From the Pulchra Leonina (the Leonese Beauty, the León Cathedral) to the Sancta Ovetensis (the Oviedo Cathedral) GUIA CAMINO DEL SALVADOR

Transcription

1 From the Pulchra Leonina (the Leonese Beauty, the León Cathedral) to the Sancta Ovetensis (the Oviedo Cathedral) GUIA CAMINO DEL SALVADOR Author and Photographer: jose antonio cuñarro exposito (also known as Ender ) 1

2 FROM THE PULCHRA LEONINA TO THE SANCTA OVETENSIS This Camino joins two beautiful cities, both easy to live in, both simple but with a grand history, one the cradle of parliamentarianism and the other the cradle of the Reconquest, both provincial capitals, both Jacobean and pilgrim cities, both with a huge importance for the pilgrimage to Santiago. ORIGIN OF THE CAMINO DEL SALVADOR Spain had been invaded by the Moors, who were advancing towards the north. To protect the innumerable religious relics that were located all over what is now Spain, the relics were carried northwards to cities where they could be safeguarded. Oviedo was the capital of Spain, and Alfonso II was the ruler. The discovery of the tomb of the Apostle James was the reason for the king s pilgrimage to Santiago in the 9 th century, so that he could pay respects to the Apostle s remains. It was King Alfonso II who ordered the construction of a Holy Chamber in the Cathedral of Oviedo, a place for safekeeping all the relics that had been hidden in the mountain named Monsacro. This turned Oviedo into the principal custodian of relics from all of Europe, outnumbered only by those that we can find in Rome. When the Reconquest began, Oviedo lost political power, and the capital was transferred to León. At that point the Jacobean routes, which until that time had gone across the north, on the Viejo Camino (Old Way) or the Camino Olvidado (Forgotten Way), and the Camino Primitivo (Original Way), lost out to the consolidation of the Camino Francés (French Way), which became the primary and most heavily traveled route. But the opportunity to visit the relics in the Holy Chamber of Oviedo spurred the creation of the Camino del Salvador, a slight detour north from the Camino Francés in León, which could be taken either on the way to Santiago or on the way home. Various Spanish kings made the pilgrimage on the Camino del Salvador to honor the relics. According to tradition, the Holy Chest that is located in the Oviedo Cathedral was transported from Jerusalem. The apostles were reputed to have used it to secure various objects connected with the passion and death of Christ and Mary. It was first taken to Toledo, which was the capital of Spain at that time, but later brought to Oviedo. In 1075, the king Alfonso VI visited Oviedo to conduct an inventory of the contents of the Holy Chest. He was accompanied by Rodrigo Díaz, The Cid. In addition to relics like the Holy Shroud, the chest also held the Cross of Victory that Pelayo used in battle, the box of Agates, and the Cross of the Angels. La Perdonanza is a week long festival or Jubilee, from the 14 th to the 21 st of September every year in Oviedo. During these days, believers may obtain a plenary indulgence, 2

3 which brings a pardon of all sins. Unlike Santiago, in which the faithful must wait for a Holy Year to obtain an indulgence, in Oviedo it is available every year. This indulgence, given by Pope John VIII on the request of Alfonso II, will be granted to anyone who goes into the Cathedral, prays before the statue of El Salvador (Christ the Savior) and before the relics of the Holy Chamber (including the Holy Shroud, the Holy Chest, the Crosses of Victory and of the Angels, and the agate chest). The Jubilee is always celebrated on the same dates, tied to the festival of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross and the Holy Days of San Mateo (Saint Matthew). The presence of a pilgrims hospital and a pilgrims cemetery in Oviedo gives us an idea of its importance as a religious center. In the 16 th Century, the Cathedral began to publish an inventory of the relics, which was distributed to pilgrims arriving in Oviedo. It constituted proof that its holder had completed the pilgrimage on the Camino del Salvador. The importance of the pilgrimage to Oviedo in that time can be established by documents showing that in 1591, a copy of the inventory was distributed to 29,310 pilgrims. In fact, that is the same number as the total number of pilgrims recorded by the Cathedral in Santiago during that year. THE CAMINO DEL SALVADOR It is 123 km long, made up of paths and trails that separate the Cathedral of León (known as the Pulchra Leonina ) and the Cathedral of Oviedo (known as the Sancta Ovetensis ). León is a very important city on the Camino Francés, and we can connect to Oviedo from there on the Camino del Salvador. Continuing from Oviedo, we can reach Santiago by the Camino Primitivo or the Camino del Norte. Oviedo is a pilgrimage destination in its own right. It has been visited by innumerable pilgrims who come to pray in front of the sacred relics housed in its Holy Chamber. He who goes to santiago and not to san salvador pays homage to the servant and ignores the master. SUGGESTED STAGES FOR THE CAMINO DEL SALVADOR 4 Days Day 1 León - Buiza Day 2 Buiza Pajares Day 3 Pajares - Pola de Lena Day 4 Pola de Lena Oviedo 40 km 24 km 25 km 34 km 3

