Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK OUR READERS AUTHOR THANKS. Simon Richmond

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1 618 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: A Akke Albada, Pascal Amez-Droz, Jack Arnold, Caroline Atkins B Ralph Bain, Caroline Baroud, Stephan Bauer, Adrian Beadles, Wendy Bell, Peter Berende, Jaimeson Bilodeau, Louise Blais, Gert Blockx, Stephen Bonsall, Patricia Bosch, Andrea Brimelow, Colin Bussey C Benjamin Carson, Kathryn Clarkson, Russell Clegg, Lucy Crane D Thu Danh, Lola Danlos, Owen Davies, Russell Donald, Alynda de Fluiter, Niels de Fluiter, Merijn de Veer, Bradley Draper E Michael Joseph Edwards, Michelle Elphinstone, Caroline Evans, Linda Evans F Wibo Feenstra, Paul Ferris, David Fletcher G Marc Glaudemans, Noel Gokel, Pilar Alvarez Gonzalez, Dan Gosser, Denise Groeneweg H Anna Hames, Janette Hartwig, Christian Hochleitner, Serge Hoffmann, Marjolein Hofman-Jonkers, Alan Holden, Wouter Hoogenraad, Van Havere Johnno J Sinead Joyce K Denis Kearney, Mohanan Kesavan, Ken Khor, Giel Klanker, Annerieke Kroon, Reto Krummenacher, Diana Kuan, Suzanne Kuiper L Tim Laslavic, Cher Chua Lassalvy, Jenny Leak, Si Poh Liang, Maud Loonen M Bevis Man, Emily Mannes, Jean-Paul Marchetti, Andrena McNabb, Ursa Mekis, Vijay Anand Mohan, Heather Monell, Daniel Moore, Willemijn Mors, Sahane Muftuoglu, Nerissa Murphy N Klemen Naversnik, Anthony Ng O Petra O Neill, Steve Oxlade P Alan Pails, Juan Pinto, Yuri Ponjee, Havana Poole, Florian Poppe, Patrick Post, Ian Prescott, Torben Prokscha R Cindy Rimmington, Andrée-anne Roberge, David Robertson, Ian Ross, Rick Ross, Helen Rudd, Shyam Rupani S Meg Satterthwaite, Ray Sinniger, Hari Sriskantha, Bob Simon, Eric Sivignon, Bettina Schömig, Barney Smith, Larry Stagg, Bart Steegmans, Maartje Sterk, Klaus Suemmerer T Mary Tan, Rachael Tan, Isla Tasker, Chris Sonja Thurnherr, Tranter, Bjorn Trompet, Kay Turner U Mark Uleman V Patricia Vacano, Paco van de Ven, Claudia van Dongen, Martijn van Tol, Lennart van Vliet, Maurice Varkevisser, Erik Vermeulen, Yvonne Verburgh-Laurense, Peter Voelger, Sabina Vogt W Catherine Waters, Carl Wagner, Esther Wapstra, Michael Weilguni, Katie Wenigmann, Jonas Wernli, Katrien Wuyts Y Kim Chan Yap, Peter Young Z Adrienne Zinn, Elie Zwiebel AUTHOR THANKS Simon Richmond Terima kasih to the great team of coauthors and to Ilaria for support from LP HQ. In Malaysia, many thanks to Alex Yong, Nani Kahar,

2 Peter Kiernan, Andrew Sebastian, Claudia Low, David Hogan Jr, Narelle McMurtrie, Chris Bauer, Eddy Chew, Adly Rizal, Karl Steinberg, Chris Ong. And to Neil for blissful company and encouraging me to capture the Malaysia I love through art as well as words. Cristian Bonetto A heartfelt xièxie to Jasmine Chai, Ally Wong, Walter Cheng Eng Teck, Mark Chng, Wayne Soon and Ian Chong for their incredible generosity and insight. Many thanks also to Ilaria Walker, Alvin Jin Tan, Yu Ying Cheng and Mary-Ann Gardner. Celeste Brash Thanks to Shannon Bryant for staying with me throughout and at the hospital. To Peck Choo Ho and Brandon Tan for beyondwonderful help, support and friendship; Richard Abraham for Johor stuff; Maryanne Netto for contacts and *sob* no chicken rice; Mani and Raymond; Dr Wan and the Endau- Rompin office. Ilaria and Simon, terima kasih for being awesome. As always, huge thanks to my family for letting me be me. Joshua Samuel Brown Thanks to my old chum Astrid P for being a most excellent travel companion for part of the research phase, Lauren Q for being half the team that steered us in circles around Pulau Kapas, and motorcycle guide extraordinaire Ronnie V for not getting me killed in Pahang. As always, thanks to Phil and Tammy at Pristine (Taiwan), and special thanks to Marina at Kibbutz Bardo in Taipei for giving me a space to call home before and after the journey. Austin Bush Thanks to talented LPers Ilaria Walker and Bruce Evans, my ever-roving coauthors, and the kind folks on the ground in Malaysia including Ahmad, Zac Chan, Robyn Eckhardt, Nazlina Hussin, Teong Ong Jin, Joann Khaw, Steve Khong, Mark Lay, Djohan Lee, Bee Yinn and CK Low, Narelle McMurtrie, Chris Ong, Wanida Razali, Khoo Salma, Simon and Rachel Tan, Stan and Pat Woolliscroft, and Jek Yap. Adam Karlin Terima kasih: Katie King, rock-star contact who redefines break dancing; the people who gave me insight, Charlie Ryan, Jessica Yew, Tom, Joel, Silas and Howard (I m greatly privileged to have met you, and to have had the opportunity to explore your island with you); Angelica, the baddest-ass bartender in Oakland, thanks for the laughs; Alex Zawadzki, Daniele Cohen, Serge, Johnny and the rest, your company was always hilarious; Mom and Dad, thanks for your constant support; and Rachel, for your love, and your voice every morning and evening when I m away. Daniel Robinson Scores of people went out of their way to make this a better book, but I m especially indebted to Amélie Blanc; Borbala Nyiri; Donald and Marina Tan; Eric and Annie Yap; Jacqueline Fong; Jo-Lynn Liao; Kelvin Egay; Polycarp; Mathew Ngau Jau; Philip Yong; Thomas Ulrich and Vernon Kedit (Kuching); Jessie, Noriza and Peter Tiong (Sibu); Paul Chuo; Sandra Kromdijk; Vincent Tiong and Wouter Mullink (Kapit); Camille de Kerchove; Captain David (Bennet); Elyn Chan and family, and Mrs Lee (Miri); Amy McGoldrick; Antonella Mori; Helen van Lindere; Jeremy Clark; Peter Hogge and my guides Bian Rumai, Esther Abu, Jeffry Simun, Susan Pulut and Syria Lejau (Gunung Mulu National Park); Apoi Ngimat; Jaman Riboh; Joanna Joy; Rebita Lupong; Rian John Pasan Lamulun; Stephen and Tine, and Stu Roach (Bario); Mr Lim (Chong Teah); Mr Chua (Eng Hin) and Ferdinand Gibson (Limbang); the dedicated staff of Sarawak s national parks; Glenn van Zutphen; Leonard Koh; Michelle Elias Solomon and Seng Beng Yeo and their families (Singapore); and, finally, my beloved wife Rachel Safman, our son Yair Lev and my mother-in-law Edie Safman (Los Angeles). ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Integrated Transit Network of Kuala Lumpur Map 2012 Tourism Malaysia Cover photograph: View over the Bharat Tea Estate, Cameron Highlands, Perak, Ross Barnett/Getty/Lonely Planet Images 619 BEHIND THE SCENES

