TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER LONELY PLANET

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1 All you ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER LONELY PLANET PAGE 1 PLAN YOUR TRIP YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip 17 Top Experiences... 4 Welcome to KL, Melaka & Penang Need to Know What s New If You Like Month by Month Itineraries Shopping Travel with Children Regions at a Glance TOP EXPERIENCES 14 Need to Know Currency Language» Malaysian ringgit (RM)» Bahasa Malaysia and English COUNTRY CO OUNTRY OUN TRY RY & CITY CITY Y The original Comprehensive Adventurous Petronas Towers It s impossible to resist the magnetic allure of the Petronas Towers (p40): the 452m-high struc ture is beautiful to look at, as well as being the embodiment of Malaysia s transformation into a fully developed nation. Designed by architect Cesar Pelli, this glistening, steel-wrapped structure is the focal point of the Kuala Lumpur City Centre (KLCC), a 40-hectare development that also includes an imaginatively designed tropical park, a fun aquarium, an excellent kids museum, a Your Daily world-class concert hall and one of KL s best shopping malls. Petronas Twin Towers 1 When to Go? SHO SHOESTRING Bi trip Big Multicountry Maximise budget ENCOUNTER ENC COUNT CO UNT TER TER Pocket-sized Easy-to-use Highlights PHRASEBOOK Budget Budget less than RM100» Dorm bed: RM12 35» Hawker-stall meal: R10 Georgetown GO year-round» Plan sightseeing around walking tours Batu Caves (11km) Midrange Kampung Baru RM Kuala Lumpur GO year-round regions at a glance Tropical climate, rain year-round Tropical climate, wet & dry seasons Little India Menara KL Merdeka Square (Dataran Merdeka) Kuala Lumpur High Season (Dec Feb) Shoulder (Jul Nov) Low Season (Mar Jun)» July to August, vye with visitors escaping the heat of the Gulf States as Malaysia enjoys what it calls Arab Season. The end of Ramadan, usually in September, also sees increased travel activity in the region.» The west coast monsoon season is over during this time, when visitor numbers are at their lowest. Top End more than RM400» Double room in fivestar hotel: RM » Three-course meal plus wine in top-end restaurant plus bottle of wine: RM200» Half-day Malay cooking course: RM230 Chinatown Brickfields Bangsar Village II Super Shopping Shopaholics will be thrilled by KL s multiplicity of malls. There s also classic Southeast Asian fresh-produce day markets and several atmospheric night markets, the most famous of which is the one along Chinatown s Jln Petaling. Also don t miss the Central Market, an Art Deco souvenir treasure house. T» Two-course meal in midrange restaurant: RM40 60» Ticket for theatre show: RM40» End-of-year school holidays followed by Chinese New Year push up prices and mean advance booking of transport and hotel rooms is important. Lake Gardens Shopping 33 Food 333 Art Galleries 333 Looking for other travel resources?» Double room in midrange hotel: RM Melaka GO year-round 29 Malaysia s capital of Kuala Lumpur (or KL as it s commonly called) is where you ll most likely arrive and spend the bulk of your time. Surrounding it is the state of Selangor, a prosperous industrial powerhouse with an excellent range of easily accessible tourist attractions including the urban planning showcase of Putrajaya, the federal government s administrative hub. Two hours drive south is the historic city and state of Melaka; its glory days as a leading Southeast Asian entrepôt may be long over, but this charming low-rise community continues to draw the tourist crowds. The island of Penang, 350km north of KL, may be Malaysia s smallest state but it packs a considerable multicultural punch with its fantastic food scene, heritage buildings of Georgetown and cool hill station. Get the right guides for your trip Fantastic Food Allow your stomach to lead the way around KL. Tuck in with locals at the fantastic hawker stalls along Jln Alor, Imbi Market or Madras Lane. Sample Indian food in BrickÀelds and Little India and a brilliant array of international options in Bangsar and along the city s party strip, Changat Bukit Bintang. Mid Valley Megamall (1.5km) Contemporary Art Access Malaysia s vibrant contemporary art scene at the National Art Gallery or at exhibitions held in commercial galleries such as the Annexe Gallery and Valentine Willie Fine Art. p34 09-regions-kmp2.indd 29 PAGE /03/ :02:13 AM UNDERSTAND GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP KL, MELAKA & PENANG can make sense of what you see KL, Melaka & Penang Today History Malaysian Cuisine Culture Environment & Wildlife Learn about the big picture, so you population per sq km KUALA LUMPUR of the Srivijaya Empire, based in southern Sum ire controlled the entire Malacca Straits, Jav and became fabulously rich from trade with the protection of the Srivijayans, a signiàcant M up in the Bujang Valley area in the far north 2nd century AD Langkasuka, one of the Àrst HinduMalay kingdoms, is established on the peninsula around the area now known as Kedah. It lasted in one form or another until the 15th century. MALAYSIA UK 120 people KL, Melaka & Penang Today One Malaysia? The t lerant mingling of Malay, Chinese and Indian cultures in Ku um ur, Melaka and Penang are a large part of what makes these h toric cities so appealing. Here, the stories of Mala sia s diverse ethn grou s an co onia empires are intertwined south In ian coo s ser LONELYPLANET.COM For travel information, advice, tips & digital chapters APPS Location-based guides for the street lonelyplanet.com/mobile EBOOKS Guidebooks for your reader lonelyplanet.com/ebooks MAGAZINE For travel stories, inspiration & ideas lonelyplanet.com/magazine Lonely Planet in numbers 70 languages spoken by our writers 12 seconds pass between posts on our Thorn Tree travel forum 100,000,000 Lonely Planet guidebooks sold, and still counting 190+ countries covered by a Lonely Planet guide STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council standards. FSC promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world s forests. AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 % , fax twitter.com/ lonelyplanet USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA % , toll free , fax facebook.com/ lonelyplanet UK 186 City Rd, London, EC1V 2NT % , fax lonelyplanet.com/ newsletter