4 5 Days Day 1 León La Robla Day 2 La Robla - Poladura Day 3 Poladura Bendueños Day 4 Bendueños Mieres Day 5 Mieres - Oviedo Day 1 León La Robla Day 2 La Robla - Poladura Day 3 Poladura - Pajares Day 4 Pajares - Pola de Lena Day 5 Pola de Lena - Oviedo 6 Days Day 1 León La Robla Day 2 La Robla - Poladura Day 3 Poladura - Pajares Day 4 Pajares Pola de Lena Day 5 Pola de Lena - Mieres Day 6 Mieres - Oviedo 7 Days: Day 1 León Cabanillas Day 2 Cabanillas - La Robla Day 3 La Robla - Poladura Day 4 Poladura - Pajares Day 5 Pajares Pola de Lena Day 6 Pola de Lena - Mieres Day 7 Mieres Oviedo 27 km 24 km 30 km 23 km 19 km 27 km 24 km 15 km 25 km 34 km 27 km 24 km 15 km 25 km 15 km 19 km 17 km 10 km 24 km 15 km 25 km 15 km 19 km 8 Days: Day 1 León Cabanillas Day 2 Cabanillas - La Robla Day 3 La Robla - Buiza Day 4 Buiza Poladura Day 4 Poladura - Pajares Day 5 Pajares Bendueños Day 6 Bendueños - Mieres Day 7 Mieres Oviedo 17 km 10 km 15 km 9 km 15 km 15 km 25 km 19 km 4

5 9 Days: Day 1 León Cabanillas Day 2 Cabanillas - La Robla Day 3 La Robla - Buiza Day 4 Buiza Poladura Day 5 Poladura - Pajares Day 6 Pajares Bendueños Day 7 Bendueños Pola de Lena Day 8 - Pola de Lena Mieres Day 9 Mieres Oviedo 17 km 10 km 15 km 9 km 15 km 15 km 10 km 15 km 19 km IMPORTANT ADVICE: Be very aware of the seasonal changes when planning stages. In summer time, and if you are in good physical shape, longer stages are possible, but at the end of autumn and in winter, daylight hours are greatly reduced. It s important to leave a few hours of daylight as a cushion in case some mishap occurs. Anyone can suffer a sprain or a fall, and if that happens in the middle of the mountain and with little daylight left, it can be a serious problem. It s also extremely important not to risk crossing the mountains when there is heavy snow. Just because the conditions in León, or even La Robla, are fine, it may be a totally different story in Poladura. Always pay attention to the recommendations given by people in the albergues. If conditions are bad, don t risk it. The Camino will always be there and waiting for another occasion. There is no alternative to the Camino, the highway is NEVER an alternative. If there is snow, the plow will clean the highway but not the shoulder. The highway between León and Oviedo is one of the most dangerous highways in Spain even in the best of conditions, and it is much more so in snow. Imagine yourself in the middle of the highway on a day of blowing snow or wind. It is not worth it to risk your life. Take a taxi, train, or bus, and leave the mountain stages for another time. CLOTHING AND SHOES FOR THE CAMINO No matter what the season, it is always recommended to wear mountain boots on this camino. The route crosses the mountains that separate the province of León from Asturias, going as high as 1600 m. Clothing will depend on the time of year, but remember that altitude has a big effect on temperature. Though it may be hot in the summer during the day, it will be much cooler at night. In winter it is essential to come prepared for cold. BACKPACK The best backpack is the one that, in addition to being comfortable, weighs the least. Forget about the what ifs when you are packing. It s preferable to buy the occasional necessity than to bring all the many things you just might need. The Camino passes through various important towns with all services. 5

6 FOOD In Cabanillas, Buiza, Poladura, Pajares and Bendueños, remember that there are no stores to buy food. The albergues, except for Pajares, have a small kitchen with microwave. From La Robla or Buiza, you can call ahead to reserve a meal at the Posada el Embrujo in Poladura. In Pajares, the hospitalera will bring a meal, and there is also a bar on the highway that sells meals. Advisable to call a day ahead. In Bendueños, meals are offered, but you must give advance warning (at least a day) in order to eat in the albergue. Remember that these are small mountain towns. Always call ahead so that the hospitaleros and innkeepers will have enough food. It s also a good way to make sure that someone knows you are out there walking, just in case something happens. SIGNAGE This Camino is well marked. There are different types of signs. You will find yellow arrows, just like on all the other Caminos to Santiago, as well as signs on wooden posts indicating the Camino del Salvador, all through the province of León. Once you arrive in the mountains, you will find metal arrows and shells to guide your way. And in the final part, in Asturias, you will see typical granite waymarkers with the Camino shell on them. The first marking for the Camino del Salvador is found at the foot of the pilgrim statue located in front of the Parador San Marcos. This marking indicates that the Camino Francés to Santiago goes to the left (while you are facing the parador), while going to the right and alongside the building is the Camino del Salvador. On the right side of the Parador San Marcos you will find the first Salvador milestones 6