3 620 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK Tony and Maureen Wheeler first researched Malaysia in 1973 when writing the book that started it all, Across Asia on the Cheap. Since then, many Lonely Planet authors have followed in their sandalled footsteps to make sure travellers get the most out of this wild region s idyllic beaches, spicy fusion cuisine and stunning colonial architecture. This 12th edition of Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei was researched and written by some of Lonely Planet s finest. Malaysia guru and veteran coordinating author Simon Richmond researched Kuala Lumpur, Selangor and Negeri Sembilan and led a star-studded team of travel writers: Cristian Bonetto, Celeste Brash, Austin Bush, Joshua Samuel Brown, Adam Karlin and Daniel Robinson. The Health chapter was based on research supplied by Dr Trish Batchelor. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet s Melbourne office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Ilaria Walker Coordinating Editor Mardi O Connor Coordinating Cartographer Alex Leung Coordinating Layout Designer Lauren Egan Managing Editors Barbara Delissen, Bruce Evans Senior Editor Andi Jones Managing Cartographers Adrian Persoglia, Anthony Phelan, Diana von Holdt Managing Layout Designer Chris Girdler Assisting Editors Jenna Myers, Karyn Noble, Ross Taylor, Gina Tsarouhas, Fionnuala Twomey, Jeanette Wall Assisting Cartographers Mick Garrett, Jolyn Philcox, Samantha Tyson Assisting Layout Designers Yvonne Bischofberger, Nicholas Colicchia, Kerrianne Southway Cover Research Naomi Parker Internal Image Research Aude Vauconsant Language Content Branislava Vladisavljevic Thanks to Dan Austin, Sasha Baskett, Laura Crawford, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Jane Hart, Jouve India, Asha Ioculari, Tobias Gattineau, Kate McDonell, Catherine Naghten, Trent Paton, Raphael Richards, Dianne Schallmeiner, Laura Stansfeld, Gerard Walker Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content.

4 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 621 Index 1Malaysia policy Heeren Street 213 8Q SAM 477 A Abu Bakar Mosque 252 accommodation, see also individual locations Brunei 454, 471 language 611 Malaysia Singapore 473, , 537, 538 Acheen St Mosque 155 activities 28-34, see also individual activities A Famosa 209, 212 A Famosa Resort Agnes Keith House 339 Air Batang (ABC) Air Hangat air travel airfares 600 airlines 600 airports 600 to/from Brunei to/from Malaysia 600 to/from Singapore within Malaysia 601 alcoholic drinks 584 Alor Gajah Alor Setar 200-4, 201 ambuyat 36, 82, 463, 581 amusement parks, see theme parks animals, see individual species, wildlife sanctuaries & reserves, zoos animism Annah Rais Longhouse apes, see orang-utans Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Aquaria KLCC 47 aquariums Aquaria KLCC 47 Lagenda Langkawi Dalam Taman 185 Underwater World (Pulau Langkawi) Underwater World (Sentosa Island) 498 architecture 20, 575 Ipoh 118 itineraries 144, 501, 144, 501 Penang 156 Putrajaya 104 Seremban Architecture Museum 209 area codes 19 art galleries, see galleries, museums arts 21, 574-8, see also individual arts contemporary sculpture 485 Asah Waterfall 246 Asian Civilisations Museum 477 Atkinson Clock Tower 306 ATMs 595 Aur, Pulau 239 Ayor Keroh 225 B Ba Kelalan 448 Baba House 483 Baba-Nonya, see Peranakan people Baba-Nonya Heritage Museum 214 Badan Warisan Malaysia 51 Badawi, Abdullah 560 Bahasa Malaysia (Malay), see language bak kut teh 38 Bako National Park Bakun Dam Project Balai Besar 202 Balai Nobat 202 Bandar Labuan 375-8, 376 Bandar Seri Begawan , 458 accommodation activities drinking 464 emergencies 465 entertainment 464 food internet access 465 macaques 461 medical services 465 money 465 postal services 465 road safety 457 shopping 464 sights tourist information 465 tours travel to/from travel within Bangar Banggi, Pulau 336 Bangsar Baru 65-6, 83-4, 86, 89-90, 84 Bank Kerapu 273 Bank Negara Malaysia Museum & Art Gallery 57 Bario Barisan Nasional (National Front) 548, 558, 560 basketry 577 Batang Ai Batang Duri 470 Batang Rejang bathrooms 541, 597 batik 577 courses & classes 59, 89, 250, 258, galleries 58 shopping 59, 89, 172, 250 Batu Caves 16, , 17 Batu Ferringhi Batu Maung 181 Batu Punggul Bau Bawang Assan Longhouse Village Bazaar Baru Chow Kit 67, 73 beaches Air Batang (ABC) Batu Ferringhi Brunei 460 Cherating , 259 Genting 250 Juara Kampung Paya 250 Mukut 251 Nipah 251 Port Dickson Pulau Besar (Johor) Pulau Besar (Melaka) Pulau Lang Tengah Pulau Langkawi 10, 189, 186-7, 11 Pulau Manukan 320 Pulau Pangkor , 135, 137 Pulau Perhentian 9, 286, 284, 9 Pulau Rawa Pulau Redang Pulau Sibu 238 Pulau Tinggi 238 Salang Singapore 500 Beaufort Beaufort Division bedbugs 609 bedil (cannons) 460 Bee Yinn Low 169 belacan 580 Belaga 425 Belait District bersilat (Malaysian martial art) 576 Besar, Pulau (Johor) Besar, Pulau (Melaka) bicycling, see cycling Bidayuh people 564

