Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Sweden. Lappland & the Far North p268. Jämtland & the Bothnian Coast p244. Uppsala & Central Sweden p97

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1 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Sweden Lappland & the Far North p268 Jämtland & the Bothnian Coast p244 Gothenburg & the Southwest p131 Uppsala & Central Sweden p97 #_ Stockholm & Around p40 The Southeast & Gotland p206 Malmö & the South p168 Benedict Walker, Craig McLachlan, Becky Ohlsen

2 PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD RAMONESPELT/GETTY IMAGES ALLANW/SHUTTERSTOCK Welcome to Sweden Sweden Map Sweden s Top Need to Know If You Like Month by Month Itineraries Outdoor Activities Travel with Children Regions at a Glance KUNGLIGA SLOTTET P43, STOCKHOLM DALA HORSE P127 STOCKHOLM & AROUND...40 Around Stockholm Drottningholm Stockholm Archipelago...90 Kapellskär Sigtuna Mariefred Sandhamn UPPSALA & CENTRAL SWEDEN Uppsala Nyköping Eskilstuna Västerås Sala Nora Örebro Karlstad Sunne Torsby Falun Lake Siljan Orsa Sälen Idre GOTHENBURG & THE SOUTHWEST Gothenburg Around Gothenburg Southern Archipelago Brännö Other Islands Marstrand Bohuslän Bohuslän Coast Strömstad Dalsland Håverud Västergötland Vänersborg Trollhättan Lidköping Halland Halmstad Varberg MALMÖ & THE SOUTH Skåne Malmö Lund Helsingborg Kulla Peninsula Falsterbo Peninsula Trelleborg Ystad Simrishamn Åhus Kristianstad Blekinge Karlskrona Karlshamn THE SOUTHEAST & GOTLAND Östergötland Norrköping Linköping Vadstena Småland Jönköping-Huskvarna Gränna Eksjö Växjö Kalmar Glasriket Oskarshamn

3 Contents UNDERSTAND Västervik Vimmerby Öland Borgholm Northern Öland Southern Öland Gotland Visby Northern Gotland Fårö Southern Gotland JÄMTLAND & THE BOTHNIAN COAST Jämtland Östersund Åre Funäsdalen The Bothnian Coast Gävle Hudiksvall Sundsvall Höga Kusten Härnösand Umeå Skellefteå Luleå Haparanda LAPPLAND & THE FAR NORTH Strömsund Vilhelmina Storuman Hemavan & Tärnaby Sorsele Ammarnäs Arvidsjaur Arjeplog Jokkmokk Gällivare Kiruna Nikkaluokta & Kebnekaise Jukkasjärvi Abisko Riksgränsen Kungsleden Karesuando Pajala Laponia World Heritage Area Sweden Today History Food & Drink People & Culture Environment Design & Architecture The Sami SURVIVAL GUIDE Directory A Z Transport Language Index Map Legend JO CREBBIN/SHUTTERSTOCK SPECIAL FEATURES Outdoor Activities Food & Drink SKANSEN P50, STOCKHOLM Design & Architecture The Sami

4 24 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Itineraries Gamla Uppsala Uppsala Sigtuna Stockholm Archipelago M ä l a r e n Millesgården # STOCKHOLM#_ Skogskyrkogården / E20 1 WEEK Stockholm & Its Surrounds This itinerary brings you the highlights of the area around the capital, including ruins from early Swedish history and a few suburban delights. Start in Stockholm, where mandatory attractions include the Kungliga Slottet (Royal Palace), Gamla Stan (the lovely Old Town) and Skansen (a family-friendly open-air museum that s basically Sweden in miniature). Kick off with a short boat tour of the city s waterways. You can do all of those in a couple of days, which leaves an evening for enjoying some nightlife in Södermalm try the clubs and bars in the SoFo district. On day three, visit a museum or two. The next day, check out the cathedral and palace at Uppsala and delve into early Swedish history via the burial mounds and museum at Gamla Uppsala. On the way back, explore Sigtuna, with its old-fashioned buildings, adorable cafes and atmospheric church ruins. The following day, visit the sculpture museum at Millesgården, or make a pilgrimage to Greta Garbo s memorial at Unesco-recognised cemetery Skogskyrkogården. Finally, take a leisurely boat ride out into the Stockholm archipelago, hopping off to explore one of the islands or even staying overnight if time allows.

