaki) The last on Svolou s café row, Verdi has a spiffy wood-trim interior, cosy tables and a vaguely French attraction. NORTHERN GREECE

151 286 MACEDONIA Thessaloniki MACEDONIA Thessaloniki 287 NORTHERN GREECE Émigré (% ; Svolou 54) Next to Verdi, popular Émigré serves good espressos accompanied by crumbly cookies. I Prinkipos (Apostolou Pavlou 22) This big coffee house is beside the Turkish Consulate, up on Agiou Dimitriou. It s ideal for a Greek coffee and backgammon. Gioiello (% ; Leoforos Nikis 59) The waterfront café of the Daios Hotel, Gioiello is a relaxing spot for a coffee or light lunch, with a glittering interior and sharp service. Kafe Nikis 35 (% ; Leoforos Nikis 35) Another waterfront bar, but much more stylish than the generic ones around it, this snug, friendly café just under street level is perfect for a Sunday-morning macchiato. Get a window table and feel the dappled sunlight dancing through the blinds. Entertainment Lido (% ; Frixou 5, Sfageia; h9pm-late) Thessaloniki s big, mean disco machine, Lido is an enormous nightclub playing R&B, house and more. Like most nightclubs, in summer it operates out on the airport road. National Theatre of Northern Greece (% ; Ethnikis Amynis 2) This theatre presents classical Greek drama and more-modern theatrical works. Pyli Axiou (% ; cnr Andreou Georgiou & Ermionis; h11pm-late) For a somewhat baser experience of contemporary Greek culture, give in to the frenetic, bouzouki-driven fun at one of Thessaloniki s most popular bouzoukia. Also check out the following cinemas: Aristotelion (% ; Ethnikis Amynis 2) Cinema Pallas (% ; Leoforos Nikis 73) Olympion (% ; Aristotelous) Alpha Odeon (% ; cnr Tsimiski 43 & Aristotelous) Shopping West Egnatia has bargains, and Tsimiski is the fashion capital. That said, not everything there is inordinately expensive; women s shoes and jewellery are both affordable and good quality. International name-brand shops line Tsimiski, and fill the large shopping complex off it, below the US Consulate. Rihardos (% ; fax ; Konstantinopoleos 27) Who knew there were so many different kinds of bouzouki? Rihardos, one of Greece s biggest purveyors of traditional instruments, has a huge array of Greek instruments, as well as Western brandname guitars and Chinese knock-offs that sound just as sweet for half the price. The friendly old owner, Rihardos, and his Englishspeaking son, Joseph, explain everything about the hundreds of unusual instruments. To get there, take bus 31 from Egnatia east to the Faliro stop (five to 10 minutes). Continue across the intersection with Paraskeopoulos, turn left and Rihardos is facing you. Getting There & Away Thessaloniki is Northern Greece s transport hub and the gateway to the Balkans. Major European airlines and budget airlines fly regularly. Ferries to the Sporades, Cyclades, northeastern Aegean islands and Crete also depart from Thessaloniki. AIR The airport (% ) is 16km southeast. Olympic Airlines (% ; Navarhou Koundourioti 1-3) is near the port, and Aegean Airlines (% ; Venizelou 2) is on Eleftherias. Domestic Olympic Airlines operates over 15 domestic routes. These are the more important ones: Athens ( 45 to 105, 55 minutes, seven daily); Limnos ( 65, 50 minutes, daily); and Mytilini ( 87, one hour 50 minutes, six weekly). It also has two to four flights weekly to Kerkyra ( 75, 55 minutes), Iraklio ( 100, 1½ hours), Mykonos ( 95, one hour), Hania ( 105, 2½ hours), Chios ( 80, 2¾ hours), Skyros ( 58, 40 minutes) and Samos ( 90). Some flights are via intermediate airports. Aegean Airlines has 12 daily flights to Athens ( 66 to 93), and with lesser frequency to Mytilini ( 80), Rhodes ( 110) and Santorini ( 105). Remember Travel (% ; remembertravel@mail.gr; Egnatia 119), just off Kamara, is a central travel agency for plane tickets with good post-sale customer service. International Thessaloniki s Makedonia Airport ( serves numerous destinations across Europe. BUS Domestic Most Thessaloniki buses depart from the giant space pod known as the main bus station (% ; Monastiriou 319), located 3km west of the BUS DEPARTURES FROM THESSALONIKI Destination Duration Fare Frequency Alexandroupoli 6hr daily Athens 7hr daily Edessa 1½hr 7.20 hourly Florina 3½hr daily Ioannina 6hr daily Kastoria 4hr daily Kavala 2-3hr hourly Komotini 4½hr 20 8 daily Ouranopoli 3½hr daily Pella 1hr 2.90 every 45 mins Polygyros 4hr daily Sarti 4hr daily Veria 1¼hr 5.50 hourly Volos 4hr daily Xanthi 4hr 16 8 daily centre. Meant to correct the former chaos of individual stations for individual destinations, the new station has succeeded magnificently in putting all that chaos into one room; there are now different windows selling tickets to specific destinations, meaning the worker at one window cannot sell you a ticket for or give information about anything other than his/her specified destination. There s no general information booth and this enhances the station s unpleasant, stressful nature. Buses for the Halkidiki Peninsula leave from the Halkidiki bus terminal (% ; on Thessaloniki s eastern outskirts. Take bus 2 or 31 to the Botsari stop from either the train station or anywhere along Egnatia; at Botsari, the line terminates and you take bus 36 for the final 10 minutes. With traffic, it s about one hour from the train station to the Halkidiki station. International OSE (% ; Aristotelous 26) runs buses to Sofia ( 19.10, seven hours, two to four times daily). Buses serve İstanbul ( 44, 12 hours, 7.15am Tuesday to Sunday, 2am daily) and Tirana ( 28, twice daily). Get tickets at the small office on the train station s eastern side. For buses to Korça (Korysta) in Albania ( 20, six hours, 9am, 7.30pm and 1.30am), see Alvavel (% ; Giannitson 31) across from the station. FERRY Four weekly ferries serve the Sporadic islands of Skiathos ( 17.70, seven hours) and Skopelos ( 19.90, nine hours); three continue to Alonnisos ( 23.20, 10 hours). Boats serve Chios three times weekly ( 34.20, 19 hours) via Limnos ( 22.10, eight hours, five times weekly) and Lesvos ( 34.40, 14 hours, five times weekly). One boat weekly continues to Samos ( 39.20, 20 hours). The Dodecanese are also served once weekly, to Kalymnos ( 41.90, 21 hours), then Kos ( 43.80, 22 hours) and Rhodes ( 52.40, 26 hours). In summer, two boats weekly serve Iraklio, Crete ( 45.60, 26 hours). Get tickets from port-area travel agencies, like the helpful Polaris Travel Services (% ; fax ; Navarhou Koundourioti 19; h8am- 8.30pm), which also has a second, central office (% ; fax ; polaris@otenet.gr; Egnatia 81; h8am-8.30pm) near Agias Sofias on Egnatia. HYDROFOIL In summer hydrofoils reach the Sporadic islands of Skiathos (3¼ hours), Skopelos (four hours) and Alonnisos (4½ hours). Tickets are Try Karaharisis Travel & Shipping Agency (% ; fax ; Navarhou Koundourioti 8; h8am-8.30pm). TRAIN Much cheaper, often more comfortable and not always slower than the bus, the train can get you anywhere in mainland Greece (except Kastoria, Halkidiki, Kavala and Epiros) and to all neighbouring countries (except Albania). Further, Thessaloniki s train station NORTHERN GREECE

152 288 MACEDONIA Thessaloniki MACEDONIA Halkidiki 289 NORTHERN GREECE (% ; Monastiriou) is closer to the centre than the bus station. Get tickets at the station or from OSE (% ; Aristotelous 18). There are regular trains and intercity (IC or ICE) trains; the latter are substantially more expensive, and slightly faster, than the former. Prices given are for the regular trains. Book in advance for Athens, especially for the cheap train. There are usually long lines at the station, so don t leave it till the last minute to get a ticket. Domestic Five regular trains daily serve Athens ( 15.20, 6¾ hours) via Larisa ( 5, two hours), which has connections to Volos ( 7, 4½ hours). The Athens intercity is much more expensive ( 35.50) but not significantly faster (5½ hours). Some 14 daily trains service Veria ( 2.10, one hour) and Edessa ( 4.50, 1½ hours); of these, five continue on to Amyndeo (for Kastoria bus connections) before terminating at Florina ( 5.30, 2¾ hours), which has bus connections to the Prespa Lakes. Thessaloniki Thrace trains go five times daily to Orestiada ( 12.30, 8½ hours), via Xanthi ( 7, four hours), Komotini ( 8.20, 4½ hours) and Alexandroupoli ( 10, six hours). Thessaloniki s train station has a National Bank of Greece, a post office, a couple of ATMs, cardphones and an OTE (telephone office), kiosks and a restaurant (6am to 10pm). There are automatic luggage machines ( 3 base price) or a check-in storage room ( 3 per item per day), which closes after 10pm. For the latter, present your train ticket when depositing luggage. International A daily old workhorse train leaving Thessaloniki at 8.20am plies the northern route through the ex-yugoslav Republics of Macedonia, Serbia, Croatia and Slovenia, serving their respective capitals of Skopje ( 12, 4½ hours), Belgrade ( 30, 13 hours), Zagreb ( 54, 20 hours) and finally Ljublana ( 58, 24 hours). The evening train at 6.50pm serves Skopje and Belgrade only. These trains stop in every town and village along the way and are frequently late. Note that the departure times of these trains change in winter and summer, so always double-check in advance. Three daily trains connect Thessaloniki with Sofia ( 15.40, six hours) via Kilkis in Greece and Blagoevgrad in Bulgaria. Two leave early (6.16am and 5.47am) and the third at midnight; this midnight train continues to Budapest. Svilengrad and Plovdiv in Bulgarian Thrace are reached via the Thessaloniki Thrace train route, departing Thessaloniki daily at 11:44pm. A weekly, three-day train to Moscow usually runs in summer. Trains to İstanbul ( 48, two daily) follow the Thracian route, passing through Alexandroupoli en route to Pythio, where you change trains before entering Turkey. A direct train, the Filia Dostluk Express, leaves at 8.35pm from Thessaloniki and returns from İstanbul at 8pm. The journey takes 11½ hours. A 2ndclass sleeper car costs 48.20, a 1st-class one Getting Around TO/FROM THE AIRPORT Bus 78 runs every 30 minutes from the airport west to the main bus station via the train station. A taxi from the centre to the airport costs 8 to 10. BUS Orange articulated buses operate within Thessaloniki, and blue-and-orange buses operate both within the city and the suburbs. The local bus station is at Dikastirion on Filippou. Bus 1 connects the bus station and the train station every 10 minutes; bus 31 goes every six minutes through the centre to Voulgari, where you catch bus 36 for the Halkidiki bus station. Bus 78 runs to/from the airport every 30 minutes. To reach major points on Egnatia like Aristotelous, Agias Sofias and Kamara, buses 10 and 14 are fairly frequent and start at the train station. Buy a ticket from a periptero (street kiosk) for 0.50, or from the ticket machine on board ( 0.60). If the former, validate it on board. However, if you will use the bus frequently, buy a 24-hour unlimited usage ticket ( 2). Note the machine will not give change and doesn t accept bills. Have change when getting on the bus, and buy a ticket immediately. Thessaloniki s ticket police combine the finesse of the amateur boxer with the efficiency of the Gestapo, and pounce on any sign of confusion foreigners are especially easy targets. If they nab you, you ll pay 30 on the spot, or you can go with one of these specimens to plead your case to the police. CAR The ELPA (Greek Automobile Club; % ; Vasilissis Olgas 228) is in Kalamaria. Budget Rent a Car (% ; Angelaki 15) and Euro Rent (% ; G Papandreou 5) are two of many rental agencies. There s a large parking lot by the ferry passenger terminal (per hour 1). Parking downtown is tough, but you will eventually succeed. TA X I Thessaloniki s blue-and-white taxis carry multiple passengers, and won t take you if you re not going in the same direction that the other passengers are. Stand in the direction you hope to go, flag one down and yell out your destination good luck! The minimum fare is Drivers, more scrupulous than those in Athens, work for five companies: Alfa-Lefkos Pyrgos (% ; Omirou 12, Sykies) Makedonia (% ; Karyofylli 4) Megas Alexandros (% ) Omega (% ; Terma Giannitson 179) Thessaloniki (% ; Giannitson 140) HALKIDIKI ΧΑΛΚΙΔΙΚΗ With its three fingers stretching into the North Aegean, the Halkidiki Peninsula is the most popular holiday getaway for Northern Greeks. The first finger, Kassandra, has fared worst, filled with unimaginative holiday villas, concrete and trinket shops. The second, Sithonia, has escaped most of the excesses and contains some truly magical beaches. The easternmost promontory largely belongs to the monastic community of Mt Athos (Agion Oros), open only to male pilgrims. In summer, budget accommodation in Halkidiki is nonexistent and getting there from Thessaloniki can be exasperatingly slow. Campers, however, have over 30 highquality camping grounds available. In its best spots, Halkidiki has long, sandy beaches surrounded by aquamarine seas and pine forest and is particularly inviting in September, when the waters are warmest and the crowds have dispersed. Kassandra Peninsula Χερσόνησος Κασσάνδρας The Kassandra Peninsula is what happens when Greek urbanites go on vacation and bring their motorcycles, concrete sidewalks and consumerism with them. It s not an oasis of tranquillity, but if you re after nightlife it s great. Kallithea on the east coast is the centre of the action. Along with fleshed-out discos and bars, it has a long but crowded beach. For reasonable self-catering domatia with airconditioning ( 50), ask at Kallithea Market, next to the stop where the bus from Thessaloniki will leave you. Manita Tours (% ) in the centre does numerous day trips including a tour ( 25) of several superior beaches on the coast of Sithonia Peninsula opposite. Kassandra has good camping grounds, especially at Posidi and Nea Skioni on the quieter western shore. Siviri has a sandy beach, but is overdeveloped. GETTING THERE & AWAY Thirteen buses daily go from Thessaloniki s Halkidiki bus terminal (% ; to Kallithea ( 7.60, 1½ hours) on the east coast; 10 go to Pefkohori ( 10.20, two hours), also on the east coast, via Kryopigi and Haniotis; and seven go to Paliouri ( 11.10, two hours) on the southern tip. Sithonian Peninsula Χερσόνησος Σιθωνίας WEST COAST Escapist Sithonia has better beaches, more spectacular nature and a more relaxed feel than Kassandra. The southern end and eastern coastline have beautiful beaches; outside high summer, they re yours. The coast road loops around Sithonia, skirting wide bays, climbing into pine-forested hills and dipping down to the resorts. The west coast has good stretches of sandy beaches between Nikiti and Paradisos, notably Kalogria and Lagomandra. Beyond, Neos Marmaras is Sithonia s largest resort, with a crowded beach but many domatia. From Neos Marmaras the road climbs into the hills, from which roads (some dirt) descend to more beaches and camping grounds. Development here is scarcer and you can find isolated beaches. Toroni and Porto Koufos, small resorts on Sithonia s southwestern coast, offer relaxing beaches and a cute yacht harbour sheltered NORTHERN GREECE

153 290 MACEDONIA Halkidiki MACEDONIA Halkidiki 291 NORTHERN GREECE in a deep bay, with domatia and fish tavernas. Sithonia s southern tip, still relatively isolated, is rocky, rugged and dramatic. Rounding the road s southeastern tip, spectacular Mt Athos rises across the gulf. Kalamitsi, though it has a gorgeous beach, is suffering from overdevelopment. There s boat rental at North Aegean Diving Centre (% ), which also does dives ( 40) and courses (from 70). Porto Camping (% ; camp sites per adult/tent 3.80/4.50), on Kalamitsi s main beach, and the pricier Camping Kalamitsi (% ; camp sites per adult/tent 6.50/7.20; hmay-sep), around the western headland, are both good bets. The best rooms are O Giorgakis (% ; fax ; studios 75), above the eponymous restaurant opposite the beach. The studios sleep five and are fully equipped. The quieter Souzana Rooms (% ; apt 50) sits in a spacious garden and has good-sized apartments. EAST COAST Sarti, further up the coast, is a quiet resort with some nightlife, rooms and eating options. It has a long, sandy beach and great views of Mt Athos, which can also be seen by boat excursions run by Sarti travel agents. Haus Theodora (% ; apt 50), overlooking Sarti beach s northern end, offers brightly painted modern studios with spacious balconies. Kivotos (% ; mains 5-9) on the central waterfront offers great grilled fish on a table in the sand. Owner Daniel can help with finding rooms. Between Sarti and Panagia the loop roads meet up and things get more interesting. Sithonia s best camping grounds and beaches are here. Rent a scooter to explore; 6km north of Sarti is a turn-off leading to Kavourotrypes (Crab Holes) several small rocky coves great for swimming. Some 13km further north is popular Vourvourou, which has camping grounds and rooms for rent. Although it feels a bit packaged, the spacious Hotel Vergos (% ; s/d/apt incl breakfast 58/63/105;a) offers well-furnished rooms in a relaxed setting with a big lawn for kids. A short dirt road from the centre leads to Vourvourou s best beach, Karydi. Backed by shady pine trees, this beach is an ideal mix of sand, rocks and solitude. Another sandy beach is at Ormos Panagias, 1km north. GETTING THERE & AWAY Buses leave from Thessaloniki s Halkidiki bus terminal (% ; for Neos Marmaras ( 11.20, 2½ hours, seven daily), Sarti ( 15.80, 3½ hours, five daily) and Vourvourou ( 10.50, four daily). Most of the Sarti buses loop around the Sithonian Peninsula, enjoying coastal views. Getting to Sithonia from Kassandra by bus requires changing at Nea Moudania, at the foot of Kassandra. Athos Peninsula (Secular Athos) Χερσόνησος Αθω The celebrated Athonite monasteries occupy the southeastern part of Halkidiki s third (easternmost) finger. Land entry is not allowed from the secular part of Athos (dominated by nondescript package tourism, though with some fine beaches) into the mountainous monastic part. The narrow strip at the northwestern, secular edge of the Athos Peninsula features on its northern coast the town of Ierissos, where regular ferries service Athos east-coast monasteries, and on the southern coast Ouranopoli, where ferries depart for the west-coast monasteries and their administrative centre at Karyes. If you re not going to monastic Athos, visit Ammoliani, a tiny island with fine beaches, domatia, camping and tavernas. Get there via ferry (six daily) from Trypiti on the south coast of the peninsula. OURANOUPOLI ΟΥΡΑΝΟΥΠΟΛΗ Ouranoupoli, which is located on the southwestern coast of the Athos Peninsula, is a low-key tourist village with good nearby beaches. It is, however, better known as the major jumping-off point for Athos monastic com munity. Along with daily ferries for pilgrims, daily sightseeing boat cruises (per person 15; h10.30am) circle the Athos Peninsula from here. This gives females, banned from monastic Athos, a chance to see something. Alternatively, hiring a boat ( 35) lets you visit the sandy, uninhabited Drenia archipelago, one nautical mile offshore. Sleeping Ouranopoli has signposted domatia. Ouranopoli Camping (% ; fax ; camp sites per adult/tent 9/9; h20 May-30 Oct) A decent, though pricey camping ground; it s on Ouranopoli s northern beach side. Xenios Zeus (% ; /zeus; s/d/tr 35/55/65; a) This friendly, familyrun place on the main street has clean and comfortable rooms with harbour views. If you re en route to monastic Athos, it will hold unnecessary luggage for you. Lazaros Andonakis Rooms (% ; s/d 45/50; a) This reasonable choice has airy, pine-furnished rooms, some with harbour views. To get there, continue 50m seaward from the Pilgrims Office. Mt Athos (Agion Oros) Αγιον Ορος If you re lucky enough to be able to visit Mt Athos, do it. It s one of the most unusual places in the world. A semi-autonomous monastic republic that still follows the Julian calendar, along with many other Byzantine edicts and mores, the Holy Mountain (as it is in Greek) consists of 20 working monasteries and smaller dependencies (skites), with a few very old-school, remote mountain hermitages still inhabited. An enormous World Heritage Site that occupies most of ATHOS PENINSULA To Thessaloniki (104km) 1 Ierissos 2 3 A Nea Roda Ammoliani Trypiti Ierissos Gulf SECULAR ATHOS Ouranopoli Drenia Islets Border of Monastic Athos SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Agias Annis Skiti... 1 C3 Agias Triados... 2 D3 Kerasia... 3 D3 Megistis Lavras... 4 D3 Moni Agiou Pandeleimonos... 5 C2 Moni Agiou Pavlou... 6 C3 Moni Dihiariou... 7 C2 Moni Dionysiou... 8 C3 Moni Esfigmenou... 9 B2 Moni Filotheou C3 Moni Hiliandariou B2 Moni Iviron C2 Moni Karakallou C3 Moni Konstamonitou C2 Moni Koutloumousiou C2 Moni Osiou Grigoriou C3 Moni Pandokratoros C2 B 11 AGION OROS 9 Gulf of Agion Oros the Athos Peninsula, Mt Athos is formally a part of the Greek state, though ecclesiastically it remains under the Greek Patriarchate of Constantinople (İstanbul). Apocryphal legends say that the Virgin Mary herself visited Athos and blessed it; the Holy Mountain is considered the Garden of the Virgin, and it is dedicated exclusively to her, meaning there s no room for other women. Although frustrated Eurocrats in Brussels have contested this prohibition, they have proven no match for over 1000 years of tradition and the gold-sealed decrees (chrysobulls) of Byzantine emperors, whose names are still invoked in prayers and whose edicts continue to be respected. For men, visiting monastic Athos requires cosiderable advance planning (see Getting the Permit, p292 ). Visits are restricted to four days, though they can be extended with special pemission. Experiencing the monasteries, set amid unsullied nature, is wonderfully peaceful and tiring. You follow the monks lifestyle, eating with them, attending services with them (even at 3.30 in the morning) and generally Moni Simonos Petras C3 Moni Stavronikita C2 Moni Vatopediou C2 Moni Xenofondos C2 Moni Xiropotamou C3 Moni Zografou C2 Skiti Agiou Andreou C2 Timiou Prodromou Skiti D3 20 C Karyes Dafni km 0 6 miles S E A D T H R A C I A N 4 Mt Athos Mandraki (2033m) 25 Cape 2 Akrathos NORTHERN GREECE

154 292 MACEDONIA Halkidiki MACEDONIA Halkidiki 293 NORTHERN GREECE respecting the monasteries customs. You are free to walk in the still Athonite forests and down worn trails that connect the monasteries, and to marvel at their architecture and art treasures, enjoying the simple hospitality and anecdotes of the wise old monks over a cup of Greek coffee or raki (Greek fire water). HISTORY Ever since early Byzantine times, ascetics were drawn to rugged, inaccessible Athos. Gradually, a loose community formed. A chrysobull of Emperor Basil I in 885 confirmed Athos special status. In 943, the monastic territory s extent was officially mapped. Some 20 years later the Holy Mountain was formally dedicated, when Emperor Nikoforos II Fokas funded the Megistis Lavras, which was the biggest, if not the first, monastery. As the monastic community continued to flourish under imperial patronage, it also expanded, sparking a reaction from conservative monks who feared traditions were being diluted and that monasteries were becoming too commercially involved. Their grumblings prompted corrective imperial edicts, which reaffirmed prior ones; the most famous is that of Constantine IX Monomahos in 1060, which barred entry for women, female domestic animals, beardless persons and eunuchs. Today, women are still banned, hens are tolerated for their eggs, beards are no longer mandatory, and eunuchs are not readily available. The 11th century was a glorious time for Athos, but destructive pillaging by pirates, Catalans and Crusaders (in 1204) followed. Nevertheless, the Holy Mountain was always reborn. Since founding and subsidising monasteries conferred considerable prestige on the donor, numerous Bulgarian, Russian and Serbian princes started doing so. Athos submitted to Ottoman rule with Thessaloniki s capture in 1430, but managed to retain its semi-independent status throughout Ottoman times. In 1542, the last Athonite monastery, Stavronikita, was founded. During the Greek War of Independence ( ), monasteries were plundered and entire libraries burned by Turkish troops. The Russian Revolution would cause a drastic decline in Russian participation and patronage during atheistic Soviet times. Nowadays, there are 20 ruling monasteries and several dependencies and hermitages. Athos modern constitution dates from 1924, and was guaranteed in the 1975 Greek Constitution. Athos is part of Greece: monks, regardless of origin, become Greek citizens, while the Holy Council (Iera Synaxis), composed of one representative from each monastery, is responsible for internal administration. About 1600 monks currently live on Athos. GETTING THE PERMIT Plan ahead: advance booking of up to six months is required for summer (though in winter it s easier). Only 10 non-orthodox adult males and 100 Orthodox men may enter Mt Athos daily. Those under 18 must be accompanied by their father or, if visiting with a group leader or guardian, will need written permission from their father. You must formally declare your wish to be a pilgrim in writing, stating your preferred visit dates. Send a passport copy to Thessaloniki-based Mt Athos Pilgrims Bureau (% ; fax ; pilgrimsbureau@c-lab.gr; Egnatia 109; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri, 10am-noon Sat), just west of Kamara. There you can start the permit process. While you should double-check in advance, in some cases pilgrims can also just book by /fax, then print out the confirmation reply /fax and go directly to Ouranopoli. Ordained clergymen need written permission from the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople (%in Turkey ) to visit Athos. With your reservation secured and written/printed confirmation from the Pilgrims Office, go to Ouranopoli to obtain your final permit (diamonitirion). ENTERING ATHOS In Ouranopoli, go to the Pilgrims Office (% ; fax ; h8.10am-2pm), on the righthand street just before a Jet Oil station. Look for the black-and-yellow Byzantine flag. Officials will check your passport and booking confirmation, and issue a three-night (four-day) diamonitirion: students pay 10, Orthodox believers 25, and everyone else 30. Free entry is granted on a case-by-case basis to the poor, the sick, and so on. Video cameras aren t allowed, but cameras are fine. Travellers with a vehicle can park at the lot (per day 7.50) on Ouranopoli s south side. Alternatively, if you re going to eastcoast Athonite monasteries, drive or take a bus from Thessaloniki directly to Ierissos: get your diamonitirion here and then board the ferry. KARYES Skiti Agiou Andreou m miles From Ouranopoli, the first boat to Athos main port of Dafni is the Agia Anna, which leaves at 8am and 11am Monday to Saturday, and 8.30am Sunday ( 6). The Axion Esti leaves Ouranopoli at 9.45am ( 4.50). The ticket office (% ) is on the waterfront. Get your diamonitirion sorted out early, as well as your ferry ticket, as queues are common. The voyage takes two hours, with intermediate stops at several monasteries. In Dafni, a bus continues to the administrative capital of Karyes ( 2.60). Alternatively, take a fast Ouranopoli Dafni water taxi (% ), fitting eight passengers ( 140). Once in Karyes, head to your chosen monastery. You stay free, but technically you re supposed to spend only one night in each. The diamonitirion can be extended in Karyes for another two days at the end. Try to book your monasteries in advance, especially in summer. ORIENTATION & INFORMATION Athos main port of Dafni has a port authority, police, customs, post office, shops selling food and locally produced religious items, INFORMATION Bank... 1 B3 Civil Administration Office... 2 B2 Community Clinic... 3 B3 Police Station... 4 B3 Post Office... 5 B3 Telephone... 6 B3 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Mt Athos Holy Administration... 7 B3 Protaton... 8 A3 SLEEPING Guesthouse... 9 B3 Ilarion Guesthouse A3 EATING Bakery A3 TRANSPORT Bus & Taxi Stop B3 and a café. Cardphones are available, and all Greek mobile networks operate. For internet information on Athos, visit a very detailed and visually attractive Athos site, or the informative website of the Britishbased Friends of Mt Athos, whose members include no less than Prince Charles. Karyes hosts the monastic community s Civil Administration Office (% ), police station (% ), Agrotiki Bank, post office, OTE, community clinic (% ), bus stop and rudimentary shops, including a bakery, and a public telephone. Athos two nonmonastic guesthouses, a nameless one (% ) and the Ilarion Guest House (% ) are here too. In the northern part of the Athos Peninsula, the landscape is thickly forested; the south is dominated by the stark, soaring peak of Mt Athos (2033m). Since there s neither industry nor hunting, monastic Athos is practically a nature reserve. You won t find monks swimming around Athos breathtaking, craggy coast, though you may hear tales of the occasional spearfishing, scuba-diving ascetic. Be aware that if you re staying in a monastery where pilgrims dine with the monks, the meal concludes as soon as the simultaneous spiritually edifying reading ends so eat up! EXPLORING ATHOS Although you can take monastic vehicles, local taxi (% ) or boat, walking is the best way to experience Athos serenity. You ll be travelling on paths passing through NORTHERN GREECE

155 294 MACEDONIA Halkidiki MACEDONIA Kavala 295 NORTHERN GREECE tranquil forests, where the only sounds are the rustling of leaves, chirping of birds and the occasional passing monk, rhythmically reciting his prayers. Boat travel (around 1), provides another view of Athos. A caïque leaves Agias Annis daily at 9.45am for Dafni, serving intermediate west-coast monasteries or their arsanas (assigned landing areas) and returning from Dafni every afternoon. A less-regular, eastcoast caïque travels three times weekly between Ierissos and Mandraki (the harbour for Megistis Lavras). Another service around the south connects Mandraki and Agias Annis. While in Karyes, visit the 10th-century Protaton, the basilican church opposite the Holy Epistasia. Its treasures include paintings by Panselinos, the master of the so-called Macedonian School of ecclesiastical art. Karyes to the Southeast Coast Monasteries & Mt Athos To start the grand tour of southeastern Athos, and perhaps hike the mountain, first head northeast from Karyes by foot to the coastal Moni Stavronikita (%/fax ; hnoon-2pm) or, just under it, Moni Iviron (% ; fax ; hnoon-2pm). The latter was founded by Georgian monks and contains a library of over 2000 manuscripts, including 100 rare Georgian-language parchments. From Iviron, continue by coastal paths or by caïque and foot to Moni Filotheou (% ; fax ). Filotheou is also accessible from Karyes, along a shady path with available spring water (3½ hours). Beyond Moni Karakallou (% ; fax ) the old Byzantine path becomes a road; from here it s a 5½-hour walk to Megistis Lavras, though you may catch a lift in a monastic vehicle. Moni Megistis Lavras (% ; fax ) is Athos biggest monastery and the only one never damaged by fire. Incorporated in 963, it contains treasures like frescoes by Theophanes of Crete and the tomb of St Athanasios, its founder. A caïque leaves Megistis Lavras at about 3pm for Agias Annis Skiti (% ), a hermit s dwelling. Alternatively, get there via the wilderness path around the peninsula s southern tip; it passes first Timiou Prodromou Skiti, then Agias Triados on the coast (off the main track), then Kerasia and finally the hospitable Agias Annis. Kerasia or Agias Annis are good bases for climbing Mt Athos (2033m). The hike is not easy; inform someone that you will do it, and don t go up alone. Take food and water and extra clothes, since it gets cold up there. There s a well with drinking water below the summit, at the chapel of Panagia (Virgin Mary). You can return to Dafni from Agias Annis by caïque. Karyes to the Southwest Coast Monasteries Alternatively, start west from Karyes towards the coast, site of spectacular clifftop monasteries like Simonos Petras and Dionysiou. The first monastery you will reach, just west and then south of Karyes, is the friendly Moni Koutloumousiou (% ; fax ). West of Koutloumousiou near the coast is Moni Xiropotamou (% ; fax ; h pm), which boasts comfortable, oillit guest rooms. Somewhat unusually, food and drink is served to guests separately from the monks. Walking south, the path leads to Dafni; you can follow the coastal path or take the daily caïque, which leaves for Agias Annis at 12.30pm, calling at Simonos Petras, Osiou Grigoriou, Dionysiou and Agiou Pavlou. Alternatively, wooded paths in the peninsula s centre, accessible from Moni Koutlomousiou or Moni Filotheou, also reach Simonos Petras. Moni Simonos Petras (Simopetra; % ; fax ; h1-3pm), fronted by wooden balconies jutting above a cliff, is Athos most-photographed monastery. Here and at the other cliff monasteries, standing in the dark under a sky teeming with stars, with the sound of the sea below, is almost a religious experience in itself. From Simonos Petras the coastal path branches off the trail to the arsanas at a small shrine, bringing you to Moni Osiou Grigoriou (% ; fax ). This seafront monastery has a comfortable guesthouse by the harbour, outside the main monastery building. The coastal path from here south climbs and descends three times before reaching the sublime Moni Dionysiou (% ; fax ), another cliff-hanging monastery especially ethereal at night. Dionysiou s katholikon (principal church) contains a very important wax-and-mastic icon of the Virgin and Child. Legend says that in the year 626, facing a grim combined Persian and Avar siege of Constantinople, the patriarch carried the icons round the walls and the city was miraculously saved. The icon is considered to be the oldest in Athos, and though its features are no longer visible, the dark shape indeed resonates with a strange power in its ornate silver case. After Dionysiou, the coastal path continues to Moni Agiou Pavlou (% ; fax ) and Agias Annis Skiti. Karyes to the Northern Monasteries Taking the path north from Karyes towards Moni Vatopediou, Moni Xenofondos and Moni Konstamonitou, the first monastery is the sprawling Skiti Agiou Andreou (% ). Once home to Russian monks, it was largely abandoned during Soviet times but is currently being revitalised. Although it doesn t figure in the tourist guides, humble Agiou Andreou is actually at the very forefront of Mt Athos current cultural and artistic endeavours. The skiti hosts projects by Restaurateurs San Frontieres ( a leading international organisation that has, in the last decade, carried out expert restoration work on over 600 icons and 400 sq metres of wall paintings at a dozen Athonite monasteries, including Iviron, Stavronikita, Koutloumousiou and Dionysiou. Agiou Andreou itself now has a cultural centre, where artists, photographers, writers and musicians inspired by the Holy Mountain exhibit their works. Like-minded pilgrims or other art-lovers should definitely visit this unusual monastery. After Agiou Andreou, continue to the coastal Moni Pandokratoros (% ; fax ), or take the long, lovely forest path to Moni Vatopediou (% ; fax ; h9am-1pm), further along the northeast coast. Although not exactly unorthodox, Vatopediou is unique in that it follows the modern Gregorian (Western) calendar. Vatopediou s sumptuous main church is a must-see, with a jaw-dropping collection of treasures. From Vatopediou, a coastal path leads to Moni Esfigmenou (% ). Further on is Moni Hiliandariou (% ; fax ), a very hospitable and friendly Serbian monastery. In March 2004, a fire burned half the monastery; nevertheless it remains open. Donations for repairing Hiliandariou can be made through the British-based Friends of Mt Athos (see p293 ). The humble, pretty Moni Konstamonitou (%/fax ) is worth visiting, but the Bulgarian Moni Zografou (%/fax ) further north is more famous. Its name, meaning painter, comes from a miraculous icon not painted by human hands. The northernmost west-coast monastery, Moni Dohiariou (%/fax ), slopes down gently to the sea and boasts some of Athos best architecture. These west-coast monasteries are served by the Ouranopoli Dafni ferry. Next on the coastal path is Moni Xenofondos (% ; fax ), first mentioned in 998, but probably dating to the 6th century. Its seafront position made it a target for pirates and it was frequently plundered. Nevertheless, Moni Xenofondos has impressive mid-byzantine marble and woodcarved iconostases in its older, 10th-century katholikon (principal church of a monastic complex); its newer one, completed in 1838, is Athos largest. Continue on to Moni Agiou Pandeleimonos (%/fax ; h10am-noon), the friendly Russian monastery, which at time of writing was closed. Over 1000 monks once inhabited this enormous facility. GETTING THERE & AWAY The bus to Ouranopoli leaves from Thessaloniki s Halkidiki bus terminal (% ; seven times daily ( 10.70, 2½ hours). These buses also serve Ierissos ( 9.30). Taking the first bus (6.15am) from Thessaloniki cuts it close for organising your diamonitirion and ticket before the 9.45am boat; to be safe, stay overnight in Ouranopoli. This lets you rest, buy extra food, and store unnecessary luggage. The return ferry from Athos to Ouranopoli leaves Dafni at noon. There s a quick customs check, meant to prevent antiquities theft. The morning caïque from Agias Annis arrives in Dafni in time for the Ouranopolibound boat. The irregular east-coast caïque provides an alternative exit to Ierissos. The last daily bus to Thessaloniki leaves Ouranopoli at 6.15pm, and Ierissos at 6.35pm. KAVALA ΚΑΒΑΛΑ pop 60,802 With its splendid row of palms on the waterfront, and a hilltop castle standing over a colourful old town, cheery Kavala is instantly likeable. Macedonia s easternmost major town, Kavala is also an important ferry hub NORTHERN GREECE

156 296 MACEDONIA Kavala Book accommodation online at MACEDONIA Kavala 297 NORTHERN GREECE for the northeast Aegean and Dodecanese. However, it itself is worth a little exploring. Kavala s grand aqueduct of great Ottoman Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent ( ) complements the Byzantine fortress, and there are tasty tavernas in the little streets of Panagia, the hillside old quarter, while the harbour-front is good for an evening drink. Modern Kavala is built over ancient Neopolis, the port of Philippi. Mehmet Ali ( ), Pasha of Egypt and founder of its last royal dynasty, was born in Kavala, where his former home still exists. As was the case in Athens and Thessaloniki, the 1923 Greek-Turkish population exchanges brought many new residents. KAVALA To Drama (36km); Thessaloniki (160km) 1 To Batis Camping (3km) 9 Konstandinou Paleologou 3 12 Filippou Erythrou Stavrou Eleftheriou Venizelou Dangli 19 INFORMATION Cybernet... 1 A2 National Bank of Greece... 2 C2 Newsstand... 3 A2 Papadogiannis Bookshop... 4 C1 Port Police... 5 B2 Post Office... 6 B2 Tourist Information... 7 C2 Tourist Police... 8 D2 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Archaeological Museum... 9 A2 House of Mehmet Ali D3 Imaret D3 Municipal Museum of Kavala A1 Statue of Mehmet Ali D3 SLEEPING Galaxy Hotel C2 Giorgos Alvanos Rooms D3 Mitropoleos Kyprou Oktovriou 28 Hrysostomou Kavalas Kapnergati Filikis Eterias Ethnikis Andistasis Averof 5 26 Orientation Kavala s focal point is Eleftherias. The main thoroughfares, Eleftheriou Venizelou and Erythrou Stavrou, run west from here parallel with the waterfront (Ethnikis Andistasis). The old quarter, Panagia, stands at the harbour s southeastern side, above Eleftherias. The bus station is on the corner of Hrysostomou Kavalas and Filikis Eterias, near the Thasos hydrofoil quay. There are public toilets near the hydrofoil departure point. Information ATM-equipped banks line Eleftheriou Venizelou. Megalou 18 EATING Ariko C2 Tembelhanio D3 Zytheio C1 DRINKING Omilos A3 TRANSPORT Aegean Airlines B2 Alkyon Travel Service B2 Budget Rent a Car B2 Bus Station B2 Bus Stop for Alexandroupoli B2 Europcar...(see 21) Ferries for Aegean Islands C3 Hydrofoils for Thasos B2 Nikos Miliadis Shipping Agency C3 Olympic Airlines B2 SAOS Ferries C3 Taxi Stand B2 Alexandrou Pavlou Mela 2 14 Omonias Ermou 7 Dragoumi Filellinon Karaoli Dimitriou 16 Doxas m miles 4 Eleftherias Doiranis Spetson Poulidou 11 Amynda 8 10 Gravias 17 Panagia 13 Mehmet Ali To Airport (29km); Xanthi (59km) Konstandinou Karamanli Aquenduct Gulf of Kavala 15 Anthemiou Cybernet (% ; Erythrou Stavrou 64; per hr 2; h6am-4am) National Bank of Greece (cnr Megalou Alexandrou & Dragoumi) Has exchange machine and ATM. Newsstand (Erythrou Stavrou 32) Sells foreign newspapers and magazines. Papadogiannis Bookshop (Omonias 46) Stocks international newspapers and magazines. Post office (cnr Hrysostomou Kavalas & Erythrou Stavrou) Tourist Information (% ; detaktic@otenet.gr; Eleftherias; h8am-2pm Mon-Fri) Helpful staff provide maps, plus accommodation, transport and events information. Tourist police (% ; Omonias 119) Sights The Archaeological Museum (% ; Erythrou Stavrou 17; adult 2; h8am-3pm Tue-Sun), on Ethnikis Andistasis western end, has finds from ancient Amphipolis, an Athenian colony west of Kavala that operated gold mines on nearby Mt Pangaeum. The finds include sculpture, jewellery, grave stelae, terracotta figurines and vases. The Municipal Museum of Kavala (% ; Filippou 4; admission free; h8am-1.30pm Mon-Sat) displays contemporary Greek art, along with a folk-art collection including costumes, jewellery, handcrafts, household items and tools. Ascend the narrow, tangled streets of the Panagia quarter, lined with pretty pastel houses, for an evening stroll and atmospheric dining. The grandest of several wellpreserved 18th-century buildings here is the Imaret (% ; Poulidou 6). This huge 18-domed structure overlooking the harbour was built in 1817 by Pasha Mehmet Ali as a hostel for theology students. The Imaret is now a very exclusive hotel; alas, the hotel has swallowed up the restored House of Mehmet Ali, so it s no longer for public viewing. Sleeping Batis Camping (% ; camp sites per adult/tent 5/4.90) Small, decent camping ground 3km west. Giorgos Alvanos Rooms (% ; Anthemiou 35; s/d 20/30) Kavala s best budget option, marked by consistent prices and clean and comfortable rooms, these simple domatia are in a 300-year-old house up in Panagia. Rooms have refrigerators and sea views, but bathrooms are shared. It s a steep walk uphill to get here, so call Giorgos first to make sure there s a room. Galaxy Hotel (% ; fax ; Eleftheriou Venizelou 27; s/d 40/55; a) This old stand-by has good if unremarkable rooms with all mod cons and a nice location above the waterfront, but there s street noise. Imaret (% ; Poulidou 6; s/ d/ste incl breakfast 220/330/880; as) Nowhere else in northern Greece is there a hotel like this. The restored Imaret seeks to complement the original stone architecture devised by Pasha Mehmet Ali in the early 19th century with modern luxuries and elegant lighting. The huge rooms, with vaulted ceilings, harbour views and large fireplaces, are located around three inner courtyards. A Turkish hammam has been lavishly restored; there s a candle-lit indoor pool for essential oils treatments, a reading room and even an orangerie. Eating & Drinking Poulidou in Panagia has good tavernas, while lively café-bars are on the western waterfront. Tembelhanio (% ; Poulidou 33b; mezedhes 3-5) A good spot for seafood mezedhes, Tempelhanio has a relaxed setting in Panagia and a dedicated, ouzo-imbibing Greek clientele. Ariko (% ; Erythrou Stavrou 2; mains 5) Housed in the old fish market building, this popular place with its inviting outdoor dining has a wide-ranging fish menu and other traditional specialities. The owner recommends the clam saganaki. Zytheio (% ; Pavlou Mela 5; mains 7-10) This new place in the middle of town, which subtitles itself the world of beers, has 25 international brews, bountiful salads, and filling lunch options ranging from Greek specialities to pasta to spare ribs. Omilos (port; h10am-late) Watch the boats bob in the harbour from the draped blueand-white-striped couches at this smooth café on the jetty at the port s western side. Omilos has a spacious central bar on the inside for when it gets busy at night. Getting There & Away AIR Kavala shares the Alexander the Great Airport near Hrysoupoli (29km), with Xanthi. Olympic Airlines (% ; Ethnikis Andistasis 8) does two daily Athens flights ( 76), Aegean Airlines, one daily ( 66). NORTHERN GREECE

157 298 MACEDONIA Pella MACEDONIA Mt Olympus 299 NORTHERN GREECE BUS The bus station (% ; cnr Filikis Eterias & Hrysostomou Kavalas) has buses to Athens ( 40, 9½ hours, three daily), Xanthi ( 4.70, one hour, half-hourly), Keramoti ( 4, one hour, hourly) and Thessaloniki ( 12.90, two hours, hourly). There s inexpensive luggage storage at the bus station s storeroom (apothiki). Buses for Alexandroupoli ( 10.95, two hours, seven daily) depart from the bus stop (Hrysostomou Kavalas 1) outside the small 7-Eleven Snack Bar opposite the KTEL office. Get tickets and information inside. Turkey OSE buses from Thessaloniki leave Kavala for Turkey at 4.30am daily except Monday (single/return 38/68). Alkyon Travel Service (% ; alkyontrv@ticketcom.gr; Eleftheriou Venizelou 37), from which buses also depart, has tickets. FERRY Ferries go every two hours in summer to Skala Prinou on Thasos ( 3.30, 1¼ hours, hourly), and frequent boats during summer go from Keramoti, 46km east of Kavala, to Thasos (Limenas) for 2. This boat takes 40 minutes. In summer, a weekly ferry serves Samothraki ( 14.50, four hours). Buy tickets and check the schedule at Saos Ferries (% ) near the Aegean Islands ferry departure point. Ferries also service Limnos ( 15.30, five hours) and Lesvos ( 26.50, 10 hours). Some services also go through to Lavrio (in Attica) and Piraeus via Chios and Samos. Get tickets at Nikos Miliadis Shipping Agency (% ; fax ; Karaoli-Dimitriou 36). HYDROFOIL In summer, four daily hydrofoils connect Kavala and Skala Prinou on Thasos ( 7.50, 40 minutes); although the competition might tell you they don t, another four daily go from Kavala directly to Thasos (Limenas) ( 10, 40 minutes). Get tickets on boarding. Hydrofoils berth at the port s western side, down from the bus station and by the port police kiosk, which posts hydrofoil and ferry schedules. Getting Around TO/FROM THE AIRPORT The only option is by taxi ( 25). CAR Try Budget Rent a Car (% ; Eleftheriou Venizelou 35) or nearby Europcar, located at Alkyon Travel Service (% ; alkyon-trv@ticketcom.gr; Eleftheriou Venizelou 37). TAXI For taxis try the bus station, or dial % PELLA ΠΕΛΛΑ The birthplace of Alexander the Great, Pella (% ; admission 6; h8am-7.30pm Tue-Sun, noon-7.30pm Mon) spans the Thessaloniki Edessa road, and features spectacular mosaics. Pella became Macedon s capital under King Archelaos (who ruled from 413 BC to 399 BC), though the old capital of Aigai (Vergina) remained the royal cemetery. Created with naturally coloured, subtly contrasting stones, the mosaics depict mythological scenes. They were created for ancient houses and public buildings now destroyed. Some are in situ, others in the museum. Also on this (northern) side of the road are six reerected columns and a courtyard laid out with a black-and-white geometric mosaic. On the southern side is the museum (admission free with Pella ticket; h8am-7.30pm). Room One has a wall reconstruction from an ancient house, and a circular table inlaid with intricate floral and abstract designs, which possibly belonged to Philip II. Room Two houses more mosaics. Getting There & Away Thessaloniki Pella buses go every 45 minutes from 6am to 10pm ( 2.90, 40 minutes). To visit Pella and Vergina by bus in one day, first see Pella, then take a Thessaloniki-bound bus to Halkidona and take a Vergina bus from there. MT OLYMPUS ΟΛΥΜΠΟΣ ΟΡΟΣ The cloud-covered lair of the ancient Greek pantheon, awe-inspiring Mt Olympus is Greece s highest mountain and fires the imagination, just as it did in ancient times. It also hosts around 1700 plant species, some rare and endemic. Its slopes are covered with thick forests of numerous different deciduous trees, conifers and pines, and bird life is equally varied. Olympus became Greece s first national park in The first known mortals to reach Mytikas (2918m), Olympus highest peak, were MT OLYMPUS THESSALY Skourta (2485m) SEO Refuge (Giossos Apostolides) Profitis Iiias Toumba (2803m) (2801m) Kazania Mytikas (2918m) Stefani (2907m) Skolio (2911m) Kaki Agios Andonis (2815m) Skala Ski Lift Zonaria Papa Rema Ravine Lemos Plateau of the Muses Hristos Kakalos (Refuge C) Louki Couloir Stavroïties Keramidi O2 Spilios Agapitos (Refuge A) Balkoni Anavryko MACEDONIA Litohoro local Christos Kakalos and Swissmen Frederic Boissonas and Daniel Baud-Bovy, in August Litohoro Λιτόχωρο pop 7011 / elev 305m Relaxing Litohoro (lih-to-ho-ro) is the base for climbing or just admiring Olympus, and is a charming getaway in its own right. It has numerous winding, cobbled streets and lovely Macedonian wood-balconied houses. The introduction to it is dramatic: on the final eastern approach to the village, the Enipeas River gorge parts, revealing the towering double peaks of Olympus. Unsurprisingly, Litohoro gets plenty of tourists (and tour buses), so book ahead in summer. ORIENTATION The main entry road from Thessaloniki or Katerini, Agiou Nikolaou, is also Litohoro s main thoroughfare; it leads to Eleftherias, the main square. To reach Prionia, where the main trail up Olympus begins, go right on Ithakisiou, just before this plateia. M T Kaloyeros (2701m) Mandres (2254m) E4 Petrostrounga Enipeas Moni Agiou Dionysiou Prionia O Pagos (2682m) Strangos L Ithakisios Cave Y Simeoforos (2366m) Barba M P Refuge Livadaki Dimitris Boundolas Refuge (Refuge D) Diastavrosi U S Ano Tsouknida (1506m) Mt Olympus National Park Kato Tsouknida (1078m) To Ancient Dion (7km); Katerini (23km) Enipeas Rahi (926m) Gorge Litohoro To Athens (390km) To the left of the plateia is 28 Oktovriou, site of most shops. The bus station is on Agiou Nikolaou, opposite tourist information. INFORMATION The National Bank of Greece, on Eleftherias, and the nearby Alpha, Commercial and Agricultural banks have ATMs. The EOS (% ; h9.30am-12.30pm & 6-8pm Mon-Sat Jun-Sep), just below the public parking lot, distributes pamphlets with general and hiking information on Olympus. Take Ithakisiou down from the square and turn left after 100m. The EOS runs three mountain refuges. GRNet (% ; cnr Atanas & Koutrouba; internet access per hr 2; h24hr) Internet café near the plateia. Medical Centre (% ) Located 5km away, at the Litohoro turn-off from the main coastal highway. Police (% ; cnr Ithakisiou & Agiou Nikolaou) Post office (28 Oktovriou 11) SEO (Association of Greek Climbers; % ; h6-10pm) Also informative and runs an Olympus refuge; however, the EOS has more English-speakers. Walk down Ithakiou, turn left and then left again. E4 0 2 km 0 1 mile NORTHERN GREECE

158 300 MACEDONIA Mt Olympus Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at MACEDONIA Veria 301 NORTHERN GREECE Tourist information booth (Agiou Nikolaou) In a little white building with wooden eaves, just before Ithakiou. The informative official website of the Municipality of Litohoro. SLEEPING & EATING Campers should break for the coast, where camping grounds with good services exist (though the beaches are underwhelming). Litohoro s hotels have wonderful atmosphere. Olympios Zeus (% ; Plaka Litohorou; camp sites per adult/tent 6/3.50) A good bet, though somewhat ramshackle. Olympos (% ; Plaka Litohorou; camp sites per adult 6.80, tent 5-7) Similarly decent, but livelier with its loud onsite Shark nightclub. oxenonas Papanikolaou (% ; xenpap@otenet.gr; Nikolaou Episkopou Kitrous 1; s/d 40/45) Solitude-seekers, head here first. This romantic guesthouse, set in a flowery garden up in the backstreets, is a world away from the tourist crowds on Litohoro s main street. Rooms feel more spacious than they actually are, and the tasteful decoration is enhanced by nice views of Litohoro s traditional terracotta rooftops. The cosy downstairs lounge has a fireplace and couches, and management is friendly and helpful. To get there from the square, take 28 Oktovriou uphill and turn left on Nikolaou Episkopou Kitrous. Villa Pantheon (% ; fax ; d/tr 50/70; a) Outfitted with all the mod cons and cursed as the white thing appearing in front of Mt Olympus, the Pantheon has comfortable, airy rooms. Hotel Olympus Mediterranean (% ; Dionysou 5; d/tr/luxury ste incl breakfast 90/100/135; a) This snazzy new four-star hotel up high in the backstreets has assumed the mantle as Litohoro s poshest. It s set in an imposing neoclassical building with ornate balconies, and has 20 luxurious rooms and three suites, plus an indoor pool, a mosaictiled Jacuzzi pool and a sauna. Some rooms also have fireplace and Jacuzzi. Damaskinia (% ; Vasileos Konstandinou 4; mains 5-8) A popular upper-town taverna, Damaskinia does tasty mousakas and kokoretsi (spit-roast lamb offal). ogastrodromio (% ; Eleftherias; mains 7-11) If Gastrodromio was around in Olympian times, Zeus and Co would have eaten here. Litohoro s most delightfully inventive restaurant, the spacious, traditionally decorated Gastrodromio serves flavourful dishes like octopus with peppercorn, cumin, garlic, hot pepper and wine, or rabbit cooked in wine and glazed with almonds, cinnamon and nutmeg. The wine list itself is 21 pages long. GETTING THERE & AWAY From the bus station (% ), buses serve Katerini ( 2, 25 minutes, 17 daily), Thessaloniki ( 8, 1½ hours, 10 daily) and Athens ( 28, 5½ hours, three daily via Katerini). Buses from Thessaloniki to Volos/Athens leave you on the highway, where you catch a Katerini Litohoro bus. Litohoro s train station, 9km away, gets 10 daily trains on the Athens Volos Thessaloniki train line. Ancient Dion Δίον Below Mt Olympus, just north of Litohoro, is Ancient Dion (Dion Archaeological Park; adult/student 6/2; h8am-5pm winter, 8am-7pm rest of year), sacred to the Macedonians for the worship of the Olympian gods. Before his eastern adventures, Alexander the Great sacrificed here. Originally, a fertility earth goddess was worshipped here, and later, other gods came into vogue, such as Asclepius, god of medicine. Dion s Sanctuary to Isis, the exotic Egyptian goddess, stands in a lush, low-lying area. Its votive statues were found virtually intact, with faint colour remaining. Copies are in place of the originals, now in the site s museum. A well-preserved mosaic floor from 200 AD, depicting the Dionysos Triumphal Epiphany, is also magnificent. During August s Olympus Festival, Dion s reconstructed theatre hosts performances. The archaeological park ticket is good for Dion s museum (% ; h8am-7pm Tue- Fri, 10.30am-5pm Mon, 8.30am-3pm Sat & Sun), which has a well-labelled collection of statues and other finds. Since Dion is somewhat isolated, staying overnight in the village becomes an option; Dion Hotel (% ; s/d 30/35) on the main road has simple but decent rooms. For eats, try the standard Restaurant Dionysos (% ; mains ), opposite the museum. GETTING THERE & AWAY Catching a taxi ( 8) is best, as there aren t buses from Litohoro. Alternatively, regular buses go from Katerini, 16km north. VERIA ΒΕΡΟΙΑ pop 43,683 Nicknamed Little Jerusalem for its 70-plus churches, Veria is an intriguing though little-visited town 75km west of Thessaloniki, on the road to ancient Vergina. It features an old Jewish quarter, traditional Turkish houses and numerous mineral springs. Peaches grow in abundance around Veria, as do grapes, with the local Boutaris vineyards producing some of Greece s best wines. Orientation The two main squares, Andoniou and Raktivan (1km apart), are linked by main thoroughfares, Venizelou and Mitropoleos. The conjunction of Venizelou and Mitropoleos Elias leads to the escarpment ridge along which Anixeos runs north south. The bus station is one block east of Venizelou. The train station is 3km north of town on the old road to Thessaloniki. Information ATM-equipped banks line both Venizelou and Mitropoleos. Municipal Culture Office (cnr Pavlou Mela & Bizaniou) This office is responsible for tourism promotion in Veria. It produces some useful brochures on the town. Pla-Net Café (Elias 9; internet access per hr 3; h9.30am-2am) Police (% ; Mitropoleos) Post office (Dionysiou Solomou 4) Tourist information booth (Anixeos & Elias; h9am-5pm) Sights & Activities To reach Veria s evocative old Jewish quarter, Barbouta, walk from Andoniou down Vasileos Konstandinou, the commercial street of old Veria, flanked by shops and kafeneia. Halfway along on the right is a huge, ancient plane tree from which the Turks hanged Archbishop Arsenios in 1430, after taking Veria. Opposite is the dilapidated, 12th-century cathedral, whose decapitated minaret attests to the cathedral s Ottoman incarnation as a mosque. The archaeological museum (% ; Leoforos Anixeos 45; admission free; h8am-3pm Tue-Sun), at the northern end of Anixeos, contains finds from the Vergina tombs and nearby Lefkadia. Numerous little Byzantine churches (a few are open) are found in Veria s old streets. Popular cafés and restaurants are found in the restored traditional area, south of Mitropoleos. The popular ski resort of Mt Vermio, 22km west, has eight slopes and three ski lifts. Sleeping & Eating Veria s accommodation scene is not auspicious for budget travellers. Its dining specialities include oven-cooked bean soup (fasoladha) and revani, a sweet syrupy Turkish cake. Hotel Macedonia (% ; Kondogiorgaki 50; s/d 50/72; pa) A quiet hotel with good, well-furnished rooms, the Macedonia also has a nice rooftop terrace. From Elias take Paster, which becomes Kondogiorgaki. Hotel Villa Elia (% ; eliaver@otenet.gr; Elias 16; s/d 55/70; a) Slightly louder but closer to the action is this business hotel with large, comfortable rooms. Menou (% ; Raktivan 14; mains 5-7) The fasoladha bean concoction is recommended at this vegetarian-friendly joint, as is the baked eggplant with ground beef (imam baïldi). To Katafygi (% ; Kondogeorgaki 18; mains 5-8) This hide-out, as its name means in Greek, is in a restored old building and serves game dishes, such as quail, and an inventive variety of mushroom dishes along with more usual taverna fare. Getting There & Away BUS From the bus station (% ; Trembesinas) buses serve Thessaloniki ( 5.50, 1¼ hours), Athens ( 30, seven hours), Edessa ( 4, one hour) and Vergina ( 2, 20 minutes). Buses for Kastoria ( 10.30, two hours) go from a station on Pierion 155, 2km west of town. TRAIN From the train station (% ), just north of town off the old Thessaloniki road, 14 daily trains traverse the line connecting Veria with Thessaloniki ( 2.10, one hour) and Florina ( 3.50, two hours). Getting Around You can travel around Veria by taxi (% ). VERGINA ΒΕΡΓΙΝΑ pop 1246 Vergina (ver-yee-nah), 11km southeast of Veria, is the legendary burial site of the Macedonian kings, and their first capital (ancient Aigai). In 336 BC, at the wedding of his daughter NORTHERN GREECE

159 302 MACEDONIA Edessa Book accommodation online at MACEDONIA Florina 303 NORTHERN GREECE Cleopatra, Philip II was assassinated here. At least the guests were already there. This World Heritage listed site is also called the Royal Tombs (% ; adult 8; h pm Mon, 8am-7pm Tue-Sun summer, 8.30am- 3pm winter). A walkway through the darkened interior of the major tumulose (tholos) leads to the four individual tombs. Tomb I is called Persephone s Tomb, after a mural found inside depicting Hades rape of Persephone. Tomb II probably belonged to Philip II. Intact until its discovery in 1977, the tomb yielded a gold larnax (ossuary) with bones. The sixteen-pointed star of the royal Macedonian family on the larnax lid, and damage to the skull identical with descriptions of an injury Philip sustained, pointed to its likely inhabitant. Philip s larnax and that of his presumed concubine or wife, plus some exquisite gold-leaf diadems, are displayed in the exhibition rooms. Tomb III was probably designated for Alexander IV, son of Alexander the Great, while the mysterious Tomb IV was looted in antiquity. To see the rest of the site, continue 400m past the Royal Tombs to the ruins of an extensive palatial complex, summer residence of 3rd-century-BC king Antigonos Gonatas. The main attraction is a large Doric peristyle, surrounded by floors of pebble-mosaic; the most beautiful has geometric floral design. Aside from the site, there s no reason to linger, though Vergina does have a few pensions. EDESSA ΕΔΕΣΣΑ pop 16,000 The deep breaths you will take in Edessa (ed-eh-sah) come with the sight of its great, rushing waterfalls set in lush verdure, and the moist, refreshing air they create. Edessa also has an attractive though dilapidated old quarter, little streams, shaded parks and a Byzantine bridge, perched precariously on a ledge overlooking the seemingly endless agricultural plain. Edessa also makes a good base for further explorations in western Macedonia. Until 1977, when Vergina s royal tombs were discovered, Edessa was believed to be the ancient Macedonian city of Aigai. With the government s Hellenisation project of Macedonia following the Greek Turkish population exchanges of 1923, the town s long-existing Slavic name of Vodena ( place of water ) was changed to the ancient Greek name of Edessa. Orientation The bus station is near the centre, on the corner of Filippou and Pavlou Mela. From there cross Filippou and follow Pavlou Mela to the T-junction; turning right puts you in the centre on Dimokratias. The train station, on Leoforos Nikis, is a 10-minute walk along 18 Oktovriou to the centre. Edessa s famous waterfalls and the Varosi old quarter are near and well signposted. If somehow you get lost, ask a local how to reach the kataraktes (waterfalls). Information Major banks with ATMs are on and around Dimokratias. Police (% ; Iroön Polytehniou) On the street between Filippou and Dimokratias. Post office (Dimokratias 26) Tourist information office (% ; Helpful staff led by the friendly Evangelos Kyriakou provide maps of Edessa and nearby attractions; the office is in a kiosk before the waterfalls. Sights Edessa s waterfalls come in different sizes; the best are found in a well-signposted park near the tourist office. The biggest thunders dramatically down a high cliff, filling the air with moisture; take a cloth for your camera lens. There s an observation deck immediately behind this waterfall, and standing here behind the tumbling water and hanging green moss is revitalising. On the path just before the observation deck is a small cave ( 1), inside the cliff mass. Following a winding path downwards to the other side of the cliff brings you to a second, less impressive waterfall. Down to the right of these waterfalls is the Water Museum (adult 1.50; h11am-4pm Wed-Mon), with a collection of water-industry equipment. It also houses a pretty wild aquarium with various species of fish, amphibians, snapping turtles, poisonous snakes and one cranky, cooped-up crocodile. Continuing south along the escarpment ridge you ll reach Varosi, the old quarter of town, with cobbled streets, chapels and traditional houses in various states of disrepair. The colourful Folkloric Museum (adult 1.50; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) is here too. Turning the other way from the waterfalls through the park brings you to Edessa s very pretty Byzantine bridge, thought to have been part of the Via Egnatia. Activities Outdoor sports are big around Edessa. Giannis Hatziantoniou (% ) arranges activities like hiking expeditions, cycling tours and GPS orienteering trips. Tasos Privartitsanis (% ) is the man for parapente and hang-gliding opportunities. George Mousios (% ; 1-/2-hr rides 15/20) organises mountain horse-riding. Sleeping ovarosi (% ; Arhiereos Meletiou 55-70; s/d incl breakfast 55/70; pa) Edessa s best and most atmospheric pension, traditionally furnished Varosi is tucked away in the old Varosi quarter. It s lovingly run by Anastasia Salahora and her two daughters, who have restored this traditional Macedonian wood-and-stone house of eight rooms and furnished it with antique brass beds, fine linen and colourful embroidery. In winter, the lounge rooms are kept warm and cosy by log fires; in summer, there s a flower-filled balcony for relaxing over coffee. The hearty breakfast is recommended. Prices are often lower than those listed. Hagiati (% ; s/d incl breakfast 60/70; a) This small guesthouse of seven rooms, around the corner before Varosi, has a lovely open courtyard and peaceful setting. With its mostly modern fixtures, Hagiati doesn t have the traditional ambience of Varosi, but is still a nice choice. Eating Raeti (% ; 18 Oktovriou 20; mezedhes 3-5, mains ) Try the well-prepared Macedonian mezedhes and filling meat dishes. Katarraktes Edessas (% ; Kapetan Gareti-Perdika 1; mains 5-7) Publicly owned Katarraktes Edessas is next to the falls, with both outdoor and indoor dining. The menu is standard but dependable. Getting There & Away BUS From the bus station (% ; Pavlou Mela 13) buses serve Thessaloniki ( 7.20, one hour 40 minutes, hourly), Veria ( 4, one hour, six daily) and Athens ( 39.70, eight hours, three daily). Buses for Florina depart from another station (% ), located 30m from the main one. TRAIN The train station (% ; Leoforos Nikis) has trains to Thessaloniki ( 4.50), Larisa ( 6.10), Athens ( 15.50), Kozani ( 2.80) and Florina ( 2.40). Getting Around You can travel around Edessa by taxi (% ). FLORINA ΦΛΩΡΙΝΑ pop 15,555 Colourful Florina (flo-rih-nah), celebrated throughout Greece for its sweet red peppers, is nestled in a valley between mountains that make it frigid in winter. Although small, it s livened up by a student population that congregates under the bright awnings of cafés on its central pedestrian street. In evenings, its river is a favourite place for leisurely strolls. Florina is also the gateway to the Prespa Lakes to the west, and is about 40km south of Bitola, the first major city in the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia; the two have certain resemblances. Also, a small ski resort, Vigla, is located 15km west of Florina on the Prespes road. Although it has only three small museums, Florina is important historically. It was the northernmost town annexed by Greek troops during the Balkan Wars of , and near the front in subsequent wars. The issue of a (Slavic) Macedonian minority in Greece, which the government denies outright, has always been sensitive in Florina, where a significant percentage of the Greek population speak the Macedonian language. Heavy, though subtle, pressure from Greek society, media and government has sought to stamp it out, but if you have sharp ears and local awareness, you will still hear Macedonian spoken in Florina and environs, though mostly by older people. Orientation Florina curves below a forested peak on its western edge, and is divided by a river. The central street, Pavlou Mela, leads to the main square ( Georgiou Modi). Pavlou Mela s western, pedestrianised half is lined with cafés. NORTHERN GREECE

160 304 MACEDONIA Florina Book accommodation online at MACEDONIA Prespa Lakes 305 NORTHERN GREECE From the bus station, head downhill on either of the two roads hemming in the city park and cross Kastrisianaki to reach Pavlou Mela, or veer southwest onto Stefanou Dragoumi and after 300m find Georgiou Modi, marking the beginning of the pedestrianised half of Pavlou Mela. The river is just south. From the train station, Pavlou Mela is very close, running east from the southwestern edge of the park beside the station. Information The National Bank of Greece, on Megalou Alexandrou, and the Commercial Bank behind it have ATMs; other major banks/atms are available, too. InFlorina (% ; Giorgiou Modi 13) A private agency with local tourism information. Netville (% ; Pavlou Mela; internet access per hr 3; h10am-midnight) Internet café opposite, but slightly east of Hotel Hellinis. Police (% ; Sangariou 24) Five hundred metres west of Giorgiou Modi. Post office (Kalergi 22) Left of Stefanou Dragoumi when approaching the bus station. Sights Florina s little archaeological museum (% ; Sidirodromikou Stathmou 3; admission 2; h8.30am- 3pm Tue-Sun), near the train station, contains ancient finds, including objects from the Hellenistic City site on Agios Panteleimonos hill near Florina. Straddling both riverbanks, Old Florina contains many attractive Turkish houses and neoclassical mansions; one has been restored by the Society for the Friends of Art of Florina, and reincarnated as the Museum of Modern Art (% ; Leoforos Eleftherias 103; admission free; h6-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun). The museum s permanent collection of contemporary Greek art is complemented by frequent exhibitions. Walk down 25 Martiou, cross the bridge and turn right; the museum s a further 200m. The Folk Museum (%23850; Karavitou 2; admission free; h6-8pm Mon, Wed & Sat) Near the courthouse, the museum keeps inconvenient hours, but has unique photographs and folk costumes. Sleeping ohotel Hellinis (% ; hellinis@line.gr; Pavlou Mela 31; s/d 30/40) Clearly Florina s best budget option, the Hellinis has clean, modern rooms and a friendly staff that provides helpful travel information for Florina and western Macedonia in general. None of Florina s budget hotels have air-conditioning, but unlike the others, the Hellinis at least provides fans. The eclectic coffee bar has a small balcony and is decorated with flower-painted walls, a working aquarium, paintings of schooners and the odd guitar. It s two minutes west of the train station and a three-minute walk straight down the hill from the bus station. Hotel Antigone (% ; Arrianou 1; s/d incl breakfast 40/50) The faded Antigone is a little beyond the bus station, but well beyond its sell-by date, as indicated by the tattered rooms and old fixtures. Save a few euros by opting out of the lacklustre breakfast. Hotel Lingos (% ; Tagmatarhou Naoum 1; s/d 75/95; a) If you re set on four-star accommodation, head to the Best Western owned Lingos, just north of Georgiou Modi. It has all expected amenities, dedicated PC phone ports, a roof garden, and the occasional Greek celebrity or political guest. Eating & Drinking Florina has mostly simple tavernas cooking grilled meat. Cafés line Pavlou Mela s pedestrian -only western half. Prespes (% ; Tyrnovou 12; mains 5-7; hdinner) A no-nonsense central eatery, Prespes is strong on meats, grilled or roasted. opsarotaverna O Giorgos (% ; Grevenon 16; fish 5-8; h9pm-1am, closed Sun) Florina s only fish restaurant, this friendly hilltop place 500m west of the centre serves tasty golden fillets of Prespa carp and trout, plus fish from the Aegean; the owner, Giorgos Hasos, visits Thessaloniki s fish markets three times weekly for fresh-off-the-boat seafood. It s open only for dinner, after 7pm in winter and after 9pm in summer. To Varosi (% ; Eleftherias 84; mains 6-8; hwed-mon) Another good spot for grilled meats, this little restaurant is about 200m west of the centre, on the close bank of the river. Art Café (% ; Pavlou Mela 106; h9am- 2am) Pavlou Mela has a string of colourful cafés with differing stylistic charms. Art Café, on the western end, with many juices, good ice cream, coffee drinks and flowery retro couches, is one of the more colourful. Getting There & Away BUS Domestic From the bus station (% ) buses go to Athens ( 43.40, nine hours, two daily), Thessaloniki ( 13.40, 3½ hours, six daily). For the Prespa Lakes, buses leave on Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 3pm to Agios Germanos ( 4.40, 1½ hours); however, the bus continues to Psarades ( 5.80) only on Wednesday. Buses from Florina return immediately, so you will have to stay over in Prespes. To reach Kastoria from Florina, take a bus to Amynteo ( 3.20, 30 minutes, eight daily) and change there. However, Amynteo has only three daily buses for the final one-hour leg to Kastoria, and they re not timed for seamless connections. International When school s in session, two buses daily go from Florina to the Macedonian border at Niki ( 2, 30 minutes); in summer, it s just once a week. For Albania, a weekly bus stops at the Greek border post at Krystallopigi ( 4.80, 1½ hours). TAXI A taxi to Bitola (40km) in the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia costs about 40 one way or 50 return; the latter includes two hours for sightseeing. Ask local taxi drivers, or arrange through your hotel. TRAIN Florina s train station (% ) is where the Thessaloniki train line terminates; five daily trains ply this route. Major stops before Thessaloniki ( 5.30, three hours) include Edessa ( 2.40, 70 minutes) and Veria ( 3.50, two hours). PRESPA LAKES ΛΙΜΝΕΣ ΠΡΕΣΠΩΝ The magical, mountainous northwest corner of Greek Macedonia holds the twin treasures of lakes Megali Prespa and Mikri Prespa (collectively known as Prespes), separated by a narrow strip of land and partially divided between three countries. Since foreign tourists seldom visit, Prespes has retained its tranquil natural beauty, and boasts lovely traditional stone-house villages and significant Byzantine antiquities. The drive from Florina is an astonishing one, passing by thick forests with Dupeni PRESPA LAKES 0 5 km 0 3 miles Golem Grad Askitiria FORMER YUGOSLAV REPUBLIC OF MACEDONIA Lake Megali Prespa Psarades Koula Lemos Dolno Agios Germanos Prespa Miliona Information Centre Platy Kallithea Pontoon Agios Ahillios Pyli Lefkonas Wildlife Basilica Refuge of Agios Karyes Prespa Lakes Ahillios National Park Lake Mikri Vrondero Prespa Mikrolimni ALBANIA To Florina (25km) To Kastoria (21km) sweeping mountain views and the occasional bear-crossing sign. Mikri Prespa (43 sq km) is mostly Greece s, though Albania controls the lake s tiny southwestern tip. Although small, Mikri Prespa is serene, lined with rustling reed beds in which nest numerous species of birds, including cormorants, Dalmatian pelicans, egrets, herons and ibis, making for great bird-watching. A tectonic lake at least one million years old, Megali Prespa (850m) is one of Europe s oldest lakes, feeding the equally old (but much larger) Lake Ohrid to the northwest through underground springs. Greece controls 38 sq km of southeastern Megali Prespa, while the majority (1000 sq km) further north is part of the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia. Albania controls a small southwestern piece. On the Greek side, much of the Megali Prespa shore is precipitous rock, rising dramatically from the chilly blue water. A few kilometres north across the Macedonian border, however, a sandy beach stretches 2km before the idyllic village of Dolno Dupeni; there s been talk of reopening this longdormant border crossing, so check locally. The whole microregion, as it s called by eager Eurocrats bent on multinational integration schemes, has been thankfully kept wild. In Greece, Prespes has been a national park for over 30 years; around the northern section of Megali Prespa, national parks of the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia cover each of its mountainous banks (Galicica NORTHERN GREECE

161 306 MACEDONIA Prespa Lakes Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at MACEDONIA Kastoria 307 NORTHERN GREECE on the western, and Pelister on the eastern). Thus the whole area is a remarkably still haven for peace-seeking wildlife and human life alike. As in Byzantine times, the whole Prespes region was a front-line battleground during the Balkan Wars of , both World Wars and the Greek Civil War, causing widespread suffering, which resulted in emigration and forced exile, affecting thousands of locals. Agios Germanos Αγιος Γερμανός pop 231 Polished Agios Germanos, filled with wonderful stone houses and notable Byzantine sites, is Prespes main town and, though it s not on the lake, offers the most atmospheric accommodation. There s also good eating to be had, and hill trails to walk it off. ORIENTATION & INFORMATION Agios Germanos has a bus stop, taxi and Prespes only post office. There are no banks; change money at the post office. Community clinic (% ) Information centre (%/fax ; h9.30am-3pm) On the road approaching the village, the Prespa National Park information centre has interesting displays. Ask about free, guided bird-watching. Police (% ) Steki (% ; h6-10pm Tue-Sat) In neighbouring Lemos, this friendly community centre has internet access. SIGHTS The village s two churches, Agios Athanasios and Agios Germanos, are outstanding examples of mid-byzantine ecclesiastical architecture. The latter, named after the village s patron saint, is a cosy, domed brick structure from the 11th century, which contains some vivid frescoes. An explanatory board in the courtyard provides some background. SLEEPING & EATING Agios Germanos Hostel (% ; s/d 35/52; p) Signposted just opposite Agios Germanos church, this restored old farmhouse offers 10 wood-and-stone rooms and generous breakfasts. To Petrino (% ; s/d 40/50; p) The first hotel youll see when entering town, To Petrino is a very appealing traditional guesthouse with rustic furniture and wood beams. The hospitable owners can provide local travel information. oto Tzaki (% ; mains 5-8) Just up past the Church of Agios Germanos, this garden taverna offers great spare ribs, sweet red Florina peppers in oil, xinotyri (sour cheese) and a flaky pie stuffed with nettles (not the stinging kind!) called tsouknidopita. The white dog and cat get along well enough to beg for scraps as a team. GETTING THERE & AWAY From Florina, buses depart at 3pm on Monday, Wednesday and Friday for Agios Germanos ( 4.40, 1½ hours), returning to Florina immediately. Psarades Ψαράδες pop 158 Situated on a gusty promontory at the southern end of Lake Megali Prespa, Psarades is a lovely, slightly disoriented village of old stone houses, with a friendly, mostly elderly Macedonian population. It s also the last Greek village before the aquaeous trinational border, demarcated by a buoy. Colourful caïques line Psarades lakefront, where unique, endemic miniature cows spar in the grass. The village s upper streets (on the right-hand side of the main square) are totally authentic, filled with stone houses, jutting wood beams and drying blankets. You ll hear the Macedonian language spoken widely here. In Psarades, as elsewhere in Greek Prespa, carp is served in fillets. ORIENTATION & INFORMATION The road into Psarades ends at a lakefront carpark. Past this carpark, a small square hosts a taverna and a few shops, restaurants and domatia. The village s houses are in the upper streets to the right. There is a cardphone and all Greek mobile phone networks work here. SIGHTS A boat trip on Megali Prespa to the south side of the lake s three askitiria (hermitages), only approachable by water, is highly recommended. The first, 13th-century Metamorfosi, has scant remnants of its original rich painting, and two sections from the woodcarved votive screen (temblon), the rest being in the Florina museum. The second hermitage, Mikri Analipsi, dates from the 15th century, as does the rock Church of Panagia Eleousa, tucked above a ravine. Climb the long staircase to see wonderful frescoes and views of the lake and Albania on the opposite shore. Your captain will also point out more religious rock paintings opposite Psarades, Panagia Vlahernitisa ( ) and Panagia Dexiokratousa (1373). Organise the trip with a village fisherman, if one hasn t already approached you. You can negotiate, but expect to pay about 10 for a short tour to the rock paintings and one of the askitiria, or 12 for the full tour, with at least four people per boat. If you re solo, hope for 20. In Psarades itself stands the Church of Kimisis Theotokou (1893), adorned with the double-headed eagle of Byzantium. An inscription refers to the village by its previous, Macedonian-language name, Nivitsi. SLEEPING & EATING Book ahead in summer. Rooms Arhondiko (% ; s/d 30/40; p) Right on the lakefront, friendly owner Eleftheria offers clean, breezy rooms with balconies overlooking the water. To Hagiati (s/d 30/40) This restored little stone house with comfortable, traditional-style rooms is visible by its sign on the right when entering the village. Five tavernas line Psarades elevated waterfront, all excellent. Along with lake fish, these tavernas serve the local fasoladha speciality. Akrolimnia (% ; mains 5-7), run by the owners of Rooms Arhondiko, does tasty fried trout or carp and draught wine. GETTING THERE & AWAY Rent a car in Florina or Kastoria; otherwise, three weekly buses go from Florina to Agios Germanos. Only the Wednesday bus continues to Psarades ( 5.80); on the other days, take a taxi (% , ) from either Lemos or Agios Germanos. Approximate fares from Psarades are 15 to Lemos (to pick up the bus to Florina) and 40 direct to Florina or Kastoria. Agios Ahillios Αγιος Αχίλειος Mikri Prespa s island of Agios Ahillios may be small, but it s got a big history. In the 10th century, it became the capital of Bulgar Tsar Samuel, then ruling over much of the southern Balkans, much to the irritation of the Byzantines. The grand, concave outer wall of his Basilica of Agios Ahillios stands on the island s eastern shore, with some halftoppled walls and columns, and a grand stone floor in front. The view of the basilica with the lake and mountains behind it is breathtaking, especially from the facing hill that runs across the island s spine. This hill is also good for bird-watching, though birdwatchers should also explore the island s more hidden corners further on. The island s name, Agios Ahillios, derives from that of the church, which itself derives from Samuel s invasion of Thessaly; while conquering Larissa in 983, he rather rudely borrowed the sacred relics of 4thcentury Saint Ahillios, an avid opponent of heretics who once miraculously coaxed oil to ooze from a rock to make his theological point. To celebrate his conquest, Samuel dedicated the new church to the abducted saint. To get to Agios Ahillios from Agios Germanos, take the road over the connecting strip between the two lakes and then turn immediately left; from Psarades, just keeping going straight south instead of turning onto the interlake strip. After parking, you walk across a 1km-long floating pontoon bridge to the island. Off the bridge, the signposted path going slightly left hugs the east coast and leads to the Basilica of Agios Ahillios and other church ruins beyond. Coming off the bridge, turn towards the right for the island s only shop and taverna, which rents rooms. Despite having been a medieval capital, Agios Ahillios is now sparsely inhabited, and it s full of ruined old stone houses. A summer festival is held every August, here and in other Prespes locations. During the headlining concert, inevitably featuring a big-name Greek singer, the amphitheatric basilica is magically transformed into a stage, with audiences of up to 5000 enjoying from the hill above it. KASTORIA ΚΑΣΤΟΡΙΑ pop 16,218 Cradled by the mountains of Grammos and Vitsi, quiet Kastoria (kah-sto-rih-ah) has an idyllic setting on the forested shores of placid Lake Orestiada. The town boasts over 50 Byzantine and post-byzantine churches, and NORTHERN GREECE

162 308 MACEDONIA Kastoria Book accommodation online at MACEDONIA Kastoria 309 NORTHERN GREECE several distinguished 17th- and 18th-century arhontika (mansions), once homes of the arhons the town s leading citizens, mostly rich fur merchants. Indeed, Kastoria s celebrated tradition of fur production goes back centuries. It was sustainable until displaced Jewish furriers, attracted by the lake s many kastori (beavers), arrived; their lucrative business made the Kastoria beaver extinct by the 19th century. Nevertheless, the reputation remains, and Kastoria s furriers (now working with fur imported from North America and Scandinavia) are busy beavers indeed. Huge fur warehouses line the entry road, while most shops sell furs. The annual International Fur Exhibition draws big crowds. KASTORIA A To Airport (10km); Kozani (78km) 1 23 Grammou 4 Ath Diakou 2 Kyknou Pipineli 25 Martiou Dragoumi Lake Orestiada To Prespa Lakes (21km); Florina (50km) 28 Oktovriou 3 Metaxa 3 Septemvriou Dikastiriou Ermou Orestion 11 Noemvriou Ioustinianou Davaki 5 Keletrou Leof Megalou Alexandrou B Lake Orestiada 7 Varda Makedonomahon 17 Papareska Mitropoleos Merarhias Pavlou Mela Manolaki Orientation The bus station is one block inland from the lake s southern side, on Athanasiou Diakou, where a park, the main taxi rank and a pay car park stand. Most services are at Kastoria s western end. The evocative old town with its arhontika and churches is on the eastern hill. Information Credit Bank (Grammou) Has ATMs. Municipal tourist office (%/fax ; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri) Brochures, maps and information. Located in the lakeside park. National Bank of Greece (11 Noemvriou) Has ATMs. Police (% ; Grammou) Near the bus station. INFORMATION Credit Bank... 1 A2 Municipal Tourist Office... 2 A2 National Bank of Greece... 3 A1 Police Station... 4 A2 Post Office... 5 A2 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Basara Mansion... 6 C4 Boat Cruises... 7 B1 Byzantine Museum... 8 C3 Emmanouil Mansion... 9 C4 Kastorian Museum of Folklore D4 Natzi Mansion C4 Papaterpou Mansion B4 Papia Mansion C4 Hristopoulou Agiou Athanasiou Dexamenis Omonias Aidistras 22 Karavangeli Kosma C Leoforos Nikis 14 Valala Olymbou Maleng anou Papakonstandinou Agiou Vizandiou Mina Orestiados Zahou Riga Fereou m miles Vitsiou Theologou Kapetan Lazou 10 Doltso Pindou D Skoutari Mansion C4 Taxiarhia of the Metropolis C4 SLEEPING Arhondiko tou Vergoula C4 Dhiston B3 Hotel Orestion A2 Katerina Suites B3 EATING Doltso C4 Lithos C4 Mantziaris Restaurant C3 TRANSPORT Bus Station A2 Olympic Airlines A2 Taxi Stand A2 Paleologou Ifestou Lakeside Walk Post office (Leoforos Megalou Alexandrou) Official website of the Nestorio River Festival of Greek music (see boxed text, below ) Sights & Activities Many of Kastoria s Byzantine churches were originally chapels attached to arhontika. Most are locked; find a caretaker to enter. External frescoes are visible, however, at some churches, such as Taxiarhia of the Metropolis ( Pavlou Mela), south of Omonias, with its 13th-century fresco of the Madonna and Child above the entrance. It also contains the sacrosanct tomb of Pavlos Melas, the main Greek military leader associated with the Macedonian Struggle (Makedonomahos). The Museum of the Macedonian Struggle in Thessaloniki presents his exploits (see boxed text, p278 ). The Byzantine Museum (% ; Dexamenis; admission free; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) houses outstanding icons from Kastoria s churches. Most surviving arhontika are in Doltso, southern Kastoria. The most important are the Emmanouil, Basara, Natzi, Skoutari, Papia and Papaterpou mansions; they re named after the families that inhabited them. They re generally closed, but you can admire their often startling architecture from outside. One nice arhontika is now the must-see Kastorian Museum of Folklore (% ; Kapetan Lazou; adult 1; h8.30am-3pm, closed Mon). This 530-year-old house, formerly belonging to the wealthy Nerantzis Aïvazis family, is sumptuously furnished, and displays ornaments, kitchen utensils and tools. Noon and evening boat cruises ( 3.50, 1¼ hours) on Lake Orestiada start at the northside Psaradika Quay. Sleeping Kastoria mostly accommodates visiting furtraders and Greek weekenders. Prices are thus high, but negotiable. Hotel Orestion (% ; Davaki 1; s/d 45/65; a) This wellrenovated business hotel has sleek modern rooms and the expected amenities. There are deep couches and a tucked-away bar in the lounge. Dhiston (% ; fax ; Leoforos Megalou Alexandrou 91; d/tr 50/60) Upstairs from one of Kastoria s oldest cafés, these spacious RIVER MADNESS You won t miss the sea if you re inland in Northern Greece during summer there s just too much river madness. Billed as the biggest festival of Greek music anywhere, the Nestorio River Festival has been rockin the otherwise quiet Nestorio River, set in mountain woodlands near Kastoria, for 30 years. It s grown rapidly in recent years, now boasting a six-day line-up of prolific singers and ambient DJs, who serenade around 10,000 young people, many camping on the river. Along with the music, fun distractions include paintball, archery, sports and a modern art tent. In 2007, tickets cost 35 for the full six days, and 10 to 15 for one day, depending on the acts. The river party is usually held in late July, extending into August. The festival website ( lists the scheduled performances, camping and hotel accommodation options, and ticket vendors; in Thessaloniki, try Ticket House (% ; cnr Ethnikis Amynis & Tsimiski). During the festival, KTEL Kastoria runs special buses to Nestorio. There s organised, full-service camping, plus guesthouses; call the festival organisers, who will happily book you a room. A second summer festival, over on the northeastern Thracian plain near Kastanies, takes place for four days each July on the River Ardas (the dates of the two festivals don t conflict). The Ardas River Festival (% ; Municipality of Vryssa) also attracts top Greek singers, Turkish and Bulgarian groups, and DJs both Greek and foreign. Although smaller, this 14-yearold festival also draws several thousand young people from Northern Greece and neighbouring Balkan countries. Along with music, there s beach volleyball, minisoccer, motocross, theatrical performances and water-park trips. The Ardas River Festival website gives details in Greek and English about tickets, rules, performances and accommodation options in Kastanies and nearby Orestiada. If you camp, get a tent with good netting; the mosquitos are said to be fierce. NORTHERN GREECE

163 310 THRACE History THRACE 311 NORTHERN GREECE suites have great lake views. The manager, who speaks French and English, can provide maps and local information. Katerina Suites (% ; Leoforos Megalou Alexandrou 127; s/d 50/60) A good choice for groups, these four suites with lake views can accommodate up to five people each. Suites are clean, modern and spacious; book ahead. Arhondiko tou Vergoula (% ; sfinas@otenet.gr; Aidistras 14; d/tr incl breakfast 50/70) This restored 150-year-old mansion in a quiet quarter has lovely lake views, and is decorated with pieces from the owners Asian adventures, giving it an exotic feel. Rooms are breezy and well maintained. It also has a cosy breakfast/dinner salon. Eating Mantziaris Restaurant (% ; Valala 8; mains ) Unpretentious Mantziaris serves prepared dishes (mayirefta) and made-to-order grills. Doltso (% ; Doltso; mains 6-9; p) Housed in a rather imposing restored arhontika, Doltso has a primarily standard menu, though the house speciality, meatballs in makalo sauce (onion, garlic, flour and tomato-based), is unusual and excellent. Lithos (% ; Orestiados 51; mains 6-10; p) The traditional wood-and-stone décor here matches the hearty taverna fare; the few innovations include Lithos aubergines (herblaced fried mushrooms). Getting There & Away AIR Kastoria s Aristotelis airport (% ), 10km south, offers flights to Athens ( 77, four weekly). Olympic Airlines (% ; Leoforos Megalou Alexandrou 15) has a central office. BUS From Kastoria s bus station (% ) buses serve Thessaloniki ( 15.10, four hours, six daily), Ioannina ( 16.30, three hours, two daily), Athens ( 41.60, nine hours, two daily), and Veria ( 10.30, two hours, two daily). For Florina ( 3.20, 30 minutes, eight daily), take a bus to Amynteo and wait for a connecting bus. TA X I For taxis, dial % THRACE ΘΡΑΚΗ pop 363,300 / area 6129 sq km Framed by leafy mountains in the north and west, a winding river in the east, and a long Aegean Sea coast in the south, Thrace (thraaa-kih) is one of Greece s most striking but least-visited areas, a diverse hinterland of marshes and forests concealing rare birds, an ancient dominion coloured by sunflowers, tobacco and wheat on vast plains where bulls stamp in the dust. Thrace is indeed an earthy place, and agriculture has always dominated. The relative lack of tourism has preserved its character, one made even more unique by its Turkish minority, with its own traditions of language, culture and cooking dating back to Ottoman times. The landscape is dotted with mosque minarets and little villages of Turkish-style, red-roofed houses, while the traditional sweet shops are among Greece s best. Thrace may be a hinterland, but as Greece s only land border with Turkey, it s a very strategic one. Around 30,000 Greek soldiers are regularly stationed there. However, the only Greek warriors you will see are the ones socialising in cafés along with university students called up to serve at various far-flung faculties. Since there s still little tourism, local communities appreciate the economic boost these twin armies provide. History Thrace s ancient history is shrouded in myth. The mystery religion of its warlike tribes, known as the cult of the Great Gods, began influencing Greek pagan religion after 1000 BC. At the Thracians supreme temple on Samothraki, famous rulers of ancient Macedon, Rome and Egypt were initiated into the cult. The secret rituals associated with Orpheus, the mythical, tragic Thracian father of music, also captivated society. During the 7th century BC, powerful Greek city-states conquered the Thracian coast, and the Persians soon after. Athens took over after defeating Persia at the Battle of Plataea, but was herself ousted by Philip II of Macedon in 346 BC. With the 4th-century-AD division of the Roman Empire into western and eastern halves, Thrace, on the Via Egnatia trade route, became strategically significant km 0 20 miles THRACE To Haskovo (77km); Plovdiv (150km) To Haskovo (42km); Stara Zagora (99km) To Plovdiv (77km) Ormenio (240km) To Îstanbul Edirne E80 Petrota Dikea Pendalofos Ardas Kastanies Kard³ali Plati Smoljan Fylakio See Macedonia Map (p273) Valtos Lepti Orestiada Mikri Doxipara Mikri Doxipara Ladi Metaxades Erythropotamos B U L G A R I A MACEDONIA E85 Thermes R Pythio Medousa hodopi Didymotiho To Drama (49km); Serres (118km) Mikro Derio Fandaros (970m) Mt Koula (1827m) Evros Kotani Melivia Mandra Roussa s n Pyrovolitis (815m) Pomakohoria Mountains Ehinos Sidiro Goniko Rhod Mountai opi Stavroupoli Megalo Derio Mt Papikio (1460m) Soufli Filiouri Komiatos Xanthi Dadia Gratini Polyantho Sounio Komotini Nestos T U R K E Y Via Egnatia Dadia Forest Reserve Egiros Lake Vistonida Leptokarya To Kavala (29km); Thessaloniki (160km) Esymi Lagos Adriani Hrysoupoli E85 Mandra E90 Xilagani Fanari Kipi Via Egnatia Paralia Mangana (250km) To Îstanbul E90 E90 Feres Evros Delta Visitor Centre Maronia Keramoti Loutra Alexandroupoli T H R A C I A N Thasos Strait To Kavala (20km) Evros Evros Delta To Limnos (120km); Lesvos (209km); Kos (630km); Rhodes (723km) (Hydrofoil during summer only) S E A Limenas Skala Prinou To Samothraki (61km) Thasos NORTHERN GREECE

164 312 THRACE Xanthi Book accommodation online at THRACE Xanthi 313 NORTHERN GREECE Eastern Thrace was called the breadbasket of Constantinople, an allusion to its significant wheat production. Thrace was also a vital defence for the Byzantine capital. However, its flatness also made Thrace easy pickings for marauding Goths, Huns, Vandals, Bulgars, Pechenegs, Cumans and even poorly behaved Latin Crusaders. Indeed, only the Ottoman Turks, who invaded in the mid-14th century, were able to enforce extended periods of peace and quiet. Thrace s turbulent past was reawoken in the late 19th century. From the Russo-Turkish War of 1877, the Balkan Wars of and the First World War up to the failed Greek invasion of Asia Minor in 1922, the territory changed hands frequently. The ancient Greek concept of hubris explains, as well as anything else, why the region s modern borders exist as they do; if not for various bombastic decisions, any of the three countries sharing Thrace could own more of it than they now do. What really sets Thrace apart is its Turkish minority. Along with the Greeks of Constantinople and Imvros (Gökçeada) and Tenedos (Bozcaada) islands, these Turks were exempt during the 1923 population exchanges mandated by the Lausanne Treaty. However, while the Greek population in Turkey has dwindled, the Turkish one in Greek Thrace is flourishing. XANTHI ΞΑΝΘΗ pop 45,118 Don t be alarmed by the odd-coloured new apartments springing up like mushrooms on the outskirts of Xanthi, the first Thracian city you reach when coming from Macedonia; it s actually a lovely town, boasting an old quarter of traditional Ottoman houses set on steep, winding streets, and home to an intriguing minority Muslim population made up of Turks and Pomaks. Once wealthy for its tobacco industry, Xanthi is marked by the former mansions of tobacco barons, and that old Thracian regality survives in the stylish restaurants and cafés found in what is now a university town sustained by tobacco and other agricultural exploits. Although definitely still a backwater for most, Xanthi s stature has been increased by the construction of the Egnatia Odos, which runs past it. In addition to being the gateway to eastern Thrace, Xanthi is close to the Macedonian port towns of Keramoti and Kavala, which have ferries to Thasos, Samothraki and other islands. Solitude-seekers will be glad to know that just north of Xanthi are the rippling Rhodopi Mountains, a little-visited but beautiful area filled with deep forests and unique mountain villages great for off-the-beatentrack adventures. Orientation & Information The bus and train stations are on Xanthi s south side, the former 800m southeast of the main square ( Dimokratias), and the latter 2km south of this square. Dimokritou (later, Karaoli) leads to Dimokratias from the bus station, as does 28 Oktovriou, from the train station. North of Dimokratias is the Old Town, set on a hill crowned by a shaded grotto of pines, which is good for picnicking. Banks with ATMs, and most restaurants and shops, are around Dimokratias and nearby Antiko. Newsstand ( Dimokratias) Sells foreign newspapers and magazines. Police (% ; cnr Nestou & Lykourgou Thrakis) Near the bus station. Post office (A Georgiou 16) The Web (Vasileos Konstantinou 63; internet access per hr 2.40; h24hr) Internet café off Antiko. Sights & Activities Overlooking modern Xanthi from a serene hillside setting, Old Xanthi is a collection of pastel-coloured, timber-framed houses clinging to narrow, winding lanes. There are also grand old neoclassical mansions, once belonging to wealthy tobacco merchants. This element of faded grandeur, combined with the bulbous, white-plastered bubbles on the sides of humble homes, gives the place a slightly forlorn feel. Nevertheless, the animated shouting of little boys kicking footballs livens up Old Xanthi, also home to the town s old Muslim minority, as attested to by the modern mosque and the many satellite dishes tuned to Turkish TV stations. The stately Folk Museum (Odhos Antika 5-7; admission free; h8.30am-2.30pm Wed-Fri & 10.30am-3pm Sat & Sun) stands in adjacent mansions, formerly the residences of the tobacco-millionaire Kougioumtzoglu brothers. The downstairs has been beautifully restored to create an atmosphere of 1930s life, while the original ceiling and wall paintings upstairs are lavish and imaginative. On Saturday, Xanthi s lively open market, east of Dimokratias, maintains a venerable Balkan custom, selling clothes, jewellery, and fruits and vegetables to gesticulating grandmas and other townsfolk. All Greece knows about Xanthi s winter carnival, a pre-lenten celebration that features colourful floats prepared by various local clubs, accompanied by music and masked merrymaking. For information, check the official website ( Another annual celebration, the Xanthi Old Town Festival, takes place in late August to early September and features theatre, music and art exhibits. Sleeping ohotel Paris (% ; Dimokritou 12; s/d 30/40; a) This very solid choice for budget travellers is a minute s walk from the bus. Named for the owner, not the city, the Paris is a small renovated hotel where all rooms have private bathroom, TV and telephone, plus good firm beds and the occasional large balcony. The only drawbacks are the street noise and the location, which is a bit far from downtown, though it s ideal for catching early-morning buses. The cheerful reception staff provide travel information and maps of Xanthi town and environs. Hotel Xanthippion (% ; fax ; 28 Oktovriou 212; s/d 35/45; a) It s not the most central place, being 500m south of Dimokratias, but this old stand-by has well-kept, clean rooms with minibar and TV, plus friendly and helpful owners. Hotel Dimokritos (% ; fax ; 28 Oktovriou 41; s/d 40/50; ai) Another reasonable budget option, and just 100m south of Dimokratias, the Dimokritos has clean, comfortable rooms, though they re a bit small. Rooms include the usual amenities plus a phone port internet hook-up. Z Palace (% ; Terma Georgiou Kondyli; s/d/ste 70/101/268; pas) Unexpectedly posh five-star hotels spring up in the strangest of places. With an outdoor swimming pool, a fitness room, a children s hall, a French gourmet restaurant and even a hair salon, this business hotel by the entrance to town hearkens back to the opulent days of the tobacco barons though not in its décor, which though elegant is hardly traditional. Eating & Drinking otaverna To Perasma (% ; Ikoniou 16; mezedhes 2-4, mains 5-8) When you see a restaurant well away from the Old Town that s filled with merry locals, you know you re on to something good. Located off on a side street not far from the bus station, To Perasma serves up huge portions of tasty mezedhes and Turkish-inspired Thracian delights. Try the roka salad with tomato and cucumber, oven-cooked aubergines topped with cheese (melitzanes special ), liver with wine (sykoti krasato) and spicy beef kebabs with yogurt set on fried pita strips with salsa (yiaourtlou kebab); it will set you back about 20, and feed four. Restaurant Palia Poli (% ; Hasirtzoglou 7; mains 5-9) Most of the Old Town s restaurants are more or less the same; however, the wood-and-brick Palia Poli, tucked discreetly into a side lane, is more inventive, offering unusual dishes for gastronomes like quail, roast pork with plum sauce and orange duck. Nedim (% ; Basileos Konstantinou 35) The Xanthi branch of this Komotini-based classic Turkish sweet shop has a temptingly prominent setting in the centre do give in to temptation. Café Antico (% ; Vasileos Konstantinou 86; h9am-2am) This voluminous two-level café in the centre has a relaxed, traditional flavour, with long wooden rafters, soft couches and antique implements on the walls. A glass of wine is lovely here; in winter, try one of the Antico s many hot chocolates. Getting There & Away AIR Xanthi shares Alexander the Great Airport with Kavala in Macedonia. It s some 40km southwest of Xanthi, near Hrysoupoli. Olym pic Airlines (% ; lines.com; Michael Vogdou 4) has an office near Dimokratias. BUS From the bus station (% ; Dimokritou 6) buses go to Komotini ( 4.00, 45 minutes, 14 daily), Thessaloniki ( 16, four hours, eight daily) and Athens ( 50, 10 hours, two daily). Thessaloniki buses go via Kavala ( 4.60, one hour). There are no direct buses to Alexandroupoli ( 7.40, one hour, 45 minutes); change at Komotini. Buses also serve NORTHERN GREECE

165 314 THRACE Xanthi THRACE Komotini 315 NORTHERN GREECE HOT TUBBIN WITH EUROPE S LAST OTTOMANS If you re up for a Thracian adventure involving hot mineral baths, magnificent mountains, indefinable locals and the odd roast goat, then a day trip to Xanthi s Pomakohoria is the place for you. In Greek, the name means Pomak villages, after its inhabitants, the singular Muslim Pomak minority, whose placid villages are dotted across Greece s Rhodopi Mountains between Xanthi and the Bulgarian border. A curious relic of the borderless Ottoman centuries, the Pomaks spill across the frontier created by the Rhodopi Mountains between Greece and Bulgaria. In Greece, they are fluent in all three languages Bulgarian, Turkish and Greek the bewilderment being compounded by the fact that different people will give you different answers regarding their true ethnic identity, sometimes in the same sentence. The one cohesive element, therefore, is religion; however, despite being Muslims, some Pomaks drink alcohol. Indeed, there s something beguilingly multicultural and Ottoman in the Pomaks fluid, interchangeable constellation of identities. With neighbouring Bulgaria now an EU member, the Pomakohoria has become less of a hinterland, though it s still relatively unvisited by tourists. The area s richly forested mountains thus remain tranquil, the villages authentic. Nevertheless, the Pomakohoria is also easily accessible from Xanthi, and can be visited as a day trip by car and even by bus. One such trip takes you to the hot baths in Thermes, a small village 43km (90 minutes) north of Xanthi. The bus for Thermes ( 3.70 one way) leaves at 6.30am daily, and returns to Xanthi at 3.30pm. A later bus leaves Xanthi for Thermes at 2.10pm, but then you must stay overnight in Thermes. It s a pleasant, interesting drive through the mountains from Xanthi to its neighbouring villages. Surrounded by thickly forested mountains, Thermes is especially tranquil in early morning, when the air is cool, birds are singing and the dew sparkles on the grass. Stop in for a Greek coffee and chat with the locals at the village s simple restaurant/shop, Kafe Psistaria O Kalemtzi, located on the main road beside the small Chapel of Agioi Ioakeim & Anna; further down is the village mosque. Taking a dip in the hot baths is perfect on a cool morning. There are two: the main bath, in a building opposite the church, costs money to enter; the other is outdoors and free from the restaurant, it s about 100m to the right-hand side and below the main road. The latter is fed by a bubbling high shower, and enclosed almost completely by aluminium sidings that thunder in the breeze. The baths are relaxing and therapeutic (people are treated for various medical ailments in the indoor one), so enjoy, but don t forget that since the Pomakohoria is a conservative area the baths are no place for debauchery, shouting or gleeful nudity. Hill walking is wonderful here, though there s no tourist information or marked trails. However, a 90-minute walk along the road up to the tiny, remote hamlet of Kidaris, just across from Bulgaria, offers stunning mountain views and total serenity; indeed, since the village is now essentially uninhabited, you re unlikely to see anyone along the way. To start off, cross the meadow behind the restaurant and scramble up through a short patch of foliage until you hit the road. Then turn right and follow the paved road upwards, after 90 minutes terminating at Kidaris. Descend the narrow path between the old and lovely houses to reach the centre, such as there is, though don t expect services of any kind. Continue down, however, and the brand-new Turkish-built mosque, Sariyerköy Camii, appears on a bluff overlooking Bulgarian Rhodopi. Back in Thermes, O Kalemtzi s daily lunch might include Greek salad, country bread and spitroasted lamb or goat slow-cooked on embers ( 6.50). It s as bucolic as it gets, and the restaurant has a surprisingly good assortment of Greek liqueurs. If you want to sleep in Thermes, restaurant owner Kemal Kalemtzi provides simple rooms for rent (Enikiazomena Domatia Kalemtzi Kemal; % , ; d 20) in an adjacent building, which is mostly utilised by people visiting for spa treatments in the main baths. His son, Hassan, speaks English. A visit to the mountain redoubt of Europe s last Ottomans is bound to be memorable. Pomakohoria villages like Thermes ( 3.70, 1½ hours). TRAIN Eastward-bound trains from Xanthi s train station (% ; Terma Kondyli) go to Komotini ( 1.50, one hour, seven daily) and Alexandroupoli ( 2.80, 1½ hours, seven daily). Other trains head west to Thessaloniki ( 7, four hours, seven daily), with four of them continuing on to Athens ( 22.10, 10 hours). A taxi to/from the train station costs 3 to 4. Getting Around There are no Olympic Airlines buses to Hrysoupoli; take a taxi ( 32). Alternatively, take a Kavala-bound bus to Hrysoupoli, then a taxi 12km to the airport. KOMOTINI ΚΟΜΟΤΗΝΗ pop 46,586 Komotini (ko-mo-tih-nee), 52km east of Xanthi, is capital of Rhodopi prefecture and central Thrace s biggest town. While it s often disparaged as dull, Komotini actually has a surprisingly rich assortment of intriguing museums and historic sites; unsurprisingly, considering the large and active student body, it also has a vibrant nightlife. Although few tourists visit Komotini, it offers enough to keep you busy for at least a couple of days. Among other things, the young Greek students who fill the cafés of the main square ( Irinis) dilute the visibility of the town s Muslim presence; roughly half of Komotini s population is Greek and half is Turkish the largest percentage of Turks in any major Greek town. While the two cohabit the town amicably enough, they do generally live separate lives. The main attractions of Komotini, built in the 4th century AD, stem from this mixed heritage, comprising Byzantine churches, Ottoman mosques and neoclassical mansions. So explore Komotini s street markets and characteristic old quarters, indulge in Turkish sweets and Greek bouzouki life and enjoy an authentic Thracian town in all its dusty splendour. Orientation & Information Sprawling Komotini can be confusing at first, but you ll soon figure it out. The furthest arrival point, the train station, is 1km southwest of the centre on Panagi Tsaldari. The bus station is much closer, only a five-minute walk north-northeast to the oblong Irinis, centre of Komotini s little universe. This square is hard to miss, and not only because of the unexpected playground in the form of a pirate ship that stands in the middle of it; most ATMs, hotels, eateries and cafés are close by too. The main attractions are within walking distance of this square. Explorer Net Store (% ; Nikolaou Zoidi 52; per hr 2; h24hr) A good central internet café. Hospital (% ; Sismanoglou 45) Ninehundred metres southeast of Irinis. Police (% ) Sights Sparse remains of Komotini s Byzantine Fortress, built in the 4th century AD by Emperor Theodosius, lie just off Irinis. The fortress originally had 16 towers, though only the ruins of one survive. Near it is the Church of the Assumption of Mary (Ekklisia Kimisis Theotokou), built in 1800 on the site of an earlier Byzantine shrine. The church contains 16thcentury icons and wood-carvings. Finds from Thracian archaeological sites are presented with aplomb at the classy archaeological museum (% ; Simeonidi 4; admission free; h8.30am-5pm). The collection, accompanied by informative wall text in English detailing the history of ancient Thrace, contains Roman coins, clay figurines, delicate gold wreaths and Byzantine glazed ceramics, among other items. Visit here to get background on places of historical interest elsewhere in Thrace. The helpful staff will guide you and they provide a detailed map with the major archaeological sites in Thrace and Eastern Macedonia. Very valuable post-byzantine icons are displayed at the Ecclesiastic Museum (% ; Xenofontos 8; admission 3; h10.30am-1.30pm Tue-Sun & 5-8pm Wed-Fri), also called Imaret. The museum occupies Komotini s most unique building, an early Ottoman almshouse (ptohokomeio in Greek) set in an enclosed courtyard. The structure s brickwork and design are reminiscent of a Byzantine church; indeed, it was built around 1363 by Gazi Ervinoz Bey, the Ottoman conqueror of Byzantine Komotini. The icons are marvellous and well laid out, with occasional surprises like 500-year-old printed gospels, silver ceremonial crosses, gold embroidery and 18th-century Hebrew scrolls. Just behind Irinis begins Komotini s Turkish quarter, a relaxing place lined NORTHERN GREECE

166 316 THRACE Alexandroupoli Book accommodation online at THRACE Alexandroupoli 317 NORTHERN GREECE with quaint old houses, barber shops and tea-houses. Its sights include the Clock Tower (Orologio), built in 1884, and mosques such as Yeni Camii ( New Mosque in Turkish) and Eski Camii. The latter was built in 1608 during Ottoman rule and, though it now has flowers growing out of its roof, still operates. Sleeping Komotini s hotels cater to a business clientele, so there are no miracles on the budget accommodation front. However, midrange hotels are classy and close to the action. Democritos Hotel (% ; fax ; Vizynou 8; s/d 37/45; a) Budget purists will soldier on to the Democritos. It has a fairly central location, though there s considerable street noise and rooms are small and musty. Orpheus Hotel (% ; orfhotel@otenet.gr; Parassiou 1; s/d/t 37/47/53; a) With its prominent location at the plateia s entrance and big windows, you can t miss the Orpheus. The hotel has nicely restored and soundproofed modern rooms. Management is welcoming and friendly. Hotel Astoria (% ; Irinis 28; d 50; a) More elegant than the Orpheus, but easier to miss, the Astoria is concealed by the square s side cafés. It offers modern rooms with attractive, understated décor and amenities, plus small balconies overlooking the lively square. Eating & Drinking onedim (% ; cnr Leoforosoros Orfeos & Syntagmatos Kriton; sweets ) This emporium of traditional sweets has been serving perhaps the best baklava this side of İstanbul since Try the saray kataïfi, a delicate golden treat of the Ottoman palace, and samali, a sweet cake with almonds that s flavoured by aromatic mastic from Chios. There are 35 kinds of traditional sweets, none having quite the visual effect of the monstrous soutzouk loukoumi thick Turkish Delight dusted with confectioner s sugar and in the shape of a giant, curling sausage. Ta Aderfia (% ; Orfeos 33; mains 5-7) An unassuming, old-school taverna just west of the square, Ta Aderfia is especially good at lunch, when over 30 kinds of mayirefta are on offer; dinners are good too but the selection narrows. Ydrohoos (% ; Papaflesa 2; mains 5-8) This taverna on Irinis northwest side serves hearty portions of mayirefta and grilled meats. Komotini s cafés and bars line Irinis; Café Bel Air ( Irinis 55; h10am-3am) is a student favourite. For Greek nightlife in all its scantily dressed licentiousness, head to the Ihodromio (Parasiou 4; h9pm-4am), a loud bouzoukia (nightclub where bouzouki is played) where groups of students enjoy mezedhes, lusty dancing and some seriously overpriced cocktails. Getting There & Away BUS From Komotini s bus station (% ) buses serve Xanthi ( 4, 45 minutes, nine daily) and Alexandroupoli ( 5.80, 70 minutes, nine daily). Going west, buses reach Kavala ( 8.20, 1½ hours), Thessaloniki ( 20, 4½ hours, eight daily) and Athens ( 55, 11 hours, two daily). TRAIN From the train station (% ) six trains daily go east to Alexandroupoli ( 1.90, one hour) and seven go west to Thessaloniki ( 8.20, 4½ hours), via Xanthi ( 1.50, 30 minutes). A train to İstanbul via Pythio leaves every day at 11.30am ( 38.50, 16 hours). Getting Around Komotini sprawls, but is fine for walking. There are taxis (% ) and Evros Car Rental (% ; evroscar@hol.gr; Tountzas 1) rents cars ( 30) and Jeeps ( 60). ALEXANDROUPOLI ΑΛΕΞΑΝΔΡΟΥΠΟΛΗ pop 49,176 The appealing port city of Alexandroupoli (ah-lex-an-dhroo-po-lih) is eastern Thrace s largest town and the axis of local travel in four directions. Everyone going to Turkey or Bulgaria passes through Alexandroupoli, and in summer it gets crowded with tourists waiting for ferries to Samothraki and other northeast Aegean islands. However, Alexandroupoli is worth closer examination, having as it does two marvellous museums, a pretty if somewhat kitsch lighthouse, good seafood restaurants and, with its population of students and hale young soldiers, elementary nightlife. Part of the Greek state since 1920, Alexandroupoli was occupied by the Bulgarians from 1912 to 1914, and again during WWII. Today, this coveted prize near the Via Egnatia east west highway is poised to reassert its strategic role, with the completion (expected by end of 2010) of a major oil pipeline starting in Burgas, on Bulgaria s Black Sea coast something that raises concerns about its proximity to nearby forests and wetlands (see boxed text, p320 ) Orientation Alexandroupoli s grid system of streets, created by Russia in 1878 during the Russo- Turkish Wars, is simple. The main streets run east west, parallel with the waterfront, the eastern end of which is called Karaoli Dimitriou, the western, Megalou Alexandrou. The town s two main squares are Eleftherias and Polytehniou, both one block north of Karaoli Dimitriou. The train station is on the waterfront south of Eleftherias, next to the local bus station. They are 100m east of the port, where boats leave for Samothraki and other islands. The main bus station is at Eleftheriou Venizelou 36, five blocks inland. ALEXANDROUPOLI To Camping Alexandroupolis (2km); Makri (11km); Komotini (53km) Kritis Ellis 24 Riga Fercou Moshonision Harilaou Trikoupi Ethnikis Andistasis Paleolougou Zarifi 18 Komninon Mitropolitou Kaviri Ionos Dragoumi Psaron 8 1 Ermou Eleftheriou Venizelou Souliou Mesolongiou Megalou Alexandrou INFORMATION Internet Station Meganet... 1 B2 Kassapidis Exchange... 2 C1 Kendro Typou... 3 B2 Municipal Tourist Information... 4 B2 National Bank of Greece... 5 C1 National Bank of Greece ATM... 6 C1 Port Police... 7 C2 Post Office... 8 B2 Tourist Police... 9 B2 Paleologou Kanari Information All major banks have ATMs along Leoforos Dimokratias. Internet Station Meganet (% ; cnr Dikastirion & Psaron; per hr 2.40; h24hr) Kassapidis Exchange (% ; Leoforos Dimokratias 209; h8am-9.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) Changes 87 kinds of currency, including all the Balkan ones; does Western Union money transfers. Municipal Tourist Office (% ; Leoforos Dimokratias 306; h7.30am-3pm) The helpful staff at the town hall give out maps and accommodation and transport information. Port police (% ; cnr Megalou Alexandrou & Markou Botsari) Post office (cnr Nikiforou Foka & Megalou Alexandrou) Tourist police (% ; Karaïskaki 6) Sights & Activities The traditional customs of old Thrace come alive at the Ethnological Museum of Thrace (% ; 14 Maiou 63; adult 3; h10am-2pm Tue-Sun & 6-9pm Tue-Sat). Housed in a mansion built in 1899, the museum is divided into rooms, each devoted to a specific topic, ranging from traditional costumery and To Ethnological Museum of Thrace (200m) 10 Agiou Nikolaou 11 Miaouli 9 Dikastirion 25 Light House 14 Maïou Athanasiou Dhiakou 15 Markou Botsari 7 14 Bouboulinas Mazaraki Kountourioti Ekklision Polytehniou m miles To Esymi (23km) 2 Leof Dimokratias Emboriou SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Cathedral of Agios Nikolaos C1 Ecclesiastical Art Museum of Alexandroupolis...(see 10) SLEEPING Hotel Alex B2 Hotel Erika C2 Hotel Marianna D1 Hotel Mitropolis C2 EATING Bougatsa Gala C2 Nea Klimataria C2 Eleftherias 23 Malgaron 13 Train Station 22 Karaoli Dimitriou Thracian Sea To Dimokritos Airport (7km); Kipi (43km); Turkey (45km) Psarotaverna tis Kyra Dimitras C2 To Nisiotiko A2 DRINKING La Sera C2 SHOPPING Myrsini C2 TRANSPORT Bus Station B1 Ferries to Limnos, Lesvos, Kos, Rhodes & Samothraki D2 Local Bus Station C2 Olympic Airlines A3 Sever Travel B2 NORTHERN GREECE

167 318 THRACE Alexandroupoli Book accommodation online at THRACE Evros Delta 319 NORTHERN GREECE musical instruments to oil presses, a dye-room and sweet-making equipment. The accompanying texts will tell you, among other things, how many silkworms it takes to make 25g of silk and which Greek sweet is made by slamming the ingredients against a wall. If you are travelling further in Thrace, the friendly staff can outline the most interesting sites. There s a small café out back. Priceless icons, many brought by refugees from Asia Minor and Turkish Thrace, are exhibited at the Ecclesiastical Art Museum of Alexandroupoli (% ; Agiou Nikolaou; adult 3; h9am-2pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat). The museum, which also boasts early printed Greek books, is in the grounds of the Cathedral of Agios Nikolaos, which itself houses a miracle-working 13th-century icon of the Panagia Trifotissa, brought from Aenos (Enez in Turkish) on the other side of the River Evros. The story goes that by praying before the icon, villagers whose eyes had been damaged by the glare of sunlight reflected on the salt marshes around Aenos had their vision restored. Sleeping Camping Alexandroupoli (% ; fax ; Leoforos Makris; camp sites per adult/tent 5/4.50) This large camping ground, located 2km west of town, is a clean, well-run site with good facilities. Take local bus 7 from Eleftherias. ohotel Mitropolis (% ; Athanasiou Dhiakou; s/d/t 30/40/50; a) Don t be put off by the dated sign out front the Mitropolis is a clean, handsomely appointed hotel, not only the budget traveller s first choice but a good bet for anyone who wants to be close to the water and the town s best restaurants and cafés. Hotel Alex (% ; Leoforos Dimokratias 294; s/d/t 35/40/50; a) Up on the main road, this decent budget option has good though cramped rooms and the necessary amenities. Ask for a back room to minimise noise. Hotel Marianna (% ; fax ; Malgaron 11; s/d 45/60) This friendly downtown hotel has well-equipped rooms and a colourful breakfast area. Between them, hospitable owners Georgios Hrysohoidis and his Italian wife Patricia speak English, Italian, French, Spanish, German and Greek. Hotel Erika (% ; Karaoli Dimitriou 110; s/d 70/85; pai) Opposite the port, and 100m from the town s lighthouse landmark, the Erika has tasteful rooms with all mod cons and waterfront views. A buffet breakfast and free wireless internet are provided. The hotel organises tours to Dadia Forest Reserve ( p320 ) and several islands. Eating & Drinking Fish tavernas are best; Leoforos Dimokratias has bars, while cafés lines the waterfront. Bougatsa Gala (% ; Emboriou; bougatsa 2) A friendly breakfast nook of long standing, this nameless hole-in-the-wall place serves up flaky cream pies (bougatsa) as delicious as its décor is humble. Nea Klimataria (% ; Polytehniou; mains 5-8) This heavy-duty, popular place on the square is not setting records, but it does have tasty prepared dishes, good roast chicken and big salads. opsarotaverna tis Kyra Dimitras (% ; cnr Kountourioti & Dikastirion; fish ) Although Kyra (Ms) Dimitra s Armenian grandfather originally came to Alexandroupoli for railroad work in 1875, from 1915 the family business became this little blue-and-white taverna. Choose from the daily catch, set out on ice at the front; tsipoura (sea bream) is tasty and only 20 per kilo, while a plateful of crunchy koutsomoura makes for a scrumptious lunch. Come in summer, when the amiable Kyra Dimitra might bring you a plate of ripe watermelon for a complimentary dessert. To Nisiotiko (% ; Zarifi 1; fish dishes 7-12) Over on the waterfront s western side, To Nisiotiko is an upmarket fish taverna with ambience. Its hybrid architecture combines pebble stucco walls, nautical décor and cane chairs. La Sera (% ; Polytehniou; h10am-3am) This smooth bar near the water, popular with students and lit by little red candles, has cool music and even Guinness Export Stout. Shopping Myrsini (% ; Polytehniou) The shop that brings Soufli s famous handmade silk products to you, Myrsini is a family-run business with items running the gamut from silk table runners ( 15 to 100) and ornate raw silk scarves ( 20) to enormous silk spreads embellished with a Byzantine double-headed eagle and floral motifs ( 807). Owner Dimitrios Kyriazis gladly explains Soufli s tradition of silk production and the secrets of how it s done. Getting There & Away AIR Alexandroupoli s Dimokritos Airport is 7km east of town near Loutra. Olympic Airlines (% ; airlines.com; Ellis 6 & Koletti) is downtown; Aegean Airlines (% ; is at the airport. Both offer four daily flights to/from Athens ( 75, 55 minutes). Olympic also has three weekly direct flights to Siteia, Crete ( 80, 1¾ hours). BUS From Alexandroupoli s bus station (% ; Eleftheriou Venizelou 36) buses travel frequently northeast to Feres ( 2.30), Soufli ( 5, 1½ hours), Didymotiho ( 7.20, 1¾ hours) and Orestiada ( 8.70, two hours). Another bus terminates at Kipi on the Turkish border ( 3.30, three daily). One daily bus serves Athens ( 58, 12 hours), and six go to Thessaloniki ( 25.30, six hours). Buses to Kavala ( 12.90, three hours) go via Komotini ( 5.20, 70 minutes) and Xanthi ( 9.10, 1¾ hours). FERRY In summer, two or three ferries daily make the two-hour trip to Samothraki ( 11 per person, per car 45). Get tickets and departure details from the portside SAOS kiosk or from travel agencies like Sever Travel (% ; sever1@otenet.gr; Megalou Alexandrou 24). SAOS also serves Limnos once weekly ( 14.90, five hours). Alexandroupoli is connected with the Dodecanese by Agoudimos Lines. The ferry leaves Mondays at 11am, stops at Limnos, and continues via Lesvos ( 20.90, 11¼ hours), Chios ( 27.20, 15¼ hours), Samos ( 33.50, 18¾ hours), Kalymnos ( 38.50, 23¼ hours), and Kos ( 39, 24½ hours) to Rhodes ( 44, 28¾ hours). A ferry retracing this route backwards leaves Rhodes every Saturday at 11.45pm. Summer hydrofoils usually serve Samothraki, but are unpredictable; check locally. TRAIN From the train station (% ) six daily trains serve Thessaloniki ( 9.70, seven hours); one continues to Athens ( 25, 14 hours). Trains also run northeast to Dikea ( 3.80, 2½ hours, seven daily) via Pythio, Didymotiho, Orestiada and Kastanies, where there s a Turkish border crossing. Bulgaria From Alexandroupoli a daily train leaves at 5.30am for Svilengrad ( 5, four hours), with connections to Plovdiv and Sofia. Tu r k e y The OSE bus to İstanbul leaves at 8.30am ( 15, six hours) Tuesday to Sunday. A direct train with sleeper cars to İstanbul leaves nightly at 1am ( 36.60, seven hours). Two trains originating in Thessaloniki also pass through en route to İstanbul. Getting Around Only the camping ground or out-of-town sights require a bus or taxi. For the airport, take a Loutra-bound bus from Eleftherias, or a taxi (% ) for about 6. EVROS DELTA ΔΕΛΤΑ ΕΒΡΟΥ The Evros Delta, 20km southeast of Alexandroupoli, is one of Europe s most important wetlands, with some 188 sq km of birdwatching heaven comprised of coastal lakes, lagoons, interior rivers, sand dunes, swamps and reed beds. More than 330 bird varieties have been recorded, including several endangered species. More than 200,000 migrating waterfowl winter here. To go, call the Evros Delta Visitor Centre (%/fax ; evroswet@hol.gr; h8am-4pm) in Loutra. The delta s western segment is always open, though motorised transport is restricted along the southern littoral. Visiting the delta s most fascinating part, the eastern section near the Turkish border, requires a permit from the Greek police and army. Fortunately, the Visitor Centre arranges your permit for free: fax or them your name and surname (as written on your passport), the passport number and date of expiry, plus your birth date and year. Apply 12 to 14 days before you plan to go. Along with your permit, the Visitor Centre provides maps. It also conducts guided tours ( 10 per person) and organises minibus and boat trips around the delta. ALEXANDROUPOLI TO DIDYMOTIHO ΑΛΕΞΑΝΔΡΟΥΠΟΛΗ ΠΡΟΣ DIDYMOTEIXO Two routes lead from Alexandroupoli northwards to Didymotiho, the western one and the main eastern one, which hugs the Turkish border. The western route passes through NORTHERN GREECE

168 320 THRACE Alexandroupoli to Didymotiho THRACE Orestiada 321 NORTHERN GREECE PIPELINE POLITICS By the end of 2010, Greece plans to have a brand-new attraction in eastern Thrace, though hardly a touristic one; the Burgas Alexandroupoli oil pipeline, spanning some 279km from Bulgaria s Black Sea coast to Greece s northeasternmost mainland port. First conceived in 1994, the pipeline will transport up to 35 million tons of Russian and Caspian oil annually at an estimated cost of 1 billion. Although speculation had been rampant that Burgas Alexandroupoli would never happen, things seemed more solid after Russian president Vladimir Putin showed up in Athens in March 2007 for an inter-governmental signing ceremony. Greek and Bulgarian companies got a 49% share in the pipeline, while the Russians took 51%. Unusually, supporters of Burgas Alexandroupoli have cited the environment as a reason for building the pipeline: with tanker congestion in İstanbul s Bosporus Straits at an all-time high, any major collision or other accident there could be catastrophic for the city and seas. Therefore, any pipeline project that would lessen Turkey s load would seem positive. However, the Burgas Alexandroupoli pipeline just reroutes the tanker spillage problem to Greece, rather than eliminating it, and potentially threatens the Aegean islands that depend on tourism and fishing. Indeed, Alexandroupoli locals fear that even mention of the word oil pipeline will cause tourists to flee. In Bulgaria s Black Sea municipality of Sozopol, itself now becoming a popular tourist destination, like-minded locals have held vociferous public protests against the pipeline. However, Greeks in Alexandroupoli and throughout the Evros region also see the pipeline positively as a job-providing investment that might also buy protection from their potentially hostile eastern neighbour; with politically influential energy multinationals owning a stake in the pipeline, the thinking goes, Turkey would have to think twice before invading Evros. Simultaneous pledges by the Greek Cypriot government to drill for offshore oil have attracted the interest of such companies and also angered Turkey, as the Eastern Aegean Great Game intensifies. Greek politicians are clearly revelling in their newfound importance. At the March 2007 signing ceremony, Minister of Foreign Affairs Dora Bakoyanni enthused that the pipeline will strengthen the international positive role of our country in a sector of international diplomacy energy diplomacy that is of ever-increasing importance in the international strategic environment. Only time will tell whether the natural environment, on the other hand, could fall victim to Greece s grandiose ambitions of becoming a player in the global energy game. tranquil, rarely visited villages like Esymi, Megalo Derio and Mikro Derio; some 10km west of the latter is the village of Roussa, site of megalithic Thracian tombs dating from the 9th century BC and decorated with mysterious rock carvings. The eastern road winds together with the train line and the River Evros along the Turkish border. This part of Thrace is all rolling hills, punctuated by storks nests on phone poles and great fields of wheat and sunflowers. Although the occasional sign prohibits photography, there s no danger and little sight of the (obviously well-concealed) military. All of the following destinations are on the main bus and train routes and have many connections daily to and from Alexandroupoli. The first interesting village, following the river route, is Feres, 29km northeast of Alexandroupoli, which boasts Thrace s most impressive Byzantine sacred site, the Church of Panagia Kosmosotira. Built by Byzantine royal Isaac Komnenos in 1152 as a miniature of Constantinople s great Agia Sofia, it survives miraculously intact and is signposted. Bird-watchers will love the Dadia Forest Reserve, home to 36 of the 38 known species of European raptors (birds of prey), some quite rare. To get there, continue north from Feres for 30km, then take the signposted turnoff west 7km. The park includes a protected inner zone (7290 hectares) and a buffer zone (35,170 hectares). Dadia is on one of Europe s two main bird migration routes. Visit either in May, before migration begins, or in autumn, when baby vultures hop curiously out of their nests. The helpful Ecotourist Centre (% ; dadia@otenet.gr; h10am-4pm Dec-Jan, 9am-7pm Mar-May & Sep-Nov, 8.30am-8.30pm Jun-Aug) has detailed bilingual wall displays, an educational film about the forest and even minibus service to a wellconstructed bird hide ( 3). You can also take the one-hour hike up a trail, marked orange on the way up and yellow coming down, for free. The hide offers binoculars, a telescope and a tripod for photography buffs. For overnights try the Ecotourist Hostel of Dadia (% ; dadia@otenet.gr; s/d/t 30/43/50), next to the Ecotourist Centre. There s a café next door. In Dadia village, 1km from the Ecotourist Centre, the Traditional Family Taverna (% ; mains 4-6) near the church serves Greek fare. For real forest ambience, however, drive to Katranzides (% ; mains ) 8km inside the forest s outer zone. Take the right-hand road upon entering Dadia to get there. It s popular on weekends, but may not be otherwise busy, so call in advance. Soufli, some 38km north of Alexandroupoli, boasts attractive Turkish wattle-and-daub houses, but is best known for silk. The area s prevalence of mulberry trees, upon which silkworms feed, made it a centre for the silk industry since the time of Alexander the Great. In the past century, however, the industry suffered several blows; the creation of modern Turkey in 1923 cut some farmers off from their former lands and, more recently, numerous mulberry trees have been chopped down to make way for crops. Nevertheless, small-scale production continues. Although Soufli s unique silk museum (% ; Eleftheriou Venizelou 73) remained closed at time of writing, it may have reopened by the time you get there. For atmospheric accommodation try Koukouli Inn (% ; fax ; Olorou 14; s/d incl breakfast 45/55), built in 1850 for harvesting and screening silkworm cocoons. Located opposite the town hall, it has clean, inviting rooms. Soufli also has ATMs. After Soufli, next up is rough-and-tumble Didymotiho (dih-dih-mo-tih-ho), a military outpost and site of the area s most significant historical ruins. Aside from them, however, Didymotiho is fairly sleepy, as opposed to a place where you would want to sleep, and thus makes for a better day trip or drive-by than an overnight stay. Didymotiho has ATM-equipped banks, pharmacies and other services. The town s name derives from its oncemagnificent double walls (didymo twin, tihos wall ), the remains of which are still the most impressive site in its upper town. From the time it was founded in the late 8th century as a hinterland fort guarding entry to Constantinople, Didymotiho was an important Byzantine town. Numerous eminent figures were born here, and in 1341 Byzantine Emperor John Kantakouzenis was crowned here. When the Turks took it in 1361, Didymotiho briefly became the capital of Murad I, before he relocated it in 1365 to Adrianople (modern Edirne, Turkey). The sultan first left his mark, however, with a huge, pyramid-roofed mosque, finished in 1368 by his son Bayezit, sometimes called Bayezit s Mosque. It was the first in Europe, and the biggest that the Ottomans would ever build there. You can t enter, as the structure lies in forlorn disrepair, its minaret topless, windows smashed and walls crumbling. A steep walk up the hill from the main square, where the mosque is located, brings you past Ottoman-style timber-framed houses and into the upper town. Near the Church of Agios Athanasios are well-preserved sections of the town s Byzantine walls and strange catacomb-like side structures. If you re thirsty, stop for lemonade at the iconic Café Zamantha, which has impressive views over Didymotiho s traditional roofs as far as the rivers. Ask kindly old Leftheris, the owner, to point out the symbol of Byzantine noble Tarhaniotis, engraved in the wall above his café s garden. From Didymotiho the main road continues 20km to Orestiada, Evros last major town. However, if you want to hug the river (or are travelling by train), it s around 35km between the two. ORESTIADA ΟΡΕΣΤΙΑΔΑ pop 20,000 If you re looking for a last bout of Hellenism before crossing into Bulgaria or Turkey, or are just intrigued to see what lies at the end of the road, then Orestiada is the place to go. Although it has none of the birds of Dadia and none of the historical attractions of Didymotiho, Orestiada is nevertheless the largest town north of Alexandroupoli, a place with reasonable amounts of shopping, social life and services. It makes a good base for day trips to unique and totally unvisited villages, and is also a jumping-off point for trips to Bulgarian Thrace or nearby Edirne in Turkey. The town is also a good base from which to visit the Ardas River Festival (% ; held over four days in late July near Kastanies (see boxed text, p309 ). NORTHERN GREECE

169 322 THRACE Orestiada Book accommodation online at EPIROS History 323 NORTHERN GREECE Orestiada was built in 1923, during the population exchanges between Greece and Turkey. Unlike most of the ragged refugees, however, the dignified residents of the new Orestiada chose to come as a group from their homes on the Turkish side of the river and resettle in an organised way. Like other border towns, Orestiada has a robust military presence, though actual uniformed soldiers are much less noticeable to tourists than are the suited visiting businessmen on army-related contracts. Orientation & Information From the train station walk uphill on Vasileos Konstantinou; at the intersection with Anthanasiou Pantazidou, you face the central square. Turn left on Pantazidou for the Hotel Elektra, cafés, restaurants and post office; turn right for the tourist information and internet café. Several ATM-equipped banks are around the main square. Shops are on Konstantinopoleos, parallel with Pantazidou on the square s opposite side. The bus station is also on this side of the square; follow Vasileos Konstantinou two blocks and turn right on Adrianoupoleos. Hatzigiannis Tours (% ; cnr Konstantinoupoleos & Emmanouel Riga) Sells aeroplane, boat and train tickets. Post office (% ; Athanasiou Pantazidou) Web (% ; Athanasiou Pantazidou 64; per hr 2; h24hr) A large internet café opposite the tourist information office. Sights & Activities The humble Folk Museum (% ; Agion Theodoron 87; h11am-1pm & 7-9pm Tue-Sat) has traditional Thracian furnishings and costumes, old weaponry and, intriguingly, a fragment from the original Lausanne Treaty, which stipulated the Greek-Turkish population exchange. The Metropolitan Church of the Saints Theodoros, located west of the central plateia on Konstantinopoleos and Orfeas, is an old and unusual red-brick structure that contains some nice icons. Almost 3km from Orestiada on the Didymotiho road, Cataract Water Park (% ) has various pools and rides for keeping cool in summer and Mojito, a popular disco on summer nights. Sleeping & Eating ohotel Elektra (% ; electra.gr; Athanasiou Pantazidou 52; s/d 38/50; a) The bright B-class Elektra is a friendly and wellkept hotel in a restored neoclassical mansion. The lobby décor may be a bit gauche, but considering the cheap attic singles ( 32), the Elektra offers the best combination of value and upkeep available. Helpful owner Ismini Diamanti can assist with local trip-planning. Hotel Alexandros (% ; fax ; Vasileos Konstantinou 10; s/d/t 45/58/65; a) Just a tad fancier than the Elektra but pricier too, the Alexandros has good-sized balconies and airy rooms near the train station. For hearty meat dishes in a simple, friendly setting hit Taverna Petinos (% ; Lohagou Diamandi 3; mains 4-7). The popular Safran (% ; Vasileos Konstantinou; mains 5-7), just down from the Hotel Elektra, does more international cuisine. Drinking Orestiada s cafés line Emmanouel Riga, between Konstantinopoleos and Athanasiou Pantazidou. Popular places include Café Café, Bel Air and Social. Other cafés are on the square. There are even a bouzoukia and a nightclub or two; ask in your hotel for details. Getting There & Away From Orestiada s bus station (% ), hourly buses go to Didymotiho ( 1.60, 30 minutes), many continuing to Alexandroupoli ( 8.70, two hours). Change in Alex an droupoli for buses to Komotini, Xanthi and Thessaloniki. Buses also go northwards to Dikea ( 4.90, four daily) and the Bulgarian border at Ormenio ( 5, two daily). The Turkish border crossing at Kastanies is served five times daily ( 1.40). From the train station (% ) trains head south to Alexandroupoli ( 3.20, three hours, seven daily) via Pythio, Didymotiho, Soufli and Feres; five of them continue from Alexandroupoli west to Komotini ( 4.70, four hours, seven daily), Xanthi ( 5.60, 4½ hours, seven daily), Thessaloniki ( 12.30, 8½ hours) and Athens ( 27.40, 15 hours). Trains also go from Orestiada northwards to Dikea ( 1.20, 35 minutes, seven daily), with four continuing another 10 minutes to the border at Ormenio. The train that leaves Orestiada at 8.07am continues to Svilengrad in Bulgaria. Getting Around For local transport, catch a taxi (% ). AROUND ORESTIADA Some 18km southeast of town on the old road, which runs parallel with the River Evros and the train line, is the Byzantine castle of Pythio. Set on a tall bluff above a little village of traditional Thracian brick-andwood houses, the castle has a commanding view of the Thracian plain and the dark trees of the River Evros. Built in 1347 by Byzantine emperor John Kantakouzenos, during a turbulent period of civil wars and Turkish invasions, the castle is Thrace s best surviving example of Byzantine defensive architecture. Renovations are ongoing, so it may be closed when you visit, but nevertheless you can get near enough to appreciate the castle s grandeur. If you re hankering for pheasant, venison or wild boar, rustic Pendalofos 35km northwest of Orestiada, has a game restaurant, Evrothirama (% ; mains 7-10). Since it s open only on weekends and is well off the beaten track, ask Ismini at Orestiada s Elektra Hotel to help book. She can assist with planning west Evros day trips also. One such trip might involve driving west through Valtos to reach Mikri Doxipara, where recent excavations of a 1st-century-AD Roman tomb have unearthed five interred funerary carts with horses and harnesses. From Mikri Doxipara, turn north to Pendalofos for lunch and then up to Petrota, the last Greek village in the northwesternmost corner of Evros near the Bulgarian border. Petrota has vineyards, traditional stone houses and the last living master dyer in Thrace (inquire at the Ethnographical Museum in Alexandroupoli). The road continues eastward along the border through Ormenio and Dikea, before heading south back to Orestiada. In July, the Ardas River Festival ( p309 ) brings notable Greek singers and Greek and international DJs for four days of camping and partying on the river, near Kastanies, 19km north of Orestiada. Kastanies is also Greece s northernmost Turkish border crossing. If you re headed to Edirne (Adrianoupolis in Greek), this is your crossing; Edirne is just 9km after Kastanies. EPIROS ΗΠΕΙΡΟΣ pop 352,400 / area 9203 sq km Time moves more slowly in Epiros, preoccupied as it is with the lofty, brooding Pindos Mountains that make up its inland mass. For thousands of years, these mountains have safeguarded civilisations and confounded invaders. Part of this towering expanse, centred around the stunning 12km-long Vikos Gorge said to be the world s deepest is now a national park. The park is filled out with leafy forests, waterfalls and ice-cold mountain lakes, and surrounded by immaculate traditional villages of stone and slate, known as the Zagorohoria. Compared with Epiros mountains, the western coast is just an afterthought, though it is a lovely one with long stretches of sand punctuated by archaeological and historical sites. As with the Ionian Islands just opposite, centuries of Venetian rule have given the Epírot coast an Italian flavour, and in August voluble young Italians do indeed arrive to hit the beaches and bars of Epiros microresort, Parga, with many other Greek and international partiers. Getting to Epiros is an event in itself. The main road, whether it be from Kozani in Macedonia or from Kalambaka in Thessaly, winds up over the Pindos Mountains, except for when it cuts straight through them, inside the massive tunnels created for the Egnatia Odos cross-country highway. Indeed, while Epiros has suffered millennia of isolation due to its geography, the completion of this grand project expected by early 2009 will make getting there easier. With capital city Ioannina flourishing, and the main coastal and mountain destinations attracting more international attention, it looks like Epiros moment has finally come. History With the Dorian invasions of Greece ( BC), three main Greek-speaking tribes emerged in Epiros: the Thesproti, the Chaones and the Molossi. The last won out and savvily married their princess Olympias to the powerful King Philip II of Macedon. However, this alliance created conflict with the rising power of Rome. The most famous Molossi ruler, King Pyrrhus ( BC), NORTHERN GREECE

170 Arahthos s 324 EPIROS History EPIROS Metsovo 325 NORTHERN GREECE EPIROS To Corfu Town (30km); Italy (190km) Lefkimmi Corfu Sagiada Paxi A L B A N I A Mavromati Syvota South Kerkyra Straits Gaïos Filiates I O N I A N Molyvdoskepasti Aoös Igoumenitsa Antipaxi Church of Molyvdoskepasti Kakavia Ammoudia S E A defeated the Romans in battle at Ausculum, but at a very heavy price; the event gave birth to a concept, the Pyrrhic victory, that remains with us today. When the Roman Empire split in the 4th century AD, Epiros became the westernmost province of the Eastern (Byzantine) empire. Later, it was a vital stronghold of Hellenism Lia Vissani Kokkinia Neraïda Paramythia Parga Parakalamos Vrosina Zitsa Zotiko Kanalaki Tsepelovo Monodendri See The Zagorohoria Map (p333) Kamarina Preveza Aktion Karyes E90 Terovo Papadates Filippiada Ag Paraskevi Ganadio Mertziani Molista Bourazani Mt Smolikas Environmental Park (2637m) Hotel Bourazani Thyamis Via Egnatia Nekromanteio of Afyra Aherondas E55 Ancient Kassopi Sarandaporos Konitsa Vikos-Aoös National Park Zalongo Ioannina Perama Lake Pamvotis Dodoni Mt Tomaros (1816m) E951 Nikopolis Koronisia Aoös Eptahori The Island (To Nisi) Sirako Drosohori Pesta Agnanda Sklivani Gymnotopos Arta River Aoös Gorge Pramanda Komeno Ambracian Gulf 0 30 km 0 20 miles Aoös Lake E92 Vovousa Monolithi Pendalofos MACEDONIA Mt Vasilitsa (2249m) P i n d o M o u n Lepiana Lake Arahthos t Katara Pass Metsovo To Messolongi (85km) To Prespa Lakes (80km) THESSALY To Thessaloniki Kozani (52km); (177km) Grevena To Kalambaka (30km); Trikala (63km); Larisa (119km) To Trikala (76km) STEREA ELLADA Neapoli after Latin Crusaders overthrew the Byzantine Empire in 1204; refugees from noble Byzantine families took refuge in Epiros impenetrable mountains and established a key Byzantine successor state there. Although the empire was partially restored in 1261, stubbornly independent lords continued their infighting. In the 14th century a i n E951 s E90 See Macedonia Map (p273) the expanding Serbian empire of Stefan Dusan briefly took over. Finally, in 1430, the Ottoman Turks conquered Epiros. When they invaded Constantinople 22 years later, the phenomenon of eminent Greek refugees fleeing to Epiros mountain fastnesses was repeated. Although the Turks allowed Epiros considerable autonomy, it was not enough for Ali Pasha. In 1778, the Turks made this Albanian lord pasha of Ioannina; however, the flamboyant Ali had bigger ambitions and proceeded to seize much of Albania and western Greece before being killed by Ottoman troops in Nevertheless, Ali Pasha had continuously worn down and distracted the Turks, tacitly assisting the Greek revolutionaries in Epiros was engulfed in the Balkan Wars of , when the new state of Albania got a northern piece of it. In 1940, Mussolini s invasion of Greece was repelled in Epiros, which became a stronghold for the communist resistance fighting the brutal Nazi occupation. The communists were defeated in the Greek Civil War ( ). METSOVO ΜΕΤΣΟΒΟ pop 3195 / elev 1156m Just south of the magnificent Katara Pass, and east of the fabled Zagorohoria village region, idyllic Metsovo (met-so-vo) clings to a mountainside at 1156m. The village has an enviable existence as a tourist magnet for skiers. Traditional on the outside, luxurious on the inside, Metsovo is known for the heartfelt hospitality of its residents. These locals are mostly Vlachs, historically a nomadic sheep-herding people who speak the Arromanian language. This dialect is closely related to Romanian and ultimately derives from Latin. The Vlachs, some believe, descended from ancient Roman soldiers sent here to guard the mountain passes. The town s wealth, abundantly displayed in its churches and restored stone mansions, attests to its unique history; in Ottoman times, the canny Metsovite shepherds were given extensive privileges in return for guarding the Katara Pass (1705m), the only route across the Pindos Mountains. However, in 1795 Ali Pasha abolished Metsovo s privileges, and in 1854 Ottoman troops damaged it considerably. Luckily, many local Vlachs would soon make fortunes in commerce, industry and other non-sheep-related enterprises. Local luminaries Georgios Averof ( ) and Mihail Tositsas ( ) in particular donated heavily towards restoring Metsovo s former glory. Nowadays, the locals have turned their characteristic shrewdness towards tourism, transforming old mansions and stone cottages into boutique hotels and opening twee tourist shops, making the village perhaps a bit too precious for its own good. No matter, Metsovo is an invigorating mountain getaway with appealing traditional hotels. It boasts hearty home-cooked cuisine, good mountain-walking opportunities in summer, and skiing in winter. Orientation & Information Metsovo lies 1km below the main Kalambaka Ioannina highway. The main thoroughfare to the central square, where the bus stops, is lined with restaurants, hotels and shops. The village s lovely traditional houses are dotted around a maze of winding stone pathways. The police (% ) are on the right opposite the bus stop. The Commercial Bank, Agricultural Bank and National Bank of Greece are near the plateia; turning from it, the post office is on the right side of the main thoroughfare. Sights The restored Tositsas mansion hosts Metsovo s folk museum (% ; adult/student 3/2; h9am-1.30pm & 4-6pm Fri-Wed), where a typical wealthy 19th-century Metsovite household, with handcrafted furniture, artefacts and utensils, is recreated. Guided tours go every half-hour. It s signposted halfway up the main street. The Averof Gallery (% ; adult/student 3/2; h10am-6.30pm Wed-Mon), financed by Georgios Averof s three children, has a permanent collection of 19th- and 20th-century works by Greek painters and sculptors. Turn left at the plateia s far side; the gallery s on the right. The 14th-century Moni Agiou Nikolaou (h8.30am-1.30pm & 4-6pm), set in a gorge below Metsovo, has post-byzantine frescoes and a beautiful hand-carved wooden iconostasis. The 30-minute walk to get there is signposted from the square s west side. NORTHERN GREECE

171 326 EPIROS Ioannina Book accommodation online at EPIROS Ioannina 327 NORTHERN GREECE Activities Approaching from Kalambaka, Metsovo s ski centre (% ; h9.30am-3.45pm) is on the right-hand (north) side of the highway, just before the Metsovo turn-off. The centre has an 82-seat ski lift, two downhill runs and a 5km cross-country run, plus a nourishing taverna. Rent skis in Metsovo. Sleeping Filoxenia Domatia (% ; jsp@hol.gr; s/d 30/40) Still offering the best rates in town, and perhaps the best views, the Filoxenia has clean and comfortable domatia. It s just behind the central park area, close to the art gallery. Hotel Galaxias (% ; fax ; s/d 37/49) The closest hotel to the bus stop, the Galaxias offers large, traditionally furnished rooms (some with fireplaces). The eponymous restaurant s here too. Hotel Bitouni (% ; d/ste 50/80; pi) There s a ski-lodge feel to the family-run Bitouni, with its sauna, traditional fixtures and carved wooden coffee tables. There are 24 doubles, and seven suites; two of the latter have Jacuzzi. Internet is available. Hotel Egnatia (% ; fax ; Tositsa 19; s/d 50/60) The renovated Egnatia offers doubles and spacious studios with handsome bathrooms. The hotel s marked by its wood fixtures and friendly, knowledgeable owner, who provides info about outdoors sports and other activities. The hotel s mountain views are superb and its rates include breakfast. When approaching the central square from the main road, the hotel s on the right. Victoria Hotel (% ; d 60) The Victoria has 37 rooms with all the mods cons, including Jacuzzi and fireplaces in some. The restaurant serves local specialities, and there s an outdoor pool in summer. Best of all, however, is the staff s warm Metsovo hospitality. Find it 900m before the centre. Eating To Koutouki tou Nikola (% ; mains 7-10) This wonderful family-run restaurant just beneath the post office cooks up hearty traditional dishes, from pites (pies) to traditional roast lamb and boiled goat soup (gida vrasti). Restaurant Galaxias (% ; mains ) Despite being unassuming, this hotel restaurant is surprisingly good. Local specials include leek meatballs or spicy sausage, accompanied by the local red wine (Katoyi). The rustic scene is enhanced by a log fire in winter and an ivy-covered balcony in summer. Paradosiako (mains 8-11) Another traditional place, and especially strong on meats, the Paradosiako is located opposite the Hotel Bitouni. There are also good mezedhes and vegetarian options, though. Getting There & Away Direct buses leave for Ioannina daily at 6.30am, 10.15am, 3pm and 4.30pm ( 7, 1½ hours) and for Trikala at 8am and 2pm ( 11, 3½ hours). For a bus to Thessaloniki ( 22), walk up to the main road and wave down the bus, coming from Ioannina. IOANNINA ΙΩΑΝΝΙΝΑ pop 61,629 The capital of Epiros and the gateway to the Vikos-Aoös National Park, Ioannina (ih-oah-nih-nah or yah-nih-nah) is fast becoming one of Greece s most happening cities. It s a bustling commercial and cultural centre, and home to 20,000 energetic university students who give it a fair amount of nightlife. Set on placid Lake Pamvotis and facing sheer mountains, Ioannina has an idyllic setting and an evocative old quarter (the Kastro) interspersed with narrow lanes and architectural wonders dating back to Byzantine and Ottoman times. The city is also becoming a real treat for epicureans, with plenty of fine food and drink on offer. While the daunting mountains of Epiros have long kept Ioannina relatively isolated, the completion of the Via Egnatia highway, expected in early 2009, will reduce travel times significantly, making the city more accessible. History Ioannina was founded in the early 6th century by the great Byzantine Emperor Justinian, and became an important commercial and cultural outpost. In 1082, however, it was raided by the Normans during the first stages of an east west antagonism that peaked in 1204, when Latin Crusaders sacked Constantinople and dismembered the Byzantine Empire. Numerous illustrious Greek families from the capital fled to Epiros, where an important Byzantine successor state developed under Byzantine nobleman Michael I Komnenos Doukas. The Greeks would remain in control until the Serbs arrived in the early 14th century, followed briefly by more Latins and finally by the Ottoman Turks, who conquered in The Tourkokratia (Rule of the Turks), as Greeks gloomily call it, would last for the better part of five centuries. However, things were not terrible during Ottoman times for Ioannina, which enjoyed special privileges and became one of the foremost cultural and artistic centres in Greece. Important new schools were founded, skilled craftsmen created intricate silver and gold jewellery, and through the 16th and 17th centuries, the Epirot School of religious painting blossomed. As Ottoman power began to ebb in the late 18th century, crafty opportunists like the Albanian warlord Ali Pasha ( ) seized their opportunity. In 1789, the morally reprehensible yet oddly charismatic Ali made Ioannina the capital of his personal fiefdom, one which would soon encompass much of Albania and western Greece. Despite a penchant for cruelty that sickened that lover of Greece, Lord Byron, Ali enforced law and order, and Ioannina flourished. In 1822, trapped at the Agios Pandeleimon monastery on the Island (To Nisi) in Lake Pamvotis, the 82-year-old Ali was finally liquidated by some very irritated Ottomans, who paraded his severed head through the streets of İstanbul. Although Ottoman rule returned to Ioannina, it would become increasingly tenuous, and during the Balkan Wars of , Ioannina was captured by the Greek army. The character of the city s population would change dramatically over the next 30 years; in 1923, with the mandated Greek-Turkish population exchanges, Muslim Turks were replaced with Anatolian Greek refugees, while in 1943 the occupying Germans deported most of Ioannina s centuries-old Jewish population to the Nazi death camps. Orientation Ioannina is large, though walkable; parking, however, is tough. There s a municipal parking lot ( 2) off the main square, Pyrrou, and from here the main bus station is 300m away (Ioannina s other bus station is at Vizaniou 28). Most hotels lie between the main bus station and the square. Georgiou, down near the lakefront, also hosts several cafés. Ioannina s major historic sites are in the old quarter, the Kastro, which is essentially residential, but has atmospheric accommodation. The airport is 5km northwest of town. Information BOOKSHOPS Newsstand (% ; Pyrsinella 14) Sells foreign magazines and newspapers. Papasotiriou Bookstore (% ; Mihail Angelou 6) Sells English-language books, excellent maps and Lonely Planet guides. EMERGENCY Tourist police (% ; 28 Oktovriou 11) INTERNET ACCESS On-Line (% ; Pyrsinella 4; per hr 2; h9am-6am) Web (% ; Pyrsinella 21; per hr 2.30; h24hr) LAUNDRY Self Service Laundry (% ; Tsirigoti 3; full wash 8; h9.30am-2.30pm & 6-9pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am- 2.30pm Sat) Near the main bus station. MEDICAL SERVICES University Hospital (% ) Eight kilometres south, inside the university campus. MONEY Pyrrou and Averof s southern end host the major banks/atms. POST Post office Octovriou (28 Oktovriou 3); Georgiou Papandreou (Georgiou Papandreou) TOURIST INFORMATION EOT (Greek National Tourist Organisation; % ; fax ; Dodonis 39; h7.30am-2.30pm) Provides general information and hiking updates for the Zagorohoria or Vikos Gorge; very helpful. Sights The sublime Its Kale (Inner Citadel; h8am-5pm, 8pm- 10pm Tue-Sun) of the Kastro rises from a long bluff overlooking the lake and mountain. A great place for a leisurely stroll, Its Kale also has a small café. The mixed history it represents includes the Tomb of Ali Pasha and the restored Fetiye Cami (Victory Mosque), originally built in 1611 to reassert Ottoman dominance, following a failed Greek uprising that caused Christians to be expelled from the citadel. NORTHERN GREECE

172 328 EPIROS Ioannina Book accommodation online at EPIROS Ioannina 329 NORTHERN GREECE The best sight, however, is the Byzantine Museum (% ; Its Kale; admission 3; h8am-5pm Tue-Sun), housed in two nearby buildings, which include Ali Pasha s former palace. The museum features early Christian and Byzantine art, pottery, coins and silverware, and even post-byzantine icons and manuscripts. The priceless treasures include early printed Greek books from Venice and ornate silver jewellery boxes with cloisonné enamel. Textual accompaniments give a fascinating overview of Ioannina s history from the 4th to the 17th century, and divulge other unexpected facts, like that the Rome-based jewellery empire, Bulgari, was actually founded by humble Epirot émigré Sotirios Voulgaris in 1885; the Voulgaris IOANNINA 21 To Hotel Persa (3km); Perama (3km); Airport (5km) To Frontzou Politeia (2km); Igoumenitsa (86km); Parga (126km) Spyrou Despotatou Ipirou Lambrou Souliou 1 INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES EOS... 1 A3 Archaeological Museum C3 Newsstand... 2 B4 Lake Byzantine Museum D2 Pamvotis On-Line... 3 B4 Fetiye Cami D2 Papasotiriou Bookstore... 4 B3 Folklore Museum B3 Post Office... 5 B2 Municipal Ethnographic Post Office... 6 B3 Museum C2 Self Service Laundry... 7 B3 Synagogue C2 Tourist Police... 8 B3 Tomb of Ali Pasha D2 Web... 9 B4 Trekking Hellas B3 Pavlou Mela 28 Oktovriou Pargis 5 Sports Stadium Mihail Napoleonda Georgiou Papandreou Agiou Nikolaou Harilaou Dangli Markou Botsari Anexartisias Pyrrou Kendriki Pyrsinella To EOT (50m); University & University Hospital (8km) Angelou Trikoupi Dodonis Stratigou Papagou Sina 7 Karamanli Tsirigoti Aravantinou Averof 37 Vizaniou Tzavela Mavili Karamanli 10 Mitropoleos 25 Martiou Dimokratias Hristou Katsari 34 Koundouriotou Ethnikis Andistasis Kastro Ioustinianou Patriarhou Garivaldi Ritsioti Arhiepiskopou Makariou Andronikou Paleologou Ioasif Akti Miaouli m miles SLEEPING Filyra C2 Galaxy Hotel B4 Hotel Kastro D2 Limnopoula Camping A1 Olympic B3 Politeia B2 Lake Pamvotis 12 Dionysiou To the Island (To Nisi) (1.5km) EATING 1900 Cafe Restaurant C2 Es Aei C2 Mystagogia C2 Stoa Louli C3 DRINKING Ananta C2 Baccara Bar Restaurant B3 Filistro Café C2 Presveia C2 TRANSPORT Aegean Airlines B4 Bus Station for Arta, Preveza,Patra, Dodoni & Bizani C4 Island Ferry Quay C2 Lake Cruises...(see 34) Main Bus Station B2 Olympic Airlines B4 Roloi (Clocktower) Bus Stop C3 family is reportedly preparing to open a jewellery museum in Paramythia village by The Municipal Ethnographic Museum (% ; adult/student 3/1.50; h8am-8pm) stands at the Kastro s northern end in the Aslan Pasha Mosque (1619). Local costumes and photographs of old Ioannina are on display, as are tapestries and prayer shawls from the synagogue (Ioustinianou 16) of Ioannina s once significant Jewish community. Similar items, including embroidery and cooking utensils, are on view at the Folklore Museum (% ; Mihail Angelou 42-44; adult/student 2/1; h9am-2pm Tue-Sat, pm Wed & Sat). The Archaeological Museum (% ; 25 Martiou 6) remained closed for renovations at time of writing. It contains finds from Dodoni, Vitsa and Efira. Activities LAKE CRUISES The relaxing one-hour lake cruise (% ; tickets 5; h10am-midnight Mon-Sun summer, weekends only winter) departs from near the Island ferry quay. HIKING Serious hikers should do two things: first, get the map (Anavasi Mountain Editions; Pindus- Zagori 1:50,000), available for 8 from local periptera (street kiosks) or at Papasotiriou Bookstore (% ; Mihail Angelou 6), then get apprised with current conditions at the EOT (% ; fax ; Dodonis 39; h7.30am- 2.30pm) and/or EOS (Greek Alpine Club; % ; Despotatou Ipirou 2; h7-9pm Mon-Fri). Trekking Hellas (% ; Aravantinou 16) specialises in hikes, rafting and canyoning. Robinson Expeditions (% ; inson.gr) organises hiking and other outdoor sports in remote areas. Sleeping Perama, 10 minutes by bus around the lake, has cheap domatia. Most Ioannina hotels are near the noisy central plateia; for tranquillity and atmosphere, stay inside the Kastro. Limnopoula Camping (% ; Kanari 10; camp sites per adult/tent 8/4; hapr-oct) A breezy lakeside camping ground 2km northwest, Limnopoula has fine facilities, including a kitchen, laundry, and nearby restaurant. Filyra (% ; fax ; Andronikou Paleologou 18; s/d 45/55) The best place to stay, considering price and location, this flowerbedecked boutique hotel has five spacious selfcatering suites on a quiet Kastro side street. Galaxy Hotel (% ; fax ; Pyrrou; s/d 55/70; pa) This friendly hotel on the lake side of the main square has clean, sunny rooms and even mini-bathtubs. However, the singing elevator loses its charm quickly and the breakfast is meagre. Hotel Kastro (% ; Andronikou Paleologou 57; s/d 65/85; p) This restored Kastro mansion overlooking Its Kale is all about atmosphere: antique brass beds, stained-glass windows and a tranquil courtyard create a feeling of romantic seclusion. Service is friendly and prompt. Olympic (% ; Melanidhis 2; s/d 80/110; pa) Management recommends booking two weeks in advance at the Olympic, Ioannina s poshest digs. Rooms have the amenities and great lake views, and there s even a red carpet; shame then that there s little seclusion or tradition in this noisy central spot. Politeia (% ; Anexartisias 109; s/d/ste incl breakfast 85/100/170; pai) This central place set around a quiet inner courtyard and café offers studios with kitchenette and all mod cons. Rooms are tastefully decorated and painted in soft tones. Internet is available. Eating Most of Ioannina s best places only open for dinner. Mystagogia (% ; Koundouriotou 44; mains 6; hdinner) A popular late-night tsipouradhiko (place serving tsipoura sea bream and light snacks), the studenty Mystagogia has a good selection of nourishing mezedhes and good beef keftedhes (meatballs). Stoa Louli (% ; Anexartisias 78; mains 7-10) The Stoa Louli has been through many incarnations since being built in 1875; first it was an inn, later a trade centre for Jewish leather merchants, and even an Ottoman Bank. This tastefully lit place, fronted by grand arches, serves an alluring range of Greek favourites with a contemporary twist. Es Aei (% ; Koundouriotou 50; mains 7-11) This favourite haunt of local and foreign gastronomes combines an Ottoman flair with a unique, glass-roofed courtyard dining room. Its inventive dishes include mezedhes made from organic ingredients and Ioannina specials like grilled pork sausages Café Restaurant (% ; Neoptolemou 9; mains 10-15; hdinner, closed Jul-Aug) If you want to wow a date or simply enjoy a really good Italian meal this is the place to come. Genial owner Miltos Miltiadis provides a warm welcome at this restored, two-floor mansion, a living lesson in style with thick-painted crimson walls, Latin music, worn wood floors and soft light. Everything is good, from the penne and parmesan to Portobello mushrooms with mavrodafni wine sauce. Drinking Frontzou Politeia (% ; Lofos Agias Triadas; h9am-3am) Find superlative views of the city, lake and mountain opposite at this relaxed NORTHERN GREECE

173 330 EPIROS Around Ioannina EPIROS Around Ioannina 331 NORTHERN GREECE café 2km up on Ioannina s western hill. Lean back in its plush, colourful couches and enjoy a cool coffee drink on a warm summer morning, or a mixed one by night. Filistro Café (% ; Andronikou Paleologou 20) For a splendid spot of tea or afternoon liqueur, drop in to this classic, vividly painted Kastro café. Baccara Bar Restaurant (% ; Dimokratias; hnoon-2am) A sure sign that a city has arrived is when it spawns fully formed temples to conspicuous consumption. The see-and-be-seen Baccara, with its cavernous interior, fusion menu and tropical fish tank that runs the length of the entire back wall, is such a place. There s no middle ground; you ll either detest it or be impressed. opresveia (Embassy; % ; Karamanli 17; hevening only) True beer lovers, there is hope. Draught Guinness is relatively hard to find in Greece, as are the 100 or so other beers ( 4 to 11) available at this cosy pub popular with students. Oh, and the food (mains 5 to 9) is really good too. Ananta (% ; Anexartisias & Stoa Labei; h9pm-3am) With its shadows and a long bar set under an upward-curving, bare stone ceiling, the Ananta smacks of a Franciscan monastery albeit one powered by rock music and alcohol. Getting There & Away AIR Olympic Airlines (% ; Kendriki ) has two daily Athens flights ( 76 to 102) leaving at 10.30am and 5.30pm. Aegean Airlines (% ; Pyrsinella 11) has one Athens flight daily ( 35 to 121) at 5pm. BUS From Ioannina s main bus station (% ; Zozimadhon 4) buses serve Igoumenitsa ( 8.20, 2½ hours, eight daily), Athens ( 33.30, 7½ hours, nine daily), Konitsa ( 5.10, two hours, seven daily), Thessaloniki ( 27.10, five hours, six daily), Volos ( 20.30, five hours, two daily) and Metsovo ( 7, 1½ hours, four daily). There are two buses daily to Trikala ( 12.30, 3½ hours) and Kozani ( 18.40, 4½ hours), and one daily in summer to Parga ( 8, three hours). From Ioannina s other bus station (% ; Vizaniou 28) there are buses to Arta ( 3.90, 2½ hours, 10 daily) and Patra ( 19.70, 4½ hours, two daily). Buses also leave here for Preveza ( 8, three hours, six daily) and Dodoni. Albania From Ioannina buses go to the Greek border post of Kakavia ( 4.40, one hour, nine daily). Getting Around TO/FROM THE AIRPORT Ioannina Airport is 5km northwest on the Perama road. Bus 7 goes there every 20 minutes from the clock tower. CAR Budget Rent a Car (%/fax ; Dodonis 109) is at the airport, as is Auto Union Car Rental (%/fax ; Dodonis 66), which offers good deals. TAXI Taxis (% ) wait near Pyrrou and the lake. AROUND IOANNINA The Island Το Νησί Just opposite Ioannina in the middle of Lake Pamvotis, The Island (To Nisi) makes a nice vehicle-free escape, while also boasting unique historical attractions. The Island s whitewashed village, built in the 17th century by refugees from Peloponnesian Mani, still has around 300 permanent residents (among them four schoolkids). The forested island has important monasteries decorated with very unusual frescoes, and some equally atypical fish and amphibians for lunch in its restaurants. The old, white-plastered houses have lovely flower gardens and shutters and there are numerous silver shops. The Island s biggest claim to fame, however, was its chosen location for the last act in the long saga of Ali Pasha, the Albanian warlord who ruled Ioannina in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Ali s fickle allegiances and brazen challenge to Ottoman authority alarmed the Sublime Port, causing the Sultan to take out the Lion of Ioannina in Informed that he would be pardoned, the elderly Ali Pasha withdrew with his guard to Moni Pandeleïmonos on The Island, only to be trapped and gunned down by Ottoman troops. You can still see the hole in the floorboard where the fatal bullet passed through in the Ali Pasha Museum (adult 0.80; h8am-10pm summer, 9am-9pm winter), in a building inside ALI PASHA: THE LION OF IOANNINA Will Gourlay Swashbuckler, tyrant, sadist, arch brigand, Ali Pasha looms out of Greek history as a larger-thanlife character, but was probably not a very pleasant person to know. Ali was born in 1741 into a family holding the hereditary title of bey of Tepeleni in Albania. Ali s fortunes changed when his father, a man of mild disposition, was murdered. Ali s mother took to the hills to lead a group of bandits and the 14-year-old Ali followed. He proved to be a natural-born brigand and leader, eventually wresting control of Tepeleni and acquiring his father s erstwhile title. Then by stealth and cunning and with bucket loads of bravado, he won the confidence of the Ottoman sultan in Constantinople and was appointed pasha of Trikala in 1787 and Ioannina in Ali Pasha established his court at Ioannina, from where he ruled with an iron fist, securing the previously lawless roads and ushering in a period of economic prosperity and cultural flowering in all Epiros. Ali Pasha was known for sadistically doing away with insubordinates and enemies; he reputedly had a penchant for sexual deviance. His fame or perhaps notoriety spread throughout Europe. His court appears to have been as debauched and flamboyant as the man himself, attracting astrologers, poets and sycophantic diplomats. He dallied with Napoleon on his Dalmatian forays, consorted with Lord Byron, and over four decades he skilfully played off French, English, Russian, Venetian and Ottoman interests until his realm encompassed Albania, Thessaly and Epiros. Ali eventually grew too big for his boots, incurring the wrath of the Ottoman sultan. He was besieged in the island fortress at Ioannina and beheaded by Ottoman troops in His disembodied head was sent to Constantinople but his fame lives on. In mountaineers ballads he is remembered to this day as the Lion of Ioannina. the monastery. There s a printed narrative (in English) of the heady events of Ali s last days, as well as various personal effects and etchings of the portly pasha in full repose, sitting fat and happy with his consort, beards and hookah. To get there, walk up the hill from the ferry dock into the town and take the main street left; the monastery is signposted. Also of historical significance is Moni Filanthropinon, on The Island s western side. Built in the 13th century by the Filanthropini, a leading Constantinopolitan family who fled the rampaging Crusaders in 1204, the monastery boasts rare 16th-century frescoes of pagan Greek philosophers, including Plato, Aristotle and Plutarch, alongside more suitably Christian personalities. The expressiveness and pathos of these paintings, characteristic of the Epirot School of art, has aroused great interest from art historians. Moni Filanthropinon was also a secret school for Christians during the centuries of Ottoman Muslim domination. Eating on The Island is an experience. Head for Gripos (% ; mains 6-8), on the left of the ferry dock, or Propodes (% ; fish 4-6), on the path to Moni Pandeleimonos. Both specialise in lake fish and other local creatures. You can t miss Propodes: its eye-catching tanks outside, reminiscent of a Chinese market, are filled with wriggling eels, hopping frogs and crayfish all ready to be cooked up. Both are good, though Propodes is slightly cheaper and has a relaxing location under an awning above the water; go for the golden fillet of carp ( 6). GETTING THERE & AWAY Ioannina s ferry dock is just below the Kastro. Boats to The Island ( 1.30, 10 minutes) go between 7am and 11.30pm in summer, and between 7am and 10pm in winter. In summer, the boat goes every 15 minutes, in winter, only hourly. Perama Cave Σπήλαιο Περάματος Perama Cave (% ; adult/student 6/3; h8am-8pm) Four kilometres from Ioannina, Perama is one of Greece s largest and most impressive caves, loaded with white stalactites. Locals hiding from the Nazis discovered it in 1940; later, it was explored by speleologists Ioannis and Anna Petrohilos. The enormous 1100m-long cave has three storeys of chambers and passageways. There s an hour-long tour. Buses 8 and 16 from near Ioannina s clock tower run every 20 minutes to Perama, 250m south of the cave. NORTHERN GREECE

174 332 EPIROS Zagorohoria EPIROS Zagorohoria 333 NORTHERN GREECE Dodoni Δωδώνη In a fertile valley beneath Mt Tomaros, 21km southwest of Ioannina, stands Epiros most important ancient site, the Theatre of Dodoni (% ; adult 2; h8am-5pm). This colossal, 3rd-century-BC theatre was built where an earth goddess had been worshipped from around 2000 BC. She spoke through an oracle, reputedly the oldest in Greece and the most venerated in the land (before the Delphic oracle took precedence in the 6th century BC). By the 13th century BC, Zeus was speaking through the rustling of leaves from a sacred oak tree to worshippers at the site. Around 500 BC a temple was built in his honour, though today only its foundations and a few columns remain. Under King Pyrrhus, however, things took a dramatic turn and a theatre was erected. Now restored, the Theatre of Dodoni hosts Ioannina s Festival of Ancient Drama. On its north side, a gate leads to the acropolis, where remnants of its once-substantial walls remain. The foundations of the bouleuterion (council house) and a small Temple of Aphrodite lie east of the theatre. Nearby are the scant remains of the Sanctuary of Zeus, where once stood the top god s sacred oak and oracle. Later, in the 6th century, a Byzantine basilica was built over the site s Sanctuary of Hercules. GETTING THERE & AWAY Buses from Ioannina s second bus station, on Vizaniou, leave at 6.30am and 4.30pm daily, except for Thursday and Sunday, returning at 7.30am and 5.30pm. One other bus, on Sunday, leaves at 6pm and returns at 6.45pm. A taxi costs around 20 return plus 2.30 per hour for waiting. ZAGOROHORIA ΤΑ ΖΑΓΟΡΟΧΩΡΙΑ A cluster of 46 providentially preserved mountain hamlets, the Zagorohoria takes its name from an old Slavonic term, za Gora (behind the mountain), and the Greek word for villages (horia). These villages are tucked into the folds of the Pindos range and are filled with inexhaustible local legends and with marvellous houses, ranging from humble cottages of stone and slate to grand, fortified mansions made of the same hardy materials. These remote villages were once connected by paths and old stone bridges. Today, you ll see the bridges arching over riverbeds and valleys, though paved roads now connect the villages. Although time and emigration have left some villages mostly uninhabited, shed no tears: the rise of boutique and environmental tourism has led savvy locals to prosper by converting the Zagorohoria s old mansions (arhontika) and smaller traditional homes into lovely and unique guesthouses (xenones) very popular with Greek and foreign solitude-seekers. Encompassing the magnificent Vikos-Aoös National Park, the Zagorohoria is a top destination for nature photographers, hikers and climbers. History The Zagorohoria s historical significance can be experienced in its exquisite Byzantine and post-byzantine churches. After the dismemberment of Byzantium by the Latin Crusaders in 1204, and the Turkish capture of Constantinople in 1453, numerous important Greek families fled the capital for the mountain fastnesses of Epiros. The fortress-like Zagorohoria would safeguard Greek artistic and literary culture; churches in more vulnerable, low-lying parts of Greece suffered widespread damage from the Turks, who were particularly keen on gouging out the eyes of saints in frescoes. However, the Ottomans also gave the region privileges and autonomy for guarding the mountain passes. This, together with the remittances and gifts sent from the large Epirot diaspora abroad, funded the creation of the matchless Zagori villages and their great churches, in whose lavish decorations we can appreciate what the holy shrines of Byzantium would have looked like in their prime. Vikos-Aoös National Park Εθνικός Δρυμός Βίκου Αώου The literal and figurative centrepiece of Zagorohoria is the spectacular Vikos-Aoös National Park. This is a paradise of pristine rivers and forests, flowering meadows, and shimmering lakes reflecting jagged mountains and endless blue sky. The park is home to almost one-third of Greece s flora, some endemic, as well as endemic fish, foxes and chamois, rare hawks, river otters and brown bears. The park is dominated by the Tymfi Massif, part of the north Pindos Mountains, with numerous ear-popping peaks like Mt Trapezitsa (2022m), Mt Astraka (2436m) and Mt Gamila (2497m). To top it all off, there s the 12km-long Vikos Gorge, said to be the world s deepest. While most people you encounter will be fellow hikers or their local hosts, you can still find semi-nomadic Vlach and Sarakatsani shepherds, taking their flocks up to high grazing ground in summer and returning to the valleys in autumn. Dilofo & Negades Δίλοφο & Νεγάδες Coming from Ioannina, the first Zagorohoria village is enchanting Dilofo, 5.7km northeast of Asprangeli (a total of 32km from Ioannina). Unlike the larger and more visited villages, tiny Dilofo has only very recently awoken from its slumber and thus remains absolutely still and unchanged. Its jumbled slate-roofed houses tucked into the side of a mountain are highly evocative and there s a great view across the valley to Koukouli. This view is part of the explanation for the enormous, 13.5m-high Loumidi Mansion you will see on the left-hand side when entering Dilofo. The story goes that after a young woman from across the valley was wedded to a Dilofo man, she became so homesick that she wanted to return to her village, Koukouli. The father of the groom instead ordered the erection of a house tall enough for the woman to see her parents house and so it was. Dilofo s small central plateia is crowned by an enormous, 400-year-old plane tree and has a card telephone and taverna. There are To Bourazani (2km) Mazi Voïdomatis-Aoös Valley Voïdomatis River ZAGOROHORIA Aoös Klidonia To Mesovouni (8km) Iliorahi To Kastoria (140km); Prespa (190km) Kallithea Ano Klidonia Megalo Klidoniavista Bridge Papingo Kato Pedina Aristi River Vikos Elafotopos Ano Pedina To Karyes (12km); Ioannina (26km) Papingo Rock Pools Voïdomatis Springs D3 Moni Agia Pavaskevi Mikro Papingo Oxya Lookout Konitsa Monodendri Konitsa Bridge Astraka Hut Vikos-Aoös National Park Vikos Gorge D3 Aoös River Gorge Klima Spring D3 Vitsa Mt Astraka (2436m) Beloï Lookout Vradeto Kapesovo Moni Stomiou Lake Xeroloutsa Skala Vradetou Koukouli Kipi Mt Trapezitsa (2022m) Drakolimni See Enlargement Mt Gamila (2497m) D3 Tsepelovo Misio Bridge Koukouli To Ioannina (36km) & DIlofo Skamneli 0 0 Paliogefyro Bridge Hatsi Bridge 0 0 Kondodimos Bridge Kokkoro Plakida Bridge Bridge Negades Elefthero Aoös Tsuka Rosa (2377m) Palioseli To Vasilitsa (23km); Grevena (71km) River Vrisohori 1 km 0.5 miles Kipi 4 km 2 miles Mylos Bridge Padhes Iliohori NORTHERN GREECE

175 334 EPIROS Zagorohoria Book accommodation online at EPIROS Zagorohoria 335 NORTHERN GREECE limited, though excellent, accommodation options, and those craving a romantic respite from the outside world could do worse than settle in here for a few days. In the upper part of town stands the thick stone Church of Kimisis Theotokou (Dormition of the Virgin), which has an intricate, handcarved wooden iconostasis and nice icons. It s open for Sunday liturgy; to see it at other times, track down village doctor Giorgos Triandafilidis, who has the key. Although it s less well known than the one in Monodendri, Dilofo also has a hiking trail that leads to the Vikos Gorge ( opposite ) if you re a glutton for punishment and want more walking, then start the hike here. A nice excursion from Dilofo takes you 13km east to Negades, a stone-housed village with very little tourism. The 20-minute drive from Dilofo involves superb views of delicate stone bridges spanning densely wooded valleys and imposing cliffsides. Negades has a very impressive post-byzantine church, the Church of Agios Georgios. It s not always open, so plan in advance with Giorgos Kontaxis at the EOT in Ioannina. Built in 1792, the church is sumptuously decorated with exquisite icons and a gilded, hand-carved wood iconostasis, and lined with wall-to-wall frescoes, including rare paintings of pagan philosophers Aristotle and Plutarch. Don t leave without seeing the church s back section, where women once had to stand behind a grill to observe the service. The persuasive frescoes here, apparently created for purposes of moral edification, include a depiction of Judas being devoured by a sea monster, and a scrawny devil apparently riding and beating a bedded husband and wife who were too lazy to get up for church. Monodendri, Vitsa & Ano Pedina Μονοδένδρι, Βίτσα & Ανω Πεδινά Some 38km north of Ioannina, Monodendri is the Zagorohoria s main settlement, thanks to its proximity to the Vikos Gorge. To get there, turn right off the main Ioannina Konitsa road near Karyes and follow the signs. While there s considerable traffic in hikers and sightseers, and all of the support services that go with them, Monodendri is still a reasonably relaxing getaway. The monastery of Agia Paraskevi here has spectacular views into the gorge. According to legend, local lord Mihalis Voevodas Therianos founded the church in 1413 to thank God for healing his daughter of an incurable illness. Some of the church s frescoes also date to the 15th century. A second Monodendri church, the cross-domed Church of Agios Minas, stands near the square. It dates from the early 17th century, as do some frescoes inside. South of Monodendri is Vitsa, which is less visited but more aesthetically pleasing. In Byzantine times, it was called Vizitsini, and was a significant settlement. Vitsa also has a cross-domed church built concurrently with Agiou Mina in Monodendri, the Church of Agios Nikolaos. Most intriguingly, between Monodendri and Vitsa, archaeologists have discovered an ancient Molossi settlement. Ancient Epiros was ruled by the Molossi and King Pyrrhos. The site dates from the 9th century to the 4th century BC. Parts of ancient houses and graves from here are in Ioannina s Archaeological Museum ( p328 ). From Vitsa, drive 7.2km west-northwest to reach Ano Pedina, more touristy but a good base for exploring the central Zagorohoria. The village has many guesthouses, some quite striking. Aristi to the Papingo Villages The most memorable Zagorohoria experience for many is the drive up the vertiginous, ribboning northern road to Megalo Papingo and Mikro Papingo. If you re coming from Vitsa or Ano Pedina, the secondary road will join the main road running up from Ioannina. After heading west through Kato Pedina, follow the main road northwards until it branches after 4.1km; take the right branch to get to Papingo. Aristi, the last village before Papingo, features the lovely Monastery of Panagia Spiliotissa, located on the side of a boulder by the Voïdomatis River. Built in 1665, this narrow arched church is lined with frescoes. The monastery s philanthropy helped build schools in Zagorohoria during the Ottoman centuries. After Aristi, the paved road hugs the river and opens onto increasingly spectacular views. It s all white-knuckle driving as you ascend a tight succession of 15 hairpin turns up to the ledge where the Papingo villages nestle under the looming hulk of Mt Astraka. If you re not too busy concentrating on staying alive, look right to see superlative views of the Vikos Gorge. Megalo (Big) Papingo lives up to its name, with enormous stone formations known as towers. It also gets the bulk of the tourists, whereas Mikro (Small) Papingo has remained quieter. In the latter s old schoolhouse, there s a WWF information centre (h10.30am-5.30pm) with an excellent exhibition on the area s unique wildlife and fauna. Along with limitless hiking opportunities, the Papingo villages have wonderfully refreshing rock pools, good for a revitalising dip on a hot day. They re reached via a 300m path from a bend in the road connecting the two villages. Vikos Gorge Χαράδρα του Βίκου At the very centre of the Zagorohoria is the 12km-long, 900m-deep Vikos Gorge; according to the Guinness Book of World Records, it is the world s deepest, though gorge lobbyists elsewhere contest the claim. Either way, there s no denying that Vikos is a truly aweinspiring natural feature. The gorge begins near Monodendri (1090m) in the south and runs north until the Papingo villages. You can tackle it from either end, but if you want to return to where you started, you ll have to arrange transport back via the long road route. The Ioannina EOT ( p327 ) or EOS ( p329 ) can advise on current weather conditions and provide maps and other information. You ll need water, stout walking boots and some endurance; the hike takes around 6½ hours. If you start from Monodendri, walk to the 15th-century monastery of Agia Paraskevi for a spectacular view over the gorge. You can descend here, on a steep, marked path between the village and monastery. From there, it s a four-hour walk to the end, from where a trail up to the right leads to Mikro Papingo (2½ hours). The larger Megalo Papingo is a further 2km west, but the track splits into two at the base of the climb. The Klima Spring, about halfway along the gorge, is the only water source. You can also terminate your hike at Vikos, south of the Papingo villages, where the owner of the kafeneio (coffee house) on the square will drive you back to Monodendri for 35 (a taxi would cost double). Located 5km northeast of Aristi, Vikos also has accommodation and excellent views, and is a nice place to spend a night. Stunning views of the gorge can be enjoyed from the Oxya Lookout, 5km on a good dirt road beyond Monodendri. Opposite on the eastern side, there s another jaw-dropping peer into the abyss at Beloi Lookout. To get there, drive 9km on a winding road or go to Vradeto from the signposted turn-off near Kapesovo, and then hike 1.5km along a marked trail at the end of the dirt road; you can also drive, but it s bumpy. Vradeto is another evocative village, with a striking position along striated limestone cliffs. The Beloi Lookout is accessible on foot via a vertiginous rock stairway called the Skala Vradetou, signposted just outside Tsepelovo. This village makes a relaxing base for hill walking and hiking to northern Zagorohoria sites like the Drakolimnes (Dragon Lakes). It has a post office, cardphone, and good accommodation and eating options. Activities English-speaking Alex Danelas (% ; is a very experienced and qualified local hiking guide. Trekking Hellas (% ; Aravantinou 16, Ioannina) does rafting, while Robinson Expeditions (% ; activities@robinson.gr; hmay-oct) runs a mountain sports activity centre in Kipi. Sleeping The growing popularity of the Zagorohoria among Greek and foreign tourists has created an arms race of new guesthouses. While prices are high, many Zagori guesthouses are unforgettable and the location is, as they say, priceless. Archontiko Zarkada (% ; dri.com; Monodendri; s/d 25/35) These clean, snug rooms have balconies with gorge views. Some rooms have spa baths for nursing bruised hikers back to health. Xenos Vikos (% ; Monodendri; d 45-60; hmar-dec) Located only 400m from the Vikos Gorge, next to the lower village square, this relaxed but lively xenonas (guesthouse) has a leafy courtyard for eating breakfast, and a communal kitchen and lounge. Porfyron (% ; fax ; Ano Pedina; s/d 45/60) A 19th-century mansion recently converted into an inn, the red-painted Porfyron has considerable rustic charm, with antique furnishings and soft-coloured walls complementing the classic, wood-panelled ceilings. The ground-floor doubles have spiral NORTHERN GREECE

176 336 EPIROS Zagorohoria Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at EPIROS Konitsa 337 NORTHERN GREECE HIKING THE ZAGOROHORIA: THE GRAND TOUR To see the Zagorohoria at its most spectacular, get off the roads and into nature. You don t necessarily need a guide, but get an update on conditions from the EOT ( p327 ) or EOS (p329) in Ioannina first. And definitely get the map, Anavasi Mountain Edition s Pindus-Zagori 1:50,000 ( 8), available in Ioannina, Monodendri, Papingo and in some guesthouses in other villages too, or on the Anavasi website ( Armed with this information and tough hiking boots, a compass, sunscreen, sticks and water, you ll be ready to go. While the area offers plenty of rewarding day hikes, hardened hikers will be intrigued to know that it is possible to do a three-day grand tour, sleeping in guesthouses and mountain huts along the way. One such hike goes from Monodendri to Tsepelovo. First, from Monodendri the trail leads through the stunning Vikos Gorge to the Papingo villages (6½ hours). From here it s another three hours to the Astraka Hut (% ; dm 10; hmay-oct), up at 1950m. There s no phone or electricity, but the 52-bed hut is always open and has a warden, generator power and food. From here it s only a 30-minute hike to the sublime Drakolimni (Dragon Lake), though coming back down takes 45 minutes. From Drakolimni, you can continue to the spectacular peak of Mt Gamila; this is a tougher hike, with many ups and downs, and takes four hours. Another five hours from Gamila brings you finally to Tsepelovo. Alternatively, from Gamila you can hike up to Vrisohori, along the Aoos River, with crystal-clear mountain springs. staircases leading down to en suites. Owners Rita and Yannis provide local information and, if your room is one with a fireplace, will happily get you the wood. Xenonas Dias (% ; Mikro Papingo; s/d 45/60). This rustic pension with 12 rooms and a tasty restaurant is a solid bet in the quieter Mikro Papingo village. Xenonas Mikro Papingo 1700 (% ; Mikro Papingo; s/d 45/60) Newly opened 1700 has five handsomely appointed rooms. It s a lovely choice with real character. Papaevangelou (George s Place; % ; Megalo Papingo; s/d/tr/studio 50/65/80/110) Nice stone rooms and spectacular views, along with hearty homemade breakfasts. At the central square, turn left on the unpaved road. The hotel is on the right. Hotel Agriogido (% , ; georgio@papingo.gr; Megalo Papingo; s/d/t incl breakfast 55/70/100) A relaxing guesthouse in a restored old Zagori dwelling. When entering Papingo, you ll see it on the left. oarhontiko Dilofo (% , ; Dilofo; d incl breakfast from 65) One of the most wonderful guesthouses in all of Zagorohoria, this 475-year-old restored mansion in placid Dilofo is ideal for anyone seeking total peace and natural harmony. Rooms feature traditional carpets, furnishings and ornate painted window shutters that, when closed, give you a feeling of being inside the warm hold of a grand seafaring vessel. The Arhontiko has a lovely enclosed garden and scenic views over the village s cluttered slate rooftops. The friendly and immensely knowledgeable owner, Giorgos Kontaxis, happily speaks of the gold pipes, secret letters and other centuries-old mementos he discovered while renovating the mansion, inhabited since Greek, English, German and Italian are spoken here. Primula (% ; Ano Pedina; d from 70) Another restored 19th-century mansion in Ano Pedina centre, the romantic Primula has a captivating assortment of differently appointed rooms; the walls of some are stone, while others are well painted in mottled pastel tones. Billowing drapes add to the charm. Mikri Arktos (Little Bear; % ; kittasth@ otenet.gr; Tsepelovo; d from 70) This cosy guesthouse on Tsepelovo s plateia is named after owner Thomas Kittas favourite constellation, one of many visible in the perfectly clear mountain sky at night. It s a friendly place where you can doze off in the shade of a plane tree, try the specials at the downstairs taverna, or cook for yourself in the kitchenettes found in each of the unique and vividly painted rooms. Eating Edesma (% ; Tsepelovo; pites 3-5) Come here for pites or ready-cooked meals (mayirefta), right in Tsepelovo. Ta Soudena (% ; Ano Pedina; mains ) A popular taverna at the entrance to Ano Pedina, Ta Soudena offers Greek vegetable mezedhes, pites and grilled meats. Sopotseli (% ; Dilofo; 4-7) This relaxing taverna along Dilofo s square serves up hearty portions of grilled Greek meats and very fresh salads. O Dionysos (% ; Monodendri; pites 5-6) Along upper Monodendri s main street, this is a good spot for a tasty fakopita (lentil pie) or other traditional Epirot pies. Restaurant H Tsoumanis (% ; Vikos; mains 6). Gorge yourself near the gorge at this iconic taverna in Vikos; wild boar, goat and other mountain creatures are recommended. Spiros Tsoumanis (% ; Megalo Papingo; mains 8-13) This hearty country grill at the end of Papingo specialises in local pites and roast lamb sti gastra, with fresh-from-the-garden horta (wild greens) salads. Getting There & Away From Ioannina, buses go to Dilofo ( 3.50), continuing to Tsepelovo ( 4.10, 1½ hours, 5.30am and 3.15pm Monday, Wednesday and Friday). Other buses serve Megalo and Mikro Papingo ( 4.90, two hours, 5am and 3pm Monday, Wednesday and Friday, with the Wednesday bus calling in at Vikos in summer) and Monodendri ( 3.10, one hour, 6am and 3pm Monday, Wednesday and Friday). All buses return to Ioannina immediately. On weekends, take a taxi: Ioannina Monodendri fares are approximately 25 to 30, though you can negotiate. KONITSA ΚΟΝΙΤΣΑ pop 2871 Carved amphitheatrically into a hillside under endless blue skies, Konitsa (ko-nit-sah) is the gateway to the northern Zagorohoria. It s also a lively mountain market town in its own right, and one not without its share of rugged individuals. Kayakers, hikers and river explorers circle the wagons at night here, and Greek hunters too use Konitsa as a sort of cowboy depot. The town s only a few kilometres southwest of the Mertziani border crossing with Albania. From Ioannina, Konitsa is 64km north on the national road; past it, this road arcs northeast on a magnificent route between the Grammas and Smolikas Mountains, to Kastoria in western Macedonia. Orientation & Information Coming from Ioannina, Konitsa is on the right-hand side of the national road, and sprawls up from it for some 2km. Konitsa s central square has pharmacies, a post office and a Commercial Bank with an ATM. The bus station is a short walk downhill from here. Konitsa also has a small hospital for first aid. There s no EOT, but there is Ioannis Mourehidis at To Dendro Guesthouse, for over 30 years the independent traveller s first port of call in Konitsa. Activities The most appealing local walk is the 4.5km hike along the Aoös River Gorge to Moni Stomiou (Stomio Monastery), founded in the 15th century but relocated here in 1774 from its original location on Mt Trapezitsa. Start at the beginning of the town, where the river is straddled by the impressive Konitsa Bridge. This 20m-high, 40m-long single-arched stone structure was built in 1870 by a local master craftsman, using money pooled from the then-ottoman town s Christian and Muslim citizens. After the Greek-Turkish population exchanges 43 years later, however, the latter would be sent to Turkey and replaced by Greeks from Cappadocia. After the bridge, follow the turquoise waters of the Aoös River along the signposted trail. The first third is a drivable dirt road, but it soon becomes a narrow path between the water and a steep bank, and then barrels gradually upwards through dense vegetation. The last 1.5km is wider, but steep. The monastery might be open; even if it s not, the hike is worthwhile for the tremendous views over the Aoös River canyon. Spring water is available. No Limits (% ; organises mild to extreme river-based activities. Anglers can enjoy fly-fishing along the Aoös River to the southwest, near Bourazani. Sleeping & Eating Kougias Hotel (%/fax ; s/d 35/45) If you d like to stay right on the square, and try the owner s award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon, then come to the friendly though reserved Kougias. Rooms are well done, with a new upper floor of attic doubles offering excellent views. NORTHERN GREECE

177 338 EPIROS Around Konitsa Book accommodation online at EPIROS Preveza 339 NORTHERN GREECE To Dendro Guesthouse (% ; d/tr 40/55; p) While a moustachioed man clad in leather and answering to the name Johnny Dendro might not seem particularly auspicious to the first-time Konitsa visitor, seasoned travellers know that Yiannis Mourehidis will sort them out with clean, comfortable rooms and solid, money-saving travel tips. The charismatic Yiannis can organise trips to Albania and kayaking adventures, and also runs a spirited taverna. Entering town, look for the UN-like display of flags on the last bend of the road before the main square. Grand Hotel Dendro (% ; hoteldentro.gr; d/tr/ste 60/75/100; pa) A different ambience pervades this, the upmarket sister hotel of the To Dendro guesthouse. With this new offering, Yiannis and his Cypriot wife Katerina have sought to merge the traditional with the luxurious. The attic suites, with hydromassage showers, spacious living rooms and fireplace, are reminiscent of a superior ski lodge, while the use of soft lighting and pastel colours lend a newlywed feel to the doubles. Excellent home-cooked Greek fare is served in the formal dining room. o Konitsa Mountain Hotel (% ; s/d/tr/ste incl breakfast 70/90/120/150; ps) This grand new hotel 2km up the hill behind town offers spacious rooms and combines smooth marble, beautifully seasoned wood floors and, of course, breathtaking mountain views. Some rooms have large Jacuzzis and fireplaces. The hotel also has sauna, Turkish baths and a gym. Friendly owners Babis and Georgia, and their English-speaking son Apostolis, can advise about local activities. They also offer a mountain/sea two-week deal involving seven days at the Konitsa hotel and seven days at its sister hotel on Corfu island, transport included. To get there, follow the road behind the centre uphill for 2km or take a taxi from the plateia (about 2). oto Dendro Restaurant (% ; mains 5-7) Greek hunters and veteran travellers alike know that this, the taverna of innkeeper Yiannis Mourehidis, is the best place in town for wild boar in wine, pot-roasted lamb or delicious lake trout. Kick back with a beer and listen to Yiannis stories about life in the Konitsa wilds, but whatever you do don t leave without trying the delectable hot grilled feta with chilli and tomato special. Getting There & Away From the bus station (% ) buses serve Ioannina ( 5.10, two hours, seven daily); change here for other destinations. Buses go to the Albanian border at Mertziani ( 1.30, 30 minutes, three daily) and to Bourazani ( 1.20, 30 minutes, four daily). The Petrina Horia villages of Molista and Ganadio have twice-weekly buses ( 2.30, 30 minutes). If there are passengers, an afternoon bus leaves three times weekly for Kastoria ( 14, four hours). AROUND KONITSA Bourazani Μπουραζάνι The Bourazani Environmental Park (% ; adult/child 10/6; hfrom sunset), 14km west of Konitsa, educates about Epiros wild things. It takes up a whole mountain close to the Albanian border, and includes a conference hall for environmental education and feeding areas for boar, deer, kri-kri and moufflon. You can see animals feeding at dusk via a bus tour from the adjacent Hotel Bourazani (% ; burazani@otenet.gr; s/d/tr 70/105/110; ps), a good family spot that combines a hunting lodge ethos with a recreational centre (it has a pool, and tennis and basketball courts). The hotel s restaurant grills up the Environmental Park s unluckier inhabitants. Molista & Ganadio Μόλιστα & Γαναδιό To see some wonderful and totally unvisited traditional villages set amid lush forests, head north of Konitsa to the Petrina Horia (Stone Villages) of Molista and Ganadio. Molista is very quiet, with only a small number of elderly inhabitants living there year-round. The village s stone architecture and cobblestoned streets are aesthetically soothing and it also has the large Church of Agios Nikolaos kai Taxiarhes (St Nicholas and the Archangels), created in 1864 on the site of a much older one. The church has a large belfry and an opulent wood-carved iconostasis, with fine detail work illustrating Biblical tales like Adam, Eve, and the serpent in the Garden of Eden. Its impressive icons date back at least 130 years. However, locals keep the previous church s icon collection under lock and key; no-one knows how old they might be, as the villagers are still waiting for the Ministry of Culture to send an expert. Molista also has a humble but lovely guesthouse, the Arhontiko tis Serafi (% , ; s/d/t 40/60/70), run by the goodnatured Vangelis Serafis. The rooms aren t spectacular but are intimate and do have some nice touches, antiques and the occasional vividly painted wall motif. There s central heating in the winter, and some rooms have fireplaces; however, you pay for the wood (about 10 per night). The hotel s ceiling was hand-carved in Downstairs, between stone arches, the arhontiko has a cosy restaurant specialising in homemade Epirot food such as lahanopita (vegetable pie) and grilled meats. The second stone village, nearby Ganadio, has even more impressive stonework, but no accommodation. The village is over 450 years old, and taking a leisurely stroll along its cluttered old stone houses and flower gardens in the warm summer evening shadows is a real pleasure. Ganadio also has a café where locals keep loose, and the grand Church of Agii Taxiarhes (Church of the Holy Archangels) just opposite. It s not likely to be open, so ask someone in the café to find charismatic local priest Ioannis, who will be glad to show you around and, if you re lucky, have you over for a crisp distilled beverage on his patio. The stone church was built in 1870, and has unusual blue-painted walls. Its eclectic contents testify to the contributions of local artisans and the Epirot diaspora: the hand-carved wood iconostasis was made in Gjirokastër (Argyrokastro in Greek), just across the border in Albania, while ornaments from Bucharest, Russian icons and lavish wall murals attest to its diaspora funding. The Petrina Hora are never crowded, though the summer panigyria (festivals) on 15 and 20 of August, celebrating saint s days with music, dancing and traditional food and drink, liven things up in Ganadio. Nevertheless, if you go in spring or autumn you ll be likely to have the place to yourself, and there are plenty of wonderful local walks to enjoy. Getting There & Away From Konitsa s bus station (% ) there are buses to Bourazani ( 1.20, 30 minutes, four daily) and to Molista and Ganadio ( 2.30, two weekly). It s better to drive to Molista or Ganadio than take the bus. From the entrance to Konitsa, head north on the national road (towards Kastoria) for 17.2km; a sign reading traditional stone villages will appear. Turn right here and follow the next sign to Molista (2km). PREVEZA ΠΡΕΒΕΖΑ pop 17,724 Set on a peninsula between the Ionian Sea and the Ambracian Gulf, Preveza (preh-veh-zah) is a small fishing and commercial port beautified by yachts in the harbour and painted houses in its narrow backstreets. Although it has a small student population and some holidaying Greeks, Preveza is more a waystation for nearby beach resorts and a destination for business travellers than anything else. Nevertheless, it s an attractive town with friendly locals, and worth visiting for a relaxing seafood lunch and for a wander through the old streets. Orientation & Information Coming from the bus station, 2km north of the centre, the major thoroughfare is Leoforos Irinis; the main sights are between it and the water to the east, hemmed in by the (closed) Venetian Castle of Agios Andreas on the north. Ethnikis Andistasis, roughly parallel with Loeoforos Irinis and two blocks up from the waterfront, holds most of the banks, ATMs and shops. The street s prominent clock tower marks the centre; restaurants line the nearby alleys, while the waterfront has cafés. An underwater car tunnel ( 3) linking Preveza with Aktion to the south starts about 2.5km west of Preveza centre; there are no passenger ferries between Preveza and Aktion. NetcaféAscot (% ; Balkou 6; per hr 3; h9.30am-2am) Check internet here. News Stand (% ; Balkou 10) Stocks foreign newspapers. Tourist information (% ; Balkou) Opposite NetcaféAscot. Sleeping Camping Kalamitsi (% ; fax ; Kalamitsi; camp sites per adult/tent 5/4; s) Preveza s best camping ground has 116 grassed sites with ample shade, a large pool, restaurant, and good services. It s 4km along the main Preveza Parga road. Hotel Avra (% ; fax ; Eleftheriou Venizelou 19; s/d 40/50; p) Avra prides itself on location and has clean, airy rooms, though no longer the town s most luxurious. Those with balconies overlooking the harbour have good views, but also street noise. NORTHERN GREECE