5 622 INDEX B - C Bidong Island 301 Bilit Bintulu 426-7, 428 binturong (bear cat) 245 bird-singing contest 277 birdwatching 34 Cape Rachado Forest Reserve 113, 114 Danum Valley Conversation Area 355 Endau-Rompin National Park 239 Fraser s Hill (Bukit Fraser) 102 Gomantong Caves 348, 350 Jurong Bird Park 498 Kenong Rimba State Park Kinabalu National Park 328 KL Bird Park 53 Mt Kinabalu 328 Taman Negara Perlis 205 Tawau Hills Park 367 Boat Quay 477 boat travel 602 to/from Brunei 465, 601 to/from Indonesia 601 to/from Singapore 601 to/from Thailand 601 to/from the Philippines 601 boat trips 34 Kuantan 254 Melaka River Cruise 216 Pulau Langkawi 190, 191 Sungai Kinabatangan Taman Negara 263 Boh Sungei Palas Tea Estate 127, 13 Bolkiah, Sultan Hassanal 568 books 548, , 574 environment 587, 589 history 552, 553, 554, 555, 556, 558 religion 569 border crossings 600-1, see also boat travel Brunei to Sabah 465 Brunei to Sarawak 466 Johor Bahru to Indonesia (Riau Islands) 234 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Johor Bahru to Singapore 232 Kedah to Thailand 203, 206 Kota Bharu to Thailand 280 Kuching to Indonesia 409 Malaysia to Indonesia 224 Sabah to Indonesia 366 Sabah to the Philippines 343 Sarawak to Brunei 439 Sarawak to Indonesia 451 Singapore to Johor Bahru 543, 544 Borneo, see Brunei, Sabah, Sarawak Borneo Sun Bear Conservation Centre Botanical Gardens 158 Brickfields 53-5, 65-6, 83, 89-90, 54 Brunei 43, , 455 accommodation 454, 471 budget 471 climate 454 currency 471 drugs & alcohol 471 economy 550 emergencies 471 food 454 highlights 455 history 555 holidays 471 legal matters 471 medical services 471 money 465, 471 politics 550, 568 postal services 465 public holidays 471 tourist information 465, 471 travel seasons 454 travel to/from travel within visas 471 women travellers 471 Brunei Museum 460 Buddha Tooth Relic Temple 484 Buddhism 160, budgeting 18, 471, 538, 592, 594 Bukit Brown Cemetery 496 Bukit China 215 Bukit Fraser (Fraser s Hill) 102-4, 103 Bukit Gemok Forest Reserve 364 Bukit Larut 146 Bukit Malawati 108 Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve 47 Bukit Timah Nature Reserve 494 bumiputra (indigenous Malaysians) 559, 565 bus travel within Malaysia 602 within Singapore business hours Malaysia 593 Singapore 537 butterflies 331 Butterfly Park 55 Cameron Highlands Butterfly Farm 129 Penang Butterfly Farm 180 Zoo Negara (National Zoo) 100 C cable cars 101 Cameron Bharat Tea Plantation 127 Cameron Highlands 13, , 128, 131, 13 accommodation food sights tea 127, 133 tours 129 travel to/from 133 travel within 133 trekking 130 camping 592 canopy walkways Danum Valley Conservation Area 355 Forestry Research Institute of Malaysia (FRIM) 100 Gunung Mulu National Park 440 Hutan Rekreasi Air Keroh 225 MacRitchie Reservoir 495 Maliau Basin Conservation Area 368 Pulau Langkawi 192 Sabah 331 Taman Negara Ulu Temburong National Park Cape Rachado Forest Reserve 113, 114 car travel within Malaysia within Singapore Carey, Pulau 107 casinos 101 Cat Musuem 389 Cathay Gallery 408 Cave Villa caves Batu Caves 16, , 17 Batu Tulug Dark Cave 99 Deer Cave 440, 502-3, 511 Fairy Cave 412 Gomantong Caves 348, 350 Gua Charas 258 Ipoh s temple caves 119 Lang s Cave 440 Mulu s adventure caves Mulu s show caves Niah National Park Sleeping Buddha Cave 258 Taman Negara Perlis 205 Tasik Chini 252, 588 Tasik Kenyir 302 caving 33, 412 cell phones 19 in Malaysia 597 in cemeteries Bukit Brown Cemetery 496 Bukit China 215 Commonwealth Allied War Cemetery 142 Kranji War Memorial 495 Protestant Cemetery 156 cendol 36-8, 582 Central Market (Kota Bharu) 279, 75, 78-9 Central Market (Kota Kinabalu) 306 Changi Changi Museum & Chapel 491 Changi Village char kway teow 38 Cheah Kongsi 158 Cheng Ho Cultural Museum 214 Cheng Hoon Teng Temple 214 Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion 159

6 623 Cherating , 259 children, travel with 61, 593-4, Chiling Waterfall 101 Chinatown (George Town) 151-5, 163, 165, Chinatown (Kuala Lumpur) 16, 51-3, 61-2, 72, 86, 89, 50-1, 16, 80 Chinatown (Melaka City) , , Chinatown (Singapore) 483-5, , 520-2, 528-9, 534-5, Chinatown Wet Market 67 Chinese Heritage Museum 229 Chinese New Year 22, 35 Chinese opera 576 Chinese people 563 Chingay 22 Chow Kit 55-7, 56-7 churches Changi Museum & Chapel 491 Church of the Visitation 111 St Andrew s Cathedral 483 St Michael s & All Angels Church 339 St Paul s Church 212 St Peter s Church 215 Wesley Church 111 cinema civets 268 Clan Jetties 156 clanhouses 151-3, 158 Clarke Quay 477 classes, see courses & classes climate 18, 22-3, see also individual regions Brunei 454 Malaysia 594 Singapore 473 Clock Tower 202 coffee (kopi) 583 coffee shops (kopi tiams) 39, 581 Colonial District , , , 527-8, 533-4, Commonwealth Allied War Cemetery 142 Confucianism consulates Malaysia 594 Singapore 538 contemporary art 21, 578 costs 18, 471, 538, 592, 594 courses & classes batik 59, 89, 250, 258, cooking 36, 59, 159, 177, , 273-6, 389, 513 gamelan 59 horse-riding 258 language 59 meditation 59 music & dance pewtersmithing 59 surfing 249, 257 yoga 58, 159, 513 crafts 21, 577, see also markets, shopping credit cards 595 cruises, see boat trips culture currency 18 Malaysia Singapore curries 580 customs regulations Malaysia 594 Singapore 537 cycling, see also mountain biking Melaka City 216 Malaysia D dance 59-60, 88, 533, dangers 596-7, 603 Danum Valley Conservation Area 9, 354-6, 8 Dark Cave 99 Dayak people Dayang, Pulau 239 Deepavali 23, 35 deer 271 Deer Park 55 Deerland 271 Dempsey Hill 493 dengue fever desserts 395, 582 diarrhoea, traveller s 607 Din Tai Fung 520 disabilities, travellers with Malaysia 598 Singapore 541 diving 6, 28, 508, see also snorkelling Bandar Labuan 375 costs 34 health 608 Layang Layang Mabul planning 33-4 Pulau Aur 239 Pulau Dayang 239 Pulau Kapas Pulau Langkawi Pulau Lankayan Pulau Mantanani 336 Pulau Pemanggil 239 Pulau Perhentian 283-5, 287 Pulau Redang Pulau Sibu 238 Pulau Tinggi 238 Pulau Tioman Semporna Archipelago Sipadan 6, , 3, 7 Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park dolphins 405, 407, 498 Dr Ho Eng Hui 222 Dr Sun Yat Sen s Penang Base 154 Dragon Boat Festival 22-3 drama drinking