Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Finland. West Coast p194. The Lakeland p150. Åland Tampere, Pirkanmaa. Helsinki

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1 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Finland Lapland p235 Oulu, Kainuu & Koillismaa p215 West Coast p194 The Lakeland p150 Åland Tampere, Pirkanmaa Archipelago & Häme p114 p132 Turku & the South Coast Helsinki #_ p82 p42 Karelia p173 Mara Vorhees, Catherine Le Nevez, Virginia Maxwell

2 PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD JOAQUIN OSSORIO CASTILLO/SHUTTERSTOCK PEKK/SHUTTERSTOCK Welcome to Finland Finland Map Finland s Top Need to Know What s New If You Like Month by Month Itineraries The Great Outdoors Travel with Children Regions at a Glance TUOMIOKIRKKO P49, HELSINKI HELSINKI...42 TURKU & THE SOUTH COAST Turku Naantali Turku Archipelago...93 Pargas Nagu Korpo Houtskär Iniö Kustavi The South Coast: West of Helsinki Kimito Island & Archipelago National Park...97 Hanko Raseborg Fiskars Lohja The South Coast: East of Helsinki Porvoo Loviisa Kotka Hamina ÅLAND ARCHIPELAGO Fasta Åland Mariehamn Jomala Hammarland Eckerö Geta Saltvik Sund Vårdö Finström Lemland Lumparland Northern & Southern Archipelagos Northern Archipelago Southern Archipelago TAMPERE, PIRKANMAA & HÄME Tampere Pirkanmaa Ruovesi Helvetinjärvi National Park Keuruu Mänttä Häme Iittala Hämeenlinna Lahti THE LAKELAND Savonlinna Punkaharju The Seal Lakes Sulkava Mikkeli New Valamo Jyväskylä Around Jyväskylä Kuopio KARELIA South Karelia Lappeenranta URHO KEKKONEN NATIONAL PARK P263

3 Contents UNDERSTAND Imatra North Karelia Joensuu Ilomantsi Hattuvaara Lake Pielinen Koli National Park Paalasmaa Island Vuonislahti Lieksa Patvinsuo National Park Ruunaa Recreation Area Nurmijärvi District Nurmes WEST COAST Uusikaupunki Rauma Pori Around Pori Kristinestad Närpes Seinäjoki Vaasa Around Vaasa Jakobstad Around Jakobstad Kokkola Kalajoki OULU, KAINUU & KOILLISMAA Oulu Around Oulu Kajaani Sotkamo Kuhmo Hossa Kuusamo & Ruka Juuma Karhunkierros Trek & Oulanka National Park LAPLAND Southern Lapland Kemi Tornio Rovaniemi Around Rovaniemi Kemijärvi Pyhä-Luosto Fell Lapland Ylläs Levi Muonio Hetta Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park Kilpisjärvi Northern Lapland Sodankylä Saariselkä Around Saariselkä Saariselkä Wilderness & Urho Kekkonen National Park Ivalo Nellim Inari Lemmenjoki National Park Inari to Norway Finland Today History The Sámi Finnish Lifestyle & Culture Finnish Design The Arts Food & Drink SURVIVAL GUIDE Directory A-Z Transport Language Index Map Legend SPECIAL FEATURES Sauna Culture The Finnish Lakeland Native Wildlife Snow Sports

4 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 25 Itineraries Rovaniemi SWEDEN Kemi G U L F O F B O T H N I A Oulu RUSSIA Kuopio Savonlinna Saimaa Lappeenranta Porvoo #_ G U L F O F HELSINKI F I N L A N D 2 WEEKS Essential Suomi This highlights tour of Finland covers some of the best places the country has to offer, with cities, castles, lakes, saunas and Santa on the menu. Kick off in capital Helsinki, prowling the buzzing Design District and unwinding in excellent restaurants and bars. Hit Suomenlinna or an island restaurant to get a feel for the archipelago, and day trip to historic Porvoo s enchanting wooden buildings. Next head to Lappeenranta on the shores of Finland s largest lake. Then go by boat in summer it s gorgeous Savonlinna, where the stunning castle hosts an opera festival. From there, head to the heart of the Lakeland, Kuopio, another segment you can do on a lake boat. Try to time your visit to coincide with the convivial smoke sauna. The high latitudes are in evidence once you get to Oulu depending on the season, the sun barely sets or barely rises. It s one of Finland s liveliest towns, with a great summer marketplace. In winter stop in Kemi to see the snow castle and take an icebreaker cruise. Finally head to Rovaniemi, capital of Lapland and a great base for outdoor activities. From there, explore the north or get the sleeper train or fly back to Helsinki.