178 340 EPIROS Around Preveza EPIROS Parga 341 NORTHERN GREECE PREVEZA Irinis Haonias To Bus Station (2km); Nikopolis (7km); Igoumenitsa (95km) Arta (50km); Zalongou Tsaldari Polytehniou Kondou Attitanon Bizaniou m miles Kolokotroni Selefkias Castle of Agios Andreas 21 Oktovriou INFORMATION NetcaféAscot... 1 B3 Newsstand...(see 1) Tourist Information... 2 B3 SLEEPING Hotel Avra... 3 B4 Hotel Dioni... 4 B4 Preveza City Hotel... 5 A3 EATING Amvrosios... 6 B3 O Kaihis... 7 B4 TRANSPORT Olympic Airlines... 8 A3 Taxi Stand B4 Taxi Stand A3 Taxi Stand B3 To Camping Kalamitsi (4km); Parga (66km) 11 Theofanous Parthenagogiou Botsari Theofilou Papageorgiou Klemanso Spiliadou Kolovou 3 1 Balkou 2 Nikis El Venizelou Karyolaki Ethnikis Andistasis 9 To Road Tunnel to Aktion (3.5km); Airport (7km) Ambracian Gulf Hotel Dioni (% ; fax ; Theofilou Papageorgiou; s/d 50/80; a) This former budget place will go upmarket following a renovation planned at time of writing. The hotel is set on a quiet street close to the main sites. Preveza City Hotel (% ; fax ; Leofors Irinis 69; s/d 50/80; p) This new business hotel has taken the mantle as the town s best, though it also has a very businesslike location up on noisy Leoforos Irinis. Rooms are modern with all the expected amenities and service is brisk though friendly. Eating oamvrosios (% ; Grigoriou tou Pemptou 9; mains 4-5) From sardines to swordfish, they have it all at this iconic fish taverna spilling out onto a flowering side lane by the waterfront. Everyone comes here, from confident cats to boisterous assortments of Greek students. Choose from the catch of the day, relax with a beer or wine and let the chefs get to work. O Kaihis (% ; Parthenagogiou 7; mains 5-7) This taverna, also on a side street a bit further south, takes a no-nonsense approach with its grilled meats and hefty Greek salads. Service is gruff but thorough. Getting There & Away AIR At least five flights weekly serve Athens ( 65, one hour). Olympic Airlines (% ; Irinis 37) has an office. Preveza airport, 7km south of the town, is sometimes called Lefkada or Aktion. Olympic Airlines operates an airport bus ( 1.55). An airport taxi is 10. BUS From the bus station (% ) buses serve Ioannina ( 8.70, two hours, eight daily), Parga ( 6.10, two hours, five daily), Igoumenitsa ( 8.50, 2½ hours, two daily), Thessaloniki ( 39, eight hours, one daily) and Athens ( 32, six hours, five daily). AROUND PREVEZA Nikopolis Νικόπολη In 31 BC Octavian (later, Emperor Augustus) defeated Mark Antony and Cleopatra in the famous naval Battle of Actium (present-day Aktion). To celebrate, he built Nikopolis (City of Victory; % ; adult 2; h8.30am-3pm). Octavian populated it by forcibly resettling people from surrounding towns and villages. In the 5th and 6th centuries AD, Nikopolis was plundered by Vandals and Goths, but was rebuilt by Byzantine Emperor Justinian. Nikopolis was sacked again by the Bulgars in the 11th century, and that was it. The original Roman walls barely survive, though the Byzantine walls and a theatre are better preserved. The site also includes remnants of a Temple of Ares, a Temple of Poseidon, an aqueduct, Roman baths and a restored Roman odeum. The enormous site sprawls across the Preveza Arta road. The site s archaeological museum (% ; adult 3; h8.30am-3pm) also has ancient exhibits, while other finds are displayed in Ioannina s (currently closed) Archaeological Museum ( p328 ). Preveza Arta buses stop at Nikopolis. PARGA ΠΑΡΓΑ pop 2432 An island that forgot it was attached to the mainland, Parga is the only true resort of the Epiros Riviera, and one that has something for everyone. Set inside a curving bay crowned by a Venetian castle and flanked by golden beaches, Parga is an aesthetic pleasure, with its exquisite aquamarine waters balanced by lush green olive-clad hills, little islets and white-plastered houses stacked on winding, flowery streets above a colourful waterfront whose cafés and bars come roaring to life in summer. Indeed, Parga parties hard in July and especially August, when the Italians bear down in force on a town that was, like the rest of Epiros coast, once a Venetian possession. Indeed, the dark features, accent and soft hospitality of the local Greeks show that this old Mediterranean spirit is alive and well here. At the beginning and end of summer, Parga is a popular package-tour destination for Northern European tourists; nevertheless, its small size and sense of seclusion help preserve its intimate feel. It s a place whose backstreets are still full of scampering children, hidden chapels and the clothes of the locals hanging out to dry. Swimming season begins in early May, and unlike most Greek holiday resorts, there s a fine sandy beach with good swimming (perfect for kids) in Parga centre. The town makes an ideal base for excursions to Paxi and Antipaxi, and the mysterious Nekromanteio of Afyra. Orientation & Information The main north south road from Preveza to Igoumenitsa passes by Parga at its top; from where the bus stops on the east side of town, Spyrou Livada descends into the centre. A second road further west also leads into the centre; it connects to the 2km-long Valtos just southwest. Commercial Bank, Agricultural Bank and Citibank ATMs exist. The National Bank of Greece is up on Spyrou Livada opposite the church. Parga also has a small medical centre. International Travel Services (ITS; % ; Spyrou Livada 4) Just down from the bus station, ITS is a very experienced and helpful starting point: it can find accommodation, book local tours, arrange travel tickets, provide general information and even sells international newspapers and magazines. A Budget Rent a Car office is within ITS. Newsstand (% ; Alexandrou Baga 16) Stocks foreign newspapers and magazines. Parga.net (% ; Anexartisias 17; per hr 3; h8.30am-1.30pm & pm May-Oct) An internet café; also visit the Parga.net website itself for useful information. Police (% ; Alexandrou Baga 18) The tourist police are located here too. Post office (Alexandrou Baga 18) Sights The cliff-top Venetian Castle (To Kastro) marks the western edge of Parga, and separates the town from Valtos. Attesting to the 400- year Venetian presence in Epiros, the castle offers superb views of the coastline and town from its ramparts. The renovated central area has a café (% ; h11am-late) in the former French armoury. Since the ramparts are partially unfenced, it s not a place for small children to go running around. Activities Visits to the Nekromanteio of Afyra ( p343 ), cruises on the Aherondas River, day trips to Albania or Paxi and Antipaxi are only some of what s on offer at International Travel Services (ITS; % ; Spyrou Livada 4), the extremely informative travel agency across from the bus stop. ITS can inform about local hill walks and can even organise a one-day beginner s dive course for 35. Sleeping An excellent accommodation-finder for all budgets is International Travel Services, NORTHERN GREECE

179 342 EPIROS Parga Book accommodation online at EPIROS Around Parga 343 NORTHERN GREECE PARGA To Valtos (1km); Venetian Castle Themeli 23 Fevrouariou To Valtos (1km); Valtos Camping (1km); Villa Avgi (4km) Mandilara L Gaki Zeri Katsoni 28 Oktovriou located near the bus stop. Simple domatia are on Gaki Zeri, a narrow street with a view over Valtos. Valtos Camping (% ; Valtos ; camp sites per adult/tent 5.20/3.90) This camping ground set amid orange trees at Valtos, 2km west of Parga centre, has a restaurant. The 15-minute walk from Parga centre is steep, though you can also drive. Enjoy Lihnos Camping (% ; Lihnos ; camp sites per adult/ tent 5/4, d 55) This shady spot on a clean, sandy beach has a supermarket and restaurant; studios are also available. Hotel Paradise (% ; Spyrou Livada 23; s/d 50/65; ais) The friendly, central Hotel Paradise has a lovely courtyard pool and downstairs bar. Rooms are airy and clean, with all mod cons. A Europcar, bike rental and National Bank of Greece are all nearby. oacropol (% ; Agion Apostolon 4; s/d 60/90; a) The refined Acropol, tucked midway up among Parga s little laneways, is an exercise in sophisticated seclusion. The 10 luxurious rooms have king-sized beds, hydromassage showers and Agion K Tzavela Anargyron 15 6 Agion Apostolon Skoufa 11 Vasila Alexandrou Baga Church Spyrou Livada Averof 17 Agion Grigoriou Lambraki INFORMATION Agricultural Bank... 1 B2 Citibank ATM... 2 B2 Commercial Bank of Greece... 3 B2 International Travel Services... 4 C1 Medical Centre... 5 C2 A Baga V Vasila To Igoumenitsa (54km) Souliou Agias m miles 21 Marinas 8 Lithitsa Hill 18 Anexartisias National Bank of Greece... 6 B2 Newsstand... 7 B2 Parga.net... 8 C3 Police... 9 B1 Post Office B1 SLEEPING Acropol B2 Hotel Paradise B2 San Nectarios Hotel C2 EATING Apagio Ouzeri C2 Castello Restaurant B2 Dionysios D3 O Arkoudas B2 Taverna to Souli C3 DRINKING Antico B2 Sugar Bar C3 TRANSPORT Bus Station C1 Europcar B2 Excursion Boats to Paxi C3 Taxi Stand B2 Water Taxis C3 16 Kryoneri Riga Fereou To Utopia Studios (300m); Golfo (450m); Enjoy Lihnos Camping (4km); Lihnos (4km); Bella Vista Studios & Apartments (4km); Nekromanteio of Afyra (21km); Preveza (67km) handmade Italian furniture. Some of the small balconies have views of the Kastro. The Acropol is signposted from all over in town, so even if you can t see this hidden gem, you can t miss it. The Acropol also hosts the discerning Castello Restaurant. Utopia Studios (% ; Agiou Athanasiou; d/tr 60/90; hmay-oct; a) These five spacious, sea-view apartments give the relaxing sense of being in a real house. The wood furnishings have an understated elegance, and the balconies are large and relaxing. Some of the bathrooms feature large hydromassage baths. There s a wi-fi hotspot too. San Nectarios Hotel (% ; Agias Marinas 2; d/t 65/80) The first hotel you come across when entering Parga, the San Nectarios enviable hill-top location offers splendid views of the town, sea and castle. The rooms are are clean and come with all amenities. There s also a wi-fi hotspot here. Bella Vista Studios & Apartments (% , ; Lihnos ; st/apt 80/100; a) If you want to peace out above Lihnos, these very modern studios and apartments, set around an inviting pool amid citrus trees, are a good bet. The 16 rooms are all recently renovated and kitchens are well equipped. The apartments sleep up to five and all the upper rooms have large balconies overlooking the beach and the olive-clad hills. You can walk downhill to the beach in five minutes; the management also offers deep discounts on weekly car rentals. Eating & Drinking Taverna to Souli (% ; Anexartisias 45; mezedhes 4-6, mains 6-9) This relaxing place does great mezedhes, with a focus on local treats like grilled feta cheese with tomatoes and herbs (feta Souli). Try the oven-baked lamb or goat (kleftiko) for a filling main course. Apagio Ouzeri (% ; mezedhes ) Parga s only ouzerie is tucked into a staired alley off the promenade. It s got unique homemade dishes like lamb in juniper berry sauce, and excellent draught Zitsa wine. O Arkoudas (% ; Grigoriou Lambraki; mains ) Down on the waterfront strip, The Bear, as it s called in Greek, has good bay views, and tasty grilled calamari. odionysios (% ; Riga Fereou; 1 fish 7-10) Dionysios, Parga s best place for fresh fish, is on the waterfront just before the town beach. You can people-watch from the upper veranda, which has an excellent view of the beach and facing islet, while you wait for a marinated fillet of swordfish or sea bream. Castello Restaurant (% ; Hotel Acropol, Agion Apostolon 4; mains 8-11) A creative fusion of French, Italian and Greek cuisine is prepared with style at the Castello. It has an elegant, relaxed feel probably the only place in town where you can hear classic Miles Davis tracks playing during dinner, and definitely the only one whose wine cellar is visible through a glass panel beneath your feet. Service is prompt and attentive. Find it at the Hotel Acropol. osugar Bar ( waterfront; h10am-late) While it might at first seem indistinguishable from the other cafés wrapped along the waterfront, laid-back Sugar has substance as well as style, serving 106 different cocktails; the loyal following, like the tunes, is both Greek and international. Antico (% ; Anexartasies 4; h10am-3am) You can t stop the rock at this cosy little bar tucked in an upper side street, walls lined with guitar posters. The friendly bartender is dedicated to a playlist strong on 70s and 80s classic rock, with an occasional dip into the 60s back catalogue. Getting There & Away BUS From the bus station (% ) buses serve Igoumenitsa ( 5.20, one hour, five daily), Preveza ( 6.10, two hours, four daily), Thessaloniki ( 39, seven hours, one daily) and Athens ( 35.30, seven hours, three daily). CAR Hire a car at Europcar (% ; Spyrou Livada 19) or Budget Rent a Car, located at International Travel Services (ITS; % ; Spyrou Livada 4). WATER TAXI Water taxis go to Voltos ( 4, from 9.30am to 6pm), Lihnos ( 7, from 11am to 5pm) and Sarakiniko ( 8, from 10am). AROUND PARGA Nekromanteio of Afyra Νεκρομαντείο της Αφύρας The ancients feared it as the gate of Hades, god of the underworld; for visitors today the Nekromanteio of Afyra (% ; adult 2; h8.30am-3pm) is just the labyrinthine ruin at the end of a beautiful boat ride down the coast and up the Aherondas River. To ancient Greeks, the Nekromanteio was an oracle: pilgrims made offerings of milk, honey and the blood of sacrificed animals in order to communicate with the spirits of the dead. The remnants of the structure were only discovered in 1958, and with them also the ruined monastery of Agios Ioannis Prodromos and a graveyard. The eerie underground vault is probably the place into which confused ancient visitors were lowered by windlass, thinking that they were entering the realm of Hades itself. Parga travel agents offer a Nekromanteio day trip, which costs about 10. Otherwise, drive south towards Mesopotamos (19km), and watch for the Nekromanteio sign. The site is 1km off the main road. IGOUMENITSA ΗΓΟΥΜΕΝΙΤΣΑ pop 9104 Igoumenitsa (ih-goo-meh-nit-sah) is the end of the line for northwestern Greece, a busy, characterless port town 86km from Ioannina. It s where you take the ferry to Italy or Corfu. NORTHERN GREECE

180 Lonely Planet Publications 344 EPIROS Igoumenitsa Book accommodation online at EPIROS Igoumenitsa 345 NORTHERN GREECE Although Igoumenitsa is no tourist destination, the completion of the Egnatia Odos highway, linking Igoumenitsa with İstanbul, will enhance its stature as a leading cargo port. Orientation Ferries for Italy and Corfu leave from three adjacent but separate quays on the Ethnikis Andistasis waterfront. Ferries for Ancona and Venice (in Italy) depart from the new, southern port; those for Brindisi and Bari (in Italy) use the old port by the shipping offices; and ferries for Corfu (Kerkyra) and Paxi go from just north of the new port. The bus station is on Kyprou, two blocks behind the waterfront. IGOUMENITSA 3 14 Ionian Sea 13 To Post Office (800m); Drepanos Camping (6km); Ioannina (86km) 8 1 Ethnikis Andistasis Mihala Vyronos 11 Evangelistrias Agion 9 Tsaldari Zalongou Apostolon Dekemvriou Elinas 4 2 Xanthou Kyprou Evrias m miles Pan Tsaldari H Trikoupi INFORMATION Café Akadimia... 1 A1 EOT...(see 13) Milano Travel... 2 A4 Port Police... 3 A3 Tourist Police... 4 A4 SLEEPING Hotel Aktaion... 5 A4 Jolly Hotel... 6 A3 Rooms to Let... 7 A4 EATING Alekos... 8 A1 TRANSPORT ANEK Lines... 9 A2 Bus Station A2 Ferries to Corfu & Paxi A4 Minoan Lines A3 New Port Ferry Terminal.. 13 A4 Old Port Ferry Terminal A3 Ventouris Ferries...(see 2) Apodimon Pargas Thesproton To Agoudimos Lines (200m); Blue Star Ferries (200m); Endeavor Lines (200m); Superfast Ferries (200m); Camping Kalami (8km); Parga (45km) Information Ethnikis Andistasis hosts currency-exchange machines and major-bank ATMs. The new port has more exchange booths. An EOT booth is outside the new port s arrivals area. Café Akadimia (% ; Ethnikis Andistasis 80; per hr 2.50; h8am-2am) Has internet. Milano Travel (% ; milantvl@otenet.gr; Agion Apostolon 11b) Police (% ; Agion Apostolon 5) Both the tourist and regular police are together on the main road near the port. Port police (% ) Beside the old port ferry terminal. Post office (% ; Tzavelenas 2) Eight hundred metres north of town. Sleeping & Eating Igoumenitsa s identity as a merely functional town has rubbed off on its limited accommodation and eating options, but you probably won t stay long enough to let it depress you. Rooms to Let (% ; Xanthou 12; s/d 30/40) Proximity to the ferry is the major selling point for these plain, drab rooms. Hotel Aktaion (%/fax ; Agion Apostolon 17; s/d 40/50) and Jolly Hotel (% ; jollyigm@otenet.gr; Ethnikis Andistasis 44; 55/65) are both waterfront C-class hotels with uninspiring yet quiet rooms. Alekos (% ; Ethnikis Andistasis 84; mains ) This humble taverna serves mayirefta and grilled meat. Getting There & Away BUS From the bus station (% ; Kyprou 29) there are bus services to Ioannina ( 8.20, two hours, nine daily), Parga ( 5.20, one hour, four daily), Athens ( 32.60, eight hours, five daily), Preveza ( 8.50, 2½ hours, two daily) and Thessaloniki ( 30.20, eight hours, one daily). Note these buses are less frequent out of high season. FERRY Corfu Ferries to Corfu Town run hourly between 5am and 10pm ( 6, 1¾ hours). Ferries also go to Lefkimmi in southern Corfu ( 4.50, one hour, six daily) and Paxi ( 7, 1¾ hours, three weekly). Agency booths opposite the quay sell tickets, and you can also call an Englishspeaking operator with questions about Igoumenitsa Corfu ferries (% ). FERRY SERVICES TO/FROM IGOUMENITSA Destination Company Duration Fare Frequency Ancona ANEK Lines 14hr 70 daily Minoan Lines 14hr 74 daily Superfast Ferries 14hr 74 daily Bari Minoan Lines 9hr 68 daily Agoudimos Lines 9½hr 60 daily Ventouris Ferries 10hr 64 daily Brindisi Agoudimos Lines 6½hr 56 daily Endeavor Lines 6hr 50 daily Venice ANEK Lines 18hr weekly Minoan Lines 18hr weekly Hydrofoils to/from Corfu and Paxi usually run in summer; check locally. Croatia To get from Igoumenitsa to Croatia by boat, you must go to Italy first. Go to Bari to catch a boat for Dubrovnik, and to Ancona for ferries to Split, Zadar and Rijeka. The table above refers to one-way, deckclass passenger ticket prices in high season (1 August to 6 September). Fares, and frequency, drop at other times. Return tickets are 30% cheaper than two one-way tickets. Italy For ferries to Italy, you can usually just show up in Igoumenitsa and buy an onward passenger ticket, though you ll want to book ahead for car tickets. Baseline vehicle sample fares include Bari ( 40), Brindisi ( 45) and Ancona/Venice ( 136). Boats generally leave mornings and evenings. Be at the port two hours before departure, and check in at the shipping agent s office for your boarding pass. On-board camping is allowable on certain services for those with campervans. Book tickets at portside agencies or through the ferry companies offices/websites. Agoudimos Lines (% ; -lines.com; Agion Apostolon 147) ANEK Lines (% ; Revis Travel Tourism & Shipping, Ethnikis Andistasis 34) Endeavor Lines (% ; -lines.com; Eleni Pantazi General Tourism Agency, Ioniou Pelagous) Minoan Lines (% ; Ethnikis Andistasis 58a) Superfast Ferries (% ; Pitoulis & Co Ltd, Agion Apostolon 147) Ventouris Ferries (% ; Milano Travel, Agion Apostolon 11b) Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content. NORTHERN GREECE

181 SARONIC GULF ISLANDS Lonely Planet Publications 346 AEGINA 347 S a r o n i c G u l f I s l a n d s Νησιά του Σαρωνικού The Saronic Gulf Islands pepper the great waterway south of Athens like colourful stepping stones to the wider Aegean world. The most accessible islands of the group, Salamina, Aegina and Angistri, are just a short ferry-hop from the mainland. Salamina, the most accessible, is too easily dismissed as a mere suburb of Athens; yet this historic island boasts quiet rural areas and a few modest beaches to fit the island idyll. Next comes brash and cheerful Aegina, just an hour south from Piraeus by hydrofoil, while near-neighbour Angistri is a genuine holiday island, but with reassuring corners of tranquillity, even in high season. Further south again is Poros, a popular weekend escape for Athenians, yet still within a few hundred metres of the Peloponnese and with a peaceful hinterland. Next comes the Saronic diva, Hydra, where tiers of pastel-hued houses rise majestically from a harbourside that is always bustling with life. Deepest south of all is pine-scented Spetses, nudged up against the mainland also, yet with an alluring sense of escape from the mainstream. There are decent beaches on all of the Saronics, with Angistri and Spetses having the best of the bunch. The islands do not boast a great number of architectural glories, although Aegina s Temple of Aphaia is a premier site. If beaches and ancient sites are not your sole interests, then the Saronics offer authentic and rewarding Greek island experiences within easy reach of Athens. HIGHLIGHTS Ancient Awe Exploring Aegina s glorious history at the superb Temple of Aphaia ( p351 ) Tasteful Taverna Going the distance for modern Greek cuisine in the top-end restaurants on Hydra ( p358 ) or Spetses ( p362 ) Dolphin Encounter Diving near Hydra on a non-intrusive dolphin safari ( p357 ) Walk on the Wild Side Heading inland from Hydra Town ( p356 ) or Spetses Town ( p361 ) for a more rustic Greece experience Fictional Feast Curling up amid the pines of Spetses ( p359 ) with John Fowles erotically charged The Magus POPULATION: 45,600 Spetses Town AREA : 318 SQ KM Temple of Aphaia Poros Hydra Town SARONIC GULF ISLANDS 0 16 km To Corinth (20km) To Nafplio (25km) Argolic Gulf To Leonidio (25km); Monemvasia (82km) Spetses (p360) Epidavros Spetsopoula Spetses Town ATTICA Megara Skala Angistri Gulf of Epidavros Ermioni Kranidi Porto Heli Kosta Diaporioi Kira Ypsili Methana PELOPONNESE 0 10 miles Straits of Salamina Salamina Paloukia Perama Saronic Gulf Souvala Agia Marina Aegina Town Aegina Moni (p348) Poros (p353) Poros Town Piraeus Gulf of Hydra Cape Dokos Zourvas Hydra Town Trikeri Salamina Hydra (p356) Cape Spathi M Y R T O Ö N S E A GETTING THERE & AWAY Ferry The Saronic Gulf Islands have one of the best ferry networks across Greece, with several fast hydrofoil and catamaran services racing to and from Piraeus at regular intervals every day. Slower conventional ferries operate several times a day to and from Aegina, Poros, Methana and Hydra in high season and less so in winter. There is currently one daily service to Spetses throughout the year. You should always check details close to the date of your planned trip. The following times and prices are for conventional ferries. FERRIES FROM PIRAEUS GREAT HARBOUR Destination Duration Fare Frequency Aegina 1hr 10min 8 8 daily Angistri 2hr daily Poros 2½hr daily Hydra 3hr 10min daily Spetses 4½hr daily Hydrofoil & Catamaran Hellenic Seaways (% ; seaways.gr) operates a busy schedule to the islands and the nearby Peloponnesian ports with its Flying Dolphin hydrofoils and Flying Cat catamarans. See the destination sections for full details. Euroseas (% /6) runs a daily service from Piraeus to Hydra, Poros and Spetses. Recent newcomer Aegean Flying Dolphins (% ), whose hydrofoils have a distinctive blue and yellow livery compared with the Hellenic Dolphins red, white and blue, runs a similar service to the same destinations as Hellenic Seaways. Prices are about 1 less. All services depart from the Great Harbour at Piraeus. Tours Cruise ships offer daily cruises from Piraeus to the islands of Aegina, Poros and Hydra. The cruises leave Piraeus at 9am, returning at about 7pm, and allow for about one hour on shore at each island long enough for snaps, snacks and souvenirs. See p129 for more information about these tours. The official price is 93, including buffet lunch, but there are bargain-deal tickets if you book through your hotel. Introduced in 2007, easycruise ( cruise.com) runs several Greek Island cruises, including three-night midweek minibreaks from Piraeus to Poros and Spetses and back. It costs from per person (high season from 79.50). Longer cruises to the Cyclades and to a mix of the Saronics and Cyclades are also available. AEGINA ΑΙΓΙΝΑ pop 10,500 Aegina (eh-yi-nah) rocks with a rough-andready charm. It has less of a tourist sheen than most holiday islands, due in part to its substantial agricultural and commercial sectors and its proximity to the mainland. Athenian weekenders sharpen the mix. By the 7th century BC, Aegina was the leading maritime power of the region and had amassed wealth through trade. The island made a major contribution towards the Greek victory over the Persian fleet at the Battle of Salamis in 480 BC. In spite of this generous support, Athens, grown jealous of Aegina s status and of its liaison with Sparta, invaded SARONIC GULF ISLANDS

182 348 AEGINA Getting There & Away AEGINA Aegina Town 349 SARONIC GULF ISLANDS in 459 BC. Aegina never regained its previous glories although in the early 19th century it played a bold part in the defeat of the Turks and was the temporary capital of a partly liberated Greece from 1827 to Today the island plays a more mundane role as Greece s main producer of pistachio nuts. The ghosts of greater days still invest Aegina with romance, however, not least at the splendid ruin of the Temple of Aphaia, built soon after the Battle of Salamis. There are modest beaches too and an enjoyable taverna and nightlife scene. Getting There & Away FERRY There are several ferries a day between Piraeus and Aegina Town ( 7.80, one hour 10 AEGINA Cape Plakakia To Angistri (See Inset) (6.5km) To Piraeus (30km) Livadi Temple of Apollo Aegina Town Moni To Methana (20km); Poros (27km); Hydra (56km); Spetses (84km) Kypseli Marathonas Perdika Moni Agiou Nektariou Pahia Rahi Sfendouri Souvala Vathy Cape Pyrgos Paleohora minutes). There are also services from June to September between Piraeus and Agia Marina ( 8.50, one hour) and Souvala ( 7.40, one hour 35 minutes). Schedules should always be checked in advance. There are at least four boats daily to Poros ( 7.30, 50 minutes) via Methana ( 4.90, 40 minutes), two daily to Hydra ( 9.20, two hours) and one to Spetses ( 12.80, three hours). Tickets can be bought at the departure quays at Piraeus and at Aegina Town, where there are lists of daily sailings. A small ferry makes several trips between Aegina and Angistri s main port of Skala ( 5, 20 minutes, three daily). It leaves from midway along the harbour front and timetables are displayed there. To Piraeus (23km) Mt Paliomyli (300m) Aegina Moni Hrysoleontissas Agii Mt Nikolaki (451m) Hellenic Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre Mt Oros (532m) Haldeika Anitseo Saronic Gulf Temple of Aphaia Mesagros Portes Vlahides Alones Gianakides Agia Marina 0 2 km 0 1 mile Vaia Saronic Gulf Milos (Megalochori) Lalares Dhragonera Angistri Limenaria Skala Metohi Same Scale as Main Map Cape Tourlos To Piraeus (28km) Angistri Halikadha A SALAMINA SAGA The famous sea battle of 480 BC between Greeks and Persians (see p33 ), in the murky channel that separates the Greek mainland and the island of Salamina, has been billed as the Greatest Battle of the Ancient World. The odds were certainly great. A mere 371 Greek ships (triremes) routed a Persian fleet of Thus Salamina, one of the least touristed islands in Greece, can rest on its historic laurels. If you have time to spare in Athens, it s worth making the trip to Salamina (population 23,000) by public transport, or by bike. The first part of the trip gives a vivid insight into how Athens triumphs over its urban gridlock. You begin the trail outside Monastiraki metro station by catching a Perama-bound bus ( 0.50, 40 minutes). It s an entertaining dash along narrow roads jammed with traffic and overshadowed by buildings. Car ferries run all night from Perama to Paloukia, Salamina s port; but catch the smaller passenger ferry ( 0.70, 15 minutes) across this historic strait for a mind s-eye view of ghostly triremes and the chaos of that ancient sea battle. If you re biking, head off into Salamina s surprisingly green interior and quiet coastal areas with their handful of small beaches. Otherwise catch a short bus ride to the island s modest capital of Koulouri, or to the equally modest resort of Selinia, from where you can catch a ferry directly back to Piraeus. (Note, there were forest fires on Salamina during Areas affected were around Selinia and around Batsi on the north coast.) HYDROFOIL & CATAMARAN There are no fast services south from Aegina to Poros, Hydra or Spetses. Hellenic Seaways (% ; seaways.gr) operates its Flying Dolphins ( 12, 35 minutes) almost hourly from early morning to mid-evening between Piraeus and Aegina. Tickets can be bought at the departure quays at Piraeus and Aegina Town. Aegean Flying Dolphins (% ) runs a similar schedule as Hellenic Seaways between Aegina and Piraeus, with prices being about 1 less. They continue to Angistri ( 4.50, 10 minutes, two to four times daily). Getting Around Buses run frequently between Aegina Town and Agia Marina ( 2, 30 minutes), via Paleohora and the Temple of Aphaia. Other buses go to Perdika ( 1.20, 15 minutes) and Souvala ( 1.40, 20 minutes). Departure times are displayed outside the ticket office on Ethnegersias and you must buy tickets at the booth. There are numerous places in Aegina that hire cars and motorcycles. Advertised prices start at around 40 to 45 a day for a car and 15 to 20 a day for a 50cc machine. There is not much discounting, even out of season. AEGINA TOWN pop 7410 Aegina Town has a gritty engaging charm. Athenians visit regularly and many have holiday homes on the island. Foreign visitors are not too common. The town is the capital and main port, and its long harbour front fizzes with life. The two-lane road is a bit of a speedway, so take care when crossing. Canopied cafés, packed with cheerfully voluble locals, line the inland promenade. Narrow lanes lead inland from here across streets that are more reminiscent of downtown Athens and are crammed with everyday shops. A few crumbling neoclassical buildings survive from the town s heyday as the Greek capital. Orientation The large outer quay, with its little church of St Nikolaos, is where the bigger ferries dock. The smaller inner quay is where hydrofoils come in. Crossing the road and heading left from the end of either quay leads to Ethnegersias, where the bus terminal and post office are located. This road then continues on to the Temple of Apollo and the north coast. Turning right from the end of the quays leads along the busy harbour front for about 500m to the Church of Panagytsa and then on to Perdika and Agia Marina. Information Aegina does not have an official tourist office, but you can find some useful information at Alpha Bank and the Bank of Piraeus are located opposite the end of the hydrofoil quay. The National Bank of Greece is about 300m SARONIC GULF ISLANDS

183 350 AEGINA Aegina Town Book accommodation online at ANGISTRI 351 SARONIC GULF ISLANDS to the right of the ferry quays. All the banks have ATMs. Kalezis Bookshop (% ) Midway along the harbour front; has a selection of foreign newspapers and books. Port police (% ) At the entrance to the ferry quay. Post office ( Ethnegersias; h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Surf and Play (% ; Afeas 42; per 30min 2; h9am-late) Hot spot with fast connections, photo printing, burning. Located several blocks inland from Hotel Pavlou ( below ). Tourist police (% ; Leonardou Lada) Opposite the ferry quay. Sights The solitary surviving Doric column of the Temple of Apollo (% ; adult/concession 3/2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) stands on the hill of Coloni, and is Aegina Town s significant ancient site. The column is all that s left of the 5th-century-BC temple, once part of an ancient acropolis. Just below is the Sanctuary Museum (admission 3; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), which displays artefacts from the temple. There are plans to move the exhibition to an expanded collection at the Capodistrias House, a onetime orphanage and later prison, about 1km east of the ferry quays. Sleeping Aegina has a fair selection of hotels and rooms, but it s advisable to book ahead, especially at weekends. Hotel Plaza (% ; s/d/tr 35/40/60) A decent budget option, the Plaza is 100m north of Ethnegersias. Its young owner took over a few years ago and has worked hard at brightening things up. Rooms are clean and are a reasonable size. Hotel Pavlou (% ; Aiginitou 21; s/d/tr 35/50/60) Well run by a cheerful no-nonsense family, the Pavlou s rooms are clean, if plain. They may offer you cheaper rooms at a less salubrious place, the Hotel Athina, about 750m inland. The Pavlou is just behind the Church of Panagitsa about 500m along the main harbour front from the ferry quays. Hotel Brown (% ; s/d/tr 60/75/100; pa) The name of this fine hotel relates to its owner, George Brown, a local who has an English grandfather. Rooms are comfortable and stylish and the bungalows are in a shaded garden. There s a generous buffet breakfast. The hotel is right at the far end of the harbour front. orastoni (% ; Metriti 31; d/ste 80/110; pa) Within easy walking distance of the harbour is this delightful hotel, styled with flair and with a relaxing atmosphere. Each room is themed with individual décor and there is a charming garden. There are discounts for several days stay. Breakfast is 5. Eating The inland side of the harbour front is packed with cafés and restaurants that steal most of the promenade. They make for lazy worldwatching, but are not particularly good value, unless you hit the local unvarnished ouzeries scattered throughout. obabis (% ; mains 5-12) A few metres beyond Hotel Brown, Babis has a stylish menu and décor. Cool colours enhance the interior and there s a pleasant beachside terrace across the road. Friendly service goes with some innovative dishes such as melt-in-the-mouth chicken with pistachio and unsalted cheese. Mezedopoleio To Steki (% ; Pan Irioti 45; seafood mezedhes 6-12) Seafood with attitude. This cramped, noisy, sunless, yet somehow vivid place is right behind the fish market, midway along the harbour front. Like its immediate neighbour I Agora, it s always packed with people tucking into hell-fired octopus ( 6) and sardines ( 5) or other mezedhes (appetisers). Romantic moments are not on the menu. Local pistachio nuts are on sale everywhere, priced from 6 for 500g. Entertainment Music bars and cafés along the harbour front vie with each other for the most luxurious seating. Yes! (% ; Dimokratias; h9am-3am) This modish place has easy-listening daytime sounds and sharper spins from local and visiting Athenian DJs at night and at weekends. There s a good selection of coffee, drinks, snacks and breakfasts. Avli (% ; Pan Irioti 17; h9am-3am) A favourite with a cooler, older crowd, Avli mixes 60s and Latin music and plays Greek sounds when weekenders hit town. Aegina has three outdoor cinemas. Of these the Akrogiali (% ; admission 8; hmid- Jun Aug) has the most attractive setting. It lies just outside town along the Perdika road and has a pretty garden setting. AROUND AEGINA Temple of Aphaia The impressive Temple of Aphaia (% ; adult/concession/under 18yr 4/2/free; h8am-7.30pm Apr- Oct) celebrates a local deity of pre-hellenic times and is the major ancient site of the Saronic Gulf Islands. It was built in 480 BC, soon after the Battle of Salamis. The temple s pediments were decorated with splendid Trojan War sculptures, most of which were robbed in the 19th century and now decorate Munich s Glyptothek. The temple is a compelling site and stands on a pine-covered hill with views over the Saronic Gulf as far as Cape Sounion. Aphaia is 10km east of Aegina Town. Buses to Agia Marina stop at the site ( 1.60, 20 minutes). A taxi from Aegina Town costs about 11. Paleohora Παλαιοχώρα The ancient town of Paleohora was Aegina s capital from the 9th century and throughout the medieval period and was only abandoned in the 1820s. It originated as a refuge from pirates who attacked vulnerable coastal settlements. The ruins of the settlement lie on a hillside 6.5km east of Aegina Town near the road to the Temple of Aphaia and Agia Marina. A side road to the site leads in about 500m from a left-hand junction with the main road about 4km from Aegina Town. There are extensive but vestigial ruins of Paleohora s domestic buildings, but numerous small chapels, most fairly intact, are dotted around the hillside. Remnants of frescoes can be seen in some and the Orthodox faithful still revere them as we should all do. Buses from Aegina Town to Agia Marina stop at the turn-off to Paleohora ( 1.20, 10 minutes). Perdika Πέρδικα The likable fishing village of Perdika lies about 9km south of town on the southern tip of the west coast. Its long seafront terrace is crammed with tavernas and bars. Perdika is also the caïque (little boat) departure point for the pleasant little island beach at Moni, a few minutes away. Perdika s harbour inlet is very shallow and swimming is not much fun. Instead, catch one of the regular caïques ( 3) from the harbour to Moni Islet. Once targeted as the site of an exclusive casino, it s now a nature reserve and has a magic tree-lined beach and summertime café. Peacocks and deer wander about peacefully. Make sure to catch the last boat back or you sleep with the peacocks. There are a couple of hotels and a few rooms in Perdika. Villa Rodanthos (% ; s/d 45/65) is a gem of a place, not least because of its charming and kindly owner. Each room has its own colourful décor and is equipped with a kitchen. There s a sunny roof patio balanced by an attractive basement lounge and bar. Villa Rodanthos is about 100m along the right-hand branch road opposite the bus stop at the edge of town. Tavernas line the harbour-front terrace and dish up Greek staples for about 5.50 to 9. Some places are getting a touch careless about quality, especially in low season when they really need to look after occasional visitors as much as the weekend high fliers. It all buzzes with life and colour in summer all the same, and the tavernas mix it with some swaggering late-night music bars. Buses run every couple of hours to Perdika from Aegina Town ( 1.20, 30 minutes). A taxi is 10 one way. es es are not Aegina s strong point. The east-coast town of Agia Marina is the island s main package resort. It has a shallow-water beach that is ideal for families, but it s backed by a fairly chic-less main drag and there s some high-decibel revelling during the summer. There are a couple of sandy beaches by the roadside between Aegina Town and Perdika, such as the pleasant Marathonas where the taverna Ammos (% ; Marathonas; mains ) offers excellent local dishes with an appealing international flair. Starters are imaginative, mains include specialities such as Chicken Marengo and fillet steaks in tasty sauces, and there s a great selection of seafood, and fish by the kilo. ANGISTRI ΑΓΚΙΣΤΡΙ pop 700 Angistri lies a tempting few kilometres off the west coast of Aegina. It s a rewarding day trip from the larger island, or a worthwhile longer escape from the mainstream, better so out of high season. The port of Skala is a resort village these days, crammed with small hotels and apartment SARONIC GULF ISLANDS

184 352 POROS Getting There & Away Book accommodation online at POROS Poros Town 353 SARONIC GULF ISLANDS blocks, tavernas and cafés. Its beach, the best on the island, all but disappears beneath sun loungers and a tide of tanning oil in July and August; but life, in general, still ticks along gently. Orientation & Information A right turn from Skala s ferry quay leads westwards to the small harbour beach and then along a paved walkway to a church on a low headland. Beyond here lies the long, but narrow, main beach. A kilometre further west takes you to Mylos (Megalochori), an attractive, small settlement with rooms and tavernas, but no beach. Turning left from the ferry quay takes you south in about half an hour to the pebbly and clothing-optional Halikadha. Above Skala, and now absorbed by it, is the old settlement of Metohi. Skala Tours (% ; pannek@aig.forthnet.gr) has an office in the main street, just inland from the main beach. It can help with accommodation and other services. There is a branch of Emboriki Bank just up from Skala Tours. It has an ATM, although you should bring enough cash, since it may dry up over busy holiday weekends. Sleeping & Eating There are dozens of sleeping places in Skala and its surroundings, but most are booked up in advance in high season and on summer weekends. If you want to stay for a couple of nights it s best to book ahead; otherwise, ask around or check through Skala Tours. Alkyoni Inn (% ; s/d/tr 35/55/65; hmid-apr Oct) The welcoming Alkyoni Inn is a 10-minute stroll east of the ferry quay. Its seafront rooms and apartments have great views. Other rooms back onto the road. The Alkyon has a popular taverna (mains 4.50 to 9) offering such delights as tuna salad, spaghetti with shrimps, and pork and chicken dishes in spicy sauces. There are tavernas that offer reasonable Greek standards at similar prices in Skala and at the beaches. Getting There & Away Two ferries a day run from Piraeus ( 8.80, two hours) via Aegina, and four fast ferries run during July and August ( 12.50, one hour). A small ferry makes several trips from Aegina to Angistri s main port of Skala ( 3, 20 minutes) and then on to neighbouring Mylos ( 3.20, 25 minutes). It leaves from midway along the harbour front and timetables are displayed there. Aegean Flying Dolphins (% ) has a Piraeus to Aegina service, which continues to Angistri two to four times a day ( 4.50, 10 minutes). Another option is the water taxi service (% , ; per trip 30) to Aegina. Getting Around About four buses a day run during the summer months from Skala and Mylos to the little village of Limenaria on the southeast coast. It s worth renting a moped ( 15) or sturdy mountain bike ( 9) to explore the island s coastline road. You can also follow tracks from Metohi overland through cool pine forest to reach the west coast beach of Dhragonera. Take a compass with you; the tracks divide often and route finding can be frustrating. POROS ΠΟΡΟΣ pop 4500 Unassuming Poros lies a few hundred metres from the village of Galatas on the shores of the mountainous Peloponnese, and its main settlement feels more like a lakeside resort than an island port. Poros is a rewarding holiday island with a refreshing sense of remoteness in its sparsely populated interior, although forest fires during 2007 took their toll on the southwestern coastal and inland area of Kalavria, the larger island of Poros that is separated from the town of Poros by a canal. The areas of Neorion and around Russian have been affected. Poros is made up of two islands: Kalavria and Sferia. An isthmus, cut by a narrow canal and spanned by a road bridge, connects them. Most people live on tiny Sferia, which is occupied mainly by the town of Poros. Sferia projects from the southern coast of Kalavria, a large, forested island, which has most of the bigger, seasonal hotels along its southern shore. Getting There & Away FERRY There are at least five ferries daily in summer and about four daily in winter, to and from Piraeus ( 11.60, 2½ hours), via Methana ( 3.40, 30 minutes) and Aegina ( 7.30, one hour 15 minutes), two daily to Hydra ( 6, 50 minutes), and one to Spetses ( 9.60, two hours). Family Tours (% ; handles tickets. Small boats shuttle constantly between Poros and Galatas ( 0.70, five minutes) on the mainland. They leave from the quay opposite Iroön in Poros Town. Car ferries to Galatas leave from the dock on the road to Kalavria. HYDROFOIL & CATAMARAN Hellenic Seaways ( has about eight services daily to and from Piraeus ( 19.30, one hour). Most outgoing ferries continue to Hydra ( 9.50, 30 minutes). These include the Flying Cat/Flying Dolphin that also continue to Spetses ( 15.50, one hour). Marinos Tours (% ; Iroön) sells tickets. Aegean Flying Dolphins (% ) runs a similar service to the same destinations as Hellenic Seaways and prices are about 1 less. Hellenic Sun Travel (% ; suntravel.com), opposite the ferry dock, is the local agent. POROS To Methana (10.5km); Aegina (27km); Piraeus (57km) Pogonos Port Poros Channel To Trizina (3.5km), Epidavros (46km); Corinth (110km) Cape Neda PELOPONNESE Akritsa Russian Bay Neorion Methanon Gulf Galatas To Ermioni (42km) Poros Town To Piraeus (53km) Kanali Sferia Getting Around A bus operates almost constantly on a route that starts near the main ferry dock on Iroön in Poros Town. It crosses to Kalavria and goes east along the south coast as far as Moni Zoödohou Pigis ( 1.10, 10 minutes), then turns around and heads west as far as Neorion ( 1.10, 15 minutes). Some of the caïques operating between Poros and Galatas switch to ferrying tourists to beaches during summer. Operators stand on the harbour front and call out destinations. There are several places on the road to Kalavria offering bikes for hire, both motorised and pedal-powered. Bikes start at 7 per day, and mopeds and scooters are 15 to 20. POROS TOWN pop 4102 Poros Town, with its whitewashed houses and red-tiled roofs, looks out towards the shapely mountains of the Peloponnese, a few kilometres across the water. Huge ferries glide through the channel to dock on the harbour front and smaller vessels scurry to and fro between the island and the mainland town of Temple of Poseidon Kalavria To Hydra (29km); Spetses (57km) Cape Aherado Saronic Gulf Moni Zoödohou Pigis 0 2 km 0 1 mile Cape Kalavria SARONIC GULF ISLANDS

185 354 POROS Poros Town Book accommodation online at HYDRA History 355 SARONIC GULF ISLANDS Galatas. Behind the harbour front, lanes and steps lead up to a maze of other lanes that link small squares and the focal points of a prominent clock tower and the cathedral. The town is a useful base from which to explore the ancient sites of the adjacent Peloponnese. Orientation The main ferry dock is at the western end of the town s long harbour front. A right turn from the ferry dock takes you across the road to the triangular open space of Iroön. To either side of the plateia (square) the road is lined with cafés, tavernas and tourist shops. The island bus leaves from next to the kiosk at the eastern end of Iroön. Steps lead up from the inner corner of the square to the attractive lanes and squares of the upper town and to the clock tower and cathedral. A short distance south of Iroön is Karamis, set back from the harbour-front road. A left turn from the dock leads along the extended harbour front and on to the Kalavria road. Information Poros does not have a tourist office, but you can find some useful information at Alpha Bank ( Iroön) ATM. Bank Emporiki ( Iroön) ATM. National Bank of Greece (Papadopoulou) About 100m from the dock; has ATM. Post office (% ; Karamis; h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Suzi s Laundrette Service (Papadopoulou;h8am- 2pm & 6-9pm Mon-Sat May-Oct, 9am-2pm Mon-Sat Nov-Apr) Next to the National Bank of Greece; 12 to wash and dry a 5kg load. Tourist police (% /22256; Dimosthenous 10) Behind the Poros high school. Sleeping Villa Tryfon (% /25854; villatryfon@poros.com.gr; off Agios Georgiou; s/d 40/55; a) Located high above the harbour front, Villa Tryfon has great views from the front rooms. All rooms have bathroom and kitchen facilities and the welcome is friendly. To get here, turn left from the ferry dock and after 80m turn right up broad steps next to the Family Tours office. Turn left at the top of the steps in front of the public library and after 150m you ll see the place signposted up the steps to the right. Seven Brothers Hotel (% ; Iroön; s/d/tr 55/65/75; ai) A good option at the heart of the harbour front near the hydrofoil dock, this modern hotel has bright comfy rooms with small balconies and teaand coffee-making facilities. Hotel Dionysos (% /22530; dionysos.com; Papadopoulou 78; s/d/tr 50/70/80; ai) This restored mansion retains some of its character, although it can feel a touch gloomy. The rooms are comfortable and are a decent size. It s located a couple of hundred metres to the left of the ferry quays and opposite where the car ferry from Galatas docks. Breakfast starts at 8. There s a separate café-bar on the ground floor, which has internet access (per hour 3). ECO SARONICS There are ups and downs to ecology and environmentalism in the Saronic Gulf Islands. The downs are often a genuine burning issue, as they are in many parts of Greece. Forest fires flare up accidentally, but in some parts of the country they have been caused by arsonists. Fires erupt especially in times of drought; remember the destruction of swathes of woodland on Salamina, Hydra and Poros in summer 2007 and in many other parts of Greece. On the upside, there s the sterling work of groups such as the Hellenic Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre (Elliniko Kentro Perithalpsis Agrion Zoön; % ; h10am-7pm) on the island of Aegina. The centre tackles the damage caused to thousands of Greece s wild birds and animals by hunting and by pollution. Some of its current projects are the release of raptors into the wilds of Crete and Northern Greece. You can pay a visit to the centre, which is about 10km southeast of Aegina Town and 1km east of Pahia Rahi on the road to Mt Oros. Admission is free, but donations are appreciated. And if you want a more hands-on commitment, the centre welcomes volunteers. Accommodation is supplied. Eating There s not much haute cuisine here, but there are some fine traditional tavernas with character to match the cooking. Taverna Kyriakos (% ; mains 2-6) Previously the Pantelis, this taverna is still a great calorie booster. Everything, including beer, is much cheaper than elsewhere. Greek salads are 4 and pastitsio (a macaroni and minced lamb dish) is 4. It s just along the alleyway between Seven Brothers Hotel and the fish market. Taverna Karavolos (% ; mains ; h7pm-late) Karavolos means big snail in Greek and is the nickname of the taverna s impressive owner. Small snails are a speciality of the house and are served in a thick tomato sauce ( 5). There s a daily selection of main courses such as pork stuffed with garlic ( 7). The home-produced wine is very persuasive. Head east from the cathedral for about 100 metres, then go left and down an alleyway towards the harbour. Taverna Rota (% ; Iroön; mains 5-14) The first of many tavernas along the harbour front where it runs northwest from Iroön, this is a reliable place that dishes up breakfast ( 4 to 6.50), traditional dishes and pasta and pizzas. odimitris Family Taverna (% ; mains ) The top-end price at this cheerful place reflects terrific meat dishes. The owners have a butcher s business, and cuts are of the very finest quality There are tasty pork, lamb and chicken dishes on offer. Honeymoon steak costs 22. Go to it. Vegetarians can still mix and match such treats as oven-baked vegetable casserole (briam), vegetables in olive oil, or butter beans in sauce with grilled peppers. To get here, head west from the cathedral for a couple of hundred metres. AROUND POROS Poros has a few beaches. Kanali, on Kalavria 1km east of the bridge, is pebbly. Neorion, 3km west of the bridge, has water skiing and banana boat and air chair rides. The best beach is at Russian Bay, 1.5km past Neorion. The 18th-century Moni Zoödohou Pigis, on Kalavria, has a beautiful gilded iconostasis from Asia Minor. The monastery is well signposted, 4km east of Poros Town. From the road below the monastery you can head inland to the 6th-century Temple of Poseidon. There s very little left of this temple, but the walk is worthwhile and there are superb views of the Saronic Gulf and the Peloponnese. From the ruins you can continue along the road and go back to the bridge onto Sferia. It s about 6km in total. PELOPONNESIAN MAINLAND The Peloponnesian mainland opposite Poros can be explored conveniently from the island. The ruins of ancient Troizen, legendary birthplace of Theseus, lie in the hills near the modern village of Trizina, 7.5km west of Galatas. There are buses to Trizina ( 1.20, 15 minutes) from Galatas, leaving a walk of about 1.5km to the site. The inspiring ancient theatre of Epidavros ( p187 ) can be reached from Galatas. A couple of buses depart daily from Galatas for Nafplio ( 7, two hours) and can drop you off at the ancient site. Getting There & Away Small boats run constantly between Galatas and Poros ( 0.70, five minutes). HYDRA ΥΔΡΑ pop 2900 Hydra (ee-dhr-ah) is the showcase of the Saronics and still wears its celebrity with style. The island s picturesque harbour attracts throngs of tourists, cruise passengers, yacht crews and the occasional celebrity on their way to hidden holiday homes among the tiers of picturesque buildings that rise above the harbour. You pay for the privilege of visiting, with inflated prices throughout, but the deal is still worthwhile. An undoubted bonus, for modern Greece, is the absence of scooters and screeching motorbikes from Hydra Town. The island has no motorised transport, except for sanitation and construction vehicles. Donkeys and mules are the main means of transport. Hydra suffered from devastating wildfires during the searingly hot summer of Most of the area to the east of Hydra Town was affected and there has been substantial tree loss. Hydra Town itself was untouched. History Hydra experienced only the light hand of an overstretched Ottoman influence. Consequently the island prospered. Enterprising Greeks from the Peloponnese settled here to escape Turkish repression and taxes on the mainland. Agriculture was difficult, so these new settlers began building boats and took SARONIC GULF ISLANDS

186 356 HYDRA Hydra Town HYDRA Hydra Town 357 SARONIC GULF ISLANDS HYDRA Kastelli Dokos To Ermioni (18km); Spetses (41km) To Spetses (21km); Porto Heli (26km) Petassi Pontikonissi Bisti Bay Kivotos Molos Bay Molos Cape Bisti Erimonisia Agios Alexandros Nikolaos Bay Episkopi Gulf of Hydra Kamini Vlyhos Kamini Hydra Vlyhos Moni Efpraxias to the thin line between maritime commerce and piracy. By the 19th century, Hydra had become a substantial maritime power, earning itself the ambivalent sobriquet of Little England. From considerable profits, wealthy shipping merchants built most of the town s grand old mansions. During the Greek War of Independence, Hydra supplied 130 ships for a blockade of the Turks. It also supplied leaders such as Georgios Koundouriotis, who was president of the emerging Greek nation s national assembly from 1822 to 1827, and Admiral Andreas Miaoulis, who commanded the Greek fleet. Streets and squares all over Greece are named after these two. Getting There & Away FERRY There is a daily ferry to/from Piraeus ( 12.50, three hours 10 minutes), which also sails to Poros ( 4.10, one hour), Methana ( 6.10, 1½ hours), Aegina ( 6.50, two hours) and Spetses ( 6, one hour). You can buy tickets from Idreoniki Travel (% ; opposite the ferry dock. HYDROFOIL & CATAMARAN Hellenic Seaways (% ; has about eight services daily to/from Piraeus ( 22, 1½ hours). Direct services take 1½ hours, but most go via Poros ( 9.50, one hour, 50 minutes). There are also frequent services to Poros ( 9.50, 30 minutes) and Spetses ( 11, 30 minutes), some of which call at Ermioni on Hydra Town Mt Eros (588m) To Poros (29km); Methana (39km) Aegina (56km); Piraeus (86km) Mandraki Bay Mandraki Ledeza Bay Moni Agios Moni Agias Nikolaos Cape Mavri Myti Matronis Limnioniza Moni Bay Profiti Ilias Mt Pyrgos (557m) Agios Mamas Moni Agios Triadas M Y R T O Ö N Cape Rigas 0 4 km 0 2 miles S E A Cape Maniati Moni Zourvas Zoödohou Pigis Bay Cape Zourvas the mainland, adding 20 minutes to the trip. Many of the services to Spetses continue on to Porto Heli ( 11.50, 50 minutes). Buy tickets from Idreoniki Travel. Euroseas (% ; runs two boats a day to Piraeus ( 21, one hour 20 minutes), Poros ( 8.50, one hour) and Spetses ( 10.70, 30 minutes). Tickets are bought from Saitis Tours (% ; saitisllours@otenet.gr) on the harbour front. Aegean Flying Dolphins (% ) runs a similar service to Hellenic Seaways and prices are about 1 less. Saitis Tours sells tickets. Getting Around In summer, there are caïques from Hydra Town to the island s beaches. There are also water taxis (% ), which will take you anywhere you like; examples are Kamini ( 9) and Vlyhos ( 12). The donkey owners clustered around the port charge around 15 to transport your bags to the hotel of your choice. HYDRA TOWN pop 2526 Hydra Town s showpiece harbour is backed by an amphitheatre of red-tiled houses with whitewashed and pastel-painted walls. The harbour front is usually thronged with ambling crowds, donkeys and mules. Smart yachts line the harbour front. Behind the harbour front, narrow, stepped streets and alleyways lead to still corners and cool squares, with a tempting rise towards the rock-studded slopes beyond. The streets that lead inland have numerous craft and clothes shops and galleries. Information There is no tourist office on Hydra but a very useful website is There is an ATM at Saitis Tours, on the harbour front. The post office (h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) is opposite the fish market on a small side street between the Bank Emporiki and the National Bank of Greece, both of which have ATMs. The tourist police (% ; Votsi; HYDRA TOWN 0 1 To Omilos (50m); Sunset (200m); Kamini (1.5km); Vlyhos (3km) Sahini Lignou 10 A 24 6 Port 7 16 Votsi To Kamini (800m) To Mandraki (2.5km) 3 Miaouli Rafalia 100 m miles Kiose Tombazi 2 B Papandreou Oikonomou INFORMATION Bank Emporiki... 1 B2 Flamingo Internet Café... 2 B2 National Bank of Greece... 3 A2 Post Office... 4 B2 Saitis Tours... 5 B2 Tourist Police... 6 A2 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Ecclesiastical Museum... 7 A2 Historical Archives Museum of Hydra... 8 B1 Idreoniki Travel... 9 B1 Lazaros Koundouriotis Historical To Hotel Aris (400m) Gika Kouloura 12 S Haramis 13 Sahtouri To Moni Profiti Ilia (2km) hmid-may end Sep) can be found sharing an office with the regular police. There are toilets alongside the fish market. You can check at the Flamingo Internet Café (% ; Tombazi; per 30 min 4; h8.30am- 10pm). Sights & Activities The star attraction is the grand Lazaros Koundouriotis Historical Mansion (% ; nhmuseum@tee.gr; adult/concession 4/2; h9am-4pm Tue- Sun), former home of one of the major players in the Greek Independence struggle. It s a fine example of late-18th-century traditional architecture. The main reception rooms of the 2nd floor have been restored to their full splendour, furnished with all the finery of the period. The Historical Archives Museum of Hydra (% ; museumhy@otenet.gr; adult/child 3/1.50; h9am-4.30pm & pm Jul-Oct, 9am-4.30pm Nov-Jun) is close to the ferry dock on the eastern side of the harbour. It houses a collection of portraits and naval oddments, with an emphasis on the island s role in the War of Independence. The Ecclesiastical Museum (% ; admission 2; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct), upstairs at the Monastery of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, houses a collection of icons and assorted religious paraphernalia. The entrance is through the archway beneath the clock tower on the harbour front. The monastery courtyard, cathedral and associated buildings offer a peaceful sanctuary. Kallianos Diving Center (% ; divingcenter.gr) is based at the island of Kapari, south of Ermioni on the mainland. The centre offers a broad range of diving activities including a two-dive outing with full equipment supplied for 80, or 125 with instructor. Staff runs a once-monthly Diving with Dolphins Mansion A3 Isalos Café B1 Market B2 SLEEPING O Fournos A2 Bahia B2 Taverna Gitoniko B3 Hotel Bratsera B2 Hotel Dina B2 ENTERTAINMENT Hotel Leto B3 Amalour B2 Hotel Miranda B3 Pirate A2 Hotel Orloff A3 Saronikos A2 Pension Alkionides B2 Pension Erofili B2 TRANSPORT Ferry Quay B1 EATING Hydrofoils and Catamarans B2 Bratsera...(see 12) Water Taxis B2 SARONIC GULF ISLANDS

187 358 HYDRA Hydra Town Book accommodation online at SPETSES 359 SARONIC GULF ISLANDS trip starting at 200, with a 50% refund if the dolphins don t turn up. The centre does pick up and return to Hydra, and non-divers can also take the trip to Kapari ( 15). Festivals & Events Hydriots celebrate their contribution to the War of Independence struggle by staging a mock battle in Hydra harbour during the Miaoulia Festival, held in honour of Admiral Miaoulis, in late June. Much carousing, feasting and fireworks accompany it. Easter is also celebrated in colourful fashion. Sleeping Accommodation in Hydra is of a generally high standard. You pay accordingly. These prices are for high season, which in Hydra means weekends as well as July and August. Most owners will meet you at the harbour if pre-arranged and will organise luggage transfer. BUDGET Pension Erofili (%/fax ; Tombazi; s/d/tr 45/55/65; a) Tucked away in the inner town, these pleasant, unassuming rooms are a decent budget deal for Hydra. The young family owners add a friendly sparkle. It also has a large family room with private kitchen. Hotel Dina (% ; Stavrou Tsipi; s/d/tr 45/60/78) An engagingly old-fashioned place, Hotel Dina has dated but reasonable rooms, several with views. It s tucked away up a steep, narrow alleyway off Sahtouri and is a Greek-speaking household. Bahia (% , ; Oikonomou; s/d 50/60; a) Located above an inter est ing clothes and jewellery shop called Alexander, this place has reason able rooms with kitchen. MIDRANGE Pension Alkionides (%/fax ; ideshydra.com; off Oikonomou; s/d/tr 60/65/80; a) The Alkionides is in a peaceful cul-de-sac and has a pretty courtyard. Rooms are smart, though some are quite small, and they have tea- and coffee-making facilities. Hotel Aris (% , ; -hydra.com; s/d incl breakfast 60/80; a) Close proximity to Hydra s rock-studded slopes adds to the peace and quiet of this charming hotel. Rooms are comfortable and a good size. There s a lovely roof terrace with great views over the town. TOP END Hotel Miranda (% /53953; hotel.gr; Miaouli; s/d/tr incl breakfast 93/118/171; hmar mid-oct; a) Built in 1810 by a wealthy Hydriot sea captain, the Miranda was converted to a hotel in Wood beams and coved ceilings of the original construction survive and the ceilings retain the original motifs that were painted by Italian artists hired by many of Hydra s wealthy households. The mood is restrained and gracious and captures a flavour of old Hydriot life. Breakfast is enjoyed on a charming patio. Hotel Leto (% ; off Miaouli; s incl breakfast , d , tr from 188; ai) Smoothly modern and relaxing, this is one of Hydra s classiest hotels. Rooms are spacious and have subtle décor. Leto also has a fully equipped room for disabled use. The price ranges depend on such variables as room size, balconies and floor location. Buffet breakfast is included and there s a fitness studio, sauna and bar. Hotel Orloff (% ; Rafalia; s/d incl breakfast 165/185; a) Hydra history and tradition invest this beautiful old mansion with great taste and style. A Russian admiral of the 18th century gave his name to the original house. The comfortable rooms have elegant furnishings and there s a lovely garden in which buffet breakfast is served. Hotel Bratsera (% ; Tombazi; d incl breakfast , ste incl breakfast ; as) There s a pleasingly rustic feel to the décor of this spacious hotel, which merges the best of the new with decorative antiques and period details. There s a swimming pool for guests only, but you can take a dip if you eat at Bratsera s restaurant ( opposite ). Eating Some of the cafés along the harbour front push their luck with their high prices/low service; but if you want lively people-watching you pay the price. A good bet is the Isalos Café (% ) right by the ferry dock, offering decent snacks and drinks at reasonable prices. Taverna Gitoniko/Manolis & Christina (% ; Spilios Haramis; mains 4-9) When a taverna is better known by the Christian names of its owners it says something about quality and family tradition. Classic Greek favourites are well prepared at Gitoniko and there s a pleasant roof garden. Try the delicious zucchini balls and spinach pies or fresh green beans in oil with fava and tomato sauce. Bratsera (% ; Tombazi; mains ; h1-4pm & 8-11pm Apr-Oct) There s fine Mediterranean cuisine by the pool at this restaurant, which is attached to the hotel of the same name. Starters include feta with sesame and honey, and the spinach salad, with bacon, pine nuts and olive oil and lemon dressing, is delicious. Mains include treats like veal fillet with rosemary sauce and fresh salmon, when available; there s also a selection of imaginative pasta dishes. Wine ranges from 20 for a decent Cabernet to 56 for Chardonnay. Sunset (% ; mains ) An outstanding location on a huge terrace overlooking the sea makes this restaurant a great favourite. The food lives up to the view, with such starters as mackerel salad ( 6.50) and mains such as grilled sea bream (tsipoura) marinated in herbs, or tagliatelli with wild porcini (mushrooms). The wine list matches the food with the likes of Boutaris white ( 17) and Château Semeli red ( 67). There s a supermarket, fruit shop and fish market just inland, mid-harbour side. O Fournos is a good bakery next to the Pirate club across the alleyway. Entertainment Hydra s harbour front revs up at night, when daytime cafés become hot music bars. Most bars are at the far end of the harbour, where places like Pirate (% ) and Saronikos (% ) keep going until dawn. Most play lounge sounds by day; at night Pirate plays rock, while Saronikos goes more Greek pop. A few blocks inland from the harbour front the cooler, celebrity-honed Amalour (% ; Tombazi) does a lively line in cocktails and smoothies to a Latin rhythm. About 100m beyond the western edge of the harbour is the waterside Omilos (% ), the old Lagoudera Club, which has been transformed into a chic café, restaurant and night-time dance zone with eclectic DJs. AROUND HYDRA Hydra s stony, arid interior, now with some regenerating pine woods, makes a robust but peaceful contrast to the clamour of the quayside catwalk, although the eastern part of the island may take some time to recover from the fires of Heading up Miaouli and onward, there s a strenuous but worthwhile 2km walk up to Moni Profiti Ilia. Monks still live in the monastery, from where there are grand views down to the port. It s a short walk from the monastery to the convent of Moni Efpraxias. Other paths and tracks lead over and down to the south coast, while you can stroll up to the top of Mt Eros (588m), the highest point in the Saronic islands. Hydra s shortcoming or blessing is its lack of appealing beaches to draw the crowds. There are a few strands all the same. Kamini, about a 1.5km walk along the coastal path from the port, has rocks and a very small pebble beach. Vlyhos, a 1.5km walk further on from Kamini, is an attractive village offering a slightly larger pebble beach, two tavernas and a ruined 19th-century stone bridge. A path leads east from the port to the reasonable pebble beach at Mandraki, 2.5km away. Bisti Bay, 8km away on the southwestern side of the island, has a decent pebble beach. Water taxis from the port to various beaches cost about 12. SPETSES ΣΠΕΤΣΕΣ pop 4000 Open water runs far to the south of Spetses and, although the mainland Peloponnese is only a few kilometres away, there s a stronger sense of island Greece here than in other Saronic Gulf destinations. The novelist John Fowles used the island as the setting for his powerful book The Magus (1965). His portrayal of lascivious heat and pine-scented seduction probably sent many a northern European hotfooting it to the beautiful south on their first Greek island idyll. Long before Fowles day, Spetses, like Hydra, grew wealthy from shipbuilding. Island captains busted the British blockade during the Napoleonic Wars and refitted their ships to join the Greek fleet during the War of Independence. In the process they immortalised one local woman, albeit from a Hydriot family, the formidable Laskarina Bouboulina, ship s commander and fearless fighter (see p362 ). The island s forests of Aleppo pine, a legacy of the far-sighted and wealthy philanthropist Sotirios Anargyrios, were devastated by fires in 1990 and Many trees survive, however, and the burnt areas are slowly recovering. SARONIC GULF ISLANDS

188 360 SPETSES Getting There & Away SPETSES Spetses Town 361 SARONIC GULF ISLANDS SPETSES Argolic Gulf Cape Zogheria Zogheria Agia Paraskevi Agii Anargyri Analipsis Vrellas Zoödohos Pigi Anargyrios was born on Spetses in 1848 and emigrated to the USA, returning in 1914 as a very rich man. He bought two-thirds of the then largely barren island and planted the pines that stand today. Anargyrios also financed the Spetses road network and commissioned many of the town s grand buildings. Getting There & Away FERRY From June to September there is one ferry a day to and from Piraeus ( 15.30, four hours). The rest of the year one ferry runs on Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday. The ferry goes to and from Hydra ( 6.50, one hour), Poros ( 9.10, two hours) and Aegina ( 12.10, three hours). You ll find departure times on the harbour front outside Alasia Travel (% ; which sells tickets. It s wise to check the situation regarding both summer and winter schedules for these ferries. There are water taxis to Kosta ( 16, 15 minutes), on the Peloponnese mainland. A larger ferry runs to Kosta about four times daily ( 0.90, 10 minutes). There are three Ligoneri 245m Anargyrios & Korgialenios College Spetses Moni Elonas To Porto Heli (9km) Xylokeriza 0 2 km 0 1 mile DAPIA KASTELLI Spetses Town Dapia Harbour Moni Agios Nikolaos Spetsopoula To Kosta (3.5km) Baltiza Agia Marina Old Harbour M Y R T O Ö N S E A To Ermioni (25km) To Hydra (28km); Poros (57km); Aegina (84km); Piraeus (114km) buses daily from Kosta to Nafplio ( 6.30, 2¼ hours). HYDROFOIL & CATAMARAN Hellenic Seaways (% ; seaways.gr) runs at least six services a day to and from Piraeus ( 29.50, two hours 10 minutes). Most services travel via Hydra ( 10, 30 minutes) and Poros ( 14, 70 minutes). There are also daily connections to Ermioni ( 7, one hour) and Porto Heli ( 5, 10 minutes). Tickets are available from Bardakos Tours (% ; Dapia Harbour), located opposite the water taxis. Euroseas (% ; runs two boats to and from Piraeus ( 30, two hours 10 minutes), via Hydra ( 10.70, 30 minutes) and to Porto Heli ( 5, 10 minutes). Tickets are bought from Mimoza Travel (% ; mimoza-kent@aig.forthnet.gr), which is on the harbour front just past Limenarhiou. Aegean Flying Dolphins (% ) runs a similar service to the same destinations as Hellenic Seaways and prices are about 1 less. Alasia Travel (% ; sells tickets. Getting Around Spetses has two bus routes that start over the Easter period, then continue, depending on demand, until the end of May. From June to September there are three or four buses daily. The routes are from Agiou Mama in Spetses Town to Agii Anargyri ( 2.70, 40 minutes), travelling via Agia Marina and Xylokeriza. All departure times are displayed on a board by the bus stop. There are also hourly buses in summer (every two hours in winter) to Ligoneri ( 1.20). They leave from in front of the Hotel Possidonion, the monumental old building (being renovated at the time of writing) on the seafront just to the northwest of Dapia Harbour. Only locally owned vehicles are allowed on Spetses. There are not too many of these, although the number is increasing. Hundreds of scooters and motorbikes making a racket more than make up for it. There are motorbike-rental shops everywhere; rental is around 15 to 20 per day. For quieter pedal power, there are sturdy bikes ( 7 per day) at Mountain Bikes (% ), 100m beyond Agiou Mama. Bikes ( 6 per 24 hours) to suit all ages, as well as baby seats, are also for hire from the Bike Center (% ; h9.30am-9.30pm), behind the fish market. Spetses horse-drawn carriages are a more expensive way of getting around ( 8 one way to Old Harbour). Prices should be displayed on a board on Limenarhiou by the port. CAÏQUE In summer, there are caïques from the harbour to Agioi Anargyri ( 8 return), Zogheria ( 6 return) and Kosta ( 3 one way), per person. WATER TAXI Water taxis (% ; Dapia Harbour) leave from the quay opposite the Bardakos Tours office. Fares are displayed on a board. Sample oneway fares include 25 to Agia Marina and 48 to Agii Anargyri, or 63 for a round trip of the island. Fares are per trip, not per person. Add 50% to the price from midnight to 6am. SPETSES TOWN pop 3550 Spetses Town occupies a long stretch of the northeast coast of the island and its houses rise steeply from behind the main Dapia Harbour and harbour-front area. There s evidence of an early Helladic settlement near the Old Harbour (Palio Limani) and at Dapia. Roman and Byzantine remains have been found in the area behind Moni Agios Nikolaos, halfway between the two. From the 10th century Spetses is thought to have been uninhabited for almost 600 years until the arrival of Albanian refugees fleeing the fighting between the Turks and the Venetians in the 16th century. The Dapia district has a few impressive arhontika (old mansions). The main part of town is given over to chic tourist shops and cafés. There are some delicious ironies, not least the juxtaposition of the cheerfully whiffy fish market with fashion shops selling such fragrant lines as Danoff, Clink, Zulu and Trussardi. A kilometre or so along the eastern harbour front takes you to the attractive Old Harbour (Palio Limani), the fine old church of Agios Nikolaos, and Baltiza yacht anchorage and boatbuilding area. Orientation At Dapia Harbour the quay serves both ferries and hydrofoils. A left turn at the end of the quay leads east through Limenarhiou, where the horse-drawn carriages wait, and along the harbour-front road of Sotiriou Anargyriou, past the town beach and Agiou Mama. Beyond here the seafront road continues to the Old Harbour and on to Baltiza. From the inner, left-hand corner of Limenarhiou a narrow lane leads left to Orologiou (Clocktower Sq), which is enclosed by cafés, tavernas and shops and is overlooked by its namesake clock tower. The narrow Main Street climbs directly inland from the back of Limenarhiou. Above Dapia Harbour is a café-crammed terrace from where the road drops down right and then bends sharply left along the harbourfront Kounoupitsa area to become the road to Ligoneri. If you re on a day visit and fancy a swim, there s a concrete swimming platform and a little beach at the east end of the harbour front, just beyond Agiou Mama. Information There is no tourist office on Spetses. A useful website is SARONIC GULF ISLANDS

189 Lonely Planet Publications 362 SPETSES Spetses Town Book accommodation online at SPETSES Around Spetses 363 SARONIC GULF ISLANDS Alpha Bank at Dapia Harbour has an ATM, as does the Bank of Piraeus at the entrance to Orologiou, and there are ATMs just up to the right along the harbour terrace. The port police (% ), tourist police (% ; hmid-may Sep) and OTE all share the same building. It s crowned by a conspicuous satellite dish and is just beyond the cafés on the Dapia Harbour terrace Net Café (% ; near Hotel Possidonion; per 30min 2.50; h9am-midnight) Not the world s zippiest click. Mimoza Travel (% ; mimoza-kent@aig.forthnet.gr) On the harbour front just past Limenarhiou; can help with accommodation and other services. Newsagent (% ; Main St) Impressive selection of newspapers and magazines in numerous languages. Post office (h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) On the street running behind the seafront hotels. Sights The Spetses museum (% ; adult/concession 3/2; h8.30am-2.30pm Tue-Sun) is housed in the old mansion of Hatzigiannis Mexis ( ), a shipowner who became the island s first governor. The collections on view are not extensive, but are fascinating. They include traditional costumes, folkloric items and portraits of the island s founding fathers, icons, coins and archaeological items. Most items have Greek and English annotations. To reach the museum, go straight up from the top left-hand corner of Orologiou, turn left at the junction and then right, then follow signposts. The mansion of Spetses famous daughter, the 19th-century seagoer Laskarina Bouboulina, has been converted into a museum (% ; adult/concession/child 5/3/1; h9am-9pm Tue-Sun Jun mid-sep, 10.30am-4.30pm mid-sep May). You can only take a 40-minute guided tour. These run every 45 minutes during the Easter period and from June to mid-september, but less frequently the rest of the year. Billboards around town advertise the starting times of tours. To reach the museum, turn left at the end of the line of cafés on the Dapia Harbour terrace. There s an impressive statue of Bouboulina on the harbour front opposite the Hotel Possidonion. The Old Harbour (Palio Limani), which is about a 1.5km stroll from Dapia, is usually filled with a jumble of commercial vessels. A bit further on is Baltiza, a sheltered inlet crammed with all types of craft, from halfbuilt caïques to working fishing boats, minorleague private cruisers and yachts. Sleeping BUDGET Spetses has a number of pleasant sleeping options. Most places offer good discounts outside August. ohotel Kamelia (% ; s/d/tr 45/50/65; hapr-sep; a) There s excellent value and a charming welcome at these fresh, airy rooms in a fine old house tucked away from the busy seafront. Head along the lane to the right of the kiosk in Agiou Mama for 100m, then bear right before a little bridge. In another 100m or so, go right along a narrow lane to a quiet square, where the Kamelia lies drenched in bougainvillea. Villa Marina (% ; off Agiou Mama; s/d 45/64; a) A charming, unfussy place with friendly owners. It s just up to the right of Agiou Mama. Some rooms look out onto a little garden full of flowers, while others front a big balcony with views to the sea. All rooms have refrigerators and there is a wellequipped communal kitchen downstairs. MIDRANGE & TOP END Hotel Roumani (% ; Dapia Harbour; s/d 70/85; a) Refurbished in recent years, the Roumani has an attractive and fresh décor. It s on the terrace above Dapia Harbour, right in the heart of things. Kastro (% ; s/d/tr incl breakfast 90/100/120, apt 200; as) These fine studios and apartments are in a choice position close to the centre, yet within a private and quiet complex. Décor and furnishings combine traditional style with modern amenities and there are attractive public areas. There are good discounts in low season. Head west along the harbour front for several hundred metres and Kastro is along a short lane to the left. Nissia (% ; apt incl breakfast ; hapr-oct; ais) Nissia is an exclusive oasis of peace and quiet in stylish surroundings. Apartments are arranged around a spacious courtyard, complete with swimming pool and soothing greenery. It s about 300m northwest of Dapia Harbour. The hotel has a restaurant (mains 8 to 24). Eating The swathe of canopied cafés overlooking Dapia Harbour offer choke-on-your-coffee prices. For better food and better deals, veer off smartish. Cockatoo (% ; mains ; hnoonmidnight) At this cheerful budget base, you can get a souvlaki for 1.80, a Greek salad for 4 or a takeaway chicken for 14. Head left from the top of Limenarhiou, and then right. Taverna O Lazaros (% ; mains ; h8pm-midnight) A steady but pleasant hike of about 400m up Main St from Dapia earns you rewards at this popular taverna, where the homemade taramasalata (thick purée of fish roe, potato, oil and lemon juice; 3.80) is the real thing. Other treats include young goat in lemon sauce ( 8.80) and chicken in tomato sauce with spices ( 7.20). Vegetarians can create their own dish and the retsina is very persuasive. O Roussos (% ; Agiou Mama; mains 6-9) A local favourite with decent traditional food and pizzas and pasta at reasonable prices, this pleasant taverna has a great view across the water, albeit with the busy harbourside road in between. oakrogialia (% ; Kounoupitsa; mains 5-12; h9am-midnight) Winning itself a deserved reputation because of its great food, appealing décor and friendly service, this fine restaurant is on the Kounoupitsa harbour front. Starters such as shrimp and crab salad get things going well and there are other treats on a tempting menu, including steamed mussels in wine and lemon, chicken and mushroom risotto and delicious steaks. Wines include excellent Makedonikos white and red for about 12 or a pricier Lazaridi white at 20 and red at 29. Breakfast, coffee and lunch are also available. Self-caterers will find everything they need at Kritikos Supermarket (% ; Kentriki Agora), next to the fish market on the harbour front. The entrance is along a covered passageway. There s also a good fruit and vegetable shop next to the newsagents in Main St. Entertainment Bar Spetsa (% ; h8pm-late) This is one of those wonderful island bars where there s still a tradition of discerning background music that also allows great conversation in good company. The bar is 50m beyond Agiou Mama on the road to the right of the kiosk. Balconi Wine Bar (% ; Sotiriou Anargyriou; h10.30am-3am May-Oct, 7pm-3am Nov-Apr) Sophistication swirls gently round this stylish homage to cocktails, wine and impressively sourced whisky. There s a background of mainly classical music by day and subtle jazz riffs in the evening. Mop up with fine cheeses and salami, or hand-cut smoked salmon ( 17). It s next to the seafront Stelios Hotel. Socrates Bar, between Plateies Limenarhiou and Orologiou is big on big-screen football. Music venues are concentrated at the Old Harbour Baltiza area and include Fortezza and Mourayo, which play pop Greek, Tsitsiano for traditional Greek, and the big dance venue Baltiza. All are open from about midnight to the early hours, and venues like Baltiza charge about 10 for special theme nights. AROUND SPETSES Spetses coastline is speckled with numerous coves with small, pine-shaded beaches. A 24km surfaced road skirts the entire coastline, so a scooter is the ideal way to explore. The beach at Ligoneri, about 2.5km west of town, is easily reached by bus. The long, pebbly Agia Paraskevi and the more sandy Agii Anargyri on the southwest coast have good, albeit crowded beaches; both have water sports of every description. Agia Marina, about 2km southeast of Spetses Town, is a small resort with a beach that gets crowded. The interior of the island is crisscrossed with woodland tracks, where a compass is useful. Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content. SARONIC GULF ISLANDS

190 Lonely Planet Publications 364 CYCLADES History 365 CYCLADES Cyclades Κυκλάδες CYCLADES ATHENS Rafina EVIA Karystos To Thessaloniki (400km) 0 20 km 0 12 miles CYCLADES Piraeus Petalia Gulf Andros (p369) The Cyclades (kih-klah-dez), are Greek islands to dream about; sun-kissed outliers of rock and dappled earth lying scattered across the glittering Aegean Sea. Their characteristic white cubist houses, golden beaches, olive groves, pine forests, herb-strewn mountain slopes and terraced valleys make for an irresistible mix. Throw in a dash of hedonism, and a culture that draws vividly on ancient and modern themes, and the Greek Island dream can become reality. Other realities can be a touch more down to earth, at least for native islanders, who have often struggled for a living through centuries of deprivation. Beneath the tourism gloss, many still raise livestock and grow food on reluctant soil, or chase a diminishing supply of fish from seas that are regularly rough and dangerous. Winters are often grey, bleak and unforgiving. The Cyclades range from big fertile Naxos, with its craggy mountains and landlocked valleys, to the tiny outliers of Donousa, Iraklia and Anafi, where the sea dominates, with attitude, on every side. The beaches of Mykonos, Santorini and Ios are awash with sun-lounger society and raucous diversions; their main towns seethe with commercialism. All of this has its appeal, but other islands, such as Andros, Amorgos and Sifnos, have kept tourism to a more sedate scale. ATTICA S E A Lavrio Cape Sounion M I R T O Ö N Antimilos Ioulida Serifos (p454) Kea (p458) Kythnos (p456) Hora Kimolos (p439) Milos (p439) Horio Adamas Hora Gyaros Gavrio Syros (p376) Ermoupolis Sifnos (p443) Hora (Andros) Apollonia Antiparos (p393) Renia Poliegos Sikinos (p434) Hora/Kastro Hora Folegandros (p435) Tinos (p373) Hora (Tinos) Naoussa Parikia Piso Livadi Paros (p393) Hora Hora (Mykonos) Delos Mykonos (p382) Iraklia A E G E A N Hora (Naxos) Ios (p419) Naxos (p402) S E A Apollonas Apiranthos Schinousa See Little Cyclades Map (p410) Koufonisia Keros To Ikaria (75km); Samos (130km) IKARIAN SEA To Crete (237km) To Astypalea (140km) To Astypalea (130km) Hora Amorgos (p416) Ikaria Donousa (p414) The Cyclades are so named because they form a kyklos (circle) around the island of Delos, one of the world s most haunting ancient sites. Closing that circle is still one of the most rewarding experiences for the dedicated traveller. S E A O F C R E T E Thirasia Santorini Fira (Thira) (p423) Agios Nikolaos Anafi (p433) HIGHLIGHTS Timeless Greece Exploring the historic old kastros (original settlements crowned by a ruined castle) of Sikinos ( p433 ) and Serifos ( p455 ) Spectacular Sunsets Viewing the best over Santorini s submerged volcano ( p422 ) Ancient & Sublime Indulging in Delos ( p392 ) archaeological feast Secluded Sand Hiding away on the islands of the Little Cyclades ( p410 ) and on the east coast of Andros ( p368 ) High Flying Kiteboarding on Paros ( p399 ) Dawn Patrol Clubbing on Mykonos ( p381 ) and Ios ( p418 ) POPULATION: 109,814 Serifos Andros Paros Sikinos AREA : 2429 SQ KM Mykonos Delos Ios Little Cyclades Santorini (Thira) To Crete (194km) HISTORY The Cyclades are said to have been inhabited since at least 7000 BC. Around 3000 BC there emerged a cohesive Cycladic civilisation that was bound together by seagoing commerce and exchange. During the Early Cycladic period ( BC) the tiny but distinctive Cycladic marble figurines, mainly stylized representations of the naked female form, were sculpted. In the Middle Cycladic period ( BC) many of the islands were occupied by the Minoans at Akrotiri, on Santorini, a Minoan town has been excavated. At the beginning of the Late Cycladic period ( BC) the Cyclades passed to the Mycenaeans. The Dorians followed in the 8th century BC, bringing Archaic culture with them. To Crete (127km) By the middle of the 5th century BC the islands were members of a fully fledged Athenian empire. In the Hellenistic era ( BC) they were controlled by Egypt s Ptolemaic dynasties and then by the Macedonians. In 146 BC the islands became a Roman province, and lucrative trade links were established with many parts of the Mediterranean. The division of the Roman Empire in AD 395 resulted in the Cyclades being ruled from Byzantium (Constantinople), but after the fall of Byzantium in 1204, they came under a Venetian governance that doled out the islands to opportunistic aristocrats. The most powerful of these was Marco Sanudo (selfstyled Venetian Duke of Naxos), who acquired

191 366 CYCLADES Getting There & Away CYCLADES Getting Around 367 CYCLADES Naxos, Paros, Ios, Santorini, Anafi, Sifnos, Milos, Amorgos and Folegandros, introducing a Venetian gloss that survives to this day in island architecture. The Cyclades came under Turkish rule in Neglected by the Ottomans, they became backwaters prone to pirate raids, hence the frequent relocation of coastal settlements to inland hilltop sites. The effect of repeated raids, however, led to wholesale depopulation of the islands. In 1563 only five islands were still inhabited. The Cyclades part in the Greek War of Independence was minimal, but they became havens for people fleeing from other islands where insurrections against the Turks had led to massacres and persecution. During WWII the islands were occupied by the Italians, and entered the 1950s demoralised and deprived. Many islanders lived in deep poverty; many more gave up the economic battle and headed for the mainland, or to America and Australia, in search of work. The fortunes of the Cyclades were revived by the tourism boom that began way back in the 1970s, although some would argue that tourism has created a few dormitory islands that are all but empty of people during the winter months. New economic developments include sometimes contentious port and marina extensions and plans for huge wind farms, although tourism seems likely to be the mainstay of life on these much-loved and indeed very lovely islands. GETTING THERE & AWAY Air Olympic Airlines ( has flights between Athens and Naxos, Syros, Santorini, Mykonos, Paros and Milos. From Mykonos there are flights to/from Thessaloniki, Santorini and Rhodes (see individual island sections for details). Aegean Airlines ( flies to Mykonos and Santorini from Athens and Thessaloniki. Sky Express (% ; flies to Santorini from Athens and on from Santorini to Rhodes. Until suspension of operations in July of 2007, the innovative AirSea Lines ( ran seaplane flights daily from Thursday to Monday between Lavrio (in southern Attica) and Mykonos, Paros, Ios and Santorini. It also ran flights daily from Thursday to Monday between Mykonos and Kalymnos and Kos (both in the Dodecanese). Due to upgrading requirements the company suspended its Aegean schedule in July The schedule was still suspended at the time of writing (September 2007). The company states, however, that it will resume its Aegean service as soon as possible and readers are advised to check the company website. Fast Boat & Catamaran Large high-speed boats and catamarans are a regular feature on Cyclades routes, mainly during the late spring to early autumn period. Their travel times are usually half those of regular ferries. Seats fill fast in July and August, especially on weekends, so it s worth booking your ticket a day or so in advance. For some travellers, the downside to using the smaller fast ferries is often the need to book well ahead; the regimented seat allocations; the absence of deck space; the limited view and the possible queasiness from being on these ferries, the result of rough sea conditions and the inescapable company of fellow sufferers. High speed certainly, but when there s a swell, there also can be an element of high roll. Ferry Ferry routes separate the Cyclades into western, northern, central and eastern subgroups. Most ferry services operating within the Cyclades connect one of these subgroups with the ports of Piraeus, Lavrio or Rafina on the mainland. The central Cyclades (Paros, Naxos, Ios and Santorini) are the most visited and have the best ferry links with the mainland, usually to Piraeus. The northern Cyclades (Andros, Tinos, Syros and Mykonos) have excellent connections with the mainland. The mainland port for Andros is Rafina, but it s possible to reach Andros from Piraeus by catching a ferry to Syros, Tinos or Mykonos and connecting from there. Lavrio is the mainland port for ferries serving Kea, from where connections south to the other western Cyclades are not good. Kythnos has a reasonable number of connections to Piraeus and good connections south to other islands. Milos, Serifos and Sifnos have seen greatly improved ferry connections with Piraeus in recent years. Folegandros and FERRY CONNECTIONS TO THE CYCLADES Origin Destination Duration Fare Frequency Agios Nikolaos (Crete) Milos 7hr weekly Iraklio (Crete) Mykonos 9hr weekly Naxos 7½hr weekly Paros 7-8hr weekly Santorini 3¾hr weekly Lavrio Kea 1¼hr daily Kythnos 2½hr weekly Syros 3½hr weekly Piraeus Amorgos 10hr weekly Anafi 11hr weekly Donousa 7hr weekly Piraeus Folegandros 6-9hr 26 4 weekly Ios 7hr daily Iraklia 6¾hr weekly Kimolos 6hr 23 2 weekly Koufonisia 8hr weekly Kythnos 2½hr daily Milos 5-7hr 25 2 daily Mykonos 6hr daily Naxos 6hr 29 6 daily Paros 5hr daily Santorini 9hr 31 4 daily Serifos 4½hr 20 daily Sifnos 5hr 24 daily Sikinos 10hr weekly Syros 4hr 24 3 daily Tinos 5¼hr 26 2 daily Rafina Andros 2hr daily Mykonos 4½hr 19 2 daily Tinos 3½hr daily Sitia (Crete) Milos 10hr 22 3 weekly Thessaloniki Mykonos 15hr weekly Naxos 18hr weekly Paros 16hr weekly Santorini 25hr weekly Syros 15hr weekly Tinos 18hr weekly Sikinos have less frequent connections with the mainland. The eastern Cyclades (Anafi, Amorgos, Iraklia, Schinousa, Koufonisia and Donousa) are the least visited and have the fewest ferry links with the mainland. However, for the foreseeable future Blue Star Ferries is running a regular service to Amorgos, Iraklia, Schinousa, Koufonisia and Donousa. These islands also have a daily service in summer to and from Naxos. Anafi is best reached from Santorini. When planning your island-hopping it pays to bear this pattern of ferry routes in mind; however, Paros is the ferry hub of the Cyclades, and connections between different groups are usually possible via this port. See the table ( above ) for an overview of high-season ferry services to the Cyclades from the mainland and Crete. The information relates to slower, traditional ferries. GETTING AROUND For information on travel within the Cyclades, see the individual island entries. The Cyclades are more exposed to the summer meltemi (northeasterly wind) than other island groups. This is a fierce wind; it may be warm, but it can blast, and it often plays havoc CYCLADES

192 368 ANDROS Gavrio Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at ANDROS Batsi 369 CYCLADES with ferry schedules (especially for smaller vessels that ply the Little Cyclades routes, and for small hydrofoils). Keep this in mind if you re on a tight schedule. ANDROS ΑΝΔΡΟΣ pop 10,112 Big, beautiful Andros is a mere two hours by ferry from mainland Rafina and is a rewarding escape for those who want a less-touristlogged Cycladic world. It s the most northerly island of the Cyclades and is the second largest after Naxos. Satisfyingly remote in places, Andros boasts neoclassical mansions and Venetian tower-houses that contrast with the rough unpainted stonework of farm buildings and patterned dovecotes. Handsome stone walls, made up of a unique pattern of irregular slabs and smaller stones, lock the sometimes friable hill slopes in place. A network of footpaths, many of them stepped and cobbled, are also maintained, and the island has a fascinating archaeological and cultural heritage. Andros has several beaches, many of them in out-of-the way locations. There are three main settlements: the unpretentious port of Gavrio, the cheerful resort of Batsi and the handsome main town of Hora, known also as Andros. Getting There & Away FERRY At least three ferries daily leave Andros main port of Gavrio for Rafina ( to 12.50, two hours). Daily ferries run to Tinos ( 8, 1½ hours) and Mykonos ( 10.50, 2½ hours), from where there are daily connections to Syros and Paros in high season. Services run direct to Syros, from May to October, three times a week ( 9, two hours). On Saturday from May to September, a very slow ferry runs to Paros ( 12.10, seven hours), Naxos ( 12.20, eight hours and 20 minutes), Ios ( 18.20, 12 hours) and Santorini ( 20.80, 14¼ hours). This ferry continues to Anafi ( 26.30, 16 hours), Sikinos ( 18.20, 12 hours) and Folegandros ( 18.20, 11 hours). On Thursday from May to September, a ferry runs to Kythnos ( 11.70, six hours and 45 minutes) and Kea ( 8, 8½ hours). Getting Around Nine buses daily (fewer on weekends) link Gavrio and Hora ( 3.50, 55 minutes) via Batsi ( 2, 15 minutes). Schedules are posted at the bus stops in Gavrio and Hora; otherwise, call % for information. A taxi (%Gavrio , Batsi , Hora ) from Gavrio to Batsi costs 8 and to Hora 25. Car hire is about 35 in August, and about 25 in the low season. Euro Rent A Car (% ) is a friendly service with an office opposite the Gavrio ferry quay. GAVRIO ΓΑΥΡΙΟ Located on the west coast, Gavrio is the main port of Andros. Apart from the flurry of ferry arrivals it is very low key and a touch drab. Orientation & Information The ferry quay is situated midway along the waterfront and the bus stop is in front of it. The post office is 150m to the left as you leave the ferry quay. There s an ATM outside Kyklades Travel and there s a bank with ATM on the middle of the waterfront. Kyklades Travel (% ; lasia@otenet.gr) A helpful office right opposite the ferry quay. It sells ferry tickets and can arrange accommodation. Port police (% ) On the waterfront. Sleeping & Eating Most visitors head for Batsi or Hora for accommodation. There are a couple of sleeping options on the Gavrio waterfront but these are essentially a last resort. A much better bet is Ostria Studios (% ; s/d/apt 60/65/85; pa), about 300m along the Batsi road and with spacious rooms in a pleasant complex of rising terraces. Peppering Gavrio s waterfront are several cafés and bars that are down-to-earth local places and weekend hang-outs for visiting mainlanders. To Konaki (% ; mains ) offers a healthy choice of fish, meat and vegetarian dishes with a local flavour. It s about 50m to the left of the ferry quay. BATSI ΜΠΑΤΣΙ Easy-going yet upbeat, Batsi is the island s main resort. Things are likely to liven up here with the completion of a yacht marina scheduled for The resort lies 7km south of Gavrio on the inner curve of a handsome bay. A sandy beach on the north side merges eventually with a harbour-side promenade backed by a colourful swath of cafés, tavernas and shops. There s a dusty car park across the road from the beach. Greek Sun Holidays (% ; greeksun@travelling.gr), located towards the far end of the waterfront, is a good source of information and can help with accommodation, car rental and ferry tickets. Scooters can be hired for 16 to 22 per day from Dino s Rent-a-Bike (% ) by the car park. Well-maintained self-drive boats can be hired from Riva Boats (% , ; Hora). They carry four adults comfortably. A minimum rental of one day is about 90 (see Sights & Activities, p371 ). The tiny post office is tucked away beside the taverna opposite the bus stop. The ANDROS To Rafina (66km) To Kea (31km); Kythnos (66km) Cape Fasa Fellos Bay Hartes Amolohos 716m Vitali Paleopolis Bay taxi rank, and National and Alpha banks (with ATMs), are all on the middle of the waterfront. Tours From May to October Greek Sun Holidays (% ; greeksun@travelling.gr) organises island tours ( 22) that take in Paleopolis and some of the island s loveliest villages. There are also small-group half- or full-day guided walks ( 18 to 28) following old paths through beautiful countryside. Sleeping & Eating It s wise to book accommodation well ahead for July and August and for weekends in June and September. Gulf of Vitali Menites Paleopolis Aladinou To Syros (39km); Mykonos (52km); Paros (60km); Naxos (63km) Mesa Vouni Batsilianos Pera Horio Mesaria Sineti Paleokastro Zagora Kapparia A E G E A N Exo Vouni S E A Ateni Cape Gria Ahla Agios Gavrio Moni Petros Zoödohou Andros Moni Agiou Pigis Nikolaou Agios Kyprianos Remata Golden Batsi Katakilos Stenies Delavoia Stivari Arni Gialia Apikia Anerousa Green Cape Kampanos Vitali Mt Petalo (910m) Sariza Spring Hora (Andros) Moni Panahrandou Ormos Korthiou Aidonia Korthi Mousionas Piso Meria 648m 0 6 km 0 4 miles Paraporti Dipotamata Gorge Cape Steno Cape Orginos Tinos CYCLADES

193 370 ANDROS Hora (Andros) Book accommodation online at ANDROS Around Andros 371 CYCLADES Cavo D ora Pension (% ; s/d 25/45) Located above a snack bar and pizzeria, the handful of pleasant rooms here offer outstanding value. You can get breakfast for 5.50 and tasty mezedhes and pizzas for 4.50 to 8. It s at the tree-shaded entrance to town, just across from the beach. Likio Studios (% ; s/d/ apt 60/75/120; pa) Peaceful flower-filled surroundings and a friendly welcome make these family-run, spacious and well-equipped studios a great choice. The studios are open year round, have central heating and are located about 100m inland from Dino s Rent-a-Bike. Oti Kalo (% ; mains ) The name means everything good, and it s no idle boast. Mother s in the kitchen and she prepares an excellent version of the Andros speciality froutalia (spicy sausage and potato omelette), in big ( 20) or small ( 17), but even the small is more than enough for two. Tasty starters include mussels, while other mains include meat and fish as well as pasta. Koala (% ; mains ) Midway along the line of waterfront tavernas is this cheerful place noted for its very big breakfasts ( 8), pastas and pizzas, and local dishes. ostamatis Taverna (% ; mains 6-18) A friendly family-run taverna, on the terrace above the harbour, offering a great choice of starters such as pikandiko (feta cooked in a pot), or spinach pie. A delicious speciality is exohiko (baked lamb with sautéed onions, green peppers and cheese all wrapped in filo pastry; 9) Fish dishes are also on the menu and there are good vegetarian options. Entertainment Several lively music bars are clustered at the inner corner of the waterfront where the road bends to the right. They include Nameless, Aqua and Kimbo, all of which play mainstream disco with modern Greek music when the local crowd is in. Shopping Melita (% ) For a special gift of Andros-made ceramics, try this delightful little pottery shop tucked between the Oti Kalo and Stamatis tavernas. HORA (ANDROS) ΧΩΡΑ (ΑΝΔΡΟΣ) pop 1508 One of the loveliest island capitals in the Cyclades, Hora unfolds its charms along a narrow rocky peninsula between two bays on the east coast of Andros, 35km southeast of Gavrio. The town reflects Venetian origins in its numerous neoclassical buildings, the elegance of which is underscored by Byzantine and Ottoman accents. Hora s cultural pedigree is even more distinguished by its Museum of Modern Art and an impressive archaeological museum. Orientation & Information The bus station is on Goulandri, from where a narrow lane leads past a taxi rank, beside the spacious town square, to a T-junction. The post office is to the left. The marble-paved and notionally pedestrianised main street leads down to the right. The National Bank of Greece and the Alpha Bank, both with ATMs, are halfway down the main street. Occasional steps lead down left to the old harbour area of Plakoura, and to Nimborio. Further down the main street is the pretty central square, Kaïri, with tree-shaded tavernas and cafés watched over by the Andros Archaeological Museum. Steps again descend from here, north to Plakoura and Nimborio and south to Paraporti. The street passes beneath a short arcade and then continues along the promontory, bends left, then right and ends at Riva a big, airy square with crumbling balustrades and a giant bronze statue of a sailor. Sights & Activities Hora has two outstanding museums; both were donated to the state by Basil and Elise Goulandris, of the wealthy ship-owning Andriot family. The Andros Archaeological Museum (% ; Kaïri; adult/child/student 3/2/free; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) contains impressive finds from the settlements of Zagora and Paleopolis (9th to 8th century BC) on Andros east coast, as well as items of the Roman, Byzantine and Early Christian periods. They include a spellbinding marble copy of the 4th-century bronze Hermes of Andros by Praxiteles. The Museum of Modern Art (% ; adult/student 6/3 Jun-Sep, 3/1.50 Oct-May; h10am-2pm & 6-8pm Wed-Sat & Mon, 10am-2pm Sun Jul-Sep, 10am-2pm Sat-Mon Oct-Jun) has earned Andros a reputation in the international art world. The main gallery features the work of prominent Greek artists, but each year from July to September, the gallery stages an exhibition of the works by one of the world s great artists. To date there have been annual exhibitions featuring original works by Picasso, Matisse, Braque, Toulouse-Lautrec and Miro, a remarkable achievement for a modest Greek island. To reach the gallery, head down the steps from Kaïri towards the old harbour. The huge bronze statue of a sailor that stands in Riva celebrates Hora s great seagoing traditions, although it looks more Russian triumphalist than Andriot in its scale and style. The ruins of a Venetian fortress stand on an island that is linked to the tip of the headland by the worn remnants of a steeply arched bridge. A great option is to hire a self-drive boat and head out to some of the west and north coast s glorious beaches, most of which are difficult to reach by road. Riva Boats (% , ; Hora) has superb 4.5m Norwegian-built open boats with 20HP outboards. They are very seaworthy and come complete with life raft and anchor, and even a mobile phone. You do not need a licence to drive these boats. They can carry four adults comfortably. Hire per boat for a minimum of one day is about 90. The boats can be hired through Riva s shop and office, located in the narrow road leading to Nimboria. Riva can also arrange for boats to be hired from Batsi. Scooters and motorbikes can be hired from Riva down at Nimborio, and through Karaoulanis Rooms (see below ) for 12 to 18. Riva also sells fishing tackle and boat fittings. Sleeping & Eating Karaoulanis Rooms (% , ; d/apt 50/100) Down by the old harbour area there s a friendly welcome at this tall old house, whose rooms and apartments have been refurbished in recent years to the highest standards. There are excellent discount prices in low season. Greek, English and French are spoken by family members. Check here also for scooter and boat hire. Alcioni Inn (% , ; alcioni@ hellastourism.gr; Nimborio; d from 70 to 80) These self-catering rooms are very smart and comfortable. They are in the midst of the main waterfront, just across the road from the beach, but have a nicely secluded and relaxing atmosphere. Niki (%/fax ; xenonaw.nik@g.mail.com; s/d/tr 70/80/95) Imaginative restoration of this handsome old house has preserved beautiful timber ceilings and galleries. It s on the main street and there s a large veranda where you can relax and get breakfast for about 8, or a coffee. Ermis (% ; Kaïri) On the square is this pleasant little café and pastry shop. Nonna s (% ; Plakoura; mains ) A small, family-run mezedhes place on the old harbour, next to Karaoulanis Rooms. Nonna s main dishes are fresh fish from the family s own boat. Monkfish and red mullet are two well-prepared dishes that are often available. Vegetarians have a decent choice, too, from salads to zucchini pie. Palinorio (% ; Nimborio; mains 8-15; h11am-2am) There s a great choice of traditional dishes, as well as good service and value at this popular taverna on the waterfront at the edge of Nimborio. Shellfish dishes are more expensive, but are prepared with skill. AROUND ANDROS Between Gavrio and Paleopolis Bay are several pleasant beaches, including Agios Kyprianos, where there s a little church with a taverna close by, Delavoia, one half of which is naturist, Anerousa and Green. Paleopolis, 7km south of Batsi on the coast road, is the site of Ancient Andros, where the Hermes of Andros was found. The small but intriguing Archaeological Museum of Paleopolis (% ; admission free; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) displays and interprets finds from the area. If you have transport, a worthwhile trip is to head down the west coast of the island before turning northeast at Batsilianos through a charming landscape of fields and cypresses to reach Ormos Korthiou, a bayside village that lacks only a decent beach to give it full resort status. Head north from here along a lovely coastal road that climbs and turns through raw hills and wooded valleys for 20km to reach Hora. North from Hora the road climbs into the mountains passing the pleasant village of Stenies, where Taverna Barbarola (% ; mains 5-8) is a worthwhile stop for excellent traditional Andriot cooking, with a terrific view thrown in. Beyond Stenies the road heads over high hills before descending in twists and turns to Batsi. CYCLADES

194 372 TINOS Getting There & Away TINOS Hora (Tinos) 373 CYCLADES ROMANCING THE STONES The best structures made by humankind, from simple walls to cathedrals, often seem to grow naturally from the ground. On Andros and Tinos there are two compelling examples of this serendipity. Andros is famous for its network of stone walls that wriggle across the wild landscape of the island s hills. The walls are built of large flat slabs (often trapezium-shaped) that are interspersed with smaller clusters of boulders. Many older walls are in decay but there is now a programme of repair and of new wall building. The result adds a rich visual emphasis to the rugged landscape. On Tinos, hundreds of white-painted dovecotes pepper the landscape. They are like tiny palaces, embroidered with symbols of trees, wagon wheels, triangles, chevrons and sun symbols; all worked in slate and stone and then whitewashed, creating a rich interplay of light and shade. It s said that the Venetians first introduced dovecotes to the Cyclades, but most surviving structures date from the 18th and 19th centuries. The breeding of pigeons was an important island trade for many centuries. The birds supplied meat for the winter months, droppings for field manure and feathers for bedding. TINOS ΤΗΝΟΣ pop 8614 Hora, the port of Tinos, glows with religious fervour during Orthodox festivals at the splendid Church of Panagia Evangelistria, home to the sacred icon of the Megalochari, the Holy Virgin. A steady trickle of pilgrims continues throughout the year. The icon is one of Greece s most famous and is said to have been found in 1822 on land where the church now stands. Healing powers were accorded to the icon, thus leading to mass pilgrimage and a commercial future for Tinos. Yet, beyond the overt religious life, Tinos survives as an island of great natural beauty. Its landscape of rugged hills is dotted with over 40 villages that protrude like marble outcrops from the brindled slopes. Scattered across the countryside are countless ornate dovecotes, legacy of Venetian influence (see boxed text, above ). There is a strong artistic tradition on Tinos, not least in the sculptors village of Pyrgos in the north of the island where the island s marble quarries are located. However, religion still takes centre stage in Hora, although the town rattles and hums around it all like a typical island port should. Getting There & Away FAST BOAT & CATAMARAN There are at least three services daily to Mykonos ( 9.50, 15 minutes) and Rafina ( 34, 1¾ hours), plus daily services to Paros ( 21.70, 1¼ hours), five weekly to Piraeus ( 43, three hours), four weekly to Naxos ( 20, 1½ hours), Santorini ( 33.20, 2¼ hours) and Ios ( 28.50, two hours) and one daily to Syros ( 9, two hours). FERRY At least six ferries daily go to Mykonos ( 4.50, 30 minutes), and four daily to Rafina ( 17.50, 3½ hours) and Andros ( 9, 1½ hours). There are at least two daily to Syros ( 5, 50 minutes) and Piraeus ( 27, six hours). Four weekly ferries go to Ikaria via connections through Mykonos ( 16, 3½ hours) and Syros ( 18, 3½ hours). Three ferries weekly go to Thessaloniki ( 37.10, 18 hours), and there are four ferries weekly to Paros ( 8.80, five hours) and Santorini ( 16.60, eight hours). Two weekly services run to Naxos ( 11, 4¼ hours) and Iraklio on Crete ( 25, 10¼ hours). Getting Around From June to September there are frequent buses from Hora (Tinos) to Porto and Kionia ( 1.20, 10 minutes) and several daily to Panormos ( 3.30, one hour) via Kambos ( 1.20, 15 minutes) and Pyrgos ( 3, 50 minutes). Buses leave from the station on the waterfront, opposite the Blue Star Ferry Office, where there s a timetable in the window. Motorcycles (per day 15 to 20) and cars (minimum per weekday 44; on weekends 60) can be hired from a number of outfits along the waterfront at Hora. Rates drop out of season. Vidalis Rent a Car & Bike (% ; Trion Ierarhon 2) is a reliable firm. HORA (TINOS) ΧΩΡΑ (ΤΗΝΟΣ) Hora, also known as Tinos, is the island s capital and port. The harbourfront is lined with cafés and hotels and the narrow streets behind are full of restaurants and tavernas. The streets leading up to the Church of Panagia Evangelistria are full of numerous shops and stalls crammed with souvenirs and religious ware. Orientation There are two ferry departure quays, the locations of which visitors definitely need to know. Locals know them as ports. The Outer Port is the dock for conventional ferries, including the bigger high-speed ones. It is about 300m to the north of the main harbour. The Middle Port, where smaller fast ferries such as Sea Jet and Flying Cats dock, is at the north end of the town s main waterfront. When you buy a ferry ticket it s essential to check which of these two ports your TINOS Cape Fyra Myti To Thessaloniki (490km) To Andros (57km); Rafina (118km) To Syros (22km); Piraeus (154km) Malli Marlas Mamados Panormos A E G E A N S E A Panormos Bay Vathy Pyrgos Katapolioani Isternia Kardiani Tinos Agios Romanos Kalloni 650m Dovecotes ferry is leaving from. Allow at least 20 minutes to walk from the centre of town to the Outer Port. The uphill street of Leoforos Megaloharis, straight ahead from the middle of the main waterfront, is the route pilgrims take to the church. The narrower Evangelistria, to its right, also leads to the Church of Panagia Evangelistria. Information The post office is at the southeastern end of the waterfront, just past the bus station, and the National Bank of Greece (with ATM) is 50m left of Hotel Posidonion. Malliaris Travel (% ; fax ; malliaris@thn.forthnet.gr; Paralia) On the waterfront near Hotel Posidonion; sells ferry tickets. Port police (% ; Kionion) Just up from Windmills Travel. Symposion (% ; Evangelistria 13; internet access per 30min 3) A pleasant café-restaurant with internet access. Windmills Travel & Tourism (% ; Kionion 2) Just across the way from Kolymvythra Komi Sanctuary of Poseidon & Amphitrite To Delos (27km) Kolymvythra Bay Volax Smardaki Loutra Exobourgo (640m) Koumaros Kambos Xinara Exobourgo Ruins Steni Mesi Kionia Hora (Tinos) Agapi Ktikados Agios Fokas 0 4 km 0 2 miles Berdemiaros Agios Sostis 729m Porto Cape Papargyros Pahia Ammos To Mykonos (22km); Paros (55km); Naxos (55km); Santorini (137km) CYCLADES

195 374 TINOS Hora (Tinos) Book accommodation online at SYROS History 375 CYCLADES the Outer Port ferry quay, this is very helpful, and staff can arrange accommodation, car hire and much more. Sights The neoclassical Church of Panagia Evangelistria (Church of the Annunciation; h8am-8pm) is built of marble from the island s Panormos quarries. The complex lies within a pleasant courtyard flanked by cool arcades. Inside the main building the acclaimed icon of the Holy Virgin is draped with gold, silver, jewels and pearls, and is surrounded by gifts from supplicants. A hanging garden of fabulous chandeliers and lampholders fills the roof space. Set into the surface of the street on one side of Leoforos Megaloharis is a rubberised strip, complete with side lights. This is used by pilgrims, who may be seen at any time of year heading for the church on their hands and knees, pushing long candles before them. The final approach is up carpeted steps. Within the church complex, several museums house religious artefacts, icons and secular artworks. The small archaeological museum (% ; Leoforos Megaloharis; admission 2; h8am-3pm Tue-Sun), on the right-hand side of the street as you descend from the church, has a collection that includes impressive clay pithoi (Minoan storage jars), grave reliefs and sculptures. Sleeping Hora should be avoided on 25 March (Annunciation), 15 August (Feast of the Assumption) and 15 November (Advent). If not booked into a hotel months ahead, you ll have to join the roofless devotees who sleep on the streets at these times. BUDGET Camping Tinos (% ; camp sites per adult/child/tent 7/4/4, bungalows with/without bathroom 28/20) This is a fine site with good facilities. It s south of the town near Agios Fokas, about a five-minute walk from the ferry quay, and is clearly signposted from the waterfront. A minibus meets ferries. Nikoleta (% ; nikoleta@thn.forthnet.gr; Kapodistriou 11; s/d 25/35) Some distance inland from the south end of town, but its spotless, uncluttered rooms are exceptional value and come with a charming welcome. There is a lovely garden area. Faros (% ; s/d/tr 35/50/80; a) This is a handy place for the Outer Port ferry quay. The rooms are colourful and quite quirky, but vary in size. The small outside courtyard is filled with leafy colour. MIDRANGE Boreades (% ; s 45-55, d 50-65, apt 160) A fairly ordinary location belies the style and comfort of this interesting place, which manages to convey an almost country-house ambience with its interior plan and creative décor. Breakfast in the sunny lounge is 7. Oceanis (% ; oceanis@mail.gr; Akti G Drosou; s/d/tr 45/75/97.50; a) Rooms are not overly large at this modern, well-run hotel, but they are clean and well equipped. They even have some genuine, if very small, single rooms. There s a lift to all floors. Breakfast is 5. Hotel Posidonion (% ; fax ; Paralia 4; s/d 60/75; a) In a very convenient position, midwaterfront, Posidonian is a long-established, popular hotel. Communal lounges overlooking the harbour are an endearing feature. Most rooms are well appointed and comfortable. Eating Pallada Taverna (% ; Palladas; mains 6-8) Ever popular, and offers Greek dishes with well-prepared veal, pork and lamb specialities as well as a good selection of vegetarian dishes. Local wines from the barrel are persuasive and the house retsina is brisk. Symposion (% ; Evangelistria 13; mains 6-17) This is an elegant café-restaurant reached by a pretty staircase. It does breakfasts ( 4 to 16), crepes and sandwiches ( 3 to 7.50), as well as pasta dishes and tasty mixed plates ( 8 for one, 18 for two) of feta, anchovies, Tinian cheese and sun-dried tomatoes. ometaxy Mas (% ; Palladas; mains ) Stylish service, décor and modern Mediterranean cuisine make this one of the best restaurants on Tinos. Tasty starters such as giant beans with spinach, or the succulent cheese pie, pave the way for mains that include veal casserole or cuttlefish with spinach. To Koutouki tis Elenis (% ; G Gagou 5; mains 7-15) Gagou is a narrow lane that veers off from the bottom of Evangelistria. It s crammed with tavernas whose tables fill every corner. This cosy little place is one of the best and dishes up cheerful local treats such as chicken in lemon sauce, rabbit in tomato sauce and a tasty fish soup. Drinking & Entertainment Koursaros (% ; h8am-3am) This longestablished bar spins an engaging mix of rock, funk and jazz. It s at the far end of the line of cafés across from the Middle Port. In the back lanes opposite the Middle Port there s a clutch of music and dance bars such as Volto and Sibylla, glowing with candy-coloured light and churning out clubby standards and Greek pop as a counterbalance to sacred song. AROUND TINOS Escaping from Hora s religious-commercial grip is essential if you want to make the most of Tinos and its numerous villages, beaches and dramatic countryside. At Porto, 6km east of Hora, there s a fine, uncrowded beach facing Mykonos, while about 1km further on from Porto is the even lovelier Pahia Ammos. Kionia, 3km northwest of Hora, has several small beaches. Near the largest are the scant remains of the 4th-century-BC site of the Sanctuary of Poseidon & Amphitrite, a once enormous complex that drew pilgrims in much the same way as the present Church of Panagia Evangelistria does today. About 12km north of Hora on the north coast is Kolymvythra Bay, where there are two pleasant sandy beaches, the smaller with sun loungers, umbrellas and a seasonal café, the larger backed by reed beds. On the north coast, 28km northwest of Hora, is the seaside village of Panormos, from where the distinctive green marble, quarried in nearby Marlas, was once exported. The waterfront at Panormos is lined with tavernas. Pyrgos, on the way to Panormos, is a handsome village where even the cemetery is a feast of carved marble. Many of the houses have attractive fanlights. During the late 19th century and early 20th century Pyrgos was the centre of a remarkable tradition of sculpture sustained by the supply of excellent local marble. Just across the road from the car park at the entrance to Pyrgos is the Museum House of Yannoulis Halepas (adult/child 5/2.50; h10.30am- 2.30pm & 5-8pm Apr mid-oct). It s a fascinating place, where the sculptor s humble rooms and workshop, with their striated plaster walls and slate floors, have been preserved. An adjoining gallery has splendid examples of the work of local sculptors. Outstanding are Girl on a Rock by Georgios Vamvakis; Hamlet by Loukas Doukas; and a copy of the superb Fisherman by Dimitrios Filippolis. About 6km directly north of Hora is the tiny village of Volax, a scribble of white houses at the heart of an amphitheatre of low hills studded with thousands of dark-coloured boulders. Behind the doorways, Volax really is old Greece. There s a small folklore museum (ask at the nearest house for the key), an attractive Catholic chapel and a small outdoor theatre. There are a couple of tavernas at the entrance to Volax. The ruins of the Venetian fortress of Exobourgo lie 2km south of Volax, on top of a mighty 640m rock outcrop. SYROS ΣΥΡΟΣ pop 20,220 Head for Syros if you want to witness authentic Greek island life and culture. This is one of the smallest islands of the Cyclades, yet it has the highest population. It is the legal and administrative centre of the entire archipelago, the ferry hub of the northern islands, and home to Ermoupolis, the largest and handsomest of all Cycladic towns. If you break the lightest of laws anywhere in the Cyclades, you may end up at court in Syros. Make your visit voluntary, instead; the rewards are substantial and include exposure to everyday island life, great eating and sleeping options and a handful of small but pleasant beaches. History Excavations of an Early Cycladic fortified settlement and burial ground at Kastri in the island s northeast date from the Neolithic period ( BC). During the medieval period Syros had an overwhelmingly Roman Catholic population. Capuchin monks and Jesuits settled on the island during the 17th and 18th centuries, and such was the Catholic influence that France was called upon by Syros to help it during Turkish rule. Later Turkish influence was benevolent and minimal and Syros busied itself with shipping and commerce. During the War of Independence thousands of refugees from islands ravaged by the Turks fled to Syros. They brought with them an infusion CYCLADES

196 376 SYROS Syros SYROS Ermoupolis 377 CYCLADES SYROS To Andros (57km); Rafina (63km); Kythnos (74km); Kea (76km) A E G E A N S E A Cape Katakefalos Galissas Bay Armeos Strongylo Finikas Bay Posidonia Angathopes Shinonisi Cape Diapori Finikas Galissas Cape Viglostasi Varvarousa Grammata Danakos Posidonia Cape Trimeson Delfini Lia Aetos Vissa Adiata Pagos Kini Parakopi Megas Gialos Syros Mt Volakas (312m) Mesaria Mt Axachas (319m) Megas Gialos 431m Hrousa Kampos Pirgos (440m) Agios Georgios Ano Manno Atelio To Lavrio (102km); Piraeus (154km); Crete (244km) Mytikas Ano Syros Manna Vari 0 2 km 0 1 mile Vari Kastri Vrodado Ermoupolis Lazareto Nisi To Thessaloniki (460km) A E G E A N S E A To Tinos (22km); Mykonos (35km); Ikaria (75km); Samos (150km) To Paros (48km); Naxos (55km); Ios (102km); Milos (115km); Santorini (135km) Azolimnos of Greek Orthodoxy and a fresh commercial drive that made Syros the commercial, naval and cultural centre of Greece during the 19th century. This position was lost to Piraeus in the 20th century. The island s industrial mainstay of shipbuilding has declined, but Syros still has textile manufacturing, a thriving horticultural sector, a sizable administrative and service sector and a small but healthy tourism industry. Getting There & Away AIR Olympic Airlines (% ; operates at least one flight daily, except Thursday and Saturday, to and from Athens ( 60, 35 minutes). The Olympic Airlines office is at the airport, but you can buy tickets at tourist agencies. FAST BOAT & CATAMARAN Services depart daily for Piraeus ( 40, 2½ hours), Lavrio ( 35, 1¾ hours), Paros ( 16, 45 minutes), Naxos ( 21, 1¼ hours), Mykonos ( 15, 30 minutes), Tinos ( 11, 30 minutes) and Santorini ( 42.50, 3¾ hours). FERRY There are at least four ferries departing daily from Syros to Piraeus ( 24, four hours), with two going to Tinos every day except Tuesday ( 5.60, two hours), and four heading to Mykonos ( 8, 1¼ hours). There are two daily ferries to Paros ( 8.50, 1¾ hours) and Naxos ( 11.50, three hours). There are daily connections to Andros via Tinos ( 11, 2¾ hours) and two direct connections weekly ( 7.40, 4¼ hours). At least four ferries weekly go to Amorgos ( 19, 4½ hours), Ios ( 19.50, 2¾ hours), Milos ( 11.70, six hours) and Santorini ( 23, 5¼ hours), and one weekly ferry serves Crete ( 23.40, 8½ hours). At least twice weekly there are boats to Andros ( 7.40, 1¾ hours), Kea ( 9.40, three hours), Kythnos ( 7.50, two hours), Sifnos ( 8.20, four hours), Serifos ( 7.50, two to four hours), Kimolos ( 11.70, five hours) and Anafi ( 16.80, eight hours). Five ferries weekly go to Patmos in the Dodecanese ( 26, 4½ hours). Each week, three ferries head to Sikinos ( 11.10, five hours), Folegandros ( 11.70, six hours), Lavrio ( 14.30, 3½ hours), and Leros in the Dodecanese ( 28, seven hours). Two ferries a week go to Kos (in the Dodecanese; 32, nine hours) and Rhodes ( 38.50, 15½ hours), and one goes to Thessaloniki ( 35.20, 15 hours). Getting Around About nine buses per day run a circular route from Ermoupolis to Galissas ( 1.30, 20 minutes), Vari ( 1.30, 30 minutes) and Kini ( 1.50, 35 minutes). They leave Ermoupolis every half-hour from June to September and every hour the rest of the year, alternating clockwise and anticlockwise routes. All of these buses will eventually get you to where you want to go, but it s always worth checking which route is quickest. There is a bus from Ermoupolis bus station to Ano Syros at 10.30am every morning except Sunday ( 1.20, 15 minutes). Taxis (% ) charge 6 to Ano Syros from the port. Cars can be hired per day from about 40 and scooters per day from 12 at numerous hire outlets on the waterfront. ERMOUPOLIS ΕΡΜΟΥΠΟΛΗ pop 13,000 Ermoupolis grew out of the refugee town that sprang up during the Greek War of Independence. The refugees were Greek Orthodox and, after initial resentments, lived in harmony with the original Catholic majority. In 1826 the town was named formally after Hermes, the god of commerce. Ermoupolis is a lively and likeable place, full of paved stairways, restored neoclassical mansions and handsome public buildings. The Catholic settlement of Ano Syros and the Greek Orthodox settlement of Vrodado lie to the northwest and northeast, looking inland, and both spill down from high hilltops, with even taller hills rising behind. Orientation The main ferry quay is at the southwestern end of the port. The bus station is on the waterfront, just along from the main ferry quay. To reach the central square, Miaouli, walk northeast from the ferry quay for about 200m, and then turn left into El Venizelou for another 100m. There are public toilets at the eastern end of the port, off Antiparou and on Akti Papagou near the ferry quay. CYCLADES

197 Emm Roidi 378 SYROS Ermoupolis Book accommodation online at SYROS Ermoupolis 379 CYCLADES Information There is an information booth run by the Syros Hotels Association on the waterfront, about 100m northeast of the main ferry quay; opening times are not guaranteed. The website has a reasonable amount of information. Alpha Bank (El Venizelou) Has an ATM. Enjoy Your Holidays (% ; Akti Papagou 2) Opposite the bus station. Sells ferry tickets and can advise on accommodation. Eurobank (Akti Ethnikis Andistasis) Has an ATM. Hospital (% ; Papandreos) Internet Café (% ; Ground fl, Town Hall, Miaouli; per 20min 2) Not the fastest connection. ERMOUPOLIS INFORMATION Alpha Bank & ATM... 1 B2 Enjoy Your Holidays... 2 B3 Eurobank... 3 B3 Information Booth... 4 B3 InSpot... 5 A4 Internet Café... 6 B2 Piraeus Bank... 7 B3 Police... 8 B2 Port Police... 9 C4 Post Office C2 Teamwork Holidays A4 Toilets A4 Toilets C3 Western Union...(see 10) To Ano Syros (500m); Agios Georgios (1km); Vamvakaris Museum (1km) Gimnastiriou Pertessi Thiras Agios Proiou SP Moustakli Kimolou Afroditis Thermopylon Dodekanisou Papagou 12 Akti Papagou Anastaseos Okeanidon Mitropolis Ant Politi Kosma Serifou Kythriou 2 Peloponnisou Vrodado Vrontadou 22 4 Benaki Petrokokkinou Ipirou Klisthenous Nikolaou Filini Louka Ralli Naxou To Industrial Museum of Ermoupolis (400m); Hospital (400m); Airport (3km); Galissas (7km) Alex Lykourgou Eptanisou 3 Hiou 14 Antistasis Akti Ethnikis 7 Epidavrou Miaouli Parou El Venizelou Iroön Themidos Korai Kontoudi 8 23 Vardaka Stefanou Vikela 28 Port of Ermoupolis InSpot (% ; Akti Papagou; per hr 3.40; h24hr) Faster connections but often monopolised by game fans. Piraeus Bank (Akti Petrou Ralli) Has an ATM. Police station (% ; Vardaka) Beside the Apollon Theatre. Port police (% /88888; Laïkis Kyriarchias) On the eastern side of the port. Post office (Protopapadaki) Offers Western Union money transfer. Teamwork Holidays (% ; Akti Papagou 18) Just across from the main ferry quay; very helpful and friendly. Sells ferry tickets and can arrange accommodation, excursions and car rental. Agiou Nikolou 26 Protopapadaki Akti P Ralli Spartiaton Perikleous 30 Souri 25 Androu 10 Vokotopoulou Milou 29 Laikis Kyriarchias m miles 27 Kanari Kalomenopoulou Ep Papadam Babagiotou Kasou Diogenous Athinas 21 Agios Nikolaos Bay SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Archaeological Museum B2 Town Hall B2 SLEEPING Aegli Hotel B3 Ethrion A3 Hermoupolis Rooms A3 Hotel Hermes C3 Ipatia Guesthouse C1 Sea Colours Apartments.. 21 D1 EATING Food Market B3 Nisiotopoula B3 Thalami Ouzeri Psarotaverna C2 To Archontariki C2 To Petrino C2 ENTERTAINMENT Boheme del Mar C3 Liquid Bar B3 Okio C3 Severo...(see 28) Traffic C3 TRANSPORT Bus Station B4 Main Ferry Quay A4 Sights The great square of Miaouli is the finest urban space in the Cyclades and is worthy of Athens. Once the sea reached as far as here, but today the square is well inland and is flanked by palm trees and lined along its south side by cafés and bars. The north side of the square is dominated by the magnificent neoclassical town hall. The small archaeological museum (% ; Benaki; admission 3; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) at the rear, founded in 1834 and one of the oldest in Greece, houses a tiny collection of ceramic and marble vases, grave stelae and some very fine Cycladic figurines. The Industrial Museum of Ermoupolis (% ; Papandreos; adult/concession 3/2; h10am-2pm Wed-Mon, 6-9pm Thu-Sun Jun-Sep, 10am-2pm Mon, Thu & Fri, 10am-2pm & 6-9pm Wed, Sat & Sun Oct-May) is about 1km from the centre of town. It celebrates Syros industrial and shipbuilding traditions and occupies old factory buildings. There are over 300 items on display. Ano Syros, originally a medieval settlement, has narrow alleyways and whitewashed houses. It is a fascinating place to wander around and has views of neighbouring islands. Be wise and catch the bus up to the settlement. From its bus terminus, head into the steeply rising alleyways and search out the finest of the Catholic churches, the 13th-century Agios Georgios cathedral, with its star-fretted barrel roof and baroque capitals. Follow your nose down from the church, past stunning viewpoints to reach the main street, where you ll find the little Vamvakaris museum (h10am-1pm Mon-Sat Jul & Aug), which celebrates the life of Markos Vamvakaris, a famous rembetika (blues) singer who was born in Ano Syros. Activities Cyclades Sailing (% ; csail@otenet.gr) can organise yachting charters, as can Nomikos Sailing (% ); call direct or book through Teamwork Holidays (% ). Tours You can book a day coach trip (adult/child 20/7) round the island on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday through Teamwork Holidays (% ). Sleeping Ermoupolis has a reasonably broad selection of rooms, with most budget options clustered above the waterfront near where the ferry docks. Most places are open all year. Ipatia Guesthouse (% ; house.com; Babagiotou 3; s/d with bathroom 40/65, without bathroom 30/40) Located in the Vaporia district, so called after the wealthy 19th-century vaporia (steamship) captains who built neoclassical mansions here. Ipatia is one such building. It overlooks Agios Nikolaos Bay and has been lovingly preserved. There s a comfy, livedin atmosphere and the spacious rooms have antique furnishings and remnants of original ceiling frescoes. There s a warm welcome, in keeping with the house s family feel. Hermoupolis Rooms (% ; Naxou; s/d 35/50) A cheerful, family run place with clean, well-kept rooms tucked away in narrow Naxou, a short climb up from the waterfront. Front rooms open on to tiny, bougainvillea-cloaked balconies. Sea Colours Apartments (% /83400; Athinas; s/d 50/66, apt 72) Facing Agios Nikolaos Bay, these pleasant apartments are ideally placed for the quieter end of town, yet are within a short stroll of the centre. oethrion (% ; Kosma 24; s 50, d 60-75; ai) One of the best choices in town, these comfortable, relaxing rooms occupy a modern but traditionally designed building in a quiet location. There s a pleasant courtyard and the owner is friendly and helpful. The price range indicates rooms with or without balconies and sea views. The town centre and harbourfront are only a minute or two away. Hotel Hermes (% ; fax ; Kanari; s/d/tr incl buffet breakfast 56/95/110) The Hermes is a long established hotel in a fine position on the eastern side of the waterfront. Public rooms are spacious and the bedrooms are smart, with bright interiors. There s a decent restaurant offering grills and pasta (mains 6.30 to 12). Aegli Hotel (% ; hotegli@otenet.gr; Klisthenous 14; s/d incl breakfast 83/100; ai) Located in a quiet side street, this fine, peaceful hotel has an air of exclusivity. Rooms are comfortable, and upper-floor balconies at the front have great views over the port. There are good views over the town from a roof garden. Eating Standard restaurants and cafés throng the waterfront, especially along Akti Petrou Ralli CYCLADES

198 380 SYROS Galissas Book accommodation online at MYKONOS Getting There & Away 381 CYCLADES and on the southern edge of Miaouli. However, dip into the quieter corners and you ll find places with character and good food. Nisiotopoula (% ; Antiparou 20; mains 3-7) You ll find Greek family cooking at its best at this down-to-earth taverna tucked behind the waterfront. On offer are delicious soups, pies and omelettes as well as chicken and pork dishes. A regular local clientele tells its own story. To Archontariki (% ; Emm Roidi 8; mains ) An extensive menu of classic Greek dishes and a good selection of regional wines, including Santorini vintages, make this longestablished restaurant a local favourite. Tasty starters include spinach with mushrooms, and leek pie, while lamb with artichoke and baked shrimps with tomato are typical of the appetising main dishes. To Petrino (% ; Stefanou 9; mains 6-10) Swaths of bougainvillea bedeck the pleasant little enclave of Stefanou, and at its heart is the popular To Petrino. Cheerful service goes with delicious traditional dishes such as kotopoula ala Spetsiota (pieces of chicken fillet with peppers, tomatoes and melted cheese) and squid stuffed with feta. othalami Ouzeri Psarotaverna (% ; Kalomenopoulou 1; mains 6-18) You can eat on a balcony overlooking Agios Nikolaos Bay at this great restaurant, which occupies an old Vaporia mansion. Seafood is by the kilogram, but reasonably priced treats, such as a local kakavia (soup of fish, onions and tomatoes), or squid stuffed with feta cheese, green peppers and tomatoes, are only part of an excellent menu. The best place to buy fresh produce is at the small, but well-stocked, morning food market (Hiou). Entertainment Music bars are clustered along the waterfront on Akti Petrou Ralli. They play mostly lounge music by day and a mix of house, funk and modern Greek music by night. They draw a great local crowd and rock into the early hours. Boheme del Mar (% ) Heads up the young scene. Liquid Bar (% ) About 60 metres north west of Boheme del Mar and also lively. ELEFTHERIA Michael Clark There is a distinctive type of young, modern Greek woman. Confident, wise, stylish, focused, thoughtful, fearless. And just a little bit scary. She has attitude, in the best sense of the word. On Syros there is Eleftheria Thymianou. She does not let me off with anything. That s a great name, I say. Eleftheria equals freedom. What do they call you for short? I get the full weight of Greek history in my face. No-one shortens my name, she says. That name means something... Severo (% ) Next door to Liquid Bar, this has a great racy atmosphere and good DJs. A couple of spirited little bars in the same area are Traffic (% ) and Okio (% ). GALISSAS ΓΑΛΗΣΣΑΣ When Ermoupolis becomes too metro for you, head west on a short bus ride to Galissas, a small resort with one of the best beaches on Syros, several cheerful bars and restaurants and some great places to stay. The main bus stop is at an intersection behind the beach. Sleeping Two Hearts Camping (% ; -camping.com; camp sites per adult/child/tent 8/4/4) Set in a pistachio orchard about 400m from the village and beach, this popular camping ground has good facilities; from the main bus stop, cross the intersection and follow the signs. A minibus meets ferries in high season. Oasis (% , ; freri_stefania@ hotmail.com; s/d/studios 20/35/45) A genuine oasis, this lovely little farm has bright and airy rooms, and the welcome is charming. It s about 400m back from the village and is set amid olive trees and vines. Follow signs from the main bus stop intersection in the village. Hotel Benois (% ; s/d/tr incl breakfast 70/90/110, apt 150; ais) In recent years there s been a sparkling makeover at this family-run hotel, including the addition of a swimming pool. Courtesy and friendly service are backed up by pleasant, spick-and-span rooms. It s close to the beach at the northern entrance to the village. Eating & Drinking Iliovasilema (% ; mains 4-12) Next door to Savvas, this is another good local eatery where fish is by the kilo, but where you can enjoy reasonably priced seafood starters and a delicious fish soup. Vegetarians can sidestep specials such as wild boar, venison and ostrich, and go for a pick n mix of nonmeat dishes. Socrates (% ; mains ) Eat beneath a leafy canopy on the garden terrace at this well-run place that offers tasty dishes such as giouvetsi (choice pieces of lamb in a tomato sauce, baked with pasta). Turn right at the junction by the bus stop and it s about 100m on the left. osavvas (% ; mains 6-10) Locally sourced ingredients and authentic Syran cuisine make Savvas one of the best tavernas around. Try the pork in honey and aniseed, or the chicken fillet stuffed with bacon, cheese and mushrooms. The taverna is just a few metres from the bus stop. Also recommended is the Green Dollars Bar on the beach road, for daytime snacks and music while you drink. Rock and reggae are favourites from 10am to 4am. AROUND SYROS The beaches south of Galissas all have domatia (rooms, usually in a private home) and some have hotels. Some beaches are narrow roadside strips of dullish sand, but they re not too busy. They include Finikas, Posidonia and Angathopes. Back on the main road and on the south coast proper, the town of Megas Gialos has a couple of roadside beaches. The pleasant Vari Bay, further east, has a sandy beach with some development, including a couple of hotels and a beachfront taverna. Kini, out on its own on the west coast, north of Galissas, has a long stretch of beach and is developing into a popular resort with standard modern hotels, apartments, cafés and tavernas. MYKONOS ΜΥΚΟΝΟΣ pop 9660 Mykonos glitters happily under the sun and carries its glamorous and camp reputation with panache, but expensively so. Beneath the gloss this is a charming and hugely entertaining place where the sometimes frantic mix of good-time holidaymakers, cruise ship crowds, posturing fashionistas and preening celebrities is magically subdued by the cubist charms of Mykonos town, a traditional Cycladic maze. Local people have had 40 years to get a grip on tourism and have not lost their Greek identity in doing so. Be prepared, however, for the oiled-up lounger lifestyle of the island s packed main beaches, the jostling street scenes and the relentless, yet sometimes forlorn, partying. That said, there s still a handful of off-track beaches worth fighting for. Plus, the stylish bars, restaurants and shops have great appeal, and you can still find a quieter pulse amid the labyrinthine old town. Add to all this the nearby sacred island of Delos, and Mykonos really does live up to its reputation as a fabulous destination. Getting There & Away AIR Olympic Airlines (% ; based at the airport, runs two to three flights daily between Athens and Mykonos ( 70, 40 minutes). Aegean Airlines (% ; also at the airport, has daily flights to Athens ( 74, 40 minutes) and Thessaloniki ( 88, one hour). Sky Express (% ; has about four flights a week to Iraklio ( 99, one hour and 30 minutes) via Santorini ( 74, 35 minutes) and one flight a week direct to Iraklio (45 minutes). It also runs four flights a week to Rhodes ( 119, two hours) via Santorini. You can book tickets through Mykonos Accommodation Centre ( p385 ). Until suspension of operations in July of 2007, AirSea Lines (%toll free ; ran one seaplane flight a day from Thursday to Monday between Lavrio and Mykonos. It also ran one flight daily, Thursday to Monday, between Mykonos and Kalymnos, and Kos. Due to upgrading requirements the company suspended its Aegean schedule in July The schedule was still suspended at the time of writing (September 2007). The company states, however, that it will resume its Aegean service as soon as possible and readers are advised to check the company website. FAST BOAT & CATAMARAN There are at least three daily services connecting Mykonos with Tinos ( 9.50, 15 minutes). CYCLADES

199 382 MYKONOS Getting Around MYKONOS Hora (Mykonos) 383 CYCLADES Four daily services go to Rafina ( 39.90, two hours) and three go to Piraeus ( 48, three hours) and Syros ( 15, 30 minutes). There are three daily services to Paros ( 17, one hour), which connect with services to Naxos ( 19.50, 1½ hours), Santorini ( 28, three to four hours) and Ios ( 26.10, 2¾ hours). One service daily continues to Iraklio on Crete ( 47.90, five hours). FERRY Mykonos has two ferry quays: the Old Port, 400m north of town, where some conventional ferries and smaller fast ferries dock; and the New Port, 2km north of town, where the bigger fast ferries and some conventional ferries dock. This is not a hard and fast rule, and when buying outgoing tickets you should always double-check which quay your ferry leaves from. There are bus connections to the New Port from the northern bus station (see Bus, right ) and the Old Port ( 1.20, 10 minutes); a taxi to the New Port is 4. Mykonos has daily services to Rafina ( 21.40, 4½ hours) via Tinos ( 4.50, 30 minutes) and Andros ( 11, 2½ hours), and to MYKONOS To Syros (35km); Rafina (133km); Piraeus (174km); Thessaloniki (480km) To Delos (2km) To Delos (2km) To Samos (130km); Patmos (130km) Excursion Boat Houlakia Hora (Mykonos) Korfos Kapari Agios Ioannis Cape Alogomandra Excursion Boat Cape Armenistis Nea Mykonos Agios Stefanos Vrissi Psarou Psarou To Naxos (46km); Paros (54km); Ios (70km); Santorini (128km) To Donousa (75km); Amorgos (96km) 372m Agios Sostis Agios Stefanos Marathi Tourlos Tourlos Malaliamos Ornos Platys Gialos Platys Gialos Paraga Lake Marathi Piraeus ( 24.50, six hours) via Tinos and Syros ( 7, 1½ hours). There are three ferries a week to Santorini ( 15, six hours). There is one ferry a week to Thessaloniki ( 37.30, 18½ hours) and Crete ( 23.90, 13 hours). There are three ferries a week to Samos ( 21.50, 4½ hours) and Ikaria ( 15.50, 2¼ hours). Getting Around TO/FROM THE AIRPORT Buses from the southern bus station serve Mykonos airport ( 1.20), which is 3km southeast of the town centre. Make sure you arrange an airport transfer with your accommodation (expect to pay around 6) or take a taxi (% , airport ); there s a fixed fare of BUS Hora (Mykonos) has two main bus stations and a pick-up point at the New Port. The northern bus station (% ; Remezzo) is behind the OTE office and has frequent departures Panormos Bay Vothonas Moni Panagias Tourlianis Mykonos 275m Paradise Panormos Ftelia Super Agrari Paradise Mersini Ano Mera Elia Elia 0 5 km 0 3 miles Cape Mavrokefalas Cape Mavros Mersini Bay Fokos Kalo Livadi A E G E A N S E A Merchias Bay Profitis Ilias Anomeritis (351m) Lia Kalafatis Cape Kalafatis Cape Evros Cape Goni to Agios Stefanos via Tourlos ( 1.20), and services to Ano Mera, ( 1.20), Elia ( 1.50), and Kalafatis ( 1.70). Trips range from 20 minutes to 40 minutes. There are two buses daily to Kalo Livadi ( 1.50). Buses for the New Port, Tourlos and Agios Stefanos stop at the Old Port. The southern bus station (% ; Fabrika Sq [s Yralos]) serves Agios Ioannis ( 1.20), Ornos, ( 1.20), Platys Gialos ( 1.20), Paraga ( 1.20) and Paradise ( 1.50). Trips range from 15 minutes to 40 minutes. Bus tickets are sold at street kiosks, minimarkets and tourist shops. You must buy a ticket before boarding (buy return tickets if required), validate the ticket on the bus and hang on to it. From 12.15am to 6am all prices are CAÏQUE Caïque (little boat) services leave Hora (Mykonos) for Super Paradise, Agrari and Elia es (June to September only) and from Platys Gialos to Paradise ( 6), Super Paradise ( 7), Agrari ( 6) and Elia ( 6) es. CAR & MOTORCYCLE For cars, expect to pay (depending on model) about 40 to 98 per day in high season, or 31 to 80 in low season. For scooters it s about 15 to 30 in high season, 10 to 20 in low season. Reliable hire agencies are the Mykonos Accommodation Centre ( p385 ) and O.K. Rent A Car (% ; Agio Stefanos). There are several car and motorcycle rental firms around the southern bus station in Hora. TA X I If you re after a taxi (% /22400), you ll find them at Hora s Taxi Sq ( Manto Mavrogenous) and by the bus stations and ports. The minimum fare is 2.85, but there s a charge of 0.30 for each item of luggage. Fares to beaches: Agios Stefanos 4, Ornos 4.40, Platys Gialos 5.90, Paradise 7.20 and Elia HORA (MYKONOS) ΧΩΡΑ (ΜΥΚΟΝΟΣ) pop 6467 Mykonos (also known as Hora), the island s port and capital, is a warren of narrow alleyways that wriggle between white-walled buildings, their stone surfaces webbed with white paint. In the heart of the Little Venice area, tiny flower-bedecked churches jostle with trendy boutiques, and there s a deluge of bougainvillea round every corner. Without question, you will soon pass the same junction twice. It s entertaining at first, but can become frustrating as throngs of equally lost people and pushy Mykonos veterans add to the stress. For quick-fix navigation, familiarise yourself with main junctions and the three main streets of Matogianni, Enoplon Dynameon and Mitropoleos, which form a horseshoe behind the waterfront. The streets are crowded with chic fashion salons, cool galleries, jangling jewellers, languid and loud music bars, brightly painted houses and torrents of crimson flowers plus a catwalk cast of thousands. Orientation The town proper is about 400m to the south of the Old Port ferry quay, beyond the tiny town beach. A busy square, Manto Mavrogenous (usually called Taxi Sq), is 100m beyond the beach and on the edge of Hora. East of Taxi Sq, the busy waterfront leads towards the Little Venice neighbourhood and the town s iconic hilltop row of windmills. South of Taxi Sq and the waterfront, the busy streets of Matogianni, Zouganelli and Mavrogenous lead into the heart of Hora. The northern bus station is 200m south of the Old Port ferry quay, on the way into town. The southern bus station is on Fabrika Sq, on the southern edge of town. The quay from where boats leave for Delos is at the western end of the waterfront. Information BOOKSHOPS International Press (% ; Kambani 5) Numerous international newspapers, although editions are a day late. Also a very wide range of magazines and books. EMERGENCY Police station (% ) On the road to the airport. Port police (% ; Akti Kambani) Midway along the waterfront. Tourist police (% ) At the airport. INTERNET ACCESS Angelo s Internet Café (% ; Xenias; per hr 4.50) On the road between the southern bus station and the windmills. CYCLADES

200 384 MYKONOS Hora (Mykonos) Book accommodation online at MYKONOS Hora (Mykonos) 385 CYCLADES HORA (MYKONOS) INFORMATION Angelo's Internet Café... 1 B5 Association of Rooms, Studios & Apartments...(see 5) Delia Travel... 2 B3 Earth Internet Café... 3 A4 Eurobank (Fabrika Sq)...(see 60) Eurobank (Taxi Sq)...(see 61) First Aid Clinic... 4 B6 Hoteliers Association of Mykonos... 5 B1 International Press... 6 B3 Mykonos Accommodation Centre... 7 B4 Port Police... 8 B3 Post Office... 9 B5 Sea & Sky B3 Tourist Information Office A3 Windmills Travel B A E G E A N S E A Windmills Old Jetty 58 Karaoli Dimitriou 11 Little Venice Katsoni Alefkandra K Georgouli To Ornos (3.5km); Agios Ioannis (5km) Town Hall 3 47 Dimitriou Agias 48 Agiou Mitropoleos K Milon Sotiros Pateraki Meletopoulou Paraskevis Xenias Drakopoulou Ag Gerasimou 41 Old Port Enoplon Dynameon 1 Basoula Ipirou Aghios Efthymios Mirodiou 8 33 Akti Port Agiou Ioannou Agiou Stefanou Agias Anna Taxi Sq 61 ( Manto Mavrogenous) 20 Kambani Kambani Agias Kiriakis Kalogera Malamatenias Tourlianis Matogianni 39 Artakinou Zouganelli Mavrogenous Goumeniou 45 Panahrantou 40 Eterias Agion Saranta D Koutsi 9 To Malaliamos (500m); Tourlos (1km); New Port (1.5km); Agios Stefanos (2.5km) Agias Annas 27 Litous Rohari Polykandrioti Apollonos m miles Boni Agiou Ioannou To Hospital (1km); Ano Mera (7km); Kalo Livadi (9km); Elia (10km) 22 To Hotel Elysium (250m) SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Fabrika Square ( Yralos) Aegean Maritime 4 Museum B4 Agricultural Museum C4 Archaeological Museum.. 15 C2 Church of Panagia Paraportiani A3 Lena's House...(see 13) Mykonos Accommodation Centre...(see 7) Mykonos Folk Art To Airport (3km); Police (2km); Museum A3 Platys Gialos (4km); Windmills Travel...(see 12) Paradise (5.5km) 14 SLEEPING Hotel Apollon B3 Hotel Belvedere C5 Hotel Lefteris C3 Hotel Philippi B4 Hotel Semeli C5 Marios Hotel B4 Pension Stelios C2 Terra Maria B4 EATING Antonini's C3 Appaloosa C4 Bugazi B3 Camares Cafe-Bar-Restaurant B3 Casa di Giorgio A4 Eva's Garden C4 Food Market B3 Fruit Stalls...(see 60) Kalidonios B4 La Maison de Catherine B4 Magic Garden B4 Piccolo B4 Supermarkets...(see 60) To Maerio B4 DRINKING Aigli B4 Angyra B4 Aroma B4 Astra B4 Diva A4 El Pecado-Remezzo C2 Galleraki...(see 50) Kastro...(see 44) Katerina's Bar A3 La Scarpa...(see 50) Lotus B4 Pierro's B3 Porta A3 Scandinavian Bar A3 Space B5 Verandah Café A4 ENTERTAINMENT Cinemanto B4 SHOPPING Efimerides Gold Market Loom Orama Art Gallery Parthenis SurReal TRANSPORT Excursion Boats for Delos.. 58 Northern Bus Station Southern Bus Station Taxis B3 C3 B4 B4 A4 B3 A3 C2 B6 B3 Earth Internet Café (% ; Zani Pitaraki 4; per 15min 1) MEDICAL SERVICES First Aid Clinic (% ; Agiou Ioannou) Hospital (% ) Located about 1km along the road to Ano Mera. MONEY Several banks by the Old Port quay have ATMs. Eurobank has ATMs at Taxi Sq and Fabrika Sq. POST Post office (% ; Laka) In the southern part of town. TOURIST INFORMATION Tourist Information Office (% ; Karaoli Dimitriou; h9am-9pm Jul & Aug, 10am-5pm Easter-Jun, Sep & Oct) This is a new venture for Mykonos, introduced in It s run by the municipality and at the time of writing was just getting into gear with a few leaflets, maps and information printouts. Time will tell. TRAVEL AGENCIES Delia Travel (% ; travel@delia.gr; Akti Kambani) Halfway along the inner waterfront. Sells ferry tickets and tickets for Delos. It s also the French Consulate. Mykonos Accommodation Centre (% ; 1st fl, Enoplon Dynameon 10) Well-organised and very helpful for a range of information, including gay related. Can also arrange midrange, top-end and gay-friendly accommodation. Sea & Sky (% ; Akti Kambani) Offers information and ferry tickets. Windmills Travel (% ; travel.com; Fabrika Sq) By the southern bus station, this is another helpful office for all types of information, including gay related. Also sells ferry tickets. Sights MUSEUMS Mykonos has five museums. The archaeological museum (% ; adult/concession 2/1; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun) houses pottery from Delos and some grave stelae and jewellery from the island of Renia (Delos necropolis). Chief exhibits include a statue of Hercules in Parian marble. The Aegean Maritime Museum (% ; Tria Pigadia; adult/concession 3/1.50; h10.30am-1pm & 6-9pm Apr-Oct) has a fascinating collection of nautical paraphernalia, including ships models. Next door, Lena s House (% ; Tria Pigadia; admission free, donations appreciated; h pm Mon-Sat, 7-9pm Sun Apr-Oct) is a charming late-19th-century, middle-class Mykonian house (with furnishings intact). It takes its name from its last owner, Lena Skrivanou. The Mykonos Folk Art Museum (% ; Paraportianis; admission free; h pm Mon-Sat, pm Sun Apr-Oct), housed in an 18th-century sea captain s house, features a large collection of furnishings and other artefacts, including old musical instruments. The agricultural museum (% ; Agiou Ioannou; admission free; h pm Mon-Sat, pm Sun Jun-Sep) has displays including a renovated windmill, a miller s house, a threshing floor, and a wine press and other artefacts. CHURCH OF PANAGIA PARAPORTIANI Mykonos most famous church is the rocklike Panagia Paraportiani (beyond Delos ferry quay on the way to Little Venice; admission free, donations appreciated; hvariable, usually open mornings). It comprises four small chapels plus another on an upper storey that is reached by an outside staircase. Visitors should avoid entering during services, unless for genuine worship rather than sightseeing. Tours Mykonos Accommodation Centre (% ; 1st fl, Enoplon Dynameon 10) Organises guided tours to Delos (see p390 ). The centre also offers tours to Tinos, as well as Mykonos bus tours and boat cruises, wine and culture tours, and exclusive gay boat cruises. Windmills Travel (% ; travel.com; Fabrika Sq) The booking agent for snorkelling ( 25 for 30 minutes) and island cruises ( 35 to 55, four weekly). Sleeping There are scores of sleeping options in Mykonos, but if you arrive without a reservation between July and September and you find reasonably priced accommodation, grab it budget in Mykonos is relative, and this is reflected in the listings. Otherwise, check out the local accommodation organisations when you get off at the town ferry quay, you will see a low building with numbered offices. Number 1 is the Hoteliers Association of Mykonos (% ; Old Port; h8am-midnight). The Association will book a room on the spot, but does not accept telephone bookings prior to your arrival. CYCLADES

201 386 MYKONOS Hora (Mykonos) MYKONOS Hora (Mykonos) 387 CYCLADES Number 2 is the Association of Rooms, Studios & Apartments (% ; h9am-10pm May-Sep, 9am-4pm Oct-Apr). If you choose domatia from the owners who meet ferries they rev up into one of the most raucous scrums in the Cyclades check their exact location and ask if they charge for transport (some do). If you plan to stay in Hora and want somewhere quiet, think carefully before settling for domatia on the main streets bar noise until dawn is inevitable. Some places only advertise doubles, but single occupancy may be negotiable. During late July and early August some hotels will only accept a minimum of three-night stays. BUDGET Hotel Philippi (% ; chriko@otenet.gr; Kalogera 25; s 60-70, d ; a) A pleasant garden full of trees, flowers and shrubs makes this a great choice in the heart of Hora. There s an appealing ambience in the bright, clean rooms that open onto a railed veranda overlooking the garden. MIDRANGE Pension Stelios (% , ; s/d/ tr 85/100/130) A straightforward but wellequipped pension, Stelios has a hillside location halfway between the Old Port and town but is only a few minutes from the centre. There are great views over Hora from some of the small balconies. There are very good discounts in low season. Hotel Apollon (% ; fax ; Akti Kambani; d with/without shower 90/65) An unashamed slice of traditional Mykonos in a prime position on the waterfront; the Apollon has oldfashioned furnishings to go with its well-kept rooms. The cheerful owner has survived the trendy gloss that has engulfed much of Hora. Hotel Lefteris (% ; lefterishot@yahoo.com; Apollonos 9; s/d 90/115, studios ) A colourful entranceway sets the tone for this refuge from the mainstream hubbub of town. Tucked away just up from Taxi Sq, the Lefteris is something of an international meeting place for all ages. The conversation is always good, and the welcome is kind and friendly. Rooms are simple but comfy and bright, and the roof terrace is a great place to relax. Studios are well equipped and the hotel has other rooms nearby. Terra Maria (% ; Kalogera; d 120; ai) Sidestepping the busier streets, this cool, relaxing place has bright, clean rooms and friendly staff. There s a leafy garden to go with the bright décor. One room is equipped for disabled use. Low season prices drop substantially. Marios Hotel (% ; -mykonos.com; Kalogera 31; s/d incl breakfast 120/135; ai) Located right in the heart of town and all its action, gay friendly Marios has a pleasant central garden, an attractive breakfast room and bar, and a Jacuzzi. Rooms have wooden floors and furnishings are a pleasant mix of old and new. TOP END Hotel Elysium (% ; s , d , tr 360; hapr-oct; pais) Located high above the main town in the School of Fine Arts area, this stylish gay hotel (although non-gays are also welcome) has cool décor and good-sized comfortable rooms. There are plenty of special trimmings, including personal computers in suites and deluxe rooms, and there s a spa and massage service. Hotel Belvedere (% ; hotel.com; Rohari; s , d ; pais) It s all billowing drapes and white linen amid the modernist landscape and furnishings of this leading Mykonos hotel, where sea and town views are panoramic in all but the cheapest rooms. There s also a restaurant with Japanese and South American influences. Jacuzzis, massage therapy, a fitness studio, a music and movie library and wi-fi seal the deal. Hotel Semeli (% ; Rohari; s/d 286/310, studios ; pais) Adjacent to the Belvedere, the Semeli has the same level of luxury, but in a more traditional Cycladic style of white and pastel décor. Eating High prices don t necessarily reflect high quality in many Mykonos eateries. There are, however, excellent good-value restaurants of all kinds. BUDGET opiccolo (% ; Drakopoulou 18; snacks ) There are no linen-draped tables at this impeccable little place, but the food is delicious, from crisp, fresh salads to a great selection of sandwich fillings that include Mykonian prosciutto, manouri (soft cheese), tomato and oregano, smoked eel or salmon. Antonini s (% ; Taxi Sq; dishes ) A long-standing local hang-out with standard, but reliable, Greek food and a view of all of Mykonos passing by. There s a cluster of cheap fast-food outlets and creperies around town: Bugazi (% ; snacks ) Off the edge of Taxi Sq. Taki s (% ; Agion Saranta) A popular place with locals, Taki s dishes out kebabs and souvlaki for 2, and other budget fillers for 5 to 7. There are also several supermarkets and fruit stalls, particularly around the southern bus station area, and there s a food market on the waterfront where Mykonos famous pelicans hang out. MIDRANGE & TOP END Magic Garden (% ; Tourlianis; dishes 8-15) There s a genuine garden ambience beyond the welcoming entrance bar of this longstanding and well-run restaurant. The food is prepared with a subtle touch to create delicious dishes such as shrimps in ouzo, and baked lamb with yogurt, garlic and nutmeg. To Maerio (% ; Kalogera 16; dishes ) A simple, unpretentious menu of Mykonian favourites has earned this new eatery a good reputation. The mainly meat and poultry dishes include treats such as pieces of veal and pork in fresh tomato sauce, and beef fillet with parmesan in a wine sauce. Starters are just as tasty and there s a range of good salads. okalidonios (% ; cnr Dilou & Gerasimou; mains ) The chef-owner and staff at this enjoyable restaurant put heart and soul into their work, and the results are outstanding. Try the savory kolokythokeftedhes (fried zucchini balls) or imam baïldi (baked eggplant stuffed with chopped onion, garlic, parsley, tomatoes and feta) it s worth getting your tongue around the name, and then the food. Casseroles and mousakas (sliced eggplant and mincemeat arranged in layers and baked made the way it should be) add to the feast. Desserts are delicious. House wines and a worthy wine list complement the food, while the surroundings are relaxing and the service enthusiastic and friendly. Appaloosa (% ; Mavrogenous 1, Goumeniou; mains 8-22) International cuisine with a Mexican influence sets the tone at this friendly, popular, stylish place. Starters have great taste, in every sense, and there are salads, grills and pasta dishes, too. A hot line in tequila and cocktails goes with the cool background sounds. Eva s Garden (% ; Goumeniou; dishes 9-27) Family run for many years, this is one of Hora s most reliable bets for authentic Greek cooking. There s everything from simple dishes such as dolmades and spinach pie to generous meat treats. La Maison de Catherine (% ; cnr Gerasimou & Nikou; meals 22-40) Classic Greek cuisine of the highest order with a magic touch of subtle, international influences ensures Catrine s remains Mykonos top restaurant. Relax in stylish surroundings over homemarinaded anchovies with endives and tomato coulis, or lamb ribs in a delicious rosemary-flavoured sauce. Also recommended: Camares Cafe-Bar-Restaurant (% ; Akti Kambani; dishes 5-15) On the waterfront just round from Taxi Sq. It offers decent helpings of meat dishes, salads and seafood. Casa di Giorgio (% ; Mitropoleos; mains 5-22) Delicious pizzas and pastas, as well as good meat and seafood dishes, served on a big terrace. Drinking Halfway along Matogianni is the stylish Lotus (% ; Matogianni 47), where you can sip drinks at the bar to the soothing strains of classical music. It also serves food. Hora s Little Venice quarter (Venetia) is not exactly the Grand Canal, but it does offer the Mediterranean at your feet as well as rosy sunsets, windmill views, glowing candles and a swath of colourful bars. The music meanders through smooth soul and easy listening, but at quieter times bar staff play more esoteric and sharper sounds. A good spot is the friendly Galleraki (% ; Little Venice), which turns out superb cocktails. Nearby, it s the sunset view at Verandah Café (% ; Little Venice) while La Scarpa (% ; Little Venice) lets you lean back from the sea on its cosy cushions. Further north, Katerina s Bar (% ; Agion Anargyron) has a cool balcony and eases you into the evening s action with relaxing sounds. Deeper into town, the relentlessly stylish Aroma (% ; Enoplon Dynameon; hbreakfastlate) sits on a strategic corner, providing the evening catwalk view. It s open for breakfast and coffee as well. Further down Enoplon Dynameon is Astra (% ), where the décor is modernist Mykonos at its best, and where some of CYCLADES

202 388 MYKONOS Hora (Mykonos) Book accommodation online at MYKONOS Around Mykonos 389 CYCLADES THERE BE PIRATES Pirates push people about and in the Cyclades of old, the story is that they pushed coastal communities to build new towns inland, out of sight of the sea and high up, if possible. The mazelike alleyways of Hora (Mykonos) and of a score of other Cycladic villages are said to have evolved as a way of confusing raiders, although the records show that pirates got their way eventually. Seventeenth century writer George Wheler said of Mykonos, The greatest part of the inhabitants are Pyrats He went on to describe how the pirates kept their wives, children and mistresses on the island and that the women of Mykonos had a greater reputation for beauty than chastity. The Greek islands have certainly had their fair share of villains. In Greek hagiography it is usually Turkish or North African pirates who get the blame, yet even the Rhodes-based Knights of St John were lightly disguised freebooters as they sailed along the thin line between crime and enterprise. Athens top DJs feed the ambience with rock, funk, house and drum n bass. Just across from Astra, cocktail-cool Aigli (% ) has another useful terrace for people-watching. Matogianni has a couple of music bars, including Angyra (% ), which sticks with easy listening and mainstream. Scandinavian Bar (% ; Ioanni Voinovich 9) is mainstream mayhem with ground-floor bars and a space upstairs for close-quarters moving to dance and retro hits. The cocktail nomenclature is sometimes as cheap as the prices. For big action into the dawn, Space (% ; Laka) is the place. The night builds superbly through a mix of techno, house and progressive, and the bar-top dancing fires up the late-night action. El Pecado-Remezzo (% ; Polykandrioti) is run by the Space team but features lounge and dance for a more relaxing scene. Entry is around 20 to each of the clubs. GAY BARS Stylish fashion and sun-seducing indulgence have made Mykonos one of the world s great gay-friendly destinations. Gay life is less overt here, but Hora has many gay-centric clubs and hang-outs from where the late night crowds spill out onto the streets. Kastro (% ; Agion Anargyron) With a leaning towards stylish classical sounds, this is a good place to start the night on cocktails as the sun sets on Little Venice. Diva (% ; K Georgouli) A great upbeat atmosphere makes this a Mykonos favourite with a mixed crowd and a loyal lesbian core. Porta (% ; Ioanni Voinovich) Head downstairs into Porta s cruisey ambience where things get crowded and cosy towards midnight. Pierro s (% ; Agias Kyriakis) Longstanding last stop for the nightwatch, where things round off with a backdrop of heavybeat house and superbly over-the-top drag action. Takes over the outdoors, also. Entertainment Cinemanto (% ; Pitaraki; admission 9; hsummer) Screenings are at 9pm and 11pm in the garden setting of this open-air cinema, which runs new films every few days. Most are English language films and any Greek films usually have English subtitles. There s a bar and you can get a tasty souvlaki (cubes of meat on skewers) for Shopping The entire style scene vies for attention throughout Hora s streets and includes Lacoste, Dolce & Gabbana, Naf Naf, Diesel and Body Shop. But for something special, try Parthenis (% ; Alefkandra), featuring the couture in black-and-white only of Athens designer and long-time Mykonos resident Dimitris Parthenis. The Orama Art Gallery (% ; Fournakia), off Enoplon Dynameon, shows the highly original work of Louis Orosko and Dorlies Schapitz. Efimerides (% ; Drakopoulou 4) has an intriguing selection of objets d art, and right opposite is SurReal (% ; Drakopoulou 1), which specialises in leaflike leatherware. Loom (% ; Kalogera 43) has a collection of beautiful rugs, wall hangings, throws and other pieces. Jewellery shops are a Mykonos fixture but a good bet is Gold Market (% ; Polykandrioti), right at the entrance to town. AROUND MYKONOS es Mykonos beaches are in good supply and most have golden sand and attractive locations. They re not big enough for you to escape the crowds, and they re extremely popular and busy. Do not expect seclusion, especially from June onwards, although there is often a sense of exclusion as various cliques commandeer the sun loungers; segregation zones for style and sheer snobbery dominate at some locations. You need to be a party person for the likes of Paradise and Super Paradise. It can all get very claustrophobic, but it s heaven for the gregarious. Most beaches have a varied clientele, and attitudes to toplessness and nudity also vary, but what s accepted at each beach is obvious when you get there. The nearest beaches to Hora (Mykonos), which are also the island s least glamorous beaches, are Malaliamos; the tiny and crowded Tourlos, 2km to the north; and Agios Stefanos, 2km beyond. About 3.5km south of Hora is the packed and noisy Ornos, from where you can hop onto boats for other beaches. Just west is Agios Ioannis. The sizable packageholiday resort of Platys Gialos is 4km from Hora on the southwest coast. All of the above beaches are family orientated. Platys Gialos is the caïque jumping-off point for the glitzier beaches to the east, such as Paradise and Super Paradise. Approximately 1km south of Platys Gialos you ll find the pleasant Paraga, which has a small gay section. About 2km east of here is the famous Paradise, which is not a recognised gay beach, but has a lively younger scene. Super Paradise (aka Plintri or Super P) has a fully gay section. Mixed and gay-friendly Elia is the last caïque stop, and a few minutes walk from here is the small and pleasant Agrari. Nudity is fairly commonplace on all of these beaches. North-coast beaches can be exposed to the meltemi (northeasterly wind), but Panormos and Agios Sostis are fairly sheltered and becoming more popular. Both have a mix of gay and nongay devotees. For out-of-the-way beaching you need to head for the likes of Lia on the southeast coast, or the smaller Fokos and Mersini on the east coast, but you ll need tough wheels and undercarriage to get there. ACTIVITIES Dive Adventures (% ; Paradise ) offers a full range of diving courses with multilingual instructors. Two introductory dives cost 110; snorkelling costs 30. There are various dive packages starting with a five-dive deal for 199. On a great location at the delightful Kalafatis, Planet Windsailing (% ; Kalafatis ) offers one-hour or one-day windsurfing for 22 or 55 respectively, or a three-hour beginner s course for 75. Also at Kalafatis, the friendly Kalafati Dive Center (% ; Kalafatis ) has the full range of diving courses including a 10-boat dive deal for 320. A single boat dive with tank and weights costs 35, or with all equipment 50. A discover scuba diving session is 45. SLEEPING Budget Mykonos Camping (% ; camp sites per adult/child/tent 10/5/5, bungalows per person 15-30, apt ) This is a decent budget option by the pleasant Paraga (a 10-minute walk from Platys Gialos), and has reasonable facilities and bungalows and apartments that sleep two to six people. Midrange & Top End Princess of Mykonos (% ; fax ; s/d/tr incl breakfast 148/190/216; pais) Seaview rooms are the most expensive at this swish hotel, which merges traditional island style with Art Deco touches. The hotel is above the fairly oversubscribed Agios Stefanos beach. Ornos Hotel (% ; fax ; s or d incl breakfast ; pas) Overlooking the busy beach, the traditional-style Ornos is right in the middle of the action and is handy for beach-hopping caïques. EATING ochristos (% ; Agios Ioannis ; mains 6-15) Fisherman-chef and sculptor Christos runs his beachside eatery with unassuming style. It s right on the Shirley Valentine shoreline, but Christos really is authentic Mykonos, where the best fish and seafood is prepared with skill. The mood is cool and relaxing around plates of superb CYCLADES

203 390 DELOS History DELOS Ancient Delos 391 CYCLADES astakos (lobster) plucked fresh from a huge sea water storage basin at the centre of the restaurant. Some of Christo s sculptures can be seen on the beach out front. Tasos Trattoria (% ; Paraga ; mains 9-19) Central to Paraga, this popular taverna offers terrific fish, chicken, pork and veal dishes and a great mix of veggie options. ENTERTAINMENT Cavo Paradiso (% ; When dawn gleams just over the horizon, hard core bar-hoppers move from Hora (Mykonos) to Cavo Paradiso, the megaclub that s been blasting at Paradise since 1993 and has featured top international DJs ever since. Ano Mera Ανω Μέρα The village of Ano Mera, 7km east of Hora, is the island s only inland settlement and is worth a passing visit as an antidote to Hora and the beaches. It s a fairly unassuming place with a big central square flanked on three sides by tavernas. There s a big car park adjoining the main square. The 6th-century Moni Panagias Tourlianis (% ; h9am-1pm & pm) has a fine multistage marble bell tower with elegant carvings and 16th-century icons painted by members of the Cretan School, but pride of place goes to an exquisite wooden iconostasis carved in Florence in the late 1700s. The central square is surrounded by tavernas; popular Vangelis (% ; dishes ) offers tasty spit roasts and fish dishes including kakavia. History Delos won early acclaim as the mythical birthplace of the twins Apollo and Artemis and was first inhabited in the 3rd millennium BC. From the 8th century BC it became a shrine to Apollo and the oldest temples on the island date from this era. The dominant Athenians had full control of Delos and thus the Aegean by the 5th century BC. In 478 BC Athens established an alliance known as the Delian League, which kept its treasury on Delos. A cynical decree ensured that no-one could be born or die on Delos, thus strengthening Athens control over the island by expelling the native population. Delos reached the height of its power in Hellenistic times, becoming one of the three most important religious centres in Greece and a flourishing centre of commerce. Many of its inhabitants were wealthy merchants, mariners and bankers from as far away as Egypt and Syria. They built temples to their homeland gods, but Apollo remained the principal deity. The Romans made Delos a free port in 167 BC. This brought even greater prosperity, due largely to a lucrative slave market that sold up to 10,000 people a day. During the following century, as ancient religions lost relevance and trade routes shifted, Delos began a long, painful decline. By the 3rd century AD there was only a small Christian settlement on the island, and in the following centuries the ancient site was looted of many of its antiquities. It was not until the Renaissance that its antiquarian value was recognised. ANCIENT DELOS SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Agora of the Competialists... 1 A4 Agora of the Delians... 2 B4 Agora of the Italians... 3 B3 Cistern... 4 B6 Dodekatheon... 5 A4 Gymnasium... 6 D2 Hill House... 7 A3 House of Cleopatra... 8 B5 House of Comedians... 9 B2 House of Diadumenos B3 House of Dionysos B5 House of Hermes B5 House of the Dolphins C6 House of the Masks C6 House of the Naxiots B4 House of the Trident B5 Institution of the Poseidoniasts B3 Keraton A4 A E G E A N S E A 35 Sacred Harbour Sacred Way Lake House B3 Monument of the Bulls B4 Museum C4 Palaestra B3 Poros Temple B4 Roman Wall B3 Sacred Cave C6 Sanctuary of Archegetes C3 Sanctuary of Dionysos B4 Sanctuary of the Syrian Gods C5 Shrine to the Egyptian Gods C5 Shrine to the Samothracian Great Gods C5 South Stoa B4 Stadium D2 Stoa of Antigonas B4 Stoa of Philip V B4 Stoa of Poseidon A3 Stoa of the Naxiots A Sacred Lake SANCTUARY OF APOLLO m miles Temple of Apollo B4 Temple of Artemis A4 Temple of the Athenians B4 Terrace of the Lions (Replicas Only) B3 Theatre B5 Tourist Pavilion B4 Wall of the Triarus A5 Warehouses A6 TRANSPORT Excursion Boats to Mykonos A AEGEAN SEA Renia 1 km 0.5 miles Ancient Delos Mt Kynthos (113m) Ekati Delos 32 To Mykonos (5km) CYCLADES DELOS ΔΗΛΟΣ The Cyclades fulfil their collective name (kyklos) by encircling the sacred island of Delos (% ; museum & sites adult/concession 5/3; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), but Mykonos clutches the island jealously to its heart. Delos has no permanent population and is a soothing contrast to the relentless liveliness of modern Mykonos, although in high summer you share it all with fellow visitors. The island is one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece and the most important in the Cyclades. It lies a few kilometres off the west coast of Mykonos. Getting There & Away Boats for Delos (return 8, 30 minutes) leave Hora (Mykonos) at 9am, 9.50am, 10.15am, 11.10am, 11.40pm, 12.20pm and 12.50pm daily (except Monday, when the site is closed) from the Old Jetty at the western end of the harbour. The boats return between 11am and 3pm. Departure and return times are posted on the noticeboard at the Old Jetty, and you can buy tickets for the boat trip directly from the boat operators at the Old Jetty departure point. In Hora (Mykonos), Delia Travel (% ; travel@delia.gr; Akti Kambani) and the Mykonos Accommodation Centre (% ; 1st fl, Enoplon Dynameon 10) sell tickets. Ancient Breakwater 44 Commercial Harbour HARBOUR QUARTER THEATRE QUARTER Delos SANCTUARIES OF THE FOREIGN GODS 25 Mt Kynthos (113m)

204 392 PAROS PAROS Getting There & Away 393 CYCLADES The Mykonos Accommodation Centre organises guided tours to Delos at 10am every day except Monday, between May and September (adult/child 35/28, three hours). They include boat transfers from and to the Old Jetty, admission to the site and museum and an informative tour. Tours are in English, French, German and Italian, and in Spanish and Russian on request. A boat departs for Delos from Mykonos Platys Gialos ( 10, 30 minutes) at 10.15am daily. Boats also operate to Delos from Paros and Naxos ( 40). ANCIENT DELOS The quay where excursion boats dock is south of the tranquil Sacred Harbour. Many of the most significant finds from Delos are in the National Archaeological Museum ( p120 ) in Athens, but the site museum still has an absorbing collection, including the lions from the Terrace of the Lions (those on the terrace itself are plaster-cast replicas). Overnight stays on Delos are forbidden and boat schedules allow a maximum of about six or seven hours there. Bring water and food, as the cafeteria s offerings are poor value for money. Wear a hat and sensible shoes. Exploring the Site The following is an outline of some significant archaeological remains on the site. For further details, a guidebook from the ticket office is advised, or take a guided tour. The rock-encrusted Mt Kythnos (113m) rises elegantly to the southeast of the harbour. It s worth the steep climb, even in the heat. On clear days there are terrific views of the surrounding islands from its summit. The path to Mt Kythnos is reached by walking through the Theatre Quarter, where Delos wealthiest inhabitants once built their houses. These houses surrounded peristyle courtyards, with colourful mosaics (a status symbol) being the most striking feature of each house. The most lavish dwellings were the House of Dionysos, named after the mosaic depicting the wine god riding a panther, and the House of Cleopatra, where headless statues of the owners were found. The House of the Trident was one of the grandest. The House of the Masks, probably an actors hostelry, has another mosaic of Dionysos resplendently astride a panther, and the House of the Dolphins has another exceptional mosaic. The theatre dates from 300 BC and had a large cistern, the remains of which can be seen. It supplied much of the town with water. The houses of the wealthy had their own cisterns essential as Delos was almost as parched and barren then as it is today. Descending from Mt Kythnos, explore the Sanctuaries of the Foreign Gods. Here, at the Shrine to the Samothracian Great Gods, the Kabeiroi (the twins Dardanos and Aeton) were worshipped. At the Sanctuary of the Syrian Gods there are the remains of a theatre where an audience watched ritual orgies. There is also a shrine area where Egyptian deities, including Serapis and Isis, were worshipped. The Sanctuary of Apollo, to the northeast of the harbour, contains temples dedicated to the main man, and is the site of the much-photographed Terrace of the Lions. These proud beasts, carved from marble, were offerings from the people of Naxos, presented to Delos in the 7th century BC to guard the sacred area. To the northeast is the Sacred Lake (dry since it was drained in 1925 to prevent malarial mosquitoes breeding) where, according to legend, Leto gave birth to Apollo and Artemis. PAROS ΠΑΡΟΣ pop 12,853 Paros has a deserved reputation for being a friendly island, and the main port of Parikia certainly seems to welcome you with open arms. Beyond the port the island rises through gentle slopes to Mt Profitis Ilias (770m). White marble made Paros prosperous from the Early Cycladic period onwards most famously, the Venus de Milo was carved from Parian marble, as was Napoleon s tomb. The island is the main ferry hub for onward travel to other islands in the Aegean. The other major settlement, Naousa, on the north coast, is a charming resort with a colourful fishing harbour and a developing waterside lounge scene that may one day rival that of Mykonos. On the east coast is the charming low-key resort of Piso Livadi. Deep at the heart of Paros is the peaceful mountain village of Lefkes. PAROS & ANTIPAROS To Ios (57km); Serifos (72km); Milos (96km); Santorini (105km) Despotiko Agios Georgios To Syros (48km); Piraeus (180km) Antiparos Agios Georgios Cape Skilos Cave of Antiparos Soros A E G E A N S E A Sunset Antiparos Glyfa Apandima Antiparos To Mykonos (54km); Andros (60km); Rafina (126km) Pounda Aliki Agios Fokas Excursion Boat Parasporos Angeria Cape Mavros Cape Agios Fokas Kamari Akrotiri The smaller island of Antiparos, 1km southwest of Paros, is easily reached by car ferry or excursion boat. Getting There & Away AIR Olympic Airlines (% ; at the airport, has daily flights to Athens ( 57, 35 minutes). Until suspension of operations in July of 2007, AirSea Lines (%toll free ; ran one seaplane flight a day from Thursday to Monday between Lavrio and Paros. Due to upgrading requirements the company suspended its Aegean schedule in July The schedule was still suspended at the time of writing (September 2007). The company states, however, that it will resume its Aegean service as soon as possible and readers are advised to check the company website FAST BOAT & CATAMARAN There are three services daily to Piraeus ( 46, 2½ hours) and one a day to Rafina ( 44.50, 2½ hours). There are also at least Krios Parikia Livadia Moni Agiou Ioannou Mt Profitis Ilias (770m) To Naxos (30km); Ikaria (70km); Amorgos (98km); Samos (210km) Paros Marble Quarries Dryos Kamares Marathi Lefkes Prodromos Hrysi Akti Kostos Marpissa Piso Livadi Nea Hrysi Akti Naousa Moni Agiou Ioannou Monastiri Plastira Bay Kolimvythres Lageri Logaras Viva Punda 0 4 km 0 2 miles Cape Korakas Ampelas Marmara Cape Antikefalos Molos Moni Agiou Antonios Santa Maria Cape Agias Marias To Naxos (14km) To Iraklia (28km) two daily to Naxos ( 13, 30 minutes), Tinos ( 21.70, 1¼ hours), Syros ( 16, 45 minutes), Mykonos ( 16.50, one hour), Ios ( 18.90, 1½ hours), Santorini ( 30.50, 2¼ hours) and Amorgos ( 22.50, 1½ to two hours). There is also one service daily to Iraklio on Crete ( 46.90, four hours), and to Folegandros ( 16, three hours and 50 minutes). FERRY There are around six boats daily to Piraeus ( 28, five hours) and Naxos ( 7, one hour), and three daily to Ios ( 12.50, 2½ hours) and Santorini ( 16.50, three to four hours). There are daily services to Mykonos ( 6.80, 1¾ hours), Syros ( 8.50, 1½ hours), Tinos ( 8.80, 2½ hours) and Amorgos ( 15, three to 4½ hours). Six weekly go to Koufonisia ( 15.50, 4½ hours); three weekly go to Sikinos ( 7, three to four hours) and Anafi ( 13.30, six hours), and four weekly go to Astypalea in the Dodecanese ( 28.50, six hours). There are three ferries weekly to Folegandros ( 7.70, 5¾ hours). CYCLADES

205 394 PAROS Parikia PAROS Parikia 395 CYCLADES There are two ferries weekly to Serifos ( 7.80, 2½ hours), Sifnos ( 4, two hours), Milos ( 11.40, six hours), Kimolos ( 9.60, seven hours), Schinousa ( 10, 2¼ hours) and Donousa ( 12.50, two to four hours). There is one boat weekly to Thessaloniki ( 37.50, 15 to 16 hours), Crete ( 23.50, seven to eight hours), Skiathos ( 29.60, 10 hours), Rhodes ( 28.70, 12 to 15 hours) and Kalymnos ( 22.70, 8¾ hours). Getting Around BUS About 12 buses daily link Parikia and Naousa ( 1.20) directly, and there are seven buses daily from Parikia to Naousa via Dryos, Hrysi Akti, Marpissa, Marmara, Prodromos, Lefkes, Kostos and Marathi. There are 10 buses to Pounta (for Antiparos; 1.90) and six to Aliki (via the airport; 1.20). CAR, MOTORCYCLE & BICYCLE There are rental outlets along the waterfront in Parikia and all around the island. A good outfit is Acropolis (% ). Minimum rental per day in August for a car is about 45; for a motorbike it s 19. TA X I Taxis (% ) gather beside the roundabout in Parikia. Fixed fares: airport 12, Naousa 10, Pounta 8, Lefkes 10 and Piso Livadi 13. There are extra charges of 1.50 for luggage and 2.50 if you book ahead. WATER TAXI Water taxis leave from the quay for beaches around Parikia. Tickets ranging from 7 to 12 are available on board. PARIKIA ΠΑΡΟΙΚΙΑ pop 4522 The harbourfront of Parikia is a busy, cheerful place compared with the town s Cycladic old quarter, where peaceful, narrow streets wriggle around the built-over shell of the 13th-century Venetian kastro. The fortification crowns a slight rise above the waterfront, southeast of the ferry quay. Orientation The busy hub of Parikia is the windmill roundabout, where you come off the ferry quay. The main square, Mavrogenous, which was being refurbished in 2007, is straight ahead from the windmill. The busy road to the left leads along the northern waterfront to the beach at Livadia. The road to the right follows the café- and taverna-lined southwestern waterfront. Agora (Market St) is the main commercial thoroughfare running southwest from Mavrogenous through the narrow and pedestrianised streets of the old town. The bus station is 50m to the right of the quay (looking inland) and the post office is 400m to the left. Information BOOKSHOPS Newsstand (Ekatondapylia) A great selection of newspapers, magazines and books in all languages. EMERGENCY Police station (% ; Mavrogenous) Port police (% ) Back from the northern waterfront, near the post office. INTERNET ACCESS Memphis.net (% ; per 15min 1; h9am-midnight Jun-Aug, 10am-midnight Apr, May, Sep & Oct) An impressive range of services, including wi-fi for notebook computers and digital picture transfer. Wired Café (% ; Agora; per hr 3.50; h10.30am-2pm & 6-11pm Mon-Sat, 6-11pm Sun) Reliable internet access in a relaxed atmosphere. Also has connections for laptop computers, and digital picture transfer. INTERNET RESOURCES Paros Life ( LAUNDRY Ostria Laundry (% , ; per wash & dry around 10; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am- 2pm Sun Jun-Sep, 9am-2pm & pm Oct-May) The average load is ready in two hours at this friendly place. MEDICAL SERVICES Health Centre (% ; Prombona; h9am- 1.30pm Mon-Fri) Also has a dentist. MONEY All the following banks have ATMS. Alpha Bank (Ekantondapylianis) Commercial Bank of Greece ( Mavrogenous) Eurobank (Ekantondapylianis) National Bank of Greece ( Mavrogenous) POST Post office (% ) Located 400m east of the ferry quay. TOURIST INFORMATION In high season, kiosks on the quay give out information on domatia and hotels (see Rooms Association, p396 ). TRAVEL AGENCIES Santorineos Travel Services (% ) On the waterfront, just to the southwest of the windmill roundabout. Sells ferry tickets and can advise on accommodation and tours, and has a luggage store. Other services include bureau de change, FedEx and Moneygram (international money transfers). PARIKIA INFORMATION Alpha Bank... 1 B2 Commercial Bank of Greece... 2 B3 Eurobank... 3 B3 Health Centre... 4 C2 Memphis.net... 5 C2 National Bank of Greece... 6 B3 Newsstand... 7 B2 Ostria Laundry... 8 C2 Police Station... 9 B2 Port Police C2 Post Office C2 Rooms Association B2 Wired Café B3 Parikia Bay River/Road D Vasileou To Pounta (7km); Airport (10km) A Marinopoulou Town Hall Mavrogenous Agora (Market St) P Kallirou Windmill Roundabout Makedonias Yacht Ferry Marina Quay G Gravari 19 Ekantondapylianis River/Road Prombona 20 Sights The Panagia Ekatondapyliani (% ; Ekatondapyliani; h7.30am-9.30pm Easter-Sep, 8am-1pm & 4-9pm Oct-Easter), which dates from AD 326, is one of the most splendid churches in the Cyclades. The building is three distinct churches: Agios Nikolaos, the largest, with superb columns of Parian marble and a carved iconostasis, is in the east of the compound; the others are the Church of Our Lady and the Baptistery. The name translates as Our Lady of the Hundred Gates, but this is a wishful rounding-up of a still-impressive number of doorways. The Byzantine Museum (admission 1.50; h9.30am-2pm & 6-9pm), within the compound, has a collection of icons and other artefacts. 17 Fishing Boat Harbour m miles 11 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Ancient Cemetery C2 Archaeological Museum C3 Byzantine Museum...(see 17) Frankish Kastro B3 Panagia Ekatontapyliani C3 SLEEPING Albatross B2 Angie's Studios B3 Festos B3 Hotel Argonauta B3 Jane's Rooms B3 Pension Rena C2 Rooms Mike C2 Sofia Pension D2 Livadia 25 Nikolaou Stellaa To Krios Camping (4km) To Naousa (10km) EATING Apollon B3 Argonauta Taverna...(see 21) Café Micro B3 Christos Restaurant A3 Happy Green Cows B3 Levantis A3 DRINKING Ellinadiko Island B2 Enigma A3 Evinos A3 Pebbles Jazz Bar A3 Simple Cafe...(see 33) SHOPPING comber Books B3 TRANSPORT Acropolis C2 Bus Station B2 Taxi Stand B2 Water Taxi to es and Excursion Boats to Antiparos B2 CYCLADES

206 396 PAROS Parikia Book accommodation online at PAROS Naousa 397 CYCLADES Next to a school behind the Panagia Ekatondapyliani, the Archaeological Museum (% ; admission 2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) has some interesting reliefs and statues, including a Gorgon, but the most important exhibit is a fragment of the 4th-century Parian Chronicle, which lists the most outstanding artistic achievements of ancient Greece. It was discovered in the 17th century and most of it ended up in the Ashmolean Museum, in Oxford. North along the waterfront there is a fenced ancient cemetery dating from the 7th century BC; it was excavated in Roman graves, burial pots and sarcophagi are floodlit at night. The Frankish Kastro was built on the remains of a temple to Athena that was built by Marco Sanudo, Duke of Naxos, in AD Not much of the kastro remains, save for a large wall that is a jigsaw of unpainted column bases and dressed blocks, where pigeons now roost in the cracks. Tours Santorineos Travel Services (% ) can book bus tours of Paros ( 30), boat trips to Mykonos and Delos ( 40), and boats to Santorini (including a bus tour of the island, 60). Excursion boats also make the trip to Antiparos in summer. Sleeping In August the Rooms Association (% , after hrs ), located on the quay, has information on domatia; otherwise, owners meet ferries. For Hotel Association details, call % for information about hotels on Paros and Antiparos. All camping grounds have minibuses that meet ferries. BUDGET Krios Camping (% ; camp sites per adult/child/tent 7/4/4; hjun-sep; s) This fine site on the north shore of Parikia Bay is about 4km from the port, but there s a water taxi across the bay to Parikia every 10 minutes for 3 per person (return). You can rent tents for 8 and static tent bungalows for 25. A new restaurant (dishes from 3.50 to 6) specialises in Greek and Italian food and offers breakfasts for 3.50 to 4. Pension Rena (% ; /rena; s/d/tr 30/40/50; a) One of the best choices in town, these immaculate rooms are excellent value, and there s a charming welcome. The rooms are in a quiet but handy location just back from the waterfront. Air-conditioning is 5 extra. The owners also have good apartments to rent in Naousa. Rooms Mike (% ; roommike@otenet.gr; s/d/tr 30/40/50, studios 55; a) A long-standing favourite in sight of the ferry quay, you ll never be short of a friendly chat and advice at Mike s place. There s a shared kitchen and a roof terrace. Studios are in another building, a block inland. Credit cards are accepted. Festos (% ; consolas@hol.gr; s/d incl breakfast 40/60; hapr-oct) has a central location in a quiet street. Rooms are a touch cramped, but are well kept and clean. MIDRANGE osofia Pension (% ; sion-paros.com; s/d/tr 60/70/80; pai) Set in a beautiful garden, full of colour and greenery and lovingly tended, this delightful place has immaculate rooms with individual décor. The owners are charming and helpful. Breakfast is available for 6. Hotel Argonauta (% ; Mavrogenous; s/d/tr 60/71/85; a) A longestablished family-run hotel with a central location overlooking Mavrogenous, the Argonauta has a welcoming atmosphere and has been recently refurbished. The furnishings have charming traditional touches, and the rooms are spotless and comfy and have double-glazing. Angie s Studios (% /6977; -studios.gr; Makedonias; d 65; hapr-oct; pa) A delightful patio and garden glowing with bougainvillea and flowers surrounds these handsome studios. They re in a very quiet area that s a reasonable distance from the seafront. The studios are big and extremely well kept and each has its own kitchen. There are generous discounts in the low season. Jane s Rooms (% ; Kastro; s/d 50/65; a) are pleasant rooms at the heart of the atmospheric Kastro area. There are also apartments on the north side of the bay at Krios, 1.5km out of town. Eating Café Micro (% ; Agora) This great gathering spot for locals and visitors alike is bright and friendly and lies at the heart of Kastro. It offers breakfasts for 4, as well as coffee and snacks, fresh fruit and vegetarian juices. There are drinks and music into the early hours. Albatross (% ; D. Vasiliou; mains 5-14) A classic fish taverna, Albatross is a local favourite not least because of its excellent fish dishes. The fisherman s salad for 14 is a sure bet, or savour cuttlefish with spinach in an unfussy setting on the waterfront. olevantis (% ; Kastro; dishes 9-15) A courtyard garden setting enhances the experience at this long-established restaurant at the heart of Kastro. There are subtle international touches to the imaginative cuisine in such dishes as Greek-style mussels with spicy sausage and ouzo. Other treats include rigatoni with spinach, wild mushrooms and roasted cherry tomatoes. Desserts such as white chocolate and amaretto mousse with sour cherries round things off. Excellent house wine is underpinned with a good choice of more-expensive wines. Happy Green Cows (% ; dishes 12-22; h7pm-midnight) Camp décor and cheerful service goes with the quirky name (inspired by a surreal dream, apparently) of this little eatery that is a vegetarian s delight. It s a touch pricey, but worth it for the often saucily named dishes. Meals include prawns in a vodka sauce, zucchini croquettes, crispy potatoes and yogurt sauce, or crispy pitta, peppers and creamy feta sauce. Also recommended: Christos Restaurant (% ; Di Vasiliou; mains ) Reliable Greek dishes and homemade pasta on the seafront. Argonauta Taverna (% ; mains ) Attached to the hotel of the same name and offering sturdy Greek standards. Apollon (% ; Agora; mains 9-22) A long-established restaurant in Kastro. It exudes attention to detail, right down to the linen tablecloths and photo gallery of famous guests. Drinking Ellinadiko (% ) Also known as Island, this popular local bar with foot-stomping Greek music and late-night dancing is in an alleyway between Mavrogenous and the seafront. opebbles Jazz Bar (% ) Heading down through Kastro in the late evening you d think Pebbles sunset backdrop was a vast painting. Perched above the seafront, this chilled, friendly place has classical music by day and jazz in the evenings, with occasional live performers during July and August. Pebbles has an adjacent mezedhopoleio (restaurant specialising in mezedhes), open from 9am to 1am it has breakfast from 4.50 to 7 and a great selection of mezedhes for 7 to 8, as well as omelettes and salads. Enigma (% ; D Vasileou) One of several music bars along the southern waterfront, Enigma goes hard into the early hours, when the sounds are a touch more Greek. There are more bars along the southern waterfront, including some busy rooftop places like Evinos and Simple Cafe. Shopping comber Books (% , ; Agora) Everything from electrical goods to secondhand books are sold and bought for credit at this cheerful Aladdin s Cave. NAOUSA ΝΑΟΥΣΑ pop 2316 Fast stealing some of the glitz and glamour of Mykonos, Naousa has transformed itself from a quiet fishing village into a popular tourist resort. Found on the north coast of Paros, there are good beaches nearby, and the town has several excellent restaurants and a growing number of beachside eateries and bars. Behind the waterfront is a maze of narrow whitewashed streets, peppered with fish and flower motifs and with a mix of smart boutiques and souvenir shops. Orientation & Information The bus from Parikia terminates some way up from the main square just in from the waterfront, where a dried-up riverbed serves as a road leading south and inland. The main street of Naousa lies on the left of the riverbed. If arriving by car, be warned: parking in certain areas is banned from June to September. Signs may not be clear, but the 35 fines are painfully so. Naousa Information (% ; h10ammidnight Jul & Aug, 11am-1pm & 6-10pm mid-jun Jul) can find you accommodation and is based in a booth by the main square. The post office is a tedious uphill walk from the main square. There are several banks with ATMs around the main square. For internet access, try Jamnet3 (% ; per hour 2.50; h10am-1am), just by the entrance to the main square. CYCLADES

207 398 PAROS Naousa Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at PAROS Around Paros 399 CYCLADES Sights & Activities Naousa s Byzantine museum (admission 1.80; h11am-1.30pm & 7-9pm Tue, Thu, Sat & Sun) is housed in the blue-domed church, about 200m uphill from the central square on the main road to Parikia. A small folklore museum (% ; admission 1.80; h9am-1pm & 6-9pm), which focuses on regional costumes, can be reached by heading inland from the main square to another blue-domed church. Turn right behind the church. The best beaches in the area are Kolymvithres, which has interesting rock formations; and Monastiri, which has some good snorkelling and a clubbing venue. Low-key Lageri is also worth seeking out. Santa Maria, on the other side of the eastern headland, is good for windsurfing. They can all be reached by road, but caïques go from Naousa to each of them during July and August. Kokou Riding Centre (% ) has morning ( 45), evening ( 30) and one-hour ( 25) horse rides, and can arrange pick-up from Naousa s main square for a small charge. The rides explore the surrounding countryside and coast of the area. Tours Naousa Paros Sailing Center (% ; sailing@ par.forthnet.gr) offers sailing tours to Naxos, Delos or Iraklia. A full day is 90 per person and departs at 10am. Half-day tours and yacht charters are also available. Sleeping There are two camping grounds, both with minibuses that meet ferries. Visit the Naousa Information booth ( p397 ) for help with finding accommodation. Camping Naousa (% ; camp sites per adult/child/tent 7/4/4) This pleasant camping ground is at Kolimvythres. It has a small taverna and lovely bays nearby. Surfing (% ; fax ; info@surfbeach.gr; camp sites per adult/tent 7.50/3.60) A fairly large site, but with reasonable facilities and a good location at Santa Maria. The site has a windsurfing and water-skiing school. Young Inn (% ; dm 15-20, d/tr 60/60; pai) This cheerful, wellrun place caters for a young, international clientele and organises events and outings. Scooter rental can be arranged. Breakfasts start at 3. It s located to the east of the harbour, behind Naousa s cathedral. Hotel Galini (% ; fax ; s/d 50/60) Opposite the blue-domed local church (Byzantine museum), on the main road into town from Parikia, this charming and friendly little hotel has unfussy rooms that are being steadily updated. Hotel Stella (% ; s/d 45/65) Deep in the heart of the old town and within a leafy, colourful garden, this friendly hotel has excellent rooms and good facilities. It s best reached by heading up the main street, turning left at the National Bank, going beneath an archway, and then turning right and up past a small church. okaterina s Rooms (% ; s/d/tr 60/75/90, studio 120; a) Unbeatable views make these immaculate rooms (complete with tea- and coffee-making facilities) an excellent choice. You need to hike uphill a touch, but it s all worth it and the welcome is friendly. Prices drop substantially in low season. Eating & Drinking omoshonas (% ; dishes ) Located alongside several harbourside tavernas is this long-standing favourite ouzerie (place that serves ouzo and light snacks). It s right on the edge of the harbour, and you re likely to see the family s own caïques tie up and deliver the fresh octopus that will soon be on your plate. Seafood is by the kilogram. Glafkos (% ; mains ) There s a great beachside terrace at this little place, where you can enjoy some mouthwatering seafood dishes such as shrimps and manouri, and scallops in a tasty cream sauce. Perivolaria (% ; dishes ) Relax in this long-established restaurant s garden and sample first-class Greek and international cuisine, including delicious pizzas and pastas. It is reached along the river road from the main square. Christos (% ; dishes 12-24; h7pm-1am Apr-Oct) A leafy canopy of vines adds style to the lovely courtyard dining area of Christos, which is enhanced even more by the paintings that line the walls. The food matches the attentive service and is modern Mediterranean with exquisite touches, all backed by a superb wine list. To get here, head up the main street, and it s on the left after about 50m. Along the beachfront beyond the harbour, there s a developing fringe of cafés and music bars with cool lounge décor worthy of Mykonos. Places like Fotis (% ) and Briki (% ) spill out onto little beaches and play a mix of classical strands by day and jazzier, funkier sounds by night. AROUND PAROS Lefkes Λεύκες Lovely Lefkes clings to a natural amphitheatre amid hills whose summits are dotted with old windmills. Siesta is taken seriously here and the village has a general air of serenity. It lies 9km southeast of Parikia, high among the hills, and was capital of Paros during the Middle Ages. The village s main attractions are its pristine alleyways and buildings. The Cathedral of Agia Triada is an impressive building that s shaded by olive trees. From the central square, a signpost points to a well-preserved Byzantine path, which leads in 3km to the village of Prodromos. At the edge of the village, keep left at a junction (signposted) with a wider track. Sections of the route retain their original paving. Down on the coast is the attractive harbour and low-key resort of Piso Livadi, where there is a pleasant beach. Perantinos Travel & Tourism (% ; perantin@otenet.gr) can arrange accommodation, car rental and boat trips to other islands. There is an ATM next to Perantinos. es There is a fair scattering of beaches around the island s coastline, including a good one at Krios, accessible by water taxi (return 4) from Parikia. Paros top beach, Hrysi Akti (Golden ), on the southeast coast, is hardly spectacular, but it has good sand and several tavernas, and is popular with windsurfers. There is a decent enough beach at Aliki on the south coast. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES The straits between Paros and Antiparos are especially suited to windsurfing and the spectacular sport of kiteboarding effectively windsurfing in midair. Down the coast at Pounda, Eurodivers Club (% ; Pounda) offers an impressive range of diving courses and dives for all levels and interests. A PADI open-water certification course costs 410, all inclusive. Paros Kite Pro Centre (% ; well run by the same team as Eurodivers Club, offers a range of courses. These include an introductory one-hour kiteboarding session for 50, while more-intensive courses start at 220 for four to six hours. Eurodivers and Paros Kite also run a useful mixed activities day that includes diving, kiteboarding, discovering scuba, snorkelling and a boat cruise, for 65. At Golden (Hrysi Akti), Aegean Diving College (% , ; offers a range of dives of archaeological and ecological interest led by scientists and experienced professional divers. A discover scuba dive costs 75, and PADI open-water certification is 450. Octopus Sea Trips (% ; seatrips.com), based at Golden and affiliated with Aegean Diving College, offers marine environmental courses and activities with snorkelling and diving for families and children. Fanatic Fun Centre (% ; -paros.com; Hrysi Akti) offers catamaran sailing, water-skiing and windsurfing. One-hour windsurfing instruction costs 23 and a twohour kiteboarding course is 75. SLEEPING & EATING Piso Livadi has a number of modern rooms and apartments and a few decent tavernas, and there s a camping ground on the outskirts of town. oanna s Studios (% ; Piso Livadi; s/d 50/65, studios 70-90; ai) Located on the harbourfront at Piso Livadi, these rooms and studios are bright and immaculate and have tea- and coffee-making facilities. The family owners are charming. The studios are a little way out of the harbour area. Halaris Taverna (% ; mains ) There are a number of tavernas and cafés on the waterfront at Piso Livadi, but Halaris is a great choice. There s fresh fish available from the family s own boat and a fish plate costs 8, while the shrimp pies are delicious. Other treats range from zucchini croquettes to homemade cheese and spinach pies. Thea (% , ; dishes 9-14) With a waterside location near the Antiparos ferry quay at Pounta, echoes of old Greece and Asia Minor hang in the air at this great restaurant. Mains include Cappadocian lamb with apricots, or beef with quinces, rice and plums. There are over 450 different vintages kept in a wine room cum-bar, which even has CYCLADES