water 607 drinks 584 driving, see car travel drugs 471, 595 Durian Perangin 188 durians 583 E East Coast Park 489 East India Company Eastern & Oriental Hotel 163, 166 economy 550, ecotourism accommodation 300, 335, 351, 356, 436 food 314 sights tour operators 295, 311 electricity 538, 593, 594 elephants 239, 270-1, 505 embassies Malaysia 594 Singapore 538 emergencies 19, 471, 613 Emergency, the 555, 557 endangered species 344, 415, 586, 589 Endau 252 Endau-Rompin National Park , 240 environmental issues 270, Esplanade Theatres on the Bay 481 events 22-3 exchange rates 19 Expedition Robinson 237 EZ-Link card 546 F fax services 597 festivals 22-3, 514 food 390 Hindu 16, 571 Islamic 570 film fireflies 108, 257, 300 Fish Cave (Gua Ikan) 282 fish heads, steamed 38 fishing Cherating 257 Taman Negara 262 Tasik Kenyir 302 folk medicine 610 food 35-9, , 594, see also individual foods & regions cooking courses 36, 59, 159, 177, , 273-6, 389, 513 desserts 395, 582 language street 6 tours 60 Forestry Research Institute of Malaysia (FRIM) 100 forts Fort Canning Park 481 Fort Cornwallis 156 Fort Siloso Fort Sylvia 422 Fraser s Hill (Bukit Fraser) 102-4, 103 FRIM (Forestry Research Institute of Malaysia) 100 fruit 583 G Galeri Pengangkutan Air 253 Galeri Petronas 47 Galeri Sultan Abdul Halim 202 Galeria Perdana 190 galleries, see also museums Bank Negara Malaysia Museum & Art Gallery 57 Cathay Gallery 489 Galeri Petronas 47 INDEX C - G

7 624 INDEX G -J galleries continued Gillman Barracks 498 KL City Gallery 52 Melaka City 214 National Visual Art Gallery 58 State Art Gallery 202 gardens, see also parks & reserves Botanical Gardens 158 Lake Gardens Park (Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park) 54-5 Lake Gardens (Seremban) 109 National Orchid Garden 489 Singapore Botanic Gardens Taman Botani 104 Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park (Lake Gardens Park) 54-5 Gardens by the Bay gay travellers 538-9, 595 Kuala Lumpur 87 Melaka City 223 Singapore 532 Gaya, Pulau 320 Genting 250 Genting Highlands 101 Genting Skyway 101 George Town 10, , 152-3, 10, 21 accommodation Chinatown 151-5, 163, 165, courses 159 drinking entertainment festivals & events 160, 162 food internet access 174 internet resources Little India 155-7, 166, medical services 174 money 174 postal services 174 shopping sights tourist information tours , 161, 161 travel agencies 174 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 travel to/from travel within 176 walking tours 161, 161 George Town World Heritage Inc. Headquarters 156 Geylang 489 Geylang Serai Wet Market 491 giardiasis 607 gibbons, white-handed 205 Gillman Barracks 498 golf Alor Gajah Gopeng 125 Kemasik 301 Santubong Peninsula 406 Singapore 512 Tioman 247 Gomantong Caves 348, 350 Gombak Gopeng Gua Charas 258 Gua Ikan (Fish Cave) 282 Gua Kelam 205 Gua Wang Burma 205 guesthouses 592 Gunung Bengoh Gunung Gading National Park Gunung Kinabalu, see Kinabalu National Park Gunung Ledong National Park 235 Gunung Mulu National Park , 32, 503 Gunung Raya 189 Gunung Stong State Park 282 H Hainan Temple 155 Hainanese chicken-rice 38, 81 handicrafts, 21, 577, see also individual crafts hantu jarang gigi (snaggletoothed ghost) 241 Haw Par Villa 497 hawker stalls George Town 170, 37 Johor Bahru 232 Kota Kinabalu 316 Kuala Lumpur 66, 71, 72, 83 Melaka City 220 Singapore 522 Tawau 365 health diving 608 environmental hazards infectious diseases language 613 malaria 607 traditional medicine 610 vaccinations 606 heat stroke 608 helicopter flights 191 Heritage District 229 Hidden Valley (Lost World) hiking, see trekking, walking hill stations Bukit Larut 146 Cameron Highlands 13, , 128, 13 Fraser s Hill (Bukit Fraser) 102-4, 103 Genting Highlands 101 Hinduism 571 history Asian financial crisis Badawi, Abdullah 560 Borneo British rule Dutch rule 553 East India Company Emergency, the 555, 557 Ibrahim, Anwar 558, 559 Mahathir, Mohamad 558 Malay independence 557 Malaya, Federation of Melaka empire Napoleon Portuguese rule 553 WWII 556 hitching 603 holidays Malaysia Holland Village 493 home stays 592 George Town 166 Kelantan 282 Kota Bharu 277 Penang 181 Semporna Archipelago 359 Sungai Kinabatangan 352 Temerloh 271 hostels 592 hot springs, see also spas Air Hangat Sabah 331 Tawau Hills Park 367 hotels House of Yeap Chor Ee 156 Hui, Dr Ho Eng 222 Hulu Klang 100 Hungry Ghost Festival 23 Hutan Rekreasi Air Keroh 225 I Iban (Sea Dayak) people 564 Ibrahim, Anwar 558, 559 Images of Singapore 500 Imbi Market 66 immigration 600 Indian people 563 indigenous peoples Bidayuh 564 Iban (Sea Dayak) 564 Minangkabau 109 Orang Asli 240, 252, 261, 269, Penan 447 insurance car 603 health 539 travel 595 internet access 595, see also individual locations internet resources 19, 548, see also individual locations food & drink 575 health 606, 607 Ipoh , Iskandar Development Region 229 Islam 552, 568, Islamic Arts Museum 53 Islamic Museum 209 Istana Abu Bakar 252 Istana Lama 112 Istana Permai 252 itineraries 24-7, 24-7 Kuala Lumpur 53 Singapore 481 J Jaan 519 jackfruit 583 Jalan Alor 71 Jalan Labi 467 Jalan Petaling 51