7 CREDENTIAL OF THE CAMINO DEL SALVADOR You can obtain a credential for the Camino del Salvador in the albergues in León (the monastery of the Benedictine nuns, the Carbajalas; the albergue San Francisco de Asís; and Miguel de Unamuno). You will also find them in the tourist offices of León, La Robla, and Pola de Gordón. They may be ordered online by filling out the form on the web page of the City of La Robla: mino_de_santiago/venta_de_credenciales.pdf The ayuntamiento (local town hall) of La Robla also has some information about the Camino del Salvador on its website: SALVADORANA The Salvadorana is the document that certifies completion of the Camino del Salvador. It can be obtained in the Cathedral of Oviedo and in the municipal albergue in Oviedo. 7

8 PRIVATE LODGING La Robla. Hostal ORDOÑEZ DE CELIS Telephone: Pensión MUNDO Telephone: Buen suceso. Bar - Restaurante BUEN SUCESO Telephone: Pola de Gordón. Hotel Valle de Gordón Telephone: / Pensión EL ARENAL Telephone: / Pensión 15 DE MAYO Telephone: / Buiza. Casa Rural Finca La Castañona Telephone: Poladura de la Tercia. Posada El Embrujo Telephone: / Pajares. Posada Real Telephone: Pensión bar El Mirador Telephone: Campomanes. Hostal SENDA DEL HUERNA Telephone: / Pensión CASA DEL ABAD Telephone: / Pola de Lena. Hotel Ruta de la Plata Telephone: Hotel La Payareta Telephone: Hotel Llena Telephone: Mieres del Camino. Pensión La Peña Telephone: Pensión ASTUR Telephone: Hostal Pachín Telephone: Hotel Mieres del camino Telephone:

9 ALBERGUES CAMINO DEL SALVADOR LEÓN Albergue de las Carbajalas. Pza. Sta. María del Camino, 7. Tel Hours: 11:00 to 22: spaces. Albergue San Francisco de Asís. C/ Alcalde Miguel Castaño, 4. Hours: 08:30 a 00:00. Tel / places. Albergue Miguel de Unamuno. C/ San Pelayo, 15. Tel Open 24 hours, 80 places. Albergue Sto. Tomás de Canterbury. Av. La Lastra, 53. Tel Hours: 10:00 to 22: places. Albergue Muralla Leonesa. C/ Tarifa, 5. Tel Hours: 8:00-12:00 and 14:00-22: places. Albergue Check in León. C/ Alcalde Miguel Castaño, 88. Tel / Hours: 11:00 to 22: places. CABANILLAS Albergue de Peregrinos de Cabanillas. C/ La Iglesia, s/n. Tel Antonio (C/ Real, 42, Cabanillas) Call in advance. 4 places. LA ROBLA Albergue Municipal de La Robla. C/ Mayor, 69-B. 16 places. Tel Ayuntamiento (town hall): / Local Police: Hours: 12:00 to 20:00. BUIZA DE GORDÓN Albergue Municipal Camino del Salvador. Tel / Hours: 11:00 to 22: places. POLADURA DE LA TERCIA Albergue Antiguas escuelas Tel / places. For meals, call at least a day ahead to the Casa Rural, La Posada El Embrujo: PAJARES Albergue Antiguas escuelas. (Albergue in the old school). Tel.: Call ahead of time for meals and/or lodging. Call any time before before 22: places. BENDUEÑOS Albergue Santuario de Bendueños (Erías, Lena). 8 places. Tel Meals provided with reservation. Hours: 15:00 to 20:00. benduenosalbergue@yahoo.es POLA DE LENA Albergue de San Martín. C/ Ramón y Cajal, 20 (next to the RENFE train station). Tel: / / places. Hours: Monday through Friday: 8:00-15:00 and 16:30-21:30, Saturdays after 16:30 (call second or third number); Sundays and holidays after 17:30 (call second or third phone number). MIERES DEL CAMINO Albergue Antiguas Escuelas de la Peña. Parque Sta. Ana, s/n Tel: / places. Hours: From 17:00 to 21:00. OVIEDO Albergue de Peregrinos El Salvador. C/ Leopoldo Alas, 20. Tel.: places. Hours: 13:00 to 22:

10 LEÓN - LA ROBLA (27 KM) Leave the Hostal Parador San Marcos along the right side of the building, following the Avenida de los Peregrinos. You will immediately see the first waymarking signs, which will accompany pilgrims through the province of León. 10

11 The Camino goes along the side of the Bernesga River on a pleasant urban walk, following the Avenida de los Peregrinos until you reach the highway CV Once you pass the roundabout with a plane in the middle, you can choose to go to the alternative path that goes along the shore of the Bernesga River. It is a nice dirt path. Though it has no marking, it is obvious how to proceed, along the river, parallel to the street. This path continues all the way to Carbajal, and there is no way to get lost. You can remain on the street, however, if you prefer. When the Avenida de los Peregrinos ends, turn to the right to find the road that goes to Carbajal de la Legua. There is a path that goes parallel to the highway which avoids the asphalt. 11

12 When the Avenida de los Peregrinos ends, turn to the right to find the road that goes to Carbajal de la Legua. There is a path that goes parallel to the highway which avoids the asphalt. En Carbajal, the Bar Central will give a stamp. There is also a small store for purchasing provisions if you haven t done that in León. The next town with services is Cascantes, where there is a bar, for nourishment before you get to La Robla. Leaving Carbajal, after passing the monument to the pilgrim, a very visible and very well marked dirt path begins. This path goes along the ridge halfway up a hill, so that you can see all the valley of the Bernesga River, which we will follow for the entire way, going in and out of oak forests. 12

13 Stop pilgrim!!! You are in Villalbura We reach the ruins of Villalbura where you can see a mailbox that has a small first aid kit, maps, and a book for signatures and thoughts. Pilgrims can write in it while they rest and drink water from its fountain. 13

14 PAY ATTENTION AT THIS POINT! As you can see in the picture, what seems to be the main path curves around to the left, but the Camino ascends off to the right. The camino continues its ascent, allowing us to enjoy beautiful views. And now this stage, which at the beginning seemed easy, becomes a continual up and down, tough on the legs. The Camino descends to the Fountain of San Pelayo, a place to rest with another mailbox. According to tradition, when Bermudo II el Gotoso was defeated in battle in El Esla, he retreated to Oviedo and rested in this place with his troops. 14

15 Cabanillas is close, a short 2 km away. The choice is to stay in the albergue for pilgrims in Cabanillas or continue to La Robla. In Cabanillas we can visit the church of Santiago and the chapel of the Holy Christ. There is an old pilgrims hospital, adjacent to the Pilgrims Plaza. The Cofradía del Santísimo Cristo de la Vera Cruz (the Confraternity of the Holy Christ of the True Cross) has offered shelter to pilgrims here for more than four centuries. To stay in Cabanillas, call the hospitalero Antonio in advance. Tel: Leave Cabanillas along the Calle Real. The Camino shares a path with a hiking route The Oaks of the Bernesga River, and it goes through an oak forest with the river on the left. We arrive at the town of La Seca, but pass by it on our left without entering. La Seca has a bar in the center of town, but we would have to cross the bridge and go into town. Although it s not on the Camino, the detour would be a short 200 m. But staying on the camino, in two km we will arrive at Cascantes. 15

16 At this point we leave the trail and merge with the highway CV It takes us down the Calle Real to the plaza where the church of San Pedro is located. There used to be a pilgrims hospital in Cascantes, but there are no remains. There is a bar, and from there it s only 5 km to La Robla. A There is an alternative that avoids the highway, avoids the center of La Robla, and heads straight to the albergue. For those who don t like walking on the road, this is a great alternative, very flat and easy to walk. There is an alternative that avoids the highway, avoids the center of La Robla, and heads straight to the albergue. For those who don t like walking on the road, this is a great alternative, very flat and easy to walk. At the exit of Cascantes, on the left hand after the last house,we can take a path that will lead us to Llanos De Alba. Once in Llanos de Alba, turn to the right and cross the national highway on an 16

17 elevated walkway and then take the road that turns to the left. This road goes directly to La Robla, and it is perfectly well marked. If you take this alternative, you will not pass by the Chapel of Celada nor will you see the door and hand of the pilgrim. The chapel has a Camino history, as it used to have its own pilgrims hospital. But the church is now always closed. Taking this alternative will also bypass the door and hand of the pilgrim, of recent construction but not totally finished. The door, which the Camino passes through, has a hand on the side with some verses to pilgrims. But in its current state, you may not even notice it if you go through. If we continue on the marked Camino, stay on the highway until reaching the outskirts of the power plant of La Robla. A path parallel to the highway takes us to the chapel of Our Lady of Celada. When we leave the chapel, we will see the door and the hand of the pilgrim. If we continue on the marked Camino, stay on the highway until reaching the outskirts of the power plant of La Robla. A path parallel to the highway takes us to the chapel of Our Lady of Celada. When we leave the chapel, we will see the door and the hand of the pilgrim. 17