208 400 ANTIPAROS Getting There & Away Book accommodation online at NAXOS Getting There & Away 401 CYCLADES a glass floor with bottles nestling beneath your feet. ENTERTAINMENT Punda Club (% ; This all-day clubbing venue, at Viva Punda, is a huge complex with swimming pools, bars, restaurants, a gym, live-music shows and a relentlessly crowded beach scene. ANTIPAROS ΑΝΤΙΠΑΡΟΣ pop 1037 You ll feel you re escaping from the mainstream on this delightful island, which is rightly proud of its distinctiveness and of its independence from Paros; forget this at your peril in front of local people. The main village and port (also called Antiparos) is a bright and friendly place. There s a touristy gloss round the waterfront and main streets, but the village runs deep inland to quiet squares and alleyways that give way suddenly to open fields. Getting There & Away In summer, frequent excursion boats depart for Antiparos from Parikia. There is also a half-hourly car ferry that runs from Pounta on the west coast of Paros to Antiparos (one way 0.70, per car 7, per scooter 1.80, 10 minutes); the first ferry departs for Antiparos at around 7.15am and the last boat returning leaves Antiparos at 12.30am. Getting Around The only bus service on Antiparos runs, in summer, to the cave in the centre of the island ( 1.20). The bus continues to Soros and Agios Georgios. Orientation & Information Keep going straight ahead from the ferry quay and along the waterfront. Midway, the main street, Agora, strikes inland by Anargyros restaurant. Halfway up the main street are an Emporiki Bank and National Bank of Greece, both with ATMs. The post office is also here. The central square is reached by turning left at the top of the main street and then right, behind Smiles Cafe. To reach the kastro, another Venetian creation, go under the stone arch that leads north off the central square. The rest of the island runs to the south of the main settlement through quiet countryside. There are several decent beaches, especially at Glyfa and Soros on the east coast. There are several travel agencies, including Antiparos Travel Agency (% ; hjun mid- Oct) by the waterfront, which can help you with your accommodation needs. Blue Island Divers (% ; can also arrange accommodation and car hire. Sights Despite previous looting of stalactites and stalagmites, the Cave of Antiparos (admission 3.50; h10.45am-3.45pm summer) is still awe-inspiring. It is 8km south of the port. Follow the coast road south until you reach a signed turn-off into the hills. There are tours every hour. From the port there are hourly buses to the cave (one way 1.20). Activities On the main pedestrian thoroughfare of town, with a gear and clothes shop attached, Blue Island Divers (% ; is friendly and helpful, and has a wide range of dive options. The owners have a great knowledge of the Antiparos scene. Accommodation and car rental can also be arranged. A four-day PADI open-water course is 380 and an advanced course is 320. A discover scuba diving day session is 45. Trips can be tailored to suit individual wishes and there are advanced courses available. Tours MS Thiella (% ) runs tours around the island daily, stopping at several beaches. The price (adults 40, children 20) covers barbeque and drinks; you can book at Antiparos Travel Agency ( above ). Sleeping Camping Antiparos (% ; camp sites per adult/child/tent 6/4/4) This pleasant beachside camping ground is planted with bamboo and cedars and is 1.5km north of the port. It has a minimarket, bar and restaurant. A site bus picks up from the port. Anarghyros (% ; mak@par.forthnet.gr; s/d 35/50; a) There s good value at this well-kept family-run hotel on the waterfront, where rooms are a decent size and come with teaand coffee-making facilities. Attached to the hotel is a decent restaurant offering standard Greek dishes from 5 to 9. Hotel Mantalena (% ; talena.gr; s/d/tr 50/65/75; ai) The recently refurbished Mantalena has bright, clean rooms and is located a short distance to the north of the main harbour quay. There s a pleasant terrace and the building is set back from the harbour road. Eating & Drinking The main street of Antiparos has several cafés and tavernas serving Greek staples and fish dishes. Maki s (% ; dishes ) Seafood is the speciality at this harbourfront taverna. It s generally excellent, from the prawn souvlaki with calamari to lobster (when available). Yam Bar Restaurant and Cocktail Bar (dishes 6-9; h8pm-4am mid-jun mid-sep) You can enjoy salads and delicious cold plates of chicken or pasta at this relaxing spot, with views of the sea. Sounds are a general mix that includes Latin and house and occasional jazz. It s signposted left off the top end of Market St. Soul Sugar is along to the right from the top of the main street. It plays funk, disco and house into the small hours, and serves great cocktails. NAXOS ΝΑΞΟΣ pop 18,188 It was on Naxos that an ungrateful Theseus is said to have abandoned Ariadne after she helped him escape the Cretan labyrinth. In keeping with even mythic soap opera, she didn t pine long, and was soon entwined with Dionysos, the god of wine and ecstasy and the island s favourite deity. Naxian wine has long been considered a fine antidote for a broken heart. The island was a cultural centre of classical Greece and of Byzantium. Venetian and Frankish influences have left their mark. Naxos is more fertile than most of the other islands and produces olives, grapes, figs, citrus fruit, corn and potatoes. Mt Zeus (1004m; also known as Mt Zas or Zefs) is the Cyclades highest peak and is the central focus of the island s mountainous interior, in which you find enchanting villages such as Halki and Apiranthos. There are numerous fine beaches and the island is a wonderful place to explore on foot, as many old paths between villages, churches and other sights still survive. There are a number of walking guides and maps, including the useful Central Naxos A Guide with Map ( 8), available from local bookshops. Getting There & Away A I R There is at least one flight daily and two on Sunday to Athens ( 58, 45 minutes). Olympic Airlines is represented by Naxos Tours (% ; naxostours@naxos-island.com), on the waterfront, which also sells ferry tickets. FAST BOAT & CATAMARAN There are at least two catamarans daily to Paros ( 13.50, 45 minutes), Mykonos ( 19.50, 1½ hours) and Piraeus ( 51, four hours). There are also daily services to Ios ( 20.20, 50 minutes), Santorini ( 23.60, 1½ hours) and Iraklio on Crete ( 40.90, 3¼ hours), and four weekly to Tinos ( 20, 1½ hours) and Syros ( 21, 1¼ hours). FERRY There are price differences of about 1 to 3 between ferry companies whose vessels operate on the same ferry route. The more-expensive price is given here. Naxos has around six ferry connections daily with Piraeus ( 29, five hours), Paros ( 7, one hour), Ios ( 11.50, 1¼ hours) and Santorini ( 15.50, three hours), as well as four daily with Mykonos ( 7.70, three hours). There is one daily boat to Tinos ( 7.80, 4¼ hours), Syros ( 11.50, three hours), Iraklia ( 7, one hour), Schinousa ( 7.50, 1¼ hours), Koufonisia ( 9, two hours), Amorgos ( 14, 2½ hours), Donousa ( 9, one to four hours) and Ikaria ( 12.20, 1½ hours). There are five ferries weekly to Anafi ( 13.60, seven hours). There are two boats weekly to Astypalea ( 23, 5½ hours), Sikinos ( 6.30, 3½ hours) and Folegandros ( 9.30, 2½ hours). One ferry goes weekly to Kythnos ( 14.80, seven hours), Kea ( 14.40, 8¾ hours), Lavrio ( 18.50, 10 hours), Thessaloniki ( 36.30, 15 hours), Rhodes ( 23, 14 hours), Kos ( 16, 8¼ hours) and Iraklio ( 19.50, seven hours). CYCLADES

209 402 NAXOS Hora (Naxos) NAXOS Hora (Naxos) 403 CYCLADES NAXOS To Piraeus (190km) To Syros (55km); Tinos (55km); Thessaloniki (545km) Paros Piso Livadi To Sikinos (30km) To Delos (35km) To Ios (51km); Santorini (87km); Crete (198km) To Mykonos (46km) Agios Georgios Cape Agios Prokopios Agia Anna Agios Prokopios Plaka Mikri Vigla Kastraki Alyko Agiassou Bay To Samos (180km); Kos (170km); Rhodes (320km) Amyti Bay Hora (Naxos) Getting Around TO/FROM THE AIRPORT The airport is 3km south of Hora. There is no shuttle bus, but buses to Agios Prokopios and Agia Anna pass close by. A taxi costs 12 to 15 depending on the time of day and if booked. BUS Frequent buses run to Agia Anna ( 1.40) from Hora. Five buses daily serve Filoti ( 1.80) via Halki ( 1.40); four serve Apiranthos ( 2.60) via Filoti and Halki; and at least three serve Apollonas ( 4.30), Pyrgaki ( 2.20) and Melanes ( 1.40). There are less-frequent departures to other villages. Mili Melanes Kouros Moni Ano Moutsouna Potamia Mt Fanari Kato (883m) Potamia Halki Mesi Metohi Apiranthos Potamia TRAGAEA Filoti Damalas Sangri Damarionas Danakos Cave of Bazeos Zeus Castle Temple of Psili Ammos Demeter Naxos Mt Zeus (1004m) Pyrgaki Engares Cape Katomeri Agios Georgios Abram Koronos Keramoti Kinidaros See Little Cyclades Map (p410) Kalandos Bay Iraklia Myrisis Koronida Kouros Stavros Schinousa Hora (Panagia) 0 8 km 0 4 miles Cape Stavros Apollonas Mesi Liona Bay Moutsouna Bay A E G E A N S E A Prassoura Ano Hora To Amorgos (24km); Koufonisia Donousa (45km); Astypalea (60km) Kato Koufonisia Keros Buses leave from the end of the ferry quay in Hora; timetables are posted outside the bus information office. CAR & MOTORCYCLE In August you can hire cars from about 45 to 55 per day, and motorcycles from about 20. Rental Center (% ; Evripeou) is a good bet. HORA (NAXOS) ΧΩΡΑ (ΝΑΞΟΣ) pop 6533 Busy Hora, on the west coast of Naxos, is the island s port and capital. It s a large town, divided into two historic neighbourhoods Bourgos, where the Greeks lived, and the hilltop Kastro, where the Venetian Catholics lived. Orientation The ferry quay is at the northern end of the waterfront, with the bus station at its inland end. The broad waterfront, Protopapadaki, known universally as Paralia, leads off to the south from the ferry quay and is lined with cafés, tavernas and shops on its inland side. Behind Paralia, narrow alleyways twist and turn beneath archways as they climb into the Kastro. A northerly turn at the end of the ferry quay leads to a causeway over to Palatia Islet and the unfinished Temple of Apollo, Naxos most famous landmark, known as the Portara. There is not much else to see at the temple other than the two columns and their crowning lintel surrounded by fallen masonry. There are a few swimming spots along the waterfront promenade below the temple. Southwest of the town is the pleasant, but busy, beach of Agios Georgios. Information BOOKSHOPS Zoom (% ; Paralia) A large, well-stocked newsagent and bookshop that has most international newspapers and one of the biggest selections of books, in various languages, in the entire Cyclades. EMERGENCY Police station (% ; Paparrigopoulou) Southeast of Protodikiou. Port police (% ) Just south of the quay. INTERNET ACCESS Rental Center (% ; Evripeou; per hr 3) Zas Travel (% ; fax ; Paralia; per hr 4) LAUNDRY To Ariston (% ; 5kg wash & dry 10; h8am-2pm & pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 8am-2pm Wed & Sat) MEDICAL SERVICES Medical Centre (% ; Prantouna) MONEY All the following banks have ATMs. There s also a National Bank of Greece ATM outside the Naxos Tourist Information Centre (see Tourist Information, below ). Agricultural Bank of Greece (Paralia) Alpha Bank (cnr Paralia & Papavasiliou) National Bank of Greece (Paralia) POST Post office (Agios Giorgiou) Go past the OTE, across Papavasiliou, and left at the forked road. TELEPHONE OTE (telecommunications office; Paralia) Has several phone kiosks in an alleyway. TOURIST INFORMATION Naxos Tourist Information Centre (NTIC; % , emergency ; apollon-hotel@naxos -island.com) There is no official tourist information centre on Naxos, but this privately owned office, directly opposite the main ferry quay, can arrange accommodation, excursions, rental cars and laundry service; luggage storage is also available ( 1.50). The NTIC does not sell ferry tickets. TRAVEL AGENCIES Naxos Tours and Zas Travel both sell ferry tickets and organise accommodation, tours and rental cars. Naxos Tours (% ; Paralia) Zas Travel (% ; zas-travel@nax.forthnet. gr; Paralia) Sights To see the Bourgos area, head into the winding backstreets behind the northern end of Paralia. The most alluring part of Hora is the residential Kastro. Marco Sanudo made the town the capital of his duchy in 1207, and several Venetian mansions survive. Take a stroll around the Kastro during siesta to experience its hushed, timeless atmosphere. A short distance behind the northern end of the waterfront are several churches and chapels, and the Mitropolis Museum (% ; Kondyli; admission free; h8.30am-3pm). The museum features fragments of a Mycenaean city of the 13th to 11th centuries BC that was abandoned because of the threat of flooding by the sea. It s a haunting place where glass panels underfoot reveal ancient foundations and larger areas of excavated buildings. The archaeological museum (% ; admission 3; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) is in Kastro, housed in the former Jesuit school where novelist Nikos Kazantzakis was briefly a CYCLADES

210 404 NAXOS Hora (Naxos) Book accommodation online at NAXOS Hora (Naxos) 405 CYCLADES HORA (NAXOS) INFORMATION Agricultural Bank of Greece & ATM... 1 C4 Alpha Bank & ATM... 2 B5 Bus Information Office... 3 B3 Information Booth... 4 B3 Medical Centre... 5 D5 National Bank of Greece & ATM... 6 C4 National Bank of Greece ATM...(see 6) Naxos Tourist Information Centre...(see 6) Palatia Islet Breakwater A E G E A N S E A Temple of Apollo TRANSPORT Bus Station B3 Ferries to Mykonos, Paros, Piraeus, Ios & Santorini B3 Ferry to Little Cyclades & Amorgos B4 4 Quay EATING Bakery...(see 15) East West Asian Restaurant C6 Irini's B3 Maro's C5 Meze B3 Picasso Mexican Bistro C6 Popi's Grill C4 Taverna Koutouki C3 Vidalis Supermarket D3 Zoom Minimarket C4 DRINKING Jam C5 Lemon B4 On the Rocks C5 ENTERTAINMENT Abyss C3 Cine Astra D6 Della Rocca-Barozzi Venetian Museum...(see 17) Ocean B5 SHOPPING Antico Veneziano...(see 16) Takis' Shop B Agios Georgios Naxos Tours... 7 C4 OTE... 8 B5 Port Police... 9 B3 Post Office B6 Rental Center C5 To Ariston C5 Town Hall B6 Zas Travel B3 Zoom C4 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Archaeological Museum C4 Della-Rocca-Barozzi Venetian Museum C Odos Komiakis Ariadnis 45 Mandilara 9 10 Apollonos Grotta Protopapadaki (Paralia) Neofytou Evripeou (Main Square) Agiou Arseniou To Flisvos Sport Club (300m) m miles Bourgos Kastro Pigadakia Papavassiliou Exarhopoulou Prantouna Paparrigopoulou Mitropolis Museum C3 Naos Silver Gallery C4 Naxos Tourist Information Centre B3 Roman Catholic Cathedral C4 SLEEPING Chateau Zevgoli C3 Despina's Rooms C3 Hotel Apollon C3 Hotel Glaros B6 Hotel Grotta D3 Pension Irene I D5 Pension Irene II D6 Pension Sofi C Neofitou Alexinoros Ifikratidou Nassi 27 To Atlantic Supermarket (500m); Engares (8km); Apollonas (34km) 43 To Police Station (500m); Naxos Camping (1km); Agios Prokopios (3km); Airport (3km); Agia Anna & Plaka (6km) 5 Dionyssou 37 To Halki (15km); Filoti (19km); Apiranthos (26km); Apollonas (52km) pupil. The contents include Hellenistic and Roman terracotta figurines and some early Cycladic figurines. Close by, the Della Rocca-Barozzi Venetian Museum (% ; guided tours adult/student 5/3; h10am-3pm & 7-10pm end May mid-sep), a handsome old tower house of the 13th century, is within the Kastro ramparts (by the northwest gate). A visit takes you into the fascinating world of the historic Kastro and its Frankish and Venetian past. There are changing art exhibitions in the vaults. Tours are multilingual. The museum also runs tours (adult/student 15/10) of the Kastro at 11am from Tuesday to Sunday; tours last just over two hours. Evening concerts and other events are staged in the grounds of the museum (see p407 ). The Roman Catholic cathedral (h6.30pm-8.30pm), also in the Kastro, is worth visiting. Activities Flisvos Sport Club (% ; Agios Georgios) offers a range of windsurfing options, starting with a beginner s course of six hours for 160, or a four-hour Hobie Cat sailing course for 95. The club also organises walking trips and rents out mountain bikes for 6 to 8 a day. Naxos Horse Riding (% ) organises daily horse rides (10am to 1pm and 5pm to 8pm), inland and on beaches (per person 45). You can book a ride up until 6pm the day before and can arrange pick-up and return, to and from the stables. Beginners, young children and advanced riders are catered for. Bookings can also be made at the Naos Silver Gallery (% ) in Pigadakia. Tours There are frequent excursion boats to Mykonos ( 40), Delos ( 40) and Santorini ( 55); book through travel agents. Naxos Tourist Information Centre (% , emergency ; apollon-hotel@naxos-island. com) Offers day tours of the island by bus ( 20) or caïque (including barbecue, 40). One-day walking tours (per two people 46) are offered three times weekly. Flisvos Sport Club (% ; -sportclub.com; Agios Georgios) You can book a half-day guided mountain-bike tour for 20. Sleeping Naxos has a reputation for persistent domatia hawkers meeting ferries. Recently the authorities have cracked down hard, with talk of heavy fines for badgering of tourists, and in 2007 there was certainly a reduction in the number of hawkers. If you re approached but aren t interested, be firm but polite and keep moving; Hora has plenty of good accommodation options. Booths on the quay have information about hotels and domatia. BUDGET Pension Irene II (% ; -naxos.com; s/d 30/50; ais) Another good choice, Irene II has been refurbished recently. Rooms are bright and comfortable with pleasant balconies. The swimming pool is an irresistible bonus. The same family runs Pension Irene I (% ; -naxos.com), a peaceful, well-kept place in leafy surroundings, with air-con rooms for 25/35 a single/double. Despina s Rooms (% ; fax ; Kastro; s/d 40/50) This cheerful family home is tucked away in the Kastro and has a selection of decent rooms, some with sea views. Rooms on the roof terrace are popular despite their small size. There s a communal kitchen. There are several camping grounds near Hora, and all have good facilities. Minibuses meet the ferries. The grounds are all handy to good beaches and there s an approximate price per person of 8. Camping Maragas (% ) At Agia Anna, south of Hora. Naxos Camping (% ; s) About 1km south of Agios Georgios. The camping ground closest to town. Plaka Camping (% ; fax ) At Plaka, 6km south of town. MIDRANGE Hotel Glaros (% ; Agios Georgios; s incl breakfast 55-60, d incl breakfast 75-80; ai) The attractive décor of Hotel Glaros captures the colours of sea and sky. Service is friendly and thoughtful and the rooms are bright and clean. Although not on the beachfront, the hotel is only a few steps away from the beach. The owners also have attractive apartments nearby ( 65 to 95). Pension Sofi (% ; s/d/tw 65/70/90; a) Great hospitality and kindness are the rule at this family-run place. It s just a short distance inland from the port and is framed by one of the biggest bougainvilleas you re likely to see. Rooms are clean and well equipped and include cooking facilities. CYCLADES

211 406 NAXOS Hora (Naxos) NAXOS Around Naxos 407 CYCLADES Hotel Apollon (% , ; Fontana; s/d incl breakfast 65/85; pai) Stylish décor and tasteful furnishings lend an atmosphere of Naxian good living to the Apollon s spacious, well-furnished rooms. The hotel is in a quiet area a few minutes from the waterfront. Chateau Zevgoli (% ; townhotels.com; Kastro Bourgos; s/d 70/80, ste 120; a) The owner of Hotel Apollon also runs this long-established hotel, right in the heart of Kastro. It has a charming garden setting to go with the traditional Naxian style of rooms and furnishings. ohotel Grotta (% ; grotta.gr; Grotta; s/d incl breakfast 70/85; pai) Located on high ground to the east of the ferry quay, this delightful modern hotel has comfortable and immaculate rooms, great sea views from the front, spacious public areas and a Jacuzzi. It s made even better by the friendly attentive service. Eating Naxian cuisine cherishes such local specialities as kefalotyri (a hard cheese made from sheep s milk), honey, kitron (a liqueur made from the leaves of the citron tree see opposite ), raki (Greek firewater, smoother than tsipouro), ouzo and fine white wine. Maro s (% ; Paparrigopoulou; mains 4-8) Maro s popularity with locals says everything, and there s a sense that good cooking is important here. Dishes such as cod in garlic sauce and roast pork with spaghetti are all the more tasty for it. Meze 2 (% ; Paralia; mains 3-9) The emphasis at this popular mezedhopoleio (restaurant specialising in mezedhes) is on fish, and even the local fishermen eat here. Superb seafood is prepared and served by family members in an atmosphere that is never less than sociable. Irini s (% ; Paralia; mains ) The real deal at this pleasant taverna is the terrific selection of starters ( 4 to 7.50) such as delicious codfish croquettes from which you can construct a delicious meal. opicasso Mexican Bistro (% ; Odos Komiakis; dishes ; h7pm-late) The fajitas at this great Tex-Mex place are world class. Tables fill quickly with aficionados of tacos, nachos, burritos and fajitas. It also does great salads as well as hefty buffalo steaks. There s a beach version, Picasso on the, at Plaka, open mid-june to September. East West Asian Restaurant (% ; dishes ) At this excellent eatery there s always a friendly welcome to go with the Thai, Chinese or Indian favourites, including green chicken coconut curry, made with chunks of tender chicken and vegetables. You ll find this place off Agiou Arseniou. Also recommended (charging about 4 to 9 for a main dish): Taverna Koutouki (Kastro) Famous for its outside tables in a narrow alleyway on the way up to Kastro. Popi s Grill (Paralia) The best place for souvlaki. Near the Zoom newsagent and bookshop is the town s best bakery. Next door is the Zoom Minimarket. The cheapest supermarkets are Atlantic and Vidalis, both a little way out of town on the ring road. Drinking BARS oon the Rocks (% ; Pigadakia) The place to go for character and cocktails. Enjoy Havana cigars or a flavourful sheesha (water pipe) with Cuban-style daiquiris or tequila, or try the karpouzi bowl for two fresh watermelon with a vodka base. It all goes well with sounds that vary between funk, house and electronic. Occasional live performances and karaoke stir the mix. There s also internet and wi-fi available. Lemon (% ; Paralia) A cool cocktail bar and café with relaxing décor, Lemon is one of the best places from which to watch the world go by. Jam (Pigadakia) A huge playlist with rock and standard favourites is the background to this long-established music bar. There s also a great list of cocktails. Entertainment CINEMAS Cine Astra (% ; Andreas Papandreou; adult/ child 8/5) About a five-minute walk from the main square. It shows newly released mainstream films and has a bar. Sessions are from 9pm and 11pm. NIGHTCLUBS Abyss (Grotta; admission 10; h11.30pm-3am May mid- Sep, 11.30pm-late Fri & Sat mid-sep Apr) Previously known as Super Island, this place has had something of a makeover inside and out, but offers much the same sounds with house and modern Greek at the fore. Ocean (% ; Seafront; admission 10; h11.30pm-3am May mid-sep, 11.30pm-late Fri & Sat mid-sep Apr) A sizable space features house and some modern Greek music, and runs special nights with guest DJs. SUNSET CONCERTS Della Rocca-Barozzi Venetian Museum (% ; Kastro; events admission 15-20; h8pm Wed-Sun Apr-Oct) Special evening cultural events are held at the museum, and comprise traditional music and dance concerts, and classical and contemporary music recitals. Prices depend on seat position. Shopping Takis Shop (% ; Mandilara) Among the splendid wines here are such fine names as Lazaridis from Northern Greece, Tslepos from the Peloponnese and Manousakis from Crete all masterful vintages. You can also find Vallindras kitron (see p408 ) and ouzo here. Adjoining is Takis jewellery shop, where fine individual pieces from some of Greece s most famous designers often reflect ancient designs and the imagery of the sea. Antico Veneziano (% ; Kastro) Deep within Kastro is this upmarket antique store and gallery that makes for a fascinating visit. In the streets heading up to the Kastro there are several shops selling fine embroidery and handmade silver jewellery. AROUND NAXOS es Conveniently located just south of the town s waterfront is Agios Georgios, Naxos town beach. It s backed by hotels and tavernas at the town end and can get very crowded, but it runs for some way to the south and its shallow waters mean the beach is safe for youngsters. The next beach south of Agios Georgios is Agios Prokopios, in a sheltered bay to the south of the headland of Cape Mougkri. It merges with Agia Anna, a stretch of shining white sand, quite narrow but long enough to feel uncrowded towards its southern end. Development is fairly solid at Prokopios and the northern end of Agia Anna. Sandy beaches continue down as far as Pyrgaki and include Plaka, Kastraki and Alyko. One of the best of the southern beaches is Mikri Vigla its name translates as little lookout, a watching place for pirates, and reference to the rocky headland, all golden granite slabs and boulders, between superb beaches. The settlement here is a little scattered and is punctuated by half-finished buildings in places, but there s a sense of escapism and open space. There are hotels, domatia and tavernas near most beaches. An excellent, out of the way option is Oasis Studios (% ; s/d 60/75; pais) at Mikri Vigla. It is close to the beach and has lovely big rooms with kitchens. The owner and staff are friendly and helpful, and there s an outside terrace with a swimming pool and bar. The owner is a fount of local information and can help arrange horse riding, windsurfing and kiteboarding on the nearby beaches. The beachside Taverna Liofago (% , ; dishes ) has a dreamy beach location. It has been in business for decades and offers a terrific variety of dishes with special Naxian flavour. The keftedhakia (meatballs) are a delicious speciality. Tragaea Τραγαία The Tragaea region is a vast plain of olive groves and unspoilt villages, couched beneath the central mountains. Filoti, on the slopes of Mt Zeus, or Zas (1004m), is the region s largest village. It has an ATM booth, accessed with card, just down from the main bus stop. On the outskirts of the village (coming from Hora), an asphalt road leads off right to the isolated hamlets of Damarionas and Damalas. From Filoti, you can also reach the Cave of Zeus (Zas), a large natural cavern at the foot of a cliff on the slopes of Mt Zeus. There s a junction signposted Aria Spring and Zas Cave, about 800m south of Filoti. If travelling by bus, ask to be dropped off here. The side road ends in 1.2km. From the road-end parking, follow a walled path past the Aria Spring, a fountain and picnic area, and continue uphill to reach the cave. The path leads on from here to the summit of Zas. It s quite a stiff hike of about 3km. A good way to return to Filoti, taking another 4km, is to follow the path that leads north from the summit. This is not a mere stroll, so be fit and come equipped with good footwear, water and sunscreen. HALKI XΑΛΚΕΙΟ One of Naxos finest experiences is a visit to the historic village of Halki, which lies at the CYCLADES

212 408 NAXOS Around Naxos NAXOS Around Naxos 409 CYCLADES ART OF THE AEGEAN: L OLIVIER, NAXOS Des Hannigan The first time I walked into L Olivier (% ; a ceramics gallery and shop in the little village of Halki on Naxos, it was late evening, early summer. The velvety dusk of the Tragaea, the mountain basin of Naxos, had settled like a veil on Halki s little village square. Young owls hooted from marble ledges on the façades of old Naxian mansions. The air was sweet with the scent of nearby olive groves and meadows. Inside L Olivier it was as if the sunset glow had lingered. Even the artificial lighting was subtly deployed. Everywhere I looked were pieces of stoneware ceramics and jewellery that took my breath away. Each piece of work seemed unique. Yet all reflected the ancient Mediterranean themes of fish and olive that are at the heart of the work of Naxian potter Katharina Bolesch and her partner, artist and craftsman Alexander Reichardt. Three-dimensional ceramic olives framed the edges of shining plates or tumbled down the side of elegant jugs and bowls. Grapes too, hung in little ceramic bunches. Painted shoals of fish darted across platters and swam around bowls and dishes. Ceramic and silver fish jewellery extended the theme. Those first impressions have never faded. Each time I walk into L Olivier now, the world lights up. Katharina Bolesch was partly brought up on Naxos and is rooted in the island s landscape and culture. Her major inspiration is the olive and its symbolism. Her work has been exhibited in major European galleries and in Athens Goulandris Natural History Museum and the Academy of Athens and in New York. Her work will also feature as an official exhibit in Beijing during the 2008 Olympics. Reichardt is entirely of the Mediterranean. His life among islands and his long experience as a diver inspire his painted fish motifs, his ceramic and silver fish jewellery and his work in wood and marble. L Olivier has gathered many admirers worldwide. The president of the Goulandris Natural History Museum and a past European Woman of the Year, Mrs Niki Goulandris, is a longstanding patron. She speaks enthusiastically of the work of Bolesch and Reichardt and places it within the world of classical Greek and Cycladic art while recognising its modern context. Their work represents boldness and commitment to tradition, she says. Their motifs are emphatically the symbols of the Greek land and sea. In spite of such a high profile and a developing international reputation, the work of Bolesch and Reichardt remains entirely accessible and affordable. L Olivier is a cornucopia of beautiful yet functional work that includes tiny ceramic fish and silver jewellery, simple tiles and dishes, large jugs and bowls of luminous beauty, fine artefacts in olive wood, and olive products such as oil and soap. In 2006 Bolesch and Reichardt opened a separate gallery and workshop just around the corner from their shop. Here they stage exhibitions by accomplished artists in a building that has been designed with great style and that fits perfectly amid Halki s traditional Naxian façades and the serene beauty of the Tragaea. heart of the Tragaea, about 20 minutes drive from Naxos town. Halki is a vivid reflection of historic Naxos and is full of the handsome façades of old villas and tower houses, legacy of a rich past as the one-time centre of Naxian commerce. The main road skirts Halki. There is some roadside parking but you may find more at the schoolyard at the north end of the village and on a piece of rough ground just beyond the school. Lanes lead off the main road to the beautiful little square at the heart of the village. Since the late 19th century Halki has had strong connections with the production of kitron, a delicious liqueur. The citron (Citrus medica) was introduced to the Mediterranean area in about 300 BC and thrived on Naxos for centuries. The fruit is barely edible in its raw state, but its rind tastes delicious when preserved in syrup as a ghlika kutalyu (spoon sweet). Kitroraki, a raki, can be distilled from grape skins and citron leaves, and by the late 19th century the preserved fruit and a sweet version of kitroraki, known as kitron, were being exported in large amounts from Naxos. The Vallindras Distillery (% ; h10am-11pm Jul-Aug, 10am-6pm May-Jun & Sep-Oct) in Halki s main square, still distils kitron the old-fashioned way. There are free tours of the old distillery s atmospheric rooms, which still contain ancient jars and copper stills. Kitron tastings round off the trip and a selection of the distillery s products are on sale. To arrange a tour during the period November to April you need to phone % or % Another Halki treat is the ceramics shop L Olivier and its nearby gallery (see boxed text, opposite ), and the fascinating shop Era (% ; eraproducts@mail.gr), where delicious marmalade, jam and spoon desserts are made and sold. There are sleeping possibilities in Halki, but at present it s rather informal. Your best bet is to ask locally. Filoti has some decent, cheap rooms, but you re really best off asking at the village tavernas by the main bus stop. In a classic location in the heart of Halki s central square, Yianni s Taverna (% ; dishes ) is well known for its good local meat dishes and delicious fresh salads with myzithra (sheep s-milk cheese). The Citron Café (% ) is next to the Vallindras Distillery and is a charming place that has retained the traditional style of old Halki. An alternative scenic route from Hora to Halki is along the road that passes Ano Potamia. It s here that you ll find Taverna Pigi (% ; mains ), known for excellent local cooking, enjoyed with the serene music of the gurgling spring that the taverna is named after. Panagia Drosiani Παναγία Δροσιανή The Panagia Drosiani (h10am-7pm May mid-oct) just below Moni, 2.5km north of Halki, is one of the oldest and most revered churches in Greece. It has a warren of cavelike chapels, and several of the frescoes date back to the 7th century. Donations are appreciated. Sangri Σαγκρί The handsome towerlike building of Bazeos Castle (% ; h10am-5pm & 6-9pm) stands prominently in the landscape about 2km east of the village of Sangri. The castle was built in its original form as the Monastery of Timios Stavros (True Cross) during the 17th century, but monks abandoned the site in the early 19th century. It was later bought by the Bazeos family, whose modern descendants have refurbished the building and its fascinating latemedieval rooms with great skill and imagination. The castle now functions as a cultural centre and stages art exhibitions and the annual Naxos Festival during July and August, when concerts, plays and literary readings are held. The price of admission to these varies. About 1.5km south of Sangri is the impressive Temple to Demeter (Dimitra s Temple; % ; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun). The ruins and reconstructions are not large, but they are historically fascinating, and the hilltop location is impressive. There is a site museum with some fine reconstructions of temple features. Signs point the way from Sangri. Apiranthos Απείρανθος Apiranthos is an atmospheric mountain village of unadorned stone houses, marblepaved streets and alleyways that scramble up the slopes of Mt Fanari. Its inhabitants are descendants of refugees who fled Crete to escape Turkish repression; they retain a strong individuality and a rich dialect, and the village has always been noted for its spirited politics and populism. The village has an impressive trio of museums. On the main road, to the right of the start of the village s main street, is the museum of natural history (admission 3; h8.30am-2pm Tue-Sun). The geology museum (admission 3; h8.30am-2pm Tue-Sun) and the archaeology museum (admission free; h8.30am-2pm Tue-Sun) are part-way along the main street. The latter has a marvellous collection of small Cycladian artefacts. The museums are notionally open from 7pm to 10pm in summer, but all the opening times stated here are flexible, in keeping with an admirable local spirit of independence. Just before the main square, which is dominated by a huge plane tree, is Stoy Lefteris (% ; dishes 8-15), with reliable local dishes in a peaceful terrace garden overlooking the valley. There is parking at the entrance to Apiranthos, on the main Hora Apollonas road. Moutsouna Μουτσούνα The road from Apiranthos to Moutsouna descends in an exhilarating series of S-bends through spectacular mountain scenery. Formerly a busy port that shipped out the emery mined in the region, Moutsouna is now a quiet place, although there is some development. Seven kilometres south of the village is a good beach at Psili Ammos. CYCLADES

213 410 LITTLE CYCLADES Getting There & Away Book accommodation online at LITTLE CYCLADES Iraklia 411 CYCLADES There are a few pensions and tavernas, mainly in Moutsouna, but some are scattered along the coast road. Apollonas Απόλλωνας Tavernas line the waterfront adjoining a reasonable beach at Apollonas, on the north coast, but the main attraction here is a giant 7th-century BC kouros, which lies in an ancient quarry in the hillside above the village. It is signposted to the left as you approach Apollonas on the main inland road from Hora. This 10.5m statue may have been abandoned before being finished, because weaknesses in the stone caused cracking. Apollonas has several domatia and tavernas. With your own transport you can return to Hora via the west-coast road, passing through wild and sparsely populated country with awe-inspiring sea views. Several tracks branch down to secluded beaches, such as Abram. LITTLE CYCLADES ΜΙΚΡΕΣ ΚΥΚΛΑΔΕΣ To Paros (27km); Piraeus (226km) Alimia Naxos Agios Georgios Hora (Panagia) Mersini Tsigouri Mesaria Hora (Panagia) Psili Ammos Hora (Panagia) Change down to Cycladic time and head for the chain of small islands between Naxos and Amorgos if you want an authentic island experience. Only four Donousa, Ano Koufonisia, Iraklia and Schinousa have permanent populations. All were densely populated in antiquity, as shown by the large number of ancient graves found on the islands. During the Middle Ages, only wild goats and even wilder pirates inhabited the islands. Post-independence, intrepid souls from Naxos and Amorgos recolonised. Now, the islands welcome growing numbers of independent-minded tourists. Donousa is the northernmost of the group and the furthest from Naxos. The others are clustered near the southeast coast of Naxos. Each has a public telephone and post agency and there are ATMs on all islands but Iraklia, although you should bring a decent amount of ready cash with you. Getting There & Away There are daily connections to and from Naxos to the Little Cyclades but the service can be disrupted when sea conditions are poor; make sure you have plenty of time before committing yourself these islands are not meant for last-minute visits or for onenight tick lists. Until about mid-2009, four times a week in summer and twice weekly in winter, Blue Star car ferries run from Piraeus via Naxos to all of the Little Cyclades islands and on to Amorgos and Astypalea. There s a standard price of for one passenger to each of the Little Cyclades islands. The sturdy little ferry Express Skopelitis (% /519; Katapola, Amorgos) provides a service (daily from mid-june to September, but on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday for the rest of the year, except January) between Naxos and Amorgos via all of LITTLE CYCLADES 0 4 km 0 2 miles Cave of the Sacred Icon of Agios Giannis Venetiko Livadi Iraklia Argilos K o u f Klidoura a Loutro Kato Koufonisia Aligaria Livadi Aspronisi Fidoussa o n Schinousa i s Almyros i Ano Koufonisia Pori Fano Harakopou Finikas Excursion Boat Glaronissia Keros Kato Antikeri Ano Antikeri To Amorgos (20km); Donousa (45km) the smaller islands. It s a defining Cycladic experience. Bad weather can blow the schedule. Most seating is open deck, so when it s windy, brace yourself for some real rocking and rolling. In rough weather you ll know what s coming when the crew starts dishing out the see-through sick bags. If you re on deck, work out exactly which side of the boat is protected from wind and sea on each section between islands and stay there, or that bracing sea air may become a bracing Aegean Sea deluge. Regardless of sea conditions, locals, the crew and this writer head straight below for the comfy saloon and bar where they become engulfed in cigarette smoke and cheerful chatter. The choice is yours In high season the Skopelitis leaves Naxos at 3pm each day and calls at Iraklia ( 8, 4½ hours), Schinousa ( 7.50, four hours), Koufonisia ( 7, 3½ hours), Donousa ( 6.50, one hour and 20 minutes) and Amorgos ( 10.50, six hours) where it docks overnight at Katapola. There is also one weekly ferry from Donousa to Syros ( 11, nine hours) and four weekly ferries to Paros ( 12.50, two to four hours). A useful weekly link from Donousa to Astypalea ( 16, two hours 20 minutes) and the other Dodecanese islands is the rather lumbering MV Dimitroula (% ) you hear it before you see it. It calls at Donousa on its outward trip from Piraeus to Rhodes via Paros and Naxos on Tuesday, and calls in again on its return trip on Friday. Four weekly ferries go from Schinousa to Paros ( 10, 2½ hours). Guaranteed until about mid-2009, the big Blue Star (% ; car ferry, Blue Star Naxos, will leave Piraeus for Paros, Naxos, all the Little Cyclades, and on to Amorgos, and Astypalea at 5.30pm on Monday and Wednesday all year and additionally on Saturdays from June 10 to September 20. The vessel will reverse the process on Tuesday and Thursday all year and additionally on Sunday from 10 June to 20 September. A few other large, slow ferries stop at the islands during high season ghost ships often in the dead of night. IRAKLIA ΗΡΑΚΛΕΙΑ pop 115 Iraklia (ir-a-klee-a) dozes in the Aegean sun and is one of the finest switch-off options anywhere in the world. Dump the party gear and spurn the nightlife, the sightseeing and the dreary souvenirs. Instead, brace yourself for a serene and quiet life and Iraklia will not disappoint. Only in July and August will you have to share the idyll with like-minded others. Iraklia measures only 19 sq km in area. The port and main village is Agios Georgios. It has an attractive covelike harbour, complete with a sandy beach. Turn right at the end of the ferry quay, and then go up left for a wellsupplied general store, Perigiali Supermarket. Further uphill is a smaller store and kafeneio (coffee house) called Melissa s, which is also the ferry ticket office, postal agency and hub of island gossip. There are card phones outside Perigiali Supermarket and Melissa s. There is no ATM, but Perigiali Supermarket will cash cheques with card back-up. The island s website is A surfaced road leads off to the left of the ferry quay, and after about 1km you ll reach Livadi, the island s best beach. A steep 2.5km further on is Hora (Panagia). Where the road forks at the village entrance, keep to the right for the main street. The island s major sight is the Cave of the Sacred Icon of Agios Giannis. The icon is said to have been discovered in the cave by a shepherd at the end of the 19th century, and is now kept in the little church in Hora village. A yearly festival celebrating the icon is held in Hora on the last weekend of August. The cave is above the sea on the island s northern side, and can be reached along a footpath from Hora in about three hours return. Coming uphill from the entrance to the village, the path starts just beyond the church at a signpost on the right. The path is very rocky and steep in places; boots or walking shoes are essential and you should take plenty of water. Beyond the cave the path leads to the beach at Alimia, which is also served by boat from Agios Georgios in summer. During July and August, the Anemos ferries people to island beaches and also runs day trips (return 10) to nearby Schinousa. Enquire at Perigiali Supermarket. Sleeping & Eating Domatia and tavernas are concentrated in and around Agios Georgios, although a few open on the beach at Livadi in summer. Domatia owners meet the boats, but in high season it s advisable to book. CYCLADES

214 412 LITTLE CYCLADES Schinousa Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at LITTLE CYCLADES Koufonisia 413 CYCLADES oanna s Place (% ; s/d 35/67; a) Located on high ground above the port, these lovely, airy rooms have stylish furnishings and the front balconies have sweeping views. There s a friendly and helpful welcome that reflects Iraklia s overall style. Alexandra (% ; fax ; d 45) Also on the hill above the port are these clean, unfussy rooms with pleasant patios. Other options in the main village: Melissa (% ; fax ; d 35) Has basic rooms. Anthi & Angelo s (% ; d 45) Has reasonable rooms, but is open in high season only. There are only a few tavernas in Agios Georgios. All serve fresh fish dishes and other Greek standards. Maïstrali (% ; dishes ) has a pleasant terrace and also has rooms and fairly creaky internet access. Perigiali (% ; dishes 4-7), a popular place, has a large marble table encircling an old pine tree. In Hora, Taverna to Steki (% ; dishes ) is a classic village eatery and is well known for its locally sourced ingredients and traditional food. SCHINOUSA ΣΧΙΝΟΥΣΑ pop 206 Schinousa (skih-noo-sah) lies a mere 2km across the sea from Iraklia and is similar in nature slow-paced, friendly and likeable. It has a number of beaches, although not all are attractive, and down-to-earth Hora (Panagia) on the breezy crest of the island has sweeping views of the sea. Ferries dock at the fishing harbour of Mersini. Hora is a hot 1km uphill (domatia owners always meet ferries with transport). There s a public telephone in the main square and a couple of general stores sell stamps. Tickets are sold at the port a few minutes before boats arrive. There is also a shop and tourist centre that sells ferry tickets at the entrance to Hora. In 2007 it was announced that Schinousa was to have an ATM installed in the near future. A reasonably useful website is On the way down to Tsigouri beach is a little folk museum that features a reconstructed bread oven. Opening hours go with the flow of island life. Dirt tracks lead from Hora to beaches around the coast. The nearest are Tsigouri and Livadi, both uncrowded outside August. Haul a little further to decent beaches at Almyros and Aligaria. With the exception of Tsigouri, there are no shops or tavernas at the beaches, so take food and water. Sleeping There are a few rooms down at Mersini, but if you want to see the rest of the island you re much better off staying in Hora. Anna Domatia (% ; Hora; s/d 25/35) Just behind the main street on the west side of the village, these unfussy rooms are clean and comfortable and there s a friendly welcome. Iliovasilema (% ; iliovasilema@schinousa. gr; Hora; s/d 40/55) Ideally located on the western outskirts of the village, looking south over the island, this bright, clean place has goodsized rooms and most of the balconies have fine views. Grispos Tsigouri Villas (% ; fax ; Hora; s/d/tr incl buffet breakfast 65/80/95, apt 150; a) About 250m down the dusty track from Hora and located right on the edge of Tsigouri beach, these rooms are a good size and have bright décor and surroundings. There are also apartments and other rooms nearby. Eating Grispos (dishes ) This beachside restaurant at Tsigouri is part of the Grispos accommodation complex and offers decent island standards. Loza (% ; dishes ) Right on the main street of Hora, and a local rendezvous point, Loza offers breakfasts for 7.50 as well as salads and pizzas. It s also a bakery and produces delicious pastries, including baklava and walnut pie. Margarita (% ; dishes 5-12) The terrace at this charming place has dreamy views of the sea to go with the modern Greek cuisine, which includes pricier seafood options. It s all creatively prepared and backed by a good wine list. A great choice is the mixed plate. Margarita s is midway along the village street, down an alleyway. KOUFONISIA ΚΟΥΦΟΝΗΣΙΑ pop 366 The islands of Ano Koufonisia and Kato Koufinisia face each other across blue waters. It s Ano Koufonisia that s populated. Its excellent beaches make it one of the most visited of the Little Cyclades islands, and modernisation has taken hold. New hotels and studios are springing up, a marina with capacity for 50 yachts is due to be completed in 2008, and a new sewage treatment plant was under construction in Koufinisia s substantial fishing fleet still sustains a thriving local community outside the fleeting summer season. A caïque ride away, Kato Koufonisi has some beautiful beaches and a lovely church. Archaeological digs on Keros, the rocky, bull-backed mountain of an island that looms over Koufonisia to the south, have uncovered over 100 Early Cycladic figurines, including the famous harpist and flautist now on display in Athens National Archaeological Museum ( p120 ). Orientation & Information Koufonisia s only settlement spreads out behind the ferry quay. On the west side of the quay is the planned yacht marina and on its east side is a wide harbour filled with moored fishing boats. A large town beach of flat, hard sand gives a great sense of space to the waterfront. Its inner edge is used as a road and everyone uses it as a football pitch. The older part of town, the hora, sprawls along a low hill above the harbour and is one long main street. There are a couple of supermarkets along the road that leads inland from the beach to link with the main street, and there s a ticket agency halfway along the main street. The post office is along the first road leading sharply left as you reach the beach and the road leading inland. There is an ATM alongside. Sights BEACHES An easy walk along the sandy coast road to the east of the port leads in a couple of kilometres to Finikas, Harakopou and Fano beaches. All tend to become swamped with grilling bodies in July and August and nudity becomes more overt the further you go. Beyond Fano a path leads to several rocky swimming places, then continues to the great bay at Pori, where a long crescent of sand slides effortlessly into the ultimate Greek-island dream sea. Pori can also be reached by an inland road from Hora. Tours Koufonisia Tours (% ; based at Villa Ostria hotel (see Sleeping, below ), organises caïque trips to Keros, Kato Koufonisi and to other islands of the Little Cyclades. Bike hire is also available. Sleeping Wild camping is not permitted on Koufonisia. There is a good selection of domatia and hotels, and Koufonisia Tours (% ; organises accommodation on the island. Koufonisia Camping (% ) This camping ground has been behind the tree-lined beach at Harakopou to the east of Hora for many years. At the time of writing it was reported that the ground would not be opening in We advise checking ahead for 2008 and Lefteris Rooms (% ; d/tr 40/45) Right behind the town beach and above Lefteris restaurant are these simple but colourful rooms, with the ones at the back being the most peaceful. Anna s Rooms (% , ; s/d/tr/q 50/60/70/80; a) In a quiet location at Loutro on the west side of the port, these big, bright rooms are a great choice and the welcome is charming. They overlook the old harbour and are set amid colourful gardens. Each room has tea- and coffee-making facilities. Ermis (% ; fax ; s/d 55/70) Behind the post office in a quiet location are these spacious rooms with attractive décor and big generous balconies at the front. Villa Ostria (% ; s/d incl breakfast 60/70) A stylish, small hotel, Villa Ostria stands on the high ground above the beach and has a charming garden area. Rooms are smart and comfortable and have fridges. Eating Melissa (% ; mains ) Easily identified by the front half of a little sailing boat protruding from its wall, and by its multicoloured tables and chairs, Melissa prepares excellent fish dishes. Meat eaters are catered for also and vegetarians can combine tasty eggplant and onions with briam (mixed vegetables). Lefteris (% ; dishes ) The longestablished Lefteris dishes up reasonably priced Greek standards to huge numbers of visitors in high summer. Its vast terrace looks out over the town beach and it s open for breakfast and lunch also. CYCLADES

215 414 LITTLE CYCLADES Donousa Book accommodation online at AMORGOS Katapola 415 CYCLADES Capetan Nikolas (% ; dishes ) Deservedly famous, especially for its seafood, this cheerful, family-run restaurant overlooks the little harbour at Loutro. Locally caught fish, such as red mullet and sea bream, are a speciality and are priced by the kilo for your selection, you browse in the kitchen. Drinking Koufonisia caters to a fairly sophisticated music bar set and has a number of venues. Scholeio (% ; h6pm-3.30am) A great little island bar and creperie that goes well with the island s laid-back ambience. Scholeio offers cocktails and plays jazz, blues and rock among other choice sounds. It s right at the western end of the village s main street above Loutro. Sorokos (% ; h4pm-3am) Drinks and snacks and hot sounds that range from early-hours lounge music to harder vibes at night make this a popular hang-out beyond the town beach. DONOUSA ΔΟΝΟΥΣΑ pop 110 Cancel plans: Donousa is where you stop bothering about which day it might be. In late July and August the island can be swamped by holidaymaking Greeks and sun-seeking visitors, but out of season be prepared to linger and be rewarded for it. Agios Stavros is Donousa s main settlement and port, a cluster of functional buildings round a handsome church, overlooking a small bay. Little has changed here over the years, but water shortage on an island that was once always well supplied has seen recent pipe-laying to houses from a new storage tank for imported water. The town also has a good beach, which also serves as a thoroughfare for infrequent vehicles and foot traffic to a clutch of homes, rental rooms and a taverna across the bay. Roussos Travel (% ) on the waterfront is the ticket agency for the local ferry Express Skopelitis. Sigalis Travel (% , ) in the To Iliovasilema restaurant complex (see Sleeping & Eating, right ) sells tickets for Blue Star ferries. There is an ATM outside Roussos Travel (it s sometimes hidden behind a blue shutter for protection from blown sand, so don t miss it). But be sure to bring sufficient cash in high season. There is a public telephone up a steep hill above the waterfront; it s hidden behind a tree. You can get telecards at the souvenir shop just up from the quay-end of the beach. There is a medical centre (% ) and postal agency just below the church. Kendros, situated 1.25km to the southeast of Agios Stavros, along a rather ugly bulldozed track, is a sandy and secluded beach with a seasonal taverna. Livadi, a dusty 1km hike further east, sees even fewer visitors. Both Kendros and Livadi are popular with naturists and navel-/horizon-gazing dreamers. Bulldozed, unsurfaced roads have marred Donousa in places, but there are still delightful paths and tracks that lead into the hills to timeless little hamlets such as Mersini. Sleeping & Eating Most rooms on the island are fairly basic but are well kept, clean and in good locations. You should book ahead for stays in July and August, and even early September. Prasinos Studios (% ; d 35-50, apt 70) On the high ground on the far side of the beach is this pleasant complex with a mix of well-kept rooms. To Iliovasilema (% ; d/tr/studios 43/48/55; i) Just below Prasinos Studios and overlooking the beach, some of these reasonable rooms have kitchens. There s a popular restaurant with a fine terrace and a good selection of food (dishes 3.50 to 20). New studios and apartments are planned for DONOUSA To Mykonos (75km); Syros (105km) To Naxos (55km); Piraeus (250km) To Naxos (45km); Paros (75km) Agios Stavros Kendros Donousa Mersini Haravgi Livadi 0 2 km 0 1 mile Kalotaritissa To Astypalea (116km); Rhodes (280km) Capetan Giorgis (% ; mains ) Sturdy traditional food is on the menu at the Capetan s, where the terrace, just above the harbour, has good views across the bay. There are a couple of food shops that have a reasonable selection of goods in July and August. The hub of village life is Kafeneio To Kyma by the quay, where things liven up late into the night in summer. AMORGOS ΑΜΟΡΓΟΣ pop 1873 For many island lovers, Amorgos (ah-morghoss) is the jewel in the Cycladic crown. Lying well to the southeast of the main group, this exquisite island rises from the sea in a long dragon s back of craggy mountains that is 30km from tip to toe and 800m at its highest point. The island s southeast coast is unrelentingly steep and boasts an extraordinary monastery embedded in a huge cliff. The northern half of the opposite coast is equally spectacular, but relents a little at the narrow inlet where the main port and town of Katapola lies. Amorgos other port town, Aegiali, lies at the island s northern end and is more appealing as a resort. It has a good beach and is encircled by rugged mountains. The enchanting Hora (also known as Amorgos) nestles high in the mountains above Katapola. You need to work quite hard to get to Amorgos, although ferry connections in summer are good and at the time of writing there was talk of a seaplane service starting from the mainland in However, locals are determined to focus on sustainable tourism. There s plenty of scope for beaching, but Amorgos is much more about compelling archaeology, Cycladic life and the outdoor world there s great walking, scuba diving, and a burgeoning rock climbing scene, although currently the latter is for the very experienced rather than for the passing thrillseeker. Getting There & Away Until about mid-2009, four times a week in summer, twice a week in winter, Blue Star car ferries run a service from Piraeus via Naxos and the Little Cyclades to Amorgos ( 27.50, 9¼ hours). Arrival is in the early hours. Blue Star continues from Amorgos to Astypalea ( 15.50, 1½ hours) and Kos ( 22.50, 3¼ hours). One Blue Star ferry runs on Sunday from Amorgos to Rhodes ( 25.50, 6½ hours). There are several boats offering weekly services to Paros ( 15, three hours) and Syros ( 19, 4½hours). The small ferry Express Skopelitis runs a circular route between Naxos and Amorgos and to the other islands in the Little Cyclades (see p410 ). Most ferries stop at both Katapola and Aegiali, but well before your date of leaving be sure to check which town is the departure port for that day. FAST BOAT & CATAMARAN In July and August Hellenic Seaways runs a fast catamaran six days a week, except Wednesday, from Piraeus to Amorgos ( 53, five hours) and on from Amorgos to Santorini ( 18.50, 1¼ hours), Folegandros ( 25, 2¼ hours), Sifnos ( 32, three hours) and Syros ( 28.50, 2½ hours). Getting Around Regular buses go from Katapola to Hora ( 1.20, 15 minutes), Moni Hozoviotissis ( 1.40, 15 minutes) and Agia Anna ( 1.30, 20 minutes), and less-frequent services go to Aegiali ( 2.10, 30 minutes). However, there are fewer services on weekends. There are also buses from Aegiali to the picturesque village of Langada. Schedules are posted on bus windscreens. Cars and motorcycles are available for rent from the travel agencies N Synodinos (% ; synodinos@nax.forthnet.gr; Katapola; hyear-round) and Aegialis Tours (% ; fax ; Aegiali). KATAPOLA ΚΑΤΑΠΟΛΑ The island s principal port, Katapola, straggles round the curving shoreline of a dramatic bay in the most verdant part of the island. The fascinating and extensive remains of the ancient city of Minoa, as well as a Mycenaean cemetery, lie above the port and can be reached by a steep, surfaced road. Amorgos has also yielded many Cycladic finds; the largest figurine in the National Archaeological Museum ( p120 ) in Athens was found in the vicinity of Katapola. CYCLADES

216 416 AMORGOS Katapola Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at AMORGOS Hora 417 CYCLADES AMORGOS To Paros (68km); Naxos (77km); Syros (92km); Mykonos (96km); Piraeus (251km) To Iraklia (41km); Naxos (89km) A E G E A N S E A Paradisi Gramvousa Vroutsis Kalofana Cape Kalotassi Arkesini Kamari Mouron Katapola Ancient Minoa Hora Orientation & Information Boats dock right on the waterfront. The bus station is to the left along the main waterfront, on the eastern shore of the bay. A bank (with ATM) is midwaterfront and there s an ATM next to N Synodinos. There is a postal agency next to the Hotel Minoa on the central square. The island s police station (% ) is located in Hora. Hotel Minoa (% ; internet access per hr 2.50) N Synodinos (% ; synodinos@nax.forthnet.gr; hyear-round) Sells ferry tickets and offers money exchange and car rental (per day in high season 50). Port police (% ) On the central square. Nikouria Agia Pavlos Amorgos 698m Moni Hozoviotissis Agia Anna Tholaria Aegiali Potamos Langada 0 4 km 0 2 miles 822m To Astypalea (98km) Cape Xodoto Sleeping & Eating Domatia owners usually meet ferries and are among the most restrained and polite in the Cyclades. Katapola Community Camping (% ; camp sites per adult/child/tent 6/4/6) Set back from the eastern end of the bay, this shaded camping ground is a reasonable option. oeleni s Rooms (% ; rooms eleni@hack-box.net; s/d/tr/apt 50/60/70/100) An unbeatable position to the west of the ferry quay makes these unfussy but bright and airy rooms an excellent choice, and the owner is friendly and kind. The rooms rise through several levels and offer unbeatable views. You can even hop down in seconds for a morning swim at an adjoining beach. Diosmarini (% ; diosmarini@yahoo.com; d/tr/apt 50/65/100) On the northern shores of the bay and about 1km from the ferry quay, Diosmarini is a delightful option with lovely big rooms in a handsome and modern Cycladic-style building. There are airy views from most balconies. Pension Sofia (% ; d/apt 55/65; a) The charming, family-run Sofia stands amid gardens and little meadows in a quiet area of town. Rooms are fresh and colourful. Elichryson (% ; 3-7; h8am-10pm) Ideal for breakfast ( 3 to 6), this pleasant café is just back from the main waterfront. Mouragio (% ; dishes ) A local favourite, not least for its expertise with fish dishes and seafood. This traditional taverna is on the main waterfront near the ferry quay. Shellfish are by the kilo but reasonable dishes include delicious fish soup. ovitsentzos (% ; dishes ) Exposed stonework and a varnished wooden floor lend Vitsentzos an authentic old-worlde atmosphere. The waterfront terrace is also a delight and the food is satisfyingly traditional with an infusion of modern influences. Seafood is by the kilogram. Kasbah (% ) is a cheerful café next door to Vitsentzos and is run by the same family. Lip-smacking ice cream and delicious homemade cakes are the rule. Drinking Moon Bar (% ) Set the world to rights in great company at this relaxing place on the northern waterfront, where the music ranges from classical through blues, rock and funk into the early hours. Breakfasts are 5. Le Grand Bleu (% ) Still flying on the name of the iconic film The Big Blue, this popular bar plays rock, reggae and modern Greek music on the northern waterfront. HORA ΧΩΡΑ The old capital of Hora sparkles like a snowdrift across its rocky ridge. It stands 400m above sea level and is capped by a 13thcentury kastro atop a prominent rock pinnacle. Old windmills stand like sentinels on surrounding cliffs. However, there s a distinct veneer of sophistication, not least in the handful of trendy bars and shops that enhance Hora s appeal without eroding its timelessness. The bus stop is on a small square at the edge of town. The post office is on the main square, reached by a pedestrian lane from the bus stop. The police station (% ) is halfway along the main street. Hora s archaeology museum (h9am-1pm & pm Tue-Sun) is on the main pedestrian thoroughfare, near Café Bar Zygós. Sleeping & Eating Hora has a handful of pleasant pensions. Pension Ilias (% ; s/d/tr/apt 40/50/60/75) Tucked away amid a jumble of traditional houses just down from the bus stop is this unpretentious family-run place with decent rooms. View To Big Blue (% / ; s/d 45/60) At the top end of the village is this attractive place in its own little garden. Rooms are very bright and comfy. Café Bar Zygós (% ; snacks 3-10; h8am- 3am) This café lies at the heart of Hora s main street. It s a charming place inside and out, and has a rooftop terrace. It offers breakfast, sandwiches, baguettes, salads and cold plates as well as coffee, delicious cakes, candied fruit and ice cream all to Greek music by day, and 80s and 90s rock at night. Keep heading up the winding main street to reach Tsagaradiko (% ; dishes 3-8), a great little mezedhes place with tables on a lovely small square. MONI HOZOVIOTISSIS ΜΟΝΗ ΧΟΖΟΒΙΩΤΙΣΣΗΣ Amorgos is defined by the iconic Moni Hozoviotissis (h8am-1pm & 5-7pm), a dazzling white building embedded in an awesome cliff face high above the sea. It lies on the precipitous east coast below Hora. A few monks still live here and short tours, which usually end with a pleasant chat with one of the monks, take place sporadically, usually when a reasonable number of visitors have gathered at the door of the monastery. The tour is free but donations are appreciated. The monastery contains a miraculous icon that was found in the sea below the cliff. It got there (allegedly unaided) from Asia Minor, Cyprus or Jerusalem depending on which legend you re told. Out of respect, modest dress is essential (long trousers for men, a long skirt or dress and covered shoulders for women). A great round-trip is to catch the bus from Katapola to Hora, stroll the length of Hora s main street and on to an upper car park below a radio tower. Go down to the right of the car park viewpoint, through a gate and then follow a zigzag track with exhilarating views to reach the road. Turn left here to reach a junction, the left branch of which leads in 500m to the monastery. You can then catch the bus back to Katopola from the junction, or walk down to Agia Anna beach, which is 1.5km downhill, and catch the bus from the car park there after a dip. AEGIALI ΑΙΓΙΑΛΗ Aegiali is Amorgos second port and has more of a resort style, not least because of the fine sweep of sand that lines the inner edge of the bay on which the village stands. Steep slopes and impressive crags lie above the main village. CYCLADES

217 418 IOS Getting There & Away Book accommodation online at IOS Hora, Ormos & Mylopotas 419 CYCLADES Efficient Amorgos Travel (% ; above the central supermarket on the waterfront, can help with a host of travel needs including ferry tickets, accommodation and island tours. Check it out for diving and walking possibilities also. Longestablished Aegialis Tours (% ; fax ; sells ferry tickets, and can organise accommodation, tours and vehicle hire. There s a postal agency about 100m uphill from Aegialis Tours. Tours Ask at travel agencies about a daily bus outing ( 25) around the island that leaves at 9.30am and returns at 4.30pm, with stops at Agia Pavlos, Moni Hozoviotissis and Hora. Boat trips around the island ( 30) and to the little Cyclades ( 40) can also arranged. Sleeping As is the case in Katapola, domatia owners meet the ferries. Aegiali Camping (% ; camp sites per adult/child/tent 5.50/2.60/3.50) Good facilities and a pleasantly shaded location on the road behind the beach makes this camping ground an attractive proposition. Pension Askas (% ; d/tr 60/70; a) Next to Aegiali Camping is this decent pension in a garden setting, with clean, attractive rooms. Lakki Village (% ; s/d/tr incl breakfast 65/75/80, 2-/3-/4-person studios/apt incl breakfast 85/100/115; ais) This attractive, well-kept complex ambles inland from the beachfront through lovely gardens and water features. Rooms are in Cycladic-style buildings and have colourful traditional furnishings. Eating Restaurant Lakki (% ; dishes ) A beach and garden setting makes the restaurant of Lakki Village a relaxing place to enjoy wellprepared Greek dishes. To Koralli (% ; dishes 4-7) Enviable views enhance the good cuisine at this cheerful restaurant, which offers delicious fish and mezes platters. It s reached by a flight of steps at the eastern end of the waterfront. oto Limani (% ; dishes 4-9) Delicious traditional fare prepared with home-grown produce makes Limani a popular place. Local dishes include baked goat and, for fish lovers, delicious fish soup, while vegetarians can enjoy treats such as black-eye beans with spinach. The downstairs walls exhibit works by local artists, the big canvases by Wolfgang Mann being particularly good. There s a hugely popular Thai food night every Friday except during August. The owners also have beautiful rooms, studios and apartments high above the bay in the village of Potamos, starting at 55 for a double. AROUND AMORGOS On the east coast, south of Moni Hozoviotissis, is Agia Anna, the nearest beach to both Katapola and Hora. Don t get excited; the car park is bigger than any of the little pebbly beaches strung out along the rocky shoreline, and all the beaches fill up quickly. Next to the car park on the cliff-top there s a small cantina selling food and drinks. The lovely villages of Langada and Tholaria nestle amid the craggy slopes above Aegiali. Their locations are magnificent and views from both are worth the trip alone. The two are linked to each other, and to Aegiali, by a signposted circular path that takes about four hours (Greek time). Regular buses run between the villages and Aegiali. IOS ΙΟΣ pop 1838 Ios is slowly shedding its image as the party capital of the Cyclades. It has always been as traditional in landscape and cultural terms as any other island in the group, and Greek life goes on sturdily beyond the wall-to-wall bars and nightclubs of Hora and the beach scene. Families and older holidaymakers are heading for Ios in increasing numbers. There s still hard partying, however, and you need some stamina to survive the late night action in the centre of Hora. Getting There & Away AIR Until suspension of operations in July of 2007, AirSea Lines (% ; ran one seaplane flight a day from Thursday to Monday between Lavrio and Ios. Due to upgrading requirements the company suspended its Aegean schedule in IOS To Naxos (51km); Paros (57km); Mykonos (70km); Syros (102km); Piraeus (205km) To Sifnos (74km); Milos (100km) Koumbara Tsamaria Cape Karatza Gialos Ormos Plakotos 417m Valmas 514m Hora Mylopotas Kolitzani To Santorini (41km); Anafi (65km) Klima Bay Excursion Boat July The schedule was still suspended at the time of writing (September 2007). The company states, however, that it will resume its Aegean service as soon as possible and readers are advised to check the company website. FAST BOAT & CATAMARAN There are daily catamarans to Piraeus ( 49.50, 5½ hours), Santorini ( 15.50, 40 minutes), Naxos ( 20.20, one hour), Paros ( 18.90, 1½ hours), Mykonos ( 26.10, two hours) and Iraklio and Rethymno on Crete ( 35.80, 2½ hours). FERRY There are at least four daily connections with Piraeus ( 30.50, seven hours), Paros ( 12.50, 2½ hours) and Naxos ( 11.50, 1¼ hours). There are daily boats to Santorini ( 8.50, 1¼ hours), five-weekly boats to Sikinos ( 3.80, 30 minutes), Folegandros ( 5.60, 1½ hours) and Anafi ( 8.20, three hours) and four-weekly boats to Syros ( 19.50, 2¾ hours). There are three boats weekly to Milos ( 14.10, 3½ hours) and Mykonos ( 12.70, Ios Agia Theodoti Paleokastro Ruins Cape Ahlades 713m Psathi Moni Kalamou Manganari 0 4 km 0 2 miles Plakes Bay Kalamos Papas Cape Fidias Cape Pountas A E G E A N S E A seven hours), two boats weekly to Kimolos ( 9.40, 2½ hours), Sifnos ( 11.10, five hours), Serifos ( 12.20, six hours) and Kythnos ( 16.20, 8½ hours). One boat goes to Amorgos on Saturday ( 9.70, 2½ hours). Getting Around In summer crowded buses run between Ormos, Hora ( 1.20) and Mylopotas ( 1.20) about every 15 minutes. Private excursion buses go to Manganari ( 8, 10.30am and 12.30am) and Agia Theodoti ( 1.50, in July and August). Caïques travelling from Ormos to Manganari cost 10 per person for a return trip (departing 11am daily). Ormos and Hora both have car and motorcycle rental that can be booked through the Plakiotis Travel Agency ( p420 ) and Acteon Travel ( p420 ). HORA, ORMOS & MYLOPOTAS ΧΩΡΑ, ΟΡΜΟΣ & ΜΥΛΟΠΟΤΑΣ Ios has three population centres, all very close together on the west coast: the port, Ormos; the capital, Hora (also known as CYCLADES

218 420 IOS Hora, Ormos & Mylopotas Book accommodation online at IOS Hora, Ormos & Mylopotas 421 CYCLADES the village ), 2km inland, by road, from the port; and Mylopotas, the beach 2km downhill from Hora. Gialos stretches west of the port. Orientation The bus terminal in Ormos is straight ahead from the ferry quay on Emirou. If you don t mind the heat, it s possible to walk from the port to Hora by heading up left from Emirou, then right up a stepped path after about 100m. It s about 1.2km. In Hora the main landmark is the big cathedral opposite the bus stop, on the other side of the dusty car park and play area. Valeta is the central square. There are public toilets uphill behind the main square. The road straight ahead from the bus stop leads to Mylopotas. Information There s an ATM right by the information kiosks at the ferry quay. In Hora, the National Bank of Greece, behind the church, and the Commercial Bank, nearby, both have ATMs. The post office in Hora is a block behind the town hall side of the main road. Acteon Travel (% ; acteon@otenet.gr) On the square near the quay, and in Hora and Mylopotas. Doubleclick Internet (% ; Hora; per hr 4) A well-equipped place with good connection. Hospital (% ) On the way to Gialos, 250m northwest of the quay; there are several doctors in Hora. Plakiotis Travel Agency (% ; plaktr2@otenet.gr) On the Ormos waterfront. Port police (% ) At the southern end of the Ormos waterfront, just before Ios Camping. Sights Hora is a lovely Cycladic village with a labyrinth of narrow lanes and cubist houses. It s at its most charming during daylight hours when the bars are shut and it recaptures the atmosphere of other island towns. The archaeological museum (admission free; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) is in the town hall by the bus stop. Activities Banana rides ( 10), canoe rental (per hour 8) and mountain-bike rental (per day 10) are all available at Yialos Watersports (% , ; ralfburgstahler@hotmail.com; Gialos ). Hire windsurfing equipment (per hour 15, per half-day 30, lessons free), or take a tube ride ( 14 to 17). Mylopotas Water Sports Center (% ; Mylopotas ) has snorkelling and windsurfing gear, pedal boats (per hour 15) and canoes (per hour/day 8/24) for hire. Windsurfing rental (per hour/day 15/40), waterskiing (per 10/15 minutes 27/30) and banana rides ( 10 to 15) are available. There s also a speedboat taxi. Windsurfing (per hour 15, per day 40) is on offer at Meltemi Water Sports (% , ; Mylopotas) at the beach opposite Far Out Camping. Laser sailboats (per hour/day 30/65) are also available for hire, as are canoes and pedalos. Tube rides cost from 15 to 30. Meltemi runs a similar scene at Manganari and has a water taxi from Mylopotas to other beaches. Sleeping ORMOS The port has several good sleeping options, reasonable eating places, a couple of handy beaches and regular bus connections to Hora and on to other beaches. Ios Camping (% ; fax ; camp sites per person 8; s) Tucked away on the west side of Ormos, this site has good facilities, including a restaurant in high season. Head all the way round the waterfront. Hotel Poseidon (% ; ios.gr; s/d/tr 71/85/102; as) A great choice: this family-run hotel stands high above the port and has terrific views from its front balconies. Rooms are immaculate and well equipped and there s a pleasant swimming pool. GIALOS BEACH Hotel Helena (% ; s/d/tr 50/70/90, apt 120; ai) Set a short way back from the midpoint of the beach is this quiet and well-run place. It has a cool patio, bright, clean rooms and a friendly welcome. To Corali (% ; s/d incl breakfast 55/80; pai) These sparkling rooms are in a good position right opposite the beach and are attached to the restaurant of the same name. There s a colourful garden at the rear and the owners create a happy atmosphere. HORA Francesco s (% ; dm 15, s 35-40, d 45-50; i) Long established and very well run, the famous Francesco s has clean dormitories and rooms and is in an enviable position with great views of the bay. It s away from the centre but is a lively meeting place for the younger international set. The party spirit rules supreme and there s a busy bar and terrace. Skala Hotel (% ; skalahtl@otenet.gr; d/tr 85/100, apt ; ais) If you want to rise above the central hubbub, a short hike uphill from the centre takes you to this well-sited hotel with great views over Hora. Rooms are bright and a good size and have kitchenettes. There s a pool and a Jacuzzi. MYLOPOTAS Purple Pig Stars Camping & Bungalows (% ; Mylopotas ; camp sites per person 9, dm 20, d 44; s) This pleasant camping ground is right at the entrance to the beach and has a relaxing tempo while being close to the action. It s shaded by trees. Far Out Camping And Club (% ; Mylopotas ; camp sites per adult/ child 12/6, no charge for own tent, small/large bungalows 12/20, studio 90; is) There s plenty of action here, backed by wall-to-wall facilities. Meltemi Water Sports (see opposite ) is just across the road, and a diving centre has been established in recent years. There s a bar, restaurant and four swimming pools. The bungalows range from small tent-sized affairs to neat little roundhouses with double and single beds. ohotel Nissos Ios (% ; Mylopotas ; s/d/tr 50/70/85; ai) This excellent place has bright and fresh rooms, and colourful wall murals add a cheerful touch. Each room has tea- and coffee-making facilities. The welcome is friendly and good-natured, and the beach is just across the road. There s an outdoor Jacuzzi. In front of the hotel is the Bamboo Restaurant & Pizzeria ( p422 ). Paradise Rooms (% ; parios11@otenet.gr; Mylopotas ; s/d 55/65; a) The familyrun rooms here are about half way along the beachfront, and the beautiful garden is looked after with love and skill. Breakfast costs from 3 to 4. Paradise Apartments (% ; Mylopotas ; apt ; as) These apartments are located a short distance away from Paradise Rooms, and are run by a member of the same family. They re in a secluded setting and have a lovely pool and big patio. At both Paradise accommodations, guests can get a 50% reduction at Mylopotas Water Sports Center ( opposite ). Eating ORMOS Susannah (% ; dishes ) No-nonsense food, from Greek salads to pasta and pizza, keeps this harbour taverna popular with locals. It s set back from the street in a wide square, by Acteon Travel. GIALOS BEACH To Corali (% ; dishes 5-9) Mouthwatering wood-fired pizzas are list-toppers at this friendly, well-run eatery that s right by the beach and in front of the hotel of the same name. You can sit out at tables on the beach. It does pastas and salads as well, and it s a great spot for coffee, drinks and ice cream. HORA Porky s (% ; snacks ) Fuel up with toasties, salads, crepes and hamburgers at this relentless Ios survivor just off the main square. Old Byron (% ; dishes ; h7pmlate) A little way up the main street from the cathedral is this wine bar and eatery (the previous location of Lord Byron see below ), offering an eclectic menu that includes pasta, mezedhes and even bangers and mash. There s background Greek and contemporary music. opomodoro (% ; dishes ) Opened in recent years, this new Ios favourite spreads over two floors. There s a fabulous roof garden with panoramic views. It s just off the main square above Disco 69, and offers authentic wood-fired pizzas as just part of its excellent Italian and Mediterranean menu. Ali Baba s (% ; dishes 6-10) In the same venue as the restaurant of that name there s another great Ios favourite. This is the place for tasty Thai dishes, including pad thai (thin rice noodles stir-fried with dried shrimp, bean sprouts, tofu and egg) cooked by authentic Thai chefs. The service is very upbeat and there s entertainment. It s on the same street as the Emporiki bank. Lord Byron (% ; dishes 7-14) Near the main square, this long-standing favourite is relaxing and intimate, and the food is a great fusion of Greek and Italian. Dishes range from shrimp cooked in a tomato sauce with CYCLADES

219 422 SANTORINI (THIRA) SANTORINI (THIRA) History 423 CYCLADES feta and ouzo to penne with a wild mushroom and cream sauce and it all comes in generous helpings. There are several gyros stands where you can get a cheap bite. MYLOPOTAS Drakos Taverna (% ; dishes ) Enjoy reasonably priced fish dishes (although some species are by the kilogram) at this popular taverna that overlooks the sea at the southern end of the beach. Whatever s on the dish, you get the feeling that it may well have hopped straight from the water into the kitchen and then onto your plate. Harmony (% ; dishes ) Few places take chill-out to the honed level of this great bar. Hammocks, deckchairs and discerning sounds set the pace and kids are well looked after here. It s just along the northern arm of Mylopotas beach. There s live music too, and Tex-Mex food is the main attraction. Bamboo Restaurant & Pizzeria (% ; dishes ) Run by a member of the same family that operates Hotel Nissos Ios ( p421 ), this pleasant place offers traditional mousakas and tasty pizzas, plus a range of other Greek dishes. Entertainment Nightlife on Ios is a blitz. No-one signs up for an early night in Hora s tiny main square, where it gets so crowded by midnight that you won t be able to fall down, even if you want to. Be young and carefree but (women especially) also be careful. For a marginally quieter life there are some less full-on venues around, including Ios Club, Ali Baba s and Orange Bar. Slammer Bar (% ; Main Sq, Hora) Hammers out house, rock and Latin. Multiple tequila shots, and head-banging in every sense. Superfly (% ; Main Sq, Hora) Plays funky house tunes. Disco 69 (% ; Main Sq, Hora) Offers hard-core drinking and hard-core T-shirts to a background of disco and current hits. Sweet Irish Dream (% ) It s Guinness on tap at this IOS (Ireland Over Seas) hang-out on the right-hand side of the road as you enter Hora. Ios Club (% ) Head here for a cocktail and watch the sun set to classical, Latin and jazz music from a great terrace with sweeping views. It s along the pathway by Sweet Irish Dream. Ali Baba s (% ) Offers a mix of entertainment that includes the latest Hollywood films, mainstream music, and bands playing originals and covers. Orange Bar (% ) A more easy-paced music bar playing rock, indie and Brit-pop just outside the war zone. Other popular late-night bars and clubs on the square: Blue Note (% ) Flames Bar (% ) Red Bull (% ) Scorpion s is a late-night dance-to-trance and progressive venue with laser shows. Aftershock goes for sensation with raunchy dancers and house, trance and Greek hits as well as guest DJs. AROUND IOS Travellers are lured to Ios by its nightlife, but also by its beaches. Vying with Mylopotas as one of the best is Manganari, a long swath of fine white sand on the south coast, reached by bus or by caïque in summer (see Getting Around, p419 ). From Ormos, it s a 10-minute walk past the little church of Agia Irini for Valmas. A 1.3km walk northwest of Ormos, Koumbara is the official clothes-optional beach. Tsamaria, nearby, is nice and sheltered when it s windy elsewhere. Agia Theodoti, Psathi and Kalamos es, all on the northeast coast, are more remote. Psathi is a good windsurfing venue. Moni Kalamou, on the way to Manganari and Kalamos es, stages a huge religious festival in late August and a festival of music and dance in September. SANTORINI (THIRA) ΣΑΝΤΟΡΙΝΗ (ΘΗΡΑ) pop 13,402 Fantastic, fabulous Santorini deserves all the superlatives. Even the most jaded traveller succumbs to the awesome drama of this surreal landscape, relic of what was probably the biggest eruption in recorded history. That you share the experience with hordes of other visitors is inevitable. Embrace it all. The caldera and its vast curtain wall of multicoloured cliffs is truly awesome. If you want to experience the full dramatic impact it s worth arriving by a slower ferry with open decks, rather than by enclosed catamaran or hydrofoil. Santorini is famous for its spectacular sunsets. The village of Oia on the northern tip of the island is a hugely popular sunset viewing site because there is an uninterrupted view of the sun as it finally sinks below the horizon. From farther south down the caldera edge, the last of the setting sun can be obscured by the islands of Nea Kameni and Thirasia. Take your pick, however. You can enjoy most of the sunset from almost anywhere along the rim of the caldera, especially if you want to avoid the sometimes feverish crush at Oia. The main port, Athinios, stands on a cramped shelf of land at the base of Sphinxlike cliffs and is a scene of marvellous chaos that always seems to work itself out when ferries arrive. Buses (and taxis) meet all ferries and then cart passengers through an ever-rising series of S-bends to the capital, SANTORINI (THIRA) To Sifnos (105km); Serifos (120km); Milos (131km) Potamos To Crete (128km) Cape Riva Agrilla Potamos Thirasia Aspronisi To Ios (41km); Naxos (87km); Paros (105km); Mykonos (128km); Syros (135km); Piraeus (240km); Thessaloniki (627km) Manolas Ammoudi Cape Trypiti Cape Akrotiri To Anafi (56km) Oia Hot Springs Palia Kameni Black Armeni Baxedes Akrotiri Sigalas Winery Finikia Nea Kameni White Red Paradise Imerovigli Firostefani Fira Skala Fira, which fringes the edge of the cliffs like a snowy cornice. History Minor eruptions have been the norm in Greece s earthquake record, but Santorini has bucked the trend and with attitude throughout history. Eruptions here were genuinely earth-shattering, and so wrenching that they changed the shape of the island several times. Dorians, Venetians and Turks occupied Santorini, as they did all other Cycladic islands, but its most influential early inhabitants were Minoans. They came from Crete some time between 2000 and 1600 BC, and the settlement at Akrotiri ( p431 ) dates from the peak years of their great civilisation. The island was circular then and was called Strongili (Round One). In about 1650 BC a colossal volcanic eruption caused the centre of Strongili to sink, leaving a caldera with high cliffs now one of the world s most dramatic sights. Some archaeologists have speculated that this catastrophe destroyed not only Santorini (Thira) Vourvoulos Fira Messaria Monolithos Karterados Vothonas A E G E A N Exo Gonia Mesa Athinios Gonia S E A Pyrgos Megalohori Mt Profitis Kamari Ilias (567m) Kamari Moni Ancient Thira Profiti Ilia Cape Mesa Vouno Emporio Perissa 567m Ancient Akrotiri Vlyhada Pori Cape Evo Mytis Gialos Karterados Perivolos Agios Georgios 0 4 km 0 2 miles Monolithos CYCLADES

220 424 SANTORINI (THIRA) Getting There & Away SANTORINI (THIRA) Fira 425 CYCLADES SANTORINI S UNSETTLING PAST Always unstable, Santorini was part of a series of volcanoes over a million years ago. The volcanoes became dormant, and around 3000 BC the first human settlers arrived to take advantage of the fertile soil. From evidence found at Akrotiri, it appears that they led civilised lives and fashioned a highly sophisticated culture. But the peace and harmony didn t last, and around 1650 BC a chain of earthquakes and eruptions culminated in one of the largest explosions in the history of the planet. Thirty cubic kilometres of magma spewed forth and a column of ash 36km high jetted into the atmosphere. The centre of the island collapsed, producing a caldera that the sea quickly filled. The eruption also generated huge tsunamis that travelled with dangerous force all the way to Crete and Israel; nearby Anafi was engulfed by one such gigantic wave. It s widely held that the catastrophe was responsible for the demise of Crete s Minoan culture, one of the most powerful civilisations in the Aegean at that time. After the Big One, Santorini settled down for a time and was even recolonised. In 236 BC volcanic activity separated Thirasia from the main island. Further changes continued intermittently. In 197 BC the islet now known as Palia Kameni appeared in the caldera, and in AD 726 there was a major eruption that catapulted pumice all the way to Asia Minor. The south coast of Santorini collapsed in 1570, taking the ancient port of Eleusis with it. An eruption in 1707 created Nea Kameni Islet next to Palia Kameni. A major earthquake measuring 7.8 on the Richter scale savaged the island in 1956, killing scores of people and destroying most of the houses in Fira and Oia. The renaissance is remarkable; the resilience and insouciance of locals even more so. For lovers of impermanence, precariousness and drama, Santorini is beyond compare. Akrotiri but the structure, and eventually the essence, of Minoan civilisation. Getting There & Away AIR Olympic Airlines (% ; at the airport, operates five flights daily in high season between Athens and Santorini ( 79, 45 minutes). Aegean Airlines (%airport ; air.com) has five flights daily between Athens and Santorini ( 56 to 75, 45 minutes), four flights daily to and from Mykonos ( 99, 45 minutes) and two flights daily to and from Thessaloniki ( 118, 45 minutes), via Athens. From Easter to September, Sky Express (% ; has at least four flights a week to Iraklio, Crete ( 74, 30 minutes), four flights a week to Mykonos ( 74, 35 minutes) and daily flights to Rhodes ( 84, 40 minutes). Book online or enquire at travel agencies. From June to September, AirSea Lines (% ; runs one seaplane every day, except Tuesday and Wednesday, between Lavrio and Santorini ( 112, 1¼ hours) via Ios. Until suspension of operations in July of 2007, AirSea Lines (% ; lines.com) ran one seaplane flight a day from Thursday to Monday between Lavrio and Santorini via Ios. Due to upgrading requirements the company suspended its Aegean schedule in July The schedule was still suspended at the time of writing (September 2007). The company states, however, that it will resume its Aegean service as soon as possible and readers are advised to check the company website. FAST BOAT & CATAMARAN Daily services run to and from Ios ( 16, 30 minutes), Naxos ( 29, 1½ hours), Paros ( 25.30, 2¼ hours), Mykonos ( 28, three to four hours), Folegandros ( 14, 45 minutes), Sifnos ( 31, 1¾ hours), Iraklio ( ¾ hours) and Piraeus ( 55.50, 5¼ hours). FERRY There are at least four boats daily to Naxos ( 15.50, three hours), Paros ( 16.50, three to four hours), Ios ( 8.50, 1¼ hours) and Piraeus ( 32.50, nine hours) and two boats a week to Tinos ( 14, five hours), Kythnos ( 19.70, eight hours) and Folegandros ( 6.70, 1½ to 2½ hours). Change at Naxos for Amorgos. Seven boats weekly go to Anafi ( 6.90, one hour), Sifnos ( 12.50, 7¾ hours), Sikinos ( 9.80, 2½ hours), Iraklio ( 15.10, 4½ hours) and Skiathos ( 33.50, 18½ hours). There are two weekly ferries running to Mykonos ( 14, six hours), Milos ( 15.50, four hours), Kimolos ( 16.20, 3½ hours), Syros ( 23, 5¼ hours), Serifos ( 16.20, nine hours) and Thessaloniki ( 41.10, 25 hours). Getting Around TO/FROM THE AIRPORT There are frequent bus connections in summer between Fira s bus station and the airport, located southwest of Monolithos. Enthusiastic hotel and domatia staff meet flights, and some also return guests to the airport. A taxi to the airport costs 12. BUS In summer buses leave Fira every half-hour for Oia ( 1.20), Monolithos ( 1.20), Kamari ( 1.20) and Perissa ( 1.90). There are lessfrequent buses to Exo Gonia ( 1.20), Perivolos ( 1.90) and Vlyhada ( 2). In summer the last regular bus to Fira from Oia leaves at 11.20pm. Buses leave Fira, Kamari and Perissa for the port of Athinios ( 1.60, 30 minutes) 1½ hours before most ferry departures. Buses for Fira meet all ferries, even late at night. It is wise to check port departures well in advance. CABLE CAR & DONKEY A cable car (% ; M Nomikou; hevery 20min 7am-10pm, to 9pm winter) hums smoothly between Fira and the small port below, known as Fira Skala. One-way tickets per adult cost 4, and 2 per child; luggage is 2. You can make a more leisurely upward trip by donkey (tickets cost 4). CAR & MOTORCYCLE A car is the best way to explore the island during high season, when buses are intolerably overcrowded and you re lucky to get on one at all. Be very patient and cautious when driving the narrow roads, especially in Fira, can be a nightmare. Note that Oia has no petrol station, the nearest being just outside Fira. Two very good local rental outfits are Damigos Rent a Car (% , ) and for scooters, Zerbakis (% , ). TA X I If you re after a taxi (% /2555), there s a stand in the main square. A taxi from the port of Athinios to Fira costs 10, and a trip from Fira to Oia is also 10. Both cost 12 if you call ahead by telephone. If you miss the last bus from Oia to Fira, three or four people can bargain for a shared taxi for about 12. FIRA ΦΗΡΑ pop 2113 A multitude of fellow admirers cannot diminish the impact of Fira s stupendous landscape. Views from the edge of the caldera over the multicoloured cliffs are breathtaking, and at night the caldera edge is a frozen cascade of lights that eclipses the displays of the jewellery shops in the streets behind. Orientation The central square is Theotokopoulou. It s a fairly crowded, chaotic place; the main road, 25 Martiou, intersects the square as part of a one-way system that just manages to keep the nonstop traffic flow going. The bus station (25 Mitropoleos) is 150m south of Theotokopoulou. Between 25 Martiou and the caldera is the essence of Fira, a network of pedestrianised alleyways, the main ones running parallel to Martiou. Erythrou Stavrou is the main commercial thoroughfare. A block west of Erythrou Stavrou is Ypapantis, whose southern section is known also as Gold St because of its many jewellers. It runs along the edge of the caldera and has superb panoramic views until the shops intrude. Below the edge of the caldera is the paved walkway of Agiou Mina, which heads north and merges eventually with the clifftop walkway that continues north past the villages of Firostefani and Imerovigli. Keep going and you ll reach Oia; but it s a long, hot 8km. Information Fira doesn t have an EOT (Greek National Tourist Organisation) or tourist police. It s best to seek out the smaller travel agents in the town, where you ll receive helpful service. There are toilets near the taxi rank. You may need to brace yourself (they re of squat vintage). Bring your own paper but not to read. EMERGENCY Hospital (% ) On the road to Kamari. Police station (% ; Karterados) About 2km from Fira. CYCLADES

221 426 SANTORINI (THIRA) Fira Book accommodation online at SANTORINI (THIRA) Fira 427 CYCLADES FIRA To Apartments Gaby (400m); Firostefani (1.5km); Imerovigli (3km); Skaros Fish Taverna (3km) Fira Skala Nomikou Marinatou Agiou loannou Orthodox Cathedral Port police (% ; 25 Martiou) North of the square. INTERNET ACCESS PC World (% ; Central Sq; per 30min 1.30; h10am-2am May-Oct, 10am-10pm Nov-Apr) A good range of services. easyinternetcafé (25 Martiou; per hr 2.70) Self-service net connect, and wi-fi. Purchase a timed ticket from a coin machine minimum charge is 1. LAUNDRY Laundrette (Danezi; average load wash & dry 6) Next to Pelican Hotel. LEFT LUGGAGE Laundrette (Danezi; locked luggage storage per 24hrs 1.50) Erythrou Stavrou 13 M Nomikou Agiou Mina Theotokopoulou 2 Central Square 22 School Ypapantis To Firostefani(1.5km); Imerovigli (3km); Oia (8km) 25 Martiou Kontohori 5 Koneou Danezi Danezi 14 3 Dekigala Mitro poleos To Athinios (9km); Perissa (13km); Akrotiri (15km) Agiou Athanassiou 9 INFORMATION Aegean Pearl... 1 B3 Alpha Bank, ATM & American Express... 2 B3 easyinternetcafé... 3 B3 Hospital... 4 C4 Laundrette...(see 20) National Bank of Greece & ATM... 5 B3 PC World... 6 B3 Pelican Tours & Travel... 7 B3 Port Police... 8 B3 Post Office... 9 B4 Toilets B3 To Vourvoulos (3.8km) 4 MONEY There are numerous ATMs scattered around town. Alpha Bank ( Theotokopoulou) Represents American Express and has an ATM. National Bank of Greece (Dekigala) Between the bus station and Theotokopoulou, on the caldera side of the road. Has an ATM. POST Post office (Dekigala) m miles SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Archaeological Museum B2 Catholic Cathedral A2 Megaron Gyzi Museum B2 Museum of Prehistoric Thera B4 SLEEPING Aroma Suites B4 Hotel Atlantis B4 Hotel Keti A4 Loizos Apartments B4 Maria's Rooms A4 Pelican Hotel B3 Pension Petros C3 Porto Fira Suites B4 Villa Anemone C3 Villa Roussa B4 EATING Ampelos B3 Lithos B3 Nikolas B3 NRG B3 Ouzeri B3 Selene B4 Snacker's Place B DRINKING To Camping Bar B2 Santorini (200m) Enigma B3 Franco's Bar B3 Kira Thira B3 Koo Club B2 Town Club B3 Tropical B3 SHOPPING New Art B3 TRANSPORT Bus Station B4 Cable Car Station A2 Damigos B2 Taxi Stand B4 Zerbakis C3 To Karterados & Police Station (1.5km); Volcan Wine Museum (3km); Airport (7km); Kamari (10km) TRAVEL AGENCIES Aegean Pearl (% ; Danezi) An excellent, helpful agency that sells all travel tickets and can help with accommodation, car rental and excursions. Pelican Tours & Travel (% ; fax ; Theotokopoulou) Sells ferry tickets and books accommodation and excursions. Sights & Activities MUSEUMS Near the bus station, the Museum of Prehistoric Thera (% ; Mitropoleos; admission 3; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) houses extraordinary finds that were excavated from Akrotiri (where, to date, only 5% of the area has been excavated). Most impressive is the glowing gold ibex figurine, measuring around 10cm in length and dating from the 17th century BC. Many of Akrotiri s fascinating wall paintings are on display. The Archaeological Museum (% ; M Nomikou; adult/student 3/free; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), near the cable-car station, houses finds from Akrotiri and Ancient Thira, some Cycladic figurines, and Hellenistic and Roman sculptures. Behind the Catholic cathedral, Megaron Gyzi Museum (% ; Agiou Ioannou; adult/ concession 3.50/2; h10.30am-1pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-4.30pm Sun May-Oct) has local memorabilia, including fascinating photographs of Fira before and immediately after the 1956 earthquake. If you fancy a great professional photography course, based on Santorini, contact Greek Island Workshops ( It s run by top professional Glenn Steiner. Tours Tour companies operate various trips including a bus-and-boat tour ( 40), which lasts from four to eight hours depending on the itinerary and takes in Thirasia, the volcanic island of Nea Kameni, Palia Kameni s hot springs and Oia; book at travel agencies. The Bella Aurora, an exact copy of an 18thcentury schooner, scoots around the caldera every afternoon on a sunset buffet dinner tour ( 42, from May to October), stopping for sightseeing on Nea Kameni and for ouzo on Thirasia. Most travel agencies sell tickets. Sleeping BUDGET Few of Fira s sleeping options are cheap, and even budget places hike their prices in July and August. Domatia touts at the port reach impressive heights of hysteria in their bids for attention. Some claim their rooms are in town, when they re actually a long way out; be tough and ask to see a map showing the exact location. If you re looking for a caldera view, expect to pay at least double the prices of elsewhere. Many hotels in Fira, especially on the caldera rim, cannot be reached by vehicle. If you have heavy luggage, this is worth remembering. Camping Santorini (% ; torinicamping.gr; camp sites per adult/child/tent 9/4/4; pis) Located on the eastern outskirts of town, this camping ground has some shade and decent facilities. There s a self-service restaurant, minimarket and pool. It s 400m east of Theotokopoulou. There are camping bungalows also; enquire about prices. Also recommended: Villa Roussa (% ; Dekigala; s/d 50/60) Convenient and near the centre. Pension Petros (% ; s/d/tr 50/60/75; a) Decent rooms, though not much of a view. On the way to the campsite. Head down Danezi, turn left and then right. MIDRANGE Loizos Apartments (% ; s 60, d 65-80, apt 140; ais) Unbeatable value and friendly, helpful management make this one of the best places in Fira. Loizos is in a quiet location and only minutes from the centre of town and the caldera edge. Rooms are bright, clean and comfortable and those on the front upper floor have a panoramic view towards Kamari and the sea. Breakfast is 5. The same owners have similar, but cheaper accommodation at Messaria, 2.5km southeast of Fira. Apartments Gaby (% ; Nomikou; d 65-85, tw 100, apt 120) The rooms on the series of roof terraces at this excellent place guarantee fantastic sunset views, and there s a reassuring local feel that transcends Fira s surface gloss. Gaby is just beyond the convention centre on the caldera-edge path where it reaches Firostefani. Pelican Hotel (% ; Danezi; s/d/tr incl breakfast 68/84/100; ai) A smart refurbishment in recent years has made Pelican a good value choice. There s no caldera view, but rooms are comfy and well appointed. Maria s Rooms (% , ; Agiou Mina; d 70; a) A handful of charming rooms open onto a shared terrace that offers unbeatable caldera and sunset views. Rooms are small but immaculate, and are blissfully peaceful. CYCLADES

222 428 SANTORINI (THIRA) Fira SANTORINI (THIRA) Around Santorini 429 CYCLADES Hotel Keti (% ; Agiou Mina; d , tr 105; a) Recently refurbished, Hotel Keti is one of the smaller sunset view hotels in a peaceful caldera niche. Its attractive traditional rooms are carved into the cliffs. Half of the rooms have Jacuzzis. oaroma Suites (% ; Agiou Mina; s 100, d ) Opened in recent years at the quieter end of the caldera edge, this delightful boutique hotel has charming owners to match. Stylish modern facilities enhance traditional caldera interiors such as the honeymoon suite: a classic Fira cave chamber, complete with Jacuzzi. Rates are substantially reduced in low season. Villa Anemone (% ; s/d/tr 60/70/80) is run by the same family that operates nearby Pension Petros (see Budget, p427 ). On the way to the campsite. Head down Danezi, turn left and then right. TOP END Hotel Atlantis (% ; Mitropoleos; s/d incl breakfast 200/284; pas) The Atlantis is a handsome old building that overlooks the southern end of Ypapantis with a flourish. It s full of cool, relaxing lounges and terraces, and the bright and airy bedrooms in the front have caldera views. Porto Fira Suites (% ; Agiou Mina; 2-4-person ste incl breakfast ; as) Luxury on the edge is the keynote of this toprated Fira hotel that merges tradition with all the modern conveniences. Rooms are stylishly furnished and have huge stone-based beds and Jacuzzis. There s a bar and café. Eating Tourist-trap eateries, often with overpriced, indifferent food, are still an unfortunate feature of summertime Fira. In some places singles, and even families with young children, may find themselves unwelcome in the face of pushy owners desperate to keep tables full and their turnover brisk. However, there are excellent exceptions. BUDGET Snacker s Place (% ; Danezi; snacks ) A snack bar and takeaway that dishes out a terrific range of tasty sandwiches, wraps and other snacks as well as hot and cold drinks. NRG (% ; Erythrou Stavrou; dishes ) This popular little creperie right at the heart of the action is a Fira institution. As well as delicious crepes, it also does sandwiches, tortillas, an ever-popular Indian curry ( 4.80), ice cream, coffee and smoothies. oouzeri (% ; Fabrika Shopping Centre; dishes ) A complete refurbishment in 2007 reflected the popularity of this great mezedhopoleio. Its fish dishes are especially good, including prawn saganaki and a sea platter of mixed fish. Equally tasty meat dishes, including tigania (pork in wine with yogurt), will satisfy meat eaters while vegetarians can enjoy salads and a variety of nonmeat starters. Nikolas (% ; Erythrou Stavrou; dishes 6-10) A long-established restaurant at the heart of Fira offering traditional Greek cuisine such as stuffed zucchini and cuttlefish in wine. Skaros Fish Taverna (% ; dishes ) You can escape Fira s seductive grip by heading north along the caldera edge to this long-established restaurant. Dishes such as seafood salad or pork fillet in Vinsanto are worth it and so is the fantastic view. There are several gyros stands in and around the main square. MIDRANGE Lithos (% ; Agiou Mina; mains ) Amid a swath of eateries on the caldera edge, Lithos stands out for its well-prepared dishes and friendly service. Choose from persuasive starters such as fava with cheese and cherry tomatoes; salads are crisp and fresh and mains cover poultry, meat, fish and shellfish dishes. Ampelos (% ; Fabrika Shopping Centre; mains 8-22) Dine with a view from the big upstairs space at this fine restaurant. Enjoy a flavourful chicken soup with egg and lemon, or the Ampelos Pie with its mix of green onion, dill, pine nuts and Parmesan. Main dishes range across meat, poultry and fish and are all prepared with traditional (and a dash of Californian) style. The house wine is worthwhile at 7 per half-litre, while excellent Greek reds and whites are 16 to 45 per bottle. Selene (% ; Agiou Mina; dishes 23-26) There s fashionable, pricey cuisine at Selene, but if you re not into the prices or the sea urchin salad on artichoke heart, or fish and langoustine soup, you can at least gaze down at this top restaurant s sunset-aligned terrace from a public walkway on a higher level. Mains are a rich choice of meat and fish dishes such as cod in green pepper with saffron sauce. SANTORINI WINES Santorini s two lauded wines are its crisp, clear dry whites, and the amber-coloured, unfortified dessert wine Vinsanto. Most local vineyards hold tastings and tours. The atmospheric Volcan Wine Museum (% ; admission 5; hnoon- 8pm), housed in a traditional canava (winery) on the way to Kamari, has some interesting displays, including a 17th-century wooden winepress. Admission to the museum includes three tastings. On Sunday nights there s a traditional Greek night with a buffet, local dancers and the added spice of belly dancing. There s also the Art Space gallery-winery outside Kamari see p431. The following should be contacted before visiting: Boutari (% ; Megalohori) Canava Roussos (% ; Mesa Gonia) Hatzidakis (% ; Pyrgos Kallistis) Santo Wines (% ; Pyrgos) Sigalas (% ; Oia) Drinking Be ready to fork out some hefty prices, even for a beer, in the Fira clubs and bars (and check out the stellar cocktail prices). You re often paying for the view, so don t glaze over too early. Kira Thira (% ; Erythrou Stavrou) The oldest bar in Fira and one of the best. There are entrances from the streets on either side. Locals always use the same one. Guess which and you ll feel even more at home in this candle-lit bar with its smooth jazz, ethnic sounds and occasional live music. Tropical (% ; Marinatou) A seductive mix of rock, soul and occasional jazz, plus unbeatable balcony views, make this friendly bar a top Fira favourite. A stylish local crew and international crowd keep things going into the early hours. Franco s Bar (% ; Marinatou) Things move at a cooler pace at this ultimate sunset venue simply because of its sheer elegance and impeccable musical taste it s always classical sounds here. Expensive cocktails with expensive names (Maria Callas, for starters) match the style. Entertainment After midnight Erythrou Stavrou fires up the clubbing caldera of Fira. Koo Club (% ; Erythrou Stavrou) Five bars with switching ambience through well-spaced levels make this a popular place with locals and visitors alike. Sounds are mainstream and Greek hits with a touch of hip-hop. Town Club (% ; Erythrou Stavrou) Modern Greek music and mainstream are just right for the charmingly kitsch landscape of this upbeat place. Enigma (% ; Erythrou Stavrou) Frontline fashionistas sashay round the cool white walls and muslin drapes to house and mainstream hits. Bar 33 (% ; Erythrou Stavrou) A lively bouzouki place in classic Thira barrel-roofed surroundings. Shopping So much shopping, so little time this is the mantra of the hordes of cruise ship passengers who forage happily through Fira s glitzy retail zones. You can get everything from Armani and Versace to Timberland and Reef at rather glitzy prices, too. Fira s jewellery and gold shops are legion. The merchandise gleams and sparkles, and prices are high. New Art (% ; Erythrou Stavrou) If you want something different to sport back home, the quality T-shirts of designer Werner Hampel have real style. Grapes thrive in Santorini s volcanic soil, and the island s wines are famous all over Greece and beyond. Local wines are widely available in Fira and elsewhere. Sigalas Argyris (La Cava; % ) in Firostefani has a good selection of wines and local delicacies, such as caper leaves and thyme honey. AROUND SANTORINI O i a Οία pop 763 The village of Oia (ee-ah), known locally as Pano Meria, was so devastated by the 1956 CYCLADES

223 430 SANTORINI (THIRA) Around Santorini Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at SANTORINI (THIRA) Around Santorini 431 CYCLADES earthquake that it became something of a ghost town for a while. However, there is little evidence of that period because good restoration work and upmarket tourism have transformed Oia into an attractive place. Though quieter than tourist-frenzied Fira, its streets still have their share of trendy boutiques and expensive jewellery shops. Built on a steep slope of the caldera, many of its dwellings nestle in niches hewn into the volcanic rock. Oia, believe it or not, gets more sunset time than Fira, and its narrow passageways get crowded in the evenings. ORIENTATION & INFORMATION From the bus terminal, head left and uphill to reach the rather stark central square and the main street, Nikolaou Nomikou, which skirts the caldera. There is also an ATM by the bus terminal shelter. Alpha Bank Branches on Main St, near the blue-domed church, and outside Karvounis Tours. With ATM. Atlantis Books (% ; Nikolaou Nomikou) A fascinating and well-stocked little bookshop run with flair and enthusiasm by an international group of young people. Cultural events, for a small number of people, are sometimes staged here. Karvounis Tours (% ; Nikolaou Nomikou) For obtaining information, booking hotels, renting cars and bikes, and making international calls. It s also a wedding specialist. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES The maritime museum (% ; adult/student 3/1.50; h10am-2pm & 5-8pm Wed-Mon) is housed in an old mansion and has entertaining displays on Santorini s maritime history. It is located along a narrow lane that leads off right from Nikolaou Nomikou about 100m south of the Museum Hotel. Ammoudi, a tiny port with good tavernas and colourful fishing boats, lies 300 steps below Oia. In summer, boats and tours go from Ammoudi to Thirasia daily; check with travel agencies in Fira ( p426 ) for departure times. SLEEPING Oia Youth Hostel (% ; dm incl breakfast 17; hmay mid-oct) Exceptionally clean and well run, this hostel has better facilities than some hotels. It has a small bar and a lovely rooftop terrace with great views. To find it, head on from the bus terminus for about 100m. Chelidonia (% ; Nikolaou Nomikou; studios 145 apt ; ai) Buried beneath the rubble of the 1956 earthquake, these cliff-side dwellings have been lovingly restored by the friendly and helpful owner, who was born here. Furnishings are a pleasant mix of traditional and modern, and each unit has a kitchenette. Katikies (% ; katikies@otenet.gr; Nikolaou Nomikou; d 245, studios incl champagne breakfast ; ais) One of Santorini s most beautiful hotels, Katikies is at the east end of the village, just below the main street. It revels in luxury and its cliff-edge pool is spectacular. Rooms here are traditional-chic and super swish. EATING & DRINKING 1800 (% ; Nikolaou Nomikou; dishes 13-29; h pm) A former sea captain s house is now a temple to slow food. There s a magical use of herbs and subtle sauces to produce such gastro-delights as fillet of sea bream with cherry tomatoes, olives and baked fennel. The stylish dining room and terrace-patio add to the pleasure. Edwin Polski Lokal (% ; dishes ) Popular and unreservedly nonglam, this little place does tasty salads, plates and homecooked gyros. It has a sister establishment, Pizza Edwin, near the bus terminal. Skala (% ; Nikolaou Nomikou; dishes 8-14) A caldera-view terrace enhances Skala s fine traditional cuisine, which adds international touches to such treats as chicken fillet stuffed with mushrooms, or pork in honey and beer. Kamari Καμάρι pop 1351 Kamari is 10km from Fira and is Santorini s best-developed resort. It has a long beach of black sand, with the rugged limestone cliffs of Cape Mesa Vouno framing its southern end. The beachfront road is dense with restaurants and bars. Things get very busy in high season. Other less-appealing, but quieter, beaches lie to the north at Monolithos. Lisos Tours (% ; lisostours@san.forthnet.gr) is especially helpful and knowledgeable about Santorini and has an office on the main road into Kamari, and another just inland from the centre of the beach. Staff sell ferry tickets and can organise accommodation and car rental. All kinds of tours can be arranged through Lisos Tours, including fixed-wing flights over the caldera, horse riding and kayaking. There s internet access and a bureau de change. The unmissable gallery and winery Art Space (% ; Exo Gonia) is just outside Kamari. It is located in Argyro s Canava, one of the oldest wineries on the island. The atmospheric old wine caverns are hung with superb artworks while sculptures transform lost corners and niches. The collection is curated by the owner and features some of Greece s finest modern artists. Winemaking is still in the owner s blood, so a tasting of his Vinsanto greatly enhances the whole experience. Kamari is fast becoming Santorini s Cine City with two movie venues. The longestablished Cinema Kamari (% ; on the main road coming into Kamari, is a great open-air theatre that s set in a thicket of trees. It shows new releases at 9.30pm daily and midnight on Monday and Wednesday. In July it hosts the three-day Santorini Jazz Festival (% ; featuring performances by Greek and foreign musicians. In Kamari Shopping Centre is the covered Villaggio Cinema (% ; showing films at 8.30pm. SLEEPING Anna s Rooms (% ; s/d 25/35) Unbeatable budget deals can be had at these straightforward rooms. One group of rooms is behind Lisos Tours at the back of town; the other is behind Lisos office in the village. Boathouse Hotel (% ; hotel.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast 60/80/96; pas) Located near the quieter north end of the beach, these bright, spacious and well-equipped rooms are in a handsome building just across from the beach. oaegean View Hotel (% ; studios/apt 130/150; pais) High on a hill, this outstanding place spreads over several levels below sculpted cliffs. It has terrific views out over Kamari to the sea and to distant Anafi. The spacious studios and apartments are superbly laid out and have 1st-class facilities, including small kitchen areas. Head up the steep road that leads to Ancient Thira and the hotel is easily located on the right, beneath steep cliffs. Also recommended: Hotel Selini (%/fax ; s/d incl breakfast 35/45) Reliable, family-run hotel. Rooms are a good size and the hotel is just a few blocks in from Kamari beach. Hotel Matina (% ; s/d incl breakfast 92/100; ais) Spacious, brightly decorated rooms and a convenient location make this year-round hotel a good choice. EATING Amalthia (% ; dishes ) A longestablished local favourite. Amalthia is a couple of blocks inland at the southern end of town, and there s a lovely garden area and a terrace with barbecue. Friendly service goes with well-prepared Greek dishes; the lamb is particularly good. It also prepares very tasty pastas. Eanos (% ; dishes ) Full of character and characters this long-running taverna, near the south end of the waterfront, does excellent Greek dishes, including terrific mousakas. Food is cooked on a wood-burning stove and pasta is also on offer. Almira (% ; mains ) Adjacent to the Boathouse Hotel, the Almira offers an excellent range of fish, poultry and meat dishes, with lamb a speciality. Or you could try the drunken chicken, in wine with tagliatelle. omario No 1 (% ; Agia Paraskevi, Monolithos; dishes ) Right on the beach at Monolithos, this big, well-run restaurant has a terrific take on fish cuisine. Fish is by the kilo and you can select shellfish from a display. There s a great selection of meat and vegetarian dishes as well. Ancient Thira Αρχαία Θήρα First settled by the Dorians in the 9th century BC, Ancient Thira (admission 4; h8am-2.30pm) consists of Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine ruins. The ruins include temples, houses with mosaics, an agora (market), a theatre and a gymnasium. There are splendid views from the site. If you re driving, take the narrow, winding road from Kamari just over 1km. From Perissa, it takes about 45 minutes to walk to the site, along a path, on rocky, difficult ground. Ancient Akrotiri Αρχαίο Ακρωτήρι Excavations at Akrotiri (% ), the Minoan outpost that was buried during the catastrophic eruption of 1650 BC, began in 1967 and have uncovered an ancient city beneath the volcanic ash. Buildings, some three storeys high, date back to the late 16th century BC. Outstanding finds are the stunning frescoes CYCLADES

224 432 ANAFI Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at SIKINOS 433 CYCLADES and ceramics, many of which are now on display at the Museum of Prehistoric Thera ( p427 ) in Fira. At the time of writing the site was closed indefinitely, pending completion of an official investigation one visitor was killed and several others injured when a section of the roof collapsed during the summer of You may find that there is a degree of confusion locally about whether or not the site is open. Check the archaeological sites section of and check thoroughly on arrival at Santorini before making a bus or taxi journey to what may still be a closed site. es At times Santorini s black-sand beaches become so hot that a sun lounger or mat is essential. The best beaches are on the east coast. One of the main beaches is the long stretch at Perissa, a popular destination in summer. Perivolos and Agios Georgios, further south, are more relaxed. Red, near Ancient Akrotiri, has high red cliffs and smooth, hand-sized pebbles submerged under clear water. Vlyhada, also on the south coast, is a pleasant venue. On the north coast near Oia, Paradise and Pori are both worth a stop. Based at Perissa and Akrotiri is the Santorini Dive Centre (% ; offering a good range of courses including discover scuba diving for 55, half-day snorkelling for 40 and a full open-water diving course for 380. SLEEPING & EATING The main concentration of rooms can be found in and around Perissa. Hostel Anna (% ; annayh@otenet.gr; dm 10, d 20; hfeb-oct; i) Recently renovated and under new management, Anna s is a friendly, popular hostel at the entrance to Perissa, and is a great place to meet fellow travellers. A minibus picks up guests from the ferry port. Hotel Drossos (% ; s/d/tr incl breakfast 85/97/133; pais) Behind the simple façade of this fine hotel lies a beautiful complex of rooms and studios. Rooms have stylish décor and furnishings and the service is courteous and friendly. Rates quoted rise by about 20% for the first three weeks of August and drop substantially outside summer. Also recommended: Stelio s Place (% ; s/d/tr 50/60/75; pas) Family-operated and close to the beach. A bright, well-run, friendly place. Valvis (% ; d/tr 67/73, ste 83-99; pas) Modern hotel with decent-sized rooms and good facilities. There s reliable Greek food on offer at God s Garden (% ; dishes ), a decent taverna with fish dishes starting at 6. Most beaches have a range of tavernas and cafés. THIRASIA & VOLCANIC ISLETS ΘΗΡΑΣΙΑ & ΗΦΑΙΣΤΕΙΑΚΕΣ ΝΗΣΙΔΕΣ Unspoilt Thirasia was separated from Santorini by an eruption in 236 BC. The cliff-top hora, Manolas, has tavernas and domatia. It s an attractive place, noticeably more relaxed and reflective than Fira could ever be. The Nisos Thira leaves Athinios port for Thirasia on Monday and Friday, and on Wednesday mornings, but does not return to Santorini. Tickets are available only at the port. Take care of youngsters when on the upper deck near the rails (which have some child-sized gaps, especially on the port side). There are also morning and afternoon boats to Thirasia from Oia s port of Ammoudi. The islets of Palia Kameni and Nea Kameni are still volcanically active and can be visited on half-day excursions from Fira Skala and Athinios. Two-hour trips to Nea Kameni are also possible. A day s excursion taking in Nea Kameni, the hot springs on Palia Kameni, Thirasia and Oia is about 28. ANAFI ΑΝΑΦΗ pop 272 Be ready to linger in this persuasive little island that lies well outside the mainstream and offers a perfect antidote to Santorini s fastpaced glitz. The rewards of Anafi include there being few other visitors (outside busy August, at least), a slow-paced traditional lifestyle and striking Cycladic landscapes. The island s small port is Agios Nikolaos, where recent work has improved the quay. From here, the main village, Hora, is a 10- minute bus ride up a winding road, or a steep 1km hike up a less-winding walkway. In summer a bus runs every two hours from about 9am to 11pm and usually meets boats. Hora s main pedestrian thoroughfare leads uphill from the first bus stop and has most of the domatia, restaurants and minimarkets. There is a postal agency that opens occasionally, next to Panorama rooms at the entrance to Hora. In 2007 it was announced that Anafi is to have an ATM installed in the near future. Jeyzed Travel (% ; jeyzed@san.forthnet. gr), halfway along Hora s main street, sells ferry tickets, exchanges money, can help with accommodation and rents out motorbikes. It also has internet access. There are several lovely beaches near Agios Nikolaos. Palm-lined Klissidi, a 1½km walk to the port, is the closest and most popular. Anafi s main sight is the monastery of Moni Kalamiotissas, a 6km walk from Hora in the extreme east of the island, near the meagre remains of a sanctuary to Apollo. At 470m, Monastery Rock is the highest rock formation in the Mediterranean Sea, outstripping even Gibraltar. There is also a ruined Venetian kastro at Kastelli, east of Hora. Sleeping & Eating Camping is tolerated at Klissidi, but the only facilities are at nearby tavernas. Domatia owners prefer long stays, so if you re only staying one night you should take whatever you can get. In high season, contact Jeyzed Travel in advance to be sure of a room; places at Klissidi fill fast. Villa Apollon (% ; s/ d/tr 45/58/68, studios 54-78; a) At Klissidi, ANAFI Hora Agios Nikolaos To Santorini (56km); Ios (65km); Paros (130km); Naxos (140km); Piraeus (270km) A E G E A N S E A Klissidi 0 4 km 0 2 miles Kastelli Temple of Apollo Monastery Rock (470m) Moni Kalamiotissas these pleasant rooms are a good size and have an authentic traditional style. Rooms to Let Artemis (% ; d 45) These are just above the sea at Klissidi, and there s a restaurant attached. Rooms in Hora are all very similar. Many have good views across Anafi s rolling hills to the sea and to the great summit of Monastery Rock. The following recommended options are easily found on the main street, and all charge about 35 or 45 for a single or double: Panorama (% ) Paradise (% ) Anafi Rooms (% ) There are several tavernas in Hora, all of which are in the main street. Liotrivi (% ; mains 4-6) offers great fish dishes with the catch supplied from the family s boat. Cheerful, homely Astrakhan (% ; mains ), further along the street, serves up reliable Greek standards as if you re part of the family. Klissidi has a few tavernas, with similar prices. Getting There & Away There are at least seven ferries weekly to Santorini ( 6.90, 1¾ hours), six ferries weekly to Ios ( 7.90, 3½ hours), Folegandros ( 10.10, 4½ hours) and Sikinos ( 9.30, 4¼ hours), three ferries weekly to Naxos ( 11, seven hours), Paros ( 13.80, nine hours) and Piraeus ( 34, 17 hours), and two weekly to Syros ( 16.80, 12 hours). Getting Around A small bus takes passengers from the port up to Hora. Caïques serve various beaches and nearby islands. SIKINOS ΣΙΚΙΝΟΣ pop 238 Out of the way Sikinos (see-kee-noss) is another wonderful escape from the clamour of Ios and Santorini, yet this lovely island is not much smaller than Santorini. It has a mainly empty landscape of terraced hills that sweep down to the sea. The main clusters of habitation are the port of Alopronia, and the inland villages of Hora and Kastro. The latter are reached by a 3.4km winding road that leads up from the port. There s a post office at the entrance CYCLADES

225 434 SIKINOS Sights Book accommodation online at FOLEGANDROS 435 CYCLADES SIKINOS Kalogeri Kardiotissa Sikinos 432m To Naxos (30km); Paros (30km); Sifnos (55km); Milos (75km); Syros (85km); Piraeus (250km) Moni Episkopis Karra Moni Zoödohou Pigis A E G E A N S E A 0 4 km 0 2 miles Kastro Hora 552m Alopronia Katergo Agios Georgios Agios Nikolaos Malta To Santorini (56km); Ios (65km) to Kastro, and a National Bank of Greece ATM with card-slot access in the central square. The medical centre is next door to the ATM. Ferry tickets can be bought in advance at Koundouris Travel (% , ) in Kastro and also down at the port before scheduled departures. There is a petrol station outside Alopronia on the road to Kastro. You can hire scooters here from about 15. Sights Kastro, so named from an original Venetian fortress of the 13th century of which little physical sign remains, is a charming place, with winding alleyways between brilliant white houses. At its heart is the main square with a central war memorial surrounded by peaceful old buildings, one with ornate stone window-frames and -sills long since whitewashed over. On one side is the church of Pantanassa. On the northern side of Kastro, the land falls sharply to the sea and the shells of old windmills punctuate the cliff edge. A flight of whitewashed steps leads up to the once-fortified church of Moni Zoödohou Pigis above the town. To the west of Kastro, above steeply terraced fields and reached by an equally steep flight of steps, is the reclusive Hora, where numerous derelict houses are being renovated. If you continue past a telephone booth from the little main square you come to an olive press museum down flower-lined steps on the left. Opening times in summer are satisfyingly random. From the saddle between Kastro and Hora, a surfaced road leads southwest to Episkopi. The remains here are believed to be those of a 3rd-century-AD Roman mausoleum that was transformed into a church in the 7th century and then became Moni Episkopis (admission free; h6.30pm-8.30pm) 10 centuries later. From here you can climb to a little church and ancient ruins perched on a precipice to the south, from where the views are spectacular. Caïques (about 4) run to good beaches at Agios Georgios, Malta with ancient ruins on the hill above and Karra. Katergo, a swimming place with interesting rocks, and Agios Nikolaos are both within easy walking distance of Alopronia. At the time of writing, a surfaced road was being laid to Agios Georgios and beach. It is expected that buses will run to these beaches from Alopronia in summer. Sleeping & Eating In Hora and Kastro there are a few basic domatia that charge about 40 for a double. Ask at tavernas and the local shop. For a taste of old Greece, Zagoreos Rooms (% ; d 40) on the little terrace square in Hora is worth a try. Otherwise, Alopronia has most of the accommodation. Lucas Rooms (% ; Alopronia; s/d/studios 35/50/70) Two good locations are on offer here and rooms are decent and clean; one set of rooms is on the hillside, 500m uphill from the port. The studios are on the far side of the bay from the ferry quay and have great views. Porto Sikinos (% ; Alopronia; s/d/tr incl breakfast 80/99/115) Just up from the quay, the attractive rooms here rise in a series of terraces and have great balcony views. There s also a bar and restaurant. Rock (% ; Alopronia; dishes ) High above the ferry quay is this cheerful seasonal café and pizza place, where you can also chill into the early hours (sometimes to live music). There are rooms here as well, with doubles priced at 40 to 45. Lucas (% ; Alopronia; dishes ) Down at the port, this is the favourite taverna, offering Greek standards without frills. To Steki tou Garbi (Kastro; dishes 4-8) A good traditional grill house just around the corner from Koundouris Travel in Kastro. To Iliovasilema (% ; mains 5-9) Outstanding views enhance a stop at this seasonal place, which dishes up standards as well as pizzas and pasta. There s a minimarket next to Lucas and another in Kastro. Getting There & Away Seven ferries weekly go to Piraeus ( 26.10, 11 hours) and six weekly go to Santorini ( 6.50, 2½ hours). There are five weekly to Ios ( 3.70, 30 minutes); two to Naxos ( 6.30, 3½ hours) and Syros ( 11.10, eight hours); six to Paros ( ½ hours); four to Folegandros ( 4.30, 45 minutes), Kimolos ( 8.20, four hours) and Anafi ( 9.10, 4½ hours); three weekly to Milos ( 10.90, 3½ hours); and two weekly to Sifnos ( 9.50, five hours), Serifos ( 11.60, six hours) and Kythnos ( 15.20, 8½ hours). Getting Around The local bus meets all ferry arrivals and runs between Alopronia and Hora/Kastro ( 1.10, 20 minutes) every half-hour in August, but less frequently at other times of the year. A timetable is sometimes posted near the minimarket. It s wise to be in good time at the departure point. FOLEGANDROS Cape Kiparissi Ampeli Agios Georgios Zoödohous Pigis Agios Pantelemenos Livadaki Merovigli 312m Agios Andreas Ano Meria To Sifnos (50km); Milos (64km); Serifos (73km); Piraeus (220km) Folegandros Agios Nikolaos Vathi Bay Angali FOLEGANDROS ΦΟΛΕΓΑΝΔΡΟΣ pop 662 It s hard to leave Folegandros (fo-leh-gandross) and its beauty, its timelessness and its friendly local people. The island is a rocky ridge, barely 12km in length and just under 4km at its widest point. Much of the land is over 200m in height, the highest point being Agios Eleftherios at 414m. The remoteness and ruggedness of Folegandros made it a place of exile for political prisoners from Roman times to the 20th century, and as late as the military dictatorship of The capital is the concealed cliff-top Hora, one of the most appealing villages in the Cyclades. Boats dock at the little harbour of Karavostasis, on the east coast. The only other settlement is Ano Meria, 4km northwest of Hora. There are several good beaches, but be prepared for strenuous walking to reach some of them. A E G E A N S E A Vorina Bay Agios Eleftherios (414m) Piakas Bay Hora Petousis Panagia Karavostasis Karavostasis Bay Vitsentzou Livadi 0 2 km 0 1 mile To Syros (95km) Vardia To Sikinos (19km) Livadi To Santorini (40km); Ios (45km); Naxos (57km); Paros (58km) Cape Vigla Katergo CYCLADES

226 436 FOLEGANDROS Karavostasis Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at FOLEGANDROS Hora 437 CYCLADES Getting There & Away FAST BOAT & CATAMARAN From about mid-june to mid-september there are six weekly ferries to Piraeus ( 41.50, five hours), Sifnos ( 16, 45 minutes), Santorini ( 14, 45 minutes), Amorgos ( 25, two hours), Naxos ( 19, 3¼ hours) and Paros ( 16, 3¾ hours). FERRY From May to October there are daily services to Piraeus ( 26, 11 hours), Santorini ( 6.90, 1½ to 2½ hours), Ios ( 5.50, 1½ hours), Paros ( 7.90, four hours), Naxos ( 9.60, three hours) and Sikinos ( 4.30, 45 minutes). Three weekly services go to Syros ( 12, five hours), Milos ( 7, 2½ hours), Sifnos ( 4.30, four hours) and Serifos ( 10.30, five hours). Two weekly ferries go to Kimolos ( 5.50, 1½ hours) and Anafi ( 12, five hours). Once weekly there s a ferry to Kythnos ( 15, six hours). Getting Around The local bus meets all ferry arrivals and takes passengers to Hora ( 1.20). From Hora there are buses to the port one hour before all ferry departures, even for the late-night services. Buses from Hora run hourly to Ano Meria ( 0.40), stopping at the road leading to Angali. The bus stop for Ano Meria is located on the western edge of Hora, next to the Sottovento Tourism Office. There is a taxi service (% , ) on Folegandros. You can hire cars also for about 35 to 40 per day, and motorbikes from 15 to 20 per day, from a number of outlets. KARAVOSTASIS ΚΑΡΑΒΟΣΤΑΣΙΣ pop 55 Folegandros port is a sunny little place serviced by a sprinkling of domatia and tavernas, and with a pleasant pebble beach. Within a kilometre north and south of Karavostasis lies a series of other beaches, all enjoyable and easily reached by short walks. In high season boats leave Karavostasis for beaches further afield. Sleeping & Eating Camping Livadi (% ; camp sites per adult/child/tent 6/4/4) This site is at Livadi, 1.2km from Karavostasis. It has a bar-restaurant and laundry. To get here turn south on the cement road skirting Karavostasis. Aeolos Hotel (% ; s/d/studios 45/65/90) Just across from the beach, this friendly hotel has a pretty garden and clean straightforward rooms. Vrahos (% ; s incl breakfast 68, d incl breakfast 85-98, studios & apt ; ai) In a great location at the far end of the beach, Vrahos rises through a series of terraces, and the front balconies have great views of the bay. Rooms have cool décor and there s an outdoor Jacuzzi, a bar and a breakfast area. Breakfast is Restaurant Kati Allo (% ; dishes ) Reliable, traditional dishes are served up at this pleasant place right behind the beach. Seafood is by the kilogram. Drinking There are a couple of good beachside bars. For enduring character, Evangelos is right on the beach and is the place for relaxed drinks, snacks and great conversation. HORA ΧΩΡΑ pop 316 Hora s medieval kastro, with its attractive main street flanked by lovely traditional houses, is a major feature of Hora, but the rest of the village is a delight also. The meandering main street winds happily from leafy square to leafy square. On its north side, Hora stands on the edge of a formidable cliff. Orientation The port Hora bus turnaround is in the square, called Pounta. From here follow a road to the left into Dounavi, from where an archway on the right, the Paraporti, leads into the kastro. Dounavi leads on to Kontarini, then to Piatsa and, finally, to Maraki. Keep on through Maraki to reach many of the music bars and the bus stop for Ano Meria and most beaches. Information There s no bank, but there is an ATM on the far side of Dounavi, next to the community offices. The post office is on the port road, 200m downhill from the bus turnaround. Travel agencies can exchange travellers cheques. Diaplous Travel (% ; Pounta) Helpful and efficient agency sells ferry tickets, exchanges money and arranges accommodation, car and bike rental and boat excursions. Internet access per 15 minutes costs 1. Maraki Travel (% ; fax ; Dounavi; h10.30am-noon & 5-9pm) Sells ferry tickets and exchanges money. Medical Centre (% ; Pounta) Police station (% ) Straight on from Maraki. Sottovento Tourism Office (% ; At the west end of town; doubles as the Italian consulate and is very helpful on all tourism matters, including accommodation, international and domestic flights and boat trips. Sights Hora is a pleasure to wander through. The medieval kastro, a tangle of narrow streets spanned by low archways, dates from when Marco Sanudo ruled the island in the 13th century. The houses wooden balconies blaze with bougainvillea and hibiscus. The extended village, outside the kastro, is just as attractive. From Pounta and the bus turnaround, a steep path leads up to the large church of the Virgin, Panagia (h6pm- 8pm), which sits perched on a dramatic clifftop above the town. Tours Boat trips around the island (per adult/child including lunch 25/10) and to nearby Sikinos (per adult/child 22/11) can be booked through Diaplous Travel and Sottovento Tourism Office. Festivals & Events The annual Folegandros Festival, staged in late July, features a series of concerts, exhibitions and special meals, at venues around the island. Sleeping In July and August most domatia and hotels will be full, so book well in advance. Hotel Polikandia (% ; polikandia@yahoo. gr; s/d 65/85; ai) Just before the port Hora bus turnaround, this is a pleasant airy place with good-sized rooms arranged around a delightful reception and flower-filled garden area. Breakfast is Aegeo (% ; aegeofol@hol.gr; s/d/tr 80/85/110; ai) Located on the outskirts of town, the beautiful rooms with immaculate furnishings are in a peaceful complex here at Aegeo that captures the classic Cycladean style. This style is evident also in its central courtyard area, all white and blue and draped with crimson bougainvillea. The same family has cheaper, but equally immaculate rooms, at Evgenia Rooms on the approach to Pounta. oanemomylos Apartments (% ; d ; ais) A prime position on top of a cliff ensures awesome views from the seaward-facing rooms of this stylish complex. Rooms are the ultimate in Cycladic cool, and fine antiques add to the ambience. Anemomylos is just up from the bus turnaround. One unit is equipped for disabled use. Eating Melissa (% ; Kontarini; mains ) A local favourite where good food is matched by charming owners. The island speciality of matsata (hand-made pasta) with meat of your choice is always worthwhile and vegetarians will relish the local ingredients in dishes such as briam. Melissa also does good breakfasts. opounta (% ; Pounta; dishes ) In Pounta s garden setting there s an inescapable sense of old Greece, and the courteous service enhances this. The traditional food is excellent, from tasty breakfasts to evening meals of rabbit stew, lamb and vegetarian dishes. It s all served on delightful crockery made by one of the owners, Lisbet Giouri; you can buy examples of her work. Zefiros (% ; dishes ) A great ouzerie and mezedhopoleio with a challenging selection of ouzo varieties. There are mezedhes plates for two at 20, as well as mixed small plates, all served up cheerfully. Keep left past Kontarini. Other recommended places: Piatsa Restaurant (% ; dishes ) Excellent Greek food such as matsata, usually with cockerel or rabbit. Chic (% ; dishes ) Classic Greek cuisine as well as tasty vegetarian dishes, including spinach pie with cheese, raisins and pine nuts. Pizza Pazza (% ; dishes ) Above the Greco Cafe-Bar. To Mikro (% ) Charming place for coffee, crepes and tasty cakes. CYCLADES

227 438 MILOS Getting There & Away MILOS Getting Around 439 CYCLADES Entertainment Folegandros has its own West End a clutch of great music bars at the western edge of Hora. Greco Café-Bar (% ) Near the Sottovento Tourism Office, and featuring vivid and appealing murals. The friendly ambience here is enhanced by a great mix of sounds from a stock of over 1000 CDs. Avli Club (% ) Near Greco, early evening lounge music gives way to rock, disco, Latin and Greek here, as things liven up into the night. Apanemo (% ) Further along the road from Avli Club is this pleasant bar that has a lovely garden. Further on from Apanemo is a long-established and fine little bar, Laoumi, that plays jazz, ethnic, funk, soul, South American and Caribbean sounds, with style. A Folegandros local treat is rakomelo heated raki with honey and cloves. One of the best local bars where you can enjoy it and get into the spirit of things is Astarti, next to the Melissa taverna on Kontarini. AROUND FOLEGANDROS Ano Meria Ανω Μεριά pop 291 The settlement of Ano Meria is a scattered community of small farms and dwellings that stretches for several kilometres. This is traditional island life where tourism makes no intrusive mark and life happily wanders off sideways. The folklore museum (admission 1.50; h5pm- 8pm) is on the eastern outskirts of the village. Ask the bus driver to drop you off nearby. There are several good traditional tavernas in Ano Meria, including I Synantisi (% ; dishes 4-8) and Mimi s (% ; dishes ), which specialise in matsata, the local hand-made pasta dish. es For Livadi, 1.2km southeast of Karavostasis, follow the signs for Camping Livadi. Further round the coast on the southeastern tip of the island is Katergo, best reached by boat from Karavostasis. The sandy and pebbled Angali beach, on the coast opposite to Hora, is a popular spot, but remember that while it s a 1km downhill walk from where the bus drops you off, it s a steep and sweaty hike back up. There are several domatia here and two reasonable tavernas. About 750m over the hill by footpath west of Angali is Agios Nikolaos, a nudist beach. Livadaki beach is over 2km further west again. It is best reached by another 1.5km hike from the bus stop near the church of Agios Andreas at Ano Meria. Boats connect these west coast beaches in high season. Agios Georgios is north of Ano Meria and requires another demanding walk. Have tough footwear, sun protection and, because most beaches have no shops or tavernas, make sure you take food and water. In July and August, weather permitting, excursion boats make separate trips from Karavostasis to Katergo, Angali and Agios Nikolaos and from Angali to Livadaki beach. MILOS ΜΗΛΟΣ pop 4771 Friendly, likeable Milos (mee-loss) has a surreal and dramatic coastal landscape with colourful and crazy rock formations that reflect the island s volcanic origins. Milos also has hot springs, the most beaches of any Cycladic island and some compelling ancient sites. The island has a fascinating history of mineral extraction dating from the Neolithic period when obsidian was an important material. Over the years such materials as sulphur and kaolin have been mined and today Milos is the biggest bentonite and perlite production and processing centre in the EU. Filakopi, an ancient Minoan city in the island s northeast, was one of the earliest settlements in the Cyclades. During the Peloponnesian Wars, Milos was the only Cycladic island not to join the Athenian alliance. It paid dearly in 416 BC, when avenging Athenians massacred the adult males and enslaved the women and children. The island s most celebrated export, the beautiful Venus de Milo (a 4th-century-BC statue of Aphrodite, found in an olive grove in 1820) is far away in the Louvre (allegedly having lost its arms on the way to Paris in the 19th century). Getting There & Away AIR There is a daily flight to/from Athens (one way 50, 40 minutes) with Olympic Airlines (% ; fax ; airport), based at the airport. Flights are MILOS & KIMOLOS To Sifnos (50km); Paros (96km); Syros (115km); Piraeus (161km) M I R T O Ö N S E A To Crete (194km); Rhodes (440km) Ammoudaraki Agiou Ioannou 395m 387m Cape Vani 299m Kleftiko Aspronisi Islet Cape Psalida 749m Akradies Cape Kambanes Plathiena Fourkovouni Mandrakia Sarakiniko Areti Plaka Triovasalos Trypiti Ancient Theatre & Klima Catacombs Adamas Milos Bay Agios Nikolaos Langada Yarakas Firopotamos 331m often heavily booked by people in mining and related businesses. FAST BOAT & CATAMARAN One boat a day goes to Sifnos ( 13.50, 1¾ hours) and Serifos ( 14, 1¼ hours). At least one daily goes to Piraeus ( 42, 3¾ hours). FERRY A car ferry departs five times daily from Pollonia for Kimolos at 9am, 11am, 2.15pm, 6.30pm and 10.40pm (per person 1.80, plus 1.50 for a moped, 3.20 for a motorbike and 8 for a car, 20 minutes). From the main port of Adamas there are two ferries daily to Piraeus ( 25, five to seven hours); Sifnos ( 7, 1¼ hours, one daily), Serifos ( 7.50, Hot Springs Provatas A E G E A N S E A Glaronisia Islet Papikinou Milos Zefiria Cape Firiplaka Agios Andreas Polonia Strait Cape Pelekouda Pollonia Agios Konstantinos Hot Springs Filakopi Paleohori 0 5 km 0 3 miles Paleokastro 364m Ancient Kimolos Voudia Bay 276m Cape Gerahia Kimolos Hora Aliki Voudia Sulphur Mine Psathi S E A O F C R E T E To Sifnos (26km); Paros (63km); Syros (105km); Piraeus (159km) Prassa Petrol Station Thermal Spring Klima Goupa-Kara Poliegos To Ios (100km); Santorini (131km) two hours) and Kythnos ( 11.50, 3½ hours); and six weekly to Kimolos ( 4.50, one hour). Three times weekly a ferry sails to the Cretan port of Sitia ( 21.60, nine hours) and then on to Karpathos in the Dodecanese ( 33.40, 15 hours) and Rhodes ( 34, 21 hours). There are three weekly ferries to Folegandros ( 7.10, 2½ hours) and Sikinos ( 10.90, three hours), and two weekly to Paros ( 11.40, 4½ hours). There is one weekly ferry to Santorini ( 15.60, four hours), Ios ( 13.70, 5½ hours) and Syros ( 11.70, eight hours). Getting Around There are no buses to the airport (south of Papikinou), so you ll need to take a taxi CYCLADES

228 440 MILOS Adamas Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at MILOS Plaka & Trypiti 441 CYCLADES (% ) for 7, plus 0.30 per piece of luggage, from Adamas. A taxi from Adamas to Plaka is 7; add 1 for evening trips. Buses leave Adamas for Plaka and Trypiti every hour or so. Buses run to Pollonia (four daily), Paleohori (three daily), Provatas (three daily) and Arhivadolimni (Milos) Camping, east of Adamas (three daily). All fares are A helpful car hire is Giourgas Rent a Car (% , ; giourgas@otenet.gr), reached by heading east from the ferry quay, going inland from where the waterfront road crosses a dry river bed and then turning right just past Aeolis Hotel. Cars, motorcycles and mopeds can also be hired from places along the waterfront. ADAMAS ΑΔΑΜΑΣ pop 1391 Plaka is the capital of Milos and the most appealing of all the settlements, but the pleasant, lively port of Adamas has most of the accommodation, shops and general services, plus a diverting waterfront scene. Orientation For the town centre, turn right from the arrival quay. The central square, with the bus stop, taxi rank and outdoor cafés, is at the end of this stretch of waterfront, where the road curves inland. Just past the square is a road to the right that skirts the town beach. Information ATMs can be found outside Vichos Tours midway along the main harbourfront and in the main square. The post office is along the main road, 50m from the main square, on the right. Municipal Tourist Office (% ; -island.gr; h8am-midnight mid-jun mid-sep) Opposite the quay; one of the most helpful offices in the Cyclades. Terry s Travel Services (% ; Friendly, helpful service goes with a great love of the island here. Help with accommodation, car rental, kayaking and sailing trips, diving and much more. Head left from the ferry quay, and, just past the bend in the road, go right up a lane. Police station (% ) On the main square, next to the bus stop. Port police (% ) On the waterfront. Sights & Activities The Milos Mining Museum (% ; admission free; h9am-2pm & 6-9pm Jul mid-sep, 8am-2.30pm Tue-Sat mid-sep Jun) is a must for mining enthusiasts; in fact, it s a must for everyone. It s about 600m east of the ferry quay. Dive courses are offered by Milos Diving Center (% ; based at Pollonia. It s a member of the International Association for Handicapped Divers. Tours Milos Round 1 & 2 (% ; tours 25; hmay-sep) Has tour boats departing daily at 9am, stopping at beaches around the island and pausing at Kimolos for lunch. Return is at 6pm. Buy tickets on the waterfront. Milos Yachting (% ; hmay-sep) Has sailing trips (per person 60) to the island s nicest beaches and coves; includes a seafood lunch, ouzo and sweets. Sailing tours ( 240) take place in the southwest Cyclades. Book through travel agencies. Festivals & Events The Milos Festival, a well-orchestrated event, is held in early July and features traditional dancing, cooking and jazz. Sleeping In summer, lists of available domatia are given out at the tourist office on the quay, but decent accommodation is thin on the ground make sure you call ahead. Arhivadolimni (Milos) Camping (% ; fax ; Arhiva-dolimni; camp sites per adult/child/tent 7/4/4, bungalows ) This camping ground has excellent facilities, including a restaurant, bar and bike rental. It s 4.5km east of Adamas; to get here, follow the signs along the waterfront from the central square or take the bus (see Getting Around, p439 ). Hotel Delfini (% ; fax ; s/d 45/65; hapr-oct; a) A pleasant, long-standing place with good rooms and facilities. Neighbouring hotels have rather stolen the view, but there s a lovely terrace. It s to the west of the ferry quay and is tucked in behind the Lagada Hotel. Aeolis Hotel (% ; d 85) An immaculate hotel with relaxing décor and fine furnishings, the Aeolis is a short distance inland from where the waterfront road crosses a dry river bed. Rates drop substantially outside August. Villa Helios (% ; fax ; heaton. theologitis@utanet.at; apt ; hmid-may mid-oct; a) In an unbeatable location, high above the port, are these stylish, beautifully furnished apartments for two or four people. Portiani Hotel (% ; los.com; s/d incl buffet breakfast 120/150; pa) The port s main waterfront hotel is right next to the square, but the fine rooms have a pleasant air of seclusion, and are worth the price, if you want all mod cons, including a lift for disabled access. The upper balconies have great views. The buffet breakfast features delicious local products. Eating Taverna Barko (% ; dishes ) A classic mezedhopoleio. On the road to Plaka, near the outskirts of town, Barko offers some real treats such as Milos cheese pie and octopus in wine. It also serves pasta. I Milos (% ; dishes ) This likeable place is at the far end of the main square s line of waterfront cafés and tavernas. It offers breakfast ( 4.10 to 6.20) and is great for coffee. Lunch dishes include pizzas and pastas. The sweet of tooth should try loukoumadhes fried balls of dough flavoured with cinnamon and served with honey syrup. Flisvos (% ; dishes ) Fish is by the kilogram at this busy waterfront taverna, to the east of the ferry quay. It serves good charcoal-grilled Greek specialities without fuss. Salads are crisp and fresh and the cheese and mushroom pies are delicious. Entertainment Halfway up the first staircase along from the ferry quay are a couple of popular music bars including Ilori and Vipera Lebetina, playing disco, pop and Greek music during July and August. Akri (% ) Further uphill, opposite Villa Helios, Akri is in a beautiful location with a fine terrace overlooking the port. Music favours ethnic, funk and easy listening. It s also open for breakfast ( 5 to 8). Upstairs is an elegant gallery selling superb glass jewellery, paintings, pottery and sculpture, many by island artists. PLAKA & TRYPITI ΠΛΑΚΑ & ΤΡΥΠΗΤΗ Plaka, 5km uphill from Adamas, is a typical Cycladic town with white houses and labyrinthine lanes. It merges with the settlement of Trypiti to the south and rises above a sprawl of converging settlements, yet has a distinctive and engaging character. Plaka is built on the site of Ancient Milos, which was destroyed by the Athenians and rebuilt by the Romans. Sights & Activities The archaeology museum (% ; admission 3; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) is in Plaka, just downhill from the bus turnaround. It s in a handsome old building and contains some riveting exhibits, including a plaster cast of Venus de Milo that was made by Louvre craftsmen as a sort of Venus de Mea Culpa, perhaps. Best of all is a perky little herd of tiny bull figurines from the Late Cycladic period. The Milos Folk & Arts Museum (% ; h10am-2pm & 6-9pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun & Mon) has fascinating exhibits, including traditional costumes, woven goods and embroidery. It s signposted from the bus turnaround in Plaka. At the bus turnaround, go east for the path that climbs to the Frankish Kastro, built on the ancient acropolis and offering panoramic views of most of the island. The 13th-century church, Thalassitras, is inside the walls. There are some Roman ruins near Trypiti, including Greece s only Christian catacombs (% ; admission free; h8am-7pm Tue-Sun). Stay on the bus towards Trypiti and get off at a T-junction by a big signpost indicating the way. Follow the road down for about 500m to where a track (signed) goes off to the right. This leads to the rather forlorn, but somehow thrilling, spot where a farmer found the Venus de Milo in 1820; you can t miss the huge sign. A short way further along the track is the well-preserved ancient theatre, which hosts the Milos Festival every July. Back on the surfaced road, head downhill to reach the 1st-century catacombs. Sleeping & Eating All of the following places are located in Plaka. Betty s Rooms (% ; d 70) Forget Santorini; these delightful rooms in a friendly family house are at the bottom end of Plaka and have fantastic views. Archondoula Karamitsou Studios (% ; ste 130) More great views are enjoyed at these traditional rooms, which are full of local craftwork and island antiques. Prices drop substantially outside August. CYCLADES

229 442 KIMOLOS Getting There & Away Book accommodation online at SIFNOS Kamares 443 CYCLADES oarchondoula (% ; dishes ) This cheerful, family-run mezedhopoleio is a delight. All the family is involved, and the food is classic traditional across a range of favourites from fresh salads to spicy grilled goat s cheese to shrimps with cream sauce. It s just along the main street from the bus turnaround in Plaka. Utopia Café (% ) One of best views in the Cyclades can be enjoyed from the cool terrace of Utopia. Head down the narrow alley opposite Archondoula and prepare to have your breath taken away. Mainly a cafe and drinks place, it s open until the early hours. AROUND MILOS The village of Klima, below Trypiti and the catacombs, was the port of ancient Milos. It s a picturesque fishing village with a lovely little harbour. Whitewashed buildings, with coloured doors and balconies, have boathouses on the ground floor and living quarters above. Plathiena is a fine sandy beach below Plaka, to the north. On the way to Plathiena you can visit the fishing villages of Areti and Fourkovouni. At Sarakiniko are snow-white rock formations and natural terraces. Pollonia, on the north coast, is a fishing village cum-resort with a beach and domatia. The boat to Kimolos departs here. The beaches of Provatas and Paleohori, on the south coast, are long and sandy, and Paleohori has hot springs. KIMOLOS ΚΙΜΩΛΟΣ pop 769 Perhaps because it is too often seen as an adjunct to its larger neighbour, Kimolos has hung on to a genuine otherworldliness. It lies just northeast of Milos and receives a steady trickle of visitors, especially daytrippers arriving from Pollonia. The boat docks at the port of Psathi, from where it s 1.5km to the pretty capital of Hora. The medieval kastro, embedded at the heart of Hora, is a joy. Albeit in ruins, there are surviving walls and restoration work is ongoing. There s an ATM by the town hall in Hora. es can be reached by caïque from Psathi. At the centre of the island is the 364m-high cliff on which sits the fortress of Paleokastro. There are domatia, tavernas, cafés and bars enough in Hora and Psathi. Domatia owners meet ferries. Expect to pay single/double rates of about 35/50. The taverna To Kyma (% ; dishes ), on the beach at Psathi, is fine for Greek-standard meals. There is one petrol station on Kimolos; it s about 200 metres to the north of Psathi. Getting There & Away Boats go daily to and from Pollonia on Milos, departing from Kimolos at 8am, 10am, 1.15pm, 5.30pm and 10pm (see p439 for details on boats to Kimolos). There are six boats weekly to and from Piraeus ( 17.50, eight hours) via Sifnos ( 6.50, 1½ hours), Serifos ( 5.90, 3¾ hours) and Kythnos ( 11, three hours). There are four ferries weekly to Adamas ( 4.90, one hour) and Syros ( 11.70, five hours) and two weekly to Folegandros ( 5.50, three hours) and Sikinos ( 8.20, four hours). Two weekly ferries go to Paros ( 9.60, 4½ hours) and Santorini ( 12.80, 3½ hours). SIFNOS ΣΙΦΝΟΣ pop 2900 Sifnos (see-fnoss) masks it many charms behind a curtain of high barren hills. Beyond all this, however, is an abundant landscape of terraced olive groves and almond trees, with oleanders in the valleys and juniper and aromatic herbs covering the hillsides. It is a sizable island and has a number of villages. Plenty of old paths link these villages and walking on Sifnos is particularly satisfying. The Anavasi map series Topo 25/10.25 Aegean Cyclades/Sifnos is useful for footpath details. During the Archaic period the island was very wealthy because of its gold and silver resources, but by the 5th century BC the mines were exhausted and Sifnos fortunes were reversed. The island has a tradition of pottery making, basket weaving and cooking. SIFNOS To Serifos (24km); Kythnos (63km); Paros (74km); Piraeus (146km) Cape Heronisos Kamares Bay To Milos (50km); Santorini (105km) Heronisos Vathy Bay Agios Dimos 476m Vathy A E G E A N S E A Sifnos Kamares Ano Petali Artemonas Kastro Apollonia Seralia Kato Petali Katavati Exambelas 680m Moni Profiti Ilia Cape Kondou 0 4 km 0 2 miles Platys Gialos 201m Moni Hrysopigis Kitriani Faros Platys Gialos Bay Fasolou Hrysopigis Getting There & Away FAST BOAT & CATAMARAN In summer fast catamarans run daily except Wednesday between Serifos and Piraeus ( 37.50, 2¾ hours), Milos ( 12.50, 45 minutes), Folegandros ( 16, 45 minutes), Santorini ( 31, 1¾ hours), Serifos ( 11.50, 20 minutes) and Syros ( 21, 5¾ hours). Six weekly go to Paros ( 10.50, five hours) and Naxos ( 30, 4¼ hours) and one weekly heads to Kythnos ( 12, 2¼ hours). FERRY There are daily ferries to Piraeus ( 24, five hours) via Serifos ( 6.50, one hour) and Kythnos ( 8.50, 2½ hours). There are six ferries weekly to Milos ( 7, two hours) and Kimolos ( 6.50, 1½ hours), three ferries weekly to Folegandros ( 4.30, four hours), Sikinos ( 9.50, four hours) and Santorini ( 12.50, eight hours), and four weekly to Paros ( 4.20, two hours) and Syros ( 8.20, five hours). Getting Around Frequent buses link the island s main town, Apollonia, with the following: Kamares ( 1.20), with some services continuing on to Artemonas ( 1.20), Kastro ( 1.20), Vathy ( 1.70), Faros ( 1.30) and Platys Gialos ( 1.70). Taxis (% ) hover around the port and Apollonia s main square. Representative fares from Kamares are 6 to Apollonia, 8 to Platys Gialos and 9 to Vathy. Cars can be hired from Stavros Hotel (% ) in Kamares, and from Apollo Rent a Car (% ) in Apollonia, for 30 to 55. KAMARES ΚΑΜΑΡΕΣ The port of Kamares (kah-mah-rez) has a cheerful holiday atmosphere, not least because of its large beach. There are lots of waterfront cafés and tavernas and a good mix of shops, from food stores to craft shops. The bus stop is by the tamarisk trees just past the inland end of the ferry quay. Information There are toilets near the tourist office, plus an ATM booth. Municipal tourist office (% /31975; h9.30am-11pm Jul & Aug, 9.30am- 2.30pm & 5-11pm Easter-Oct, 10am-11pm Sun-Tue & Thu, 11am-5pm Wed, 10am-10pm Fri & Sat Sep-Easter) Opposite the bus stop is this very helpful and well-organised office. Opening times may vary depending on boat arrivals. The office opens for boats that arrive late into the night. It sells ferry tickets and can find accommodation anywhere on the island. There s luggage storage (per item 1) and you can buy a useful clutch of information sheets about the island. There s also information on walking trips, bus schedules and ferry times. Yamas Café Bar Internet (% ; per hr 4; h8.30am-early hrs) Half way along the waterfront and up some steps. It also serves light snacks and breakfasts ( 5 to 8). Sleeping & Eating Domatia owners rarely meet boats and in high season it s best to book ahead. Camping Makis (% ; ing.gr; camp sites per adult/child/tent 6.50/3.50/4, r from 50; hapr-nov; pa) Well-run, relaxing and friendly, this pleasant camping ground is just behind the beach. It has an outdoor café, a barbecue area, minimarket, a laundry and shaded sites. Simeon (% ; studios_simeon@hotmail.com; s/d/apt 40/55/120; hapr-oct) From their little balconies, the small front rooms here have stunning views down across the port and along the beach CYCLADES

230 444 SIFNOS Apollonia Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at SERIFOS 453 CYCLADES to soaring mountains beyond. Other rooms are not so blessed, but are bigger. You get here by going up steepish steps from the waterfront. Stavros Hotel (% /33383; travel.com; s/d/tr 55/70/75; a) Main street s Stavros has been refurbished in recent years. Rooms are comfy and bright and are a good size. Attached to the hotel is an information office that can arrange car hire and has a book exchange. The same family owns Hotel Kamari (% ) on the outskirts of Kamares, on the road to Apollonia rooms here are 40/50/55 per single/double/triple. Hotel Afroditi (% ; s/d incl breakfast 65/80; pa) The welcoming, family-run Afroditi is across the road from the beach. Rooms are a decent size and breakfast is a definite plus. There are sea views to the front and mountain views to the rear. O Symos (% ; dishes ) Among a swath of waterfront tavernas, this popular place uses locally sourced ingredients in such appealing dishes as linguini and shrimps in saffron ( 12) and a delicious revithia (chickpea) soup. Another good eatery is the cheerful, familyrun Posidonia (% ; dishes 3-8), where you can get a full breakfast for 6. APOLLONIA ΑΠΟΛΛΩΝΙΑ The capital of Sifnos is situated on the edge of a plateau 5km uphill from the port. The stop for buses to and from Kamares is on Apollonia s busy central square, where the post office and Museum of Popular Art are located. Because of congestion, all other buses pick up passengers about 50m further on, at a T-junction where the road to the right goes to Vathy and Platys Gialos and the road to the left goes to Artemonas and Kastro. There is a big car park at the entrance to Apollonia. Constant traffic seems to be the norm, but step away from the main road onto the pedestrian thoroughfare behind the museum and Apollonia is transformed. There is an Alpha Bank (with ATM), and the Piraeus Bank and National Bank of Greece (both with ATMs) are just round the corner from the Kamares stop on the road to Artemonas; the police station is another 50m beyond. Internet Café 8 (% ; per hour 4; h9am- 1am) is about 150m along the road to Platys Gialos. Bookshop (% ), just down from the bus stop, has newspapers and a good selection of books in various languages. The quirky Museum of Popular Art (% ; admission 1; h10am-2pm & pm Tue- Sun), on the central square and just opposite the post office, contains a splendid confusion of old costumes, pots, textiles and photographs that could keep you going for hours. Sleeping & Eating Mrs Dina Rooms (% , ; s/d/tr 40/55/65) There are flowers everywhere at this pleasant little complex of rooms, which are located a couple of hundred metres along the road south towards Vathy and Platys Gialos. The rooms are well above the road and have views towards Kastro. Gerontios Rooms (% ; s/d/tr 40/50/60) A fine choice, these flower-bedecked rooms are set high above the village centre with wide views to the village of Kastro. Head north towards Ano Petali from the centre of Apollonia. Eftychia (% ; d 55; a) These pleasant, well-kept rooms are in a garden setting along the road towards Vathy and Platys Gialos. Taverna Sifnos (% ; dishes 3-9) Beside an attractive little square at the heart of Apollonia s pedestrianised main street, this familyrun taverna has a good menu of well-prepared island dishes. There are rooms here also, with singles/doubles for 50/70. Apostoli to Koutouki (% ; dishes 5-9) Fish is sold by the kilogram at this long-established place on the main street. It also serves meat and chicken specialities. AROUND SIFNOS Not to be missed is the walled cliff-top village of Kastro, 3km from Apollonia. The former capital, it is a magical place of buttressed alleyways and whitewashed houses. It has a small archaeological museum (% ; admission free; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun). Buses go to Kastro from Apollonia but you can walk there, mainly on old paved pathways. The start of the path is 20m to the right (Vathy road) from the T-junction in Apollonia. A pleasant path circumnavigates Kastro and is especially scenic on its northern side midway round the northern side, above the glittering sea, is the wonderful little art workshop of Maximos (Panagiotis Fanariotis) (% ), whose speciality is handmade jewellery in original gold and silver motifs. Prices for (Continued on page 453) (Continued from page 444) these lovely pieces start at about 6 and are far below the usual price charged for work of this high quality. There is also accommodation here (see Sleeping & Eating, below ). Platys Gialos, 6km south of Apollonia, has a big, generous beach, entirely backed by tavernas, domatia and shops. The bus terminates at the beach s southwestern end. Vathy, on the west coast, is an easy-going little village within the curved horns of an almost circular bay. Faros is a cosy little fishing hamlet with a couple of nice beaches nearby, such as the little beach of Fasolou, reached up steps and over the headland from the bus stop. Sleeping & Eating K A S T R O Maximos (% ; r 50) A tiny terrace with unbeatable sea views comes with this quirky little room beside Maximos workshop (see p444 ), located on the northern side of Kastro. Rafeletou Apartments (% , ; d 60-77, tr 70-90, apt ) For an authentic Kastro experience, these familyrun apartments at the heart of the village are delightful. oto Astro (% ; mains 5-9; hmid-apr Oct) Kastro s genuine star, as the name translates, certainly lives up to its name. Lovingly run by the owner-cook, it offers delicious island dishes including eggplant and meatballs, octopus with olives, and lamb in traditional Sifniot style. PLATYS GIALOS ΠΛΑΤΥΣ ΓΙΑΛΟΣ Although there are plenty of sleeping places here, most cater for package tourists. Camping Platys Gialos (% ; camp sites per adult/child/tent 6/4/4) Located about 500m from the beach, this is a reasonable camping ground in an olive grove. Platys Gialos Hotel (% ; fax ; s/d 150/170; pa) This peaceful hotel overlooks the south end of the beach. It has lovely terraces and a garden area, and rooms have imaginative, old-fashioned fittings. There s a loyal clientele, so it s wise to book well in advance. Angeliki Rooms (% ; d/tr 48/57) A beachfront venue with pleasant rooms, near the quieter south end of the beach and just back from the bus terminus. To Koutouki (% ; dishes 5-9) Right on the beach and run by the family that has the same-name place in Apollonia ( p444 ), there are excellent fish dishes to be had here. Fish is by the kilogram but there s a reasonably priced choice. VAT H Y ΒΑΘΥ There are several sleeping options here, for ordinary mortals and for the mega-rich. Areti Studios (% ; d/apt 55/85; pa) Lies a short distance back from the beach within its own lovely gardens. Rooms are clean and bright and the welcome is friendly. If you are driving, the approach is down a rough and at times very narrow track that goes off left just before the main road ends. Grit your teeth. Elies Resort (% ; d , apt ; hmay-oct; pais) Inconspicuous, ultraprivate tourism, if you have the cash, is the story at this lush, luxury resort hotel. The huge complex, with gorgeous pool and gourmet restaurant, is subtly merged into the hillside above Vathy Bay and spills down to a beach. Rooms are sumptuous; suites and apartments are virtually houses, with the most expensive having their own terrace pool. All this and a champagne breakfast thrown in. Vathy has a good choice of beachfront tavernas, such as Oceanida and Manolis, offering reliable Greek dishes. SERIFOS ΣΕΡΙΦΟΣ pop 1414 The traditional hora of Serifos (seh-ri-fohs) is a dramatic scribble of white houses that crowns a high and rocky peak, 2km to the north of the port of Livadi. It catches your eye the minute the ferry docks and transforms an otherwise everyday scene. Serifos is generally barren and rocky, but has a few pockets of greenery that are the result of tomato and vine cultivation. There are some pleasant paths linking various villages; the Anavasi map series Topo 25/10.26 Aegean Cyclades/Serifos is useful. Serifos is known for its windy mountain ridges, and there are plans afoot for a mega wind farm (see boxed text, p455 ) however, there s fierce opposition from many. CYCLADES

231 454 SERIFOS Livadi Book accommodation online at SERIFOS Hora 455 CYCLADES SERIFOS A E G E A N S E A To Piraeus (135km) Megalo Livadi Sykamia Serifos Avessalos Panagia 582m Koutalas Ganema Vagia Ambeli Cape Katano 0 4 km 0 2 miles Galani 502m Hora Platys Gialos Bay Moni Taxiarhon Pirgos Livadi Livadakia Karavi Kendarhos Agios Ioannis Psili Ammos Lia To Sifnos (24km); Kimolos (41km); Milos (55km); Ios (83km); Santorini (120km) Vodi To Paros (72km) Getting There & Away FAST BOAT & CATAMARAN In summer fast catamarans run daily except Wednesday between Serifos and Piraeus ( 31.50, 2¼ hours), Sifnos ( 11.50, 25 minutes), Milos ( 14, 1¼ hours) and Folegandros ( 20.50, 1½ hours). FERRY There is a daily ferry to Piraeus ( 16, 4½ hours) and Sifnos ( 6.50, one hour), and six ferries weekly to Milos ( 7.50, two hours) and Kimolos ( 8.50, 2½ hours). Four times weekly a ferry goes to Kythnos ( 8, 1½ hours), and twice weekly boats go to Paros ( 7.60, three hours), Syros ( 7.50, two to four hours) and Folegandros ( 10.30, 5¼ hours). There are weekly boats to Santorini ( 16.20, seven hours), Ios ( 12.20, six hours) and Sikinos ( 11.60, five hours). Getting Around There are frequent buses between Livadi and Hora ( 1.20, 15 minutes); a timetable is posted at the bus stop by the yacht quay. Vehicles can be hired from Krinas Travel in Livadi. LIVADI ΛΙΒΑΔΙ pop 537 The port town of Serifos is a fairly low-key place where, in spite of growing popularity, there s still a reassuring feeling that the modern world has not entirely taken over. Just over the headland that rises from the ferry quay lies the fine, tamarisk-fringed beach at Livadakia. A walk further south over the next headland, Karavi is the unofficial clothes-optional beach. Information There is an Alpha Bank (with ATM) on the waterfront and an ATM under the bakery sign opposite the yacht quay. There was once an official tourist information office that opened mid-july to August on the waterfront, but opening has been uncertain in recent years. The post office is midway along the road that runs inland from opposite the bus stop and then bends sharply right. Krinas Travel (% ; sertrav@otenet.gr) Just where the ferry quay joins the waterfront road, this helpful agency sells ferry tickets and organises car (per day 45) and scooter (per day 19) hire. It also has internet access at 2 per half-hour. Port police (% ) Up steps just beside Krinas Travel. Sleeping & Eating Coralli Camping (% ; fax ; camp sites per adult/child/tent 7/3/6, bungalows s/d 30/55; pis) This well-equipped camping ground, shaded by tall eucalypts, is just a step away from sandy Livadakia. Bungalows have mountain or sea views. There s also a restaurant and a minimarket, and internet access for 2 per half-hour. A minibus meets all ferries. Hotel Areti (% ; fax ; s/d/tr 50/65/75) With a great location on a hill above the ferry quay, and well-kept rooms with attractive décor, this is one of the better places in Serifos. There are also apartments nearby. Alexandros-Vassilia (% ; fax ; s/d 50/70) Located right behind the beachfront of Livadakia. It s a complex of rooms in a rose-fragrant garden setting and is fronted by a taverna. Rooms and studios are a good size and are clean and well equipped (studios have cooking facilities). The taverna does sturdy Greek staples for 4.50 to 9. Yacht Club Serifos (% ; breakfast , snacks & sandwiches ; h7am-3am) There s a terrific ambience at this waterfront cafébar. Music ranges from lounge by day to mainstream, rock, disco and funk late into the night. Passaggio (% ; mains ) Opened in recent years, this stylish waterfront restaurant brings some international touches to traditional cuisine. Starters such as cod dumplings are delicious, and other treats include steamed mussels or chicken pie with feta. Also recommended for reliable Greek standards (both on the waterfront): Stamatis (% ; mains ) Taverna Takis (% ; mains ) Entertainment Metalleio (% ; h9pm-early hrs) Tucked away on the road beyond the waterfront, Metalleio doubles as a decent restaurant and a very cool music venue featuring an eclectic array of sounds from around the world, including jazz, funk, Afro, Asian groove and Latin. The restaurant offers mainly poultry and meat dishes (mains 6 to 13.50). There are a couple of fairly loud music bars on the central waterfront such as the Malabar Café and, in the same complex, the Captain Hook Club. The Yacht Club Serifos is one of the coolest venues. HORA ΧΩΡΑ The hora of Serifos spills across the summit of a rocky hill above Livadi and is one of the most striking of the Cycladic capitals. Ancient steps lead up from Livadi, though they are fragmented by the snaking road that links the two. You can walk up, but in the heat of summer, going up by bus is wiser. Just up from the bus terminus, steps climb into the wonderful maze of Hora proper, and lead to the charming main square, watched over by the imposing neoclassical town hall. From the square, narrow alleys and more steps lead ever upwards to the remnants of the ruined 15th-century Venetian Kastro. Low walls enclose the highest part of the kastro, from where the views are spectacular. A small church occupies part of the summit. Back downhill, there s a post office just up from the bus turnaround. Hora has a small archaeological museum (% ; admission free; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) displaying fragments of mainly Hellenic and Roman sculpture excavated from the kastro. Exhibits are sparse and the museum tiny, but it is a pleasure to visit. Panels in Greek and English spell out fascinating details, including the legend of Perseus. WIND & WATER: THE BIG GREEN ISSUES The Cyclades have plenty of wind and water, and these two elements are at the forefront of current controversies among islanders. The big green issues in the Cyclades are projects such as the mega wind farm planned for Serifos where, at the time of writing, islanders were opposing a plan to site scores of wind generators along the windy crest of the island s mountainous interior. While acknowledging the green credentials of wind power, many who love Serifos believe the number and size of the planned windmills makes for an intrusion too far, especially since most of the power generated would go to the mainland. On several of the islands, yacht marinas are currently under construction, and these are projects that are seen as positive tourism ventures. But not all port extensions have been welcomed. In 2007 Naxos was gripped by controversy over plans that would have extended the port area substantially. A courageous handful of islanders believed that the plan was overwhelming in every way in terms of its size and of its potential negative impact on the port s tourism appeal and general lifestyle. They took their case to the Council of State, Greece s highest administrative court, which ruled against the plan on the grounds that it was illegal. The matter caused sometimes bitter division on the island, and the future of the development remains unclear. These are ground level green issues that are capable of serious impact on the larger life of the Cyclades. They take the sheen off our often-rosy view of island life. They also resonate with many similar issues of our own countries. As visitors we can make a contribution to these debates by at least being aware of them, and perhaps by simply talking about them a general awareness may develop in Greece. Meanwhile, on the remote island of Sikinos, locals are setting up imaginative ventures aimed at primary production such as livestock breeding, beekeeping and vine growing, and are staying with small-scale, sustainable tourism. CYCLADES

232 456 KYTHNOS Getting There & Away Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at KYTHNOS Merihas 457 CYCLADES There is a pleasant walk on a fine cobbled pathway that starts just above the archaeological museum and leads up the mountain to the little church of Agios Georgios. The views are superb. Sleeping & Eating I Apanemia (% , ; s/d 30/35) You won t get better value than at this family-run place, where the decent, well-equipped rooms have front balcony views down towards the distant sea and side views up towards Hora. ostou Stratou (% ; plates 4-18) The tradition of the mezedhopoleio is alive and well at this bar-café in the pretty main square. There are tasty mezedhes ( 3 to 4.50) and choices such as a vegetarian plate or a mixed plate of Cretan smoked pork, ham, cheese, salami, stuffed vine leaves, feta, potato, tomatoes and egg, which will keep two people more than happy. Also available are breakfasts, ice creams, delicious sweets and cocktails. The stylish menu (more of a booklet) provides added pleasure it features the work of famous artists as well as excerpts from a number of writers. Karavomylos (% ; dishes ) has a pleasant terrace. Delicious mezedhes and local dishes are a speciality and it serves an excellent choice of breakfasts ( 3 to 9). There s music in the bar and occasional live sessions of Greek traditional music, including rembetika. AROUND SERIFOS About 1½ kilometres north of Livadi along a surfaced road is Psili Ammos. A path from Hora heads north for about 4km to the pretty village of Kendarhos (also called Kallitsos), from where you can continue by a very windy road for another 3km to the 17th-century fortified Moni Taxiarhon, which has impressive 18th-century frescoes. The walk from the town to the monastery takes about two hours. You will need to take food and water, as there are no facilities in Kendarhos. KYTHNOS ΚΥΘΝΟΣ pop 1700 Kythnos is more of a weekend destination for mainlanders and glossy motor cruisers. The island doesn t attract too many foreign visitors. Yet this is a Greek island of some character, and once you escape the rather dowdy port of Merihas, the island rewards, not least in its pleasantly relaxed way of life. The main settlements are Merihas, the capital Hora and the very traditional village of Dryopida. There s an Emboriki bank (with ATM) on the road above the Merihas waterfront, and an ATM just past the flight of steps as you come from the ferry quay. Antonios Larentzakis Travel Agency (% /32291) sells ferry tickets, can arrange accommodation and rents out cars and motorbikes. It s up the flight of steps near Ostria Taverna that leads to the main road. Hora has the island s post office and police station (% ). The port police (% ) are on the waterfront in Merihas. Getting There & Away FAST BOAT & CATAMARAN There is one boat weekly to Piraeus ( 27, 1½ hours) and Sifnos ( 12, 2¼ hours). FERRY There are at least two ferries to Piraeus daily ( 12.50, 2½ hours). Most services coming KYTHNOS To Lavrio (48km) To Piraeus (96km) A E G E A N S E A To Syros (74km); Tinos (81km); Mykonos (98km) Flambouria To Kimolos (41km); Serifos (52km); Sifnos (63km); Milos (85km); Santorini (155km) Dimitrios Fikiado Episkopi Cape Berou Kythnos 297m Loutra Apokrousi Merihas 302m 0 4 km 0 2 miles Kanala Cape Kefalos Hora (Kythnos) Dryopida 308m Cape Tzoulis from Piraeus continue to Serifos ( 8, 1½ hours), Sifnos ( 8.50, 2½ hours), Kimolos ( 11, three hours) and Milos ( 11.50, 3½ hours). There are six weekly ferries to Lavrio ( 8.20, 3½ hours), three weekly to Syros ( 7.90, two hours) and two weekly to Kea ( 5.90, 1¼ hours), Folegandros ( 14.50, six hours), Sikinos ( 15.20, seven hours) and Santorini ( 19.70, eight hours). A ferry runs once weekly to Andros ( 11.70, five hours). Getting Around There are regular buses in high summer from Merihas to Dryopida ( 1.20), continuing to Kanala ( 2.20) or Hora ( 1.30). Less-regular services run to Loutra ( 2.20). The buses supposedly meet the ferries, but usually they leave from the turn-off to Hora in Merihas. Outside school holidays the only buses tend to be school buses. Taxis (% ) are a better bet, except at siesta time. It s 12 to Hora and 7 to Dryopida. There are, however, only a few taxis on the island. MERIHAS ΜΕΡΙΧΑΣ pop 289 Merihas (meh-ree-hass) does not have a lot going for it other than a bit of waterfront life and a slightly grubby beach. But Merihas is a reasonable base and has most of the island s accommodation options. There are better beaches within walking distance north of the quay (turn left facing inland) at Episkopi and Apokrousi. Sleeping & Eating Domatia owners usually meet boats and there are a number of signs along the waterfront advertising rooms; alternatively enquire at Larentzakis Travel Agency ( opposite ). A lot of places block-book during the high season and there is some reluctance towards one-night stopovers. You should definitely book ahead for July and August. Anna Gouma Rooms (% , ; s/d 40/50) These pleasant, good-sized rooms are right across the bay from the ferry quay, and are away from the hubbub. Giannoulis Rooms (% ; fax ; d/tr 40/50) There are useful enough small rooms here, although they are rather faded. They re above the O Merihas café. It s essential to book ahead here in high season and at weekends. O Merihas (% , under 6 for coffee and cakes) A great local zaharoplasteio (patisserie) on the ground floor of Giannoulis Rooms, dishing up coffee, drinks, snacks and cakes. Taverna to Kandouni (% ; dishes 5-12) Near the port police on the waterfront, Kandouni is a popular family-run taverna specialising in fish dishes and grilled meats. Ostria (% ; dishes 6-13) On the waterfront near the quay, Ostria has reasonable Greek fare. Seafood is by the kilo. AROUND KYTHNOS The capital, Hora (also known as Kythnos or Messaria), is steadily taking on a distinctive charm, underpinned by its inherent Greek character. Small, colourful cafés and shops are growing in number. The long straggling main street makes for a pleasant stroll. The post office and police are at the entrance to town coming from Merihas. The resort of Loutra is 3km north of Hora on a windy bay and hangs on to its status through its surviving thermal baths. From Hora there s a pleasant 5km walk south to Dryopida, a picturesque town of redtiled roofs and winding streets clustered steeply on either side of a ravine. It s home to a remarkable cave called Kataphyki that extends for 600m. Much work has been carried out to make the cave accessible, but things seem to have stalled at the time of writing. You re best to cover the 5km back by road to Merihas by bus or taxi. There are good beaches at Flambouria about 2.5km south of Merihas, and near Kanala on the southeast coast. Sleeping & Eating There are plenty of rooms and apartments in Loutra although they tend to be block-booked for stays of more than two days. In Dryopida some private houses let rooms in summer. Ask at shops and tavernas. Filoxenia (% ; d/tr/q 65/75/90; pa) In Hora, these delightful, family-run studios are just at the entrance to the main village and overlook a garden. Rooms are immaculate and well appointed and there s a charming welcome. There are several decent tavernas in Hora including Koursaros, To Steki and Mezzeria. CYCLADES

233 Lonely Planet Publications 458 KEA Korissia Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at KEA Ioulida 459 CYCLADES K E A ΚΕΑ (ΤΖΙΑ) pop 2417 Kea is the most northerly island of the Cyclades and the island closest to Attica, and attracts more mainland locals than foreign visitors. It is an island that wears its many charms quietly and, between its bare hills, green valleys are filled with orchards, olive groves and almond and oak trees. The main settlements on the island are the port of Korissia, and the attractive capital, Ioulida, about 5km inland. There are several fine beaches and some excellent signposted footpaths. Local people use the name Tzia for their island. Getting There & Away Boats are usually packed on Fridays and you should avoid the Sunday night ferry to Lavrio, unless you enjoy controlled rioting. If you plan a Sunday departure, make sure you get your ticket before Friday and have some rugby-playing experience. Services connect Kea with Lavrio ( 5.90, 1¼ hours) on the mainland at least twice daily KEA To Kythnos (39km); Syros (76km) Pisses To Lavrio (31km) Koundouros Cape Tamelos Korissia Havouna Flea Agia Irini Vourkari Gialiskari Kea 450m 570m Ellinika 0 4 km 0 2 miles Ioulida Astra To Andros (31km) Otzias Pera Meria A E G E A N S E A Moni Panagias Kastrianis Cape Spathi and as often as six times daily in summer. Three weekly ferries go to Kythnos ( 5.90, 1¼ hours) and on to Syros ( 9.40, four hours). One weekly boat goes to Tinos ( 10.30, five hours) and Andros ( 8, six hours). A slow ferry runs each Friday from Kea to Milos ( 11.70, 15½ hours), Kimolos ( 11.70, 14½ hours), Folegandros ( 17.70, 13 hours), Sikinos ( 19.20, 12 hours), Ios ( 18.70, 11¼ hours), Naxos ( 14.40, 9 hours) and Paros ( 14.40, 8 hours). Getting Around In July and August there are, in theory, regular buses from Korissia to Vourkari, Otzias, Ioulida and Pisses although there may be irregularities in the schedules. A taxi (% /228) may be a better bet, to Ioulida ( 6) especially. Motorcycle and car rental is well above the usual high-season prices on other islands. Expect to pay, per day, anything from 25 for a scooter and from 50 for a car. KORISSIA ΚΟΡΗΣΣΙΑ pop 555 The port of Korissia (koh-ree-see-ah) is a fairly bland place, but there are enough tavernas and cafés to pass the time. The north-facing port beach tends to catch the wind. Information There is an ATM next door to the Art Café and also near Hotel Karthea. The Piraeus Bank (with ATM) is behind the beach. There is a small ferry ticket office next to the carrental agency on the waterfront. Art Café (% ; internet access per 30min 3.50; h8.30am-midnight) On the waterfront. Tourist information office (% ) The official tourist office, opposite the ferry quay, has lists of domatia in Greek, but not much more. Sleeping & Eating Domatia owners don t meet ferries. It s wise to book in high season and at weekends. Hotel Tzia (% ; fax ; s/d/tr 50/57/60; a) This is a functional beachfront building and is owned by the municipality of Kea; rooms are adequate and clean and it s a straight leap into the sea from the front. Hotel Karthea (% ; fax ; s/d/tr 55/65/80) Architectural brutalism from a lost age defines the Karthea. And it s convenient for the port. Rooms are clean and comfortable and those at the rear overlook a quiet garden area. There s no lift to the several floors. In 1974, the deposed colonels of the Greek junta were said to have been imprisoned in the newly opened hotel for a short time. Hotel Brillante Zoi (% ; ante.gr; s/d incl breakfast 95/110, apt incl breakfast ; pa) Individual décor in each room adds to the pleasant ambience of this boutique hotel. It has a charming garden setting and is midway along the beach road, about 300m from the ferry quay. The hotel is only robbed of sea views by the presence of Hotel Tzia, opposite. There are several tavernas along the waterfront, all dishing up fairly standard fare for about 3.50 to 9, with Akri (% ) being one of the best. The Art Café (% ) has a pleasant ambience and is great for people-watching. Kea has more supermarkets than most islands. On Friday nights they get very busy as the weekender influx stocks up. IOULIDA ΙΟΥΛΙΔΑ pop 700 Ioulida (ee-oo-lee-tha) is Kea s gem and has a distinctly metro feel at weekends. It s a delightful scramble of narrow alleyways and rising lanes that lies along the rim of a natural amphitheatre among the hills. It was once a substantial settlement of ancient Greece, but few relics remain and even the Venetian kastro has been incorporated into private houses. The houses have red-tiled roofs like those of Dryopida ( p457 ) on Kythnos. The bus turnaround is on a square just at the edge of town. From the turnaround, an archway leads into the village. Turning right and uphill takes you into the more interesting heart of Ioulida proper. The post office is part-way up on the right. Sights Ioulida s archaeological museum (% ; admission free; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) is just before the post office on the main thoroughfare. It houses some intriguing artefacts, mostly from Agia Irini ( below ). The famed Kea Lion, chiselled from slate in the 6th century BC, lies on the hillside beyond the last of the houses. Head uphill from the museum and keep going until abreast of the Kea Lion across a shallow valley. The path then curves round past a cemetery and the Lion, with its Mona Lisa smile, is ahead. Sleeping & Eating There are a few domatia in Ioulida, and several decent tavernas. Ask about rooms at tavernas. Recommended eateries with good Greek dishes from about 4.50 to 10 (with lamb and fresh fish costing more): Estiatorio I Piatsa (% ) Just inside the archway. Kalofagadon (% ) On the main square. AROUND KEA The beach road from Korissia leads past Gialiskari for 2.5km to where the waterfront quay at tiny Vourkari is lined with yachts and cafés. Vourkariana Art Gallery (% ) is set back midwaterfront among the cafés and restaurants; it stages changing exhibitions of world-class art works over the summer. Just across the bay from Vourkari are the truncated remains of the Minoan site of Agia Irini. Excavations during the 20th century indicated that there had been a settlement here since 3200BC and that it functioned for over 2000 years. The road continues for another 3km to a fine sandy beach at Otzias. A dirt road continues beyond here for another 5km to the 18th-century Moni Panagias Kastrianis (% ), which has terrific views. Pisses is the island s best beach and is 8km southwest of Ioulida. It is long and sandy, and backed by a verdant valley of orchards and olive groves, with rugged hills rising above. Lonely Planet Publications. 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234 Lonely Planet Publications 460 CRETE History 461 CRETE C r e t e Κρήτη Crete is more like a small country than another Greek island. It s not just Greece s largest island, but arguably the most fascinating and diverse. Crete s remarkable history is evident across the island, from the ruins of Minoan palaces, Venetian fortresses, old mosques and Byzantine monasteries to the cave that is the legendary birthplace of Zeus. The Venetian ports of Hania and Rethymno are two of Greece s most evocative cities. Crete is renowned for its natural beauty and diverse landscape. Spectacular mountain ranges dotted with caves are sliced by dramatic gorges that spill out to sea. The rugged interior is interspersed with vast plateaus and fertile plains. The east boasts Europe s only palm-tree forest beach and the south coast has some of the most stunning beaches and isolated coves. Cretans are proud and hospitable people who maintain their culture and customs, particularly their strong musical tradition. Throughout the island you will come across traditional mountain villages and agricultural settlements unaffected by tourism. The young might drive four-wheel-drives but you will still pass shepherds tending their flocks and come across men in traditional dress. An abundance of fresh produce and the distinct Cretan cuisine renowned for its lifeprolonging qualities adds an interesting culinary dimension. Crete has the dubious honour of hosting nearly a quarter of Greece s tourists. Much of the north coast has been commandeered and spoilt by hotels and cheap package tourism, but the island is big enough for independent travellers to venture off and find quiet beach settlements and mountain villages to explore. HIGHLIGHTS Evocative Towns Discovering one of Greece s most beautiful cities, Hania s Old Town ( p485 ) Minoan Palaces Opening a window into the magnificent Minoan civilisation at Knossos ( p472 ) History Explored Inspecting the treasures in Iraklio s archaeological museum ( p466 ) Spectacular Gorges Hiking through the Samaria Gorge ( p493 ) the longest in Europe Southern beaches Relaxing at Preveli ( p483 ) and the spectacular south coast of Rethymno ( p476 ) POPULATION: 540,045 Hania Samaria Gorge AREA : 8335 SQ KM Rethymno Preveli Iraklio Knossos HISTORY Although Crete has been inhabited since Neolithic times ( BC), for most people its history begins with the Minoan civilisation. The glories of Crete s Minoan past remained hidden until British archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans made his dramatic discoveries at Knossos in the early 1900s. The term Minoan was coined by Evans and derived from the King Minos of Greek mythology. Nobody knows what the Minoans called themselves. Among the ruins unearthed by Evans were the famous Knossos frescoes. Artistically, the frescoes are superlative; the figures that grace them have a naturalism lacking in contemporary Cycladic figurines, ancient Egyptian artwork (which they resemble in certain respects), and the Archaic sculpture that came later. What is known is that early in the 3rd millennium BC, an advanced people migrated to Crete and brought with them the art of metallurgy. The Protopalatial period ( BC) saw the emergence of a society of unprecedented artistic, engineering and cultural achievement. It was during this time that the famous palace complexes were built at Knossos, Phaestos, Malia and Zakros. Also during this time, the Minoans began producing their exquisite Kamares pottery (see p467 ) and silverware, and became a maritime power trading with Egypt and Asia Minor. Around 1700 BC the complexes were destroyed by an earthquake. Undeterred, the Minoans built bigger and better palaces on the sites of the originals, as well as new settlements in other parts of the island. Around 1450 BC, when the Minoan civilisation was at its peak, the palaces were mysteriously destroyed again. While there is continued speculation as to the cause of this destruction, the latest theory suggests it was the result of a giant tsunami that followed the massive volcanic eruption on the island of Santorini (Thira). Knossos was the only palace to be salvaged. It was finally destroyed by fire around 1400 BC. The Myceneans appeared in Crete during this time, but the Minoan civilisation was a hard act to follow. The war-orientated Dorians, who arrived in Greece around 1100 BC, were pedestrian by comparison. The 5th century BC found Crete, like the rest of the country, divided into city-states. The glorious classical age of mainland Greece had little impact on Crete, and the Persians bypassed the island. It was also ignored by Alexander the Great, so was never part of the Macedonian Empire. By 67 BC, Crete had fallen to the Romans. The town of Gortyna in the south became the capital of Cyrenaica, a province that included large chunks of North Africa. Crete, along with the rest of Greece, became part of the Byzantine Empire in AD 395. In 1210 Crete was occupied by the Venetians, THE MYSTERIOUS MINOANS Of the many finds at Knossos and other Minoan sites, it is the celebrated frescoes that have captured the imagination of experts and amateurs alike, shedding light on a civilisation hitherto a mystery. They suggest a society that was powerful, wealthy, joyful and optimistic. Gracing the frescoes are graceful white-skinned women with elaborately coiffured glossy black locks, dressed in stylish gowns that reveal perfectly shaped breasts. The bronze-skinned men are tall, with tiny waists, narrow hips, broad shoulders and muscular thighs and biceps; the children are slim and lithe. The Minoans seemed to know how to enjoy themselves. They played board games, boxed and wrestled, played leap-frog over bulls and over one another, and performed bold acrobatic feats. As well as being literate, they were religious, as frescoes and models of people partaking in rituals testify. The Minoans beliefs, like many other aspects of their society, remain an enigma, but there is sufficient evidence to confirm that they worshipped a nature goddess, often depicted with serpents and lions. Male deities were distinctly secondary. Women enjoyed a respected position in society, leading religious rituals and participating in games, sports and hunting. Minoan society may have had its dark side, however, with evidence of human sacrifice being practised on at least one occasion, although probably in response to an extreme external threat. CRETE

235 462 CRETE Getting There & Away CRETE Getting There & Away 463 CRETE km 12 miles CRETE To the Peloponnese (195km); Piraeus (310km); Ionian Islands (480km) Cape Spatha Moni Agria Islet Gouvernetou Cape Rodopos Akrotiri Peninsula Vouxa Peninsula Stavros Bay of Katholiko S E A O F Imeri Islet Balos Kalathas C R E T E Moni Agias Gramvousa Bay of Gulf of Hania Triadas Peninsula Kissamos Kolymvari Souda Bay Falasarna Platanias Hania Kissamos- Spilia Agia Souda Cape Drepano Kalyviani Kastelli Marina Kalami Drepano Panormos Bali Sises Malaxa Platanos Drapanias Peninsula Voukolies Fournes Vamos Almyros Ano Paleokastro Zymbragos Mt Platanias Perama Meskla Bay Pigi Sfinari Polyrrinia Volakias Vryses Georgioupolis Loutra Drosia HANIA Lakki (2147m) Adele Rethymno Margarites Kambos Alikambos Kyrianna Elos Strovles Agia Omalos Kandanos Irini Armeni Moni Mt Kournas Episkopi Anogia Vathi Xyloskalo Arkadiou Psiloritis Moni Lake Apostoli (2456m) Askyfou Hrysoskalitissas Agia Irini Mt RETHYMNO Patsos Gorge Imbros Myrthios Koxare Amari Melisses Voutas Gingilos Pachnes Moni Imbros Gorge Elafonisi (2454m) Spili Sougia Anopolis Selia Fourfouras Komitades Lefkogia Gerakari Elafonisi Kouroutes Paleohora Lissos Skaloti Nithavris Islet Loutro Mt Kedros Amari Cape Plakias (1777m) Valley Krios Agia Frangokastello Moni Platanos Kamares Samaria Gorge Roumeli Nea Krya Vrysi Melambes Hora Preveli National Park Sweet Agios Vori Water Sfakion Tymbaki Triopetra Pavlos Agia Agios Mires Galini Pavlos Agia Mesaras Triada Gulf Phaestos Matala Pitsidia Paximadia Platia Islands Peramata Sam Gorge aria Lefka Gavdopoula To Piraeus (320km) O ri To Piraeus (320km) Cape Lithino To Piraeus (350km) Cape Stavros Lendas To the Cyclades (150km); Thessaloniki (740km) Agia Pelagia To Santorini (110km) S E A O F C R E T E Kastri/Keratokambos (Kastri) To Piraeus (390km) Cape Agios Ioannis To Piraeus (400km) To Kasos (85km); Karpathos (100km); Rhodes (195km); Halki (200km) Dragonada Island Cape Sideros Gianysada Iraklio Island Itanos Fodele Bay Iraklio Spinalonga Island Elasa Hersonisos Plaka Moni Sisi Kolokytha Island Toplou Gournes Elounda Peninsula Marathos Knossos Agia Gonies Tylisos Malia Gulf of Skalani Fourni Olous Fotia Palekastro Mirabello Sitia Sklavokambos Myrtia Skopi Mitato Tzermiado Arhanes Kastelli Agios Mohlos Maronia Psyhro Agios Lato Nikolaos Zakros Agios Paraskies Ancient Zakros Georgios Kritsa Kato Kavousi Krya Katsidoni Kato Zakros Houdetsi Thrapsano Lasithi Kroustas Istron Dikteon Pahia Ammos Agia Plateau Arkalohori Cave Kalo Horio Varvara Gournia LASITHI Ziros Xerokambos Mt Dikti Males Moni Faneromenis Panagia (2148m) Makrygialos Kalamafka Kato Ha Gorge Zaros IRAKLIO Ano Viannos Horio Koutsouras Goudouras Gortyna Amiras Koutsounari Mesohorio Ierapetra Arvi Myrtos Koufonisi Pyrgos Tertsa Tsoutsouros Gaïdouronisi (Hrysi Islet) Vaï CRETE Karabe Gavdos L I B Y A N S E A whose legacy is one of mighty fortresses, ornate public buildings and monuments, and handsome dwellings. Despite the massive Venetian fortifications, which sprang up all over the island, by 1669 the whole of the mainland was under Turkish rule. The first uprising against the Turks was led by Ioannis Daskalogiannis in Many more insurrections followed, and in 1898 the Great Powers (Great Britain, France and Russia) intervened and made the island a British protectorate. It was not until the signing of the Treaty of Bucharest in 1913 that Crete officially became part of Greece, although the island s parliament had declared a de facto union in Crete saw much heavy fighting during WWII. Germany wanted the island as an air base and on 20 May 1941 German parachutists landed on Crete. It was the start of 10 days of fierce fighting that became known as the Battle of Crete. For two whole days the battle hung in the balance until Germany won a bridgehead for its air force at Maleme, located near Hania. The Allied forces of Britain, Australia, New Zealand and Greece then fought a valiant rear-guard action which enabled the British Navy to evacuate 18,000 of the 32,000 Allied troops on the island. The German occupation of Crete lasted until the end of WWII. During the war a large and active resistance movement was subject to heavy reprisals from the Germans. Many of Crete s mountain villages were bombed or burnt down and their occupants killed. GETTING THERE & AWAY This section provides an overview of air and boat options to and from the island of Crete. For more comprehensive information, see the relevant sections under specific town entries. Air Crete has two international airports. The main and biggest one is at Iraklio and there is a smaller one at Hania. Sitia s small domestic airport was expanded but has yet to start operating international charters. All three have flights to Athens and Thessaloniki; Iraklio also has flights to Rhodes. Ferry Crete has ports at Iraklio, Souda (for Hania), Rethymno, Agios Nikolaos, Sitia and Kissamos. The car price for ferries from Crete to the mainland is about 86. Ferries may stop at different islands en route and sailing times vary on some routes because of the type of craft used. The following are the main high-season schedules; services are reduced by about half during low season. MAIN FERRY CONNECTIONS TO CRETE Origin Destination Duration Fare Frequency Gythio Kissamos 7hr weekly Kythira Kissamos 4hr weekly Piraeus Agios Nikolaos 12hr 34 2 weekly Piraeus Souda (Hania) 8½hr 30 2 daily Piraeus Souda (Hania)* 4½hr daily Piraeus Iraklio 8hr 32 2 daily Piraeus Iraklio 6½hr weekly Piraeus Rethymno 10hr daily Piraeus Rethymno* 6hr 57 daily Piraeus Sitia 14½hr 34 2 weekly Rhodes Iraklio 14½hr weekly Rhodes Agios Nikolaos 12hr 27 2 weekly Rhodes Sitia 10hr 27 2 weekly Santorini Iraklio 4½hr 16 4 weekly Santorini Iraklio* 1¾hr 31 daily Thessaloniki Iraklio 31hr weekly *high speed services

236 Gamalaki 464 CENTRAL CRETE Iraklio CENTRAL CRETE Iraklio 465 CRETE CRETE ONLINE For information on Crete see the websites and GETTING AROUND A national highway skirts the north coast from Kissamos in the west to Agios Nikolaos in the east, and is slowly being extended east to Sitia. Buses link the major northern towns from Kissamos to Sitia. Less-frequent buses operate between the north-coast towns and resorts and the south coast, via the inland mountain villages. The south coast is spliced by mountains and gorges and many parts have no roads at all. Paleohora and the southwest coastal towns are connected to Hora Sfakion by boat. CENTRAL CRETE Central Crete is occupied by the Iraklio prefecture, named after the island s burgeoning major city and administrative capital, and the Rethymno prefecture, named after its lovely Venetian port town. Iraklio s major attractions are the Minoan sites of Knossos, Malia and Phaestos. The north coast east of Iraklio has been heavily exploited and, consequently, spoiled by package tourism, particularly around Hersonisos and Malia. Rethymno has resorts spanning the coast to the east and one significant resort to the south, but much of the southern coast is still relatively unspoilt. IRAKLIO ΗΡΑΚΛΕΙΟ pop 130,914 Crete s capital Iraklio (ee-rah-klee-oh), also called Heraklion, is a bustling modern city and the fifth largest in Greece. Hectic, densely populated Iraklio lacks the architectural charm of Hania and Rethymno but is nonetheless a dynamic city. It has a lively city centre, chic boutiques, quality restaurants and buzzing cafés. Continuing redevelopment of the waterfront and new roads are helping to make the city more attractive. The port sees a constant procession of ferries, while charter jets bring thousands of visitors to Crete each year via Iraklio. Nearby the Minoan ruins of Knossos are the major drawcard, while further inland bucolic vistas of hillsides, full of olive trees and vines, predominate in what is Crete s prime wine-producing region. History The Arabs who ruled Crete from AD 824 to AD 961 were the first to govern from the site of modern Iraklio. It was known then as El Khandak, after the moat that surrounded the town, and was reputedly the slave-trade capital of the eastern Mediterranean. El Khandak became Khandakos after Byzantine troops finally dislodged the Arabs, and then Candia under the Venetians who ruled the island for more than 400 years. While the Turks quickly overran the Venetian defences at Hania and Rethymno, Candia s fortifications withstood a 21-year siege before finally surrendering in Hania became the capital of independent Crete at the end of Turkish rule in 1898, and Candia was renamed Iraklio. Because of its central location, Iraklio became a commercial centre, and resumed its position as the island s administrative centre in The city suffered badly in WWII, when most of the old Venetian and Turkish town was destroyed by bombing. Orientation Iraklio has two main squares. Venizelou, better known as the Lion Square because of its famous landmark Morosini Fountain, is in the heart of the city, while the sprawling Eleftherias overlooks the harbour. The pedestrianised streets leading off the Lion Fountain, from Handakos and around Dedalou and Korai are the hub of the city s lively café scene. The ferry port is 500m to the east of the old port. Iraklio s airport is 5km east of the city centre. Information BOOKSHOPS Planet International Bookshop (% ; Handakos 73) Excellent selection of literature, history and travel books, including most books recommended in this guide. Road Editions (% ; Handakos 29) A specialist travel bookshop with a great selection of maps and guidebooks. EMERGENCY Tourist Police (% ; Dikeosynis 10; h7am-10pm) IRAKLIO INFORMATION Apollonia Hospital... 1 B5 EOT... 2 D4 In Spot Internet... 3 C4 Inter Laundry... 4 D3 Laundry Perfect... 5 C3 Laundry Washsalon... 6 B3 National Bank of Greece... 7 C3 Planet International Bookshop... 8 B3 Post Office... 9 C4 Road Editions B3 Skoutelis Travel C3 Tourist Office...(see 60) Tourist Police C4 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Agios Markos Basilica C4 Agios Minas Cathedral B4 SEA OF CRETE To Big Fish (500m); Desire (500m) Nearhou El Greco 31 Park Venizelou To Hania Gate (300m); Bus Station B (500m); University Hospital 41 3 EATING at Voutes (5km); Rethymno (85km); Brilliant...(see 37) Hania (142km) 49 Fyllo...Sofies B4 12 Giakoumis Taverna C4 42 I Avli tou Defkaliona B Ippokambos Ouzeri C2 Koupes C Loukoulos C4 O Vrakas C2 Parasies B3 Peri Orexeos C4 Port Garden Café D3 Prassein Aloga B3 Terzakis C3 17 Kornarou Skordilon Sfakion Handakos 1878 ENTERTAINMENT Café Santan C4 Guernica B3 Manos Hatzidakis Theatre B6 Nikos Katantzakis Open Air Theatre C6 Pagopiion C3 Take Five C3 TRANSPORT Aegean Airlines D5 Bus Station A D3 Buses to Airport D4 Buses to Knossos C3 Buses to Knossos & Airport D3 Loggeta Cars B3 Long-Distance Taxis D4 Motor Club C2 Olympic Airlines C3 Sun Rise C3 Grevenon Hortatson Psarmilingon Kalolerinou Monis Odigitrias Agiou Mina Archaeological Museum of Iraklio D4 Battle of Crete Museum D4 Bembo Fountain C5 Church of Agios Titos C3 Cretan Adventures C4 Georgiades Park D5 Historical Museum of Crete B3 Koules Venetian Fortress D2 Morosini Fountain B4 Mountaineering & Skiing Club of Iraklio (EOS) C4 Municipal Art Gallery C4 Museum of Religious Art B4 Natural History Museum A3 Venetian Arsenal D3 Venetian Loggia C3 Sofokli Venizelou Paleologou Katehaki Mousourou Theotokopoulou 36 Koroncou Vikela Nikolaou Plastira Georgiadou Vyronos Evans 25 Avgoustou Dedalou 56 Old Harbour 18 Anglon Perdikari Koraï Dikeosynis Koziri Epimenidou Agiou Titou Miliara Zogratou Averof Kyprou m miles SLEEPING Atrion B3 Hellas Rent Rooms B3 Hotel Lena B3 Hotel Rea B3 Irini Hotel C3 Kastro Hotel B3 Kronos Hotel B2 Lato Hotel D3 Marin Hotel D3 Megaron D3 Mirabello Hotel B Eleftherias Daskalogianni Pefiados Ldomeneos Malikouti Xanthoudidou Harilaou Trikoupi Kastrinaki Quay Ygias 16 Lkarou To Natural History Museum; Knossos (5km); Boutari Winery (7.5km); Arhanes (14km); Houdetsi (20km) Doukos Beaufort 20 New Harbour To Ferries to Piraeus (200m); Cretaquarium (15km); Gournes (15km); Hersonisos (26km); Agios Nikolaos (67km) 50 Anthemiou Dimokratias 60 To Airport (5km) 59 CRETE