8 625 Jek Yap 129 Jerantut 265-7, 266 Jerejak, Pulau 180 Johor 41, , 228 accommodation 227 activities 227 climate 227 highlights 228 travel seasons 227 Johor Bahru , 230 Johor National Parks Corporation 239 Jonker s Walk Night Market 15, 222, 223, 15 Juara Jurong Bird Park 498 K Kadazan-Dusun people 565 kain songket (fabric with gold thread) 577 Kampong Glam 487-8, 524-5, 529, 535, 486 Kampung Ayer 9, 456, 8 Kampung Baru 55-7, 56-7 Kampung Baru Mosque 57 Kampung Baru Night Market 83 Kampung Benuk 408 Kampung Chitty 215 kampung houses 575 Kampung Kling Mosque 214 Kampung Paya 250 Kampung Pulau Betong Kangar Kapalai 363 Kapas, Pulau Kapit 422-5, 424 Katong kayaking 34 Cherating 257 Pulau Tioman 249 Kedah 41, , 184 accommodation 183 climate 183 food 183 highlights 184 travel seasons 183 kek lapis (striped layer cakes) 395 Kek Lok Si Temple Kelabit Highlands 12, Kelantan , accommodation 272 climate 272 food 272 highlights travel seasons 272 Kemasik 301 Kenong Rimba State Park kerabu beromak 38 Khoo Kongsi Kinabalu National Park 13, , 323, 329, 13, 511 accommodation climbing trails food 330 permits planning travel to/from 330 via ferrata 327 walking Kinabatangan Orang-utan Conservation Project (KOCP) 349 Kinabatangan River Kinta Heritage 129 Kinta Valley Heritage Loop 126 kite festival 277 kites 577 KL Bird Park 53 KL City Gallery 52 KL Festival 60 KL Train Station 55 Klang Klang Valley KLIA (Kuala Lumpur International Airport) 19, 91, 600 kongsi (Chinese clanhouses) 151-3, 158 kopi (coffee) 583 kopi tiams (coffee shops) 39, 581 Kota Belud Kota Bharu 14, , 276, 281, 14 Kota Kinabalu , 308 accommodation activities drinking emergencies 317 entertainment food internet access 317 medical services 317 money postal services 318 shopping 317 sights tourist information 313 tours travel to/from travel within Kota Kuala Kedah 204 Kota Mahsuri Kranji War Memorial 495 Kris Cave 282 Kuah 185, 192-3, 196 Kuala Belait 468 Kuala Gandah Elephant Conservation Centre Kuala Kangsar 140-2, 141 Kuala Kedah 204 Kuala Kubu Bharu 101 Kuala Lipis Kuala Lumpur 40, 46-96, 48-9, 56-7, 63 accommodation 46, 60-6 activities 58 Bangsar Baru 65-6, 83-4, 86, 89-90, 84 Brickfields 53-5, 65-6, 83, 89-90, 54 children, travel with 61 Chinatown 16, 51-3, 61-2, 72, 86, 89, 50-1, 16, 80 climate 46 courses drinking 84-6 entertainment 86-8 festivals & events 60 food 46, 66-7, 70-2, 83-4 Golden Triangle 47, 51, 62-4, 66-7, 70-1, 85-6, 88-9, 68-9 highlights 48-9 history 47 internet access 90 internet recources 91 itineraries 53 Little India 55, 57, 64, 72 medical services 91 money 91 postal services 91 shopping sights 47, 51-8 Titiwangsa 58, 59 tourist information 91 tours 60 travel seasons 46 travel to/from 91-3 travel within 93-6, 95 Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA) 19, 91, 600 Kuala Pilah Kuala Selangor Kuala Terengganu 295-9, 296 Kuan Yin Teng 154 Kuantan 254-7, 255 Kubah National Park Kuching 11, , 384-5, 401, 11 accommodation activities 389 climate 379 courses 389 drinking emergencies 397 entertainment festivals & events 390 food internet access 397 medical services 397 money 397 postal services 397 shopping 396 sights tourist information tours travel to/from travel within Kuching Wetlands National Park Kudat L Labrador Nature Reserve 497 Labrador Secret Tunnels 497 Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary Lagenda Langkawi Dalam Taman 185 Lahad Datu Lake Gardens Park (Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park) 54-5 Lake Titiwangsa 58, 59 laksa 394, 77, 80 Lambir Hills National Park Lang Tengah, Pulau Langkawi 10, 41, , 184, 186-7, 11 accommodation 183, activities , climate 183 drinking festivals & events 192 food 183, highlights 184 internet access 199 internet resources 199 INDEX J - L

9 626 INDEX L- M Langkawi continued medical services 199 money 199 shopping 199 sights tourist information 199 tours travel seasons 183 travel to/from travel within 200 Langkawi Bird Paradise 185 Langkawi Crocodile Farm 188 Lankayan, Pulau language 18, 59, 566, Layang Layang leeches 262, 608 legal matters Malaysia 595 Singapore 539 Legoland 231 Lei Shen Gong Buddhist Temple 252 lesbian travellers 538-9, 595 Kuala Lumpur 87 Melaka City 223 Singapore 532 Limbang literature 574, see also books Little India (George Town) 155-7, 166, Little India (Kuala Lumpur) 55, 57, 64, 72 Little India (Melaka City) 215 Little India (Singapore) 485-7, , 525, 529, 535, 486 Little Penang Street Market 173 lizards, monitor 248, 257, 320, 321 Loke Mansion 57 longhouses 15, 565, 593 Annah Rais Longhouse Batang Rejang 421, 423, 425 Bawang Assan Longhouse Village Pulau Kapas 294 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Sarawak Cultural Village 404, 15 Lundu 413 M Mabul macaques 205, 245, 402, 461, 504 MacRitchie Reservoir 495 Mahathir, Marina 567 Mahathir, Mohamad 558 Mahathir s Birthplace Malabar Muslim Jama-Ath Mosque malaria 607 Malay people Malaya, Federation of Malayan Railway Administration Building 55 Malaysia accommodation business hours 593 camping 592 climate 594 consulate 594 customs regulations 594 disabilities, travellers with 598 embassies 594 food history 556-7, 560 holidays 596 home stays 592 legal matters 595 maps 595 money politics 548-9, population 548 postal services 596 tourist information tours 604 travel to/from travel within visas 598 volunteering 598 women travellers 599 work 599 Maliau Basin Conservation Area Malihom 182 malls George Town Johor Bahru Kuala Lumpur Melaka City 223 Singapore 533-4, Mantanani, Pulau 336 Manukan, Pulau 320 maps 595 Marang Mariamnan Hindu Temple 252 Marina Bay , 520, Maritime Experiential Museum 498 Maritime Museum & Naval Museum 213 markets 6-7, 14 Bazaar Baru Chow Kit 67, 73 Central Market (Kota Bharu) 279, 75, 78-9 Central Market (Kota Kinabalu) 306 Central Market (Kuala Lumpur) 89 Imbi Market 66 Jalan Petaling 51 Jonker s Walk Night Market 15, 222, 223, 15 Kampung Baru Night Market 83 Kuala Lumpur 67 Little Penang Street Market 173 Pulau Langkawi night market 197 Sibu Central Market 419 Masjid Jamek 51 Masjid Kampung Hulu 214 Masjid Kapitan Keling 157 Masjid Negara 55 Masjid Negeri 254 Masjid Zahir 202 Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) 546 massage Batu Ferringhi 177 Kuala Lumpur 58 Melaka City 216 Ranau 331 Singapore 512 Mataking 363 Matang Mangrove Forest Reserve Matang Wildlife Centre Maxwell Rd Hawker Centre 521 McMurtrie, Narelle 194 measures Malaysia 593 media 578 medical services 606, see also individual locations medicine, traditional & folk 610 Melaka 41, , 208 accommodation 207 climate 207 food 207 highlights 208 travel seasons 207 Melaka City , accommodation activities Chinatown , , drinking 222 emergencies 223 entertainment festivals & events 216 food internet access 224 medical services 224 money 224 postal services 224 shopping 223 sights 209, tourist information tours 216 travel to/from 224 travel within Melaka Zoo 225 Menara Alor Star Menara Taming Sari 216 Merang Merdeka Square 52 Mersing 234-7, 236 Mesilau Nature Resort metalwork 577 Minangkabau people 109 Miri 432-8, 434 mobile phones 19 Malaysia 597 money 18, 19 Brunei 465, 471 Malaysia Singapore moneychangers 596 monkeys 257, 268, 345-6, see also individual species mosques Abu Bakar Mosque 252 Acheen St Mosque 155 Kampung Baru Mosque 57 Kampung Kling Mosque 214