5 26 Kilpisjärvi NORWAY Kevo Strict # Nature Reserve PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries SWEDEN Lemmenjoki National Park # Hetta Rovaniemi Saariselkä Muonio Tankavaara Levi Sodankylä Pyhä Inari Urho Kekkonen # National Park Oulanka # National Park RUSSIA Ranua Ruka Kuusamo 10 DAYS Lapp Gold Lapland s unique charms deserve plenty of time. This trip can be done in a week, but take two if you can, giving yourself time for some of the numerous activities on offer. Rovaniemi is Lapland s capital and a logical place to start. It s also a good spot to hire a car. Santa Claus is the big crowd-puller here, but the real don t-miss attraction is the Arktikum museum. Further south, you can see some of the region s fauna at Ranua s zoo. Cut eastward to Ruka, a lively winter ski resort and activity base. Here, there s walking to be done in Oulanka National Park, including the Karhunkierros, one of Finland s best treks. You can also canoe or go bear-watching from nearby Kuusamo. From Ruka, head north via Kemijärvi to Sodankylä. Don t miss the wonderful old wooden church. Continue north through ever-more-sparsely populated territory; when you reach Urho Kekkonen National Park you re in one of Europe s great wildernesses. Take some time out for a hike across the fells, or try gold-panning at Tankavaara s Kultamuseo. Saariselkä is the best base to organise all sorts of summer and winter activities. Inari, one of Lapland s most intriguing towns, is the capital of Finland s Sámi, a handicrafts centre and home to the memorable Siida museum, where you ll learn a lot about the Sámi and the wildlife of these northern latitudes. Next it s nearby Lemmenjoki National Park, where treks, river trips, gold-panning and more Sámi culture await. With time, head up to Kevo Strict Nature Reserve for a great three- to four-day trek. Continue the loop towards northwest Finland, perhaps cutting through Norway and ending up at Hetta, another Sámi town and the trailhead for more excellent walking. If you have time, take a detour up the arm of Finland to remote Kilpisjärvi, in the shadow of fearsome Norwegian mountains and the smaller bulk of Saana Fell, a rewarding climb with some memorable views over three nations. Then head to Muonio. In winter you should go husky sledding, but even in summer it s worth meeting the lovable dogs. Finally, return to Rovaniemi, stopping to ski or rent a summer cottage at built-up Levi or peaceful Pyhä.

6 27 Baltic & Bothnian Coasts Contemporary City Hopping Hailuoto Oulu SWEDEN G U L F O F B O T H N I A Kvarken Archipelago Vaasa Kristinestad Jakobstad Pori Tampere Rauma Uusikaupunki Iittala Åland Naantali Turku Turku Fiskars Archipelago #_ HELSINKI Hanko Ekenäs B A LT I C S E A G U L F O F F I N L A N D TALLINN ESTONIA #_ RUSSIA PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries 10 DAYS Contemporary City Hopping Finland s thriving design and music industries mean that its cities, though small, pack plenty of contemporary punch. Take a few days to get to know Helsinki. Check out the Design Museum, then snoop around Punavuori s small studios and shops. See what s on at Kaapelitehdas and Korjaamo cultural centres, and pay Kiasma a visit. Fine-dining restaurants and quirky or just plain weird bars make evenings fly by. Catch a ferry across to Tallinn, Estonia s capital. The traditional architecture of the Old Town meets the post-soviet generation s creative energy in an intriguing mix. Sail back to Helsinki and head to Tampere, a model of post-industrial regeneration. Take in the city s bohemian vibe and stunning lakescapes, and head for a halfday trip down to Iittala to see the home of one of Finland s iconic design brands. Cut southwest down to Turku. The country s stateliest city has plenty going on, whether it s the Ruisrock festival or the latest exhibition in Ars Nova. Head back to Helsinki along the coast. Thirsty for more? Sort out your visa and the city of St Petersburg is just a train ride away. 10 DAYS Baltic & Bothnian Coasts This trip takes you through Swedish- and Finnish-speaking communities and gives the chance to see picture-perfect towns, sparkling blue water and decent beaches. Heading west from Helsinki, stop at the pretty ironworks village of Fiskars, near family-friendly, seaside Ekenäs. Then head on to the noble wooden villas of Hanko. Turku has many drawcards, as does the surrounding Turku Archipelago and picturesque Naantali. Further offshore, Åland offers cycling and maritime history. To the north, Uusikaupunki s museum deserves a prize for ironic humour, while Rauma features charming wooden buildings. Pori hosts a pumping jazz festival. The next coastline is Parallel Sweden : first stop Kristinestad with its Swedishspeaking majority. Vaasa has an excellent museum and kids attractions. West of here, Kvarken Archipelago is an ever-changing landscape of land rising from the seabed. Jakobstad s Old Town rivals Rauma s for beauty. Beyond here, beautiful coastline runs north to vibrant Oulu. Stop off at Hailuoto island for a stay by the beach; it s not often you can have a dip this far north.

7 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 319 Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Hut/Shelter Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Gate Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station S-Bahn/Subway station Taxi T-bane/Tunnelbana station Train station/railway Tram Tube station U-Bahn/Underground station Other Transport Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

8 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Mara Vorhees Turku & the South Coast; Åland Archipelago; West Coast Mara Vorhees writes about food, travel and family fun around the world. Her work has been published by BBC Travel, Boston Globe, Delta Sky, Vancouver Sun and more. For Lonely Planet, she regularly writes about destinations in Central America and Eastern Europe, as well as New England, where she lives. She often travels with her twin boys in tow, earning her an expertise in family travel. Follow their adventures and misadventures at Catherine Le Nevez Helsinki; Karelia; Oulu, Kainuu & Koillismaa; Lapland Catherine s wanderlust kicked in when she roadtripped across Europe from her Parisian base aged four, and she s been hitting the road at every opportunity since, travelling to around 60 countries and completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and postgraduate qualifications in Editing and Publishing along the way. Over the past dozen-plus years she s written scores of Lonely Planet guides and articles covering Paris, France, Europe and far beyond. Her work has also appeared in numerous online and print publications. Topping Catherine s list of travel tips is to travel without any expectations. Catherine also wrote the Plan and Understand features, as well as the Survival Guide content. Virginia Maxwell Tampere, Pirkanmaa & Häme; The Lakeland Although based in Australia, Virginia spends at least half of her year updating Lonely Planet destination coverage in Europe and the Middle East. Though the Mediterranean is her major area of interest she has covered Spain, Italy, Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, Egypt and Morocco for Lonely Planet guidebooks Virginia has also written Lonely Planet guides to Armenia, Iran, Australia and the previous edition of Finland. Follow on Instagram and Twitter. Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN th edition May 2018 ISBN Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs as indicated Printed in China Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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