18 Continue on the path, which enters La Robla, going underneath the highway through a tunnel, and crossing the train tracks on an elevated walkway, which takes us to the main street. La Robla has all services restaurants, supermarkets, doctor s office, etc. Continue down the Calle Mayor until reaching the Town Hall. Continue straight, following the marking until arriving at the municipal albergue, end of our first stage. The albergue is at the side of the park La Huerga. 16 beds. Telephone of the albergue; Sixto, Carlos and Toño will make sure that you feel at home. They are wonderful hospitaleros. 18

19 PROFILE OF THE STAGE Total Distance: San Marcos Parador to Albergue of La Robla, 27.4 km Initial Elevation: 837 m Ending Elevation: 958 m. Highest Elevation: m Total ascent and descent: m LA ROBLA - POLADURA DE LA TERCIA (24 KM) We leave the albergue and go along a very pretty path parallel to the Bernesga River. We cross the small town of Las Ventas de Alcedo and then see a grandiose aqueduct that has been renovated. The plaque on the wall notes that Melchor Gaspar de Jovellanos (a major 18 th century political figure, author, and philosopher in Spain s Age of Enlightenment) was very impressed with this construction and described it in his well-known diary. 19

20 A little further on, we will see the Bridge of Alba. It has three arches and belonged to the castle of the district of Alba. Following along the edge of the river, we arrive at the town of Puente de Alba. We will cross the town without getting on the national highway N-630 (which will always be on our left). We then get on the old highway, which has no traffic, and which preserves the appearance of the old highways lined with trees that used to exist throughout Spain. We go under the AVE overpass and arrive in Peredilla. We cross through the town and turn to the left, going through a tunnel underneath the national highway, 20

21 on a dirt path that takes us to the chapel of Buen Suceso. This chapel was declared a National Historic Monument on April 27, 1983, by the national Office of Fine Arts, Archives, and Libraries. We can get a bite to eat in a restaurant on the other side of the road. It opens at 7 in the morning, so if you didn t eat your breakfast in La Robla, you could try one of the restaurant s delicious and very famous tortillas. Continue parallel to the highway for another 100 m. At an intersection, we head to the town of Nocedo, crossing the railroad tracks and the Bernesga River. From this point on, the river will be on our right, and we will continue parallel with it. Arriving in Nocedo, we take the path to the right, which takes us to La Pola de Gordón, going through a passageway under the train tracks. If we plan to stay in the town of Buiza, it s a good idea to stock up on food here, because Buiza has no stores, and just one small club for the townspeople. Leaving La Pola de Gordón, we follow the Bernesga River, passing below a train bridge, go past the industrial park in the direction of Beberino, and in 1 km, 21

22 we leave the Bernesga River and start to follow the Casares River. Go through the town to an intersection with a sign pointing towards Folledo and Buiza. Buiza is 4 km from this point. Continue parallel to the Folledo stream a little after passing Folledo s chapel to Our Lady of the Valley. At the entrance to Buiza, we will see the pilgrims albergue, located in an old school building. The fountain out front never ceases to surprise with its very delicious, cold water. The albergue has 12 spots. Telephone: or (Angel, the wonderful hospitalero, and his mother are always there to help the pilgrim). 22

23 If we are continuing on from Buiza, it s a good time to rest up, because what lies ahead is the ascent to the Forcadas de San Antón, at 1458 m. This spot, which translates as the Pitchfork of Saint Anthony, takes its name from the shape of the jagged rocks jutting up. The Camino used to take the pilgrim to the church in Buiza, at which point there was a left hand turn, but now that the AVE construction is done, we can go via the original camino, which we will reach when we arrive at the new fountain (pictured below). At the fountain, located on the side of the road, we turn left and then turn right again. Right at that spot we will see another old wooden waymarker put there by Cuatro Valles and a yellow arrow. From this point on, for the next 2.5 km, we ascend to the Forcadas de San Antón. At some spots along this path, we can see the remains of an old road that reminds us of the routes taken by the mule-drivers through these rocky parts.. 23

24 Once we have gone beyond the Forcadas, we begin the descent on a lovely trail that goes through pine trees. Option 1 This first option stays on the main trail until reaching the second little concrete water hut (a shed owned by the water company, which is shown in the picture below). At that point, we must turn off to the left and get on a narrow path that takes us along the side of the hill to the high point, named El Barrancón. PAY ATTENTION AT THIS POINT!!!!! Though the turn is well marked to take you to the left at the water hut, if you are not paying attention, your instinct will be to continue ahead on the wide dirt path. 24