10 627 Malabar Muslim Jama- Ath Mosque Masjid Jamek 51 Masjid Kampung Hulu 214 Masjid Kapitan Keling 157 Masjid Negara 55 Masjid Negeri 254 Masjid Zahir 202 Sultan Abdullah Mosque 252 Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque 229 Sultan Mosque 487 motorcycle travel mountain biking 311, 494, 544, see also cycling mountain climbing costs 28, 31 Gunung Mulu Summit 442 Mt Kinabalu 13, , 323, 329, 13, 511 planning 31-3 Pulau Berhala 349 Mr Raja 119 MRT (Mass Rapid Transit) 546 Mt Kinabalu, see Kinabalu National Park Muar 234 Mukut 251 museums 21, see also galleries Architecture Museum 209 Asian Civilisations Museum 477 Baba House 483 Baba-Nonya Heritage Museum 214 Bank Negara Malaysia Museum & Art Gallery 57 Brunei Museum 460 Cat Museum 389 Changi Museum & Chapel 491 Cheng Ho Cultural Museum 214 Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion 159 Chinese Heritage Museum 229 Chinese History Museum 382 Dr Sun Yat Sen s Penang Base 154 Galeri Pengangkutan Air 253 Galeri Sultan Abdul Halim 202 Galeria Perdana 190 House of Yeap Chor Ee 156 Images of Singapore 500 Islamic Arts Museum 53 Islamic Museum 209 Laman Padi Mahathir s Birthplace Maritime Experiential Museum 498 Maritime Museum & Naval Museum 213 Museum Sultan Abu Bakar 253 Muzium Diraja 202 Muzium Kota Kayang Muzium Negeri (Alor Setar) 200 Muzium Negeri Perlis 205 Muzium Negeri (Seremban) Muzium Perak 142 Muzium Rakyat 209 National Museum 53-4 National Museum of Singapore National Textiles Museum 52-3 NUS Museums 497 Orang Asli Museum P Ramlee House Paddy Museum 204 Penang Museum Peranakan Museum 477 Petrosains 57 Pinang Peranakan Mansion 155 Royal Abu Bakar Museum 229 Sultanate Palace 212 music 59-60, 549, Muzium Diraja 202 Muzium Kota Kayang Muzium Negeri (Alor Setar) 200 Muzium Negeri Perlis 205 Muzium Negeri (Seremban) Muzium Rakyat 209 N nasi lemak 39, 74, 122 National Front (Barisan Nasional) 548, 558, 560 National Monument 54 National Museum 53-4 National Museum of Singapore National Orchid Garden 489 national parks, see parks & reserves National Planetarium 55 National Textiles Museum 52-3 National Visual Art Gallery 58 Negeri Sembilan 40, , 98 accommodation 97 climate 97 food 97 highlights 98 history 99 travel seasons 97 newspapers Malaysia 593 Niah National Park Night Market (Kota Bharu) 278 Night Safari 17, 494 Nipah 251 noodles 580, 76 O opening hours Malaysia 593 Singapore 537 opera, Chinese 576 Orang Asli people 240, 252, 261, 269, Orang Asli Museum orang-utans 10, 333, 343-4, 345, 349, 407-8, 10, 504 Orchard Road 488-9, 518, 526-7, , 535-6, 490 Oriental Village P P Ramlee House Paddy Museum 204 Pahang 42, , 243, 14 accommodation 242 climate 242 food 242 highlights 243 travel seasons 242 palaces Ampang Tinggi Palace 109 Istana Abu Bakar 252 Istana Alam Shah 106 Istana Iskandanah 140 Istana Lama 112 Istana Maziah 295 Istana Nurul Iman 459 Istana Permai 252 palm oil Pangkor, Pulau , 135, 137 Pantai Tengah 190-1, 190 parks & reserves 31, see also gardens Bako National Park Batang Ai National Park Bukit Gemok Forest Reserve 364 Bukit Nanas Forest Reserve 47 Bukit Timah Nature Reserve 494 Cape Rachado Forest Reserve 113, 114 Danum Valley Conservation Area 9, 354-6, 8 East Coast Park 489 Endau-Rompin National Park , 240 Forestry Research Institute of Malaysia (FRIM) 100 Fort Canning Park 481 Gunung Gading National Park Gunung Legan National Park 235 Gunung Mulu National Park , 32, 503 Gunung Stong State Park 282 Kenong Rimba State Park Kinabalu National Park 13, , 323, 329, 13, 511 Kubah National Park Kuching Wetlands National Park Lambir Hills National Park MacRitchie Reservoir 495 Matang Mangrove Forest Reserve Mesilau Nature Resort Niah National Park Penang National Park INDEX M - P

11 628 INDEX P- R parks & reserves continued Royal Belum State Park Similajau National Park Southern Ridges Tabin Wildlife Reserve Talang-Satang National Park Taman Negara 12, 260-5, 261, 12 Taman Negara Perlis Taman Wetland 104 Tanjung Datu National Park 415 Tawau Hills Park 367 Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park Wind Cave Nature Reserve Pasir Ris passports 600 Pavilion KL 88 Pekan 252-4, 253 Pelabuhan Klang Pemanggil, Pulau 239 Penan people 447 Penan villages 452 Penang 41, , 150, see also George Town accommodation 149 architecture 156 climate 149 food 149, 76, 77 highlights 150 history travel seasons 149 Penang Butterfly Farm 180 Penang Hill 157 Penang Museum Penang National Park Penarik 300 Penarik Firefly Sanctuary 300 Peradayan Forest Reserve 470 Perak 40, , 117 accommodation 116 climate 116 food 116 highlights 117 history 118 travel seasons 116 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Peranakan Museum 477 Peranakan people 564 Perhentian, Pulau 9, , 284, 9 Perhentian Museum 477 Perlis 41, 204-6, 184 accommodation 183 climate 183 food 183 highlights 184 travel seasons 183 permits Kenong Rimba State Park 269 Kinabalu National Park Taman Negara 260 Upper Rejang 422 Petaling Jaya Petronas Towers 55, 57, 