2 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Get the right guides for your trip PAGE 32 ON THE ROAD YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips TOP EXPERIENCES MAP Penang p142 COUNTRY CO OUNTRY OUN TRY RY & CITY CITY Y The original Comprehensive Adventurous SHO SHOESTRING Bi trip Big Multicountry Maximise budget ENCOUNTER ENC COUNT CO UNT TER TER Pocket-sized Easy-to-use Highlights PHRASEBOOK Looking for other travel resources? Kuala _ Lumpur p34 Melaka p113 LONELYPLANET.COM PAGE For travel information, advice, tips & digital chapters APPS Location-based guides for the street lonelyplanet.com/mobile SURVIVAL 225 GUIDE EBOOKS MAGAZINE YOUR AT-A-GLANCE REFERENCE Guidebooks For travel stories, for your reader inspiration &a ideas How to get around, get room, lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine stay safe, say hello Kuala Lumpur, M Penang all have and guesthouse dorm beds (from RM10) as well as with shared or p rooms and a cho air-con. Directory A Z Lonely Planet in numbers Transport Health languages spoken seconds pass242 Language... by our writers between posts Index on our Thorn Tree Map Legend... travel forum 263 Hotels As a rule, budge poky box rooms thin plywood pa and no windows a choice of priva bathrooms and conditioning. In tels, single norm one double bed, means two doub aid ventilation, t cheaper rooms the ceiling, whic acoustics and p earplugs. At midrange con is standard typically have T proper wardrob private bathroo midrange hotel restaurants, bu tres and swimm Directory ,000,000 A Z countries covered Lonely Planet guidebooks sold, and still counting Accommodation Accommodation in Kuala Lumpur, Melaka and Penang ranges from sky-scraping Àve-star hotels to grungy backpacker dives that scrape the bottom of the barrel. The good news is that accommodation can be refreshingly inexpensive. Outside of public holidays (around major festi- by a Lonely Planet guide Promotional rates can bring rooms at many top-end hotels into the midrange category. A 5% government tax applies to all hotel rooms (including at cheaper hotels where it is invariably included in the quoted rate), and almost all top-end hotels levy an additional 10% service charge. Credit cards are widely accepted at midrange and top-end hotels; cash payment STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council standards. FSC promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world s forests. AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria EDITION 8000, faxwritten AND 8111 RESEARCHED BY %03 THIS twitter.com/ lonelyplanet USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA % , toll free , fax facebook.com/ lonelyplanet Simon Richmond, Celeste Brash UK 186 City Rd, London, EC1V 2NT % , fax lonelyplanet.com/ newsletter NEXT PAGE

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4 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book. On the Road KUALA LUMPUR AROUND KUALA LUMPUR North of Kuala Lumpur Klang Valley South of Kuala Lumpur MELAKA MELAKA CITY AROUND MELAKA Ayer Keroh Pulau Besar Alor Gajah Tanjung Bidara PENANG GEORGETOWN THE REST OF THE ISLAND Penang Hill Kek Lok Si Temple Botanical Gardens Pulau Jerejak Snake Temple Batu Maung Kampung Pulau Betong Teluk Kumbar & Gertak Sanggul Balik Pulau Balik Pulau to Teluk Bahang Teluk Bahang & Around Batu Ferringhi Batu Ferringhi to Georgetown SEBERANG PERAI Butterworth Pulau Aman