25 Once we re at the peak of Barrancón, we will see the town of Rodiezmo, which we leave to our right. We continue on to Poladura. Option 2 If we don t want to go over the Barrancón, we can continue on the main trail and pass through the Hoces de Rodiezmo, (a narrow gorge with steep rock walls on both sides, where the Rodiezmo River originates; however, the river may not always visible) until we arrive at the Cruz de la Salve (Cross of the Holy Queen). From this point, both the sanctuary of Golpejar and the Barrio chapel are visible. Pilgrims who walked this way used to pray to ask for protection when they saw the mountains they would have to cross the next day. 25

26 PAY CAREFUL ATTENTION AT THIS POINT At the Cross of the Holy Queen, we turn very sharply onto the trail that opens to our left. You can t get lost on it because it is wider that the path we have been on. But if you mistakenly keep on straight instead of turning here, you will wind up in the town of Rodiezmo. And from there the only way is to go on the dangerous highway. This option (past the Cross of the Holy Queen) is a good one if we see that the path that goes to the Barrancón has a lot of snow. It s also a good option for bicyclists. This path is only 200 m longer, and the two options merge after one km. 26

27 In this picture, we can see two pilgrims following the path of the Barrancón, and further on you can see the trail that comes from the Cross of the Holy Queen. A little further on, the two merge, and the path takes us to Poladura de la Tercia. The next town that we come to is San Martín de la Tercia. Poladura is 500 m further ahead, and we won t see it until we are almost on top of it. We go down towards San Martín, and the trail takes us to Poladura, passing over the bridge of the Romeros, which was reconstructed in

28 In Poladura we have an albergue with 14 spaces. Nando and María take care of it. It takes a huge effort to keep this albergue open, and we thank them and the town of Poladura. Telephone numbers for the albergue: OR

29 POLADURA DE LA TERCIA - PAJARES (14.8 km) We leave the albergue, going down the street until reaching the main road. Take it to the left, and just a few meters further on, shortly after crossing the river, we leave the road to begin the first of the ascents that we will have today. The ascent is continuous, with some false flats, which have a less strenuous incline, and will allow us to store up some energy. We keep going up on the most difficult part of this stage, from which we can see far away the Cross of the Salvador. This will serve as a lighthouse and guide for the pilgrims. Throughout this entire section of mountain paths, we will see these arrows and shells made of yellow metal, which guide us along the way 29

30 Finally, we arrive at the high point of the Romeros, and at the foot of the Cross of the Salvador. Sit down to take a look at the beauty that surrounds you. If you wonder why there is a cross here, you just have to look around and the answer should be obvious. Every year in August, there is a pilgrimage up to this cross. Many pilgrims participate, and you are warmly invited. 30

31 From the cross, there is very little distance to the Collada del Coito, the highest point on the Salvador, 1578 m. In the distance, you can see the town of Busdongo, where Amancio Ortega was born. (Ortega is a successful Spanish businessman in the world of fashion, best known for his chain of Zara stores). Ortega s father was working in the train station there, and at a young age, he moved to Galicia. Now it s time to go down, only to quickly go back up again, on the path that appears on our left. This path will take us to the Sierra del Cuchillo (translates as the knife mountain ridge, and the name refers to its shape). PAY CAREFUL ATTENTION AT THIS POINT!!!! 31

32 From the top of this ridge, we can see in the distance, the ancient church in Arbas. There are three paths to the right, which go towards the phone antennas. The path on the left goes up to the Canto la Tusa (name of a mountain peak). And in front of us, going down, is the path we should take. This path takes us to the paraje de las caballetas. This was a stop and refuge for the many horses that used to roam here. Cross the ditch and we will take a little path to the Church of Arbas. From above, we will have some very good views. We go down until we cross the Bernesga River through this gate: 32

33 After visiting the church, which used to be a pilgrims hospital, we get on the side of the national highway. When we reach some farm buildings, the camino goes behind them. We can also continue a bit more on the highway to see the huge building that was once a parador and is now empty. This building and the bar across the street from it are at the mountain pass called the Puerto de Pajares. Do not confuse this spot with the town of the same name, which is still several kms ahead. From the side of the bar, we can join the path that went behind the farm buildings, which you saw in the earlier pictures. This will not require any backtracking or additional meters. 33

34 If we have continued on the highway to the bar, the picture below shows where the path to get you back on the Camino leaves the highway and goes behind the bar. 100 meters further on, it will join the path that left the highway earlier. After 300 m of light ascent, we come to the border between León and Asturias. When we get to the high tension wires, we have to leave the path and cross through the gate, and then we will see the first granite waymarking from Asturias. BE CAREFUL AT THIS POINT!!! 34