237 466 CENTRAL CRETE Iraklio CENTRAL CRETE Iraklio 467 CRETE INTERNET ACCESS In Spot Internet Cafe (% ; Koraï 6; per hr 2.40; night rate midnight-noon 1.20; h24hr) High-speed access; printers, burners and PC games. INTERNET RESOURCES Useful information and resources. LAUNDRY Most laundries charge 6 for wash and dry, and offer dry cleaning. Inter Laundry (% ; Mirabelou 25; h9am-9pm) Laundry Perfect (% ; Idomeneos & Malikouti 32; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat) LEFT LUGGAGE Bus Station A Left-Luggage Office (% ; per day 2; h6.30am-8pm) Iraklio Airport Luggage Service (% ; per day from ; h24hr) Near the local bus stop at the airport. Laundry Washsalon (% ; Handakos 18; per day 3) MEDICAL SERVICES Apollonia Hospital (% ; Mousourou) Inside the old walls. University Hospital (% ) At Voutes, 5km south of Iraklio, it s the city s best-equipped medical facility. MONEY Most banks and ATMs are on 25 Avgoustou. National Bank of Greece (25 Avgoustou 35) Has a 24-hour exchange machine. POST Post office (% ; Daskalogianni; h7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-2pm Sat) TOURIST INFORMATION EOT (Greek National Tourism Organisation; % ; Xanthoudidou 1; h8.30am-8.30pm Apr-Oct, 8.30am- 3pm Nov-Mar) is opposite the archaeological museum. TRAVEL AGENCIES Skoutelis Travel (% ; 25 Avgoustou 24) Helpful agent that can make airline and ferry bookings, arrange excursions, accommodation and car hire and has useful ferry information online. Sights ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM OF IRAKLIO This outstanding archaeological museum (% ; Xanthoudidou 2 (temp entry from Hatzidakis); admission 4, incl Knossos 10; h1-7.30pm Mon, 8am-7.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 8am-3pm Tue-Sun, noon-3pm Mon late Oct early Apr) is second in size and importance only to the National Archaeological Museum in Athens because of its unique and extensive Minoan collection. The museum was undergoing a major 21 million restoration, with the revamped museum expected to open in In the meantime, highlights of the collection are on display in a compact temporary exhibition being housed in another annexe on the site. The musuem s collection covers Cretan civilization from Neolithic times until the Roman empire and includes pottery, jewellery, figurines and sarcophagi, as well as some famous frescoes, mostly from Knossos and Agia Triada. All testify to the remarkable imagination and advanced skills of the Minoans. While the temporary exhibition only includes 400 of the 15,000 artefacts that had been on display in the museum, it is presented to international museum standards and presents the key masterpieces of the collection. Among the highlights are the famous Minoan frescoes from Knossos, including the Procession fresco, the Griffin Fresco (from the Throne Room), the Dolphin Fresco (from the Queen s Room) and the amazing Bull-Leaping Fresco, which depicts a seemingly doublejointed acrobat somersaulting on the back of a charging bull. Other frescoes include the lovely, recently restored Prince of the Lilies, as well as two frescoes for the new Palace period the priestess archaeologists have dubbed La Parisienne and the Saffron Gatherer. Also on display from the palace at Knossos are Linear A and B tablets (the latter have been translated as household or business accounts), an ivory statue of a bull leaper and some exquisite gold seals. From the Middle Minoan period, the most striking piece is the 20cm black-stone Bull s Head, which was a libation vessel. The bull has a fine head of curls, from which sprout horns of gold. The eyes of painted crystal are extremely lifelike. Other fascinating exhibits from this period include the tiny, glazed colour reliefs of Minoan houses from Knossos, called the town mosaic. Finds from a shrine at Knossos include fine figurines of a bare-breasted snake goddess. Among the treasures of Minoan jewellery is the beautiful, fine gold bee pendant found at Malia depicting two bees dropping honey into a comb. The prized find from Phaestos is the fascinating Phaestos Disk, a 16cm circular clay tablet inscribed with pictographic symbols that have never been deciphered. The famous elaborate Kamares pottery, named after the sacred cave of Kamares where the vases were first discovered is also on display, including a superbly decorated vase from Phaestos with white sculpted flowers. Finds from the palace at Zakros include the gorgeous crystal rhyton vase that was found in over 300 pieces and which was painstakingly put back together again, as well as many vessels decorated with floral and marine designs. The most famous and spectacular of the Minoan sarcophagi is the sarcophagus from Agia Triada. This stone coffin, painted with floral and abstract designs and ritual scenes, is regarded as one of the supreme examples of Minoan art. Other significant pieces from Agia Triada include three celebrated vases. The Harvester Vase, of which only the top part remains, depicts a light-hearted scene of young farm workers returning from olive picking. The Boxer Vase shows Minoans indulging in two of their favourite pastimes wrestling and bullgrappling. The Chieftain Cup depicts a more cryptic scene: a chief holding a staff and three men carrying animal skins. Finds from Minoan cemeteries include two small clay models of groups of figures that were found in a tholos (tomb shaped like a beehive). One depicts four male dancers in a circle, their arms around each other s shoulders. The dancers may have been participating in a funeral ritual. The other shows two groups of three figures in a room flanked by two columns, with two large seated figures being offered libations by a smaller figure. It is not known whether the large figures represent gods or departed mortals. Another highlight providing an insight into Minoan life is the elaborate gaming board decorated with ivory, crystal, glass, gold and silver, from the New Palace period at Knossos. HISTORICAL MUSEUM OF CRETE A fascinating collection from Crete s more recent past is presented at the excellent Historical Museum (% ; Sofokli Venizelou; admission 5; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, summer; 9am-3pm Mon-Sat winter). The ground floor covers the period from Byzantine to Turkish rule, displaying plans, charts, photographs, ceramics and maps. On the 1st floor are the only two El Greco paintings in Crete View of Mt Sinai and the Monastery of St Catherine (1570) and the tiny recent addition, Baptism of Christ. Other rooms contain fragments of 13th- and 14th-century frescoes, coins, jewellery, liturgical ornaments and vestments, and medieval pottery. Upstairs there is a reconstruction of the library of author Nikos Kazantzakis, a Battle of Crete section and an outstanding folklore collection. NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM Established by the University of Crete, this leading Natural History Museum (% ; Leoforos Venizelou; adult/child 3, adults accompanying children free; h10am-2pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun), has relocated to impressive new five-level premises in the restored former electricity building on the waterfront. Only two wings had opened at the time of research, including an impressive interactive discovery centre for kids, compete with labs and excavation projects. Apart from the broader evolution of humankind, it explores the flora and fauna of Crete, the island s ecosystem and habitats, and its caves, coastline and mountains, as well as Minoan life. OTHER ATTRACTIONS Iraklio burst out of its city walls long ago, but these massive fortifications, with seven bastions and four gates, are still very conspicuous, dwarfing the concrete structures of the 20th century. Venetians built the defences between 1462 and You can follow the walls around the heart of the city for views of Iraklio s neighbourhoods, although it is not a particularly scenic city. The 16th-century Koules Venetian fortress (Iraklio Harbour; admission 2; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun), at the end of the Old Harbour s jetty, was called Rocca al Mare under the Venetians. It stopped the Turks for 22 years and then became a Turkish prison for Cretan rebels. The exterior is most impressive with reliefs of the Lion of St Mark. The interior has CRETE

238 468 CENTRAL CRETE Iraklio Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at CENTRAL CRETE Iraklio 469 CRETE 26 overly restored rooms and good views from the top. The ground-level rooms are used as art galleries, while music and theatrical events are held in the upper level. The vaulted arcades of the Venetian Arsenal are opposite the fortress. Several other notable vestiges from Venetian times survive. Most famous is Morosini Fountain (Lion Fountain) on Venizelou, which spurts water from four lions into eight ornate marble troughs. Built in 1628, the fountain was commissioned by Francesco Morosini while he was governor of Crete. Its centrepiece marble statue of Poseidon with his trident was destroyed during the Turkish occupation. Opposite is the three-aisled 13th-century Agios Markos Basilica. It has been reconstructed many times and is now the Municipal Art Gallery (% ; 25 Avgoustou; admission free; h9am-1.30pm & 6-9pm Mon-Fri; 9am-1pm Sat). A little north is the attractively reconstructed 17th-century Venetian Loggia. It was a Venetian version of a gentleman s club; the male aristocracy came here to drink and gossip. It is now the Town Hall. The delightful Bembo Fountain, at the southern end of 1866, was built by the Venetians in the 16th century. The ornate hexagonal edifice next to the fountain was a pump house added by the Turks, and now functions as a pleasant kafeneio (coffee house). The Museum of Religious Art (% ; Monis Odigitrias; admission 2; h9.30am-7.30pm Mon- Sat Apr-Oct; 9.30am-3.30pm winter), is housed in the former Church of Agia Ekaterini next to Agios Minas Cathedral. It has an impressive collection of icons, frescoes and elaborate ecclesiastical vestments, including six icons by Mihail Damaskinos, the mentor of El Greco. The Church of Agios Titos (Agiou Titou) was constructed after the liberation of Crete in AD 961 and was converted to a Catholic church and then a mosque. It has been rebuilt twice after being destroyed by fire and then an earthquake. The Battle of Crete Museum (% ; cnr Doukos Beaufort & Hatzidaki; admission free; h8am-3pm) chronicles this historic battle. Activities Cretan Adventures (% ; adventures.gr; Evans 10, upstairs) is a well-regarded local company run by two intrepid brothers, who can organise hiking and trekking tours, mountain biking, and a range of specialist and extreme activities. The Mountaineering & Skiing Club of Iraklio (EOS; % ; Dikeosynis 53; % pm) arranges mountain climbing, cross-country walking and skiing excursions across the island most weekends. Iraklio for Children The Natural History Museum ( p467 ) is a safe bet for kids, as is an excursion to the Cretaquarium (see p471 ). If the kids are museumed out, the waterfront Port Garden Café (% ; Paraliaki Leoforo; %7am-late) opposite the Megaron hotel has indoor and shady outdoor play areas, including jumping castles and swings. You can also escape the heat and let the kids run around in Georgiades Park, where there is a pleasant shady café. Tours Iraklio s myriad travel agents run coach tours the length and breadth of Crete. Try the helpful Skoutelis Travel (% ; 25 Avgoustou 24). Festivals & Events Iraklio s Summer Arts Festival takes place at the Nikos Kazantzakis Open Air Theatre (% ; Jesus Bastion; box office h9am-2.30pm & pm), near the moat of the Venetian walls, the nearby Manos Hatzidakis theatre and at the Koules fortress. Check for the programme or ask at the Municipal Cultural Office (% ; Androgeiou 2; h8am- 4pm) behind the Youth Centre café. Sleeping Iraklio s central accommodation is weighted towards business travellers. Most hotels were upgraded in the lead up to the 2004 Olympics. BUDGET Hellas Rent Rooms (% ; fax ; Handakos 24; dm/d/tr without bathroom 10.50/30/42) This friendly and relaxed defacto youth hostel has a reception area and rooftop bar three flights up that s open all day. The rooms have fans and a wash basin and the shared bathrooms are basic but clean, and all rooms have balconies. You can have breakfast on the terrace from Mirabello Hotel (% ; -hotel.gr; Theotokopoulou 20; s/d without bathroom 35/44, d with bathroom 65; a) One of Iraklio s most pleasant budget hotels, the relaxed Mirabello is on a quiet street in the centre. The rooms are immaculate, though some are a little cramped, with TV, phones, balconies and upgraded bathrooms. Some rooms share single-sex bathrooms. Hotel Rea (% ; Kalimeraki 1; d with/without bathroom 44/34) Popular with a wide range of backpackers, the family-run Rea has an easy, friendly atmosphere. Rooms all have fans and sinks, although some bathrooms are shared. There s a small, basic communal kitchen and it has family rooms ( 60). Hotel Lena (% ; Lahana 10; s/d with bathroom 45/60, without bathroom 35/45; a) On a quiet street, friendly Hotel Lena has 16 comfortable, airy rooms with phone, TV, fans and double-glazed windows. Most have private bathrooms but even the communal bathrooms are pleasant and upgraded. MIDRANGE Kronos Hotel (% ; Sofokli Venizelou 2; s/d 48/60; ai) This wellmaintained older waterfront hotel has comfortable rooms with double-glazed windows and balconies, phone and TV, and most have a fridge. It is one of the better-value two-star hotels in town. Ask for one of the rooms with sea views. Kastro Hotel (% ; Theotokopoulou 22; s incl breakfast from 50, d & tr incl breakfast 75-90; ai) A refurbished, modern, cheery B-class hotel in the back streets, the Kastro is an excellent choice. The large rooms have fridges, TV, hairdryers, phones and ISDN internet connectivity. Irini Hotel (% ; Idomeneos 4; s/d incl breakfast 71/100; a) Close to the old harbour, Irini is a midsized establishment with 59 large, airy rooms with TV, radio and telephone, and plants and flowers on the balconies. You can get a lower rate if you skip breakfast. Marin Hotel (% ; Doukos Beaufort 12; s incl breakfast 75, d incl breakfast ; ai) The front rooms of this refurbished hotel have great views of the harbour and fortress and some have big balconies. Rooms are attractive and well-appointed, and staff are attentive. Atrion (% ; Hronaki 9; s/d incl breakfast 95/110; a) Fully refurbished in 2003, this is now one of the city s more pleasant hotels. Rooms are tastefully decked out in neutral tones, with TV, fridge, hairdryers and data ports. The top rooms have sea views and small balconies. TOP END Lato Hotel (% ; Epimenidou 15; s/d 100/127, ste from 175; ai) This refurbished boutique hotel overlooking the fortress is one of Iraklio s prime hotels, with a smart contemporary design. Most rooms have spectacular views, especially the spacious suites, as does the rooftop restaurant and bar. There s a funky new fine-dining restaurant downstairs, Brilliant (% ). Megaron (% ; Doukos Beaufort 9; s/d 190/215, ste from 247; as) This once-derelict historic building on the harbour has been stunningly transformed with top design and fittings throughout. There are comfortable beds, Jacuzzis in the VIP suites and plasma-screen TVs. The rooftop restaurant and bar have fine harbour views, along with a unique glass-sided pool. Eating Iraklio has some excellent restaurants to suit all tastes and pockets. Many restaurants are closed on Sunday. BUDGET Fyllo Sofies (% ; Venizelou 33; bougatsa 2.20; h5am-late) Next to the Lion Fountain, this place does a roaring morning trade when both tourists off the early boats and the post-club crowd head straight for a delicious bougatsa pastry. Giakoumis Taverna (% ; Theodosaki 5-8; mayirefta 4-6; hclosed Sun) There are tavernas clustered around the 1866 market side streets and this is one of the favourites. There s a full menu of Cretan specialities and vegetarian options. Turnover is heavy, which means that the dishes are fresh, while you can see the meat being prepared for the grill. O Vrakas (% ; 18 Anglon; seafood mezedhes ) This small street-side ouzerie (place which serves ouzo and light snacks) grills fresh fish alfresco in front of diners. It s unassuming and the menu is limited, but still very popular with locals. Grilled octopus is a good choice. CRETE

239 470 CENTRAL CRETE Iraklio CENTRAL CRETE Around Iraklio 471 CRETE Ippokambos Ouzerie (% ; Sofokli Venizelou 3; seafood mezedhes ) Many locals come to this taverna at the edge of the tourist-driven waterfront dining strip. Take a peek inside at the fresh trays and pots of specialities such such as baked cuttlefish. MIDRANGE Koupes (% ; Agiou Titou 22; mezedhes ) One of a row of rakadika (Cretan ouzeries) along this pedestrian strip popular with students, this place opposite the school has a good range of mezedhes. Terzakis (% ; Marineli 17; mezedhes ) On a small square opposite the Agios Dimitrios church, this excellent ouzerie has a good range of mezedhes, mayirefta and grills. Try the sea urchin salad or, if you are really game to try a local speciality, ask if they have unmentionables : ameletita (fried sheep testicles). I Avli tou Defkaliona (% ; Prevelaki 10; meat dishes ; hdinner) This traditional taverna with wicker chairs, checked tablecloths and plastic grapevines is known for its delicious food. Peri Orexeos (% ; Koraï 10; mains 7-8) Right on the busy Koraï pedestrian strip, this restaurant offers excellent modern Greek food with creative takes like kataïfiwrapped creamy chicken, huge salads, and solid Cretan cuisine. There s also a wicked chocolate dessert. Also recommended is Parasies (% ; Istorikou Mouseiou; grills 5-10) in the corner of the square next to the Historical Museum. TOP END Prassein Aloga (% ; cnr Handakos & Kydonias 21; mains 12-18) This little rustic-style café/ restaurant has excellent innovative Mediterranean food from an ever-changing menu, including dishes based on ancient Greek cuisine, such as pork medallions with dried fruit on wild rice. Loukoulos (% ; Korai 5; mains 15-32) Loukoulos offers fine dining in an elegant setting, with luscious Mediterranean specialities served on fine china and accompanied by soft classical music. Entertainment Pagopiion (% ; Agiou Titou; h10amlate) This former ice factory is the most original café/bar/restaurant on the island. Guernica (% ; Apokoronou Kritis 2; h10am-late) A great combination of traditional décor and contemporary music makes this one of Iraklio s hippest bar/cafés. The rambling old building has a delightful terrace garden. Take Five (% ; Akroleondos 7; h10amlate) An old favourite on El Greco Park, this lively bar has been swamped by new louder arrivals on this recently pedestrianised strip. Café Santan (% ; Korai 13) This oriental café reflects the latest trend, with shishas, sofas and belly dancing from 11pm. There are big dance clubs along Leoforos Ikarou, just down from Eleftherias and along Epimendou, though many close in summer. A new club and entertainment precinct has emerged along the revitalised waterfront to the west of the port, including some flashy open-air clubs. The most popular are Big Fish (% ;Makariou 17 & Venizelou; hall day), housed in a stunningly restored old stone building, and Desire, next door. Getting There & Away AIR Aegean Airlines ( City (% ; fax ; Leoforos Dimokratias 11); Airport office (% ) Olympic Airlines ( City (% ; 25 Avgoustou 27; h8am-3pm Mon- Fri); Airport office (% , ) Domestic Olympic and Aegean each have at least five flights daily to Athens (from 75) from Iraklio s Nikos Kazantzakis airport, as well as daily flights to Thessaloniki (from 106). Olympic also flies to Rhodes (from 89). Both airlines have regular special fare deals, although rarely in the summer peak season. Aegean s earlybird internet bookings are excellent value but dates cannot be changed. If you are flying lastminute, Olympic is normally cheaper. The newcomer Sky Express (% ; has daily flights from Iraklio to Rhodes and Santorini and up to three flights a week to Mytilini, Kos, Samos, Ikaria (from 79), though baggage is restricted to 12.5kg (they are small jets). International Iraklio has lots of charter flights from all over Europe, with flights to London available from 80 to 150. Skoutelis Travel ( p466 ) is a good place to ask. GB Airways ( also has weekly scheduled flights from Gatwick to Iraklio. Aegean Airlines has direct scheduled flights from Iraklio to Milan, Rome and other European cities. BUS Iraklio has two intercity bus stations. Bus Station A (% ; which serves eastern and western Crete (including Knossos), is on the waterfront near the quay, though there were plans to relocate it. Bus Station B, (% ) just beyond Hania Gate, west of the city centre, serves Phaestos, Agia Galini and Matala. Services reduce on weekends. The airport bus stops in the centre of town at Eleftherias. Buses from Bus Station A Destination Duration Fare Frequency Agia Pelagia 45 min daily Agios Nikolaos 1½ hr 6.20 half-hourly Arhanes 30 min 1.60 hourly Hania 3 hr daily Hersonisos/Malia 45 min 3.50 half-hourly Ierapetra 2½ hr daily Knossos 20 min hourly Lasithi Plateau 2 hr daily Milatos 1½ hr daily Rethymno 1¾ hr daily Sitia 3½ hr daily Buses from Bus Station B Destination Duration Fare Frequency Agia Galini 2 hr daily Anogia 1 hr daily Matala 2½ hr daily Phaestos 1½ hr daily FERRY Minoan Lines (% , ; operates ferries each way between Iraklio and Piraeus (seven hours). The ferries depart from both Piraeus and Iraklio at 10pm. Fares start at 29 for deck class and 54 for cabins. The Minoan Lines high-speed boats, the F/B Festos Palace and F/B Knossos Palace, are much more modern and comfortable than their ANEK rivals. In summer, Minoan runs extra 6½-hour services (deck class 37) on weekends and some weekdays. This is the most convenient way to get to/from Iraklio. GA Ferries (% ; runs four ferries weekly from Iraklio to Thessaloniki ( 46.50, 31 hours) via Santorini ( 16, 4½ hours), Ios ( 18.80, 6½ hours) and Paros ( 24.30, 10 hours), stopping at several other islands en route. GA also has a weekly ferry from Iraklio (leaving Fri 5pm) to Rhodes ( 26.40, cabin 39.20, 14½ hours,) via Kassos ( 19.40, six hours,) and Karpathos ( 17.40, eight hours). Hellenic Seaways ( has a daily high-speed service to Santorini ( 31, 1¾ hours), Ios ( 36.70, 2½ hours), Paros 47.80, 3¼ hours), Naxos ( 41.70, 4¼ hours) and Mykonos ( 48.70, 4¾ hours). ANEK Lines (% ; has daily ferries between Iraklio and Piraeus ( 32, cabin 58, eight hours) at 8.30pm. LANE Lines (% ; leaves Iraklio for Sitia, Kasos ( 19.50, six hours), Karpathos ( 19.50, eight hours), Diafani ( 17.90, nine hours), Halki ( 18.20, 11 hours) and Rhodes ( 27, 14 hours). Iraklio Port Authority (% ) at the port has ferry schedule information. Getting Around Bus 1 goes to and from the airport every 15 minutes between 6am and 1am. The bus terminal is near the Astoria Capsis Hotel on Eleftherias. A taxi to the airport costs around 7 to 10. You can call Ikarus Radio Taxi (% ) to arrange a ride. Long-Distance Taxis (% ) from Eleftherias, outside the Astoria Capsis Hotel and Bus Station B, can take you to all parts of Crete. Sample fares include Agios Nikolaos ( 60), Rethymno ( 70) and Hania ( 120). The airport has a full range of carrental companies but you ll likely get the best deal from local outlets. Try: Sun Rise (% ; 25 Avgoustou 46) Just off the pedestrian street. Loggetta Cars (% ; 25 Avgoustou 20) Motor Club (% ; 18 Anglon) Opposite the fortress, has the biggest selection of bikes. AROUND IRAKLIO Cretaquarium The massive Cretaquarium (% ; adult/child 8/6, free admission kids under 4; h9am-9pm May mid-oct, 10am-5.30pm Oct-Apr) at Gournes, 15km east of Iraklio, is the larg- CRETE

240 472 CENTRAL CRETE Knossos CENTRAL CRETE Knossos 473 CRETE WINE COUNTRY Just south of Iraklio and Knossos is the wine-producing area of Peza, which produces about 70 percent of Crete s wine. The Pezas Union of local producers (% ; admission free h9am-4pm Mon-Sat) have tastings and videos, as well as a mini-museum. The stateof-the-art Boutari Winery (% ; Skalani; tour & tasting 4.50; h10am-6pm), about 8km from Iraklio, is set on a hill in the middle of the Fantaxometoho estate and has a stunning tasting room and showroom overlooking the vineyard. Tours include a quirky futuristic video on Crete in an impressive cellar cinema where you watch the hi-tech show with headphones and a glass of wine. est aquarium in the Eastern Mediterranean region. There are several large tanks with an amazing display of marine life, though it is light on really big fish. There are some interactive multimedia features and displays in several languages. The north-coast buses ( 1.60, 30 mins) can drop you on the main road; from there it s a 10-minute walk. The turn-off to Kato Gouves is well signposted on the new national road. Arhanes & Houdetsi The village of Arhanes, 14km south of Iraklio, once boasted one of the island s great Minoan palaces. Today only scraps of the palace (signposted from the main road) remain, but Arhanes is a vibrant village with meticulously restored old houses and pleasant squares with excellent tavernas. It s considered a model of rural town revival. The Archaeological Museum of Arhanes (% ; admission free; h8.30am-3pm Wed-Mon) has several interesting finds from regional archaeological excavations. The exhibits include larnakes (coffins) and musical instruments from Fourni and an ornamental dagger from the Anemospilia temple. You can find visitor information at Neraidospilios (% ; s/apt 40-70; as) These superbly-appointed spacious studios and apartments on the outskirts of the village overlooking the mountains are run by the brothers at the Diahroniko café in town. South of Arhanes, in the otherwise unremarkable village of Houdetsi, the much-lauded musician Ross Daly has established a museum of musical instruments (% ; music.gr; admission 3; h10am-8pm Mar-Oct) displaying his extensive collection of mostly stringed instruments. The restored stone manor is the base for the Labyrinth Musical Workshop which each summer holds concerts with leading international musicians in the lovely grounds. There are buses hourly from Iraklio to Arhanes ( 1.40, ½ hour) and three buses daily to Houdetsi ( 2.20, ¾ hour). KNOSSOS ΚΝΩΣΟΣ Knossos (k-nos-os), 5km from Iraklio, was the capital of Minoan Crete and the Palace of Knossos (% ; admission 6; h8am-7pm Jun- Oct, 8am-3pm Nov-May) is the island s major tourist attraction. The ruins of Knossos, home of the mythical Minotaur kept by King Minos, were uncovered in the early 1900s by the British archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans. Heinrich Schliemann, who had uncovered the ancient cities of Troy and Mycenae, had had his eye on the spot but was unable to strike a deal with the landowner. Evans spent 35 years and 250,000 of his own money excavating and reconstructing parts of the palace. Some archaeologists have disparaged Evans controversial reconstruction, believing he sacrificed accuracy to his overly vivid imagination. However, most nonexperts agree that Sir Arthur did a good job and the reconstructions allow you to visualise what a Minoan palace looked like. You will need to spend some time at Knossos to explore it thoroughly. History The first palace at Knossos was built around 1900 BC. In 1700 BC it was destroyed by an earthquake and rebuilt to a grander and more sophisticated design. It is this palace that Evans reconstructed. It was partially destroyed again sometime between 1500 and 1450 BC. It was inhabited for another 50 years before it was devastated once and for all by fire. The city of Knossos consisted of an immense palace, residences of officials and KNOSSOS 0 50 m Royal Road 6 West (Main) Entrance South House North Entrance South Entrance Central Court priests, the homes of ordinary people, and burial grounds. The palace comprised royal domestic quarters, public reception rooms, shrines, workshops, treasuries and storerooms, all built around a central court. Like all Minoan palaces, it also doubled as a city hall, accommodating all the bureaucracy. Until 1997 it was possible to enter the royal apartments, but the area was cordoned off before it disappeared altogether under the continual pounding of tourists feet. Extensive repairs are under way but it is unlikely to open to the public again. Exploring the Site Thanks to Evans reconstruction, the most significant parts of the complex are instantly recognisable (if not instantly found), such as his reconstructed columns, most painted deep brown-red with gold-trimmed black capitals. Like all Minoan columns, they taper at the bottom. It is not only the vibrant frescoes and mighty columns that impress at Knossos. Notice the little details which are evidence of a highly sophisticated society the drainage East Entrance South-East House 1 Theatral Area 2 Lustral Basin 3 Bull Fresco 4 Giant Pithoi 5 Throne Room 6 Western Court 7 Corridor of the Procession Fresco 8 Grand Staircase 9 Hall of the Double Axes 10 Queen's Megaron 11 Water Closet 12 Priest King Fresco 13 Piano Nobile system, the placement of light wells, and the relationship of rooms to passages, porches, light wells and verandas, which kept rooms cool in summer and warm in winter. The usual entrance to the palace complex is across the Western Court and along the Corridor of the Procession Fresco. The fresco depicted a long line of people carrying gifts to present to the king; unfortunately only fragments remain. A copy of one of these fragments, called the Priest King Fresco, can be seen to the south of the Central Court. If you leave the Corridor of the Procession Fresco and walk straight ahead to enter the site from the northern end, you will come to the Theatral Area, a series of steps that could have been a theatre or the place where people gathered to welcome important visitors arriving by the Royal Road. The Royal Road leads off to the west. The road, Europe s first (Knossos has lots of firsts), was flanked by workshops and the houses of ordinary people. The Lustral Basin is also in this area. Evans speculated that this was where the Minoans performed a ritual cleansing before religious ceremonies. CRETE

241 474 CENTRAL CRETE Malia CENTRAL CRETE Gortyna 475 CRETE Entering the Central Court from the north, you pass the relief Bull Fresco which depicts a charging bull. Relief frescoes were made by moulding wet plaster and then painting it while still wet. Also in the northern section of the palace are the Giant Pithoi, large ceramic jars used for storing olive oil, wine and grain. Evans found over 100 pithoi at Knossos, some 2m high. The ropes used to move them inspired the raised patterns decorating the jars. Once you have reached the Central Court, which in Minoan times was surrounded by the high walls of the palace, you can begin exploring the most important rooms of the complex. From the northern end of the west side of the Central Court, steps lead down to the Throne Room. This room is fenced off but you can still get a pretty good view of it. The centrepiece, a simple, beautifully proportioned throne, is flanked by the Griffin Fresco. (Griffins were mythical beasts regarded as sacred by the Minoans.) The room is thought to have been a shrine, and the throne the seat of a high priestess, rather than a king. The Minoans did not worship their deities in great temples but in small shrines, and each palace had several. On the first floor of the west side of the palace is the section Evans called the Piano Nobile, for he believed the reception and state rooms were here. A room at the northern end of this floor displays copies of some of the frescoes found at Knossos. Returning to the Central Court, the impressive Grand Staircase leads from the middle of the eastern side of the palace to the royal apartments, which Evans called the Domestic Quarter. This section of the site is now cordoned off and is off limits to visitors. Within the royal apartments is the Hall of the Double Axes. This was the king s megaron, a spacious double room in which the ruler both slept and carried out certain court duties. The room had a light well at one end and a balcony at the other to ensure air circulation. The room takes its name from the double axe marks on its light well, the sacred symbol of the Minoans. A passage leads from the Hall of the Double Axes to the Queen s Megaron. Above the door is a copy of the Dolphin Fresco, one of the most exquisite Minoan artworks, and a blue floral design decorates the portal. Next to this room is the queen s bathroom, complete with terracotta bathtub and water closet, touted as the first ever to work on the flush principle; water was poured down by hand. Getting There & Away Regular buses run from Iraklio (see p471 ) from the bus station and from outside the Lion Fountain. From the coastal road there are occasional signs directing you to Knossos. Beware of touts trying to usher you into private paid-parking areas. There are several free car parks closer to the site. MALIA ΜΑΛΙΑ The Minoan Palace of Malia (% ; admission 4; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), 3km east of the resort of Malia, is the only cultural diversion on the northern stretch of coast east of Iraklio, which otherwise has surrendered lock, stock and barrel to the package-tourist industry. Malia is smaller than Knossos and Phaestos and consisted of a palace complex and a town built on a flat, fertile plain, not on a hill. Entrance to the ruins is from the West Court. At the extreme southern end of this court there are eight circular pits which archaeologists think were used to store grain. To the east of the pits is the main entrance to the palace, which leads to the southern end of the Central Court. At the southwest corner of this court you will find the Kernos Stone, a disc with 34 holes around its edge. Archaeologists still don t know what it was used for. The Central Staircase is at the north end of the west side of the palace. The Loggia, just north of the staircase, is where religious ceremonies took place. The exhibition hall has reconstructions of the site and interesting photos, including aerial shots. There is a good beach nearby. There are buses to Malia from Iraklio every 30 minutes ( 3.50, one hour). ZAROS ΖΑΡΟΣ pop 2215 About 46km southwest of Iraklio, Zaros is a refreshingly unspoilt village that s known for its spring water and bottling plant. Various excavations in the region indicate that the Minoans and the Romans settled here, lured by the abundant supply of fresh water. If you have your own wheels, the Byzantine monasteries and traditional villages tucked away in the hills are worth exploring. Moni Agiou Nikolaou, which is at the mouth of the verdant Rouvas Gorge, contains some 14th-century paintings. A few kilometres later, the Moni Agiou Andoniou Vrondisiou is noteworthy for its 15th-century Venetian fountain and early 14th-century frescoes. Just outside the village, the lovely shady park at Votomos makes a great picnic stop, with a small lake, excellent taverna and café I Limni (% ; trout per kg 22; h9am-late) and a children s playground. From the lake, there is a walking path to Moni Agiou Nikolaou monastery (900m) and Rouvas Gorge (2.5km). In the village, the charming Studios Keramos (%/fax ; s/d incl breakfast 30/35; a) is decorated with Cretan crafts, weaving and family heirlooms, antique beds and furniture. Owner Katerina is up early cooking up a copious traditional Cretan breakfast don t miss it. On the main street, the excellent taverna, Vengera (% ), is run by vivacious Vivi and her mother Irini who cook honest traditional Cretan food. There are two afternoon buses daily to Zaros from Iraklio ( 4.10, one hour). GORTYNA ΓΟΡΤΥΝΑ Conveniently, Crete s three other major archaeological sites lie close to each other forming a rough triangle some 50km south of Iraklio. It s best to visit them all together. Lying 46km southwest of Iraklio and 15km from Phaestos, on the plain of Mesara, is Gortyna (% ; admission 4; h8am-7.30pm, to 5pm winter), pronounced gor-tih-nah. It s a vast and wonderfully intriguing site with bits and pieces from various ages. The site was a settlement from Minoan to Christian times. In Roman times, Gortyna was the capital of the province of Cyrenaica. The most significant find at the site was the massive stone tablets inscribed with the Laws of Gortyna, dating from the 5th century BC and dealing with just about every imaginable offence. The tablets are on display at the site. The 6th-century Basilica is dedicated to Agios Titos, a protégé of St Paul and the first bishop of Crete. Other ruins at Gortyna include the 2nd-century-AD Praetorium, which was the residence of the governor of the province, a Nymphaeum, and the Temple of Pythian Apollo. The ruins are on both sides of the main Iraklio Phaestos road. PHAESTOS ΦΑΙΣΤΟΣ The Minoan site of Phaestos (% ; admission 4/2, incl Agia Triada 6; h8am-7.30pm Jun-Oct, 8am-5pm Nov-Apr), 63km from Iraklio, was the second-most-important palace-city in all of Minoan Crete. Of all the Minoan sites, Phaestos (fes-tos) has the most awe-inspiring location, with all-embracing views of the Mesara Plain and Mt Ida. The layout of the palace is identical to Knossos, with rooms arranged around a central court, though there has been no reconstruction. In contrast to Knossos, the palace at Phaestos has very few frescoes. It seems the palace walls were mostly covered with a layer of white gypsum. Like the other palatial-period complexes, there was an old palace here that was destroyed at the end of the Middle Minoan period. Unlike the other sites, parts of this old palace have been excavated and its ruins are partially superimposed upon the new palace. The entrance to the new palace is by the 15m-wide Grand Staircase. The stairs lead to the west side of the Central Court. The bestpreserved parts of the palace complex are the reception rooms and private apartments to the north of the Central Court; excavations continue here. This section was entered by an imposing portal with half columns at either side, the lower parts of which are still in situ. Unlike the Minoan freestanding columns, these do not taper at the base. The celebrated Phaestos disc was found in a building to the north of the palace. The disc is now in Iraklio s archaeological museum ( p466 ). Getting There & Away Eight buses a day head to Phaestos from Iraklio ( 5.70, 1½ hours), also stopping at Gortyna. There are also buses from Agia Galini ( 2.80 minutes, five daily) and Matala ( 1.60, 30 minutes, five daily). AGIA TRIADA ΑΓΙΑ ΤΡΙΑΔΑ Pronounced ah-yee-ah trih-ah-dha, the small Minoan site of Agia Triada (% ; admission 3, incl Phaestos 6; h10am-4.30pm summer, 8.30am-3pm winter), 3km west of Phaestos, was smaller than the other royal palaces but built to a similar design. This, and the opulence of the objects found at the site, indicate that it was a royal residence, possibly a summer palace of Phaestos rulers. To the north of the palace is a small town where remains CRETE

242 476 CENTRAL CRETE Matala Book accommodation online at CENTRAL CRETE Rethymno 477 CRETE of a stoa (long, colonnaded building) have been unearthed. Finds from the palace, now in Iraklio s archaeological museum, include a sarcophagus, two superlative frescoes and three vases: the Harvester Vase, Boxer Vase and Chieftain Cup. The road to Agia Triada takes off to the right, about 500m from Phaestos on the road to Matala. There is no public transport to the site. MATALA ΜΑΤΑΛΑ pop 100 Matala (ma-ta-la), on the coast 11km southwest of Phaestos, was once one of Crete s bestknown hippie hang-outs. When you see the dozens of eerie caves speckling the rock slab on the edge of the beach, you ll see why 60s hippies found them, like, groovy man, and turned them into a modern troglodyte city. The caves were originally Roman tombs cut out of the sandstone rock in the 1st century AD and have been used as dwellings for many centuries. Matala expanded to the point where much of its original appeal was lost and these days it is a struggling resort, though it still has its loyal returnees and is a popular stop for day-trippers and tour buses every summer. The beautiful sandy beach below the caves is one of Crete s best and the resort is a convenient base to visit Phaestos and Agia Triada. The caves are normally fenced off at night but there was no guard or entry charge at research time. Sleeping & Eating Fantastic Rooms to Rent (% , fax ; s/d/tr 20/25/25, d & tr with kitchen 30; a) Has been here since the hippie heydays, and has added a newer block at the back. The rooms are plain but comfortable, many with kitchenette, phone, kettle and fridge. Pension Andonios (% , fax ; d/tr 25/30) Run by the genial Antonis, this comfortable pension has attractively furnished rooms set around a lovely courtyard, many with kitchenette, and the top rooms have balconies. Hotel Zafiria (% , fax ; d incl breakfast 40; pas) The sprawling Zafiria has comfortable rooms with balconies, sea views and telephones and a new pool beneath the cliffs. Eating in Matala is hardly an experience in haute cuisine. Overlooking the beach, Lions (% ; specials 6-9) has been popular for many years and the food is better than average, with big trays of home-style dishes inside. It is also a good place for a drink, as it gets lively in the evening. Gianni s Taverna (% ; mains 5-7) is a no-frills place with good-value grills. Getting There & Away There are five buses daily between Iraklio and Matala ( 6.80, 2½ hours), and between Matala and Phaestos ( 1.60, 30 minutes). VORI ΒΩΡΟΙ pop 755 In the village of Vori, 4km east of Tymbaki past Phaestos, you will find the outstanding private Museum of Cretan Ethnology (% ; admission 3; h10am-6pm Apr-Oct, by appointment in winter % ). The modern museum provides a fascinating insight into traditional Cretan culture, with exhibits following themes such as rural life, war, customs, architecture, music, and the herbs, flora and fauna that form the basis of the Cretan diet. There are some beautiful weavings, furniture, woodcarvings and musical instruments. It s well signposted from the main road. RETHYMNO ΡΕΘΥΜΝΟ pop 27,868 Rethymno (reth-im-no) is Crete s third-largest town and one of the most picturesque, with a charming harbour and massive Venetian fortress. The delightful Venetian-Ottoman quarter is a maze of narrow streets, graceful wood-balconied houses and ornate Venetian monuments, with minarets adding a touch of the Orient. The city has a campus of the University of Crete, bringing a student population that keeps the town alive outside the tourist season. An added attraction is a beach right in town. The approaches to the town couldn t be less inviting. The modern town has sprawled out along the coast, dotted with big package hotels along the stretch on the sandy beach to the east. History The site of Rethymno has been occupied since Late Minoan times. In the 3rd and 4th centuries BC, the town was called Rithymna, an autonomous state of sufficient stature to issue its own coinage. A scarcity of references to the city in Roman and Byzantine times suggest it was of minor importance. The town thrived under the Venetians, who ruled from 1210 until 1645, when the Turks took over. Turkish forces ruled until 1897, when it was taken by Russia as part of the Great Powers occupation of Crete. Rethymno became an artistic and intellectual centre after the arrival of a large number of refugees from Constantinople in Orientation Rethymno is a fairly compact town with most of the major sights and places to stay and eat near the old Venetian harbour. The beach is on the eastern side, around from the Venetian harbour. If you arrive by bus, you will be dropped at the rather inconveniently located terminal at the western end of Igoumenou Gavriil, about 600m west of the Porto Guora (although this was due to relocate). If you arrive by ferry, the old quarter is at the end of the quay. Information BOOKSHOPS Ilias Spondidakis bookshop (% ; Souliou 43) Stocks novels in English, books about Greece, tapes of Greek music and has a small second-hand section. Xenos Typos (% ; Ethnikis AntistasIs 21) Stocks foreign press, guide books and maps. EMERGENCY Tourist police (% ; Delfini Bldg, Venizelou;h7am-2.30pm) In the same building as the municipal tourist office. INTERNET ACCESS Cybernet (Kallergi 44-46; per hr 3; h10am-5am) LAUNDRY Laundry Mat (% ; Tombazi 45; wash & dry 9; 8.30am-2pm & pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-2.15pm Sat) Next door to the youth hostel. LEFT LUGGAGE KTEL (% ; cnr Kefalogiannidon & Igoumenou Gavriil) The bus station stores luggage for 1.50 per day. MEDICAL SERVICES Rethymno Hospital (% ; Triandalydou 17; h24hr) MONEY Alpha Bank (Pavlou Koundouriotou 29) National Bank of Greece (Dimokratias) POST Post office (% ; Moatsou 21; h7am- 7pm Mon-Fri) TOURIST INFORMATION Municipal tourist office (% ; Delfini Bldg, Eleftheriou Venizelou; h8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8.30pm Sat & Sun Mar-Nov) TRAVEL AGENCIES Ellotia Tours (% ; Arkadiou 155; h9am-9pm Mar-Nov) Helpful office that handles boat and plane tickets, changes money, rents cars and motorcycles, and books excursions. Sights Rethymno s 16th-century fortress (fortezza; % ; Paleokastro Hill; admission 3.10; h8am- 8pm Jun-Oct) is the site of the city s ancient acropolis. Within its massive walls a great number of buildings once stood, of which only a church and a mosque survive intact. The ramparts offer good views, while the site has lots of ruins to explore. The small archaeological museum (% ; admission 3; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), near the entrance to the fortress, was once a prison. The exhibits are well labelled in English and contain Neolithic tools, Minoan pottery excavated from nearby tombs, Mycenaean figurines and a 1st-century-AD relief of Aphrodite, as well as an important coin collection. Rethymno s Historical & Folk Art Museum (% ; Vernardou 28-30; admission 3; h9.30am- 2.30pm Mon-Sat) gives an excellent overview of the area s rural lifestyle, with its collection of old clothes, baskets, weavings and farm tools whose purpose would remain obscure without the useful explanatory labels on the exhibits. It is in a lovely historic Venetian building. Pride of place among the many vestiges of Venetian rule in the old quarter goes to the Rimondi Fountain with its spouting lion heads and Corinthian capitals; and the 16th-century Loggia, now a museum shop. At the southern end of Ethnikis Antistaseos is the well-preserved Porto Guora (Great Gate), a remnant of the defensive wall. The Centre for Byzantine Art (% ; Ethnikis Antistaseos) is a great example of a restored CRETE

243 Mesolongiou 478 CENTRAL CRETE Rethymno Book accommodation online at CENTRAL CRETE Rethymno 479 CRETE Venetian/Turkish mansion and has a terrace café with great views of the old town. Other Turkish legacies in the old quarter include the Kara Musa Pasha Mosque, which has a vaulted fountain; and the Nerantzes Mosque, which was converted from a Franciscan church in The building s minaret, built in 1890, was being restored at the time of researching RETHYMNO 46 Periferiakos Leoforos Kefalogiannidon INFORMATION Alpha Bank... 1 C5 Cybernet... 2 D4 Ellotia Tours... 3 C4 EOS... 4 D5 Ilias Spondidakis Bookshop... 5 C3 KTEL...(see 46) Laundry Mat... 6 C4 National Bank of Greece.. 7 D5 Post Office... 8 C5 Rethymno Hospital... 9 B5 Xenos Typos C4 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Archaeological Museum.. 11 B3 National Stadium Vardinogianni Iroon Polytehniou Alexandrou Igoumenou Gavriil Kriari To University of Crete (3km); Hania (57km) Riga Fereou Smyrnis 41 Koroneou Centre for Byzantine Art.. 12 C4 Entrance to Fortress B3 Fortress B2 Happy Walker C4 Historical & Folk Art Museum B4 Kara Musa Pasha Mosque D5 Loggia C3 Nerantzes Mosque C4 Paradise Dive Centre C3 Porto Guora C4 Rimondi Fountain C3 SLEEPING Atelier B3 14 Dimakopoulou Vlastou Sifi 9 Melissinou Iliakaki Koumoundourou 40 Arabatzoglou Katehaki Radamanthyos Nikiforou Foka Kefalogiannidon Municipal Park To Agia Galini (55km) 24 Vernardou Dimitrikaki 29 this book. The building now houses the Hellenic Conservatory and makes a lovely venue for concerts and recitals. Activities T he Happy Walker (%/fax ; walker.com; Tombazi 56; h5pm-8.30pm) runs various walks in the region Avli Lounge Apartments.. 24 B3 Barbara Dokimaki Rooms C3 Byzantine Hotel C4 Casa dei Delfini B4 Hotel Fortezza B3 Hotel Veneto B3 Olga's Pension C4 Palazzo Rimondi C3 Rethymno Youth Hostel.. 32 C4 Sea Front C4 EATING Avli C3 Castelvecchio B2 Fanari C Ethnikis Antistaseos S E A O F C R E T E Martyron Daskalaki Plastira Damvergi Salaminos Souliou 45 Paleologou Tombazi Pavlou Koundouriotou Moatsou m miles Venetian harbour 33 3 Gerakari Lemonokipos C4 Samaria D4 Taverna Kyria Maria C3 Thalassografia B2 ENTERTAINMENT Erofili Theatre B3 Figaro C3 Fortezza Disco C3 Rock Club Café C3 TRANSPORT ANEK C3 Bus Station A5 Ferries to Piraeus D3 Olympic Airways B5 Dimokratias 38 2 Town Hall 7 47 Varda Kallergi 4 Ferry Quay Eleftheriou Venizelou Arkadiou To Auto Moto Sport (300m); Municipal Tourist Office (500m); Marina (500m); Odyseas the Cyclist (1km); 17 Marouli To Piraeus Iroön To Moni Arkadiou (23km); Iraklio (85km) Rethymno s chapter of the EOS (Greek Alpine Club; % ; eos.rethymnon.com; Dimokratias 12) can give advice on mountain climbing in the region. The Paradise Dive Centre (% ; runs diving activities and PADI courses for all grades of divers from their dive base at Petres, about 15 minutes west of Rethymno. Odyseas the Cyclist (%/fax ; odyseasthecyclist@hotmail.com; Velouhioti 31) runs guided rides in the area. Festivals & Events Rethymno s main cultural event is the annual Renaissance Festival (% ; hjul-sep), primarily held in the Erofili Theatre at the fortress. Most years there s a Wine Festival in mid-july in the municipal park. There are lively carnival celebrations in February. Sleeping BUDGET Rethymno Youth Hostel (% ; Tombazi 41; dm without bathroom 9; i) The hostel is friendly and well run with free hot showers. Breakfast is available from 2 and there s a bar in the evening. There is no curfew and it is open all year. Olga s Pension (% ; Souliou 57; s/d/tr 35/45/65; a) Friendly Olga s is tucked away on touristy but colourful Souliou. It has a faded charm, with a quirky décor and a network of terraces connecting a range of basic but colourful rooms. Most have a fridge, TV, fan and basic bathrooms. Rates include breakfast at Stella s kitchen downstairs. Atelier (% ; atelier@ret.forthnet.gr; Himaras 27; r 35-45) Some of the best-value options are these clean and attractively refurbished rooms attached to Frosso Bora s pottery workshop. They have exposed stone walls and many Venetian architectural features, as well as small flatscreen TVs, new bathrooms and kitchenettes. Sea Front (% ; tia; Arkadiou 159; d 35-45; a) This conveniently located pension on the beach has pleasant budget rooms with timber floors, fridge and air-con. It also has cheerful studio apartments with sea views and ceiling fans further towards the town beach, and rooms in another building nearby. Byzantine Hotel (% ; Vosporou 26; d incl breakfast 45) This excellent-value small hotel in a historic building near the Porta Guora maintains a traditional feel. The rooms are simply decorated with carved timber furniture and some have bathtubs. The back rooms overlook the old mosque and minaret. There s no aircon, though there were plans to install it. MIDRANGE & TOP END Casa dei Delfini (% ; kzaxa@reth.gr; Nikiforou Foka 66-68; studio 45-70, ste ; a) Turkish and Venetian architectural features have been cleverly maintained in this elegant pension, including an old stone trough and the hammam ceiling in one of the studio bathrooms. There is a range of traditionally decorated rooms, all with kitchenettes, through the most impressive is the massive maisonette with a large private terrace. Hotel Fortezza (% ; Melissinou 16; s/d incl breakfast 57/69; pas) Housed in a refurbished old building in the heart of the old town, the tasteful rooms have TVs, telephones and air-con. After a day of roaming through Rethymno, it s pleasant to relax by the swimming pool. Hotel Veneto (% ; Epimenidou 4; studio/ste incl breakfast 112/127; a) The oldest part of the hotel dates from the 14th century and many traditional features have been preserved without sacrificing modern comforts. There s a stunning pebble mosaic in the foyer and the eye-catching rooms of polished wood floors and ceilings have iron beds, satellite TV and kitchenettes. Rates drop significantly out of high season. Palazzo Rimondi (% ; mondi.com; Xanthoulidou 21 & Trikoupi 16; d studio/ste incl breakfast 160/190; a) This charming Venetian mansion in the heart of the old city has exquisite individually decorated studios with kitchenettes. There s a small splash pool in the courtyard where breakfast is served. Avli Lounge Apartments (% ; cnr Xanthoudidou 22 & Radamanthyos; ste incl à la carte breakfast ; a) These decadent eclectic suites are spread over two beautifully restored Venetian buildings in Rethymno s historic old town. There are ornate iron or wooden beds, antiques, exquisite furnishings and objets d art. Eating The waterfront and Venetian harbour are lined with similar tourist restaurants fronted by fast-talking touts. Rethymno s best restaurants are inland from the harbour. CRETE

244 480 CENTRAL CRETE Rethymno CENTRAL CRETE Around Rethymno 481 CRETE BUDGET Taverna Kyria Maria (% ; Moshovitou 20; Cretan dishes ) For traditional atmosphere, head inland down the little side streets to Kyria Maria, behind the Rimondi Fountain. This taverna has outdoor seating with bird cages hanging from the leafy trellis. Samaria (% ; Eleftheriou Venizelou; mayirefta ) Of the waterfront tavernas, this is one of the few where you ll see local families eating. There s a large range of casserole-style mayirefta (ready-cooked meals), the soups and grills are excellent and the fruit and raki (Greek fire water, smoother than tsipouro) are complimentary. MIDRANGE Fanari (% ; Kefalogiannidon 15; mezedhes ) West of the Venetian harbour, this welcoming waterfront taverna serves good mezedhes, fresh fish and Cretan cuisine. The bekri mezes (pork with wine and peppers) is excellent or try apaki, the local smoked pork speciality. The home-made wine is decent, too. Thalassografia (% ; Kefalogiannidon 33; mezedhes ) This excellent mezedhopoleio (restaurant specialising in mezedhes), in a breathtaking setting under the fortezza with views out to sea, is the place to watch the sunset and try some fine mezedhes. The grilled sardines are excellent, as are the creamy mushrooms. Lemonokipos (% ; Ethnikis AntistasIs 100; mains ) Dine among the lemon trees in the lovely courtyard of this well-respected taverna in the old quarter. It s good typical Cretan fare, with a good range of vegetarian dishes and lots of tasty appetisers. Castelvecchio (% ; Himaras 29; mains 7-16; hdinner only Jul-Aug, dinner & lunch Sep-Jun) The affable Valantis will make you really feel at home in the garden terrace of this family taverna located on the edge of the fortezza. Try the kleftiko (slow oven-baked lamb). Avli (% ; cnr Xanthoudidou 22 & Radamanthyos; mains ) This delightful former Venetian villa is the place for a special night out. The Nuevo-Cretan style food is superb, the wine list excellent and you dine in an idyllic garden courtyard bursting with pots of herbs, bougainvillea canopies, fruit trees and works of art. Entertainment Rethymno s livelier nightlife is concentrated in the cluster of bars, clubs and discos around Nearhou and Salaminos, near the Venetian harbour area as well as the waterfront bars off Plastira Square, which are popular with younger locals. Students frequent the lively rakadika on Vernadou. Rock Club Cafe (% ; Petihaki 8; h9pmdawn) One of Rethymno s classic hang-outs, tourists fills the club nightly. Fortezza Disco (Nearhou 20; h11pm-dawn) Big and flashy with three bars, a laser show and a well-groomed international crowd that starts drifting in around midnight. Figaro (% ; Vernardou 21; %noon-late) Housed in an ingeniously restored old building, Figaro is an atmospheric art and music all-day bar that attracts a subdued crowd for drinks, snacks and excellent music. Getting There & Away BUS From the bus station (% ; Igoumenou Gavriil) there are hourly summer services to both Hania ( 6, one hour) and Iraklio ( 6.50, 1½ hours). There are also seven buses a day to Plakias ( 3.50, one hour), six to Agia Galini ( 5.30, 1½ hours), three to Moni Arkadiou ( 2.40, 30 minutes), two to Omalos ( 11.90, two hours) and four to Preveli ( 4). There are daily buses to Hora Sfakion via Vryses. Services are greatly reduced in the low season. CATAMARAN & FERRY ANEK (% ; Arkadiou 250) operates a ferry three times a week between Rethymno and Piraeus ( 29, 10 hours), leaving both ports at 8pm. Note that some ferries leave from the port and others from the marina further east. NEL LINES (% ; runs a high-speed service between Rethymno and Piraeus ( 57, five hours) daily from July to September (four times a week May to June). SeaJets ( runs the Superjet catamaran on Thursday and Saturday between Rethymno and Santorini ( 37.90, two hours and 40 minutes), Ios, Naxos and Mykonos ( 58). Getting Around Auto Moto Sport (% ; Sofokli Venizelou 48) rents cars and has 300 motorbikes, from mopeds and 50cc bikes to a Harley 1200cc. AROUND RETHYMNO Moni Arkadiou Μονή Αρκαδίου This historic 16th-century monastery (Arkadi; % ; admission 2; h9am-7pm Apr-Oct) stands in attractive hill country 23km southeast of Rethymno. The most impressive building is the Venetian baroque church. Its striking façade has eight slender Corinthian columns and is topped by an ornate triplebelled tower. In November 1866 the Turks sent massive forces to quell insurrections that were gathering momentum throughout the island. Hundreds of men, women and children who had fled their villages used the monastery as a safe haven. When 2000 Turkish soldiers staged an attack on the building, rather than surrender, the Cretans set light to a store of gun powder. The explosion killed everyone, Turks included, except one small girl, who lived to a ripe old age in a village nearby. A bust of this woman, and the abbot who lit the gun powder, stand outside the monastery. To the left of the Venetian church is a small museum. The ossuary in the former windmill outside the museum grounds has a macabre collection of skulls and bones of the 1866 fighters. There are three daily buses from Rethymno to the monastery ( 2.40, 30 minutes). Margarites Μαργαρίτες pop 331 Known for its pottery tradition, Margarites, 27km from Rethymno, is invaded by tour buses in the morning. There are more than 20 ceramic studios and among the garish pieces that line the main street there are some places with good-quality, authentic local designs. The traditional potters use local clay collected from the foot of Mt Psiloritis, which is of such fine quality it needs only one firing and no glazing the outside is smoothed with a pebble. You will see many pieces bearing the flower motif of the area. The most traditional place is the workshop of septuagenarian potter Manolis Syragopoulos (% ) who is the only one still using manual wheels and a wood-fired kiln to make pottery the way his greatgrandfather did. It s about 1km outside the town on your left. Other stand-out places include Konstantinos Gallios excellent studio Ceramic Art (% ) and the friendly Kerameion (% ) on the main street, which has many pieces based on Minoan designs. There are wonderful views over the valley from the taverna terraces on the main square. From Margarites, you can visit Ancient Eleftherna with its amazing Roman cisterns. There are two buses daily Monday to Friday from Rethymno ( 3, 30 minutes). ANOGIA ΑΝΩΓΕΙΑ pop 2454 If ever there was a village that embodies quintessential Crete, it is Anogia, a bucolic village perched on the flanks of Mt Psiloritis 37km southwest of Iraklio. Anogia is well known for its rebellious spirit and its determination to hang on to its undiluted Cretan character. Its famous 2000-guest weddings involve the entire village. It s also known for its stirring music and has spawned a disproportionate number of Crete s best-known musicians. Anogia is a macho town where the kafeneia (coffee shops) on the main square are frequented by black-shirted moustachioed men, the older ones often wearing traditional dress. The women stay behind the scenes or flog traditional crafts that hang all over the shops in town. During WWII Anogia was a centre of resistance to the Germans, who massacred all the men in the village in retaliation for their role in sheltering Allied troops and aiding in the kidnap of General Kreipe. Today, Anogia is the centre of a prosperous sheephusbandry industry and a burgeoning tourist trade, bolstered as much by curious Greeks as by foreign travellers seeking a glimpse of real Crete. The town is spread out on a hillside with the textile shops in the lower half and most accommodation and businesses in the upper half. There s an Agricultural Bank with an ATM, and post office in the upper village. You can check mail at Infocost (% ; per hr 3; h5pm-late) in the upper village. In the upper village, the friendly Hotel Aristea (% ; d incl breakfast 40) has good views from the simple but well-outfitted rooms with TV, private bathrooms and balconies, and there s an excellent set of new studios next door. CRETE

245 482 CENTRAL CRETE Spili Book accommodation online at CENTRAL CRETE Around Plakias 483 CRETE Ta Skalomata (% ; grills 4-8) provides a wide variety of grills and Cretan dishes at very reasonable prices. Zucchini with cheese and aubergine is very tasty, as is its home-baked bread. The restaurant is on the eastern side of the upper village and enjoys great views. There are four buses daily from Iraklio ( 3.40, one hour), and two buses daily Monday to Friday from Rethymno ( 4.70, 1¼ hours). SPILI ΣΠΗΛΙ pop 642 Spili (spee-lee), 30km southeast of Rethymno is a pretty mountain village with cobbled streets, rustic houses and plane trees. Its centrepiece is a unique Venetian fountain, which spurts water from 19 lion heads, though its recent refurbishment was ill-advised. Bring along your own containers and fill up with the best water on the island. Tourist buses regularly stop in the town during the day, but in the evening Spili belongs to the locals. It is a good spot for lunch and a great base for exploring the region, midway between the north and south coast. The bus stop is just south of the square. There are two ATMs and the post office on the main street and you can check mail at Café Babis near the fountain. Friendly Heracles Rooms (%/fax ; heraclespapadakis@hotmail.com; s/d 29/40; a) has spotless, nicely furnished rooms with insect screens, fridge and air-con and great mountain views. Costas Inn (% ; fax ; d incl breakfast 40) has well-kept, pleasant rooms with a homey atmosphere, satellite TV, radio and ceiling fans. Some of the rooms have a fridge. Yianni s (% ; mains 4-7), past the fountain, is a good dining option with a big courtyard and excellent traditional cooking such as the delicious rabbit in wine, mountain snails and a decent house red. Pantelis Vasilakis and his wife Calliope run a fine traditional taverna, Panorama (% ), in a picturesque location on the outskirts of town towards Agia Galini. The bread is usually home-made, the mezedhes are excellent and the mains include Cretan specialities such as kid goat with wild greens. PLAKIAS ΠΛΑΚΙΑΣ pop 177 Plakias is one of the liveliest resort towns on the southern coast. The well-run youth hostel helps attract a younger crowd than many of the resorts nearby. The medium-size hotels in town attract independent travellers. Offseason it attracts many families and an older crowd. Plakias has some decent eating options, good regional walks, a large sandy beach and enough activities and nightlife to keep you entertained. It is also a good base from which to explore the region, with a number of excellent beaches nearby. Orientation & Information It s easy to find your way around Plakias. One street skirts the beach and another runs parallel to it one block back. The bus stop is at the middle of the waterfront. Plakias has two ATMs, while Monza Travel Agency (% ), near the bus stop, arranges car and bike hire and excursions. The post office is on the street off Monza Travel. Check for hotel information. You can check mail at Ostraco Bar (% ; per hr 4; h9am-late) on the main street or at the Youth Hostel Plakias (% ; per hr 3.60). Anso Travel (% ; runs a range of guided walking tours in the area. Sleeping Youth Hostel Plakias (% ; dm 9; i) For independent travellers this is the place to stay in Plakias. Manager Chris from the UK has created a very friendly place with spotless dorms, green lawns, volleyball court and internet access. He also upgraded the toilets and showers and built a porch. It s a 10-minute signposted walk from the bus stop. Castello (%/fax ; r/studio 30/33; ap) It is the relaxed owner Christos and his welltended garden that makes this place a happy haven. All rooms are cool, clean and fridgeequipped and most have cooking facilities and big shady balconies. There are also big two-bedroom apartments ideal for families ( 45 to 55). Air-con is an extra 5. Paligremnos Studios (% ; remnos.com; r 35-40; a) At the far eastern end of the beach, these family-run studios are dated but are a decent budget option. They have kitchenettes and some have great sea views from the balconies. There is an attached shady taverna. Pension Thetis (% ; thetisstudios@gmail. com; studio 45-70; a) is a very pleasant and clean family-oriented set of studios. The rooms have fridge, basic cooking facilities, coffee maker and satellite TV. Relax in the cool and leafy garden where there is a small play park for kids. Eating Lisseos (% ; meals ; hfrom 7pm) In an uninspiring location below the road near the bridge, Lisseos is nevertheless well-known for the best home-style cooking in town. Taverna Christos (% ; specials 5-11) An established waterfront taverna, Christos has a romantic tamarisk-shaded terrace overlooking the sea. It has a good choice of Cretan dishes and fresh fish, and an inviting daily specials board. O Tasomanolis (% ; mixed fish for 2 16) This traditional fish taverna on the western end of the beach is run by a keen fisherman. You can sample his catch on a pleasant terrace overlooking the beach, grilled and accompanied with wild greens and wine. Top fish are 45. He also takes boat trips ( 12 return) to Preveli. Nikos Souvlaki (% ) is a popular and cheap souvlaki place frequented by the hostel crowd, but locals reliably swear by To Xehoristo (% ) on the main road. It is worth the drive through the spectacular Kotsifou Gorge to eat hearty home-style Cretan food at Iliomanolis (% ; mains 4-6) in the village of Kanevos. Maria is happy to show you the tempting array of pots in the kitchen (between dishes each day). Getting There & Away In summer there are six buses a day from Rethymno ( 3.50, one hour). It s possible to get to Agia Galini from Plakias by catching a Rethymno bus to the Koxare junction (referred to as Bale on timetables) and waiting for a bus to Agia Galini. The bus stop has a timetable. Getting Around Cars Alianthos (% ; is a reliable car-hire outlet. Easy Ride (% ; close to the post office, rents out mountain bikes, bicycles, scooters and motorcycles. AROUND PLAKIAS Moni Preveli Μονή Πρέβελη Standing in splendid isolation above the Libyan Sea, 14km east of Plakias and 35km from Rethymno, is the well-maintained Moni Preveli (% ; admission 2.50; h8am-7.30pm Jun-Oct). Like most of Crete s monasteries, it played a significant role in the islanders rebellion against Turkish rule. It became a centre of resistance during 1866, causing the Turks to set fire to it and destroy surrounding crops. After the Battle of Crete in 1941, many Allied soldiers were sheltered here before their evacuation to Egypt. In retaliation the Germans plundered the monastery. The monastery s museum contains a candelabra presented by grateful British soldiers after the war. From June through August there are four buses daily from Rethymno to Moni Preveli ( 3.90). Preveli At the mouth of the Kourtaliotis Gorge, Preveli or Palm (Paralia Finikodasous) is one of Crete s most photographed and popular beaches. The river Megalopotamos meets the back end of the beach before it conveniently loops around and empties into the Libyan Sea. The palm-lined banks of the river have freshwater pools ideal for a swim and there are also pedal boats for hire. The beach is fringed with oleander bushes and palm trees. A steep path leads down to the beach from a car park about 1km before Moni Preveli. Alternatively, you can drive to within several hundred metres of the beach by following a signposted, 5km, drivable dirt road from a stone bridge just off the Moni Preveli main road. The road ends at Amoudi beach, from where you can walk west along a 500m access track over the headland and you re home. You can also get there by boat from Plakias or Agia Galini from June through August. AGIOS PAVLOS & TRIOPETRA ΑΓΙΟΣ ΠΑΥΛΟΣ & ΤΡΙΟΠΕΤΡΑ It s not surprising that the fabulous remote sandy beaches of Agios Pavlos and Triopetra have been chosen by yoga retreats. These unspoilt and peaceful beaches, about 53km CRETE

246 484 CENTRAL CRETE Agia Galini Book accommodation online at WESTERN CRETE Hania 485 CRETE from Rethymno, surrounded by sand dunes and rugged cliffs are arguably one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline in Crete. Agios Pavlos is little more than a few rooms and tavernas around a small cove with a sandy beach, but the best beaches are on the subsequent sandy coves, which are about a 10- minute walk over the cliffs (though you ll get sandblasted on very windy days). The coves stretch all the way to the three giant rocks rising from the sea that give Triopetra its name. The long stretch of beach beyond can be reached from Agios Pavlos (about 300m is drivable dirt road) or via a 12km-long windy asphalt road from the village of Akoumia, on the Rethymno Agia Galini road. Agios Pavlos Hotel & Taverna (% ; d 30-40) is a family-run place with simple rooms in the main building with small balconies overlooking the sea, as well as rooms under the shady terrace below the taverna; it has good Cretan food (mayirefta 4.50 to 7). The café-bar next door has internet facilities. The same family also has large selfcontained studios at the Kavos Melissa complex (r 45) further up on the cliff. For real isolation, Pavlos Taverna Pension (%/ fax ; d/tr/q 30/35/40; a), on the smaller eastern beach in Triopetra, has decent rooms with small kitchens and great sea view balconies. The taverna serves local meat, home-grown organic produce and fresh fish and lobster (which Pavlos normally catches). There is no public transport to any of these beaches. AGIA GALINI ΑΓΙΑ ΓΑΛΗΝΗ pop 1260 Agia Galini (a-ya ga-lee-nee) is another erst while picturesque fishing village where package tourism and overdevelopment have spoilt much of its original charm. Hemmed in against the sea by large sandstone cliffs and phalanxes of hotels and domatia, Agia Galini can be rather claustrophobic. It is probably the most touristy southern beach resort, though inoffensive compared to the north coast. While it still gets lively during peak season, and has a great atmosphere at night, it has become a more sedate resort attracting a middle-aged crowd and families. It s a convenient base to visit Phaestos and Agia Triada, and although the town beach is crowded there are boats to better beaches. Orientation & Information You can get information at The bus station is at the top of the approach road. The post office is just past the bus stop. There are ATMs and travel agencies with currency exchange. Many cafes have internet access, including Hoi Polloi (% ; per hr 4; h9am-late). Sleeping Agia Galini Camping (% ; camp sites per adult/tent 6/4; s) Next to the beach, 2.5km east of the town, this well-run camping ground is shaded and has a pool, restaurant and minimarket. Hotel Rea (%/fax ; sara.de; s/d 30/35; a) On the main road near the port, this budget hotel is dated, but has clean, reasonably sized twin and double rooms with pine furniture. The bathrooms are basic but the front rooms have balconies with sea views. Stohos Rooms & Taverna (% ; d incl breakfast 40-45; a) On the main beach, with apartments upstairs with kitchenettes and big balconies, and huge studios downstairs that are ideal for families or groups. Friendly Fanourios presides over the excellent taverna downstairs. Try the kleftiko or other clay-oven dishes ( 8.50). Adonis (% ; r ; as) This pleasant hotel is spread over several buildings but the rooms, studios and apartments all have use of the large pool. Rooms are light and clean and most have been refurbished. Some have balconies with sea views. Eating Madame Hortense (% ; Greek dishes ) The most atmospheric and elegant restaurant in town is on the top floor of the three-level Zorbas complex, enjoying great views of the harbour. Cuisine is Greek Mediterranean and it does steaks ( 12). La Strada (% ; pizzas , pastas 5-6) On the first street left of the bus station, this place has excellent pizzas, pastas and risottos. Kostas (% ; fish dishes 6-27) Right on the beach at the eastern end, this established fish taverna decked out in classic blue and white is always packed with locals. There s a big range of mezedhes and pricey but excellent seafood. ALTERNATIVE TOURISM ON CRETE Crete is far more than a sea-and-sun island destination, and a slow but steady shift towards alternative tourism is offering more responsible and appealing options than the cheap allinclusive packages in the northern beach resorts. Formerly abandoned mountain villages are being restored to attract year-round rural tourism, agrotourism is quietly on the rise, along with cultural- and gourmet-travel-based programmes and well-run outdoor activities and extreme sports. One of the ecotourism trailblazers is the isolated mountain settlement of Milia (% ; The abandoned stone farmhouses were reconstructed into ecolodges with only solar energy for basic needs and promote a back-to-nature philosophy. You can visit Milia just to dine at the superb taverna, which uses organic produce from its farm (it s after the village of Vlatos via a drivable 3km dirt road), including its own oil, wine, milk and cheese. Another fine example of classy rural developments is Enagron (% ; in the central mountain village of Axos, where guests are just as likely to be found in the kitchen as they are by the pool, and can participate in agricultural and productive life, from raki- or cheese-making with the local shepherds to picking wild greens. Sustainable tourism and Cretan food is the theme of Crete s Culinary Sanctuaries ( which runs visits to organic farms, wineries and traditional cooking demonstrations in village homes. Crete has long been a magnet for nature lovers, with endless opportunities for hiking and hard-core trekking, but you can also experience the thrill of parasailing with the griffon vultures and riding through the hills at Avdou ( bungee jumping off the Aradena bridge ( climbing up Mt Kofinas ( or participating in a raft of activities around the island organised by a new generation of local nature enthusiasts (www. cretanadventures.gr). Faros (% ; fish dishes 7-11) Inland from the harbour, this no-frills place is one of the oldest fish tavernas in town, dishing up reasonably priced fresh fish (per kilogram 45) as well as a range of grills and mayirefta. Getting There & Away In peak season there are six buses each day to Iraklio ( 7.10, two hours), six to Rethymno ( 5.30, 1½ hours) and five to Phaestos and Matala ( 2.80, 40 to 45 minutes). In summer there are daily boats from the harbour to the beaches of Agios Giorgios, Agiofarango and Preveli ( 1 to 20). WESTERN CRETE The westernmost part of Crete comprises the prefecture of Hania, named after the charming old Venetian city that is the region s capital. Its most famous attraction is the spectacular Samaria Gorge. The hinterland is fascinating to explore and the south-coast towns of Paleohora and Sougia are some of the island s most laid-back resorts. HANIA ΧΑΝΙΑ pop 53,373 Hania (hahn-yah; also spelt Chania) is unreservedly Crete s most evocative city. Its beautiful Venetian quarter is a web of atmospheric streets that tumble onto a magnificent harbour. Restored Venetian townhouses have been converted into chic restaurants and boutique hotels, while ruins house stunning tavernas. The prominent former mosque on the harbour and other remnants of the city s Turkish rulers add to Hania s exotic charm. Hania has a lively tradition of artisanship and boasts some of the island s finest restaurants. The Old Town is a great place to spend a few days. The Hania Prefecture gets its fair share of package tourists, but most of them stick to the beach developments that stretch out to the west. It is a main transit point for trekkers heading for the Samaria Gorge. History Hania is the site of the Minoan settlement of Kydonia, which was centred on the hill to the east of the harbour. Excavation work continues, but the discovery of clay tablets CRETE

247 486 WESTERN CRETE Hania WESTERN CRETE Hania 487 CRETE with Linear B script has led archaeologists to believe that Kydonia was both a palace site and an important town. Kydonia met the same fiery fate as most other Minoan settlements in 1450 BC, but soon re-emerged as a force. It was a flourishing city-state during Hellenistic times and continued to prosper under Roman and Byzantine rule. The Venetians took over at the beginning of the 13th century, and changed the city s name to La Canea. They constructed massive fortifications to deter marauding pirates and invading Turks but they did not prove very effective against the Turks, who took Hania in 1645 after a two-month siege. The Great Powers made Hania the island capital in 1898 and it remained so until 1971, when the administration was transferred to Iraklio. Hania was heavily bombed during WWII, but enough of the Old Town survives for it to be regarded as Crete s most beautiful city. Orientation Hania s bus station is on Kydonias, two blocks southwest of 1866, from where the Old Harbour is a short walk north up Halidon. Most accommodation is to the left as you face the harbour. The headland separates the Venetian port from the crowded town beach in the modern quarter, called Nea Hora. Koum Kapi is a rejuvenated precinct in the old Turkish quarter further east, lined with waterfront cafés. Boats to Hania dock at Souda, about 7km southeast of town. Information BOOKSHOPS Mediterraneo Bookstore (% ; Akti Koundourioti 57) An extensive range of English language novels and books on Crete, as well as international press. Pelekanakis (% ; Halidon 98) Has maps, guidebooks and books in 11 languages. EMERGENCY Tourist police (% ; Kydonias 29; h8am- 2.30pm) At the Town Hall. INTERNET ACCESS Triple W (% ; Valadinon & Halidon; per hr 2; h24hr) Vranas Internet (% ; Agion Deka 10; per hr 2; h9.30am-1am) INTERNET RESOURCES The Municipality website has information on the city and cultural events. Has good information on Hania city and prefecture. LAUNDRY Laundry (% ; Agion Deka 18; wash & dry 6) LEFT LUGGAGE KTEL bus station (% ; Kydonias 73-77; per day 1.50) MEDICAL SERVICES Hania Hospital (% ; Mournies) Located south of town. MONEY Most banks are concentrated around the new city, but there are ATMs in the Old Town on Halidon, including Alpha Bank (cnr Halidon & Skalidi) and Citibank. The National Bank of Greece (cnr Tzanakaki & Giannari) has a 24-hour exchange machine. POST Post office (% ; Peridou 10; h7.30am- 8pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-2pm Sat) TOURIST INFORMATION The Municipal Tourist Information Office (% ; tourism@chania.gr; Kydonias 29; h8am-2.30pm) is located under the Town Hall and provides helpful practical information and maps. An information booth behind the mosque in Old Harbour also tends to be manned between noon and 2pm. TRAVEL AGENCIES Tellus Travel (% ; Halidon 108; h8am-11pm) Rents cars, changes money, arranges air and boat tickets, accommodation and excursions. Sights MUSEUMS Hania s Archaeological Museum (% ; Halidon 30; admission 2, incl Byzantine Collection 3; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun, closes later in summer but hr vary) is housed in the impressive 16th-century Venetian Church of San Francisco. The Turkish fountain in the grounds is a relic from the building s days as a mosque. The museum houses a well-displayed collection of finds from western Crete dating from the Neolithic to the Roman era, including statues, vases, jewellery, three splendid floor mosaics and some impressive painted sarcophagi from the Late-Minoan cemetery of Armeni. The Naval Museum (% ; Akti Koundourioti; admission 3; h9am-4pm) has an interesting collection of model ships dating from the Bronze Age, naval instruments, paintings, photographs and memorabilia from the Battle of Crete. The museum is housed in the Firkas Fortress on the headland, once the old Turkish prison. The Byzantine and Post Byzantine Collection of Hania (% ; Theotokopoulou; admission 2, incl Archaeological Museum 3; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) is in the impressively restored Church of San Salvatore, on the western side of the fortress. It has a small but fascinating collection of artefacts, icons, jewellery and coins, including a fine mosaic floor and a prized icon of St George slaying the dragon. Hania s quaint and jam-packed Cretan House Folklore Museum (% ; Halidon 46; admission 2; h9.30am-3pm & 6-9pm) contains a selection of crafts and implements including traditional weavings. OTHER ATTRACTIONS The massive fortifications built by the Venetians to provide a decent defence for their city remain impressive. The bestpreserved section is the western wall, running from the Firkas Fortress to the Siavo Bastion. You can walk up to the top of the bastion for some good views of the Old Town (entry through the Naval Museum). The Venetian lighthouse at the entrance to the harbour has been restored, though the new lighting along the sea wall could have been more subtle. It s a 1.5km walk around the sea wall to get there. On the eastern side of Hania s inner harbour you will see the prominent Mosque of Kioutsouk Hasan (also commonly known as the Mosque of Janissaries), which houses regular art exhibitions. The Great Arsenal has been stunningly restored and is now home to the Centre for Mediterranean Architecture, which hosts regular events and exhibitions. The restored Etz Hayyim Synagogue (Parodos Kondylaki; % ; h10am-8pm Tue-Fri, 5-8pm Sun, 10am-3pm & 5-8pm Mon) has a very moving memorial to the Jews of Hania who were extinguished by the Nazis. Hania s Municipal Art Gallery (% ; Halidon 98; h10am-2pm & 7-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; 2; free admission Wed) hosts exhibitions of modern Greek art. You can escape the crowds of the Venetian quarter by taking a stroll around the Turkish Splantzia quarter a delightful tangle of narrow streets and little squares that is slowly being restored and the streets paved and cut off to traffic. It is attracting new boutique hotels, galleries and artistic or alternative pursuits. Along Daliani, you will see one of Hania s two remaining minarets. You can see excavation works at the site of Ancient Kydonia, to the east of the old harbour at the junction of Kanevaro and Kandaloneou. Activities Alpine Travel (% ; Boniali 11-19) organises a range of trekking programmes. EOS (% ; Tzanakaki 90), the Hania branch of the Greek Mountaineering Association, has information about serious climbing in the Lefka Ori, Greece s mountain refuges and the Trans-European E4 trail. It runs regular weekend excursions. Trekking Plan (% ; 8km west of town in Agia Marina, organises treks to the Agia Irini and Imbros gorges, climbs of Mt Gingilos, mountain-bike tours, canyoning, rappelling, rock-climbing and kayaking trips. Blue Adventures Diving (% ; Arholeon 11) offers a PADI certification course ( 370) and daily diving trips around Hania (two dives 75), including beginner dives. There are also snorkelling trips and cruise options. Hania for Children If your five-year-old has lost interest in Venetian architecture, head to the public garden between Tzanakaki and Dimokratias, where there s a playground, a small zoo with two resident kri-kri (Cretan goat) and a shady café. A few kilometres south of town the giant water park Limnoupolis (% ; Varypetro; day pass adult/children /12; afternoon pass 12/9; h10am-7pm) has enough slides and rides to keep kids amused. Buses leave regularly from the KTEL bus station ( 1.60). CRETE

248 Koraï 488 WESTERN CRETE Hania WESTERN CRETE Hania 489 HANIA m miles CRETE Akti Kanari To Akrogiali (500m); Nea Hora (500m); Hania Camping (3km); Kalamaki (3.5km) Pardali M Metaxaki Patriarhou Ioanikiou Kissamou Nea Hora Apostolidou Patriarhou Gerasimou To Agia Marina (8km); Platanias (11km); Kissamos-Kastelli (41km) Piga Pireos Kyrilou Theotokopoulou Ritsou Portou Skalidi Ionias Ange 34 lou Theofanous Douka P Kalaïdi 32 Moshou Akti 44 Skoufou Koundourioti 24 Kondylaki 1 59 Venetian Port 8 5 Kydonias Zambeliou Halidon Zymvrakidon Isodion Tombazi Akti Orthodox Cathedral Karaoli Dimitriou Betolo Skrydlof Kriari Lithinon 36 Mylonogianni Sea of Crete Katre Hrys Episkopou Town Hall 7 Potie 10 Hortatson Mousouron Karaïskaki Ypsilandon Kanevaro 57 Gavaladon Ag Markou Mihali Dalani Tsouderon Plastira Peridou Sifaka 3 Apokoronou Arholeon Sarpaki Markopoulou Giannari Akti Enoseos Kalergon 9 46 Splantzia 1821 Daskalogianni Kalistou Vourdouba Nikiforou Episkopou Tzanakaki Boniali Melidoniou Sfakion 38 Epimenidou Dimokratias Minos Nikiforou Foka El Venizelou Trikoupi 23 Akti Miaouli Kyprou Stadium INFORMATION Alpha Bank... 1 C4 Citibank... 2 C3 Municipal Tourist Information Office...(see 7) National Bank of Greece... 3 D4 Post Office... 4 D5 Tellus Travel... 5 C4 Tourist Information Booth... 6 C2 Tourist Police... 7 D5 Triple W... 8 C4 Vranas Internet...(see 36) SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Alpine Travel... 9 E5 Ancient Kydonia D3 Archaeological Museum C3 Blue Adventures Diving E2 Cretan House Folklore Museum C4 EOS F6 Etz Hayyim Synagogue C3 Firkas Fortress B2 Great Arsenal D2 Lighthouse C1 Minaret E4 Mosque of Kioutsouk Hasan C2 Municipal Art Gallery C4 Naval Museum B2 Public Garden F5 Siavo Bastion C4 Zoo...(see 23) To Mahalas (500m) To Thalassino Ageri (1km); Koukouvagia (4km); Airport (14km) SLEEPING Amphora Hotel B2 Casa Delfino B3 Casa Leone B2 Ianos Hotel D3 Ifigenia Rooms & Studios B3 Madonna Studios & Apartments B2 Monastiri Pension D2 Nostos Hotel B3 Pension Lena B2 Pension Theresa B2 Porto de Colombo B3 Vranas Studios D3 EATING Amphora...(see 25) Apostolis I Taverna E2 Apostolis II Taverna F2 Doloma E2 Ela C3 Mesogeiako D4 Michelas...(see 52) Pigadi tou Tourkou D3 Portes B3 Tamam C3 To Karnagio D2 ENTERTAINMENT Café Kriti E2 Fagotto Jazz Bar B2 Fortezza D1 Synagogi C3 Ta Duo Lux E2 SHOPPING Carmela B2 Food Market D4 Miden Agan E3 Paraoro B3 Roka Carpets B3 TRANSPORT ANEK E4 Buses to Souda D4 Europrent C4 Hellenic Seaways C5 KTEL Bus Station C5 Olympic Airways F6 CRETE Konstandinoupoleos Markou Botsari Botsari Kornarou Solomou To Hospital (4km) To Souda (9km); Rethymno (57km); Iraklio (142km)

249 490 WESTERN CRETE Hania Book accommodation online at WESTERN CRETE Hania 491 CRETE Tours Boat excursions from the harbour take you to the nearby islands of Agii Theodorou and Lazaretto and the Gulf of Hania. The M/S Irini (% ; cruises 15, sunset cruises 8, children under 7 free) runs daily cruises on a lovely 1930s cruiser, including free snorkelling gear, and sunset cruises with complimentary fruit and raki. Several operators offer pathetically short half- or one-hour cruises or rides on murky glass bottomed boats, but they are hardly worth it. Sleeping BUDGET Hania Camping (% ; camhania@otenet.gr; Agii Apostoli; caravan/camp sites per adult/tent 7/5/4; s), 3km west of town on the beach, is shaded and has a restaurant, bar and minimarket and pool. Take a Kalamaki bus (every 15 minutes) from the southeast corner of Pension Lena (% ; lenachania@hotmail.com; Ritsou 5; s/d 35/55; a) Lena s is a friendly, cosy pension in an old Turkish building. It has an old-world feel and a scattering of antiques, though the front rooms are the most appealing. Pension Theresa (%/fax ; Angelou 2; r 40-50; a) This creaky old house with a steep spiral staircase and antique furniture is the most atmospheric pension in Hania. It attracts many artists and writers and it can be hard to score a room. Some rooms have a view, but there s always the stunning vista from the rooftop terrace where you can use the communal kitchen. The rooms have TV, air-con and lofts with an extra bed, though some are on the tight side. Monastiri Pension (%/fax ; Agiou Markou 18 & Kanevarou; d & tr 40-55; a) The stone arched entry and antique family furniture in the communal area give this older-style budget place a certain charm. Bathrooms are a basic addon, but the rooms have a fridge, some have air-con and the front rooms have balconies with sea views. MIDRANGE Vranas Studios (% ; Agion Deka 10; studio 40-70; a) This place is on a lively pedestrian street and has spacious, immaculately maintained studios with kitchenettes. All rooms have polished wooden floors, balconies, TVs and telephones. Air-con is also available and there s a handy internet café attached. Ifigenia Rooms & Studios (% ; Gamba 23 & Parodos Agelou; studio ; a) This network of six refurbished houses around the Venetian port offers a range of options from simple rooms to fancy suites with kitchenettes, Jacuzzis and views. Some bathrooms are very basic, the décor a little contrived and the renovations not always sympathetic. Madonna Studios & Apartments (% ; madonnastudios@yahoo.co.uk; Gamba 33; studio ; a) This charming pension has five attractive and well-appointed studios around a lovely flower-filled courtyard. They are furnished in traditional style. The front top room has a superb balcony, while the courtyard room has the original stone wash trough. Porto de Colombo (% ; colompo@otenet.gr; Theofanous & Moschon; d/ste incl breakfast 84/103; a) The Venetian mansion that was once the French embassy and office of Eleftherios Venizelos is now a charming boutique hotel with 10 lovely, well-appointed rooms; the top suites have fine harbour views. Nostos Hotel (% ; Zambeliou 42-46; s/d/tr incl breakfast 60/80/120; a) Mixing Venetian style and modern fixtures, this 600-year-old building has been remodelled into split-level rooms all with kitchenette and phone and there s a roof garden. Try to get a balcony room with harbour views. Ionas Hotel (% ; Sarpaki & Sorvolou; d incl buffet breakfast 50-80, ste incl buffet breakfast 120; a) This is one of the new breed of boutique hotels in the quiet Splantzia quarter. The historic building has a contemporary design and fit-out and the nine rooms with all the mod-cons and a small terrace on the roof. TOP END Amphora Hotel (% ; Parodos Theotokopoulou 20; d with view 120, ste 145; a) This historically evocative hotel is in an immaculately restored and kept Venetian mansion and in a second connected wing. The rooms are elegantly decorated and the best rooms are in the main building with views of the harbour. Front rooms can be noisy in the summer. There are cheaper rooms without a view and they could all do with a fridge. Breakfast is 10. ocasa Leone (% ; -leone.com; Parodos Theotokopoulou 18; s & d incl breakfast ; a) This Venetian residence has been converted into a classy and romantic boutique hotel. The rooms are spacious and well appointed, with balconies overlooking the harbour. Casa Delfino (% ; Theofanous 7; d & apt incl buffet breakfast ; a) This elegant 17th-century mansion is the most luxurious hotel in the Old Town. Breakfast is in the splendid pebble-mosaic courtyard. Eating Hania has some of the finest restaurants in Crete. Most of the prime-position waterfront tavernas are predictably mediocre, overpriced and fronted by annoying touts. Head for the back streets, where some of the best tavernas are housed in roofless Venetian ruins. BUDGET Doloma (% ; Kalergon 8; mayirefta ; hmon-sat) This unpretentious taverna is halfhidden amid the vines and foliage that surround the outdoor terrace at the far end of the harbour. The traditional cooking is faultless. Michelas (% ; mains 5-7; h10am- 4pm Mon-Sat) Near the meat section of the food market (see p492 ), Michelas has been serving great fresh, and cheap, traditional cuisine for 75 years. Tamam (% ; Zambeliou 49; mains ) Housed in old Turkish baths, Tamam presents a superb selection of vegetarian specialities and eastern influenced dishes. The Tamam salad is excellent and the Beyendi chicken with creamy aubergine purée a favourite. MIDRANGE oportes (% ; Portou 48; mains ) Affable Susanna from Limerick cooks up Cretan treats with a difference at this superb restaurant in a quiet street in the Old Town. Try her divine gavros (marinated anchovies) or stuffed fish baked in paper or the tasty meatballs with leek and tomato. To Karnagio (% ; Katehaki 8; Cretan specials ) is a popular place with outdoor tables near the Great Arsenal. There is a good range of seafood (try the grilled cuttlefish) and classic Cretan dishes, plus a fine wine list. Mesogeiako (% ; Daliani 36; mezedhes ) This promising newcomer near the minaret in the revitalised Spantzia quarter is a trendy mezedhopoleio serving an array of classic and more creative dishes. Try the pork meatballs and excellent raki. Ela (% ; Kondylaki 47; mains ; hnoon-1am) This 14th-century building was a soap factory, then a school, distillery and cheese-processing plant. Now Ela serves up a decent array of Cretan specialities, such as goat with artichokes, while musicians create a lively ambience. The tacky board outside tells you it s in every guidebook but the accolades are not undeserved. Pigadi tou Tourkou (% ; Sarpaki 1-3; mains ; hdinner, closed Mon-Tue) Features from this former steam-bath, including the well it is named after (Well of the Turk), are incorporated into the design of this popular restaurant, which has tantalising dishes inspired by Crete, Morocco and the Middle East. The service can be patchy and prices have crept up. Apostolis I & II Taverna (% ; Akti Enoseos; fish per kg up to 55) In the quieter eastern harbour, this is a well-respected place for fresh fish and Cretan dishes in two separate buildings. Apostolis II is the more popular as the owner reigns there, but the original has the same menu at marginally cheaper prices. A seafood platter for two, including salad, is 30. Also recommended is the excellent Amphora restaurant below the hotel (see opposite ). Entertainment The harbour s lively waterfront bars and clubs are mostly patronised by tourists. Party animals head to the clubs in Platanias and Agia Marina, 11km west of Hania, but there are some lively bars in the Old Town. Synagogi (% ; Skoufou 15) Housed in a roofless Venetian building that was once a synagogue, this is the favourite haunt of young locals. Fagotto Jazz Bar (% ; Angelou 16; h7pm-2am Jul-May) A Hania institution housed in a restored Venetian building playing jazz and light rock and blues. Check out the saxophone beer tap. Fortezza (% ) This café, bar and restaurant, installed in the old Venetian ramparts across the harbour, is a good place for a sunset drink. A regular free barge will save you the walk. The arty café/bar Ta Duo Lux (% ; Sarpidona 8; h10am-late) remains a perennial CRETE

250 492 WESTERN CRETE Hania WESTERN CRETE Akrotiri Peninsula 493 CRETE favourite hangout for younger crowds and is popular day and night, while the roughand-ready Café Kriti (% ; Kalergon 22; h8pm-late) has live Cretan music. Shopping Hania offers the best combination of souvenir hunting and shopping for crafts on the island, with many local artisans at work in their stores. The best shops are along Zambeliou and Theotokopoulou. Skrydlof is leather lane, and the central market is well worth a look. Hania s magnificent covered food market is worth a visit even if you don t want to shop. Carmela (% ; Angelou 7) This exquisite store has a tempting array of original jewellery designs as well as Carmela s unique ceramics using ancient techniques. It also has jewellery and ceramics by leading Greek artists. Paraoro (% ; Theotokopoulou 16) Stamatis Fasoularis distinctive series of metal boats are functional as well as decorative, like his nifty steamship oil-burner. This workshop also has unique ceramics by artist Yiorgos Vavatsis, including his trademark skewed drinkware. Their bigger gallery pieces are exhibited upstairs. Roka Carpets (% ; Zambeliou 61) You can watch the charming Mihalis Manousakis weave his wondrous rugs on a 400-year-old loom. This is one of the few places in Crete where you can buy genuine, hand-woven goods. Miden Agan (% ; Daskalogianni 70; h10am-3.30 Mon & Wed, 10am-2.15pm & pm Tue & Thu-Sat) Foodies and wine lovers will be delighted with the range at this excellent shop that sells its own wine and liquors, along with over 800 Greek wines. There is a wide variety of local gourmet delights. Getting There & Away AIR Hania s airport (CHQ) is 14km east of town on the Akrotiri Peninsula. Olympic Airlines (% ; lines.com; Tzanakaki 88) operates five daily flights to/ from Athens ( 76 to 106) and four flights per week to/from Thessaloniki ( 126 to 136). Aegean Airlines (% ; has four daily flights to Athens ( 76 to 123) and one to Thessaloniki ( 125 to 135). Sky Express (% ; This newcomer operates daily flights from Hania to Rhodes on 18-seater planes (from 104, one hour). BUS In summer, buses depart from Hania s bus station (% ) during the week for the following destinations. BUS SERVICES FROM HANIA Destination Duration Fare Frequency Elafonisi 2½ hr daily Falasarna 1½ hr daily Hora Sfakion 1 hr 40min daily Iraklio 2¾ hr half-hourly Kissamos-Kastelli 1 hr 4 13 daily Moni Agias Triadas 30 min 2 2 daily Omalos 1 hr daily (for Samaria Gorge) Paleohora 1 hr 50min daily Rethymno 1 hr 6 half-hourly Sougia 1 hr 50min daily Stavros 30 min daily CATAMARAN & FERRY Hania s main port is at Souda, about 7km southeast of town. There are frequent buses to Hania ( 1.15), as well as taxis ( 7). ANEK (% ; Sofokli Venizelou) has a daily boat at 9pm from Piraeus to Hania ( 30, nine hours) and at 8pm from Hania to Piraeus. In July and August there is also a morning ferry from Piraeus ( 30). Hellenic Seaways (% ; ways.gr; ) has a high-speed catamaran service that takes only 4½ hours ( 53). It s a better option for getting to Hania as it arrives at 8.30pm, but it returns to Athens rather inconveniently at 2am. Port Police (% ) can provide ferry information. Getting Around There are three buses a day to the airport ( 2, 20 mins). A taxi to the airport will cost about 18. Local blue buses (% ) meet the ferries at the port of Souda, just near the dock. In Hania, the bus to Souda ( 1.15) leaves from outside the food market, and buses for the western beaches leave from the main bus station on Most motorcycle-hire outlets are on Halidon, but the companies at Agia Marina are competitive and can bring cars to Hania. Most of the old town is pedestrian only. The best place to park is in the free parking area near the Firkas Fortress (turn right off Skalidi at the sign to the big supermarket car park and follow the road down to the waterfront). Europrent (% ; Halidon 87) Tellus Travel (% ; Halidon 108) AKROTIRI PENINSULA ΧΕΡΣΟΝΗΣΟΣ ΑΚΡΩΤΗΡΙ The Akrotiri (ahk-ro-tee-rih) Peninsula, to the northeast of Hania, has a few places of fairly minor interest, Hania s airport, port and a military base. There is an immaculate military cemetery at Souda, where about 1500 British, Australian and New Zealand soldiers who lost their lives in the Battle of Crete are buried. The buses to Souda port from outside the Hania food market can drop you at the cemetery. Almost at the northern tip of the peninsula is the lovely sandy beach of Stavros, famous as the dramatic backdrop for the final dancing scene in the classic film Zorba the Greek. There are two working monasteries on the Akrotiri Peninsula. The more visitor-friendly is the impressive 17th-century Moni Agias Triadas (% ; admission 2; h8am-7pm), which was founded by the Venetian monks Jeremiah and Laurentio Giancarolo, converts to the Orthodox faith. A small store sells the monastery s fine wine, oil and raki. The 16th-century Moni Gouvernetou (% ; h9am-midday & 5-7pm Mon, Tue & Thu, Sat & Sun 5am-11am & 5-8pm) is 4km north of Moni Agias Triada. The church inside the monastery has an ornate sculptured Venetian façade. There are six buses daily to Stavros beach ( 1.80) and two buses weekdays to Moni Agias Triadas ( 2, 40 minutes). If you re driving, follow signs to the airport and branch off at the signposted turnoff. HANIA TO XYLOSKALO ΧΑΝΙΑ ΠΡΟΣ ΞΥΛΟΣΚΑΛΟ The road from Hania to the beginning of the Samaria Gorge is one of the most spectacular routes on Crete. It heads through orange groves to the village of Fournes where a left fork leads to Meskla. The main road continues to the village of Lakki, 24km from Hania. This unspoilt village in the Lefka Ori Mountains affords stunning views wherever you look. The village was a centre of resistance during the uprising against the Turks, and during WWII. From Lakki, the road continues to Omalos and Xyloskalo, the start of the Samaria Gorge. A number of hikers choose to stay at Omalos in order to make the earliest start possible. The big stone-built Hotel Exari (% ; s/d 20/30) has pleasant, wellfurnished rooms with TV, bathtub and balconies. The owner Yiorgos will give walkers lifts to the start of the Samaria Gorge and can deliver luggage to Sougia for groups. There is an attached taverna. Rooms at the friendly Hotel Gingilos (% ; s/d/tr 20/25/35) are rather sparse, but are large (the triples are huge), clean and have tasteful timber furniture. There is a communal balcony and a taverna downstairs. The Hania EOS (Greek Mountaineering Club) maintains the Kallergi Hut (% ; dm members/nonmembers 10/13), located in the hills between Omalos and the Samaria Gorge. It makes a good base for exploring Mt Gingilos and surrounding peaks. SAMARIA GORGE ΦΑΡΑΓΓΙ ΤΗΣ ΣΑΜΑΡΙΑΣ Despite the crowds who tramp through the Samaria Gorge (% ; admission 5; h6am- 3pm May mid-oct), a trek through this stupendous gorge is still an experience to remember. At 16km, the Samaria (sah-mah-rih-ah) Gorge is supposedly the longest in Europe. It begins just below the Omalos Plateau, carved out by the river that flows between the peaks of Avlimanakou (1857m) and Volakias (2116m). Its width varies from 150m to 3m and its vertical walls reach 500m at their highest points. The gorge has an incredible number of wild flowers, which are at their best in April and May. It is also home to a large number of endangered species, including the Cretan wild goat, the kri-kri, which survives in the wild only here and on the islet of Kri-Kri, off the coast of Agios Nikolaos. The gorge was made a national park in 1962 to save the kri-kri from extinction. You are unlikely to see too many of these shy animals, which show a marked aversion to trekkers. An early start (before 8am) helps to avoid the worst of the crowds, but even the early bus from Hania to the top of the gorge can be packed. There s no spending the night in the gorge so you must complete the hike in the time allocated. CRETE

251 494 WESTERN CRETE Agia Roumeli WESTERN CRETE Hora Sfakion 495 CRETE The trek from Xyloskalo, the name of the steep stone pathway with wooden rails that gives access to the gorge, to Agia Roumeli takes from between 4½ hours for the sprinters to six hours for the strollers. Early in the season it s sometimes necessary to wade through the stream. Later, as the flow drops, it s possible to use rocks as stepping stones. The gorge is wide and open for the first 6km, until you reach the abandoned settlement of Samaria. The inhabitants were relocated when the gorge became a national park. Just south of the village is a small church dedicated to Saint Maria of Egypt, after whom the gorge is named. The gorge then narrows and becomes more dramatic until, at the 11km mark, the walls are only 3.5m apart the famous Iron Gates (Sidiroportes). Here a rickety wooden pathway leads trekkers the 20m or so over the water and through to the other side. The gorge ends at the 12.5km mark just north of the almost abandoned village of Old Agia Roumeli. From here it s a further uninteresting 2km hike to the welcoming seaside resort of Agia Roumeli, where most hikers end up taking a refreshing dip in the sea. Getting There & Away There are excursions to the Samaria Gorge from every sizable town and resort on Crete. Samaria Gorge Long Way is the regular trek from Omalos and Samaria Gorge Easy Way starts at Agia Roumeli and takes you up as far as the Iron Gates. Obviously it s cheaper to trek the Samaria Gorge under your own steam. Hania is the most convenient base. There are buses to Xyloskalo (Omalos; 5.90, 1½ hours) at 6.15am, 7.30am, and 8.30am. There s also a direct bus to Xyloskalo from Paleohora ( 5.50, 1½ hours) at 6.15am. AGIA ROUMELI ΑΓΙΑ ΡΟΥΜΕΛΗ pop 121 These days most travellers just pass through Agia Roumeli waiting to catch the boat to Hora Sfakion. It s pleasant enough for a stopover, although the surrounding mountains can make it very hot and stifling. If you ve just trekked through the gorge and you re in no hurry to leave, there are quite a few decent places to stay and eat. Farangi Restaurant (% ; mains ) has excellent Cretan specials and there are some tidy rooms (d/tr 30/35; a) above the restaurant. Gigilos Taverna & Rooms (% ; gigilos@mycosmos.gr; s/d/tr 25/35/40;a) on the beach at the western end of the village are clean and nicely furnished, with decent new bathrooms and a communal fridge. The taverna has a huge shady deck on the beach. Meals cost 4 to 7 for mains. There are two afternoon boats daily (3.45pm and 6pm) from Agia Roumeli to Hora Sfakion ( 7.50, one hour) via Loutro ( 5, 45 minutes) that connect with the bus back to Hania, as well as a morning boat from Paleohora to Hora Sfakion. You can also head west to Paleohora ( 11, 1½ hours) at 4.45pm, via Sougia ( 6.30, 45 minutes). The ticket office (% ) is near the port. LOUTRO ΛΟΥΤΡΟ The former fishing village of Loutro, between Agia Roumeli and Hora Sfakion, is little more than a crescent of white-andblue domatia around a tiny beach. It s a tiny, pleasant, lazy resort that is never overwhelmed with visitors, although it can get busy in July and August. Loutro is the only natural harbour on the south coast of Crete and is only accessible by boat or on foot. The absence of cars and bikes makes it quiet and peaceful. A SHORT SURVIVAL GUIDE TO THE GORGE The Samaria gorge is not a walk in the park and you should only attempt it if you have a reasonable level of fitness. If you find that the going is too tough within the first hour, there are park wardens with donkeys who will take you back to the beginning. Rugged footwear is essential for walking on the uneven ground, which is covered by sharp stones. Don t attempt the walk in unsuitable footwear you will regret it. Take a hat and sunscreen, plus a small bottle of water that can be refilled along the way in the many springs spurting cool water (it s inadvisable to drink water from the main stream). Bring energy food to snack on. Be wary of falling rocks, which have caused fatalities. Given the captive market, the tavernas that line the waterfront in Loutro are surprisingly good. The Blue House (% ; bluehouseloutro@ chania-cci.gr; d 40-45;a) has a mix of spacious, well-appointed rooms with big verandas overlooking the port. The nicer rooms are in the refurbished top floor section. The taverna downstairs serves excellent mayirefta ( 5 to 7), including delicious garlicky spinach and a great boureki (zucchini, potato and goat s cheese bake). HORA SFAKION ΧΩΡΑ ΣΦΑΚΙΩΝ pop 351 Hora Sfakion (ho-rah sfah-kee-on) is a small coastal port where hordes of walkers from the Samaria Gorge spill off the boats from Agia Roumeli. Most people pause only long enough to catch the next bus out. Hora Sfakion does however have some decent sleeping and eating options, and is a convenient base for heading westwards to other resorts or taking a ferry to Gavdos. Hora Sfakion played a prominent role during WWII when thousands of Allied troops were evacuated by sea from the town after the Battle of Crete. The ferry quay is at the eastern side of the harbour. Buses leave from the square up the hill on the eastern side. There is one ATM. The post office is on the square. Up the steps at the western end of the port, Rooms Stavris (% ; stavris@sfakiacrete.com; s/d 21/24; a) has clean, basic rooms some with kitchenettes and fridges and there were plans to refurbish them. The best value rooms in town are in Xenia (% ; fax ; d 33/38; a), a refurbished hotel well-positioned at the western edge of town. The rooms in the main building are a little cramped but those in the modern wing are spacious and enjoy a superb seafront position. Getting There & Away BUS There are four buses a day from Hora Sfakion to Hania ( 6.50, two hours) the afternoon buses at 5.30pm and 7pm wait for the boats from Agia Roumeli. In summer there are two daily buses to Rethymno via Vryses ( 6.50, 1 hour). There are two buses daily to Frangokastello ( 1.50, 25 minutes). FERRY Boat tickets are sold in the booth (% ) in the car park. From June through August there is a daily boat from Hora Sfakion to Paleohora ( 11, three hours) via Loutro, Agia Roumeli and Sougia. There are four additional boats between Hora Sfakion and Agia Roumeli ( 7.50, one hour) via Loutro ( 4, 15 minutes). From 1 June there are boats ( 12, 1½ hours) to Gavdos island (see p499 ) on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. AROUND HORA SFAKION The road from Vryses to Hora Sfakion cuts through the heart of the Sfakia region in the eastern Lefka Ori. The inhabitants of this region have long had a reputation for fearlessness and independence characteristics they retain to this day. One of Crete s most celebrated heroes, Ioannis Daskalogiannis, was from Sfakia. In 1770 Daskalogiannis led the first Cretan insurrection against Ottoman rule. When help promised by Russia failed to materialise, he gave himself up to the Turks to save his followers. The Turks skinned him alive in Iraklio. The Turks never succeeded in controlling the Sfakiots, and this rugged mountainous region was the scene of fierce fighting. The village of Imbros, 23km from Vryses, is at the head of the beautiful 8km Imbros Gorge (admission 2), which is far less visited than the Samaria Gorge. To get there, take any bus bound for Hora Sfakion from the north coast and get off at Imbros. Walk out of the village towards Hora Sfakion and a path to the left leads down to the gorge. The gorge path ends at the village of Komitades, from where you can walk 5km or take a taxi to Hora Sfakion ( 17 to 20). FRANGOKASTELLO ΦΡΑΓΚΟΚΑΣΤΕΛΛΟ pop 153 Frangokastello is a magnificent 14th-century fortress on the coast 15km east of Hora Sfakion. It was built by the Venetians as a defence against pirates and rebel Sfakiots, who resented the Venetian occupation as much as they did the Turkish. On 17 May 1828 many Cretan rebels were killed here by the Turks. Legend has it that at dawn each anniversary their ghosts, the CRETE

252 496 WESTERN CRETE Sougia Book accommodation online at WESTERN CRETE Paleohora 497 CRETE drosoulites, can be seen marching along the beach. The wide, packed white-sand beach beneath the fortress slopes gradually into shallow warm water, making it ideal for kids. Most accommodation is set back from the shore, leaving the area s natural beauty largely untouched. Frangokastello is popular with day-trippers, but it is a peaceful retreat. Oasis (%/fax ; mains ), is an excellent family-run taverna and accommodation complex at the western end of Frangokastello, which has spacious rooms with full-size kitchens set in a lovely garden. You can walk to a quiet stretch of beach. The taverna has an extensive menu of well-executed Cretan dishes. Two daily buses from Hora Sfakion stop at Frangokastello ( 1.50). SOUGIA ΣΟΥΓΙΑ pop 109 Sougia (soo-yah), 67km from Hania, is a tiny laid-back beach resort with a wide curve of sand-and-pebble beach and a tree-lined coastal road. Sougia s tranquillity has been preserved largely because of archaeological remains at the eastern end of the beach which prohibit development. It lies at the foot of a narrow, twisting road that also deters most tour buses and passing traffic. There are a few small complexes of rooms, a few tavernas, a couple of lazy beach bars, two beach clubs and a small settlement of campers and nudists at the eastern end of the beach. Information There is an ATM next to Taverna Galini Sougia but no post office. The bus stop is outside the Santa Irene Hotel. Check out for more accommodation options. Internet Lotos (% ; per hr 3) is open from 7am until late. Sleeping Aretousa (% ; fax ; s/d/studio 35/40/42; a) This lovely pension on the road to Hania has bright and comfortable refurbished rooms with new beds and linen, flat screen TVs, as well as studios with kitchenettes. Rooms Ririka (% ; s/d 35/40; a) Has small but homey rooms right on the eastern side of the beach over a lovely garden courtyard. Captain George (% ; g-gentek@otenet.gr; r/studio/tr 35/40/48; a) Attractive, good value rooms and studios in a lovely garden with a resident kri-kri. The owner runs taxiboat trips to nearby Lissos and other beaches. Arhontiko (% ; r 40-50; a) Tucked behind the supermarket, Arhontiko has spacious, attractive new studios and apartments comfortable for longer stays. Eating Taverna Rembetiko (% ; mezes ) This popular taverna has an extensive menu including Cretan dishes such as boureki and stuffed zucchini flowers. It has a great atmosphere and is known for its good Greek music. Polyfimos (% ; mains ; hdinner) Tucked off the Hania road behind the police station, ex-hippy Yianni makes his own oil, wine and raki and even makes dolmadhes (vine leaves stuffed with rice and sometimes meat) from the vines that cover the shady courtyard. The food is excellent and service from the affable Savvas delightful. Kyma (% ; meat dishes ) On the beach, this has a good selection of mayirefta and fresh fish. Also recommended are the internationalstyle cuisine and French-run Omikron, towards the eastern end of the beach; and the Livykon taverna at the western end of the beach. Getting There & Away There s a daily bus travelling from Hania to Sougia ( 6.10, one hour and 50 mins). Sougia is also on the Paleohora Hora Sfakion boat route. Boats leave in the morning for Agia Roumeli ( 6.30, 1¾ hours), Loutro ( 10, 1½ hours) and Hora Sfakion ( 11, 1¾ hours). For Paleohora ( 7, one hour) to the west there is a departure at 5.15pm. PALEOHORA ΠΑΛΑΙΟΧΩΡΑ pop 2213 Paleohora (pal-ee-o-hor-a) was discovered by hippies back in the 1960s and from then on its days as a tranquil fishing village were numbered. Despite the midsized hotels and package tourists, the place is still appealing and retains a certain laid-back feel. The number of backpackers is dwindling and it has become more of a family destination, though it gets livelier in the peak of summer. It is also the only beach resort on Crete that does not go into total hibernation in winter. The little town lies on a narrow peninsula with a long, curving tamarisk-shaded sandy beach exposed to the wind on one side, and a sheltered pebbly beach on the other. On summer evenings the main street and beach road is closed to traffic and the tavernas move onto the road. Orientation & Information Paleohora s main street, Eleftheriou Venizelou, runs north south. There are three ATMs and a laundry on the main drag. The post office is at the northern end of Pahia Ammos beach. Boats leave from the old harbour at the southern end of the beach. PALEOHORA 14 To Grammeno (5km); Koundoura (7km) Pahia Ammos (Sandy ) School Kondekaki Erato Internet (% ; Eleftheriou Venizelou; per hr 2) Run by the town IT guru. Notos Travel (per hr 2; h8am-10pm) You can also check mail here. Tourist information office (% ; h10am-1pm & 6-9pm Wed-Mon May-Oct) On the beach road near the harbour. Sights & Activities It s worth clambering up the ruins of the 13thcentury Venetian castle for the splendid view of the sea and mountains. The castle was built so the Venetians could keep an eye on the southwestern coast from this commanding hill-top position. There s not much left of the fortress, however, as it was destroyed by the Venetians, the Turks, the pirate Barbarossa To Kissamos-Kastelli (46km); Hania (78km) 19 Eleftheriou Venizelou Einai Yrela To On the Rocks (100m); Haris Studios (200m); Aris Hotel (500m) m miles Old Harbour Libyan Sea 17 To Paleohora Club (1.5km); Camping Paleohora (1.5km) Halikia (Pebble ) 3 Quay SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 18 Venetian Castle... 5 B4 To Sougia; 16 Agia Roumeli; Gavdos SLEEPING Homestay Anonymous... 6 B2 Oriental Bay Rooms... 7 D INFORMATION Erato Internet... 1 C2 Notos Internet... 2 C2 Selino Travel... 3 C3 Tourist Information Office... 4 C2 Tsiskakis Travel...(see 2) EATING Dionysos Taverna... 8 C2 Kyma... 9 D1 Oriental Bay D1 Third Eye B3 To Kiparaki B2 ENTERTAINMENT Cinema Attikon B1 La Jettee A1 Nostos Night Club C2 Skala C3 TRANSPORT Bus Station C1 Ferries to Sougia, Agia Roumeli & Gavdos Island C3 Notos Rentals...(see 2) Taxi Stand C3 CRETE

253 498 WESTERN CRETE Paleohora Book accommodation online at WESTERN CRETE Gavdos 499 CRETE in the 16th century, and later the Germans during WWII. From Paleohora, a six-hour walk along a scenic coastal path leads to Sougia, passing the ancient site of Lissos. You can trek the Samaria and Agia Irini Gorge from Paleohora, either through organised tours or the local KTEL bus service, returning by ferry. Tours Travel agents around town offer dolphinwatching trips ( 16) and day trips to Elafonisi ( 7, one hour). Selino Travel (% ; selino2@otenet.gr) Also sells boat tickets. Tsiskakis Travel (% ; Eleftheriou Venizelou 53) Sleeping Camping Paleohora (% ; camp sites per adult/tent 5/3) This large camping ground is 1.5km northeast of the town. Facilities are a bit primitive, though new management was planning to improve things. Homestay Anonymous (% ; s/d/tr 17/24/28) This excellent small pension has great value rooms with shared cooking facilities in the courtyard garden. The rooms have exposed stone walls and are clean and tastefully furnished. The amiable owner, Manolis, is full of useful information for travellers and his mother next door looks after the place. Rooms can connect to accommodate families. Oriental Bay Rooms (% ; s/d/tr 30/ 35/38; a) These immaculate rooms are in the large modern building at the northern end of Pebble. Rooms have balconies with sea or mountain view and come with kettle and fridge. Haris Studios (% ; days.com; d/apt 45/50; a) Right on the dramatic rocky seafront around from the port, these friendly well-fitted studios are open all year. The top rooms are nicer and have great views. The bathrooms are basic but functional. You could also try the budget rooms and apartments attached to Third Eye restaurant. Eating Dionysos Taverna (% ; mains ) The popular Dionysos is known for top-grade food, particularly its excellent mayirefta. There is a good range of vegetarian dishes and grills. Grammeno (% ; Cretan specials ) For excellent traditional Cretan food it is worth the trip to this spot about 5km west of Paleohora. The menu includes specialities like braised rooster, various wild greens, lamb in vine leaves and tender roast goat. othird Eye (% ; mains 5) It s not just vegetarians who flock to Crete s only vegetarian restaurant, just inland from Pahia Ammos. It has an eclectic menu of curries, salads, pastas and Greek and Asian dishes, and there is live music weekly. Oriental Bay (% ; mains 5-8) This beachside taverna is one of the best options on this side of the village. In addition to a range of cheap vegetarian choices, such as green beans and potatoes, there are dishes such as rooster s kiss (chicken fillet with bacon) and drunk cutlet (pork chop in red wine). To Kiparaki (% ; mains 8-9) Also recommended is the fresh Asian-style food at this Dutch-run place, with only eight tables in the little garden out the back. Kyma (% ; top fish 42kg) One of the better and cheaper places for fresh, local fish run by a fisherman. It has a pleasant setting on the quiet end of the beach, with a few tables outside under the trees. Entertainment Outdoor film screenings start at 10pm at Cinema Attikon (tickets 5). Nostos Night Club (btwn Eleftheriou Venizelou & the Old Harbour) has an outdoor terrace bar and a small indoor club playing Greek and Western music. La Jettee, behind the Villa Marise hotel, is right on the beach and has a lovely garden, while Skala, by the port, is an old-time classic bar. For late-night clubbing, Paleohora Club next to Camping Paleohora used to be popular for all-night, full-moon parties but is now a less-appealing swanky indoor club. There s a shuttle bus from the port. Getting There & Away BUS In summer there are four to six buses a day from the bus station (% ) to Hania ( 6.50, two hours). There is also one daily service to Omalos ( 5.50, 2 hours) for the Samaria Gorge that departs at 6.15am, which also stops at the Agia Irini Gorge ( 4.50). FERRY Boat schedules change year to year so check with travel agents. In summer there is a daily morning ferry from Paleohora to Hora Sfakion ( 14, three hours), via Sougia ( 7, 50 minutes), Agia Roumeli ( 11, 1½ hours) and Loutro ( 13, 2½ hours). The same boat also continues three times a week in summer to Gavdos ( 15, 2½ hours). Getting Around Notos Rentals (% ; notosgr@yahoo.gr; Eleftheriou Venizelou) rents cars, motorcycles and bicycles. GAVDOS ΓΑΥΔΟΣ pop 98 Gavdos, in the Libyan Sea 65km from Paleohora, is the most southerly place in Europe and is the island for those craving total isolation and peace. The island has three tiny villages and lovely, unspoilt beaches, some of which are accessible only by foot or boat. Gavdos attracts a loyal following of campers, nudists and free spirits seeking natural beaches, long walks and laid-back holidays. There are no hotels but quite a few people rent rooms and tavernas. Until the late 1960s Gavdos had little water, electricity or phone lines. While water is now plentiful, there can still be the odd electricity shortages and blackouts. It is wise to take a torch. Strong winds can leave you stranded for days on end, but you won t find too many people complaining. Sarakiniko Studios (% ; studios.gr; d/tr studio incl breakfast 50/60), above Sarakiniko beach, has comfortable studios and new villas sleeping up to five ( 80 to 100). You can be picked up at the port or it is a 20-minute walk north of the port. Services to Gavdos vary throughout the year and can take between 2½ to five hours depending on the boat and other stops, so it can be confusing. The most direct route to Gavdos is from Hora Sfakion on Friday, Saturday and Sunday ( 15, 1½ hours). There are also two boats a week from Paleohora, increasing to three from mid-july to August ( 15), though these services were going via the southern ports and Hora Sfakion making it a long trip. Only some ferries take cars so check if you plan on taking one across. You can rent a bike or car at the port or in Sarakiniko, though be wary that they may not be insured. ELAFONISI ΕΛΑΦΟΝΗΣΙ As one of the loveliest sand beaches in Crete it s easy to understand why people enthuse so much about Elafonisi, at the southern extremity of Crete s west coast. The beach is long and wide and is separated from Elafonisi Islet by about 50m of knee-deep turquoise water on its northern side. The islet is marked by low dunes and a string of semi-secluded coves. Unfortunately it is invaded by busloads of day trippers. There is one boat daily from Paleohora to Elafonisi ( 7, one hour) from mid-june through September that leaves at 10am and returns at 4pm. There are also two buses daily from Hania ( 9.60, 2½ hours) and Kissamos ( 5.90, 1¼ hours) that return in the afternoon. KISSAMOS ΚΙΣΣΑΜΟΣ pop 3821 The north-coast town of Kissamos is near the port that serves the ferry from the Peloponnese or Kythira. Kissamos is a rural working town that neither expects nor attracts much tourism, though many small family hotels have sprouted in recent years. While it is not immediately appealing, it is worth more than a passing glance. The huge Kissamos Bay has some fine pebble and sand beaches, and the almost bucolic feel of the region is a welcome antidote to the bustling Crete further east. There s a string of waterfront tavernas and bars lining the seafront promenade but the place only ever gets busy in August. Kissamos is a good base for walking, touring and unwinding. Cruises to the Gramvousa Peninsula ( p501 ) leave from Kissamos port. In antiquity, Kissamos was the main town of the province of the same name. When the Venetians came and built a castle here, it became known as Kastelli (the name persisted until 1966 when authorities decided that too many people were confusing it with Crete s other Kastelli, near Iraklio). Parts of the castle wall survive to the west of Tzanakaki. Orientation & Information The port is 3km west of town. From June through August a bus meets the boats; otherwise a taxi costs around 4. The CRETE

254 500 WESTERN CRETE Around Kissamos Book accommodation online at EASTERN CRETE Lasithi Plateau 501 CRETE bus station is on the main square, Tzanakaki; and the main commercial street, Skalidi, runs east from Tzanakaki. Kissamos has a reasonably informative website, The post office is on the main through-road, while there are banks with ATMs along Skalidi. Sights & Activities Archaeological Museum of Kissamos (% ; Tzanakaki; h8.30am-3pm; free admission). This new museum in an imposing Venetian-Turkish building on the main square has a well-displayed collection of artefacts unearthed during archaeological digs in the area, including statues, jewellery, coins and a large mosaic floor from a Kissamos villa. Strata Walking Tours (% ; tours.com) offers a range of walking tours for small groups, from leisurely day-trips ( 40 including lunch) to full-on 15-day round trips ( 895) to the south coast. It also runs jeep safaris to interesting off-road destinations ( 40). Sleeping Bikakis Family (% ; Iroön Polemiston 1941; s/d/studio 20/25/30; ai) A great budget option, these rooms and studios sparkle and most have garden and sea views, kitchenettes and extras such as TV, hairdryers and free internet. It maintains a family environment and friendly owner Giannis is a font of local knowledge. There are adjoining rooms for families. Thalassa (% ; Paralia Drapanias; studios 35-55; ai) This isolated complex is an ideal spot to retreat to with a stack of books. The immaculate studios are airy and well-fitted out with irons, hairdryers and ADSL and wi-fi connections. There s a barbecue on the lawn, a small playground and it s just across from the beach, 100m east of Camping Mithymna. Galini (% ; r 38-48) At the eastern end of the beach next to the soccer ground, this well-maintained, friendly, family-run hotel has spacious rooms decorated in cool tones, some with kitchenette, as well as adjoining family rooms. Eating Kellari (% ; Cretan specials ) This well-regarded taverna on the eastern end of the beach strip has an extensive range of Cretan dishes, grills and fresh fish as well as a Greek tasting menu for two ( 16). Owned by the same family that runs Strata Walking Tours, it uses its own meat, wine, oil and other produce. Papadakis (% ; mains ) One of the oldest tavernas in town, this place is well patronised by local diners. The taverna has a very relaxing setting overlooking the beach and serves well-prepared fish dishes such as oven-baked fish ( 6), or fish soup. Also recommended for fine home cooking is Violaki Estiatorio on the main through road and Akroyiali, well signposted east of Kissamos, for excellent fresh fish on the beach. Getting There & Away BUS From Kissamos bus station (% ), there are 14 buses a day to Hania ( 4, 40 minutes), where you can change for Rethymno and Iraklio; two buses a day for Falasarna ( 3, 20 minutes); and one bus a day to Paleohora ( 6.50, 1¼ hours) and Elafonisi ( 5.90, 1¼ hours). FERRY ANEN Ferries operates the F/B Myrtidiotissa on weekends on a route that takes in Antikythira ( 9.40, two hours), Kythira ( 16.40, four hours) and Gythio ( 22.10, five hours). You can buy tickets from Horeftakis Tours (% ) and the ANEN Office (% ; Skalidi). Getting Around Moto Fun (% ; Tzanakaki) rents cars, bikes and mountain bikes. AROUND KISSAMOS Falasarna Φαλάσαρνα pop 21 Falasarna, 16km west of Kissamos, was a Cretan city-state in the 4th century BC but there s not much of the ancient city left to see. It attracts a mixed bunch of travellers due to its long, wide stretch of sandy beach, which is considered one of the best in Crete. It is split up into several coves by rocky spits and is known for its stunning sunsets and the pink hues reflecting from the fine coral in the sand. There is no village, just a scattering of widely spaced rooms and tavernas among the greenhouses that somewhat mar the approach to the beach. Rooms Anastasia-Stathis (% ; fax ; d/apt 40/50; a) Owner Anastasia makes her home the friendliest place to stay. The airy rooms with fridges and large balconies are perfect for stress relief, as Anastasia puts it. Her enormous breakfasts ( 6) are open to all comers and are a sight to be savoured. Galasia Thea (% ; mayirefta ) On the cliff overlooking the great expanse of beach, this place has spectacular views from its huge terrace. There s a big range of baked dishes and mayirefta such as the Sfakiano lemon lamb. From June through August there are three buses daily from Kissamos to Falasarna ( 3) as well as three buses from Hania ( 6.50). Gramvousa Peninsula Χερσόνησος Γραμβούσας North of Falasarna is the wild and remote Gramvousa Peninsula and the stunning sandy beach of Balos on the west side of the peninsula s narrow tip. The idyllic beach is overlooked by the two islets of Agria (wild) and Imeri (tame). The rough but drivable dirt road (best in a 4WD) to Balos begins at the end of the main street of Kalyviani village. The road ends at a car park (with a kantina) from where the path to the beach is a 30-minute walk down the sandy cliffs (45 minutes on the way back up). West-bound buses from Kissamos will let you off at the turn-off for Kalyviani, from where it is a 2km walk to the beginning of the path at the far end of the main street. The shadeless walk to Balos is around 3km wear a hat and take plenty of water. An easier way to get there is via one of the three daily cruises (% ; adult/concession 22/12; h55mins) The morning boats stop at Imeri Gramvousa, which is crowned with a Venetian castle. Departures are at 10am, 10.15am and 1pm and return trips at 5.45pm and 8pm. The trip can be rough if it is windy. EASTERN CRETE Lasithi, Crete s easternmost prefecture, may receive far fewer visitors than the rest of the island, but the exclusive resorts around Elounda and Agios Nikolaos are the stronghold of Crete s high-end tourism. Agios Nikolaos is the region s contribution to the party scene. The fertile Lasithi Plateau, tucked in the Mt Dikti ranges, provides excellent cycling opportunities through quiet rural villages to the Dikteon Cave, where legend has it that Zeus was born. The east s other main attractions are the famous palm forest and beach at Vaï and the remote Minoan palace of Zakros. LASITHI PLATEAU ΟΡΟΠΕΔΙΟ ΛΑΣΙΘΙΟΥ The Lasithi Plateau, 900m above sea level, is a vast expanse of pear and apple orchards, almond trees and fields of crops. It would have been a stunning sight when it was dotted by some 20,000 metal windmills with white canvas sails. They were built in the 17th century to irrigate the rich farmland but there are less than 5000 still standing today and few of the original windmills are in service; most having been replaced by less attractive mechanical pumps. The plateau s rich soil has been cultivated since Minoan times. The inaccessibility of the region made it a hotbed of insurrection during Venetian and Turkish rule. Following an uprising in the 13th century, the Venetians drove out the inhabitants of Lasithi and destroyed their orchards. The plateau lay abandoned for 200 years. Food shortages led the Venetians to cultivate the area and build the irrigation trenches and wells that still service the region. There are 20 villages dotted around the periphery of the plateau, the largest of which is Tzermiado (population 747), with a couple of ATMs and a post office. The town sees a fair amount of tourism from the tour buses going to the Dikteon Cave. The Restaurant Kourites (% ; woodoven specials 7-8; serves excellent Cretan cuisine, including many vegetarian delights. Try some of the wood oven dishes the suckling pig with baked potatoes is delicious. There are simple rooms (single/double including breakfast 25/40) above the taverna with small balconies and you have free use of the bicycles. The same family also runs the lovely Argoulias (% ; d incl breakfast 60-80) complex of stone-built spacious apartments built into the hillside in the abandoned top part of the village, with panoramic views. CRETE

255 502 EASTERN CRETE Agios Nikolaos EASTERN CRETE Agios Nikolaos 503 CRETE In the relaxing village of Agios Georgios (pronounced agh-ios ye-or-gios; population 554), Hotel Maria (% ; s/d 20/25) has nicely decorated rooms with weavings and traditional furnishings (although larger people should note that the beds are very narrow). Maria also does the cooking at Taverna Rea (% ; mains ) on the main street. Psyhro is the closest village to the Dikteon Cave. Its main street has a few tavernas, and plenty of souvenir shops selling authentic rugs and mats of non-cretan origin. It is prettier and less dusty than Tzermiado and makes for a better rest stop. Buses to Psyhro drop you at the end of the town where it s about a kilometre walk uphill to the cave. Petros Taverna (% ; grills 6), opposite the entrance to the cave, is run by former cave guardian Petros Zarvakis. It has great views from the balcony. He also organises regular hikes up to Mt Dikti, camping out under the stars. Dikteon Cave Δικταίον Αντρον Lasithi s major sight is the Dikteon Cave (adult/ child 4/2; h8am-6pm Jun-Oct, 8am-2.30pm Nov-May), just outside Psyhro. Here, according to legend, Rhea hid the newborn Zeus from Cronos, his offspring-gobbling father. The cave covers 2200 sq metres and features both stalactites and stalagmites. It was excavated in 1900 by the British archaeologist David Hogarth, who found numerous votives indicating it was a place of cult worship (on display in the archaeological museum in Iraklio; see p466 for more information). It is a steep 15-minute (800m) walk up to the cave entrance. You can take the fairly rough but shaded track on the right with great views over the plateau or the unshaded paved trail on the left of the car park next to the Chalavro taverna. You can also let a donkey do the hard work ( 10 or 15 return). Getting There & Away From Iraklio there are daily buses to Tzermiado ( 3.50, two hours), Agios Georgios ( 4.70, two hours) and Psyhro. There are also buses to the villages from Agios Nikolaos. AGIOS NIKOLAOS ΑΓΙΟΣ ΝΙΚΟΛΑΟΣ pop 10,080 Lasithi s capital, Agios Nikolaos (ah-yeeos nih-ko-laos), is an undeniably attractive former fishing village set around a pleasant harbour and a small, picturesque lake connected to the sea. In the early 1960s it became a chic hideaway for the likes of Jules Dassin and Walt Disney, but by the end of the decade, package tourists were arriving in force and it became an overdeveloped tourist town. It s had its ups and downs ever since. Agios remains popular, drawing people from nearby resorts at night when the ambience turns more vibrant and cosmopolitan. While there is superficially little to attract the independent traveller, there is reasonable accommodation, prices are not too horrendous and there is enough activity to cater for all tastes. Orientation The bus station (KTEL;% ) has been rather inconveniently relocated to the northwestern side of town, about 800m from the town s centre at Venizelou. The de facto town centre is around the Voulismeni Lake. Most banks, ATMs, travel agencies and shops are on Koundourou and the parallel 28 Oktovriou. Information Anna Karteri Bookshop (% ; Koundourou 5) Well stocked with maps, guide books, literature in English and other languages. General Hospital (% ; Knosou 3) On the west side of town. Municipal Tourist Office (% ; h8am-9pm Apr-Nov) Right by the bridge; changes money and assists with accommodation. National Bank of Greece (Nikolaou Plastira) Has a 24-hour exchange machine. PK s Internet Cafe (% ; Akti Koundourou 1; per hr 2; h9am-2am) Has full printing, burning, Skype and video cams set up. Post office (% ; 28 Oktovriou 9; h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Tourist Police (% ; Erythrou Stavrou 47; h7.30am-2.30pm Mon-Fri) Sights It is well-worth the hike up the hill to the Archaeological Museum (% ; Paleologou Konstantinou 74; admission 4; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun; w), which has an extensive and well-displayed collection from eastern Crete. While it has no major showpiece, it is probably the second most significant Minoan collection and includes clay coffins, ceramic musical AGIOS NIKOLAOS To Neapolis (17km); Iraklio (67km) Ammoudi To Ammoudi (1km); St Nicholas Bay (1.5km); Havania (2km); Elounda (12km) Epimenidou To Almyros (1.5km); Ammoudara (3km); Golden (10km); Istron Bay (11km); Kritsa (12km); Gournia (19km); Ierapetra (36km); Sitia (70km) To Almyros (1km) 26 Kritsas 4 Kornarou Latous Diktis Paleologou Konstantinou Hortatson Anapatseos 10 Idomeneos Municipal Akti Koundourou Korytsas Skordilon Dimokratias Kapetanaki Atlandidas Akti S E A OF C R E T E Erythrou Stavrou 11 Ethnikis Antistaseos Nikonos Nikolaou Davaki Filellinon Kazantzaki Kondogianni Plastira Sofias Venizelou Milatou Stratigou Koraka Pringipos Georgiou Metaxaki Ammos m miles Kondanoleoudos 12 Voulismeni Lake Polytehniou Tavla 25 Kyprou 28 Oktovriou m miles Kondylaki 25 Martiou Voulismeni Lake Plastira Venizelou Kosiri Mirabelou Port See Enlargement INFORMATION Anna Karteri Bookshop... 1 D1 ATM... 2 D1 ATM... 3 D1 General Hospital... 4 B2 Municipal Tourist Office... 5 C3 National Bank of Greece... 6 C2 Peripou Café... 7 D1 PK's Internet... 8 D3 Post Office... 9 C1 Tourist Police B Oktovriou 6 Polytehniou Koundourou M Sfakianaki Akti Koundourou Lasthenous Tselepi K Sfakianaki Myli 20 Akti Ariadnis 25 Martiou Modatsou Saroldi M Sfakianaki Alexomanoli Themistokleous SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Archaeological Museum B2 Children's Playground C3 Folk Museum C3 Minotours Hellas D1 Nostos Tours D1 SLEEPING Du Lac Hotel D1 Mylos Pension D4 Palazzo D3 Pension Mary D4 Pergola Hotel D4 EATING Aouas Taverna C3 Barko D4 Pamtomaca C3 Pelagos C3 Taverna Itanos C4 TRANSPORT Bus Station A2 Club Cars D1 LANE Lines D1 Manolis D CRETE

256 504 EASTERN CRETE Agios Nikolaos Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at EASTERN CRETE Elounda 505 CRETE instruments and gold from the island of Mohlos. The exhibits are arranged in chronological order beginning with Neolithic finds from Mt Tragistalos, north of Kato Zakros, and early Minoan finds from Agia Fotia, then finds from Malia and Mohlos. The highlight is the odd-looking Goddess of Myrtos, a clay jug from 2500 BC found near Myrtos. The folk museum (% ; Paleologou Konstantinou 4; admission 3; h10am-2pm Tue-Sun), next to the municipal tourist office, has a small, welldisplayed collection of traditional handicrafts and costumes. The town beaches of Ammos and Kytroplatia are smallish and can get rather crowded. The sandy beach at Almyros about 1km south of town is the best of the lot and tends to be less crowded than the others. It can be reached on foot via a coastal path starting at the end of the road just past the stadium. Ammoudara, 1.5km further south along the road to Ierapetra, is a little better and supports a fairly busy restaurant and accommodation scene. Or you can venture further along the coastal road towards Sitia to pleasant coves with long stretches of sandy beach and turquoise waters at Golden (Voulisma ) and around Istron Bay. Tours Boat trips to Spinalonga ( 17) include a swim stop on the Kolokytha Peninsula Minotours Hellas (% ; 28 Oktovriou 6) has a range of tours, including guided coach tours of Phaestos, Gortys and Matala ( 33), the Samaria Gorge ( 45), the Lasithi Plateau ( 34) and Knossos ( 30). Sleeping BUDGET & MIDRANGE Pension Mary (% ; Evans 13; s/d/tr 15/25/30; a) This is one of those friendly places where the owner lives downstairs and bonus homemade sweets are almost guaranteed. The rooms are basic but clean and most have private bathrooms, fridge, balconies with some sea views and access to a communal kitchen. The top room is cramped but has a private terrace with barbecue. Breakfast is 5. Pergola Hotel (%/fax ; Sarolidi 20; d with view 20-40; a) This family-run hotel has a homey feel. Rooms are comfortable and all have fridges, TV and air-con. There is a pleasant veranda under a pergola to relax or have breakfast. Front rooms have balconies and sea views. The owners can pick you up from the bus station. Mylos Pension (% ; Sarolidi 24; d 40; a) From the fake flowers on the bed to the family photos and icons on the walls, this quaint pension is an extension of the friendly elderly owner s home. The front rooms have sensational views (try for room 2) and all have a fridge and TV. The sprightly Georgia swears by the hard mattresses. Du Lac Hotel (% ; 28 Oktovriou 17; s/d/studio 40/60/80; a) This refurbished hotel on the lake has standard rooms and spacious, fully fitted-out studios; both have stylish contemporary furnishings and nice bathrooms. It s in a great central location, with lovely views over the lake. TOP END Palazzo (% ; apt ; ai) Opposite Kytroplatia, these classy apartments sleeping up to four people are the closest thing to a boutique hotel in town. It has 10 charming apartments with mosaic-tiled floors and marble bathrooms, and the front rooms have lovely balconies with views. There s free downstairs. Eating The lakeside restaurants, while visually tempting, tend to serve bland and often overpriced tourist Greek food. Head further afield for the genuine article. Taverna Itanos (% ; Kyprou 1; mayirefta 4-9) This place is popular with locals wanting traditional home-style Cretan cooking. You can pick from the trays of excellent mayirefta, such as goat with artichokes or lamb fricassée. Pelagos (% ; Katehaki 10; mezedhes ) For an excellent selection of fresh fish and seafood, this place, in a beautifully restored house with ambient garden, is generally considered the best (and priciest) restaurant in Agios Nikolaos. The mezedhes are excellent. Aouas Taverna (% ; Paleologou Konstantinou 44; mezedhes ) This family-run place on the road to the museum has a range of Cretan specialities such as herb pies and pickled bulbs, as well as tasty grills. The interior is plain but the enclosed garden is refreshing and the mezedhes are good. Barko (% ; Akti Pagalou 8; Cretan dishes ) Has gone upmarket since moving to flashier premises on Kytroplatia. There are still excellent Cretan-style dishes but the menu includes more creative Mediterranean-style cuisine such as a light risotto with pumpkin and anthotyro (Cretan creamcheese). There s a decent wine list. Also recommended as a good budget option is the colourful Catalano-Meditteranean combo at Pamtomaca (% ; Paleologou 52; 7pm-midnight). Getting There & Away BUS Buses leave from Agios Nikolaos bus station (% ) for Elounda ( 1.30, 16 daily), Ierapetra ( 3.30, eight daily), Iraklio ( 6.20, half-hourly), Kritsa ( 1.30, 10 daily) Lasithi Plateau ( 3.50, two daily) and Sitia ( 5.90, seven daily). FERRY LANE Lines (% ; has ferries two times a week from Agios Nikolaos to Piraeus ( 34, cabin 46, 14 hours), via Santorini (five hours, 20.20) and Milos (nine hours, 20.60). There is also a service from Piraeus via Milos to Agios Nikolaos, Sitia, Kasos, Karpathos, Halki and Rhodes. Getting Around Club Cars (% ; 28 Oktovriou 30) rents cars from 32 per day and Manolis (% ; 25 Martiou 12) has a huge range of scooters, motorcycles, quad bikes and top of the range mountain bikes. ELOUNDA ΕΛΟΥΝΤΑ pop 1655 There are magnificent mountain and sea views along the 11km road north from Agios Nikolaos to Elounda (el-oon-da). A cluster of luxury resorts occupy the lovely coves along the coast. The first elite hotel was built here in the mid-1960s, quickly establishing Elounda as the playground for Greece s glitterati and high flyers soon after, the world s rich and famous followed suit. Elounda boasts some of the most exclusive resorts in Greece. Past the resorts, the once-quiet fishing village of Elounda now bristles with package tourists, though it s quieter than neighbouring Agios Nikolaos. Busloads of day-trippers rock up on their way to Spinalonga Island. The pleasant but unremarkable sandy town beach, to the north of the port, can get very crowded. Elounda has limited appeal unless you are lucky enough to be staying in one of the posh resorts. While there are some nice places around, Elounda is not particularly good value in peak season and many hotels are booked out by tour operators. Information Municipal Tourist Office (% ; h8am-11pm Jun-Oct), on the main square, helps with accommodation and information, and changes money. Sleeping & Eating Hotel Aristea (% ; s/d/tr incl breakfast 30/45/55; a) In the town centre is this uninspiring but decent and clean budget option. Most rooms at least have a sea view, double-glazed windows, TV, fridge and hairdryers. Corali Studios (%/fax ; dios.com; studio 60-70; a) On the northern side, about 800m from the clock tower, these handy self-catering studios are set in lush lawns with a shaded patio. Next door and under the same management the spacious apartments at Portobello Apartments (2-/4-bed apt 65-75; a) are a good option for two or three people. Elounda Island Villas (% ; island.gr; d from 70; 4-person r 105;ap) are a secluded option on Kolokytha island, reached along a narrow peninsula. The apartments are set amid a pleasant garden and decorated with traditional furnishings. Kitchens are wellequipped, bathrooms functional and there are split-level living and sleeping areas. There is an attached tavern and it s a 20-minute walk into town. Eating Nikos (% ; fish per kg 35-40) While it lacks the ambience of the seafront eateries, no-frills Nikos on the main street is a good choice for fish and lobster because they generally catch their own. Service can be erratic but the food is good value. Ferryman (% ; local fish platter for 2 44) With a lovely setting on the waterfront, the Ferryman claims its moment of fame from being featured in the TV series Who Pays the Ferryman. The food and service is excellent (they even clean the fish for you), though it is on the pricey side. Its speciality is fish and lobster, but there s a broader menu of Cretan specialities. CRETE

257 506 EASTERN CRETE Spinalonga Island EASTERN CRETE Mohlos 507 CRETE Megaro (% ; top fish per kg 45; mains 4-8) This recently refurbished place on the corner of the square is popular with locals around the district. The owner is a fisherman and the menu also includes Cretan specials. Getting There & Away Boats go across to Spinalonga every half-hour (adult/child 10/5). There are 13 buses daily from Agios Nikolaos to Elounda ( 1.30, 20 minutes). SPINALONGA ISLAND ΝΗΣΟΣ ΣΠΙΝΑΛΟΓΚΑΣ Spinalonga Island lies just north of the Kolokytha Peninsula. The island s massive fortress (% ; admission 2; h10am-6pm) was built by the Venetians in 1579 to protect Elounda Bay and the Gulf of Mirabello. It withstood Turkish sieges for longer than any other Cretan stronghold, finally surrendering in 1715, some 30 years after the rest of Crete. The Turks used the island as a base for smuggling. Following the reunion of Crete with Greece, Spinalonga Island became a leper colony. The last leper died here in 1953 and the island has been uninhabited ever since. It is still known among locals as the island of the living dead. The island is a fascinating place to explore. It has an aura that is both macabre and poignant. Regular excursion boats visit Spinalonga from Agios Nikolaos ( 17) with Minotours Hellas (see p504 ); ferries leave from Elounda ( 10) or you could also take a cheaper boat from Plaka (5km further north). KRITSA ΚΡΙΤΣΑ pop 1614 The village of Kritsa (krit-sah), perched 600m up the mountainside 11km from Agios Nikolaos, is a pretty mountain village renowned for its strong tradition of needlework and weaving. The village has morphed into a bit of a tourist attraction, with busloads of day trippers swarming through the streets all summer and villagers are eager to exploit these invasions to the full. It creates a colourful atmosphere but not much of the stuff on sale is handmade these days and few of the rug designs are authentic. It s still possible to find the traditional geometric designs of Crete and the odd finely crocheted blankets and tablecloths, but they are becoming a rarity. On the way to Kritsa, about 1km before the village, it is worth stopping at the tiny, tripleaisled Church of Panagia Kera (% ; admission 3; h8.30am-3pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-2pm Sat). The frescoes that cover its interior walls are considered the most outstanding examples of Byzantine art in Crete. The taverna/kafeneio Platanos (% ; mains ) retains a traditional feel and has a lovely setting under a giant plane tree and vine canopy. There s a standard menu but it s well regarded by locals. There are hourly buses from Agios Nikolaos to Kritsa ( 1.30, 15 minutes). ANCIENT LATO ΑΡΧΑΙΑ ΛΑΤΩ The ancient city of Lato (admission 2; h8.30am- 3pm Tue-Sun), 4km north of Kritsa, is one of Crete s few non-minoan ancient sites. Lato (lah-to) was founded in the 7th century BC by the Dorians and at its height was one of the most powerful cities in Crete. It sprawls over the slopes of two acropolises in a lonely mountain setting, commanding stunning views down to the Gulf of Mirabello. The city s name derived from the goddess Leto whose union with Zeus produced Artemis and Apollo, both of whom were worshipped here. In the centre of the site is a deep well, which is cordoned off. As you face the Gulf of Mirabello, to the left of the well are some steps which are the remains of a theatre. Above the theatre was the prytaneion, where the city s governing body met. The circle of stones behind the well was a threshing floor. The columns next to it are the remains of a stoa which stood in the agora. There are remains of a pebble mosaic nearby. A path to the right leads up to the Temple of Apollo. There are no buses to Lato. The road to the site is signposted to the right on the approach to Kritsa. If you don t have your own transport, it s a pleasant 4km walk through olive groves. GOURNIA ΓΟΥΡΝΙΑ The important Minoan site of Gournia (% ; admission 2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), pronounced goor-nyah, lies just off the coast road, 19km southeast of Agios Nikolaos. The ruins, which date from 1550 to 1450 BC, consist of a town overlooked by a small palace. The palace was far less ostentatious than the ones at Knossos and Phaestos, because it was the residence of an overlord rather than a king. The town is a network of streets and stairways flanked by houses with walls up to 2m in height. Trade, domestic and agricultural implements found on the site indicate Gournia was a thriving little community. Gournia is on the Sitia and Ierapetra bus routes from Agios Nikolaos and buses can drop you at the site. MOHLOS ΜΟΧΛΟΣ pop 91 Mohlos (moh-los) is a pretty fishing village reached by a 5km winding road from the Sitia Agios Nikolaos highway. In antiquity, it was joined to the eponymous island that now sits 200m offshore and was once a thriving Early Minoan community dating from the period BC. Excavations still continue sporadically on both Mohlos Island and at Mohlos village. A short description of the archaeology of the area is presented on an information board overlooking the tiny harbour. Mohlos is a chill-out place with simple accommodation, plenty of good walks and interesting villages to explore nearby. There is a small pebble-and-grey-sand beach where swimming is reasonable. Beware of strong currents further out in the small strait between the island and the village. The tavernas enjoy a good reputation for fresh local fish and seafood, and attract many Cretans on weekends. There are few facilities other than a couple of gift shops and a minimarket. There was, however, at the time of researching this book, an ominous construction frenzy evident nearby that did not bode well for peaceful Mohlos. Hotel Sofia (%/fax ; r 35-45; a) The rooms above the taverna have been spruced up with new furniture and bedding, and all have TV and fridge, but are rather cramped. The front rooms have balconies with sea views. Try the excellent home cooking at the taverna. Kyma (% ; soik@in.gr; studio 30) Fairly well signposted on the village s western side near a supermarket, the self-contained studios are spotless and good value. Ta Kochilia (% ; Cretan specials ) This excellent place has superb views and is known for its fresh fish and simple, good food. Seafood lovers should try the sea-urchin salad dip your bread in it or the cuttlefish in black ink. Also recommended is To Bogazi (% ; mezedhes ). There is no public transport to Mohlos. Buses between Sitia and Agios Nikolaos will drop you off at the Mohlos turn-off. From there you ll need to hitch or walk the 6km to Mohlos village. SITIA ΣΗΤΕΙΑ pop 8238 Sitia (si-tee-ah) is quieter than the prefecture capital Agios Nikolaos, though it can get busy in summer with a mainly domestic crowd. While the town is traveller-friendly, it exists for the locals, who live from agriculture and commerce rather than tourism. A sandy beach skirts a wide bay to the east of town. The main town is terraced up a hillside, overlooking the port. It has a pleasing mixture of new and fading Venetian architecture, while its attractive harbour-side promenade lined with tavernas and cafés makes for a pleasant evening stroll. Even at the height of the season the town has a relatively laidback feel compared with the commercialism further west. It also makes a good jumping-off point for the Dodecanese. Orientation & Information The town s main square is Iroon Polytehniou. There are ATMs and places to change money in town. The bus station is at the eastern end of Karamanli, which runs behind the bay. Ferries dock about 500m north of Agnostou. Akasti Travel (% ; Kornarou & Metaxaki 4) Good source of information. Java Internet Cafe (% ; Kornarou 113; h9am-late). National Bank of Greece ( Iroon Polytehniou) Has a 24-hour exchange machine. Post office (Dimokritou; h7.30am-3pm) To get here, follow El Venizelou inland and take the first left. Tourist office (% ; Karamanli; h9.30am-2.30pm & pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-2.30pm Sat) On the promenade; has town maps. Sights Sitia s excellent Archaeological Museum (% ; Piskokefalou; admission 2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) houses a well-displayed and important collection of local finds spanning Neolithic to Roman times, with emphasis on the Minoan CRETE

258 508 EASTERN CRETE Sitia Book accommodation online at EASTERN CRETE Around Sitia 509 CRETE civilisation. One of the most significant exhibits is the Palekastro Kouros a figure pieced together from fragments made of hippopotamus tusks and adorned with gold. The finds from the palace at Zakros include a wine press, bronze saw, jars, cult objects and pots that are clearly scorched from the great fire that destroyed the palace. Among the most valuable objects in the museum are the Linear A tablets which reflect the palace s administrative function. Towering over the town is the fort or kazarma (from casa di arma ) which was a garrison under the Venetians. The only remains of the wall that once protected the town, the site is now used as an open-air venue. It s open 8.30am to 3pm. The folklore museum (% ; Kapetan Sifinos 28; admission 2; h10am-1pm Mon-Fri) displays a fine collection of local weavings. Sleeping Hotel Arhontiko (% ; Kondylaki 16; d/studio without bathroom 30/33) This guesthouse, in a beautifully maintained neoclassical building uphill from the port, has a real old-world feel. It s spotless, with shared bathrooms and a lovely shady garden in the front; the top rooms have sea views. Apostolis (% ; Kazantzaki 27; d/tr 37/47) These domatia have ceiling fans and relatively modern bathrooms with handy touches such as shower curtains. There s a communal balcony and fridge. El Greco Hotel (% ; elgreco@sit.forth net.gr; Arkadiou 13; s/d with breakfast 35/50; a) The quaint El Greco has very clean and presentable rooms, and all have a fridge, phone and extras like hairdryers (some sleep up to four). Hotel Flisvos (% ; Karamanli 4; s/d/tr from 40/50/60;a) Along the southern waterfront, Flisvos is a decent modern hotel. Rooms are neat and have air-con, TV, fridge, phone and balconies; there is a recently renovated back wing with more spacious rooms and a lift. Also recommended are the more upmarket Sitia Bay Hotel Apartments (% ; bay.com; Tritis Septemvriou 8; apt/ste from 110/160; a). Eating Sitia (% ; Karamanli 28; specials ) is an unassuming place on the beach that makes a decent pizza but it is more highly recommended for home-style cooking that appears daily on the specials board. Taverna O Mihos (% ; Kornarou 117; mixed grill for 2 20) This psistaria (restaurant serving grilled food) in a traditional stone house one block back from the waterfront has excellent charcoal-grilled meats as well as Cretan cooking. There are also tables on a terrace nearby on the beach. Balcony (% ; Foundalidou 19; mains ) The finest dining in Sitia is on the 1st floor of this charmingly decorated neoclassical building. The Balcony has an eclectic menu of fusion cuisine, from Cretan to Mexican and Asian-inspired dishes from the charmingly feisty owner/chef Tonya s travels. Service can be patchy. For a more classic local experience try the old Houlis Rakadiko (% ; Venizelou 57) for a wide range of mezedhes accompanied by good raki. It has no signage, but it s second from the corner by day you ll see it packed with men playing backgammon. Getting There & Away AIR Sitia s airport (% ) opened an expanded international-size runway in 2003, but international flights had yet to operate in Olympic Airlines (% ; lines.com; 4 Septemvriou 3) has four weekly flights to Athens ( 71, one hour), Alexandroupolis ( 80, two hours), three flights a week to Preveza ( 80, two hours and 20 minutes) and daily flights to Kasos (20 minutes), Karpathos (one hour) and Rhodes ( 47, two hours). BUS From Sitia s bus station (% ) there are six buses a day to Ierapetra ( 5.40, 1½ hours), seven buses a day to Iraklio ( 13.10, three hours) via Agios Nikolaos ( 6.90, 1½ hours), four to Vaï ( 3, ½ hour), and two to Kato Zakros via Palekastro and Zakros ( 4.50, one hour). Buses to Vaï and Kato Zakros run only between May and October. FERRY LANE Lines (% ; has weekly ferries from Sitia to Rhodes via Kasos ( 19.50, six hours), Karpathos ( 19.50, eight hours), Diafani ( 17.90, nine hours), Halki ( 18.20, 11 hours) and Rhodes ( 27, 14 hours). Departure times change annually, so check locally for latest information. AROUND SITIA Moni Toplou Μονή Τοπλού The imposing Moni Toplou (% ; admission 2.50; h9am-6pm Apr-Oct), 18km east of Sitia on the road to Vaï, looks more like a fortress than a monastery. It was often treated as such, being ravaged by both the Knights of St John and the Turks. Its star attraction is an 18th-century icon by Ioannis Kornaros, with 61 small beautiful scenes inspired by an Orthodox prayer. An excellent museum has a fine collection of icons, engravings and books, as well as weapons and military souvenirs from the Resistance. The well-stocked shop sells ecclesiastical souvenirs and books on Crete, plus the monastery s award-winning organic olive oil and wine. The monastery is a 3km walk from the Sitia Palekastro road. Buses can drop you off at the junction. Vaï Βάϊ The beach at Vaï, on Crete s east coast 24km from Sitia, is famous for its palm forest. There are many stories about the origin of these palms, including the theory that they sprouted from date pits spread by Roman legionaries relaxing on their way back from conquering Egypt. While these palms are closely related to the date, they are a separate species unique to Crete. In July and August you ll need to arrive early to appreciate the setting, because the place gets packed. It s possible to escape the worst of the ballyhoo jet skis and all by clambering over a rocky outcrop behind the taverna to a secluded beach. About 3km north is the ancient Minoan site of Itanos. Below the site are several good swimming spots. There are buses to Vaï from Sitia ( 2.50, one hour, five daily) that stop at Palekastro. The car park charges 3, but there s free parking on the roadside 500m before Vaï. PALEKASTRO ΠΑΛΑΙΚΑΣΤΡΟ pop 1084 Palekastro (pah-leh-kas-tro) is a small farming town in the midst of a rocky, barren landscape, but within easy striking distance of the lovely Kouremenos, Vaï and Moni Toplou. About 1km from town is the small archaeological site of Ancient Palekastro, where archaeologists believe a major Minoan Palace is buried. Excavations continue on the site, which uncovered the Palekastro Kouros now residing in the Archaeological Museum in Sitia (p507 ). The tourist office (% ; h9am-10pm May-Oct) is also a good source of information. There s an ATM next door. Hotel Hellas (% ; hellas _h@otenet.gr; s/d 30-45; a) has simple rooms with a fridge and updated bathrooms, while downstairs at the taverna you ll find hearty home-style cooking (specials 4 to 6.90). The closest beaches to Palekastro are Kouremenos, a nearly deserted pebble beach with excellent windsurfing and Hiona, which has some fine fish tavernas. You can rent boards from Freak Surf Station (% ; on the beach. At Kouremenos, Casa di Mare (% ; casadimare@hotmail.com; studio 40-60; as) has six spacious, comfortable studios with stone floors and rustic-style décor that sleep up to four. There s a small pool among the olive groves. There are five buses a day from Sitia that stop at Palekastro on the way to Vaï. The are also two buses daily from Sitia to Palekastro ( 2.20, 45 minutes) that continue to Kato Zakros ( 4.50). KATO ZAKROS ΚΑΤΩ ΖΑΚΡΟΣ pop 793 The village of Zakros (zah-kros), 37km southeast of Sitia, is the nearest permanent settlement to the Minoan site of Zakros, a further 7km away next to the peaceful beach settlement Kato Zakros (kah-to zah-kros). Little more than a long stretch of pebbly beach shaded by pine trees with a string of welcoming tavernas, it is just about the most tranquil place to stay on Crete s southeastern coast. The settlement is unlikely ever to expand thanks to restrictions imposed by the archaeological service. There are several great walks in the area, including a not-too-challenging 8km walk from Zakros through a gorge, known as the Valley of the Dead because of the cave tombs dotted along the cliffs. The gorge emerges close to the Minoan site. CRETE

259 510 EASTERN CRETE Ancient Zakros Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at EASTERN CRETE Ierapetra 511 CRETE Sleeping Stella s Apartments (%/fax ; studio 40-75) are charming studios in a verdant, pine-tinged setting 800m along the old road to Zakros. Decorated with wooden furniture made by the owner, they have barbecues and hammocks and are perfect for longer stays. The engaging owners can take guests on treks and walks. Four good places are managed by Nikos at the Akrogiali Taverna (% ; The taverna is at the far end of the beach, as are all of the rooms except Katerina Apartments. Athena & Coral Rooms (d 40-50; a) Athena has pleasant rooms with stone walls, while Coral next door has small but spotless rooms with a fridge and sea views from the communal balcony. Katerina Apartments (apt 40-60;a) Comfortable, large, stone-built studios and maisonettes with superb views. Opposite Stella s. Poseidon Rooms (d with/without bathroom 25/20) Basic budget rooms right on the beach. Eating There are a couple of good-quality rival tavernas along the beach. Restaurant Nikos Platanakis (% ; specials ) This well-regarded restaurant has a wide range of Greek staples such as rabbit stew, as well as excellent grilled meat and fish. Most of the produce is from the massive vegetable garden out the back. Akrogiali Taverna (% ) Relaxed seaside dining and excellent service from the inimitable owner Nikos Perakis make this place a winner. The speciality is grilled swordfish steak ( 9) and the raki is excellent. Getting There & Away There are buses to Zakros from Sitia via Palekastro (one hour, 4.50, two daily). From June to August, the buses continue to Kato Zakros. ANCIENT ZAKROS ΑΡΧΑΙΑ ΖΑΚΡΟΣ The smallest of Crete s four palatial complexes, the Palace of Zakros (% ; Kato Zakros; admission 3; h8am-7.30pm Jul-Oct, 8.30am-3pm Nov-Jun) was a major port in Minoan times, maintaining trade links with Egypt, Syria, Anatolia and Cyprus. The palace comprised royal apartments, storerooms and workshops flanking a central courtyard. The town occupied a low plain close to the shore. Water levels have risen over the years so that some parts of the palace complex are submerged and are occupied by turtles. The ruins are not well preserved, but a visit to the site is worthwhile for its wild and remote setting. XEROKAMBOS ΞΕΡΟΚΑΜΠΟΣ pop 34 Xerokambos (kse-ro-kam-bos) is a quiet, unassuming agricultural settlement on the far southeastern flank of Crete. Its isolation has so far meant that tourism is pretty much low-key and most certainly of the unpackaged kind. There are a couple of splendid beaches, a few scattered tavernas and a smattering of studio accommodation that is ideal for people wanting peace and quiet. The smallish but cosy Ambelos Studios (%/fax ; studio 30-40) have basic kitchenettes, fridges and flyscreens. There is a barbecue and outdoor wood oven for guests, and a tree-shaded garden courtyard that makes it well-suited to families. It s just across from the beach. Villa Petrino (% ; d 40; a) has attractive, large, fully-equipped apartments, which are suitable for families, overlooking the garden. They have built-in beds, marble floors and the top rooms have beach views. The same management runs Kostas Taverna (specials 3-6), a well-regarded taverna that has a shady veranda with views out to sea. The multilingual owner Nikos is happy to show you the day s offering in the kitchen. Try the rabbit rismarato with rosemary and vinegar, served with hand-cut potatoes. Akrogiali Taverna (% ; mayirefta ) is 50m from Ambelos. Under new management, it does a range of mezedhes, grills and home-style specials like rabbit (in busy periods). There are no buses to Xerokambos. From Zakros there s a signposted turn-off to Xerokambos, which becomes an 8km winding dirt road that is rough but drivable in a conventional vehicle (though it is slowly being asphalted). Otherwise there is a good paved road from Ziros. IERAPETRA ΙΕΡΑΠΕΤΡΑ pop 11,678 Ierapetra (yeh-rah-pet-rah) is Europe s most southerly major town that services the surrounding farming region. It was a major port of call for the Romans in their conquest of Egypt. Ierapetra s main business continues to be agriculture, as the greenhouses that mar the landscape along the coast will attest, rather than tourism. Despite its wealth, it is a largely unremarkable place and it attracts relatively few tourists. There are tavernas and cafés along the waterfront, a small Venetian fort on the harbour and the odd remnant of a Turkish quarter. The town beach and surrounding beaches are good, the nightlife busy enough to keep you entertained and the scene is still Cretan enough to give you a less touristy experience of the island. From Ierapetra you can visit the offshore, low-lying, sandy island of Gaïdouronisi (also known as Hrysi). Orientation & Information The bus station is on the eastern side of town, one street back from the beachfront. There are ATMs around the main square. City Netcafe (% ; Kothri 6; per hr 2.50; h9am-late) Post office (% ; Vitsentzou Kornarou 7; h7.30am-2pm) Helpful website. Sights & Activities Ierapetra s one-room archaeological museum (% ; Adrianou (Dimokratias) 2; admission 2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) is perfect for those with a short concentration span. It does have a good collection of headless classical statuary and a superb statue of the goddess Persephone that dates from the 2nd century AD. Also notable is a larnax, or clay coffin, dating from around 1300 BC. The chest is decorated with 12 painted panels showing hunting scenes, an octopus and a chariot procession, among others. The 1899 building was a school during Ottoman times. South along the waterfront from the central square is the Kales medieval fortress (admission free; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), which was built in the early years of Venetian rule and strengthened by Francesco Morosini in It was in a pretty fragile condition and closed for restoration at the time of research. The main town beach is near the harbour, while a second beach stretches east from the bottom of Patriarhou Metaxaki. Both have coarse, grey sand, but the main beach offers better shade. Sleeping Cretan Villa Hotel (%/fax ; Lakerda 16; d 40/50; a) This well-maintained 18th-century house is the most atmospheric hotel in town. The traditionally furnished rooms have a fridge and TV, and there is a peaceful courtyard. It s a five-minute walk from the bus station. Rooms are cheaper without air-con. Ersi (% ; Eleftherias 19; d 30; a) This refurbished central hotel has neat rooms with a fridge, TV and sea views, though some are rather compact. It is run by the same family as Coral Hotel (% ; Katzonovatsi 12; d 30), another reasonable budget option in a quiet pocket of the old town, as well as the larger fully-equipped Coral Apartments (Lambraki; 45-60) on the other side of town for families or longer stays. Eating Portego (% ; Foniadaki 8; mezedhes 3-5) This delightful restaurant serves excellent Cretan and Greek cuisine and has specials cooked in the wood-fired oven (so is its bread). Try the lamb in a clay pot with yogurt. It is housed in a historic 1900s house with a lovely courtyard for summer, and there is a cool bar and kafeneio attached if you just want a drink. Oi Kalitehnes (% ; Kyprou 26; mains 4-7) is a colourful little place in a backstreet among hardware stores and tyre shops. It offers greatvalue organic food, home-made bread and some spicier falafel and kebabs introduced by the Egyptian owner. Napoleon (% ; Stratigou Samouil 26; mains ) This is one of the oldest and most respected establishments. It s on the waterfront on the south side of town. There is fresh fish and Greek and Cretan specialities, but whatever you order is of a high quality. Ierapetra has some excellent rakadika, relaxed evening hang-outs where a carafe of raki or wine comes with half a dozen or more tasty tid-bits. You could also try To Kafeneio opposite the town hall, or the modern Pavlis, near the port. Getting There & Away There are nine buses a day from Ierapetra s bus station (% ; Lasthenous) to Iraklio ( 9.50, 2½ hours), via Agios Nikolaos ( 3.30, one hour) and Gournia; seven to Sitia ( 5.40, CRETE

260 Lonely Planet Publications 512 EASTERN CRETE Gaïdouronisi (Hrysi) CRETE 1½ hours) via Koutsounari (for camp sites); and seven to Myrtos ( 1.80, 30 minutes). GAÏDOURONISI (HRYSI) ΓΑΪΔΟΥΡΟΝΗΣΙ (ΧΡΥΣΗ) Just off the coast of Ierapetra, you will find greater tranquillity at Gaïdouronisi (Donkey Island) universally marketed in Ierapetra as Hrysi or Hrysi (Golden Island) where there are good, sandy beaches, a taverna (alarmingly rumoured to be taken over by an incongruous chain snack store), and a stand of Lebanon cedars, the only one in Europe. It can get very crowded when the tour boats are in, but you can always find a quiet spot. In summer, excursion boats ( 15) leave from the quay near the town centre for the islet every morning and return in the afternoon. MYRTOS ΜΥΡΤΟΣ pop 440 Myrtos (myr-tos), on the coast 17km west of Ierapetra, is popular with more mature European travellers who like the authentic village ambience. It is one of the few places with any character in this part of the southeastern coast, which is marred by greenhouses and haphazard unattractive beach developments. Myrtos has no big hotels, and there s a reasonable patch of beach and some decently priced places to stay and eat. Internet is available at Prima Tours (% ; per hr 3.50). Big Blue (% ; d/studio/ apt 35/60/75; a) on the western edge of town, has a choice of more expensive, large airy studios with sea views, or cheaper, ground-floor rooms. All have cooking facilities. Cretan Rooms (% ; d 35) are excellent traditional-styled rooms with balconies, fridges and shared kitchens, popular with independent travellers. The reliable eating option is Myrtos Taverna (% ; mayirefta 5-8), attached to the Myrtos hotel, which is popular with both locals and tourists for its wide range of mezedhes as well as vegetarian dishes. Platanos (% ; mains ) seems to be the heartbeat of the town for foreigners, with tables under a giant thatched umbrella below a plane tree. There are seven buses daily from Ierapetra to Myrtos ( 1.80, 30 minutes). Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content.

261 D o d e c a n e s e Δωδεκάνησα Lonely Planet Publications 513 Strung out along the coast of western Turkey, like jewels upon an impossibly aquamarine sea, the Dodecanese both entrance and attract passers-by many of whom return year after year to sample some of the most culturally and geographically diverse islands in the Aegean. These 18 islands (including satellites) are an entity unto themselves. Under Italian rule until 1947, they maintain an air of slight separateness and, unsurprisingly, still attract large numbers of curious Italian visitors. The islands are a beguiling mix of sea, mountain and meadow and, because they are all close to one another, can easily be hopped. They need that extra effort to get to, but the rewards far outweigh the investment. The spiritually inclined will make a beeline for Patmos. The developed resorts of Rhodes and Kos have beaches and bars galore, while Lipsi and Tilos have seductive beaches, minus the crowds. The far-flung islands of Agathonisi, Arki, Kasos and Kastellorizo await Greek-island aficionados in pursuit of traditional island life, while everyone gapes at the extraordinary volcanic landscape that geological turbulence has created on Nisyros. The islands chequered history has also endowed them with a wealth of diverse archaeological remains. DODECANESE HIGHLIGHTS Historical Experience Viewing Lindos ( p527 ), the most famous of the ancient cities of the Dodecanese Getting Away from it All Enjoying Kastellorizo ( p543 ) with slow, laid-back life unfussed by mainstream tourism Chill-out Spot Relaxing on Astypalea ( p564 ), Kalymnos an island of tranquillity, spirituality and beautiful beaches Green Haven Viewing fertile, volcanic Nisyros ( p554 Nisyros Astypalea ) Wine Country Indulging in Rhodes wine country ( p531 ) on the slopes of Mt Attavyros Romantic Restaurants Dining in Rhodes Old Town ( p525 ) Adrenaline Rush Cliff-diving around Kalymnos ( p572 ) Sporting Event Windsurfing fast and furious at Afiartis Bay ( p537 ) on Karpathos Mt Attavyros Karpathos Lindos Rhodes Town Kastellorizo POPULATION: 190,071 AREA : 2714 SQ KM

262 514 DODECANESE History Dodecanese 515 DODECANESE HISTORY The Dodecanese islands have been inhabited since pre-minoan times, and by the Archaic period Rhodes and Kos had emerged as the dominant islands within the group. Distance from Athens gave the Dodecanese considerable autonomy and they were, for the most part, free to prosper unencumbered by subjugation to imperial Athens. Following Alexander the Great s death, Ptolemy I of Egypt ruled the Dodecanese. The Dodecanese islanders were the first Greeks to become Christians. This was through the tireless efforts of St Paul, who made two journeys to the archipelago, and through St John, who was banished to Patmos, where he had his revelation. The early Byzantine era saw the islands prosper, but by the 7th century AD they were plundered by a string of invaders. By the early 14th century it was the turn of the crusaders the Knights of St John of Jerusalem, or Knights Hospitallers who eventually became rulers of almost all the Dodecanese, building mighty fortifications, but not mighty enough to keep out the Turks in The Turks were ousted by the Italians in 1912 during a tussle over possession of Libya. The Italians, inspired by Mussolini s vision of a vast Mediterranean empire, made Italian the official language and prohibited the practice of Orthodoxy. The Italians constructed grandiose public buildings in the Fascist style, which was the antithesis of archetypal Greek architecture. More beneficially, they excavated and restored many archaeological monuments. After the Italian surrender of 1943, the islands became a battleground for British and German forces, with much suffering inflicted upon the population. The Dodecanese were formally returned to Greece in GETTING THERE & AWAY Air Astypalea, Kalymnos, Karpathos, Kos, Leros and Rhodes all have direct flights to Athens. In addition, Rhodes has flights to Astypalea (via Kos and Leros), Iraklio, Kasos (via Karpathos), Thessaloniki, and in summer to Mykonos and Santorini (Thira) in the Cyclades. Additional seaplane service operates out of Kos and Kalymnos linking those islands with Lavrio on the mainland. Ferry & Hydrofoil DOMESTIC Ferry schedules to the Dodecanese are fairly complex, but they do follow a predictable and rarely varying pattern. Departure times FERRY CONNECTIONS TO THE DODECANESE Origin Destination Duration Fare Frequency Alexandroupoli Kalymnos 23hr weekly Kos 26hr 39 weekly Rhodes 29hr 44 weekly Piraeus Astypalea 10-12hr weekly Halki 22hr 35 2 weekly Kalymnos 9-11hr 42 daily Karpathos 18½hr weekly Kasos 17hr weekly Kos 10-15hr daily Leros 11hr daily Nisyros 17hr 44 2 weekly Patmos 7-8hr daily Rhodes 15-18hr daily Symi 15-17hr 44 2 weekly Tilos 15hr 42 1 weekly Sitia Halki 7½hr 20 3 weekly Karpathos 4¼hr 17 3 weekly Kasos 2½hr weekly Rhodes 10hr 25 3 weekly Thessaloniki Kos 18hr 44 1 weekly Rhodes 21hr 53 1 weekly DODECANESE Patmos (p578) Skala To Piraeus (240km) To Astypalea (72km) (See inset below); Piraeus (250km) To Piraeus (178km) To Sitia (60km); Crete (90km) A E G E A N S E A To Samos (10km) To Ikaria (12km); Alexandroupoli (400km); Thessaloniki (500km) Agios Georgios 0 0 Astypalea (p565) Astypalea Town Arki (p585) Arki Leros (p575) Lipsi (p583) Agia Marina S E A O F C R E T E Lipsi Village Exo Vathy Agathonisi (p587) Lakki Kalymnos (p569) To Kalymnos (72km) Pothia Kos (p558) 16 km 10 miles Astypalea Farmakonisi Mastihari Fry Kefalos Pserimos (p558) Mandraki Pserimos Zia Olymbos Karpathos (p534) Kasos (p541) Kardamena Nisyros (p555) Saria Mandalya Gulf Kos Town Livadia K A R P A T H I A N Diafani S E A Pigadia Ammoöpi Tilos (p551) Bodrum Emborios Halki (p532) Kerme Gulf Alimia Symi (p547) To Rhodes (130km) Gialos Monolithos Kattavia Cape Prasonisi T U R K E Y Rhodes Town To Kastellorizo (Megisti) (130km) (See inset below) Petaloudes Skala Kamirou Kastellorizo (Megisti) km 0 20 miles Laerma Kastellorizo Village M E D I T E R R A N E A N S E A Rhodes (p517) Marmaris Kastellorizo (Megisti) (p544) Lindos T U R K E Y 16 km 10 miles Kas DODECANESE

263 516 RHODES History RHODES History 517 DODECANESE in both directions tend to be geared to an early morning arrival at both Piraeus and Rhodes. This means that island-hopping southwards can often involve some antisocial hours. The table ( p514 ) gives an overall view of ferry connections to the Dodecanese from the mainland and Crete in high season. The service from Alexandroupoli may be subject to seasonal demand, so always check the schedule before committing yourself to the trip. Aegean Flying Dolphins operates a daily hydrofoil service from the Northeastern Aegean island of Samos to Kos and islands in between. INTERNATIONAL There are ferries and hydrofoils to the Turkish ports of Marmaris and Bodrum from Rhodes and Kos, respectively, and day trips to Turkey from Kastellorizo and Symi. RHODES ΡΟΔΟΣ Rhodes (ro-dos in Greek) is the jewel in the Dodecanese crown. It s big, brash and bold and receives by far the lion s share of visitors to this island group. It s open year-round and enjoys an exceptionally mild climate. It combines all that is needed in a holiday island: beaches, nightlife, culture, scenery, greenery and comfort. Like Crete, its larger neighbour to the southwest, it could almost exist independently of the Greek mainland. Rhodes grows on you slowly. If you re not captivated at once by its intriguing and almost magical World Heritage listed Old Town with its labyrinthine back streets and Mediaeval fortifications, you will be by its dreamy beaches, snaking mountain roads, wild almost untouched interior and rocky mountains. The best dining and accommodation is found on Rhodes. The island is also the focal point for most regional transport and you will almost inevitably pass through the island at some stage. History The Minoans and Mycenaeans were among the first to have outposts on the islands, but it wasn t until the Dorians arrived in 1100 BC that Rhodes began to exert power and influence. The Dorians settled in the cities of Kamiros, Ialysos and Lindos, and made each of them prosperous and autonomous states. Rhodes continued to prosper until Roman times. It was allied to Athens in the Battle of Marathon (490 BC), in which the Persians were defeated, but had shifted to the Persian side by the time of the Battle of Salamis (480 BC). After the unexpected Athenian victory at Salamis, Rhodes hastily became an ally of Athens again, joining the Delian League in 477 BC. Following the disastrous Sicilian Expedition ( BC), Rhodes revolted against Athens and formed an alliance with Sparta, which it aided in the Peloponnesian Wars. In 408 BC the cities of Kamiros, Ialysos and Lindos consolidated their powers for mutual protection and expansion by cofounding the city of Rhodes. Rhodes became Athens ally again, and together they defeated Sparta at the Battle of Knidos (394 BC). Rhodes then joined forces with Persia in a battle against Alexander the Great, but when Alexander proved invincible, quickly allied itself with him. In 305 BC Antigonus, one of Ptolemy s rivals, sent his son, the formidable Demetrius Poliorketes (the Besieger of Cities), to conquer Rhodes. The city managed to repel Demetrius after a long siege. To celebrate this victory, the 32m-high bronze statue of Helios Apollo (Colossus of Rhodes), one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, was built. After the defeat of Demetrius, Rhodes knew no bounds. It built the biggest navy in the Aegean and its port became a principal Mediterranean trading centre. The arts also flourished. When Greece became the battleground upon which Roman generals fought for leadership of the empire, Rhodes allied itself with Julius Caesar. After Caesar s assassination in 44 BC, Cassius besieged Rhodes, destroying its ships and stripping the city of its artworks, which were then taken to Rome. This marked the beginning of Rhodes decline, and in AD 70 Rhodes became part of the Roman empire. When the Roman empire split, Rhodes joined the Byzantine province of the Dodecanese. It was given independence when the crusaders seized Constantinople. Later the Genoese gained control. The Knights of St John arrived in Rhodes in 1309 and ruled for 213 years until they were ousted by the Ottomans, who were in turn kicked out by the Italians nearly four centuries later. In 1947, after 35 years of Italian occupation, Rhodes became part of Greece along with the other Dodecanese islands. Getting There & Away AIR Olympic Airlines has at least five flights daily to Athens ( 77), two daily to Karpathos ( 28) and Kasos ( 34), one daily to Kastellorizo ( 22) and Iraklio ( 82), four weekly to Thessaloniki ( 100), three weekly to Astypalea ( 47) and two weekly to Samos ( 37). Direct inquiries to Olympic Airlines (Map p520 ; % ; Ierou Lohou 9). Aegean Airlines (% ; com; Diagoras airport) offers flights to Athens, Thessaloniki and Iraklio at similar rates, RHODES See Halki Map (p532) Halki K A R P A T H I A N S E A A E G E A N S E A Cape Armenistis To Karpathos (40km); Kasos (90km); Sitia (160km); Agios Nikolaos (190km) Excursion Boat Moni Agiou Georgiou To Symi (20km); Kos (80km); Piraeus (430km) Monolithos Fourni Bay of Apolakkia Lahania Kattavia Prasonisi Istrios Mesanagros Plimmyri Ancient Kamiros plus a service to Rome ( 152, three hours) via Athens. CAÏQUE There is a daily car-carrying caïque between Skala Kamirou, on Rhodes west coast, and Halki ( 8.50, 1¼ hours). From Skala Kamirou services depart at 2.30pm, and from Halki at 6am. CATAMARAN The Dodekanisos Express starts its daily run up the Dodecanese at around 8.30am from the Commercial Harbour (Kolona), stopping at Kos, Kalymnos and Leros daily, with stops at other times in Symi, Lipsi and Patmos. There is usually a seasonal weekly service to Kastellorizo Moni Tharri Fanes Kalavarda Petaloudes Moni Kalopetras Kremasti Paradisi Kalythies Psinthos Vlyha Bay Trianda Ixia Maritsa Moni Agias Profilia Ypsenis Acropolis Lardos Lindos of Lindos Apolakkia Asklipieio Pefki Arnitha Vati Pefki Kiotari Glystra Cape Lardos Moni Bay of Lardos Skiadi Gennadi Gennadi M E D I T E R R A N E A N S E A Rhodes Town Ancient Ialysos Koskinou Bay of Kalithea Faliraki Ladiko Alimia Salakos Afantou Afantou Mt Profitis Ilias Eleousa Makry Skala Kamirou (780m) Castle of Kastellos Platania Kolymbia Apollona Church of Epta Piges Kritinia Tsambika Agios Nikolaos Strongyli Moni Tsambikas Embonas Emery Foundouklis Winery Stegna Tragousa Arhangelos Mt Attavyros (1215m) Agathi Rhodes Mt Akramytis (825m) Castle of Faraklos Agios Haraki Castle of Laerma Siana Isidoros Monolithos Ktenies Cape Prasonisi Cape Germata Gennadi 0 10 km 0 6 miles To Marmaris (Turkey) (40km) Cape Zonari To Kastellorizo (Megisti) (110km) Kalithea Thermi DODECANESE

264 518 RHODES History RHODES Rhodes Town 519 DODECANESE as well. Its sister vessel the Dodekanisos Pride runs a similar schedule starting at around the same time from Patmos. Tickets can be bought at Skevos Travel (Map p520 ; % ; skeyos@rho.forthnet.gr; Amerikis 11) or Dodekanisos Seaways (Map p522 ; % ; Afstralias 3). The Tilos-owned Sea Star links Rhodes with Tilos. Its schedules tend to fluctuate yearly, but there are generally at least six sailings weekly to Tilos. Check with Triton Holidays (Map p520 ; % ; Plastira 9, Mandraki) for schedules and tickets, or the Sea Star ticket booth on Mandraki Harbour. There are two daily catamarans from Rhodes Commercial harbour to Marmaris (50 minutes) from June to September at 8am and 4.30pm, respectively, dropping back to maybe only three or four services a week in winter. Tickets cost 31 one way plus 19 Turkish port tax. Same-day return tickets cost 38 plus 19 tax. Open return tickets cost 42 plus 33 tax. Book online at rhodes.marmarisinfo.com. EXCURSION BOAT There are excursion boats to Symi ( 22 return) daily in summer, leaving Mandraki Harbour at 9am and returning at 6pm. You can buy tickets at most travel agencies, but it s better to buy them at the harbour, where you can check out the boats personally. Look for shade and the size and condition of the boat, as these vary greatly. You can buy an open return ticket if you want to stay on Symi. FERRY Domestic Rhodes is the main port of the Dodecanese and offers a complex array of departures. The table ( below ) lists scheduled domestic ferries from Rhodes to other islands in the Dodecanese and Piraeus in high season. The EOT (Greek National Tourist Organisation; Map p520 ;% ; cnr Makariou & Papagou;h8am- 2.45pm Mon-Fri) in Rhodes Town can provide you with current schedules. International There is a weekly passenger and car ferry service between Rhodes and Marmaris in Turkey (car/passenger 95/49 including taxes, 1¼ hours) on Thursday at 1pm. There is a small discount on open return date rates. Book at or contact Triton Holidays (Map p520 ; % ; Plastira 9, Mandraki) upon arrival to arrange a crossing. FERRY CONNECTIONS TO/FROM RHODES Destination Duration Fare Frequency Agios Nikolaos 12hr weekly Astypalea 8-10hr weekly Amorgos 6hr weekly Chios 13hr weekly Halki 1½-2hr 8 daily Iraklio 14hr weekly Kalymnos 3-5½hr weekly Karpathos 3-5½hr weekly Kasos 7-8hr 22 4 weekly Kastellorizo 4-5hr 17 4 weekly Kos 3½hr daily Leros 4½hr daily Limnos 23hr 38 1 weekly Milos 21hr 34 1 weekly Nisyros 4½hr 12 2 weekly Patmos 6-8½hr daily Piraeus 11½-19hr daily Samos 9½hr 27 2 weekly Sitia 10hr 25 3 weekly Syros 8½-11hr weekly Symi 1-2hr daily Tilos 1½-4hr weekly HYDROFOIL South of Mandraki Harbour, ANES (% ; Afstralias 88, Rhodes) operates a single hydrofoil, the Aegli, from Rhodes to Symi. Tickets are available at Mandraki Harbour, the main office or from travel agents around town. Getting Around TO/FROM THE AIRPORT The Diagoras airport is 16km southwest of Rhodes Town, near Paradisi. There are 21 buses daily between the airport and Rhodes Town s west side bus station ( 1.90, 25 minutes). The first leaves Rhodes Town at 5am and the last at 11pm; from the airport, the first leaves at 5.55am and the last at 11.45pm. Buses from the airport leave from the main road outside the airport perimeter. BICYCLE A range of bicycles is available for rent at Bicycle Centre (Map p520 ; % ; Griva 39; per day 5). CAR & MOTORCYCLE There are numerous car- and motorcyclerental outlets in Rhodes Town. Shop around and bargain because the competition is fierce. A reliable agency is Drive Rent a Car (Map p520 ;% ; Call ahead for an airport pick-up if required. Book through Triton Holidays (Map p520 ; % ; Plastira 9, Mandraki) for even cheaper rates. EXCURSION BOAT There are excursion boats to Lindos (return 15) daily in summer, leaving Mandraki Harbour at 9am and returning at 6pm. LOCAL TRANSPORT Rhodes Town has two island bus terminals, which service one half of the island each. From the east side bus terminal (Map p520 ; Rimini) there are 18 buses daily to Faliraki ( 1.80), 14 to Lindos ( 4.70), three to Kolymbia ( 2.40), nine to Gennadi ( 4.40) via Lardos, and four to Psinthos ( 1.90). From the west side bus terminal (Map p520 ), next to the New Market, there are buses every half-hour to Kalithea Thermi ( 1.80, 15 minutes), 10 daily to Koskinou ( 1.80, 20 minutes), five to Salakos ( 3.60, one hour), two to Ancient Kamiros ( 4.60, 55 minutes), one to Monolithos ( 6, one hour 20 minutes) via Skala Kamirou ( 4.60, one hour 10 minutes), and one to Embonas ( 4.60, one hour 10 minutes). The EOT office ( p521 ) gives out schedules. Unlimited travel tickets are available for one/two/three days ( 10/15/25). Local buses around the city charge a flat 1. They depart from a stand on Mandraki Harbour. TA X I Rhodes Town s main taxi rank (Map p520 ) is east of Rimini. There are two zones on the island for taxi meters: Zone One is Rhodes Town and Zone Two (slightly higher) is everywhere else. Rates are a little higher between midnight and 6am. Taxis tend not to use meters but prefer to use set fare rates. All drivers carry a booklet stating the current approved set fares. Request to see it if in doubt. Sample fares: airport 16, Filerimos 15, Petaloudes 25, Ancient Kamiros 32, Lindos 38 and Monolithos 65. Taxi company contact phone numbers include % , % and % RHODES TOWN pop 56,128 The heart of Rhodes Town is the Old Town, enclosed within massive walls. Avoid the worst of the tourist crowds by beginning your exploration early in the morning. At any time, away from the main thoroughfares and squares, you will find deserted serpentine alleyways. Much of the New Town to the north is dominated by package tourism, but it does have a few places of interest for visitors and the advantage of being right next to the town s best beaches. Orientation The Old Town is nominally divided into three sectors: the Kollakio, or Knights Quarter, the Hora and the Jewish Quarter. The Kollakio contains most of the mediaeval historical sights of the Old Town, while the Hora, often referred to as the Turkish Quarter, is primarily Rhodes Town s commercial sector and shows off most of the shops and restaurants. The Old Town is accessible by nine pyles (main gates) and two rampart-access portals. The whole town is a mesh of Byzantine, Turkish and Latin architecture, featuring quiet, twisting alleyways that are punctuated by lively squares. DODECANESE

265 Iroon Polytehniou Pl 520 RHODES Rhodes Town RHODES Rhodes Town 521 DODECANESE Akti Miaouli 28 Oktovriou Alexandrou Diakou Town To Ialysos (10km); Diagoras Airport (15km) 4 Metaxa Ioa RHODES TOWN Kennedy 24 Kritis Dilberaki Papalouka El Pindou Orfanidou The Sofouli Griva Voriou Ipirou Pavlou Mela Kalymnou-Lerou Tilou G Papanikolaou I Dragoum Venizelou To Stadium & Theatre (500m); Temple of Pythian Apollo & Acropolis of Rhodes (550m) Navarinou Riga Fereou Komninon Kastellorizou Fanouraki Amarantou Kathopouli Mandilara Ammohostou SHOPPING Manuel Music Center B TRANSPORT ANES Ticket Booth C1 Bicycle Centre A2 Bus Station (East Side) C1 Bus Station (West Side) C1 Drive Rent a Car...(see 10) Excursion Boats...(see 12) Olympic Airlines B3 Sea Star Ticket Booth C3 Skevos Travel B3 Taxi Rank C2 Triton Holidays...(see 10) Urban Bus Stop Kiosk C m miles Vasileos Georgiou S Venizelou Lambraki Kos 7 9 Town 2 Papagou I Kazouli Ierou Lohou 30 Themeli Dimokratias Agion Kyprou Amerikis 25 Martiou Apollonion Anargyron Ethelondon Karpathou Eleftherias Plastira Timokreondos A n dron See Rhodes Old Town Map (p522) 21 Springs Karpathou Theodoraki 13 8 See Enlargement Plastira Theofiliskou Sokratous Meg Konstandinou ikou 34 Stefanou Kazouli Pl Eleftherias 29 Koundourioti Ave of the Knights (Ippoton) Ergiou Peloponisou Mandraki Harbour Agisandrou Thoukididi Omirou D Neoleas Mandraki Harbour New 28 Market Alexandrias Lighthouse of Agios Nikolaos Filellinon Venetokleon 20 Sofokleous m miles Akti Boumbouli Pythagora Aristotelous Diagoras Stadium INFORMATION Alpha Credit Bank... 1 B1 EOT... 2 B1 Express Laundry... 3 B2 General Hospital... 4 A3 Krito... 5 A4 Main Post Office... 6 B3 National Bank of Greece... 7 B1 Port Police... 8 B3 Tourist Police... 9 B1 Triton Holidays B1 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Aquarium B1 Diving Boats C3 Mosque of Murad Reis B2 SLEEPING Hotel Anastasia A3 New Village Inn B2 EATING Halki B2 Indigo C2 Niohori B2 To Meltemi C2 To Steki tou Tsima C6 To Steno B6 DRINKING Down Under Bar A3 Red Lion A3 ENTERTAINMENT Colorado Entertainment Centre A2 Jewish Quarter Commercial Harbour (Kolona) Perikleous Vyronos Interisland Ferry Alhadef Tlipolemou Thiseos The commercial centre of the New Town lies north of the Old Town and is easily explored on foot. Most commercial activity is centred on two blocks surrounding Kyprou. The hotel district is centred on a large sector bordered by 28 Oktovriou and G Papanikolaou. The Commercial Harbour (Kolona) is east of the Old Town. Excursion boats, small ferries, hydrofoils and private yachts use Mandraki Harbour, further north. Information EMERGENCY Emergency first aid & ambulance (% , ) INTERNET ACCESS Mango Cafe Bar (Map p522 ; % ; Dorieos 3; per hr 5; h9.30ammidnight) In the Old Town. On The Spot Net (Map p522 ; % ; Perikleous 21; per hr 5;h8am-midnight) In the Hotel Spot. INTERNET RESOURCES A comprehensive guide to what s on in Rhodes. A good cultural and historical background to Rhodes. LAUNDRY Express Laundry (Map p520 ; Kosti Palama 5) Machine washes for 3. MEDICAL SERVICES General Hospital (Map p520 ; % ; Papalouka El Venizelou) Just northwest of the Old Town. Krito (Map p520 ; % ; krito@rho.forthnet.gr; Ioannou Metaxa 3;h24hr) Private medical provider. MONEY All the banks listed have ATMs. Alpha Credit Bank (Map p522 ; Kyprou) In the New Town. Commercial Bank of Greece (Map p522 ; Symis) In the Old Town, plus an ATM near where the boats leave for Turkey on the east side of Commercial Harbour. National Bank of Greece New Town (Map p520 ; Kyprou); Old Town (Map p522 ; Mousiou) POST Main post office (Map p520 ) On Mandraki Harbour. Post office branch (Map p522 ; Orfeos;hdaily) In the Old Town. TOURIST INFORMATION EOT (Map p520 ; % ; cnr Makariou & Papagou; h8am-2.45pm Mon-Fri) Supplies brochures and maps of the city. Has the Rodos News, a free Englishlanguage newspaper. Port police (Map p520 ; % ; Mandrakiou) Tourist police (Map p520 ; % ; h24hr) Next door to the EOT. TRAVEL AGENCIES Triton Holidays (Map p520 ; % ; Plastira 9, Mandraki) Perhaps the best overall travel, tourist information and accommodation agency in Rhodes. The exceptionally helpful staff provide a wide range of services catering to individual needs, as well as air, sea and land tickets. Sights OLD TOWN In medieval times the Knights of St John lived in the Knights Quarter, while other inhabitants lived in the Hora. The 12m-thick city walls are closed to the public but you can take a pleasant walk around the imposing walls of the Old Town via the wide and pedestrianised moat walk. Knights Quarter An appropriate place to begin an exploration of the Old Town is the imposing cobblestone Avenue of the Knights (Map p522 ; Ippoton), where the knights lived. The knights were divided into seven tongues or languages, according to their place of origin England, France, Germany, Italy, Aragon, Auvergne and Provence and each was responsible for protecting a section of the bastion. The Grand Master, who was in charge, lived in the palace, and each tongue was under the auspices of a bailiff. To this day the street exudes a noble and forbidding aura, despite modern offices now occupying most of the inns. Its lofty buildings stretch in a 600m-long unbroken wall of honey-coloured stone blocks, and its flat façade is punctuated by huge doorways and arched windows. First on the right, if you begin at the eastern end of the Ave of the Knights, is the 1519 Inn of the Order of the Tongue of Italy (Map p522 ); next to it is the Palace of Villiers de l sle Adam (Map p522 ). After Sultan Süleyman had taken the city, it was Villiers de l sle who had the humiliating task of arranging the knights departure from the island. Next along is the DODECANESE

266 522 RHODES Rhodes Town RHODES Rhodes Town 523 DODECANESE RHODES OLD TOWN Children's Play Park Pyli Amboise Pyli Ag Georgiou Aegean University Komninon Orfeos 16 Entrance to Moat #2 4 Clock Tower Hora Apollonion 14 Dimokratias Sound and Light Show Ave of the Knights (Ippoton) Timokreondos Panetiou 9 Andronikou 15 Entrance to Moat 8 20 Theofiliskou Sokratous INFORMATION Commercial Bank ATM... 1 D1 Commercial Bank of Greece... 2 C1 Mango Cafe Bar...(see 25) National Bank of Greece... 3 C1 On The Spot Net...(see 23) Post Office... 4 A1 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Archaeological Museum... 5 B1 Chapelle Française... 6 B1 Inn of France... 7 B1 Inn of Provence... 8 B1 Inn of Spain... 9 B1 Inn of the Order of the Tongue of Italy B1 Kahal Shalom Synagogue C2 Mosque of Süleyman B2 Museum of the Decorative Arts.. 13 B1 Muslim Library A Ergiou Timakida 26 Agiou Fanouriou 30 Lahitos Pyli Ag Athanasiou Pyli Eleftherias Argyrokastrou 3 5 Mousiou Agisandrou Evdoxou Dorieos Castellania Fountain Agios Spyridon Church (Kavakli Mosque) Pyli Ibrahim Pasha Panagias 32 Mosque Evreon Damagitou Martyron Thoukididi Omirou Filellinon Platonos Sofokleous Pythagora 40 Akti Sahtouri Lisipou Aristotelous Jewish Quarter Praxitelous Efthymiou Nelly Dimoglou Dance Company Palace of the Grand Masters Palace of Villiers de l'sle Adam Temple of Aphrodite SLEEPING Apollo Tourist House B3 Avalon B1 Hotel Cava d'oro D2 Hotel Isole B2 Hotel Spot C2 Hotel Via Via C2 Mango Rooms B3 Marco Polo Mansion B2 Nikos & Takis Hotel B1 Pension Andreas B3 Pension Olympos B2 Pink Elephant B3 Commercial Harbour (Kolona) Perikleous Pyli Ag Ioanni (Koskinou) B2 A1 B1 C m miles Alhadef Tlipolemou Vyronos Pyli Mylon Thiseos Inn of France (Map p522 ), the most ornate and distinctive of all the inns. On the opposite side of the street is a wrought-iron gate in front of a Turkish garden. Back on the right side is the Chapelle Française (Chapel of the Tongue of France; Map p522 ), embellished with a statue of the Virgin and Child. Next door is the residence of the Chaplain of the Tongue of France. Across the alleyway is the Inn of Provence (Map p522 ), with four coats of arms forming the shape of a cross, and opposite is the Inn of Spain (Map p522 ). On the right is the truly magnificent 14th-century Palace of the Grand Masters (Map p522 ;% ; Ippoton; admission 6; h pm Mon, 8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun). It was destroyed in the gunpowder explosion of 1856 and the Italians rebuilt it in a grandiose manner, with Kistiniou Promitheos Pyli Karetou EATING Hatzikelis D2 La Varka C2 Laganis D2 Marco Polo...(see 26) Nireas C2 O Meraklis C2 Taverna Kostas C2 DRINKING Kafe Besara C2 Mango Cafe Bar...(see 25) Resalto Club C2 TRANSPORT Catamarans to Turkey D1 Dodekanisos Seaways C1 F/B Nisos Kalymnos & Dodekanisos Express Catamaran C1 a lavish interior, intending it as a holiday home for Mussolini and King Emmanuel III. It is now a museum, containing sculpture, mosaics taken from Kos by the Italians and antique furniture. Housed in the old 15th-century knights hospital is the archaeological museum (Map p522 ;% ; Mousiou; admission 3; h8am-4pm Tue-Sun). Its most famous exhibit is the exquisite Parian marble statuette, the Aphrodite of Rhodes, a 1st-century-BC adaptation of a Hellenistic statue. Less impressive to most is the 4th-century-BC Afroditi Thalassia in the next room. The Museum of the Decorative Arts (Map p522 ;% ; Argyrokastrou; admission 2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), further north, houses a collection of artefacts from around the Dodecanese. A 10 inclusive ticket covers all three of the above sites. On Symis, there are the remains of a 3rd-century-BC Temple of Aphrodite (Map p522 ), one of the few ancient ruins in the Old Town. Hora Bearing many legacies of its Ottoman past is the Hora (Map p522 ). During Turkish times churches were converted to mosques, and many more Muslim houses of worship were built from scratch, although most are now dilapidated. The most important is the pinkdomed Mosque of Süleyman (Map p522 ), at the top of Sokratous. Built in 1522 to commemorate the Ottoman victory against the knights, it was renovated in Opposite is the 18th-century Muslim Library (Map p522 ; Arionos; Sokratous; admission free; h9.30am-4pm Mon-Sat). Founded in 1794 by Turkish Rhodian Ahmed Hasuf, it houses a THE KNIGHTS OF ST JOHN small number of Persian and Arabic manuscripts and a collection of Korans handwritten on parchment. Jewish Quarter The Jewish Quarter (Map p522 ) is an almost forgotten sector of Rhodes Old Town, where life continues at an unhurried pace and local residents live seemingly oblivious to the hubbub of the Hora, no more than a few blocks away. This area of quiet streets and sometimes dilapidated houses was once home to a thriving Jewish community. Kahal Shalom synagogue (Map p522 ; jewishmuseum.org; Dosiadou), built in 1577, has a commemorative plaque to the many members of Hora s Jewish population who were sent to Auschwitz during the Nazi occupation. Jews still worship here and it is usually open in the morning. Close by is Evreon Martyron (Sq of the Jewish Martyrs; Map p522 ). NEW TOWN The Acropolis of Rhodes (Map p520 ), southwest of the Old Town on Monte Smith, was the site of the ancient Hellenistic city of Rhodes. The hill is named after the English admiral Sir Sydney Smith, who watched for Napoleon s fleet from here in It has superb views. The restored 2nd-century-AD stadium once staged competitions in preparation for the Olympic Games. The adjacent theatre is a reconstruction of one used for lectures by the Rhodes School of Rhetoric. Steps above here lead to the Temple of Pythian Apollo, with four re-erected columns. This unenclosed site can be reached on city bus 5. North of Mandraki, at the eastern end of G Papanikolaou, is the graceful Mosque of Murad The Knights of St John existed during their tenure in Rhodes within an organisation that is known today as the Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of St John of Jerusalem, of Rhodes and of Malta. Its origins are from the Knights Hospitaller, an organisation founded in Jerusalem in 1080 as an Amalfitan hospital to provide care for poor and sick pilgrims on their way to the Holy Land. After the first Crusade in 1099 and the loss of Jerusalem, the knights relocated to Rhodes (via Cyprus) where after a three-year struggle in 1309 they managed to eject the incumbent tenants, the Genoese. The Knights of St John in Rhodes were ostensibly a chivalrous Christian organisation but soon established themselves as purveyors of legitimate and semilegitimate commercial activities primarily piracy and antipiracy against Ottoman shipping and pilgrims. This naturally irked the Ottoman Sultan Süleyman the Magnificent who set about dislodging the knights from the stronghold. Rhodes capitulated in 1523, after which the remaining knights relocated to Malta and remain to this day. DODECANESE

267 524 RHODES Rhodes Town Book accommodation online at RHODES Rhodes Town 525 DODECANESE Reis (Map p520 ). In its grounds are a Turkish cemetery and the Villa Cleobolus, where Lawrence Durrell lived in the 1940s, writing Reflections on a Marine Venus. If you fancy a fishy experience, the Aquarium (Map p520 ; % ; info@hsr-ncmr.gr; Kos 1; admission 3.50;h9am-8.30pm) is worth a look. The Art Deco building was built during the 1930s by the Italians as a biological research station. Visitors can view anthozoa, molluscs, crabs, echinoderms, sea turtles and specimens from up to 12 types of fish family. The town beach begins north of Mandraki and continues around the island s northernmost point and down the west side of the New Town. The best spots will depend on the prevailing winds but tend to be on the east side. Activities GREEK DANCING LESSONS The Nelly Dimoglou Dance Company (Map p522 ; % ; deyappet@otenet.gr; Andronikou 7; admission per person/group 16/11) gives lessons and stages performances (9.15pm on Monday, Wednesday and Friday) in folk dance theatre. SCUBA DIVING Three diving schools operate out of Mandraki: Waterhoppers Diving Centre (%/fax , ; Diving Centres (% ) and Scuba Diving Trident School (%/fax ). All offer a range of courses, including a One Day Try Dive, for 40 to 50. You can get information from their boats at Mandraki Harbour (Map p520 ). Kalithea Thermi is the only site around Rhodes where diving is permitted. Sleeping BUDGET The Old Town has a wide selection of wellpriced and relaxing accommodation. Seek out the following. Hotel Isole (Map p522 ; % ; isole.com; Evdoxou 35; s/d incl breakfast 38/48; a) Sequestered away in the back streets, but helpfully signposted, is this cosy pension consisting of seven homely rooms in blue and white. There s a welcoming lobby lounge with a small bar. Pension Olympos (Map p522 ; %/fax ; Agiou Fanouriou 56; s/d 40/50; a) This pension has pleasant rooms with fridge and TV, and an attractive little courtyard. Dream away on its wrought-iron country- style beds with soft mattresses. Mango Rooms (Map p522 ; % ; Dorieos 3; s/d 45/52;hyearround;ai) This place has clean, nicely furnished rooms with bathroom, TV, ceiling fan, safety box and refrigerator. It has heating in winter. Pink Elephant (Map p522 ; % ; Timakida 9; s/d 36/60) The fan-equipped and very presentable rooms have large bathrooms, though there are some cheaper rooms with shared bathrooms. Owner Mari makes guests feel at home away from home. Hotel Spot (Map p522 ; % ; hotelrhodes.gr; Perikleous 21; s/d incl breakfast 45/60; ai) The Spot has exceptionally clean, pleasant and tastefully decorated rooms, with fridge. Owner Ilias is a welcoming host. There is also a small book exchange and roof garden, and the hostel offers a wi-fi centre. Most of the New Town s hotels are modern and characterless, but there are a couple of exceptions. New Village Inn (Map p520 ; % ; Konstantopedos 10; s/d 24/35) This cosy inn has tastefully furnished rooms with fridge and fan, and a traditional stone-walled courtyard festooned with plants. Hotel Anastasia (Map p520 ; % ; 28 Oktovriou 46; s/d incl breakfast 35/51;ai) This old-style, renovated hotel, in a former Italian mansion, is a quiet getaway. The high-ceilinged rooms with tiled floors are spotless. The lush garden sports a tortoise and cat family. Italian and French is spoken. MIDRANGE Apollo Tourist House (Map p522 ; % ; Omirou 28c; s/d 50/60) This is a small, quality pension comprising six rooms, the best of which boasts a fourposter bed. Rooms all have good views and there is a cosy courtyard for breakfasts or the occasional barbecue. Hotel Via Via (Map p522 ; %/fax ; Lisipou 2; d 42-75;hyearround; ai) This pristine boutique hotel, in a discreet quarter of the Old Town, has tastefully furnished and individually named rooms. There s a spacious sun roof where breakfast is served by gregarious Belgian owner Bea. opension Andreas (Map p522 ; % ; fax ; Omirou 28d; s/d 50/75;hyear-round; a) In one of the quietest parts of the Old Town this exceptionally friendly small boutique hotel, with ever-helpful staff, has 11 tastefully decorated and individually named rooms. There is a very social breakfast bar with panoramic views across the Old Town. TOP END When it comes to top-class accommodation, Rhodes has it all. For the most atmospheric stay, stick to the Old Town. Getting in with bulky luggage can be a problem. Leaving can be even harder as you will have little incentive to do so. Hotel Cava d Oro (Map p522 ; % ; Kistiniou 15; s/d 100/110; pa) A handy choice for visitors with luggage as your taxi can come to the door. Constructed from an 800-year-old building, the rooms have solid walls and classy furnishings, including wrought-iron beds. Nikos & Takis Hotel (Map p522 ; % ; Panetiou 29; s/d 140/160; pai) Housed in a former old mansion, the richly decorated rooms at this discreet and rather trendy establishment are pretty plush. Each of the seven rooms is individually named, from the smallish Marokino to the capacious Grand Master, where amenities are aplenty, including piped music in the bathroom. Breakfast is taken on a banana tree shaded patio. Marco Polo Mansion (Map p522 ; % ; Agiou Fanouriou 40-42; s/d 90/170) Featured in glossy European magazines, this old-fashioned Anatolian inn is decorated in rich Ottoman-era colours. A cool and shady lodging, right in the heart of the Old Town, it s run by the effervescent Effie and gastronome husband Spyros. oavalon (Map p522 ; % ; Ippoton; s/d ; ai) For the utmost in luxury and discretion you can t beat the Avalon. As Rhodes newest boutique getaway, the whole establishment oozes class. Finding it can be a challenge as it is sequestered away in an alley off Ippoton. The furnishing and facilities are world-class and the atmosphere rarefied. From the plasma TV to the programmable shower enjoy! Eating BUDGET Old Town Avoid the restaurant touts along Sokratous and around Ippokratous. Hit the backstreets to find less touristy places to eat. O Meraklis (Map p522 ; Aristotelous 30; soup 4; h3am- 8am) After a night out on the tiles a plate of belly-caressing tripe and entrails soup is what is needed at least according to Greeks who swear by its hangover-curing properties. It s pretty much all it serves. It s rough, it s ready, it s an experience worth trying. Laganis (Map p522 ; % ; Alhadef 16; mains 4-7) If you are looking for an unpretentious places with genuine food and uninflated prices, seek out this family-style taverna in the back streets. Two dishes worth sampling are the succulent fish souvlaki or the mussels filled with cheese and oven-baked. Taverna Kostas (Map p522 ; % ; Pythagora 62; mains 5-7) For reliability, quality and sheer down-to-earth wholesomeness, Kostas will fit the bill. You can be sure of good grills and fish dishes relying less on flashiness than timetested ingredients, served up without fuss in good portions. New Town The New Town has some surprisingly good places to eat, as long as you re prepared to look. Halki (Map p520 ; % ; Kathopouli 30; mezedhes ; hdinner) Looking and feeling somewhat out of time, Halki is a thoroughly idiosyncratic eatery almost hidden away in the New Town. Forget about swish décor; choose instead from a wide range of mezedhes and dishes on display. Order the excellent draught house wine. Niohori (Map p520 ; % ; I Kazouli 29; mains 3-6) Like Halki, this essentially nontouristy eatery makes little concession to appearance. Niohori serves up its own meat the owner is a butcher and prepares a mouth-watering array of low-cost readycooked meals daily. To Steno (Map p520 ; % ; Agion Anargyron 29; mezedhes 4-7; hdinner) It s a short walk out of the Old Town from the Agios Athanasios gate to To Steno and it s worth the effort for the old-style atmosphere and outdoor dining in summer. Dine ouzo-style with mezedhes such as chickpea patties, zucchini fritters or country sausages. DODECANESE