81 Petrosains 57 pewtersmithing 59 photography 596 Pinang, Pulau, see Penang Pinang Peranakan Mansion 155 Ping Anchorage 295 planning, see also individual regions budget 18, 471, 538, 592, 594 calendar of events 22-3 caving 33 children, travel with 61, 593-4, diving 33-4 food & dining 35-9 internet resources 19 itineraries 24-7, 53, 481, 24-7 Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei basics Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei s regions 40-3 mountain climbing 31-3 rock climbing 31-3 snorkelling 33-4 surfing 34 travel seasons 18, 22-3 trekking politics 548-9, 550, 562-8, Pom Pom 363 population 548, Port Dickson Porta de Santiago 209, 212 postal services, see also individual locations Brunei 465 Malaysia 596 proboscis monkeys Protestant Cemetery 156 public holidays Malaysia Publika 90 Pudu Market 67 Pulau Aur 239 Pulau Banggi 336 Pulau Besar (Johor) Pulau Besar (Melaka) Pulau Carey 107 Pulau Dayang 239 Pulau Gaya 320 Pulau Jerejak 180 Pulau Kapas Pulau Lang Tengah Pulau Langkawi 10, 41, , 184, 186-7, 11 accommodation 183, activities , climate 183 drinking festivals & events 192 food 183, highlights 184 internet access 199 internet resources 199 medical services 199 money 199 shopping 199 sights tourist information 199 tours travel seasons 183 travel to/from travel within 200 Pulau Lankayan Pulau Mantanani 336 Pulau Manukan 320 Pulau Pangkor , 135, 137 Pulau Pemanggil 239 Pulau Perhentian 9, , 284, 9 Pulau Rawa Pulau Redang Pulau Sapi 320 Pulau Satang 416 Pulau Selirong 470 Pulau Sibu 238 Pulau Sipadan 6, , 3, 7 Pulau Sulug 321 Pulau Talang-Talang 416 Pulau Tinggi 238 Pulau Tioman 14, , 244, 14 accommodation diving & snorkelling drinking food walking Pulau Ubin 494 puppetry, shadow 575, 577 Putrajaya Q Quays, the 477, , 520, 528, 533-4, R rabies 596, 607 radio Malaysia 593 Raffles, Stamford 554 rafflesias , 510 rafting 34, 32 Rainforest World Music Festival 23 Raja, Mr 119 Ramadan 36, 457 Raptor Watch Festival 114 Raub Rawa, Pulau Razak, Najib 560 Redang, Pulau refunds 596 Regatta Lepa 360 religion 549, 552, reptiles, see individual species reserves, see parks & reserves, wildlife sanctuaries & reserves resthouses 593 rhinoceros, Sumatran 239, rice 580 river cruises, see boat trips River Safari 495 Robertson Quay 477 rock climbing 31-3, 349 roti canai 38, 37 Royal Abu Bakar Museum 229 Royal Belum State Park Royal Pahang Polo Club 252 rubber trees 140

12 629 S Sabah 42, , 305 accommodation 304 climate 304 food 304 highlights 305 history travel seasons 304 safety 596-7, 603 sailing 34 Salang salt licks 448 sambal 580 Sandakan , 338 Sandakan Archipelago Santubong Peninsula Sapi, Pulau 320 Sapulot Sarawak 42, , accommodation 379 climate 379 food 379 highlights history 382, travel seasons 379 Sarawak Cultural Village 404-5, 15 Satang, Pulau 416 sculpture 485 Sea Dayak (Iban) people 564 Sekayu Falls 302 Selangor 40, , 98 accommodation 97 climate 97 food 97 highlights 98 history 99 travel seasons 97 Selirong, Pulau 470 Sematan Semenggoh Nature Reserve Semporna 357-9, 358 Semporna Archipelago Sentosa Island , , 527, 530-1, 499 Sepilok 343-7, 344 Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Centre (SORC) 10, 343-4, 10, 504 Seremban , 110 Seria Seribuat Archipelago shadow puppetry 575, 577 Shah Alam 106 shopping 21, see also malls, markets arts & crafts 89, 90, batik 59, 89, 172, 250 electronics 89 fine art 90 language 613 shrines siat 38 Sibu, Pulau 238 Sibu , 418 Sibu Central Market 419 silat (Malaysian martial art) 576 Similajau National Park Singamata 361 Singapore 43, , 474-5, 492 accommodation 473, , 537, 538 activities 500, addresses 476 budget 538 business hours 537 CBD 483-5, 520-2, 528-9, Chinatown 483-5, , 520-2, 528-9, 534-5, climate 473 Colonial District , , , 527-8, 533-4, consulates 538 courses 513 culture customs regulations 537 disabilities, travellers with 541 drinking electricity 538 embassies 538 emergencies 538 entertainment festivals & events food 473, 488, , 538 Geylang 489 highlights history 476 holidays internet access internet resources 537 itineraries 481 Kampong Glam 487-8, 524-5, 529, 535, 486 Katong language 615 legal matters 539 Little India 485-7, , 525, 529, 535, 486 Marina Bay , 520, medical services 539 money Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) 546 Orchard Road 488-9, 518, 526-7, , 535-6, 490 politics postal services 540 Pulau Ubin 494 Quays, the 477, , 520, 528, 533-4, Sentosa Island , , 527, 530-1, 495 shopping sights teahouses 530 telephone services 540 Tiong Bahru 488 tipping 540 tourist information 541 tours travel seasons 473 travel to/from travel within visas 541 walking tours 501, 501 Singapore Botanic Gardens Singapore Hotel Association 515 Singapore Science Centre 497 Singapore Tourist Pass 546 Singapore Zoo 17, 493, 17 Singlish 615 Sipadan, Pulau 6, , 3, 7 Sleeping Buddha Cave 258 Snake Temple 181 snakes 609, 12 snorkelling 9, 28, see also diving Layang Layang planning 33-4 Pulau Kapas Pulau Langkawi Pulau Mantanani 336 Pulau Manukan 320 Pulau Pangkor 136 Pulau Perhentian 9, Pulau Redang Pulau Tioman Semporna Archipelago Sipadan Songs of the Sea spas, see also hot springs Kuala Lumpur 58, 60 Melaka City 216 Pulau Langkawi 187, Singapore 512 spelunking, see caving squirrels 245, 328 Sri Mahamariamman Temple 51 Sri Mariamman Temple (George Town) Sri Mariamman Temple (Singapore) 484, 2-3 Sri Menanti 112 Sri Poyatha Venayagar Moorthi Temple 214 Sri Raja Mariamman Devasthanam 229 Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple 485 St Paul s Church 212 St Peter s Church 215 Stadthuys 209 State Art Gallery 202 state parks, see parks & reserves Stepping Stone Cave 282 Suffolk House 159 Sultan Abdul Samad Building 52 Sultan Abdullah Mosque 252 Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque 229 Sultan Mosque 487 Sultanate Palace 212 Sulug, Pulau 321 Sumatran rhinoceros 239, Sungai Kinabatangan sup torpedo 38 surfing 34 Cherating 257 Juara 249 Teluk Chempedak 257 sustainable travel accommodation 300, 335, 351, 356, 436 food 314 sights tour operators 295, 311 swans 419 INDEX S