35 Once through the gate, a steep descent begins, and it goes to the national highway. The Camino reaches the highway at a point where there is an emergency turnoff for trucks with brake failure. Go through the gate, cross the highway with extreme caution, and on the other side we see the camino that takes us to the town of Pajares in forests of beech and holly trees. We come to an intersection where we must decide whether to continue to the town of Pajares or go to San Miguel. For cyclists, I recommend that if you are going to sleep in Pajares, first follow the sign in direction of San Miguel and you will then arrive at another crossing that also indicates a choice between Pajares and San Miguel. At that second crossing, take the path to Pajares. For pilgrims who are going to sleep in Pajares, it is better to follow the sign for Albergue de Pajares, because you will save yourselves 5 km. If you are going to sleep in Bendueños, it s better to follow in the direction of San Miguel. 35

36 The contrast of the descent in forests of holly and beech trees, with the mountains we have just passed, makes this stage one of the prettiest of any Camino. In the town of Pajares, Marisa is waiting for us. The albergue is very nice, and the hospitalera is a delight. Another fact that distinguishes this Camino from others is the hospitality you will enjoy in all of the albergues. Albergue of Pajares: 10 spaces. Tel

37 PROFILE OF THE STAGE Poladura - Pajares: Distance 14.8 km Highest point: 1570 m Lowest point: m Total up and down: PAJARES - POLA DE LENA (26 km) We leave the Pajares albergue. Continue ahead on the street that brings us out to the highway N-630. We walk alongside that road for only 50 m, till we come to a steeply descending path on the left. 37

38 This path takes us to the village of San Miguel del Río. We go down the streets of this village and the road takes us to an intersection that indicates that Santa Marina is to the left. It also has a painted marker for Llanos de Somerón. Pay careful attention here, we have to go to the left, even though we will see a granite waymarker that indicates that we should go straight. If we continue straight, following the waymarker, we will be on asphalt the entire way to Puente los Fierros and it will be longer. PAY ATTENTION AT THIS POINT!!! 38

39 We cross the river and begin an ascent on the road to Santa Marina. When we reach the chapel, we have to pay attention. On the right side, there is a green gate, behind it is a private garage. We must pass through this gate. PAY ATTENTION AT THIS POINT!!!! We go through the farm a little, and we pass through two other wooden gates. 39

40 Now a beautiful path begins, and it will take us in 2 km to Llanos de Somerón. It goes through a forest with a very comfortable ascent. There are yellow arrows in the gates that show us it is the Camino, but pay attention. If you make a mistake at the chapel of San Martín, you will go around the back of the town on a very steep road. It s longer, and it takes your breath away, but it will also take you to Llanos de Somerón. 40

41 Once in Llanos, get on the road with no traffic, which takes us down to Puente los Fierros. Before entering the town of Puente los Fierros, we can see a path to the left. The sign says Fresnedo, and that is the path we should take. We go up to the hamlet of Fresnedo and continue on the ascending camino, which takes us through a beautiful woods. We go by the side of the Chapel of San Miguel and its fountain. 41

42 When we arrive at this house in Herias, we see the intersection and the road that goes to the church and former monastery of Bendueños. It s 1.5 km away, but if you call Sandra, she will come to pick you up at this point to bring you to her beautiful albergue. Telephone:

43 Sandra will make us lunch, dinner, and breakfast, all vegan food from her own garden. But you must contact her the day before so that she will come pick you up. She also needs to have some advance warning to be able to cook for you. But the albergue also has a kitchen if you wish to cook for yourself. Upon leaving Herias, you have a short ascent, and then start a prolonged and a steep descent to Campomanes. Once in Campomanes, the arrows take us to an intersection. Go to the right, cross the N-630 and keep straight ahead crossing the river. When we re on the other side of the bridge, turn left and get on a walkway that goes parallel to the river and takes us 3km further on to another jewel of the Camino, the church of Santa Cristina de Lena. 43

44 We arrive at an intersection, and the arrow indicates that we should turn to the right. Once we have gone under the small tunnel, we go up a small rocky path on a hill until we arrive at Santa Cristina. 44

45 This sign shows the hours of visiting: From Dec. 5 - March 13: 11-1, and 4-6 pm From April 1 - November 2: 11-1 and 4:30-6:30 pm. Closed on Monday. Closed from November 3 through December 4. Once we have visited the church, we continue on a pleasant descent another 300 m until arriving at the interpretative center devoted to pre-romanesque architecture, which is located in the old train station of La Cobertoria. We continue our walk to Pola de Lena. We enter the town by going through a tunnel beneath the highway. The albergue is located in a building dedicated to many community uses, and it is located at the side of the train station, in the upper part of town. 45