268 526 RHODES Rhodes Town RHODES Eastern Rhodes 527 DODECANESE Indigo (Map p520 ; % ; New Market ; mains 8-16; hdinner) You wouldn t expect to find quality in among the fast-food joints of the New Market. But there is Indigo. Salads feature strongly: the Indigo salad with croutons, rocket, walnut, lettuce oil and garlic entices, as does a playful chicken salad made up of chicken strips in vegetables and a hazelnut salad with blue cheese. Subtle and scrumptious at the same time. MIDRANGE & TOP END Old Town omarco Polo (Map p522 ; % ; Agiou Fanouriou 45-47; mains 8-10) You mightn t know about this seriously select dining locale if you didn t read it here. Original Graeco-Italian creations include pork with balsamic vinegar, rocket and sliced parmesan cheese, pork fillet with manouri cheese (a creamier and unsalted version of feta) and fig jam, or Santorini fava lentils with caramelised onions with a sweet wine sauce and mint. Select, but palate-pleasing wine list. Dining at its best in a palm tree caressed courtyard. La Varka (Map p522 ; % ; Sofokleous 5; mains ) Blink and you ve missed this quietly satisfying café-restaurant tucked away among a myriad of establishments. The menu is small, but it s fair dinkum Greek. Tourists don t often find their way here, though it s easy to find. Symi shrimps excel. Nireas (Map p522 ; % ; Sofokleous 45-47; mains ) Another back-street beauty, Nireas is nominally a fish restaurant but still covers the full gamut of dishes. The mydia ahnista (steamed mussels) in a rich flavoursome broth are worth particular mention, as are the skillet-seared mydia saganaki (mussels with tomato and feta cheese). Eat mezes (appetiser) style if you can. The locale is quiet and relaxing. Hatzikelis (Map p522 ; % ; Alhadef 9; mains ) A former bakery turned fish restaurant, Hatzikelis shuns the mainstream tourist trade and sticks to noticeable quality. The shellfish excel. Look for mussels, scallops with garlic butter and kefalotyri cheese, fresh clams or sea urchin roe. Divine! New Town To Steki tou Tsima (Map p520 ; % ; Peloponisou 22; mezedhes 5-7) To Steki is an unpretentious and totally untouristy fish restaurant on the south side of Old Town. Sample from an imaginative, and occasionally unusual, array of fish such, as yermanos (leatherback) and shellfish-based mezedhes: try grooved fouskes (sea squirts) to be different! To Meltemi (Map p520 ; % ; cnr Kountourioti & Rodou; mains 6-13) Unusual in that the New Town sports virtually no beachside tavernas, Meltemi occupies a prime spot just north of Mandraki harbour. Dishes run a predictable gamut of fish and grills, while the oven-baked feta and an original Meltemi salad are worth sampling. Piped music and nautical memorabilia complete the scene. Drinking & Entertainment OLD TOWN Feelings run strong from Old Town locals about noise pollution, so there is an ongoing campaign to move disco-style bars out of the walls. What will remain are quieter, talkoriented venues like the following options. Kafe Besara (Map p522 ; % ; Sofokleous 11-12) This Aussie-owned bar is one of the Old Town s liveliest, and a great place to hang out for gossip, coffee and cheer. Mango Cafe Bar (Map p522 ; % ; Dorieos 3) This bar claims to have the cheapest drinks in the Old Town, as well as internet access (see p521 ), and is the preferred haunt of local expats, scuba divers and die-hard travellers. Resalto Club (Map p522 ; % ; Damagitou; h11pm-late) This indoor Greek music centre features live music on weekends. The repertoire ranges from entehna (artistic compositional) to laïka (urban popular music) to the ever-present rembetika (Greek blues). Sound & Light Show (Map p522 ; % ; admission 7) This impressive show takes place from Monday to Saturday next to the walls of the Old Town, off Rimini and near the Amboise Gate. Englishlanguage sessions are staggered, but in general begin at either 9.15pm or 11.15pm. Other languages offered are French, German and Swedish. NEW TOWN There is a rash of discos and raucous bars in the New Town. The two main areas are Alexandrou Diakou and Orfanidou, where Western music blares from every establishment. Down Under Bar (Map p520 ; % ; Orfanidou 37) For a wild night of dancing on the bar, make for this Aussie-influenced watering hole. Red Lion (Map p520 ; Orfanidou 9) For something more subdued, this bar has the relaxed atmosphere of a British pub. Ron and Vasilis will gladly answer questions about Rhodes for the price of a drink. Colorado Entertainment Centre (Map p520 ; % ; Orfanidou 57) The Colorado consists of six venues in one Studio Fame, Heaven Club R&B, Colorado Live, Förfesten, Swedco Café and IN 4 U Music Bar and is more fun than you can shake your rear end at. Shopping Look out for gold and silver jewellery, leather goods and ceramics in the Old Town. Shoes are also a good buy, with styles not always found back home. Manuel Music Center (Map p520 ; % ; 25 Martiou 10-13) All the latest CDs and DVDs are on sale here, including good-quality Greek releases not normally heard or bought by tourists. Getting Around Local buses leave from the urban bus stop (Map p520 ; Mandraki). Bus 2 goes to Analipsi, bus 3 to Rodini, bus 4 to Agios Dimitrios and bus 5 to Monte Smith. You can buy tickets at the kiosk on Mandraki. EASTERN RHODES Rhodes best beaches are along the east coast. There are frequent buses to Lindos, but some of the other beaches are a bit of a hike from the road. It s possible to find uncrowded stretches of coast even in high season. Kalithea Thermi (admission 2.50), 10km from Rhodes Town, is a restored Italian-built spa. Within the complex are renovated colonnades, domed ceilings and mosaic floors. There is shaded and sheltered swimming available. Buses from Rhodes Town stop opposite the turn-off to the spa. The beach is used by Rhodes diving schools (see p524 ). To the right there s a small sandy beach (with a snack bar); take the track that veers right from the turn-off to the spa. Ladiko, touted locally as Anthony Quinn, is in fact two back-to-back coves with a pebbly beach on the north side and volcanic rock platforms on the south. The swimming is good, though the water is noticeably colder and development is relatively low-key. At Kolymbia, further down the coast, a right turn leads to over 4km of pine-fringed road to the Epta Piges (Seven Springs), a beautiful cool, shady valley where a lake fed by springs can be reached either along a path or through a tunnel. This is a popular tourist attraction in its own right. There are no buses to Epta Piges, so take a Lindos bus and get off at the turn-off. Back on the coast, Kolymbia and Tsambika are sandy but somewhat crowded beaches. A steep road (signposted) leads inland 1.5km to Moni Tsambikas, from where there are terrific views. The monastery is a place of pilgrimage for childless women. On 18 September, the monastery s festival day, women climb up to it on their knees and then pray to conceive. Arhangelos, 4km further on and inland, is a large agricultural village with a tradition of carpet weaving and making goatskin boots by hand. Just before Arhangelos there is a turn-off to Stegna, and just after to the idyllic sandy cove of Agathi, perhaps the best of the bunch along this coastline. Agathi has three beach restaurants to choose from. The 15th-century Castle of Faraklos, above Agathi, was a prison for recalcitrant knights and the island s last stronghold to fall to the Turks. The somnolent fishing port of Haraki, just south of the castle, has a pebble and sand beach not the best for swimming. There are more beaches between here and Vlyha Bay, 2km north of Lindos. Lindos Λίνδος pop 1091 Lindos is unquestionably the next most popular tourist destination on Rhodes after the Old Town. Excursion boats set sail daily from Mandraki Harbour and buses from resort hotels to disgorge their willing charges an hour or two later at this once quiet and pretty village with its twin bays. Today Lindos is a pretty and busy village, or at least it is between 10am and 4pm when most of the day-trippers congregate. There are local moves afoot to restore some of the original dignity of Lindos, including a ban on rooftop evening dining a practice that was considered until recently a de rigueur experience for visitors to the village. The village is a showpiece of dazzling white 17th-century houses, many boasting courtyards with hohlakia (black-and-white pebble mosaic DODECANESE

269 528 RHODES Eastern Rhodes Book accommodation online at RHODES Western Rhodes 529 DODECANESE floors). Once the dwellings of wealthy admirals, many have been bought and restored by foreign celebrities. The teeming main thoroughfares are lined with tourist shops and cafés, so you need to explore the labyrinthine alleyways on foot to fully appreciate the place. Lindos is the most famous of the ancient cities of the Dodecanese, and was an important Doric settlement because of its excellent vantage point and good harbour. It was first established around 2000 BC and is overlaid with a conglomeration of Byzantine, Frankish and Turkish remains. After the founding of the city of Rhodes, Lindos declined in commercial importance, but remained an important place of worship. The ubiquitous St Paul landed here en route to Rome. The Byzantine fortress was strengthened by the knights, and also used by the Turks. The 15th-century Church of Agios Ioannis, in the Acropolis, is festooned with 18th-century frescoes. ORIENTATION & INFORMATION The village is totally pedestrianised. All vehicular traffic terminates on the central square of Eleftherias, from where the main drag, Acropolis, begins. The donkey terminus, for rides up to the Acropolis, is a little way along here. Turn right at the donkey terminus to reach the post office, after 50m. By the donkey terminus is the Commercial Bank of Greece, with an ATM. The National Bank of Greece, located on the street opposite the Church of Agia Panagia, also has an ATM. Lindianet (% ; per hr 3.60; h9am- 9pm) Internet access plus ethernet cable connection for laptop owners. In lower village. Lindos Laundry (% ; Acropolis; per load 7.50) Laundry service and second-hand English books. Lindos Sun Tours (% ; Acropolis) Has room-letting services; also rents cars and motorcycles. Municipal Tourist Office (% ; Eleftherias; h7.30am-9pm) Helpful, although too few staff, too many tourists. You may have to wait a while. A handy private website with a number of alternative villa accommodation options. SIGHTS Acropolis of Lindos Spectacularly perched atop a 116m-high rock is the Acropolis (% ; admission 6; h8.30am-2.40pm Tue-Sun Sep-May, until 6pm Tue-Sun Jun-Aug). It s a strenuous 10-minute climb to the well-signposted entrance gate. Once inside, a flight of steps leads to a large square. On the left (facing the next flight of steps) is a trireme, hewn out of the rock by the sculptor Pythocretes; a statue of Hagesandros, priest of Poseidon, originally stood on the deck of the ship. At the top of the steps ahead you enter the Acropolis via a vaulted corridor. At the other end, turn sharp left through an enclosed room to reach a row of storerooms on the right. The stairway on the right leads to the remains of a 20-columned Hellenistic stoa (200 BC). The Byzantine Church of Agios Ioannis is to the right of this stairway. The wide stairway behind the stoa leads to a 5thcentury-BC propylaeum, beyond which is the 4th-century Temple to Athena, the site s most important ancient ruin. Athena was worshipped on Lindos as early as the 10th century BC, and this temple has replaced earlier ones on the site. From its far side there are splendid views of Lindos village and its beach. Donkey rides to the Acropolis cost 5 one way be aware that the poor creatures should not be carrying anyone over 50kg (112lbs), though this stipulation is rarely enforced. Better still; exercise your legs. SLEEPING Accommodation can be expensive, hard to find or already reserved, as much is prebooked. Budget accommodation is limited essentially to one remaining place. Pension Electra (% ; s/d 40/50; a) Your only budget option. Electra has an expansive and popular roof terrace with superb views and a beautiful shady garden. Rooms all have fridges and there is a communal kitchen. Follow the donkey route to find it. Filoxenia Guesthouse (% ; -filoxenia.com; d/ste incl breakfast 95/130; a) Consisting of five double rooms and three suites, these exceptionally tastefully decorated rooms inside a traditional house make for a cosy midrange choice. EATING Kalypso (% ; mains ) Set in one of Lindos historic buildings in the lower village, Kalypso is one of the better dining choices. Try either sausages in mustard, pork in a pot with oregano wine and spices (hirino stamnato), or rabbit stew in red wine with pearl onions. Mavrikos (% ; mains 7-10) Right by the bus and taxi terminal, Mavrikos is Lindos longest established and most respected restaurant. The extensive menu contains all the classic Greek dishes. In addition you should look out for individual creations, such as the fillet of port in kumquat sauce, or the chicken with fenugreek, saffron and pickled lemons. WESTERN RHODES Western Rhodes is greener and more forested than the east coast, but it s more exposed to winds so the sea tends to be rough, and the beaches are mostly of pebbles or stones. Nevertheless, tourist development has made strong inroads in the suburb resorts of Ixia, Trianda and Kremasti. Paradisi, despite being next to the airport, has retained some of the feel of a traditional village. Ancient Ialysos Αρχαία Iαλυσός Like Lindos, Ialysos, 10km south of Rhodes Town, is a hotchpotch of Doric, Byzantine and medieval remains. The Doric city was built on Filerimos Hill, an excellent vantage point, and attracted successive invaders over the years. The only ancient remains are the foundations of a 3rd-century-BC temple and a restored 4th-century-BC fountain. Also at the site are the Monastery of Our Lady and the Chapel of Agios Georgios. The ruined fortress (adult 4; h8am-5pm Tue- Sun) was used by Süleyman the Magnificent during his siege of Rhodes Town. No buses go to ancient Ialysos. The airport bus stops at Trianda, on the coast, from where Ialysos is 5km inland. Ancient Kamiros Αρχαία Κάμειρος The extensive ruins (adult 4; h8am-5pm Tue-Sun) of the Doric city of Kamiros stand on a hillside above the west coast, 34km south of Rhodes Town. The ancient city, known for its figs, oil and wine, reached the height of its powers in the 6th century BC. By the 4th century BC it had been superseded by Rhodes. Most of the city was destroyed by earthquakes in 226 and 142 BC, but the layout is still easily discernible. From the entrance walk straight ahead and down the steps. The semicircular rostrum on the right is where officials made speeches to the public. Opposite are the remains of a Doric temple, with one column still standing. The area next to it, with a row of intact columns, was probably where the public watched priests performing rites in the temple. Ascend the wide stairway to the ancient city s main street. Opposite the top of the stairs is one of the best preserved of the Hellenistic houses that once lined the street. Walk along the street, ascend three flights of steps and continue ahead to the ruins of the 3rd-century great stoa, which had a 206m portico supported by two rows of Doric columns. It was built on top of a huge 6th-century cistern that supplied the houses with rainwater through an advanced drainage system. Behind the stoa, at the city s highest point, stood the Temple to Athena, with terrific views inland. Buses from Rhodes Town to Kamiros stop on the coast road, 1km from the site. Ancient Kamiros to Monolithos Αρχαία Κάμειρος προς Μονόλιθο Skala Kamirou, 13.5km south of ancient Kamiros, is a fairly unremarkable place sporting a few market gardens, a scattering of tavernas and a petrol station. More importantly, it serves as the access port for travellers heading to and from the island of Halki ( p531 ). The road south from here to Monolithos has some of the island s most impressive scenery. From Skala Kamirou the road winds uphill, with great views across to Halki. This is just a taste of what s to come at the ruined 16thcentury Castle of Kastellos, reached by taking a rough turn-off from the main road, 2km beyond Skala Kamirou. There is a left fork to the wine-making area of Embonas ( p531 ) 8km further on. The main road continues for another 9km to Siana, a picturesque village below Mt Akramytis (825m), famed for its honey and souma a brew made from seasonal fruit, similar to Cretan raki (distilled grape spirit). The village of Monolithos, 5km beyond Siana, has the spectacularly sited 15thcentury Castle of Monolithos perched on a sheer 240m-high rock and reached via a dirt track. To enter, climb through the hole in the wall. Continuing along this track, bear right at the fork for Moni Agiou Georgiou, or left for the very pleasant shingled Fourni. Most people come this way en route to Halki via the afternoon caïque, or on a roundisland tour. While waiting for the ferry take a relaxed a lunch at O Loukas (% ; mains DODECANESE

270 530 RHODES Southern Rhodes HALKI 531 DODECANESE 5-8), the closest taverna to the ferry jetty. The menu is limited but is excellent value. The daily lunch specials including beer or wine are 13. SOUTHERN RHODES South of Lindos, Rhodes becomes progressively less developed. Although Pefki, 2km south of Lindos, does attract package tourists, it s still possible to escape them, away from the main beach. Lardos is a pleasant village 6km west of Lindos and 2km inland from Lardos. From the far side of Lardos a right turn leads in 4km to Moni Agias Ypsenis (Monastery of Our Lady) through hilly, green countryside. Heading south from Lardos, don t miss the almost hidden Glystra, 4km south along the coast road. This diminutive bay is one of the best swimming spots along the whole eastern coastline. The well-watered village of Laerma is 12km northwest of Lardos. From here it s another 5km to the beautifully sited 9th-century Moni Tharri, the island s first monastery, which has been re-established as a monastic community. It contains some fine 13th-century frescoes and is worth a visit. Asklipieio, 8km north of Gennadi, is an unspoilt village with the ruins of yet another castle and the 11th-century Church of Kimisis Theotokou, which has fine Byzantine wall paintings. Gennadi Γεννάδι pop 655 Gennadi (ye-nah-dhi), 13km south of Lardos, is an attractive, largely untouched agricultural, seaside village masquerading as a holiday centre. For independent travellers it s probably the best base for a protracted stay in the south. The village itself, a patchwork of narrow streets and whitewashed houses, is set several hundred metres back from the beach. There s a few sleeping and eating choices. Effie s Dreams Apartments (% ; d/tr 54/58; ai) offers both. It is right by an enormous 800-year-old mulberry tree and has modern, spotlessly clean studios with lovely rural and sea vistas from the communal balcony. The friendly Greek- Australian owners will meet you if you call ahead. Below the apartments, Effie s Dream Cafe Bar (% ; snacks 3-5) serves drinks and filling snacks, such as country-style sausage with onions and peppers. I Kouzina tis Mamas (% ; pasta 5-6) on the main street specialises in pizza and pasta, as well as a wide range of Greek grills. Gennadi to Prasonisi Γεννάδι προς Πρασονήσι From Gennadi an almost uninterrupted beach of pebbles, shingle and sand dunes extends down to Plimmyri, 11km south. It s easy to find deserted stretches. From Plimmyri the main road continues to Kattavia, Rhodes most southerly village. The 11km dirt road north to Messanagros winds through terrific scenery. From Kattavia a 10km road leads south to remote Cape Prasonisi, the island s southernmost point, once joined to Rhodes by a narrow sandy isthmus but now split by encroaching seas. It s a popular spot for windsurfing. A good place to sleep is at Lahania, signposted 2km off the main highway, in Studios Alonia (% ; studios 42;a), where each self-catering studio has a kitchenette and fridge. These are owned by the proprietors of Taverna Platanos (% ; mains 3-5), a relaxed taverna in the main square of Lahania that underwent a recent major facelift. Down on Prasonisi, Faros Taverna (% ; mains 5-8) is one of two tavernas on the beach. The food is uncomplicated and features grills and fish, while the comfortable rooms (doubles 40) attract a mainly windsurfing crowd. South of Monolithos Lonely and exposed, Rhodes southwest coast doesn t see as many visitors as other parts of the island. Forest fires in recent years have devastated many of the west-facing hillsides and there is a general end-of-the-world feeling about the whole region. The beaches south of Monolithos are prone to strong winds. From the important crossroads village of Apolakkia, 10km south of Monolithos, a road crosses the island to Gennadi, passing through the unspoilt villages of Arnitha and Vati with an optional detour to Istrios and Profilia, where you can dine in rustic comfort at To Limeri tou Listi (% ; mains 6-8) on dishes such as rooster in red-wine sauce or other solid country fare. A turn-off to the left, 7km south of Apolakkia, leads to the 18th-century Moni Skiadi. It s a serene place with terrific views down to the coast, and there is free basic accommodation for visitors. THE INTERIOR The east west roads that cross the island have great scenery and very little traffic. If you have transport, they re well worth exploring. It s also good cycling territory if you have a suitably geared bicycle. Petaloudes Πεταλούδες Known as the Valley of the Butterflies, Petaloudes (adult 1-3; h8.30am-sunset 1 May-30 Sep) is one of the more popular sights on the package-tour itinerary. It s reached along a 6km turn-off from the west-coast road, 2.5km south of Paradisi. The so-called butterflies are in fact strikingly coloured moths (Callimorpha quadripunctarea) that are lured to this gorge of rustic footbridges, streams and pools by the scent of the resin exuded by the storax trees. While the moths have undoubtedly benefited from having a reserve of their own, there is an inevitable trade-off as they become an object of human curiosity. So regardless of what you may see other people doing, do not clap your hands or make any noises to disturb the butterflies as their numbers are under threat due to such unwanted noise disturbance. Around Petaloudes From Petaloudes a winding cross-island road leads to the 18th-century Moni Kalopetras, built by Alexander Ypsilandis, the grandfather of the Greek freedom fighter. This same road leads north across the central mountain spine of roads through a rather dry landscape full of olive trees to the pretty village of Psinthos, which makes for a very pleasant lunch break. From Psinthos you can choose to loop back to Rhodes Town (22km), via a fast but undistinguished direct route passing through Kalythies, or head further south and pick up the very pretty cross-island route from Kolymbia to Salakos. Just off the main square in Psinthos you ll find the well-regarded Pigi Fasouli Estiatorio (% ; mains 5-7), where you dine under cool plane trees next to running water all to the sound of incessant cicadas. Good dishes on offer are goat and chickpeas, pork and lima beans, and small pies called pitaroudia. Wine Country From Salakos you may detour to Embonas on the slopes of Mt Attavyros ( 1215m), the island s highest mountain. Embonas is the wine capital of Rhodes and produces some of the island s best tipples. The red Cava Emery, or Zacosta and white Villare are good choices. You can taste and buy them at Emery Winery (% ; admission free; h9.30am-3.30pm) in Embonas. Embonas is no great shakes itself, despite being touted by the tourism authorities as a traditional village. However, Bakis (% ; mains 5-8) on the main square is a good spot to try some grills from local meat. The païdakia (spare-rib chops), or the chunky kondosouvli (Cypriot-style spit-roast kebabs) are particularly succulent. You may nonetheless wish to detour around Mt Attavyros to Agios Isidoros, 14km south of Embonas, a prettier and still unspoilt wine-producing village that you can visit en route to Siana. HALKI ΧΑΛΚΗ pop 313 The dry rocky island of Halki (hal-ki) lies almost unnoticed, piggybacked off the western flank of its larger neighbour Rhodes. Out of reach of most day-trip excursions from Rhodes, Halki sees a steady flow of visitors who come for its relaxation value. Almost abandoned at the turn of the 20th century when the sponge-fishing industry took a nose dive, Halki existed in almost forgotten silence until the vacation boom of the 1970s and 1980s saw its fortunes rise once more. Most people come to stay in restored stone villas that once belonged to sea captains. There s not a lot to do other than chill out, read, contemplate, eat, swim and socialise. There s little traffic on the island and most people walk to where they want to go. Admittedly, the palpable foreign element has sanitised the Greek element somewhat but Halki still has soul and a Greek one at that. If you are a bibliophile, a poet, a writer, spiritually motivated or incurably romantic, Halki is ideal for you. DODECANESE

271 532 HALKI Emborios Book accommodation online at HALKI Around Halki 533 DODECANESE HALKI A E G E A N Moni Agiou Ioanni S E A K A R P A T H I A N Tarpon Springs Blvd Halki Horio Knights of St John Castle Yiali Cove Yiali 0 3 km 0 2 miles Areta S E A Trahia To Karpathos (50km); Kasos (110km); Crete (160km); Piraeus (400km) Emborios Podamos Kania Ftenagia To Rhodes (10km) Getting There & Away CAÏQUE & BUS There is a daily local ferry to Halki at 2.30pm from Skala Kamirou ( 8.50, 1½ hours) on Rhodes. From Halki to Skala Kamirou the ferry leaves at 6am Monday to Friday and Sunday, 7am on Saturday. A bus to Rhodes Town connects with the arriving ferry at 7.40am and at 9.30am on Saturday. There is no bus on Sunday. Walk 150m from the Skala Kamirou ferry quay to the main road to find the bus stop. The two ferries operating the route are the Nissos Halki (% ) and the Nikos Ex press (% ). FERRY Ferries serves Halki three times weekly in either direction, with services to Rhodes ( 8, two hours), Pigadia on Karpathos ( 11.50, three hours), Sitia on Crete ( 20, 7½ hours), Santorini ( 27, 15 hours) and Piraeus ( 34, 22 hours). A Nisyros Tilos Rhodes Halki service commenced at the time of writing with the small Panagia Spiliani. Tickets are available from Chalki Tours and Zifos Travel in Emborios (see right ). Getting Around There is a minibus that runs hourly from Emborios to and from Moni Agiou Ioanni ( 2) and stops in between. There is also an overpriced taxi (% ; Emborios), that charges 4 to Pondamos from Emborios, 6.50 to Ftenagia and 33 return to Moni Agiou Ioanni. There are no rental cars or motorcycles, but there is a water taxi to the main beaches and excursions to the island of Alimia ( 30). Additionally, day excursions are run on Sundays in summer to Tilos ( 23) by the two Skala Kamirou ferries (see left ). EMBORIOS ΕΜΠΟΡΕΙΟΣ pop 52 The picturesque port village of Emborios resembles Gialos on Symi, but on a smaller scale. The port is draped around a narrow horseshoe bay, and surrounded by former sea captains mansions some renovated, some in a state of disrepair, yet slowly being renovated. They garland the petite, crystal-blue harbour waters in an almost externally voyeuristic display of blue- and brown-shuttered windows. Cars are banned from the harbour once the ferries have come and gone, so the waterside always enjoys a relaxing, vehicle-free setting. Orientation & Information Boats arrive at the middle of Emborios. Most commercial services and accommodation options are within 200m of the harbour. The free quarterly newspaper the Halki Visitor, available on the island from the two travel agencies among other outlets is a good source of local information. There s a reliable DodecNet ATM in a stand-alone booth on the harbour itself. Chalki Tours (% ; fax ) For assistance on accommodation, travel, excursions and currency exchange. Diafora (% ; per 30min 6) Internet access; behind the bakery in Emborios. Doctor (% ; h9am-noon & 6-8pm Mon- Fri) Can be contacted on call. Port police (% ) On the harbour. Post office (h9am-1.30pm Mon-Fri) On the harbour. A helpful reference point. A useful website hosted by the local newspaper. Zifos Travel (% ; zifos-travel@rho.forthnet. gr) For assistance on accommodation, travel, excursions and currency exchange. Sights Halki s main visual feature are the old mansions that festoon the harbour. Many have been, or are being, restored to their former glory, while others are in a complete state of disrepair, overgrown with weeds and decrepit. Either way they give Halki that picturesque look that visitors so appreciate. The impressive stone clock tower at the southern side of the harbour is a gift from the Halkiots of Florida. While the clock tower may look resolutely impressive, don t rely on it for the time; each of the four faces is stuck on a different hour of the day. The Church of Agios Nikolaos has the tallest belfry in the Dodecanese and boasts a particularly well-made and impressive pebbled courtyard on the east side. There is a small upstairs museum (adult 2; h6-7pm Mon & Fri, 11amnoon Sun) with ecclesiastical exhibits. Sleeping Most villa and studio accommodation is prebooked by foreign tour companies. What little private accommodation there is can be in high demand, so bookings are best. There is no formal hotel as yet on the island, though the old sponge factory on the south side of the harbour was due to open by the time of this book s publication. Avgi Rooms (% ; s/d 30-40) Slapbang in the middle of the harbour next to the minimarket are a clutch of simple rooms for travel-weary voyagers arriving from an afternoon or evening ferry. Call ahead to be sure of a bed. Captain s House (%/fax ; captains house@ath.forthnet.gr; d 35-40) This homey 19thcentury house, with period furniture and a tranquil tree-shaded garden, is perhaps the most comfortable place to stay for solo travellers. Bookings are always recommeded. Mouthouria (% ; halkifrances@yahoo.co.uk; house 65-95, minimum stay 2 nights) Rent a whole renovated captain s house that can accommodate up to six people. It s spacious, fully equipped, has superb south-side harbour views, and is ideal for longer stays and romantic getaways. ovilla Praxithea (% ; lapraxithea.com; apt ) If you like to be close to the water, check out this set of fully furnished high-ceilinged and wooden-floored rooms. Available as individual rooms or as an apartment package, they are a 200m hike to the right of the port jetty. Owned by the same family as Villa Aristea, it s ideal for couples or families with up to two children. Eating Mavri Thalassa (% ; mains 4-6) This restaurant at the south side of the harbour is generally well regarded and offers fresh seafood dishes. The whole grilled calamari, when available fresh, is delicate and soft, while the local, minuscule Halki shrimps eaten whole are initially crunchy and then beautifully succulent. Maria s Taverna (% ; mains 4-7) Dishes up solidly satisfying and reliable home-cooked fare, with Halki lamb stew being the house speciality and spaghetti bolognese well recommended. Its drawcard is its central location under the few shady trees left in the port village. Avra (% ; mains 4-7) Avra offers fast, efficient service and a comprehensive and tempting mezes and mains menu. The Georgian owners serve excellent chicken dishes, while Halki shrimps downed with draught white wine will assuage jaded travel taste buds. Remezzo (% ; mains 5-7) Touting itself as a pizza and pasta joint, its menu transcends Italian offerings. The Mexican bean and corn-charged salad gives respite from the omnipresent Greek salad while the baked halvas and apple desert will caress post-prandial taste buds. AROUND HALKI Podamos is the closest and the best beach, located 1km from Emborios in the direction of Horio. The narrowish beach is sandy and the water is shallow ideal for kids. For food you can try the Podamos Taverna (% ; mains 5-7; hlunch), which also offers four basic rooms. Ftenagia, past the headland and 500m to the south of Emborios, is a mite short in the sand stakes, but there is excellent rock swimming and it offers good snorkelling. The Ftenagia Taverna (% ; mains 5-7; hlunch & dinner) is a cosy waterside eatery with friendly service and a range of satisfying lunch and dinner choices. Horio, a 30-minute walk along Tarpon Springs Blvd from Emborios, was once a thriving community of 3000 people, but it s now almost completely derelict, bar a small church and a few renovated structures. A barely perceptible path leads from Horio s churchyard to a Knights of St John castle, with spectacular views. DODECANESE

272 534 KARPATHOS Getting There & Away Book accommodation online at KARPATHOS Pigadia 535 DODECANESE Moni Agiou Ioanni is a two-hour, unshaded 8km walk along a broad concrete road from Horio. The church and courtyard, protected by the shade of an enormous cypress tree, is a quiet, tranquil place, but it comes alive each year on 28 and 29 August during the feast of the church s patron, St John. KARPATHOS ΚΑΡΠΑΘΟΣ pop 6084 Like an elongated bridge between Rhodes and Crete, Karpathos (kar-pa-thos) offers a winning mix of size, scenery, beach scenes, food and culture, making a visit to this southern Dodecanese destination a winner. While off the beaten track somewhat, the island is well served by transport and even attracts a slow but steady trail of packaged visitors. It s an island with an anonymous history and doesn t feature prominently in the chronicles of the region. Many of its inhabitants migrated to the USA, from where they slowly trickle back and invest their overseas earnings into their homeland. It s an island with a pleasant feel a comfortable mix of mountain, sea and plains. It showcases some stunning beaches with excellent diving, while windsurfing devotees flock to its windy southern shores to engage in fast and furious water fun. The north of the island is an almost separate destination. Isolated for years from the south by an atrocious and precipitous road, it stubbornly survives and proudly sports a village that is as culturally idiosyncratic as anywhere in the Aegean. Getting There & Away AIR In summer there are 10 flights weekly to and from Athens ( 73), seven weekly to Kasos ( 25, five minutes) and Sitia ( 47, one hour), and up to three daily to Rhodes ( 28, 25 minutes). Olympic Airlines (% ; airlines.com) is on the central square in Pigadia. The airport is 13km southwest of Pigadia. FERRY LANE Lines of Crete provides three services weekly to Rhodes ( 18.50, four hours) via Halki ( 11.50, three hours), as well as to Piraeus KARPATHOS 0 6 km 0 4 miles S E A O F C R E T E Lefkos Cape Agios Theodoros Roman Cistern Kamarakia Adia Cape Proni Agios Georgios Agios Nikolaos Cape Akrotiri Cape Vroukounda Moni Agiou Ioanni Mesohori Spoa Karpathos Avlona Moni Agiou Konstantinou Diafani Mt Profitis Ilias (716m) Agios Nikolaos Mertonas Kali Limni (1215m) Aperi Volada Pyles Finiki Arkasa Cape Kastello Apella Othos Olymbos Menetes Tristomo Vroukounda Ammoöpi Afiartis Bay Cape Lingi Saria Agios Minas Karpathos Strait Cape Paraspori Excursion Boat To Kasos (10km); Crete (80km); Piraeus (420km) To Halki (50km); Rhodes (60km) Kyra Panagia Kato Lakos Ahata Vrondi Bay Pigadia Excursion Boat Vananda Cape Volakas ( 33, 18½ hours) via Kasos ( 7.50, 1½ hours), Sitia ( 17, 4¼ hours), Agios Nikolaos ( 20, seven hours), Milos ( 33, 13 hours) and Santorini ( 26, 10 hours). Tickets can be bought from Possi Travel (% ; possitvl@hotmail.com; Apodimon Karpathion) in Pigadia. Getting Around TO/FROM THE AIRPORT There is no airport bus. Travellers must take a taxi ( 15) or seek independent transport. BUS Pigadia is the transport hub of the island; a schedule is posted at the bus terminus (% ; M Mattheou). Buses ( 1.50 to 2) serve most of the settlements in southern Karpathos, including the west-coast beaches. There is no bus between Pigadia and Olymbos or Diafani in the north, but in summer a bus meets the excursion boats from Pigadia at Diafani and connects to Olymbos. CAR, MOTORCYCLE & BICYCLE On the east side of Pigadia, Rent a Car Circle (% ; 28 Oktovriou) rents cars and motorcycles. Possi Travel (% ; possitvl@hotmail.com; Apodimon Karpathion) also arranges car rental. The precipitous, and at times hairy, 19.5km stretch of road from Spoa to Olymbos is being slowly graded and will one day be sealed. You can drive it with care; do not tackle this road by motorcycle or scooter. If you rent a vehicle and plan to drive to Olymbos, opt for a small jeep and fill up your tank before you leave. EXCURSION BOAT In summer there is a daily excursion boat from Pigadia to Diafani (return including the bus to Olymbos 20, one way excluding the bus to Olymbos 8). There are also frequent boats to the beaches of Kyra Panagia and Apella ( 10). Tickets can be bought at the quay. From Diafani, excursion boats go to nearby beaches and occasionally to the uninhabited islet of Saria, where there are some Byzantine remains. See p539 for details. TA X I Pigadia s taxi rank (% ; Dimokratias) is close to the centre of town. A price list is displayed. A taxi to Ammoöpi costs 8, the airport 15, Arkasa and Pyles 16, and Kyra Panagia 20. PIGADIA ΠΗΓΑΔΙΑ pop 1692 After being spoilt with the picturesque harbours of Symi, Chalki and Kastellorizo, Pigadia (pi-gha-dhi-ya), Karpathos capital and main port, does not immediately grab your attention. It s a modern town and is attractive enough in its own way, but without any eminent buildings or sites. Much of the cement-based architecture was erected during a boom in the 1960s and 70s. Upon further investigation, however, Pigadia is a pleasant and busy town. It is built on the edge of Vrondi Bay, a 4km-long sandy beach where you can rent water-sports equipment. A 2km walk southwest along the beach are the remains of the early Christian Basilica of Agia Fotini. Orientation & Information The ferry quay is at the northern end of the wide harbour. It s a short walk to the centre of Pigadia, which is punctuated by the main street, Apodimon Karpathion. This in turn leads west to the central square of 5 Oktovriou. Caffe Galileo Internet 2000 (% ; Apodimon Karpathion; per hr 3; h9am-2pm & 6pm-1am) Offers internet access. National Bank of Greece (Apodimon Karpathion) Has an ATM. NewsStand (% ; Dimokratias) Sells foreign newspapers and magazines. Police (% ) Near the hospital at the western end of town. Possi Travel (% ; possitvl@hotmail.com; Apodimon Karpathion) The main travel agency for ferry and air tickets. Post office (Ethnikis Andistasis) Near the hospital. Pot Pourri (% ; Apodimon Karpathion; per hr 3; h7am-1am) Offers internet access. Tourist information office (% ; hjul- Aug) In a kiosk in the middle of the seafront. Mainly local information mixed Greek and English. General travel and island information in English. Sleeping There s plenty of accommodation in Pigadia; a few enterprising owners meet the boats. Avra Hotel (% ; fax ; 28 Oktovriou 50; s/d 20/25) This E-class hotel has small but comfortable rooms with ceiling fan, fridge and a small common kitchen. DODECANESE

273 536 KARPATHOS Pigadia Book accommodation online at KARPATHOS Southern Karpathos 537 DODECANESE Elias Rooms (% ; s/d 20/25, s/d apt 25/35; i) Cosy Elias Rooms is located in a quiet part of town with great views and a lot of convenience. Choose a room or a larger traditional apartment. Owner Ilias Hatzigeorgiou is a mine of local information. Hotel Karpathos (% ; fax ; s/d 30/35; a) Where budget takes precedence over complete comfort you might just give this C-class hotel a look-in. Appearing a tad old and jaded from the outside, the rooms inside are well-lit, airy and comfortable enough. It also has a TV and fridge. Amarylis Hotel (%/fax ; s/d 35/50; a) In a quiet part of Pigadia is this C-class hotel, offering a mixture of airy and exceptionally clean studios and apartments. PIGADIA To Basilica of Agia Fotni (2km); Aperi (8km) 19 INFORMATION Caffe Galileo Internet B3 National Bank of Greece & ATM... 2 C3 News Stand... 3 D3 Police... 4 A3 Post Office... 5 A4 Pot Pourri... 6 B3 Tourist Information Office.. 7 B3 SLEEPING Amaryllis Hotel... 8 D4 Avra Hotel... 9 D4 Elias Rooms D4 Hotel Karpathos D4 Hotel Titania D4 Odyssey Hotel D4 4 M Mattheou Hospital 5 Ethnikis Andistasis 5 Oktovriou Georgiou Loizou 25 Martiou 24 6 EATING I Anna D2 I Zoi ton Angelon C3 Mike's Restaurant C3 To Helliniko D3 To Perigiali D3 TRANSPORT Boat to Diafani (& Olymbos)...(see 20) Bus Terminus A3 Excursion Boats D2 Ferry Quay C1 Olympic Airlines B3 Possi Travel C3 Rent A Car Circle B4 Taxi Rank D4 22 Mitropolitou Apostolou 1 7 To Ammoõpi (5km); Airport (13km) m miles 15 Vrondi Bay Dimokratias Apodimon Karpathion Pigadia Harbour Oktovriou 8 All have kitchenette and TV, and at least half of them enjoy sea views. Hotel Titania (% ; s/d 40/55; a) Handy for out-of-season travellers, the Titania is open all year. While the lobby looks a bit gloomy with its heavy, dated furniture, the rooms are of standard comfort and do have a fridge and a TV. Request a seaview room if you can. Odyssey Hotel (% ; pathos.gr; studios 50/65 a) When self-catering is your preferred option, look no further than this tidy and welcoming complex set back in a quiet part of Pigadia. Owner Helen Stamatiadis offers a choice of small to capacious studios that can cater for between four and six people. They are well equipped, very comfortable and, most importantly for a longer stay, have room to breathe. Eating There are plenty of choices when it comes to eating. The waterfront establishments tend to be hit and miss when it comes to quality, though there are some exceptions. Makarounes (home-made pasta cooked with cheese and onions) is the local speciality. I Zoi ton Angelon (% ; Apodimon Karpathion; mains ) Overlooking the harbour and set around a balcony running along the building, this quirky little eatery does some top dishes. There s a vegetarian platter for meat avoiders. Then there s a rich and filling beef stew, runner beans in tomato sauce, sardines and an excellent spicy cheese salad. To Perigiali (% ; Apodimon Karpathion; mains 3-8) Lurking unobtrusively among its more commercial neighbours, this little ouzerie (place that serves ouzo and light snacks) is a cut above most. Fish mezedhes feature predominantly, though you might graze on the rich Karpathian salad with capers or sample some steamed snails. Mike s Restaurant (% ; grills 6-8) One of the longer-standing and more popular eateries, and now under the management of Manolis and Minas, Mike s serves consistently good, solid fare with bright service. Among the specials are chicken spaghetti and stuffed zucchini flowers. I Anna (% ; Apodimon Karpathion; mains ) Ignore the fading picture menus and tacky restaurant sign and snap up Pigadia s freshest fish, caught daily off the owner s own boats. Other suggested dishes are fisherman s macaroni with octopus, shrimps and mussels, or the Karpathian sardines in oil. oto Helliniko (% ; Apodimon Karpathion; daily specials 5-11;hyear-round) Boasting a pleasant outdoor terrace and a tasteful interior, the Helliniko is very popular. Check the daily specials board for the best deal. The Karpathian goat cooked in a tomato purée is particularly commendable, as is the hearty Karpathian salad, which includes egg and potato. SOUTHERN KARPATHOS Ammoöpi Αμμοöπή If you are seeking sun and sand, and some of the best and clearest water for snorkelling in the whole of the Aegean, head for Ammoöpi (amm-oh-oh-pee), 5km south of Pigadia. Ammoöpi is a scattered beach resort without any real centre or easily identifiable landmarks. In addition to snorkelling, die-hard windsurfers in the know head for the broad Afiartis Bay, a further 8km south of Ammoöpi, to enjoy some world-class conditions. The bay supports windsurfing centres and caters for advanced surfers at the northern end and beginners in the sheltered Makrygialos Bay lagoon at the southern end. While most surfers come on package tours from Germany, casual blow-ins are more than welcome. One particularly good outfit is Pro Center (% ; Afiarti). SLEEPING & EATING All sleeping and eating recommendations are at the northern end of Ammoöpi. There is a pretty wide choice of options. The places to eat are rather scattered. Hotel Sophia (%/fax ; d/tr 40/47; as) For starters, this is a quiet and comfortable midrange hotel at the northern end of the settlement. Blue Sea Hotel (%/fax ; huguette@rho.forthnet.gr; d/t incl breakfast 45/50) Just in front of Hotel Sophia and marginally better, this hotel has 27 comfortable double rooms, each with fridge and ceiling fan. ovardes (%/fax ; vardes.com; s/d 45/55; a) For a really laid-back and relaxing choice try Vardes, a small block of tasteful, spacious and airy studios, set back against the hillside among a lush olive grove and a few banana palms. All have large, breezy rooms, shaded balcony, phone and TV. Ammoöpi Taverna (% ; mains 4-7) At the far northern end of Ammoöpi and right on the beach, the food here is uniformly good. Look for the daily specials the clove-laced mousakas (sliced eggplant and mincemeat arranged in layers and baked) excels. There is a fairly genuine Greek music night once a week. Taverna Helios (% ; mains 5-7) Just back from the main beach and handy for lunch after a swim, Helios offers Greek and international cuisine with large portions. Menetes Μενετές pop 450 Menetes (me-ne-tes) is perched precariously on top of a sheer cliff overlooking the rolling landscape leading to Pigadia, 8km distant. DODECANESE

274 538 KARPATHOS Southern Karpathos KARPATHOS Northern Karpathos 539 DODECANESE It s a picturesque, unspoilt village with pastelcoloured neoclassical houses lining its main street. Behind the main street are narrow, stepped alleyways that wind between more modest whitewashed dwellings. The village has a small but well-presented museum (admission free) on the right as you come in from Pigadia. Opening hours are upon request the owner of Taverna Manolis will open it up for you. There is only one place to stay and that s on the north side of Menetes; Mike Rigas Domatia (% ; d/tr 20/25), signposted on the outside as Rigas Kato Nero. Its eight rooms bask in a traditional flower-bedecked Karpathian house, caressed by a fruit and vegetable-filled garden and accompanied by a menagerie of languid dogs and cats. Stop by Taverna Manolis (% ; mains 5-7) for generous helpings of grilled meat, or take a break at Dionysos Fiesta (% ; mains 5-7), specialising in local dishes, including an omelette made with artichokes and Karpathian sausages. Top culinary marks go to Pelagia Taverna (% ; mains 5-8), on the road down to (or up from) Ammoöpi, where free-range goat and lamb are on offer. Opt for the Karpathian salad, the local sheep s milk and white manouri cheese or the excellent mashed fava lentils served with raw onion. Arkasa & Finiki Αρκάσα & Φοινίκι The west coast is a little wilder than the Pigadia side, yet it has its own beauty. There are few settlements and only a few decent places to swim. Coming from Pigadia via Menetes you will come across the two main settlements. Arkasa (ar-ka-sa), 9km from Menetes, has morphed from being a traditional Karpathian village into a low-key resort of sorts. The village itself is set back from its beach annexe. Follow a turn-off for 500m to the remains of the 5th-century Basilica of Agia Sophia, where two chapels stand amid mosaic fragments and columns. Agios Nikolaos is just south across the headland from here. The serene fishing village of Finiki (fi-ni-ki) lies 2km north of Arkasa. The best local swimming is at Agios Georgios between Arkasa and Finiki, though the small, sandy and protected beach in Finiki itself is OK. Kamarakia, signposted before Agios Georgios, is a narrow protected cove, but there are strong sea currents. Sleeping is neat at Glaros Studios (% ; fax ; Agios Nikolaos; studios 55-60), right on Agios Nikolaos. Done out in Karpathian style, the few studios have raised sofa-like beds and large terraces with sun beds that enjoy a cool sea breeze. There s a relaxed adjoining restaurant with a limited but satisfactory menu. On the road to Finiki, Eleni Studios (%/fax ; Arkasa; apt 50; s) has fully equipped and very tidy apartments built around a relaxing garden. There s an on-site bar, too, for sunset drinks. In Finiki an obvious yet recommendable place to eat is the Finiki View Taverna (% ; mains ). Taking poll position on the location stakes overlooking the beach this place does look touristy, but it s Greek enough when it comes to the crunch. The whitebait, octopus salad or the caper salad are all excellent options. Some 9km north of Finiki, just before the road winds uphill to Lefkos, are the secluded Pine Tree Studios (% ; pinetree_ adia@hotmail.com; Adia; d 35;a). These comfortable studios with views over to Kasos make for a quiet rural retreat and include an excellent yet casual outdoor restaurant specialising in dishes cooked in a wood oven. Taste the katsiki stifadho (goat in red-wine sauce). The studios are equipped with fridge and kitchenette. Owner Nikos Papanikolaou will tell you about a therapeutic mineral water spring nearby. Don t miss it. Walkers might want to hike up the Flaskia Gorge, or as an easier option hike to the nearby Iliondas. Again Nikos Papanikolaou will provide details. Lefkos Λευκός pop 120 LeLefkosfkos (lef-kos), 13km north of Finiki and 2km down from the main coastal road, is a burgeoning resort centred on a series of attractive, sandy coves. In summer Lefkos can get crowded, but at other times it still has a rugged, all-mine feel about it. Archaeology buffs may care to explore the underground remains of a Roman cistern, reached by heading up the approach road and looking for the brown-and-yellow sign on the left to the catacombs. Accommodation is often prebooked but you can almost always find a spot upon arrival. There are many options, among which a solid choice would have to be Le Grand Bleu (%/fax ; studio/apt 55/90;i), a set of tastefully decorated studios and larger apartments fully equipped for easy self-catering; wi-fi should be available by the time you read this. It overlooks the curving Gialou Horafi middle beach. Nearby and abutting the beach in the Frangolimnionas neighbourhood of Lefkos are the three separate blocks of Aegean View Studios (%/fax ; studios 45), run by a Greek Australian. An uncomplicated and economical bet, all studios are airy and have modern kitchenettes. Come dine time, head to the little harbour where, of the handful of tavernas, Dramundana (% ; mains 5-8) is an unfussy, homey place with a dishes to look and pick. Fish cakes and fragrant chicken stand out. Better still, Le Grand Bleu (%/fax ; mains ) also boasts a commendable taverna. It offers a shady retreat from the beach, and is neat and flower-decked. Mezedhes include garlic mushrooms and a vegetarian-cooked imam baïldi (eggplant in oil with herbs), while the Karpathian mixed platter comprising sausages, cheese, capers and sardines will fill. GETTING THERE & AROUND There are daily buses to Lefkos and a taxi from Pigadia costs 24. Hitching can be slow as there is not much traffic. Lefkos Rent A Car (%/fax ; sissamis@hol.gr) is a reliable outlet with competitive prices: 30 a day in summer for a small car. Owner Nikos will deliver vehicles, free of charge, to anywhere in southern Karpathos. NORTHERN KARPATHOS Diafani Διαφάνι pop 250 Diafani is Karpathos small northern port, where scheduled ferries stop regularly and in summer an excursion boat arrives daily from Pigadia. It s a lazy indolent kind of place and is in stark contrast to its busy sister port, Pigadia, to the south. If you are visiting Olymbos by boat, you will pass through Diafani. In summer, buses meet the daily excursion boat and transport visitors to Olymbos. Otherwise, scheduled buses leave for Olymbos daily at 7.30am, 2.30pm and 5pm year-round. There s no post office or ATM, so bring cash supplies with you. Currency-exchange facilities are available, however. There s a fair smattering of accommodation choices. These include the comfortable Balaskas Hotel (%/fax ; s/d 30/40;a), a pleasant option set back from the waterfront, where all rooms have fridge, TV and phone. On the waterfront itself, at the northern end, Thalassa View Apartments (% ; studios 35-45;a) are modern and very comfortable, and handy for a quick swim off the pebbled harbour beach. There are a number of places to dine along the waterfront. Rahati (% ; mains ) is a newish eatery with a line of organic dishes, such as green beans in tomato sauce, as well as octopus in red wine sauce and the more common fish options. La Gorgona (% ; mains 4-7) is a casual, Italian-style café-restaurant with top-class coffee, snacks and a variety of pasta offerings. You can take short excursion trips on the Captain Manolis out of Diafani to the remoter and otherwise inaccessible other than on foot reaches of Karpathos. The boat typically leaves for trips to the satellite island of Saria at around 10.30am. Walkers may want to explore the region on foot. The Road Editions 1: Karpathos- Kasos map (available in Pigadia) details several walking trails to the Hellenistic site of Vrykounda with its few remaining walls, via the agricultural village of Avlona, with a seasonal taverna, or to the sheltered bay and anchorage of Tristomo. Take all your food and water with you as there are no facilities up here. An alternative coastal track will bring you back via Vananda, where there is a camping ground. Olymbos Ολυμπος pop 330 Clinging to the ridge of barren Mt Profitis Ilias (716m), and 4km inland from Diafani, Olymbos is ostensibly a living museum where, to this day, the inhabitants speak in a vernacular that contains some Doric words. Women are seen wearing bright, embroidered skirts, waistcoats, headscarves and goatskin boots, and still bake their bread in outdoor communal ovens. The interiors of the houses are decorated with embroidered cloth and their façades feature brightly painted, ornate plaster reliefs. Olymbos, however, is no longer a pristine backwater caught in a time warp. Tourism has taken hold in a big way and is now a DODECANESE

275 540 KASOS History KASOS Fry 541 DODECANESE vital money spinner for the villagers. The traditional village is finding it ever harder to remain genuine and is in danger of becoming a kind of kitsch eco-disney for daytrippers from Pigadia. Olymbos is certainly fascinating and picturesque, but is sadly rather overrated for what it ultimately has to offer. Accommodation in the village is pretty basic. At the far end of Olymbos and close to the central square, Hotel Aphrodite (% ; filippasfilipakkis@yahoo.gr; d 40) is as good as it s going to get. It has simply furnished, airy rooms and impressive west-facing sea views. If you don t mind a shoebox-sized sleeping space reminiscent of Japanese cubicle hotels, the traditional rooms of the Olymbos Taverna (% ; s/d 30/35) might just suffice for a night s sleep. Makarounes is served in Olymbos in most restaurants. The best place to eat would have to be the atmospherically endowed Taverna O Mylos (% ; mains ) on the north side of the village. Built around a restored and working windmill, the excellent food is cooked in a wood oven and features organic meat and vegetable produce, including goat in red-wine sauce, artichokes and filling pites (pies). At the south side of the village, on the main street, Olymbos Taverna (% ; mains 3-4) is a good place for makarounes, and there s a daily changing menu of ovencooked specials that includes artichokes in oil, or mizithropittes (small pites made from a sweet cottage cheese). KASOS ΚΑΣΟΣ pop 980 Strung like a punctuation mark between Karpathos and Crete, Kasos (ka-sos) is one of the remotest outposts of the scattered Aegean islands. Most travellers don t even know of its existence. Few ever make it to the far southwest Dodecanese, where this speck of rock and people thrives almost unnoticed, yet welcomes its visitors with a broad smile and a warm embrace. There are no enticing beaches, throbbing nightlife or major archaeological sites, and on the face of it, little to entice a wayward traveller. Yet Kasos attracts in its own inimitable way. It s an island of olive and fig trees, prickly pears, dry-stone walls, sheep, goats and birds. Its craggy peaks are often shrouded in mist and ferries are frequently diverted. The Kasiots are friendly, curious and open, yet not totally driven by the tourist euro. Come for a day or two and you may end up staying a week. It s that kind of place. History Despite being diminutive and remote, Kasos has an eventful history. During Turkish rule the island flourished, and by 1820 it had 11,000 inhabitants and a large mercantile fleet. Mohammad Ali, the Turkish governor of Egypt, regarded this fleet as an impediment to his plan to establish a base on Crete from which to attack the Peloponnese and quell the uprising. On 7 June 1824 Ali s men landed on Kasos and killed around 7000 inhabitants. This massacre is commemorated annually on the anniversary of the slaughter, and Kasiots return from around the world to participate. During the late 19th century, many Kasiots emigrated to Egypt and around 5000 of them helped build the Suez Canal. During the last century many emigrated to the USA. Getting There & Away AIR There are up to eight flights weekly in summer to Rhodes ( 38, 1¼ hours), Karpathos ( 25, 10 minutes) and Sitia ( 42, 40 minutes). Olympic Airlines (% ; airlines.com; Kritis) is at the airport. EXCURSION BOAT The Athina excursion boat (% , ) travels daily in summer, departing at 3pm and returning at 7pm from Fry to the uninhabited Armathia Islet (return 15), where there are some superb sandy beaches. FERRY LANE Lines of Crete includes Kasos on its long run to/from Rhodes and Piraeus via Karpathos, Crete and Milos. Destinations include Piraeus ( 32.50, 17 hours), Rhodes ( 22, 6½ hours) and Sitia ( 10.50, 2½ hours). There are usually three departures weekly in each direction. A small local caïque runs three times weekly between Fry and Finiki on Karpathos. Check locally for details. Getting Around The local bus serves all the villages of the island with a dozen or so scheduled runs; tickets are all There are two taxis (% , ) on the island. Scooters or cars can be rented from Oasis Renta-a-Car & Bikes (% ) in Fry. FRY ΦΡΥ pop 270 Fry (free) is the island s capital and port. It s a pleasant, ramshackle kind of place, with little tourism, though it attracts many returned Kasiot Americans. The sizable village can be thoroughly explored in under an hour. Its narrow whitewashed streets are usually busy with locals in animated discussion. The village s focal point is the cramped yet picturesque old fishing harbour of Bouka. The annexe settlement of Emborio is located 1km east of Fry. KASOS To Sitia (80km); Agios Nikolaos (105km); Milos (250km); Piraeus (410km) Platy Lytra Kasos Strait S E A O F C R E T E Armathia Islet Marmara Pondikonisia Karavostasi Kourika Avlaki Andiperatos Moni Agiou Giorgiou Hadion Helatros Peronisi Ammounda Agios Konstandinos Ellinokamara Caves Cape Helatros Makra Islet Excursion Boat Agia Marina Orientation & Information Fry s large harbour complex abuts the port village right next to its main square, Iroön Kasou. Turn left from the harbour to get to Emborio. The airport is 1km west along the coast road from Fry (not 8km as signposted from near Bouka harbour). Fry s main street is Kritis. Fry Arvanitohori Kasos THE SHORTEST FLIGHT Forget inflight movies and meals when flying from Kasos to Karpathos or vice-versa. You barely have time to buckle your seatbelt before you re preparing for landing. At just five minutes, this Olympic Airlines Karpathos Kasos sector is the shortest of the airline s routes. As you lift off in a Canadianbuilt de Havilland DHC-8 (Dash 8) prop aircraft, you ll barely have time to view the rugged coastline of Kasos slip away to your right as you skim across the waves to Karpathos airport at the southern tip of that island. Cabin crew prepare for landing. You ve arrived. Agia Kyriaki (418m) Emborio Panagia Poli Mt Kapsalo (583m) Moni Agiou Mamma Cape Trousoulas 0 2 km 0 1 mile S E A To Karpathos (10km); Halki (100km); Rhodes (110km) M E D I T E R R A N E A N Cape Akti DODECANESE

276 542 KASOS Around Kasos Book accommodation online at KASTELLORIZO (MEGISTI) History 543 DODECANESE A stand-alone Commercial Bank ATM is next to the port entrance, while there s a Co- Operative Bank of the Dodecanese branch, with ATM, on Iroön Kasou. ACS Internet (% ; zwankie@otenet.gr; per hr 3; h10am-2pm & 5pm-12am) Offers wi-fi. Farmacy (% ) For all medicinal needs. Kasos Maritime & Travel Agency (% ; Iroön Kasou) For all travel tickets. Police (% ) On a narrow paved street running south from Kritis. Port police (% ) Behind the Agios Spyridon Church. Post office (% ;h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Diagonally opposite the Police. An informative website in Greek and English. Sights Fry s minuscule Archaeological Museum (% ; admission free; h9am-3pm) won t turn heads, but it is a commendable effort to display some of the island s treasure. It includes a thematic display on the sea wine amphorae and other objects pulled from ancient shipwrecks and lighting, a collection of ancient oil lamps. Finds from Polis indicate a human presence on the island since the 4th century BC. Downstairs a cultural display exhibits objects from the life of the last century on the island. Sleeping There is a growing number of accommodation options in Kasos. With the exception of the days on either side of 7 June (Holocaust Memorial Day) a room can normally be found quite easily. Fantasis (% ; Fry; d/t incl breakfast 40/45;a) These six airy and spruce rooms are only 600m from the port just outside Fry and make for a good quiet retreat. All have balconies plus a fridge and TV. oevita Village (% , ; evitavillage@mail.gr; Fry; s/d 40/50;a) Currently the best accommodation option on the island, these meticulously equipped studios are airy, spacious and tasteful. They sport every kitchen appliance imaginable, along with TV and DVD, and sleep up to three people. Anagennisis Hotel (% ; -island.gr; Iroön Kasou; s/d 40/50; a) The only official hotel on the island overlooks Fry s main square. The establishment looks rundown and a shade creaky, and the rooms are on the small side. Nonetheless it s central and handy for most of Fry s facilities. Galanou Viou Apartments (% ; Fry; studios 50;a) Opened mid-2007, these selfcatering studios are located on a hillside on the southern side of Fry. They comprise six tastefully equipped and furnished units with modern equipment. Eating & Drinking Fry is not over endowed in the eating stakes, but there are at least one or two decent places to dine. O Mylos (% ; Iroön Kasou; mains ) This cosy corner overlooking the west side of the port is the most reliable eatery. The food is wholesome, with fish, meat and casserole dishes on the menu, as well as the odd home-cooked special. Ask for roïkio an unusual, locally produced green salad. Apangio (% ; Bouka; mezedhes 3-5; h9am until late) Enjoying a very atmospheric Bouka harbour location, the Apangio is a classy ouzerie-cum-café, serving select mezedhes, drinks, snacks, coffee and late breakfasts. Taverna Emborios (% ; mains 6-8) A 20-minute walk out to Emborio will lead you to this pleasant, spacious eating option that overlooks the bay. The local goat in red-wine sauce melts on your palate, while you may be daring enough to try bousti stuffed goat or sheep intestines. Cafe Zantana (% ; Bouka) Kasiots congregate at this trendy café that overlooks Bouka harbour. Mihalis, the owner, makes excellent cappuccinos and cocktails and cooks up a fine breakfast omelette. Entertainment Perigiali Bar (% ; Bouka) This diminutive bar, between Bouka and Iroön Kasou, is Kasos only nightclub. The music is a mixture of Greek and non-greek sounds. AROUND KASOS Emborio is the satellite port of Fry used for small craft. Its beach is sandy and the water is clean and clear. It s the nearest place to Fry for a quick dip. The rather mediocre Ammounda, beyond the airport near the blue-domed church of Agios Konstandinos, is the next nearest to Fry. There are slightly better beaches further along this stretch of coast, one of them being the fine-pebble Andiperatos at the end of the road system. Neither Ammounda or Andiperatos has shade. The island s best beach is the isolated pebbled cove of Helatros, near Moni Agiou Georgiou Hadion, 11km southwest from Fry along a paved road. The beach has no facilities or shade and you ll need your own transport to reach it. Avlaki is another decent yet small unshaded beach here, reached along a track from the monastery. Agia Marina, 1km southwest of Fry, is a pretty village with a gleaming white-and-blue church. On 17 July the Festival of Agia Marina is celebrated here. Agia Marina is the starting point for the former rock shelter known as Ellinokamara, with its odd, stone-blocked entrance. Follow the Hrysoulas signpost at the southern end of Agia Marina. Proceed 500m to the end of the road then follow a path between stone walls for about seven minutes. Look for a badly signed and gated track upwards and to the left to reach the cave. From Agia Marina the road continues to verdant Arvanitohori, with abundant fig and pomegranate trees. Poli, 3km southeast of Fry, is the former capital, built on the ancient acropolis. Panagia, between Fry and Poli, now has fewer than 50 inhabitants; its once-grand sea captains and many ship owners mansions are either standing derelict or under repair. Monasteries The island has two monasteries: Moni Agiou Mamma and Moni Agiou Georgiou Hadion. The uninhabited Moni Agiou Mamma, on the south coast, is a 1½-hour walk from Fry or a 20-minute scooter ride. The road winds uphill through a dramatic, eroded landscape of rock-strewn mountains, crumbling terraces and soaring cliffs. Occasionally clouds and mist swirl over the road as it crests the ridge high above Poli and dips dramatically down to the monastery at the end of the paved road. A lively panigyri (annual religious feast) takes place here on 2 September yearly. Detour to the chapel of Agia Kyriaki (no obvious sign) for aerielike views over Fry and the basin villages. Similarly, there are no monks at Moni Agiou Georgiou Hadion, but there is a resident caretaker for most of the year. Free accommodation may be available for visitors, but don t bank on it. The panigyri at Agiou Georgiou Hadion takes place during the week after Easter. KASTELLORIZO (MEGISTI) ΚΑΣΤΕΛΛΟΡΙΖΟ (ΜΕΓΙΣΤΗ) pop 430 Leaping to unexpected fame thanks to the 1991 Italian film Mediterraneo, Kastellorizo (ka-stel-o-rizo) is truly the last outpost in the Greek islands. Omitted on many maps, this literal speck of Greek territory lies tucked beneath the underbelly of neighbour Turkey. It s nearest human inhabitants are in the Turkish port of Kaş, a mere 2.5km across the water and clearly visible. Kastellorizo is 130km east of Rhodes and is named after the Knights of St John castle, the ruins of which now overlook the port and main settlement. You ll probably come to Kastellorizo for one of three reasons: you re a third-generation Kastellorizian and it s your mission to see your grandparents homeland; you re Italian and you just have to see where the movie was made; or you are truly curious and determined: perhaps even lost. Either way you have arrived now go discover. History Kastellorizo has a tragic history. Once a thriving trade port serving Dorians, Romans, crusaders, Egyptians, Turks and Venetians, Kastellorizo came under Ottoman control in The island was permitted to preserve its language, religion and traditions, and its cargo fleet became the largest in the Dodecanese, allowing the islanders to achieve a high degree of culture and advanced levels of education. Kastellorizo lost all strategic and economic importance after the 1923 Greece Turkey population exchange. In 1928 it was ceded to the Italians, who severely oppressed the islanders. Many islanders chose to emigrate to Australia, where a disproportionate number still live. During WWII Kastellorizo suffered bombardment, and English commanders ordered the few remaining inhabitants to abandon the island. Most fled to Cyprus, Palestine and Egypt. When they returned they found their houses in ruins and re-emigrated. The island has never fully recovered from its population DODECANESE

277 544 KASTELLORIZO (MEGISTI) Kastellorizo Village Book accommodation online at KASTELLORIZO (MEGISTI) Kastellorizo Village 545 DODECANESE KASTELLORIZO 0 1 km miles (MEGISTI) 1 To Ro (6km); Rhodes (130km) 2 3 A Blue Cave... 1 B3 Knights of St John Castle & Museum... 2 B2 Moni Agiou Georgiou... 3 B3 Moni Agiou Stefanou... 4 B2 Paleokastro... 5 A2 5 Kastellorizo (Megisti) Kastellorizo Village Vigla (273m) Navlakas Bay T U R K E Y S E A To Kas (Turkey) (5km) To Strongyli (5km) 2 Mandraki Horafia Excursion Boat Excursion Boat M E D I T E R R A N E A N loss. In recent years returnees have been slowly restoring buildings and the island is now enjoying a tenuous but pleasant period of resurgence and resettlement. Getting There & Away AIR During the summer months of July and August there are daily flights to and from Rhodes ( 26, 20 minutes), dropping to three weekly at other times. Tickets are available from Papoutsis Travel (% , ; in Kastellorizo Village. You can either take the sole island taxi (% ) to get from the airport to the port ( 5), or the local community bus ( 1.50). The bus leaves the square by the port 1½ hours prior to each flight departure. CATAMARAN & FERRY Kastellorizo s links to the Dodecanese archipelago is limited to a ferry and catamaran service. Ferry links are subject to seasonal changes. ANES (% ; runs between Kastellorizo and Rhodes ( 23.50, 7½ hours) and beyond twice weekly. Papoutsis 1 3 B 4 Travel (% , ; in Kastellorizo Village sells tickets. The Dodekanisos Express catamaran runs once a week to/from Rhodes ( 33, 2½ hours), usually on Monday or Friday, but the scheduled day changes yearly. Contact Dodekanisos Seaways (Map p522 ; % ; Afstralias 3) in Rhodes for the current schedules. Getting Around EXCURSION BOAT Excursion boats go to the islets of Ro, Strongyli and the spectacular Blue Cave (Parasta), famous for its brilliant blue water, produced by refracted sunlight. Visitors are transferred from a larger caïque to a small motorised dingy in order to enter the very low cave entrance claustrophobics be warned. Bring your bathing gear as the boatman usually allows visitors a quick dip in the cave itself. Captained by Georgos Karagiannis (% ), the Varvara and the Agios Georgios are the two most popular boats. The trip to the cave costs 15, and the longer trip to Ro, Strongyli and around Kastellorizo costs 20. All leave at around 9am daily and return by 1pm. Excursion Boat to Turkey Islanders go on frequent shopping trips to Kaş in Turkey, and day trips ( 20) are also offered to tourists. Passports are required by the police 24 hours beforehand. Look for the signs along the middle waterfront. The status of Kastellorizo as a legal entry port to/from Greece has been the subject of heated debate in recent years. At the time of writing it looked as though the impasse had been resolved and that the island would become an official exit and entry port. Check with the Kastellorizo police to be on the safe side. Travellers from Turkey may have to take pot luck. KASTELLORIZO VILLAGE pop 275 Besides Mandraki, its satellite neighbourhood over the hill and to the east, Kastellorizo Village is the only settlement on the island. Built around a U-shaped bay, the village s waterfront is skirted by imposing, sprucedup, three-storey mansions with wooden balconies and red-tiled roofs. It is undoubtedly pretty nowadays, but the alluring façade of today s waterfront contrasts starkly with backstreets of abandoned houses overgrown with ivy, crumbling stairways and winding stony pathways. Newer, brightly painted houses are emerging like gaudy mushrooms from among the ruins, while some of the older, ruined houses are slowly being restored to their former glory. Orientation & Information The quay is at the southern side of the bay. The central square, Ethelondon Kastellorizou, abuts the waterfront almost halfway round the bay, next to the yachting jetty. The settlements of Horafia and Mandraki are reached by ascending the wide steps at the east side of the bay. There are a couple of cardphones, while mobile-phone users can pick up both Greek and Turkish networks. There is no wi-fi access on the island. Health Centre (% ) For basic heath needs. National Bank of Greece (% ) ATM equipped. Papoutsis Travel (% ; For air and sea tickets. Police station (% ) On the bay s western side. Port police (% ) At eastern tip of the bay. Post office (% ) Next to the police station. Radio Café (% ; per hr 3) For internet access. Sights The Knights of St John Castle stands above the quay. A rickety metal staircase leads to the top from where there are splendid views of Turkey. Lower down the castle grounds, a well-displayed collection is held at the museum (% ; admission free; h7am-2pm Tue-Sun). Beyond the museum, steps lead down to a coastal pathway, from where more steps go up the cliff to a Lycian tomb with a Doric façade, which dates back as far as the 4th century BC. There are several along the Anatolian coast in Turkey, but this is the only known one in Greece. Moni Agiou Georgiou is the largest of the monasteries that dot the island. Within its church is the subterranean Chapel of Agios Haralambos, reached by steep stone steps. Greek children were given religious instruction here during Turkish times. The church is kept locked; ask around the waterfront for the whereabouts of the caretaker. To reach the monastery, ascend the conspicuous zigzagging white stone steps behind the village and at the top follow the prominent path. Moni Agiou Stefanou, on the north coast, is the setting for one of the island s most important celebrations, the feast of Agios Stefanos on 1 August. The path to the little white monastery begins behind the post office. From the monastery, a path leads to a bay where you can swim. Paleokastro was the island s ancient capital. Within the old city s Hellenistic walls are an ancient tower, a water cistern and three churches. Concrete steps, just beyond a soldier s sentry box on the airport road, mask the beginning of the pretty steep path to Paleokastro. Sleeping There is generally sufficient accommodation in Kastellorizo Village for most visitors, but it tends to be a little on the pricey side for the quality it offers. Book ahead in high season to be sure of a berth. Villa Kaserma (% ; fax ; d/tr 35/43; a) Set back high on the western side of the harbour, this red-and-white coloured pension has oldish, fridge-equipped rooms with perhaps the best views of Kastellorizo harbour. Pension Asimina (% ; s/d 40/50; a) Equipped with optional ceiling fans as well as fridge and TV, most of these very tidy double and triple rooms have private bathrooms. It s behind the fish market and to the right. Poseidon (% ; s/d 50/60) Comprising two yellow-, white- and blue-painted restored houses, the Poseidon offers large, well-furnished rooms, some with wrought-iron balconies. You ll find the establishment on the west side of the harbour, one block back from the waterfront. Pension I Orea Palameria (% ; fax ; d/tr 45/65) This converted building on the small square at the northwest corner of the waterfront has spotless rooms with kitchen and dining areas. Inquire about them at To Mikro Parisi ( p546 ). Mediterraneo (% ; s & d 60-80) At the far western tip of the harbour, these smallish but otherwise comfortable rooms offer a quiet accommodation choice, yet are very convenient for a quick harbour dip. There s a more expensive suite available. DODECANESE

278 546 SYMI History SYMI History 547 DODECANESE okastellorizo Hotel Apartments (% ; s/d 74/100; as) The best accommodation is on the west side of the harbour. All of these spacious, airy rooms have satellite TV, phone and fridge. The pint-sized pool is mainly for sitting in, but you can jump into the harbour s beckoning quartz-blue waters from directly in front of the hotel. Eating Eating in Kastellorizo is fun as a number of restaurants have tables that perch precariously over the harbour edge. One false move and you are in for a ducking. Food offerings are predictable, but generally of good and nonplasticised tourist quality. oradio Café (% ; breakfast & snacks 2-5) Other than internet access, this newish Dutch-Greek run café dishes up filling and moderately priced breakfasts including the best coffee on the island as well as light snacks, and pizzas and foccacias in the evening. It s also a hot spot to watch the sun sink low with a cooling white-wine spritzer in hand. Akrothalassi (% ; mains 3-5) Popular with visiting Greeks, this relaxed taverna on the southwest side of the harbour has the advantage of midday shade under grape vines. It also does exceptionally good mayirefta (readycooked meals), such as spring veal, with capsicum and onion served with basmati rice. Kaz Bar (% ; mezedhes 3-6; h15 Jun-30 Sep) For an alternative take on mezedhes, drop by owner Colin Pavlidis bar-cum-bistro on the middle waterfront. Pizza, chicken wings and spring rolls, as well as original salads, feature on the menu and there s a decent selection of Greek wines. Sydney Restaurant (% ; mains ) Hearty home-cooked dishes and grilled fish feature at Sydney, a little further around from To Mikro Parisi. It s a popular low-key eatery, with its tables teetering precipitously on the edge of the harbour. To Mikro Parisi (% ; mains 5-7) Going strong since 1974, To Mikro Parisi still serves generous helpings of grilled fish and meat. Fish soup is the house speciality, but the rich stifadho (sweet stew cooked with tomato) is equally satisfying. Entertainment There are several easy-going cafés on the waterfront. Kaz Bar (% ; mezedhes 3-6; h15 Jun-30 Sep), when open, is a good place to kick off. Next door, Meltemi has tempting waterside chairs and cold beers, while the Eolis on the east side of the harbour is a popular late-night hangout that commonly kicks on into the small hours. SYMI ΣΥΜΗ pop 2606 You can hardly miss Symi (see-me). It s one of the most popular day-trip destinations from Rhodes. It s also a popular holiday destination in its own right. Like other islands in the southern Dodecanese, it s rocky, mostly dry, postcard pretty, and a popular port of call for yachties and other sea-struck travellers. The island s past was once a different call. Shipbuilding, sponge diving and commerce were the island s mainstay economies; now it s tourism and more tourism. You could perhaps be forgiven for believing that the island has been colonised by northern Europeans; so prevalent is their presence there is even a local English-language newspaper and the large crowds of day-trippers add to the image. It has a picturesque harbour with restored and tiered sea captains houses. Most visitors congregate here, but there is also a surprisingly green interior, a sprinkling of scattered beaches and an enormous monastery that is one of the few religious sites that warrants its own ferry connection. History Symi has a long tradition of both sponge diving and shipbuilding. During Ottoman times it was granted the right to fish for sponges in Turkish waters. In return, Symi supplied the sultan with first-class boat builders and top-quality sponges scooped straight off the ocean floor. These factors, and a lucrative shipbuilding industry, brought prosperity to the island. Gracious mansions were built and culture and education flourished. By the beginning of the 20th century the population was 22,500 and the island was launching some 500 ships a year. But the Italian occupation, the introduction of the steamship and Kalymnos rise as the Aegean s principal sponge producer put an end to Symi s prosperity. The treaty surrendering the Dodecanese islands to the Allies was signed in Symi s Hotel (now Pension) Catherinettes ( p548 ) on 8 May Getting There & Away EXCURSION BOAT There are daily excursion boats between Symi and Rhodes. The Symi-based Symi I and Symi II, operated by ANES (% ; are the cheapest and usually go via Panormitis; tickets (return 12) can be bought on board. Symi Tours (% ; fax ) has excursion trips from Gialos to Datça in Turkey (including Turkish port taxes 35). FERRY, CATAMARAN & HYDROFOIL Symi has only two long-haul ferries a week heading north to other Dodecanese islands and Piraeus ( 44, 15 to 17 hours). ANES (% ; transports cars and people between Symi and Rhodes (one way 7, one SYMI To Kos (60km); Patmos (125km); Piraeus (380km) To Tilos (30km) Megalonisi To Kos (60km); Kalymnos (75km); Patmos (125km) Cape Kefalaki Cape Koupi Ghi Excursion Boat Ladi Bay A E G E A N S E A Pidima Excursion Boat To Datça (Turkey) (12km) Oxia Cape Toli Agios Emilianos Cape Agios Nikolaos Kefalis Platy Gulf of Agios Vasilios Kefalos Bay Hondros Nimborios Moni Agiou Georgiou Moni Agiou Fanouriou 471m hour and 10 minutes), while there is a twiceweekly link with Kastellorizo ( 23.50, 7½ hours). The Dodekanisos Express and Dodekanisos Pride catamarans service the island at least four times weekly with connections to Rhodes ( 14, 50 minutes) and islands further north. One service calls in at Panormitis on the south side of the island. The ANES-owned Aigli hydrofoil also connects Symi with Rhodes ( 14, one hour). Getting Around BUS & TAXI The bus stop and taxi rank are on the south side of the harbour in Gialos. The grey minibus (% ) makes frequent runs between Nimborios Gulf Kokkinohoma Bay Nos Harani Gialos Symi Panormitis Bay Cape Potos Diapori Straits Horio Symi Lopidia Bay Pedi 528m Panormitis Moni Taxiarhou Mihail Panormiti Cape Parathyras Nimos Islet 249m Cape Makria Agios Nikolaos 594m 0 5 km 0 3 miles Agia Marina Pedi Bay Nanou Bay Cape Koutsoumpos Agios Georgios Bay Marathounda Bay Vathygialos Bay Cape Faneromeni Faneromeni Bay Sesklion Islet Strongylos Excursion Boat To Rhodes (20km) To Rhodes (20km) DODECANESE

279 548 SYMI Gialos Book accommodation online at SYMI Around Symi 549 DODECANESE Gialos and Pedi beach (via Horio). The flat fare is 1. Another minibus runs twice daily between Gialos and Panormitis. Taxis depart from a rank 100m west of the bus stop. EXCURSION BOAT Several excursion boats do trips to Moni Taxiarhou Mihail Panormiti and Sesklion Islet, where there s a shady beach. Check the boards for the best-value tickets. There are also boats to Agios Emilianos beach, on the far west side of Symi. WATER TAXI The small boats (% ) Konstantinos and Irini do trips ( 10 to 15) to many of the island s beaches, leaving at 10.15am and 11.15am respectively. GIALOS ΓΙΑΛΟΣ pop 2200 Gialos, Symi s port, is by all accounts a visual treat. Neoclassical mansions in a harmonious medley of colours are heaped up the hills flanking its harbour. Behind their strikingly beautiful façades, however, many of the buildings are derelict. It is a slightly claustrophobic place and can get unbearably hot in summer. Orientation & Information The town is divided into two parts: Gialos, the harbour, and Horio above it, crowned by the kastro (castle). Arriving ferries, hydrofoils and catamarans dock just to the left of the quay s clock tower; excursion boats dock a little further along. The centre of activity in Gialos is the promenade at the centre of the harbour. Kali Strata, a broad stairway, leads from here to hill-top Horio. There is no official tourist office in Symi Town. The Symi Visitor is a free English-and- Greek-language newspaper distributed by portside newspaper vendors and restaurants. Kalodoukas Holidays (% ; doukas.gr) At the beginning of Kali Strata; rents houses and organises excursions. Laundry (% ) On the middle waterfront. Police (% ) By the ferry quay. Port police (% ) By the ferry quay. Post office (% ) By the ferry quay. Roloï bar (% ; per hr 4; h9am-3am) For internet access; a block back from the waterfront. Symi Tours (% ; fax ) Does excursion trips, including to Datça in Turkey. Symi Visitor Office (% ) A useful source of island information and gossip. Sights Horio consists of narrow, labyrinthine streets crossed by crumbling archways. As you approach the Knights of St John Kastro dominating Horio, the once-grand 19th-century neoclassical mansions give way to the modest stone dwellings of the 18th century. The castle incorporates blocks from the ancient acropolis, and the Church of Megali Panagia is within its walls. On the way to the kastro, Hellenistic, Byzantine and Roman exhibits, as well as some folkloric material, are kept in the Archaeological and Folklore Museum (admission 1.50; h10am-2pm Tue- Sun) in the Lieni suburb of Horio. In the port of Gialos the Naval Museum (admission 2; h10am-2pm Tue-Sun) has some noteworthy wooden models of ships and other naval memorabilia. Activities Symi Tours (% ; fax ) has multilingual guides who lead guided walks around the island. The publication Walks in Symi by Lance Chiltern list 20 walks on the island for novices and pros alike. Call into the Symi Visitor Office (% ) to purchase a copy. Sleeping Most accommodation is in studios or a few private rooms. There are a couple of good hotels as well. Pension Catherinettes (% ; marinaepe@rho.forthnet.gr; Gialos; d 58;ai) The historic Catherinettes (see History, p546 ) is on the north side of the harbour. The pink-stuccoed pension has wrought-iron balconies and some of the rooms have magnificently painted high ceilings. Hotel Fiona (% ; fiona.htm; Horio; s/d 55/60) This hotel in Horio has lovely rooms, with wood-panelled ceilings and great views, and is a shade cooler than accommodation in Gialos as it catches welcome breezes. To reach it, turn left at the top of the stairs and walk for 50m. Hotel Nireus (% ; Mouragio; s/d 47/80; a) One of the two regular hotels in Gialos, the prominently sited Nireus, by the clock tower, has traditional rooms and suites with fridge, TV and phone. Opera House Hotel (% ; operasym@otenet.gr; Gialos; studios ; a) Named after Australia s Sydney Opera House, these spacious fully self-contained studios in a peaceful garden are well signposted 150m back from the harbour. Eating There are plenty of eating options. Many are mediocre, while a handful excel. GIALOS Taverna Neraïda (% ; mains 4-5) Serving unpretentious and solid Greek dishes, Neraïda is an excellent, low-priced option, a block back from the waterfront and opposite the carpark. Fish souvlaki features on the menu, as does a range of vegetarian dishes. Walk into the kitchen and select from the dishes on display. Tholos (% ; mains 5-9) Out on the headland just before Nos beach, this little low-key taverna is a good choice to escape the crowds in Gialos and dine on goodquality fare, including grills, mezedhes and the ubiquitous fish dishes. Cabbage rolls with fava lentil purée or with mushrooms and dill are two good vegetarian options. Estiatorio Mythos (% ; mezedhes 4-10) Voted best restaurant in Greece by one of the UK dailies, this neat little harbour-side taverna serves up imaginative food. At lunch it s mainly pasta dishes, while mezedhes feature in the evening. For palate pleasing, consider calamari stuffed with pesto, or fish fillet parcels in a saffron cream sauce. omylopetra (% ; mains 7-15;hdinner) Considered locally to be one of the better restaurants on Symi, Mylopetra takes care with its ingredients and serves up Mediterranean-Greek creations, including home-made bread and pasta dishes. The menu changes yearly, but among the better creations have been lamb in a hollandaise sauce, or skate with mushrooms in a light peanut sauce. HORIO Restaurant Syllogos (% ; mains 5-7) Similar in style to Giorgos, Syllogos offers imaginative fare such as chicken with prunes, pork with leek, fish with rosemary and tomato, plus vegetarian options like artichokes in egg and lemon sauce, or spanakopita (spinach pie). Filos (% ; mains 6-9) Decked out in terracotta and Grecian urns, this place is predisposed to relaxed dining with its Minoan-style mien. The menu is stock standard Greek but its kleftiko (oven-baked lamb) has been known to please diners. It s at the top of Kali Strata. Giorgos (% ; mains 6-9) There is an always-changing and enticing menu of oven-cooked dishes here, with such mouthwatering offerings as chicken stuffed with rice, herbs and pine nuts, lamb in vine leaves, or stuffed onions. Entertainment There are several lively bars in the streets behind the south side of the harbour. Vapori Bar (% ) Drop by here during the day to read the free papers and then in the evenings for schmoozing, drinks and cruising. Roloï Bar (% ) A busy, happening little watering hole one block inland from the south side of the port, Roloï is open most of the day and a large part of the night. Jean and Tonic Bar (% ; h9pm-late) In Horio, Barry White and Tina Turner still reign in this convivial home away from expat home, the self-styled late place. Proprietor Jean welcomes Aston Villa fans. And you can have a soothing G&T or two, too. okali Strata Bar (% ; hall day) In Horio at the top of the Kali Strata is the perfect antidote to the maddening crowds of Gialos. Escape for a sunset cocktail with a Latin twist and some classy, sassy chill music. AROUND SYMI Pedi is a little fishing village and busy miniholiday resort in a fertile valley 2km downhill from Horio. It has some sandy stretches on its narrow beach and there are rooms and studios to rent, as well as hotels and tavernas. Walking tracks down both sides of the bay lead to Agia Marina beach on the north side and Agios Nikolaos beach on the south side. Both are sandy, gently shelving beaches, suitable for children. Nos is the closest beach to Gialos. It s a 500m walk north of the campanile at Panormitis Bay. There is a taverna, bar and sun beds (per person 4). Nimborios is a long, pebbled beach 3km west of Gialos. It has some natural shade, as well as sun beds and umbrellas. You can walk there from Gialos along a scenic path take the road by the east side of the central square and continue straight ahead; the way is fairly obvious, just bear left after the church and follow the stone trail. Over this way you can stay at Niriides Apartments (% ; apt 60-80) in one of eight capacious units on the hillside, in a very quiet location. DODECANESE

280 550 TILOS History TILOS Livadia 551 DODECANESE Water taxis are the only convenient way to get to Agios Georgios Bay and the more developed beach at Nanou Bay, which has sun beds, umbrellas and a taverna. The more remote Marathounda Bay beach can be reached by road, while Agios Emilianos beach, on the far west side of Symi, is best reached by excursion boat. Moni Taxiarhou Mihail Panormiti Μονή Ταξιάρχου Μιχαήλ Πανορμίτη An often winding but good sealed road leads you across the island, through scented pine forests, before dipping in spectacular zigzag fashion to the expansive but protected Panormitis Bay. This is the site of Symi s principal attraction the large Moni Taxiarhou Mihail Panormiti (Monastery of Archangel Michael of Panormitis; hdawn-sunset; admission free). The large monastery complex, with its ornate Italianate campanile, occupies most of the foreshore of the bay. A monastery was first built here in the 5th or 6th century, but the present building dates from the 18th century. The principal church contains an intricately carved wooden iconostasis, frescoes, and an icon of St Michael that supposedly appeared miraculously where the monastery now stands. St Michael is the patron saint of Symi, and protector of sailors. The monastery is also a magnet for hordes of day-trippers who commonly arrive at around 10.30am on excursion boats; it s a good idea to visit early or after they have left. The monastery complex comprises a Byzantine museum and folkloric museum (admission for both 1.50), a bakery with excellent bread and apple pies, and a basic restaurant-café to the north side. Accommodation is available at the fairly basic guest house (% ; s/d 20/32), where bookings in July and August are mandatory. Some ferries call in to the monastery and there is a minibus from Gialos. TILOS ΤΗΛΟΣ pop 533 Basking in relative obscurity and often quietly ignored by the major transport companies, Tilos (tee-loss) is a small island that tends to be overshadowed by its more illustrious neighbours. Known in earlier years for its agricultural prowess rather than for its maritime eminence, Tilos today confounds common commercial logic. It can be messy getting to the island, yet the effort is worth the reward. Lone among the Dodecanese, the island has embraced green tourism with a vengeance. Walkers love the place, as will bird-watchers and conservationists once an ambitious ecological programme is fully in place. The island is blessed with just the right balance of hills, mountains, valleys, vistas, meadows and, of course, beaches to make a stay a gratifying experience. It s small enough to get around in a day, and the sleeping and eating options are excellent and getting better. Lost yachties take anchor here, as do travellers who have lost their compass; and that s not including a community of world-weary Brits who ve swapped motorways for sanity. It s that kind of place. History Mastodon bones midget elephants that became extinct around 4600 BC were found in a cave on the island in The Harkadio cave (closed indefinitely) is signposted from the Livadia Megalo Horio road and is brilliantly illuminated at night. Erinna, one of the least known of ancient Greece s female poets, lived on Tilos in the 4th century BC. Elephants and poetry aside, Tilos history shares the same catalogue of invasions and occupations as the rest of the archipelago. Getting There & Away CATAMARAN The Tilos-owned Sea Star (% ; fax ) connects Tilos with Rhodes ( 18.50). The timetable fluctuates wildly from year to year, but there is usually at least one connection a day with Rhodes. Departures from Rhodes are usually around 9am. EXCURSION BOAT There are a number of excursions advertised around Livadia. The Duo Adelfia (% ) is a small caïque offering an all-inclusive beach barbecue excursion for 29 (food and wine included); another option is a multibeach island tour for a similar price. Look for posters around Livadia for details. FERRY Tilos is erratically served by mainline ferries. Blue Star Ferries provides one service a week to/from Piraeus ( 42, 15 hours) and Rhodes ( 12, 3½ hours), while ANES (% ; ferries of Symi provides four connections TILOS Gaïdouronisi Cape Pounda Plaka Moni Agiou Panteleimona A E G E A N S E A Moni Kamariani Mt Profitis Ilias (651m) Knight's Castle Agios Antonios Tilos Agios Petros Eristos Skafi Megalo Horio Cape Orfos Harkadio Cave Mikro Horio 415m a week north and south, including an onward connection to Kastellorizo. There are also services to Nisyros ( 6.50, 1¼ hours) and Kos ( 19, three hours). Tickets are sold at Stefanakis Travel (% ; tilos11@otenet.gr) in Livadia. Getting Around Tilos public transport consists of a bus that ploughs up and down the island s main road on a fairly regular basis. The timetable is posted at the bus stop in Livadia. The fares are 1 to Megalo Horio and 1.20 to Eristos. On Sunday there is a special excursion bus to Moni Agiou Panteleimona ( 4 return), which leaves Livadia at 11am and allows one hour at the monastery. Tilos currently has only two taxis Nikos (% ); Anna (% ). To Nisyros (25km); Kos (40km); Patmos (125km); Piraeus (380km) Stavros Potami Gorge Livadia Lethra Tholos Gaïdaros Island Agios Stefanos Harbour Trahilos Church of Agios Ioannis Mt Agios Nikolaos (367m) Agios Sergios Despoti Nero Yera 0 2 km 0 1 mile Cape Rematiko To Rhodes (60km) LIVADIA ΛΙΒΑΔΕΙΑ pop 470 Livadia is the main village and port, though not the principal village (capital): that honour belongs to Megalo Horio, situated 8km northwest of the port. Livadia is a sleepy, pleasant enough place, though it can get hot. In the village you will find most services and shops, as well as most of the island s accommodation. Orientation & Information All arrivals are at Livadia. The small port is 300m southeast of the village centre. Tilos has no official tourist bureau. The Bank of the Dodecanese has a branch and an ATM in Livadia. The post office is on the central square. Kosmos (% ; per hr 5; h9.30am-1pm & pm) This gift shop has internet access. Its website is a useful source of information on Tilos. There is also a book exchange and new books for sale. Police (% ) In the white Italianate building at the quay. Port police (% ) On the harbour. Sea Star (% ; sea-star@otenet.gr) Sells tickets for the Sea Star catamaran. Stefanakis Travel (% ; stefanakis@rho.forthnet.gr) Between the port and Livadia village; sells ferry tickets. Tilos Park Association (% ; An umbrella group promoting ecological conservation on Tilos (see boxed text, p554 ). Tilos Travel (% ; At the port; has helpful staff. Credit card withdrawals and DODECANESE

281 552 TILOS Livadia Book accommodation online at TILOS Megalo Horio 553 DODECANESE ROB OGDEN & ANNIE BROWN MOTORWAY MIGRANTS It s not everyone that ups and aways from their home, especially from the comfort zone of the UK, yet a growing number of Brits are doing just that. They re leaving the grey and drizzle of Blighty for a better life in the sun. Ex-Mancunians Rob and Annie smiled when asked why they emigrated to Greece. It was the motorways, said Rob, we were sick and tired racing up and down, wasting time doing the same old thing day in, day out. We knew there had to be something better. We d much prefer driving to work with the view of Eristos Bay than have the worry of traffic lights and traffic that we had in England. Arriving in April 2007 to start a new life in Greece, Rob and Annie settled for Tilos as their home. When questioned why this anonymous island in the backblocks of the Dodecanese group, Annie explained, we always wanted to live out here, we wanted a change of lifestyle and some fresh air. Rob rejoined enthusiastically, We had good jobs, but it was just getting too hectic. We decided we wanted a different way of life. When asked what practical difficulties they had in setting up home on Tilos, Annie and Rob sighed wistfully and admitted, You ve got to get used to the idea that you have to take a boat ride to Rhodes if you want to get something essential done, like visit the dentist or shop for something specific. As long as you are patient and organise yourself, it will all work out, they confidently advised. It s hard to imagine life in Greece without speaking Greek. How did this enterprising yet hitherto monolingual couple manage with the linguistic intricacies of modern Greek? Well, I studied Greek back home for six years, countered Annie, we have books and tapes and other material and we study a lot. I even did my GCSE in Greek! So what about the viability of living on a small rocky island? Ask us in two years! laughed Rob, we might not get materially rich here and as long as we can pay the bills we ll be all right. But culturally and spiritually we ll do just fine. Those are our riches. You have to take your hat off to this bold couple. It s not everyone that can do it. But if it s a choice between motorways and meadows and life in the sun, there s hardly a contest. currency exchange are available, as well as car, motorbike and mountain-bike rental. Sights & Activities WALKS There are a number of popular walks that can easily be made from Livadia. The most popular is to Lethra, an undeveloped pebble and sand cove with limited shade, 3km north of Livadia. The trail starts at the far north side of the port and is fairly easy. Return via the very picturesque, oleander-strewn and goat-inhabited Potami Gorge, which will bring you to the main island highway. A second walk is a longer return track to the small abandoned settlement of Yera and its accompanying beach at Despoti Nero. From Livadia follow the road south, around Agios Stefanos Bay and past the Church of Agios Ioannis, on the east side of the bay, and keep walking. Allow half a day for this hike. Iain and Lyn Fulton of Tilos Trails (% ; fulton@otenet.gr) are licensed guides and run a number of walks (per person 20) around the island, graded from easy to challenging. Sleeping Accommodation on the island is generally of a high standard, though it may get block booked by low-key foreign tour operators. Kosmos Studios (% ; mos.com; d 45) These four cosy, self-catering units with private patios and fan are at the western end of the bay. A free supermarket delivery service with Giannis and Maria s Supermarket is available. Call into Kosmos to find the owners, Paul and Helen. Irini Hotel (% ; s/d incl breakfast 45/60; a) Catering mainly to packagetour travellers, the neat Irini also welcomes independents. The hotel is set back a little from the waterfront, in a citrus garden, and the rooms are very well appointed. oolympus Apartments (% ; d/t 50/60;a) Recently renovated, these sparkling, stylishly designed and furnished apartments make for a very comfortable and pleasing stay. They have modern kitchenettes and screened windows. Eleni Hotel (% ; hoteltilos.gr; s/d incl breakfast 50/60) This airy blueand white-painted hotel, 400m south along the beach road, has beautiful, tastefully equipped double rooms with refrigerator and telephone. Livadia Apartments (% ; apt 70-85; ai) Right on the seafront on the bay side of Livadia these 16 apartments spread over their blue- and white-painted blocks are large and spacious and fully equipped for self-catering. Eating Restaurant Irina (% ; mains 4-5) With its relaxing waterside location, Irina does great home-made food, including excellent mousakas and papoutsaki (stuffed baby eggplant), and a rich, beef stifadho. Taverna Blue Sky (% ; mezedhes ) Blue Sky, on the harbour, is good for grilled fish and vegetarian mezedhes. Run by Italians, their culinary heritage is reflected in the food, with pasta featuring prominently on the menu. Sofia s Taverna (% ; mains 3-6) This family-run taverna, 100m along the beach road, serves wholesome, home-cooked food, as well as a good selection of entrées. Look for the daily oven-cooked specials. Armenon (% ; mains ) For food with a somewhat international twist head for this warm, woody taverna with patterned slate floors and blue-painted rafters. Among the more original dishes are lamb and mixed vegetables in filo pastry, or turkey in orange sauce with almonds. ocroma Cafe Bar (% ; snacks ) This café-bar is a popular breakfast, brunch and evening hang-out, serving excellent herb tea and vegetarian snacks such as baked potato and chilli, which go down satisfyingly well with an iced Irish Magners cider. Wi-fi is available. Entertainment Mikro Horio Music Bar (hmidnight-5am Jul & Aug) Determined clubbers head for the abandoned village of Mikro Horio, 3km from Livadia, where this place belts out music most of the night. A minibus ferries revellers to and from the port. There are a few summer bars on Livadia s waterfront, such as Ino and Bozi. MEGALO HORIO ΜΕΓΑΛΟ ΧΩΡΙΟ pop 50 Megalo Horio, the island s capital, is a serene whitewashed village. Its alleyways are fun to explore, and the village makes a great alternative base if you are looking for a taste of rural life. There are places to sleep and at least one reliable restaurant to keep visitors suitably fed. From here you can visit the Knight s Castle, a taxing 40-minute upwards walk along a track starting at the north end of the village. Along the way you will pass the ancient settlement of Tilos, which in its time stood precariously on rocky ledges overlooking Megalo Horio. The remains of stone houses can be clearly seen here. The little museum (admission free; h8.30am- 2.30pm) on the main street houses mastodon bones from Harkadio Cave. It s locked, but if you ask at the town hall on the 1st floor someone will show you around. When it comes to longer-term accommodation you might consider renting a secluded private villa with a swimming pool. Eden Villas (% , ; villa per week 1240;is) accommodates up to eight people and is on the right (east) side of Megalo Horio. It s an ideal place to chill out with books and a wi-fi computer for a week or so. See Rob or Annie at Croma café for details. In Megalo Horio itself are the cosy studios of Miliou Rooms & Apartments (% ; d 40), sequestered in a tree-shaded garden that boasts a couple of banana palms. To Kastro (% ; mains ), on the village s south side overlooking the Eristos plain below, is the best place to eat. The fare features charcoal-grilled meats, including organic goat and locally raised pork, as well as fresh fish and a range of daily oven-cooked specials. AROUND MEGALO HORIO Just before Megalo Horio, a turn-off to the left leads 2.5km to the pleasant, tamariskshaded Eristos, a mixture of gritty sand and shingle. A signposted turn-off to the right from the junction leads to the quiet settlement of Agios Antonios, where the small Elpida Restaurant is the only reliable source of food and drink. The undeveloped Plaka, 3km further west, is backed by shady trees and is clean and uncluttered. The 18th-century Moni Agiou Panteleimona is 5km beyond here, along a scenic road. It is DODECANESE

282 554 NISYROS Getting There & Away NISYROS Mandraki 555 DODECANESE THE TILOS PARK There s a royal battle a-raging on Tilos between relatively newcomer conservationists and longtime local agriculturalists over a swath of land that is home to a few endangered birds. At stake is the welfare of the Eleonara s Falcon (Falco eleonarae), the Mediterranean Shag (Phalacrocorax aristotelis desmarestii) and the Bonelli s Eagle (hheraaetus fasciatus), all of which make Tilos their nesting home. At stake also is any animal that moves and could be considered fair game by Tilos would-be hunters and less conservation-minded residents. Agriculturalists interested in making a fast euro or two want to open up their land to development, which would in turn threaten the equilibrium of the fauna and flora of the island. In response, the EU-sponsored Tilos Park Association has declared a Special Protected Area on the island that essentially stymies unfettered expansion and development. Tempers have been running hot and muttered threats have been made, so for now there is a resentful stand-off. The admirable aims of the association are to be lauded and the frustrations of the locals are understandable, but the current winners are the animals and plants of Tilos that are enjoying a welcome breather in a cultural environment that has not always been so well disposed to conservation. uninhabited but well maintained, with fine frescoes. The island s minibus driver takes groups of visitors here on Sunday. A wellattended and lively three-day annual festival takes place at the monastery, beginning on 25 July. You can camp unofficially on Eristos, but facilities are basic to nonexistent. The best place to stay is at the expansive plantfestooned grounds and studios of Eristos Hotel (%/fax ; d 32;s) abutting the northern end of the beach. Here you ll find excellent, airy studios for up to four people with fridge and kitchenette. There is also an on-site restaurant and bar. An alternative eating option is Tropicana Taverna (% ; mains ) on the Eristos road, where the owner serves locally produced meat and vegetables and scrumptious revithokeftedes (chickpea rissoles). NISYROS ΝΙΣΥΡΟΣ pop 948 There are not many islands in the Aegean that sport their own dormant volcano. Nisyros (ni-see-ross) has one, though it s less active now than it was in its eruptive past. This almost round island of pumice, rock and lush vegetation is a bit of an anomaly because of its inherited geology. Other than that it s a thoroughly pleasant destination for individuals who want a quiet vacation on an island that still looks and feels totally Greek. The beaches are not so hot that s a fact but you can visit the hissing floor of the volcano crater, which from high above on the rim looks like a nuclear bomb blast site. Hiking is good, too, with a number of route options usually involving the volcano rim and crater. Mandraki, the island s main port, is pretty and pleasing and lends to lingering sunset ouzos on ice. Getting There & Away Nisyros is linked by regular ferries to Rhodes ( 12, three to five hours), Kos ( 9, 1¾ hours) and Piraeus ( 44, 17 hours). The Dodekanisos Pride catamaran calls in on Saturday and Sunday with connections to Kalymnos ( 34, 1½ hours) and Rhodes ( 43, 2¼ hours). The small local ferry Agios Konstantinos links Mandraki with Kardamena on Kos ( 7, two hours, 7am daily), while the larger Panagia Spyliani link Nisyros with Kos Town ( 10, daily). Getting Around BUS Bus companies run up to 10 excursion buses daily between 9.30am and 3pm to the volcano ( 7.50 return), with around 40 minutes allowed to visit the volcano. These are in addition to the three daily buses that travel to Nikea ( 2) via Pali. The bus stop is located at the port. CAR & MOTORCYCLE There are three motocycle-rental outlets on Mandraki s main street. Manos Rentals (% ) right on the quay is the most handy. Budget for 20 to 40 a day for a car. NISYROS To Kos (15km) A E G E A N S E A Excursion Boat To Giali (5km); Kos (15km); Kalymnos (27km); Piraeus (360km) Hohlaki Moni Panagias Spilianis Mandraki Paleokastro Loutra Mt Karariatis (540m) Nisyros Mt Profitis Ilias (698m) Moni Evangelistrias Mt Trapezina (545m) Moni Agiou Stavrou Mt Boriatiko (452m) Polyvotis EXCURSION BOAT In July and August there are excursion boats (return 10) to the pumice-stone islet of Giali, where there is a relaxing sandy beach. TA X I There are two taxis on Nisyros: Babis Taxi (% ) and Irene s Taxi (% ). A taxi from Mandraki to the volcano costs 20 return, to Nikea 11 and to Pali 5. MANDRAKI ΜΑΝΔΡΑΚΙ pop 661 Mandraki is the sleepy port and main village of Nisyros and it has just the right amount of somnolence to make the place perfect for a spot of aimless wandering. Two-storey houses sport brightly painted wooden balconies predominantly ochre and turquoise while others are whitewashed. The streets meander in an almost maze-like manner and it s easy to get lost. Ultimately you will end up in one of the two squares or back on the waterfront. Mandraki is the kind of settlement that feels right and cosy the moment you set foot upon it. Emborios Nikea Pali Volcano Central Crater Stefanos Avlaki Caldera Rim 600m Moni Agiou Ioanni Theologou 0 2 km 0 1 mile Lies Pahia Ammos To Tilos (20km); Rhodes (65km) Orientation & Information The port is 500m northeast of the centre of Mandraki. Take the road right from the port and you will hit the town centre. A shoreline road and an inner street both lead eventually to the tree-shaded Ilikiomenis, Mandraki s focal point. The Co-Operative Bank of the Dodecanese has an ATM at the harbour and a branch in Mandraki. Diakomihalis (% ; diakimihalis@kos.forthnet.gr) In Mandraki. Sells ferry tickets. Enetikon Travel (% ; agiosnis@otenet.gr) Provides tourist information; 100m from the quay towards Mandraki. Police (% ) Opposite the quay. Port police (% ) Opposite the quay. Post office (% ) Opposite the quay. Proveza Internet Cafe (% ; For wi-fi and freshly ground coffee. Sights Mandraki s main tourist attraction is the cliff-top 14th-century Moni Panagias Spilianis (Virgin of the Cave; % ; admission by donation; h10.30am-3pm), which is crammed with DODECANESE

283 556 NISYROS Around Nisyros Book accommodation online at KOS History 557 DODECANESE ecclesiastical paraphernalia. Turn right at the end of the main street to reach the signposted steps up to the monastery. The impressive Mycenaean-era acropolis, Paleokastro (Old Kastro) above Mandraki has well-preserved Cyclopean walls built from massive blocks of volcanic rock. Follow the route signposted kastro, near the monastery steps. This eventually becomes a path. At the road, turn right and the kastro is on the left. Hohlaki is a black-stone beach and can usually be relied upon for swimming unless the wind is up, when the water can get rough. It s on the western side of Moni Panagias Spilianis and is reached by a paved path. The small sandy Mandraki beach halfway between the port and the village centre is popular and perfectly OK for swimming. Sleeping Mandraki has a fairly limited amount of accommodation and owners do not meet incoming ferries. Book ahead to be assured of a bed in July and August. Iliovasilema Rooms (% ; d 25) Occupying one of the few central Mandraki spots, the most economical option are these fairly basic, but conveniently located rooms on the Mandraki waterfront near the old windmill. Three Brothers Hotel (% ; iiibrother@kos.forthnet.gr; s/d 36/36; a) Handy for the port and overlooking the harbour, rooms are presentable, though rather small, and come with TV and fridge. Hotel Porfyris (% ; diethnes@otenet.gr; s/d 35/40; a) Set at the back end of Mandraki, this hotel, with its now rather tired-looking early-1990s (solid, dull, rather chunky) décor is nonetheless a cool oasis. There is a large reception area, while the rooms, with fridge, TV and phone, tend to be on the cramped side. Haritos Hotel (% ; d/tr 40/50; as) A better choice, the Haritos is located 200m along the Pali road. The rooms are well appointed and have fridge, TV and telephone, and there s a welcome swimming pool fed by seawater. ota Liotridia (% ; ste 150; a) For a classy and romantic place to sleep in Mandraki, book one of the two suites above two converted oil presses. Decorated in classic Nisyriot style, with raised beds, solid furnishings, TV and a little stove top, the suites are not cheap but they re worth it for the sea views alone. Eating Ask for the island speciality, pitties (chickpea and onion patties), and wash them down with a refreshing soumada, a nonalcoholic local beverage made from almond extract. Taverna Panorama (% ; grills 3-5) Just off Ilikiomenis, heading towards Hotel Porfyris, this is a commendable option. Try suckling pig or goat, or even the seftelies (Cypriot-style herb-laced sausages). otony s Tavern (% ; mains ) On the waterfront, ex-melbournian butcher Tony does great breakfasts and excellent meat and fish dishes, as well as a wide range of vegetarian choices. His gyros (meat slivers cooked on a vertical rotisserie) is reputedly the best on Nisyros. Kleanthes Taverna (% ; mezedhes ) Perfect for a relaxed evening meal of wellprepared mezedhes and ouzo. Further east along the waterfront from Tony s, Kleanthes is a perennial favourite among locals and visitors alike. Taverna Nisyros (% ; grills 4-5;hdinner) This taverna, just off the main street, is a cheap and cheerful little place serving enticing charcoal grills and souvlakia. Restaurant Irini (% ; Ilikiomenis; mains ) Irini, on the leafy and shady central square, is recommended for its low-priced, no-nonsense and very good quality home cooking. Go inside and select your meal. AROUND NISYROS The Volcano Το Ηφαίστειο Nisyros is on a volcanic line that passes through the islands of Aegina, Paros, Milos, Santorini, Nisyros, Giali and Kos. The island originally culminated in a mountain of 850m, but the centre collapsed 30,000 to 40,000 years ago after three violent eruptions. Their legacy are the white-and-orange pumice stones that can still be seen on the northern, eastern and southern flanks of the island, and the large lava flow that covers the whole southwest, around Nikea village. The first eruption partially blew off the top of the ancestral cone, but the majority of the sinking of the central part of the island came about as a result of the removal of magma from within the reservoir underground. Another violent eruption occurred in 1422 on the western side of the caldera depression (called Lakki); this, like all others since, emitted steam, gases and mud, but no lava. The islanders call the volcano Polyvotis because, during the Great War between the gods and the Titans, the Titan Polyvotis annoyed Poseidon so much that the god tore off a chunk of Kos and threw it at him. This rock pinned Polyvotis under it and became the island of Nisyros. The hapless Polyvotis from that day forth has been groaning and sighing while trying to escape hence the volcano s name. There are five craters in the caldera (admission 2.50; h9am-8pm). A not-so-obvious and unsignposted path descends into the largest one, Stefanos, where you can examine the multicoloured fumaroles, listen to their hissing and smell their sulphurous vapours. The surface is soft and hot, making sturdy footwear essential. Be careful you don t step into a fumarole, as the steam can cause severe burns. Another unsignposted but more obvious track leads you in six to seven minutes to Polyvotis, which is smaller and wilder looking, but doesn t allow access to the caldera itself. The easiest way to visit the volcano is by tourist bus, but you will share your experience with hordes of day-trippers. Better still, scooter in from Mandraki or walk down from Nikia. Get there before 11am and you may have the volcano entirely to yourself. Emborios & Nikea Εμπορειός & Νίκαια Emborios and Nikea perch on the volcano s rim. From each, there are stunning views down into the caldera. Only a handful of inhabitants linger on in Emborios. You may encounter a few elderly women sitting on their doorsteps crocheting, and their husbands at the kafeneio (coffee house). But generally, the winding, stepped streets are empty, the silence broken only by the occasional braying of a donkey or the grunting of pigs. There s just one place to eat, the seasonal To Balkoni tou Emboriou (% ; mains 3-5), where you can enjoy the view of the crater over a relaxed lunch. In contrast to Emborios, picturesque Nikea, with 35 inhabitants, buzzes with life. It has dazzling white houses with vibrant gardens and a central square with a lovely pebble mosaic. The bus terminates on Nikolaou Hartofyli. Nikea s main street links the two squares. The steep path down to the volcano begins from Nikolaou Hartofyli. It takes about 40 minutes to walk it one way. Near the beginning you can detour to the signposted Moni Agiou Ioanni Theologou, where there is an annual feast on 25 to 26 September. Pali Πάλοι Pali is a small yacht anchorage with limited accommodation, yet a number of places to eat. The island s better beaches start here. Pali s own narrow beach is shaded by tamarisk trees and the water is shallow and suitable for children. Further along at Lies, 5.5km around the coast, is another unshaded beach, but you are better off walking an extra kilometre along an occasionally precarious coastal track to Pahia Ammos, a broad expanse of gravelly, volcanic sand. Bring your own shade. If you decide to stick around Pali, head for one of the 12 comfy, self-contained studios at Mammis Apartments (% ; d 50), on the last bend before you enter Pali proper. Thousands of butterflies may swarm here in June. The most reputable of Pali s eating options is the Captain s House (% ; grills 5-7), where you have a choice of home cooking or fish and meat grills, and where you can sit at lunch and watch the fishermen unravel their nets next to your table. K O S ΚΩΣ pop 17,890 Second only to Rhodes in popularity and population, Kos (koss) is a mellowed-down version of its big sister to the south. Beyond the resort hotels that welcome arrivals, Kos offers another less commercial face once you let the island get under your skin. Elongated and running almost west to east, Kos offers a spread of things to see and do from beaches and bars to cycling and cars with which to tour verdant hills, remote coves, and highenergy beach resorts. Archaeology buffs will find their niche in the home of western medicine. Hippocrates, the father of medicine, lived and practised here. The island has a good balance of amenities and attractions, and oodles of room to spread out. Kos certainly grows on you, but it needs a little more time than you might at first believe. History Kos fertile land attracted settlers from the earliest days. So many people lived here by DODECANESE

284 558 KOS History KOS Kos Town 559 DODECANESE KOS & PSERIMOS Telendos To Leros (15km); Patmos (45km); Piraeus (320km) Cape Drepano Agios Theologos Moni Agiou Theologou Kefalos Astypalia A E G E A N Moni Agiou Ioanni Kalymnos Pothia S E A Limnionas Agios Stefanos Kastri Kefalos Kamari Bay Camel Mastihari Plaka Forest Platy Antimahia To Nisyros (5km) To Leros (15km); Lipsi (35km); Patmos (50km) Kos Sunny Banana Markos Paradise Excursion Boat Giali Mycenaean times that it sent 30 ships to the Trojan War. During the 7th and 6th centuries BC Kos prospered as an ally of the powerful Rhodian cities of Ialysos, Kamiros and Lindos. In 477 BC, after suffering an earthquake and subjugation to the Persians, it joined the Delian League and again flourished. Hippocrates ( BC), the ancient- Greek physician known as the founder of medicine, was born and lived on the island. After Hippocrates death, the Sanctuary of Asclepius and a medical school were built, which perpetuated his teachings and made Kos famous throughout the Greek world. Ptolemy II of Egypt was born on Kos, thus securing it the protection of Egypt, under Pserimos Marmari Pserimos Antimahia Castle Cape Agios Nikolaos Exotic Magic To Nisyros (5km) Tingaki Lagoudi Pyli Amaniou Zia Kardamena Excursion Boat Pyli Castle Zipari To Nisyros (5km) Lambi Platanos Asklipieion Agios Dimitrios Asfendiou Mt Dikeos (843m) Cape Ammoudia 0 5 km 0 3 miles T U R K E Y Kos Town Therma Loutra Psalidi Agios Fokas To Bodrum (Turkey) (5km) Cape Louros Cape Fokas To Rhodes (65km) which it became a prosperous trading centre. In 130 BC Kos came under Roman domination, and in the 1st century AD it was administered by Rhodes, with which it came to share the same vicissitudes, right up to the tourist deluge of the present day. Getting There & Away AIR There are three flights daily to Athens ( 75, 55 minutes), and three flights a week to Rhodes ( 45, 20 minutes), Leros ( 45, 15 minutes) and Astypalea ( 51, one hour). Olympic Airlines (% ; Vasileos Pavlou 22) is in Kos Town. The airport (% ) is 24km from Kos Town near the village of Antimahia. AirSea Lines (% ; also offers flights to Kalymnos ( 30, 15 minutes), Mykonos ( 92, 1½ hours) and Lavrio ( 132, three hours), on the mainland. Flights leave from Kos airport. FERRY Domestic Kos is well connected to Piraeus ( 42 to 45, 10 to 15 hours) and with all the islands in the Dodecanese, such as Rhodes ( 14.20, 3½ hours) and Patmos ( 11.50, four hours), as well as additional connections to the Cyclades. In summer there is a weekly ferry service from Kos Town to Samos and Thessaloniki. Services are offered by three ferry companies: Blue Star Ferries (% ), G&A Ferries (% ) and the ANE Kalymnou (% ). Local car ferries run to Pothia on Kalymnos from Mastihari ( 3.50, one hour, four daily). In addition there are faster, passenger-only small ferries run by ANE Kalymnou, namely the Kalymnos Star and Kalymnos Dolphin from Mastihari to Pothia running up to five times daily. International There are daily excursion boats in summer travelling from Kos Town to Bodrum in Turkey ( 34 return, one hour). Boats leave at 8.30am and return at 4.30pm. HYDROFOIL & CATAMARAN Kos is served by Aegean Hydrofoils and the Dodekanisos Express and Dodekanisos Pride catamarans. In high season there are daily services to and from Rhodes ( 28, two hours), with good connections to all the major islands in the group, as well as Samos ( 25, four hours) in the Northeastern Aegean. Information and tickets are available from the many travel agents in Kos Town, though in addition to Exas Travel (% ; Hermes Shipping Agency (% ; hermes@kos.forthnet.gr) is another reliable agency. Getting Around TO/FROM THE AIRPORT An Aegean Airlines bus ( 4) leaves the airline s office two hours before the Athens departure flights. The airport is 24km southwest of Kos Town. Kefalos buses stop at the big roundabout near the airport entrance. A taxi to/from the airport from Kos Town will cost around 22. BUS The bus station (% ; Kleopatras 7) is just west of the Olympic Airlines office. Buses regularly serve all parts of the island, as well as the all-important beaches on the south side of Kos. A bus to the beaches will cost around Urban buses have two ticket prices: zone A ( 0.80) and zone B ( 1). An automatic ticket vending machine is in front of the Blue Star Ferries office on the harbour. CAR, MOTORCYCLE & BICYCLE There are numerous car, motorcycle and moped-rental outlets. You ll be tripping over bicycles to rent; prices range from 5 for a bone shaker to 10 for a half-decent mountain bike. Cycling is very popular in Kos, so make the best of the opportunity. EXCURSION BOAT From Kos Town there are many boat excursions around the island and to other islands. Examples of return fares: Kalymnos 10; Pserimos, Kalymnos and Platy 20; and Nisyros 20. There is also a daily excursion boat from Kardamena to Nisyros ( 14 return) and from Mastihari to Pserimos and Kalymnos. In Kos Town these boats line the southern arm of Akti Koundourioti. TAXIS Taxis congregate at a stand on the south side of the port. TOURIST TRAIN You can take a guided tour of Kos in the city s (vehicular) Tourist Train ( 4, 20 minutes), which runs from 10am to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm starting from the Municipality Building (Vasileos Georgiou 1). Or take a train to the Asklipieion and back (return 4), departing on the hour from 10am to 5pm Tuesday to Sunday, from the Municipal Tourist Office ( p560 ). KOS TOWN pop 14,750 Kos Town, on the northeast coast, is the island s capital and main port. The New Town, although modern, is picturesque and lush, with an abundance of palms, pines, oleander and hibiscus. The Castle of the Knights dominates the port, and Hellenistic and Roman ruins are strewn everywhere. It s a pleasant DODECANESE

285 Vyronos 560 KOS Kos Town Book accommodation online at KOS Kos Town 561 DODECANESE enough place and can easily be covered on foot in half a day. The Old Town was destroyed by an earthquake in 1933 and only part of it exists intact today. Orientation The ferry quay is north of the castle. The central square of Eleftherias is south of the harbour-side street, Akti Koundourioti, along Vasileos Pavlou. What s left of Kos Old Town is a smallish area bounded by Akti Koundourioti, Kolokotroni, Eleftheriou Venizelou and Vasileos Pavlou. It s now full of souvenir shops, jewellers and boutiques. Southeast of the castle, the waterfront is called Akti Miaouli. It continues as Vasileos Georgiou and then Georgiou Papandreou, which leads to the beaches of Psalidi, Agios Fokas and Therma Loutra. Information BOOKSHOPS News Stand (% ; Riga Fereou 2) Sells foreign-language newspapers and publications. EMERGENCY Police (% ) Shares the Municipality Building with the tourist police. Port police (cnr Akti Koundourioti & Megalou Alexandrou) Tourist police (% ) INTERNET ACCESS Cafe Del Mare (% ; Megalou Alexandrou 4; per hr 2; h9am-1am) A regular café, too. INTERNET RESOURCES Comprehensive guide to most of Kos attractions. LAUNDRY Laundromat Center (Alikarnassou 124; wash & dry 7) MEDICAL SERVICES Hospital (% ; Ippokratous 32) In the centre of town. MONEY Alpha Bank (Akti Koundourioti) Has a 24-hour automatic exchange machine and an ATM. There is another branch at El Venizelou, also with an ATM. National Bank of Greece (Riga Fereou) With ATM. POST Post office (El Venizelou) TOURIST INFORMATION Municipal Tourist Office (% ; info.gr; Vasileos Georgiou 1; h8am-2.30pm & 3-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat May-Oct) Has general information on Kos Town. Sights ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM There s a fine 3rd-century-AD mosaic in the vestibule of the archaeological museum (% ; Eleftherias; adult/student 3/2; h8am-2.30pm Tue-Sun). The most renowned statue is that of Hippocrates. ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES The ancient agora (admission free) is an open site south of the castle. A massive 3rd-century- BC stoa, with some reconstructed columns, stands on its western side. On the north side are the ruins of a Shrine of Aphrodite, Temple of Hercules and a 5th-century Christian basilica. North of the agora is the lovely cobblestone Platanou, where you can pay your respects to the Hippocrates Plane Tree, under which Hippocrates is said to have taught his pupils. Plane trees don t usually live for more than 200 years, though in all fairness this is certainly one of Europe s oldest. This oncemagnificent tree is held up with scaffolding, and looks to be in its death throes. Beneath it is an old sarcophagus converted by the Turks into a fountain. Opposite the tree is the wellpreserved 18th-century Mosque of Gazi Hassan Pasha, its ground-floor loggia now converted into souvenir shops. From Platanou a bridge leads across Finikon (called the Ave of Palms) to the Castle of the Knights (% ; Leoforos Finikon; admission 4; h8am-2.30pm Tue-Sun). Along with the castles of Rhodes Town and Bodrum, this impregnable fortress was the knights most stalwart defence against the encroaching Ottomans. The castle, which had massive outer walls and an inner keep, was built in the 14th century. Damaged by an earthquake in 1495, it was restored by the Grand Masters d Aubuisson and d Amboise (each a master of a tongue of knights see p521 for details) in the 16th century. The keep was originally separated from the town by a moat (now Finikon). On the west of the town, facing Grigoriou, turn right to reach the western excavation site. Two wooden shelters at the back of the site protect the 3rd-century mosaics of the House of Europa. The best-preserved mosaic depicts KOS TOWN Alikarnasou Amerikis 31 Martiou 5 El Venizelou To Lambi (2.5km) Pindou 25 Megalou Kanari Salaminos Pavlou Ap Irodotou Alexandrou Tsaldari To Arap Taverna (3km); Platani (3km); Asklipieion (4km); Airport (24km); Kefalos (37km) Nisiriou Grigoriou Themistokleous Averof Akti Koundourioti 10 Kolokotroni To Kalua (200m) Appelou Ifestou 33 Harbour 25 Martiou Pisandrou Ippokratous Europa s abduction by Zeus in the guise of a bull. In front of here is an exposed section of the Decumanus Maximus (the Roman city s main thoroughfare), which runs parallel to the modern road then turns right towards the nymphaeum, which consisted of once-lavish latrines, and the xysto, a large Hellenistic gymnasium with restored columns. On the opposite side of Grigoriou is the restored 3rdcentury odeion. The Temple of Dionysos consists of a few scant ruins and is located a short distance from the main site. Sleeping Pension Alexis (% ; fax ; Irodotou 9; s/d 25/30;a) This convivial travellers pension has long been a budget favourite with Riga Fereou Kleopatras SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Ancient Agora C2 Archaeological Museum B2 Castle of the Knights B1 Christian Basilica...(see 12) Hippocrates Plane Tree C2 Mosaics of the House of Europa A3 Mosque of Gazi Hassan Pasha C2 Nymphaeum A3 Odeion A3 Shrine of Aphrodite...(see 12) Temple of Dionysos B3 Temple of Hercules...(see 12) Xysto A3 41 Vasileos Pavlou 14 Finikon 1 Ag Nikolaou Interisland Ferry Quay Platanou Eleftherias Akti Miaouli G Ioannidi To Ambavris (1km) Makrygianni Koraï SLEEPING Hotel Afendoulis D3 Hotel Kamelia C3 Kos Aktis Hotel C2 Pension Alexis A2 EATING Barbas D3 H2O...(see 24) Olympiada Restaurant B3 Pote tin Kyriaki A3 DRINKING Fashion Club A1 Hamam B Vasileos Georgiou Artemisias Epiharmou m miles INFORMATION Alpha Bank & ATM... 1 B3 Alpha Bank & Exchange Machine... 2 B2 Cafe Del Mare... 3 A2 Hospital... 4 C3 Laundromat Center... 5 A2 Municipal Tourist Office... 6 C2 Municipality Building... 7 C2 National Bank of Greece & ATM... 8 B2 News Stand... 9 B2 Police...(see 7) Port Police A2 Post Office B3 Tourist Police...(see 7) Halkonos Kerme Gulf To Psalidi (3km); Agios Fokas (8km); Therma Loutra (12km) 26 visitors to the island. It has very clean rooms, a communal kitchen, and a large relaxing veranda and garden. Hotel Kamelia (% ; Artemisias; s/d 25/45;hJun-Oct;i) On a quiet tree-lined street, the Kamelia is a pleasant C- class hotel with simple but comfortable rooms with satellite TV and video. ohotel Afendoulis (% ; Evripilou 1; s/d 35/50; ia) The ebullient, English-speaking Alexis Zikas runs this very relaxed, traveller-friendly family-style establishment. The rooms are tastefully decorated and wi-fi is available in the hotel. Breakfast is optional and is offered until late. Kos Aktis Hotel (% ; Vasileos Georgiou 7; s/d 120/150;ai) Kos newest Evripilou Karaïskaki 22 Fenaretis 31 ENTERTAINMENT Orfeus D3 TRANSPORT Blue Star Ferries B2 Bus Station B3 Dodekanisos Express Ticket Kiosk B1 Exas Travel B2 Excursion Boats B2 Hermes Shipping Agency B2 Hydrofoil Departure Point C2 Local Bus Stop B2 Olympic Airlines B3 Panagia Spiliani Departure Point B1 Taxi Stand B2 Tourist Train City Tour...(see 7) Tourist Train to Asklipieion...(see 6) DODECANESE

286 562 KOS Around Kos Town KOS Around Kos 563 DODECANESE boutique art hotel is as close to the town centre as you can get. All rooms are slick, with a minimalist design, and equally suited to business travellers and those in need of a pamper. Right on the beach, this neat hotel sports a fine outdoor restaurant and café, and wi-fi access. Eating The restaurants lining the central waterfront are generally expensive and offer poor value; avoid them and head for the back streets or even further afield. Olympiada Restaurant (% ; Kleopatras 2; mains ) For reliable, predictable and simple food, the unpretentious Olympiada serves a wide range of lunch and dinner meals, among which are a variety of stuffed dishes, such as tomatoes, aubergines, zucchini and vine leaves. Barbas (% ; Evripilou 6; mains 3-5) Right opposite Hotel Afendoulis is this busy little grill with street-side tables and fetching décor. The grilled meats are the speciality and the chicken souvlaki or fillet is to die for. The chef also serves a range of equally delicious oven-cooked dishes. Pote tin Kyriaki (% ; Pisandrou 9; mezedhes ; hdinner Mon-Sat) You can t get more untouristy than this quirky ouzerie with its idiosyncratic owner and menus written by hand in school exercise books. Try the garides saganaki (skillet-fried prawns in cheese) or kolokythoanthi (stuffed and battered courgette flowers). Arap Taverna (% ; Memis, Platani; mains 4-7) It s worth the slight detour to reach this Turkish-influenced restaurant on the main square in Platani, 3km southwest from Kos town. Check out the yogurt-flavoured dishes like yiaourtoglou (fried aubergines and courgette slices in yogurt), or kavourma (pork cubes with hot green chillies in a tomato sauce). oambavris (% ; mains 4-8) For sheer ambience as well as excellent food, walk 15 minutes south out of town to this relaxed and totally nontouristy taverna. Unassuming, quality dishes are all served with a smile and friendly attitude. Try the strapatsada (vegetarian egg and tomato mix). H2O (% ; Vasileos Georgiou 7; mains 6-12) Part of the Kos Aktis Hotel complex, this cool, suave diner on the beach is almost totally overlooked by foreign travellers. It enjoys an almost exclusively discerning Greek clientele. Food is Greek-European, well prepared and artfully served. It s good, too, for a predinner aperitif on the beach-side wooden patio. Drinking & Entertainment Kos nightlife is centred on a short stretch of paved street on the south side of the harbour and in the waterfront streets on the north side of the harbour. There are lots of pickings, though the following should make for good starters. Hamam (Akti Koundourioti 1) Most bars belt out techno, but this plays Greek music. Fashion Club (% ; Kanari 2) One of Kos Town s more popular and longer-standing clubs, with three bars for you to wet your whistle. Kalua (% ; Akti Zouroudi 3) Further round the north side of the harbour, Kalua serves a mixed menu of music, including R&B. It s an outdoor venue and also has a swimming pool. Orfeus (% ; Fenaretis 3; adult 6;hsummer) This outdoor cinema screens a wide range of movies. AROUND KOS TOWN Asklipieion Ασκληπιείον The island s most important ancient site is the Asklipieion (% ; Platani; adult/student 4/3; h8.30am-6pm Tue-Sun), built on a pine-covered hill 3km southwest of Kos Town. From the top there is a wonderful view of Kos Town and Turkey. The Asklipieion consisted of a religious sanctuary to Asclepius (the god of healing), a healing centre and a school of medicine, where the training followed the teachings of Hippocrates. Hippocrates was the first-known doctor to have a rational approach to diagnosing and treating illnesses. Until AD 554, when an earthquake destroyed the Asklipieion, people came from far and wide to be treated here, as well as for medical training. The ruins occupy three levels. The propylaea (approach to the main gate), Roman-era public baths and remains of guest rooms are on the first level. On the second level is a 4thcentury-BC altar of Kyparissios Apollo. West of this is the first Temple of Asclepius, built in the 4th century BC. To the east is the 1st-century- BC Temple to Apollo; seven of its columns have been re-erected. On the third level are the remains of the once-magnificent 2nd-century-BC Temple of Asclepius. Frequent buses and the Tourist Train ( p559 ) go to the site, but it is pleasant to cycle or walk there. AROUND KOS Kos main road runs southwest from Kos Town, with turn-offs for the mountain villages and the resorts of Tingaki and Marmari. Between the main road and the coast is a quiet road, ideal for cycling, which winds through flat agricultural land as far as Marmari. The nearest decent beach to Kos Town is the crowded Lambi, 4km to the northwest. Further round the coast, Tingaki, 10km from Kos Town, has an excellent, long palesand beach. Marmari, 4km west of Tingaki, is slightly less crowded. You can easily ride your bike to these beaches via the quiet coastal road. Windsurfing is popular at all three beaches. In summer there are boats from Marmari to the island of Pserimos. Vasileos Georgiou (later G Papandreou) in Kos Town leads to the three busy beaches of Psalidi, 3km from Kos Town, Agios Fokas (8km) and Therma Loutra (12km). The latter has hot mineral springs that warm the sea. Mastihari Μαστιχάρι Escapist travellers who seek to avoid the crowds of Kos Town head to Mastihari, 30km away. It s a resort destination of sorts, but also an arrival/departure point for ferries to Pothia on Kalymnos. It s better equipped to cater for independent travellers, with a wide range of rooms and studios to rent. The beach is wide and sandy, though it does get the summer winds, and it s an open, relaxed village that feels just a little more Greek than its neighbours. Excursion boats run from here to the island of Pserimos, where you can escape for a day to its protected sandy beach and convenient tavernas. The back streets and seafront of Mastihari are full of rental options. Among these are Athina Studios (% ; gr; s/d 30-40), a block of bougainvillea-strewn apartments decorated in vivid blue and white, one street from the beach. Spacious and clean, they have full kitchen facilities. On the same street, To Kyma (% ; kyma@kosweb. com; s/d 30/35) is a pleasant, small, family-run hotel with smallish but presentable rooms that enjoy a good sea breeze. There is a clean and homey communal kitchen for guests use. Overlooking the west beach, Rooms Panorama (%/fax ; studios 35; a) has tidy, fully equipped studios, most with a kitchenette. Right on the harbour, the busy Kali Kardia Restaurant (% ; fish 7-11) is commendable the fish is particularly good. Ignore the kitsch name and sign, the Tasty Palace (% ; mains ) is right on the beach. Look for the daily specials board featuring mum s fish soup (rabbit in red wine sauce or chicken in lemon sauce). It also serves as an internet access point. For drinks, the Saloon Bar (% ) at the beginning of the beach boardwalk serves ice-cold beer, ouzo and mezedhes and is a great spot to watch the sun go down. Come here for breakfast, too. Mountain Villages Several attractive villages are scattered on the northern slopes of the green and wooded alpine-like Dikeos mountain range. At Zipari, 10km from the capital, a road to the southeast leads to Asfendiou. Along the way, 3km past Zipari, you will pass Taverna Panorama (% ; mezedhes 3-5; hlunch and dinner), which enjoys a splendid night-time view with barely a tourist in sight, as most head for Zia. Enjoy good mezedhes and excellent service in the company of a primarily Greek clientele. From Asfendiou, a turn-off to the left leads to the pristine hamlet of Agios Dimitrios. The road straight ahead leads to the village of Zia, which pulls in coachloads of tourists, but is still worth a visit for the surrounding countryside, honey, herbs and spices, and some spectacular sunsets. For eating choices in Zia, Kefalovrysi (% ; mains 5-8), a six-minute walk from the square to the upper end of the village, takes top marks for its well-priced, high-quality dishes. Among the more original choices are tomato balls, salamoura (pork cubes with onions) and Florina peppers stuffed with cheese. Back along the main drag in Zia, Taverna Olympia (% ; mains 5-8) is a less obvious choice as it doesn t have the views down to the plains but it earns its good reputation based on solid, reliable local cuisine and its repeat clientele. Lagoudi is a small, unspoilt village to the northwest of Zia. From here you can continue to Amaniou (just before modern Pyli), where there is a left turn to the ruins of the medieval village of Pyli, overlooked by an interesting ruined castle. The village of Pyli has a pleasant DODECANESE

287 564 ASTYPALEA Getting There & Away ASTYPALEA Skala & Hora 565 DODECANESE eating venue, Palia Pygi (% ; mains ), a little taverna overlooking a lion-headed fountain just off the central square. It serves sizzling grills and filling home-cooked dishes from the oven. Kamari & Kefalos Bay Καμάρι & Κέφαλος From Antimahia the main road continues southwest to the huge Kefalos Bay, fringed by a 12km stretch of sand, which is divided into roughly seven name beaches, forming the soft sandy, underbelly of Kos. Each is signposted from the main road. The most popular is Paradise, while the most undeveloped is Exotic ; Banana (also known as Langada ) is a good compromise. Agios Stefanos at the far western end is dominated by a vast Club Med complex. The beach, reached along a short turn-off from the main road, is still worth a visit to see the island of Agios Stefanos (named after its church), which is within swimming distance, and the ruins of two 5th-century basilicas to the left of the beach as you face the sea. Kefalos, 43km southwest of Kos Town, is a sprawling village perched high above Kamari. It s an animated village with few concessions to tourism. The central square, where the bus terminates, is at the top of the 2km road from the coast. There is a post office and a bank with an ATM here. Kamari, on the other hand, is an elongated holiday resort strip, some 2km from tip to toe and packed with restaurants, accommodation, shops and tourist facilities, including a handy ATM on the main road at the southern end. Water sports are big business here. Despite the clutter, the bay is quite alluring and the best overall stretch is at the southern end, where the beach is more easily accessible. Excursion boats leave from here for Nisyros ( 16) two or three times weekly. There is a good choice of sleeping options, mostly consisting of studios and rooms. About 150m south of the Kamari seafront bus stop you ll find Anthoula Studios (% ; studios 40), a spotless set of airy and roomy studios surrounded by a flourishing vegetable garden. Also nearby, Rooms to Let Katerina (% ; studios 40) is a similar choice, although studios are a bit smaller. For eating, Stamatia (% ; mains ) has a good range of well-prepared fish and meat dishes, plus some imaginative vegetarian choices like onion balls, garlic mushrooms or fried zucchini. The southern peninsula has the island s most wild and rugged scenery. Agios Theologos is on the east coast, 7km from Kefalos at the end of a winding sealed road. The beach is often surf-battered and the waters tempestuous. The only place to eat is Restaurant Agios Theologos (% ; mains ), which enjoys the best sunsets in Kos, as well as serving up tasty fish dishes, such as white snapper, plus home-made goat s cheese and crusty home-baked bread. ASTYPALEA ΑΣΤΥΠΑΛΑΙΑ pop 1238 If ever there was an island looking for an identity, it is Astypalea (ah-stih-pah-lia). Looking to all intents and purposes like an archetypically Cycladic island with its mandatory and picture-pretty hill-top hora (main town), yet belonging administratively to the Dodecanese, this butterfly-shaped gem of an island is a stunner and offers instant appeal. People come to Astypalea and never leave. It has that pull. Outside of the bustling port and cubist hora, the land is bare and eroded with nary a tree in sight. Its beaches are scattered, but most are excellent. Adventurers can seek off-road thrills in some rough and empty terrain, while gastronomes will dine well on fresh fish and lobster. Mass foreign tourism is never seen here, yet in July and August Athenians descend in force and generate controlled chaos. If you want that alternative holiday experience, look no further. Getting There & Away AIR There are five flights weekly from Astypalea to Athens ( 58, 50 minutes), plus three flights weekly to Leros ( 45, 20 minutes), Kos ( 51, one hour) and Rhodes ( 51, 1½ hours). Astypalea Tours (% ), in Skala, is the agent for Olympic Airlines. FERRY Astypalea has up to five services a week in summer to Piraeus ( 33.50, 10 to 12 hours) via Naxos ( 23, 3¾ hours) and Paros ( 28.50, 4¾ hours), and two a week to Rhodes ( 28, ASTYPALEA To Amorgos (50km); Piraeus (280km) Cape Liani Pounta Cape Armeno Panormos Kastro Agios Ioannis Moni Agiou Ioanni Vardia To Pontikousa (3km); (482m) Ofidousa (10km) A E G E A N Stavros S E A Pervoles (305m) Mesaria Exo Nisi Kaminakia Psili Vigla Moni Agiou Panteleimonos Armenohori Vatses Hora Livadi Agios Andreas Analipsi Bay (Maltezana) Astypalea Town Fokonisia Skala Tzanaki seven to nine hours) via Kalymnos and Kos. The Kalymnos-based ferry F/B Nissos Kalymnos calls in three times weekly, linking the island with Kalymnos and islands further north in the Dodecanese. Ferry tickets are available from Paradisos Ferries Agency (% ; fax ) or from Astypalea Tours (% ), both in Skala. Getting Around From Skala a bus travels every 30 minutes in July and August (four times daily other months) to Hora and Livadi ( 1), and from Hora and Skala hourly in July and August (three times daily other months) to Analipsi (Maltezana; 1.50) via Marmari. The 12pm departure terminates at the airport to connect with the Athens and Rhodes flights. There are only three taxis on the island. There are at least three car- and scooter-rental agencies on the island. Vergoulis (% ) in Skala is a reputable agency. Cape Flouda Mesa Vathy Steno Steno Bay Marmari Moura Yacht Anchorage Vaï Bay Papou Moni Agiou Konstantinou Agios Konstantinos Cape Ehili Schinontas To Kos (45km); Kalymnos (60km); Rhodes (120km) Exo Vathy Vathy Inlet Vaï Excursion Boat Mesa Nisi Agrelio Agios Fokas (Yacht Bay Anchorage) Agia Kyriaki Islet S E A O F C R E T E 0 4 km 0 2 miles Kastellanos 366m K A R P A T H I A N Kounoupa S E A Koutsomytis Cape Poularis To Kalymnos (45km) EXCURSION BOAT From June right through the summer to August there is a daily excursion boat, Thalassopouli (% ), that owner Yiannis takes to the more remote western beaches of Agios Ioannis, Kaminakia and Vatses, or to the islets of Koutsomytis or Kounoupa. When the weather is good, he runs longer round-island excursions. Tickets ( 10 to 15) can be bought on the boat. SKALA & HORA ΣΚΑΛΑ & ΧΩΡΑ The main settlement of Astypalea consists of the port of Skala (known officially as Pera Yialos) and the picturesque hill-top village of Hora, crowned by an imposing 15th-century castle. Skala can get hot and noisy in July and August, but offers a fairly popular and handy sand and pebble beach for a cooling dip. Most visitors head uphill to the usually much cooler Hora, where you can catch a hill-top breeze and enjoy a stunning view of the port and surrounds. The main square in Hora is backed by several restored windmills and is the main focal point of activity. Leading upwards from here to the castle is a series of narrow streets with dazzling-white cubic houses sporting brightly painted balconies, doors and banisters. DODECANESE

288 566 ASTYPALEA Skala & Hora Book accommodation online at ASTYPALEA Livadi 567 DODECANESE Orientation & Information Mainline ferries dock at the rather isolated small port of Agios Andreas, 6.5km north of Skala. A bus is scheduled to meet all arriving ferries, but it s best not to bank on it. The local F/B Nissos Kalymnos still docks at Skala. Look for one of the three taxis or better still, prearrange a pickup. The airport is 8km east of Skala. Flights from Athens and Rhodes are met by the local bus, though a pick-up is always a better option. Astypalea Tours (% ) In Skala. For air tickets. Commercial Bank (% ) Has an ATM; on the Skala waterfront. Municipal Tourist Office (% ;h10am- 12pm & 6-9pm) In a restored windmill in Hora. Police (% ) In a prominent Italianate building on the waterfront. Port police (% ) Shares the same building with the police. Post office (% ) At the top of the Skala Hora road. Gives a good rundown on the island s facilities and sights. Sights CASTLE Astypalea was occupied by the Venetian Quirini family, one of whom, Giovanni, built the imposing castle (admission free; hdawn to dusk) starting in In the Middle Ages the population lived within its walls in order to escape the depredations of piracy that was rife in the Aegean Sea, but gradually the settlement outgrew them. The last inhabitants left in 1953, following a devastating earthquake, as a result of which the stone houses collapsed. Above the tunnel-like entrance is the Church of The Virgin of the Castle and within the walls is the Church of Agios Giorgios. The castle is currently undergoing a prolonged restorative facelift. ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM Skala is home to a small archaeological museum (% ; admission free; h11am-1pm Tue-Sun). The whole island of Astypalea is, in fact, a rich trove of archaeological treasure, and many of the finds are on display here. The collection runs from the prehistoric Mycenaean period through to the Middle Ages. Look out for a fine selection of grave offerings from two Mycenaean chamber tombs excavated at Armenohori, and the little bronze Roman statue of Aphrodite found at Trito Marmari. The museum is at the beginning of the Skala Hora road. Sleeping There s a range of good sleeping options on the island, usually consisting of rooms, studios and apartments. Reservations are pretty well essential in July and August. Hotel Australia (% ; d/tr 45/50; a) This long-popular hotel has well-kept rooms with fridge and phone, and a friendly Greek Australian owner. There s an excellent inhouse restaurant, too. You ll find it tucked away on the north side of Skala harbour. Avra Studios (% ; d 50; a) For location you can t beat these five fully self-contained and spacious studios right on Skala beach. From the two front ground-floor studios, with their own shaded balconies, you are literally 5m from the beach. Hotel Paradissos (% ; s/d 45/55; a) This ageing but wellmaintained hotel overlooks Skala harbour, with comfortable fridge and TV-equipped rooms. Its main advantage is that it s open year-round. Akti Rooms (% ; d/tr 65/70; a) On the northeast side of the harbour, this block of rooms, all with fridge, phone and TV, enjoys some superb harbour views from its balconies. Restaurant Akti, a popular restaurant-café, is handily located here, too. othalassa Hotel (% ; d/t incl breakfast 100/120; ai) The newest and unquestionably most enticing place to stay on the island is this relaxing hotel apartment complex in Skala. Rooms are spacious and airy and come with all facilities, including a bar fridge equipped with French champagne. Breakfast is made from organic local products. Eating There are not a lot of eating options in Astypalea, though the food tends to be of good quality. Astakomakaronadha (lobster in pasta) is the island s traditional (though pricey) dish. Agoni Grammi (% ; snacks 3-6) Australians take note: sit under a gum tree with ouzo on the rocks at sunset and a small platter of mezedhes and you ll almost feel at home. On the main square in Hora, this cosy cafécum-snack bar is a neat place to chill out at the end of a long day. Jolly Café (% ; breakfast 5-6) The best place to grab some breakfast is slap-bang on the Skala waterfront under the shade of a tamarisk tree. Grab some waffles and coffee early and later in the day a cold Corona and snack. Maïstrali (% ; mains 5-8) Tucked away in the little street behind the harbour is this yachtie-popular eatery that has a predictably fish-based menu, but occasional ovenbaked specials such as succulent lemon goat. Service is brisk and friendly, and dining is alfresco on the shaded, stepped balcony. Restaurant Akti (% ; mains ) For the best harbour-side dining in Astypalea give Akti a whirl. Perched high up on a cliff on the north side of Skala, the few tables overlooking the harbour are enormously popular. So, too, is the food, which includes fisherman s pasta or poungia (cheese foldovers). oto Akrogiali (% ; mains ) Dine on the beach, literally, or on a pleasant slate-paved patio punctuated by a huge tamarisk tree. The smell of freshly cooked food from the busy kitchen complements the friendly service and good-quality mezedhes at this cosy taverna. Try the tigania (pork cubes) or soft local cheeses, such as hlori or ladotyri. LIVADI ΛEΙΒΑΔΙ The little resort of Livadi lies in the heart of a fertile valley 2km from Hora. Its wide pebble and fine-gravel beach is one of the best on the island, but can get fairly crowded in summer. There are at least a couple of recommendable sleeping options. First up are the smallish but well-equipped Venetos Studios (% ; fax ; studios 50-60; a), set around a shady orange-tree grove. On the seafront itself are the neat studios of Manganas (% ; astyroom@otenet.gr; studios 50-60; a), some 20m from the beach and each with kitchenette and fridge. There are a handful places to eat at Livadi all strung out along the tree-shaded waterfront. Trapezakia Exo (% ; mains ) is a neat little snack-bar-cum-restaurant at the western end of the beach strip. Snap up a fast sandwich, enjoy the cuttlefish speciality or check out the daily specials menu Astropelos (% ; mains 6-9) serves a small but imaginative range of dishes. There is the pricey pasta with lobster or grilled giant prawns and a cheaper fried calamari option. It s worth it for its shaded beach-front patio as much as for its cuisine. WEST OF SKALA Heading west of Skala you hit the big Astypalea outback. Here is a land of gnarled, bare and rolling hills with scarcely a sealed road to speak of. It s all driveable (just), but you ll need a solid 4WD or off-road motorcycle. An access road peels upwards northwesterly from Skala and follows the hill ridges past Psili Vigla to a road junction at Stavros after 6km. Head north and follow the sign to the socalled Kastro (Castle) near the Moni Agiou Ioanni, which is reached via a detour after another 2km. The strictly fit may venture downwards from here on foot to Agios Ioannis beach. If you keep driving or biking, you ll struggle up and down along an abominably rough road with nevertheless stunning views of the uninhabited islets of Pontikousa and Ofidousa off-shore to the lonely, yet very swimmable, Panormos. Chances are that the beach will be yours alone as few people venture up here. From the Stavros junction another rough track winds upwards to the shepherd s hut on the mountain spine and then an extremely rough track (take care) winds downwards to Kaminakia beach, where there is a good seasonal restaurant, Sti Linda (% ; mains 4-7; hjul-sep), which rustles up hearty fish soups, oven-baked goat and home-made bread. The road back to Livadi is still unsealed but appreciably better. Detour, if time or energy allows, to the pretty, tree-shaded Agios Konstantinos beach on the south side of Livadi Bay. EAST OF SKALA To the east of Skala is the easterly wing of the butterfly the waist being marked by a narrow isthmus that barely joins the two halves of the island. Marmari, 2km northeast of Skala, has three bays with pebble and sand beaches and is home to Astypalea s Camping Astypalea (% ; camp sites per adult/tent 6/4). Though it only operates from June to September, this tamarisk tree shaded and bamboo-protected camping ground is right next to the beach and has a café and a minimarket. Steno, 2km further along, is one of the better but least frequented beaches on the island. It s sandy, has shade and is well protected. This is the point where the island is just 105m wide. Analipsi (also known as Maltezana) is 7km beyond Marmari in a fertile valley on the DODECANESE

289 568 KALYMNOS Getting There & Away KALYMNOS Getting There & Away 569 DODECANESE isthmus. A former Maltese pirates lair, it s a scattered, pleasantly laid-back settlement with a long sand and pebble beach, shaded by more ever-welcoming tamarisk trees. The water is clean and shallow. There are the remains of the Tallaras Roman baths with mosaics on the settlement s outskirts. Accommodation is concentrated in Maltezana. Maltezana Rooms (% ; fax ; d 35) is a pretty reasonable option, just east of the quay set back 50m from the beach. Villa Varvara (%/fax ; studios 45/54; a) has 12 blue-and-white painted studios overlooking a vegetable garden and is just 100m from the beach; all have TV and fridge. The most expensive accommodation here, and on the island overall, is Hotel Maltezana (% ; s/d 75/110; pa) on the middle section of the foreshore. The cubed, white studios are all spacious and tastefully furnished, though feel a little lonely in their isolation. Eating choices in Maltezana are strictly limited. Astakos (% ; mains 3-5), just over the headland at Schinontas, is perhaps the best choice of very few options. Try the strapatsada (wild-greens mélange mixed with egg yolk) or the bourloto (spicy oven- baked cheese). Drive or ride an additional 11km as far as Mesa Vathy if curiosity gets the better of you. Perhaps detour to the unsheltered Vaï beach if you want to swim, or duck down to the small yacht haven at Agrelidi. Remote Mesa Vathy hamlet is an indolent yacht harbour in a sheltered bay. The swimming is mediocre at best, but you can fish for your lunch or dine at the laid-back Galini Café (% ; mains 3-5; hjun-oct), which offers meat and fish grills and the odd oven-baked special. KALYMNOS ΚΑΛΥΜΝΟΣ pop 16,441 Kalymnos (kah-lim-nos) was once renowned as the sponge-fishing island, whose islanders travelled far and wide in search of this strange marine animal to equip our bathrooms. Today sponge fishing is all but gone and the island is working hard to reinvent itself as a tourist destination. It has a challenging task ahead of it, but it s making progress. Kalymnos is a largish, arid island, dotted with fertile valleys and punctuated by rocky mountains. It s to the perpendicular cliffs of some of these mountains that climbers flock to test their mettle, as rock-climbing is big on Kalymnos. Its resorts cater mainly to individuals, and walkers will find a network of ready-to-walk trails and paths that criss-cross the landscape. While the main town can be busy and brash, and the islanders may seem a little preoccupied with business, Kalymnos offers a holiday lifestyle that will suit many. Getting There & Away AIR Kalymnos is linked by a daily Olympic Airways flight to and from Athens ( 75, 20 minutes). Olympic Airlines is represented by Kapellas Travel (% ; kapellastravel@gallileo.gr; Patriarhou Maximou 12) in Pothia. The airport is some 3.5km northwest of Pothia, perched high up on a mountain top. The island is also linked to Kos ( 30, 15 minutes), Mykonos ( 80, 45 minutes) and Lavrio ( 120, two hours) on the Attica mainland via a seaplane run by AirSea Lines (% ; The seaplane terminal is 1.5km east of Pothia. FERRY Kalymnos is linked to Rhodes ( 18, five hours) and Piraeus ( 42, nine to 11 hours) and islands in between, including useful links to Astypalea ( 11, three hours) and Alexandroupoli ( 38.50, 23¼ hours). Services are provided by Blue Star Ferries (% ), G&A Ferries (% ) and ANE Kalymnou (% ). In high season there is usually at least one ferry daily. Car and passenger ferries leave four times daily between 7am and 8pm from Kalymnos main town Pothia to Mastihari on Kos ( 3, 50 minutes). ANE Kalymnou also runs two highspeed, passenger-only vessels, the Kalymnos Star and the smaller Kalymnos Dolphin, between Pothia and Mastihari. On Friday and weekends it also includes Pserimos on the route. The high-speed, passenger-only Lipsibased Anna Express (% ) links Pothia with Leros and Lipsi five times weekly. Tickets can be bought on board. There is a daily caïque ( 7) from Myrties to Xirokambos on Leros at 1pm and half-hourly services to Telendos Islet. HYDROFOIL & CATAMARAN One daily hydrofoil links Kalymnos with islands to the north such as Patmos ( 20, 1½ KALYMNOS Leros To Leros (10km); Patmos (40km); Samos (90km); Piraeus (310km) To Astypalea (70km) Xirokambos Gabiani Velona Cape Koukoula Diapori 365m Kalpi Cape Aspro Piganousa Glaronisia A r g i n o n da Telendos Islet Hohlakas Agia Kyriaki Paradise Platys Gialos Cape Trahilos Linaria Kandouni A E G E A N S E A Cape Patella Hondri Myti 435m 470m Emborios Argos Moni Agias Ekaterinis Pithari Bay Vothyni Agios Andreas Vlihadia hours), and Samos ( 26, 2½ hours) and Kos ( 12.50, one hour) to the south. Tickets can be bought from Magos Travel (% ; magos@klm.forthnet.gr) in Pothia. The Dodekanisos Express and Dodekanisos Pride catamarans call in four times daily during summer on their runs up and down the Dodecanese chain. Fares are similar to those of the hydrofoil. Tickets are issued by G&A Ferries (% ). Getting Around BUS In summer there is a bus departing hourly from opposite the cathedral to Masouri ( 1.50) via Myrties, Emborios ( 2) and Vathys ( 2), four times daily. Buy tickets from the To Leros (6km); Lipsi (30km); Patmos (40km) Paleonisos Cape Pounda Skalia Paleonisos Kalavros Bay Arginonda Bay Pezonda Arginonda Bay Drasonda Langounara Armeos Stimenia Mt Pirnari (425m) Masouri Mt Kyra Myrties Kalymnos Psili (650m) Metohi Almyres Mt Profitis Platanos Ilias (725m) Panormos Vathys (Elies) Rina Horio Pera Kastro Castle of Mt Vokari the Knights (330m) of St John Pothia Moni Panagias Eleoussis Moni Agiou Kefalas Cave Savra Cape Kefalas Nera Therma Excursion Cape Agios Boat Georgios 0 4 km 0 2 miles Akti Akti Bay Excursion Cape Atsipas Cape Hali Saronisi To Kos (10km); Rhodes (120km) Kalolimnos To Pserimos (6km) Municipality of Kalymnos ticket office by the bus stop in Pothia. EXCURSION BOAT From Myrties there is a daily excursion boat to Emborios ( 8), leaving at 10am and returning at 4pm. Day trips to the Kefalas Cave ( 20), impressive for its stalactites and stalagmites, run from both Pothia and Myrties. TA X I Shared taxi services cost a little more than buses and run from the Pothia taxi stand (% ; Kyprou) to Masouri. The taxis can also be flagged down en route. A regular taxi to Myrties costs 10 and to Vathys it costs 15. Boat DODECANESE

290 570 KALYMNOS Pothia Book accommodation online at KALYMNOS Around Pothia 571 DODECANESE POTHIA ΠΟΘΙΑ pop 10,500 Pothia (poth-ya), the port and capital of Kalymnos, is a fairly large town by Dodecanese standards. It is built amphitheatrically around the slopes of the surrounding valley, and its visually arresting melange of colourful mansions and houses draped over the hills makes for a particularly photogenic sight when you first arrive. However, Pothia is a brash and overly busy town and its nightly parade of preening motorcyclists can make for some nerve-rattling noise pollution, while dining out or relaxing over a port-side drink can be testing at the best of times. It is nonetheless the island s social focal point and love it or leave it you ll be passing through Pothia at some point. Orientation & Information Pothia s quay is located at the southern side of the port. Most activity, however, is centred on the main square, Eleftherias, abutting the waterfront. The main commercial centre is on Venizelou, along which are most of the shops. The Commercial and Ionian Banks, with ATMs, are close to the waterfront. Kapellas Travel (% ; fax ; Patriarhou Maximou 12) For air tickets. Magos Travel (% ; magos@klm.forthnet.gr) Hydrofoil and catamaran tickets. Neon Internet Cafe (% ; per hr 3; h9.30am-midnight) Modern large internet and gaming café. Police (% ; Venizelou) Before the post office. Port police (% ; 25 Martiou) Post office A 10-minute walk northwest of Eleftherias. There is a more covenient agency south of Ethinikis Andistasis Tourist Information (% ; 25 Martiou) An informative website hosted by the Municipality of Kalymnos. Sights North of Kyprou, housed in a neoclassical mansion that once belonged to a wealthy sponge merchant, is the Archaeological Museum (% ; adult/student 2/1; h8.30am-2pm Tue- Sun). In one room there are some Neolithic and Bronze-Age objects. Other rooms are reconstructed as they were when the Vouvalis family lived here. In the centre of the waterfront is the Nautical & Folklore Museum (% ; adult/student 2/1; h8am-1.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-12.30pm Sat & Sun). Its collection is of traditional regional dress, plus a section on the history of sponge diving. Sleeping While there is a fair selection of sleeping options in Pothia, most travellers head for Myrties and Masouri. Pothia is really only handy if you need to take an early ferry. Pension Greek House (% ; s/d/studios 25/35/40) Inland from the port, this is a pleasant budget option with four cosy woodpanelled rooms with kitchen facilities. More expensive and better-equipped studios are also available. Hotel Panorama (% ; smiksis2003@yahoo.gr; s/d incl breakfast 25/45; a) This small hotel is situated high up and enjoys one of the best views in Pothia. It s clean and breezy, rooms have TV and fridge, and it has a pleasant breakfast area. ovilla Melina (% ; antonio santonoglu@yahoo.de; s/d 50/60; as) Pothia s most appealing accommodation is equally suitable for romantic couples seeking a hideaway, or for travellers in search of old-world peace and quiet. This stately villa (which was recently renovated) harks from another age, featuring palm trees, a lush garden and a swimming pool. POTHIA To Airport (3.5km) 3 Antheon INFORMATION Commercial Bank & ATM... 1 C3 Ionian Bank & ATM... 2 C2 Kapellas Travel...(see 27) Magos Travel...(see 28) Main Post Office... 3 A1 Neon Internet Café... 4 D2 Police... 5 B1 Port Police... 6 C4 Post Office... 7 C3 Public Toilets... 8 C3 Tourist Information... 9 C4 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Archaeological Museum C1 Cathedral of Agios Christos C3 Nautical & Folklore Museum C3 SLEEPING Hotel Panorama B3 Pension Greek House B3 Villa Melina C1 EATING Barba Petros D2 O Baba Stoukas D2 Pandelis Restaurant C4 Pizza Imia C3 To Tholami C3 Xefteris Taverna C Kyprou Patriarhou Georgio Ikonomou Irodotou Maximou Agios Nikolaos Eating To Tholami (% ; mains ) Another well-established eatery, tucked away on a corner in Eleftherias, that is popular with locals and visitors alike. Recommended dishes are octopus patties and grilled tuna steaks. Xefteris Taverna (% ; mains ) This long-standing (founded 1915) yet recently spruced up and expanded taverna serves solid quality food, confirming its good reputation. The meal-sized dolmadhes and the beef stifadho are recommended. Pandelis Restaurant (% ; mains ) The specialities at this homey eatery favoured by locals are goat in red-wine sauce and home-made dolmades. Worth a mention also are the prawns in pasta and the charcoalgrilled meat cuts. Good wine selection and family atmosphere. O Barba Stoukas (% ; mains 6-8) Of the handful of waterside ouzeries, this one is about the closest you can get to the sea. Dishes are solid and well cooked, and the service is friendly. The Kalymnian, croutonloaded salad mermizeli features here, as does a rich skillet-cooked prawn and tomato sauce worth sampling. Pizza Imia (% ; pizza 7-12) If you don t mind the waterfront motorcycle racket, the imaginatively constructed and filling pizzas from the wood-fired oven make a great change from stock Greek fare. The wine list is impressive and the service brisk and cheery. AROUND POTHIA Running northwards from the port is a busy, densely populated valley with a series of almost contiguous settlements. The ruined Castle of the Knights of St John (Kastro Hrysoherias) looms to the left of the Pothia Horio road. There is a small church inside the battlements Kolokotroni Venizelou (Emboriki) Patriarhou Maximou TRANSPORT ANE Kalymnou C4 Bus Terminus & Municipality of Kalymnos Ticket Office C2 Excursion Boats C3 Ferry, Hydrofoil & Catamaran Quay D3 G&A Ferries C4 Kapellas Travel B3 Magos Travel C4 Taxi Stand B1 27 Eleftherias Ethnikis Andistasis To Vlihadia (3km); Vothyni (3km) 10 Hristos Martiou m miles 23 8 Port of Kalymnos 6 9 Pelekanou Patitries Agoras To Seaplane Terminal (1.5km) To Gefyra (1.5km); Therma (2.5km) On the east side of the valley Pera Kastro was a pirate-proof village inhabited until the 18th century. Within the crumbling walls are the ruins of stone houses and six tiny, well-kept churches. Steps lead up to Pera Kastro from Horio; it s a strenuous climb but the splendid views make it worthwhile. A tree-lined road continues from Horio to Panormos (also called Elies), a pretty village 5km from Pothia. Its prewar name of Elies (olive trees) derived from its abundant olive groves, which were destroyed in WWII. An enterprising postwar mayor planted many trees and flowers to create beautiful panoramas wherever one looked hence its present name, meaning panorama. The sandy beaches of Kandouni, Linaria and Platys Gialos DODECANESE

291 572 KALYMNOS Myrties, Masouri & Armeos KALYMNOS Emborios 573 DODECANESE are all within walking distance of Panormos, while a cliff-diving competition is held annually at Kandouni (see below ). Outdoor Activities In recent years Kalymnos has become something of a mecca for rock climbers. Some spectacular limestone walls backing the resorts now attract legions of climbers looking for seriously challenging extreme sport. There are about 21 documented climbs awaiting the adventurous, pulling in visitors from as early as March onwards. The Municipal Athletics Organisation (%/fax ; mao@klm.forthnet.gr) is a good place to start for the full low-down; see also the Municipality s website ( The annual Diving Festival held in mid-august offers participants the chance to compete at underwater target shooting, cliff diving, scuba-diving through wrecks and caverns or even hunting for lost treasure. See the Municipality s website ( for further details. Hiking has become enthusiastically organised on Kalymnos. There are some 10 established hiking routes scattered all over the island. All are listed in detail on the excellent 1:25,000 Kalymnos Hiking Map published by Anavasi (% ; Stoa Arsakiou 6a, Athens). Perhaps the most convenient hike is the Vathys Pothia B1 4.25km Italian Rd walk along a stone pathway built by the Italians at the beginning of the 20th century; the more adventurous might opt for an arduous 9km circuit of the Patella Castle loop (C3 and C4) along the mountain ridge backing Emborios in the north of the island. MYRTIES, MASOURI & ARMEOS ΜΥΡΤΙΕΣ, ΜΑΣΟΥΡI & ΑΡΜΕΟΣ From Panormos the road continues to the west coast, with stunning views of Telendos Islet, until it winds down into Myrties (myr-tyez), Masouri (mah-soo-ri) and Armeos (ar-me-os). These contiguous and busy resort centres host the lion s share of Kalymnos modest resort industry. The three centres are essentially one long street, packed head to tail with restaurants, bars, souvenir shops and minimarkets. Towards land, apartments and studios fill the hillside, while on the sea side an extinct volcano plug separates the dark sand beach into two distinct sections Myrties beach, with Melitsahas harbour, and the marginally better Masouri and Armeos beaches to the north. There are currency-exchange bureaus, a Dodecanet ATM, car- and motorcyclerental outlets and one internet café. Avis Rental (% ; Myrties) is a professional rental outfit. Most accommodation in Masouri and Myrties is a combination of simpler rooms and more expansive and self-contained studios and apartments. There are plenty of choices. On the Myrties side of the resort strip are the exceptionally comfy, airy and spacious studios/apartments of Villa Myrtia (% , ; d/t 35/60; a), boasting large shaded verandas and right on the beach. Next door and also occupying a similar beach-side location, Acroyali (% ; acroyali@klm.forthnet.gr; d/t 35/45; a) is a set of impressive self-contained studios decked out in a more traditional style. Each studio has a wide private balcony. There s no shortage of places to eat. A top choice is I Drosia (% ; seafood mezedhes 5-12) overlooking Melitsahas harbour. Among the excellent mezedhes on offer are kalognomones (Kalymnian mussels), ahini (sea urchins) and a real treat whole squid stuffed with creamy feta cheese. In Masouri, Kelly s (% ; mains 3-6) serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, with staples like mousakas and beef in red wine sauce and a smattering of French-influenced dishes. In Myrties, Babis Bar (% ) is a mix of café, internet joint, bar and general hang-out, favoured by expats and travellers alike. It s a hearty spot for a full English breakfast ( 6) to start your day. From Myrties there s a daily caïque at 12.30pm to Xirokambos on Leros ( 7), and Emborios ( 7) in the north of Kalymnos, as well as half-hourly boats to Telendos Islet ( 1.50). TELENDOS ISLET ΝΗΣΟΣ ΤΕΛΕΝΔΟΣ The low-key, tranquil and (almost) traffic-free islet of Telendos, with a little quayside hamlet, was part of Kalymnos until separated by an earthquake in AD 554. It s now a super escape from the busy resort strip opposite. Turn right from Telendos quay and you will pass the ruins of the early Christian basilica of Agios Vasilios. Further on, there are several pebble and sand beaches, including a locally acceptable nudist beach. To reach the far superior, 100m-long and fine-pebbled Hohlakas, turn left from the quay and then right at the sign to the beach. Follow the paved path up and over the hill for 10 minutes. Paradise on the northern side of Telendos is the beach for the unclads. Walk for five minutes past On the Rocks Cafe Rooms. Telendos accommodation consists of a number of rooms and one hotel. Opposite the quay is George s (% ; d 30), while adjoining the café of the same name is On the Rocks Cafe Rooms (% ; studios 45; a) offering four studios equipped with every convenience imaginable, including fridge, satellite TV, double glazing and mosquito nets. Guests can also access the internet and will be picked up for free at Melitsahas harbour on Kalymnos or even in Pothia. Telendos only hotel as such is Hotel Porto Potha (% ; portopotha@klm.forthnet.gr; s/d 30/35; s), 100m beyond On the Rocks Cafe. Rooms are airy and bright, and there s a large lobby where guests come to relax and watch TV over a drink. The best place to eat n schmooze is On the Rocks Cafe (% ; mains 5-8), where Greek Australian owner Georgos serves wellprepared meat and fish dishes as well as vegetarian mousakas, and baked or grilled tuna and swordfish. It turns into a lively music bar at night with over 300 cocktails to choose from and on two evenings a week it hosts lively Greek Nights. Up on the hill overlooking Hohlakas is the Sunset Restaurant (% ; mains 5-6), which is a great spot to watch the sunset (naturally), as well as sample an international, yet Dutch-influenced, menu of mains and snacks. Caïques for Telendos depart half-hourly from the Myrties quay between 8am and 1am (one way 1.50). EMBORIOS ΕΜΠΟΡΕΙΟΣ The scenic west-coast road winds a further 11.5km from Masouri to Emborios, where there s a pleasant, shaded sand and pebble beach, as well as a minimarket and Artistico Café (% ) for evening entertainment, sometimes featuring live guitar renditions. One of the best places to stay on Kalymnos for a full relax-out experience is Harry s Apartments (% ; d/tr 27/33;ai). Stressed-out executives from Milano, lovers from London and poets from Poznań all find a piece of paradise in this quiet, relaxing corner of Kalymnos. The capacious rooms are tastefully decorated each one coloured and decorated individually and enjoy sea-view balconies. Choose the Kalymnian Traditional House ( 45 to 55), with a raised bed for a spot of extra space and style. A stay here is made all the more attractive by the lush flower garden and adjoining Paradise Restaurant (% ; mains ), run by the charming Evdokia. She rustles up a good line in vegetarian dishes, such as revithokeftedes (chickpea rissoles) and filo-pastry turnovers with fillings such as aubergine, vegetables and onion. Stuffed mushrooms or zucchini flowers is another one of her specialities. VATHYS & RINA ΒΑΘΥΣ & ΡΙΝΑ Vathys, 13km northeast of Pothia, and its long fertile valley are one of the most beautiful and peaceful parts of the island. Vathys means deep in Greek and refers to the slender fjord that cuts through high cliffs into the fertile valley, where narrow roads wind between citrus orchards. You can hardly miss the high stone walls called koumoula that ribbon along the narrow access roads. These mark the property extents of the landowners. There is no beach at Vathys harbour, Rina, but you can swim off the jetty at the south side of the harbour. Water taxis (% ) take tourists to quiet coves, such as Almyres and Drasonda bays, nearby. An annual cliff-diving competition takes place at Vathys as part of the international Diving Festival (see opposite ). While there are at least a couple of accommodation and eating options, there is little incentive to stay as the proprietors do little to convince visitors to linger. It has all become a bit tired recently and after dark things can be a little too quiet. It s still worth the excursion out here, if only for a swim and a cold beer. Visitors can now cut across the island from Vathys on a partially sealed road to Arginonda and then back to Masouri. By the time of writing the road was sealed as far as the ridge-top spur at Langounara (8.5km from Vathys). When finally complete by this book s publication, the road will be a much quicker way to get to the north of the island from Vathys. DODECANESE

292 574 LEROS Lakki LEROS Leros 575 LEROS ΛΕΡΟΣ pop 8207 Almost completely overlooked by foreign travellers, languid Leros (leh-ros) lies lightly between Kalymnos and Lipsi, self-reliant, introspective and almost content to let mainstream tourism pass it by. But Leros has plenty on offer an attractive mix of sun, sea, rest and recreation, a stunning medieval castle and some excellent dining. A popular Greek song wistfully remembers its hills, but there are the bays and beaches, the laid-back lifestyle and the pervading sense that this island has not yet given up its Greekness. Leros is popular with domestic travellers and always enjoys a busy summer season. The Italians loved Leros, too, having left their legacy in a set of prewar Art Deco buildings that are incongruous in their Aegean island setting. It is hard to pigeonhole Leros. Travellers need to savour the island themselves. Marathi and Agathonisi. It departs from and arrives at the port of Agia Marina. HYDROFOIL & CATAMARAN In summer a hydrofoil and two catamarans depart daily from both Agia Marina and Lakki to Patmos ( 16.50, 45 minutes), Lipsi ( 11.50, 20 minutes), Samos ( 20, two hours), Kos ( 16.50, one hour) and Rhodes ( 38, 3¼ hours). Getting Around The hub for Leros buses is Platanos. There are three buses daily to Partheni via Alinda and four buses to Xirokambos via Lakki ( 1 flat fare). Car-, motorcycle- and bicycle-rental outlets tend to be centered on the Alinda tourist strip. Motoland (% ) offers newer bikes and scooters as well as gourounes (four-wheeled bikes), which are hot fun to drive. Taxis can be hailed on (% , or ). LEROS Faradonisia Cape Markelos Arhangelos Islet Mt Markelos (264m) Agios Nikolaos Bay Temple of Artemis Cape Tesmari Partheni Bay Chapel of Agia Kioura Partheni Blefoutis Leros Blefoutis Bay Trypiti To Lipsi (10km); Patmos (25km); Samos (50km) Strongyli Cape Asfoungaros Mt Klidi (320m) Cape Panosimi 0 2 km 0 1 mile DODECANESE Getting There & Away AIR There is a flight daily to Athens ( 54, one hour), as well as three flights a week to Rhodes ( 45, two hours 10 minutes) via Kos ( 38, 20 minutes). There are also three flights a week to Astypalea ( 45, 15 minutes). Olympic Airlines (% ; is in Platanos, before the turn-off for Pandeli. The airport (% ) is near Partheni in the north. There is no airport bus and the local bus does not accommodate arriving or departing flights. A taxi from the airport to Alinda will cost 8. EXCURSION BOAT The caïque Katerina leaves Xirokambos at 7.30am daily for Myrties on Kalymnos (one way 7) and returns at 1.30pm. FERRY Leros is on the main north south route for ferries between Rhodes and Piraeus. There are daily departures from Lakki to Piraeus ( 32 to 36, 11 hours), Kos ( 11, 3¼ hours) and Rhodes ( 23, 7¼ hours). Buy tickets at Leros Travel (%in Lakki , in Agia Marina ). The Lipsi-based Anna Express (% ) links Leros with Kalymnos and Lipsi five times weekly, while once a week it detours to Arki, LAKKI ΛΑΚΚΙ pop 2366 Arriving at Lakki (lah-kee) by boat is akin to stepping into a long-abandoned Federico Fellini film set. The grandiose buildings and wide tree-lined boulevards dotted around the Dodecanese are best (or worst) shown here, for Lakki was built as a Fascist showpiece during the Italian occupation. Few linger in Lakki, though it has decent accommodation and restaurants, and there are some secluded swimming opportunities on the road past the port. The port has internet access at the quayside Kinezos Café. Worth detouring to is the historically relevant War Museum & Merikia Bunker (% ; admission 3; h9.30am-1.30pm), a short drive west beyond the Lakki Port to Merikia. Here you can escape the stifling Leros heat to seek cool solace in the hill-puncturing bunkers of former provisions and armament warehouses built by the Italians during WWII. They are now home to an eclectic and widely varied collection of memorabilia dating from the time of the Battle of Leros when the Germans captured Leros from the Italians and the British from September to November XIROKAMBOS ΞΗΡΟΚΑΜΠΟΣ Xirokambos Bay, on the south of the island, is a low-key resort with a gravel and sand To Lipsi (15km); Patmos (25km); Piraeus (300km) A E G E A N S E A Cape Katakrotiri Cape Ikonisma To Kalymnos (20km) Agios Isidoros Drymonas Mt Patelia (248m) Cape Katsouni Kokkali Gourna Bay Cape Angistro Alinda Krithoni Gourna War Museum & Merikia Bunker 255m Lakki Bay Alinda Bay 204m Platanos Vromolithos Lakki Agia Marina Lepida Xirokambos Cape Bay Xirokambos To Kalymnos (15km) Cape Kastro Pandeli Pandeli Bay 233m Paleokastro Xirokambos Pandeli Castle 288m Cape Diapori Velona Kalpi Cape Aspro Agia Kyriaki To Kalymnos (20km); Kos (35km) Gabiani Piganousa DODECANESE

293 576 LEROS Platanos & Agia Marina Book accommodation online at PATMOS History 577 DODECANESE beach and some good spots for snorkelling. Just before the camping ground, on the opposite side, a signposted path leads up to the ruined fortress of Paleokastro. Xirokambos is home to Leros only camping ground. Camping Leros (% ; camp sites adult/tent 6.50/4) has tent sites that are interwoven into a shady olive grove. Look for it on the right 3km from Lakki. There is a small restaurant and bar on site, and you ll also find Panos Diving Club (% ; here, offering a series of wreck dives and training courses. For a spot of self-contained comfort, Villa Alexandros (% ; d 55; a) is a classy option. The self-contained studios each have kitchenette, fridge and fly screens on the windows, and look out onto a pleasant flower garden. You ll find it 150m back from the beach. For eating, a good bet is the well-shaded and modern fish taverna To Aloni (% ; mains 4-8), abutting the beach. Fish dominates the menu but there is also an extensive array of mezedhes on offer. PLATANOS & AGIA MARINA ΠΛΑΤΑΝΟΣ & ΑΓΙΑ ΜΑΡΙΝΑ pop 3500 Platanos (plah-ta-nos ), the capital of Leros, is 3km north of Lakki. It s a bustling and picturesque village spilling over a narrow hill and pouring down to Pandeli to the south and the port of Agia Marina (ay-i-a ma-ri-na) to the north. The busy port has more of a social and nightlife scene than the neighbouring Alinda resort a little further to the north, though there is no swimming to speak of. Platanos is the commercial centre of the island and is also the starting point for the path up to the Pandeli Castle (% ; admission castle 2, castle & museum 3; h8am-12.30pm & 4-8pm), from where there are stunning views in all directions around Leros; the museum is also worth a visit. Orientation & Information The focal point of Platanos is the lively central square, N Roussou. From this square Harami leads to Agia Marina. The bus station and taxi rank are both about 50m along the Platanos Lakki road. The National Bank of Greece is on the central square. There are two ATMs at Agia Marina, including a handy one at the port itself. Enallaktiko Café (% ; per hr 4; h10am-midnight) Wi-fi access; in Agia Marina. Laskarina Tours (% ; fax ) In Platanos; very helpful and also organises trips around the island. Police (% ) In Agia Marina. Post Office (% ) On Harami in Platanos. Tourist Information Kiosk (% ) In Agia Marina. Sleeping & Eating Tassos II Apartments (%/fax ; Agia Marina; d 45; a) These fully equipped studios with kitchen, ironing facilities, satellite TV, coffee maker, money safe and hairdryer are excellent value. They are on the left along the main road leading to Alinda. Crithoni s Paradise Hotel (% ; c.para dise@12net.gr; s/d 90/140; pas) Resembling a neoclassical Italian mansion from the turn of the century and complete with palm trees, bars, restaurant and relaxing lounges for afternoon cocktails, this sprawling A-class hotel is a good top-end choice. Ouzeri-Taverna Neromylos (% ; Agia Marina; mains ) The most atmospheric of the tavernas at Agia Marina, this one is next to a former watermill. Night-time dining is best when lights illuminate the watermill. Fish and grills predominate but there is a good selection of mezedhes. Entertainment Agia Marina is the heart of the island s nightlife, with several late-night music bars. Possibly the most lively hang-out is Enallaktiko Cafe, where you can shoot pool, play video games or sip an ouzo on ice while chilling out at sunset. PANDELI & VROMOLITHOS ΠΑΝΤΕΛΙ & ΒΡΩΜΟΛΙΘΟΣ Head south from Platanos and you ll soon hit Pandeli, a little fishing village-cum-resort with a sand and shingle beach. Keep on going around the headland via the footpath and you ll stumble on Vromolithos, where you ll find an even better, narrow shingly beach with some tree shade in the middle section. A scattering of sleeping and eating choices serve both settlements. At a pinch Pandeli wins in the sleeping stakes and there s a bit more concentrated daytime activity and nightlife to pull in the evening punters. Easy to spot for its striking blue-and-white columned façade on Pandeli port, Rooms to Rent Kavos (% ; d 35) is a sensible choice. Rooms are largish, sport balconies and have fan and fridge. Grab a front room if you want a harbour view. Up on the hill is the always popular Pension Rodon (% ; d 30;hyear-round), a reliable and welcoming choice with comfortable rooms. For an innovative culinary experience like you will find on few other islands, head on up to the aerie-like establishment of Dimitris o Karaflas (Dimitris the Bald;% ; mezedhes 3-7), with stunning views overlooking Vromolithos beach. Owner Dimitris combines fresh food elements in tantalising ways to make dining a refreshing change. His hallmark chicken in retsina, or pork in wine sauce, satisfy solidly, while his mezhedes options include batiris (a kind of dip), or pita kaisarias, a savoury pie featuring pastourmas (spicy cured beef). At Pandeli, Psaropoula (% ; mains 5-8) is right on the beach and is as good as any of the several tavernas plying their trade here. Psaropoula has a wide-ranging menu featuring fish; the prawn souvlaki with bacon is recommended. KRITHONI & ALINDA ΚΡΙΘΩΝΙ & ΑΛΙΝΤΑ Krithoni and Alinda are contiguous resorts on the wide Alinda Bay, running about 3km northwest from Agia Marina. Most of the action is concentrated at the Alinda end, where the only real danger is from the parades of kamikaze motorcyclists who roar indiscriminately up and down the narrow beachside road. The beach is pebbled and the water is very clean. Further to the north around the bay are some quieter coves and beaches. On Krithoni s waterfront there is a poignant, well-kept war cemetery. After the Italian surrender in WWII, Leros saw fierce fighting between German and British forces; the cemetery contains the graves of 179 British, two Canadian and two South African soldiers. Not surprisingly for the island s main resort area there are plenty of sleeping choices. Hotel Alinda (% ; fax ; s/d 30/40; a) is an older-style but spickand-span hotel, with 41 small, comfortable rooms offering good value. The highly regarded in-house restaurant does a fine line in home-made cooking. Hotel Gianna (%/fax ; s/d 35/45) is just behind the war cemetery and far enough away from the strip to be quiet. All rooms are pleasantly furnished. For comfortable self-catering, Tassos Studios I (% ; fax ; studios 42; a) has beautiful, fully equipped mini-apartments close to Krithoni beach, run by the same owners as Tassos II in Agia Marina. Set amid a lush garden of flowers, shrubs and shady trees and backed by a small vineyard, the old-style mansion To Arhontiko tou Angelou (% ; s/d incl breakfast 90/155; a) is an ideal retreat for a few days. The capacious rooms are high ceilinged, have wooden floors and the wrought-iron beds are so comfortable: for once you can sleep in Greece on pillows that allow interrupted dreaming. Lambros (% ; mains ) offers you tables no more than 2m from the lapping waters of Alinda Bay. Flavour-ridden home cooking characterises this friendly lunch or dinner taverna. The rich mousakas is worthy of an honourable mention. Right next door and also on the beach, Fanari (% ; mains 4-7) serves enticing mezedhes such as bekri mezes (meat chunks in a piquant sauce), or spanakopitakia (mini spinach turnovers). PATMOS ΠΑΤΜΟΣ pop 3044 If ever the sense of spirit of place was a tangible entity, it s certainly true of Patmos (paht-moss). When you step off the ferry on Patmos (the northernmost Dodecanese island) you sense its appeal. The island has that quality like no other. Could it be that it was for that same reason that John the Divine ensconced himself in a cave and wrote the Apocalypse here? Patmos is a place of pilgrimage for both Orthodox and Western Christians and is, without doubt, the best place to come and experience Orthodox Easter. Spirituality aside, the beaches are many and magnificent; accommodation is top quality and in abundance (you can even get married in one hotel s church), and dining is a recommendable activity. The translucence of the light is remarkable and the landscape gives an inescapable sense of harmony and balance. History In AD 95 St John the Divine was banished to Patmos from Ephesus by the pagan Roman Emperor Domitian. While residing in a cave on the island, St John wrote the Book of DODECANESE

294 578 PATMOS History Book accommodation online at PATMOS Skala 579 DODECANESE PATMOS I K A R I A N S E A To Piraeus (270km) Mt Agios Nikolas Evdilou (181m) Lefkes Bay Mt Agios Andonios (128m) Agios Nikolaos Bay Kambos Kambos Bay Cape Fokias Alyki Agriolivado Agios Agia Georgios Thekla Kentronisi Merika Bay Agriolivado Bay Cape Kokarina Trypitis Netia Meloï Mt Kasteli Skala Cape (144m) Port Vamvakias Skala Aspri Hohlakas Bay Sklava Cape Krithamias Cape Zouloufi Monastery of the Apocalypse Hora Monastery of St John the Theologian Mt Profitis Ilias (269m) Cape Kalana Lefkes Mt Aetofolia (165m) Sapsila Patmos Mt Kokkino (194m) Cape Sardela Livadi Kalogiron Kambos Lambi Bay Lambi Mt Pigi (167m) Mt Hondro (228m) Vagia Grikos Cape Hesmenis Grikos Bay Kalikatsos Rock Petra Tragonisi Mt Kouvari Psili Stavros (225m) Diakofti Ammos Bay Bay Diakofti Cape Alykes Yennoupas Cape Firos Cape Vitsilia Livadi tou Geranou Cape Hondros Hiliomodi To Leros (20km); Kos (65km); Rhodes (160km) 0 2 km 0 1 mile Cape Geranos A E G E A N S E A To Marathi (12km); Arki (13km); Agathonisi (30km); Samos (50km) To Lipsi (10km) Revelations. In 1088 the Blessed Christodoulos, an abbot who came from Asia Minor to Patmos, obtained permission from the Byzantine Emperor Alexis I Komninos to build a monastery to commemorate St John. Pirate raids necessitated powerful fortifications, so the monastery looks like a mighty castle. Under the Duke of Naxos, Patmos became a semi-autonomous monastic state, and achieved such wealth and influence that it was able to resist Turkish oppression. In the early 18th century a school of theology and philosophy was founded by Makarios and it flourished until the 19th century. Gradually the island s wealth became polarised into secular and monastic entities. The secular wealth was acquired through shipbuilding, an industry that diminished with the arrival of the steam ship. Getting There & Away EXCURSION BOAT The local Patmos Star (% ) leaves Patmos daily for Lipsi and Leros at 10am (return 8) and returns from Lipsi at 3.30pm. The Delfini (% ) goes to Marathi daily at 10.10am in high season and Monday and Thursday at other times (return 15). Twice a week it also calls in at Arki. From Marathi a local caïque will take you across to Arki (1¼ hours). The Lambi II goes to Arki, Marathi and Lipsi on Wednesday and Saturday at 9am and returns at 2pm FERRY Patmos is connected with between four and five ferry services weekly to/from Piraeus ( 32.50, seven to eight hours), Rhodes ( 28.50, six to 7½ hours) and a number of islands in between. Mainline services are provided by the faster and sleeker Blue Star Ferries and the slower and less glamorous G&A Ferries. The slow F/B Nissos Kalymnos provides additional links to Arki, Agathonisi and Samos, as well as to Leros and Kalymnos. Tickets are sold by Apollon Travel (% ; apollontravel@stratas.gr) in Skala. Additionally the Lipsi-based and very fast Anna Express connects Patmos with Lipsi, Leros and Kalymnos. Tickets are bought onboard. HYDROFOIL & CATAMARAN There is a daily hydrofoil to Kos ( 43, three hours) and destinations in between. This same hydrofoil also links Patmos with neighbouring Samos ( 14.50, one hour). The Dodekanisos Express and Dodekanisos Pride catamarans link Patmos twice daily during summer with islands to the south. Tickets can be bought at Apollon Travel (% ; apollontravel@stratas.gr) in Skala. Getting Around BUS From Skala there are 11 buses daily in July and August to Hora, eight to Grikos and four to Kambos. The frequency drops off during the rest of the year. Fares all cost a standard 1. CAR & MOTORCYCLE There are a number of car- and motorcyclerental outlets in Skala. Competition is fierce, so shop around. Moto Rent Express (% ) in the street behind the post office is a reliable outfit for car and scooter rentals. EXCURSION BOAT Boats go to Psili Ammos from Skala, departing about 10.15am and returning about 4pm. TA X I You can catch a taxi (% ) from Skala s taxi rank. Fares include Meloï 3.50, Hora 4.50, Grikos 4.55 and Lambi 7. SKALA ΣΚΑΛΑ Patmos port town is Skala (ska-la), a bright and glitzy place, draped around a curving bay and only visible from arriving ships once the protective headland has been rounded. The port bustles and large cruise ships are often anchored offshore, while smaller ones heave to at Skala s harbour. Once the cruise ships and ferries depart, Skala reverts to being a fairly normal, liveable port town. It has a wide range of excellent accommodation and restaurants, and all the island s major facilities are located here. Orientation & Information All transport arrives at the centre of the long quay, smack bang in the middle of Skala. To the right the road leads to the yacht port at Netia and on to the north of the island. To the left the road leads to the south side of the island. From near the ferry terminal a road leads inland and up to Hora. The bus terminal and taxi rank are at the quay. All main services are within 100m of the ferry quay. There are two ATM-equipped banks in Skala: the National Bank of Greece and the Commercial Bank. AB Food Market (% ) There s a wellstocked AB (Vasilopoulos) Food Market 100m along the Hora road in Skala. Apollon Travel (% ; apollontravel@stratas.gr) Ticketing for flights, Blue Star Ferries, and hydrofoil and catamaran services. Blue Bay Internet Café (% ; per hr 4; h9am-2pm & 4-8pm) At the Blue Bay Hotel; offers wi-fi. Dodoni Gelateria (% ; per hr 4; h9am-9pm) Connect to the internet and eat ice-cream at the same time. Hospital (% ) Two kilometres along the road to Hora. Laundry (% ) On the bend between Skala and Netia. Dry cleaning and laundry services. Municipal Tourist Office (% ; hsummer) Shares the same building as the post office and police station. Police (% ) On the main waterfront. Port police (% ) Behind the quay s passenger-transit building. A useful website with information on Patmos. Sleeping BUDGET Hotel and studio owners usually meet all arrivals at the port, but it s best to call ahead and arrange a pick-up, as mainline ferries often arrive at unsocial hours. DODECANESE

295 580 PATMOS Hora PATMOS North Of Skala 581 DODECANESE Pension Maria Pascalidis (% ; s/d 20/30) One of the better budget options is this long-standing traveller-friendly place, on the road leading to Hora. The simple but quite presentable rooms are set amid a leafy citrus-tree garden. Domatia Katina (%/fax ; s/d 35/50;a) These four tidy rooms are out on the northern edge of Skala, each with good views, fridge, kitchenette, TV and four-poster bed. The everhospitable and smiling Katina will pick you up from the port if you call ahead. Pension Avgerinos (%/fax ; d 50) In a slightly quieter, elevated part of Netia, affording good views over the bay, this homey choice is run by a welcoming Greek Australian couple. All rooms are cosy and comfortable and have fridge and fan. oyvonni Studios (% ; s/d 30/55;i) These four exceptionally well-appointed, clean and pleasant studios are on the hillside in a verdant garden in Hohlakas Bay. Each is fully self-contained and has a balcony that faces the Monastery of St John in Hora. Call into Yvonni s gift shop in Skala and ask for Theologos. MIDRANGE odoriza Bay Hotel (% ; d/maisonettes 40/70; a) High above the south side of Hohlakas Bay is this newer room and apartment complex. Opt for a spacious two-storey maisonette with internal spiral staircase, or a very comfortable double room. Captain s House (% ; s/d incl breakfast 55/75; sa) A cool, open, split-level interior welcomes guests upon arrival. Each comfortable, stuccowalled room has TV, fridge and phone. The front rooms have the best views, but can get the noise from the sometimes rowdy nightlife nearby. Blue Bay Hotel (% ; s/d incl breakfast 70/100; ia) This Australian- Greek owned waterfront hotel has very clean, pleasantly furnished rooms and is at the quieter far southern end of Skala, just round the last bend. The wi-fi is handy for laptop-equipped travellers. Eating Pandelis Taverna (% ; mains ) One of the more picturesque diners, this busy little taverna has been in business for over 50 years. Lunch in the street over a newspaper and a beer can t be beaten. The service is efficient and the dining at night is very atmospheric. The best bets are the daily home-cooked specials. Tzivaeri (% ; mains 4-7) Solid, unsurprising menu choices but excellent quality especially the squid either stuffed or fried. The service is fast and courteous. Dine upstairs on the covered balcony and observe the active street life below. The owner Yiannis may bring out his lute for a round of island or Cretan music if the mood takes him. Hiliomodi Ouzeri (% ; mezedhes platter 10.50;hyear-round) For the freshest fish on the island head to this ouzerie for its excellent seafood dishes and very reasonably priced seafood-based mezedhes. The Hiliomodi is patronised as much by locals as by visitors. ovegghera (% ; mains 8-14) Yachties and high-society diners head for this swish, air-conditioned establishment opposite the yacht marina. The cuisine is a mélange of French and Greek. Worth sampling is the calamari with pesto, or maybe linguini in a tangy tomato, orange and ginger sauce. Entertainment Skala s musical nightlife revolves around a scattering of bars and the odd club or two. Arion (% ) Café life and street gossip reach their zenith at this busy little meeting place, café, breakfast joint and general social hotspot at all times of the day. Anemos (% ; h9pm-late Thu-Sun) Just outside Skala and within walking distance on the hill heading up to Kambos is this trendy beer house and music bar in an old stone house. Aman (% ) On the south side of Skala, Aman predisposes people to sitting outside on its tree-shaded patio and listening to music to the feel of a cold beer or inventive cocktail. HORA ΧΩΡΑ Huddled around the Monastery of St John are the immaculate whitewashed houses of Hora. These houses are a legacy of the island s great wealth in the 17th and 18th centuries. Some of them have been bought and renovated by wealthy Greeks and foreigners. A stroll through the maze-like, whitewashed streets is an experience in itself. Walk randomly around the monastery and lose yourself in a timeless atmosphere. The immense Monastery of St John the Theologian (% ; admission free; h8am-1.30pm daily, 4-6pm Tue, Thu & Sun), with its buttressed grey walls, crowns the island of Patmos. A 4km vehicular road winds up from Skala, but many people prefer to walk up the Byzantine path, which starts from a signposted spot along the Skala Hora road. Some 200m along, a dirt path to the left leads through pine trees to the Monastery of the Apocalypse (% ; admission free; treasury 6; h8am-1.30pm daily, 4-6pm Tue, Thu & Sun), built around the cave where St John received his divine revelation. In the cave you can see the rock that the saint used as a pillow, and the triple fissure in the roof, from where the voice of God issued and which is said to symbolise the Holy Trinity. The finest frescoes of this monastery are those in the outer narthex. The priceless contents in the monastery s treasury, billing itself as the Grandest Museum in the Aegean, include icons, ecclesiastical ornaments, embroideries and pendants made of precious stones. Dine alfresco in the square or in the secluded garden at Vangelis Taverna (% ; mains ) and enjoy its cosy, intimate ambience. Good menu choices include bekri mezes and the similar spetsofaï rich and spicy cubed-meat concoctions. Loza (% ) on the northwest corner of Hora is the best spot for a sunset drink and snack with stunning views over Skala, while the Stoa Cafe (% ) opposite Vangelis Taverna is an internet wi-fi hotspot. NORTH OF SKALA The relaxing, tree-shaded Meloï is just 2km northeast of Skala. It s home to Stefanos Camping (% ; camp sites per person/tent 7/2), the island s only camping ground. It offers bamboo-shaded sites, a minimarket, cafébar and motorcycle-rental facilities. Between Skala and Meloï, and set back alone abutting a verdant vegetable plot, is Stefanos Studios (% ; stefstud@12net.gr; studios a). Tastefully furnished in pine they are airy, spacious and have full kitchenette facilities. Feel free to help yourself to the fresh vegetables in the garden. To Meloï (% ; grills 4-6), at pretty Meloï, is a well-regarded and inexpensive fish taverna with a predictable menu mix of home-cooked dishes, fish and grills. Heading north, just out of Skala on the hill enjoying stunning views, is the plush Porto Scoutari Hotel (% ; d/tr incl breakfast ; pais). This is the classiest and most romantic place to sleep on Patmos. Each self-contained and individually named studio is impeccably decorated, and comes with a large personal balcony. There s even an on-site church, should you wish to get married and honeymoon in the same location. ST JOHN THE DIVINE & THE APOCALYPSE The island of Patmos is home to the Cave of the Apocalypse where St John the Divine was allegedly visited by God and instructed to write the tell-all Book of Revelations, more commonly known as the Book of the Apocalypse. He is often believed to be John the Apostle of Jesus or John the Evangelist, though many would dispute this. His AD 95 exile to Patmos by the pagan Roman Emperor Domitian would tend to rule out the first two options. In the Book of Revelations John wrote to the seven Christian churches of Asia about two apocalyptic visions he had received. Those churches were Ephesus, Smyrna, Pergamos, Thyatira, Sardis, Philadelphia and Laodicea. The first vision (1:11 3:22), relates one like unto the Son of man, clothed with a garment down to the foot, and girt about the paps with a golden girdle, speaking with a great voice, as of a trumpet. The second vision comprises the remainder of the book (4 22) and begins with a door opened in the sky. It goes on to describe the end of the world involving the final rebellion by Satan at Armageddon, God s final defeat of Satan, and the restoration of peace to the world. Revelation is considered to be open to interpretation at best and is not afforded the serious scholarly study that it would seem to merit perhaps because of the obscure and essentially hard-to-interpret symbolism of the work. Some critics have even suggested that it was the work of a deranged man. Notwithstanding, what is clear is that a certain John did write an important spiritual work perhaps divinely inspired and most likely in the very cave close to the monastery that now bears his name. DODECANESE