13 630 INDEX S -W sweets 395, 582 swimming holes Endau-Rompin National Park 240 Pulau Tioman 246 Taman Negara 262 Sze Ya Temple 52, 16 T Tabin Wildlife Reserve Taiping 142-6, 143, 144 Talang-Satang National Park Talang-Talang, Pulau 416 Taman Alam Kuala Selangor Nature Park 108 Taman Mini Malaysia/ Asean 225 Taman Negara 12, 260-5, 261, 12 Taman Negara Perlis Tanah Rata , 131 Tanjung Bidara 226 Tanjung Datu National Park 415 Tanjung Tuan Forest Reserve 113 Taoism tapir 269 Tarawe, John 446 Tasik Chini 252, 588 Tasik Kenyir Tatt Khalsa Diwan Gurdwara 57 Tawau 363-7, 364 Tawau Hills Park 367 taxes 596 taxis, long-distance 604 tea drinking 583 tea plantations Boh Sungei Palas Tea Estate 127, 13 Cameron Bharat Tea Plantation 127 teahouses 530 Tekek Telaga Tujuh 193 telephone services 19 Malaysia 597 Teluk Bahang Teluk Chempedak 257 Teluk Kumbar 182 Teluk Nipah 136-7, 137 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Temburong District Temerloh 270, 271 temples Buddha Tooth Relic Temple 484 Cheng Hoon Teng Temple 214 Hainan Temple 155 Kek Lok Si Temple Kuan Yin Teng 154 Lei Shen Gong Buddhist Temple 252 Liesheng Temple Mariamnan Hindu Temple 252 Sam Poh Temple 127 Sri Mahamariamman Temple 51 Sri Mariamman Temple (George Town) Sri Mariamman Temple (Singapore) 484, 2-3 Sri Poyatha Venayagar Moorthi Temple 214 Sri Raja Mariamman Devasthanam 229 Sri Tehndayuthapany Swamy 129 Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple 485 Sze Ya Temple 52, 16 Tatt Khalsa Diwan Gurdwara 57 Thean Hou Temple 58 Thian Hock Keng Temple Tumpat temple district Wat Siam Nikrodharam 202 Temurun Waterfall 188 Teochew Temple 158 Terengganu , accommodation 272 climate 272 food 272 highlights travel seasons 272 Terrapuri Heritage Village 300 Thaipusam 22, 99, 571, 17 Thean Hou Temple 58 theatre theme parks A Famosa Resort Genting Highlands 101 Taman Mini Malaysia/ Asean 225 Underwater World (Pulau Langkawi) Underwater World (Sentosa Island) 498 Universal Studios 498 Thian Hock Keng Temple tigers 239, 17, 505 time 541, 597 Tinggi, Pulau 238 Tioman, Pulau 14, , 244, 14 accommodation diving & snorkelling drinking food walking Tiong Bahru 488 Titiwangsa 58, 59 toilets 541, 597 tourist information, see also individual destinations Malaysia Singapore 541 tours 604 adventure 60 Cameron Highlands 129 fishing 257 food 60 George Town Kuala Lumpur 60 Singapore walking 144, 161, 144, 161 train travel Malaysia Singapore travel to/from Brunei travel to/from Malaysia travel to/from Singapore travel with children 61, 593-4, travel within Malaysia travel within Singapore travellers cheques 596 TreeTops Lodge 436 trekking 12, 28, see also walking Cameron Highlands 130 Cape Rachado Forest Reserve 113 Danum Valley Conservation Area 9, 355 Endau-Rompin National Park , 240 Gunung Bengoh Gunung Mulu Summit 442 Gunung Santubong 405 Hidden Valley (Lost World) Kelabit Highlands 12, Kinabalu National Park 325-7, Maliau Basin Conservation Area Penan villages 452 planning Pulau Perhentian 285 Sungai Kinabatangan 350 Taman Negara Tasik Chini 252, 588 Tringgus Bong Tringgus trishaws 225, 546 Tuaran 333 Tumpat temple district Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park (Lake Gardens Park) 54-5 Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park turtles 257-8, 347, 359, 3, 509 Tutong 467 Tutong District TV Malaysia 593 typhoid 607 U Ubin, Pulau 494 Ulu Temburong National Park Underwater World (Pulau Langkawi) Underwater World (Sentosa Island) 498 Unesco World Heritage Site (Penang) 156 United Malays National Organisation (UMNO) Universal Studios 498 Urban Village 55 V vacations Malaysia 596 Singpore 540-1

14 631 vaccinations 606 vegetarian & vegan travellers 39 Villa Sentosa 215 visas 19, see also passports Malaysia 598 Singapore 541 volunteering 411, 416, 598 W walking, see also trekking Bako National Park 402 Kinabalu National Park Pulau Perhentian 285 Pulau Tioman Southern Ridges Taman Negara Teluk Chempedak 257 walking tours George Town 161, 161 Singapore 501 Taiping 144, 144 Wat Siam Nikrodharam 202 water, drinking 607 waterfalls Asah Waterfall 246 Chiling Waterfall 101 Durian Perangin 188 Endau-Rompin National Park 240 Maliau Basin Conservation Area Sekayu Falls 302 Tasik Chini 252, 588 Temurun Waterfall 188 wayang kulit (shadowpuppet performances) 575 weather 18, 22-3, 594, see also individual regions Brunei 454 Malaysia 594 Singapore 473 weaving 577 Weber, Birgit 287 websites, see internet resources weights Malaysia 593 Western Sarawak white-water rafting 34, 32 wildlife, see individual species, wildlife sanctuaries & reserves, zoos wildlife sanctuaries & reserves Borneo Sun Bear Conservation Centre Butterfly Park 55 Cherating Turtle Sanctuary 258 Deer Park 55 KL Bird Park 53 Kuala Gandah Elephant Conservation Centre Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary Matang Wildlife Centre Penarik Firefly Sanctuary 300 Sepilok Orang-Utan Rehabilitation Centre (SORC) 10, 343-4, 10, 504 Tabin Wildlife Reserve Taman Alam Kuala Selangor Nature Park 108 wildlife watching 29, 401-2, 407-8, see also birdwatching Wind Cave Nature Reserve women travellers Malaysia 599 Singapore 541 women s health 610 women s rights 567 woodcarving 577 work 599 WWII 556 WWII Kranji War Memorial 495 Y yachting 34 Yap Kongsi 158 yoga George Town 159 Kuala Lumpur 58 Singapore 513 Z Zoo Negara (National Zoo) 100 zoos, see also wildlife sanctuaries & reserves Deerland 271 Melaka Zoo 225 Singapore Zoo 17, 493, 17 Zoo Negara (National Zoo) 100 Zoo Taiping & Night Safari 142 INDEX W-Z