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7 Itineraries Whether you ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers. 21 Batu Caves (11km) Kampung Baru Little India Menara KL Petronas Towers Lake Gardens Merdeka Square (Dataran Merdeka) Chinatown Golden Triangle Imbi Market Brickfields Bangsar Village II Mid Valley Megamall (1.5km) Four Days Essential KL For a bird s eye overview of the city take your pick between the skybridge and observation deck of the Petronas Towers or the bulbous head of Menara KL atop the jungleclad hill Bukit Nanas. Explore Chinatown, dropping by its markets and Hindu and Taoist temples, and admire the colonial buildings around nearby Merdeka Square (Dataran Merdeka). Spend the evening in the Golden Triangle dig into delicious food along Jln Alor, then sample the nightlife along buzzing Changkat Bukit Bintang. Make the Lake Gardens the focus of day two, not missing KL Bird Park, the Islamic Arts Museum and the National Museum. Sample authentic Indian cuisine in either Brickfields or Little India. On day three, having enjoyed breakfast at Imbi Market, venture out to Batu Caves; exploring the cave temples only takes a couple of hours, leaving time the same day to wander the sleepy streets of Kampung Baru back in KL. Set aside day four for some me time : enjoy some retail therapy in giant shopping malls such as Mid Valley Megamall, or indulge in a luxurious spa treatment at Hamman in Bangsar Village II.

8 22 THAILAND Penang Georgetown PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES É SELAT MELAKA (STRAIT OF MELA KA) INDONESIA É É _ KUALA LUMPUR Melaka SOUTH CHINA SEA Two Weeks The Terrific Trio Starting in Kuala Lumpur, follow the previous itinerary, adding on a day to head out of town to view the modern architecture of Putrajaya or the lush surrounds of the Forest Research Institute of Malaysia (FRIM). Tap into Malaysia s creative scene by spending a day touring KL s major galleries, including the National Art Gallery near Lake Titiwangsa, White Box at Publika, Valentine Willie Fine Art and Wei-Ling Gallery; and see what s playing at the Kuala Lumpur Performing Arts Centre, the magnificent concert hall at the base of the Petronas Towers, or the jazz venue No Black Tie. Use Georgetown as your base for exploring Penang, starting with walking tours of its fascinating colonial district and Chinatown, a Unesco World Heritage protected area. Along the way be sure to visit the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, the fabulously ornate clanhouse Khoo Kongsi and Penang Museum. Having prepped your stomach on afternoon tea in the elegant surrounds of the Eastern & Oriental Hotel or the restored grandeur of Suffolk House, go for broke by night trawling Penang s amazing range of streetside hawker stalls. Lose yourself for half a day at the enormous Kek Lok Si Temple, which has an excellent vegetarian restaurant on the premises. Alternatively, stroll the pathways of the lovely Botanical Gardens and continue on to the base of Penang Hill. Ride the funicular railway to the peak and spend the rest of the afternoon strolling the trails in the cool air. Leave a couple of days to explore the rest of the island, including Penang National Park and the beaches and resorts at Batu Ferringhi. Round off your trip with a few days in Melaka, becoming acquainted with the delights of Peranakan cuisine. Tick off the main historic sights, including the Stadthuys, Porta de Santiago, St Paul s Church, the Sultanate Palace, Villa Sentosa and historic Chinatown, where you ll find the Baba-Nonya Heritage Museum. Escape the crowds at Bukit China graveyard, with sunset views of the city. Time permitting, enjoy a riverboat cruise or an Eco Bike Tour and, if it s Friday or Saturday, don t miss the Jonker s Walk Night Market.

9 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Simon Richmond Coordinating Author, Kuala Lumpur Simon first visited KL, Melaka and Penang in A lot s changed in Malaysia since, but the country remains one of Simon s favourites for its easily accessible blend of cultures, landscapes, adventure and lip-smacking range of cuisines. His favourite experience of this research trip was learning to make the glutinous rice balls onde onde at the culinary retreat Bayan Indah. An award-winning travel writer and photographer, Simon has helmed Lonely Planet s Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei guide for the past three editions, as well as a shelfload of other titles for Lonely Planet and other publishers. Find out more about his work and travels at Read more about Simon at: lonelyplanet.com/members/simonrichmond Celeste Brash Melaka, Penang Celeste first visited Malaysia while studying at Chiang Mai University, Thailand in 1993 and she later moved to Singapore to teach English. The more of Malaysia she s visited over the years, the more she s fallen in love with it. She s sure Malaysian food is the world s best and the country seems to get better and better with every visit. She s contributed to over 20 Lonely Planet guidebooks including Travel with Children and her award-winning writing has appeared in publications from the LA Times to Islands Magazine. To see more of her writing go to Read more about Celeste at: lonelyplanet.com/members/celestebrash Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN nd edition June 2011 ISBN Lonely Planet 2011 Photographs as indicated Printed in Singapore Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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