296 582 LIPSI LIPSI Lipsi Village 583 DODECANESE A turn-off right from the main road leads to the relatively quiet and shaded Agriolivado. Further along you ll quickly reach the inland village of Kambos, from where the road descends to the shaded and shingle Kambos, perhaps the most popular and easily accessible beach on the island. Dining choices include To Agnanti (% ; mezedhes ), a neat little ouzerie with a range of reasonably priced mezedhes. At the northern end of the beach is the cool George s Place (% ; snacks 3-5), where you can play backgammon to laid-back music, graze on a light lunchtime snack and knock back ice-cold beers or colas. The main road soon forks left to Lambi, 9km from Skala, where you wind down to an impressive beach of multicoloured pebbles. High up above the beach on the approach road, the locally revered Psistaria Leonidas (% ; mains ) rustles up a wide range of homemade, home-cooked specials, various fishof-the-day plates and highly recommended saganaki dishes. Under the protected lee of the north arm of the island are several more beaches, including the shaded Livadi tou Geranou, with a small church-crowned island opposite replete with the minichapel of Agios Georgios. For lunch, you can do no better than the excellent Livadi Geranou Taverna (% ; mains 3-5) overlooking the sea and pulling in the main share of the local beach drifters. The food is home style, honest and relatively inexpensive. SOUTH OF SKALA A quiet little corner 3km south of Skala, Sapsila is ideal for book lovers who want space, peace and quiet, and a couple of under-used beaches to read on. The best down-time spot for a week or more with a stack of novels is the immaculate, self-contained Mathios Studios (%/fax ; d/tr studios 40/50; ai). These eight fully equipped and tastefully decorated studios are set in a quiet, leafy garden 200m from Sapsila. The upstairs units are the best as they catch the breeze and enjoy the finest views. Owners Giakoumina and Theologos make all guests feel very welcome. For eating locally don t miss Benetos (% ; Sapsila; mains 7-14; hdinner Tue- Sun), perhaps the most enticing place to dine on Patmos. It s a working boutique farmhouse and specialises in Mediterranean fusion dishes with an occasional Japanese kick. Entrées could include sea urchin roe with a mayonnaise sauce a fine match for ouzo on the rocks. Suggested mains might mean the hallmark zucchini blossoms stuffed with mushrooms and cheese, or the herb-crusted, pan-seared tuna served rare with a Mediterranean sashimi twist. Finish up with a fresh, vodka-laced sgroppino, a lemon sorbet, frozen dessert drink. Grikos, 1km further along over the hill, is a relaxed low-key resort with a narrow sandy beach and shallow, clean water. Dining is best enjoyed at a couple of tavernas on the southwest side of Grikos Bay. Flisvos Restaurant (% ; mains 4-7) is a well-shaded, modern establishment dishing up filling grills and mayirefta with particularly good oven-baked revithia (chickpeas), while 100m further along is Ktima Petra (% ; mains 4-7), emphasising organic and home-grown produce. The stuffed and wood-oven baked goat just melts in your mouth and the organic cheese and vegetables simply ooze flavour. The menu selection is small, but there s a good wine list representative of Greece s best vines. Diakofti, the last settlement in the south, is reached by a round-about sealed road, or a rougher and shorter coastal track passing the startling Kalikatsos Rock, abutting pebbly Petra. The long, sandy, tree-shaded Psili Ammos can be reached by excursion boat or walking track; here you ll find a popular, seasonal beach taverna. LIPSI ΛΕΙΨΟΙ pop 698 Blink on the deck of your ferry or catamaran and you might miss Lipsi (lip-see). Almost unheard of outside a slowly growing circle of island cognoscenti, Lipsi lives out a somewhat isolated yet palpably quality existence among a scattering of lesser-known northern Dodecanese islands. Long discovered by Italians and latterly by French travellers who jealously guard their discovery to themselves, this dry, rocky island boasts no major attractions. Its drawcard is its relative anonymity, its fine beaches, its undemanding treatment of visitors no clubs or pubs to speak of and a sense that you have the island to yourself, apart from two or three days in August when pilgrims and revellers descend upon Lipsi for its main religious festival. Getting There & Away FERRY Connections with Lipsi are tenuous at best. There is currently only one long-haul G&A ferry per week linking the island directly with Piraeus ( 40, 12 hours). Lipsi is better connected with its neighbouring islands. ANE Kalymnou s F/B Nissos Kalymnos calls eight times weekly in summer, linking Lipsi with Samos, Agathonisi, Leros and Kalymnos. The small local, but very fast ferry Anna Express (% ) links Lipsi five times weekly with Kalymnos and Leros, competing in speed at least with the hydrofoil and catamarans. At other times it serves Patmos, Arki, Marathi and Agathonisi. The larger Patmos Star arrives from Patmos three days a week and links Lipsi with Leros and Patmos. HYDROFOIL & CATAMARAN In summer one Samos-based hydrofoil calls at Lipsi twice daily on its route between Samos and Kos and return. The Dodekanisos Express LIPSI To Marathi (12km); Arki (15km); Agathonisi (25km) To Patmos (10km) Aretousa Moschatou Bay Cape Armenistis Manolis Mt Skafi (277m) Church of Ano Panagia Makronisi Church of Agios Ioannis Theologos Kimisi Bay Lipsi Church of Kato Panagia Piato Psomos Kaparonisi Pilavi Cape Glarokavos Platys Gialos Kambos and Dodekanisos Pride catamarans call in up to six times weekly in summer on their route between Patmos ( 9.50, 30 minutes) and Rhodes ( 42, 4½ hours) and islands in between. Getting Around Lipsi has a minibus departing hourly to the beaches of Platys Gialos, Katsadia and Hohlakoura (each 1) between 10.30am and 6pm. Two taxis (% , ) also operate on the island. There are one or two motorcycle-rental outlets. LIPSI VILLAGE pop 600 Hugging the deep harbour, Lipsi village is a cosy community of white-painted and blueshuttered homes that have an immediately good feel to them. Orientation & Information All boats dock at Lipsi Port, where there are two quays. The ferries, hydrofoil and catamarans all dock at the larger, outer jetty, while excursion boats dock at a smaller jetty nearer the centre of Lipsi village. The Anna Express A E G E A N S E A Liendou Lipsi Village Lipsi Bay Stavri Katsadia Lyra Church of Panagia tou Harou Katsadia Bay Cape Aspros Kavos To Leros (10km) Kamaries Aspronisia Monodendri Tourkomnima Cape Tourkolimano Xirokambos Hohlakoura 0 2 km 0 1 mile Kouloura DODECANESE

297 584 LIPSI Lipsi Village Book accommodation online at ARKI & MARATHI 585 DODECANESE docks close to the large main church in the inner port. It s a 500m walk from the outer jetty to the church. The post office is on the upper, central square (that is a little quieter than the lower, and busier, harbourside square). The Cooperative bank of the Dodecanese on the port changes money and has an ATM. Café Kavos (% ) Towards the outer jetty; offers internet access which costs per hour 4. Lipsos Travel (% ) In Lipsi village; issues tickets for the Anna Express and organises excursions. Police (% ) In the port. Port police (% ) In the port. Tourist office (% ;h30min prior to ferry, hydrofoil & catamaran departures) This small office is at the outer jetty and issues ferry, hydrofoil and catamaran tickets. A fairly useful but limited resource about the island Sights & Activities Of macabre political interest is the pink villa, once occupied by the leader of the ultrasecretive November 17 terrorist group, who lived for a number of years under a pseudonym among the unsuspecting islanders. The solitary-standing villa is visible high on the bluff to the north side of the small boat harbour. While it s not open to visitors, the outer gate of the compound can be reached via a cement track on the north side of the bluff. Lipsi s museum (admission free; h11am-1pm) is hardly earth shattering, but contains a small collection of odd items such as pebbles and bottles of holy water from various locations around the world. It s on the village s central square, opposite the large church. Rena and Margarita do Five Island boat trips to Lipsi s offshore islands for 18; these are a popular diversion for a sail, picnic and swim. Both excursion boats can be found at Lipsi s smaller jetty and depart at around 10am daily. Festivals & Events The annual religious festival of Panagia tou Harou takes places around 24 August when the island fills up with visitors from all over the Dodecanese. After a religious festival and procession through the island s narrow roads with an icon of the Virgin Mary, all-night revelry takes place in the lower village square with live music, food and wine. An annual wine festival takes place for three days during August yearly. There s dancing, free wine and festive fun. Check locally for the exact dates as they are not fixed. Sleeping O Glaros (% ; d 30) Set back high up on the hill, about 100m from the village s small boat harbour, these smallish but airy and comfortable rooms have a wide communal balcony and a well-equipped shared kitchen. orizos Studios (% ; fax ; d/tr 44/50) These exceptionally wellpresented studios are crafted onto the hillside inland from Liendou Bay. With immaculately decorated, cool, stone-paved floors and cushion-strewn rooms plus every kitchen utensil imaginable, they would have to be the best retreat on Lipsi for a self-contained getaway. Canadian-born but Nottinghamraised hostess Anna welcomes guests with an inimitable flashing smile. Michalis Studios (% ; mkram vousanos@yahoo.gr; d 50;a) Spacious open-plan studios sleeping two to three people, with fridge, TV and kitchenette. These are a good choice for a longer stay on the island. Panorama (% ; d/tr 50/55; a) High up over the outer harbour, these rooms enjoy a fine vista of sea and port and have little balconies to relax on. They are simple and unpretentious, and very handy for ferries. Rooms Galini (% ; matsouri@yahoo.gr; d 55) An unassuming simple option, Galini is high up, overlooking the harbour. Rooms are comfortable enough yet simple, well lit and sport refrigerator, cooking ring and balcony. Eating The harbour has most of the eating options, but there are a couple of cafés in and around the quieter upper square. Rock (% ; mezedhes 3-5) This coffee bar and ouzerie offers some unusual mezedhes such as sea urchins, while the succulent grilled octopus is a standard mezes best taken at sunset over a small glass of ouzo with ice. Yiannis Restaurant (% ; grills 5-7) The long-standing and ever-popular psistaria (restaurant serving grilled food) near the outer jetty features mostly grills, though you will find the odd mayirefta and one or two mezesstyle dishes for vegetarians. Pefko (% ; mains ) The newest of the harbour tavernas, Pefko has perhaps the most imaginative menu selection. Try the ambelourgou (lamb in yogurt wrapped in vine leaves), or the Pefkos special oven-baked beef with eggplant. Theologos (% ; price upon request) Dine on the freshest fish on the island while seated on a pebble-covered ledge overlooking the harbour. Theologos specialises in fish, which is caught by the owner s boat moored right next to its tables. Non-fish dishes are also available. otholari (% ; mains ) Run by a Tasmanian-Greek family, this low-key but tidy taverna in the middle of the harbour rustles up popular dishes like prawn saganaki or a rich rabbit stew. Check the daily specials board for hearty mayirefta. Karnagio (% ; mains 8-13) One of the more innovative eating options is at this rather imposing restaurant at the far side of the harbour. Fish and pasta dishes dominate the menu but there is a wide selection of meat and mayirefta dishes. AROUND THE ISLAND Lipsi has quite a few beaches, all within walking distance of Lipsi village. Some are shaded, some are not; some are sandy, others gravely and at least one is for nudists. Getting to them makes for pleasant walks through countryside dotted with smallholdings, olive groves and cypress trees. The minibus services the main ones. Liendou is the most accessible and naturally the most popular beach. The water is very shallow and calm; the best beach for children. It s 500m from Lipsi village, just north of the ferry port over a small headland. Next along is sandy Kambos, a 1km walk along the same road that leads to Platys Gialos. Take the dirt road off to the left. There is some shade available. Beyond Kambos the road takes you after a further 2.5km to Platys Gialos, a lovely but narrow sandy beach. The water here is turquoise-coloured Caribbean, shallow and perfect for children. Nearby is the decent Kostas Restaurant (% ; grills ; h8am-6pm Jul-Aug, later on Wed & Sat), which dishes up excellent fish and grill dishes, as well as a smattering of daily mayirefta. South, 2km from Lipsi village, is the sandand-pebble Katsadia, shaded with tamarisk trees and easily reached on foot, or by the hourly minibus. There is one distinguished place to eat, the Dilaila Cafe Restaurant (% ; mains 5-8), which is right on the beach. The shady restaurant-cum-bar is caressed by an eclectic range of musical selections during the day and evening. Make sure to ask for mad feta, a spicy, baked feta cheese melange or the fried-rice specials. Accommodation can be found at the airy and tastefully furnished Katsadia Studios (% ; d 55), which overlooks the beach. The pebble Hohlakoura, to the east of Katsadia, offers neither shade nor facilities. Further north, Monodendri is the island s unofficial nudist beach. It stands on a rocky peninsula, and there are no facilities. It s a 3km walk to get there, though it is reachable by motorcycle. ARKI & MARATHI ΑΡΚΟΙ & ΜΑΡΑΘΙ These two satellite islands flung to the near east of Patmos may look down at heel upon first glance, but the yachts in the harbours belie the fact that they have been discovered by voyageurs of the floating kind. Serious solace seekers chill out here: often for a week or more. Media personalities and computer geeks mingle with yachties, artists, politicians and the occasional backpacker on the courtyard-sized harbour front. There are neither cars nor motorbikes. Just pack your bathers, books and ipod and forget the world exists for a while. ARKI & MARATHI 0 Marathi Church of Agios Nikolaos To Patmos (12km) Arki Marathi Arki 2 km 0 1 mile A E G E A N Church of Metamorfosis S E A Tiganakia Bay To Lipsi (6km) DODECANESE

298 586 AGATHONISI Getting There & Away Book accommodation online at AGATHONISI Agios Giorgios 587 DODECANESE Getting There & Away The F/B Nissos Kalymnos calls in up to four times weekly as it shuttles between Patmos and Samos on its vital milk run. In summer the Lipsi-based excursion boats visit Arki and Marathi, and a number of Patmos-based caïques do frequent day trips (return 15). ARKI ΑΡΚΟΙ pop 50 Tiny Arki, 5km north of Lipsi, is hilly, with shrubs but few trees. Its only settlement, the little west-coast port, is also called Arki. Islanders make a living from fishing and tourism. There is no post office or police on the island, but there is one cardphone. Away from its little settlement, the island seems almost mystical in its peace and stillness. The Church of Metamorfosis stands on a hill behind the settlement. From its terrace are superb views of Arki and its surrounding islets. The cement road between Taverna Trypas and Taverna Nikolaos leads to the path up to the church. The church is locked, but ask a local if it s possible to look inside. Several secluded sandy coves can be reached along a path skirting the right side of the bay. To reach the path, walk around the last house at the far right of the bay, go through a little wooden gate in the stone wall, just near the sea, and continue ahead. Tiganakia Bay on the southeast coast has a good sandy beach. To walk there from Arki village, take the cement road that skirts the north side of the bay. Tiganakia Bay is reached by a network of goat tracks and lies at the far side of the headland. You ll recognise it by the incredibly bright turquoise water and the offshore islets. Arki has three tavernas, two of which have quite comfortable rooms; bookings are necessary in July and August. First up, O Trypas Taverna & Rooms (% ; tripas@12net.gr; d 35) is to the right of the quay, as you face inland, and has 16 rooms available. Suggested dishes (mains 5 to 7) at the taverna are fasolia mavromatika (black-eyed beans) and pastos tou Trypa (salted fish). Nearby Taverna Nikolaos Rooms (% ; d 35) is the second option. The food (mains 5 to 7.50) is not much different here; try the potatoes au gratin or stuffed peppers with cheese, or the local goat cheese called sfina, which is like a milder form of feta. MARATHI ΜΑΡΑΘΙ Marathi is the largest of Arki s satellite islets. Before WWII it had a dozen or so inhabitants, but now has only one family. The old settlement, with an immaculate little church, stands on a hill above the harbour. The island has a superb sandy beach. There are two tavernas on the island, both of which rent rooms and are owned by the island s only permanent inhabitants, who speak English. Taverna Mihalis (% ; mains 4-6) is the more laid-back and cheaper of the two places to eat and sleep (doubles 30), while Taverna Pandelis (% ; mains 4-6) at the top end of the beach is a tad more upmarket (doubles 40) and not as traveller oriented as the former. AGATHONISI ΑΓΑΘΟΝΗΣΙ pop 158 You could be forgiven for not knowing the existence of Agathonisi (agh-atho-ni-see). It barely shows up on any traveller s radar. Yet it s a smugly reserved and quiet little getaway isle, where latter-day Robinson Crusoes, serious island hoppers or north south transients might just turn up. Agathonisi is predictably rocky and dry, has minimal settlements and little organised entertainment, yet pulls in a determined procession of travellers who really do want that left-of-centre holiday time out. Accommodation is fine yet simple, food is unfussy yet good quality, and there s little to do other than reflect, read and get ready for that next swim. Getting There & Away Agathonisi is linked to Samos ( 5, one hour) and Patmos ( 7, two hours) about four days a week by the F/B Nissos Kalymnos. A hydrofoil also links the island with Samos and destinations further south on the other three days. Ferry agent Savvas Kamitsis (% ) sells tickets at the harbour prior to departures. Getting Around There is no local transport, and it s a steep and sweaty 1.5km uphill walk from Agios Giorgios to the main settlement of Megalo Horio; somewhat less to Mikro Horio. From AGATHONISI A E G E A N S E A Hohlia Bay To Lipsi (20km); Patmos (30km) Agathonisi Mikro Horio Spilia Agios Georgios Tholos Megalo Horio Gaïdouravlakos 0 2 km 0 1 mile Katholiko Tsangari Poros Kounelonisi Neronisi Church of Agios Nikolaos Tholos (Agios Nikolaos) To Samos (35km) Megalo Horio the island s eastern beach coves are all within a 2km to 3km walk. AGIOS GIORGIOS ΑΓΙΟΣ ΓΕΩΡΓΙΟΣ The village of Agios Giorgios (agh-ios ye-oryi-os) is a languid settlement at the end of a protected fjord-like bay. It has a 100m-long curved, pebbled beach, where you can comfortably swim, but Spilia, 900m southwest around the headland, is quieter; a track around the far side of the bay will take you there. A further 1km walk will bring you to Gaïdouravlakos, a small bay and beach where water from one of the island s few springs meets the sea. Orientation & Information Boats dock at Agios Giorgios, from where roads ascend right to Megalo Horio and left to Mikro Horio. There is no tourist information, post office, bank, ATM or internet access. The police are in a prominently marked white building at the beginning of the Megalo Horio road. Sleeping & Eating Pension Maria Kamitsi (% ; fax ; d 35) In the middle of the waterfront, the 13 comfortable rooms of Maria Kamitsi are the easiest to find and more likely to have vacancies in high season. There is a communal fridge for every three rooms. Domatia Giannis (% ; d/tr 40/50; ai) Above and just behind Glaros Restaurant, these five airy rooms offer the best accommodation on the island. Most have harbour views, are well constructed and enjoy modern furnishings. Glaros Restaurant (% ; mains ) Of the few harbour-side eateries, Glaros is probably the best place to dine. Owners Voula and Giannis are very engaging and serve markakia (feta cheese fingers in vine leaves with a special sauce), among other standard oven-cooked meals, grills and fish dishes, all made from predominantly organic produce. George s Taverna (% ; fish 7-15) Closer to the ferry quay is the taverna of the affable George and his German staff. Food is predictably reasonable, though limited to meat and fish grills and the occasional goat in lemon sauce. AROUND AGATHONISI Megalo Horio is the only village of any size on the island. Somnolent and unhurried for most of the time, it comes to life yearly with religious festivals Agiou Panteleimonos (26 July), Sotiros (6 August) and Panagias (22 August), when, after church services, the village celebrates with abundant food, music and dancing. There are a series of accessible beaches to the east of Megalo Horio: pebbled Tsangari, pebbled Tholos, sandy Poros and pebbled Tholos (Agios Nikolaos), close to the eponymous church. All are within easy walking distance. Further out at the end of the line is the small fishing harbour of Katholiko, with the uninhabited and inaccessible islet of Neronisi just offshore. If you prefer an even quieter stay than at the port, Studios Ageliki (% ; s/d 30/35) in Megalo Horio will serve you very well. The four basic but quite comfortable studios all have stunning views over a small vineyard and down to the port, and come equipped with kitchenette, fridge and bathroom. Eating in the village is unfortunately limited to the reliable Restaurant I Irini (% ; mains 5-6) on the central square, or the Kafeneio Ta 13 Adelfia (mains 3-4) on the south side of the central square, serving budget snacks and meals. DODECANESE

299 Lonely Planet Publications 588 www. DODECANESE Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content.

300 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS Lonely Planet Publications 588 IKARIA & THE FOURNI ISLANDS 589 Northeastern Aegean I s l a n d s Τα Νησιά του Βoρειοανατολικoύ Αιγαίου Diverse, mysterious and achingly beautiful, the islands of the northeastern Aegean offer endless rewards for those intrepid enough to seek them out. Hidden sandy coves, lush mountain waterfalls and ancient sites of divine power are only a few of the attractions in this far-flung archipelago also known for its wild celebration of saints feasts, delicious cuisine and good-natured sybaritism. While exasperating ferry schedules make island-hopping here a challenge, the individual character of each island more than makes up for the effort. Ikaria, with its bizarre rock formations and laid-back, leftist lifestyle is unique, as is Lesvos, with its 11 million olive trees and idyllic mountain villages. Semitropical Samos and pine-scented Thasos boast great beaches, while the almost unvisited Inousses, Fourni and Psara offer total serenity. These lesser-visited islands also have an importance entirely disproportionate to their size. Over one-third of Greece s ship-owning dynasties hail from Chios and nearby Inousses; and 70% of the national firewater, ouzo, comes from Lesvos also famous for its olive oil, rare fossils and the only petrified forest outside the USA. One of Europe s most important ancient spiritual sites lies on distant Samothraki, and only in the villages of southern Chios is the renowned gum-producing mastic tree cultivated. And Little Thasos contains the world s second-whitest marble. HIGHLIGHTS Dining Checking out Mytilini Town s gourmet ouzeries on Lesvos ( p621 ) Chill-out Spot Relaxing on sultry Livadaki on Samos ( p602 ) Adrenaline Rush Mountain biking the mountains of Thasos ( p644 ) Magic Moment Unwinding in the tranquil mediaeval town of Mesta on Chios ( p614 ) Getting Away From it All Lounging in crystal-clear waters at Ikaria s Seychelles ( p595 ) Historical Experience Visiting the ancestral home of Greece s great shipping barons in Inousses ( p616 ) Green Haven Hiking the lush waterfalls and rock pools of Samothraki ( p639 ) POPULATION: 204,161 Thasos AREA : 3842 SQ KM Samothraki Mesta Seychelles Mytilini Town Inousses Livadaki GETTING THERE & AWAY Air Samos, Chios, Lesvos, Limnos and Ikaria have flights to Athens and Thessaloniki. Interisland flights go between Lesvos, Limnos, Samos and Chios. Thasos and Samothraki don t have airports. Ferry Grand wars of one-upmanship between Greece s shipping barons continue to wreak havoc with ferry schedules in the eastern Aegean islands. If you re planning to hit them all, budget extra time and patience, and don t do it in low season, when voyages are reduced. In any season mutually unconnected Samothraki and Thasos are particularly difficult to reach, and require a link from the mainland port of Kavala or else transit via Limnos. The table ( p591 ) outlines scheduled highseason domestic ferries to the islands from mainland ports. These islands are also on various popular interisland routes; the Dodecanese and Mykonos are two popular destinations. Interisland links are covered in the sections on individual islands. There are also international connections with the Turkish Aegean coast. In summer daily boats go between Samos and Kuşadası (for Ephesus), and between Chios and Çeşme. Ferries from Lesvos to Ayvalık run four times weekly. Hydrofoil Regular hydrofoils in summer go between Kavala and Thasos two port towns, and between Alexandroupoli and Samothraki. Hydrofoils also operate from Samos west to Ikaria and Fourni, south towards the Dodecanese, and north towards Chios and Lesvos. IKARIA & THE FOURNI ISLANDS ΙΚΑΡΙΑ & ΟΙ ΦΟΥΡΝΟΙ area 255 sq km It will be a long time before Ikaria is paved over and packaged, and the locals seem to like it that way. Yet with therapeutic hot springs as radioactive as the communist sympathisers once exiled here, this laid-back island of stark ravines, windswept desert trees and shimmering waters lapping on white-pebbled beaches is starting to be discovered. Not to worry: most of the roads are still made of dirt, the bus service is almost nonexistent and no one wakes before noon. Ikaria (pronounced ih-kah-ree-ah) is shrouded in myth. It was named after Icarus, the son of Daedalus, the mythical architect of the Cretan labyrinth of King Minos. When the two tried to escape from Minos prison on wings of wax, Icarus ignored his father s warning, flew too close to the sun and crashed down into the sea, creating Ikaria a rocky reminder of the dangers of overweening ambition, which the dozing locals appear to have taken to heart. More happily, the island was also celebrated by the ancients as the birthplace of Dionysos, the god of wine, fruitfulness and foliage; the poetry of Homer attests that the Ikarians were the first wine-makers. Unfortunately, a phylloxera outbreak in the mid-1960s decimated Ikaria s wine industry, but visitors can still sample the island s signature cloudy red locally. History records little about Ikaria between ancient times, when it was an ally of Athens, and the Byzantine period, when it was a safe haven for pirates and a place of exile. The latter function was reprised during the three-year Greek Civil War that raged following WWII, when the right-wing government exiled some 15,000 suspected communists to Ikaria. Today the comrades from Greece s Communist Party are still in power; travellers seeking refuge from a typical island s package tourism can thank them and their ambivalence to enterprise for Ikaria s timeless air. Ikaria is full of pristine beaches, healing hot springs and bohemian attitude, and much more, too. Panigyria (festivals; the ritual annual celebrations of saints days) are veritable events involving copious amounts of food, drink, music and dance that would do Dionysos proud. In spring Ikaria s meadows are ablaze with wildflowers, their range of colour complemented by an endlessly varied interplay of light and shadow on the island s boulder-strewn scrub-land interior making it a perfect place for photographers and painters. Sculptors, too, are impressed by Ikaria s unusual abundance of different types of stone. NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

301 590 IKARIA & THE FOURNI ISLANDS Northeastern Aegean Islands IKARIA & THE FOURNI ISLANDS Getting There & Away 591 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS E90 Kavala MACEDONIA Skala Prinou To Thessaloniki (200km) Keramoti Thasos (Limenas) Thasos (p640) T H R A C I A N S E A Myrina Kamariotissa Limnos (p631) Moudros Hora Samothraki (p635) THRACE E90 Alexandroupoli Gökçeada (Imvros) Bozcaada (Tenedos) Troy (Truva) Saros Gulf km 0 60 miles FERRY CONNECTIONS TO THE NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS GALLIPOLI E87 Dardanelles Çanakkale E87 E90 T U R K E Y S E A O F M A R M A R A E90 Origin Destination Duration Fare Freq Alexandroupoli Chios 15¼hr weekly Lesvos (Mytilini) 11¼hr weekly Limnos 5hr weekly Samos 18¾hr weekly Samothraki 2hr 11 daily Kavala Chios hr weekly Lesvos (Mytilini) 10hr weekly Limnos 5hr weekly Thasos (Skala Prinou) 1¼hr 3.80 hourly Keramoti Thasos 40min 2 hourly Piraeus Chios 8hr daily Ikaria 9hr 25 daily Lesvos (Mytilini) 12hr daily Limnos 13hr weekly Samos 13hr 26 2 daily Lavrio Limnos 13hr weekly Thessaloniki Chios 18hr weekly Lesvos 13hr weekly Limnos 7hr weekly NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS To Lavrio (260km) Kea Skyros Evia Cape Kafireas Karystos Gavrio To Piraeus (80km) To Piraeus (80km) Giaros Andros Agios Efstratios Syros Andros A E G E A N Tinos S E A Tinos Psara Mykonos Sigri Mesta Pyrgi Emboreios Cape Mastihos Mithymna (Molyvos) Skala Eresou Inousses Chios (p608) Inousses Limnos Town Chios Town To Naxos (70km); Paros (90km) Vatera Plomari Evdilos Lesvos (p618) Çešme Agios Kirykos Edremit Gulf Ayvalîk Mytilini Îzmir Gulf Ula E87 Kušadasî Gulf Bergama Karlovasi Samos Vathy (p598) (Samos) Pythagorio Ikaria Samiopoula (pp592-3) Fourni To Patmos (20km); Islands Kos (90km); IKARIAN SEA (pp592-3) Rhodes (200km) Îzmir E87 To Kušadasî (Turkey) (15km) Getting There & Away AIR In summer there are six flights weekly from Athens ( 50, 50 minutes), most departing after 1pm. There are also twice-weekly flights to Heraklion in Crete, leaving at 8am. Olympic Airlines (% ; lines.com) is in Agios Kirykos; Nas Travel (% ) in Evdilos also sells tickets. There s no airport bus; taxis from Agios Kirykos cost around 10. CAÏQUE A caïque leaves Agios Kirykos at 1pm on Monday, Wednesday and Friday for the nearby Fourni archipelago ( 4). The caïque calls at Fourni town and usually at Hrysomilia or Thymena; all have domatia (a cheap accommodation option) and tavernas. Day-trip excursion boats to Fourni also go from Agios Kirykos and Evdilos ( 20). FERRY Most of Ikaria s ferries are on the Piraeus Samos route. Two weekly ferries go to Piraeus ( 32, nine hours) and three to Samos ( 10, three hours). Five boats weekly serve Fourni ( 8, two hours). Additionally, in summer Kallisti Ferries (% ; operates the high-speed Corsica Express four times weekly between Vathy (Samos), Karlovasi (Samos), Agios Kirykos/Evdilos (Ikaria) and Piraeus (4¼ hours), with a once-weekly diversion to Fourni on Saturday. The Cyclades are served by twice-weekly ferries to Paros ( 14.30) and Naxos ( 12.50), as well as five weekly ferries to Mykonos ( 13.10, 2½ hours) and Syros ( 14.50, 3½ hours). Get tickets at Icariada Holidays (% ; icariada@hol.gr) or G&A Ferries (% ) in Agios Kirykos, or from Nas Travel (% ; fax ) in Evdilos and Armenistis. HYDROFOIL Ikaria s hydrofoil service is usually in July and August only. Common destinations are Piraeus, Samos, and some Dodecannesian and Cycladic islands. Check with Dolihi Tours Travel Agency (% ; fax ) in Agios Kirykos or Nas Travel (% ; fax ) in Evdilos and Armenistis. Getting Around BUS & TAXI Ikaria s bus situation is not auspicious. Theoretically, in summer a bus leaves Evdilos for Agios Kirykos daily at 8am, returning at noon. However, since the bus system exists to transport school children, not tourists, don t depend on it. The whims of individual drivers can determine the schedules from Agios Kirykos to Hristos Rahes (near Moni Evangelistrias), NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

302 592 IKARIA & THE FOURNI ISLANDS Agios Kirykos IKARIA & THE FOURNI ISLANDS Around Agios Kirykos 593 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS IKARIA & THE FOURNI ISLANDS To Mykonos (40km); Syros (90km); Piraeus (240km) Kalamos Cape Papas To Mykonos (40km); Syros (90km); Piraeus (240km) Amalo Agios Isidoros Langada Pezi Karkinagri Armenistis A E G E A N S E A Xylosyrtis and Hrysostomos. If you don t rent a car, share a taxi; from Agios Kirykos to Evdilos costs around 35. CAR & MOTORCYCLE Given Ikaria s public transport limitations, renting a car or scooter is a wise idea if you want to see anything beyond the main towns. Dolihi Tours Travel Agency (% ; fax ) in Agios Kirykos, Nas Travel (% ; fax ) in Evdilos and Armenistis, and Aventura Car & Bike Rental (% ; aventura@otenet.gr) in Evdilos and Armenistis can outfit you. WATER TAXI Water taxis are helpful for nondrivers, or anyone up for a good boat ride. In summer daily water taxis go from Agios Kirykos to Therma and to the sandy beach at Faro (also known as Fanari) on Ikaria s northern tip ( 12 return). Heading the other way, there s also a caïque every Monday, Wednesday and Friday in summer from Agios Kirykos to the fishing village of Karkinagri on the southwestern coast, stopping at Maganitis and its celebrated Nas Agios Dimitrios Profitis Ilias 1033m Manganitis I K A R I A N S E A Perdiki Cape Monokambi Mesahti Kremasti Gialiskari Ploumari Moni Evdilos Karavostamo Theoktistis Kambos Pigi 1042m Therma Maratho Agios Kirykos Glaredes Frandato Arethousa Dafni 1027m Hristos Ikaria Moni Mounte Xylosyrtis Rahes Hrysostomos (Evangelistrias) Kastanies 981m Livadia Seychelles Cape Drakano Faro (Fanari) Seychelles on the way. This boat is the only realistic way for nondrivers to get to this remote corner of Ikaria. AGIOS KIRYKOS ΑΓΙΟΣ ΚHΡΥΚΟΣ pop 1879 Honorary capital of Ikaria, Agios Kirykos is a dependable Greek port with clustered old streets, tasty restaurants, unique nearby attractions and the services that will get you deeper into the island. Radioactive springs and a little nightlife are other pluses, as is Xylosyrtis (4km southwest), the best of several local pebble beaches. Orientation The ferry quay is 150m south of the town centre; to reach the central plateia (square), turn right onto the main road. Leaving the quay, turn left on the central plateia; the bus stop is just west. Excursion boats and hydrofoils dock near Dolihi Tours Travel Agency. Information Alpha Bank, next to Dolihi Tours Travel Agency, and the National Bank of Greece, Thymena Thymena Kesiria Fourni Islands 311m Fourni (Kampos) Kampi 514m Hrysomilia Fourni Makronisi 0 4 km 0 2 miles Cape Alonaki Agios Ioannis Prodromos To Samos (20km); Patmos (60km) Ag Minas Megalos Anthropofas on the plateia, have ATMs. The police station is above Dolihi Tours Travel Agency, and the post office is left of the plateia. Dolihi Tours Travel Agency (% ; fax ) Helpful agency that can arrange accommodation; located below the police station. Icariada Holidays (% ; icariada@hol.gr) Helpful staff sell ferry and plane tickets, and can arrange accommodation in Fourni. On the waterfront. Police (% ) Port police (% ) Tourist police (% ) Sights & Activities Opposite the police station are the radioactive springs (admission 5; h7am-2.30pm & 5-9pm Jun-Oct). Their salutary effects include curing arthritis and infertility. Agios Kirykos small archaeological museum (% ; admission free; h10am-3pm Tue & Wed, Fri-Sun Jul & Aug) boasts local finds, highlighting the large, well-preserved stele (500 BC) depicting a seated mother and family. The signposted museum is near the hospital Sleeping Hotel Akti (% ; fax ; s/d 35/50; a) A good budget choice, the Akti has small but attractive rooms with fridge, TV and mosquito netting, with a nice location on the rocks overlooking the sea and port, and friendly, English-speaking owners. Follow the steps to the right of Alpha Bank. Hotel Kastro (% ; /hotels/kastro.asp; d 50; as) This well-appointed hotel has handsome rooms with balconies and all mod cons. The bar is complemented by an appealing rooftop pool. At the top of the stairs leading from Dolihi Tours Travel Agency, go left 20m to the hotel. Eating & Drinking Taverna Klimataria (% ; mains 6-9;hyearround) This back-street taverna, strong on grilled meats, has a lovely summer courtyard. Restaurant Dedalos (% ; mains 7-10) This busy eatery on the central plateia is known for its tasty fresh fish. AROUND AGIOS KIRYKOS Some 2km northeast of town are the popular hot springs of Therma (% ; admission 5; h7am-2.30pm & 5-9pm Jun-Oct), believed to cure many ailments. Along with the airport, Ikaria s eastern tip boasts the 2km-long Faro, 10km north along the coast road, and the 3rd-century BC fortress of Drakanos (currently being excavated), which sponsored religious rites dedicated to Eilythia, a minor pregnancy-promoting deity. While a few tavernas hug the beach, it remains blissfully quiet compared to the major northwest-coast beaches. Just up from it, on the main access road, the friendly Greek- Australian Evon Plakidis at Rooms Evon (% ; ste ) rents clean, high-quality suites, some with spiral stairs, and all with kitchenettes. The studios can hold up to six people. There s also internet access for guests. EVDILOS ΕΥΔΗΛΟΣ pop 461 Evdilos, the island s second port, is 41km northwest of Agios Kirykos. The road connecting them is Ikaria s main road. If you don t have a car, a taxi costs around 35 for the memorable trip, which takes in high mountain ridges, striking sea views and slateroof villages. Evdilos itself is sleepy, though NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

303 594 IKARIA & THE FOURNI ISLANDS West of Evdilos Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at IKARIA & THE FOURNI ISLANDS West of Evdilos 595 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS RELIGIOUS REVELRY ON THE ISLAND OF WINE Pagan god Dionysos may no longer reign over the vineyards of Ikaria, but his legacy lives on in Christianised form in the summertime panigyria ( festivals; all-night celebrations held on saints days across the island). There s no better way to dive headfirst into Greek island culture than drinking, dancing and feasting in honour of a village s patron saint. Bring your wallet, however: panigyria are important fundraisers for the local community. Use this fact to explain any overindulgences as well-intended philanthropy. Western Ikaria panigyria take place on the following dates: Kambos 5 May Agios Isidoros 14 May Armenistis 40 days after Orthodox Easter Pezi 14 May Agios Kirykos & Ikarian Independence Day 17 July Hristos Rahes & Dafne 6 August Langada 15 August Evdilos August Agios Sofia 17 September its narrow streets are chronically congested with cars, and fishing is strong. It also has a few stately old houses and winding streets (follow Kalliopis Katsouli, the cobbled street leading uphill from the waterfront square). Walk 100m uphill from the plateia, then take the path down past the last house on the left to reach the local beach. Information The waterfront s eastern and western ends have ATMs. The latter also hosts the ticket agencies for NEL Lines (% ) and Hellas Ferries (% ). Aventura (% ), in a side street off the central waterfront, rents cars and bikes, sells tickets and offers information. Sleeping Hotel Atheras (% ; s/d 52/62; as) There s an almost Cycladic feel to the Atheras, marked by bright white décor contrasting with the blue Aegean beyond. This friendly and modern hotel also has a pool bar. Find it in the backstreets, about 200m from the port. Kerame Studios (% ; ame.gr; studio/apt from 70; as) These diverse studios, apartments and rooms 1km before Evdilos have close beach access. Prices are as variable as the quarters, which include simple but well-maintained studios and apartments for four people, with separate kitchen. Rooms have spacious decks with good views; the onsite restaurant is built into a windmill. Hotel Evdoxia (% ; d 70; a) Although it s a bit of a climb, this B-class hotel has attractive modern rooms and many facilities, like a minimarket, laundry service, currency exchange and traditional restaurant. If you reserve in advance for several days, pick-up can be arranged free from the ferry. Eating Tsakonitis (% ; Evdilou; mezedhes ) This ouzerie (place that serves ouzo and light snacks) down on the water is a local favourite known for its home-made Greek yogurt. To Steki (% ; Evdilou; mains 5-7) This harbour-side dining hang-out (as its name implies in Greek) is a dependable yearround option for taverna fare, such as cheese pies and soufiko (an Ikarian speciality, like a Greek ratatouille). WEST OF EVDILOS Kambos Κάμπος pop 94 Little Kambos, 3km west of Evdilos, was once mighty Oinoe (derived from the Greek word for wine), Ikaria s capital. Traces of this ancient glory don t remain, though the village does have ruins of a Byzantine palace, Ikaria s oldest church and a small museum. Kambos other main attractions are its sand-and-pebble beach and scenic hill-walking opportunities. INFORMATION If he s not cooking for the guests at his little hotel, charismatic local Vasilis Kambouris can be found at his village shop (it s on the right as you arrive from Evdilos), which also hosts Kambos post box and a telephone. Vasilis, who has been assisting travellers for over 30 years, can help with anything you need in Kambos, and in Ikaria in general. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES On the right-hand side when entering Kambos from Evdilos stand the modest ruins of a Byzantine palace. Kambos centre has a small museum (% ; admission free), with Neolithic tools, geometric vases, classical sculpture fragments, figurines and ivory trinkets. If it s not open, ask Vasilis Kambouris. Adjacent stands Ikaria s oldest surviving church, the 12th-century Byzantine Agia Irini. As is common in Greece, it was built on the site of an earlier church, in this case a 4th-century basilica: some columns come from this original. Alas, Agia Irini s frescoes remain covered with whitewash because of no funds to pay for its removal. SLEEPING & EATING orooms Dionysos (% ; dionisos@hol.gr; d 35) The undisputed heavyweight champ of Ikarian tourism, ebullient Vasilis Kambouris, runs this wonderful pension with his Australian wife Dimitra and brother Yiannis. The fact that almost 50% of his guests are return visitors says it all about this welcoming little hotel with simple but well-maintained rooms and a lovely shaded patio overlooking MOUNTAIN WALKS & MONKS SKULLS nearby Kambos. Big breakfasts are the jovial Vasilis hallmark; more intangibly, there is the sense of community and openness he fosters by bringing together people from all countries (a few unexpected marriages have even come from walking in and out of Rooms Dionysos!), who cherish the relaxed atmosphere and unique, friendly service. To find it, ask at Vasilis village shop or look out for the blue-painted trees. Balcony (% ; d/tr 35/50) This familyfriendly collection of six apartments requires a hike to get to, but rewards visitors with fantastic views. Classic wrought-iron furniture distinguishes the studios, which have a kitchen and a loft-sleeping area with twin mattresses. French-style doors lead to a private sitting area with coastal views. Pashalia (% ; mains 6-8) A familyrun ouzerie with tradition, the Pashalia is a great place to meet engaging local characters and try delectable home-made mezedhes (appetisers), such as wild mushrooms, fresh mountain asparagus and goats cheese. Kambos to the Southwest Coast From Kambos, two roads head west: the main road, which hugs the northern coast until the resort of Armenistis, and then becomes a secondary road for the duration of the trip down the northwestern coast; and another secondary road, mostly dirt but doable with a good car, which ribbons slightly southwest through the stunning moonscapes of central Ikaria to the remote coastal village of Karkinagri. The latter is ideal for those who want to get off the beaten track, while the former is the obvious choice for beach lovers. The southwest coast road through central Ikaria brings you to Moni Theoktistis and the tiny Chapel of Theoskepasti (see boxed text, With its solitude and wild nature, Ikaria is perfect for mountain walks. One that is invigorating, but not too hard on the bones, is the one-day circular walk along dirt roads from Kambos south through the village of Dafni, the remains of the 10th-century Byzantine Castle of Koskinas, and the villages of Frandato and Maratho. When you reach the village of Pigi, keep an eye out for the Frandato sign; continue past it to reach the unusual little Byzantine Chapel of Theoskepasti, tucked into overhanging granite. You have to clamber upwards to get to it, and duck to get inside. Provided the old monks skulls on display don t creep you out, the chapel makes for a wonderfully peaceful visit and is near Moni Theoktistis, some of whose frescoes date from The kindly Maria runs the nearby kafeneio (coffee house), where you can stop in for a coffee or juice and chat with the locals. NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

304 596 IKARIA & THE FOURNI ISLANDS West of Evdilos Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at IKARIA & THE FOURNI ISLANDS Fourni Islands 597 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS p595 ), just northwest of the village of Pigi. From Pigi, continue south to Maratho, then follow the road west to reach Moni Mounte, also known as Moni Evangelistrias. Some 500m after it, on a duck pond with giant goldfish and croaking frogs, is the very unusual I Kantina tou Papa (% ; mezedhes 3-5;h11am- 9pm), a retro-fitted campervan, founded and operated by a priest, that serves mezedhes like bourekaki (cheese pies), fried zucchini flowers, and refreshing sweets made of cherry and lemon. You re seated at slate tables in the shade to eat and drink; the pond and its colourful inhabitants are a favourite with kids. After the Kantina, the road forks either northwest or southwest: follow the signs and either will take you to Hristos Rahes, an eclectic village in the hills that is a good base for local hiking and was once known for its late-night shopping. Along with various traditional products, you can buy a useful walking map called The Round of Rahes on Foot ( 3) at most tourist shops and markets. After Hristos Rahes, follow the road south through rustic Profitis Ilias. Keep heading south when the road forks; after 1km take the left towards Pezi. The landscape now becomes even more rugged and extreme, with windwhipped thick green trees clinging to bleak boulders, and rows of old agriculturalists stone walls snaking across the terrain. It is a bouncy, dusty ride, but worth it for the views of the hard interior and, after you turn left at Kalamos, of the sea far below. The road finally terminates in the tiny and isolated fishing village of Karkinagri, which has a few tavernas, rooms and a nearby beach. In summer Karkinagri also has a thriceweekly boat service to Agios Kirykos. This highly recommended voyage brings you along Ikaria s rugged and partially inaccessible southern coast. The boat calls in at the village of Manganitis; nearby is a gorgeous, secluded stretch of white pebbles and crystal-clear waters the appropriately named Seychelles tucked within a protected cove and flanked by a cave. SLEEPING & EATING Hotel Raches (% ; Hristos Rahes; s/d 25/35) Upstairs from Taverna Katoi these simple but clean and inexpensive domatia have balconies with views, a communal area and friendly owners no wonder it s fully booked in high season. Kaza Papas (% ; Karkinagri; d/apt 40/50;a) These simple but new air-conditioned domatia and apartments in Karkinagri have great views of the sea. Facing the water, you can turn right behind the tavernas and walk 100m along the waterfront to reach them, though it s better to call in advance. Taverna Katoi (% ; Hristos Rahes; mains 6-8) Hopefully the talk of this Hristos Rahes taverna not reopening will be proven false, as it s a wonderful, eclectic place filled with unusual bric-a-brac and with a relaxing garden. It also serves great Ikarian fare and local wine. O Karakas (% ; Karkinagri; mains 5-9) On a bamboo-roofed patio by the sea, this excellent family-run taverna does good fresh fish and salads. Especially tasty and unique is the Ikarian vegetable stew speciality, soufiko. Armenistis to Nas Αρμενιστής προς Να Armenistis, 15km west of Evdilos, is Ikaria s humble version of a resort. It boasts two long, sandy beaches separated by a narrow headland, a fishing harbour and a web of hilly streets to explore, but nothing particularly traditional. Moderate nightlife livens up the town in summer, but it s still light years away from the typical Greek island resort. Dolihi Tours (% ; fax ), by the sea, organises walking tours and jeep safaris. Aventura (% ), by the patisserie before the bridge, rents cars and sells tickets. Just 500m east of Armenistis is Livadia, which will please surfers with its strong waves in summer strong enough indeed to warrant a lifeguard service. Beyond Livadia are two other popular beaches, Mesahti and Gialiskari. From Armenistis heading west, a road continues 3.5km to the pebbled beach of Nas, located far below the road and the handful of tavernas gathered nearby. The beach, which has an impressive location at the mouth of a forested river and behind the remnants of an ancient Temple of Artemis, is nudist friendly. Nas itself has become a bit trendy, in a subdued way, and preserving this state of affairs has led the Greek police to vigorously break up impromptu beach hovels belonging to the hapless hippies the place attracts. They usually retreat into the river forest to camp, and are in any case benevolent, more so than the pushy Athenian anarchists who ruin the mood by slaughtering the occasional goat, perhaps as the ancient worshippers at the nearby Temple of Artemis once did. SLEEPING Rooms Fotinos (% ; d 40; hmay-oct; a) This family-run pension in Armenistis is 150m above the curving beach on which it looks down from the west. It has only seven rooms, all clean and modern, with a lovely, relaxing garden, and the owners are friendly and helpful. Gallini (% ; d 50; hmay-oct) A good choice with fine views of the coast, these 12 domatia hover above Armenistis. They are small but beautifully furnished, with walls of inset stone and big windows. Studios are larger, with slanting, loft-style ceilings and kitchenettes. Atsachas Rooms (%/fax ; d 50) Right on Livadia, the Atsachas has clean, well-furnished rooms, some with sophisticated kitchens. Most have breezy, seaview balconies. The café spills down to the lovely garden: the restaurant has also won plaudits. Villa Dimitri (%/fax ; 2-person studios & apt with private patio 50-65; hmar- Oct; a) This assortment of separate, secluded apartments set on a cliff amid colourful flowers and plants has a Cycladic feel. It s 800m west of Armenistis and not somewhere you just show up: advance bookings, for a minimum of one week, are essential. Panorama (% ; studios 80) This collection of five self-catering studios is located up a steep driveway right before the village. Rooms fit up to four people and feature handsome combinations of wood and marble, all with new fixtures and good sea views. EATING Pashalia Taverna (% ; Armenistis; mains from 5; hjun-nov) Meat dishes like katsikaki (kid goat) or veal in a clay pot are the speciality here, the first taverna along the Armenistis harbour road. Kelari (% ; Gialiskari; mains 6-13) Taking the fish straight off the boat, Kelari serves the best seafood available at this laid-back beach east of Armenistis. Taverna Nas (% ; Nas; mains 6-10) This simple taverna set on a high bluff over Nas beach has superb views of the coast and western sea at sunset. Although a bit touristy, it serves hearty portions of Greek standbys and fresh fish. FOURNI ISLANDS ΟΙ ΦΟΥΡΝΟΙ pop 1469 The little archipelago of Fourni, once upon a time a pirate s lair, lies peacefully between Ikaria and Samos. With only three villages dotting an otherwise rugged and hilly landscape, Fourni is now a lair for travellers seeking total peace. The islands far-flung, secluded beaches are immaculate, and its fishing fleet s reputation for supplying the best seafood is upheld as far away as Athens. Abundant in long sunsets and rocky old pirates coves, Fourni will appeal to artistic types, hikers and swimmers. The islands port, Fourni (also called Kambos), has most of its accommodation, as well as a central beach and other close-by beaches. The much smaller Hrysomilia, 10km north, is connected to it by Fourni s only road. In the very south, the monastery of Agios Ioannis Prodromos gazes over several captivating beaches. Given its relative isolation, Fourni is surprisingly well served. It has a doctor (% ), police (% ) and port police (% ). The main road runs perpendicular with the water and continues 100m to the plateia; along it resides a National Bank of Greece with ATM, a post office, a pharmacy (% ) and, adjacent to the latter, an internet café (per hr 3; h11am-midnight). Accommodation can be found through Ikarian travel agencies or through Maria Kalfountzou at Fournoi Island Tours (% ), located just up from the waterfront on the road to the plateia. There are a few signposted domatia as well, such as the well-maintained Nectaria s Studios (% ; d/tr 35/45) on the habour s far side. Fourni s exemplary fish tavernas are clustered along the waterfront; try the local speciality, grilled lobster at Psarotaverna O Miltos (% ; mains from 8). For heavier fare, and to meet some animated local characters, follow the wafting Greek music and smell of roasting meat up to the main plateia and the Taverna Kali Kardia (% ; mains ) on the left. Getting There & Away FERRY Fourni lies on the Piraeus Samos ferry route. Besides daily boats to Ikaria ( 3.20, NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

305 598 SAMOS Getting There & Away SAMOS Getting Around 599 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS 40 minutes), five boats go weekly to Samos ( 8, two hours). HYDROFOIL Like Ikaria, Fourni s hydrofoils operate in summer only; check with a local travel agency. Getting Around Two weekly caïques serve Hrysomilia and three go to Thymena, year-round, departing at 7.30am. Group day trips to pristine, but far-flung Fourni beaches cost 15 per person; book through Fournoi Island Tours (% ). SAMOS ΣΑΜΟΣ pop 32,814 / area 477 sq km Lush forested mountains, sweet local wine, sacred ancient sites and almost tropical beaches all conspire to make Samos an immensely appealing island getaway. Since it s the busy ferry hub of the eastern Aegean islands and the jumping-off point for the nearby Turkish coastal resort of Kuşadası, however, visitors all too often just pass through without sampling the delights of what is, in fact, one of Greece s very best islands. While high summer brings a plethora of package tourists to resorts around the pretty port towns of Vathy and Pythagorio, there is space aplenty for independent travellers seeking to get away from it all, too. Hiking SAMOS To Fourni (30km); Ikaria (40km); Piraeus (300km) Cape Kanthario Drakeï Kosmadeï Kastanea Kallithea Marathokampos Mt Kerkis (1440m) Cape Agios Domenikos Potami Votsalakia (Kampos) Psili Ammos A E G E A N Ormos Marathokampou Bay of Marathokampos S E A Samiopoula Agios Konstantinos the interior brings one into rolling mountains redolent of pine, wildflowers and jasmine, dotted by welcoming traditional villages. Samos long and curving coastline is crowned by cliff-top churches offering stunning views of secret coves where temperate turquoise waters gently lap. Samos also boasts a distinguished history. Its identity as the legendary birthplace of Hera, wife of Zeus, is attested by the ruins of the sanctuary in her honour, the Ireon one of several architectural wonders on the island where both the great mathematician Pythagoras and the hedonistic father of atomic theory, the 4th-century BC philosopher Epicurus were born. The most illustrious Samian of modern times, Themistoklis Sofoulis ( ), was a respected prime minister and a pioneer of Greek archaeology. Getting There & Away AIR Olympic Airlines ( Vathy (% ; cnr Kanari & Smyrnis); Pythagorio (% ; Lykourgou Logotheti) has four flights daily from Samos to Athens ( 73, 40 minutes) and two flights weekly to Thessaloniki ( 149, one hour). The airport is 4km west of Pythagorio. Platanaki Lemonaki & Kondakeïka Avlakia Tsamadou Karlovasi Stavrinides es Valiondates Vourliotes Ydhrousa Kokkari Manolates Church of Moni Profitis Ilias Mt Ampelos Panagias (1140m) Vrondianis Platanos Samos Pandhrosos Mytilinii Mavratzeï Kampos To Chios (80km) Pyrgos Koumaradeï Hora Skoureïka The Pefkos Moni Megalis Ireon Panagias Pagondas Tigani Bay Cape Kotsikas Vathy Bay Evpalinos Tunnel Cape Asprokavos To Patmos (20km); Leros (30km); Ikaria (40km); Kalymnos (60km) Pythagorio 0 4 km 0 2 miles Livadaki Mykale Straits To Kušadasî (Turkey) (15km) To Rhodes (210km) Agia Cape Paraskevi Moni Praso Zoödohos Kamara Pigis Myrtia Vathy (Samos) Kervelis Cape Paleokastro Katsouni Psili Glykoriza Ammos Posidonio Klima To Kušadasî (Turkey) (15km) T U R K E Y FERRY Domestic With its two northern ports of Vathy (Samos) and Karlovasi, and Pythagorio port on the southern coast, Samos is the eastern Aegean s maritime hub. Ferries link it with the Dodecanese and Cyclades, and with the other Northeastern Aegean Islands. The exceptionally helpful ITSA Travel (% ; elsamos.com; Themistokleous Sofouli), directly opposite the ferry terminal in Vathy (Samos), offers free luggage storage without a catch. Considering that ITSA boss Dimitris Sarlas owns four ferries operating from Samos, it s no surprise that it has the most up-to-date information on schedule changes. Two ferries go daily to Piraeus ( 34, 13 hours), three to Ikaria ( 10, three hours). Five boats go weekly to Fourni ( 8, two hours), four weekly to Chios ( 12, four hours), and two weekly to Lesvos ( 17, 11 hours), Limnos ( 27.50, 11 hours) and Alexandroupoli ( 32, 16 hours). Three ferries a week go to Naxos ( 21, seven hours) and Paros ( 18.50, eight hours). Five weekly ferries serve Mykonos ( 25, six hours). Three ferries weekly sail to Patmos ( 8, 2½ hours), four to Leros ( 7, 3½ hours) and Kalymnos ( 10, four hours), and one to Kos ( 15, 5½ hours) and Rhodes ( 30, nine hours). In summer Kallisti Ferries (% ; run the high-speed Corsica Express five times weekly between Vathy (Samos) and Piraeus ( 49, 6¾ hours) via Ikaria. International In summer two ferries go daily from Vathy (Samos) to Kuşadası (for Ephesus) in Turkey. The Samos Star leaves at 8.30am, while a Turkish-flagged vessel departs at 5pm. From Pythagorio there is a once-weekly boat to Kuşadası. In low season there are two ferries weekly. Tickets cost around 47 open return and 37 one way (plus 10 port taxes). Daily excursions are also available from May through October; the Sunday trip is especially popular; for an extra 25, you can also see Ephesus. Again, ITSA Travel (% ; Themistokleous Sofouli), opposite the ferry terminal in Vathy (Samos), is the place to book. The ticket office will take your passport in advance for port formalities, though Turkish visas, where required, are issued once in Turkey. Visas are not required for day trips. HYDROFOIL In summer hydrofoils link Pythagorio twice daily with Patmos ( 15, one hour), Leros ( 16, two hours), Kos ( 25.50, 3½ hours) and Kalymnos ( 21, 2½ hours). From Vathy (Samos) hydrofoils sail daily to Lipsi ( 15, 1½ hours), once a week to Agathonisi ( 11, 35 minutes) and twice weekly to Fourni ( 14, 50 minutes). Also from Vathy (Samos) one hydrofoil weekly serves Patmos ( 20, one hour), Kos ( 27), Leros ( 24) and Paros ( 32, four hours). Schedules are fluid, so double-check with the tourist office (% ) or the port police (% ) in Pythagorio. In Vathy (Samos), consult ITSA Travel (% ; Themistokleous Sofouli). Getting Around TO/FROM THE AIRPORT There s no airport shuttle bus; a taxi from Vathy (Samos) costs 12. Alternatively, take a local bus to Pythagorio, from where a taxi to the airport costs 5. BUS From Vathy (Samos) bus station (% ; Ioannou Lekati) there are six buses daily on weekdays to Kokkari ( 1.30, 20 minutes), eight to Pythagorio ( 1.50, 25 minutes), seven to Agios Konstantinos ( 1.90, 40 minutes) and Karlovasi (via the north coast; 3.30, one hour), and five to the Ireon ( 2, 25 minutes) and Mytilini ( 1.20, 20 minutes). In addition, from Pythagorio five buses go daily to the Ireon ( 1.20, 15 minutes) and four to Mytilini ( 1.20, 20 minutes). Buy tickets on the bus. Services are reduced on Saturday and nonexistent on Sunday. CAR & MOTORCYCLE The best rates on car, jeep and motorcycle rental are offered at Pegasus Rent a Car (% , ; pegasussamos@hotmail.com; Themistoklis Sofouli 5), directly opposite the port entrance and next to ITSA Travel. The big international car-rental outlets, like Hertz (% ; Lykourgou Logotheti 77) and Europcar (% ; Lykourgou Logotheti 65), tend to be more expensive and less understanding of extra sand in the car than Pegasus Dutch manager Carolina, who gladly hands out free advice, maps and sun hats to renters. EXCURSION BOAT In summer excursion boats travel four times weekly from Pythagorio to the monasteries of St John in Hora on Patmos (return 35), leaving at 8am. Daily excursion boats go from Pythagorio to the islet of Samiopoula NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

306 600 SAMOS Vathy (Samos) Book accommodation online at SAMOS Vathy (Samos) 601 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS (including lunch 25), and a round-island boat tour begins from Pythagorio s harbour twice weekly ( 40). TA X I The taxi rank (% ) in Vathy (Samos) is by the National Bank of Greece. In Pythagorio the taxi rank (% ) is on the waterfront at Lykourgou Logotheti. VATHY (SAMOS) ΒΑΘΥ (ΣΑΜΟΣ) pop 2025 Lively Vathy (also called Samos) is the island s capital, and lies in the fold of a deep bay on the northeast coast. Its historic quarter of Ano Vathy features red-tiled 19th-century hill-side houses, while a fine archaeological museum houses ancient Samian treasures. Like most Greek port towns, Vathy s curving waterfront is lined with bars, cafés and restaurants; however, more atmospheric and equally lively nightspots cling to the town s northeastern cliff side, just before the Pythagoras Hotel. A bit further on past the hotel are two pebble beaches, the most popular being Gagou (about 1km north of the town centre). Orientation Facing inland from the ferry terminal, turn right to reach the central square of Pythagorou on the waterfront, recognisable by its four palm trees and lion statue. A little further along, and a block inland, are the leafy municipal gardens. The waterfront road is named after local son and statesman Themistoklis Sofouli. The bus station is on Ioannou Lekati. Information ATMs available include Commercial Bank, on Pythagorou s east side, and the National Bank of Greece, on the waterfront; several others are located there, too. Diavlos NetCafe (% ; Themistokeous Sofouli 160; per hr 4; h8.30am-11.30pm) Offers internet access. Municipal tourist office (% ) This summer-only office north of Pythagorou in a little side street can find accommodation. Port police (% ) North of the quay, one block back from the waterfront. Post office (Smyrnis) Four blocks from the waterfront. Pythagoras Hotel (% ; Kallistratou 12; per hr 3) Offers internet access. Samos General Hospital (% ) Up the hill from the port, opposite the Pythagoras Hotel. Tourist police (% ; Themistokleous Sofouli 129) On the waterfront s south side. Sights Along with the old quarter of Ano Vathy, the relaxing municipal gardens, and Roditzes and Gagou es, the town s main attraction is its archaeological museum (% ; adult/student 3/2, free admission Sun; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun, last entry 2.45pm), one of the best in the islands. Exhibits attest to the greatness of Samos during the rule of Polycrates (6th century BC), the most famous being the gargantuan (5.5m) kouros (male statue of the Archaic period), plucked from the Ireon (Sanctuary of Hera; p605 ) near Pythagorio and the largest standing kouros ever produced. Many other statues, most also from the Ireon, as well as bronze sculptures, stelae and pottery, round out the collection. Sleeping Pension Dreams (% ; Areos 9; d with/without balcony 30/25; a) This small but central pension overlooks the harbour from a hill top. Pride of place goes to the expansive rooftop studio; if that s taken, try for a balcony room with garden views. The friendly owner speaks a bevy of languages. opythagoras Hotel (% , ; Kallistratou 12; s/d 20/35;hFeb-Nov;pi) This friendly budget hotel run by Stelios Mihalakis and family offers the best of both worlds: the attentive service and serenity of a hotel, and the freewheeling sociability of a hostel. Many rooms have sea-facing balconies. Meet like-minded independent travellers for a drink on the outdoor terrace, and enjoy good inexpensive home-cooked meals. It also has a shop and internet access, and a pebble beach just below. To arrange free pick-up from the ferry or bus station, ring Stelios, or inquire at ITSA Travel, opposite the port. Hotel Aeolis (% ; Themistokleous Sofouli 33; s/d incl breakfast 45/60; as) This grandiose and very central waterfront hotel that attracts a slick Greek crowd features two pools and a Jacuzzi, as well as a taverna and a frequently packed bar below. Rooms are ample and modern, though with less of a personal touch than at the smaller places in town. Light sleepers should factor in the nocturnal street noise from the café strip below. VATHY (SAMOS) Kallistratou Roditzes Kefalopoulou 12 Lykourgou Ippokratous To Gagou (200m) Kodrou 21 6 Avgoustou 5 Lras Egeos 28 Oktovriou 20 Asklipiadou Themistokleous Koundourioti INFORMATION Commercial Bank... 1 C3 Diavlos NetCafe... 2 C5 Municipal Tourist Office... 3 C3 National Bank of Greece... 4 C3 Port Police... 5 A2 Post Office... 6 D4 Pythagoras Hotel...(see 14) Samos General Hospital... 7 A1 Tourist Police... 8 C5 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Archaeological Museum... 9 D4 Roman Catholic Church B3 SLEEPING Hotel Aeolis B3 Ino Village Hotel A1 Pension Dreams C2 Pythagoras Hotel A1 EATING Elea Restaurant...(see 12) Garden C3 DRINKING Ble A2 Escape Music Bar A1 Selini A2 TRANSPORT Bus Station C5 By Ship Travel A3 Ferry Terminal A3 ITSA Travel A2 Olympic Airlines D4 Pegasus Rent a Car A2 Taxi Rank C Noemvriou Timotheou Lykourgou Manolis Kalomitis Logotheti Themistokleous Sofouli Vathy Bay 11 Sokratous Stamatiadi Ino Village Hotel (% ; Kalami; s/d/tr incl breakfast from 59/74/100;pais) With its central courtyard pool flanked by ivy-strewn, balconied white buildings, Ino Village is a citadel of subdued elegance. While this miniresort is sometimes booked out by tour groups, it never endangers the stylish quietude that also draws discerning independent travellers. The hotel s Elea Restaurant is patronised by nonguests also. Eating Kotopoula (% ; Vlamaris; mezedhes around 4, mains around 6) While tourists have taken to this little restaurant in the backstreets, it remains a local favourite known for its spit-roasted Areos Smyrnis 25 Martiou Nikolaou To Pythagorio (14km) 3 1 Pythagorou m miles Municipal Gardens Kapetan Katavani Smyrnis Pl lroon Kanari 23 9 Ioannou Lekati Sahtouri Emmanouil 6 Mihalis Svoronou Sofouli To Kotopoula Restaurant (800m) To Ano Vathy (600m) NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

307 602 SAMOS Vathy (Samos) SAMOS Pythagorio 603 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS HIDDEN BEACHES OF EASTERN SAMOS Despite being only a few kilometres from Samos capital, the jagged eastern coast is rarely visited by tourists, making it perfect for adventurous, off-roading swimmers and sun worshippers. The sultry beaches here are frequented only by locals and the tiny coves along the coast by very few. A regular car or motorcycle will suffice for most of this route, though the complete day-tour requires a 4WD. Set your odometer at Vathy (Samos) port and drive northwards, passing the Pythagoras Hotel on your left. At the 2.5km mark a left-hand dirt road leads down to a sheltered cove. At the 4.4km mark are other accessible, though little visited coves. The best secret beach, however, an aquamarine, sandy cove, appears far down below at the 5.2km mark; to see it, pull over by the miniature model church standing alongside the road. Park here and walk backwards 500m, or drive back the same distance to the gated church facility reading (in Greek letters) Paidikes Kataskinoseis Ieras Mitropoleos Samou kai Ikarias. Park (without blocking the gate) and go down the grassy path through the bamboo about 200m to find your own private beach heaven. Continuing along the coast, a signposted road at the 6.7km mark veers inland to the Church of Profitis Ilias (another 3km); it offers stunning views of Vathy (Samos) and the coast and islets sprawled below. Continuing north on the main road, less than 1km after the Profitis Ilias turn-off, is a signposted dirt road leading, after another 2.6km, to Livadaki. Here, tropical azure waters lap up against soft sand in a long sheltered cove with facing islets. Only Greeks in the know come to Livadaki, which has a beach bar with colourful and comfy soft chairs and music day and night. The water is warm and very shallow for a long way out, and Livadaki s hedonistic yet mellow summer beach parties easily spill into it. Back at the turn-off for Livadaki, continue east 5km to the fishing hamlet of Agia Paraskevi, which has a shady pebble beach and multicoloured boats moored offshore. This beach, popular with Greek families, also has a meat-and-seafood taverna, Restaurant Aquarius (% ; Agia Paraskevi; mains 5-8). After this, the road worsens on a white-knuckle course along the cliff through thick countryside. There are magnificent sea views and occasional unmarked revelations, like the cryptic ruins of the Church of Agios Haralambos, and the Chapel of Agios Antonios. After 3km of olive groves, you ll reach the paved road coming west from Kamara village. Follow the signs left to the enormous Moni Zoödohou Pigis (% ; h10am-1pm & 6-8pm Sat-Thu), which has great coastal views and is worth visiting if open. From the Kamara turn-off, the road downwards leads after 1.7km to the lovely Myrtia, another long pebbled stretch visited mainly by local Greeks. To continue down the coast, drive from Myrtia inland towards Kamara for 2.2km, and then turn left on a narrow, paved shortcut 3.5km; at the intersection, turn left and then left again at the stop sign 2.1km further on, arriving after another 2km at the appealing Kerveli. From here it s another 3km to Platanaki. Some 6km further is Posidonio, where the southeastern coast ends with the pebbled cove at Klima, which has gentle waters, some cafés and great views of Turkey opposite. To do it all in one day, fill up on petrol in advance, start early and be prepared for some adventurous driving. As elsewhere in Greece, swimmers should avoid rocky outcroppings where potentially hostile, hard-biting eels lurk, and look out for sea urchins. For comprehensive, free planning assistance, ask for Aussie Mick Daly, at ITSA Travel (% ; Themistokleous Sofouli) in Vathy (Samos). chicken. Follow Ioannou Lekati inland for 800m and look for it on the left, in the shade of a grand plane tree. Garden (% ; Manolis Kalomiris; mains 4-9) Greek specialities stand out at this soothing spot off Lykourgou Logotheti. The aptly named restaurant is located on a tree-filled outdoor terrace within a garden. oelea Restaurant (% ; Kalami; mains from 8-10) Located on the terrace of the Ino Village Hotel, with contemplative views over Vathy and its harbour below, the Elea serves invigorated Greek cuisine and international dishes as well, while doing fine renditions of old classics like swordfish souvlaki (cubes of meat on skewers). Samian wines are well represented. Beware dedicated barman Dimitrios when he tries to whip you up one of his patented shots of tequila with lemon and ground coffee. Drinking Nightlife in Vathy (Samos) has a decidedly Greek flavour to it, especially when compared to the more Europeanised Pythagorio and the beach resorts. While the bulk of the bars congregate along the waterfront in the town centre, just as busy and more aesthetically pleasing are the hill-side bars over the water on Kefalopoulou, between La Calma restaurant and Pythagoras Hotel. These bars, which include Escape Music Bar (Kefalopoulou), Ble (Blue; Kefalopoulou) and Selini (Kefalopoulou), are distinguished not by their music (invariably, modern pop) but by their outside lighting, which shines on the gently rippling water below to dazzling, hypnotic effect. PYTHAGORIO ΠΥΘΑΓΟΡΕΙΟ pop 1327 Located on the sunny southeastern coast and the place of the island s ancient capital, World Heritage listed Pythagorio boasts the bulk of Samos archaeological sites. Its yachtlined harbour flanked by touristy restaurants may make it seem twee, but Pythagorio is a place of real interest, for its sites, its flowering backstreets and for the fine nearby beaches. All boats travelling south of Samos dock at Pythagorio, from where day trips also depart to Samiopoula islet. Orientation From the ferry quay, turn right and follow the waterfront to the main street, Lykourgou Logotheti, a turn-off to the left. Most services are here. The central square ( Irinis) is further along the waterfront. The bus stop is on the south side of Lykourgou Logotheti. Information Commercial Bank (Lykourgou Logotheti) Has ATM. Digital World (% ; Pythagora; per hr 4; h11am-10.30pm) Has internet access. National Bank of Greece (Lykourgou Logotheti) Port police (% ) Post office (Lykourgou Logotheti) Tourist office (% ; deap5@otenet.gr; Lykourgou Logotheti; h8am-9.30pm) The friendly and informative staff advise about the historical sites and sleeping options, provide maps, bus timetables and information about ferry schedules, and also exchange currency. Tourist police (% ; Lykourgou Logotheti) Left of the tourist office. Sights Samians took the lead locally in the 1821 War of Independence; the major relic of that turbulent time is the Castle of Lykourgos Logothetis, built in 1824 by resistance leader Logothetis on a hill at the southern end of Metamorfosis Sotiros, near the town car park. The city walls extend from here to the Evpalinos Tunnel, which can also be reached along this path. The Pythagorio Museum (% ; Town Hall, Irinis; admission free; h8.45am-2.30pm Tue- Sun) is not as good as the one in Vathy (Samos), but it does contain some nice finds from the Ireon. Exiting Pythagorio towards the northeast, traces of an ancient theatre appear on a path to the left. The right fork past the theatre leads to Moni Panagias Spilianis (Monastery of the Virgin of the Grotto; % ; h9am-8pm), which, as the name might suggest, indeed has a lovely cool cave that makes for a welcome temporary respite from summer heat. EVPALINOS TUNNEL ΕΥΠΑΛΙΝΕΟ ΟΡΥΓΜΑ Back in 524 BC, when Pythagorio (then known as Samos) was a bustling metropolis of 80,000 people, securing reliable sources of drinking water became crucial. To solve the problem, ruler Polycrates put his dictatorial whims to good use, enlisting teams of labourers to dig into a mountainside according to the exacting plan of his ingenious engineer, Evpalinos. The result was the 1034m-long Evpalinos Tunnel (% ; adult/student 4/2; h8.45am-2.45pm Tue-Sun), parts of which can be explored today. In mediaeval times locals used the tunnel as a hide-out during pirate raids. The Evpalinos Tunnel is actually two tunnels: a service tunnel and a lower water tunnel visible from the walkway, deep below to the right. While the tunnel itself is wide enough, not everyone can get into it, as the entrance stairway is both low and has very narrow walls, with no grease provided. NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

308 G Vatikioti Heras 604 SAMOS Pythagorio Book accommodation online at SAMOS Around Pythagorio 605 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS PYTHAGORIO 18 To Ancient Theatre (800m); Evpalinos 16 Tunnel (1km); Moni Panagias Spilianis (1km); Airport (4km); The Ireon (8km) To Samiopoula Islet (14km) 3 If walking, reach the tunnel from the western end of Lykourgou Logotheti. If driving, a sign points to the tunnel s southern mouth after entering Pythagorio from Vathy (Samos). Sleeping In high summer, when foreign tour companies clamp down, book in advance. Hotel Alexandra (% ; Metamorfosis Sotiros 22; d 25) There are only eight rooms, but they are lovely and some have sea views. The enclosed garden is especially nice on hot summer days. Pension Despina (% ; pansiondespina@ yahoo.gr; A Nikolaou; s/d 30/40) A clean, quiet little pension on Irinis, the Despina offers simple studios and rooms with balconies; some have kitchenettes. It also has a relaxing back garden. Hotel Evripili (% ; fax ; Konstantinou Kanari; s/d 45/60) A friendly and modern hotel with well-appointed, cosy rooms off the waterfront; some have balconies. Polixeni Hotel (% ; fax ; d 65; a) This homey place on the waterfront has nicely furnished, clean and comfortable 8 Ruins of Aphrodite INFORMATION Commercial Bank ATM... 1 B2 Digital World... 2 B2 National Bank of Greece... 3 A2 Post Office... 4 C2 Tourist Office... 5 B2 Tourist Police... 6 B2 7 Polykratous Egeou 1 Lykourgou Logotheti Kapetan Metamorfosis Sotiros Evpalinou S Georgiadi Despoti Kyrillou 9 10 Konstantinou Kanari Kontaxi Pythagora A Lykourgou Aegean Sea Odyssea Orologa Egeou Pelagous To Evpalinos Tunnel (1.5km) Roïkou D Rafalia 4 12 Themistokli Sofouli Irinis 19 A Nikolaou 11 Jetty Harbour Tarsana Damos Esopou Melissou m miles Quay rooms with balconies and very amiable staff. A good bet. Eating Pythagorio s waterfront is lined with restaurants, their multilingual menus hinting at the target market; explore the backstreets for more homey fare. Elia (% ; mains 7-10) One of the newer restaurants in town, Elia gets high marks from locals for sophisticated Greek and international fare, though it s a bit on the pricey side. It s located at the waterfront s far end, before the town beach. Restaurant Remataki (% ; mezedhes 4-6, mains 7-10) Near Elia, the Remataki has a nice waterfront balcony and some splashy light meals; salad with rocket leaves, Cretan dakos (tomato and cheese on oil-softened rusks) and dolmadhes (rice wrapped in vine leaves) are all recommended. The almost unrecognisable tyropitakia (small fried cheese pies) should, however, be avoided. Poseidonas (% ; mains 6-12) Next door to Remataki, the Poseidonas specialises in seafood with an international flair. 13 To Psili Armmos (11km); Vathy (Samos) (14km) 17 Town SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Castle of Lykourgos Logothetis.. 7 B3 Pythagorio Museum... 8 A1 SLEEPING Hotel Alexandra... 9 B2 Hotel Evripili C2 Pension Despina C1 Polixeni Hotel C2 EATING Elia D2 Poseidonas D1 Restaurant Remataki D1 TRANSPORT Bus Stop A2 Ferry Quay D3 Olympic Airlines A2 Taxi Rank C2 AROUND PYTHAGORIO The Ireon Το Ηραίον To judge merely from the scattered ruins of the Ireon, Samos ancient sanctuary of Hera located 8km west of Pythagorio, it would be impossible to imagine the magnificence of the rituals enacted along the Sacred Way. This path, once flanked by thousands of marble statues, led from the city to the World Heritage listed Ireon (% ; adult/student 4/3; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), built at the legendary birthplace of Hera. However, enough survives to provide a glimmer of insight into the divine sanctuary that was actually four times larger than the Parthenon. Built in the 6th century BC on marshy ground, where the River Imbrasos enters the sea, the Ireon was constructed on the site of an earlier Mycenaean temple. Plundering and earthquakes since antiquity have left only one column standing, though extensive foundations remain. There is something deeply disconcerting about the headless statues of a family, the Geneleos Group, from whose number the giant kouros statue in the museum at Vathy (Samos) was taken (for more details, see p600 ). Other remains on the site include a stoa, more temples and a 5th-century Christian basilica. Mytilinii Μυτιληνιοί Skeletons of prehistoric animals, including forerunners of the giraffe and elephant, are displayed at this inland village s palaeontology museum (% ; admission 2.50; h10am- 2pm), northwest of Pythagorio. For more (human) skeletal relics, Agia Triada Monastery (% ; h8am-1pm Mon-Sun) features an ossuary and a lovely rural setting. Hardy walkers can reach it from the museum. es Sandy Psili Ammos (not to be confused with the beach near Votsalakia) is the finest beach near Pythagorio. Gazing across at Turkey, this lovely cove is bordered by shady trees and has shallow waters good for kids. If you fall in love with the place and want to be there at its quietest times, a few tavernas nearby rent rooms. To get there take the bus from Vathy (Samos) or an excursion boat ( 15) from Pythagorio. If driving, you must take the Pythagorio Vathy road north for a few kilometres and turn east where the beach is signposted. A unique pond on the left, 1km before the beach, comes to life in spring with the arrival of pink flamingos. Glykoriza, nearer Pythagorio, is a clean, pebble-and-sand beach that hosts a few hotels. SOUTHWESTERN SAMOS Pythagorio to Drakei Πυθαγόριο προς Δρακαίους Driving west from Pythagorio brings you into spectacular mountain scenery with stunning views of the south coast, though the craggy forests are littered with charred trees from previous wildfires. This route also features many little signposted huts, where beekeepers sell the superlative but inexpensive Samian honey stop in for a free sample and walk away with a jar. The southwest coast of Samos held out against mass tourism for longer than the north, but the best beaches are starting to attract the inevitable resorts; tourism is still quite low-key, however, and you can find many secluded wild spots. The drive from Pythagorio to the pebble beach at Ormos Marathokampou passes through A MATTER OF MEASUREMENTS While the obsession with getting the proper pint may seem a modern one, the ancient Greeks, too, were fixated on measuring their alcohol. Pythagoras, that great Samian mathematician (and, presumably, drinker) came up with an ingenious invention that ensured party hosts and publicans could not be taken advantage of by guests aspiring to inebriation. What he came up with was dubbed the dikiakoupa tou Pythagora The Just Cup of Pythagoras a mysterious multiholed drinking vessel that holds its contents perfectly well, unless one fills it past the engraved line, at which point the glass drains from the bottom and the naughty drinker is punished for gluttony. Today faithful reproductions of the dikiakoupa tou Pythagora, usually made of colourful, glazed ceramic, are available in gift shops on Samos, a reminder of the Apollan Mean (the ancient Greek maxim of Apollo): Everything in moderation. NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

309 606 SAMOS Northern Samos Book accommodation online at CHIOS History 607 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS wonderful mountains and the unvisited little villages of Koumaradei and Pyrgos. From the beach, it s a 6km drive inland to Marathokamphos, which has panoramic views of the immense Bay of Marathokamphos. Some 4km west of Ormos Marathokampou is Votsalakia (often called Kambos), which has a long, sandy beach. There s an even nicer one 2km further at Psili Ammos. -side tavernas prepare fresh fish on the grill and in huge skillets, and there are many domatia around. Forging on past Psili Ammos takes you on the rugged western route skirting Mt Kerkis. From here until the villages of Kallithea, and Drakei where the road abruptly terminates, the coast is almost totally undeveloped and isolated a real treat for the adventurous. NORTHERN SAMOS Vathy to Karlovasi Βαθύ προς Καρλόβασι From Vathy (Samos), the coastal road heading west passes many beaches and resorts, first among them Kokkari, 10km out of town. Once a little fishing village, Kokkari is now a popular holiday resort with a long, narrow pebble beach, a favourite with windsurfers for its strong summer winds. There are plenty of decent rooms, studios and tavernas available. The popular nearby beaches of Avlakia, Lemonaki and Tsamadou are the most accessible for walkers staying in Kokkari. The latter two are clothing optional. Continuing west past the beaches brings you into increasingly leafy country, and a left-hand turn-off leads, after 5km, to the lovely mountain village of Vourliotes. From here it s a 3km hike to Moni Panagias Vrondianis, the island s oldest surviving monastery, built in the 1550s. Vourliotes is marked out by its multicoloured, shuttered houses clustered on a central square, and can also be reached by a footpath from Kokkari. Retracing the route back to the coast road, continue west until the signposted lefthand turn-off for the enchanting village of Manolates, 5km further up the lower slopes of Mt Ampelos (known as the Balcony of Samos). Set amid thick forests of pine and deciduous trees, and made up of some truly gorgeous traditional houses, Manolates is nearly encircled by mountains and offers a cool alternative to the sweltering coast, impressive views of which can be had from the upper village. Manolates is also a paradise for hikers and bird lovers, who can count on being serenaded by nightingales, warblers and thrushes. The villagers have shown a fondness for tourism, with numerous shops selling handmade ceramic art, icons and natural products. Despite the popularity of the place with organised groups, Manolates still makes a welcome refuge from the hectic summer scene down below, and is integral to the Samos experience. Back on the coast heading west, the road continues through Agios Konstantinos, a pretty, flower-filled village before Karlovasi, Samos third port. Karlovasi has a more quiet, workaday feel and sees most of its visitors only for ferry connections. The nearest beach is the sand-and-pebble Potami, 2km west of town. Sleeping In Kokkari, EOT (Greek National Tourist Organisation; % ) can find you accommodation. The office is next to the Greek Telecommunications Company (OTE; telephone office), about 100m after the large church by the bus stop. Studio Angella (% , , in Athens ; Manolates; d 25; a) The best place to stay in Manolates is this collection of five studios built into the side of a hill. The modern rooms have kitchenettes for self-caterers, and from the balconies there are sweeping views over the mountains to the sea. Traditional Greek House (% , ; Manolates; studio 30; a) There is only one studio available in this large old house behind the Despina Taverna in central Manolates, so phone in advance. Otherwise ask at the taverna. The room is quiet, romantic and tastefully furnished worth the trouble if you can get it. Kokkari Hotel (% ; fax ; Kokkari; d incl breakfast 68-73; as) This classy establishment is about 1km west of the bus stop. It s set back from the road in a pretty yellow building, an oasis of calm from the busy village. Rooms are modern and comfortably furnished, and there is a café across the road. Aidonokastro (% ; fax ; Valiondates; d/tr 60/75) Located in Valiondates, a tiny village on the road to Manolates, these renovated apartments set in five traditionally furnished houses make for a forested respite from the touristy coast. English-speaking manager Yiannis can assist hikers in plotting out routes. A large taverna is adjacent. Eating Kokkari is full of resort-type restaurants and the usual tavernas; for dining that is more atmospheric and guaranteed fresh, head for the mountain villages. Grill Café (% ; Vourliotes; mains from 5) This little taverna on the left of Vourliotes main square specialises in mixed vegetarian mezedhes, though it does have some hearty meat fare; try traditional sausages in pitta. Loukas Taverna (% ; Manolates; mains 4-6) Since it s located at the tip-top of Manolates village, you work up an appetite just trying to get to this well-signposted taverna. While the magnificent views of mountains and sea from the outdoor balcony seem an ample enough reward for the effort, the fried zucchini flowers, hearty meat portions and local muscat wine really make it worthwhile. For dessert, Loukas also serves a tempting array of home-made cakes. Despina Taverna (% ; mains 5-7) This little taverna, halfway up the hill in Manolates, serves mayirefta (ready-cooked meals) and a good assortment of meats. It s almost as good as the Loukas Taverna, and a better bet if you re tired of walking. CHIOS ΧΙΟΣ pop 53,817 / area 859 sq km Although Chios (hee-os) is one of Greece s largest and most unique islands, most of the foreigners who visit it are diaspora Greeks with familial ties. Yet despite its low profile, Chios has much to offer, from sandy beaches, extraordinary caves and medieval stone villages, to remote mountains, unusual museums and a thoroughly Hellenic nightlife. Southern Chios is the only place where mastic (a kind of gum) trees can be fruitful, and the island as a whole has a history of maritime greatness. Chios is one of those islands that grows on you slowly, but has a lasting effect. Its people are reserved, but friendly, very hospitable and surprisingly cosmopolitan; indeed, you will meet many whose shipping careers have taken them round the world. With its excellent home-style cooking, authentic villages and endless opportunities for solitude on a coastline largely untouched by organised tourism, Chios remains one of the great unknown Greek island getaways. History Chios is one of the big ones, not only in size, but also in historical and economic importance. Like Samos and Lesvos, its proximity to Asia Minor (Turkey s Karaburun peninsula lies just 8km away, across the Chios Straits) gave it a turbulent history of great successes and terrible tragedies. Many of Greece s grand old shipping dynasties hail from Chios and its dependencies, Inousses and Psara. Under the Ottomans, Chios monopolistic production of mastic the sultan s favourite gum brought Chians wealth and special privileges. At the same time, during the Greek War of Independence, thousands were slaughtered by the Turks. A century later the Great Idea (Megali Idea) for the liberation of the Anatolian coast unfolded with a naval assault from Chios and ended with the Greek armies being driven back into the sea, as waves of refugees from Asia Minor flooded Chios and neighbouring islands. Some Greeks argue that Christopher Columbus was a Chian, an intriguing possibility that cannot be entirely proven or disproven (see boxed text, p613 ). Getting There & Away AIR Between Aegean Airlines and Olympic Airlines, Chios has five flights daily to Athens ( 42, 50 minutes), five weekly to Thessaloniki ( 66, one hour 10 minutes) and two weekly to Lesvos ( 32, 25 minutes). Olympic Airlines (% ; Leoforos Egeou) is in Chios Town. The airport is 4km from Chios Town. There s no shuttle bus; a taxi to/from the airport costs 6. FERRY Domestic In summer there s at least one ferry daily to Piraeus ( 29, eight hours) and Lesvos ( 14, three hours). A weekly ferry serves Thessaloniki ( 36, 18 hours) via Limnos ( 23, 11 hours), while another serves Alexandroupoli ( 27.20, 12½ hours) via Lesvos. Three boats go weekly to Samos ( 12.50, four hours), and one weekly to Kos ( 19.80, nine hours) and Rhodes ( 31.40, 15 hours). Buy tickets from NEL Lines (% ; fax ; Leoforos Egeou 16) in Chios Town. Miniotis Lines (% ; Neorion 23) in Chios Town runs small boats NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

310 608 CHIOS Getting There & Away CHIOS Chios Town 609 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS twice weekly to Karlovasi ( 10, four hours) and Vathy ( 11, 4½ hours) on Samos. Three times weekly these boats also travel to Fourni ( 12.40, 7½ hours) and Ikaria ( 13, 8½ hours). Miniotis also has three boats weekly to Psara ( 9.90, 3½ hours). Its boats occasionally dock at the harbour, near the corner of Leoforos Egeou and Kokali. CHIOS To Psara (20km) Cape Melanio Agia Markella A E G E A N S E A Cape Petasas Mt Amani (809m) Dardaria Moni Agias Markellas Avlonas Limnos Limnia Katavasi Volissos Bay Limenas Mesta Agia Dynami Volissos Sidirounda Mesta Kambia Spartounda Pispilounda Kastella Trahilos Bay Lithi Olympi Elata Cape Kambi Mt Pelineo (1297m) Elinda The little Oinoussai III serves the Inousses archipelago ( 3.80 one way, 1¼ hours, daily). It mainly leaves Chios in the afternoon and Inousses in the morning, necessitating an overnight stay. Purchase tickets on board. Sunrise Tours (% ; Kanari 28) in Chios Town also runs day trips to Inousses ( 20) twice weekly in summer. Daily water taxis go Viki Avgonyma Pyrgi Vessa Emboreios Cape Mastihos 608m Amades Kalamoti Dotia Armolia Komi Nagos Kardamyla 1037m Anavatos 479m Mt Oros (1186m) 796m Chios Pitious Nea Moni Kalamoti Bay Mavra Volia Giosonas Marmaro Bay Marmaro Langada Moni Agion Pateron Chios Town KAMPOS Kallimasia To Psara (40km) Karyes Thymiana Nenita Megas Limnionas Bay Gridia To Piraeus (240km) Vokaria 0 0 Cape Vamvakias Langada Bay Daskalopetra Vrontados Karfas Agia Fotini Chios Straits Excursion Boat Inousses Cape Ag Elinas Karfas To Samos (100km) 6 km 4 miles Inousses To Lesvos (100km) To Çešme (Turkey) (15km) TURKEY between Langada and Inousses ( 35, shared between the passengers). International Boats to Turkey run year-round from Chios. From May to October daily ferries to Çeşme leave Chios at 8.30am and return at 6.30pm; on Sunday it returns at 5pm. The fare is 22 one way and 25 return. Get further information and tickets from Miniotis Lines (% ; Neorion 23). Sunrise Tours (% ; Kanari 28) does a day trip to İzmir via Çeşme for 40, which includes boat transport to Çeşme and then a bus to and from İzmir, one hour away. Turkish visas, where required, are issued upon arrival in Çeşme. HYDROFOIL From April to September three hydrofoils weekly serve Lesvos ( 19.50, two hours) and Piraeus ( 33, six hours). Getting Around BUS From the long-distance bus station (% ; Leoforos Egeou) in Chios Town, there are four buses daily in summer to Pyrgi ( 2.70), three to Mesta ( 3.10) and four to Kardamyla ( 3.10) via Langada ( 1.70). Two weekly buses serve Volissos ( 4.10). Buses also do the beaches of Kampia, Nagos and Lithi. Services are reduced on weekends. Up-to-date schedules for these and all other destinations, with prices, are listed on the KTEL-Chios website ( Buses to Karfas are serviced by the blue (city) bus company. Schedules are posted at both the local bus station (% ), south of the public gardens, and the long-distance bus station. CAR & MOTORCYCLE Chios Town s car-rental outlets include Aegean Travel (% ; aegeantr@otenet.gr; Leoforos Egeou 114), below Chios Rooms. TA X I Chios Town s taxi rank (% ) is on Vounakiou. CHIOS TOWN pop 23,779 The island s port and capital, also called Chios, is on the central east coast, and home to almost half of the island s inhabitants. Like many island capitals, it features a long waterfront lined with cafés and a noisy large street hugging the water. Behind it, however, is a quieter, intriguing old quarter, where some lingering traditional Turkish houses stand around a Genoese castle and city walls. There s also a fun market area, and spacious public gardens where an open-air cinema operates on summer nights. The nearest decent beach is at Karfas, 6km south. Orientation Most ferries dock at the northern end of the waterfront; north of this is the old Turkish quarter, called Kastro. Getting off the ferry, turn left and follow the waterfront to reach the town centre. Turn right onto Kanari to reach the central square of Vounakiou. Northwest of it are the public gardens; southeast is the market area. Most shopping is found south of Vounakiou. Facing inland, the local bus station is to the right of the public gardens; the long-distance bus station to the left. Most hotels are near the waterfront, on the opposite end from the ferry berths. Information The National Bank of Greece and most other banks are between Kanari and Vounakiou. Several ATMs are also on the waterfront (Leoforos Egeou). Aegean Travel (% ; aegeantr@otenet.gr; Leoforos Egeou 114) InSpot Internet Café (% ; Leoforos Egeou 86; per hr 2.40;h24hr) Municipal Tourist Office (% ; infochio@otenet.gr; Kanari 18; h7am-10pm Apr-Oct, until 4pm Nov-Mar) Information on accommodation, car rental, bus and boat schedules, plus a useful free book, Hiking Routes of Chios. News Stand (% ; cnr Leoforos Egeou & Rodokanaki) Sells multilingual papers and books, like Lonely Planet guides Greece and Turkey. OTE (Dimokratias Roidou) Public telephone. Police (% ; cnr Polemidi 1 & Koundouriotou) Port police (% ; Neorion) Post office (% ; Omirou 2) One block behind the waterfront. Tourist police (% ; Neorion) Sights The idiosyncratic Filippos Argentis Museum (% ; Korais; admission 1.50; hmuseum & library 8am-2pm Mon-Fri, pm Fri, 8am-12.30pm Sat), in the same building as the impressive Korais NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

311 610 CHIOS Chios Town Book accommodation online at CHIOS Central Chios 611 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS CHIOS TOWN Stefanou Tsouri To Anavatos (10km); Nea Moni (14km) To Vrontados (7km); Kardamyla (29km); Volissos (46km) Inopionos Hionis 24 Public Gardens 16 Polytehniou Dimokvatias Roidou 29 Vounakiou 35 Cathedral 6 4 Library, contains embroideries, traditional costumes and portraits of the wealthy Argentis family. Born in Marseilles in 1891, Argentis devoted his life to researching the history of Chios and wrote many significant works. The archaeological museum (% ; Mihalon 10; admission 2; h8.30am-2.45pm Tue-Sun) contains sculptures, pottery and coins dating from the Neolithic period. Closed at the time of writing, the Byzantine Museum (% ; Vounakiou) is housed in a former mosque, the Medjitie Djami. Its collection of sculptures dates from the 14th- to 15th-century Genoese occupation. Within the Kastro s main gate is the tiny Giustiniani Palace Museum (% ; admission 2 Mon-Sat, 1 Sun; h9am-3pm Tue-Sun). Its restored Martyron Delagramatika Kastro INFORMATION Aegean Travel...(see 17) InSpot Internet Café... 1 C3 Mr Quick Laundry... 2 C3 Municipal Tourist Office... 3 B2 National Bank of Greece... 4 B2 News Stand... 5 C3 OTE... 6 B2 Police... 7 B4 Port Police... 8 C1 Post Office... 9 B3 Tourist Police C1 Atsikis SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Archaeological Museum C4 Byzantine Museum B2 Filippos Argenti Museum B3 Giustiniani Palace Museum B1 Kastro Main Gate B2 Open-Air Cinema A2 Kalampoka Aplotarias 12 Market Area Argenti Kanari Ralli Psyhari Theologou Ladis El Kountouriotou To Pyrgi (24km); Mesta (34km) Venizelou Koraïs 13 Tsitseki 9 Polemidi 26 Theotoka 33 Omirou Rodokanaki 21 2 Leof Egeou Favierou 31 5 G Souri 22 Neorion Port 20 Chios Straits 8 Livanou Mihalon m miles SLEEPING Chios Rooms D3 Hotel Kyma D3 Rooms Alex C3 EATING Mezedopoleon Palaio Petrino C3 Ouzeri Tzivaeri C1 To Meliotiko Ouzeri C1 To Tavernaki tou Tassou D4 SHOPPING Kava Potopoleio A1 Mastic Spa B2 Mastihashop C2 TRANSPORT Aegean Travel...(see 17) Boats to Inousses B1 Ferry Quay B1 Ferry to Turkey...(see 27) Local Bus Station B2 Long-Distance Bus Station B2 Miniotis Lines C1 NEL B2 Olympic Airlines C2 Sunrise Tours B2 Taxi Rank B2 Byzantine wall paintings include important 13th-century frescoes of the prophets. The Public Gardens make a nice spot for relaxing; in summer Hollywood hits are projected here in an enclosed open-air cinema (tickets 6). Shows start at 9pm. Sleeping Chios municipal tourist office keeps a full list of domatia useful for those wishing to avoid the waterfront accommodation s street noise. Chios Rooms (% , ; Leoforos Egeou 110; s/d/tr 25/35/45) An eclectic, hostel-like neoclassical house on the waterfront, Chios Rooms is the inspiration of its owner, native New Zealander Don. Full of Kokali 18 Evgenias Handri To Grecian Castle (300m); Airport (4km); Kampos (4km); Karfas (6km) vintage furnishings, traditional rugs and lofty ceilings, the place has character, though bathrooms are separate. The rooftop penthouse has its own terrace. Having spent over 30 years in Greece, owner Don has much wisdom to impart about Greek life, and life in general, and will readily do so over a beer; the dude abides. Rooms Alex (% ; Livanou 29; s/d 30/45) This friendly place is visible for its bright roof garden adorned with various flags. If the interior seems dark, imagine the dark of a ship s hull: kindly owner Alex Stoupas was a sea captain for 21 years, and his lovingly handmade model ships decorate each of the simple but clean rooms. The kapetanios will pick you up for free from the ferry, and speaks English, French and Spanish. Book ahead in summer. Hotel Kyma (% ; kyma@chi.forthnet.gr; Evgenias Handri 1; s/d/tr incl breakfast 61/78/97; a) This century-old converted mansion impresses from the first sight of its central marble stairway (hewn in 1917). The rooms in the old wing live up to this promise, with stately décor, billowing curtains and sea-view balconies with red marble walls (ask for room 29). What makes the Kyma more than just another period hotel is its service; owner Theodoros Spordilis wants you to fall in love with Chios, and solves problems in English, Italian and German. There s free wi-fi, and transport and stays in the Kyma s sister hotel ( p612 ) in Kardamyla can be arranged. Eating & Drinking There s good eating in Chios Town, especially near the waterfront; nightlife, too, primarily happens here, in a contiguous set of bars filled by the unworried heirs of shipping empires. Ouzeri Tzivaeri (% ; Neoreion 13; mains 3-6) The sort of food strong enough to soak up ouzo (the Tzivaeri serves 10 kinds) is dished out at this friendly portside eatery. You might need a cast-iron gut to lay into oil-drenched,sun-dried tomatoes, grilled cod strips and traditional Chios sausages but then again, that s what a good ouzerie is all about. Mezedopoleion Palaio Petrino (% ; Leoforos Egeou; mains from 7) The only reason to lament Chios wonderfully warm weather, perhaps, is that diners never have to sit indoors and enjoy the Palaio Petrino s splendidly painted interior. No matter, the food is good enough to enjoy inside or out. Try the tyrokafteri (spicy cheese dip) and ktapodi krasato (octopus in wine sauce) with some hearty Northern Aegean wine. To Meliotiko Ouzeri (% ; Neoreion; mains around 4-7) Some Chians live in fear of the immense portions ladled out at the Meliotiko; this no-nonsense stronghold of the Greek culinary pantheon is where you fill your stomach while waiting for the ferry. To Tavernaki tou Tassou (% ; Livanou 8; mains 6-8) This family-friendly eatery near the sea offers standard taverna fare, Chios own Kambos Lemonade and an adjoining kid s land that will help keep restless ones pacified during dinner. Beer Academy (% ; Livanou 8;h6pm- 2am) This branch of the popular Thessaloniki watering hole is a welcome alternative to most bars Greek holy trinity of Amstel, Heineken and Mythos, with over 30 brews representing Boston to Belgium and beyond. Shopping Mastihashop (% ; Leoforos Egeou 36) Get mastic-based products such as lotions, toothpaste, soaps and condiments here. Mastic Spa (% ; Leoforos Egeou 12) The place for mastic cosmetics. Kava Potopoleio (% ; Inopionos 4) Fine wines and many kinds of European beer are sold in this little shop below the Public Gardens. CENTRAL CHIOS North of Chios Town, visit Vrontados, where you can sit on the legendary stone chair of Homer, the Daskalopetra. Immediately south of Chios Town is the Kambos, a lush area with citrus trees, where wealthy Genoese and Greek merchant families from the 14th century onwards kept summer homes. It s worth visiting to see the walled mansions, some restored, others crumbling, and elaborate gardens. The fairly extensive Kambos is best toured by bicycle, moped or car. Chios main beach resort, Karfas, lies nearby, 6km south of Chios Town. The sandy beach, with a few fancy hotels and development, can make it get crowded. In Chios centre is Nea Moni (admission free; h8am-1pm & 4-8pm), a grand 11th-century Byzantine monastery and a World Heritage listed site. Since it s undergoing extensive renovations, some buildings may be closed. Nea Moni was built to commemorate a NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

312 612 CHIOS Northern Chios Book accommodation online at CHIOS Southern Chios 613 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS miraculous event: the appearance of an icon of the Virgin Mary before three shepherds. The monastery was once one of the richest in Greece, and the most pre-eminent artists of Byzantium were commissioned to create the mosaics in its katholikon (principal church of the monastic complex). Disastrously, during the Greek War of Independence in 1822, the Turks torched the monastery and massacred its monks. Macabre monastic skulls are lined in the ossuary at the little chapel. Another catastrophe occurred with the earthquake of 1881, when the dome of the katholikon caved in, damaging the mosaics. Despite this, they still rank among the country s greatest surviving examples of Byzantine art. Nea Moni is now inhabited by nuns. At the end of a silent road, 10km away, is spectral Anavatos, filled with abandoned greystone houses built on a precipitous cliff. In 1822, during the savage Turkish reprisals, the villagers hurled themselves over it rather than be taken alive. A place of great solemnity and significance to the Chians, Anavatos should be visited, though the narrow, stepped pathways leading between the houses to the summit can be dangerous, and the route is often closed. More happily, the nearby 11th-century hilltop village of Avgonyma is currently undergoing a bit of a revival. Spitakia (% ; d from 90) offers unique studios in restored buildings. The beaches on Chios mid-west coast are quiet and good for solitude seekers, though they re not the island s most spectacular. Lithi, the southernmost one, attracts the majority of sunbathers. NORTHERN CHIOS Lonesome northern Chios, its coastal towns once a stronghold of shipping barons, is full of craggy peaks (Mt Pelineo, Mt Oros and Mt Amani), deserted villages and barren hill sides. The drive north from Chios Town along the eastern coast is astonishing, and brings you through bizarre, boulder-strewn mountains like from some other planet. After the small coastal settlements of Vrontados and Langada, you come to the area s main villages, Kardamyla and Marmaro, the ancestral homes of many wealthy ship-owning families, though you would never know it from the humble architecture. Streets are so narrow, in fact, that some buildings walls feature painted lines so buses won t barge into them. There is an earthy sand beach at Marmaro, but better pebble ones exist 5km further at the fishing village of Nagos, and at Giosonas, 1km beyond. The beaches have very clear water and a few tavernas, but not much shade. After Nagos, the coast road heads northwest and upwards, skirting craggy Mt Pelineo (1297m). This is one of Chios most remote areas. Amades and Viki are two tiny villages you pass before Kambia, high up on a ridge overlooking bare hill sides and the sea. Here choose between turning south on the central road through the mountains, or continuing along the coast. The latter option passes through wild, empty hills on a jagged road before reaching the pebbly Agia Markella and the monastery above it, also named after Agia Markella, the island s patron saint. Some 8km southeast is Volissos, legendary birthplace of Homer, with its impressive Genoese fort. Volissos port, Limnia, is not particularly striking but has a taverna. From Volissos the coastal road continues south until Elinda, where it returns eastwards to Chios Town. Sleeping Hotel Kardamyla (% ; kyma@chi.forthnet.gr; Marmaro; s/d/tr 61/78/97; a) Although the 1970s architecture is somewhat dated, the simple rooms are clean and well maintained at this quiet beachfront hotel in Marmaro. What keeps people coming back, however, is the warm hospitality of the joint Greek-Turkish Spordilis family, who invite their guests to join them for a patio lunch. Since this is the sister hotel of Chios Town s Hotel Kyma ( p611 ), you can also arrange a stay from there. SOUTHERN CHIOS The evocative south of Chios is unique, not only in Greece but in the world: it s the only place where the gum-producing mastic tree can be cultivated, a blessing which for centuries made the area wealthy and self-reliant. The 20 villages comprising the Mastihohoria (Mastic villages) feature arid scrublands of rolling hills, criss-crossed with elaborate stone walls running throughout the placid olive and mastic groves. Two of these villages, Pyrgi and Mesta, are particularly unique for their aesthetic appeal, the former filled with houses decorated in unusual colourful patterns, the latter a car-free, walled settlement inhabited since Genoese colonisers built it in the 14th century. Mastic was a very valuable commodity, one prized for its medicinal powers since antiquity; as capital of the Mastihohoria, Mesta had to be especially well fortified. The town is well preserved today, and is a great, romantic place where children can run around safely. It s a good base for hill walks, exploring hidden southern beaches and caves, and getting back to nature by participating in mastic and olive cultivation with the locals. Pyrgi Πυργί pop 1044 Located 24km southwest of Chios, the striking village of Pyrgi (peer-ghi) is the Mastihohoria s largest, and truly an eye-opener. The vaulted, narrow streets of this fortified village pass through buildings with façades decorated in intricate grey and white patterns, some geometric and others based on flowers, leaves and animals. The technique used, called xysta, requires coating the walls with a mixture of cement and black volcanic sand, painting over it with white lime and then scraping off parts of the lime with the bent prong of a fork to reveal the matt grey beneath. Pyrgi s central square, where the road passes through, is flanked by a few tavernas COLUMBUS OF THE RED EARTH and shops and the little 12th-century Church of Agios Apostolos (%10am-1pm Tue-Thu & Sat). The church s 17th-century frescoes are well preserved, and the façade of the larger church, on the square s opposite side, has the most impressive xysta designs in town. On the main road, just east of the central square, is a house with a small plaque, attesting to its former Italian occupant, one Christopher Columbus (see boxed text, below ). While Pyrgi itself is a must-see, for sleeping Mesta is the place. However, if you do stay, there are signposted domatia and Giannaki Rooms (% , ; fax ; d/quad 35/80; a). Giannaki used to offer just simple rooms, but now offers a large house for up to eight people ( 100). Emboreios Εμπορειός Six kilometres southeast of Pyrgi, Emboreios was the Mastihohoria s port back when the mastic producers were real high rollers. Today it s a quiet place known for the beautiful, though shadeless Mavra Volia, named for its black volcanic pebbles. Ask around for domatia. For eating, try the shady, atmospheric Porto Emborios (% ; mains 5-7), decorated with fishing nets and hung chillies and garlic; they attest to its vegetable dishes (roast meats are well represented, too). Despite being one of the world s greatest seafaring nations, Greece s Renaissance sea captains didn t get to the Americas right? According to a theory long propounded by some Greeks (and foreign philhellenes), great explorer Christopher Columbus was no Italian from the streets, as the conventional wisdom has it; rather, he was a Chios-born Greek, of noble Byzantine descent. While the argument can t be proven, it is intriguing. Born at a time when the Ottomans were conquering Byzantium, the enigmatic Columbus identified himself simply as a citizen of the Genoese Republic, of which Chios was then a part. His unique signature involved Greek characters, and he called himself Columbus de Terra Rubra (Columbus of the Red Earth) a reference, supporters believe, to the unique reddish soil of southern Chios. In fact, the Columbus (Kolombos) surname is common in the Mastihohoria; some families date back to the explorer s time. Indeed, Spanish King Ferdinand could find no trace of Columbus alleged family in Genoa. And Columbus sea-captain log, the official one in Latin, stated false information, whereas his secret one, in Greek, gave true coordinates. Why, then, did Columbus not come out of the Genoese closet? Being Greek Orthodox, one explanation goes, Columbus could never have convinced a Catholic king to fund his expeditions, which popular history records as being financially motivated. However, in his own writings, Columbus reveals that divine inspiration and a missionary fever fuelled his desire to explore new worlds. Indeed, at a bleak time when the expanding Ottoman Empire threatened to overrun Christian Europe, could a powerless Byzantine prince have done anything less? NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

313 614 CHIOS Southern Chios Book accommodation online at CHIOS Southern Chios 615 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS Mesta Μεστά Mesta (mest-aah) is the culmination of the southern Chios experience: indeed, it is one of the most unique experiences you can have anywhere in all of Greece. A miniature, car-free Rhodes, this mediaeval castle town features appealing stone alleyways that are intertwined with flowers and intricate balconies, and is completely enclosed by thick defensive walls. The town was built in the 14th century by the island s Genoese overlords, to keep pirates and would-be invaders out. It s an ingenious example of mediaeval defensive architecture, featuring a double set of walls, four gates and a pentagonal structure. Since all of the rooftops are interconnected, with the right company you can actually walk across the entire town. Dastardly locals have been known to settle scores by dumping water on an adversary s head from the rooftops. Although the streets are labyrinthine and narrow, you can t get lost in Mesta. The action is found around the central square, near the enormous church of the Taxiarhon; on the tranquil, secluded laneways, rooms for rent are indistinguishably attached to the residences of local elders, who sit outside, the occasional cat darting past and the laughter of running children filling the air. Mesta is a very relaxing place to stay and the accommodation and eating offerings are some of the island s best. It s also a great base for outdoor activities, and has great nearby beaches and other attractions. Currently local leaders are trying to realise a vision for a lowkey, sustainable tourism matching the town s aesthetic and the peaceful natural environment. In addition, newly built accommodation of unprecedented elegance has made Mesta an option for those who want serenity and sophistication. ORIENTATION Buses stop on the main road, on the plateia known locally as Gyros. Facing the town from the bus shelter, turn right and then immediately left; a sign points to Mesta centre. The central square, with rooms, a taverna, café and church, is called Taxiarhon. SIGHTS Two churches of the Taxiarhes (Archangels) exist in Mesta, the older and smaller one dating from Byzantine times and featuring a magnificent 17th-century iconostasis. The larger church, just off Taxiarhon, was built in the 19th century, created entirely by the townspeople s donations and labour. It has an ornate outer patio, huge, glittering chandeliers and very fine frescoes. ACTIVITIES Aside from its historical attractions, Mesta and its neighbouring mastic fields, beaches and cave ( opposite ) offer great opportunities to participate in traditional Chian farming, cooking and cultural activities, as well as the full range of outdoor activities. The fun and well-informed folks at Masticulture Ecotourism Activities (% ; can arrange all activities, as well as sell tickets, find accommodation and provide general travel information. Located on Taxiarhon closest to Mesaonas restaurant, Masticulture s office has a cool reading room for visitors, who can sink into cosy sofas and armchairs with organic gardening guides, maps and travel-related books in English. SLEEPING & EATING Rooms are plentiful in Mesta; head to Taxiarhon and the local travel agency, Masticulture Ecotourism Activities (% ; culture.com), or else ask in the adjacent Mesaonas restaurant for the proprietors listed following. Masticulture can also help find rooms in Limenas Mesta, Olympi and elsewhere. Anna Floradis Rooms (%/fax ; floradis@internet.gr; s/d 40/50; a) The friendly Anna Floradis, who speaks French and some English, has rooms, studios and self-catering suites in different but equally lovely parts of Mesta, all with TV and air-con. Dhimitris Pipidhis Rooms (% ; house 60;hyear-round;a) The friendly, Englishspeaking Dhimitris and Koula Pipidhis have two traditional houses for rent in Mesta. Each has two bedrooms, a pounti (the traditional small Mesta house atrium), kitchen and washing machine. Book in advance in summer. Mesta Medieval Castle Suites (% ; d/t incl breakfast 94/117; a) Discerning-yet-discreet luxury accommodation has finally come to Mesta with the new Medieval Castle Suites. The rooms are spread out throughout the village, blending in seamlessly with the neighbouring houses. Open the door, however, and you have ultrachic rooms with all modern amenities, including flat-screen laptops; the only thing lacking, perhaps, is a bathtub. Décor is minimalist and obeys the contours of the space. The staff is very professional and helpful, and can pick you up from the ferry or airport. omesaonas (% ; Taxiarhon; mains 5-9) For years Kyria Dimitra has been serving excellent and hearty country food at this restaurant outside on the far end of the central square (the Mesaonas café for drinks and ice cream is opposite). Everything is great; try the roast chicken and Greek salad for a nourishing lunch. Everything is local, right down to the souma (mastic-flavoured firewater). You should order the mixed meat plate to share, but be sure to pounce on the incredibly delicious beef keftedes (fritters) before they re all gone. Limani Meston (% ; Limenas Mesta; mains 6-10) For excellent and unique seafood dishes, come to this little waterfront fish taverna of Limani Meston. The astakomakaronada (lobster pasta) and special atherinopita (small fried fish with onions) are both heartily recommended. Around Mesta Just north of Mesta on the coast is the village s small port of Limenas Mesta. It has a pretty harbour of colourful fishing boats and tavernas, and nearby pebble beaches. Avlonia, 7.3km west of Mesta, is the best one around. Some 3km southeast of Mesta is the small agricultural village of Olympi, like Mesta and Pyrgi, a mastic-producing village characterised by its defensive architecture. The road south towards the coast leads after 5km to the splendid Cave of Sykia (admission 4; h10am- 8pm Tue-Sun), a 150-million-year-old cavern discovered accidently in Some 57m deep, the cave is filled with weird, multicoloured stalagtites and other rock formations, shaped like giant white organs and phantasmal figures. Selectively lit by floodlights and connected by a series of platforms with handrails, the cave is safe, though somewhat slippery. With its marvellous lighting and colours, the cave could be the set for some underground adventure movie. Guided tours are held every 30 minutes, the last at 7.30pm. BACK TO MASTIC One day, 32-year-old Vasilis Ballas and longtime girlfriend Roula had had enough: they decided, as one does, to quit their well-paying jobs in hectic Athens IT sector and move to a small village in southern Chios, to cultivate mastic trees. Our friends thought we were crazy, chuckles Vasilis, whose ancestors came from Mesta, the enchanting fortress town at the heart of Chios Mastihohoria. But now many of them are saying, I wish I was brave enough to do what you did! Cultivating the trees was harder than the two had imagined. It consumed many of their summer mornings, involved hurting the tree by making little gouges to encourage the mastic sap to drip out, and required endless hours of cleaning the sticky, pearly white substance before sending it off to the producers. The experience led the Ballas to think bigger, and now they have created Masticulture Ecotourism Activities ( opposite ), an offbeat, environmentally friendly travel service that encourages visitors to get their hands dirty by participating in the traditional livelihood of southern Chios. Masticulture s year-round activities include a mastic walking tour through shady fields gleaming with the dark green, bushy trees, where travellers can learn how mastic cultivation is done first-hand. Along the way, they can pick tomatoes, cucumbers, melons and more from the Ballas organic garden; at the end of the tour, a feast of traditional mezedhes follows. Other unusual activities arranged by Masticulture include olive gathering in winter, underwater sea urchin hunting in summer and grape-pressing (by foot, of course) in autumn. Masticulture s other activities include trips to ouzo and olive-oil factories, hidden beaches and tours of mediaeval buildings, as well as seminars for professional photography, icon painting, traditional music and dance, and special activities for children. For Vasilis and Roula, it was, in fact, the desire to have kids that influenced their decision to leave Athens. Mesta, and Chios in general, is a very safe and fun place for children, says Vasilis. And there s so much to enjoy here. With Masticulture, our goal is to help visitors to Mesta enjoy the real Mastihohoria experience. NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

314 616 INOUSSES Orientation & Information Book accommodation online at PSARA Getting There & Away 617 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS After the cave, continue on the goodquality dirt road to the coast. The road goes through a little-used military range, as the signs (unhelpfully, Greek only) warn. Although there s no danger, this is not a place for random hiking; stick to the road. After 2km the road ends at a small church overlooking Agia Dynami, a curving, sandy cove where the water is a stunning combination of blues and greens, flecked with white wavelets. The beach is completely pristine and undeveloped, and you re likely to have it all to yourself. INOUSSES ΟΙΝΟΥΣΣΕΣ pop 1050 / area 14 sq km A little-visited group of islands off Chios northeast coast, Inousses is nonetheless a place of huge significance: some one-third of Greece s shipping barons (the so-called arhontes) came from there. The descendents of ship-owning families from Kardamyla who first settled here in 1750, these Inoussans amassed huge fortunes in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Traces of Inousses vital seafaring identity remain in its welldisciplined merchant marine academy, its nautical museum and its fishing fleet, and, of course, in the grand holiday homes of the Inousses shipping aristocracy, now ensconced in Athens, London or New York. Inousses is deliberately kept tranquil and untouristed, some say, to keep it the private paradise of the locals and their illustrious relatives. This image has been overblown, however; Inousses is surprisingly lively in summer, with an open-air cinema, a couple of cafés and nighttime beach parties. You ll find rooms, a hotel and even whole houses for rent. Nevertheless, it has also retained its serenity and remains a soothing refuge from the outside world. The islands port and only town, also called Inousses, is a pleasing enough assortment of white stone houses crowned by two churches, with a waterfront lined by colourful boats where the plaintive cry of seagulls, and not domatia owners hawking rooms, greets travellers arriving from the ferry. Facing the port from the water is a small and green sculpted mermaid, the Mother of Inoussa (Mitera Inoussiotissa), who protects and watches over mariners. Orientation & Information Disembarking from the ferry, walk left along the waterfront and turn right to the central plateia, where the tavernas, museum and most of the town s services are found. Further along the waterfront are some cafés and, above them, a small church. A post office and National Bank of Greece stand side by side, around the corner from the Nautical Museum. However, there s no ATM, locals explain, because having one would mean unemploying one of the bank s two workers. Doctor (% ) Dimarhio (Town Hall;% ) Hotel Thalassoporos (% , ) Just above Hotel Thalassoporos. Police (% Post Office (% ;h9.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Sights & Activities Inousses has numerous hill-walking opportunities and untouched beaches. There s no tourist information, so ask for details at the dimarhio or the very helpful Hotel Thalassoporos. Bilali, 2km from town, is the best nearby beach and in high summer has nightly parties. In summer an open-air cinema (tickets 4) near the central waterfront brings Hollywood hits to Inousses, nightly at 9.30pm. Not only toy-boat aficionados will be impressed by Inousses little Nautical Museum (% ; Stefanou Tsouri 20; admission 1.50; h10am-1pm Mon-Fri), which celebrates the island s seafaring past. To create it, ship-owning arhon and museum founder Antonis Lemos donated his priceless collection of large model ships, which include early-20th-century commercial ships, whaling ships made of ivory and whalebone, and ivory models of French POW vessels from the Napoleonic Wars. However, the museum is more eclectic; along with these models (accompanied by vintage paintings of ships by eminent painter Aristeides Glykas), there s a swashbuckling collection of 18th-century muskets and sabres, a WWII-era US Navy diving helmet, a hand-cranking lighthouse made in 1864, antiquarian maps of Greece and, of course, the odd 6th-century-BC stone scarab seal and various Bronze Age antiquities. In true Greek style, the museum is timed to close just before the afternoon ferry from Chios arrives and to open only after the morning boat back to Chios has left. Therefore you may have to stay over for two nights just to see it, unless you can get someone to intercede on your behalf (Eleni at Hotel Thalassoporos is particularly helpful) and get it opened out of hours. To really feel the significance of Inousses and its heritage, take the 10-minute walk from the museum to the Church of Agia Paraskevi on the hill; in its leafy courtyard above the sea stands the Mausoleum of Inousses (Nekrotafion Inousson), where the island s shipowning dynasties have endowed the tombs of their greats with huge chambers, marble sculptures and miniature churches. It s a melancholy, moving place, and speaks volumes about the worldly achievements and self-perception of the extraordinary natives of these tiny islands. Sleeping There are allegedly 46 beds in private accommodation in Inousses town; ask at the dimarhio. Hotel Thalassoporos (% ; fax ; s/d incl breakfast 40/50; a) Friendly young Inoussan couple Eleni and Giorgos have breathed new life into this 30-year-old hotel. Although slightly dated, rooms are clean, all with TV, fridge and small balconies, with views of Inousses town s rooftops and the waterfront. Internet access is available. Eleni can also give general information, and help arrange house rental in more remote parts of the island. The hotel is a three-minute walk up a steep street on the ferry-dock side of the waterfront. Eating & Drinking Souvlaki Kostas (souvlaki 2.50) There s no name on this popular canteen above the central waterfront; you ll recognise it from the crowd happily munching outside, who know that cheerful Kostas, and his Brazilian sidekick Seline, serve the best souvlaki in Inousses. Inomageireio To Pateroniso (% ; mains 5-7) This whimsical taverna near the central plateia serves Greek standbys and whatever is the day s catch. Try a Greek salad with spongy feta and kritamos (rock samphire salad), along with a heads-and-all fry up of atherinia (minnows) and onions. Naftikos Omilos Inousson (% ;h9am- 3am) Walk along the quiet watefront long enough and you will reach this, the almost chic bar of the Inousses Yacht Club. Its long bar and outdoor patio are filled mostly with young Greeks (and their vacationing diaspora relatives), and pop music plays till late. Getting There & Away The little Oinoussai III ( 3.80 one way, 1¼ hours, daily) usually leaves in the afternoon and returns in the morning, meaning you ll be staying overnight. Purchase tickets on board, or from Sunrise Tours (% ; Kanari 28) in Chios Town. There are also twice-weekly day excursions in summer ( 20), again with Sunrise Tours. Daily water taxis (% ) travel to/ from Langada on Chios. The one-way fare is 35, which is split between the passengers. There are comparably priced water taxis to Chios Town, too. Getting Around Inousses has no buses or car rental; ask in one of the tavernas for its one taxi. PSARA ΨΑΡΑ pop 422 / area 45 sq km Still more remote Psara (psah-rah) is a rocky, sparsely vegetated island off Chios northwest coast. The island has been populated since Mycenaean times. Like Inousses and Chios itself, it prospered in Ottoman times because of its wealthy ship owners. However, after the Psariots aided the War of Independence, an Ottoman fleet landed on 21 June 1824, butchering over 15,000 people and taking others as slaves. Today the few inhabitants occupy one settlement, also called Psara. Although few make it here, and the accommodation and eating scene is limited, intrepid, peace-seeking travellers will enjoy this pristine speck in the sea well off the beaten track (or any track). Getting There & Away From Chios, ferries go to Psara daily except Saturday in summer ( 10, three hours). Contact Miniotis Lines (% ; otis.gr; Neorion 23) in Chios Town, or check with a local agent (% ). A direct ferry to Lavrio in Attica ( 20.80, 5½ hours) sails once weekly. NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

315 618 LESVOS (MYTILINI) LESVOS (MYTILINI) Mytilini Town 619 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS Weekly local caïques also run from Limnos ( 5, three hours) on Chios west coast, but departure times depend on prevailing weather conditions. LESVOS (MYTILINI) ΛΕΣΒΟΣ (ΜΥΤΙΛΗΝΗ) pop 93,428 / area 1637 sq km The third-largest island in Greece after Crete and Evia, Lesvos (Mytilini) is mountainous and fertile and prone, it seems, to always doing things in a big way. Some 11 million olive trees cling to Lesvos rugged hills, yielding delectable, golden-hued oil by the tonne; the island also produces half of the world s ouzo, the aniseed-flavoured firewater revered as Greece s national spirit. Culturally, too, Lesvos has gone above and beyond. From the musical composer Terpander and poet Arion of the 7th century BC, to 20th-century figures like Nobel LESVOS (MYTILINI) To Limnos (100km); Kavala (210km); To Limnos (100km) Cape Sigri Drota Paralia Rahidi Drota Paleohori Panagia Kryfti Drota 0 0 Sigri A E G E A N Moni Ypsilou Melinda Cape Fournia Eresos 615m Melinda Old Olive Mill Amaxo Old Flour Milos Mill Old Mill Kournela Selandas 2 km 1 miles Lapsarna Andissa Petrified Forest Skala Eresou Hrousas S E A Agra Old Mill Plomari Agios Isidoros Agios Isidoros Mithymna (Molyvos) Skalohori Filia Moni Limonos Vatousa Lesvos Tavari Cape Molyvos Agios Georgios Petra 799m Parakila Gulf of Kalloni Prize winning poet Odysseus Elytis and primitive painter Theofilos, the island has given birth to artists of genius. Under the great ancient philosophers Aristotle and Epicurus, an exceptional philosophical academy flourished on the island. Most famous, however, is Sappho, one of ancient Greece s greatest poets. Her sensuous, passionate poetry, apparently created for a select group of female devotees, has fuelled a modern-day cult that draws lesbians from around the world to pay homage to the poet in Skala Eresou, the west Lesvos beach village where she was born around 630 BC. Appropriately enough, the stark natural beauty that inspired all these artists and thinkers itself derived from a great event: a massive prehistoric volcanic eruption that buried and transformed its surroundings, making western Lesvos into a treasury of prehistoric fossils and gems, and the only place outside of the USA with a petrified forest. Indeed, it is the natural abundance that primarily draws visitors. Hiking the idyllic southern olive groves as well as bird-watching Eftalou Sykaminia Mt Lepetymnos (968m) Vafios Klio Petra Pelopi Petri Kapi Anaxos Mantamados Stypsi Polyhnitos Lisvorio Spa Kalloni Skala Kalloni Lisvorio Vryssa Temple Vatera of Dionysos Cape Agios Fokas Polyhnitos Spa Skala Sykaminias Agia Paraskevi Ahladeri Kato Stavros Mesa Sanctuary Mt Olympus (968m) Akrassio See enlargement Cape Korakas Moni Taxiarhon Agiasos Paleokipos Plomari 0 10 km 0 6 miles Cape Tsakmaki Tomaronisia Islands Moni Agios Rafail Pappados Straits of Mytilini Skala Kidonion Pamfylla Moria Loutra Yera T U R K E Y To Ayvalîk (Turkey) (5km) ParaliaThermi Pyrgi Thermi Mytilini Gulf of Yera Varia Loutra Perama Skala Loutron Agios Ermogenis Airport Niseli Cape Makeas Haramida To Chios (100km); Tarti Piraeus (320km) the island is the transit point and home to over 279 species of birds ranging from raptors to waders are both very popular. Lesvos long coastline, hardly touched by package tourism, is dotted with therapeutic hot springs and pristine beaches. The island s festive nature, visible in the chic cafés and restaurants of the capital, Mytilini, comes to life with the midsummer panigyria, dating back distantly to Lesvos passionate pagan past, with plenty of food, drink and music, as well as the racing of beautifully girded horses and the odd bull sacrifice. Getting There & Away A I R Olympic Airlines (% ; Kavetsou 44), in Mytilini town, offers four flights daily to Athens ( 76) and one daily to Thessaloniki ( 87). There are two flights weekly to both Chios ( 32) and Samos ( 41), and five to Limnos ( 46) and Rhodes ( 58). Aegean Airlines (% ; has three daily flights to Athens ( 68, one hour) and one to Thessaloniki ( 84, one hour 10 minutes); its office is at the airport, which is 8km south of Mytilini town. An airport taxi costs 7 to 8. To Heraklio in Crete, Sky Express has flights on Friday and Sunday ( 119); buy tickets from Picolo Travel Tourism (% ; Pavlou Kountourioti 73a). FERRY Domestic In summer NEL Lines goes daily to Piraeus ( 35.60, 12 hours) via Chios ( 14.60, three hours). Hellenic Seaways has a faster daily ferry to Piraeus ( 38.10, 8½ hours), again via Chios ( 18, two hours). Two ferries weekly serve Kavala ( 26.90, 10 hours), via Limnos ( 18.40, six hours). One boat weekly goes to Thessaloniki ( 37, 13 hours), also via Limnos, and one weekly ferry serves Alexandroupoli ( 21.50, nine hours). Ferry ticket offices on the eastern side of Pavlou Kountourioti include Zoumboulis Tours (% ; Pavlou Kountourioti 69) and Samiotis Tours (% ; fax ; Pavlou Kountourioti 43). International In summer two daily ferries go to Ayvalık, Turkey ( 35, one hour 15 minutes). Getting Around BUS From Mytilini s long-distance bus station (% ; El Venizelou), near Agias Irinis Park, there are two daily buses to Skala Eresou ( 8, 2½ hours) via Eresos, five to Mithymna (Molyvos; 5.90, 1¾ hours) via Petra ( 5.50, 1½ hours), and one to Sigri ( 8, 2½ hours). Five daily buses go to Plomari ( 3.90, 1¼ hours) and four to Vatera ( 5.30, 1½ hours), the latter via Polyhnitos. Travelling between these smaller places often requires changing buses in central Kalloni, which receives five daily buses from Mytilini ( 3.90, one hour). CAR & MOTORCYCLE Mytilini s international rental chains include Hertz (% ; Pavlou Kountourioti 87), though Holiday Rent-a-Car (% ; Arhipelagous 21) is also good. Scooters and motorcycles are available along Pavlou Kountourioti. FERRY In summer there are half-hourly ferries across the Gulf of Yera ( 1, five minutes), between Perama and Koundouroudia, near Loutra south of Mytilini town. Buses to Mytilini meet these ferries. MYTILINI TOWN ΜΥΤΙΛΗΝΗ pop 27,247 Easygoing Mytilini, the port of Lesvos, is kept lively year-round thanks to its capital status and irrepressible student population. The laid-back attitude to life in Mytilini reflects ingrained political preferences (Lesvos was long a bastion of the left), but even more so, perhaps, its love of food, drink and the arts on an island known eternally for its poets and painters, its olive oil and wine. As with most Greek port towns, the action is centred on the waterfront; however, Mytilini boasts bigger attractions than the average island capital. It is interspersed with palm-fringed churches, grand 19th-century mansions and several museums, the most remarkable being the Teriade, boasting paintings by Picasso, Chagall and Matisse. Handmade ceramics, jewellery and traditional products are available on and around the main shopping street, Ermou, and epicureans will be delighted by the town s many fine ouzeries. Mytilini s student-fuelled nightlife, concentrated around the waterfront bars, carries on during summer and winter, too. NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

316 620 LESVOS (MYTILINI) Mytilini Town Book accommodation online at LESVOS (MYTILINI) Mytilini Town 621 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS Orientation Ferries dock on the northern end of Mytilini s long and curving waterfront thoroughfare, Pavlou Kountourioti. Further up and along the thoroughfare is Sapphou (where a statue of Sappho stands); many restaurants, cafés and hotels are nearby. The main shopping street, Ermou, links this southern harbour with the ancient, but now disused, northern port. East of the harbours, a large mediaeval fortress stands surrounded by pines. Both bus stations are centrally located: the long-distance bus station is next to Agias Irinis Park and the local bus station is on Pavlou Kountourioti, near Sapphou. The airport is 8km south on the coast road. MYTILINI TOWN Theofrastou Zalongou 5 Aishilou To Plomari (42km); Mithymna (62km) Romanou Melodou Apostoli 34 Sarfous 10 Vournazon Kavetsou 6 14 Agias Irinis Park El Venizelou Kyparision 33 Lesvonaktos Navmahias Ellis Pittakou Pavlou Kountourioti 19 2 To Loutra (5km); Skala Loutron (8km); Hellenic Culture Centre (8km); Hotel Zaira (8km); Museum of the Memorial of the Refugees of Asia Minor (8km); es of Agios Ermogenis, Haramida, and Niseli (17km) Sapphou Ermou Mitropoleos Arhipelagos Southern Harbour Hristougennon 1944 Adramytiou Komninaki Vernardaki 3 30 Commercial Bank To Tahiarhis (2km); O Antonis (2km); Varia (4km); Teriade & Theofilos Museums (4km); Kohilia (7km); Airport (8km) Tsertseti Aristarhou 1 Information Numerous banks and ATMs line Pavlou Kountourioti. Bostaneio General Hospital (% ; E Bostani 48) EOT (% ; Aristarhou 6; h9am-1pm Mon-Fri) InSpot (% ; Hristougennon ; per hr 2.40) Internet access. National Bank of Greece (Pavlou Kountourioti) Has an ATM. Port police (% ) Next to Picolo Travel Tourism. Post office (Vournazon) West of the waterfront. Sfetoudi Bookshop (% ; Ermou 51) Sells good maps from Greece s leading Road Editions series; books on Lesvos include 39 Coffee Houses and a Barber s Noemvriou 9 Path Skra Fortress to 12 Argiri Eftalioti Quay Fortress 11 INFORMATION EOT... 1 C3 Inspot Internet Cafe... 2 B3 National Bank of Greece... 3 B3 Port Police... 4 B3 Post Office... 5 A3 Sfetoudi Bookshop... 6 A3 Tourist Police... 7 C3 Zoumboulis Tours... 8 B m miles SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Archaeological Museum... 9 C3 Byzantine Museum A3 Church of Agios Therapon...(see 10) Entrance to Fortress C1 New Archaeological Museum C2 SLEEPING Hotel Sappho B2 New Life Rooms A2 Pension Thalia B1 Porto Lesvos Hotel B2 Vazakas Rooms B2 Zoumboulis Tours...(see 8) EATING Kalderimi B2 Lemoni kai Prasino Straits Piperi B3 of O Diavlos... Mytilini 20 B2 Ouranos B1 Stou Mihali B2 DRINKING Hot Spot B3 Monkey Bar B2 Mousiko Kafenio B2 Ocean B2 To Navagio B2 SHOPPING Lesvos Shop B2 TRANSPORT Ferries to Piraeus & Chios.. 29 C3 Hertz B3 Holiday Rent-a-Car B2 Local Bus Station B2 Long-Distance Bus Station.. 33 A4 Olympic Airlines A4 Picolo Travel Tourism B3 Samiotis Tours B2 Zoumboulis Tours...(see 8) Shop, a beautiful photo narrative by eminent local photographer Jelly Hadjidimitriou. Tourist police (% ) On the quay. Information on Lesvos. Zoumboulis Tours (% ; Pavlou Kountourioti 69) Sells ferry and plane tickets, runs boat trips to Turkey and rents rooms. Sights & Activities Mytilini s imposing, early Byzantine fortress (adult/student 2/1; h8am-2.30pm Tue-Sun) was renovated in the 14th century by Genoese overlord Francisco Gatelouzo, and later the Turks enlarged it again. It s popular for a stroll and the surrounding pine forest is perfect for picnics. The archaeological museum (% ; adult/child 3/2; h8am-7.30pm), one block north of the quay, has impressive finds from Neolithic to Roman times, including ceramic, somersaulting female figurines and gold jewellery. The ticket grants entry to the new archaeological museum (8 Noemvriou; h8am-7.30pm), 400m away, which portrays island life from the 2nd century BC to the 3rd century AD. Spectacular floor mosaics under glass are among the highlights here. The bulbous dome of the Church of Agios Therapon crowns Mytilini s skyline, and is visible from almost everywhere on the waterfront. The church s ornate interior boasts a huge chandelier, an intricately carved iconostasis, priest s throne and a frescoed dome. The Byzantine Museum (% ; admission 2; h9am-1pm) in the church s courtyard has valuable icons. TERIADE & THEOPHILOS MUSEUMS From the northernmost section of Pavlou Kountourioti, take a local bus 4km south of Mytilini to the village of Varia, where an unexpected treasure awaits: the Teriade Museum (% ; adult/student 2/1; h9am-5pm Tue- Sun), with its astonishing collection of paintings by world-renowned artists like Picasso, Chagall, Miro, Le Corbusier and Matisse. The museum honours the Lesvos-born artist and critic Stratis Eleftheriadis, who Gallicised his name to Teriade in Paris. Teriade was instrumental in bringing the work of primitive painter and fellow Lesvos native Theophilos to international attention. The Theofilos Museum (% ; admission 2; h9am-2.30pm & 6-8pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, 9am-1pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sun Oct & Apr, 9am-2pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar), located next door, houses works commissioned by Teriade; several prestigious Greek museums and galleries display other more famous paintings of Theophilos, whose story followed the old pattern of many a great artist living in abject poverty, painting coffee-house walls for his daily bread and eventually dying in the gutter. Sleeping BUDGET Budget accommodation in Mytilini is scarce. Zoumboulis Tours (% ; Pavlou Kountourioti 69; r from 35) The travel agency rents simple, air-conditioned rooms. Pension Thalia (% ; Kinikiou 1; d 35) This friendly, family-run pension has cheery, clean rooms on a side street behind Ermou. There s not always someone at the door, so call in advance. MIDRANGE Hotel Sappho (% ; sappho@microchip.gr; Pavlou Kountourioti 31; s/d/t 35/50/60; a) The default option on the waterfront, the Sappho is a somewhat staid, older hotel with the necessary amenities and, fortunately for late-night ferry arrivees, 24-hour reception. The harbor-side location means it gets street noise. Vazakas Rooms (% ; Bizaniou 17; d/tr 50/60; a) Once a budget choice, these domatia on the 2nd floor of a family house offer variety; some have balconies, others a kitchenette. All are clean and well maintained. It s just off Ermou, though it can be hard to find. New Life Rooms (% ; Ermou 68; s/d/t 30/50/70) Although the bristly green carpet out the front could come from a miniature-golf course, the recently redecorated rooms are bright and well furnished. The hotel, which also has a new outdoor bar, is central but quietly set on a side street. Porto Lesvos Hotel (% ; lesvos.gr; Komninaki 21; s/d 60/80; a) Although the red carpets are a bit frumpy, and the rooms snug, some have panoramic views of Mytilini. The décor involves stone set in plaster. In its zeal to be a real hotel, the Porto Lesvos offers toiletries, bathrobe and slippers. Eating The ouzeries listed in this section all have the seal of approval from local ouzo expert Leftheris Eleftheriadis (see boxed text, p622 ). NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

317 622 LESVOS (MYTILINI) Mytilini Town LESVOS (MYTILINI) South of Mytilini 623 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS O Antonis (Tahiarhis; mezedhes 3-5;hMon-Sat) An institution with the locals, this simple ouzerie is 2km from the town centre, on a breezy hill top offering sublime views of the sea and Mytilini town. Try the koutavakia (fried baby shark), sardines and kolios (mackerel). O Antonis has only a few tables, and fills up on weekends and after 8pm. Stou Mihali (% ; Ikarias 7, Sapphou; mains ;h9am-9pm) It s getting hard to find a free table at lunch at this tasty and inexpensive place serving mayirefta. Unlike many other such eateries, here you can combine half-portions and thus enjoy more variety. Everything is good; try the soutzoukakia (tomato-soaked beef rissoles), imam baïldi (roast eggplant) and Greek salad. oo Diavlos (% ; Ladadika 30; mezedhes 3-6) What first attracts the eye in this unique ouzerie set in a lofty, woodbeamed building is the artwork lining the walls. Monthly exhibits show off local artists works, which diners can purchase; might the next Theophilos be discovered here? However, aside from being an art lover, Diavlos owner Panayiotis Molyviatis crafts what might AN OUZO EDUCATION just be the most satisfying and nourishing mezedhes in all of Lesvos. Local specialities include giouslemes (a crunchy cheese pie) and sfongatoa (a sort of oven-baked cake made of zucchini, egg, onion and cheese). Also try the Turkish-flavoured beef kebabs on pitta bread with onions and yiaourtlou kebab (Greek yogurt). Music ranges from relaxed to rembetika (blues songs). Ouranos (% ; Navmahias Ellis; mezedhes 3-6) A popular ouzerie that looks across at Turkey from a breezy patio on the ancient northern port. Tempting mezedhes include kolokythoanthi (fried pumpkin flowers stuffed with rice), ladotyri mytilinis (the oildrenched local cheese) and hefty servings of some of the most enormous calamari in the Mediterranean. Kalderimi (% ; Thasou 3; mezedhes , mains 7-10) Inconspicuously set on a shaded side lane, Kalderimi is another popular Mytilini ouzerie; try the tasty salted mackerel and sardines and fried zucchini flowers. Lemoni kai Prasino Piperi (% ; cnr Pavlou Kountourioti & Hristougennon 1944; mains 10-15;h7pm-1am) The poshest place in town, this A few years ago the young Mytilene cartographer Leftheris Eleftheriadis was looking for a book on Greece s great national aperitif, ouzo. A man of Hemingwayesque appetites, Eleftheriadis was disappointed to find there was none; and so, along with friend Stathiadis Georgiadis, he embarked on a three-year odyssey around Greece in which the two imbibed more than 500 kinds of the aniseed-flavoured firewater all in the name of research. In their well-illustrated new book, Ouzo: The Greek Spirit (ROAD Editions, 2007), the authors catalogue every conceivable detail about all of Greece s ouzo producers, the history behind the drink, and the peculiar, secretive genius of the ouzo makers, who combine some 25 different ingredients in various proportions to concoct their own distinctive blends. Unsurprisingly, some of the most unique ouzos the authors discovered were from Lesvos, which produces approximately 70% of Greece s ouzo, and half of all ouzo sold in the world. One small distillery, Pitsiladi from Plomari the southern Lesvos capital of ouzo follows a unique method. Its anise seeds are stuffed in a sack and then stored in the sea for a few days before they are added to the ouzo; the result is a slightly salty and strengthened taste. In general, says Eleftheriadis, the island ouzos are slightly more full bodied than the mainland Greek ouzos. But they all have their own idiosyncratic tastes and special foods that go with them. The well-fed authors found this out while sampling local mezedhes all over Greece and stealing the recipes from little old ladies. The ouzo makers, on the other hand, weren t about to share their secret recipes with us, jokes Leftheris. Nevertheless, he can disclose some Greek customs for the better enjoyment of ouzo. Before opening the bottle, you should slap it three times on the bottom to hurt it so it won t hurt you, he says. And then wave it in a circle three times, so it won t make you dizzy. Then it s ready to drink. The ouzeries listed in the Mytilini Eating section ( p621 ) have all received the Leftheris Eleftheriadis seal of approval. upstairs restaurant has great waterfront views and even better food, especially the Italian dishes. Try the simple yet exquisite tomato and mozzarella salad and tagliatelle amatriciana or tagliatelle alfredo with salmon. As expected, the wine list is deep; the Mexican offerings, however, remain somewhat of an unknown commodity. Drinking Most of Mytilini s cafés are strung together along the waterfront and double as bars at night, their blaring intermingled music creating a veritable cacophony for those sitting outdoors. Mousiko Kafenio (cnr Mitropoleos & Vernardaki; h7.30am-2am) This relaxed, arty student café just in from the waterfront is full of colour, with eclectic paintings, mirrors and well-worn wooden fixtures. To Navagio (% ; Arhipelagous 23) A popular café-bar on Sapphou with comfy couches, perfect for a leisurely backgammon game and coffee. Ocean 11 (% ; cnr Arhipelogous & Pavlou Kountourioti; h7am-3am) This breezy patio café offers sweet frozen coffees by day, and becomes a slick and shiny bar by night. Monkey Bar (% ; Pavlou Kountourioti; h10am-3am) A big, thumping, packed nightspot on the water. Hot Spot (%Pavlou Kountourioti; h10am-2am Mar- Oct) This intimate student bar has a warmer feel than its neighbours and plays more rock and roll. Shopping Lesvos Shop (% ; Pavlou Kountourioti 33) This waterfront shop near the Hotel Sappho has all of Lesvos distinctive natural products, from ouzos and olive oil and soap to jams, handmade ceramics, and local wine and cheese. Proceeds benefit the municipality. Getting There & Away Mytilini s local bus station (Pavlou Kountourioti), near Sapphou, serves destinations within the town and nearby Loutra, Skala Loutron and Tahiarhis. All other buses depart from the long-distance bus station (% ; El Venizelou) near Agias Irinis Park. SOUTH OF MYTILINI Although it gets relatively few tourists, the small, olive-groved peninsula south of Mytilini has several unique attractions. A long pebble beach 7km south on the coastal road opposite the airport hosts a decadent beach bar, Kohilia (% ;h8am-3am). Pulsating with house and techno music, and frequented by swimsuited students lounging on colourful couches and four-poster beds, Kohilia is a chilled-out hang-out on summer days; by night, however, it attracts several hundred young pleasure seekers who spill from the bar onto the beach, and sometimes into the water. Somewhat quieter and more educational is the fishing village of Skala Loutron, 8km southwest of Mytilini on the Gulf of Yera. Here the Hellenic Culture Center (% , in Athens ; 2-week courses 650) conducts intensive summer Greek-language courses, which attract students from the world over. Lessons are enhanced by cultural adventures, such as Greek singing and cooking classes, as well as by beach trips, olive-grove hikes and excursions to Turkey. Class sizes are deliberately small (25 students or less) and professional childcare is provided. The course is held in a century-old oliveoil factory near the harbour, which has been restored quite splendidly into the Hotel Zaira (% ; Skala Loutron; s/d 42/54), distinguished by lofty wood beams, nice stonework and home-cooked Greek food. Independent travellers can stay, too. Also in Skala Loutron is the new Museum of the Memorial of the Refugees of 1922 (% ; admission free;h5-8pm), which commemorates the lost Greek culture of Anatolia, abruptly cut short by the population exchanges that occurred between Greece and Turkey in 1923 after the failed Greek offensive in Asia Minor. The museum features the photographs, documents, handmade clothes and silverwork of the refugees, as well as large wall maps showing over 2000 Anatolian villages that had been populated by Greeks until 1922 and the places in Greece where the refugees were resettled. To arrange a special visit outside regular opening hours, ask at the Hotel Zaira. Continuing 9km further south brings you to the peninsula s end, and the popular sand-and-pebble Agios Ermogenis and Haramida. The eastern stretch of the latter, Niseli, is secluded under a bluff and separated by a headland from the main beach. What s more, the local community NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

318 624 LESVOS (MYTILINI) Northern Lesvos Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at LESVOS (MYTILINI) Northern Lesvos 625 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS provides camping (camp sites free), with toilets and showers, under a quiet canopy of pines on the bluff above the beach. The camping ground is located near the lovably eccentric Karpouzi Kantina (% ), a drinks-andsnacks wagon named after its mascot an old skiff, painted to look like a giant watermelon. Enthusiastic owner Fanis also oversees the camping ground. NORTHERN LESVOS With its rolling hills garbed in pine and olive trees, peaceful beaches and the aesthetically harmonious traditional town of Mithymna (usually called by its old name, Molyvos), northern Lesvos has only partially revealed its secrets. While its olive-rich heritage is now being commemorated in Agia Paraskevi s new museum, tourism remains largely limited to Mythimna (Molyvos) and its low-key beach resort of Petra, along with other attractive beaches like Skala Sykaminias and hot springs. There s plenty of bucolic authenticity in the villages surrounding Mt Lepetymnos, and off the northeast coast lie the enigmatic, unvisited Tomaronisia islands. Mithymna (Molyvos) Μήθυμνα (Μόλυβος) pop 1497 While northern Lesvos largest town has officially reverted to its ancient name of Mithymna, you re better off calling it Molyvos, as the locals do. This lovingly preserved town of narrow cobbled lanes and stone houses with jutting wooden balconies exemplifies traditional architecture of the Ottomans, under whose rule the town was politically and economically important. A relaxed stroll in the little streets of the upper town, crowned by a grand 14th-century Byzantine castle, gives a sense of those bygone times, while a dip in the invigorating north Lesvos waters down at the pebble-beached harbour at sunset is a perfect way to cap the day. ORIENTATION The bus stops on the main north south road bisecting the town. Below this road is the waterfront, with a beach, several hotels and restaurants, and cafés on the northern end. Above the central road begins the upper town, consisting of narrow, winding streets, where some of the most atmospheric accommodation and restaurants are located. The so-called agora (market), clustered with tourist shops, is further up. Above this is the castle. INFORMATION The National Bank of Greece, with an ATM, stands by the municipal tourist office. The Commercial Bank booth opposite also has an ATM. Central Internet Café (per hr 4.40) On the port road. Medical Centre (% ) Municipal tourist office (% ) A small office on the left of Kastrou, between the bus stop and the fork in the central road. Post office (Kastrou) Along the left of the street. SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Mithymna (Molyvos) is all about wandering, with its little streets in the upper town lined with bright-shuttered, traditional stone houses wreathed in flowers. The town s crowning achievement, the ruined 14th-century Byzantine-Genoese castle (% ; admission 2; h8.30am-7pm Tue-Sun) stands guard over all from the top of the town; the steep climb is repaid by sweeping views of the town and the sea and Turkey shimmering on the horizon. Back in the 15th century, before Lesvos fell to the Turks, it was Genoese property and a feisty Italian woman called Onetta d Oria, wife of the governor, repulsed an onslaught by the Turks by putting on her husband s armour and leading the people into battle from the castle. In summer a drama festival takes place here; ask the municipal tourist office for information. Those seeking superlative beaches can take an excursion boat at 10.30am daily for Petra, Skala Sykaminias and Eftalou. Prices start at 20, and sunset cruises and boat safaris are also available. Inquire with Faonas Travel (% ; tekes@otenet.gr) at the port. Eftalou beach also has the baths of Eftalou (old bathhouse/new bathhouse 3.50/5;hold bathhouse 6am-8am & 6-10pm, new bathhouse 9am-6pm), with their clear, cathartic 46.5 C water. The old bathhouse has a pebbled floor; the new one offers private bathtubs. These springs treat rheumatism, arthritis, neuralgia, hypertension, gall stones, and gynaecological and skin problems. SLEEPING Budget Over 50 registered, good-quality domatia exist in Mithymna (Molyvos). Look for signs, or arrange through the municipal tourist office. Municipal Camping Mithymna (% ; camp sites per adult/tent 5.50/3; hjun-sep) This publicly run camping ground occupies an excellent shady site 1.5km from town and is signposted from near the municipal tourist office. If arriving before or after high season, call to ensure it s open. Nassos Guest House (% , ; Arionos; s/d 20/35) A fun, informal guesthouse with an international clientele and real personality, this refurbished Turkish mansion features brightly painted, though small, rooms with lovely little balconies overlooking the harbour. Bathrooms are separate. Tom, the affable Dutch manager, is unfailingly helpful, and also sells a useful book on local hiking routes for 8. Captain s View (% ; meltheo@otenet. gr; house ; a) This restored old house is ideal for groups of friends or families, with its well-equipped kitchen, spacious balcony and lounge. The house has two bedrooms and a loft, and sleeps up to six people. There are no minimum-stay requirements, but book in advance in summer. Midrange Amfitriti Hotel (% ; fax ; s/d/tr incl breakfast 55/80/95; as) Just 50m from the beach, this snazzy traditional stone hotel has modern, tiled rooms and a refreshing garden pool. It fills up fast and deals with package tourists, but independent travellers are welcome. Hotel Olive Press (% ; -hotel.com; d with/without seaview 100/70; as) A converted olive-oil factory located on the beach, the Hotel Olive Press can get booked out by Northern European package tourists, though independent travellers are welcomed warmly, too. The rooms are very well done; especially evocative are those with balconies hanging out almost over the sea. With advance notice, pick-up can be arranged from Mytilini. Hotel Sea Horse (% ; d incl breakfast 75; a) A good choice down on the harbour, the renovated Sea Horse is a friendly place with bright, breezy rooms and balconies overlooking the cafés and fishing boats. The hotel s small travel agency can arrange day trips and ferry tickets. Unlike other local hotels, it often has vacancies in August, since package groups arrive in September. EATING & DRINKING Betty s (% ; 17 Noemvriou; mains 6-8) Look for the glossy-red overhanging balcony in this restored Turkish pasha s residence on the village s upper streets to find the best local cooking. Tasty tyropitakia, savoury lamb souvlaki and baked eggplant with cheese are recommended; what really stand out, however, are unusual seafood specialities, such as Betty s spaghetti shrimp. Captain s Table (% ; mezedhes 3-5, mains 7-10;hdinner) It might seem a bit gimmicky, but this fish-and-mezedhes place at the far end of the harbour has great seafood and unusual mezedhes, like the Ukrainianinspired adjuka (spicy eggplant). Molly s Bar (% ;h6pm-late) With its thick-painted walls and blue stars, beaded curtains and bottled Guinness, this whimsical, British-run bar is always in ship-shape condition. Molly s caters to an older and international crowd, and is located on the waterfront s far eastern side. Petra Πέτρα pop 1246 Petra, 5km south of Mithymna (Molyvos), has become a popular, though low-key, resort. While its sandy beach and seafront square are attractive enough, bland souvenir shops outnumber Petra s few remaining traditional stone houses. Nevertheless, Petra does have some unique sights, such as the enormous rock for which the village is named that looms behind it. Atop it is the 18th-century Panagia Glykofilousa (Church of the Sweet-Kissing Virgin), accessible on foot up 114 rock-hewn steps. The village of Petri, to the east, has characteristic old kafeneia and features excellent views of Petra and the sea. Petra has a post office, an OTE, a bank, medical facilities and bus connections. The refurbished Turkish mansion known as Vareltzidaina s House (admission free; h8am-7pm Tue-Sun) is between the rock and the waterfront. Locals can provide directions. For accommodation, excursions, boat and air tickets, visit the centrally located Petra Tours (% ; petratours@otenet.gr). Independent travellers should head straight to the Women s Agricultural Tourism Cooperative (% ; womes@otenet.gr; s/d around 20), which works with Petra s 100 or so private rooms, ranging from studios to renovated farmhouses. The restaurant in which it s NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

319 626 LESVOS (MYTILINI) Western Lesvos Book accommodation online at LESVOS (MYTILINI) Western Lesvos 627 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS COMRADES OF THE OLIVE In the Lesvos of yesteryear there was no bachelor more eligible than an olive-soap purveyor; a woman working in an olive-oil factory, on the other hand, risked getting a reputation for being in the company of strange men at a time when public appearances were meant to be restricted to the company of family. These and other unexpected facts such as that all of Lesvos olive trees are of Turkish provenance, a great frost in 1850 having destroyed the trees existing until then are presented with aplomb at the new Museum of Industrial Olive Oil Production in Lesvos (% ; Agia Paraskevi; adult 3, student & child 1.50;h10am-6pm Wed-Mon). This remarkable museum, housed in a restored communal oil mill and stocked with vintage machinery, tells the history of Lesvos olive-oil production in Greek and English, showing the vital role of local cooperation and the gruelling physical labour involved with the olive trade. The museum is located in the dusty agricultural village of Agia Paraskevi, until the Greek Civil War the economic centre of inland Lesvos. The villagers communist sympathies, however, led the right-wing government to punish the village by relocating major public services to previously insignificant Kalloni. The new museum, funded by the Bank of Piraeus, goes a small way towards rectifying Agia Paraskevi s loss. To reach the museum from the main Mytilini Kalloni road, take the Agia Paraskevi turn-off for 3.5km; the museum is on the left. It s not terribly well signposted, so if you reach the town centre, you ve gone too far. based, Syneterismos (% ; fax ; mains 4-7), features an ever-changing array of specials. Portions are hearty and homecooked, with friendly service. WESTERN LESVOS Spectacular, lonesome western Lesvos is the afterthought of massive, primeval volcanic eruptions that fossilised trees and all other living things, making it one of the world s most intriguing sites for today s prehistoric treasure hunters. The striking, bare landscape, only broken by craggy boulders and the occasional olive tree, is very different from the rest of Lesvos. Byzantine spiritualists in their high monastic refuges were inspired by the barren, burnt moonscapes of the west, and well before them, a certain Sappho, the 7th-century BC poet who was dubbed the tenth muse by Plato, reflected on the powerful simplicity of this environment in her taut verse. Such was the power of her literary seduction that even the usually level-headed ancient ruler Solon despaired that he too must be taught Sappho s song, because he wanted to learn it and die. However, it is the sensuous, erotic nature of Sappho s surviving poems, and the fact that she probably taught them to an inner circle of female companions, that made Sappho into a latter-day lesbian icon. Today the southwestern coastal resort of Skala Eresou is a haven for lesbians from the world over, though its fine beaches and sunset cocktail bars have a more general clientele. Although there are a few buses, it s best to rent a car to travel around Western Lesvos. Kalloni to Sigri Καλλονή προς Σίγρι After driving 34km west from Kalloni on the main road, the best place for a coffee or lunch break is Andissa, a jovial, rustic village kept cool by the two enormous plane trees that stand over its central stone plateia. Listen to the crickets and the banter of old-timers over a Greek coffee or frappe, while farmers hawk watermelons from the back of their trucks. Continue west for 9km and you ll find, at the top of a lone peak surrounded by volcanic plains, the Byzantine Monastery of Ypsilou (admission free;h7.30am-10pm). Founded in the 8th century, this storied place includes a flowering arched courtyard, a sumptuously decorated church, and a small but spectacular museum with gold and silver reliquaries, antique liturgical vestments, centuries-old icons and Byzantine manuscripts dating back to the 10th century. From the top of the stairs, there are magnificent views of the desolate ochre plains stretching out against the sea. After the monastery, continue on the main road west for 4km, and turn left at a signposted road for another 4.9km to reach Lesvos celebrated petrified forest (% ; admission 2; h8am-5pm), which could be more honestly described as a petrified desert. The 20-million-year-old stumps that decorate this baking, shadeless valley are few and far between, though experts insist many more lurk under the ground, waiting to be dug up. The best specimens have been relocated to the Natural History Museum of the Lesvos Petrified Forest (% ; admission 5;h8.30am-8pm Mon-Thu & Sat-Sun, until 10pm Fri) in Sigri, a coastal village 7km to the west of the forest. This engaging modern museum manages to make old rocks and dusty fossils interesting, helped by interactive displays and a veritable motherlode of glittering amethyst, quartz and other semiprecious stones. Tucked below the museum in a sheltered cove is sleepy Sigri, a fishing port whose fortunes have waned with the discontinuation of ferries. The village has beautiful sea views, especially at sunset, and there are idyllic, rarely visited stretches of sand just southwest. A good-quality dirt coastal road pointing south out of the village passes these beaches and leads, after 45 minutes of magnificent scenery, to Skala Eresou, western Lesvos most popular destination. Skala Eresou Σκάλα Ερεσού pop 1560 The key Lesvos experience for many is Skala Eresou, a bohemian beach town where the lesbian internationale meets to invoke the spirit of Sappho, much to the bemusement of local elders and much to the excitement of their teenaged grandsons. Its 2km-long beach is one of several exceptional nearby beaches, and is why (along with the fresh seafood and nightlife) the village is starting to attract a more mainstream clientele. Nevertheless, Skala Eresou remains a freespirited place, especially lively during the Women Together festival each September. ORIENTATION & INFORMATION The central square of Anthis and Evristhenous abuts the waterfront; the beach extends on both sides. Most restaurants and bars are found here, the latter on the eastern side of the plateia. Behind the plateia is the Church of Agias Andreas. Further west along Gyrinnis are the post office, the OTE, shops, an ATM and Sappho Travel. The village now has a doctor (% ;h24hr). The experienced Sappho Travel (% ; is Skala Eresou s main agency for travel information and tickets, accommodation, currency exchange and car rental. It organises sunset cruises for women and the increasingly popular Women Together festival. Held every September, this event has a worldwide reach, now attracting upwards of 400 women for two weeks of workshops, music, art, therapies and socialising. Book two months ahead if you want to stay in September. SIGHTS Eresos archaeological museum contains Greek and Roman antiquities, but remained closed at the time of writing. It s near the exposed remains of the early Christian Basilica of Agios Andreas, which has partially intact 5th-century mosaics worthy of a peek. SLEEPING Skala Eresou has several reasonable domatia options, as well as some hotels that are steadily getting pricier. Some places that used to be women-only options have gone metro sexual, though two currently remain just for women. Domatia Maria Pantermou (% ; pantermou@in.gr; s/d/t 15/25/30;a) Dedicated budget travellers should find the lighthearted old couple Marianthi and Giorgios Pantermou, who operate these domatia on a back street across from the Mascot Hotel. While small and dated, rooms are clean and have balconies. The proprieters don t speak English, but their daughter (she who checketh the ) does. Hotel Antiopi (% ; s/d 30/50) A women-only hotel that benefitted when the Hotel Sappho went co-ed, the Antiopi has well-maintained but slightly cramped rooms that might strike one as either kitsch and cool or too cute. Mascot Hotel (% ; s/d 30/60; a) The Mascot Hotel has taken up the mantle from the Hotel Sappho, fostering a bohemian air among its all-women clientele. A few blocks back from the beach, it features 10 snug modern rooms with balconies and a friendly staff. Book through Sappho Travel (% ; NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

320 628 LESVOS (MYTILINI) Southern Lesvos LESVOS (MYTILINI) Southern Lesvos 629 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS Hotel Sappho (% ; s/d 40/60; h1 April 1-15 Oct;a) The Sappho was the village s first women-only hotel, but under new management has taken a more staid and ecumenical approach, the wild girl-on-girl parties now a thing of the past. The hotel s once-famous restaurant has devolved into a bar. While it has thus lost some street credibility among the lesbian set, the Sappho still has a prime waterfront setting, smartly appointed rooms and free internet for guests. Hotel Galini (% /74; fax ; s/d/ tr 35/45/60) This family-run hotel about 100m from the beach on the eastern side of town has rooms that are clean and modern but, price considered, a bit uninspiring. There is a flower garden outside and the staff is helpful. EATING Skala Eresou s best restaurants and liveliest bars are above the beach. The ambience is enhanced by the sound of lapping waves. On clear days Chios emerges on the horizon. Soulatso (% ; mains 6-10) After choosing a waterfront table on Soulatso s beachfront patio, walk in to inspect the day s catches. Among them are usually red mullet, lobster and sea bream, and all will be expertly cooked and presented. Also recommended are the crab salad, stuffed kalamari (calamari/ squid) and mussels with wine. Eressos Palace (% ; mains 6-10) Another place known for seafood, like fisherman s souvlaki and oil-marinated tuna, this solid choice on the west end of town also does great meat and vegetable dishes and purveys local Eressos cheese. DRINKING Skala Eresou s nightlife consists of several bars strung along the eastern waterfront. First, along the main plateia, is the Tenth Muse (% ), an old favourite of females strong on fruit drinks, Haagen-Dazs ice cream and conviviality. The orangelanterned Parasol (% ), further down on the waterfront, whips up tropical cocktails that match its South-Seas décor. A nightspot more popular with young Greeks is the ever-so-slick Breez (% ; Finally, furthest down on the eastern waterfront, Zorba the Buddha (% ) is a colourful, easygoing watering hole above the water, where revellers sometimes head for a midnight swim. SOUTHERN LESVOS Endless groves of olive trees mixed with pine roll from the flanks of Mt Olympus (968m), southern Lesvos highest peak, right down to the sea, where the island s premier beaches lie. This is a hot, intensely agricultural place where the vital olive-oil, wine and ouzo industries overshadow tourism. Southern Lesvos has thus retained authenticity in its villages and solitude on its beaches, a state of affairs that should prevail well into the future. The first large southern village is Agiasos. On the northern side of Mt Olympus, Agiasos is a picturesque, popular day-trip destination known for its local artisanry. Everything from handcrafted furniture to pottery is sold here. Agiasos Church of the Panagia Vrefokratousa hosts a Byzantine Museum and Popular Museum. The road south to the coast leads to Plomari, the centre of Lesvos ouzo industry and an attractive seaside village in its own right, with a large, palm-lined plateia and waterfront tavernas. Most visitors stay, however, at the beach settlement of Agios Isidoros, 3km east. This beach isn t bad but Tarti, a bit further east, is nicer and less crowded. Continuing west from Plomari along the coast, Melinda is a peaceful fishing village with a beach, tavernas and domatia. Melinda to Vatera Μελίντα προς Βατερά Most people going from Plomari further west to Vatera, a laid-back village with a wonderful 8km stretch of sand, err on the side of caution by going the long way around, heading back north and then west and then south on the main roads. There s no need for that, however. The much more direct route, which passes through tranquil mountain villages, is eminently doable for the average car, saving time and also crossing stunning terrain; rolling hills are richly forested with olive trees and pines, and between steep gorges there are innumerable breathtaking views down to the sea. Driving north from Melinda, you pass first through tiny Paleohori. So authentic and untouristed that no one even took the time to make it look traditional, Paleohori has very small streets and gentle elders who will peer over their thick glasses curiously at you from kafeneia in the village s miniature plateia. It also boasts, in the upper part of town, an old church much grander and more ornate than Paleohori would seem to need. It s usually open and, if you speak Greek, the priest can provide information about its history. Continuing north from Paleohori, there are sweeping views of the sea behind you and glimpses of even tinier villages nestled in forested mountains opposite. Take the road west to Akrassio, and then north to Ambeliko; even though there is a more direct western route, locals say it is safer to go to Ambeliko first and then, just before reaching the village, turn left on the signposted, good-quality dirt road pointing downwards to Kato Stavros. This road lasts 9km before reverting to asphalt, and passes through serene forests of pine and olive trees. The total driving time from Melinda to Vatera on this route is little over an hour. For hikers, there are even more options for experiencing the natural beauty of southern Lesvos olive trails, as they are called, which fan out on trails and old local roads from Plomari and Melinda. Those close to the latter include the Melinda Paleohori trail (1.2km, 30 minutes), which follows the Selandas River for 200m before ascending to Paleohori, passing a spring with potable water along the way. The trail ends at one of the village s two olive presses. You can continue southwest to Panagia Kryfti, a cave church near a hot spring and the nearby Drota, or take the Paleohori Rahidi trail (1km, 30 minutes), which is paved with white stone and passes springs and vineyards. Rahidi, which got electricity only in 2001, has several charming old houses and a kafeneio in summer. There are several other trails heading northeast from Melinda, to shady Kournela (1.8km, 40 minutes), and from there to Milos (800m, 20 minutes), where there s an old flour mill. Milos can also be reached directly from Melinda (2km, one hour) on a trail that hugs the river and passes ruined olive mills, one spring and two bridges, as well as orange and mandarin trees. From Milos, follow the river northeast to Amaxo (1.75km, one hour) and be treated to refreshing mountain-spring water in plane, poplar and pine forests. There are several other olive trails, and you could hike directly from Melinda to Vatera via some of them; consult the EOT (% ; Aristarhou 6; h9am-1pm Mon-Fri) in Mytilini town or a travel agency to get precise details. Vatera & Polyhnitos Βατερά προς Πολυχνίτο Lesvos most celebrated beach, Vatera (vahter-ah), stretches for over 8km along the tranquil southern coast. That said, one would immediately assume it to be long built up and packaged out; astonishingly, Vatera s tourism is very low-key, with only a few small hotels and domatia operating, and even fewer bars. Sandy, serene Vatera is thus a perfect destination for families, couples, or anyone looking to get away from it all. Vatera has plenty of history. On its western edge, at Cape Agios Fokas, are the ruins of an ancient Temple of Dionysos, occupying a prime position near a headland overlooking the sea. In the cove between the beach and the cape, evidence has been found indicating ancient armies once camped there; indeed, historians believe this is the place Homer was referring to in the Iliad as the resting point for Greek armies besieging Troy. Legend also has it that the nearby village of Vrisa was named after a Trojan woman, Vrysseida, who died after being contested by two of the victorious Greek fighters. To this day old women and even the occasional baby girl with the name Vrysseida can be found here; the name is not given anywhere else. Vatera s most remote history, however, is what has predominantly attracted international attention. Fossils dating back 5.5 million years have been found behind the village, including remains of a tortoise as big as a Volkswagen Bug and fossils of a gigantic horse and gazelle. A small Museum of Natural History (% ; admission 1; h9.30am-7.30pm), located in Vryssa a old schoolhouse houses these and other significant remains. Ongoing excavations carried out by the University of Athens and the University of Utrecht in the Netherlands mean that the most exciting finds may still be to come. The agricultural village of Polyhnitos, about 10km north of Vatera on the main road leading back to Mytilini town, is unremarkable except for its nearby hot springs. There are two, one just to the southeast and the other 5km north, outside Lisvorio village. The former, known as the Polyhnitos Spa (% ; fax ; admission 3; h7am-12pm & 3-8pm) is in a pretty, renovated Byzantine building, and has some of the hottest temperatures of any baths in Europe, at 87.6 C. Rheumatism, arthritis, skin diseases and gynaecological problems are treated here. The latter, the Lisvorio Spa (% ; admission 3; h8am-1pm & 3-8pm) consists of two quaint little baths situated around a NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

321 630 LIMNOS Getting There & Away Book accommodation online at LIMNOS Myrina 631 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS stream, surrounded by foliage. The baths are unmarked, so ask around for directions; the buildings are in a state of disrepair, but bathing is unaffected, and the temperature and water properties are similar to those at Polyhnitos. Sleeping & Eating ohotel Vatera (% ; s/d 55/90; ai) While there are plenty of average domatia and a few overpriced hotels in southern Lesvos, there is only one Vatera. This peaceful, family-run beachfront hotel regards its guests, many of whom come back year after year, as dear old friends. The congenial George and Barbara Ballis aim to ensure a relaxing holi day whether for couples, families or single travellers by providing for common needs; free newspapers in several languages, an internet corner with computers and friendly service. The excellent Vatera Restaurant, sought out by nonguests too, gets most of its ingredients from the owners organic farm. LIMNOS ΛΗΜΝΟΣ pop 15,224 / area 482 sq km A pleasant surprise awaits those who make the effort to reach balmy Limnos, seemingly all by itself in the north Aegean, accompanied only by its satellite island of Agios Efstratios. In successfully balancing tradition and tourism, Limnos has done the seemingly impossible. Its capital, Myrina, has a classic Greek fishing harbour feel, and is crowned by a grand Genoese castle. In summer the beautiful people fill Myrina s cozy streets, lined with sophisticated shops and stately neoclassical mansions, and flock to the sandy beaches that surround it, where happening café-bars open late into the night. Limnos is not huge, but it does offer some variety. Spectacular flocks of flamingos visit its placid eastern lakes, while the austere central plain is filled with wildflowers in spring and autumn. Pristine sandy beaches, steep cliffs and sea caves line the coasts. Since package tourism is minimal, visitors are treated with friendly curiosity in the villages. Those who do arrive on an organised trip usually do so for windsurfing or adventure sports thus providing some competition to the fearless fellows in the Hellenic Air Force, which has its central command here. Limnos is indeed in an ideal position for monitoring the Straits of the Dardanelles leading into İstanbul, and for this reason it played the key role in the failed Gallipoli campaign in WW1. Near the eastern port of Moudros, where the Allied ships were based, is a military cemetary for fallen Commonwealth soldiers, which you can visit today. Getting There & Away AIR There is a daily flight to Limnos from Athens (from 66, one hour), six flights weekly from Thessaloniki ( 65, 45 minutes) and three weekly to Lesvos ( 41, 35 minutes). Olympic Airlines (% ; Nikolaou Garoufallidou) is opposite Hotel Paris in Myrina. The airport is 22km east of Myrina; taxis cost about 16. EXCURSION BOAT Day trip to the nearby island of Agios Efstratios with the Aeolis ferry every Sunday, leaving at 8am and returning at 5pm. Tickets cost 6.60/15 one way/return and are sold at Myrina Tourist & Travel Agency (% ; mirina@lim.forthnet.gr) on Myrina waterfront. FERRY SAOS Ferries (% ; on the port) operates four ferries weekly to Lavrio ( 27.70, 13 hours) and once weekly to Paralia Kymis on Evia ( 22.50, six hours). There are six ferries weekly from Limnos to Kavala ( 17, five hours). SAOS also runs three to four boats weekly to Chios ( 22, 10½ hours), Samos ( 25, 13¼ hours) and Ikaria ( 30, 15 hours) via Lesvos. There are three boats weekly to Thessaloniki ( 25, eight hours) and one or two to Alexandroupoli ( 20, five hours) via Samothraki ( 15, three hours). Note some of these are faster boats and thus more expensive. Two other companies, Agoudimos and NEL Lines, run ferries; buy tickets at Pravlis Travel (% ; pravlis@lim.forthnet.gr; Parasidis 15). Cumulatively, they run one weekly boat to Piraeus ( 30, nine hours), twice-weekly ferries to Thessaloniki ( 22.10, 8½ hours), one weekly boat to Alexandroupoli ( 14, 4½ hours) and two weekly boats to Chios ( 21.60, 9½ hours) via Lesvos ( 18.40, six hours); one of these continues on to Samos ( 27, 13 hours). One weekly ferry goes to Rhodes ( 38, 24½ hours) via Kalymnos ( 33.60, 17 hours) and Kos ( 29.50, 18¼ hours). Agios Efstratios is served five times weekly by the local ferry Aiolis (one way/return 6.60/15, two hours). Buy tickets at Myrina Tourist & Travel Agency (% ; mirina@lim.forthnet.gr). Getting Around BUS Limnos bus service has one diabolical purpose: to bring villagers to town for their morning shopping and to get them home by lunch. Going and returning by bus in the same day is only possible to four destinations, by no means the most interesting ones either. Call or visit the bus station (% ; Eleftheriou Venizelou), which displays schedules in the window and has printed copies you can take. CAR & MOTORCYCLE In Myrina cars and jeeps can be rented from Myrina Rent-a-Car (% ; fax ; Kyda-Karatza), near the waterfront. Prices cost 30 LIMNOS To Kavala (130km); Thessaloniki (250km) Cape Mourtzeflos Agios Ioannis Kaspakas Bay Platy Myrina Kaspakas Thanos Cape Thanos Tigani To Agios Efstratios (20km) To Samothraki (50km); Alexandroupolis (100km) Sardes Kornos Nevgatis Kontias Kontias Bay Cape Stavros Limnos Sergitsi Cape Agrilia To Lesvos (80km) Gomati Katalako Dafni Portianos Cape Fakos Livadohori Karpasi Portianos War Cemetery Mt Fakos (263m) Atsiki to 45 for a small car or jeep. There are several motorcycle-rental outlets on Kyda-Karatza. TA X I A taxi rank (% ) is on Myrina s central square. MYRINA ΜΥΡΙΝΑ pop 5107 Limnos striking capital is at once grandiose, with its volcanic-rock backrop and craggy Genoese castle, and serene, with its harbour full of colourful little fishing boats, and old fishermen sipping Greek coffee while unfolding their nets. Beyond the castle is a lovely sandy beach, while another, less windy one lies beyond that. In summer especially, Myrina is a warm and lively town, full of shops selling traditional foods and local muscat, as well as clothing and trendy accoutrements for women in its bustling agora. Its whitewashed stone houses, old-fashioned barber shops and kafeneia, crumbling neoclassical mansions and wood-balconied homes all create a relaxed feel. Cape Falakro Moudros Bay Moudros Varos A E G E A N S E A Sanctuary of the Kabeiroi Pournia Gulf Tigani Bay Hephaistia Kontopouli Lake Hortarolimni Roussopouli East Moudros Military Cemetery Mt Paradisi (259m) Skandali 0 6 km 0 4 miles Cape Sotira Kalliopi Poliohni Fisini Lake Alyki Keros Cape Agia Irini Plaka Panagia Cape Keros Cape Plaka Keros NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

322 632 LIMNOS Myrina Book accommodation online at LIMNOS Western Limnos 633 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS At night the town is enlivened by garrulous Greeks at Myrina s tasty fish tavernas and the music from stylish beachfront bars. At the same time, however, the castle s overgrown hill is inhabited by scores of fleet-footed deer who dart around at night; in winter, locals say, the deer even come down to wander through the agora presumably, to do their shopping. Orientation From the end of the quay turn right onto Ilia Iliou. Continue along the waterfront, passing Hotel Lemnos and the town hall. Turn left after the derelict Hotel Aktaion, then immediately veer half-left onto the main thoroughfare Kyda-Karatza to reach Myrina s central square. Continue and you will come to Eleftheriou Venizelou and the bus station. Information The National Bank of Greece, on the central square, has an ATM. There s a small tourist information kiosk on the quay during summer. Excite-Net (% ; per hr 1.50;h24hr) Prominently advertised internet access, in a café on the waterfront. Hristos A Kazolis Fotografos-Ekdotis (% ) Well-stocked photography shop on the upper end of Kyda-Karatza; sells Deeds of Men, a Greek-English book on now-defunct traditional crafts in Limnos, accompanied by a superb collection of evocative photographs. Myrina Rent a Car (% ; fax ; Kyda-Karatza) Near the waterfront. Myrina Tourist & Travel Agency (% ; mirina@lim.forthnet.gr) Sells ferry tickets to Agios Efstratios; on the waterfront. Police station (% ; Nikolaou Garoufallidou) At the far end of the street, on the right coming from Kyda-Karatza. Port police (% ) On the waterfront near the quay. Post office (Nikolaou Garoufallidou) Pravlis Travel (% ; pravlis@lim.forthnet.gr; Parasidi 15) Sells Agoudimos and NEL Lines ferry tickets. SAOS Ferries (% ) Sells ferry tickets from a small compartment on the castle side of the waterfront. Theodoros Petrides Travel Agency (% ; Kyda-Karatza 116) Sights & Activities Myrina s castle stands on a headland over the town that divides it from the beach on the other side. Climb up for magnificent views over the sea to Mt Athos. As you walk from the harbour, take the first side street to the left by an old Turkish fountain. A sign here points you to the castle. At night, sitting in front of the church on the northeastern side of the castle combines great views of the café lights down below and, if you re lucky, quick glimpses of bounding deer in the darkness to the left. Myrina has two good local beaches, the wide and sandy Rea Maditos, and a superior swath of sand, Romeïkos Gialos, which is beyond the harbour; it s accessible by taking any left from Kyda-Karatza as you re walking inland. Further on, it becomes Riha Nera (shallow water), named for its gently shelving, child-friendly beach. There is nightlife here, too. Myrina s archaeological museum (admission 2; h9am-3pm Tue-Sun) is housed in a neoclassical mansion overlooking Romeïkos Gialos beach, and contains finds from all the three sites on Limnos Poliohni, Sanctuary of the Kabeiroi and Hephaistia exhibited in chronological order. Tours Theodoros Petrides Travel Agency (% ; organises roundthe-island boat trips ( 15), which include stops for swimming and lunch. Sleeping Hotel Lemnos (% ; fax ; s/d 35/45; a) Right on the harbour, the Lemnos has friendly staff and modern, spacious rooms. From the balconies, there are views of the waterfront or castle. Hotel Filoktitis (%/fax ; Ethnikis Andistasis 14; s/d 40/50;a) This welcoming hotel has airy, well-equipped rooms just inland of Myrina s second beach of Riha Nera. Follow Maroulas (the continuation of Kyda- Karatza) and then Ethnikis Andistasis; the hotel is located above the quite fine restaurant of the same name. Apollo Pavillion (%/fax ; pavilion.com; d studios incl breakfast 50; a) Tucked behind the port in a neoclassical house, the Apollo Pavillion offers large rooms with kitchenette and balcony, and can fill up; book ahead in summer. Walk along Nikolaou Garoufallidou from Kyda-Karatza and the sign is 150m along on the right. To Arhontiko (% ; cnr Sahtouri & Filellinon; s/d/tr 50/60/70; a) This restored mansion, built originally in 1814, has lovely boutique rooms with simple charm, and helpful, friendly staff. It s located on a quiet alley around the corner from the main shopping street, and one street back from the beach. Eating & Drinking oouzeri To 11 (% ; KTEL; seafood mezedhes ) This unassuming little ouzerie by the bus depot is actually Myrina s seafood emporium. From mussels with garlic and venus clams (kydonia) to limpets, sea urchins, crayfish and more, To En-dheka (as it s pronounced) serves all the strange stuff, along with plenty of ouzo to make you forget what you re eating. O Platanos Taverna (% ; mains from 5) Mayirefta with an emphasis on meats are the order of business at this local institution under a giant plane tree, halfway along Kyda- Karatza. The menu is not particularly inventive, however. Myrina s nightlife is centred around the bars above Romeïkos Gialos beach. A very popular one in summer, Karagiozis, on a leafy terrace near the sea, serves many kinds of cocktails and beers until late. WESTERN LIMNOS Driving north of Myrina, take the road left after Kaspakas village to the above-average beach at Agios Ioannis. The settlement has a few tavernas and beach houses, but the most unique thing here is at the end of the beach, where the aptly named Rock Café is set nicely beneath a large overhanging volcanic slab. After Kaspakas, drive east and turn left at Kornos, and follow the road northwards to the remote beach at Gomati on the north coast; a good dirt road gets there from Katalako. Alternatively, drive east from Kaspakas and keep going past Kornos, turning south only at Livadohori. This road passes barren, tawny hills as well as modest farmlands. Further south along the coast road is Kontias; this fairly prosaic, plastered old village has become a hot commodity for European property hunters, though it s not exactly clear why. Below Kontias the road swings southwest back to Myrina, on the way passing by two of Limnos nicest and most popular beaches, Nevgatis and Thanos. Although they can get crowded, these beaches are truly idyllic and only a 10-minute drive from Myrina. CENTRAL LIMNOS The flat plateaus of central Limnos are dotted with wheat fields, small vineyards and sheep, as well as a major airbase of the Greek Air Force. Limnos second-largest town, Moudros, is positioned on the eastern side of the muddy bay of the same name, famous for its role in WWI but, despite having a few hotels and tavernas, not for tourism. The East Moudros Military Cemetery, with the graves of Commonwealth soldiers from the Gallipoli campaign, is 1km east of Moudros on the road to Roussopouli. This cemetery, with its metal plaque that gives a short history of the Gallipoli campaign, and a second Commonwealth cemetery, Portianos War Cemetery (6km south of Livadohori on the road to Thanos beach and Myrina), are the sombre attractions here. Moudros, occupied by Royal Marines in February 1915, was the principal base for the ill-fated campaign. EASTERN LIMNOS Historical remnants and remote beaches are the drawcards for visitors to eastern Limnos. Its three archaeological sites (admission free; h8am-7pm) include four ancient settlements at Poliohni on the southeast coast, the most significant being a pre-mycenaean city that predated Troy VI ( BC). The site is well presented, but remains are few. The second site, the Sanctuary of the Kabeiroi (Ta Kaviria), lies on remote Tigani Bay in northeastern Limnos. The worship of the Kabeiroi gods here actually predates that of Samothraki (see p637 ), more famous for this mystery cult. The major site, a Hellenistic sanctuary, has 11 columns. Nearby is the legendary Cave of Philoctetes, where that hero of the Trojan War was abandoned while his gangrenous, snake-bitten leg healed. A path from the site leads to the sea cave; there s also a hidden and narrow unmarked entrance to the left just past the main entrance. To reach the sanctuary, take the left-hand turn-off after the village of Kontopouli for 5km; from Kontopouli, you can also follow a dirt road to the third site, Hephaistia (Ta Ifestia), once Limnos most important city. It s where Hephaestus, god of fire and metallurgy, was hurled down from Mt Olympus by Zeus. Little remains, however, other than low walls and a partially excavated theatre. NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

323 634 AGIOS EFSTRATIOS Sights & Activities Book accommodation online at SAMOTHRAKI Getting There & Away 635 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS Limnos northeastern tip has some rustic, rarely visited villages, and a deserted beach at Keros popular with windsurfers. Flocks of flamingos sometimes strut on shallow Lake Alyki. From Cape Plaka, at the northeastern tip of Limnos, you can see the islands of Samothraki, and Imvros (Gökçeada) in Turkey. These three islands have historically been considered to form a strategic triangle for the defense of İstanbul (Constantinople); this was Turkey s case for clinging to Imvros in 1923, even after Greece had won back most of its other islands a decade earlier. AGIOS EFSTRATIOS ΑΓΙΟΣ ΕΥΣΤΡΑΤΙΟΣ pop 371 Stranded on its own in the middle of the Aegean, Agios Efstratios is too big to be a dependency of Limnos but too small to be anything more. Nevertheless, though the island is sparsely populated and the architecture nothing spectacular an effect of a 1968 earthquake that destroyed the island s old buildings Aï-Stratis, as locals call it, does see a fair number of curious visitors. It has rooms, tavernas and modest nightlife, as well as some very fine beaches, some accessible only by boat. Many dissidents and suspect communists were exiled here before and after WWII, among them the composer Mikis Theodorakis and poets Kostas Varnalis and Giannis Ritsos. Sights & Activities BEACHES The village beach has dark volcanic sand and warm waters. A 90-minute walk northeast will bring you to Alonitsi, a long, idyllic strand with intriguing facing islets offshore. To get there, take the little track from the northeast side of the village, starting by a small bridge, and when it splits, keep to the right. Lidario, a beach on the west side, can be reached on foot, but with difficulty. Try to arrange a boat trip locally to this and other hard-to-reach beaches, or else wander off for peaceful hill walks. Sleeping & Eating You can book rooms in Limnos through Myrina Tourist & Travel Agency (% ; mirina@lim.forthnet.gr) or Theodoros Petrides Travel Agency (% ; Kyda- Karatza 116), or else look out for domatia once you arrive; only in the height of summer might things ever be crowded. There are a few tavernas, with generally reasonably priced fare and the seafood, of course, is excellent and fresh. Getting There & Away There are five services weekly to Limnos ( 10, two hours) and one weekly to Kavala ( 15.50, 6¾ hours). The local ferry Aiolis goes daily from Limnos in summer. Tickets cost 6.60/15 one way/return; buy at Myrina Tourist & Travel Agency (% ; mirina@lim.forthnet.gr) in Myrina. Bad weather can cause unpredictable cancellations and delays to the schedule. SAMOTHRAKI ΣΑΜΟΘΡΑΚΗ SAMOTHRAKI To Kavala (100km) To Limnos (60km) Cape Makrivrahos A E G E A N S E A To Alexandroupolis (40km) Paleopolis Niki Kamariotissa Alonia Sanctuary of the Great Gods Hora Lakoma Xiropotamos Kato Kariotes Profitis Ilias Pahia Ammos pop 2723 / area 176 sq km For well over a thousand years, Samothraki s Sanctuary of the Great Gods was the site of a mystery religion respected and endowed by the Mediterannean world s greatest rulers. When you approach it on the ferry, the island does indeed seem to be holding many secrets within a hulking mass capped by mighty Mt Fengari (1611m), the Aegean s loftiest peak, from where Homer recounts that Poseidon, god of the sea, watched the Trojan War unfold. Samothraki s greatness, however, does not just lie in the past. It offers some of the best though still largely unexplored hiking opportunities in Greece, with valleys filled with massive gnarled oak and plane trees, and forests redolent of olive and pine. There are barren and craggy peaks in the centre of the island, unvisited sandy beaches in the south and, in the northeast, a vertiginous series of lush waterfalls that plunge into deep, icy pools. The opposite kind of catharsis is found further west along the coast, with the therapeutic hot baths of Loutra (Therma). Samothraki has always attracted an alternative, environmentally aware crowd, and in summer the proliferation of safari hats, dreadlocks and Hindu symbols add to the exotic, jungle vibe. The island s famous electronic and world music festivals have also long drawn a hip young crowd for what is perhaps the modern equivalent of the ancient spiritual rites brought to the island by the Thracians around 1000 BC. Historical sites of more recent creation, such as the Byzantine tower at Cape Fonias and the ruined Genoese castle that crowns the island s inland capital, Hora, will also appeal to the aesthetically inclined. Set amid stark cliffs, this very photogenic village is filled with narrow, flowering streets and boasts one of the best sweets shops in all of Greece. Samothraki s remoteness and relatively poor transport links, however, mean that it s often left off the average island-hopping itinerary a shame, considering that Samothraki is one of the coolest of all Greek islands, one reserved for the true initiates. Getting There & Away FERRY Lacking an airport, Samothraki is accessible only by ferry, from Limnos and the mainland ports of Kavala and Alexandroupoli. During the summer months the Samothraki-based SAOS Ferries goes twice daily to Alexandroupoli ( 11, two hours). There are two weekly ferries to Kavala ( 14.50, four hours) and two to Limnos ( 10.50, three hours). The Kavala run is during summer only. Buy tickets at Niki Tours (% ; niki_tours@hotmail.com) in Kamariotissa. Hydrofoils theoretically exist, but services change frequently. Ano Kariotes Mt Fengari (1611m) Panagia Kremniotissa Loutra (Therma) Fonias Samothraki Vatos River Kremasto Nero Cape Fonias Vathres Rock Pools Isomata 0 4 km 0 2 miles T H R A C I A N S E A Mnimoria Kipos Cape Kipos Getting Around BUS In summer 10 buses daily go from Kamariotissa to Hora ( 1) and eight to Loutra (Therma; 2) via Paleopolis ( 1). Some of the Loutra buses continue to the two camping grounds. Five buses daily serve Profitis Ilias ( 2) via Alonia and Lakoma. CAR & MOTORCYCLE On Kamariotissa s waterfront, opposite the buses, X Rentals (% ) rents cars and small jeeps, as does Kyrkos Rent a Car (% , ). Rent A Motor Bike (% ), opposite the quay, rents motorcycles and scooters. EXCURSION BOAT In summer the tour boat Samothraki circles the island ( 17), departing from Loutra (Therma) at 11am and returning by 6.30pm. The boat hugs the coast, passing sites like the Byzantine castle of Fonias, the rock formations of Panias and Kremasto waterfall, before stopping at 1pm for four hours of swimming and sunbathing at Vatos. A snack bar operates throughout the trip. For more information, ask at the taverna Petrinos Kipos in Kamariotissa or call the boat operator (% ). TA X I Taxis on Samothraki are quick and, with three or more people, can be cheaper than the bus. The most popular destinations from Kamari- NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

324 636 SAMOTHRAKI Kamariotissa Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at SAMOTHRAKI Sanctuary of the Great Gods 637 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS otissa are: Hora ( 4.50), Pahia Ammos ( 15), Profitis Ilias ( 7.50), Sanctuary of the Great Gods ( 4.50), Loutra (Therma; 7.50), first camping ground ( 8.50), second camping ground ( 9.50), Fonias River ( 10.50), and Kipos ( 17). For a taxi, call the English- and Germanspeaking company Petros Glinias (% ) or other Kamariotissa taxi companies (% , , ). KAMARIOTISSA ΚΑΜΑΡΙΩΤΙΣΣΑ pop 963 Samothraki s port, largest town and transport hub is Kamariotissa, which has some services and a nearby pebble beach with beach bars and decent swimming. Although most people don t sleep here, Kamariotissa is roughly equidistant from Samothraki s more famous attractions, and everyone passes through it. While not the most exciting destination, Kamariotissa is hardly the least appealing of Greek island ports and is filled with flowers and good fish tavernas. Orientation & Information Turn left when disembarking from the ferry and you will see a tourist information kiosk after 50m, on the port side of the road running parallel to the water. Buses for the rest of the island are just behind this kiosk further east on the waterfront. Across the road are the majority of the town s tavernas, travel and car- and motorcycle-rental agencies, and two ATMs. Follow the waterfront further east and after 100m begins the town beach. Café Aktaion (% ; per hr 4) Internet café at the west end of the harbour. Niki Tours (% ; fax ; niki _tours@hotmail.com) A very helpful starting point for any visit to Samothraki; across the street from the buses. Port police (% ) East along the waterfront. General information about Samothraki, including boat schedules. Activities Haris Hatzigiannakoudis at Niki Tours (% ; niki_tours@hotmail.com) runs a Capoeira Camp (a Brazilian martial art/dance) with Brazilian master Lua Rasta annually in late June, and can organise hiking safaris to Mt Fengari. As many of the hiking trails in Samothraki s lush interior are poorly marked or unmarked completely, and since the island has no official mountaineering guide, Haris is the man to see for those interested in serious hiking on Samothraki. Festivals & Events Although disapproving local authorities pulled the plug on Samothraki s famous world music festival a couple of years ago, organisers have pledged to bring it back in its previous incarnation, as an electronic music festival. When it s held, the three-day event takes place at the island s camping grounds. Since at the time of writing details were still undecided, it s best to get updates from Haris Hatzigiannakoudis at Niki Tours (% ; niki_tours@hotmail.com). Sleeping Rooms of varying quality are advertised throughout Kamariotissa; the port-side tourist information kiosk or Niki Tours (% ; niki_tours@hotmail.com) can also arrange accommodation. Niki Hotel (% ; fax ; s/d 40/60) A good bet for those who want to stay in Kamariotissa, this spacious hotel with large, modern rooms has a lovely garden and is fronted by poplar trees. Just opposite is the town beach of the same name. Hotel Aeolos (% ; fax ; s/d incl breakfast 60/70; sa) Up behind Niki Hotel, the Aeolos stands on a hill overlooking the sea and has comfortable rooms. Front rooms overlook the large swimming pool and garden, while the back ones have views of Mt Fengari. Eating Klimitaria Restaurant (% ; mains from 5.50) This eatery at the eastern end of the waterfront serves an unusual speciality called gianiotiko, which is an oven-baked dish of diced pork, potatoes, egg and more, as well as the usual taverna fare. I Synantisi (% ; fish ) For fresh fish at good prices, head to this hardworking outdoor ouzerie on the central waterfront. Check out the daily catch, preserved on ice inside. The melanouri (saddled bream), not as small as it looks, and a Greek salad make for a tasty lunch. HORA ΧΩΡΑ Set within a natural fortress of two sheer cliffs, and with a sweeping view of the sea, Hora (also called Samothraki) was the obvious choice for the island s capital. Indeed, its northwestern flank is watched over by a ruined Byzantine castle, thought to date from the 10th century but most often associated with Palamidi Gattilusi, a 15th-century Genoese lord who married into the Palaeologos family the last imperial dynasty of Byzantium. With its curving cobbled streets wreathed in flowers and colourful, crumbling traditional houses topped by terracotta roofs, Hora is a perfect place for ambling and enjoying a leisurely lunch or coffee. The village s great views and constant interplay of angles, shadows and colour make it great for photographers, and in summer there is eclectic nightlife to be found in Hora s small streets and roof bars. Orientation & Information Buses and taxis stop in a central square below the village. Walk straight upwards along the street, following the signs for the kastro (castle). This main street houses the OTE, Agricultural Bank and post office. The police station (% ) is far up in Gattilusi s castle. Following the main street upwards brings you past several cafés and tavernas and, on the right, a small fountain with mountain water for filling your drink bottle. Sleeping There is no hotel in Hora; ask around for domatia. Midway up the main street, Kyra Despina (% ; s/d 40/50), who speaks some English, has fan-only self-catering studios with sweeping views, which sleep two to four people. Eating & Drinking oo Lefkos Pyrgos (% ; desserts 4-6;h9am-3am Jul-Aug) One of the best sweet shops anywhere, the summer-only Lefkos Pyrgos is the culinary laboratory of master desserts inventor Georgios Stergiou and wife Dafni. Georgios insists on only using all-natural ingredients, without preservatives or artificial flavourings. His concoctions are both extraordinarily refreshing (try the lemonade sweetened with honey and cinnamon on a hot summer s day) and unique, like Greek yogurt flavoured with bitter almond. Exotic teas, coffees and mixed drinks are also served. Some have amusing names like The Thief of The Louvre (vanilla ice cream and Grand Marnier), or the infamous Tar and Feather (Pissa kai Poupoula) an indulgent, soufflétype cake oozing with liquid chocolate and topped with caramelised almond and vanilla ice cream. Occasional live music nights range from experimental jazz to classical. Café-Ouzeri 1900 (% ; mains 5-8) This relaxing taverna set under a shady trellis just before the fountain on the left offers friendly service and great views of the village s red rooftops, castle and sea and even better food. Try the spetsofaï (stewed green peppers, tomatoes and sausage in an earthen pot), rice with seafood, or tzigerosarmades (goat flavoured with onion, dill and spearmint). The large, colourful menu, printed to look like a newspaper, is a take-home memento. Meltemi (% ;h8am-late) Continue higher up in Hora and take the side street to the left, opposite the fountain, to find this cool bar with great views; it has a popular roof garden that rocks in summer. SANCTUARY OF THE GREAT GODS ΤΟ ΙΕΡΟ ΤΩΝ ΜΕΓΑΛΩΝ ΘΕΩΝ Beside the coastal village of Paleopolis, 6km northeast of Kamariotissa, is the Sanctuary of the Great Gods (admission 3, free Sun 1 Nov-31 Mar & public holidays; h8.30am-4pm Tue-Sun). The mysterious cult of the Great Gods, of even greater antiquity than the Olympian gods, was brought to Samothraki by the Thracians around 1000 BC. By the 5th century BC luminaries of the ancient world were coming for initiation into its rites, stilly largely unknown. The sanctuary was patronised by great rulers, such as Egyptian Queen Arsinou and Philip II of Macedon. Samothraki s sacred function remained until paganism was forbidden in the 4th century AD. The principal Thracian deity, the Great Mother (Alceros Cybele), was worshipped as a fertility goddess and, when the original Thracian religion became integrated with the state religion, was merged with the Olympian female deities Demeter, Aphrodite and Hecate. The last of these was a mysterious goddess associated with darkness, the underworld and witchcraft. Other deities worshipped at Samothraki s temple were the Great Mother s consort, the virile young Kadmilos (god of the phallus), later integrated with the Olympian god Hermes and the demonic Kabeiroi twins, Dardanos and Aeton, later integrated with Castor and Pollux (the Dioscuri), the twin sons of Zeus and Leda. These twins were invoked by mariners to protect them NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

325 638 SAMOTHRAKI Around Samothraki Book accommodation online at THASOS 639 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS against the perils of the sea. Samothraki s Great Gods were venerated for their immense power; in comparison, the bickering Olympian gods were frivolous and fickle, almost comic characters. Today we know little about how the Great Gods were worshipped; initiates who revealed the rites were punished by death. The archaeological evidence, however, suggests that two initiations, a lower and a higher, were held. In the first, the Great Gods were invoked to grant the initiate a spiritual rebirth; in the second, the candidate was absolved of transgressions. All were allowed to participate. The site s most celebrated relic, the Winged Victory of Samothrace (now in the Louvre in Paris), was found by Champoiseau, the French consul, at Adrianople (present-day Edirne in Turkey) in Subsequent excavations were sporadic until just before WWII, when Karl Lehmann and Phyllis Williams Lehmann of the Institute of Fine Arts, New York University, directed an organised dig. Exploring the Site The Sanctuary of the Great Gods site is extensive but well labelled. After entering, take the left-hand path to the rectangular anaktoron. At its southern end was a sacristy, the antechamber where white-gowned candidates assembled before going to the anaktoron s main room for their first (lower) initiation. One by one, each initiate would then enter the small inner temple at the northern end of the building, where a priest would disclose the meanings of the ceremony s symbols. Afterwards the initiates received a sort of initiation certificate back in the sacristy. Sacrifices took place in the arsinoein, southwest of the anaktoron. Once a grand cylindrical structure, it was built in 289 BC as a gift to the Great Gods from the Egyptian queen Arsinou. Southeast of it stands the sacred rock, the site s original altar. Following the initiations, a celebratory feast was held, probably in the temenos to the south of the arsinoein, a gift from Philip II of Macedon. Adjacent is the prominent Doric hieron, the sanctuary s most photographed ruin, with five of its columns reassembled. Initiaties received their second (higher) initiation here. Opposite the hieron stand remnants of a theatre. Nearby, a path ascends to the Nike monument where once stood the magnificent Winged Victory of Samothrace, a gift from Demetrius Poliorketes (the besieger of cities ) to the Kabeiroi for helping him defeat Ptolemy II in battle. The ruins of a massive stoa, a two-aisled portico where pilgrims to the sanctuary sheltered, lie to the northwest. Initiates names were recorded on its walls. Ruins of the medieval fortress lie to the north of the stoa. A good site map is located on the path east from the Nike monument; the path continues to the southern necropolis, Samothraki s most important ancient cemetery, used from the Bronze Age to early Roman times. North of the cemetery once stood the sanctuary s elaborate Ionic entrance, the propylon, a gift from Ptolemy II. MUSEUM The admission cost includes the site s welllabelled museum (% ; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun). Exhibits include terracotta figurines, vases, jewellery and a plaster cast of the Winged Victory of Samothrace. AROUND SAMOTHRAKI Loutra (Therma) Λουτρά (Θερμά) Loutra (interchangeably called Therma) is 14km east of Kamariotissa and near the coast. It s the most popular village for accommodation on Samothraki, a relaxing village of plane and horse chestnut trees, dense greenery and gurgling creeks. At night young people staying in local domatia or the nearby camping grounds congregate in its café and there is a laid-back feel to the place. The village s synonymous names refer to its therapeutic, mineral-rich springs; a dip in the thermal bath (% ; admission 3; h am & pm Jun-Sep) is said to cure everything from skin problems and liver ailments to infertility. The prominent white building by the bus stop houses the official bath; however, bathing for free can be done at another indoor bath, 50m up the road to the right of the main one, and at two small outdoor baths another 20m up the hill. SLEEPING & EATING Samothraki s two popular camping grounds are both on the beach east of Loutra. They are both called Multilary Camping (no, they don t mean Military ) and are quite similar. If you come before the camping grounds are officially open, you can usually stay for free. Multilary Camping I (Camping ; % ; sites per adult/tent 3/3; hjun-aug) A shady, laidback place on the left 2km beyond Loutra. Multilary Camping II (% ; sites per adult/ tent 3/3; hjun-aug) A little further past Multilary Camping I, with a minimarket, restaurant and showers. Studios Ktima Holovan (% ; ; d/t 70/80) Located 16km east of Kamariotissa, before the Fonias River, this is a relaxing place for families or groups of friends. While the friendly owners would seem to offer enough with these very modern, two-room self-catering studios set on a grassy lawn 50m from the beach, and a mini-playground for kids, the price also includes a free rental car. Mariva Bungalows (% ; fax ; d incl breakfast 80; a) These secluded bungalows, with breezy modern rooms, enjoy a great setting on a lush hill side near a waterfall. To reach the bunglaows take the turning from the coast road, which leads inland towards Loutra, and then the first left. Follow the signs to the bungalows, which is 600m further. Most of the food offerings in Loutra are souvlaki joints, though Paradisos Restaurant (% ; mains 5-7) at the back of the village and Fengari Restaurant (% ; mains ) are two reasonable options, the latter slightly more adventurous; try its stuffed goat or imam tourlou (roast eggplant stuffed with potatoes and pumpkin). Kafeneio Ta Therma (% ) is also a very popular place in the town centre. This big open café near the baths is always full, whether for coffee in the morning, beer at night or home-made fruit sweets any time. Fonias River After Loutra on the northeast coast is the Fonias River, where the famous Vathres rock pools (admission 1) are located. The walk starts at the river bridge 4.7km east of Loutra, by the ticket booths. However, the site is unfenced and the ticket booths are only open in summer. The first 40 minutes of the walk are easy and on a well- marked track; you will then reach a large rock pool fed by a dramatic 12m-high waterfall. The cold water is very refreshing on a hot summer s day. The river is known as the Murderer, and in winter rains can transform the waters into a raging torrent. The real danger, however, is getting lost: though there are six waterfalls, marked paths only run to the first two; after that, the walk becomes dangerously confusing. For serious hiking here and in the Mt Fengari area, first consult Niki Tours (% ; niki_tours@hotmail. com) in Kamariotissa. es Samothraki s best beach is the 800m-long Pahia Ammos, a superb stretch of sand along an 8km winding road from Lakoma on the south coast. In summer caïques from Kamariotissa may visit the beach, and the boat tour from Loutra stops around the headland at the equally superb, nudist-friendly Vatos. From Pahia Ammos, the former Greek island of Imvros (Gökçeada), ceded to the Turks under the Treaty of Lausanne in 1923, is sometimes visible. Samothraki s other superlative beach, the pebbled Kipos on the southeast coast, is accessible via the road skirting the north coast. The only facilities here are a shower and a freshwater fountain, and there is no shade; like the others, it can be reached in summer by caïque or excursion boat. Other Villages The small villages of Profitis Ilias, Lakoma and Xiropotamos in the southwest, and Alonia near Hora, are all serene and seldom visited, though they re linked on asphalt roads. The hill-side Profitis Ilias, with many trees and springs, has several tavernas, of which Vrahos (% ) is famous for its roast goat. THASOS ΘΑΣΟΣ pop 13,530 Child friendly, lined with sandy beaches and very green, Thasos is one of the most popular Greek islands for families, though it does attract many 20-somethings, too. Indeed, if you re tired of meeting the same-old Euro/Anglo travellers, then Thasos, muchfrequented by natives of ex-yugoslav republics, Bulgaria and Romania, is the place to go. And, since it s just 10km from Kavala on the mainland, Thasos is an easy hop for independent travellers crossing northern Greece to or from Turkey. While this proximity to the mainland has brought Thasos within the package-tour orbit, the island is only really crowded in July and August, and even then there are numerous empty beaches and hidden coves tucked away NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