46 Albergue of Pola de Lena: 36 spots. Tel.: OR OR Paloma, Pibe and Merce are in charge, and they help make this a very pleasant stay for pilgrims. Once again, the hospitality on this Camino is extraordinary. PROFILE OF THE STAGE PAJARES - POLA DE LENA Distance: 26 km Initial elevation: 975 m Ending elevation: 325 m 46

47 POLA DE LENA- OVIEDO (34 KM) We leave the albergue on the left on the street Ramón y Cajal. Go down the stairs which take us along the Avenida de la Constitución until the Plaza of Alfonso X el Sabio. Cross the square, continue on the Calle Corporaciones de Lena. It takes us to the river, and there we take a service road that has no traffic. This road goes to the gas station of Villallana. A little before the gas station, the road turns to the left towards town, passing by the Church of Santiago, and an old pilgrims hospital. It follows alongside the old national highway AS-242. In about 500 m, we will arrive in the town of Ujo. At the entrance to town, get on a pedestrian pathway that parallels the river. It takes us first to Santullano and then on to Mieres del Camino. 47

48 Enter Mieres on the pedestrian bridge La Perra. Cross the river and follow in a straight line over the super highway. Continuing straight, we then cross underneath the train tracks. This tunnel leaves us on the street Manuel Llaneza. Keep straight on this street, pass alongside the Jovellanos Park and continue straight until reaching the street Teodoro Cuesta. At that street, turn left, and continue straight on Teodoro Cuesta until reaching the plaza of San Xuan de Requexo, where we will see the statute of the man pouring sidra, the typical Asturiancider. Continue on the Calle Oñón in the direction of La Rebollá. The Camino takes us to La Peña, where we find the albergue, located in the old school building on the side of the church. Albergue of Mieres: 18 places. Tel.: OR (thanks to Paulino, who works for the pilgrims to maintain the albergue). 48

49 If we are not sleeping in Mieres, we will continue walking in the direction of Padrún on highway AS We begin to ascend, and can enjoy some nice views of Mieres from the height of La Rebollá. We keep ascending on the road until we get to the high point of El Padrún. Then we enter the Valley of the Nalón River, leaving behind the Valley of the Caudal. We leave the highway on a path that opens up on the right, going down, to take us to the village of Casares. We continue on the highway AS-242 until we get to Olloniego. Enter the town by its train station. Pass on the side of the fountain of the Llocos. Instead of crossing over the train tracks, there is an underground passageway that connects with an overhead walkway that goes over the super highway. 49

50 We go down the main street of Olloniego. We cross the town and at the edge of town we see the Muñiz Tower, the Palace of Quirós, and we will see on the left, the remains of a medieval bridge. We continue on the road until we cross the bridge of Portazgo. There we see the old customs office and on the side we see a league marker that indicates that we are 1 ½ leagues from Oviedo. 50

51 LEAGUE MARKER Between the customs office and the league marker, a pretty path begins. We ascend on it. This path is also marked as a green path (local walking path called senda verde or via verde ) and it coincides in several spots with a Roman Road, where we can still see the old rocky pavement. We continue our ascent until Picullanza (the name of the high point). At that point we return to the highway, going to the right, and we arrive at La Venta del Aire and then San Miguel. Leaving San Miguel, we begin to descend on a path until we reach the stream of La Ceprosa. Cross it, and return to the road. We ascend on that road till Caxigal, and there take a road to the left to Los Prietos. Keep straight on, and we begin to descend. We will see the ruins of the chapel of Santiago de la Manjoya, and further down, we arrive at the church of Santiago de la Manjoya, which replaced the old chapel. 51

52 We go under the super highway and enter in Oviedo in the neighborhood of San Lázaro. Turn to the left through the Parque de Invierno (Winter Park), and we come out onto the street Gil de Blas. Follow the shells that appear embedded in the sidewalks. They take us across a traffic circle, where we see a monument to the pilgrim. Continue on the street, which takes us to the historic center, as we enter into the plaza of the Ayuntamiento (town hall). Go through the arch and continue straight until arriving at the Plaza of the Cathedral, which is the end of our Camino. 52

53 Our Camino del Salvador takes us to the Holy Cathedral of Oviedo. La Sancta Ovetensis with its Holy Chamber is the end of this pilgrimage. Albergue El Salvador de Oviedo. 50 places Calle Leopoldo Alás, 20Telephone:

54 PROFILE OF THE STAGE POLA DE LENA - OVIEDO 34 km Initial elevation: 323 m Final elevation: 245 m Maximum elevation: ULTREIA ET SUSEIA!!!!!! TRANSLATED BY LAURIE REYNOLDS Author and Photographer: jose antonio cuñarro ender 54