326 640 THASOS Getting There & Away THASOS Thasos (Limenas) 641 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS THASOS To Kavala (10km) Pahys Skala Rahonis Vasiliou Cape Prinos Skala Prinos Prinou Skala Sotira Kasaviti (Mikros Skala Prinos) Kallirahis Skala Marion Cape Kefalas Kallirahi Kalyvia Thasos Strait Limenaria Pefkari Potos To Panagia Islet (10m) Glyfoneri Agios Georgiou Rahoni Cape Pahis Kasaviti (Megalos Prinos) 0 6 km 0 4 miles Cape Vriokastro Thasos (Limenas) Potamia Thasos Maries Mt Ypsario (1204m) Kastro Kinira Theologos Alyki Moni Arhangelou Cape Salonikios To Keramoti (5km) Makryammos Hrysi Ammoudia (Golden ) Panagia Skala Potamia Cape Pyrgos Kinera Islet Paradise Cape Stavros T H R A C I A N S E A on its pine-ringed shores, connected by frequent buses plying the circular coastal road. Further inland, Thasos traditional mountain villages, shaded by huge oaks and plane trees, feature old stone-and-slate architecture, crystal-clear mountain waterfalls, and great hiking and mountain biking opportunities. The island of Thasos has a long and varied history, and the excellent little archaeological museum in the capital, Thasos (Limenas), tells some of the story. A few Greco-Roman remains in the town, a submerged ancient marble quarry, Byzantine monasteries and Neolithic tombs comprise the island s historical attractions. In ancient times Thasos became wealthy enough to build a navy, due to its gold deposits. The Parians who founded the ancient city of Thasos (Limenas) in 700 BC struck gold at Mt Pangaion, and started a lucrative export trade. While the gold is long gone, Thasos ancient gift of white marble said to be the second whitest in the world is still being exploited, much to the consternation of local environmentalists who decry the defacement of mountainsides this mining has caused. At the same time subdued exploration for offshore oil continues in the waters between Thasos and Kavala. Thasos is part of the prefecture of Macedonia, and though an island, is considered more like an aquatic extension of northern Greece. This perception has resulted in a short high season; travellers coming before or after July and August, therefore, can have this, the socalled emerald isle, all to themselves. Indeed, some of the island s best activities happen in low season. In early spring Greece s largest sea cormorant colony, nesting on the islet of Panagia, hatches its young, and in late April there s the increasingly popular Thasos International Mountain Biking Race. Getting There & Away FERRY Ferries go every two hours in summer between mainland Kavala and Skala Prinou ( 3.30, 1¼ hours). Direct ferries to Thasos (Limenas), leave from Keramoti, 46km southeast of Kavala ( 2, 40 minutes). The latter is best for those flying in to Kavala s airport, which is much closer to Keramoti than to Kavala. From the airport, take a taxi ( 10, 15 minutes) to Keramoti. On Thasos, get ferry schedules at the ferry ticket booths (% ) and port police (% ) in Thasos (Limenas) and Skala Prinou. The ferry dock for Keramoti is 150m west of Thasos town centre. HYDROFOIL Four daily hydrofoils connect Skala Prinou and Kavala ( 7.50, 40 minutes); although the competition might tell you they don t, another four daily hydrofoils go directly from Thasos (Limenas) to Kavala ( 10, 40 minutes). In Kavala, hydrofoils wait on the dock just behind the main intercity bus station, beside the small port police kiosk. Getting Around BICYCLE While basic bikes are rented in Thasos (Limenas), serious mountain bikers should head to Potos on the west coast, where top-of-the-line models and detailed route information are available from the island s mountain biking expert, Yiannis Raizis (% ; ; BUS At least for its buses, Thasos puts many other Greek islands to shame. Frequent buses circle the coast in both directions and service inland villages, too. Buses to various destinations meet all arriving ferries at Skala Prinou and Thasos (Limenas), the island s transport hub. There are 10 daily buses from Thasos (Limenas) through the west-coast villages to Limenaria ( 3.80) and Potos ( 4), with four continuing to the inland village of Theologos ( 5.10). From Thasos (Limenas) four buses daily go further south to the beach village of Alyki ( 3.20) and the nearby Moni Arhangelou. From Potos you can follow the same route to these places on to the east coast and Paradise, Skala Potamia ( 3.80) and nearby Hrysi Ammoudia (Golden ). In summer 10 daily buses go the other way from Thasos (Limenas) to these east-coast villages, servicing Skala Potamia ( 1.50) via Panagia ( 1.20) and Potamia ( 1.20). Doing a grand circular tour of the island (about 100km) is possible nine times daily ( 9.10, 3½ hours), clockwise or counterclockwise. The bus station (% ) on the waterfront in Thasos (Limenas) provides timetables, and sometimes the driver can, too. CAR & MOTORCYCLE Avis Rent a Car Thasos (Limenas) (% ; fax ); Potamia (% ); Skala Prinou (% ) has a big presence, though smaller, local companies may offer better rates. In Thasos (Limenas), Billy s Bikes (% ), opposite the Newsagent, and 2 Wheels (% ), on the road to Prinos, specialise in bike and motorcycle rental. EXCURSION BOAT The Eros 2 excursion boat (% ) makes full-day trips ( 25) around Thasos four times weekly, with stops for swimming and a barbecue. The boat leaves from the Old Harbour at 10am. Water taxis also run regularly to Hrysi Ammoudia (Golden ) and Makryammos beach from the Old Harbour. Excursion boats of varying sizes, nationalities and alcohol content set sail regularly from the coastal resort villages as well. TA X I The Thasos (Limenas) taxi rank (% ) is on the central waterfront, next to the main bus stop. In Potos, a taxi rank with listed prices is besides the main road s bus stop. THASOS (LIMENAS) ΘΑΣΟΣ (ΛΙΜΕΝΑΣ) pop 2610 / area 375 sq km The capital, Thasos (also called Limenas), has the island s most services and year-round life, as well as a picturesque fishing harbour, sandy beach, shopping, and moderately edifying ancient ruins and an archaeological museum. Still, considering the relatively expensive accommodation rates and lacklustre restaurant offerings, and the superior beaches, mountain forests and nightlife further on, lingering here isn t necessary. Orientation & Information Depending on your needs, the town s main shopping thoroughfare (18 Oktovriou) and its touristy shops will seem either an eyesore or an invaluable arsenal for equipping small children for the beach. Several ATMs are found along it near the central square. The National Bank of Greece, on the waterfront, has an ATM. The town beach, backed by waterfront tavernas and beach bars, is about 100m beyond the old harbour, a 10-minute walk from the town centre. Billias Travel Service (% ; -travel-service.gr; Gallikis Arheologikis Scholis 2) An all-services travel agency near the central square. Children s Arcade (Opposite Hotel Angelica on waterfront) Has bumper cars, air hockey and other diversions. Mood Café (% ; cnr 18 Oktovriou & K Dimitriadi; per hr 3; h10am-2am) Internet café with fast connection. Newsagent (Theogenous) Sells English-language newspapers. Port police (% ) Tourist police (% ) Useful inside information and photos of Thasos. Sights Thasos archaeological museum (% ; h9am-3pm Tue-Sun), next to the ancient agora at the Old Harbour, caused a stir when it reopened after a lengthy hiatus. Moreover, it keeps expanding, with the most recent new additions being Neolithic utensils and other finds from a mysterious tomb in central Thasos. Exhibitions from the classic period spotlight Theagenes, an Olympic champion of the 5th century BC. However, the 5mtall 6th-century BC kouros carrying a ram looms largest. Next to the museum is the ancient agora, once the bustling centre of commerce for ancient and Roman Thasos. The foundations of stoas, shops and dwellings remain. Nearby, the ancient theatre stages performances of ancient dramas and comedies as part of the Kavala Festival of Drama ( p642 ). The theatre is signposted from the small harbour. NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

327 642 THASOS Thasos (Limenas) Book accommodation online at THASOS West Coast 643 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS THASOS (LIMENAS) INFORMATION ATM... 1 C2 Billias Travel Service... 2 B2 Children's Arcade... 3 C1 Mood Café... 4 B2 National Bank of Greece... 5 B2 Newsagent... 6 C2 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Ancient Agora... 7 D2 Archaeological Museum... 8 C2 SLEEPING Amfipolis Hotel... 9 C2 Hotel Akropolis B3 Hotel Alkyon B2 Hotel Angelica C1 Hotel Mironi A3 Hotel Possidon C2 Hotel Timoleon B2 To Ferries to Keramoti (150m); Taverna Tarsanas (1km) To Wheels; Prinos (24km) K Dimitriadi From the theatre a path leads up to the acropolis of ancient Thasos, where substantial remains of a medieval fortress stand on the foundations of the town s ancient walls and where there are magnificent views of the coast. A carved rock staircase descends to the ancient wall s foundations. The Limenas Panagia road is nearby. Festivals & Events In July and August performances of various ancient plays are held in the ancient theatre as part of the Kavala Festival of Drama. An annual Full Moon concert takes place each August; admission is free and singers come from all over Greece to participate. The EOT (% ) in Kavala has information and tickets, or ask at the the tourist police (% ) on Thasos. The Thasos Festival takes place almost every year during summer, featuring everything from classical drama and painting exhibitions to contemporary Greek rock. Programmes are widely available at hotels, cafés and tourist agencies. Sleeping Good budget accommodation in central Thasos (Limenas) is decidedly scarce, though Quay Oktovriou 20 Central Square 16 Thasos Strait Port Police 10 M Alexandrou Gallikis Arheologikis Scholis 12 1 Theogenous Pavlou Melas To Makryammos Bungalows (2km); Panagia (14km) m miles Old Harbour 8 To Drift (100m); Limenas (100m); Karnagio (150m) nice midrange options exist and prices are sometimes lower for walk-in bookings, depending on season and occupancy. BUDGET & MIDRANGE Hotel Alkyon (% ; fax ; 18 Oktovriou; s/d 35/45) This almost budget option near the harbour has clean, though fanequipped, rooms that can get hot at night. Dynamic owner Persephone is famous for her home-made lemon meringue pie. Hotel Akropolis (%/fax ; M Alexandrou; s/d incl breakfast 45/55; a) This century-old mansion offers a classic touch, with eclectic antiques and a relaxing garden, though rooms are slightly cramped. ohotel Possidon (% ; Old Harbour; s/d 45/60; a) This friendly waterfront hotel s recently renovated lobby bar straddles both the harbour and main shopping street of 18 Oktovriou. It s one of the few hotels in town that doesn t work with package-tour companies. Rooms are modern and well maintained, many with comfortable balconies overlooking the water. Co-manager Nikos Stefanopoulos is proud to point out Miaouli 19 To Ancient Theatre & Acropolis (100m) EATING I Pigi Grill Room B2 Simi D1 DRINKING Grand Café B3 To Karanti D1 TRANSPORT Avis Rent a Car B2 Babis Bikes B2 Billy's Bikes C2 Bus Station B2 Ferries to Kavala B2 Ferry Ticket Booths B2 Taxi Rank B2 Tickets for Eros 2 Excursion Boat D1 that the Possidon s rooftop bar, where he can sometimes be found playing reggae and world music, is the only one in town. Hotel Angelica (% ; Old Harbour; s/d 50/60; a) Another waterfront hotel, the Angelica is a dependable choice, though it does not overwhelm. Bathrooms are a bit dated but clean. Hotel Mironi (% ; fax ; s/d/t 45/60/70; a) On a hill near some of the capital s better bars, the Mironi has an unfailingly polite and helpful staff, though rooms are more adequate than inspirational. TOP END Hotel Timoleon (% ; fax ; Old Harbour; s/d 70/100; a) Located next to the Hotel Possidon on the waterfront, the three-star Timoleon has 30 rooms (15 with sea view) characterised by smooth fixtures and spacious interiors; considering the price, though, perhaps not unique enough. Amfipolis Hotel (% ; polis.gr; cnr 18 Oktovriou & Theogenous; s/d/ste incl breakfast 80/120/200;hJun-Oct; as) A grand recent renovation has brought wi-fi and a garden Jacuzzi seating five, among other innovations, to this national heritage listed hotel with an imposing blue façade. Unquestionably the town s poshest place to stay, the Amfipolis, a hotel since 1938 and previous to that a tobacco warehouse, has elegant rooms with high, wood-panelled ceilings. Its well-known restaurant was closed at the time of writing, but was expected to reopen by this book s publication. Makryammos Bungalows (% ; s/d/tr incl breakfast & dinner 145/195/242; pas) This beach-front family resort 2km southeast of Thasos (Limenas) offers a small zoo, mini-club, tennis and basketball courts, and a pool for children, and for your inner child, yoga, tai chi and pottery classes. The hotel s unique layout means that its 200 or so bungalows are all but hidden in wooded groves behind the beach, guaranteeing privacy and serenity. Several on-site restaurants and bars add to the resort feel, as does the private boat running guests over to Thasos (Limenas) several times daily. Eating & Drinking Dining in Thasos (Limenas) has become both more bland and more expensive, as beachfront restaurants bank on location to save them from innovation. The drinking scene is more sedate than at the coastal beach resorts, though satisfactory watering holes do exist. I Pigi Grill Room (% ; Central Square; mains ; hdinner) This friendly, central restaurant next to a spring can seem to blend in with other nearby eateries, but is a cut above when it comes to Greek meats; seafood mezedhes and fresh salads are good, too. Simi (% ; Old Harbour; mains 7-10) At first glance, Simi looks like all the other Old Harbour tavernas with touting waiters; however, locals agree that it s the best place in town for fresh fish. A full menu of other food, including mezedhes and meat, is also offered. Taverna Tarsanas (% ; mezedhes 4, mains 10-15) Located 1km west of Thasos on the site of a former boatbuilder s, Tarsanas is known for its great fresh fish and unique seafood mezedhes. To Karanti (% ; Miaouli) An outdoor ouzerie on the Old Harbour frequented by locals as well as by tourists, To Karanti s picturesque setting opposite bobbing fishing boats is complemented by its traditional Greek music and tasty mezedhes. Drift (Old Harbour) This chilled-out beach bar with wispy coloured curtains comes alive at night when its young international crowd trades in their frappes for cocktails. Karnagio (% ) Any long leisurely walk beyond the Old Harbour is made worthwhile when it ends at Karnagio, a nice open spot for a quiet sunset drink near the beach. Grand Café (% ; cnr K Dimitriadi & Pavlou Melas;huntil late) Perhaps the best regular bar in Thasos (Limenas), the Grand Café has soft corner couches and caters to a mixed Greek/international crowd. In the same area as the town s few nightclubs, it s visible from its checkerboard pillars out the front. Friendly owner Dimitris Dimitriadis insists he was not named after the street on which his bar is located. WEST COAST Thasos west coast consists of sandy beaches hidden by pines and seaside villages, which are accompanied by almost homonymous settlements further inland, the latter presaging the little-visited mountain wilds of central Thasos. There are ATMs in Skala Prinou, Limenaria and Potos. Following the coast southwest from Thasos (Limenas), two sandy beaches emerge, first Glyfoneri and then Pahys. The first real village, Skala Rahonis, is a package-tour destination, but NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

328 644 THASOS West Coast Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at THASOS East Coast 645 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS has an excellent camping ground. The next coastal village, the port of Skala Prinou, is where you get on or off ferries to Kavala; though it has some services, accommodation and an ATM, there s little reason to linger. However, 1km south, the lovely beach of Vasiliou stands backed by trees, and the inland, hill-side villages of Mikros Prinos and Megalos Prinos (collectively known as Kasaviti) offer a refreshingly lush break from the touristed coast. Further down, two more small beaches appear at Skala Sotira and Skala Kallirahis. Some 2km inland from the latter, traditional Kallirahi features steep narrow streets and old stone houses. Further on, Maries is another lovely inland village, accessible from its coastal companion, Skala Marion. The improbable turn-ofthe-century capital of German industry on Thasos, Skala Marion is where long ago the Speidel Metal Company mined iron ore for export. es line both sides of the village, and continue in long stretches between it and Limenaria, Thasos second-largest town. Although it looks rather ungainly from the road, Limenaria has a nice, though small, sandy beach. The allure of the German industrialists accounts for its creation in 1903, and Speidel s ruined buildings, including a circular tower, still loom over the sea by the waterfront. A few kilometres further south, the fishing-villages-turned-resorts of Potos and Pefkari have long sandy beaches, half of the former now lined with cafés and tavernas. Potos is a good base for explorating southwestern Thasos. A wooded 10km road leads inland from it to Theologos, Thasos medieval and Ottoman capital. Theologos is a beautiful traditional village of whitewashed stone-and-slate houses set amid mountain foliage, and enjoys regular public bus service. The drive southeast from Potos rounding the coast opens onto stunning, cliff-top views of southern bays, some with pristine sandy beaches that are usually almost empty and accessible by dirt roads. Continuing east on the main road, you will soon enough come upon Moni Arhangelou (admission free;h9am-5pm Mon Sun), an Athonite dependency and working nunnery, where those improperly attired will get shawled up for the tour of the monastery and its 400-year-old church; as at many Orthodox monasteries, pilgrims can stay overnight for free provided they attend services. Built on top of cliffs, the monastery has magnificent views of the sea, coast and far-off Mt Athos. Activities Nature lovers and outdoor-sports enthusiasts will be satiated on Thasos west coast, where the range of activities includes scuba diving, mountain biking, bird-watching and more. From Potos, bird-watching boat trips to little Panagia Islet, a rocky, uninhabited islet covered with wild olive trees, and home to Greece s largest colony of sea cormorants, can be arranged by local environmentalist Yiannis Markianos at Aldebaran Pension ( opposite ). Also from Potos, the annual Thasos International Mountain Biking Race kicks off on the last Sunday in April. Fast becoming Greece s most popular amateur race, drawing over 200 contestants and counting, this 53km event follows a circular route from Potos east across the island s wooded interior, scales the 1204m Mt Ypsario and returns through the scenic village of Kastro. Incredibly, the entry fee is only 20, including three nights hotel accommodation. To participate, contact Yiannis Raizis (% ; ; Yiannis also rents high-quality mountain bikes year-round from his domatia in Potos, and runs guided biking and hiking tours of Thasos hidden interior. Further north, at the inland village of Rahoni, Pine Tree Paddock (% ;h10am-2pm & 5pmsunset) rents mountain ponies and horses (per hour 20), and does guided trail rides (per hour 25); call 24 hours in advance to reserve. Scuba-diving lessons for beginners and excursions for the experienced are both offered in Potos by Vasilis Vasiliadis of Diving Club Vasiliadis (% ; one of the most popular dives takes you to the underwater ancient marble quarry near Alyki on the south coast. Sleeping The seaside villages and coast are lined with signposted hotels and domatia. Inland villages sometimes have rooms, too. Camping Pefkari (% ; sites per adult/tent 3.60/4.30; hjun-sep) Located on a wooded spot above Pefkari beach, this appealing camping ground is popular with families and has very clean bathrooms; a minimum three-night stay is required. Camping Daedalos (%/fax ; sites per adult/tent around 5/2.50) Camping north of Skala Sotira is made easy at Daedalos, where tents can be rented. This beach-front camping ground includes a minimarket and restaurant. Sailing, windsurfing and water-skiing lessons are offered, too. oaldebaran Pension (% , ; Potos; d from 20; a) One street back from Potos beach, and set in a relaxing, leafy courtyard, rooms at this great budget family-run hotel have satellite TV, refrigerator and generous balconies. Travellers can benefit from the vast local knowledge of friendly owner Yiannis Markianos, who also runs the informative Gothassos.com website. Yiannis rents boats and can arrange birdwatching boat trips to Panagia Islet. MTB Yiannis Raizis Domatia (% , ; Potos; d/tr/q 45/50/55; a) A good option for large groups, these spacious self-catering studios run by mountain biking enthusiast Yiannis Raizis fit two to eight people. The place is located on Potos main road, 20m past the church and a fiveminute walk from the beach. There are sea views from the roof garden, an adjacent pool and shaded lawn bar, and a weekly curry night to placate British guests. Alexandra Hotel (% ; andrabeach.gr; d incl full board from 150; pas) One of Thasos very few real resorts, the Alexandra offers everything from total relaxation antistress programmes to active activities such as tennis and volleyball, and it has two mini-soccer fields: nonguests can pay to play. Unfortunately, few rooms have sea views. Eating O Georgios (% ; mains ) This traditional Greek grillhouse set in a pebbled rose garden is a local favourite away from the tourist strip on Potos main road, offering friendly service and big portions. Try the excellent, slow-roasted pork and chicken, or get adventurous with sykoti (liver), kokoretsi (lamb innards) or kefalaki (lamb brain) all washed down, of course, with a cold beer. Piatsa Michalis (% ; mains ) This 48-year-old beachfront taverna in Potos likes to start you off with a complementary ouzo and finish you with a complementary sweet Greek cake. In between, try the stewed rabbit or octopus in red-wine sauce, or choose from the day s fresh fish which might just include the infamous sea scorpion. Pefkospilia (% ; mezedhes 3-6, mains 8-12) At Pahys, in the shade of a large pine tree, this family-run taverna is strong on fish, such as the prized mourmoura (striped seabream), crab salad, and octopus and squid dishes. Psarotaverna To Limani (% ; mains 8-13) The best spot for seafood in Limenaria, this waterfront restaurant opposite the National Bank of Greece has a good range of fresh fish, though prices can be steep. Ciao Tropical Bar (% ) On Pahys, this is the bar to kick back and feel Hawaiian. All the fixtures, from the umbrellas to the wood-carved lamps and furniture, have been crafted by the owner s own hand, and the drinks have a similarly South-Seas character. EAST COAST Thasos east coast has the island s most famous long sandy beaches, and they do get packed in summer; nevertheless, it s less built up than the west coast and has a more relaxed feel. It also has some unique mountain villages and great natural attractions. The curious road signs on the main road near the inland mountain villages of Panagia and Potamia, referring to (Thasos) Limenas as Limin, date from a time when Panagia was the island s capital and Limenas just its harbour; the word Limin is the ancient Greek term for Limenas, and the old signs are residual reminders of the Katharevousa (linguistic cleansing ) movement popular in the mid-20th century, which sought, unsuccessfully, to replace modern Greek with an archaising high form of the language. Despite being popular with tourists, these villages have retained their characteristic architecture, especially Panagia with its stone-and-slate rooftops and sumptuously decorated, blue-and-white domed Church of the Kimisis tou Theotokou (Church of the Dormition of the Virgin), which also has a valuable icon collection. To reach this peaceful quarter, follow the sound of rushing spring water upwards along a stone path heading inland. Potamia is less picturesque, but does boast a museum devoted to Greek-American artist Polygnotos Vagis, who was born here in 1894; the Polygnotos Vagis Museum (% ; admission 3; h8.30am-noon & 6-8pm Tue-Sat, until noon Sun & holidays) is beside the main church. (The Municipal Museum of Kavala also has a collection of Vagis work see p297.) Potamia also makes a good jumping-off point for climbing Thasos highest peak, Mt Ypsario (1204m), and for general hiking. A tractor trail west from Potamia continues to NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

329 646 THASOS East Coast Book accommodation online at www. Lonely Planet Publications 647 NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS the valley s end, after which arrows and cairns point the way along a steep path upwards. The Ypsario hike is classified as being of moderate difficulty and takes about three hours. You can sleep over at the Ypsario Mountain Shelter (% ; shelter 5), but first phone Leftheris of the Thasos Mountaineering Club (% ) in Thasos (Limenas) to book and pick up the key. The shelter has no electricity, but fireplaces and spring water are provided. Both Panagia and Potamia are 4km west of the celebrated Hrysi Ammoudia (Golden ), fine and sandy and tucked inside a long, curving bay. A short rocky stretch in the middle separates Hrysi Ammoudia from the equally sandy Skala Potamia on the southern end. The latter beach has very warm and gentle water, remaining shallow for a long way out, and so is especially good for small children. A bus between the two beaches ( 1.20) runs every couple of hours. Both have accommodation, restaurants and some manner of nightlife. There is one Commercial Bank ATM in Skala Potamia, rather oddly set all by itself on the main road, 150m west of the village turn-off. Further south of Skala Potamia is the nudistfriendly Paradise, near the tiny village of Kinira; a similarly named islet lies just offshore. Accommodation and services are much more reduced both here and at Alyki, the last major beach on the southeast coast. Its two quiet stretches of sand lie back to back on a headland. A small archaeological site lies near the southern beach, where an ancient, now submerged marble quarry operated from the 6th century BC to the 6th century AD. Sleeping & Eating Domatia and small hotels run sporadically down the coast. There are much fewer at Kinira (Paradise ) and Alyki than at Hrysi Ammoudia (Golden ) and Skala Potamia. At the latter, you can find simple domatia on arrival during high season, even on the beach, especially in the rocky central section dividing Hrysi Amoudia from Skala Potamia beach. Golden Camping (% ; fax ; Hrysi Ammoudia; sites per adult/tent 3.80/4.20) A party feel pervades Golden, the only camping ground in eastern Thasos. Boasting a minimarket, bar, beach volleyball, and a strong representation of young people from Greece, Serbia, Bulgaria and beyond, Golden is a fun place to be on the best part of the beach. Hotel Kamelia (% ; elia.gr; Skala Potamia; s/d incl breakfast from 35/54) This recently renovated beach-front hotel has an understated, arty appeal, with flowery canvases, minimalist wall sculptures and cool jazz playing in the lawn-garden bar. The spacious, fresh-smelling rooms have large balconies and all mod cons. Semeli Studios (% ; Skala Potamia; d/t 50/60) The Kamelia s friendly owner Eleni Stoubou also has these larger, self-catering options just behind the hotel. From the bus stop, head towards Hryssi Ammoudia on the main road for 100m; both Hotel Kamelia and Semeli Studios are signposted on the right. Studios Stefanos (% ; Hrysi Ammoudia; s/d 60/65) Located just across from Golden Camping, these self-catering studios are kept in good order by the gracious owner, who also runs a wellstocked bar below. Thassos Inn (% ; Panagia; s/d 50/70) Panagia s best accommodation has a perfect location near the church, with sweeping views of the village s clustered slate rooftops. It has all mod cons and good-sized rooms, though the simple floors are uninspiring. Even if you don t stay, drop in for a coffee on the inn s relaxing patio café the only place in town serving frappé with ice cream. The inn is run by the welcoming Tasos Manolopoulos, who proudly shows off his vegetable patch and pool of gigantic goldfish. Taverna Elena (% ; Panagia; mains ) Just next to the traditional products shop off Panagia s central square, this classic taverna has unexpected mezedhes like bougloundi (baked feta with tomatoes and chili), and excellent roast lamb and goat. Restaurant Koralli (% ; Skala Potamia; mains ) A big, multilingual menu and waterfront setting often indicates more of the same, but some unique offerings make Koralli stand out. Tasty innovations at this Skala Potamia taverna include mushrooms stuffed with shrimp, eggplant baked with mozzarella and parmesan, zucchinis stuffed with crab, carpaccio and 330g sirloin steaks. Restaurant Vigli (% ; Hrysi Ammoudia; fish 8-10) Enjoying the excellent view of the Golden /Skala Potamia bay is only half the experience at this fish taverna up on the northern edge of Hrysi Ammoudia; the fresh fish provides the rest. Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content. NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS

330 Evia & the Sporades Εύβοια & Οι Σποράδες Lonely Planet Publications 647 In a nation known for its magical islands, Evia and the Sporades are not exactly household names. Some would be surprised, in fact, that Evia is an island at all. Joined by a short bridge at Halkida, and separated from the mainland by a narrow gulf, it s one of those places that seem to be hidden in full view. Only a couple of hours from Athens, Evia s busy gateway resorts get their car loads of weekend visitors. But across the island, the pace is slower and the landscape pristine for long stretches, dotted by hill-top monasteries, small farms and vineyards, and goats staring at you in the middle of the road. Small beaches dot the west and southeast coasts, many of them with no more than one or two tavernas, and crystal-clear bays that would be lined with matching umbrellas and beach bars elsewhere. Skyros, the southernmost of the Sporades (in Greek, scattered ones ), retains a good deal of local character, and its unique cuisine gets a thumbs up from locals and visitors alike. Closest to the mainland is Skiathos; once a sleepy fishing port, it now sees charter flights from northern Europe, and claims the sandiest beaches in the Aegean, along with several prime diving spots. Low-key Skopelos kicks back with a postcard-worthy harbour and its share of fine bays, beaches and forest meadows laced with old walking trails. Alonnisos, the most remote of the group, anchors the National Marine Park of Alonnisos established to protect the Mediterranean monk seal and is a model for ecological awareness throughout Greece. Alonnisos, like much of Evia and the other Sporades, is certain to yield unexpected finds, some from the natural landscape, and others from the good-natured islanders you ll encounter at every turn. HIGHLIGHTS Wine & Song Sipping local wines at the Wine & Cultural Festival in Karystos ( p653 ) Fish Feast Dining at the fish tavernas at Kalamakia ( p668 ), Alonnisos Wildlife Tours Spotting young dolphins in the National Marine Park of Alonnisos ( p666 ) Guided Walks Hiking the high meadows overlooking the neighbouring islands at Skopelos ( p663 ) Romantic Interlude Enjoying sunset above Linaria Bay ( p673 ) on Skyros Authentic Music Applauding the bouzouki players above the Kastro on Skopelos ( p662 ) Take the Plunge Reef diving off Tsougria, Skiathos ( p659 ) POPULATION: 228,752 Tsougria AREA : 4167 SQ KM Alonnisos Kastro Kalamakia Skopelos Linaria Bay Karystos EVIA & THE SPORADES

331 648 EVIA & THE SPORADES Getting There & Away EVIA Central Evia 649 EVIA & THE SPORADES EVIA & THE SPORADES THESSALY To Larisa (55km) E75 To Lamia (46km) Livadia To Delphi (51km) Gulf of Corinth Volos Glyfa Lihada Agios Konstantinos Pagasitikos Gulf STEREA ELLADA Alkyonides Gulf To the Peloponnese (20km) Platanias Pefki Artemisio Oreï Istiea Agiokambos Edipsos Loutra Edipsou Arkitsa Rovies Camping E75 Pelion Peninsula Skiathos Town Gulf of Evia Megara To Thessaloniki (85km) Skiathos (p655) Cape Artemisio Agia Anna Strofylia Limni Vasilika Thiva (Thebes) Loutraki (Glossa Port) Kotsikia Angeli Elefsina (Eleusis) E94 Pilio Prokopi Politika Nea Artaki Halkida Lefkandi Bay ATTICA GETTING THERE & AWAY Air Skiathos airport receives charter flights from northern Europe. There are also domestic flight services available from Athens (see p654 ). Skyros airport also handles domestic flights to and from Athens (see p669 ), as well as occasional charter flights from Oslo and Amsterdam. B u s From Athens Terminal B station (% ; Liosion 260), there are buses departing to Halkida ( 5.90, 1¼ hours, half-hourly); Paralia Kymis ( 13.20, 3½ hours, two daily), for Skyros; and to Agios Konstantinos ( 12.90, 2½ hours, hourly), for the Sporades. From Skopelos Town Skopelos (p660) Psahna Skala Oropou Alonnisos (p664) Paralia Hiliadou Mt Dirfys (1743m) Steni Katheni Eretria Patitiri Evia Milos Camping Peristera Dio Adelphi Aliveri Amarynthos Gioura Kymi Ohthonia Avlonari Neohori Gulf of Evia SPORADES Lake Dhistos Psathoura Kyra Panagia Skantzoura Paralia Kymis Lepoura Krieza 0 20 km 0 12 miles Skyropoula Kalamos Piperi Porto Zarakes Boufalo A E G E A N S E A Skyros Town Skyros (p670) Linaria Nea Agia Marina Styra Cape Styra Kafireas Kallianos Dimosari Gorge Mt Ohi (1398m) Petalia Lenosei Epanohori Gulf Marmari Myli Potami Rafina Karystos Platanistos Petali ATHENS Athens Mavromateon terminal (% ), opposite Areos Park, there are frequent buses to Rafina ( 2, one hour, every 45 minutes), for Evia. Ferry There are daily ferries to the Sporades from both Agios Konstantinos and Volos, and weekly ferries from Thessaloniki to the Sporades, as well as five ferry routes connecting Evia to the mainland. Updated summer ferry timetables are usually available in late April from the main ferry companies: GA Ferries (% ; Akti Miaouli & Kantharou 2, Piraeus) and Minoan Lines (% ; /domesticmain.htm; Thermopylon 6-10, Piraeus). FERRY CONNECTIONS TO EVIA & THE SPORADES Origin Destination Duration Fare Frequency Agia Marina Evia (Nea Styra) 45min daily Agios Konstantinos Alonnisos 4hr daily (jet ferry) Skiathos 2½hr 18 daily Skopelos 3½hr daily Arkitsa Evia (Loutra Edipsou) 35min daily Evia (Paralia Kymis) Skyros 1¾hr daily Rafina Evia (Marmari) 1hr daily Glyfa Evia (Agiokambos) 25min daily Skala Oropou Evia (Eretria) 25min 1.40 hourly Thessaloniki Skiathos 6hr weekly Volos Alonnisos 4½hr weekly Skiathos 2½hr daily Skopelos 3½hr daily Car ferry prices are roughly three times the price for one person. Some one-way prices from the main ports: Volos Skiathos ( 60) Agios Konstantinos Skiathos ( 65) Skiathos Skopelos/Alonnissos ( 18-22) Evia (Paralia Kymis) Skyros ( 25) Hydrofoil There are frequent daily hydrofoil links from both Agios Konstantinos and Volos to the northern Sporades (Skiathos, Skopelos and Alonnisos only). Updated summer hydrofoil timetables are usually available in late April from Hellenic Seaways (% ; lenicseaways.gr; Akti Kondyli & Etolikou 2, Piraeus GR ). The timetable is also available from local hydrofoil booking offices located in Volos ( p254 ) and Agios Konstantinos ( p247 ). HYDROFOIL CONNECTIONS TO EVIA & THE SPORADES Origin Destination Duration Fare Frequency Agios Konstantinos Alonnisos 3hr daily Skiathos 1½hr daily Skopelos 2½hr daily Volos Alonnisos 2½hr daily Skiathos 1¼hr daily Skopelos 2¼hr daily Glossa 1¾hr daily Train There is an hourly train service from Athens Larisis station (% ) to Halkida ( 5.10, 1½ hours) via Ioni. To Volos, there are several normal trains ( 11.30, 5½ hours) and one intercity train ( 20.70, 4½ hours). EVIA ΕΥΒΟΙΑ Evia (eh-vih-ah), Greece s second-largest island after Crete and a prime holiday destination for Greeks, remains less charted by foreign tourists. Its attractions include scenic mountain roads, challenging treks, unusual archaeological finds and mostly uncrowded beaches. A mountainous spine runs north south, dividing the island s precipitous eastern cliffs from the gentler and resort-friendly west coast. A number of ferry connections, as well as a short bridge over the narrow Evripous Channel to the island s capital, Halkida, connect the island to the mainland. The current in the channel reverses direction around seven times daily, an event whose full explanation has eluded observers since Aristotle. CENTRAL EVIA After crossing the bridge to Halkida, the road veers south, following the coastline to Eretria, a bustling resort and major archaeological site. Further on, a string of hamlets and fishing villages dot the route until the junction at Lepoura, where the road forks north towards Kymi. Several branch roads to the sea are worth exploring, and the beach at Kalamos is exceptional. Along the coastal road south of Eretria you may still see scorched hillsides from the August 2007 forest fires, especially between EVIA & THE SPORADES

332 650 EVIA Central Evia Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at EVIA Northern Evia 651 EVIA & THE SPORADES the small towns of Amarinthos and Aliveri. Inland, in the direction of Steni and Mt Dryfys, several villages were devastated by the fires, resulting in tragic loss of life. From the hillside town of Kymi, a rough but passable mountain road leads west above the north coastline to Paralia Hiliadou ( opposite ). Halkida Χαλκίδα pop 54,558 Halkida (also called Halkis) was an important city-state in ancient times, with several colonies dotted around the Mediterranean. The name derives from the bronze manufactured here in antiquity (halkos means bronze in Greek). Today it s a lively industrial and agricultural town, but with nothing of sufficient note to warrant an overnight stay. However, if you have an hour or so to spare between buses, have a look at the Archaeological Museum (% ; Leoforos Venizelou 13; admission 2; h8.30am-2.30pm Tue-Sun). It displays prehistoric, Roman and Hellenic finds from Evia s three ancient cities of Halkida, Eretria and Karystos, including the torso of Apollo from the Temple of Dafniforos at Eretria. For emergencies, call the Halkida tourist police (% ). ACTIVITIES The Sport Apollon Scuba Diving Centre (% ; h9am-1.30pm & 5-9pm) in Halkida organises dives off the Alykes coast, led by dive team Nikos and Stavroula. A one-day dive costs about 40. SLEEPING & EATING Hara Hotel (% ; in Greek; Karoni 21; s/tr/ste 50/80/110, d 60-70; pa) Should your connections require you to stay overnight in this transport hub, head for this smart place, set on the mainland side of town, overlooking the harbour. GETTING THERE & AWAY Bus From Halkida station (% ; cnr Papanastasiou & Venizelou), buses run to Athens ( 5.90, 1¼ hours, half-hourly), Eretria ( 1.80, 25 minutes, hourly) and Kymi Town ( 7.30, two hours, hourly), one of which continues to Paralia Kymis to meet the Skyros ferry. There are also buses to Steni ( 2.60, one hour, twice daily), Limni ( 6.80, two hours, three daily), Loutra Edipsou ( 9.20, 2½ hours, once daily) and Karystos ( 10.10, three hours, three daily). Train The Halkida train station (% ) is on the mainland side of the bridge. Frequent trains make the run to Athens, via Ioni (normal 5.10, 1½ hours, hourly; intercity 9.40, one hour, three daily) and to Thessaloniki, via Ioni (normal 12.90, 5½ hours, six daily; intercity 33.10, 4½ hours, three daily). Eretria Ερέτρια pop 3156 Heading southeast from Halkida, Eretria is the first place of interest, with a small harbour and a lively boardwalk filled with mainland families who pack its fish tavernas on holiday weekends. Ancient Eretria was a major maritime power and home to an eminent school of philosophy. The modern town was founded in the 1820s by islanders from Psara fleeing the Turkish. INFORMATION For emergencies, call the Halkida tourist police (% ). For internet access, head to Christos Internet Cafe-Bar (% ; per hr 2; h9am-1am) on the waterfront. SIGHTS From the top of the ancient acropolis, at the northern end of town, there are splendid views over to the mainland. West of the acropolis are the remains of a palace, temple and theatre with a subterranean passage once used by actors. Close by, the Archaeological Museum of Eretria (% ; admission 2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) contains well-displayed finds from ancient Eretria. A 200m walk will bring you to the fascinating House of Mosaics, and ends 50m further at the Sanctuary of Apollo. SLEEPING & EATING Milos Camping (%/fax ; -evia.gr/index_en.html; camp sites per adult/tent 6/4.50) This clean, shaded camping ground on the coast 1km northwest of Eretria has a small restaurant, bar and narrow pebble beach. Island of Dreams Hotel (% ; island.com.gr; s/d/f incl breakfast 50/60/95; pai) Tucked away on a nearby islet connected by a 20m causeway, the palm tree and bungalow setting is ideal for kids who can play Ping- Pong and minigolf while mum and dad sip a cool one at the beach bar. Taverna Astra (% ; Arheou Theatrou 48; mains 4-9) Just past the supermarket, this busy waterfront taverna is known for wellpriced fresh fish, along with appetisers like taramasalata (purée of fish roe, potato, oil and lemon juice). GETTING THERE & AWAY Ferry Ferries travel between Eretria and Skala Oropou ( 1.40, 25 minutes, hourly). Steni Στενή pop 926 From Halkida, it s 31km to the lovely mountain village of Steni, with its gurgling springs and shady plane trees. Steni is the starting point for a serious climb up Mt Dirfys (1743m), Evia s highest mountain. The Dirfys Refuge, at 1120m, can be reached along a 9km dirt road. From there, it s a steep 7km to the summit. Experienced trekkers should allow about six hours from Steni to the summit. For refuge reservations, contact Stamatiou (%weekdays , weekends ; per person 12). For more hiking information, contact the Halkida Alpine Club (% , ; Angeli Gouviou 22, Halkida). An excellent topo/hiking map of Mt Dirfys is published by Anavasi (No 5.11). A rough road continues from Steni to Paralia Hiliadou on the north coast, where a grove of maple and chestnut trees borders a fine pebble-and-sand beach, along with a few domatia and tavernas. Campers can find free shelter near the big rocks at either end of the beach. SLEEPING & EATING Hotel Dirfys (% ; s/d incl breakfast 30/40) Conveniently located 50m uphill from the bus terminal, this is the best value of Steni s two hotels. It has comfortable carpeted rooms, pine furniture and balcony views of the forest and stream. Taverna Orea Steni (% ; mains 4-8) The best and most attractive among 10 brookside eateries, this taverna offers grills and traditional oven-ready dishes like the popular roast lamb with cheese, along with salads prepared from locally gathered greens. Kymi & Paralia Kymis Κύμη & Παραλία Κύμης pop 3037 The untouristy, workaday town of Kymi is built on a cliff 250m above the sea. Things perk up at dusk when the town square comes to life. The port of Kymi (called Paralia Kymis), 4km downhill, is the only natural harbour on the precipitous east coast, and the departure point for ferries to Skyros. The excellent Folklore Museum (% ; h10am-1pm & 5-8pm Tue-Sun), 30m downhill from the main square, has an impressive collection of local costumes and historical photos, including a display commemorating Kymiborn Dr George Papanikolaou, inventor of the Pap smear test. SLEEPING & EATING Hotel Beis (% ; fax ; Paralia Kymis; s/d incl breakfast 40/60; pa) If you need to spend the night, try the reliable Hotel Beis, a cavernous white block with large and spotless rooms. It s conveniently opposite the ferry dock for Skyros. In Paralia Kymis, a string of tavernas and ouzeries lines the waterfront. Try Taverna Spanos (% ), near the port and popular for fresh fish and oven-ready dishes and salads. Taverna To Balkoni (% ; Kymi; mains ) Head to this family-style eatery for good lamb grills and pastitsio (layers of buttery macaroni and seasoned minced lamb), just below the square in Kymi. NORTHERN EVIA From Halkida a road heads north to Psahna, the gateway to the highly scenic mountainous interior of northern Evia. The road climbs and twists through pine forests to the rambling and woodsy village of Prokopi, home of the pilgrimage church of St John the Russian. At Strofylia, 14km beyond Prokopi, a road heads southwest to picturesque Limni, then north to Loutra Edipsou and the ferry port at Agiokambos. Loutra Edipsou Λουτρά Αιδηψού pop 3600 The classic spa resort of Loutra Edipsou has therapeutic sulphur waters, which have been celebrated since antiquity. Famous skinny dippers have included Aristotle, Plutarch and Sylla. The town s gradual expansion over the years has been tied to the improving technology required to carry the water further and further away from its thermal source. Today the town has two of Greece s most up-todate hydrotherapy and physiotherapy centres. There s also a good swimming beach (Paralia EVIA & THE SPORADES

333 652 EVIA Northern Evia Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at EVIA Southern Evia 653 EVIA & THE SPORADES Loutron), heated year-round thanks to the thermal waters, which spill into the sea. INFORMATION Dr Symeonides (% ; Omirou 17) Englishspeaking Greek-Cypriot doctor. Lan Arena (% ; internet access per hr 3; h9am-midnight) Just opposite the ferry port, in a small arcade next to the police station. Medical Centre (% ; Istiea) ACTIVITIES The more relaxing (and affordable) of the resort s two best-known spas is the EOT Hydrotherapy-Physiotherapy Centre (% ; 25 March St 37; h7am -1pm & 5-7pm 1 Jun 31 Oct), speckled with palm trees and with a large outdoor pool and terrace overlooking the sea. Whirlpool bath treatments start at a modest 7. The other is the posh Thermae Sylla Hotel & Spa (% ; Posidonos 2), with a somewhat late-roman ambience befitting its name, and offering a wide range of health and beauty treatments, from mud baths to seaweed body wraps, from around 70. SLEEPING & EATING Prices here reflect the higher summer season, 15 July to 15 September; low-season rates drop about 20%. ohotel Aegli (% ; fax ; Paraliakis 18; s/d/tr from 25/35/45; ai) For charm and value, you can t beat this neoclassic holdover from the 1930s. The high-ceilinged rooms are immense, and the lobby is decorated with framed autographs of luminaries who passed by, including Greta Garbo and Winston Churchill. The Aegli also offers 20- minute hydrotherapy baths. Hotel Kentrikon (%/fax ; hotel.com; 25th Martiou 14; s/d/tr 42/60/70; as) The friendly Kentrikon is a combination hotel and spa with old-world charm, large tiled rooms, wood ceilings and balcony views of the sea. Thermae Sylla Hotel & Spa (% ; Posidonos 2; d/ste 280/500; pai s) This posh spa offers accommodation along with its beauty treatments. If you wish to stay, you ll find elegant designer rooms with high ceilings and clear views to the sea. Captain Cook Self-Service Restaurant (% ; mains ) Fill up on oven-ready dishes like yemista (stuffed tomatoes and peppers), psari plaki (baked fish) or a hearty psarosoupa (fish soup) at this popular seaside eatery, 200m south from the port. Taverna Aegli (% ; Paraliakis 18; mains 4-8) This seaside extension of the Hotel Aegli puts together a few plates of grilled sardines, stuffed zucchini flowers and wine for about 10 per head. GETTING THERE & AWAY Bus From the bus station (% ; Thermopotamou), 250m up from the port, buses run to Halkida ( 9.20, 2½ hours, daily at 4pm), Athens ( 11.80, 3½ hours, three daily via Arkitsa) and Thessaloniki ( 21.30, five hours, daily at 10am via Glyfa). Ferry The ferry (% ) runs from mainland Glyfa to Agiokambos ( 1.50, 25 minutes, eight to 12 daily) and from mainland Arkitsa to Loutra Edipsou ( 2, 40 minutes, 10 to 12 daily). Limni Λίμνη pop 2072 One of Evia s most picturesque ports, little Limni faces seaward, its maze of whitewashed houses and narrow lanes spilling onto a busy waterfront of cafés and tavernas. The town s cultural museum (% ; admission 2; h9am-1pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-1pm Sun), just 50m up from the waterfront, features local archaeological finds along with antique looms, costumes and old coins. Seldom visited, Limni is well worth a stopover. With your own transport or a penchant for walking, you can visit the splendid 16thcentury Convent of Galataki, 8km southeast of Limni on a hillside above the road. The fine mosaics and frescoes in its katholikon (main church) merit a look, especially the Entry of the Righteous into Paradise. The convent is generally open from 9am to 6pm daily, with a good taverna under the trees nearby. SLEEPING & EATING Rovies Camping (% ; camp sites per adult/tent 6/3.50; p) Attractive, shaded and well-tended Rovies sits just above a lovely sand-and-pebble beach, 12km northwest of Limni. Zaniakos Domatia (% ; s/d 20/25; a) At these humble domatia, not much English is in evidence, but the rooms are spotless, quiet and overlook the village. Ostria Apartments (%/fax ; dayshop.gr/tapetrina; apt incl breakfast from 90; pas) Olive trees and bougainvillea surround 10 handsome self-catering apartments across the road from a pool and good beach, 1km northwest of Limni. Taverna Platanos (% ; ; mains ) Pick an outside table at this inviting waterfront taverna and enjoy the passing parade of villagers, along with excellent Greek standards like souvlaki, mousakas and gavros (anchovies). SOUTHERN EVIA Continuing east from Eretria, the road branches at Lepoura: the left fork leads north to Kymi, the right south to Karystos. A turnoff at Krieza, 3km from the junction, leads to Lake Dhistos, a shallow lake bed favoured by egrets and other wetland birds. Continuing south, you ll pass high-tech windmills and catch views of both coasts as the island narrows until it reaches the sea at Karystos Bay, near the base of Mt Ohi (1398m). Karystos Κάρυστος pop 4960 Set on the wide Karystos Bay below Mt Ohi, and flanked by two sandy beaches, Karystos is the best of southern Evia s coastal resorts. The town s central square, Amalias, faces the bay and boat harbour. Karystos is the starting point for treks to Mt Ohi and the Dimosari Gorge. INFORMATION Polihoros Internet & Sports Cafe (% ; Kriezotou 132; internet access per hr 4; h9am-1am) Next to the Galaxy Hotel. South Evia Tours (% ; fax ; set@eviatravel.gr; Amalias 7) Helps with local and island information, walking maps and excursions to Mt Ohi and Dimosari Gorge, plus bookings and accommodation. SIGHTS Karystos is mentioned in Homer s Iliad, and was a powerful city-state during the Peloponnesian Wars. The Karystos Museum (% ; admission 2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) documents the town s archaeological heritage, including tiny Neolithic clay lamps, a stone plaque written in the Halkidian alphabet, 5th-century-BC grave stelae depicting Zeus and Athena, and an exhibit of the 6thcentury drakospita (dragon houses) of Mt Ohi and Styra. The museum sits opposite a 14thcentury Venetian castle, the Bourtzi. TOURS South Evia Tours (% ; fax ; set@eviatravel.gr) offers a range of services including car hire, accommodation, maps and excursions in the foothills of Mt Ohi, trips to the 6th-century-BC Roman-built drakospita near Skyra, and a cruise around the Petali Islands ( 30). The owner, Nikos, can also arrange necessary taxi pick-up or drop-off for serious hikes to the summit of Mt Ohi and back, or guided walks to Dimosari Gorge ( 20). FESTIVALS Karystos hosts a summer Wine & Cultural Festival from early July until the last weekend in August. Weekend happenings include theatre performances and plenty of traditional dancing to the tune of local musicians, along with painting, photo and sculpture exhibits by local artists. The summer merrymaking concludes with the Wine Festival, featuring every local wine imaginable, free for the tasting. Festival schedules are available at the Karystos Museum ( left ). SLEEPING & EATING Hotel Karystion (% ; Kriezotou 3; s/d incl breakfast 45/55; pa) The Karystion s bright and well-appointed rooms with sea-view balconies are excellent value. A stairway off the courtyard leads to a sandy beach below. ocavo d Oro (% ; mains ) Join the locals in this cheery alleyway restaurant, one block west of the main square, where tasty mains include lamb in lemon sauce along with generous plates of garidha (fried shrimp) and homemade spanakopita (spinach pie). The helpful and friendly owner, Kostas, is also a regular at the summer wine festival, bouzouki in hand. Taverna Mesa-Exo (% ; mains ) The name of this boardwalk taverna means In-Out in Greek. Locals love it for its grilled fresh fish, mezedhes (appetisers) and warm atmosphere. DRINKING Check out the late-night scene around the plateia (square) where Bar Chroma (% ) delivers decent drinks and sounds, or EVIA & THE SPORADES

334 654 SKIATHOS Getting There & Away SKIATHOS Getting There & Away 655 EVIA & THE SPORADES head to the swank Club Kohili (% ), on the beach by the Apollon Suite Hotel. GETTING THERE & AWAY Bus From the Karystos bus station (% ), opposite Agios Nikolaos church, buses run to Halkida ( 10.10, three hours, two daily), to Athens ( 8, two hours, four daily) and to Marmari ( 1.50, 25 minutes, for ferry to Rafina). A taxi to Marmari is about 11. Ferry There is a regular ferry service between Marmari, 10km west of Karystos, and mainland Rafina ( 6, one hour, four to six daily). There is also a ferry service (% , ) from Nea Styra (35km north of Karystos) to Agia Marina ( 2.10, 45 minutes, four to six daily). Around Karystos The ruins of Castello Rosso (Red Castle), a 13th-century Frankish fortress, are a short walk from Myli, a delightful, well-watered village 4km inland from Karystos. A little beyond Myli there is an ancient quarry scattered with green and black fragments of the once-prized Karystian cippolino marble. With your own transport, or the help of a taxi, you can get to the base of Mt Ohi where a 1½-hour hike to the summit will bring you to the ancient drakospita, or dragon houses. The discovery of these Stonehengelike dwellings hewn from rocks weighing up to several tons has spawned a number of theories regarding their origin, ranging from slave-built temples to UFO getaways. Hikers can also head north by car from Karystos to the Dimosari Gorge and Lenosei village with views down to the coastal hamlet of Kallianos. A 10km trail to Kallianos can usually be covered in four to five hours (including time for a swim). With a local map, you can easily explore the villages and chestnut forests nestling in the foothills between Mt Ohi and the coast. For other hikes, check with South Evia Tours (% ; fax ; set@eviatravel.gr) for trail conditions and maps. The Zarka Centre (% ; Zarakes; is a residential health and creativity retreat with seminars in yoga, herbal medicine and environmental awareness, all tucked into a tranquil rural setting at Zarakes, between Kymi and Karystos. SKIATHOS ΣΚΙΑΘΟΣ pop 6160 The good news is that much of the pinefringed coast of Skiathos is blessed with exquisite beaches. The bad news is that in July and August the island is overrun with package tourists and hotel prices soar. At the island s small airport, the arrival board is filled with incoming charter flights from northern Europe, not Athens. Despite the large presence of sun-starved Europeans, Skiathos remains one of Greece s premier resorts. Skiathos Town, the island s major settlement and port, lies on the southeast coast. The rest of the south coast is a string of holiday villas and hotels, plus a number of sandy beaches with pine trees for a backdrop. The north coast is precipitous and less accessible; in the 14th century the Kastro Peninsula served as a natural fortress against invaders. Today, most people come to Skiathos for the sun and nightlife, but the truly curious will discover picturesque monasteries, hill-top tavernas and even secluded beaches. Getting There & Away AIR As well as the numerous charter flights from northern Europe to Skiathos, during summer there is one flight daily to/from Athens ( 67). Olympic Airlines (% ) has an office at the airport, not in town. FERRY In summer there are ferries from Skiathos to Volos, Agios Konstantinos and Alonnisos via Skopelos. From June through September, there is a ferry service heading north to Thessaloniki, south to Crete and east to Limnos. Tickets can be purchased from either Hellenic Seaways (% ; fax ) at the bottom of Papadiamantis, or from GA Ferries (% ; fax ), next to Alpha Bank. HYDROFOIL In summer, there are hydrofoils and jet ferries from Skiathos to Alonnisos, Skopelos FERRY DESTINATIONS FROM SKIATHOS Destination Duration Fare Frequency Volos 2½hr 15 2 daily Jun-Sep Agios Konstantinos 2½hr 18 daily Jun-Sep Alonnisos 2hr 8.80 daily Jun-Sep Skopelos 1¼hr 7.50 daily Jun-Sep Thessaloniki 6hr weekly Jun-Sep Tinos 10hr weekly Jun-Sep Mikonos 11hr 21 2 weekly Jun-Sep Paros 13hr weekly Jun-Sep Naxos 14½hr weekly Jun-Sep Ios 16hr weekly Jun-Sep Santorini 18hr weekly Jun-Sep Iraklio (Crete) 22hr weekly Jun-Sep Limnos 7hr 15 weekly SKIATHOS Cape Ag Elenis Cape Gournes Mandraki Agia Eleni Banana A E G E A N S E A Gournes Elias Koukounaries Camping Koukounaries Koukounaries Bay Cape Tourkovigia To Volos (45km); Agios Konstantinos (57km) Agistros Megalos Aselinos Maratha Troulos Mikros Aselinos Cape Ag Sozon Kehrias Bay Kehria Moni Panagias Kounistras Atrium Hotel Kastronisia Cape Kastro Kolios Troulos Kolios Paraskevi Cape Tsimokokalo Vromolimnos Kastro Skiathos Nostos Lalaria Skotini Spilia Galazia Spilia Halkini Spilia Agios Haralambos Agios Apostolis Achladies Apartments Achladies Bay Tzaneria Cape Kalamaki Moni Evangelistrias Panorama Pizza Skiathos Town Megali Amos Siferi Bay Water Taxi Ring 0 2 km 0 1 mile Rd Cape Plakes Tsougriaki Airport Taverna Agnantio Skiathos Bay Bourtzi Islet Maragos Cape Pounta Tsougria Cape Kefala Aspronisos To Skopelos (10km); Alonnisos (25km) Argos EVIA & THE SPORADES

335 656 SKIATHOS Skiathos Town Book accommodation online at SKIATHOS Skiathos Town 657 EVIA & THE SPORADES Town, Glossa, Volos, Agios Konstantinos and Thessaloniki. Hydrofoil tickets can be purchased from Hellenic Seaways. Summer Hydrofoil & Jet Ferry Connections from Skiathos Destination Duration Fare Frequency Volos 1¼hr daily Agios Konstantinos 1½hr daily Thessaloniki 3½hr daily (Flying Cat hydrofoil) Alonnisos 1hr daily Glossa 20min daily Skopelos Town 35min daily Getting Around BUS Crowded buses leave Skiathos Town for Koukounaries ( 1.20 to 1.50, 30 minutes, every half-hour between 7.30am and 11pm). The buses stop at 26 numbered access points to the beaches along the south coast. CAR & MOTORCYCLE Reliable motorbike and car-hire outlets in Skiathos Town include Europcar (% ) and Heliotropio Tourism & Travel (% ) on the new port; and Mathinos Travel (% ) on Papadiamantis. TA X I The taxi stand (% ) is opposite the ferry dock. A taxi to/from the airport costs 5. WATER TAXI Water taxis depart from the old port for Tzaneria and Kanapitsa beaches ( 3, 20 minutes, hourly) and Achladies Bay ( 2, 15 minutes, hourly). SKIATHOS TOWN Skiathos Town, with its red-roofed, whitewashed houses, is built on two low hills. Opposite the waterfront lies tiny and inviting Bourtzi Islet between the two small harbours and reached by a short causeway. The town is a major tourist centre, with hotels, souvenir shops, galleries, travel agents, tavernas and bars dominating the waterfront and narrow Papadiamanti St. Orientation The quay (wharf) is in the middle of the waterfront, just north of Bourtzi Islet. To the right (as you face inland) is the newer small boat harbour; to the left is the curving old harbour used by local fishing and excursion boats. The main thoroughfare of Papadiamanti strikes inland from opposite the quay. Trion Ierarhon is above the old harbour, next to a large church. The bus terminus is at the northern end of the new harbour. Information EMERGENCY Port police (% ) Tourist police (% ; h8am-9pm) Opposite the regular police station about halfway along Papadiamanti; open daily during the summer season. INTERNET ACCESS Creator Tours (% ; per 30min 1; h9am-9pm) Opposite the new port, inside the Europcar office. Enter Internet (% ; per hr 3.50; h9am-2am) From the port, walk up Papadiamanti and take the first left. Internet Zone Café (% ; Evangelistrias 28; per hr 2; h10am-1am) About 30m from the post office. LAUNDRY Snow White s Laundry (% ; h9am- 8pm) Behind Alpha Bank. MEDICAL SERVICES Health Centre Hospital (% ) At the beginning (west end) of ring road, above old port. Pharmacy Papantoniou (% ; Papadiamanti 18) MONEY The National Bank of Greece, Alpha Bank and numerous ATMs are on Papadiamanti and along the waterfront. POST Post office (% ; cnr Papadiamanti & Evangelistrias) Sights Skiathos was the birthplace of famous 19thcentury Greek novelist and short story writer Alexandros Papadiamantis, whose writings draw upon the hard lives of the islanders he grew up with. Papadiamantis humble house is now a charming museum (% ; Papadiamanti; admission 1; h9.30am-1.30pm & pm Tue-Sun) with a small collection of books, paintings and old photos documenting his life. Tours Excursion boats make full- and half-day trips around the island ( 9 to 20, approximately four to six hours), and usually include a visit to Cape Kastro, Lalaria and the three spilies (caves) of Halkini, Skotini and Galazia, which are only accessible by boat. A few boats also visit the nearby islets of Tsougria and Tsougriaki for swimming and snorkelling. Check out the posted daily schedules at the old harbour, or contact Mathinos Travel (% ; Papadiamantis 18) or Heliotropio Tourism & Travel (% ; at the new port. Sleeping Most accommodation is booked from July to the end of August, when prices quoted here are nearly double those of low season. There s a quayside kiosk with information and pictures of rooms and domatia. Hotel Meltemi (% ; s/d/f incl breakfast 60/70/85; a) Set well back behind a shaded entry, the inviting Meltemi has balconied rooms with views of the harbour, large bathrooms and homey touches like antique ceramics and traditional wooden ceilings. Villa Orsa (% ; fax ; s/d/f incl breakfast from 70/80/110; a) Perched above the old harbour, this classic cliffside mansion features very comfortable, traditionally styled rooms with balcony views. Breakfast is served on a garden terrace overlooking the sea. Hotel Bourtzi (% ; Moraitou 8; s/d/tr incl breakfast 105/136/150; ais) On upper Papadiamanti, the upmarket and family-friendly Bourtzi escapes much of the traffic noise of town, and features an inviting garden and two small pools (one for kids). Also recommended: Pension Lazou (% , ; s/d/apt-f 40/50/100; a) A clean and basic pension, a 50m walk up the steps, south of the old harbour. Australia Hotel (% ; fax ; Evangelistrias; s/d 45/65; a) A clean and friendly budget option around the corner from the post office. Hotel Pothos (% ; s/d incl breakfast 80/90; a) A smart courtyard inn, 30m west of post office. For last-minute accommodation in high season, try the resourceful Georgia Asvesti (% ), who often meets the boats on her motor scooter; or Sotos & Maria (% , ; sotos-2@ otenet.gr), also helpful in a pinch. Eating Many eateries in Skiathos are geared to the tourist trade and are expensive. The places listed here offer better value, and food, than most. Taverna Alexandros (% ; Mavrogiali; mains 4-9) Excellent lamb grills, traditional ovenroasted chicken and potatoes, and live acoustic Greek music await at this friendly alleyway eatery under a canopy of mulberry trees. Psaradiko Ouzeri (% ; mains 4-10) Fresh fish at decent prices brings locals to this snappy taverna at the far end of the old port; favourites include a hearty fish soup, and grilled or fried calamari. Taverna Anemos (% ; mains 6-14) Locals know this fine fish taverna overlooking the harbour for its generous portions of fresh cod, lobster, mussels and kritamos (rock samphire salad), along with several outstanding Greek wines. The cook is a diver and fisherman, and more often than not is busy grilling the morning catch. omaria s Pizza (% ; Syngrou 6; mains 8-15) You ll find superb handmade pizza (rolled out by Maria herself), stuffed garlic bread you cannot imagine, along with several pastas and dazzling salads, all in a flower-filled alleyway setting. Also recommended: Main Street (% ; Papadiamantis; breakfasts 2-4) Next to the post office, with bargain breakfast, wraps and fresh juices. Dinos (% ; Papadiamantis; mains 4-8) Reliable café on the main drag, open from early morning till around 11pm. Taverna Mouragio (% ; mains 6-10) Waterfront Mouragio offers tsipouro-friendly mezedhes, grilled calamari. Drinking okentavros Bar (% ) The longestablished and handsome Kentavros, off Papadiamanti, promises rock, soul, jazz and blues, and gets the thumbs up from locals and expats alike for its mellow ambience and good drinks. Bar Destiny (% ; Polytechniou) Look for the soft blue light coming from this hip and gay-friendly side-street bar, with music videos, draught beer and a bit of dancing when the mood hits. Ice Rooftop Bar (% ) This is a popular place to chill above the old port, with decent drinks and the longest happy hour on the waterfront. EVIA & THE SPORADES

336 658 SKIATHOS Around Skiathos Book accommodation online at SKOPELOS Getting There & Away 659 EVIA & THE SPORADES Rock & Roll Bar (% ) Huge beanbags have replaced many of the pillows outside this trendy but pricey bar by the old port, resulting in fewer customers rolling off. The dancing and drinking scene amps up after midnight along the club strip past the new harbour. Best DJs are at BBC (% ), followed by Kahlua Bar (% ), both with dancing drinkers till dawn. Entertainment Cinema Attikon (% ; Papadiamanti; admission 7; beer & snacks 2-4) Catch recent Englishlanguage movies at this open-air cinema, sip a beer and practise speed-reading your Greek subtitles at the same time. (Greece is one of the few countries in Europe to show films with original language, not dubbed.) Shopping Loupos & his Dolphins (% ; Papadiamanti; h10am-1.30pm & pm) Look for hand-painted icons, fine ceramics by Greek artists, along with gold and silver jewellery at this high-end gallery shop, next to Papadiamantis Museum. Archipelogos (% ; Papadiamanti; h11am-1pm & 8-10pm) The work of contemporary Greek artists, along with elegant traditional weavings, stands out at this intimate shop. Galerie Varsakis (% ; Trion Ierarhon; h10am-2pm & 6-11pm) Browse for unusual antiques like 19th-century spinning sticks made by grooms for their intended brides, plus Greek and African textiles. AROUND SKIATHOS es With some 65 beaches to choose from, beach-hopping on Skiathos can become a full-time occupation. Buses ply the south coast, stopping at 26 numbered beach access points. Megali Amos is only 2km from town, but fills up quickly. The first long stretch of sand worth getting off the bus for is the pine-fringed Vromolimnos. Further along, Kolios and Troulos are also good but both, alas, are very popular. The bus continues to Koukounaries, backed by pine trees and touted as the best beach in Greece. But nowadays its crowded summer scene is best viewed at a distance, from where the 1200m long sweep of pale gold sand does indeed sparkle. Banana, known for its curving shape and soft white sand, lies at the other side of a narrow headland. It is nominally a nudist beach, though the skinny-dippers tend to abscond to Little Banana (which also gets the big thumbs up from gay and lesbian sunbathers) around the rocky corner if things get too crowded. West of Koukounaries, Agia Eleni is a favourite with windsurfers. Sandy Mandraki, a 1.5km walk along a pine-shaded path, is just far enough to keep it clear of the masses. The northwest coast s beaches are less crowded but are subject to the strong summer meltemi (northeasterly winds). From Troulos (look for bus stop 19), a road heads north to Moni Panagias Kounistras, from where a right fork continues 300m to Mikros Aselinos and 5km further on to secluded Kehria. Lalaria is a tranquil strand of pale-grey, egg-shaped pebbles on the northern coast. It is much featured in tourist brochures, but only reached by excursion boat from Skiathos Town (see Tours, p657 ). Kastro Κάστρο Kastro, perched dramatically on a rocky headland above the north coast, was the fortified pirate-proof capital of the island from 1540 to 1829; an old cannon remains at the northern end. Four of the crumbling town s old churches have been restored, and the views are magnificent. Excursion boats come to the beach below Kastro, from where it s an easy clamber up to the ruins. Moni Evangelistrias Μονή Ευαγγελίστριας The most appealing of the island s monasteries is the 18th-century Moni Evangelistrias (Annunciation; % ; h8am-8pm), poised above a gorge 450m above sea level, and surrounded by pine and cypress trees. The monastery was a refuge for freedom fighters during the War of Independence. Once home to 70 monks, it now has only two monks doing the chores, which include wine-making. You can sample the tasty results of their efforts in the museum shop. An adjacent shed of old presses and vintage barrels recalls an earlier era, long before the satellite dish was installed above the courtyard. Also worth a visit is Moni Panagias Kounistras (Holy Virgin), with fine frescoes adorning its katholikon. It s 4km inland from Troulos. Activities DIVING Octopus Diving Centre (% ; -skiathos.com; new harbour) has a dive instructor team, Theofanis and Eva, who conduct halfday dives around Tsougria and Tsougriaki islets for beginners and experts alike (from 40 to 50, equipment included). Dolphin Diving (% , ; Nostos, bus stop 12) is the oldest diving school in the Sporades. It offers single dives in the 45 to 55 range (with equipment) including a morning beginners dive off Tsougriaki Islet, which explores locations to 30m deep. HIKING A 6km-long hiking route begins at Moni Evangelistrias, eventually reaching Cape Kastro, before circling back through Agios Apostolis. Kastro is a spring mecca for bird-watchers, who may catch glimpses of long-necked Mediterranean shags and singing blue-rock thrushes on the nearby rocky islets. Sleeping & Eating Koukounaries Camping (%/fax ; camp sites per adult/tent 8.50/4; p) Shaded by fig and mulberry trees, this excellent site near the eastern end of Koukounaries features spotless toilets and showers, cooking facilities, laundry and a nearby minimarket and taverna. oachladies Apartments (% ; Achladies Bay; d/tr/f incl breakfast 50/65/87, 2-night min; p) Look for the hand-painted yellow sign to find this welcoming gem, 3km from Skiathos Town. It offers self-catering rooms with ceiling fans, an ecofriendly tortoise sanctuary and a succulent garden winding down to a taverna and sandy beach, from where a water taxi makes 20-minute runs to Skiathos Town. Atrium Hotel (% ; Paraskevi ; s/d/tr 98/130/170; pais) Traditional architecture and modern amenities make this handsome property the best in its class. Perched on a pine-covered hillside, it offers facilities such as satellite TV, a pool bar and a game lounge with Ping-Pong and billiards. Panorama Pizza (% ; pizzas 7-10; hnoon-4pm, 7pm-late) Up the hill (2.5km) from the ring road, excellent Panorama overlooks Skiathos Bay below. Taverna Agnantio (% ; mains 6-11) Familyrun Agnantio attracts both locals and tourists, who come early to catch house specialities like slow-roasted lamb. It s 400m off the ring road, with superb terrace views down to the harbour. Reservations are a must from July to August. SKOPELOS ΣΚΟΠΕΛΟΣ pop 4700 Less commercialised than Skiathos, Skopelos is a beautiful island of pine forests, vineyards, olive groves and orchards of plums and almonds, which find their way into many local dishes. Like Skiathos, the high cliffs of the northwest coast are exposed, while the sheltered southeast coast harbours several sand and pebble beaches. There are two large settlements: the capital and main port of Skopelos Town on the east coast; and the unspoilt west coast village of Glossa, 3km north of Loutraki, the island s second port. In 1936 Skopelos yielded an exciting archaeological find, a royal tomb dating to ancient times, when the island was an important Minoan outpost ruled by Stafylos, the son of Ariadne and Dionysos in Greek mythology. The Minoan ruler Stafylos ( grape in Greek) is said to have introduced wine-making here. Getting There & Away FERRY In summer there are daily ferries between Skopelos and Alonnisos, Skiathos, Volos and Agios Konstantinos. Tickets are available from Hellenic Seaways (% ; fax ) opposite the new quay; and Lemonis Agency (% ) in Pension Lemonis towards the end of the new quay. Summer Ferry Connections from Skopelos Town & Glossa Origin Destination Duration Fare Frequency Skopelos Town Alonnisos 30min weekly Skopelos Town Skiathos 1hr 7.50 daily Skopelos Town Volos 4hr daily Skopelos Town Agios 3½hr (jet Konstantinos ferries) daily Glossa Volos 3¼hr daily (morning) HYDROFOIL Skopelos has two hydrofoil ports, the main one at Skopelos Town and the other to the northwest at Glossa s port of Loutraki, both with service to Alonnisos and Skiathos. EVIA & THE SPORADES

337 660 SKOPELOS Getting Around Book accommodation online at SKOPELOS Skopelos Town 661 EVIA & THE SPORADES There are also hydrofoils from Skopelos Town to Volos ( 27.50, 1¾ hours, three daily) and to Agios Konstantinos ( 30.50, two hours, two to three daily) In Skopelos Town, purchase tickets from Hellenic Seaways (% ; fax ); in Glossa, from Hellenic Seaways (% ; fax ). Summer Hydrofoil Connections from Skopelos Town & Glossa Origin Destination Duration Fare Frequency Skopelos Town Alonnisos 20min daily Skopelos Town Skiathos 45min daily Glossa Skopelos Town 30min daily Glossa Skiathos 20min daily Glossa Alonnisos 55min daily SKOPELOS To Skiathos (10km); Volos (55km); Agios Konstantinos (67km) To Skiathos (10km) Glossa Skopelos Strait Cape Gourouni S E A Perivoliou Klima A E G E A N Mahalas Pension Platanas Loutraki Kalyves Armenopetra 383m Elios Kastani Dasia Milia Andrines Panormos Cape Myti Church of Agios Ioannis Kaloyeros 690m Skopelos Limnonari Rooms Limnonari Agnontas Getting Around BUS There are eight buses per day from Skopelos Town all the way to Glossa/Loutraki ( 3.90, one hour), three that go only as far as Panormos ( 1.90, 25 minutes) and Milia ( 2.60, 35 minutes), and another two that go only as far as Agnontas ( 1.20, 15 minutes) and Stafylos ( 1.20, 15 minutes). CAR & MOTORCYCLE Several car- and motorcycle-rental outlets line the harbour in Skopelos Town, mostly located at the eastern end of the waterfront, including the friendly and efficient Motor Tours (% ; fax ) next to Hotel Eleni. A E G E A N S E A Glysteri Skopelos Town Ring Rd Skopelos Bay Moni Episkopis 258m Cape Velona Ostria Hotel Moni Varvaras Moni Evangelistrias 567m Alonnisos Strait Moni Prodromou Agios Georgios Moni Metamorfosis Sotiros Velanio Stafylos Mando Rooms 0 4 km 0 2 miles Cape Kiourto To Alonnisos (12km) TA X I The taxi stand is next to the bus stop along the waterfront. A taxi to Stafylos is 7, to Limnonari 12, to Glossa 25. WATER TAXI A regular water taxi departs late morning for Glysteri ( 5 one way), and returns at about 5pm. SKOPELOS TOWN Skopelos Town is one of the most captivating ports in the Sporades. It skirts a semicircular bay and clambers in tiers up a hillside, culminating in an old fortress and a cluster of four churches. Dozens of other churches are interspersed among dazzling white houses with brightly shuttered windows and floweradorned balconies. Orientation Skopelos Town s waterfront is flanked by two quays. The old quay is at the western end of the harbour and the new quay is at the eastern end, used by all ferries and hydrofoils. From the dock, turn right to reach the bustling waterfront lined with cafés, souvenir shops and travel agencies; turn left (20m) for the bus stop. Less than 50m away is Platanos, also known as Souvlaki Sq. Information BOOKSHOPS International newsstand (% ; h8am- 10pm) Twenty metres up from bus stop. EMERGENCY Police (% ) Above the National Bank. Port police (% ) INTERNET ACCESS Blue Sea Internet Café (% ; per hr 3; h8am-2am) End of the waterfront, beneath the Kastro steps. Skopelos Internet Café (% ; per hr 3; h9am-midnight) Next to the post office. LAUNDRY Blue Star Washing (% ) Near the OTE office. MEDICAL SERVICES Health Centre (% ) On the ring road, next to the fire station. MONEY There are three banks with ATMs along the waterfront. POST Post office South of Platanos Sq, 100m on the right. TRAVEL AGENCIES Madro Travel (% ; At the end of the new port, Madro can provide help with booking accommodation and ticketing, and arrange walking trips, cooking lessons, even marriages. Thalpos Holidays (% ; islands.com) The helpful staff at this waterfront agency offer a range of services including apartment and villa accommodation and tours around the island. Sights Strolling around town and sitting at the waterside cafés might be your chief occupations in Skopelos, but there is also a small Folk Art Museum (% ; Hatzistamati; admission 2; h10am-10pm) with a Skopelean wedding room, complete with traditional costumes and bridal bed. Tours Day-long cruise boats ( 20 to 45) depart from the new quay by 10am, and usually take in the Marine Park of Alonnisos ( p666 ), pausing en route for lunch and a swim. There s a good chance of spotting dolphins along the way. For bookings, contact Thalpos Holidays (% ) or Madro Travel (% ) on the waterfront. Sleeping Hotel prices quoted are for the July to August high season, but are often reduced by 30% to 50% at other times. The Rooms & Apartments Association (% ; h8.30am-2pm), next to the ferry dock, can help with accommodation. BUDGET osotos Pension (% ; elos.net/sotos; s/d 35/50; a) The traditional pine rooms at this charming waterfront pension are each a bit different; an old brick oven serves as a handy shelf in one. There s an interior courtyard, a whitewashed terrace overlooking the bay and a communal kitchen which is kept well stocked by the welcoming owner, Alexandra (Alex, for short). EVIA & THE SPORADES

338 662 SKOPELOS Skopelos Town Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at SKOPELOS Glossa 663 EVIA & THE SPORADES Hotel Regina (% ; s/d incl breakfast 40/55; a) Rooms at the vaguely Victorian and very friendly Regina have ceiling fans and small balconies. Breakfast is served on the rooftop veranda overlooking the nearby harbour. MIDRANGE Hotel Agnanti (%/fax ; /agnanti; s/d/tr incl breakfast from 45/65/90; pai) Theo and Eleni run the show at this inviting 12-room hotel on the far bay, with ceiling fans, traditional ceramic and wood decorations, plus a paperback lending library. Perivoli Studios (% , ; d/tr 60/70; pa) These stylish self-catering studios occupy a traditional building just off the ring road, each with a terrace overlooking an orchard of olive and fruit trees. Hotel Dionyssos (% ; s/d/tr incl breakfast 100/120/130; pas) The low-key Dionyssos occupies a quiet street between the ring road and the waterfront. The upper rooms offer balcony views of the harbour. Even in summer, the large lobby is cool and inviting, and a pool bar awaits just outside. Eating Just 100m up from the dock, Souvlaki Sq is perfect for a quick bite of gyros or, not surprisingly, souvlaki. Skopelos is known for a variety of plum-based recipes, and most tavern as will have one or two on the menu. Taverna O Angelos (% ; mains 5-8) The oldest taverna on the island, O Angelos sits at the end of the old quay. Ready-to-eat oven dishes include hearty staples like lamb stifadho and stuffed zucchini. Taverna Englezos (% ; mains 7-11) The newest restaurant on the waterfront serves great grills at good prices half a chicken on the spit for 7, tasty foil-wrapped and ovenbaked lamb (kleftiko) for 9. In true Greek style, your meal usually ends with fresh fruit, on the house. oto Perivoli Restaurant (% ; mains 7-12) Just up from Souvlaki Sq, Perivoli promises excellent Greek cuisine and snappy service in an elegant and vine-covered courtyard setting. Specialities include rolled pork with koromila (local plums) in wine sauce and seafood risotto, plus a great selection of Greek wines. Anna s Restaurant (% ; Gifthorema; mains 7-12) On Wednesday, the menu at this handsome courtyard bistro is devoted to authentic Skopelos dishes such as tyropita (cheese pie) or lamb in plum sauce. Look for the palm tree in the courtyard. Also recommended: Michalis (% ; snacks & cakes 2-5; h9am-11pm) One of the best spots for traditional tyropita, with several variations on the theme. Nastas Ouzerie (% ; mezedhes , mains 6-10) Snappy ouzerie near the ring road, with first-rate mezedhes. DIA Discount Supermarket (% ; h8.30am-9.30pm) Will appeal to self-caterers, with its good prices and well-stocked aisles. Drinking Platanos Jazz Bar (% ) Near the end of the old quay, this leafy courtyard bar is open for morning coffee and late-night drinks, making it the ideal place to recover from a hangover, or to prepare for one. Oionos Blue Bar (% ) Cosy and cool, little Oionos draws a local crowd to its traditional Skopelean digs, where it serves up blues and soul along with 19 brands of beer and 25 malt whiskies at last count. Le Bistro (% ; Souvlaki Sq) Up market Le Bistro s wine and cocktail bar often exhibits the work of local painters and photographers. Anemos Espresso Bar (% ; coffees & snacks 2-4; h8am-1am) Count on excellent coffee and fresh juice at this shaded waterfront café. Shopping Gray Gallery (% , ) Works by island and visiting artists are featured in this low-key fine art gallery. Archipelogos (% ; waterfront) Worth a browse for the fine collection of antiques, jewellery and old icons. Entertainment Ouzerie Anatoli (% ; h7pm-2am, summer only) For mezedhes and traditional music, head to this breezy ouzerie, high above the Kastro. From 11pm onwards you will hear traditional rembetika (blues) music sung by Skopelos own exponent of the Greek blues, Georgos Xindaris. Follow the path up the (steep) steps past Agio Apostolis church at the northern end of the quay, or take a taxi from the port ( 5). The summer club scene livens up late along Doulidi, near the post office and the small church of Panagia Eleftherotria. Panselinos (% ; Doulidi; h10pm-3am) mixes Greek pop sounds with live performances on summer weekends. The nearby Metro Club (% ; Doulidi; h9pm-3am) plays mostly highvolume Greek pop. GLOSSA ΓΛΩΣΣΑ Glossa, Skopelos other major settlement, is considerably quieter than the capital. Another whitewashed delight, it has miraculously managed to retain the feel of a pristine Greek village. The bus stops in front of a large church at a T-junction. One road winds down 3km to the port of Loutraki and a few domatia and tavernas; the other leads nearby to a bank, pharmacy, bakery and a few small stores. Sleeping & Eating Pension Platanas (% ; Glossa; s/d 20/30) Close to nothing in particular, this friendly family pension with views to the sea is only 3km to the ferry port at Loutraki. Kyra Lena Bakery (% ; snacks ) Check out the huge brick oven at Glossa s newest bakery, with tyropita, piperopita (sweet peppers and feta pie) and roasted almonds among the breads and little cakes. Flisvos Taverna (% ; Loutraki; mains 3-7) Perched above the rocks at the little port of Loutraki, this end-of-the-road family taverna offers fresh fish at decent prices, fresh chips, homemade mousakas, and traditional appetisers like taramasalata. Agnanti Taverna & Bar (% ; mains 7-12) Enjoy the views of Evia from swank Agnanti s rooftop terrace, along with Greek fusion dishes like grilled sardines on pita with sea fennel and sun-dried tomatoes, followed by simmered pork with plums. From July to August, book ahead. AROUND SKOPELOS Monasteries Skopelos has several monasteries that can be visited on a beautiful scenic drive or daylong trek from Skopelos Town. Begin by following the road (Monastery Rd), which skirts the bay and then climbs inland. Continue beyond the signposted Hotel Aegeon until the road forks. Take the left fork, which ends at the 18th-century Moni Evangelistrias, now a convent. The monastery s prize, aside from the superb views, is a gilded iconostasis containing an 11th-century icon of the Virgin Mary. The right fork leads to the uninhabited 16th-century Moni Metamorfosis Sotiros, the island s oldest monastery. From here a decent track continues to the 17th-century Moni Varvaras with a view to the sea, and to the 18th-century Moni Prodromou (now a convent), 8km from Skopelos Town. Moni Episkopis rests within the Venetian compound of a private Skopelian family, about 250m beyond the ring road. Ring Apostolis (% ) for details and an invitation. The small chapel within is a wonder of light and Byzantine icons. es Skopelos beaches are mostly pebbled, and almost all are on the sheltered southwest and west coasts. All bus services stop at the beginning of paths that lead down to the beaches. The first beach you come to is the sand-and-pebble Stafylos (site of Stafylos tomb), 4km southeast of Skopelos Town. From the eastern end of the beach a path leads over a small headland to the quieter Velanio, the island s official nudist beach and a great snorkelling spot. Agnontas, 3km west of Stafylos, has a small pebbleand-sand beach and from here caïques sail to the superior and sandy Limnonari, in a sheltered bay flanked by rocky outcrops. Limnonari is also a 1.5km walk or drive from Agnontas. From Agnontas the road cuts inland through pine forests before re-emerging at the sheltered and popular Panormos. One kilometre further, little Andrines is sandy and less crowded. The next two beaches, Milia and Kastani, are considered to be two of the island s best for swimming. Tours If you can t tell a Cleopatra butterfly from a Madonna lily or Leopard orchid, join one of island resident Heather Parson s guided walks (% ; tours 15-20). Her three-hour walk above Skopelos Town follows an old path into the hills, and offers views to Alonnisos and Evia. Her book, Skopelos Trails, contains graded trail descriptions and illustrated maps, and is available in waterfront stores ( 16). EVIA & THE SPORADES

339 664 ALONNISOS Book accommodation online at ALONNISOS Patitiri 665 EVIA & THE SPORADES Sleeping & Eating There are small hotels, domatia, tavernas and beach canteens at Stafylos, Agnontas, Limnonari, Panormos, Andrines and Milia. omando Rooms (% ; s/d/tr/f 80/90/110/150; pa) Having its own cove on the bay at Stafylos is a good start at this welcoming and familyoriented pension. Other extras include free coffee, a communal kitchen, satellite TV, and a platform over the rocks to enter the water. Limnonari Rooms & Taverna (% ; Limnonari ; d/tr/ ste 60/80/120; pa) Set back on a beautiful and sandy bay, this well-managed domatia features self-catering ministudios, along with ALONNISOS Alonnisos Strait Cape Kokkinos To Skopelos (12km); Skiathos (25km); Agios Konstantinos (79km) A E G E A N Vrysitsa Megalos Mourtias S E A Islet of Manolas Old Alonnisos (Hora) Vithisma Cape Maïstra Cape Marpounta Megali Ammos Bay Cape Kalami 348m Alonnisos a well-equipped communal kitchen and terrace, all about 30m from the water. The garden taverna (mains 6 to 8) serves a perfect vegetarian mousakas, along with the owner s homemade olives and feta. ALONNISOS ΑΛΟΝΝΗΣΟΣ pop 2700 Alonnisos rises from the sea like a mountain of greenery with thick stands of pine and oak, along with mastic and arbutus bushes, and fruit trees. The west coast is mostly precipitous cliffs but the east coast is speckled Mourtero Kalamakia Steni Vala Diasello Leftos Gialos Glyfa Ikaros Camping Ydoneri Merada Gerakas Cove Gerakas Marine Research Station 316m Cape Gerakas Blue Cave Agios Dimitrios Vasilikos Bay Peristera 260m 180m To Kyra Panagia (6km); Giora (8km) Pelagonisos Strait Cape Paliofanaro Kokkinokastro Hrisi Milia Votsi Patitiri Rousoum Patitiri Bay A E G E A N S E A Camping Rocks Excursion Boat Agios Petros Cape Kokkinokastro 0 4 km 0 2 miles Cape Gregali Lehousa with small bays and pebbly beaches. The water around Alonnisos has been declared a national marine park, and is the cleanest in the Aegean. Lovely Alonnisos has had its share of bad luck. In 1952, the flourishing cottage wine industry came to a halt, when vines imported from California were struck with the disease phylloxera. Robbed of their livelihood, many islanders moved away. Then, in 1965, an earthquake destroyed the hill-top capital of Alonnisos Town. The inhabitants were subsequently rehoused in hastily assembled dwellings at Patitiri. Getting There & Away FERRY From Alonnisos, there are ferries to Skopelos Town ( 4.60, 30 minutes, three to four per week) and to Skiathos ( 8.80, two hours, daily from June to September), to Volos ( 18.90, 4½ hours, two weekly), to Agios Konstantinos ( 36, four hours by jet ferry, daily), and to Thessaloniki ( 23.20, seven hours, three per week). Outside of the summer season, service is less frequent. Check with ferry companies for current routes and schedules. Tickets can be purchased from Alonnisos Travel (% ) in Patitiri. HYDROFOIL In summer, hydrofoils connect Alonnisos to Skopelos Town ( 7.70, 20 minutes, five daily), to Glossa ( 12.20, one hour, four daily), to Skiathos ( 14.70, 1½ hours, five daily), to Volos ( 32.50, three hours, three daily) and to Agios Konstantinos ( 36.50, three hours, two daily). Tickets may be purchased from Alkyon Travel (% ) in Patitiri. Getting Around B O AT lonnisos Travel (% ) rents out fourperson 15HP to 25HP motorboats. The cost ranges from 48 to 60 per day in summer. BUS In summer, one bus plies the route between Patitiri (from opposite the quay) and Old Alonnisos ( 1.20, hourly 9am to about 3pm). There is also a service to Steni Vala from Old Alonnisos via Patitiri ( 1.30, twice daily). CAR & MOTORCYCLE Several motorcycle-hire outlets can be found on Pelasgon, in Patitiri, including reliable I m Bike (% ). Be wary when riding down to the beaches, as some of the sandand-shale tracks are steep and slippery. Also try Nefeli Bakery & Rent-A-Car (% ) and Albedo Travel (% ). TA X I The four taxis on the island (Georgos, Periklis, Theodoros, Spyros) tend to congregate opposite the quay. It s 5 to Old Alonnisos, 8 to Megalos Mourtias and 12 to Steni Vala. WATER TAXI The easiest way during summer to get to and from the east-coast beaches is by taking the water taxi (% ) that leaves from the quay at 11am and returns by about 5.30pm. The main stops are Kokkinokastro ( 7), Steni Vala ( 9) and Agios Dimitrios ( 10). PATITIRI ΠΑΤΗΤΗΡΙ Patitiri sits between two sandstone cliffs at the southern end of the east coast. Despite its hasty origins following the devastating 1965 earthquake that levelled the old hill-top capital (Palia Alonnisos), Patitiri is gradually improving its homely looks. The town is small and relaxed, and makes a convenient base for exploring Alonnisos. Patitiri means wine press and is where grapes were processed prior to the demise of the wine industry in the 1950s. Orientation Finding your way around Patitiri is easy. The quay is in the centre of the waterfront and two roads lead inland. With your back to the sea, turn left for Pelasgon, or right for Ikion Dolopon. In truth, there are no road signs and most locals simply refer to them as the left-hand road (Pelasgon) and righthand road (Ikion Dolopon). Information EMERGENCY Police (% ) At the northern end of Ikion Dolopon; there is no tourist police office. Port police (% ) On the quay at Patitiri. EVIA & THE SPORADES

340 666 ALONNISOS Patitiri Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at ALONNISOS Old Alonnisos 667 EVIA & THE SPORADES INTERNET ACCESS Play Café (% ; per hr 4; h9am-2pm & 6-9pm) Across the road from the National Bank. Techno Plus (% ; per hr 3; h9am-2pm & 5-9pm) On the right-hand road, opposite the school. LAUNDRY Lena s Gardenia (% ; Pelasgon) MONEY National Bank of Greece Southern end of Ikion Dolopon, with an ATM. POST Post office (Ikion Dolopon) 100m from the bus stop. Sights The Folklore Museum of the Northern Sporades (% ; admission 3; h11am-7pm) is largely a labour of love by the Mavrikis family, and includes an extensive display of pirates weapons and tools, a horseshoe shop and antique nautical maps. A small café sits atop the museum with views of the harbour. Take the stone stairway at the far west end of the harbour. NATIONAL MARINE PARK OF ALONNISOS In a country not noted for ecological longsightedness, the Alonnisos Marine Park is a welcome innovation. Started in 1992, its prime aim has been the protection of the endangered Mediterranean monk seal (Monachus monachus). See the boxed text ( opposite ). The park is divided into two zones. The carefully restricted Zone A comprises a cluster of islets to the northeast, including Kyra Panagia. Zone B is home to Alonnisos itself and Peristera. In summer, licensed boats from Alonnisos and Skopelos conduct excursions through the marine park. Though it s unlikely you ll find the shy monk seal, your chances of spotting dolphins (striped, bottlenose and common) are fairly good. Activities WALKING Walking opportunities abound on Alonnisos, and the best ones are waymarked. At the bus stop in Old Alonnisos a blue notice board details several walks. From Patitiri, a 2km donkey path winds up through shrubbery and orchards before bringing you to Old Alonnisos. The informative Alonnisos on Foot: A Walking & Swimming Guide, by Bente Keller and Elias Tsoukanas, is available at waterfront shops, along with The Alonnisos Guide by the same authors, detailing the history of the island. Consider a guided walk (% ; walks 15-30) with island resident Chris Browne. A half-day walk above Patitiri winds through pine forest trails, past churches and olive groves overlooking the sea. CYCLING The best mountain-bike riding is over on the southwest coast around the bay of Megali Ammos. There are several bicycle- and motorcycle-hire outlets on Ikion Dolopon. Tours Three professional travel agencies on the water front provide maps and arrange popular marine park excursions. Inquire at Ikos Travel (% ; for popular round-the-island guided excursions aboard the Gorgona (a classic Greek boat captained by island native, Pakis Athanasiou), which visit the Blue Cave on the northeast coast, and the islets of Kyra Panagia and Peristera in the marine park, with swimming breaks along the way. Albedo Travel (% ; runs regular snorkelling and swimming excursions to Skantzoura and nearby islands, and even arranges island weddings. Alonnisos Travel (% ; also runs marine park excursions aboard the Planitis. Sleeping Prices here are for the higher July to August season; expect discounts of about 25% or more at other times. Rooms to Let Service (% ; fax ; h9.30am-2pm & pm), opposite the quay, offers a room-finder service in July and August only. BUDGET Camping Rocks (% ; camp sites per adult/tent 6/3) Follow the signposts in town for Camping Rocks, a rough but shaded coastal spot 1km south of Patitiri. Pension Pleiades (% ; pleiadeshotel@yahoo.gr; s/d/tr from 25/35/50; ai) This bright and cheerful budget option offers views of Patitiri Bay, along with nine immaculate, balconied rooms, plus four family-sized studios with kitchenette. Take the stairway behind the newsstand. Ilias Rent Rooms (% ; fax ; Pelasgon 27; d 45, 2-/3-bed studios 50/55; a) Owners Ilias and Magdalini give their spotless domatia a warm and welcoming touch. Rooms and studios share a communal kitchen. MIDRANGE oliadromia Hotel (% ; fax ; d/tr/ste incl breakfast 50/70/85; pai) This welcoming and impeccably maintained hotel overlooking the harbour was Patitiri s first. All the rooms have a bit of character, from handembroidered curtains and old lamps to stone floors and traditional wood furnishings. Nina Studios (% ; d/f 50/80; pa) Take the stairs opposite the bank to these self-catering studios with stone floors, iron beds and large bathrooms, and vine-covered balcony views of Patitiri harbour. Paradise Hotel (% ; -hotel.gr; s/d/tr 65/80/100; ps) Wood ceilings and stone-tiled floors give a rustic feel to the balconied rooms, which overlook the bay or Patitiri harbour. Room prices include a buffet breakfast at the pool terrace. Eating Anais Restaurant & Pizzeria (% ; mains 5-12; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Patitiri s first restaurant, opposite the hydrofoil dock, is still going strong. You ll find tasty souvlakia, hefty Greek salads and a house favourite, kleftiko (slow-ovenbaked lamb). To Kamaki Ouzerie (% ; Ikion Dolopon; mains 5-15) Start off with a sip of ouzo and mezedhes like fresh Alonnisos tuna salad at this traditional seafood eatery, then move on to the shrimp souvlaki or blow the budget on grilled local lobster. Also recommended: Taverna Archipelagos (% ; mains 4-8) Opposite the hydrofoil dock, and a local favourite for Greek mezedhes and grills. Café Flisvos (% ; mains 5-8) Under the canopy opposite the dock, with excellent oven-ready dishes at decent prices. OLD ALONNISOS ΠΑΛΙΑ ΑΛΟΝΝΙΣΟΣ Old Alonnisos (also known as Palia Alonnisos, Hora, Palio Horio or Old Town), with its winding stepped alleys, is a tranquil, picturesque place with lovely views. From the main road just outside the village an old donkey path leads down to pebbled Megalos Mourtias and other paths lead south to Vithisma and Marpounta es. Sleeping Old Alonnisos has no hotels, but there are several well-managed domatia. Fantasia House (% ; Hristou; s/d 30/40) Tucked away between the church and square, these simple rooms are good value, and there is a snack bar in the courtyard. Pension Hiliadromia (%/fax ; Hristou; d/2-bed studio 35/55; a) Several of the pine-and-stone-floor rooms at the Hiliadromia come with balcony views, and the studios have well-equipped kitchens. okonstantina Studios (% ; s/d 40/50; a) Among the nicest accommodations on Alonnisos, these handsome and quiet self-catering studios with traditional styling come with balcony views of the southwest coast. The owner makes it a point to fetch her guests from the dock. Eating ohayati (% ; Old Alonnisos; snacks & mains 2-7; h9am-2am) Hayati is both a sweets shop at the upper entrance, and a late-night taverna and piano bar below, with sweeping views of the island from either level. Morning THE MONK SEAL Once populating hundreds of colonies in the Black Sea and the Mediterranean, as well as along the Atlantic coast of Africa, the Mediterranean monk seal has been reduced to about 400 individuals today. Half of these live in waters between Greece and Turkey. One of the earth s rarest mammals, this seal is on the list of the 20 most endangered species worldwide. Major threats include deliberate killings by fishermen who see the seal as a pest that tears holes in their nets and robs their catch incidental capture in fishing gear, decreasing food supply as fisheries decline, habitat destruction and pollution. Recognising that this seal may become extinct if not protected, Greece established the National Marine Park of Alonnisos in 1992 (see opposite ), to both protect the seal and to promote recovery of fish stocks. For more information, visit EVIA & THE SPORADES

341 668 ALONNISOS Around Alonnisos SKYROS Getting There & Away 669 EVIA & THE SPORADES fare includes made-to-order Alonnisos tyropita. Later, you ll find homemade pastas and juicy souvlaki, along with the gracious hospitality of owner-cooks Meni and Angela. It s a five-minute walk from the village square. Astrofengia (% ; mains 5-12) This gracious courtyard taverna, near the bus stop, offers excellent cannelloni and fine mezedhes like saganaki (fried cheese) and dolmadhes. For dessert, find a way to squeeze in a slice of galaktoboureko (homemade custard pie). Taverna Megalos Mourtias (% ; mains 4-8; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) A stone s throw from the surf, this laid-back taverna and beach bar prepares good salads and souvlakia, plus a hearty fish soup. AROUND ALONNISOS Alonnisos main road reaches the northern tip of the island at Gerakas (19km), home to an EU-funded marine research station. Six kilometres north of Patitiri, another sealed road branches off to the small fishing port and yacht harbour of Steni Vala, and follows the shore past Kalamakia for 5km. A third road takes you from Patitiri to Megalos Mourtias. The island s east coast is home to several small bays and beaches. The first one of note, tiny Rousoum, is tucked between Patitiri and Votsi and very popular with local families. THE ORIGINAL CHEESE PIE Next is the sandy and gently sloping Hrysi Milia, another kid-friendly beach. Two kilometres on, Cape Kokkinokastro is the site of the ancient city of Ikos, with remains of city walls under the sea. Continuing north, the road branches off 2km to Leftos Gialos, with a lovely pebble beach and the superb Taverna Eleonas (% ). Steni Vala, a small fishing village and deepwater yacht port with a permanent population of no more than 40, has two small but decent beaches; pebbly Glyfa just above the village and sandy Agios Petros just below. Steni Vala is also home to the marine park s Rescue and Rehabilitation Centre for the Mediterranean monk seal. Four tavernas overlook the small marina, with To Farnari (% ) claiming the best views of the harbour and open from morning till midnight. There are 30-odd rooms in domatia, as well as modest Ikaros Camping (% ), next to the beach and decently shaded by olive trees. Try Ikaros Café & Market (% ) for reliable lodging information and more. Kalamakia, 2km further north, is the last village of note, and has a few domatia and tavernas. The fishing boats usually tie up directly in front of Margarita s Taverna (% ), where the morning catch of fish and lobster seems to jump from boat to plate. Tyropita (cheese pie) is almost deified in the northern Sporades. The popular pie is made with goats cheese and delicate filo dough, the same flaky crust as in sweet baklava. The filled dough is rolled and coiled up, then fried quickly and served hot a method that evolved in the woodoven kitchens of Alonnisos. Of course, like anything with a place in folklore, the pie s origins are open to debate. One version, popular on neighbouring Skopelos, has it that when spanikopita (spinach pies) were slowly baking, resourceful mothers quieted hungry children by tearing off a piece of filo, throwing in a handful of cheese, and frying it quickly with a reprimand, Here, stop your screaming. Alonnisos residents tell another version and claim that history is on their side. In the 1950s, following the collapse of the cottage wine industry, many struggling Alonnisos farmers went to work on neighbouring Skopelos, picking plums. Their salty cheese pie lasted all day in the fields. Not surprisingly, it soon appeared in the country kitchens of Skopelos. In the 1990s, a popular daytime TV host touted the pie, but credited Skopelos with its origin. Predictably, frozen Skopelos Cheese Pie soon showed up on mainland supermarket shelves. Today, you can even buy it in the Athens airport departure lounge, the deterioration of an imitation, according to a longtime Alonnisos resident, Pakis. But don t count on the frozen pie resembling the original and superior island version. Of course, the tasty treat has evolved over the years, and you will find breakfast versions with sugar and cinnamon, and others using wild greens or lamb, especially popular in winter with red wine. Stunned Alonnisos folk still can t get over what s happened to their simple and delicious recipe. As one Skopelos businesswoman, Mahi, confided, Basically, we stole it! Beyond Kalamakia, the sealed road continues 3km to a wetland marsh and Agios Dimitrios, with a canteen and domatia opposite a graceful stretch of white pebbles. Beyond this, the road narrows to a footpath heading inland. ISLETS AROUND ALONNISOS Alonnisos is surrounded by eight uninhabited islets, all of which are rich in flora and fauna. Piperi, the furthest island northeast of Alonnisos, is a refuge for the monk seal and is strictly off-limits. Gioura, also off-limits, is home to an unusual species of wild goat known for the crucifix-shaped marking on its spine. Excursion boats can visit an old monastery and olive press on Kyra Panagia. The most remote of the group, Psathoura, boasts the submerged remains of an ancient city and the brightest lighthouse in the Aegean. Peristera, just off Alonnisos east coast, has several sandy beaches and the remains of a castle. Nearby Lehousa is known for its stalactite-filled sea caves. Skantzoura, to the southeast of Alonnisos, is the habitat of the Eleanora s falcon and the rare Audouin s seagull. The eighth island in the group, situated between Peristera and Skantzoura, is known as Duo Adelphi (Two Brothers); each brother is actually a small island, both home to vipers, according to local fishermen who refuse to step foot on either. SKYROS ΣΚΥΡΟΣ pop 2602 Skyros is the largest of the Sporades group, though it can seem like two islands the small bays, rolling farmland and pine forests of the north, and the barren hills and rocky shoreline of the south. A number of expats, particularly English and Dutch, have made Skyros their home. In Byzantine times, rogues and criminals exiled here from the mainland entered into a mutually lucrative collaboration with invading pirates. The exiles became the elite of Skyrian society, decorating their houses with pirate booty looted from merchant ships: hand-carved furniture, plates and copper ornaments from Europe, the Middle East and East Asia. Today, similar items adorn almost every Skyrian house. In Greek mythology, Skyros was the hiding place of young Achilles. See p672 for more information about the Skyros Lenten Carnival and its traditions, which allude to Achilles heroic feats. Skyros was also the last port of call for the English poet Rupert Brooke ( ), who died of septicaemia on a French hospital ship off the coast of Skyros en route to the Battle of Gallipoli. Getting There & Away AIR In summer there are three flights weekly (Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday) between Athens and Skyros ( 38, 25 minutes). Between Thessaloniki and Skyros, there are three flights weekly on Monday, Tuesday and Saturday ( 58, 35 minutes). For tickets, visit Skyros Travel Agency (% ; Agoras St). FERRY A regular ferry service is provided by Achileas, between the port of Kymi (Evia) and Skyros ( 8.30, 1¾ hours). On Friday and Sunday, the ferry (usually) makes two crossings; on the remaining days, just one crossing. You can buy tickets from Achileas ticket office (% ; fax ; Agoras; h9am-1pm & 7-10pm), near the bank on Agoras in Skyros Town. There is also a ferry ticket kiosk at the dock in Linaria, and another at the dock in Kymi (Evia). Skyros Travel Agency also sells tickets for the Kymi Athens bus ( 13.20, 3½ hours), which always meets the ferry on arrival at Paralia Kymis (the port of Kymi). Getting Around BUS & TAXI In high season there are daily buses departing from Skyros Town to Linaria ( 1.20) and to Molos (via Magazia). Buses for both Skyros Town and Molos meet the ferry at Linaria. However, outside of high season there are only one or two buses to Linaria (to coincide with the ferry arrivals) and none to Molos. A taxi from Skyros Town to Linaria is 12; to the airport, it s 18. CAR & MOTORCYCLE Cars, motorbikes and mountain bikes can all be rented from Martina s Rentals (% ; ) near the police station. The reasonable Vayos Motorbikes (% ) is near the bus stop. EVIA & THE SPORADES

342 670 SKYROS Skyros Town Book accommodation online at SKYROS Skyros Town 671 EVIA & THE SPORADES SKYROS Cape Oros Cape Vathy Koulouri Rinia Cape Petritsa To Evia (24km) Alyko Bay Kyra Panagia Cape Souliotis Frokala Atsitsa Agios Fokas Valaxa Cape Finari Cape Aloni Pefkos Bay Katounes Skyros Pefkos Palamari Moni Agiou Dimitriou Aherounes Bay Cape Exo Myti Skyros Town Moni Agiou Georgiou Aherounes Linaria Aspous Kalamitsa Bay SKYROS TOWN Skyros capital is a striking, dazzlingly white town of flat-roofed Cycladic-style houses draped over a high rocky bluff. It s topped by a 13th-century fortress and the monastery of Agios Georgios, and is laced with labyrinthine, smooth cobblestoned streets, which invite wandering. Nyfi Cape Marmaro Girismata Cape Pouria Agios Ermolaos Molos Magazia Mealos Bay Loutro Papa Houma Kalamitsa Tris Boukes Bay Platia Mt Dafni (734m) Katholikou Bay Mt Kohilas (792m) Pentekali Mt Vouva (727m) Sarakino Rupert Brooke's Grave Tris Boukes Renes Bay 0 4 km 0 2 miles A E G E A N S E A Gerania Caves Cape Limnonari Cape Kastelli Orientation The bus stop is at the southern end of town on the main thoroughfare (Agoras) an animated street lined with tavernas, bars and grocery stores and flanked by narrow winding alleyways. To reach the central plateia, you need to walk up the hill; the narrow road soon becomes even narrower, marking the beginning of the town s pedestrian zone. Motorbikes still manage to squeeze through, but cars must park in the nearby car park. About 100m beyond the plateia, the main drag of Agoras forks. The right fork leads up to the fortress and Moni Agiou Georgiou, with its fine frescoes and sweeping views. The left fork zigzags to two small museums adjacent to Rupert Brooke, where a simple bronze statue of a nude Rupert Brooke faces the sea. The frankness of the statue caused an outcry among the local islanders when it was first installed in the 1930s. From Rupert Brooke the cobbled steps descend to Magazia, located 1km away. Information EMERGENCY Police (% ) Take the first right after Skyros Travel Agency, and turn right at the T-junction. There is no tourist police office. INTERNET ACCESS Mano.com (% ; Agoras St; per hr 3; h9am-1.30pm & pm) Video Club Internet (% ; Agoras St; per hr 3; h9am-1.30pm & 6-11pm) MONEY National Bank of Greece (Agoras St) Next to the central square. POST The post office is just west of the square. TRAVEL AGENCIES Skyros Travel Agency (% ; Agoras St; h9am-2pm & pm) It has island maps and can help with room bookings, travel reservations, car and motorbike rentals, diving and excursions around Skyros. Sights & Activities Skyros Town has two museums. The Manos Faltaïts Folk Museum (% ; Rupert Brooke; admission 2; h10am-2pm & 6-9pm) is a one-of-a-kind private museum housing the outstanding collection of a Skyrian ethnologist, Manos Faltaïts, and detailing the mythology and folklore of Skyros. The 19thcentury house is packed with Skyrian costumes, antique furniture and ceramics, vintage books, photographs and a small shop. The Archaeological Museum (% ; Rupert Brooke; admission 2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) features excellent examples of Mycenaean pottery found near Magazia. Interesting too is a traditional Skyrian house interior, transported in its entirety from the benefactor s home. Every year around September, Skyros is host to a half-marathon (% ), which starts in Atsitsa and ends on the plateia in Skyros Town, with drummers welcoming the first runners across the finish line. A minimarathon for the children sets the tone, followed by music and dancing on the square. Courses Reiki courses are offered by longtime island resident and reiki master Janet Smith (% ; Skyros Town; It s on the south edge of Skyros Town, 200m below Hotel Nefeli. Atsitsa has the Skyros Centre ( p673 ), which also runs courses. Tours A day-long boat excursion ( 35) to the Gerania sea caves on the southeast coast or nearby Sarakino Islet includes lunch and a swim. Contact Skyros Travel (% ) for details. Sleeping Accommodation in Skyros Town varies from conventional small hotels and domatia to individual rooms in traditional Skyrian houses. If you arrive by bus, you ll usually be met with offers on nearby domatia; prices should range from 25 to 40 for a single/double. Prices quoted here are for the summer season, mid- July to August. BUDGET & MIDRANGE Hotel Elena (%/fax ; s/d/tr 30/45/60; pai) The clean and renovated Elena is a good budget choice with comfortable beds, balcony and minifridge. It s just 50m past the bus stop, and easy to find after a night on the town. oatherinis Rooms (% , ; d/apt from 45/60; pa) Managed by Dimitris Atherinis and English transplant Janet Smith, the self-catering apartments and double rooms feature hand-tiled baths and overlook a shaded garden. Breakfast ( 5) includes fresh juice and homemade scones. Atherinis is located 300m below the bus stop, towards the sea. Pension Nikolas (% ; fax ; s/d/tr 50/60/70; pa) Set back on a small quiet road, this comfortable and friendly pension is only a five-minute walk to busy Agoras. The upper rooms have air-conditioning and balconies; the lower rooms have fans and open onto a shady garden. TOP END Hotel Nefeli & Dimitrios Studios (% ; d/studios/ste incl breakfast 125/190/300; pais) This well-managed hotel on the edge of town has a minimalist-meets-skyrian feel to it, with vintage photographs, handsome furnishings and large baths. The adjacent family-size studios are part of a remodelled EVIA & THE SPORADES

343 672 SKYROS Magazia & Molos Book accommodation online at SKYROS Around Skyros 673 EVIA & THE SPORADES SKYROS CARNIVAL In this wild pre-lenten festival, which takes place on the last four weekends before Kathara Deftera (Clean Monday the first Monday in Lent, 40 days before Easter), young men don goat masks, hairy jackets and dozens of copper goat bells. They then proceed to clank and dance around town, each with a partner (another man), dressed up as a Skyrian bride but also wearing a goat mask. During these revelries there is singing and dancing, performances of plays, recitations of satirical poems and much drinking and feasting. Women and children join in, wearing fancy dress as well. These strange goings-on are overtly pagan, with elements of Dionysian festivals, including goat worship. In ancient times, as today, Skyros was renowned for its goats meat and milk. The transvestism evident in the carnival seems to derive from the cult of Achilles associated with Skyros in Greek mythology. According to legend, the island was the childhood hiding place for the boy Achilles, whose mother, Thetis, feared a prophecy requiring her son s skills in the Trojan War. The boy was given to the care of King Lykomides of Skyros, who raised him disguised as one of his own daughters. Young Achilles was outwitted, however, by Odysseus, who arrived with jewels and finery for the girls, along with a sword and shield. When the maiden Achilles alone showed interest in the weapons, Odysseus discovered his secret, then persuaded him to go to Troy where he distinguished himself in battle. This annual festival is the subject of Joy Koulentianou s book The Goat Dance of Skyros. Skyrian house. Both properties share a beautiful saltwater swimming pool and bar. Eating Skyros welcomes a steady number of visiting Athenians, with the pleasant result that island cooks do not cater to touristy tongues. You can find a number of authentic Skyrian dishes in the smallest taverna, including several with goats milk or meat. Maryetis Restaurant (% ; Agoras St; mains 5-9) The local favourite for grilled fish and octopus stifadho, along with hearty soups and mezedhes like black-eyed beans and fava dip. oo Pappous kai Ego (% ; Agoras St; mains 6-9) The name of this small taverna means my grandfather and me, and it s easy to see how one generation followed another. Mezedhes are excellent, especially fava beans with wild aniseed and onions, along with Skyrian dolmadhes made with a touch of goats milk and a very good washing-it-down house wine. Liakos Café (% ; mains 5-10) On summer evenings, head to the rooftop terrace at Liakos, where the fusion menu includes seafood risotto, cold octopus salad and fava beans with sun-dried tomatoes. Taverna Lambros (% ; mains ) Family-run Lambros is just 3km south of Skyros Town in Aspous. Generous-sized dishes include lamb and pork grills, fresh fish gumbo and Skyrian cheese bread. Drinking Nightlife in Skyros Town centres mostly around the bars on Agoras; the further north you go away from the plateia, the more mellow the sounds. Kalypso (% ; Agoras St) Classy Kalypso plays lots of jazz and blues, and ownerbartender Hristos makes a killer margarita, along with homemade sangria. A side room sports an internet connection. Rodon (% ; Agoras St) This smart and comfortable late-night hang-out is a mellow spot to end the evening. Bonus points for big drinks and fresh juices. Nostos Cafe & Bar (% ; Agoras St) Above the National Bank, this swank bar overlooking the plateia serves a range of mixed drinks, coffees and appetisers. Entertainment Skyropoula Disco (% ) Don t bother showing up before midnight at this ring road hang-out, where the DJs play a danceable mix of European and Greek pop sounds till dawn. MAGAZIA & MOLOS ΜΑΓΑΖΙΑ & ΜΩΛΟΣ The resort of Magazia, a compact and attractive place of winding alleys, is at the southern end of a splendid, long sandy beach, situated a short distance north of Skyros Town. Skinnydippers can leave it all behind at Papa Houma near the southern end of Magazia. Quieter and more arid Molos is at the northern end of the beach. Until recently, there was little more than a windmill and the adjacent rock-hewn Church of Agios Ermolaos to mark it. Today, a number of tavernas and small domatia have opened up. Sleeping Georgia Tsakamis Rooms (% ; gtsakamis@yahoo.gr; Magazia; d/tr 45/50; a) You can t get much closer to the sand and sea than at these geranium-adorned domatia 20m from the beach, opposite a handy car park. Deidamia Hotel (% ; d/f incl breakfast from 45/70; pai) The spacious and tidy Deidamia is on the road entering Magazia, opposite a small market. Look for the bougainvillea garden and rooftop solar panels. operigiali Studios (% ; d/tr/f incl breakfast from 68/80/90; a) Perigiali feels secluded despite being only 30m from the beach. The Skyrian-style rooms overlook a rambling garden anchored by a large fig tree, and English-speaking Ermelia is full of ideas for travellers. Also recommended: Studio Ireni (% , ; Molos; d/tr from 30/40; pa) Welcoming bargain domatia. Domatia & Studios Eleanna (% , ; Molos; s/d/tr 50/70/80; pa) Handsome Skyrian furnishings, balcony, kitchenette and large bath. Eating & Drinking Juicy Bar (% ; snacks 2-5; Magazia; h10am-1am) Escape the midday sun or chill out under the stars at busy Juicy s, with breakfasts throughout the day. Taverna Stefanos (% ; mains ) Perch yourself on the terrace of this traditional eatery, overlooking the southern end of Magazia, and choose from a range of ready-to-eat oven dishes, big portions of souvlakia and fresh fish by the kilo. Oi Istories Tou Barba (My Uncle s Stories; % ; Molos; mains 4-10) Look for the light blue railing above the beach in Molos to find this excellent café and tsipouradhiko with wellprepared prawn and octopus mezedhes. Shopping Argo (% ; Agoras St) Argo specialises in high-quality copies of ceramics from the Faltaïts Museum. Andreou Woodcarving (% ; Agoras St) Get a close look at the intricate designs that distinguish traditional Skyrian furniture at this handsome shop on the main drag. Several pottery workshops spin their wheels in Magazia without bothering to put a sign out front, but they are happy to see visitors, and some of their exceptional work is for sale. English-speaking Amanda and Stathis Katsarelias (% ) run a studio on the small lane between the main road and the beach; look for the yellow Kodak sign next door. The studios of Efrossini Varsamou-Nikolaou (% ) are in the Deidamia Hotel. AROUND SKYROS Linaria Λιναριά Linaria, the port of Skyros, is tucked into a small bay filled with bobbing fishing boats and lined with tavernas and ouzeries. Things perk up briefly whenever the Achileas ferry comes in, announcing its surreal arrival with the booming sound of Richard Strauss Also Sprach Zarathustra blasting from the ship s huge speakers. The bus to Skyros Town lacks a similar sound system, but coincides perfectly with the ferry s arrival and departure. SLEEPING & EATING King Lykomides Rooms (% , ; soula@skyrosnet.gr; r incl breakfast 45-60; pai) You can practically stumble off the ferry and into this efficient domatia, managed by the hospitable Soula Pappas. It has wellmaintained rooms, each with balcony. Ouzeri Maestros (% ; drinks & snacks 2-4) Tasty ouzo-compatible mezedhes like grilled octopus and calamari are served up by Tasos, the welcoming owner of this port stand-by under the big plane tree. Kavos Bar (% ; drinks & snacks 2-5) This swank open-air bar, perched on the hill overlooking the port, pulls in Skyrians from across the island for drinks at sunset. Taverna Filippeos (% ; mains 4-9) This busy and friendly fish taverna near the ferry dock serves traditional ready-to-eat oven dishes such as briam (oven-baked vegetable casserole) and pastitsio. Atsitsa Ατσίτσα The sleepy and picturesque port village of Atsitsa on the island s west coast occupies a woodsy setting, shaded by pines that approach EVIA & THE SPORADES

344 Lonely Planet Publications 674 SKYROS Around Skyros WIND FARM DEBATE Gauging which way the wind is blowing is becoming trickier on Skyros, where a controversy is heating up between vocal residents and the Greek Orthodox Church, which quietly began negotiations in 2005 with a mainland contractor and a government regulatory authority. At stake: whether to establish a massive wind farm (at an estimated cost of 500 million) on the southern half of the island to meet the EU s request that Greece utilise renewable energy to provide 20% of its needs by If the plan is approved, Skyros would be home to the largest wind farm in Europe, and the island s delicate breeding grounds for the rare Skyrian pony and the Eleonora s falcon would be at the mercy of 150m-high wind turbines. No-one on Skyros is opposed to sustainable solutions to Greece s energy needs. But as one resident said, It s a matter of scale. The largest landowner in southern Skyros happens to be the Church and, with so much money at stake, there s not much trust in the wind these days. the shore. Atsitsa is also home to the holistic and secluded Skyros Centre (% ; Atsitsa; a New Age centre that runs residential courses on a range of subjects, from yoga and massage to sailing and windsurfing. Contact the centre for detailed information. Taverna Antonis (% ; mains 4-8) is about 20m from the small pier where the family s fishing boat ties up. The menu has several excellent fish dishes. es es on the northwest coast are subject to strong winter currents and summer meltemi winds. Atsitsa has a small pebble beach shaded by pines, good for freelance camping, but too rocky for swimming. Just to the north (1.5km) is the superior swimming beach of Kyra Panagia, named for the monastery on the hill above. Just 1.5km to the south, the tiny and protected north-facing bay at Cape Petritsa is also good for swimming. At Pefkos Bay, 10km southeast of Atsitsa, there is a beautiful horseshoe-shaped beach with two tavernas and domatia at the southern end. Nearby, the beach at Aherounes has a gentle sandy bottom, and is very nice for children. There are two tavernas and domatia opposite the road. To the north and near the airport, Palamari is a graceful stretch of sandy beach that does not get crowded. Palamari is also the site of a well-marked archaeological excavation of a walled Bronze Age town dating from 2500 BC. Rupert Brooke s Grave Rupert Brooke s well-tended marble grave is in a quiet olive grove just inland from Tris Boukes Bay in the south of the island, and marked with a wooden sign in Greek on the roadside. The gravestone is inscribed with some of Brooke s verses, beginning with the following apt epitaph: If I should die think only this of me: That there s some corner of a foreign field That is forever England. From coastal Kalamitsa, just east of Linaria, a road passes the village of Nyfi, and brings you to Brooke s simple tomb. No buses come here, and travel is restricted beyond this southernmost corner of the island, which is dominated by the Greek Naval station on Tris Boukes Bay. EVIA & THE SPORADES Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content.

345 I o n i a n I s l a n d s Τα Ιόνια Νησιά Lonely Planet Publications 675 IONIAN ISLANDS It s hard not to fall for the Ionian Islands, an archipelago that sweeps down the west coast of mainland Greece and includes Corfu, Paxi, Lefkada, Ithaki, Kefallonia and Zakynthos. Discovering these islands is a tantalising odyssey. Their natural beauty embraces the visitor the vast olive groves, intriguing mountainscapes and iridescent waters of the Ionian Sea offer something for adventure seekers, culture vultures and beach bums alike. Each island boasts a distinct tradition, cuisine and architecture the remaining influences of former invading forces such as the Venetians, French and British. These influences are obvious in Corfu Town, where you can watch a cricket match on the Spianada, drink under Parisian-style arcades and wander through the town s Venetian-style alleyways. Elsewhere in the Ionians in the traditional fishing or mountain villages you can stroll through central plazas shaded by bougainvilleas and plane trees, or relax under a taverna s vine-covered canopy with the soporific scent of jasmine. Less-tasteful encounters exist, in the form of invasive, package-tourist beach developments, but these can be avoided. It s easy to get off the beaten track: find your own isolated swimming coves in a boat, wander through olive groves, or stumble across an authentic kafeneio (coffee house). Cultural adventurers can explore fortresses, Byzantine churches and Homeric sites. Adventure addicts can trek, cycle, windsurf and scuba dive, and anyone can try bird-watching or golf. The culinary experience rounds off an Ionian journey: indulge in fresh, generous helpings of local dishes, served with a huge dollop of local filoxenia (hospitality). HIGHLIGHTS Architecture Wandering the narrow streets of Corfu s old town ( p681 ), pausing for a frappé under one of many Venetian buildings Getting Away From It All Walking through the ancient olive groves of Paxi ( p691 ) and swimming in the crystal waters of nearby Antipaxi ( p694 ) Scenic Splendour Cruising along the lofty spine of Homeric Ithaki ( p705 ) Beauty Spot Exploring the pretty village of Assos ( p704 ) and swimming in the iridescent blue waters of nearby Myrtos ( p704 ) on Kefallonia Food Frenzy Following your taste buds around Zakynthos to discover local treats ( p711 ) Corfu Town Paxi Antipaxi Assos Ithaki Myrtos Zakynthos POPULATION: 221,890 AREA : 2432 SQ KM

346 676 IONIAN ISLANDS History IONIAN ISLANDS Getting There & Away 677 IONIAN ISLANDS IONIAN ISLANDS 0 40 km 0 20 miles To Italy (80km) Othoni Erikousa Diapondia Islands Mathraki Agios Stefanos Paleokastritsa Pelekas I O N I A N S E A Kefallonia (p700) Lixouri Zakynthos (p709) Sidhari Corfu (p679) Corfu Town Lefkimmi South Kerkyra Straits Lakka Paxi (p692) Gaïos Antipaxi (p692) Frikes Myrtos Agia Aetos Piso Evfymia Argostoli Fiskardo Pesada Agios Nikolaos Bay of Laganas Lefkada (p695) Sami Poros Zakynthos Strait Saranda Sagiada Vasiliki Zakynthos Town A L B A N I A Parga Lefkada Town Vathy Nydri To Ioannina (75km) E92 Igoumenitsa Ithaki (p700) G R E E C E EPIROS To Athens (350km) E55 Preveza Kyllini STEREA ELLADA Meganisi Mytikas Kalamos Kastos To Astakos (5km) To Patra (70km) To Patra (70km) PELOPONNESE E55 HISTORY The origin of the name Ionian is obscure, but it s thought to derive from the goddess Io. As yet another of Zeus paramours, Io fled the wrath of a jealous Hera (in the shape of a heifer), and happened to pass through the waters now known as the Ionian Sea. If we are to believe Homer, the islands were important during Mycenaean times; however, no magnificent palaces or even modest villages from that period have been revealed, though Mycenaean tombs have been unearthed. Ancient history lies buried beneath tonnes of earthquake rubble seismic activity has been constant on all Ionian islands. By the 8th century BC, the Ionian Islands were in the clutches of the mighty city-state of Corinth, which regarded them as stepping stones on the route to Sicily and Italy. A century later, Corfu staged a successful revolt against Corinth, which was allied to Sparta, and became an ally of Sparta s archenemy, Athens. This alliance provoked Sparta into challenging Athens, thus precipitating the Peloponnesian Wars ( BC). The wars left Corfu depleted, as they did all participants, and Corfu became little more than a staging post for whoever happened to be holding sway in Greece. By the end of the 3rd century BC, Corfu, along with the other Ionian Islands, fell under Roman rule. Following the decline of the Roman Empire, the islands saw the usual waves of invaders suffered by Greece. After the fall of Constantinople, the islands became Venetian. Corfu was never part of the Ottoman Empire. Paxi, Kefallonia, Zakynthos and Ithaki were variously occupied by the Turks, but the Venetians held them longest. The exception was Lefkada, which was Turkish for 200 years. IONIAN KYTHIRA? The island of Kythira (and its satellite, Antikythira) dangles off the southern tip of the Peloponnese between the Ionian and Aegean Seas. Historically, Kythira is considered part of the Ionian Islands, and today is administered from Piraeus. Due to its location and suitable ferry connections, visitors are most likely to visit Kythira from the Peloponnese. Thus its placement in the Peloponnese chapter ( p224 ). Venice fell to Napoleon in Two years later, under the Treaty of Campo Formio, the Ionian Islands were allotted to France. In 1799 Russian forces wrested the islands from Napoleon, but by 1807 they were his again. The all-powerful British couldn t resist meddling, and in 1815, after Napoleon s downfall, the islands became a British protectorate under the jurisdiction of a series of Lord High Commissioners. British rule was oppressive but, on a positive note, the British constructed roads, bridges, schools and hospitals, established trade links, and developed agriculture and industry. However, the nationalistic fervour throughout the rest of Greece soon reached the Ionian Islands, and a call for unity was realised in 1864 when Britain relinquished the islands to Greece. In WWII the Italians invaded Corfu as part of Mussolini s plan to resurrect the mighty Roman Empire. Italy surrendered to the Allies in September 1943 and, in revenge, the Germans massacred thousands of Italians who had occupied the island. The Nazis also sent some 5000 Corfiot Jews to Auschwitz. The islands saw a great deal of emigration after WWII, and again following the earthquakes of 1948 and 1953 that devastated the region. But while Greeks left the islands, the foreign invasion has never really stopped, and these days takes the form of package tourism from northern Europe. GETTING THERE & AWAY Air Corfu, Kefallonia and Zakynthos have airports; Lefkada has no airport, but Aktion airport, near Preveza on the mainland, is about 20km away. These four airports have frequent flights to/from Athens. Olympic Airlines ( has introduced a useful service linking the Ionians: three times a week there are return flights from Corfu to Zakynthos, stopping en route at Kefallonia. From May to September, many charter flights come from northern Europe and the UK to Corfu, Kefallonia, Zakynthos and Preveza. AirSea Lines, a seaplane service, runs flights between changing destinations. At the time of research, these included Corfu, Paxi and Lefkada. YOUR TRIP.COM There are loads of websites devoted to the Ionians here are some of the best we ve found: Corfu Kefallonia Lefkada Ionian Islands Ithaki Paxi Zakynthos Bus KTEL ( long-distance buses connect each major island with Athens and Thessaloniki, and usually also with Patra or Kyllini in the Peloponnese. Buses to Corfu, Lefkada, Kefallonia, Ithaki and Zakynthos depart from Athens Terminal A bus station. Ferry DOMESTIC The Peloponnese has two departure ports for the Ionian Islands: Patra for ferries to Corfu, Kefallonia and Ithaki; and Kyllini for ferries to Kefallonia and Zakynthos. Epiros has one port, Igoumenitsa, for Corfu (island) and Paxi; and Sterea Ellada has one, Astakos, for Ithaki and Kefallonia (although this service is limited to high season). A useful website is The following table gives an overall view of the scheduled domestic ferries to the Ionians from mainland ports in high season. Note: prices change regularly. It is not possible to island hop directly between the northern and southern islands. Corfu and Paxi are connected by ferry and hydrofoil, but unfortunately there are no services from either Corfu or Paxi to Lefkada. Within the southern Ionians, Lefkada, Kefallonia and Ithaki are well connected by ferry, and there s a twice-daily service between southern Kefallonia and northern Zakynthos (an alternative is to sail from Argostoli to Kyllini in the Peloponnese, and from there to Zakynthos Town). Further details can be found under each island entry. IONIAN ISLANDS

347 678 CORFU Getting There & Away CORFU Getting There & Away 679 IONIAN ISLANDS DOMESTIC FERRY CONNECTIONS TO THE IONIAN ISLANDS Origin Destination Duration Fare Frequency Astakos Sami (Kefallonia) 3hr 10 daily Piso Aetos (Ithaki) 2½hr 8 daily Igoumenitsa Corfu Town 1¼hr daily Lefkimmi (Corfu) 1hr daily Igoumenitsa Gaïos (Paxi) 1½hr 7.60 daily Kyllini Zakynthos Town 1hr daily Argostoli (Kefallonia) 2½hr daily Poros (Kefallonia) 1½hr daily Patra Corfu Town 6-7½hr 33 1 daily Sami (Kefallonia) 2½hr daily Vathy/Piso Aetos (Ithaki) 4hr daily INTERNATIONAL Corfu has regular connections with three ports in Italy (Brindisi, Bari and Venice), operated by a handful of ferry companies sailing between Italy and Igoumenitsa and/or Patra. (Travellers can also sail between Ancona and Igoumenitsa, then transfer to a local ferry.) Crossings are most frequent in July and August, but there are year-round services at least weekly between Corfu and Brindisi, Bari and Venice. From Corfu it s also possible to cross to Albania, or to visit on a day trip. Recommendations: Agoudimos Lines ( From Brindisi to Corfu and Igoumenitsa, and Bari to Kefallonia, Igoumenitsa and Patra. ANEK Lines ( From Venice to Corfu. Blue Star Ferries ( From Bari to Corfu, Igoumenitsa and Patra. Hellenic Mediterranean Lines ( From Brindisi to Corfu, Igoumenitsa, Kefallonia and Patra. Minoan Lines ( From Venice to Igoumenitsa, Corfu and Patra. SNAV ( High-season, high-speed catamaran services between Brindisi, Corfu and Paxi. Superfast Ferries ( From Bari to Corfu, Igoumenitsa and Patra. Ventouris ( From Bari to Corfu and Igoumenitsa. Note: the only ferry companies that accept Eurail and Inter-rail passes are Bluestar, Superfast and Agoudimos. All international ferry companies also have special offers and concessions for seniors, families and lastminute tickets. CORFU ΚΕΡΚΥΡΑ pop 114,000 Corfu or Kerkyra (ker-kih-rah) in Greek is the second-largest and the greenest Ionian island. It is also the best known. It was Homer s beautiful and rich land, and Odysseus last stop on his journey home to Ithaki. Shakespeare reputedly used it as a background for The Tempest. In the 20th century, writers the Durrell brothers among others extolled its virtues. With the nation s highest rainfall, scores of vegetables and herbs thrive here, especially in spring. With its beguiling landscape of wildflowers, and cypress trees rising out of shimmering olive groves, Corfu hangs in there as one of Greece s most beautiful islands. Sadly, areas are suffering from blatant and unheeded over-development. Getting There & Away AIR Olympic Airlines (% ; is based at the airport. The national airline has two flights to/from Athens daily (from 30 if booked extra early), and four flights a week to/from Thessaloniki ( 70). You can also fly three times weekly to Preveza ( 35), Kefallonia ( 35) and Zakynthos ( 47). Prices exclude changeable taxes. Aegean Airlines (% ; has two to three flights a day between Athens and Corfu (from 29). Its office is located at the airport and, if closed, calls will be diverted to its office in Athens. AirSea Lines (Map p682 ; % , ; Ethnikis Antistasis, Corfu Town) is a seaplane service that runs in high season to a schedule that seems to change annually. Check the website for the current permutations and combinations. At the time of research there were services between Corfu and Paxi ( 40 to 50) and Corfu and Lefkada ( 55 to 70). In Corfu, purchase tickets from the AirSea Lines office on Ethnikis Antistasis (near the new port). A minibus will take you from here to the departure point at Marina Gouvia, 8km away. Baggage weight allowances apply. BUS KTEL (% ) runs buses three times daily (and another three per week via Lefkimmi in the island s south) between Corfu Town and Athens ( 44.20, 8½ hours). There s also CORFU To Ereikousa (10km) To Diapondia Islands (15km); Cape Ag Brindisi (125km); Bari (200km); To Ekaterinis Venice (625km) Diapondia Islands Almyros Avlaki (15km) Cape Pelekito Bay Cape Drastis Sidhari Varvano Astrakeri Roda Aharavi Lagos Peroulades Kassiopi Karoussades Agios Stefanos Old Perithia Cape Agios Moni Mt Kefali Stefanos Pantokrator Pantokrator Kouloura Mesaria (906m) Strinylas Kalami Arillas Agios Agios Athanasios Spartylas Nisaki Agni Georgios Afionas Troumbeta Ano Agros Korakiana Barbati Pagi Skripero Pyrgi Makrades Analipsi Ipsos Doukades Krini Lakones Kato Korakiana Angelokastro Paleokastritsa Dasia Moni Theotokou Dafnila Liapades Liapades Gouvia Bay Bay Corfu Gouvia Pithia Kondokali I O N I A N S E A Giannades Ermones See Enlargement Afra Pelekas Sinarades Kanali Kombitsi a daily service to/from Thessaloniki ( 42, eight hours); for both destinations budget another 6.50 for the ferry between Corfu and the mainland. Long-distance tickets should be purchased in advance from Corfu Town s long-distance bus station ( p680 ) on I Theotoki, between San Rocco and the new port. FERRY Domestic Hourly ferries travel daily between Corfu and Igoumenitsa (per person/car 6.50/26, 1¼ to two hours). Car ferries go to Paxi (per person/car 7.60/55.60, three hours) two or three times weekly, and daily in high season (but the hydrofoil is a more frequent option). In high Potamas Agioi Deka Corfu Town (Kerkyra) North Kerkyra Straits EPIROS Strongyli Paramonas Agios Moraïtika Matheos Giannades Prasouda To Igoumenitsa Corfu Golf Agios Evropouli Ropa Messonghi Ioannis Potamas Cape (5km) Club Valley Sidero Gardiki Castle Cape Afra & Rockshelter of Boukari Lefkimmi Ermones Birdwatching Corfu Centre of Ropa Valley Kanali Grava Gardikiou Petriti Town Lake Lefkimmi South Vatos Kaiser's (Kerkyra) Korission Bay Kerkyra Throne Kombitsi Halikounas Straits Myrtiotissa Kanoni Pelekas Issos Marathias Lefkimmi Glyfada Agios Peninsula Agios Prokopios Perama Giorgios Pelekas Vitalades Kouramades Kinopiastes Yialiskari Sinarades Gastouri Kritika Kastellani Ahillion Kavos Paleohori Agioi Kamara Deka Spartera To Paxi (25km); 0 5 km Benitses Sami (125km); 0 3 miles Agios Gordios Cape Asprokavos Patra (175km) Perama Ahillion 0 10 km 0 6 miles To Saranda (Albania) (10km); Himara (Albania) (45km) A L B A N I A Sagiada G R E E C E IONIAN ISLANDS

348 680 CORFU Getting Around CORFU Corfu Town 681 IONIAN ISLANDS season you can travel to/from Patra on one of the international ferries that call at Corfu ( 33, six to 7½ hours) en route to/from Italy. There are also six ferries daily between Lefkimmi in the island s south and Igoumenitsa ( 4.50, one hour). International Corfu is on the Patra Igoumenitsa ferry route to Italy (Brindisi, Bari and Venice), although ferries to/from Ancona don t stop at Corfu (passengers need to disembark at Igoumenitsa and cross to Corfu on a local ferry). Ferries go to Brindisi ( 56, eight hours, two daily), and in summer usually once daily to Bari ( 64, 10 to 12 hours) and Venice ( 74, 24 to 26 hours). Fares listed here are for deck (not airline seats or cabin berths), one-way passage in high season; there are sizable reductions in the low and mid-seasons, and for return tickets. An additional tax may also apply. See Igoumenitsa (p345 ) and Patra ( p166 ) for more details. SNAV ( operates daily high-speed catamaran services between Corfu, Paxi and Brindisi from July to early September (four hours, 85 to 150). Shipping agencies selling tickets are found in Corfu Town near the new port, along Xenofondos Stratigou and Ethnikis Antistasis. Mancan Travel & Shipping ( p684 ; % ; Eleftheriou Venizelou 38) and Agoudimos Lines/GLD Travel (Map p682 ; % ; tickets@gld.gr; Ethnikis Antistasis 1) have helpful staff who will point you in the direction of the relevant international shipping lines; the assortment of companies, routes and prices can be confusing. For more information regarding Italian ferries to Corfu, see p678. HYDROFOIL Domestic Petrakis Lines (see Tours, p683 ) operates passenger-only hydrofoils between Corfu and Paxi from May until mid-october. One to two services daily run between Corfu and Paxi ( 15, one hour). Be sure to book one day prior; places fill quickly. International Hydrofoil services connecting Corfu and Albania are operated by Petrakis Lines (see Tours, p683 ). Daily sailings go to/from the town of Saranda (one way 15, 25 minutes). Travellers also pay 10 to obtain a temporary visa for Albania. Getting Around TO/FROM THE AIRPORT There is no bus service operating between Corfu Town and the airport. Buses 6 and 10 from San Rocco in Corfu Town stop on the main road 800m from the airport (en route to Benitses and Ahillion). A taxi between the airport and Corfu Town costs around 10. BUS Long-distance KTEL buses (known as green buses) travel from Corfu Town s long-distance bus station (Map p682 ; % /30627; I Theotoki). Fares cost 1.70 to Printed timetables are available at the ticket kiosk. Sunday and holiday services are reduced considerably, or don t run at all. Long-distance (Green) Buses from Corfu Town Destination Duration Frequency Agios Gordios 45min 7 daily Agios Stefanos 1½hr 5 daily Aharavi (via Roda) 1¼hr 6 daily Arillas (via Afionas) 1¼hr 2 daily Barbati 45min 4 daily Ermones 30min 4 daily Glyfada 30min 7 daily Kassiopi 45min 6 daily Kavos 1½hr 10 daily Messonghi 45min 5 daily Paleokastritsa 45min 6 daily Pyrgi 30min 7 daily Sidhari 1¼hr 8 daily Spartera 45min 2 daily Local buses (blue buses) depart from the local bus station (Map p684 ; % ; San Rocco) in Corfu Old Town. Local (Blue) Buses in Corfu Town Destination Via Bus Frequency Agios Ioannis Afra 8 13 daily Ahillion 10 7 daily Benitses 6 12 daily Evropouli Potamas 4 11 daily Kanoni 2 half-hourly Kombitsi Kanali 14 4 daily Kondokali & Dasia Gouvia 7 half-hourly Kouramades Kinopiastes 5 14 daily Pelekas 11 7 daily Tickets are either 0.75 or 1.10 depending on the length of journey, and can be purchased from the booth on San Rocco (although tickets for Ahillion, Benitses and Kouramades are bought on the bus). All trips are under 30 minutes. CAR & MOTORCYCLE Car- and motorbike-rental outlets are plentiful in Corfu Town and most of the resort towns on the island. Prices start at around 45 per day (less for longer-term rentals). Most international car-rental companies are represented in Corfu Town and at the airport. Most local companies have offices along the northern waterfront. Recommended agencies: Budget (Map p682 ; % ; Ioannou Theotoki 132) Easy Rider (Map p682 ; % ) Opposite the new port; rents out scooters and motorbikes. Ocean (Map p684 ; % ; Eleftheriou Venizelou 22) Sixt (Map p684 ; % ; Eleftheriou Venizelou 12) Sunrise (Map p682 ; % /44325; Ethnikis Antistasis 6) A reliable choice along the waterfront near the new port. CORFU TOWN pop 28,200 Nicknamed Kastropolis because of its position between two fortresses on a peninsula, Corfu Town can be summed up in three words: sophistication, beauty and charm. The town s architecture, culture and cuisine are a harmonious blend of Italian, French and British, with a contemporary Greek feel. Pink and ochre Venetian mansions dominate the old town, Parisian-style arcades line a majestic promenade together known as the Liston, and an English-style cricket ground-cum-village green) graces the Spianada. The town s cosmopolitan old and new sections merge seamlessly. Linger over a frappé (Greek-style iced coffee) and crowd-watch from one of the many restaurants or bars found in historic plazas and near Byzantine churches and museums. Orientation The town is separated into northern and southern sections. The old town is in the northern section between the Spianada and the Neo Frourio (New Fortress). To the east, the Palaio Frourio (Old Fortress) projects out to sea, cut off from the town by a moat. The southern section is the new town where you ll find most services and shops. The old port is north of the old town, and the new port is to the west, with the hulking New Fortress between them. The long-distance bus station is on I Theotoki (formerly known as Avramiou) between San Rocco and the new port. The local bus station is on San Rocco. Information BOOKSHOPS Tourmoussoglou (% ; Nikiforou Theotoki 47) This excellent bookshop has a wide range of guidebooks and paperbacks in English. EMERGENCY Tourist police (Map p684 ; % ; 3rd fl, Samartzi 4) Off San Rocco. INTERNET ACCESS The going rate for internet access is around 3 per hour. Edenet (Map p684 ; San Rocco) In the basement of Café Eden. Netoikos (Map p684 ; Kaloheretou14) Good connection, near the Church of Agios Spyridon. Also has a bar on site. MEDICAL SERVICES Corfu General Hospital (Map p682 ; % ; Loulias Andreadi) LAUNDRY Laundry Self Service (Map p682 ; % ; Morpiki; per load 11; h8.30am-2pm Mon-Sat, plus 6-8pm Wed-Fri) Around the corner from Petrakis Lines. MONEY There are banks and ATMs around San Rocco, on Georgiou Theotoki and by both ports. Alpha Bank (Map p684 ; Kapodistriou) Found behind the Liston. National Bank of Greece (Map p684 ; Voulgareos) POST Post office (Map p682 ; Leoforos Alexandras) TELEPHONE Public telephones can be found on most major streets and squares. Prepaid telephone cards (from 6) are available from kiosks. TOURIST INFORMATION There is still no official tourist office in Corfu Town, despite past attempts to open one. IONIAN ISLANDS

349 682 CORFU Corfu Town (Kerkyra) CORFU Corfu Town 683 IONIAN ISLANDS m miles CORFU TOWN (KERKYRA) See Corfu Old Town Map (p684) Areniou Old Port Donzeiot Eleftheriou Venizelou To Italian Ferries (400m); Bars & Clubs (2km); Marina Gouvia (8km); Dasia (13km); Pyrgi (17km); Paleokastritsa (25km) Kremasti Xenofondos Stratigou New Port Kapodistriou Prosalendou Neo Frourio (New Fortress) 15 Ethnikls Antistasis 7 Artis Solomou Cape Sidero Agoniston Polytehniou Old Town Cricket Ground Lohagou Spyrou Vaikou 9 X Stratigou Morpiki Eleftherias Nikiforou Theotoki 16 Velissariou I Theotoki (Avramiou) Voulgareos Paleologlou Palaio Frourio (Old Fortress) Dimarchiou Evag Napoleo ntos 10 5 The Spianada Kapodistriou To Paleokastritsa (26km); Kassiopi (37km) G Theotoki N Zambeli Polyhroni Kostanda 1 Guilford San Rocco Ioulias Andreadi S Desilla Samara EATING Supermarket... B2 Bay of Garitsa L Foka 8 N Mamtzarou Akadimias Mitropoliti Methodiou Donatou Dimoulitsa DRINKING Café Gioia... 9 A2 Old Fortress Café F2 3 P Vraïla Lakovou Polyla Zafiropoulou Militiadou Margariti TRANSPORT INFORMATION Corfu General Hospital... B3 Laundry Self Service... A2 Post Office... C3 New Town Travel... A2 Agoudimos Lines/GLD G Kalosgourou AirSea Lines... A2 Budget... A2 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Archaeological Museum... D4 Palaio Frourio... F2 Petrakis Lines... A2 British Cemetery Dimokratias 4 Leof Alexandras Gregoriou Marasli Lefkimmis Easy Rider... A2 Ferries to Igoumenitsa & Paxi A1 Long-Distance Bus Station.. 16 B2 Sunrise A SLEEPING Hotel Atlantis... A2 7 To Kanoni Peninsula (3.5km); Mon Repos Estate (3.5km) To Airport (1km); Hotel Bretagne (1km); Tavern Tripa (7km); Benitses (13km) During high season, a tourist kiosk (Map p684 ) may operate in San Rocco itself. At the very least you ll get a map of the town produced mainly for day trippers from cruise ships and information about what s on. Englishspeaking staff at All Ways Travel (Map p684 ; % ; San Rocco) happily receive disoriented tourists. Many hotels stock free Corfu maps. Definitely buy a copy of the Corfiot ( 2), an English-language newspaper with listings, available from kiosks. Sights & Activities The Archaeological Museum (Map p682 ; % ; P Vraïla 5; adult/concession 3/2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) displays a diverse collection of items from the island s archaeological heritage. The massive Gorgon Medusa sculpture, one of the best-preserved pieces of Archaic sculpture found in Greece, was part of the west pediment of the 6th-century BC Temple of Artemis at Corcyra (the ancient capital), a Doric temple that stood on the nearby Kanoni Peninsula. The fascinating coin collection reveals the circulation of foreign coins (and thus trade) on the island since ancient times. Just north of the cricket ground is the Museum of Asian Art (Map p684 ; % ; adult/concession 3/2; h8.30am-7pm Tue-Sun May-Oct, 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun Nov-Apr), containing 10,000 objects donated from private collections. Items include Chinese and Japanese porcelain, bronzes, screens and sculptures. It s housed in the Palace of Sts Michael & George, built between 1818 and 1824 as the British Lord High Commissioner s residence. At the eastern side of the building, up the staircase behind the Art Café ( p685 ) is the Municipal Art Gallery (Map p684 ; admission 2; h9am- 5pm Tue-Sun). This lovely collection features Corfiot painters and 15th-century Byzantine icons. Of particular interest for their Italian influence are the paintings by the father and son Prossalendis, and Byzantine icons by the Cretan Damaskinas. Inside the 15th-century Church of Our Lady of Antivouniotissa is the Antivouniotissa Museum (Byzantine Museum; Map p684 ; % ; admission 2; h8am-7pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 8.30am-2.30pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar). This exquisite aisleless and timber-roofed basilica, located off Arseniou, has an outstanding collection of Byzantine and post-byzantine icons and artefacts dating from the 13th to the 17th centuries. The collection extends into the restored sacristy. Solomos Museum (Map p684 ; %/fax ; admission 1; h9.30am-2pm Jun-Aug, 9.30am-1pm Sep- May) is housed in a charming building and is dedicated to Greece s famous poet Dionysios Solomos, who wrote Greece s national poem (see Museum of Solomos, p711 ) and lived in Corfu for 30 years. The display includes some of his poems and letters, his desk and old book editions. It s worth wandering through the two fortresses, Corfu Town s most dominant landmarks. The hilltop on which the Neo Frourio (New Fortress; Map p684 ; admission 2; h9am- 9pm May-Oct) stands was first fortified in the 12th century. It s considered an engineering marvel. The views alone are worth the visit. The Palaio Frourio (Old Fortress; Map p682 ; % ; adult/concession 4/2; h8.30am-3pm Nov-Mar, 8.30am-7pm May-Oct) was constructed by the Venetians on the remains of a 12th-century Byzantine castle on a natural headland. The moat later became notorious as the site of romantic suicides. Further alterations were made by the British but the buildings are now mainly ruins. In Corfu, locals joke that if you call out Spyros, half the island s males will come running. Indeed, it seems that many lucky fellows are named after the island s saint, St Spyridon. The sacred relic of the town s patron saint lies in an elaborate silver coffin in the 16th-century Church of Agios Spyridon (Map p684 ; Agiou Spyridonos). The church is also important for its distinctive campanile. On the southern outskirts of Corfu on the Kanoni Peninsula, the villa and garden at Mon Repos Estate (off Map p682 ; h8am-7pm May- Oct, 8am-5pm Nov-Apr) are magical oases for an overheated traveller. The residence was commissioned by the second British Commissioner of the Ionians for his Corfiot wife. It was also the birthplace of the UK s current Duke of Edinburgh (Queen Elizabeth II s husband). The restored residence houses the recreational Museum of Palaeopolis (% ; adult/concession 3/2; h8am-7.30pm Tue-Sun May-Oct), with eclectic displays including archaeological finds and a Period Room. The sprawling gardens and grounds boast two Doric temples. Take a picnic and plenty of water there s no nearby shop or kiosk. Tours Petrakis Lines (Map p682 ; % ; Ethnikis Antistasis 4) and Sarris Cruises (% ; IONIAN ISLANDS

350 684 CORFU Corfu Town Book accommodation online at CORFU Corfu Town 685 IONIAN ISLANDS Eleftheriou Venizelou 13) both organise day trips from Corfu Town, including an excursion to ancient ruins (Butrinti) in Albania; a boat trip taking in Paxi (and the Blue Caves) and Antipaxi. Prices for all tours range between 30 and 40 (including transfers, plus 10 for port taxes). Passports are required for trips to Albania. 40 CORFU OLD TOWN INFORMATION All Ways Travel... 1 A5 Alpha Bank... 2 D4 Edenet... 3 A5 National Bank of Greece... 4 C4 Netoikos... 5 C4 Tourist Kiosk (high season)... 6 B5 Tourist Police... 7 B5 Tourmoussoglou... 8 C4 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Antivouniotissa Museum... 9 C3 Church of Agios Spyridon C3 Municipal Art Gallery D3 Museum of Asian Art D3 Neo Frourio A3 Solomos Museum C2 27 Eleftheriou Venizelou Lohagou Spyrou Vaikou 41 I Theotoki Polyhroni Kostanda Donatou Dimoulitsa Neo Frourio (New Fortress) Entrance (Avramiou) Gregoriou Marasli 37 Gerasimou Markora San Rocco 24 New Town Mitropoliti Methodiou K Zavitsianou G Markora Leof Alexandras Solomou Velissariou Ag Sofias 25 G Theotoki Samara Old Port 19 Prosalendou Old Town Paleologlou N Mamtzarou S Desilla Sleeping Few real good-value budget options exist in the old town these are found in the town s newer area. The nearest camping ground is Dionysus Camping Village ( p688 ), 8km away. Book ahead in high season. If you can squeeze extra from your purse, the boutique hotels provide a great stay. SLEEPING Bella Venezia C5 Cavalieri Hotel D5 Hotel Arcadion C4 Hotel Astron C3 Hotel Konstantinoupolis B3 EATING Dimitra Supermarket B5 La Famiglia C3 Mouragio C3 Ninos C4 Produce Market B4 Rouvás B4 Starenio Bakery C4 Stathis A3 Supermarket B5 To Dimarchio C4 To Platy Kantouni C5 Donzelot 18 Rizospaston Voulefton Greek Orthodox Cathedral 21 Nikiforou Theotoki Sotiros Elia Politi m miles Mitropoleos 8 14 Komninon Themistokleous Dimarchiou Nikandrou Psoroula N Zambeli Ag The odoras M Theotoki 30 9 Kremasti Manou Artis Ag Spyridonos 5 Ipirou Sevastianou Ag Panton Mavili Souliou 2 A polodorou Elenis Vouthirotou Epidamnou Kaloheretou Vlasopoulou Aristotelous Idromenon Liston Cricket Ground The Spianada Bay of Garitsa 38 G Aspioti Filarmonikis Arseniou Voulgareos DRINKING Aktaion D5 Arco D4 Art Café D3 En Plo D3 Kafe Koklia D4 Libro d'oro...(see 32) Liston...(see 35) Lounge Café C4 Stablus A4 ENTERTAINMENT Orpheus Cinema C5 TRANSPORT Local Bus Station B5 Mancan Travel & Shipping A3 Ocean A3 Sixt A3 Guilford Dimodokou I Foka Kapodistriou Akadimias Eleftherias Kapodistriou Dimokratias Agoniston Polytehniou 31 We list high-season prices here (July and August, and at Easter), but note that for most hotels, low- and mid-season prices (October to June) are drastically reduced and many hotel owners are willing to negotiate. Many hotels are open year-round. BUDGET Hotel Bretagne (off Map p682 ; % ; bretagne.gr; K Georgaki 27; s/d/tr 50/70/80; a) Don t overlook this because of its close proximity to the airport and its distance from the old town. It has adequate motel-style rooms; those at the back face onto a small grassy garden, which buffets air and street-noise pollution. Hotel Astron (Map p684 ; % ; hotel_ astron@hol.gr; Donzelot 15; s 60-70, d 70-80, tr 80-90) The foyer and corridors have as much personality as a disused hospital, but don t let this (nor the kitsch paintings) deter you. The rooms are surprisingly light and pleasant and management is friendly and helpful. MIDRANGE Hotel Konstantinoupolis (Map p684 ; % ; K Zavitsianou 11; s/d/tr incl breakfast 88/98/117; a) Former groupies of this old fave may be disappointed; it can be hard to get a booking here as groups occasionally block-book accommodation. Lucky guests will get light and breezy rooms, some with balcony and ye olde worlde Corfiot charm at better prices than other renovated hotels. Faithfuls should book ahead. Hotel Atlantis (Map p682 ; % ; Xenofondos Stratigou 48; s/d 86/100; a) This nondescript monolith doesn t ooze personality, but is handily located opposite the new port, so it s useful for ferry access. It has friendly staff and adequate rooms. TOP END The following options are almost identical smartly refurbished boutique hotels, outfitted with tasteful Corfiot furniture (with the exception of Bella Venezia). Prices are for high season (reduced considerably at other times) and include breakfast. Hotel Arcadion (Map p684 ; % ; adionhotel.com; Vlasopoulou 2; s/d/tr 105/130/160; a) A charming hotel incongruously situated above a McDonalds, but right in the Liston s action. Cavalieri Hotel (Map p684 ; % ; Kapodistriou 4; d ; a) Another good choice with tasteful old-world style. Features a fabulous rooftop bar that is also open to nonguests. Bella Venezia (Map p684 ; % ; N Zambeli 4; d 170; nai) This recently renovated place has tasteful and contemporary rooms. Eating Corfu s cuisine has been influenced by the many cultures that have been part of its history, particularly Italian. Meat eaters mustn t go past local specialities like sofrito (veal with garlic, vinegar and parsley), pastitsada (meat in red sauce) or a bourdeto (fish casserole spiked with paprika). Vegetarians can enjoy selections of mezedhes (appetisers) and tasty morsels from bakeries. The gelateria (icecream shop) experience around the island shouldn t be missed, either. CAFÉS A true Corfu experience is to indulge in people-watching on the Liston you ll pay around 3 to 5 for a coffee or fresh juice here. The locals partake in their volta (evening walk) at around eleven. Other cafés are perfect for lingering over a frappé or snack, especially in the heat of the day and to rest weary sightseeing bones. The views, especially from waterside locations, are further sensual feasts. Good watering holes include the pretty Art Café (Map p684 ), in gardens to the east of the Museum of Asian Art; the Old Fortress Café (Map p682 ), inside the Old Fortress complex; En Plo (Map p684 ), at the corner of Arseniou and Kapodistriou (you need to go down a sloping road at St Nikolas Gate); Aktaion (Map p684 ; Agoniston Polytehniou); and Stablus (Map p684 ), in the New Fortress. For a great coffee (at non-liston prices) head to Café Gioia (Map p682 ; Xenofondos Stratigou 46) near the new port. Whatever you do, don t miss the taste sensations at Starenio Bakery (Map p684 ; % ; Guilford 59; snacks under 2), including a huge selection of homemade gourmet pies, breads and the best of best cakes. Sweet indeed. RESTAURANTS Stroll around pretty Dimarchiou (Town Hall Sq; northeast of the Spianada) and along Guilford or Kapodistriou and the latter s off-shoots for traditional and contemporary eateries and mezedhes. IONIAN ISLANDS

351 686 CORFU North of Corfu Town CORFU North of Corfu Town 687 IONIAN ISLANDS Mouragio (Map p684 ; % ; Arseniou 15; mains 6-14) The definite pick of this strip, despite the neighbouring (touristy) restaurants hogging the ocean view. This local s location and good-value place serves massive portions of well-cooked grills and seafood. Rouvás (Map p684 ; % ; S Desilla 13; mains 8-14; hlunch) Just like Ma used to make. The Greek American chef here does magic with traditional dishes, so much so that he was recently filmed with UK celebrity chef Rick Stein for a TV cooking programme. La Famiglia (Map p684 ; % ; Maniarizi Arlioti 16; mains 8-18; hdinner) Check out the contemporary gingham tastes at this Greek-Italian eatery. A delectable range of pastas provides relief from the usual Greek square meal. Perfect for an Italian fix and faster than a ferry trip to Italy. It s a bit tricky to find on a tiny laneway halfway along Nikiforou Theotoki. otavern Tripa (off Map p682 ; % ; set banquet 35) Calling all foodies, but with a warning: you ll need to fast for two days to make the most of this experience 10 top-quality local dishes including cheese, antipasto, chicken and beef and everything in between. Oh, and they re just the appetisers. The main dishes (yes, plural), are yet to come. You can always burn off the calories on the dance floor, to the live music and dance performers. Not surprisingly, the tavern hosts hungry world presidents to (non-anorexic) film stars. In Kinopiastes, 7km from Corfu town. Book ahead. Also recommended: To Platy Kantouni (Map p684 ; % ; Guilford 16; plates 4-7) You can make a meal of these tasty traditional mezedhes plates they add up in every sense. Stathis (Map p684 ; % ; Elefteriou Venizelou 36; mains 6-12) Not the fanciest location in town (although handy for the ferry), but by far one of the best for price and taste try the calamari. Ninos (Krisi; Map p684 ; % ; Sevastianou 44; mains 8-14) Started in 1920, this family concern is as authentic as Zorba. Back-to-basics takeaways are available. To Dimarchio (Map p684 ; % ; Dimarchiou; mains ) Upmarket menu and a beautiful setting. SELF-CATERING North of San Rocco is the bustling produce market (Map p684 ; hclosed Sun), open morning to early afternoon and selling fresh fruit, vegetables and fish. For groceries try Dimitra supermarket (Map p684 ; G Markora), or try other supermarkets (Map p682 ) by the longdistance bus station, in the old town (Map p684 ), and on Theotoki I opposite the main plaza (Map p684 ). Drinking All the bars along the Liston are the places to be and be seen. The line-up includes (all on Map p684 ): Libro d Oro, Arco, Liston and Kafe Koklia. Also recommended are Lounge Café (Map p684 ) and the classy rooftop bar at the Cavalieri Hotel ( p685 ). Entertainment To hang out with the cool crowds in the hightech and very-late-night scene, head to Corfu s bar-cum-disco strip, 2km northwest of the new port, along Ethnikis Antistasis (off Map p682 ; take a taxi). Recommended spots are the hip and classy Privilege and more local Au Bar (Ω in Greek), which caters to the locals. The 10 admission fee includes one freebie drink. For visual entertainment, the old town s Orpheus cinema (Map p684 ; % ; G Aspioti) screens English-language films with Greek subtitles. Look around town for signs detailing music performances. Occasional folk festivals music, dance and cultural are held in Corfu. Check for further information. Shopping Numerous sweet shops and tourist haunts cram the streets of the tourist-oriented old town. Some reasonable fashion shops for shoes, swimwear and dress items are located in the new town, especially along G Theotoki. CORFU ACTIVITIES NORTH OF CORFU TOWN Much of the coast just north of Corfu Town is saturated by tourist mobs and tacky developments, though beyond Pyrgi the winding, scenic road reveals some of Corfu s delights. However, before reaching Pyrgi, head to the quaint village of Kato Korakiana (near Dassia), to visit the National Art Gallery Alexandros Soutzos Museum, annex of Corfu (% ; h10am-2pm & 6-9pm Mon, Wed & Fri, 10am-2pm, Thu, Sat & Sun, closed Tue). This restored building, known as the Castellino Building, features permanent and temporary art exhibitions. Works are from the country s National Art Gallery, and include Greek masters and artists of the Ionian School. The village alone is worth visiting for its authenticity. Just beyond Pyrgi, take a detour to Mt Pantokrator (906m), the island s highest peak. On your way, wind your way around the many hairpin bends and through the picturesque villages of Spartylas and Strinylas. At Strinylas, most pause under the greenery at Taverna Oasis, but Taverna To Steki opposite is renowned for its tasty good-value local cuisine (open evenings only). From here a road climbs through stark terrain with wonderful wildflowers, to the mountain s summit, the Moni Pantokrator. If you can ignore the presence of a massive telecommunications tower in the middle of its grounds, you can enjoy stupendous, if sometimes hazy, views. Heading northeast from Pyrgi around the winding coastal road, the first decent place is Nisaki, little more than a tiny cove with a pebble beach, a couple of tavernas and some rooms. Agni is renowned for its three competing tavernas Taverna Toula (% ), Taverna Nikolas (% ) and Taverna Agni (% ), all of which serve excellent fare. The village of Kalami is famous for the White House, home to writer Lawrence Durrell and perched near water. The base of the building houses an inevitably touristy restaurant, while the house itself can be rented (see p688 ). Just round the next headland is the pretty fishing harbour and beach of Kouloura, which affords a good view of the neighbouring coast of Albania. Agios Stefanos is pretty in two respects pretty upmarket (popular with British villa vultures) and with a beautiful harbour and small shingle beach. Avlaki, a bay further around the coast, reveals a lovely long beach and a couple of tavernas, including the atmospheric Cavo Barbaro (% ; mains 7-15), and is a relaxing place surprisingly without touristy hordes (yet). Kassiopi is worth considering for a night s stopover. Ignore the blow-up beach paraphernalia dominating the modern part of town and head to the attractive harbour. Opposite the church on the main street a small track leads to the town s castle ruins, and you can walk over the headland to the nearby Battaria and Kanoni es. The main road continues inland to the overdeveloped and ultratouristy resorts of Aharavi, Roda and Sidhari. Agios Stefanos in the island s west (not to be confused with the village of Agios Stefanos in the northeast) is pleasant, more for its long sandy beach and high sand-cliffs than for the rather plain and uninteresting village. Regular boat excursions and a local ferry service leave Naturally enough, the best activities in this part of the world relate to water. If you re not fortunate enough to be sailing in the region on a private yacht, several companies offer yacht charter services, flotilla holidays or sailing lessons, including Corfu Sea School (% ; Marina Gouvia). For exploring coastal coves, renting a motorboat is the only way to go. Many places such as Marina Gouvia, Paleokastritsa and Kalami rent out boats. You can dive in the crystal-clear waters off Corfu; diving operators are based in Kassiopi, Agios Gordios, Agios Giorgios, Ipsos, Gouvia and Paleokastritsa. For landlubbers, walking here is superb. You can experience the countryside (with its wildflowers) and unspoilt villages. Keen walkers should tap into The Corfu Trail traverses the island and takes between eight and 12 days to complete. For help with coordinating accommodation along the trail, contact Aperghi Travel (% ; The book In the Footsteps of Lawrence Durrell and Gerald Durrell in Corfu (Hilary Whitton Paipeti, 1999) is great for lovers of the writing duo, and for keen explorers. Given Corfu s hilly terrain, mountain-biking is popular. Corfu Mountainbike Shop (% ; is based in Dasia and rents out bikes for independent exploration, as well as organising day trips and cycling holidays. Not far from Ermones on the island s west coast is the Corfu Golf Club (% ; one of the few such courses in Greece. Or you can go horse riding through olive groves with Trailriders (% ), based in the village of Ano Korakiana. Bird-watchers should pigeon the Birdwatching Centre of Ropa Valley (% ), who meet regularly at the Golf Club. Wine-lovers can try a drop or three at Triklino Vineyard (% ; on the Pelekas road near Karoubatika. IONIAN ISLANDS

352 688 CORFU South of Corfu Town Book accommodation online at CORFU West Coast 689 IONIAN ISLANDS from its small harbour to the Diapondia Islands, a cluster of little-known satellite islands. For organised day excursions, contact San Stefano Travel (% ; Alternatively, contact the Port Authority (% ) in Corfu Town for the ferry schedules to the islands. Head inland to experience verdant landscapes plus hairpin bends that make the Monaco Grand Prix circuit seem like an airstrip. You ll pass through delightful hilltop villages including Mesaria, Agios Athanasios and Agros. Sleeping & Eating Dionysus Camping Village (% ; camp sites per adult/car/tent 5.40/ 3.30/3.80, huts per person 10; s) The closest camping ground to Corfu Town, signposted between Tzavros and Dasia and well served by bus 7 and good facilities. Olive terraces serve as the camping area, or you can opt for simple pine-clad huts with straw roofs; tents can also be hired. Bounias Apartments/Villa Alexandra (% ; studio 45, 3-/4-person apt 47-95) Welcoming owner, Alexandra, enjoys hosting her guests as much as they enjoy their stay. The damp-smelling bottom-floor studios aren t as pleasant as the slightly dated, but clean and spacious apartments above. Located about 2km from Kassiopi, near Avlaki. Manessis Apartments (% ; diana@otenet.gr; Kassiopi; 4-person apt 100) It s hard to pick what s more pleasant the friendly Greek- Irish owner, or her homely bougainvillea- and vine-covered two-bedroom apartments. The location, at the end of Kassiopi s picturesque harbour, makes a lovely base. White House (% ; -corfu.gr; Kalami; house per night 160) Lawrence Durrell fans can stay in the writer s former residence, which sleeps up to eight people. The interiors are nothing to write a book about, but the position, right on the water, and the wonderful outlook are novel. For meals, head below to the White House Taverna (% , mains 7 to 16.50). Tassos Boat Hire & Accommodation (% ; Kalami; apt per week from 500) If White House is full, Tassos can accommodate you in some pleasant studios near the waterfront. Rates can halve outside July and August. Ice Dream Gelateria (% ) Five minutes drive north of Kassiopi, opposite an EPKO petrol station, is this obligatory stop. Authentic, creamy gelati (ice cream) made on the premises. Worth every lick. SOUTH OF CORFU TOWN The coast road continues south from Corfu Town with a turn-off to well-signposted Ahillion Palace (% ; adult/concession 7/5; h8.30am-3pm Nov-Mar, 8am-7pm Apr-Oct), near the village of Gastouri. In the 1890s it was the summer palace of Austria s Empress Elizabeth (King Otho of Greece was her uncle). The beautifully landscaped garden is guarded by some elaborate statues of mythological heroes. Be sure to climb the stairs to the right of the villa to the marbled terrace for a view through the window of the fresco depicting Achilles, to whom she dedicated the villa. The narrow winding streets of the old village are the only things that save the suburbanfeel resort town of Benitses. That, and a decent taverna, O Paxinos (% ), which, despite its multilingual menu and credit card stickers on the window, is popular with Greeks for its excellent fish ( 46 to 56 per kilogram). Off the beaten track along the winding coastal road south of Messonghi is the spread-out Boukari. It ain t for the action-traveller, but it s tranquil and pretty. The non-intrusive tavernas under oleander trees on the edge of the water are a great place to unwind. In Boukari you can stay at the Golden Sunset Hotel (% ; d incl breakfast 55-60, tr incl breakfast 60). Although motel modern in character, the rooms are bright and some have massive balconies with sea views. A restaurant is attached. A stopover in the region s administrative town, Lefkimmi, just over 10km from Boukari in the southern part of the island, reveals one of the island s most authentic towns. Fascinating churches are dotted throughout the older section, and a rather quaint, but sometimes odorous, canal flows (or doesn t) through it. The best accommodation is the pleasant Maria Madalena Apartments (% ; d 30). Eat at the River Restaurant (% ; mains 8-15), where UK celebrity chef Rick Stein reportedly filmed a segment for a TV cooking show. A basic alternative is Taverna Maria (dishes of the day around 6) on the canal. WEST COAST Some of Corfu s prettiest countryside, villages and beaches are situated on or around the west coast. The beautiful and popular town of Paleokastritsa, 26km from Corfu Town, is set along a 3km stretch of road. Small coves are hidden between tall cliffs, and cypresses and olive trees appear through the lush green mountain backdrop. You can venture to nearby grottoes or one of the 15 nearby beaches by small excursion boat (per person 8, 30 minutes), or water taxis can drop you off at a beach of your choice. There s a range of water-boat activities available. Cool sun-seekers can hang out at café-bar La Grotta (% ; Paleokastritsa), which is set in a stunning rocky cove with café, sunbeds and diving board. To enter, descend the long flight of steps opposite the driveway up to Hotel Paleokastritsa on the main road. Perched on the rocky promontory at the end of Paleokastritsa is the interesting and icon-filled Moni Theotokou (admission free; h7am- 1pm & 3-8pm), a monastery founded in the 13th century (although the present building dates from the 18th century). Just off the monastery s garden with ivy, vines, roses and pot plants is a small museum (admission free; h9am- 1pm & 3-6pm Apr-Oct). Most interesting is the olive mill exhibition under the museum, with a small shop selling oils and herbs. From Paleokastritsa a path ascends to the unspoilt village of Lakones, 5km inland by road. Be sure to check out the town s only kafeneio (Kafeneio Olympia) and the village s growing photographic archive (see boxed text, p690 ). Quaint Doukades has a historic square and excellent tavernas. The 6km road west to Krini and Makrades meanders at elevated heights; many restaurant owners have capitalised on the vistas. Be sure to visit Krini s miniature town square and nearby Angelokastro, the ruins of a Byzantine castle and the most western bastion on Corfu. If you have time, tackle the winding mountain pass to Pagi and onto the resort of Agios Georgios for an eating experience at the Fisherman s Taverna (see p691 ). South of Paleokastritsa, the pebbly beach at Ermones is dominated by tasteless development, but is near the Corfu Golf Club (%/fax ; Ropa Valley; per 18 holes 50), if you re craving a round. Hilltop Pelekas, 4km away, is a good base for beach bums. This friendly village has a reasonable infrastructure yet attracts more independent travellers than package people. The attractive, traditional mountain village of Sinarades has old buildings, narrow streets, a beautiful clock tower and several excellent tavernas. Its fascinating Folkloric Museum (adult/ concession 1.50/0.60; h9am-2pm Mon-Sat) is housed in a former farmhouse. The curator, Tasa, can tell you more about Greek history than Homer himself. Near Pelekas village are two sandy beaches, Glyfada and Pelekas (marked on some maps as Kontogialos, and also a resort in its own right), with water sports and sunbeds galore. These are quite developed, backed by large hotels and accommodation options. A free bus service runs from Pelekas village to these beaches. Further north is the popular, but dwindling (due to erosion) Myrtiotissa beach; the former unofficial nudist colony has more or less merged with the happy families section, save for some giant boulders in between. Warning: it s a long slog down a steep, unsealed road before you see a bottom of any kind (drivers should park in the parking area on the hilltop). Agios Gordios is a popular beach-bum hangout south of Glyfada. The long sandy beach can cope with the crowds. Its backdrop is a sparse and exposed flat landscape, appealing to travellers interested primarily in a serious sun scene. A CUT ABOVE THE REST Male travellers who may have let their hair down during their vacation should razor on down to the small village of Kouramades, 5km southeast of Pelakas. This tiny place is home to a highly respected (and dare we say eccentric) barber, Mr Yiangos Hytiris (% ). Since 1949 Mr Hytiris has been servicing hirsute clients who come not only from around the island, but as far away as Athens. He is well known for his quirky barber s shop, which is housed in a distinctive rust-coloured building with green shutters. It s a tribute to the bygone era of the barber s art cut-throat razors and other manual and technical gadgets are mounted on the walls, along with a collection of hundreds of ornaments and mirrors. If you decide to pay him a visit, be respectful and dress appropriately he s a proud and skilled artiste from the old world, and would not appreciate clients rocking up in beach gear. IONIAN ISLANDS

353 690 CORFU West Coast Book accommodation online at PAXI Getting There & Away 691 IONIAN ISLANDS While there s not much to see other than the cave itself, the ancient Rockshelter of Grava Gardikiou has a fascinating history: it dates from the Upper Palaeolithic period of 20,000 BC when Corfu was part of what is now mainland Epiros. Hunter-gatherers used such shelters during hunting trips stone tools and animal bones have been found here. Turn off the main road to Halikounas (and then to Gardiki Castle). Look for the faded roadside sign. The site is 400m uphill through olive groves (follow the orange arrows on the trees). Sleeping & Eating Paleokastritsa has many hotels, studios and a few domatia (rooms, usually in private homes) spread along the road. Paleokastritsa Camping (% ; Paleokastritsa; camp sites per adult/car/tent 4.80/2.90/3.40) On the right of the main approach road to town is this shady and well-organised camping ground, set on historic olive terraces. Hotel Zefiros (% ; Paleokastritsa; d incl breakfast 70-80, tr incl breakfast ) It s hard to beat this perfect place. It s been recently refurbished, without losing its former friendly atmosphere or good prices. The 11 stylish rooms are contemporary yet comfortable, and some have a massive terrace. Hospitable owner Johnny clearly loves his job. Rolling Stone (% ; Pelekas ; r 30-40, apt 98) This atmospheric 70s throwback comes with laid-back hosts, clean and spacious apartments and double rooms, and the odd hippy touch including that of its wellness person (relaxation treatments 10 to 30). The terrace with bar, funky bright stools and sofa provides the perfect chill pad. Jimmy s Restaurant & Rooms (% ; jimmyspelekas@hotmail.com; d/tr 40/50; a) Nononsense rooms with rooftop views, plus restaurant (mains 6 to 11). Near the intersection of the roads to Pelekas and Kaiser s Throne. MR VASSILIS MICHALAS SEPIA SNAPSHOT As a local taxi driver, based out of Lakones, Vassilis Michalas ferries tourists and Corfiots around the island. That, he says, is a secondary focus: he s also part of a tourist accommodation association, is involved in local politics and sings in Lakones choral group. Then, there s his role as a drummer in the village band and performer in the barcarole (the recreation of Odyssey, an annual event in Paleokastritsa). More recently, however, he s zoomed in on a passion of a different kind as the unofficial village archivist. He asked the people from his tiny village to donate photographs for safekeeping and display. The response was overwhelming and he has passionately set about the arduous task of photocopying and hand-framing hundreds of photos. His reasons are simple. People are losing sense of our history! he exclaims. The young people especially need to know their history. For example, why is our village called Lakones? Some older people know, but now the young people, they look after [are only concerned about] the football. I want to preserve old traditions. It s also good for outside people to know about the village. He points to a 1950 photograph of women in traditional dress, their hands on their hips and massive 100kg boulders on their head. This is very important. People need to know about this photo. These ladies built the first path between Paleokastritsa and Lakones. They received no money nothing! they had no machines. They alone decided to do this. Other photos reveal festivals and wedding groups, padres and floods. Then there are special events the village s water connection in 1958 and (the irony isn t lost on him) a B&W photo of the very first tourists taking photos of local people in As Vassilis points to the photo of the village s first choral group (the very same that he is currently a member of ), he breaks into song. He smiles. I have been in a music group since I was 12 years old. Everybody goes to music groups it s a natural part of our upbringing. Traditions are so important. It s well worth singing Vassilis praises. Lakones not-for-profit photographic archive is housed in the choral group s practice room in Lakones municipal building. Interested visitors can phone ahead (% ). Yialiskari Studios (% ; d studio 50; Yialiskari ; a) Studios with great vistas, and perfect for those who want their own patch away from neighbouring Pelekas. The studios are run by the owner of Yialiskari s only taverna, 150m away. Levant Hotel (% ; s/d/f 50/95/160; as) The oh-so-slightly shabby exterior of this neoclassical hotel hides luxury and elegance. Located near Kaiser s Throne lookout above Pelekas village, it has all the mod cons, a swimming pool set in gardens, and a restaurant (mains 6 to 12), plus a terrace with awesome views of the Adriatic and beyond. Fisherman s Taverna (% ; Agios Georgios; mains per 2 people 25-30) A sign says, Dear Customer. We are sorry but we cannot serve you if you are in a hurry. The eatery is tucked in to the right, 1.1km up a dirt road from the southern end of Agios Georgios, northwest of Pagi. Ignore the first taverna visible from the road, whose sign also says Fish Taverna. Go hungry and with time to spare. Frequented by younger travellers for the all-in hostel experiences are Pink Palace (% ; Agios Gordios ; r per person incl breakfast & dinner 18-25; i). This huge, garish complex, south of Sinarades, is considered the must-do hassle-free activity and party palace by those on the backpacker circuit. Sunrock (% ; /sunrock_corfu; Pelekas ; r per person incl breakfast & dinner 18-24; is) also offers the all-inclusive deal. PAXI ΠΑΞΟΙ pop 2500 Don t let the 10km by 4km size fool you: the tiny, alluring island package of Paxi offers a big and possibly the best Ionian experience. The smallest of the main islands, Paxi has three intimate harbour towns Gaïos, Loggos and Lakka. All feature pretty waterfronts with Venetian-style pink-and-cream storeyed buildings, set against hilly backdrops of lush greenery. Their nearby coves can be reached by motorboat, if not by car or on foot. The dispersed inland villages sit by centuriesold olive groves, winding stone walls, ancient windmills and olive presses. On the less accessible west coast, sheer limestone cliffs plunge hundreds of metres and are punctuated by grottoes. The old mule trails are a walker s delight. An obligatory purchase is the visually instructive and charming Bleasdale Walking Map of Paxos ( 10 to 15), available from the island s travel agencies. Paxi has escaped the mass tourism of Corfu and caters to discriminating tour companies (mainly British) and Italians who arrive en masse in August. Its slow pace makes for a relaxing stay. Accommodation mostly consists of prebooked apartments and villas; all the island s agencies can help with bookings. For independent travellers, there are a few rooms for rent signs around. Getting There & Away AIR AirSea Lines ( a seaplane service, promotes several flights a day between Corfu and Paxi (one way 40 to 50). On Paxi, purchase tickets at Bouas Tours (% ; Gaïos). Ask about the strict baggage weight allowance. BUS There s a twice-weekly direct bus service between Athens and Paxi ( 45, plus 6.80 for ferry ticket between Paxi and Igoumenitsa, seven hours). On Paxi, tickets are available from Bouas Tours ( above ). The bus leaves from Karaiskaki in Athens (note: the terminal changes, so always check with Bouas beforehand). FERRY Domestic Two car ferries operate daily services between Paxi, Igoumenitsa on the mainland, and Corfu. The Paxi Igoumenitsa (per person/ car 7/40) trip takes 1½ to two hours. Most island travel agents sell tickets. For connections to Corfu ring the information office in Igoumenitsa (% ). Ferries dock at Gaïos new port, 1km east of the central square. Excursion boats dock along the waterfront. International You can reach Corfu and Igoumenitsa from the major ports in Italy, then transfer to a local ferry for Paxi. SNAV ( operates a high-speed catamaran between Brindisi and Paxi ( 90 or 140 depending on date of travel, 4¾ hours), via Corfu, daily from July to early September. IONIAN ISLANDS

354 692 PAXI Gaïos Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at PAXI Loggos 693 IONIAN ISLANDS PAXI & ANTIPAXI Lakka Kastanitha Cave Paxi Magazia S E A Loggos Fontana Ortholithos Stack Gaïos Bogdanatika Agrilas Bay Agrilas Vellianitatika Trypitos I O N I A N To Corfu (10km) South Kerkyra Straits Panagia Islet Agios Nikolaos Islet Ozias 0 2 km 0 1 mile Excursion Mongonisi Vigla To Igoumenitsa (25km) Agrapidia See Paxos Magic Holidays ( right ) in Gaïos for reservations. HYDROFOIL Popular passenger-only hydrofoils link Corfu and Paxi (and occasionally Igoumenitsa) from May until mid-october. There are one to two services daily (more on Mondays), between Corfu and Paxi ( 15.10, 1¼ hours). For information contact Arvanitakis Travel (% , Paxi), or Petrakis Lines ( p683 ) in Corfu. SEA TAXI Sea taxis can be a fast and effective way of travel, especially if there are other people on board. The going rate between Corfu and Paxi is around 180 per boat, shared among the passengers. Try Nikos from Gaïos on % (or try seataxi.com); or Andreas from Lakka on % Boat Antipaxi Vrika Voutoumi Getting Around The island s bus links Gaïos and Lakka via Loggos up to four times daily in either direction ( 1.80). Taxis between Gaïos and Lakka or Loggos cost around 10; at the time of research, the taxi rank in Gaïos was temporarily located at the bus stop (normally it s at the waterfront). Daily car hire varies between 45 and 115 in high season. Reliable Alfa Hire (% ) in Gaïos offers car rental, as does Fougaros (% ; Rent a Scooter Vassilis (% ), opposite the bus stop in Gaïos, has a good range of scooters and mopeds, ideal for zipping around the island. Many travel agencies rent out small boats this is a great way to access beach coves. GAÏOS ΓΑЇΟΣ pop 560 Gaïos, on a sweeping, east-coast bay, is the island s small and well-equipped capital. Its pink, cream and whitewashed buildings line the bay, and the town s main Venetian square, swamped with the inevitable bars and cafés, abuts the waterfront. The island is cosseted from the open sea by the nearby fortified islet of Agios Nikolaos. Panagia Islet, named after its monastery, lies at the northern entrance to the bay. The main street (Panagioti Kanga) runs inland from the main square towards the back of town, where you ll find the bus stop. Banks and ATMs are near the square and you ll find an internet room on the waterfront Bar Pío Pío (per hr 6). There isn t a tourist office, but the helpful and efficient staff at Paxos Magic Holidays (% ; will happily direct you. They organise island excursions, including boating trips and wonderful walks. They can also arrange villa accommodation in advance. The Cultural Museum (admission 2; h10am-2pm & 7-11pm), in a former school on the southern waterfront, has an eclectic collection of local historical artefacts, including a 17th-century sex aid. Sleeping Thekli Studios (Clara Studios; % ; d 70; a) Thekli, the local fisher-diver and energetic personality about town, runs these immaculate and well-equipped studios. They re centrally located upstairs behind the museum, and overlook the village and sea. Thekli will meet you at the port call ahead. San Giorgio Apartments (% ; d/tr 70/90) Pink, blue and white are the colours of these dated, but airy and clean, studios, and they boast the basic kitchen facilities. Head towards town from the port by the lower (pedestrian) harbour road, and follow the signposted steps. Cheaper rooms only are also available ( 55). Paxos Hotel (% ; s/d/tr incl breakfast & dinner from 93/108/140; a) The rather worn bungalows of this hillside complex, 1.5km south of Gaïos, are set a lobster claw apart, but they sprawl down to the sea, and have a range of rooms from standard to superior. There s a private jetty, tennis court, beach, bar and restaurant. Eating Capriccio Café Creperie (% ; crepes 3-6; hbreakfast-late) For a cheap and filling sweet or savoury experience, head past the museum to this creperie. Tables are under large brollies near the seafront. Don t miss the Shepherd s Crepe, the fruit and yogurt choice ( 5). Taverna Vasilis (% ; mains 6-14) The owner of this eatery is a former butcher, and this place makes the cut. Wrap your own chops around the tasty spit-roasts or other delicious meaty servings. Karkaletzos (% ; mains 7-10) This cheap and cheerful grill house is the overwhelming locals choice, 1km behind town. The menu states (in English) that the proprietors will accept criticism or observations without any hysterical reaction. As hospitable as this is, we suggest you just go with the flow. Taka Taka (% ; mains 8-20) This upmarket seafood experience behind the main square will leave you positively floating. As well as high-quality seafood ( 40 to 75 per kilogram), the reputable Italian chef prepares pasta dishes. The frutti di mare (spaghetti marinara) will set you back 20. The supermarket is west of the central square. Two excellent bakeries, one on the waterfront, the other near the main square, serve Paxiot delights. LOGGOS ΛΟΓΓΟΣ Loggos is 5km northwest of Gaïos. The hub of this small fishing village is the intimate quay, which is lined with chic bars and restaurants. At one end of the quay is an old, abandoned olive-soap factory. The town has a steep lush backdrop and some wonderful coves and pebble beaches nearby. Café Bar Four Seasons (per hr 6) has internet facilities. Sleeping & Eating Studio (% , ; d 55) This some what bohemian studio is owned by, and sits above, the gift shop Marbou, and it s a quaint bougainvillead option. Best to book in advance. Arthur House (% ; studio 75, apt 110) While the name implies an English-style villa, these modest but spotless studios are above the owner s house, a two-minute walk from the waterfront. Julia s boat and bike hire is part of the family deal. O Gios (% ; mains 6-14) The ugly duckling of the strip, with one of the bestvalue seafood and grill dishes. Vasilis (% ; mains 8-14) This classy terracotta-coloured family-run restaurant running since 1956 is headed by the quiet achiever and chef, Kostas. As well as the regular dishes, he conjures up daily specials anything from octopus in red wine sauce to lamb casserole. Drinking Kafeneio Burnaos (Magaziá; hno set hrs) Don t blink or you ll miss this delightful 60-year-old kafeneio, located in Magaziá, several kilometres southwest of Loggos. Locals gather here to play cards and backgammon (there s even a set from 1957). Third-generation owner Kosta has maintained its original feel; attractive jars and produce line the shelves. Well worth the stop Kosta makes a great Greek coffee, too. Chill out over one of Spyros megafresh fruit cocktail sundowners with the bohemian crowd at To Taxidi, or try the friendly and upbeat Roxy Bar, with a crowd and music to match. You can move with your mood between the myriad of terraces. LAKKA ΛΑΚΚΑ The picturesque, tranquil and unspoiled harbour of Lakka lies at the end of an almost circular bay on the north coast. It s a yachties haven, with many good bars and restaurants. There are small, but decent, beaches around the bay s headland, including Harami, and pleasant walks nearby. Routsis Holidays (% ; /routsis-holidays) and Planos Holidays (% ; IONIAN ISLANDS

355 694 LEFKADA Getting There & Away LEFKADA Lefkada & its Satellites 695 IONIAN ISLANDS are helpful agencies responsible for well-appointed apartments and villas for all budgets. Routsis will accommodate people for shorter-term stays at Lefkothea (d without bathroom 35), the nearest thing you ll find to a hostel here. Don t do the white glove test on the communal kitchen and bathroom, but the rooms themselves are clean and it s cheap and central. The trendiest outlook for a drink, internet access ( 7.50 per hour), or an upmarket meal is Akis Bar (% ; snacks 3-11 & mains 9-17; i). Try the 350g swordfish souvlaki ( 17.50). The skewer itself cuts its own style; it hangs from a funky metal stand. An oldie but a goodie, Nionios (% ) is the oldest taverna in Paxi (or so they claim open since 1945), and it produces extra-tantalizing traditional dishes and thankfully, not much has changed. ANTIPAXI ΑΝΤΙΠΑΞΟΙ pop 10 The stunning and diminutive island of Antipaxi, 2km south of Paxi, is covered with grape vines, olives and small hamlets. Caïques and tourist boats run daily from Gaïos and Lakka, and pull in at two beach coves, the small, sandy Vrika and the pretty, pebbly Voutoumi. Floating in the water here with its dazzling clarity is a sensational experience. An inland path links the two beaches (a 30-minute walk), or if you are more of an energetic person you can walk up to the village of Vigla, or as far as the lighthouse at the southernmost tip (you should refer to the Bleasdale map and take plenty of water allow 1½ hours minimum each way). Voutoumi has two eateries Bella Vista and a taverna on the beach. Vrika also has two good competing tavernas Spiros and Vrika. Main meals at both cost between 7 and 15. Check the price when offered the daily fish specials, or you could net a large catch in more ways than one. Both tavernas have designated areas with free use of beach umbrellas and sunbeds. Accommodation is available through one or two of the beach tavernas. Ask the watertaxi drivers and taverna owners. Boats to Antipaxi (from 6 return) leave Gaïos at 10am and return around 5.30pm there are more services in high season. LEFKADA ΛΕΥΚΑΔΑ pop 22,500 Lefkada (or Lefkas) is the fourth-largest island in the Ionians. Non-islanders tend to scorn its status as an island; it was once joined to the mainland by a narrow isthmus until the occupying Corinthians dug a canal in the 8th century BC. The 25m strait is now spanned by a causeway. Lefkada s mountainous peaks exceed 1000m, and the island s fertile fields include olive groves, vineyards, and fir and pine forests. There are 10 satellite islets off the heavily developed east coast, and the less populated west coast boasts spectacular beaches. Lefkada s beauty is also in its proud people. In the villages, look out for the older women in traditional dress. Getting There & Away AIR Lefkada has no airport, but the airport near Preveza (Aktion) on the mainland is about 20km away. Flights operate daily between Athens and Preveza ( 90 to 110), and three times a week between Corfu ( 40) and Kefallonia ( 35). Contact Olympic Airlines (% ; Filippa Panagou 10, Lefkada Town) for bookings and information. BUS From Lefkada Town s KTEL bus station (% ; Golemi) on the main waterfront road, buses head to Athens ( 29, 5½ hours, four or five daily), Patra ( 14, three hours, two to three weekly), Thessaloniki ( 36, eight hours, one to two weekly and more in high season), Preveza ( 2.60, 30 minutes, six to seven daily) and Igoumenitsa (two hours, daily). FERRY Four Islands Ferries runs a daily ferry service that sails to an ever-changing schedule (and with ever-changing prices) between Nydri (Lefkada), Frikes (Ithaki), Fiskardo (Kefallonia) and Vasiliki (Lefkada). Trips include Nydri to/from Frikes (per person/ car 5.30/26.50, 1½ hours), Nydri to/from Fiskardo (via Frikes; 6.40/27.50, 2½ hours) and Vasiliki to/from Fiskardo (per person/car 6.40/27.50, one hour). Information and tickets can be obtained from Borsalino Travel (% ; borsalin@otenet.gr) LEFKADA & ITS SATELLITES Gialos Egremni Porto Katsiki Cape Lefkatas I O N I A N Dragano Athani S E A Mylos Kathisma Kalamitsi Hortata Komili Agios Petra Vasiliki Bay To Ithaki (5km); Kefallonia (8km) Agios Nikitas Agiofylli Pefkoulia Agios Nikitas Vasiliki Drymonas Exanthia Karya Englouvi 1125 Moni Faneromenis 1157 Haradiatika Syvros Alexandros Vafkeri Marantohori Cape Lipso Agios Ioannis Tsoukalades Apolpena Lazarata Platistoma Lefkada Syvota Evgyros To Ithaki (5km); Kefallonia (8km) Cape Gyropetra Lefkada Bay Lefkada Town Vlyho Campground Kalligoni Kariotes Rahi Nydri Vlicho Bay Poros Poros Rouda Bay Katouna Fortress of Agia Mavra Lygia Drepanos Bay Nikiana Dorpfeld's Grave Arkoudi Perigiali Desimi Thilia Madouri Agios Ioannis Sparti Porto Spilia Skorpidi Skorpios Spartohori Meganisi Papanikolis Cave 0 4 km 0 2 miles Vathy Katomeri Kolopoulos Bay Petalou To Preveza (28km) To Aktion Airport (20km) STEREA ELLADA Ambelakia Bay Porto Athina Porto Alia Limonari Kythros Cape Akoni Cape Kefali IONIAN ISLANDS

356 696 LEFKADA Lefkada Town Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at LEFKADA East Coast & Surrounds 697 IONIAN ISLANDS in Nydri and from Samba Tours (% ; in Vasiliki. Getting Around There s no reliable bus connection between Lefkada and Aktion airport, near Preveza. Taxis are relatively expensive (around 35); a cheaper option is to take a taxi to Preveza and then a bus to Lefkada From Lefkada Town, frequent buses ply the east coast, with up to 20 services daily to Nydri and Vlyho in high season, and four daily to Vasiliki. There are regular buses to Agios Nikitas, and two limited high-season services to Kalamitsi and Athani. Around six daily services head to the inland village of Karya. Other villages are served by one or two buses daily. Sunday services are reduced. Car hire starts at 35 per day, depending on season and model. Cars can be hired from reliable Europcar (% ; Panagou 16, Lefkada Town), next door at Budget (% ) or from Aris (% ; Iroon Politechniou 32). Rent a bike or moped from Santas (% ), next to the Ionian Star Hotel. There are countless car- and bike-rental companies in Nydri and several in Vasiliki. LEFKADA TOWN pop 6900 The island s main town is built on a promontory at the southeastern corner of a salty lagoon. Earthquakes are a constant threat here and the town was devastated by one in 1948 (but unaffected in 1953), only to be rebuilt in a distinctively quake-proof and attractive style with upper floors in brightly painted corrugated iron. The town has a relaxed feel, with a vibrant main thoroughfare, a pleasant plaza and exquisite churches with separate bell towers to withstand seismic activity. The yachting crowd is serviced by a smart marina. Orientation & Information The town s vibrant main pedestrian strip, Dorpfeld, starts south of the causeway. The street is named after 19th-century archaeologist Wilhelm Dorpfeld, who postulated that Lefkada, not Ithaki, was the home of Odysseus. Dorpfeld leads to Agiou Spyridonos, the main square, and continues as Ioannou Mela, which is lined with modern shops and cafés. ATMs and the post office are on Ioannou Mela. There s no tourist office. The bus station is on the southern waterfront. Internet Cafezínho (Golemi 14; per hr 3) near the bus station offers internet access, plus superlative coffee. Internet Café (Koutroubi; per hr 2.40), just off 8th Merarchias, also has internet. Sights Housed in the modern Cultural Centre at the western end of Agelou Sikelianou is the Archaeological Museum (% ; adult/concession 2/1; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun). It has four well displayed and labelled rooms containing island artefacts spanning the Palaeolithic Age to the Late Roman periods. The prize exhibit is a 6th-century-BC terracotta figurine of a flute player with nymphs. Works by icon painters from the Ionian school and Russia dating back to 1500 are displayed in an impressive collection of post- Byzantine icons (% ; Rontogianni; admission free; h8.30am-1.30pm Tue-Sat, pm Tue & Thu). It s in a classical building and also houses the public library off Ioannou Mela. The 14th-century Venetian Fortress of Agia Mavra (h9am-1.30pm Mon, 8.30am-1pm Tue-Sun) is immediately across the causeway. It was first established by the crusaders but the remains mainly date from the Venetian and Turkish occupations of the island. Moni Faneromenis, 3km west of town, was founded in 1634, destroyed by fire in 1886 and later rebuilt. It houses a new museum (h9am-1pm, 6-8pm, closed Sun) with ecclesiastical art from around the island. The views of the lagoon and town are also worth the ascent. In the old town, look out for the attractive churches, with their separate iron bell towers. Sleeping Hotel Santa Maura (% ; s/d/tr incl breakfast 50/70/80; a) With potential is how a real estate agent might describe this charming, but tired, place. There s need for a lift (in every respect) and some rooms are better than others those onto Dorpfeld are bright, but noisy. Pension Pirofani (% ; Dorpfeld; d/tr 75/90; a) Ignore the faded photo out the front, as these are well-appointed, great-value rooms with decent-sized superhygienic bathrooms. The balconies overlooking Dorpfeld are fun for crowd-watching, but rooms at the back will ensure a better night s kip. Ionian Star Hotel (% ; s/d/tr incl breakfast 100/115/130; nas) The foyer s elaborate Greek statue promises special things. In reality, this pleasant five-star place has predictable offerings, but with enough trimmings to ensure a comfortable stay. There s even a good old 70s-style kidney-shaped pool. All the rooms are light and have good views. Eating Regantos (% ; Vergioti 17; mains 5-12) The bright yellow and blue hues of this popular place seem a bit contrived however, the food (such as fish, 35) at this family-run taverna is genuine and traditional. Everyone from Swedes to Greeks flocks here, but we found the service a bit surly. Ey Zhn (Rontogianni 7; mains 8-17) Ease in, indeed. The food a deliciously contemporary take on Greek food isn t cheap, but the quality is outstanding. Stylish bars and cafés line the western side of the waterfront; Karma (Dorpfeld), at the start of Dorpfeld, is the place to see and be seen. Agiou Spyridonos is crammed with cafés and crowds. The marina offers alternative options for a more-tranquil sundowner with the yachties. Self-caterers can pick up supplies from the supermarket (Golemi) next to the bus station or from the well-stocked bakery (Ioannou Mela 182). EAST COAST & SURROUNDS To its detriment, the east coast is mainly associated with Nydri, once a fishing village but now an unattractive strip of tourist junk shops with a questionable beach. The coastal areas around Nydri have been affected by insensitive development, but it doesn t take much to avoid this; venture inland and you re in another world scattered villages, local tavernas and good walks. Nydri is unavoidable if you want to access the islets of Madouri, Sparti, Skorpidi and Skorpios, plus Meganisi. Numerous excursions go to Meganisi and stop for a swim near Skorpios ( 15 to 28), and some visit Ithaki and Kefallonia as well ( 20). To go it alone, hire a motorboat from Trident (% ) on the waterfront drag. Helpful Borsalino Travel (% ; borsalin@otenet.gr) on the main street can organise the travel gamut. The privately owned islet of Madouri, where Greek poet Aristotelis Valaoritis ( ) spent his last 10 years, is off limits. So too is Skorpios, where members of the Onassis family are buried in a cemetery, but cruise boats pause off a sandy beach on the northern side of the island for a swim stop. Amblers might enjoy the lovely walk to waterfalls 3km out of Nydri (and another 400m past the tavern). The walk follows a path through a ravine; be careful of the slippery rocks. Yachties have caught wind of the small harbour of Syvota, 15km south of Nydri. Thankfully, it isn t to the detriment of the local fishermen, who anchor at harbour and fix their brightly coloured nets. It s a tranquil option for a base, although you d need transport to explore, and there s no beach to speak of. Sleeping & Eating Ionian Paradise (% ; a) At the time of research the Ioanian Paradise (formerly Gorgona Hotel), was being fully refurbished (prices unavailable), but judging from its former status, it should be a pleasant if slighly pricier option if you do stay in Nydri. It s down a side street diagonally opposite the Avis car-rental office. Pinewood (% ; mains ) Okay, so Nydri does have something going for it. Locals highly recommend this efficiently run grill room, where meat is meat and they know how to cook it to perfection. It s signed to the right at the northern end of the main street. Poros Camping & Bungalows (% ; camp sites per adult/car/tent 8/4/5, studio 75-90; s) Twelve kilometres south of Nydri is this unpretentious complex overlooking pretty Poros /Mikros Gialos. It has studio apartments and shady camping, plus restaurant, minimarket, bar and swimming pool. Apartments Sivota (% ; r 45, 2- person studio 55, 3-person apt 80-90), In Syvota, try these pleasant apartments. They re set slightly back from the beachfront, but have balconies and views, and there s a range of accommodation combinations. Pavlos (% ; mains ; Haradiatika) Once upon a time, on the main square of a tiny village, stood a very special restaurant. It was basic, but it served food that all the people on the island spoke about This is no fairy tale; the reality is that it serves olde-style foods including kokoretsi, frigadeli, and splinadero (best you don t ask think offal and innards). Eat here with the locals and you ll live happily ever after. IONIAN ISLANDS

357 698 LEFKADA Vasiliki Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at KEFALLONIA Getting There & Away 699 IONIAN ISLANDS VASILIKI ΒΑΣΙΛΙΚΗ Two types of people come to Vasiliki: the tanned and toned, and the sedate. Vasiliki is the centre of watersports and is considered the windsurfing location in Europe, due to distinct thermal winds. But it s not all fast sailing; the winding waterfront, with the eucalyptus and canopy-covered eateries, provides a tranquil environment in which to relax, unlike the unpleasant stony beach. Caïques take visitors to the island s better beaches and coves including Agiofylli, south of Vasiliki. Along the beach, windsurfing and sailing (catamaran) companies have staked their claims with flags, equipment and their own hotels for their package guests. If they have spare gear, some will willingly rent it to the independent enthusiast for a day or two. Helpful Samba Tours (% ; can organise car and bike hire, and answer most queries regarding the region. Other car rental places are Christo s Alex s (% ) near the bus stop, and GM Rentals (% ) in the main street. Sleeping & Eating Vassiliki Camping ( ; campkingk@otenet.gr; camp sites person/tent/car 7.50/5/6) A neat and compact camping option with easy access to the beach. Pension Holidays (% ; d 60; a) Delightful Spiros offers Greek hospitality, breakfast on the balcony with harbour vista, and simply furnished but well-equipped rooms. Above the ferry dock. Prices vary according to length of stays. Vasiliki Bay Hotel (% ; vassilikibay.gr; s/d incl breakfast 60/70; a) If you don t mind being away from the water, you can t go too far wrong in this stylish and friendly place, up behind Alexander Restaurant. Prices enormously reduced outside August. Delfini (Dolphin; % ; mains ) The best of a ho-hum harbour haul; this eatery gets the most recommendations and it s open all year. Indeed, the food (including fish) is fresh and cooked to order. WEST COAST & AROUND Serious beach bods should skip Lefkada s east coast and head straight for the west. The sea here actually lives up to the clichéd brochure spiel; it s an incredible turquoise blue and most beaches are sandy. The best beaches include the long stretches of Pefkoulia and Kathisma in the north (the latter beach is becoming more developed and there are a few studios for rent here), and remote Egremni and breathtaking Porto Katsiki in the south. You ll pass by local stalls selling olive oil, honey and wine. Word is out about the picturesque town of Agios Nikitas, and people flock to enjoy the holiday village s pleasant if claustrophobic atmosphere, plus the lovely Mylos just around the headland (to walk, take the path by Taverna Poseidon. It s about 15 minutes up and over the peninsula, or for 2 you can take a water taxi from tiny Agios Nikitas beach). The town s accommodation options are plentiful, and include Camping Kathisma (camp sites per person/tent/car 7/5/6), 1.5km south of town. Or try the modest, but very friendly, Greek Canadian-run Olive Tree Hotel (% ; Agios Nikitas; s/d incl breakfast 70/90) ask a local for directions. Hotel Agios Nikitas (% ; Agios Nikitas; d incl breakfast 120, 4-person apt 100; a), a stylish hotel with tasteful rooms and apartments in a secluded complex, is bordered by jasmine and bougainvillea and is on the coastal road just north of the village. For the quintessential fish-by-the-turquoise-sea restaurant experience, don t swim past the terrace at Sapfo (% ; Agios Nikitas; fish per kilo 40-60), Agios Nikitas established fish tavern. It s right on the waterfront. bums can base themselves in the village of Athani in the no-frill rooms of Panorama (% ; d/tr without bathroom 35/50), on top of hospitable Thomas buzzing taverna of the same name. A beer or home-style meal (mains 5 to 9.50) on the taverna terrace are the perfect sunburn cure. Further south near the turn-off to Porto Katsiki is Taverna Oasis (% ; mains ), a sprawling outdoor taverna set within an established pine grove. The taverna also offers free camping for those with campervans and tents. CENTRAL LEFKADA The spectacular central spine of Lefkada, with its traditional farming villages, lush green peaks, fragrant pine trees, olive groves and vines plus occasional views of the islets is well worth seeing if you have time and transport. The small village of Karya is a bit of a tourist haunt but it boasts a stunning square with plane trees, around which are tavernas and snack bars. Karya is famous for its special embroidery, introduced in the 19th century by one-handed local woman, Maria Koutsochero. Visit the museum (admission 2.50; hhrs vary) for an interesting display of embroidery paraphernalia and local artefacts. For food, Taverna Karaboulias (% ; Karya main plaza; mains 6-13) is recommended for its meals, including kokkinisto, a beef, wine and tomato stew. For accommodation options ask British Brenda Sherry at Café Pierros (% ; Karya) who can arrange all (as well as a cup of tea and signature toasted sandwich). The island s highest village, Englouvi, is renowned for its honey and lentil production and is only a few kilometres south of Karya. MEGANISI ΜΕΓΑΝΗΣΙ pop 1090 Meganisi has the largest population of Lefkada s three inhabited satellite islets. The verdant landscape and deep bays of turquoise water, fringed by pebbled beaches, attract yachties and day visitors and, more increasingly, British villa fillers. Try to spend a night; if not, a day trip is obligatory, either independently or on one of the excursion boats from Nydri ( p697 ). Meganisi has three settlements, including quiet and neat Spartohori, with narrow laneways and pretty, bougainvillea-bedecked houses, all perched on a plateau above Porto Spilia (where the ferry docks; follow the steep road or steps behind). Vathy is the island s second attractive harbour, and 800m behind it is the village of Katomeri. Those with more time up their sleeve can visit remote beaches such as Limonari. Helpful Asteria Holidays (% ), at Porto Spilia, is in the know for all things relating to the island, including trips, villas and real estate just in case you get the urge to splurge. Sleeping & Eating Hotel Meganisi (% ; Katomeri; d incl breakfast 100; as) This simple but modern hotel in Katomeri has sunny rooms with balconies and expansive outlooks to the country and sea, as does the generous-sized pool and terrace. its restaurant also comes recommended. Follow the signs once you get to Katomeri. Worthy dining options around the island include Taverna Porto Vathy (% ; mains 7-14), the undisputed favourite fish taverna (fish 30 to 55 per kilo) cast out on a small quay in Vathy; Tropicana (% ), which serves excellent pizzas in Spartohori; or Laki s (% ), your archetypal Greek taverna, also in Spartohori. Getting There & Away The Meganisi ferry boat runs about six times daily between Nydri and Meganisi (per person/car 2/14, 25 to 40 minutes). It calls at Porto Spilia before Vathy (the first ferry of the day stops at Vathy, then Porto Spilia). A local bus runs five to seven times per day between Spartohori and Vathy (via Katomeri) but it s worth bringing your own transport, as there was no island car rental at the time of research. KEFALLONIA ΚΕΦΑΛΛΟΝΙΑ pop 39,500 Kefallonia, the largest of the Ionian Islands, shouldn t be underestimated. It hides secrets and surprises below its rugged, towering mountain range: sprawling vineyards, stunning cliffs and beaches and unclassified Roman ruins. Kefallonia was devastated in the 1953 earthquake, so much of the island s architectural aesthetics are modern. Yet there s plenty for the traveller to discover, including beautiful harbours, walking trails and the local cuisine. Kefallonia s capital is Argostoli, the main port is Sami, and ferry services also run from Fiskardo and Poros. Getting There & Away AIR There are at least two daily flights between Kefallonia and Athens ( 75), and connections to other Ionian Islands, including Zakynthos ( 28) and Corfu ( 35). Olympic Airlines (% ; Rokou Vergoti 1, Argostoli) can help with information and bookings. BUS Four daily buses connect Athens and Kefallonia (via Patra) using the various ferry services (to/from Argostoli, Sami and Poros) to the mainland. All cost around 35 and take about seven hours (prices include ferry tickets). For information contact the KTEL bus IONIAN ISLANDS

358 700 KEFALLONIA Getting There & Away KEFALLONIA Argostoli 701 IONIAN ISLANDS KEFALLONIA & ITHAKI Petani I O N I A N S E A Vilatoria Delaportata Koronatou Kounopetra Cape Atheras Xi Atheras Megas Lakos Kardakata Gulf of Argostoli Lixouri station (% /81; kefaloniakteltours@yahoo.gr; A Tristi 5) on the southern waterfront in Argostoli. The office produces an excellent printed schedule. FERRY Domestic There are frequent ferry services to Kyllini in the Peloponnese from both Poros (per person/ car 8.10/38.10, 1½ hours, two to five daily) and Argostoli (per person 12.50, three hours, one daily). One ferry links Sami with Astakos via Piso Aetos on Ithaki ( 10, three hours). In August there are direct ferries from Sami to Astakos ( 10, 2½ hours) on alternate days. Strintzis Lines ( has two ferries daily connecting Sami with Patra (per Exogi Bay of Polis Kalamos Anogi Vasilikades Mesovounia Kathara Agios Monastery Ioannis Plagia Gulf of Cape Skinos Molos Assos Karya Bay of Gidaki Filiatro Dexa Bay Vathy Cape Sarakiniko Myrtos Alalkomenes Cave of the Gulf of Myrtos Anomeria Nymphs Divarata Piso Perahori Aetos Agonas Dendrinata Ithaki Cape Agiou Fountain of Ioannou Arethousa Nyfi Agia Evfymia Riza Cape Bay of Dihalia Karavomylos Sami Zola Farsa Argostoli Cape Dafnoudi Stavros Ventourata Mazoukata Faraklata Razata Fiskardo Haliotata Ithaki Strait Kefallonia Melissani Cave Dilinata Poulata Drogarati Cave Lakos Sami Lassi Peninsula Frangata Lassi Makrys Moni Agiou Agios Gialos Gerasimou Georgios Troianata Platys Castle Gialos Peratata Karavados Kastro Poriarata Minies Mazarakata Vlahata Metaxata Svoronata Pesada Lourdata Spartia Avythos To Kyllini (25km) To Lefkada (10km) Cape Liakas Lourdata Cape Melissa Frikes To Zakynthos (30km) Kioni Antisamos Digaleto Mt Enos (1627m) Markopoulo 0 10 km 0 6 miles To Lefkada (10km) Pastra Poros Tzanata Kato Katelios Spathi Skala Atokos Cape Mounda To Astakos (20km) To Patra (80km) To Kyllini (25km) person/car 14.50/55, 2½ hours) and Vathy (per person 5.10, one hour) or Piso Aetos (per person/car 2.20/14.50, 30 minutes). Sailing from Fiskardo to/from Frikes (per person/car 3.40/14) takes just under an hour; Fiskardo to/from Vasiliki (per person/ car 6.40/27.50) takes one hour. Information and tickets for these routes can be obtained from Nautilus Travel (% ; Fiskardo), on the waterfront. From the remote port of Pesada in the south there are two daily high-season services to Agios Nikolaos ( 6, 1½ hours), on the northern tip of Zakynthos. Getting to and from both islands ports without your own transport can be difficult (and costly if you rely on taxis). To get to the ferry point in Pesada from Argostoli, you can catch one of two daily buses (in high season only and except Sundays). On Zakynthos, there are two buses per week to and from the port of Agios Nikolaos to Zante Town (via villages). International In high season there are regular ferries between Sami, Igoumenitsa, and Brindisi in Italy (Kefallonia Brindisi including taxes 70, 14 hours). To get to other ports in Italy, take the ferry first from Sami to Patra. Tickets and information can be obtained from Vassilatos Shipping (% ; Antoni Tristi 54, Argostoli), opposite the port authority, and from Blue Sea Travel (% ; Sami), on Sami s waterfront. Getting Around TO/FROM THE AIRPORT The airport is 9km south of Argostoli. There isn t an airport bus service; a taxi costs around 15. BUS From Argostoli s bus station (% , ) on the southern waterfront there are 11 buses daily heading to the Lassi Peninsula ( 1), with four buses to Sami ( 2.50), two to Poros ( 4.50), two to Skala ( 4.50) and two to Fiskardo ( 5). There s a daily east-coast service linking Katelios with Skala, Poros, Sami, Agia Evfymia and Fiskardo. No buses operate on Sunday. CAR & MOTORCYCLE The major resorts have loads of car- and bike-rental companies. Lassi, a 20-minute walk up the hill from Argostoli, has the best choices around including Avis/Liberatos (% ; Lassi), which is also based at the airport. Greekstones Rent a Car (% ; has a good reputation and will deliver to you within a 15km radius of Svoronata (7km from Argostoli, near the airport). FERRY Car ferries run hourly (more frequently in high season) from 7.30am to 10.30pm between Argostoli and Lixouri, on the island s western peninsula. The journey takes 30 minutes, and tickets cost 1.60/4/1 per person/car/motorbike. ARGOSTOLI ΑΡΓΟΣΤΟΛΙ pop 8900 Argostoli was not rebuilt to its former Venetian splendour after the 1953 earthquake, but it s an attractive and lively place with a pleasant, authentic Greek feel. It offers plentiful sleeping and eating options, plus shopping and nightlife. The whole town seems to gather in the evenings in the central plaza. Orientation & Information The main ferry quay is at the waterfront s northern end, and the bus station is on the southern waterfront. The centre of Argostoli s social and culinary activity is Valianou, the large palm-treed central square up from the waterfront off 21 Maïou, and its nearby surrounds. Other hubs are pedestrianised Lithostrotou, lined with smart shops, and the waterfront (Antoni Tristi, sections of which were formerly known as Ioannou Metaxa). The EOT (Greek National Tourist Organisation; % ; h8am-2.30pm Mon-Fri) is on the northern waterfront beside the port police. There are banks with ATMs along the northern waterfront and on Lithostrotou. The post office is on Lithostrotou, and internet is available at Excelixis (cnr Minoos & Asklipiou; per hr 4). Sights & Activities The Korgialenio History & Folklore Museum (% ; Ilia Zervou 12; admission 4; h9am- 2pm Mon-Sat) and Focas-Kosmetatos Foundation (% ; Vallianou; admission 3; h9.30am- 1pm & 7-10pm Mon-Sat) provide interesting insights into Argostoli s cultural history the former more general, the latter delving into the world of the nobility. The town s Archaeological Museum (% ; Rokou Vergoti; admission 3; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) has a collection of well displayed and labelled island relics, including Mycenaean finds. The one-room Divisione Acqui Museum (% ; Lithostratou; admission free; hhrs vary), to the left of the Catholic church, details the disturbing history of the Italian Acqui Division during their occupation of Kefallonia (and of their slaughter by the Germans). Six kilometres from Argostoli in Davgata is the Museum of Natural History (% ; admission 2.50; h9am-3pm), with fascinating exhibits on the geological and natural phenomena of the island, and an excellent topographical model of the island in relief. IONIAN ISLANDS

359 702 KEFALLONIA Argostoli Book accommodation online at KEFALLONIA Sami & Surrounds 703 IONIAN ISLANDS ARGOSTOLI Ioannis Tsigante Pan Harokopou Deladetsima 19 Lamprou Tsavela 11 Gerasimou Livada To Argostoli Camping (2km); Lassi Peninsula via Coast Road (5km) The town s closest and largest sandy beaches are Makrys Gialos and Platys Gialos, 5km south. Regular buses serve the area. Lourdata, 16km from Argostoli on the Argostoli Poros road, has an attractive long beach set against a mountainous green backdrop. Those wanting more physical exertion should contact Monte Nero Activities (% , ; Staff organise environmentally friendly sea kayaking (day tours 55 with lunch and snorkelling gear), cycling and hiking tours in the island s coastal regions. Tours KTEL (% /22281; kefaloniakteltours@yahoo.gr; tours 15-35) runs excellent-value day tours of Rizospaston 8 9 Children's Park Napier Gardens Lassis To Lassi Peninsula (4km); Svoronata (7km); Airport (9km) Mompheratou Rokou Vergoti Valianou Kalypsous Vergoti Llia Zervou DRINKING Kafeneio Platanos B2 Le Sapin Noir B2 ENTERTAINMENT Cine Anny A2 TRANSPORT Ferries to Kyllini B1 Ferries to Lixouri B1 KTEL Bus Station D4 Olympic Airlines B2 Vassilatos Shipping B2 To Kiani Akti (100m) Vallianou 5 Vyronos El Venizelou Souidias 10 M Geroulanou 18 Germanou Kalliga Maïou Panagi Vergoti 2 Antoni Tristi 6 Georgiou Vergoti 20 1 Mi noos 4 3 Andrea Hoida Lithostrotou Argostoli Bay 12 Andreou Metaxa 16 Antoni Tristi Sitemboron Diadohou Konstantinou To Makrys Gialos (5km); Platys Gialos (5km); Museum of Natural History (6km); Hersona's Taverna (8km); Troianata (8km); Lourdata (16km); Sami (25km); Skala (40km); Poros (43km); Fiskardo (50km) m miles INFORMATION EOT... 1 B1 Excelixis... 2 B3 Port Police... 3 C2 Post Office... 4 B3 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Archaeological Museum... 5 B2 Divisione Acqui Museum... 6 B3 Focas-Kosmetatos Foundation... 7 B2 Korgialenio History & Folklore Museum... 8 B3 SLEEPING Hotel Ionian Plaza... 9 B2 Kyknos Studios B1 Vivian Villa A1 EATING Givras Brothers C3 Grill House B2 Patsouras B1 Premier B2 Produce Market C3 Causeway (currently closed) Kefallonia, visiting several towns and villages around the island (including a folkloric tour to monasteries). It also takes tours to other islands (Ithaki and Zakynthos). Bookings can be made at the KTEL bus station building. Sleeping A string of shampoo-and-sewing-kit-style hotels line the waterfront and Valianou, with prices to suit most budgets. KTEL Tours (% ; kefaloniakteltours@yahoo.gr) has a selection of apartments and hotel options available and will organise these via . Argostoli Camping (% ; camp sites per adult/car/tent 7.50/3.50/4) This pleasant camping spot is away from the 22 Panagi Plessa Koutavos Lagoon humdrum, near the lighthouse on the northernmost point of the peninsula. Kyknos Studios (% ; P-Krousos@otenet.gr; M Geroulanou 4; d 50) An historic well sits in front of these seven bright, if a little faded, studios, each with small veranda. But you don t need to dig too deep to enjoy the surrounds and attractive, well-kept garden. Vivian Villa (% ; villa.gr; Deladetsima 9; r/studio/apt 60/70/130; a) Highly recommended for its squeaky-clean bright rooms and bubbly owners. There are even tea-making facilities in each room, and prices are discounted for longer stays. Hotel Ionian Plaza (% ; plaza.gr; Valianou; s/d/tr 82/119/155; a) Argostoli s smartest hotel has a marble-decorated lobby, stylish public areas and well-appointed rooms with balconies. Prices can be significantly reduced outside high season, as can (some of) the plaza noise, thanks to the window s double-glazing. Eating Grill House (gyros 2) This popular and cheap place is found among the pricey cafés on Valianou, next to Hotel Aeon. Givras Brothers (% ; Vasili Vandorou 1; mains 4-7) One of Argostoli s most traditional family-run restaurants and favourite old haunt of locals. Basic rooms (double with bathroom 30) can be found upstairs. Patsuras (% ; Antoni Tristi 32; mains 5-10) A great range of authentic dishes from which to choose. Locals think it s good value, and so should you. Kiani Akti (% ; mains 8-13) Posh and for those with dosh. This seafood restaurant serves top quality fish ( 60 to 80 per kilo) in a nautical environment. It s located on the Argostoli quay opposite the merchant marine academy. The razor clams are sourced from secret locations by an Italian diver. Premier (% ; Valianou) The premier place to be seen, especially for mature locals with a bit of spare cash and a penchant for sweets and gelati that truly are numero uno. Eight kilometres southeast from Argostoli, in the village of Troianata, Hersona s Taverna (% ; mains 3-9) is a carnivore s dream. Fresh carcasses hang on display in the kitchen, a kitchen that produces superlative meaty delights. You can pick up a range of self-catering supplies from the waterfront produce market and from bakeries and supermarkets nearby. Drinking Valianou is a barfly s delight, with both crowds and music upbeat until late. Cool cats chill at Le Sapin Noir or Kafeneio Platanos. Entertainment The outdoor cinema Cine Anny (% ; Pan Harokopou 54; admission 8) shows films between June and August. SAMI & SURROUNDS ΣΑΜΗ pop 2200 Sami, 25km northeast of Argostoli and the main port of Kefallonia, was also flattened by the 1953 earthquake. Its exposed long strip is made up of tourist-oriented cafés, but beyond this it s an attractive place, nestled in a bay and flanked by steep hills. It promotes itself as the gateway to Kefallonia. Indeed, it provides an enjoyable introduction or stopover; it has several monasteries, ancient castle ruins, caves, walks and nearby beaches that reflect the region s ancient and rich history. All facilities, including a post office and banks, are in town. Buses for Argostoli usually meet ferries, and car hire is available through Karavomilos (% ). Sami s tourist office (h9am-8pm May-Oct) is at the northern end of town. An informative website is Sights & Activities The Municipality of Sami has published a simple brochure called Walking Trail, which outlines wonderful walks through the local area. Trails encompass the acropolis of ancient Sami (around 500 BC), Roman ruins and churches, plus nature: pine forests, olive groves, streams and beaches. The brochures are available from the tourist office. Don t miss Antisamos, 4km northeast of Sami. The long, stony beach is in a lovely green setting backed by hills. The drive here is also a highlight, offering dramatic views from cliff edges. The rather overrated Melissani Cave (admission incl boat trip 5; h8am-8pm), a subterranean sea-water lake that turns an extraordinary blue, is only worth visiting when the sun is overhead between noon and 2pm. It s 2.5km west of Sami. The extraordinary Drogarati Cave (% ; admission 3.50; h8am-8pm) is a massive (natural) chamber with stalactites. IONIAN ISLANDS

360 704 KEFALLONIA Assos Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at ITHAKI Getting There & Away 705 IONIAN ISLANDS But be aware that tourism is taking its toll hot lights, bodies and seasonal concerts within the area are increasing the temperatures in this two-million-year-old cave (stalactites grow at the rate of 1cm every 100 to 150 years), causing a speedy and ultimately detrimental meltdown. Sleeping Karavomilos Camping (% ; camp sites per adult/car/tent 7.50/3.50/5.50; i) A large, green, awardwinning camping ground in a glorious beachfront location, with all the facilities zipped up, too. Hotel Melissani (% ; d/tr 65/75) Sixties-cum- 70s, hip, hop and happenin. Although built in the early 80s, a Maxwell Smart/Austin Powers morph would feel at home here, especially in the bar an eclectic décor of swivelling vinyl bar stools, retro lights, marble floors and groovy tiles. Smallish rooms with balconies have good views of mountains or sea. Hotel Kastro (% ; s/d/tr 67/96/115) If Hotel Melissani is full, try this place in the town centre, but expect it to be your average modern(ish) hotel experience. Eating Dining out in Sami tends to be a repetitive experience, with little to distinguish the menus or settings of the restaurants that line the waterfront. If you have your own wheels, you re better off following your tummy rumbles in the direction of village tavernas, or heading west to the tranquil Agia Evfymia. Rombolis (% ; Poulata; hdinner) This is very much a local joint the owner raises an animal herd for his eatery. While vegetarians might not appreciate the wholesome-beaston-a-spit experience, this place is not to be missed by those who can gratefully stomach generous fillings and Greek hospitality. Located 5km from Sami, in Poulata village opposite the church. Paradise (% ; mains , fish per kg 48-52; Agia Evfymia) Stavros, the charismatic owner of this place, is sentimental about serving Penelope Cruz and cast when they were on the island filming Captain Corelli s Mandolin. The movie cast may be long gone from the island, but his delicious dishes live on. Try the chocolate soufflé ( 8.50). The location has a star-studded view of the natural kind. ASSOS ΑΣΟΣ Tiny Assos is an upmarket gem of whitewashed and pastel houses, straddling the isthmus of a peninsula on which stands a Venetian fortress. The fortress is a pleasant place to hike to and around, with superlative views and a great historical ambience. For accommodation, try the Pension Gerania (% ; d inc breakfast 80; a). True to its name, geraniums are the feature of this lush, shady garden, and the light and appealing rooms afford pleasant views. Follow the pension (and parking) sign as you enter town. Cosi s Inn (% , ; 2-/3-person studio 100/115; a) is not typically Greek but has the marks of the young and hip interior designer owner: iron beds and sofas, frosted lights and white décor feature strongly. Another favourite for quality and views is Linardos Studios (% ; d 80, 4-person apt 95). For eating, Platanos (% ; mains 6-13) is in an attractive shady setting near the waterfront. It has good vegetarian choices and even better meaty ones, including roast suckling pig. AROUND ASSOS One of Greece s most breathtaking and picture-perfect beaches is Myrtos, 8km south of Assos along the hair-raising stretch of road that goes north to Fiskardo. From the safety of a designated viewing area, you can admire and photograph the white sand and exquisite blue water set between tall limestone cliffs. The beach has minimal facilities just a basic taverna and sunbed hire. Be aware that the beach drops off quickly and sharply, but once you are in the water it s a heavenly experience. Think clichéd turquoise and aqua water. FISKARDO ΦΙΣΚΑΡΔΟ pop 225 Fiskardo, 50km north of Argostoli, was the only Kefallonian village not devastated by the 1953 earthquake. Framed by cypress-mantled hills and with fine Venetian buildings, it has a delightful, if slightly sanitised, Disneyland-style feel. It s a favourite port-o -call for yachties with attitude. Recently, ancient ruins have been uncovered in the village. Prices in Fiskardo are as high as a mainsail. Pama Travel (% ; on the harbour front can help with travel services including car and boat hire, plus it has internet access (per hour 4). The Fiskardo Nautical and Environmental Club (% ; h10am-2pm, pm Mon-Sat May-Oct) is an excellent not-for-profit organisation that runs a small local museum and environmental information centre (up the stairs next to the church). It also takes scuba diving and runs dolphin-, turtle- and monk seal spotting research activities. Volunteers are welcome for short- or long-term projects. Sleeping & Eating Regina s Rooms (% ; d/r 50/70) Friendly Regina runs a popular place that has colourful rooms dotted with plastic flowers. Some rooms have kitchenettes and/or balconies enjoying views over the water. Enter from the main car park. Stella Apartments (% ; -apartments.gr; d 90, apt 190; a) This Greek version of Fawlty Towers in that it resembles an English-style guesthouse has immaculate, spacious studios with kitchen, TV, phone, air-con and balcony, and a communal dining area. It s about 800m from the main car park. Faros Suites (% ; ste ; as) For your fluffy bathrobe type experience, head to these apartments, where Out of Africa comes to Greece. With a luxury safari lodge feel (teak furniture and cotton linens) in a local setting (turquoise water views and bougainvillea), plus the hospitality of the Greek South African owners, you ll have trouble moving from the tasteful rooms, relaxation areas, or swimming pool. Café Tseleniti (% ; mains ) Housed in a 19th-century building that survived the 1953 earthquake, the international dishes here are sublime, as is the romantic outdoor setting, which features spotlighted brollies. Inside, be sure to view the fresco on the side wall, drawn by some wishful Greek patriots. Also recommended: Villa Romantza (% ; r/studio 50/70, apt ; a) An excellent budget choice with simple and clean rooms. It s found next door to Regina s rooms on the car park. Cheaper out of season. Emelisse Hotel (% ; r/ste from 245/285; as) Chic and luxurious (plus, we found, a little standoffish and snobby), this is the place for those who want the lot. Uta & Toni s (% ; utarose2@yahoo.gr; per week studio/apt/cottage 350/400/580) Regular guests may be miffed that the word s finally out. This old restored whitewashed Greek farmhouse with a selection of rooms provides isolation in a stunning setting. Not to mention the owners personality on tap. Getting There & Away You can get to/from Fiskardo by ferry to/from Lefkada and Ithaki or by bus to/from Argostoli. The ferry is at one end of the waterfront; ask the bus to drop you at the turn-off, or it s a 10-minute walk from the car park to the ferry. ITHAKI ΙΘΑΚΗ pop 3700 Diminutive Ithaki is the diamond of the Ionians. It is believed to be the mythical home of Homer s Odysseus, where his loyal wife Penelope patiently awaited his homecoming. This tranquil island is two large peninsulas joined by a narrow isthmus with sheer cliffs, precipitous mountainous passages and pockets of cypresses and olive groves. Nestled around this compact gem are beautiful fishing hamlets (tastefully rebuilt after the 1953 earthquake) and discreet pebbly coves. Monasteries and churches offer Byzantine delights and splendid views. The locals here are rightfully proud of their island. Getting There & Away Strintzis Lines ( has two ferries daily connecting Vathy or Piso Aetos with Patra (per person/car 14.50/55, four hours), via Sami on Kefallonia (per person 5.10 to/from Vathy, one hour, or to/from Piso Aetos 2.20, 30 minutes). Ionian Pelagosruns a daily ferry (sometimes twice a day) in high season between Piso Aetos, Sami and Astakos on the mainland (per person/car 8/33, 2½ hours direct from Piso Aetos to Astakos, three hours from Astakos to Piso Aetos via Sami). Other ferries run to ever-changing schedules from Vasiliki and Nydri (Lefkada) to Frikes (Ithaki) and Fiskardo (Kefallonia). The Frikes Fiskardo trip takes just under an hour (per person/car 3.40/14) and Nydri Frikes IONIAN ISLANDS

361 706 ITHAKI Vathy Book accommodation online at Book accommodation online at ITHAKI Around Ithaki 707 IONIAN ISLANDS takes 1½ hours ( 5.30/26.50). Frikes Vasiliki goes via Fiskardo and takes two hours. Information and tickets for these routes can be obtained from Delas Tours ( right ) on the main square in Vathy. Getting Around Piso Aetos, on Ithaki s west coast, has no settlement; taxis often meet boats, as does the municipal bus in high season only. The island s one bus runs twice daily (weekdays only, more often in high season) between Kioni and Vathy via Stavros and Frikes ( 3.50), and its limited schedule is not well suited to day-trippers. Taxis are relatively expensive (about 25 for the Vathy Frikes trip), so your best bet is to hire a moped or car (or a motorboat) to get around. In Vathy, Rent a Scooter (% ) is down the laneway opposite the port authority. For cars, try Happy Cars contact Polyctor Tours ( right ) or Alpha Bike & Car Hire (% ) behind Alpha Bank. VATHY ΒΑΘΥ pop 1820 Ithaki s pretty main town sprawls along its elongated seafront. Compact museums are situated in its twisting streets, while cafés and restaurants line the attractive central square, the centre s social hub. The ferry quay is on the western side of the bay. To reach the central square ( Efstathiou Drakouli), turn left and follow the waterfront. ODYSSEUS & ITHAKI Ithaki has no tourist office. Helpful Stavros at Delas Tours (% ; and business-focused Polyctor Tours (% ; both on the main square, can help with tourist information. The main square also has banks with ATMs; the post office; and internet access try Net (per hr 4). Sights & Activities Behind Hotel Mentor is an excellent archaeological museum (% ; admission free; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun). Of note are ancient coins depicting Odysseus. The informative nautical & folklore museum (admission 1; h10am-2pm & 5-9pm Tue-Sat) is housed in an old generating station one block behind the plaza. The interesting displays include traditional clothing, household items and shipping paraphernalia. Boat excursions leave from Vathy harbour in the summer months and include day trips around Ithaki and to Fiskardo ( 30); Lefkada ( 35); and unknown islands that include Atokos and Kalamos ( 35). There s also a water taxi to Gidaki. Note: the only way to access this beach on foot is to follow the walking track from Skinari. Sleeping Grivas Gerasimos Rooms (% ; d/tr 70/84) Pot plants, small balconies and a seaside vista are all pleasant features of this spacious studio budget option. Turn right at the Century Club on the waterfront and first left at the road parallel to the sea. The studios are 50m on Ithaki has long been identified as the home of the mythical hero Odysseus (Ulysses); it was the island home he left so that he could fight in the Trojan War. According to Homer s The Iliad, and more specifically The Odyssey, the hero Odysseus took 10 long years to return home to Ithaki from Troy on the Asia Minor coast. Odysseus survived tempestuous seas, sea monsters and a cunning siren, until finally he was helped by friendly Phaeacians and was returned to Ithaki. Here, disguised as a beggar, he along with his son Telemachus and his old swineherd Eumaeus slayed the conniving suitors who d been trying to woo Penelope, Odysseus long-suffering wife who d waited 20 years for him to return. No mention of Ithaki appears in writings of the Middle Ages. As late as 1504, the island was almost uninhabited following repeated depredations by pirates, so the Venetians convinced settlers from neighbouring islands to repopulate it. Yet as enthusiasts point out the island appears to be described in The Odyssey; it matches in many respects the physical nature of the island today. These sites include the Fountain of Arethousa and the Cave of the Nymphs (currently closed under controversial circumstances). However, many Homerists have been hard-pressed to ascribe other locales described in The Odyssey particularly Odysseus castle to actual places on the islands, because of scant archaeological remains. your right. Prices are negotiable depending on your length of stay. Odyssey Apartments (% ; -odyssey.com; apt ; as) It seems a bit of an odyssey to get here 1.5km east of town but those with a car or strong legs should consider this excellent option. There are light, breezy studios and apartments with balconies, and a magical view of the yacht harbour and beyond. Hotel Perantzada (% ; Odissea Androutsou; d , ste ; ais) Part of the Emelisse chain, this upmarket boutique hotel gets full marks for originality. Each room in this light-blue, neoclassical building (designed by 19th-century German architect Ernst Schiller) has been individually decorated with Italian-style flair and fabrics, including contemporary nautical and botanic themes. At the time of research the hotel was expanding; an adjoining building was being renovated, complete with breakfast area and infinity pool. Eating & Drinking Eating at the restaurants along the western waterfront is a Groundhog Day experience; identical menus in similar settings on the same patch. Distinct culinary sensations can be found within a 1km radius of the centre. For a sweet experience, try rovani, the local speciality made with rice, honey and cloves, at one of the patisseries on or near the main square. Café Karamela (% ; snacks 2-6) The western quay is home to this welcoming place, where a massive window literally frames the bay view. Linger with the locals over the café s board games, books and TV, plus home-made snacks such as cake and pastries. Drosia (% ; mains 6-15) Ask a Vathy local where to eat, and the response is overwhelmingly consistent. This authentic taverna serves good hearty food at reasonable prices. The grilled meat includes chicken skewers ( 6.50) and lamb chops ( 8.50). You might catch the patrons spontaneously dancing to a bouzouki-playing friend. It s 1km up the hill on the road to Filiatro. Also recommended: Para thin alos (% ; snacks 7) A great bar serving French wines plus delicious light meals with an international twist. The owner-chef has savoir-faire. Gregory s Taverna/Paliocaravo (% ; mains 7-19) This longstanding family concern serves fish and tasty specialities to yachties and gourmands. It s 1km east of town on the waterfront. Piccolo (% ; meals 7-10) Head here for an Asian fix. It s nestled in behind the main square. AROUND ITHAKI Ithaki proudly claims several sites associated with Homer s tale, The Odyssey (see boxed text, opposite ). Finding the hyped-up locations can be an epic journey signage is a bit scant. Many seem to be myths themselves, so vague are their locations, but there s no questioning the spirit of this island. The Fountain of Arethousa, in the island s south, is where Odysseus swineherd, Eumaeus, is believed to have brought his pigs to drink. The exposed and isolated hike through unspoilt landscape with great sea views takes 1½ to two hours (return) from the turn-off; this excludes the hilly 5km trudge up the road to the sign itself. Take a hat and water. The Bay of Dexa, 1km west of Vathy, is thought to be ancient Phorkys, where the Phaeacians safely delivered Odysseus home. (Note: despite the sign, Cave of the Nymphs is closed and unsafe to visit). The location of Odysseus palace has been much disputed and archaeologists have been unable to find conclusive evidence; some present-day archaeologists speculate it was on Pelikata Hill near Stavros, while German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann ( p31 ) believed it to be at Alalkomenes, near Piso Aetos. Also in Stavros visit the small archaeological museum (% ; admission free; h9am-2.30pm Tue-Sun), where minder Fotini Couvaras is almost an exhibit herself, so committed is she to this site. To move away from Homeric myths, head 14km north of Vathy to sleepy Anogi, the old capital. Its restored church of Agia Panagia (claimed to be from the 12th century) has incredible Byzantine frescoes and a Venetian bell tower. You can obtain the keys from Nikos, at the neighbouring kafeneio. The tiny, understated village of Frikes is set in among windswept cliffs. It has several good accommodation options and waterfront restaurants, a popular bar and a relaxed ambience. It s the ferry departure point for Lefkada. Sleeping & Eating Mrs Vasilopoulos Rooms (% ; Stavros; d/apt 50/70) These homely studios are in a lane IONIAN ISLANDS

362 708 ZAKYNTHOS Getting There & Away ZAKYNTHOS Getting There & Away 709 IONIAN ISLANDS HOT HIKES IN ITHAKI Walking is a great way to explore Ithaki and Homeric sites, and keen ramblers will not be disappointed. Ithaki s compact size allows walkers to experience dramatic scenery changes in relatively short walks, including 360-degree views of the ocean and surrounding islands. Thanks to the single-handed efforts of islander Denis Skinari and his band of helpers, around 10 cleared and marked trails exist around island. These include Kalamos to Exogi, Exogi to Stavros, Anogi to Kathara Monastery (Moni Katharon), and Aetos to Alalkomenae Castle. Mr Skinari has prepared brief notes and maps; if they are not available at the Town Hall, ring him direct on % Wear sturdy footwear, cover up against strong sun (as well as prickly bushes) and take plenty of water. ZAKYNTHOS Shipwreck Volimes Lookout Excursion Boat To Kefallonia (10km) Agios Nikolaos Skinaria Cape Skinari Lighthouse Blue Caves Korithi Makris Gialos Xiga I O N I A N S E A 0 4 km 0 2 miles IONIAN ISLANDS diagonally off to the right-hand side of Soris Ways Café on the square, below the owner s house. The pretty garden overlooks olive and cypress groves. A great base from which to explore and visit the nearby Bay of Polis. Fatouros Taverna (% ; Stavros; mains 5-12) The faux-brick exterior of the building hides a homely interior and popular eatery; at the entrance there s a spit for roasting delicious meats. Not surprisingly, the house specialities include lamb on the spit ( 7.50) and eggplant rolls ( 5). Kioni Κιόνι Kioni is a small village draped around a verdant hillside and spilling down to a miniature harbour where yachties congregate. Lining the quay are tavernas, a bar or two and flowercovered buildings (some of the houses survived the 1953 earthquake). Swimmers can access a small beach at the cove s far-eastern end, or the bays between Kioni and Frikes. Mrs Karatzis Rooms (% ; studio 50) Despite the white buildings distinctive cherryred shutters, you ll see blue before you the sea, the beautiful sea view from the balcony of these simple but pleasant studio rooms is stupendous. Situated on the hill-peak on the approach into Kioni, behind the village itself. Captain s Apartments (% ; tains-apartments.gr; d 65, 4-person apt 90) The Captain s studios and apartments are worth berthing at. Each well-maintained room is shipshape, with satellite TV and terrace or balcony. Good navigational signs show you the way. Several tavernas are lined up like yachts along the harbour each claims to serve better food than at the others, but in reality, most serve the same reasonable meals at the same reasonable(ish) prices (mains 7 to 13). ZAKYNTHOS ΖΑΚΥΝΘΟΣ pop 38,600 Zakynthos (zahk-in-thos), also known as Zante, has a split personality. Its geography is mountainous and rocky in the west, with a fertile plain in the east. While the island s west remains largely unspoiled, its eastern coastal areas are the victim of the worst manifestations of package tourism. Tourism is also endangering the loggerhead turtle (see boxed text, p712 ). Yet the island has inspired many other descriptions. The Venetians called it Flower of the Orient; the poet Dionysios Solomos wrote that Zakynthos could make one forget the Elysian Fields. Indeed, on the whole, Zakynthos has exceptional natural beauty, welcoming locals and great cuisine. To enjoy a relaxing holiday here avoid high season, especially in resorts such as Laganas. Getting There & Away AIR There are at least one or two daily flights between Zakynthos and Athens ( 76), and connections to other Ionian Islands including Kefallonia ( 32) and Corfu ( 51). Olympic Airlines (% /28322; Zakynthos Airport; %8am-10pm Mon-Fri) can help with information and bookings. BUS KTEL (% ; Filita 42, Zakynthos Town) operates four buses daily between Zakynthos Town and Patra ( 5.20, 3½ hours), and four daily connections to/from Athens ( 22.10, six hours) via Corinth Canal ( 15.80, five hours). There s also a twice-weekly service to Thessaloniki ( 42.20). Budget an additional 6.50 for the ferry fare between Zakynthos and Kyllini. Porto Vromi Anafonitria Maries Kambi Limnionas Exo Hora Alikes Katastari Gyri Louka Agios Leon Kiliomeno Zakynthos Alikanas FERRY Domestic Depending on the season, between five and seven ferries operate daily between Zakynthos Town and Kyllini in the Peloponnese (per person/car 6.50/31.50, 1¼ hours). Tickets can be obtained from the Zakynthos Shipping Cooperative (% /49500; Lombardou 40) in Zakynthos Town. From the northern port of Agios Nikolaos a ferry service shuttles across to Pesada in southern Kefallonia twice daily from May to October ( 6, 1½hours). In high season, there are two daily buses from Pesada to Argostoli (Kefallonia), and two per week to Agios Nikolaos, making crossing without your own transport difficult. An alternative Gerakari Pachis Ammos Katragaki Maherado Damianos Cave Lookout Lithakia Keri Cape Keri Limni Keriou Lighthouse Amboula Planos Keri Tsilivi Bochali Airport Kalamaki Laganas Marithi Cave Bouka Laganas Zakynthos Town Argasi Bay of Laganas Marathonisi Islet Cape Kryoneri Kalamaki likos Kaminia Porto Zoro Peninsula Vasilikos Zakynthos Strait Gerakas To Kyllini (20km) Agios Nikolaos Porto Roma Mavratzis is to cross to Kyllini and catch another ferry to Kefallonia. International Hellenic Mediterranean Lines ( has July and August services once or twice a week between Brindisi and Zakynthos (one way 69 to 82, about 18 hours). Getting Around There s no bus service between Zakynthos Town and the airport, 6km to the southwest. A taxi costs around 10. Frequent buses go from Zakynthos Town s bus station (% ; Filita 42), one block back from the waterfront, to the developed resorts of Alikes ( 1.50), Tsilivi, Argasi, Laganas and Kalamaki Vasi Banana Cape Gerakas

363 Dionysiou 710 ZAKYNTHOS Zakynthos Town Book accommodation online at ZAKYNTHOS Zakynthos Town 711 IONIAN ISLANDS (all 1.20). Bus services to other villages are infrequent. Several useful local buses take the upper or lower main roads to Katastari and Volimes. Ask at the bus station. Car- and moped-rental places are plentiful in the larger resorts. Zakynthos Town is also well serviced. The best option is Hire- Auto (% ; Lombardou 92), run through BesTour. Other reliable companies include Europcar (% ; Agiou Louka), which also has a branch at the airport (% ), and Hertz (% ; Lombardou 38). ZAKYNTHOS TOWN ZAKYNTHOS TOWN To Kastro & A Bochali (2.5km) B Agiou Louka Agiou Louka pop 11,200 Zakynthos Town is the capital and port of the island. The town was devastated by the 1953 Agiou Spyridonos Koutouzi Kokkini Alexandrou Roma Martinegou Logotheton To Airport (6km) Argassari Liri Tzoulati Tertseti Filioti Merkati Therianou Foskolou Alexandrou Roma Xenou Lutzi Stefanou Agiou Eleftheriou Filikon Filita Koliva Matzarou Lombardou earthquake, but was reconstructed to its former layout with arcaded streets, imposing squares and gracious neoclassical public buildings. A Venetian fortress on a hill provides an attractive backdrop to the town. Despite its strung-out feel, Zakynthos Town features a semblance of Greekness, when compared with many of the overtouristed parts of the island. The northern area (around Agiou Markou) is of most interest to visitors, with hotels, restaurants and museums clustered around here. Orientation & Information Solomou is on the northern waterfront of Lombardou, opposite the ferry quay. Agiou Markou is behind it. The bus station is on Filita, one block back from the waterfront To Hotel Palatino (10m) Leonida Makri Zoi Karvela Eleftheriou To Church of Dionysios (200m); Ecclesiastical Museum (200m); Ferry to Kyllini (300m) Dimokratias L Ziva Kapodistriou Agiou Markou 12 Venizelou 8 5 Solomou To Arekia (1km) Roma Church of Agios Nikolaos C Quay m miles D INFORMATION BesTour... 1 B4 Connect Internet... 2 B4 Post Office... 3 B3 Tourist Police... 4 B3 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Byzantine Museum... 5 C2 Museum of Solomos... 6 B1 SLEEPING Athina Apartments... 7 B4 Hotel Alba... 8 C1 Hotel Diana... 9 B1 Hotel Strada Marina B2 EATING Supermarket B3 DRINKING Base B1 Zakynthos Strait TRANSPORT Bus Station B3 Europcar B4 Hertz B3 HireAuto...(see 1) Zakynthos Shipping Cooperative B3 and south of the quay. The main thoroughfare is Alexandrou Roma, running several blocks inland, parallel to the waterfront. Zakynthos Town has no tourist office. The tourist police (% ; Lombardou 62) has dated brochures for visitors if the room is open, that is. Your best bet is to head to the nothing s-a-problem, professional staff at BesTour (% ; cnr Lombardou & Logotheton), who can answer queries and arrange accommodation and trips. There are banks with ATMs along Lombardou and just west of Solomou. The post office (Tertseti 27; h7am-2pm) is one block west of Alexandrou Roma. Connect Internet (Lombardou 84; per hr 3; h9am-1am) offers good internet access. Sights & Activities The Byzantine museum (% ; Solomou; admission 3; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) houses two levels of fabulous ecclesiastical art, rescued from churches razed in the earthquake. It s all displayed in a beautiful setting overlooking the main plaza. Within, the St Andreas Monastery has been artfully replicated to house its restored frescoes. The nearby Museum of Solomos (% ; Agiou Markou; admission 3; h9am-2pm) is dedicated to Dionysios Solomos ( ), who was born on Zakynthos and is regarded as the father of modern Greek poetry. His work Hymn to Liberty became the stirring Greek national anthem. The museum houses his memorabilia and archives. The peaceful, shady and pine tree filled kastro (% ; admission 3; h8.30am-6pm), a ruined Venetian fortress high above Zakynthos Town, makes a pleasant visit. It s 2.5km from town in the quaint village of Bochali (take Dionysiou Roma north and turn left at Kapodistriou; it s signed from here). Enjoy the bird s-eye view with an ice cream, or dine at one of Bochali s well-sited restaurants. The Church of Dionysios, the patron saint of the island, in Zakynthos Town s south has some amazing gilt work and notable frescoes. Behind the church is an ecclesiastical museum (admission 2; h9am-1pm & 5-9pm). It contains intriguing icons from the Monastery of Strofades, home to Dionysios, plus speech scrolls from the 13th and 14th centuries and a 12th-century book in Ancient Greek. Sleeping The newest sleeping options are netted by tour groups, but the following are safe bets for independent travellers. Hotel Alba (% ; L Ziva 38; s/d/tr incl breakfast 60/70/116; a) This friendly place, with a slightly old-fashioned feel, is a good budget option (the prices are slashed outside August). The views are a bit wireridden, but it s clean and adequate. EXPLORING WITH YOUR TASTE BUDS Gourmands may be surprised to know that Zakynthos boasts some excellent local cuisine, and any small village taverna serves a fine meal. Searching for the hidden eateries is a great way of discovering the island. Many are nondescript from the outside, but serve high-quality, delectable food to a mainly local clientele. Others are lovely for their location, in tiny villages or high above clifftops. Following are some popular places to get you exploring. Dennis Taverna (% ; mains 6-12; Lithakia; hlunch & dinner) Meat-lovers mustn t miss this busy place, renowned for its quality meat cuts and grills. Half-serves might be adequate for a non-greek the servings are brontosaurus-size (there s even a kid s menu). To Litrouvio (% ; mains ; Lithakia; hlunch & dinner) You ll be impressed by this attractive option, which is built around an olive oil stone presser and features related oddments. It s a more touristy, yet extremely appealing, experience with out-of-this-world local fare. Go with an appetite; servings are plentiful. Louha s Coffee Shop (% ; mains 4-7; Louka; hlunch & dinner) The type of place even a guidebook writer wants to keep secret: this is one of the most genuine experiences around. You sit in the host family s garden, enjoying their local specialities. This gem is hidden in the village, opposite the church. Ask here about the monastery walk. To Pelagaki (% ; Xiga; h breakfast, lunch & dinner) Situated on a sharp bend just before the odorous Xiga (the waters have sulphuric properties, popular for health reasons), this serves basic, and OK, fare in a glorious cliff-top setting. IONIAN ISLANDS

364 712 ZAKYNTHOS Zakynthos Town Book accommodation online at ZAKYNTHOS Around Zakynthos 713 IONIAN ISLANDS AT LOGGERHEADS The Ionian Islands are home to the Mediterranean s loggerhead turtle (Caretta caretta), one of Europe s most endangered marine species. The turtles prefer large tracts of clean, flat and uninhabited sand, as do basking tourists, and this has led to the imminent extinction of the turtle. Zakynthos hosts the largest density of turtle nests around 1100 along the 5km Bay of Laganas. During hatching time (July to October), surviving hatchlings emerge after a 60-day incubation period in the sand. Many of the nests are destroyed by brollies and bikes, and the surviving young don t make it to the water they are often disoriented by sunbeds, noise and lights. Conservation lobbyists have clashed with local authorities, tourist operators and government, and in 1999, following pressure from the EU, the Greek Government declared the Bay of Laganas area a national marine park. Strict regulations were put in force regarding building, boating, mooring, fishing and watersports in designated zones. All designated nesting beaches are completely off-limits between dusk and dawn during the breeding season (May to October). Despite this, dozens of illegal bars and tavernas operate in the area, illegal umbrellas and sunbeds are rented out to tourists, and boats cruise through protected waters. The Greek Government is accused of having its head in the sand; it has been condemned by the European Court of Justice for failing to implement EU nature protection legislation. Meanwhile, WWF (Worldwide Fund for Nature), Archelon (the Sea Turtle Protection Society of Greece) and Medasset ( Mediterranean Association to Save the Sea Turtles) continue their lobbying efforts. Volunteers from Archelon ( and National Marine Park provide informal beach wardens and run excellent education and volunteer programmes. For further information, visit the wildlife information centre at Gerakas. Visitors can also do the following: Avoid using umbrellas on dry sand (use the wet part of the beach). Do not enter nesting beaches between dusk and dawn, and avoid visiting Daphni beach. Be aware of boating trips where they go and what s on offer. Seek information on the area s sea turtle conservation efforts and protective regulations. Hotel Palatino (% ; Kolokotroni 10; s/d 70/90; ai) The marble floors, arched windows and plants provide an overall 80s experience, and many businesspeople choose to stay in these wellappointed rooms; they have an eye for great value. Hotel Strada Marina (% ; hotel@strada marina.gr; Lombardou 14; s/d incl breakfast 85/130; as) This is your no-surprises, standardstyle hotel with well-equipped rooms including TV and fridge. The inviting rooftop area has a small pool. Also recommended: Athina Apartments (% ; athina_apts@ yahoo.gr; 2 Agiou Louka; studio 50; a) Travellers have reported these basic, reasonably-priced studios, near the bus station. Hotel Diana (% ; Agiou Markou; s/d/tr incl breakfast 60/80/95; ai) Dated, but comfortable and well-appointed in a central location. Eating & Drinking Argostoli s sweet shop windows entice with their range of the tooth-dissolving local nougat, mandolato. This is especially so along Alexandrou Roma, home also to some good cafés and gyros (Greek version of döner kebab) places. Touristy and overpriced restaurants line Agiou Markou. If you have transport, you re better off heading to one of the nearby villages (see boxed text, p711 ). Arekia (% ; mains under 10) Munch to the melodies of live kantades (serenades) and arekia (folk songs) at this entertaining place, a 1km walk north of Solomou along the waterfront. The spritely 80-somethingyear-old band member dallies with ditties to aid digestion (Greek-speakers will get a kick). Gargantuan portions of traditional Greek fare hit the right note. Base (% ; Agiou Markou; cappuccino 3.50) This hip place just gets hipper; it s the alfresco hang-out among the younger Zantiot it crowd. There s a well-stocked supermarket on the corner of Filioti and Lombardou. AROUND ZAKYNTHOS Whether you re a culture vulture or sunseeker, the best way to see the island is to hire a car and go exploring. Loggerhead turtles (see boxed text, opposite ) come ashore to lay their eggs on the golden-sand beaches of the huge Bay of Laganas, a National Marine Park on Zakynthos south coast, whereas party animals frequent Laganas, the highly developed, somewhat tacky resort. Keri at Limni Keriou (not to be confused with Keri village further south) is a more attractive option, but the beach is narrow and stony. You ll find boat hire and a scuba diving centre here. The Vasilikos Peninsula is the pretty green region southeast of Zakynthos Town, but it s being increasingly exploited by developers. It offers a number of ever-expanding settlements off the main road, with tavernas and accommodation. For beach bums, Kaminia is the first half-decent beach to consider. Banana, a long and narrow strip of golden sand, offers plenty of action: crowds, watersports and umbrellas. Zakynthos best beach is the long, sandy and much-coveted Gerakas. It s on the other side of the peninsula, facing Laganas Bay. This is one of the main turtle-nesting beaches, and access to the beach is forbidden between dusk and dawn during May and October (see boxed text, opposite ). With your own transport, you can semiescape from the tourist hype by visiting the accessible west coast coves, such as Limnionas or Kambi (the latter has some popular, but tacky, tavernas ideally positioned for the sunsets). The most peaceful option is the quieter northeast coast around Agios Nikolaos, where development is proceeding slowly. Known primarily as the ferry point, this tiny place has a few food and drink dwellings, a small stretch of beach with clear water, free sunbeds and a pretty islet. The inland areas in the island s north and west make for a fun and interesting visit, and provide a touch of rural tranquillity and great food (see boxed text, p711 ). Villages and settlements some of which survived the 1953 earthquake are scattered through the scrub and pines; here, the welcoming locals have maintained their cultural traditions and sell honey and other seasonal products. Churches and monasteries feature highly along this village route: St Nikolaos in Kiliomeno features an unusual roofless campanile; the bell tower of Agios Leon (in the village of the same name) was formerly a windmill. The small and charming hamlet of Exo Hora has a fascinating congregation of dried wells, and what is reputed to be the oldest olive tree on the island. Volimes is the unashamed sales centre for all traditional products. Sleeping Tartaruga Camping (% ; -camping.com; camp sites per adult/car/tent 5/3/3.60, r per person 20-45) A great place for happy campers amid terraced olive groves, pines and plane trees that sprawl as far as the sea. It has a small store and a café, and rooms for rent. Wellsigned on the road from Laganas to Keri. Anna s Villas (% , ; d 60-90; Limni Keriou) Two good-value studio apartments, in a garden setting. They re set a block or so back from Limni Keriou s main drag, but are close to the action. SHIPWRECK BEACH & BLUE CAVES The famous Shipwreck (Navagio), whose photos grace virtually every tourist brochure about Zakynthos, is at the northwest tip of the island. It is a tad overhyped, if splendid, beach, and it s downright unappealing when round-the-island excursion boats from Zakynthos Town bring trippers en masse. Your best bet is to take a small-boat trip to see Shipwreck and/or the Blue Caves (in the island s northeast). The northeastern coastal road is lined with hawkers offering the same-trip-better-boat deals. Potamitis Trips (% ) offers good glassbottom boat trips at Cape Skinari, 3km beyond Agios Nikolaos (Blue Caves only, 7.50; Shipwreck and Blue Caves, 15). In any case, for a bungee-jump-style adrenalin rush, visit the precariously perched lookout platform over Shipwreck on the west coast (signposted between Anafonitria and Volimes). IONIAN ISLANDS

365 Lonely Planet Publications 714 ZAKYNTHOS Around Zakynthos IONIAN ISLANDS Seaside Apartments (% ; 2-/4-person studio 70/90) These excellentvalue bright and artistic rooms are also in Limni Keriou. Revera Villas (% , ; -zante.com; d 75, studio 85, 4-/6-person villa 145/200; as) This delightful complex of Italianfeel villas is located 4km southwest of Limni Keriou village (and 500m southwest of Keri village), just off the road to the lighthouse. The individually decorated, luxury rooms incorporate old-style stone elements. There are Jacuzzi baths, a recently installed pool and a private patch of forest to amble in. Earth Sea & Sky (through Ionian Eco Villagers % in the UK) can arrange short- or long-term stays in villas and cottages around the Vasilikos Peninsula. Alternatively, you could try your luck for a spontaneous booking with the same company at its wildlife information kiosk in Gerakas. In the north, stop for a night at Cape Skinari, 3km north of Agios Nikolaos. Two windmills (% ; 2-/4-person windmill 90/120; a) are an accommodation novelty, with great views. A nearby snack bar café and a lovely swimming area (down steep steps) serve visitors. It s the departure point for boat trips to the Blue Caves and shipwreck beach (see boxed text, p713 ). In Agios Nikolaos, near Cape Skinari, the friendly, English-speaking hosts at Panorama Studios (% ; rama; d 45) offer basic studio accommodation on the main road 600m uphill from the port. Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content.

366 Lonely Planet Publications 715 D i r e c t o r y THUMB DIRECTORY TAB CONTENTS Accommodation 715 Activities 717 Business Hours 719 Children 719 Climate Charts 720 Courses 721 Customs 721 Dangers & Annoyances 722 Discount Cards 722 Embassies & Consulates 722 Festivals & Events 723 Food 725 Gay & Lesbian Travellers 725 Holidays 725 Insurance 725 Internet Access 726 Legal Matters 726 Maps 726 Money 727 Photography & Video 728 Post 728 Shopping 729 Solo Travellers 729 Telephone 729 Time 730 Toilets 730 Tourist Information 730 Travellers with Disabilities 731 Visas 731 Women Travellers 731 Work 731 PRACTICALITIES Greece is two hours ahead of GMT/UTC and three hours ahead during daylight saving time. Use the metric system for weights and measures. Plug your electrical appliances into a two-pin adaptor before plugging into the electricity supply (220V AC, 50Hz). Keep up with Greek current affairs by reading the daily English-language edition of Kathimerini that comes with the International Herald Tribune. Channel hop through a choice of nine free-to-air TV channels and an assortment of pay TV channels. Be aware that Greece is region code 2 when you buy DVDs to watch back home. ACCOMMODATION There is a range of accommodation available in Greece to suit every taste and pocket. All places to stay are subject to strict price controls set by the tourist police. By law, a notice must be displayed in every room, which states the category of the room and the price charged in each season. The price includes a 4.5% community tax and 8% VAT. Accommodation owners may add a 10% surcharge for a stay of less than three nights, but this is not mandatory. A mandatory charge of 20% is levied if an extra bed is put into a room. During July and August, accommodation owners will charge the maximum price, but in spring and autumn, prices will drop by up to 20%, and perhaps by even more in winter. Rip-offs rarely occur, but if you do suspect that you have been exploited by an accommodation owner, make sure you report it to either the tourist police or the regular police, and they will act swiftly. Throughout this book we have divided accommodation into budget (up to 60), midrange ( 60 to 150) and top end categories ( 150+). This is a per-person rate in high season (July and August). Unless otherwise stated, all rooms have private bathroom facilities. BOOK ACCOMMODATION ONLINE For more accommodation reviews and recommendations by Lonely Planet authors, check out the online booking service at You ll find the true, insider lowdown on the best places to stay. Reviews are thorough and independent. Best of all, you can book online.

367 716 DIRECTORY Accommodation DIRECTORY Activities 717 DIRECTORY It s difficult to generalise accommodation prices in Greece as rates depend entirely on the season and location. Don t expect to pay the same price for a double on one of the islands as you would in central Greece or even Athens. Camping Camping is a good option, especially in summer. There are almost 350 camping grounds in Greece in almost every location with the notable exception of the Saronic Gulf islands and a lot of them are situated in great locations. Standard facilities include hot showers, kitchens, restaurants and minimarkets and often a swimming pool. Most camping grounds are open only between April and October. The Panhellenic Camping Association (Map pp104-5 ; %/fax ; Solonos 102, Athens) publishes an annual booklet listing all its camping grounds, their facilities and months of operation. Camping fees are highest from 15 June through to the end of August. Most camping grounds charge from 5 to 7 per adult and 3 to 4 for children aged four to 12. There s no charge for children aged under four. Tent sites cost from 4 per night for small tents, and from 5 per night for large tents. Caravan sites start at around 6; car costs are typically 4 to 5. Between May and mid-september the weather is warm enough to sleep out under the stars. Many camping grounds have covered areas where tourists who don t have tents can sleep in summer; you can get by with a lightweight sleeping bag. It s a good idea to have a foam pad to lie on and a waterproof cover for your sleeping bag. Domatia Domatia (literally rooms ) are the Greek equivalent of the British bed and breakfast, minus the breakfast. Once upon a time domatia comprised little more than spare rooms in the family home that could be rented out to travellers in summer; nowadays, many are purpose-built appendages to the family house. Some come complete with fully equipped kitchens. Standards of cleanliness are generally high. Domatia remain a popular option for budget travellers. They are classified A, B or C class. Expect to pay from 25 to 40 for a single, and 35 to 55 for a double, depending on the class, whether bathrooms are shared or private, the season and how long you plan to stay. Domatia are found throughout the mainland (except in large cities) and on almost every island that has a permanent population. Many are open only between April and October. From June to September domatia owners are out in force, touting for customers. They meet buses and boats, shouting Room, room! and often carrying photographs of their rooms. In peak season, it can prove a mistake not to take up an offer but be wary of owners who are vague about the location of their accommodation. Hostels There is only one youth hostel in Greece affiliated to the International Youth Hostel Federation (IYHF), the Athens International Youth Hostel ( p131 ). You don t need a membership card to stay there; temporary membership costs 1.80 per day. Most other youth hostels in Greece are run by the Greek Youth Hostel Organisation (Map p100 ; % ; Damareos 75, Athens). There are affiliated hostels in Athens, Olympia, Patra and Thessaloniki on the mainland, and on the islands of Crete and Santorini. Hostel rates vary from 8 to 11 for a bed in a dorm and you don t have to be a member to stay in any of them. Few have curfews. Hotels Hotels in Greece are divided into six categories: deluxe, A, B, C, D and E. Hotels are categorised according to the size of the room, whether or not they have a bar, and the ratio of bathrooms to beds, rather than standards of cleanliness, comfort of the beds and friendliness of staff all elements that may be of greater relevance to guests. As one would expect, deluxe, A- and B- class hotels have many amenities, private bathrooms and constant hot water. C-class hotels have a snack bar, rooms have private bathrooms, but hot water may only be available at certain times of the day. D-class hotels may or may not have snack bars, most rooms will share bathrooms, but there may be some with private bathrooms, and they may have solar-heated water, which means hot water is not guaranteed. E-class rooms do not have a snack bar, bathrooms are shared and you may have to pay extra for hot water. Prices are controlled by the tourist police and the maximum rate that can be charged for a room must be displayed on a board behind the door of each room. The classification is not often much of a guide to price. Rates in D- and E-class hotels are generally comparable with domatia. You can pay from 35 to 60 for a single in high season in C class and 45 to 80 for a double. Prices in B class range from 50 to 80 for singles, and from 90 to 120 for doubles. A-class prices are not much higher. Mountain Refuges There are 55 mountain refuges dotted around the Greek mainland, Crete and Evia. They range from small huts with outdoor toilets and no cooking facilities to very comfortable modern lodges. They are run by the country s various mountaineering and skiing clubs. Prices start at around 7, depending on the facilities. The EOT ( Greek National Tourist Organization) publication Greece: Mountain Refuges & Ski Centres has details about each refuge; copies are available at all EOT branches. See p730 for more information on EOT. Pensions Pensions are indistinguishable from hotels. They are divided into A, B or C class. An A-class pension is equivalent in amenities and price to a B-class hotel, a B-class pension is equivalent to a C-class hotel and a C-class pension is equivalent to a D- or E- class hotel. Rental Accommodation A really practical way to save on money and maximise comfort is to rent a furnished apartment or villa. Many are purpose-built for tourists while others villas in particular may be owners homes that they are not using. The main advantage is that you can accommodate a larger number of people under one roof and can also save money by self catering. This option is best for a stay of more than three days. In fact some owners may insist on a minimum week s stay. A good site to spot prospective villas is If you re looking for long-term accommodation, it s worth checking the classified section of the Athens News although most of the places are in Athens. In rural areas and islands, the local kafeneio (coffee house) is a good place to start your search. ACTIVITIES Diving & Snorkelling Snorkelling can be enjoyed just about anywhere along the coast of Greece. Especially good places are Ammoöpi ( p537 ) in southern Karpathos, Velanio ( p663 ) on Skopelos and Paleokastritsa ( p687 ) on Corfu. Diving is another matter. Any kind of under water activity using breathing apparatus is strictly forbidden other than under the supervision of a diving school. This law exists to protect the many antiquities in the depths of the Aegean. There are diving schools on the islands of Corfu ( p687 ), in Agios Nikolaos and Rethymno ( p479 ) on Crete, Evia ( p650 ), Hydra ( p357 ), Leros ( p576 ), Milos ( p440 ), Mykonos, Paros, Rhodes, Santorini and Skiathos ( p659 ), Glyfada ( p126 ) near Athens, and Parga (Epiros) on the mainland. Hiking More than half of Greece is mountainous. It would be a hikers paradise but for one drawback many of the paths in Greece are overgrown and inadequately marked. Like all organisations in Greece, EOS (Greek Alpine Club; % ; Kapnikareas 2, Athens) is grossly underfunded. But don t be put off by this, as the most popular routes are well walked and maintained. You ll find EOS branches in Epiros ( p329 ), Crete ( p479 ) and Evia. See p726 for information on hiking maps. On small islands it can be fun to discover pathways for yourself. You are unlikely to get into danger as settlements or roads are never far away. You will encounter a variety of paths; kalderimia are the cobbled or flagstone paths that link settlements and date back to Byzantine times. Sadly, many have been bulldozed to make way for new roads. Other paths include shepherd s trails or monopatia that link settlements with sheepfolds or link remote settlements via rough unmarked trails. A number of companies run organised hikes. The biggest of them is Trekking Hellas ( p130 ), which offers a variety of hikes ranging from a four-hour stroll through the Lousios Valley (Peloponnese) to a week-long hike around Mt Olympus and Meteora. The company also runs hikes on Crete and in the Cyclades. Kitesurfing This relatively new action sport that combines windsurfing, snowboarding, wakeboarding, traction kites and paragliding is considered DIRECTORY

368 718 DIRECTORY Activities DIRECTORY Business Hours 719 DIRECTORY one of the most extreme water sports. The beaches of Greece are beginning to be festooned with athletic young surfers alternately surfing and flying on short but fat surfboards. The Greek Wakeboard and Kite Surf Association (% ; has details of popular locales in Greece for this growing action sport. Skiing Greece provides some of the cheapest skiing in Europe. There are 16 resorts dotted around the mountains of mainland Greece, mainly in the north. The main skiing areas are Mt Parnassos ( p237 ), 195km northwest of Athens, and Mt Vermio ( p301 ), 110km west of Thessaloniki. There are no foreign package holidays to these resorts; they are used mainly by Greeks. They have all the basic facilities and can be a pleasant alternative to the glitzy resorts of northern Europe. The season depends on snow conditions but runs approximately from January to the end of April. For further information pick up a copy of Greece: Mountain Refuges & Ski Centres from an EOT office ( p730 ). Information may also be obtained from the Hellenic Skiing Federation (Map pp102-3 ; % ; press@ski.org.gr; Karageorgi Servias 7, Syntagma, Athens). You ll find information about the latest snow conditions on the internet at report.gr. Water-skiing There are three islands with water-ski centres: Kythira, Paros and Skiathos. Given the relatively calm and flat waters of most islands and the generally warm waters of the Aegean, water-skiing can be a very pleasant activity. August can be a tricky month when the meltemi (northeasterly wind) can make conditions difficult in the central Aegean. The island of Poros near Athens is a particularly well organised locale with one organisation, Passage (% ; Neorion Bay), hosting a popular school and slalom centre. White-water Rafting The popularity of white-water rafting and other river adventure sports has grown rapidly in recent years as more and more urban Greeks, particularly Athenians, head off in search of a wilderness experience as a release from the stresses of city life. Trekking Hellas ( p130 ) offers half a dozen possibilities, including the Lousios/Alphios Rivers in the Peloponnese, the River Arahthos in Epiros and the River Aheloos in Thessaly. Alpin Club (% /5; specialises in the Lousios/Alphios and the River Evinos, near Nafpaktos in Sterea Ellada. Eco Action (% ; Agion Anargyron, Psyrri) offers rafting and kayaking on the Ladonas River in the Peloponnese, which hosted the kayaking at the 2004 Olympics, as well as on another three rivers throughout Greece. All the guides/instructors, and most of the participants, speak English and foreigners are made especially welcome. Whatever else, tourists are sure to have an interesting time meeting locals who share a common interest. Windsurfing Windsurfing is the most popular water sport in Greece. Hrysi Akti ( p399 ) on Paros, and Vasiliki ( p698 ) on Lefkada vie for the position of the best windsurfing beach. According to some, Vasiliki is one of the best places in the world to learn the sport, while Afiarti ( p537 ) on Karpathos is for more experienced windsurfers. You ll find sailboards for hire almost everywhere. Hire charges range from 10 to 15 an hour, depending on the gear. If you are a novice, most places that rent equipment also give lessons. Sailboards can be imported freely from other EU countries, but the import of boards from other destinations, such as Australia and the US, is subject to some quaint regulations. Theoretically, importers need a Greek national residing in Greece to guarantee that the board will be taken out of the country again. Contact the Hellenic Windsurfing Association (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Filellinon 4, Athens) for more information. Yachting Yachting is the best way to see the Greek islands. Nothing beats the experience of sailing the open sea, and the freedom of being able to visit remote and uninhabited islands. The free EOT booklet Sailing the Greek Seas, although long overdue for an update, contains lots of information about weather conditions, weather bulletins, entry and exit regulations, entry and exit ports and guidebooks for yachties. You can pick up the booklet at any GNTO/EOT office either abroad or in Greece (see p730 for locations). If your budget won t cover buying a yacht, there are several other options open to you. You can hire a bare boat (a yacht without a crew) if two crew members have a sailing certificate. Prices start at 1000 per week for a 28-footer that will sleep six. It will cost an extra 840 per week to hire a skipper. Individuals can check out the cruises offered by Ghiolman Yachts & Travel (off Map pp102-3 ; % ; Propyleon, Acropolis, Athens ). Ghiolman has seven-day Ionian cruises leaving Corfu every Saturday, and seven-day Dodecanese cruises leaving Rhodes every Thursday. Berths on board these boats are priced from 700, and include half-board and the services of an English-speaking guide. Both cruises operate weekly from early May to the end of September. Hellenic Yachting Server ( has information about yachting and chartering yachts. BUSINESS HOURS Banks are open from 8am to 2pm Monday to Thursday, and from 8am to 1.30pm Friday. Some banks in large towns and cities open between 3.30pm and 6.30pm on weekdays and 8am to 1.30pm Saturday. Post offices are open from 7.30am to 2pm Monday to Friday. In the major cities they stay open until 8pm, and open from 7.30am to 2pm Saturday. In summer, the usual opening hours for shops are from 8am to 1.30pm and from 5.30pm to 8.30pm on Tuesday, Thursday and Friday, and from 8am to 2.30pm on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday. Shops open 30 minutes later during winter. These times are not always strictly adhered to. Many shops in tourist resorts are open seven days a week. Department stores and supermarkets are open from 8am to 8pm Monday to Friday, from 8am to at least 3pm on Saturday and are closed on Sunday. Periptera (street kiosks) are open from early morning until late at night. They sell everything from bus tickets and cigarettes to razor blades and shaving cream. Restaurant hours vary enormously. Most places are normally open for lunch from 11am to 3pm, and for dinner between 7pm and 1am, while restaurants in tourist areas remain open all day. Cafés normally open at about 10am, and stay open until midnight. Bars open from about 8pm until late, while discos and nightclubs don t usually open until at least 10pm; it s rare to find much of a crowd before midnight. They close at about 4am, later on Friday and Saturday. CHILDREN Greece is a safe and relatively easy place to travel with children. Greeks are well-known for making a fuss of children, who will always be made the centre of attention. Despite this, it s rare for younger children to have much success making friends with children their own age, partly because Greek children tend to play at home and partly because of the language barrier. The language barrier starts to recede by the age of about 12, by which time many local children are sufficiently advanced with their studies to communicate in English. Matt Barrett s website ( has lots of useful tips for parents, while daughter Amarandi has put together some tips for kids ( Practicalities Travelling is especially easy if you re staying at a resort hotel by the beach, where everything is set up for families with children. As well as facilities like paddling pools and playgrounds, they also have cots and highchairs. Best of all, there s a strong possibility of making friends with other kids. Elsewhere, it s rare to find cots and highchairs, although most hotels and restaurants will do their best to help. The fast service in most restaurants is good news when it comes to feeding hungry kids. Mobility is an issue for parents with very small children. Strollers (pushchairs) aren t much use in Greece unless you re going to spend all your time in one of the few flat spots. They are hopeless on rough stone paths and up steps, and a curse when getting on/off buses and ferries. Backpacks or front pouches are best. Fresh milk is available in large towns and tourist areas, but harder to find on smaller islands. Supermarkets are the best place to look. Formula is available everywhere, as is condensed and heat-treated milk. Disposable nappies are an environmental curse, but they can be a godsend on the road. They are also available everywhere. DIRECTORY

369 720 DIRECTORY Climate Charts DIRECTORY Courses 721 DIRECTORY Travel on ferries, buses and trains is free for children under four. They pay half-fare up to the age of 10 (ferries) or 12 (buses and trains). Full fares apply otherwise. On domestic flights, you ll pay 10% of the adult fare to have a child under two sitting on your knee. Kids aged two to 12 pay half-fare. Sights & Activities If you re travelling around, the main problem is a shortage of decent playgrounds and other recreational facilities. Don t be afraid to take children to the ancient sites. Many parents are surprised by how much their children enjoy them. Young imaginations go into overdrive when let loose somewhere like the labyrinth at Knossos. CLIMATE CHARTS Greece can be divided into a number of main climatic regions. Northern Macedonia and ATHENS 15m (49ft) C Temp F CORFU 4m (13ft) C Temp F J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D in in Rainfall 0 J F MAM J J A S O N D Rainfall Average Max/Min Average Max/Min 0 J F MAM J J A S O N D CRETE (IRAKLIO) 39m (128ft) C Temp F in Rainfall J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D mm mm Average Max/Min mm northern Epiros have a climate similar to the Balkans, with freezing winters and very hot, humid summers; while the Attica Peninsula, the Cyclades, the Dodecanese, Crete, and the central and eastern Peloponnese have a more typically Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and milder winters. Snow is rare in the Cyclades (it snowed on Paros for the first time in 15 years in 1992), but the high mountains of the Peloponnese and Crete are covered in snow during the winter, and it does occasionally snow in Athens. In July and August, the mercury can soar to 40 C (over 100 F) in the shade just about anywhere in the country. July and August are also the months of the meltemi, a strong northerly wind that sweeps the eastern coast of mainland Greece (including Athens) and the Aegean Islands, especially the Cyclades. The wind is caused by air pressure differences between North Africa LESVOS (MYTILINI) 5m (16ft) C Temp F in Rainfall J F MAM J J A S O N D RHODES 11m (36ft) C Temp F J F MAM J J A S O N D THESSALONIKI 4m (13ft) C Temp F in J F MAM J J A S O N D in Average Max/Min 0 J F MAM J J A S O N D Rainfall 0 J F MAM J J A S O N D Rainfall mm Average Max/Min 0 J F MAM J J A S O N D mm Average Max/Min mm and the Balkans. The wind is a mixed blessing: it reduces humidity, but plays havoc with ferry schedules and sends everything flying from beach umbrellas to washing hanging out to dry. The western Peloponnese, western Sterea Ellada, southwestern Epiros and the Ionian Islands escape the meltemi and have less severe winters than northern Greece, but are the areas with the highest rainfall. The Northeastern Aegean Islands, Halkidiki and the Pelion Peninsula fall somewhere between the Balkan-type climate of northern Greece and the Mediterranean climates. Crete stays warm the longest you can swim off the island s southern coast from mid-april to November. Mid-October is when the rains start in most areas, and the weather stays cold and wet until February although there are also occasional winter days with clear blue skies and sunshine. For tips on the best times to visit Greece, see p20. COURSES Cooking It is possible to do cooking courses on Santorini, Kea, Ikaria and Crete. See p90 for more information on cooking courses. Dance The Dora Stratou Dance Company ( p141 ) runs one-week courses for foreigners at its headquarters in Plaka during July and August. Language If you are serious about learning the Greek language, an intensive course at the start of your stay is a good way to go about it. Most of the courses are based in Athens ( p129 ), but there are also special courses on the islands in summer. Athens Centre (Map p100 ; % ; Arhimidous 48, Mets, Athens) is located in the suburb of Mets, and also runs courses on the island of Spetses in June and July. The three-week courses cost 1150, and involve 60 hours of classwork. Hellenic Culture Centre (% /40; hmay-oct), in the village of Arethousa, 7km from Evdilos, offers courses in Greek language, culture and literature. All levels of language proficiency are catered for. Painting Painting courses are becoming increasingly popular, and British tour operators offer a range of possibilities. Simply Travel (% ; runs two-week tours to western Crete, while Travelux (% ; offers a week in the wonderful Zagorohoria region of Epiros, followed by a week on the island of Lefkada. Another operator, Tapestry Holidays (% ; specialises in tours to the Pelion Peninsula. CUSTOMS There are no longer duty-free restrictions within the EU. This does not mean, however, that customs checks have been dispensed with; random searches are still made for drugs. Upon entering the country from outside the EU, customs inspection is usually cursory for foreign tourists. There may be spot checks, but you probably won t have to open your bags. A verbal declaration is usually all that is required. You may bring the following into Greece duty-free: 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars; 1L of spirits or 2L of wine; 50ml of perfume; 250mL of eau de Cologne; one camera (still or video) and film; a pair of binoculars; a portable musical instrument; a portable radio or tape recorder; a laptop computer; sports equipment; and dogs and cats (with a veterinary certificate). Importation of works of art and antiquities into Greece is free, but they must be declared on entry, so that they can be re-exported. Import regulations for medicines are strict; if you are taking medication, make sure you get a statement from your doctor before you leave home. It is illegal, for instance, to take codeine into Greece without an accompanying doctor s certificate. An unlimited amount of foreign currency and travellers cheques may be brought into Greece. If you intend to leave the country with foreign banknotes in excess of US$1000, you must declare the sum upon entry. Restrictions apply to the importation of sailboards into Greece (see p718 ). It is strictly forbidden to export antiquities (anything over 100 years old) without an export permit. This crime is second only to drug smuggling in the penalties imposed. It is an offence to remove even the smallest article from an archaeological site. DIRECTORY

370 722 DIRECTORY Dangers & Annoyances DIRECTORY Festivals & Events 723 DIRECTORY The place to apply for an export permit is at the Antique Dealers and Private Collections section of the Athens Archaeological Service (Map pp102-3 ; Polygnotou 13, Plaka, Athens). Vehicles Cars can be brought into Greece for six months without a carnet; only a green card (international third-party insurance) is required. Your only proof of entry into the country will be your ferry ticket stub (if arriving from Italy) so don t lose it. Otherwise from other countries, a passport stamp will be ample evidence. DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Bar Scams Bar scams continue to be an unfortunate fact of life in Athens, particularly in the Syntagma area. The basic scam is always some variation on the following theme: solo male traveller is lured into bar on some pretext (not always sex), strikes up conversation with friendly locals, charming girls appear and ask for what turn out to be ludicrously overpriced drinks, traveller is eventually handed an enormous bill. Fortunately, this practice appears confined to Athens at this stage. See p110 for the full run-down on this scam and other problems in the capital. Theft Crime, especially theft, is low in Greece, but unfortunately it is on the increase. The worst area is around Omonia in central Athens keep track of your valuables here, especially on the metro and at the Sunday flea market. The vast majority of thefts from tourists are still committed by other tourists; the biggest danger of theft is probably in dormitory rooms in hostels and at camping grounds. So make sure you do not leave valuables unattended in such places. If you are staying in a hotel room, and the windows and door do not lock securely, ask for your valuables to be locked in the hotel safe hotel proprietors are happy to do this. DISCOUNT CARDS Senior Cards Card-carrying EU pensioners can claim a range of benefits such as reduced admission to ancient sites and museums, and discounts on bus and train fares. Student & Youth Cards The most widely recognised form of student ID is the International Student Identity Card (ISIC). These cards qualify the holder to half-price admission to museums and ancient sites and for discounts at some budget hotels and hostels. Aegean Airlines and Cronus offer student discounts on some domestic flights, but there are none to be had on buses, ferries or trains. Students will find some good deals on international air fares. Some travel agencies in Athens are licensed to issue cards. You must show documents proving you are a student, provide a passport photo and cough up 10. Visit and for more information. EMBASSIES & CONSULATES Greek Embassies Greek diplomatic missions abroad: Albania (% ; Ruga Frederik Shiroka, Tirana) Australia (% ; 9 Turrana St, Yarralumla, ACT 2600) Bulgaria (% ; San Stefano 33, Sofia 1504) Canada (% ; Maclaren St, Ottawa, Ontario K2P OK6) Cyprus (% /671; Vyronos 8-10, Nicosia) Denmark (% ; Borgergade 16, 1300 Copenhagen K) Egypt (% ; Aisha el Taymouria 18, Garden City, Cairo) France (% ; Rue Auguste Vacquerie 17, Paris) Germany (% ; Jaegerstrasse 54-55, Berlin-Mitte) Ireland (% ; 1 Upper Pembroke St, Dublin 2) Israel (% ; Tower Bldg, Daniel Frisch 3, Tel Aviv 64731) Italy (% ; Via S Mercadante 36, Rome 00198) Japan (% ; Nishi Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo ) Netherlands (% ; Amaliastraat 1, 2514 JC, The Hague) New Zealand (% ; 5-7 Willeston St, Wellington) Norway (% ; Nobels Gate 45, 0244 Oslo 2) South Africa (% ; 1003 Church St, Hatfield, Pretoria 0028) Spain (% ; Avenida Doctor Arce 24, Madrid 28002) Sweden (% ; Riddargatan 60, Stockholm) Switzerland (% ; Laubeggstrasse, Bern 3006) Turkey (% ; Zia ur Rahman Caddesi 9-11, Gaziosmanpasa 06700, Ankara) UK (% ; 1a Holland Park, London W11 3TP) USA (% ; Massachusetts Ave NW, Washington DC 20008) Embassies in Greece All foreign embassies in Greece are in Athens and its suburbs. Albania (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Vekiareli 7, Athens GR ) Australia (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Leoforos Alexandras & Kifisias, Ambelokipi, Athens GR ) Bulgaria (% ; Stratigou Kalari 33a, Psyhiko, Athens GR ) Canada (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Genadiou 4, Athens GR ) Cyprus (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Irodotou 16, Athens GR ) Egypt (Map pp102-3 ; % ; Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias 3, Athens) France (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias 7, Athens GR ) Germany (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Karaoli & Dimitriou 3, Kolonaki, Athens GR ) Hungary (% ; Kalvou 16, Psyhiko, Athens GR ) Ireland (Map p100 ; % ; Vasileos Konstandinou 5-7, Athens GR ) Israel (% ; Marathonodromou 1, Athens GR ) Italy (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Sekeri 2, Athens GR ) Japan (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Athens Tower, Mesogion 2-4, Athens GR ) Netherlands (Map p100 ; % ; Vasileos Konstantinou 5-7, Athens GR ) New Zealand (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Kifisias 268, Halandri, Athens) Serbia & Montenegro (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias 106, Athens GR ) South Africa (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Kifisias 60, Marousi, Athens GR ) Turkey (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Vasileos Georgiou 8, Athens GR ) UK (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Ploutarhou 1, Athens GR ) USA (Map pp106-7 ; % ; Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias 91, Athens GR ) It s important to know what your embassy the embassy of the country of which you are a citizen can and can t do to help if you get into trouble. Generally, it won t be much help in emergencies if the trouble you re in is remotely your own fault. Remember that you are bound by the laws of the country you are in. Your embassy will not be sympathetic if you commit a crime locally, even if such actions are legal in your own country. In genuine emergencies you might get some assistance, but only if other channels have been exhausted. For example, if you need to get home urgently, a free ticket home is exceedingly unlikely. If you have all your money and documents stolen, it might assist with getting a new passport, but a loan for onward travel is out of the question. Some embassies used to keep letters for travellers or have a small reading room with home newspapers, but these days the mail holding service has usually been stopped and even newspapers tend to be out of date. FESTIVALS & EVENTS The Greek year is a succession of festivals and events, some of which are religious, some cultural, others just an excuse for a good party, and some a combination of all three. The following is by no means an exhaustive list, but it covers the most important events, both national and regional. If you re in the right place at the right time, you ll certainly be invited to join the revelry. More details about festivals and events can be found at January Feast of Agios Vasilios (St Basil) The year kicks off with this festival on 1 January. A church ceremony is followed by the exchanging of gifts, singing, dancing and feasting; the New Year pie (vasilopita) is cut and the person who gets the slice containing a coin will supposedly have a lucky year. Epiphany (Blessing of the Waters) The day of Christ s baptism by St John is celebrated throughout Greece on 6 January. Seas, lakes and rivers are blessed and crosses immersed in them. The largest ceremony occurs at Piraeus ( p152 ). Gynaikokratia The villages of the prefectures of Rodopi, Kilkis and Seres in northern Greece hold a day of role reversal on 8 January. Women spend the day in kafeneia and other male hang-outs, while the men stay at home to do the housework. February Carnival Season The three-week period before the beginning of Lent (the 40-day period before Easter, which is traditionally a period of fasting) is carnival season. The carnivals are ostensibly Christian pre-lenten celebrations, but many derive from pagan festivals. There are many DIRECTORY

371 724 DIRECTORY Festivals & Events DIRECTORY Food 725 DIRECTORY regional variations, but fancy dress, feasting, traditional dancing and general merrymaking prevail. The Patra carnival ( p163 ) is the largest and most exuberant, with elaborately decorated chariots parading through the streets. The most bizarre carnival takes place on the island of Skyros ( p672 ) where the men transform themselves into grotesque half-man, half-beast creatures by donning goat-skin masks and hairy jackets. Shrove Monday (Clean Monday) On the Monday before Ash Wednesday (the first day of Lent), people take to the hills throughout Greece to have picnics and fly kites. March Independence Day The anniversary of the hoisting of the Greek flag by Bishop Germanos at Moni Agias Lavras is celebrated on 25 March with parades and dancing. Germanos act of revolt marked the start of the War of Independence. Independence Day coincides with the Feast of the Annunciation, so it is also a religious festival. April Easter Easter is the most important festival in the Greek Orthodox religion. Emphasis is placed on the Resurrection rather than on the Crucifixion, so it is a joyous occasion. The festival begins on the evening of Good Friday with the perifora epitafiou, when a shrouded bier (representing Christ s funeral bier) is carried through the streets to the local church. This moving candle-lit procession can be seen in towns and villages throughout the country. From a spectator s viewpoint, the most impressive of these processions climbs Lykavittos Hill in Athens to the Chapel of Agios Georgios. The Resurrection Mass starts at 11pm on Saturday night. At midnight packed churches are plunged into darkness to symbolise Christ s passing through the underworld. The ceremony of the lighting of candles that follows is the most significant moment in the Orthodox year, for it symbolises the Resurrection. Its poignancy and beauty is spellbinding. If you are in Greece at Easter you should endeavour to attend this ceremony, which ends with fireworks and candle-lit processions through the streets. The Lenten fast ends on Easter Sunday with the cracking of red-dyed Easter eggs and an outdoor feast of roast lamb followed by Greek dancing. The day s greeting is Hristos anesti (Christ is risen), to which the reply is Alithos anesti (Truly He is risen). On both Palm Sunday (the Sunday before Easter) and Easter Sunday, St Spyridon (the mummified patron saint of Corfu) is taken out for an airing and joyously paraded through Corfu Town. He is paraded again on 11 August. Feast of Agios Georgios (St George) The feast day of St George, Greece s patron saint, and patron saint of shepherds, takes place on 23 April or the Tuesday following Easter (whichever comes first). It is celebrated at several places, but with particular exuberance in Arahova ( p238 ), near Delphi. May May Day On the first day of May there is a mass exodus from towns to the country. During picnics, wildflowers are gathered and made into wreaths to decorate houses. Anastenaria This fire-walking ritual takes place on 21 May in the village of Langadas, near Thessaloniki. Villagers clutching icons dance barefoot on burning charcoal. June Navy Week This festival celebrates the long relationship between Greeks and the sea with events in fishing villages and ports throughout the country. Volos ( p250 ) and Hydra each have unique versions of these celebrations. Volos re-enacts the departure of the Argo, for legend has it that Iolkos (from where Jason and the Argonauts set off in search of the Golden Fleece) was near the city. Hydra commemorates War of Independence hero Admiral Andreas Miaoulis, who was born on the island, at its Miaoulia Festival ( p358 ), which includes a re-enactment of one of his naval victories. Feast of St John the Baptist This feast day on 24 June is widely celebrated around Greece. Wreaths made on May Day are kept until this day, when they are burned on bonfires. Hellenic Festival The Hellenic Festival is the most important of the many festivals staged throughout Greece during summer. It features performances of music, dance and drama at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus ( p115 ) in Athens, and performances of ancient Greek drama at the world famous Theatre of Epidavros ( p187 ), near Nafplio in the Peloponnese. July Feast of Agia Marina (St Marina) This feast day is celebrated on 17 July in many parts of Greece, and is a particularly important event on the Dodecanese island of Kasos ( p540 ). Feast of Profitis Ilias This feast day is celebrated on 20 July at the many hilltop churches and monasteries throughout Greece that are dedicated to the prophet. Folegandros Festival The festival ( p437 ) features a week-long programme of music and feasting at a range of locations around the island s beautiful old hora. August Feast of the Assumption Greeks celebrate Assumption Day (15 August) with family reunions. The whole population seems to be on the move either side of the big day, so it s a good time to avoid public transport. The island of Tinos ( p372 ) gets particularly busy because of its miracleworking icon of Panagia Evangelistria. It becomes a place of pilgrimage for thousands, who come to be blessed, healed or baptised. Samothraki World Music Festival The Northeast Aegean island of Samothraki plays host to Greece s biggest rave party ( p636 ) for a week starting at the end of August. September Gennisis tis Panagias The birthday of the Virgin Mary is celebrated throughout Greece on 8 September with religious services and feasting. Exaltation of the Cross This is celebrated on 14 September throughout Greece with processions and hymns. October Feast of Agios Dimitrios This feast day is celebrated in Thessaloniki ( p282 ) on 26 October with wine drinking and revelry. Ohi (No) Day Metaxas refusal to allow Mussolini s troops free passage through Greece in WWII is commemorated on 28 October with remembrance services, military parades, folk dancing and feasting. December Christmas Day Although not as important as Easter, Christmas is still celebrated with religious services and feasting. Nowadays much Western influence is apparent, including Christmas trees, decorations and presents. FOOD For large cities and towns, restaurant listings in this book are given in the following order: budget (under 15), midrange ( 15 to 40) and top end (over 40), and within each section the restaurants are listed in budget order. For information on Greek cuisine, see p84. GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS In a country where the church still plays a prominent role in shaping society s views on issues such as sexuality, it should come as no surprise that homosexuality is generally frowned upon especially outside the major cities. While there is no legislation against homosexual activity, it pays to be discreet and to avoid open displays of togetherness. This has not prevented Greece from becoming an extremely popular destination for gay and lesbian travellers. Athens ( p139 ) has a busy gay scene but most gay and lesbian travellers head for the islands. Mykonos ( p381 ) has long been famous for its bars, beaches and general hedonism, while Skiathos ( p654 ) also has its share of gay hang-outs. The island of Lesvos (Mytilini, p618 ), birthplace of the lesbian poet Sappho, has become something of a place of pilgrimage for lesbians. Information The Spartacus International Gay Guide, published by Bruno Gmünder (Berlin), is widely regarded as the leading authority on the gay travel scene. The Greek section contains a wealth of information on gay venues everywhere from Alexandroupoli to Xanthi. There s also stacks of information on the internet. Roz Mov ( Hollywood/2225/) is a good place to start. It has pages on travel information, gay health, the gay press, organisations, events and legal issues and links to lots more sites. Another useful website, Gayscape ( has lots of links. HOLIDAYS Public Holidays All banks and shops and most museums and ancient sites close on public holidays. National public holidays in Greece: New Year s Day 1 January Epiphany 6 January First Sunday in Lent February Greek Independence Day 25 March Good Friday March/April (Orthodox) Easter Sunday (April/May) Orthodox Easter Sunday falls on 27 April in 2008 and 19 April in May Day (Protomagia) 1 May Feast of the Assumption 15 August Ohi Day 28 October Christmas Day 25 December St Stephen s Day 26 December School Holidays The school year is divided into three terms. The main school holidays are in July and August. INSURANCE A travel insurance policy to cover theft, loss and medical problems is a good idea. Some policies offer lower and higher medical-expense options; the higher ones are chiefly for countries such as the USA, which have extremely high medical costs. There is a wide variety of policies available, so check the small print. Some policies specifically exclude dangerous activities, which can include scuba diving, motorcycling, even hiking. A locally acquired motorcycle licence is not valid under some policies. You may prefer a policy that pays doctors or hospitals directly rather than you having to pay on the spot and claim later. If you have to claim later make sure you keep all documentation. Some policies ask you to call back DIRECTORY

372 726 DIRECTORY Internet Access DIRECTORY Money 727 DIRECTORY (reverse charges) to a centre in your home country where an immediate assessment of your problem is made. For more information on health insurance, see p749. Buy travel insurance as early as possible. If you buy it just before you fly, you may find you re not covered for such problems as delays caused by industrial action. Make sure you have a separate record of all your ticket details preferably a photocopy. Paying for your ticket with a credit card sometimes provides limited travel insurance, and you may be able to reclaim the payment if the operator doesn t deliver. In the UK, for instance, credit card providers are required by law to reimburse consumers if a company goes into liquidation and the amount in contention is more than UK 100. INTERNET ACCESS Greece has long since embraced the convenience of the internet big time. There has been a huge increase in the number of hotels and businesses using , and these addresses have been listed here where available. For a selection of useful websites about Greece, see p22. Internet cafés are everywhere, and are listed under the Information section for cities and islands where available. Some hotels also offer internet access. Many internet cafés and hotels now offer wi-fi access either for free or for a charge. In midrange hotels that will range from 6 for an hour to 20 for 24 hour access. Travelling with a laptop computer is a great way to stay in touch with life back home. Today s machines are light and slip easily into a protected daypack. Your laptop becomes your portable office: internet, a VoIP phone, your DVD and CD player, your photo archive and you can even create movies on the fly if you have a lightweight video camera with you too. You simply need to be certain that the power supply of your machine is compatible with Greece s. Dialing up to connect to the internet has become a thing of the past in Greece. As long as your laptop has a wireless card, or at least an Ethernet port, you can connect seamlessly at internet cafés or hotels or even hot spots in major towns. Syntagma Sq in Athens for example has plenty of hot spots. Many internet cafés will have an Ethernet cable too to connect your laptop if you do not have a wireless card. Note: internet cafés can often be noisy places as gaming has become big business. If you want to do any VoIP calling, choose your i-caf judiciously. By far the easiest way to access your is via the web-based programme of your service provider. Dedicated programmes such as Outlook (Windows) or Entourage (Macintosh) will collect your mail for you via a wireless or Ethernet node, but you will most probably not be able to send mail using these programmes because of relaying blocking by local ISPs. If your service provider does not have an alternative web-based page then use a service like Gmail, Yahoo! or Hotmail to send and read mail. LEGAL MATTERS Arrests It is a good idea to have your passport with you at all times in case you are stopped by the police and questioned. Greek citizens are presumed to always have identification on them; foreign visitors are similarly presumed to by the police. If you are arrested by police insist on an interpreter (the-lo dhi-ermi-nea) and/or a lawyer (the-lo dhi-ki-go-ro). Drugs Greek drug laws are the strictest in Europe. Greek courts make no distinction between possession and pushing. Possession of even a small amount of marijuana is likely to land you in jail. MAPS Unless you are going to hike or drive, the free maps given out by the EOT will probably suffice, although they are not 100% accurate. On islands where there is no EOT office, there are usually tourist maps for sale for around 1.50 but, again, these are not very accurate. The best overall maps for coverage are published by the Greek company Road Editions (% ; Kozanis 21 & Amfipoleos, Votanikos, Athens), whose maps are produced with the assistance of the Hellenic Army Geographical Service. There is a wide range of maps to suit various needs, starting with a 1:500,000 map of Greece. Motorists should check out the company s 1:250,000 maroon-cover series covering Thrace, Macedonia, Thessaly and Epiros, Central Greece, the Peloponnese and Crete. Even the smallest roads and villages are clearly marked, and the distance indicators are spot-on important when negotiating your way around the backblocks. The company s blue-cover Greek island series includes all the main islands. The scale ranges from 1:100,000 for larger islands like Corfu and Rhodes to 1:30,000 for Syros. It also publishes a 1:50,000 green-cover Greek mountain series, produced with hikers in mind. Equally good if not better for the islands are the Topo series published by Anavasi (% ; Stoa Arsakiou 6a, Athens). The durable plasticised paper is the main advantage, plus the detailed walking trails for many of the Aegean islands. Finally the yellow and blue maps published by Emvelia (% ; Navarinou 12, Athens) are also detailed, though the paper is of a poorer quality. Their main advantage is the handy index booklet with each map, many of which have excellent plans of the region s main towns. All maps can be bought online or at major bookstores in Greece. MONEY Greece has been using the euro currency since the beginning of 2002, exactly one year after the Greek drachma (dr) went into the euro-currency basket, fixed at a rate of dr to 1. There are eight euro coins, in denominations of two and one euros, then 50, 20, 10, five, two and one cents, and six notes: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200. See inside the front cover for currency exchange rates and p20 for information on costs in Greece. ATMs ATMs are to be found in every town large enough to support a bank and certainly in all the tourist areas. If you ve got MasterCard or Visa/Access, there are plenty of places to withdraw money. Cirrus and Maestro users can make withdrawals in all major towns and tourist areas. Automated foreign exchange machines are common in major tourist areas. They take all the major European currencies, Australian and US dollars and Japanese yen, and are useful in an emergency. Note that they charge a hefty commission, though. Cash Nothing beats cash for convenience or for risk. If you lose cash, it s gone for good and very few travel insurers will come to your rescue. Those that will normally limit the amount to approximately US$300. It s best to carry no more cash than you need for the next few days, which means working out your likely needs whenever you change travellers cheques or withdraw cash. It s also a good idea to set aside a small amount of cash, say US$100, as an emergency stash. Note that Greek shopkeepers and small business owners have a perennial problem with small change. They rarely have any! If buying small items it is better to tender coin or small denomination notes as the seller will inevitably never have any change. Credit Cards The great advantage of credit cards is that they allow you to pay for major items without carrying around great wads of cash. Credit cards are now an accepted part of the commercial scene in Greece just about everywhere. They can be used to pay for a wide range of goods and services such as meals (in better restaurants) and accommodation, car hire and souvenirs. The main credit cards are MasterCard, Visa (Access in the UK) and Eurocard, all of which are widely accepted in Greece. They can also be used as cash cards to draw cash from the ATMs of affiliated Greek banks in the same way as at home. Daily withdrawal limits are set by the issuing bank. Cash advances are given in local currency only. Credit cards can be used to pay for accommodation in all the smarter hotels. Some C-class hotels will accept credit cards, but D- and E-class hotels rarely do. The main charge cards are American Express and Diners Club, which are widely accepted in tourist areas but unheard of elsewhere. Tipping In restaurants a service charge is normally included in the bill and while a tip is not expected (as it is in North America), it is always appreciated and should be left if the service has been good. Taxi drivers normally expect you to round up the fare, while bellhops who help you with your luggage to your hotel room DIRECTORY

373 728 DIRECTORY Photography & Video DIRECTORY Shopping 729 DIRECTORY or stewards on ferries who take you to your cabin normally expect a small gratuity of between 1 and 3. Travellers Cheques The main reason to carry travellers cheques rather than cash is the protection they offer against theft. They are, however, losing popularity as more and more travellers opt to put their money in a bank at home and withdraw it at ATMs as they go. American Express, Visa and Thomas Cook cheques are all widely accepted and have efficient replacement policies. Maintaining a record of the cheque numbers and recording when you use them is vital when it comes to replacing lost cheques keep this separate from the cheques themselves. US dollars are a good currency to use. PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO Film & Equipment Digital photography has taken over in a big way in Greece and a range of memory cards can now be bought from camera stores. Film is still widely available, although it can be expensive in smaller towns. You ll find all the gear you need in the photography shops of Athens and major cities. In Greece, it is possible to obtain video cassettes in larger towns and cities, but be sure to buy the correct format. It is usually worth buying at least a few cassettes duty-free to start off your trip. Photography Because of the brilliant sunlight in summer, you ll get better results using a polarising lens filter. As elsewhere in the world, developing film is a competitive business. Most places charge around 9 to develop a roll of 36 colour prints. Some shops, or even computer shops, can burn your digital images to compact disk for you if you are running out of storage space on your memory card. Lonely Planet s Travel Photography: A Guide to Taking Better Pictures by respected photographer Richard I Anson offers a comprehensive guide to technical and creative travel photography. Restrictions & Etiquette Never photograph a military installation or anything else that has a sign forbidding photography. Flash photography is not allowed inside churches, and it s considered taboo to photograph the main altar. Greeks usually love having their photos taken but always ask permission first. The same goes for video cameras, probably even more annoying and offensive for locals than a still camera. At archaeological sites you will be stopped from using a tripod as it marks you as a professional. Video Properly used, a video camera can give a fascinating record of your holiday. As well as videoing the obvious things sunsets, spectacular views remember to record some of the ordinary everyday details of life in the country. Often the most interesting things occur when you re actually intent on filming something else. Make sure you keep the batteries charged, and have the necessary charger, plugs and transformer for Greece (for more information, see p715 ). POST Tahydromia (post offices) are easily identifiable by the yellow signs outside. Regular post boxes are also yellow. The red boxes are for express mail only. Postal Rates The postal rate for postcards and airmail letters to all destinations outside Greece is 0.62 for up to 20g; for items up to 50g within the EU it is 0.90 and 1 outside the EU. Post within Europe takes between four and six days and to the USA, Australia and New Zealand, seven to 10 days. Some tourist shops also sell stamps, but with a 10% surcharge. Registered mail costs an extra 2.50 and should ensure delivery in three days within the EU. Receiving Mail You can receive mail poste restante (general delivery) at any main post office. The service is free, but you are required to show your passport. Ask senders to write your family name in capital letters and underline it, and also to mark the envelope poste restante. It is a good idea to ask the post office clerk to check under your first name as well if letters you are expecting cannot be located. After one month, uncollected mail is returned to the sender. If you are about to leave a town and expected mail hasn t arrived, ask at the post office to have it forwarded to your next destination, c/o poste restante. Both Athens Central post office ( p109 ) and Syntagma Post Office ( p109 ), also in Athens, hold poste restante mail. Parcels are not delivered in Greece; they must be collected from the parcel counter of a post office. Sending Mail Do not wrap a parcel until it has been inspected at a post office. In Athens, take your parcel to the Syntagma Post Office ( p109 ), and elsewhere to the parcel counter of a regular post office. SHOPPING Shopping in Greece for Greeks and visitors alike is big business. At times a tourist town can look like one big shop with all kinds of goods and trinkets on display. The trouble is a lot of it is overpriced and of inferior quality; the moral of the story is don t shop in tourist areas. That said Athens Flea Market ( p144 ) has a bewildering array of items on sale and you can find some good bargains. Shoes and clothes are excellent buys, especially in the post-seasonal sales, and if you have room in your suitcase or backpack there are some really excellent quality artisanal works to be picked up from small boutiques and galleries, including pottery, jewellery and metal-worked objets. Bargaining Getting a bit extra off the deal through bargaining is sadly a thing of the past in Greece. You might be offered a special deal but the art and sport of bargaining per se has gone the way of the drachma: out the window. Instead, know your goods and decide for yourself if the price you are being offered is worth it before accepting the deal. SOLO TRAVELLERS Greece is a great destination for solo travellers, especially in summer when the Greek islands become an international meeting point. Hostels and other backpacker-friendly accommodation are good places to meet up with other solo travellers. Dining solo in restaurants is not an issue with restaurant owners and there are no real disadvantages to travelling solo other than that you are unlikely to stay solo for long. TELEPHONE The Greek telephone service is maintained by the public corporation known as OTE (pronounced o-teh; Organismos Tilepikoinonion Ellados). The system is modern and reasonably well maintained. There are public telephones just about everywhere, including in some unbelievably isolated spots. The phones are easy to operate and can be used for local, long distance and international calls. The i at the top left of the push-button dialling panel brings up the operating instructions in English. All public phones use phonecards not coins. Note that in Greece the area code must always be dialled when making a call (ie all Greek phone numbers are 10-digit). Mobile Phones The number of mobile phones in Greece now exceeds the number of landline phones. Mobile telephony is big business here. If you have a compatible GSM mobile phone from a country with an overseas global roaming arrangement with Greece, you will be able to use your phone in Greece. You must inform your mobile phone service provider before you depart in order to have global roaming activated. There are several mobile service providers in Greece among which Panafon, CosmOTE and Wind are the best known. All offer 2G connectivity. Of these three, CosmOTE tends to have the best coverage in remote areas, so try re-tuning your phone to CosmOTE if you find mobile coverage is patchy. All three companies offer pay-as-you-talk services by which you can buy a rechargeable SIM card and have your own Greek mobile number. The Panafon system is called à la Carte, the Wind system F2G and CosmOTE is Cosmokarta. USA and Canadian mobile phone users won t be able to use their mobile phones, unless their handset is equipped with a dual or tri-band system. Note: the use of a mobile phone while driving in Greece is prohibited, but the use of a Bluetooth headset is allowed. Phonecards All public phones use OTE phonecards, known as telekarta, not coins. These cards ( 3, 5 and 9) are widely available at periptera, corner shops and tourist shops. A local call costs 0.30 for three minutes. DIRECTORY

374 730 DIRECTORY Time DIRECTORY Travellers with Disabilities 731 DIRECTORY It s also possible to use these phones using a growing range of discount-card schemes, which involve dialling an access code and then punching in your card number. The OTE version of this card is known as Hronokarta. The cards come with instructions in Greek and English. The talk time is enormous compared to the standard phone card rates. Definitely consider. TIME Greece maintains one time zone throughout the country and is two hours ahead of GMT/ UTC and three hours ahead on daylightsaving time which begins on the last Sunday in March, when clocks are put forward one hour. Daylight saving ends on the last Sunday in October. For a rundown of current world times, see the World Time Zone map (pp786 7). TOILETS Most places in Greece have Western-style toilets, especially hotels and restaurants that cater for tourists. You ll occasionally come across Asian-style squat toilets in older houses, kafeneia and public toilets. Public toilets are a rarity, except at airports and bus and train stations. Cafés are the best option if you get caught short, but you ll be expected to buy something for the privilege. One peculiarity of the Greek plumbing system is that it can t handle toilet paper; apparently the pipes are too narrow. Whatever the reason, anything larger than a postage stamp seems to cause a problem; flushing away tampons and sanitary napkins is guaranteed to block the system. Toilet paper etc should be placed in the small bin provided next to every toilet. TOURIST INFORMATION Tourist information is handled by the Greek National Tourist Organization ( known by the initials GNTO abroad and EOT within Greece. Local Tourist Offices The EOT ( p110 ) in Athens dispenses information including a very useful timetable of the week s ferry departures from Piraeus, and details about public transport prices and schedules from Athens. Its free map of Athens is urgently in need of an update, although most places of interest are clearly marked. The office is about 500m from Ambelokipi metro station. EOT offices can be found in major tourist locations, though they are increasingly being supplemented or even replaced by local municipality tourist offices. Tourist Offices Abroad GNTO offices abroad: Australia (% /5; hto@tpg.com.au; Pitt St, Sydney NSW 2000) Austria (% ; grect@vienna.at; Opernring 8, Vienna A-10105) Belgium (% ; gnto@skynet.be; 172 Ave Louise Louizalaan, B1050 Brussels) Canada Toronto (% ; gnto.tor@sympatico.ca; 91 Scollard St, Toronto, Ontario M5R 1G4); Montreal (% ; 1170 Place Du Frere Andre, Montreal, Quebec H3B 3C6) Denmark (% ; Vester Farimagsgade 1, 1606 Copenhagen) France (% ; eot@club-internet.fr; 3 Ave de l Opéra, Paris 75001) Germany Berlin (% ; Wittenbergplatz 3a, Berlin 30); Frankfurt (% ; info@gzf-eot.de; Neue Mainzerstrasse 22, Frankfurt); Hamburg (% ; info-hamburg@gzf-eot.de; Neurer Wall 18, Hamburg); Munich (% /036; Pacellistrasse 5, 2W Munich) Israel (% ; hellenic@netvision.net.il; 5 Shalom Aleichem St, Tel Aviv 61262) Italy Rome (% ; Via L Bissolati 78-80, Roma); Milan (% ; Piazza Diaz 1, Milano) Japan (% ; gnto-jpn@t3.rim.or.jp; Fukuda Bldg West, 5F Akasaka, Minato-Ku, Tokyo 107) Netherlands (% ; gnto@planet.nl; Kerkstraat 61, Amsterdam GC 1017) Sweden (% ; grekiska.statens.turistbyra@swipnet.se; Birger Jarlsgatan 30, Box 5298 S, Stockholm) Switzerland (% ; eot@bluewin.ch; Loewenstrasse 25, 8001 Zürich) UK (% ; 4 Conduit St, London W1R ODJ) USA Chicago (% ; Suite 600, 168 North Michigan Ave, Chicago, Illinois 60601); Los Angeles (% ; Suite 2198, 611 West 6th St, Los Angeles, California 92668); New York (% ; Olympic Tower, 645 5th Ave, New York, NY 10022) Tourist Police The tourist police work in cooperation with the regular Greek police and EOT. Each tourist police office has at least one member of staff who speaks English. Hotels, restaurants, travel agencies, tourist shops, tourist guides, waiters, taxi drivers and bus drivers all come under the jurisdiction of the tourist police. If you think that you have been ripped off by any of these, report it to the tourist police and they will investigate. If you need to report a theft or loss of passport, then go to the tourist police first, and they will act as interpreters between you and the regular police. The tourist police also fulfil the same functions as the EOT and municipal tourist offices, dispensing maps and brochures, and giving information on transport. They can often help to find accommodation. TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES If mobility is a problem and you wish to visit Greece, the hard fact is that most hotels, museums and ancient sites in Greece are not wheelchair accessible. This is partly due to the uneven terrain of much of the country, which presents a challenge even for able-bodied people, with its abundance of stones, rocks and marble. Visually or hearing impaired people will not find much help in Greece as the current infrastructure has not seriously tackled their needs yet. If you are determined, then take heart in the knowledge that disabled people do come to Greece for holidays. But the trip needs careful planning, so get as much information as you can before you go. The British-based Royal Association for Disability & Rehabilitation (Radar; % ; 12 City Forum, 250 City Rd, London EC1V 8AF) publishes a useful guide called Holidays & Travel Abroad: A Guide for Disabled People, which gives a good overview of facilities available to disabled travellers in Europe. VISAS The list of countries whose nationals can stay in Greece for up to three months without a visa includes Australia, Canada, all EU countries, Iceland, Israel, Japan, New Zealand, Norway, Switzerland and the USA. Other countries included are the European principalities of Monaco and San Marino and most South American countries. The list changes contact Greek embassies for the full list. Those not included can expect to pay about US$20 for a three-month visa. Visa Extensions If you wish to stay in Greece for longer than three months, apply at a consulate abroad or at least 20 days in advance to the Aliens Bureau (Map pp106-7 ;% ; Leoforos Alexandras 173; h8am-1pm Mon-Fri) in the Athens Central Police Station. Take your passport and four passport photographs along. You may be asked for proof that you can support yourself financially, so keep all your bank exchange slips (or the equivalent from a post office). These slips are not always automatically given you may have to ask for them. Elsewhere in Greece apply to the local police authority. You will be given a permit that will authorise you to stay in the country for a period of up to six months. Most travellers get around this by visiting Bulgaria or Turkey briefly and then reentering Greece. WOMEN TRAVELLERS Many women travel alone in Greece. The crime rate remains relatively low and solo travel is probably safer than in most European countries. This does not mean that you should be lulled into complacency; bag snatching and rapes do occur, although violent offences are rare. The biggest nuisance to foreign women travelling alone are the guys the Greeks have nicknamed kamaki. The word means fishing trident and refers to the kamaki s favourite pastime: fishing for foreign women. You ll find them everywhere there are lots of tourists; young (for the most part), smooth-talking guys who aren t in the least bashful about sidling up to women in the street. They can be very persistent, but they are a hassle rather than a threat. The majority of Greek men treat foreign women with respect, and are genuinely helpful. WORK EU nationals don t need a work permit, but they need a residency permit and a Greek tax file number if they intend to stay longer than three months. Nationals of other countries are supposed to have a work permit. Bar & Hostel Work The bars of the Greek islands could not survive without foreign workers and there are thousands of summer jobs up for grabs every year. The pay is not fantastic, but you get to spend a summer in the islands. April and May are the times to go looking. Hostels and trav- DIRECTORY

375 732 DIRECTORY Work DIRECTORY ellers hotels are other places that regularly employ foreign workers. English Tutoring If you re looking for a permanent job, the most widely available option is to teach English. A TEFL (Teaching English as a Foreign Language) certificate or a university degree is an advantage but not essential. In the UK, look through the Times educational supplement or Tuesday s edition of the Guardian newspaper for opportunities in other countries, contact the Greek embassy. Another possibility is to find a job teaching English once you are in Greece. You will see language schools everywhere. Strictly speaking, you need a licence to teach in these schools, but many will employ teachers without one. The best time to look around for such a job is late summer. The notice board at the Compendium ( p99 ) in Athens sometimes has advertisements looking for private English lessons. Street Performers The richest pickings are to be found on the islands, particularly Mykonos, Paros and Santorini. Plaka is the place to go in Athens; the area outside the church on Kydathineon is the most popular spot. Volunteer Work The Hellenic Society for the Study & Protection of the Monk Seal (Map pp104-5 ; % ; fax ; Solomou 53, Athens) and the Sea Turtle Protection Society of Greece (Map pp104-5 ; %/fax ; Solomou 57, Athens) use volunteers for the monitoring programmes they run on the Ionian Islands and the Peloponnese. The Hellenic Wildlife Hospital (Elliniko Kentro Perithalpsis Agrion Zoon; % ; in Greek; h11am-1pm) in Aegina welcomes volunteers, particularly during the winter months. The new centre has also accommodation available for volunteer workers. For more information, see Eco Saronics, p355. Other Work There are often jobs advertised in the classifieds of English-language newspapers, or you can place an advertisement yourself if you wish. EU nationals can also make use of the OAED (Organismos Apasholiseos Ergatikou Dynamikou), which is the Greek National Employment Service, in their search for employement. The OAED has offices throughout the country. Seasonal harvest work is handled by migrant workers from Albania and other Balkan nations, and is no longer a viable option for travellers.

376 733 Tr a n s p o r t CONTENTS Getting There & Away 733 Entering The Country 733 Air 733 Land 736 Sea 737 Getting Around 739 Air 739 Bicycle 739 Boat 740 Bus 743 Car & Motorcycle 744 Hitching 747 Local Transport 747 Tours 747 Train 747 GETTING THERE & AWAY Flights, tours and rail tickets can be booked online at vices. ENTERING THE COUNTRY Visitors to Greece with EU passports are rarely afforded more than a cursory glance. If entering from another EU nation passports are not checked, but customs and police may be interested in what you are carrying. EU citizens may also enter Greece on a national identity card. Some visitors may require a visa to enter the EU so this must be checked with consular authorities before you attempt to enter Greece. For more information on visas, see p731. AIR Most visitors to Greece arrive by air, which is the cheapest and quickest way to get here. Airports & Airlines Greece has 16 international airports, but only those in Athens, Thessaloniki, Rhodes and Iraklio (Crete) take scheduled flights: Athens ( Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport; code ATH; % ; Iraklio (Nikos Kazantzakis International Airport; code HER; % ) Rhodes (Diagoras Airport; code RHO; % ) Thessaloniki (Macedonia International Airport; code SKG; % ) Greece s other international airports are located at Mykonos, Santorini (Thira), Hania (Crete), Iraklio (Crete), Kos, Karpathos, Samos, Skiathos, Hrysoupoli (for Kavala), Aktion (for Lefkada), Kefallonia and Zakynthos. These airports are used exclusively for charter flights, mostly from the UK, Germany and Scandinavia. Charter flights also fly to all of Greece s other international airports. Athens handles the vast majority of flights, including all intercontinental traffic. Thessaloniki has direct flights to Amsterdam, Belgrade, Berlin, Brussels, Cyprus, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, İstanbul, London, Milan, Moscow, Munich, Paris, Stuttgart, Tirana, Vienna and Zürich. AIRLINES FLYING TO/FROM GREECE Olympic Airlines (OA; % ; lines.com) is the country s national airline, and most flights to Athens and Thessaloniki are with Olympic or the flag carrier of the country of departure. Olympic is not Greece s only international airline. Aegean Airlines (A3; % ; flies direct from Athens to Rome and Venice, and via Thessaloniki to Cologne, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Munich and Stuttgart. Iraklio has direct flights to Cyprus with Olympic, while Aegean Airlines flies THINGS CHANGE The information in this chapter is particularly vulnerable to change. Check directly with the airline or a travel agent to make sure you understand how a fare (and ticket you may buy) works and be aware of the security requirements for international travel. Shop carefully. The details given in this chapter should be regarded as pointers and are not a substitute for your own careful, up-to-date research. TRANSPORT

377 734 GETTING THERE & AWAY Air GETTING THERE & AWAY Air 735 TRANSPORT CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL Climate change is a serious threat to the ecosystems that humans rely upon, and air travel is the fastest-growing contributor to the problem. Lonely Planet regards travel, overall, as a global benefit, but believes we all have a responsibility to limit our personal impact on global warming. Flying & Climate Change Pretty much every form of motorised travel generates CO2 (the main cause of human-induced climate change) but planes are far and away the worst offenders, not just because of the sheer distances they allow us to travel, but because they release greenhouse gases high into the atmosphere. The statistics are frightening: two people taking a return flight between Europe and the US will contribute as much to climate change as an average household s gas and electricity consumption over a whole year. Carbon offset schemes Climatecare.org and other websites use carbon calculators that allow travellers to offset the level of greenhouse gases they are responsible for with financial contributions to sustainable travel schemes that reduce global warming including projects in India, Honduras, Kazakhstan and Uganda. Lonely Planet, together with Rough Guides and other concerned partners in the travel industry, support the carbon offset scheme run by climatecare.org. Lonely Planet offsets all of its staff and author travel. For more information check out our website: direct to Paris, Germany and Italy. The safety record of both airlines is exemplary. The contact details for local Olympic and Aegean offices are listed throughout the book. Other airlines with offices in Athens: Aeroflot (code SU; % ; Air Berlin (AB; % ; Air Canada (AC; % ; Air France (AF; % ; Alitalia (AZ; % ; American Airlines (AA; % ; British Airways (BA; % ; ways.com) Cyprus Airways (CY; % ; Delta Airlines (DL; % ; easyjet (U2; % ; EgyptAir (MS; % ; El Al (LY; % ; Emirates Airlines (EK; % ; Gulf Air (GF; % ; Iberia (IB; % ; Japan Airlines (JL; % ; KLM (KL; % ; Lufthansa (LH; % ; Qatar Airways (QR; % ; SAS (SK; % ; Singapore Airlines (SQ; % , ; Thai Airways (TG; % ; Turkish Airlines (TK; % ; lines.com) Virgin Express (TV; % ; Asia Most Asian countries offer fairly competitive deals, with Bangkok, Singapore and Hong Kong the best places to shop around for discount tickets. Khao San Rd in Bangkok is the budget travellers headquarters. Bangkok has a number of excellent travel agencies, but there are also some suspect ones; ask the advice of other travellers. STA Travel (% ; co.th) is a good place to start. In Singapore, STA Travel (% ; www. statravel.com.sg) offers competitive discount fares for most destinations. Singapore, like Bangkok, has hundreds of travel agencies to choose from, so it is possible to compare prices. Chinatown Point shopping centre on New Bridge Rd has a good selection of travel agencies. In Hong Kong, Four Seas Tours (% ; is recommended, as is Shoestring Travel (% ). Australia Two well-known agencies are STA Travel and Flight Centre. STA Travel (% ; has its main office in Melbourne, but also has offices in all major cities and on many university campuses. Call for the location of your nearest branch. Flight Centre (% ; has its central office in Sydney and dozens of offices throughout Australia. Qantas no longer flies direct to Athens, but you could fly via London with a British Airways connection to Athens. Thai Airways and Singapore Airlines both have convenient connections to Athens as do three of the Persian Gulf airlines Emirates, Gulf and Qatar Airways. If you re planning on doing a bit of flying around Europe, it s worth looking around for special deals from the major European airlines, including KLM and Lufthansa. Canada Canada s national student travel agency is Travel CUTS (% ; which has offices in all major cities. For online bookings go to or Olympic Airlines has flights from Toronto to Athens via Montreal. There are no direct flights from Vancouver, but there are connecting flights via Toronto, Amsterdam, Frankfurt and London on Air Canada, KLM, Lufthansa and British Airways. Continental Europe Athens is linked to every major city in Europe by either Olympic Airlines or the flag carrier of each country. London is the discount capital of Europe, but Amsterdam, Frankfurt, Berlin and Paris are also major centres for cheap airfares. France has a network of travel agencies that can supply discount tickets to travellers of all ages. They include OTU Voyages (% ; which has branches across the country. Other recommendations include Voyageurs du Monde (% ; and Nouvelles Frontières (% ; In Germany, STA Travel (% ; has several offices around the country. For online fares, try Just Travel (% ; and Expedia (% ; In the Netherlands, Airfair (% ; and My Travel (% ; are recommended. Cyprus Olympic Airlines and Cyprus Airways share the Cyprus Greece routes. Both airlines have three flights daily from Larnaca to Athens, and there are five flights weekly to Thessaloniki. Cyprus Airways also flies from Pafos to Athens once a week in winter and twice a week in summer, while Olympic has two flights weekly between Larnaca and Iraklio. Turkey Olympic Airlines and Turkish Airlines share the İstanbul Athens route, with at least one flight a day each. There are no direct flights from Ankara to Athens; all flights go via İstanbul. U K Discount air travel is big business in London. Advertisements for many travel agencies appear in the travel pages of the weekend broadsheet newspapers, in Time Out, the Evening Standard and the free magazine TNT. For students or travellers under 26, a popular travel agency in the UK is STA Travel (% ; Other recommended travel agencies in London include Trailfinders (% ; Travel Bag (% ; and ebookers (% ; British Airways and Olympic Airlines operate daily flights between London and Athens. Pricing is very competitive, with all four travel agencies offering return tickets for around UK 200+ in high season, plus tax. At other times, prices fall as low as UK 100, plus tax. The cheapest scheduled flights are with easyjet (% ; the nofrills specialist, which has flights from Luton and Gatwick to Athens. Pricing varies wildly depending on departure days and times. See the website for the current rates. USA STA Travel (% ; has offices in Boston, Chicago, Miami, New York, Philadelphia, San Francisco and other major cities. For online bookings try and TRANSPORT

378 736 GETTING THERE & AWAY Land GETTING THERE & AWAY Sea 737 TRANSPORT New York has the widest range of options to Athens. The route to Europe is very competitive and there are new deals almost every day. Olympic Airlines and Delta Airlines both have direct flights but there are numerous other connecting flights. There are no direct flights to Athens from the west coast. There are, however, connecting flights to Athens from many US cities, either linking with Olympic Airlines in New York or flying with one of the European national airlines to their home country, and then on to Athens. LAND Border Crossings ALBANIA There are four crossing points between Greece and Albania. The main one is at Kakavia, 60km northwest of Ioannina (see p330 ). The other crossings are at Sagiada, 28km north of Igoumenitsa; Mertziani, 17km west of Konitsa; and Krystallopigi, 14km west of Kotas on the Florina Kastoria road. BULGARIA There are three Bulgarian border crossings: one located at Promahonas, 109km northeast of Thessaloniki and 41km from Serres; one at Ormenio in northeastern Thrace; and a new 448m tunnel border crossing at Exohi, 50km north of Drama. FORMER YUGOSLAV REPUBLIC OF MACEDONIA (FYROM) There are three border crossings between Greece and FYROM. These are at Evzoni, 68km north of Thessaloniki; Niki ( p305 ), 16km north of Florina; and Doïrani, 31km north of Kilkis. TURKEY The crossing points are at Kipi ( p319 ), 43km east of Alexandroupoli, and at Kastanies ( p319 ), 139km northeast of Alexandroupoli. Kipi is probably more convenient if you re heading for İstanbul, but the route through Kastanies goes via the fascinating towns of Soufli and Didymotiho in Greece, and Edirne (ancient Adrianoupolis) in Turkey. Albania BUS The Greek Railways Organisation (OSE) operates a daily bus between Athens and Tirana ( 35.20) via Ioannina and Gjirokastra. The bus departs Athens daily from Sidiridromou 1 near the Larisis train station, arriving in Tirana the following day. See the Florina ( p305 ) and Ioannina ( p330 ) sections of the Northern Greece chapter for alternative public transport options to Albania. Bulgaria BUS The OSE operates a bus from Athens to Sofia ( 45.50, 15 hours) at 7am daily except Monday. It also operates Thessaloniki Sofia buses ( 19, 7½ hours, four daily). There is a private bus service to Plovdiv ( 29.50, six hours) and Sofia ( 35.50, seven hours) from Alexandroupoli on Wednesday and Sunday at 8.30am. TRAIN There is a daily train to Sofia from Athens ( 32, 18 hours) via Thessaloniki ( 18, nine hours). From Sofia, there are connections to Budapest ( 68) and Bucharest ( 39). Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia (FYROM) TRAIN There are two trains daily from Thessaloniki to Skopje ( 12, five hours), crossing the border between Idomeni and Gevgelija. They continue from Skopje to the Serbian capital of Belgrade ( 30, 13 hours). There are no trains between Florina and FYROM, although there are one or two trains a day to Skopje from Bitola ( 6, 4½ hours) on the FYROM side of the border. Russia TRAIN There is one summer-only train service a week from Thessaloniki to Moscow. It departs Thessaloniki at 7.42am on Sunday and arrives in Moscow at 5.26am on Wednesday. It departs Moscow for the return trip at 11.32pm on the same day. The cost is for a berth in a three-bed cabin. Turkey BUS The OSE operates a bus from Athens to İstanbul (22 hours) daily except Wednesday, leaving the former Peloponnese train station in Athens in the evening and travelling via Thessaloniki (seven hours) and Alexandroupoli (13 hours). One-way fares are from Athens, 44 from Thessaloniki and 15 from Alexandroupoli. Students qualify for a 20% discount and children under 12 travel for half-price. See each city s Getting There & Away sections for information on where to buy tickets. Buses from İstanbul to Athens leave the Anadolu Terminal (Anatolia Terminal) at the Topkapı otogar (bus station) at 10am daily except Sunday. TRAIN There are no direct trains between Athens and İstanbul. Travellers must take a train to Thessaloniki and connect with one of two daily services running to the Turkish city. The best option is the Filia Tostluk Express service, leaving Thessaloniki at 8pm ( 48.25, 11½ hours) and arriving in İstanbul at 7.30am. The other service is the indirect Intercity IC90 service to Orestiada leaving Thessaloniki at 7am; passengers for İstanbul change at Pythio on the Greece Turkey border. Western Europe Overland travel between Western Europe and Greece is nowadays usually confined to heading to an Italian port and picking up the most geographically convenient ferry. The route through Croatia, Serbia and the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, while quite feasible, is outweighed by the convenience of a minicruise from an Italian port to one of Greece s two main entry ports, and the avoidance of fuel and hotel costs on the trip down through the Balkan peninsula. BUS There are no bus services to Greece from the UK, nor from anywhere else in northern Europe. Bus companies can no longer compete with cheap airfares. CAR & MOTORCYCLE Most intending drivers these days drive to an Italian port and take a ferry to Greece. The most convenient port is Venice, with Ancona coming a close second. The route through Croatia, Serbia and the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia takes, on average, 2½ days from Venice to Athens, whereas a high-speed ferry from Venice to Patra can be completed in around 26 hours. From Patra to Athens is a further 3½ hours driving. TRAIN Unless you have a Eurail pass or are aged under 26 and are eligible for a discounted fare, travelling to Greece by train is expensive. Indeed, the chances of anyone wanting to travel from London to Athens by train are considered so remote that it s no longer possible to buy a single ticket for this journey. The trip involves travelling from London to Paris on the Eurostar, followed by Paris to Brindisi, then a ferry from Brindisi to Patra and finally a train from Patra to Athens. Greece is part of the Eurail network. Eurail passes can only be bought by residents of non- European countries and are supposed to be purchased before arriving in Europe. They can, however, be bought in Europe as long as your passport proves that you ve been here for less than six months. In London, head for the Rail Europe Travel Centre (% ; 179 Piccadilly). Check the Eurail website ( for full details of passes and prices. If you are starting your European travels in Greece, you can buy your Eurail pass from the OSE office at Karolou 1-3 in Athens, and at the stations in Patra and Thessaloniki. Greece is also part of the Inter-Rail Pass system, available to those who have resided in Europe for six months or more. See the Inter-Rail website ( for details. SEA Albania Corfu-based Petrakis Lines (% ; has daily hydrofoils to the Albanian port of Saranda ( 15, 25 minutes). Cyprus & Israel Passenger services from Greece to Cyprus and Israel have been suspended indefinitely. Salamis Lines ( still operates the route, but carries only vehicles and freight. Italy There are ferries to Greece from the Italian ports of Ancona, Bari, Brindisi and Venice. For more information about these services, see the Patra ( p166 ), Igoumenitsa ( p345 ), Corfu ( p680 ) and Kefallonia ( p701 ) sections. The ferries can get very crowded in summer. If you want to take a vehicle across it s a good idea to make a reservation beforehand. In the UK, reservations can be made on almost TRANSPORT

379 738 GETTING THERE & AWAY Sea GETTING AROUND Air 739 TRANSPORT all of these ferries through Viamare Travel Ltd (% ; You ll find all the latest information about ferry routes, schedules and services online. For an overview try Most of the ferry companies have their own websites: Agoudimos Lines ( ANEK Lines ( Blue Star Ferries ( Fragline ( Hellenic Mediterranean Lines ( Italian Ferries ( Minoan Lines ( Superfast Ferries ( Ventouris Ferries ( The following ferry services are for high season (July and August), and prices are for oneway deck class. On these services, deck class means exactly that. If you want a reclining, aircraft-type seat, you ll be up for another 10% to 15% on top of the listed fares. All companies offer discounts for return travel. Prices are about 30% less in the low season. ANCONA This route has become increasingly popular in recent years. There is at least one boat a day year-round, and can be up to three boats daily in summer. All ferry operators in Ancona have booths at the stazione marittima (ferry terminal) off Piazza Candy, where you can pick up timetables and price lists and make bookings. Blue Star Ferries and Superfast Ferries have two boats daily, taking 19 hours direct to Patra, or 21 hours via Igoumenitsa. Both charge between 60 and 70, and also sell tickets through Morandi & Co (% ; Via XXIX Settembre 2/0). Superfast accepts Eurail passes. ANEK Lines (% ; Via XXIX Settembre 2/0; per person 74) does the trip daily in 21 hours via Igoumenitsa. BARI Superfast Ferries (% ; Corso de Tullio 6) has daily sailings to Patra via Corfu and Igoumenitsa and also accepts Eurail passes. Ventouris Ferries (% ; Stazione Marittima) has daily boats to Corfu (10 hours) and Igoumenitsa (11½ hours) for 53. BRINDISI The trip from Brindisi was once the most popular crossing, but it now operates only between April and early October. Hellenic Mediterranean Lines (% ; Costa Morena) offers services to Patra, calling at Igoumenitsa on the way. It also has services that call at Corfu, Kefallonia, Paxi and Zakynthos. All these services cost 50, and Eurail passes are accepted. Agoudimos Lines (% ; Via Provinciale per Lecce 29) sails only to Igoumenitsa ( 56 high season). SNAV ( operates high-speed catamaran services to Corfu ( 40 to 85, 4½ hours) and Paxi ( 60 to 150, 5¾ hours) daily from July to mid-september. VENICE Minoan Lines (% ; Stazione Marittima 123) has boats to Patra ( 74, 29 hours) four times weekly, calling at Corfu and Igoumenitsa. Blue Star Ferries (% ; Stazione Marittima 123) sails the route four times weekly for 64. Turkey There are five regular ferry services between Turkey s Aegean coast and the Greek islands. Tickets for all ferries to Turkey must be bought a day in advance. You will almost certainly be asked to turn in your passport the night before the trip, but don t worry, you ll get it back the next day before you board the boat. Port tax for departures to Turkey is 9. See the relevant sections under individual island entries for more information about the following services. CHIOS There are daily Çeşme Chios boats from July to September, dropping back to two boats a week in winter. Tickets cost 22/25 one way/ return. Port tax is extra. KOS There are daily ferries in summer to Kos from Bodrum (ancient Halicarnassus) in Turkey. The one-hour journey costs 34. Port tax is extra. LESVOS There are two boats weekly from Turkey to Greece on this route in high season. Tickets cost 35 one way, including port taxes. RHODES There are daily catamarans to Rhodes from Marmaris from June to September, dropping back to maybe only three or four services a week in winter. Tickets cost 31 one way, plus 19 Turkish departure tax. In addition there is a weekly passenger and car ferry service on Friday. The cost of ferrying a car to/from the Turkish mainland is 95 one way, while passengers pay 49 including taxes. Return rates usually work out cheaper. SAMOS There are two boats daily to Kuşadası (for Ephesus) from Samos in summer, dropping to one or two boats weekly in winter. Tickets cost 47 return, 37 one-way. Port tax is 10. In addition to these services, see the Kastellorizo ( p544 ) and Symi ( p547 ) sections of the Dodecanese chapter for information about excursion boats to Turkey. GETTING AROUND Greece is an easy place to travel around thanks to a comprehensive public transport system. Buses are the mainstay of land transport, with a network that reaches out to the smallest villages. Trains are a good alternative, where available. To most visitors, though, travelling in Greece means island-hopping on the multitude of ferries that crisscross the Adriatic and the Aegean. If you re in a hurry, Greece also has an extensive domestic air network. The information in this chapter was recorded in the 2007 high season. You ll find lots of travel information on the internet. The website is a useful site with lots of links, including airline timetables. AIR Airlines in Greece The vast majority of domestic flights are handled by the country s national carrier, Olympic Airlines (% ; together with its offshoot, Olympic Aviation. Olympic has offices wherever there are flights, as well as in other major towns. The prices listed in this book are for fullfare economy, and include domestic taxes and charges. Olympic also offers cheaper options between Athens and some of the more popular destinations such as Corfu, Iraklio, Lesvos, Rhodes and Thessaloniki. There are discounts for return tickets for travel between Monday and Thursday, and bigger discounts for trips that include a Saturday night away. You ll find full details on its website, as well as information on timetables. The baggage allowance on domestic flights is 15kg, or 20kg if the domestic flight is part of an international journey. Olympic offers a 25% student discount on domestic flights, but only if the flight is part of an international journey. For more information on Olympic s domestic routes see p144. Crete-based Aegean Airlines (% , ; offers flights from Athens to Alexandroupoli, Corfu, Hania, Ioannina, Iraklio, Kavala, Lesvos, Mykonos, Rhodes, Santorini and Thessaloniki; from Thessaloniki to Iraklio, Lesvos, Mykonos, Rhodes and Santorini; and from Iraklio to Rhodes. Full-fare economy fares cost much the same as those of Olympic, but Aegean often has special deals. It offers a 20% youth discount for travellers under 26, and a similar discount for the over 60s. There is a comprehensive and useful website for Athens Eleftherios Venizelos Airport at AirSea Lines (% ; is a seaplane service that runs flights between Corfu and Paxi, Lefkada, Ithaki and Patra. It also runs a service between Lavrio in Attica and Kos in the Dodecanese via Mykonos and Kalymnos. Sky Express (% ; has daily flights from Iraklio to Rhodes and Santorini and up to three flights a week from Iraklio to Mytilini, Kos, Samos and Ikaria. BICYCLE Cycling has not caught on yet in Greece, which isn t surprising considering the hilly terrain. Tourists are beginning to cycle in Greece, but you ll need strong leg muscles. There is no inherent danger in cycling here even in Athens, if you are an experienced pedal pusher but bike lanes are rare to nonexistent (and helmets apparently are not compulsory). Drivers of vehicles are generally as courteous to cyclists as anywhere else. The island of Kos is about the most bicycle-friendly place in Greece, as is anywhere flat like the plains of Thessaly or Thrace. Greece-based outfits such as Cycle Greece (% ; fax , Falirou 15, Athens) run driver-accompanied cycling tours of Greece such as Sacred Sites & Spas ( 2016, eight days) or Cycle Cyclades ( 3925, 12 days). TRANSPORT

380 740 GETTING AROUND Boat GETTING AROUND Boat 741 TRANSPORT Hire You can hire bicycles in most tourist places, but they are not as widely available as cars and motorcycles. Prices range from 5 to 12 per day, depending on the type and age of the bike. Purchase Bicycles are carried free on ferries. You can buy decent mountain or touring bikes in Greece s major towns, though you may have a problem finding a ready buyer if you wish to on-sell it. Bike prices are much the same as across the rest of Europe, anywhere from 300 to BOAT Greece has a vast and complex ferry network covering every inhabited island. Services are more frequent from May to October and drop back to often quite limited services in between. The fleet is changing and travel is now quite comfortable (for more details see A Sea Change, below ). Catamaran High-speed catamarans have become an important part of the island travel scene. They are just as fast as hydrofoils if not faster and more comfortable. They are also less prone to cancellation in rough weather. Fares are the same as for hydrofoils. Hellenic Seaways is the major player. It operates giant, vehicle-carrying cats from Piraeus and Rafina to the Cyclades, and smaller Flying Cats from Rafina to the central and northern Cyclades and on many routes around the Saronic Gulf. Blue Star Ferries operates its Seajet catamarans on the run from Rafina to Tinos, Mykonos and Paros. Dodekanisos Seaways (Map p522 ; % ; Afstralias 3) runs two luxurious Norwegian-built passenger catamarans between Rhodes and Patmos in the Dodecanese. Most services are very popular; book as far in advance as possible, especially if you want to travel on weekends. Ferry For most people, travel in Greece means island-hopping. Every island has a ferry service of some sort, although in winter services to some of the smaller islands are fairly skeletal. Services start to pick up again from April onwards, and by July and August there are countless services crisscrossing the Aegean. Ferries come in all shapes and sizes, from the giant superferries that work the A SEA CHANGE Following the sinking of the F/B Express Samina off Paros on 26 September 2000, and the subsequent tragic loss of 82 human lives, Greece s domestic ferry scene has undergone a radical transformation. Almost gone are the days of slow rust buckets that made Greek domestic ferry travel an experience to endure rather than enjoy. Sure, there are still a number of slow boats pounding the sea routes between islands and they are fun in an almost anachronistic way especially if you have time but you can now travel in serious comfort if you want to arrive at your island relaxed and rested. The sleek, fast ferries and catamarans are more like planes these days. They offer first-, business- and traveller-class seating, no-smoking sections (!), videos, cafeterias and bars. However, there is a trade-off. You are essentially seat-bound (on catamarans) for the duration of your trip as there are no decks to stroll on, no swimming pools to dip into and no benches to park a sleeping bag on. (The superfast ferries do not confine you to a seat though they do have less outside deck space.) The high-speed ferries such as those run by Minoan Lines and Blue Star Ferries are a better option. They offer all of the above, but are more like conventional ferries. Not as fast as the catamarans, they are still very fast and make travel from one end of the Aegean to the other a breeze. Sea travel can now be quite expensive, especially if you want a bed for the night in a cabin. The cost of a cabin bed from Piraeus to Rhodes can be noticeably more expensive than a discounted airline ticket. However, if you long for the old days, you can still find the smoke-filled cafeterias with three TVs all showing different programmes; the insalubrious bathrooms; and the chug-a-lug voyages across the seas just choose carefully. The sea change afoot in Greek waters means that those experiences will soon be limited to travellers memories only. major routes to the small, ageing, open ferries that chug around the backwaters. The main ferry companies in Greece: ANEK (% ; Blue Star Ferries (% ; ferries.com) GA Ferries (% ; Hellenic Seaways (% ; seaways.gr) LANE Lines (% ; Minoan Lines (% ; NEL Lines (% ; CLASSES Classes are largely a thing of the past. The public spaces on the more modern ferries are generally open to all and sundry. What does FERRY ROUTES A L B A N I A To Italy Corfu Paxi Ithaki Corfu Town Argostoli Lefkada Kefallonia Zakynthos IONIAN ISLANDS Igoumenitsa I O N I A N S E A EPIROS F O R M E R Y U G O S L A V R E P U B L I C O F M A C E D O N I A Meganisi Mytikas Astakos Kyllini Zakynthos Town G R E E C E M E D I T E R R A N E A N S E A STEREA ELLADA MACEDONIA Thessaloniki THESSALY Volos Agios Konstantinos Skiathos Kavala Alonnisos Skopelos Skyros differ is the level of accommodation. Your deck class ticket typically gives you access to the deck and interior with no accommodation option. Next up, aeroplane-type seats give you a reclining seat in which to relax and hopefully sleep. Then come various shades of cabin accommodation: four-berth, three-berth or two-berth interior cabins are cheaper than their equivalent outside cabins with a porthole. Then there are luxury cabins with a view to the front of the ship, and which resemble standard cruise-ship cabins. Deck class remains an economical way to travel, while a luxury cabin ticket will inevitably cost more than an airline ticket to the same destination. On the deck you can usually pitch a sleeping bag and pillow; in a cabin you will THRACE Limenas Myrina Agios Efstratios Alexandroupoli T H R A C I A N Samothraki S E A NORTHEASTERN AEGEAN ISLANDS S E A O F C R E T E Mytilini Kissamos Hania Rethymno Iraklio Paleohora Hora Sfakion Crete Agios Sitia Nikolaos Gavdos Kasos S E A O F M A R M A R A Kymi Psara Evia A E G E A N S E A Chios Chios Patra Town ATHENS Marmari Rafina Karystos Andros Vathy SARONIC Piraeus Lavrio (Samos) GULF ISLANDS Tinos Ikaria Nafplio Kea Mykonos Samos Kythnos Syros Patmos PELOPONNESE Leros Kalamata M Y R T O Ö N Paros Kalymnos Naxos Kos Town Gythio S E A Amorgos Kos Nisyros Neapoli Milos Ios Symi CYCLADES Astypalea Anafi Tilos Rhodes Town Kythira Santorini (Thira) DODECANESE Antikythira B U L G A R I A SPORADES Thasos Limnos Lesvos T U R K E Y Karpathos T U R K E Y Rhodes To Kastellorizo TRANSPORT

381 742 GETTING AROUND Boat GETTING AROUND Bus 743 TRANSPORT sleep in comfort. Many modern high-speed ferries have limited outside deck space so you may find yourself juggling for floor or lounge seat space to sleep. Children under four travel for free, while children between four and 10 pay half-fare. Full fares apply for children over 10. Unless you state otherwise, you will automatically be given deck class when purchasing a ticket. Prices quoted in this book are for deck class tickets. COSTS Prices are fixed by the government, and are determined by the distance of the destination from the port of origin. The small differences in price you may find at ticket agencies are the results of some agencies sacrificing part of their designated commission to qualify as a discount service. The discount is seldom more than Ticket prices include embarkation tax, a contribution to NAT (the seamen s union) and 10% VAT. ROUTES The hub of Greece s ferry network is Piraeus, the port of Athens. Ferries leave here for the Cyclades, the Dodecanese Islands, the Northeastern Aegean Islands, the Saronic Gulf Islands and Crete. Athens second port is Rafina, 70km east of the city and connected by an hourly bus service. It has ferries to the northern Cyclades, Evia, Lesvos and Limnos. The port of Lavrio, in southern Attica, is the main port for ferries to the Cycladic island of Kea. There are regular buses from Athens to Lavrio. Ferries for the Ionian Islands leave from the Peloponnese ports of Patra (for Kefallonia, Ithaki, Paxi and Corfu) and Kyllini (for Kefallonia and Zakynthos); from Astakos (for Ithaki and Kefallonia) and Mytikas (for Lefkada and Meganisi), with both ports in Central Greece (Sterea Ellada); and from Igoumenitsa in Epiros (for Corfu and Paxi). Ferries for the Sporades leave from Volos, Thessaloniki, Agios Konstantinos, and Kymi on Evia (for Skyros only). The latter two ports are easily reached by bus from Athens. Some of the Northeastern Aegean Islands have connections with Thessaloniki and all have connections with Piraeus. The odd ones out are Thasos and Samothraki. Thasos is reached from Kavala, and occasionally from Samothraki; the latter can be reached from Alexandroupoli year-round and also from Kavala in summer. SCHEDULES Ferry timetables change from year to year and season to season, and ferries can be subject to delays and cancellations at short notice due to bad weather, strikes or the boats simply conking out. No timetable is infallible, but the comprehensive weekly list of departures from Piraeus put out by the EOT (Greek National Tourist Organisation) in Athens is as accurate as possible. The people to go to for the most up-to-date ferry information are the local limenarhio (port police), whose offices are usually on or near the quayside. On the internet you ll find lots of information about ferry services. Try which has a useful search programme and links, or Many of the larger ferry companies have their own sites (see p740 ). Throughout the year there is at least one ferry a day from a mainland port to the major island in each group, and during high season (June to mid-september) there are considerably more. Ferries sailing from one island group to another are not so frequent, and if you re going to travel in this way you ll need to plan carefully, otherwise you may end up having to backtrack to Piraeus. Travelling time can vary considerably from one ferry to another, depending on how many islands you decide to visit on the way to your destination. For example, the Piraeus Rhodes trip can take between 15 and 18 hours depending on the route. Before buying your ticket, check how many stops the boat is going to make and its estimated arrival time. It can make a big difference. TICKET PURCHASE Given that ferries are prone to delays and cancellations, it s best not to purchase a ticket until it has been confirmed that the ferry is leaving. If you need to reserve a car space, though, you will inevitably need to book and pay in advance well in advance in high season. If the service is then cancelled you can transfer your ticket to the next available service with that company. Agencies selling tickets line the waterfront of most ports, but rarely is there one that sells tickets for every boat, and often an agency is reluctant to give you information about a boat they do not sell tickets for. This means you have to check the timetables displayed outside each agency to find out which ferry is next to depart or you can ask the port police. High-Speed Ferries These supermodern leviathans can slash travel times on some of the longer routes. NEL Lines (% ; leads the way with its futuristic-looking F/B Panagia Thalassini and Aeolos Kenteris II, which operate from Piraeus to Syros, Tinos, Mykonos, Paros, Naxos, Lavrio, Kythnos and Amorgos. In addition, there is a highspeed service with the F/B Aeolos Kenteris I to Rethymno on Crete. These services cost roughly twice as much as standard ferries. Blue Star Ferries (% ; ferries.com) is almost in the same league as NEL Lines, and its fleet of modern boats serves many destinations in the Cycladic and Dodecanese islands, cutting down travelling time considerably. It charges about 20% more than the regular ferries. Hydrofoil Hydrofoils used to be popular on the Greek transport scene but have seen their heyday come and go. They have been replaced in the main by more comfortable and just as fast catamarans and jet boats. They now just exist in isolation in some of the remoter parts of the Aegean archipelago. Aegean Flying Dolphins (% ), based on Samos, links that island with Kos in the Dodecanese and islands in between. Other hydrofoil routes operate between Kavala and Thasos in the Northeastern Aegean, and from Alexandroupoli to Samothraki and Limnos. Hellenic Seaways operate hydrofoils on some of its Sporades services. Tickets cannot be bought on board hydrofoils you must buy them in advance from an agent. Inter-island Boat In addition to the large ferries that ply between the large mainland ports and island groups, there are smaller boats linking islands within a group, and sometimes linking an island in one group with an island in another. In the past these boats were always caïques sturdy old fishing boats but gradually these are being replaced by new purposebuilt boats, which are usually called express or excursion boats. Some of these are as fast as the larger catamarans or hydrofoils. Tickets tend to cost more than tickets for the large ferries, but the boats are very useful if you re island-hopping. Water Taxi Most islands have water taxis (taxi boats) small speedboats that operate like taxis, transporting people to places that are difficult to get to by land. Some owners charge a set price for each person, others charge a flat rate for the boat, and this cost is divided by the number of passengers. Either way, prices are usually quite reasonable. BUS All long-distance buses, on the mainland and the islands, are operated by regional collectives known as KTEL ( Koino Tamio Eispraxeon Leoforion). Every prefecture on the mainland has a KTEL, which operates local services within the prefecture and to the main towns of other prefectures. Most can be found on the internet at Fares are fixed by the government. The network is comprehensive. With the exception of towns in Thrace, which are serviced by Thessaloniki, all the major towns on the mainland have frequent connections to Athens. The islands of Corfu, Kefallonia and Zakynthos can also be reached directly from Athens by bus the fares include the price of the ferry ticket. The KTEL buses are safe and modern, and these days most are air-conditioned at least on the major routes. Some buses are doubledeckers. In more-remote rural areas they tend to be older and less comfortable. Most villages have a daily bus service of some sort, although remote areas may have only one or two buses a week. They operate for the benefit of people going to town to shop, rather than for tourists. They normally leave the villages very early in the morning and return early in the afternoon. On islands where the capital is inland rather than a port, buses normally meet boats. Some of the more remote islands have not yet acquired a bus, but most have some sort of motorised transport even if it is only a bone-shaking, three-wheeled truck. Larger towns usually have a central, covered bus station with seating, waiting TRANSPORT

382 744 GETTING AROUND Car & Motorcycle GETTING AROUND Car & Motorcycle 745 TRANSPORT rooms, toilets, and a snack bar selling pies, cakes and coffee. It is important to note that big cities like Athens, Iraklio, Patra and Thessaloniki may have more than one bus station, each serving different regions. Make sure you find the correct station for your destination. In small towns and villages the bus station may be no more than a bus stop outside a kafeneio (coffee house) or taverna that doubles as a booking office. In remote areas, the timetable may be in Greek only, but most booking offices have timetables in both Greek and Roman script. The timetables give both the departure and return times useful if you are making a day trip. Times are listed using the 24-hour clock system. When you buy a ticket you will be allotted a seat number, which is noted on the ticket. The seat number is indicated on the back of each seat of the bus, not on the back of the seat in front; this causes confusion among Greeks and tourists alike. You can board a bus without a ticket and pay on board, but on a popular route, or during high season, this may mean that you have to stand. Keep your ticket handy for checking. It s best to turn up at least 20 minutes before departure to make sure you get a seat, and buses have been known to leave a few minutes before their scheduled departure. Buses on less-frequented routes do not usually have toilets on board and they don t have refreshments available, so make sure you are prepared on both counts. Buses stop about every three hours on long journeys. Smoking is prohibited on all buses in Greece. Costs Bus travel is very reasonably priced, with a journey costing approximately 4 per 100km. Some major routes include Athens Thessaloniki ( 31, 7½ hours), Athens Patra ( 16, three hours), Athens Volos ( 20, five hours) and Athens Corfu ( 44 including ferry, 8½ hours). CAR & MOTORCYCLE No-one who has travelled on Greece s roads will be surprised to hear that the country s road fatality rate is the highest in Europe. More than 2000 people die on the roads every year, with overtaking listed as the greatest cause of accidents. Ever-stricter traffic laws have had little impact on the toll; Greek roads remain a good place to practise your defensivedriving techniques. Heart-stopping moments aside, your own car is a great way to explore off the beaten track. The road network has improved enormously in recent years; many roads marked as dirt tracks on older maps have now been asphalted particularly in more remote parts of Epiros and the Peloponnese. It s important to get a good road map (for more information, see p726 ). Almost all islands are served by car ferries, but they are expensive. Sample prices for vehicles up to 4.25m include Piraeus Mykonos, 76; Piraeus Crete (Hania and Iraklio), 79; and Piraeus Samos, 81. The charge for a large motorcycle is about the same as the price for a deck-class passenger ticket. Automobile Associations Greece s domestic automobile association is ELPA (Elliniki Leschi Aftokinitou kai Periigiseon; % ; in Greek; Leoforos Mesogion 395, Agia Paraskevi). Bring Your Own Vehicle EU-registered vehicles are allowed free entry into Greece but may only stay six months without road taxes being due. A green card (international third-party insurance) is all that s required. Your only proof of the date of entry if requested by the police is your ferry ticket if you arrive from Italy, or your passport entry stamp if entering from elsewhere. Non-EU-registered vehicles may be logged in your passport. Driving Licence Greece requires that you possess an International Driving Permit, which should be obtained before you leave home. Fuel & Spare Parts Fuel is available widely throughout the country, though service stations may be closed on weekends and public holidays. Self-service pumps are not the norm in Greece, nor are credit-card pumps, so it is always advisable to keep the reservoir level up just in case. Petrol in Greece is cheaper than in most other European countries, but by American or Australian standards it is expensive. Prices are generally set by the government, but can vary from region to region. Super (leaded) and amolyvdi (unleaded) is always available, as is petreleo kinisis (diesel). Given the unprecedented rises in petrol costs in recent years it s hard to be definite about prices, but in mid-2007 unleaded petrol was around the 1 per litre mark. Diesel is usually cheaper. Spare parts for most Japanese and European cars are available everywhere, though you might have difficulties finding a spare hubcap for a Cadillac or a Hummer. Hire CAR Rental cars are available just about everywhere, but it s best to hire from major cities where competition offers better opportunities to bargain. All the big multinational companies are represented in Athens, and most have branches in major towns and popular tourist destinations. Islands nowadays tend to have a number of outlets. High-season weekly rates with unlimited mileage start at about 280 for the smallest models, such as a Fiat Seicento, dropping to about 200 per week in winter. To these prices must be added VAT of 19%, or 14% on the islands of the Dodecanese, ROAD DISTANCES (KM) Alexandroupoli Athens Corinth Edessa Florina Igoumenitsa Ioannina Kalamata Kastoria Kavala Lamia Larisa Monemvasia Nafplio Patra Pyrgos Sparta Thessaloniki Trikala Tripoli Volos the Northeastern Aegean and the Sporades. There are also optional extras such as a collision damage waiver of 12 per day (more for larger models), without which you will be liable for the first 295 of the repair bill (much more for larger models). Other costs include a theft waiver of at least 6 per day and personal accident insurance. The major companies offer much cheaper prebooked and prepaid rates. You can find better deals at local companies. Their advertised rates can be up to 50% cheaper, and they are normally open to negotiation, especially if business is slow. If you want to take a hire car to another country or onto a ferry, you will need advance written authorisation from the hire company, as the insurance may not cover you. Unless you pay with a credit card, most hire companies will require a minimum deposit of 120 per day. See the Getting Around sections of cities and islands for details of places to rent cars. The minimum driving age in Greece is 18 years, but most car-hire firms require you to be at least 21 or 23 for larger vehicles Alexandroupoli Athens Corinth Edessa Florina Igoumenitsa Ioannina Kalamata Kastoria Kavala Lamia Larisa Monemvasia Nafplio Patra Pyrgos Sparta Thessaloniki Trikala Tripoli Volos TRANSPORT

383 746 GETTING AROUND Car & Motorcycle GETTING AROUND Hitching 747 TRANSPORT Some of the major car-hire players in Greece: Avis (% ; Budget (% ; Europcar (% ; Hertz (% ; See the company websites for their current rates and special offers. MOTORCYCLE Mopeds, motorcycles and scooters are available for hire wherever there are tourists to rent them. Most machines are newish and in good condition. Nonetheless, check the brakes at the earliest opportunity. To hire a moped, motorcycle or scooter you must produce a licence that shows proficiency to ride the category of bike you wish to rent; this applies to everything from 50cc up. British citizens must obtain a Category A licence from the Driver and Vehicle Licensing Agency in the UK (in most other EU countries separate licences are automatically issued). Motorcycles or scooters are a cheap way to travel around. Rates range from 10 to 15 per day for a moped or 50cc motorcycle to 25 per day for a 250cc motorcycle. Out of season these prices drop considerably, so use your bargaining skills. By October it is sometimes possible to hire a moped for as little as 5 per day. Most motorcycle hirers include third-party insurance in the price, but it s wise to check this. This insurance will not include medical expenses. Helmets are compulsory and rental agencies are obliged to offer one as part of the hire deal. Police will book you if you re caught without a helmet. Warning Greece is not the best place to initiate yourself into motorcycling. There are still a lot of gravel roads particularly on the islands. Novices should be very careful; dozens of tourists have accidents every year. Scooters are particularly prone to sliding on gravely bends. Try to hire a motorcycle with thinner profile tyres. If you are planning to use a motorcycle or moped, check that your travel insurance covers you for injury resulting from a motorcycle accident. Many insurance companies don t offer this cover, so check the fine print! Insurance Insurance is always included in any vehicle hire agreements, but you are advised to check whether it is fully comprehensive or third party only. Otherwise you may be up for hefty costs in the event of any damage caused to your vehicle if you are at fault. Road Conditions Main highways in Greece have been improving steadily over the years but are still not up to full steam as far as quality is concerned. The main Athens Thessaloniki motorway is nearing completion while only segments of the Athens Patra motorway are up to international motorway standards. Large parts of this road still retain the two-lane/hard shoulder format of the 1960s road planning mentality and can be confusing, if not outright dangerous, at times. The new Via Egnatia (Egnatia Odos) is being completed in sections with only the Epiros to Macedonia sector still remaining unfinished. Where completed it is very good, but completed sections tend to end abruptly. Road Hazards Slow drivers many of them unsure and hesitant tourists can cause serious traffic events on Greece s roads. Road surfaces can change rapidly when a section of road has succumbed to subsidence or weathering. Snow and ice can be a serious challenge in winter, and drivers are advised to carry snow chains. Animals in rural areas may wander onto roads, so extra vigilance is required. Roads passing through mountainous areas are often littered with fallen rocks that can cause extensive damage to a vehicle s underside or throw a bike rider. Road Rules In Greece, as throughout Continental Europe, you drive on the right and overtake on the left. Outside built-up areas, traffic on a main road has right of way at intersections. In towns, vehicles coming from the right have right of way. Seat belts must be worn in front seats, and in back seats if the car is fitted with them. Children under 12 years of age are not allowed in the front seat. It is compulsory to carry a first-aid kit, fire extinguisher and warning triangle, and it is forbidden to carry cans of petrol. Helmets are compulsory for motorcyclists if the motorcycle is 50cc or more. Outside residential areas the speed limit is 120km/h on highways, 90km/h on other roads and 50km/h in built-up areas. The speed limit for motorcycles up to 100cc is 70km/h and for larger motorcycles, 90km/h. Drivers exceeding the speed limit by 20% are liable to receive a fine of 60; exceeding it by 40% costs 150. In practice, most tourists escape with a warning. The police have also cracked down on drink-driving laws at last. A blood-alcohol content of 0.05% can incur a fine of 150, and over 0.08% is a criminal offence. If you are involved in an accident and noone is hurt, the police will not be required to write a report, but it is advisable to go to a nearby police station and explain what happened. A police report may be required for insurance purposes. If an accident involves injury, a driver who does not stop and does not inform the police may face a prison sentence. HITCHING Hitching is never entirely safe in any country in the world, and we don t recommend it. Travellers who decide to hitch should understand that they are taking a small but potentially serious risk. People who do choose to hitch will be safer if they travel in pairs and should let someone know where they are planning to go. Greece has a reputation for being a relatively safe place for women to hitch, but it is still unwise to do it alone. It s better for a woman to hitch with a companion, preferably a male one. Some parts of Greece are much better for hitching than others. Getting out of major cities tends to be hard work and Athens is notoriously difficult. Hitching is much easier in remote areas and on islands with poor public transport. On country roads it is not unknown for someone to stop and ask if you want a lift, even if you haven t stuck a thumb out. LOCAL TRANSPORT Bus Most Greek towns are small enough to get around on foot. All the major towns have local buses, but the only places you re likely to need them are Athens, Patra, Kalamata and Thessaloniki. The procedure for buying tickets for local buses is covered in the Getting Around section for each city. Metro Athens is the only city in Greece large enough to warrant the building of an underground system. For more details, see p150. Taxi Taxis are widely available in Greece except on very small or remote islands. They are reasonably priced by European standards, especially if three or four people share costs. Yellow city cabs are metered. Flagfall is 0.75, followed by 0.28 per kilometre ( 0.53 per kilometre outside town). These rates double between midnight and 5am. Additional costs are 3 from an airport, 0.80 from a bus, port or train station and 0.30 for each piece of luggage over 10kg. Grey rural taxis do not have meters, so you should always settle on a price before you get in. Many younger taxi drivers now have Sat- Nav systems in their cars, so finding a destination is a breeze as long as you have the exact address. Some taxi drivers in Athens have been known to take unwary travellers for a financial ride. If you have a complaint about a taxi driver, take the cab number and report your complaint to the tourist police. For more information see p110. Taxi drivers in other towns in Greece are, on the whole, friendly, helpful and honest. TOURS Tours are worth considering only if your time is very limited, in which case there are countless companies vying for your money. The major players are CHAT, GO Tours, Hop In Sightseeing, and Key Tours, all based in Athens and offering almost identical tours ( p129 ). They include day trips to Delphi ( 79) and Mycenae and Epidavros ( 130). They also offer longer trips such as a three-day tour to Delphi and Meteora ( 299) and a four-day tour calling at Mycenae, Nafplio, Epidavros, Olympia and Delphi ( 448). These prices include twin-share accommodation and half-board. More adventurous tours include guided activities involving hiking, climbing, whitewater rafting, kayaking, canoeing or canyoning. Alpin Club ( in Athens operates out of Karitena in the Peloponnese, while outfits like Trekking Hellas ( or Robinson Expeditions ( run similar deals in the centre and north of Greece. For information on cycling tours around Greece, see p739. TRAIN Trains are operated by Greek Railways Organisation (Organismos Sidirodromon Ellados; always referred to as the OSE. You ll find TRANSPORT

384 748 GETTING AROUND Train TRANSPORT information on fares and schedules on the website. Information on domestic departures from Athens or Thessaloniki can be sought by calling %1440. The biggest problem with the Greek railway network is that it is so limited. There are essentially only two main lines: the standard gauge service from Athens to Alexandroupoli via Thessaloniki, and the Peloponnese network, which uses a narrow-gauge track. That said, the train is a useful way to get from Patra to Athens if arriving by ferry from Italy, and the round Peloponnese rail ride is an attraction in itself. Trains also run to Kalambaka (Meteora) and the Pelion port of Volos for onward links to the Sporades islands. The services that do exist are of a good standard, and are improving all the time. In fact, the network underwent a major overhaul prior to the Olympic Games. The biggest longer-term changes will be in and around Athens, which is slowly building a new station in the northern suburb of Aharnes to handle all intercity trains. This station, due to open in 2008, will replace the old Larisis station that is currently still part of the suburban train network that links Athens airport with Corinth in the Peloponnese. For more information see p151. The bulk of the Peloponnese will retain its own narrow-gauge system, for the time being. The big difference will be that the Peloponnese network will begin at Corinth, instead of Athens. The major change in the pipeline is the electrification of the line between Athens and Thessaloniki. Classes Despite the proposed changes to rail networks, other features of OSE operations are expected to remain unchanged. There will still be two types of service: regular (slow) trains that stop at all stations, and faster, modern intercity trains that link most major cities. The slow trains represent the country s cheapest form of public transport: 2nd-class fares are absurdly cheap, and even 1st class is cheaper than bus travel. The intercity trains that link the major Greek cities are an excellent way to travel. The services are not necessarily express the Greek terrain is far too mountainous for that but the trains are modern and comfortable. Available are 1st- and 2nd-class smoking/ nonsmoking seats and there is a café-bar on board. On some services, meals can be ordered and delivered to your seat. Costs For a 1st-/2nd-class slow-train trip from Athens to Thessaloniki expect to pay 22/15 (six hours). A trip from Thessaloniki to Alexandroupoli costs 12/8 (eight hours). Ticket prices for intercity services are subject to a distance loading charged on top of the normal fares. Seat reservations should be made as far in advance as possible, especially during summer. Sample 1st-/2nd-class fares: Athens to Thessaloniki 49.50/35.30 (5¼ hours), and Thessaloniki to Alexandroupoli 22/16 (5½ hours). There is an additional nonstop Athens Thessaloniki express service for 63/48 (four hours). A comfortable night service runs between Athens and Thessaloniki, with a choice of couchettes (from 8.60), two-bed compartments ( 42) and single compartments ( 54). Train Passes Eurail and Inter-Rail cards are valid in Greece, but it s not worth buying one if Greece is the only place where you plan to use them. The passes can be used for 2nd-class travel on intercity services without paying the loading. If you re planning on using trains a lot, another option is to buy a tourist rail pass, which is available for individual passengers, as well as for families and groups of up to five people. Passes are valid for 10, 20 or 30 days and entitle the holder to make an unlimited number of journeys on all the rail routes. An individual pass costs for 10 days, for 20 days and for 30 days. Whatever pass you have, you must have a reservation. You cannot board a train without one. Senior cards are available to passengers over 60 years of age on presentation of their IDs or passports. They cost for 1stclass travel and for 2nd class, and are valid for one year from the date of issue. Cardholders get a 50% reduction on train travel, plus five free journeys per year. Tickets can be bought from OSE booking offices in a few major towns, otherwise from train stations. There is a 30% discount on return tickets, and a 30% discount for groups of 10 people or more.

385 749 H e a l t h CONTENTS Before You Go 749 Insurance 749 Recommended Vaccinations 749 Internet Resources 749 In Transit 749 Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT) 749 Jet Lag 749 In Greece 750 Availability & Cost of Health Care 750 Traveller s Diarrhoea 750 Environmental Hazards 750 Travelling wwith Children 751 Women s Health 751 Sexual Health 751 BEFORE YOU GO Prevention is the key to staying healthy while abroad. A little planning before departure, particularly for pre-existing illnesses, will save trouble later. Bring medications in their original, clearly labelled containers. A signed and dated letter from your physician describing your medical conditions and medications, including generic names, is also a good idea. If carrying syringes or needles, be sure to have a physician s letter documenting their medical necessity. If you are embarking on a long trip, make sure your teeth are OK and take your optical prescription with you. INSURANCE If you re an EU citizen, a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC; formerly the E111) covers you for most medical care but not emergency repatriation home or nonemergencies. It is available from health centres, and post offices in the UK. Citizens from other countries should find out if there is a reciprocal arrangement for free medical care between their country and Greece. If you do need health insurance, make sure you get a policy that covers you for the worst possible scenario, such as an accident requiring an emergency flight home. Find out in advance if your insurance plan will make payments directly to providers or reimburse you later for overseas health expenditures. RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS No jabs are required to travel to Greece, but a yellow-fever vaccination certificate is required if you are coming from an infected area. The World Health Organization (WHO) recommends that all travellers should be covered for diphtheria, tetanus, measles, mumps, rubella and polio. INTERNET RESOURCES The WHO s publication International Travel and Health is revised annually and is available online at Other useful websites include (travel health recommendations for every country; updated daily), fortravel.scot.nhs.uk (general travel advice for the layperson), (advice on travel for the elderly) and estopes.org.uk (information on women s health and contraception). IN TRANSIT DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS (DVT) Blood clots may form in the legs during plane flights, chiefly because of prolonged immobility (the longer the flight, the greater the risk). The chief symptom of DVT is swelling or pain of the foot, ankle, or calf, usually but not always on just one side. When a blood clot travels to the lungs, it may cause chest pain and breathing difficulties. Travellers with any of these symptoms should immediately seek medical attention. To prevent the development of DVT on long flights you should walk about the cabin, contract the leg muscles while sitting, drink plenty of fluids and avoid alcohol and tobacco. JET LAG To avoid jet lag drink plenty of nonalcoholic fluids and eat light meals. Upon arrival, get exposure to natural sunlight and readjust HEALTH

386 750 IN GREECE Availability & Cost of Health Care IN GREECE Travelling with Children 751 HEALTH your schedule (for meals, sleep etc) as soon as possible. IN GREECE AVAILABILITY & COST OF HEALTH CARE If you need an ambulance in Greece call %166. There is at least one doctor on every island and larger islands have hospitals. Pharmacies can dispense medicines that are available only on prescription in most European countries, so you can consult a pharmacist for minor ailments. All this sounds fine but, although medical training is of a high standard in Greece, the public health service is badly underfunded. Hospitals can be overcrowded, hygiene is not always what it should be and relatives are expected to bring in food for the patient which could be a problem for a tourist. Conditions and treatment are much better in private hospitals, which are expensive. All this means that a good health-insurance policy is essential. TRAVELLER S DIARRHOEA If you develop diarrhoea, be sure to drink plenty of fluids, preferably in the form of an oral rehydration solution such as dioralyte. If diarrhoea is bloody, persists for more than 72 hours or is accompanied by fever, shaking, chills or severe abdominal pain you should seek medical attention. ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS Bites, Stings & Insect-Borne Diseases Keep an eye out for sea urchins lurking around rocky beaches; if you get some of their needles embedded in your skin, olive oil should help to loosen them. If they are not removed they will become infected. You should also be wary of jellyfish, particularly during the WARNING Codeine, which is commonly found in headache preparations, is banned in Greece; check labels carefully, or risk prosecution. There are strict regulations applying to the importation of medicines into Greece, so obtain a certificate from your doctor that outlines any medication you may have to carry into the country with you. months of September and October. Although jellyfish are not lethal in Greece, their stings can hurt. Dousing the affected area with vinegar will deactivate any stingers that have not fired. Calamine lotion, antihistamines and analgesics may help reduce any reaction you experience and relieve the pain of any stings. Much more painful than either of these, but thankfully much rarer, is an encounter with the weever fish. The fish buries itself in the sand of the tidal zone with only its spines protruding, and injects a painful and powerful toxin if trodden on. Soaking your foot in very hot water (which breaks down the poison) should solve the problem. Weever-fish stings can cause permanent local paralysis in the worst case. Greece s only dangerous snake is the adder. To minimise the possibilities of being bitten, always wear boots, socks and long trousers when walking through undergrowth where snakes may be present. Don t put your hands into holes and crevices, and be careful when collecting firewood. Snake bites do not cause instantaneous death and an antivenin is widely available. Keep the victim calm and still, wrap the bitten limb tightly, as you would for a sprained ankle, and attach a splint to immobilise it. Seek medical help, if possible with the dead snake for identification. Don t attempt to catch the snake if there is a possibility of being bitten again. Tourniquets and sucking out the poison are now comprehensively discredited. Always check all over your body if you have been walking through a potentially tickinfested area as ticks can cause skin infections and other more serious diseases. If a tick is found attached, press down around the tick s head with tweezers, grab the head and gently pull upwards. Avoid pulling the rear of the tick s body as this may squeeze the tick s gut contents through the attached mouth parts into the skin, increasing the risk of infection and disease. Greece is now officially rabies-free, however even if the animal is not rabid, all animal bites should be treated seriously as they can become infected or can result in tetanus. Mosquitoes can be an annoying problem in Greece so some precautions may be needed, though there is no danger of contracting malaria. The electric plug-in mosquito repellents are usually sufficient and more bearable than coils to keep the insects at bay at night. Nonetheless choose accommodation that has flyscreen window-protection wherever possible. Mosquito species can vary as can your reaction to their bites. Mosquitoes in northern Greece can provoke a severe reaction. The Asian tiger mosquito (Aedes albopictus) may be encountered in mountainous areas and can be a voracious daytime biter. It is known to carry several viruses, including Eastern equine encephalitis, which can affect the central nervous system and cause severe complications and death. Use protective sprays or lotion if you suspect you are being bitten during the day. Invisible bedbugs can be a major irritation if encountered. Symptoms are lots of pinprick bites that you may initially assign to mosquitoes even if you are covered up. There is no protection other then to change to a noninfected bed. Airing the mattress thoroughly in the sun may alleviate the problem. Heatstroke Heatstroke occurs following excessive fluid loss with inadequate replacement of fluids and salt. Symptoms of heatstroke include headache, dizziness and tiredness. Dehydration is already happening by the time you feel thirsty aim to drink sufficient water to produce pale, diluted urine. To treat heatstroke drink water and/or fruit juice, and cool the body with cold water and fans. Hypothermia Hypothermia occurs when the body loses heat faster than it can produce it. As ever, proper preparation will reduce the risks of getting it. Even on a hot day in the mountains, the weather can change rapidly so carry waterproof garments, warm layers and a hat, and inform others of your route. Hypothermia starts with shivering, loss of judgment and clumsiness. Unless rewarming occurs, the sufferer deteriorates into apathy, confusion and coma. Prevent further heat loss by seeking shelter, warm dry clothing, hot sweet drinks and shared bodily warmth. TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN Make sure children are up to date with routine vaccinations and discuss possible travel vaccines well before departure as some vaccines are not suitable for children under a year old. Lonely Planet s Travel with Children includes travel health advice for younger children. WOMEN S HEALTH Emotional stress, exhaustion and travelling through different time zones can all contribute to an upset in the menstrual pattern. If using oral contraceptives, remember some antibiotics, diarrhoea and vomiting can stop the pill from working. Time zones, gastrointestinal upsets and antibiotics do not affect injectable contraception. Travelling during pregnancy is usually possible but always consult your doctor before planning your trip. The most risky times for travel are during the first 12 weeks of pregnancy and after 30 weeks. SEXUAL HEALTH Condoms are readily available but emergency contraception may not be, so take the necessary precautions. HEALTH

387 752 LANGUAGE The Greek Alphabet & Pronunciation 753 LANGUAGE Language CONTENTS Pronunciation 752 Accommodation 752 Conversation & Essentials 754 Directions 754 Health 755 Language Difficulties 756 Numbers 756 Paperwork 756 Emergencies 756 Question Words 756 Shopping & Services 757 Time & Dates 757 Transport 757 Travel with Children 758 The Greek language is probably the oldest European language, with an oral tradition of 4000 years and a written tradition of approximately 3000 years. Its evolution over the four millennia was characterised by its strength during the golden age of Athens and the Democracy (mid-5th century BC); its use as a lingua franca throughout the Middle Eastern world, spread by Alexander the Great and his successors as far as India during the Hellenistic period (330 BC to AD 100); its adaptation as the language of the new religion, Christianity; its use as the official language of the Eastern Roman Empire; and its proclamation as the language of the Byzantine Empire ( ). Greek maintained its status and prestige during the rise of the European Renaissance and was employed as the linguistic perspective for all contemporary sciences and terminologies during the period of Enlightenment. Today, Greek constitutes a large part of the vocabulary of any Indo- European language, and much of the lexicon of any scientific repertoire. The modern Greek language is a southern Greek dialect which is now used by most Greek speakers both in Greece and abroad. It is the result of an intralinguistic influence and synthesis of the ancient vocabulary combined with words from Greek regional dialects, namely Cretan, Cypriot and Macedonian. Greek is spoken throughout Greece by a population of around 10 million, and by some five million Greeks who live abroad. PRONUNCIATION All Greek words of two or more syllables have an acute accent which indicates where the stress falls. For instance, άγαλμα (statue) is pronounced aghalma, and αγάπη (love) is pronounced aghapi. In the following transliterations, italic lettering indicates where stress falls. Note also that dh is pronounced as th in then and gh is a softer, slightly guttural version of g. ACCOMMODATION I m looking for... psa hno yi a... Ψάχνω για... a room e na dho ma ti o ένα δωμάτιο a hotel e na kse no dho chi o ένα ξενοδοχείο a youth hostel e nan kse no na έναν ξενώνα ne o ti tas νεότητας Where s a cheap hotel? pou i ne e na fti no xe no do hi o Πού είναι ένα φτηνό ξενοδοχείο; What s the address? pya i ne i dhi ef thin si Ποια είναι η διεύθυνση; Could you write the address, please? pa ra ka lo bo ri te na ghra pse te ti dhi ef thin si Παρακαλώ, μπορείτε να γράψετε τη διεύθυνση; Are there any rooms available? i par chun e lef the ra dho ma ti a Υπάρχουν ελεύθερα δωμάτια; I d like to book... tha i the la na kli so... Θα ήθελα να κλείσω... a bed e na kre va ti ένα κρεββάτι a single room e na mo no kli no ένα μονόκλινο dho ma ti o δωμάτιο a double room e na dhi kli no ένα δίκλινο dho ma ti o δωμάτιο THE GREEK ALPHABET & PRONUNCIATION Greek Pronunciation Guide Example Α α a as in father αγάπη a gha pi love Β β v as in vine βήμα vi ma step Γ γ gh like a rough g γάτα gha ta cat y as in yes για ya for Δ δ dh as in there δέμα dhe ma parcel Ε ε e as in egg ένας e nas one (m) Ζ ζ z as in zoo ζώο zo o animal Η η i as in feet ήταν i tan was Θ θ th as in throw θέμα the ma theme Ι ι i as in feet ίδιος i dhyos same Κ κ k as in kite καλά ka la well Λ λ l as in leg λάθος la thos mistake Μ μ m as in man μαμά ma ma mother Ν ν n as in net νερό ne ro water Ξ ξ x as in ox ξύδι ksi dhi vinegar Ο ο o as in hot όλα o la all Π π p as in pup πάω pa o I go Ρ ρ r as in road ρέμα re ma stream a slightly trilled r ρόδα ro dha tyre Σ σ, ς s as in sand σημάδι si ma dhi mark Τ τ t as in tap τόπος to pos site Υ υ i as in feet ύστερα is tera after Φ φ f as in find φύλλο fi lo leaf Χ χ kh as the ch in χάνω kha no I lose Scottish loch, or like a rough h χέρι he ri hand Ψ ψ ps as in lapse ψωμί pso mi bread Ω ω o as in hot ώρα o ra time Combinations of Letters The combinations of letters shown here are pronounced as follows: Greek Pronunciation Guide Example ει i as in feet είδα i dha I saw οι i as in feet οικόπεδο i ko pe dho land αι e as in bet αίμα e ma blood ου u as in mood πού pou who/what/where μπ b as in beer μπάλα ba la ball mb as in amber κάμπος kam bos forest ντ d as in dot ντουλάπα dou la pa wardrobe nd as in bend πέντε pen de five γκ g as in God γκάζι ga zi gas γγ ng as in angle αγγελία an ge lia announcement γξ ks as in minks σφιγξ sfinks sphynx τζ dz as in hands τζάκι dza ki fireplace The pairs of vowels shown above are pronounced separately if the first has an acute accent, or the second a dieresis, as in the examples below: γαϊδουράκι gai dhou ra ki little donkey Κάιρο kai ro Cairo Some Greek consonant sounds have no English equivalent. The υ of the groups αυ, ευ and ηυ is generally pronounced v. The Greek question mark is represented with the English equivalent of a semicolon ;. LANGUAGE

388 754 LANGUAGE Converstaion & Essentials LANGUAGE Health 755 LANGUAGE a room with a double bed e na dho ma ti o me ένα δωμάτιο με dhy o kre va ti a δυό κρεββάτια a room with a bathroom e na dho ma ti o me ένα δωμάτιο με ba ni o μπάνιο I d like to share a dorm. tha i the la na mi ra so e na ki no dho ma ti o me al la a to ma Θα ήθελα να μοιράσω ένα κοινό δωμάτιο με άλλα άτομα How much is it...? po so ka ni... Πόσο κάνει...; per night ti vra dhya τη βραδυά per person to a to mo το άτομο May I see it? bo ro na to dho Μπορώ να το δω; Where s the bathroom? pou i ne to ba ni o Πού είναι το μπάνιο; I m/we re leaving today. fev gho/fev ghou me Φεύγω/φεύγουμε si me ra σήμερα CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS Hello. ya sas (pol) Γειά σας. ya su (inf) Γειά σου. Good morning. ka li me ra Καλημέρα. Good afternoon/evening. ka li spe ra Καλησπέρα. Good night. ka li nikh ta Καληνύχτα. Goodbye. an di o Αντίο. Yes. ne Ναι. No. o hi Οχι. Please. pa ra ka lo Παρακαλώ. Thank you. ef ha ri sto Ευχαριστώ. That s fine/you re welcome. pa ra ka lo Παρακαλώ. Sorry. (excuse me, forgive me) sigh no mi Συγγνώμη. What s your name? pos sas le ne Πώς σας λένε; My name is... me le ne... Με λένε... Where are you from? a po pou i ste Από πού είστε; I m from... i me a po... Είμαι από... I (don t) like... (dhen) ma re si... (Δεν) μ αρέσει... Just a minute. mi so lep to Μισό λεπτό. DIRECTIONS Where is...? pou i ne... Straight ahead. o lo ef thi a Turn left. strips te a ri ste ra Turn right. Πού είναι...; Ολο ευθεία. Στρίψτε αριστερά strips te dhe ksi a Στρίψτε δεξιά at the next corner stin epo me ni gho ni a στην επόμενη γωνία at the traffic lights sta fo ta SIGNS ΕΙΣΟΔΟΣ ΕΞΟΔΟΣ ΠΛΗΡΟΦΟΡΙΕΣ ΑΝΟΙΧΤΟ ΚΛΕΙΣΤΟ ΑΠΑΓΟΡΕΥΕΤΑΙ ΑΣΤΥΝΟΜΙΑ ΑΣΤΥΝΟΜΙΚΟΣ ΣΤΑΘΜΟΣ ΓΥΝΑΙΚΩΝ ΑΝΔΡΩΝ στα φώτα Entry Exit Information Open Closed Prohibited Police Police Station Toilets (women) Toilets (men) behind pi so πίσω in front of bro sta μπροστά far ma kri a μακριά near (to) kon da κοντά opposite a pe nan di απέναντι acropolis a kro po li ακρόπολη beach pa ra li a παραλία bridge yefira γέφυρα castle ka stro κάστρο island ni si νησί main square ken dri ki pla ti a κεντρική πλατεία market a gho ra αγορά museum mu si o μουσείο old quarter pa li a po li παλιά πόλη ruins ar he a αρχαία sea tha las sa θάλασσα square pla ti a πλατεία temple na os ναός TRANSLITERATION & VARIANT SPELLINGS: AN EXPLANATION The issue of correctly transliterating Greek into the Latin alphabet is a vexed one, fraught with inconsistencies and pitfalls. The Greeks themselves are not very consistent in this respect, though things are gradually improving. The word Piraeus, for example, has been variously represented by the following transliterations: Pireas, Piraievs and Pireefs; and when appearing as a street name (eg Piraeus St) you will also find Pireos! This has been compounded by the linguistic minefield of diglossy, or the two forms of the Greek language. The purist form is called Katharevousa and the popular form is Dimotiki (Demotic). The Katharevousa form was never more than an artificiality and Dimotiki has always been spoken as the mainstream language, but this linguistic schizophrenia means there are often two Greek words for each English word. Thus, the word for baker in everyday language is fournos, but the shop sign will more often than not say artopoieion. The baker s product will be known in the street as psomi, but in church as artos. A further complication is the issue of anglicised vs hellenised forms of place names: Athina vs Athens, Patra vs Patras, Thiva vs Thebes, Evia vs Euboia the list goes on and on! Toponymic diglossy (the existence of both an official and everyday name for a place) is responsible for Kerkyra/ Corfu, Zante/Zakynthos, and Santorini/Thira. In this guide we usually provide modern Greek equivalents for town names, with one well known exception, Athens. For ancient sites, settlements or people from antiquity, we have tried to stick to the more familiar classical names; so we have Thucydides instead of Thoukididis, Mycenae instead of Mykines. Problems in transliteration have particular implications for vowels, especially given that Greek has six ways of rendering the vowel sound ee, two ways of rendering the o sound and two ways of rendering the e sound. In most instances in this book, y has been used for the ee sound when a Greek upsilon (υ, Υ) has been used, and i for Greek ita (η, Η) and iota (ι, Ι). In the case of the Greek vowel combinations that make the ee sound, that is οι, ει and υι, an i has been used. For the two Greek e sounds αι and ε, an e has been employed. As far as consonants are concerned, the Greek letter gamma (γ, Γ) appears as g rather than y throughout this book. This means that agios (Greek for male saint) is used rather than ayios, and agia (female saint) rather than ayia. The letter fi (φ, Φ) can be transliterated as either f or ph. Here, a general rule of thumb is that classical names are spelt with a ph and modern names with an f. So Phaistos is used rather than Festos, and Folegandros is used rather than Pholegandros. The Greek chi (χ, Χ) has usually been represented as h in order to approximate the Greek pronunciation as closely as possible. Thus, we have Haralambos instead of Charalambos and Polytehniou instead of Polytechniou. Bear in mind that the h is to be pronounced as an aspirated 'h', much like the ch in loch. The letter kapa (κ, Κ) has been used to represent that sound, except where well known names from antiquity have adopted by convention the letter c, eg Polycrates, Acropolis. Wherever reference to a street name is made, we have omitted the Greek word odos, but words for avenue (leoforos, abbreviated leof) and square (plateia) have been included. HEALTH I m ill. i me a ro stos Είμαι άρρωστος. It hurts here. po nai e dho Πονάει εδώ. I have... e ho... Εχω... asthma asth ma άσθμα diabetes za ha ro dhi a vi ti ζαχαροδιαβήτη diarrhoea dhi a ri a διάρροια epilepsy e pi lip si a επιληψία I m allergic to... i me a ler yi kos/ Είμαι αλλεργικός/ a ler yi ki... (m/f) αλλεργική... antibiotics sta an di vi o ti ka στα αντιβιωτικά aspirin stin a spi ri ni στην ασπιρίνη penicillin stin pe ni ki li ni στην πενικιλλίνη bees stis me li ses στις μέλισσες nuts sta fi sti ki a στα φυστίκια LANGUAGE

389 756 LANGUAGE Language Difficulties LANGUAGE Shopping & Services 757 LANGUAGE condoms pro fi la kti ka προφυλακτικά (ka po tez) (καπότες) contraceptive pro fi lak ti ko προφυλακτικό medicine farm a ko φάρμακο sunblock cream kre ma i li u κρέμα ηλίου tampons tam bon ταμπόν LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES Do you speak English? mi la te an gli ka Μιλάτε αγγλικά; Does anyone speak English? mi lai ka nis an gli ka Μιλάει κανείς αγγλικά; How do you say... in Greek? ps le ghe te... sta Πώς λέγεται... στα el li ni ka ελληνικά; I understand. ka ta la ve no Καταλαβαίνω. I don t understand. dhen ka ta la ve no Δεν καταλαβαίνω. Please write it down. ghrap ste to pa ra ka lo Γράψτε το, παρακαλώ. Can you show me on the map? bo ri te na mo u to Μπορείτε να μου το dhi xe te sto har ti δείξετε στο χάρτη; NUMBERS 0 mi dhen μηδέν 1 e nas ένας (m) mi a μία (f) e na ένα (n) 2 dhi o δύο 3 tris τρεις (m&f) tri a τρία (n) 4 te se ris τέσσερεις (m&f) te se ra τέσσερα (n) 5 pen de πέντε 6 e xi έξη 7 ep ta επτά 8 oh to οχτώ 9 e ne a εννέα 10 dhe ka δέκα 20 ik o si είκοσι 30 tri an da τριάντα 40 sa ran da σαράντα 50 pe nin da πενήντα 60 exin da εξήντα 70 ev dho min da εβδομήντα 80 oh dhon da ογδόντα 90 eneninda ενενήντα 100 e ka to εκατό 1000 hi li i χίλιοι (m) hi li ez χίλιες (f) hi li a χίλια (n) 2000 dhi o chi li a dhez δυό χιλιάδες PAPERWORK name o no ma te po ni mo nationality i pi ko o ti ta date of birth i me ro mi ni a yen ni se os EMERGENCIES Help! ονοματεπώνυμο υπηκοότητα ημερομηνία γεννήσεως vo i thya Βοήθεια! There s been an accident. ey i ne a ti hi ma Εγινε ατύχημα. Go away! fi ye Φύγε! Call...! fo nak ste... Φωνάξτε...! a doctor e na yi a tro ένα γιατρό the police tin a sti no mi a την αστυνομία place of birth to pos yen ni se os sex (gender) fil lon passport dhia va ti ri o visa vi za τόπος γεννήσεως φύλον διαβατήριο βίζα QUESTION WORDS Who/Which? pi os/pi a/pi o (sg m/f/n) Ποιος/Ποια/Ποιο; pi i/pi es/pi a (pl m/f/n) Ποιοι/Ποιες/Ποια; Who s there? pi os i ne e ki Ποιος είναι εκεί; Which street is this? pi a o dhos i ne af ti What? ti Τι; What s this? ti i ne af to Τι είναι αυτό; Where? pu Πού; When? po te Πότε; Why? yi a ti Γιατί; How? pos Πώς; How much? po so Πόσο; How much does it cost? po so ka ni Πόσο κάνει; Ποια οδός είναι αυτή; SHOPPING & SERVICES I d like to buy... the lo n a gho ra so... Θέλω ν αγοράσω... How much is it? po so ka ni I don t like it. dhen mu a re si May I see it? bo ro na to dho I m just looking. ap los ki ta zo It s cheap. i ne fti no It s too expensive. i ne po li a kri vo I ll take it. tha to pa ro Πόσο κάνει; Δεν μου αρέσει. Μπορώ να το δω; Απλώς κοιτάζω. Είναι φτηνό. Είναι πολύ ακριβό. Θα το πάρω. Do you accept...? dhe che ste... Δέχεστε...; credit cards pi sto ti ki kar ta πιστωτική κάρτα travellers tak si dhi o ti kes ταξιδιωτικές cheques e pi ta ghes επιταγές more pe ri so te ro περισσότερο less li gho te ro λιγότερο smaller mi kro te ro μικρότερο bigger me gha li te ro μεγαλύτερο I m looking for... psach no ya... Ψάχνω για... a bank mya tra pe za μια τράπεζα the church tin ek kli si a την εκκλησία the city centre to ken dro tis το κέντρο της po lis πόλης the... embassy tin... pres vi a την... πρεσβεία the market ti lai ki a gho ra τη λαϊκη αγορά the museum to mu si o το μουσείο the post office to ta chi dhro mi o το ταχυδρομείο a public toilet mya dhi mo sia μια δημόσια tu a let ta τουαλέττα the telephone to ti le fo n i ko το τηλεφωνικό centre ken dro κέντρο the tourist office to tu ri st iko το τουριστικό ghra fi o γραφείο TIME & DATES What time is it? ti o ra i ne Τι ώρα είναι; It s (2 o clock). i ne (dhi o i o ra) είναι (δύο η ώρα). in the morning to pro i το πρωί in the afternoon to a po yev ma το απόγευμα in the evening to vra dhi το βράδυ When? po te Πότε; today si me ra σήμερα tomorrow av ri o αύριο yesterday hthes χθες Monday dhef te ra Δευτέρα Tuesday tri ti Τρίτη Wednesday te tar ti Τετάρτη Thursday pemp ti Πέμπτη Friday pa ras ke vi Παρασκευή Saturday sa va to Σάββατο Sunday kyri a ki Κυριακή January ia nou ar i os Ιανουάριος February fev rou ar i os Φεβρουάριος March mar ti os Μάρτιος April a pri li os Απρίλιος May mai os Μάιος June i ou ni os Ιούνιος July i ou li os Ιούλιος August av ghous tos Αύγουστος September sep tem vri os Σεπτέμβριος October ok to vri os Οκτώβριος November no em vri os Νοέμβριος December dhe kem vri os Δεκέμβριος TRANSPORT Public Transport What time does ti o ra fev yi/ Τι ώρα φεύγει/ the... leave/ fta ni to... φτάνει το...; arrive? boat pli o πλοίο (city) bus a sti ko αστικό (intercity) bus le o fo ri o λεωφορείο plane ae ro pla no αεροπλάνο train tre no τραίνο I d like tha i the la Θα ήθελα (a)... (e na)... (ένα)... one way ticket a plo isi ti ri o απλό εισιτήριο return ticket i si ti ri o me εισιτήριο με e pi stro fi επιστροφή 1st class pro ti the si πρώτη θέση 2nd class def te ri the si δεύτερη θέση I want to go to... the lo na pao sto/sti... Θέλω να πάω στο/στη... The train has been cancelled/delayed. to tre no a ki rothi ke/ka thi ste ri se Το τραίνο ακυρώθηκε/καθυστέρησε the first to pro to το πρώτο the last to te lef te o το τελευταίο platform number a rithmos a po va thras αριθμός αποβάθρας ticket office ek dho ti ri o i si ti ri on εκδοτήριο εισιτηρίων LANGUAGE

390 758 LANGUAGE Travel with Children LANGUAGE timetable dhro mo lo gio train station si dhi ro dhro mi kos stath mos δρομολόγιο σιδηροδρομικός σταθμός Private Transport I d like to hire tha i the la na Θα ήθελα να a... ni ki a so... νοικιάσω... car e na af ti ki ni to ένα αυτοκίνητο 4WD e na tes se ra ένα τέσσερα e pi tes se ra επί τέσσερα (a jeep) (e na tzip) (ένα τζιπ) motorbike mya mo to si μια μοτοσυklet ta κλέττα bicycle e na po dhi la to ένα ποδήλατο Is this the road to...? af tos i ne o dhro mos ya... Αυτός είναι ο δρόμος για... Where s the next service station? pu i ne to e po me no ven zi na dhi ko Πού είναι το επόμενο βενζινάδικο; Please fill it up. ye mi ste to pa ra ka lo Γεμίστε το, παρακαλώ. I d like (30) euros worth. tha i the la (30) ev ro Θα ήθελα (30) ευρώ. diesel pet re le o ki ni sis πετρέλαιο κίνησης leaded petrol su per σούπερ unleaded petrol a mo liv dhi αμόλυβδη Can I park here? bo ro na par ka ro e dho Μπορώ να παρκάρω εδώ; Where do I pay? pu pli ro no Πού πληρώνω; ROAD SIGNS ΠΑΡΑΚΑΜΨΗ Detour ΑΠΑΓΟΡΕΥΕΤΕΑΙ Η ΕΙΣΟΔΟΣ No Entry ΑΠΑΓΟΡΕΥΕΤΑΙ Η ΠΡΟΣΠΕΡΑΣΗ No Overtaking ΑΠΑΓΟΡΕΥΕΤΑΙ ΗΣΤΑΘΜΕΥΣΗ No Parking ΕΙΣΟΔΟΣ Entrance ΜΗΝ ΠΑΡΚΑΡΕΤΕ ΕΔΩ Keep Clear ΔΙΟΔΙΑ Toll ΚΙΝΔΥΝΟΣ Danger ΑΡΓΑ Slow Down ΕΞΟΔΟΣ Exit The car/motorbike has broken down (at...) to af to ki ni to/mo to si klet ta cha la se sto... Το αυτοκίνητο/η μοτοσυκλέττα χάλασε στο... The car/motorbike won t start. to af to ki ni to/mo to si klet ta dhen per ni bros Το αυτοκίνητο/η μοτοσυκλέττα δεν παίρνει μπρος. I have a flat tyre. e pa tha la sti cho Επαθα λάστιχο. I ve run out of petrol. e mi na a po ven zi ni Εμεινα από βενζίνη. I ve had an accident. e pa tha a ti chi ma Επαθα ατύχημα. TRAVEL WITH CHILDREN Is there a/an...? i par chi... Υπάρχει...; I need a/an... chri a zo me... Χρειάζομαι... baby change me ros nal lak so μέρος ν αλλάξω room to mo ro το μωρό car baby seat ka this ma ya κάθισμα για mo ro μωρό child-minding ba bi sit ter μπέιμπι σίττερ service children s menu me nu ya pe dhya μενού για παιδία (disposable) pan nez Pam pers πάννες Pampers nappies/diapers (English- ba bi sit ter μπέιμπι σίττερ speaking) pu mi la που μιλά babysitter an ghl ika αγγλικά highchair pe dhi ki ka rek la παιδική καρέκλα potty yo yo γιογιό stroller ka rot sa ki καροτσάκι Also available from Lonely Planet: Greek Phrasebook Do you mind if I breastfeed here? bo ro na thi la so e dho Μπορώ να θηλάσω εδώ; Are children allowed? e pi tre pon de ta pe dhya Επιρέπονται τα παιδιά;