5 25 NORWAY Bohuslän Coast Tjörn Ka Gothenburg V ä n e r n V ä t t e r n Örebro M ä l a r e n STOCKHOLM #_ B a l t i c S e a PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries t t e g a t 2 WEEKS Stockholm & Gothenburg You can see a good stretch of Sweden in the space of two weeks. This itinerary makes its way through the heart of the country, taking in lush landscapes as well as the relics of industry. To get a sense of the things that make the place so quintessentially Swedish, we suggest spending the first week of your trip exploring the sights in and around stylish capital Stockholm. Then, make your way west toward Gothenburg, Sweden s so-called second city, a worthy destination in its own right. Take your time getting there you ll want to stop along the way to visit the lively college town of Örebro, tour its moat-protected castle and wander through the nearby Stadsparken, one of Sweden s most beautiful city parks. Continue heading southwest, between the huge inland lakes Vänern and Vättern, and into Gothenburg. This engaging city is easily worth a few days of exploration: visit its theme park and museums, notably the nostalgiafest that is Mölndals Museum, but don t neglect to do some Michelin-star dining and trend-focused shopping, perhaps in the attractive and well-preserved Haga district, Gothenburg s oldest suburb. Take the whole clan along for the rides at the huge amusement park that is Liseberg, one of Sweden s most visited tourist attractions. Pick up some picnic supplies at Feskekörka, a fish market shaped like a church, or settle in for some locally sourced, gourmet burgers at Restaurang And don t miss the cool, retrofitted art space at Röda Sten, a gritty power-station-turned-gallery that exhibits some of the edgiest artwork around and has a range of evening events to boot. Spend the rest of week two exploring the craggy coastline and rickety fishing villages of the Bohuslän Coast. Check out the Bronze Age rock carvings on the Tanum plain, then have a go at making sense of them with the help of the Vitlycke Museum. Cross the bridge from Stenungsund (on the Swedish mainland) to the island of Tjörn, a favourite of landscape artists and sailors alike. Wander the tiny villages admiring sailboats, have a summer barbecue on the deck of a youth hostel or make a meal of smoked fish from Åstols Rökeri.

6 26 JOHNER IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries ERNST HAAS/GETTY IMAGES Top: Läckö Slott (p162), Lidköping Bottom: Bronze Age rock carvings, Tanum (p152)

7 27 Abisko National Park Jukkasjärvi Karesuando # Kiruna NORWAY STOCKHOLM #_ NORWAY Lake Siljan Jokkmokk Arvidsjaur Luleå Höga Kusten Mora Rättvik Leksand Umeå FINLAND RUSSIA Marstrand Gothenburg Brännö Varberg Lund DENMARK Malmö RUSSIA Öland B A LT I C S E A PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries #_ STOCKHOLM ESTONIA 2 WEEKS Stockholm to Kiruna 3 WEEKS Stockholm to Malmö The journey from Stockholm to the northernmost city in Sweden actually merits the term epic. You ll cross vast stretches that seem to be populated by nothing but reindeer. You ll also see the fertile, forested breadbasket of the country. From Stockholm head toward the lovely Lake Siljan region, home to carved wooden Dala horses, red-painted huts and hobbitlike villages. Spend a day or two hopping between Mora, Rättvik and Leksand. Continue north, tacking east towards the Höga Kusten region for glorious scenery and cliffside hiking. From there, it s an easy journey up to the urban centres of Norrland: Umeå and Luleå. From Luleå, jag inland to Arvidsjaur for a dogsledding or snowmobile tour, and then on to Jokkmokk, whose Sami museum, Ájtte, mustn t be missed. Continue to Kiruna to explore some wild landscapes. Hike in the accessible but untamed Abisko National Park, a short train ride from Kiruna. From Kiruna, zip over to Jukkasjärvi to see the Icehotel and visit a Sami reindeer camp. Completists might opt to visit Karesuando, the northernmost village in Sweden. You can cover a lot of the southern part of Sweden in three weeks, including two of the most dynamic urban centres in Scandinavia Malmö and Gothenburg as well as some gorgeous coastline and fishing villages. Start your journey in Stockholm. The wonderful capital city will hold your attention for as many days as you can devote to it. When it s time to move on, head toward dynamic Gothenburg and its surrounding coastline, whose charms include pretty fishing villages and spectacular, otherworldly light. Make your way along the coast, jagging north to enjoy the eye candy in upscale Marstrand, then edging south to dodge mopeds in beachy Brännö. Stop in at Varberg and see the preserved body of Bocksten Man displayed in its medieval fortress. Continue south to Lund, Sweden s second-oldest town, with a striking cathedral and the great cafe culture that goes along with a large student population. Just south of here is Malmö, a diverse and lively city that sometimes feels more a part of neighbouring Denmark no surprise, really, as Copenhagen is only a bridge away.

8 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 351 Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Hut/Shelter Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Gate Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station S-Bahn/Subway station Taxi T-bane/Tunnelbana station Train station/railway Tram Tube station U-Bahn/Underground station Other Transport Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

9 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Benedict Walker Uppsala & Central Sweden, The Southeast & Gotland, Malmö & the South Ben had a suburban upbringing in Newcastle, Australia, and spent his weekends and long summers by the beach, whenever possible. Although he s drawn magnetically to the kinds of mountains he encountered in the Rockies and the Japan and Swiss Alps, beach life is in his blood. He loves the thrill of unearthing the best of big cities, but he s always most at home in nature. Writing for Lonely Planet is Ben s dream come true to date he has contributed to Lonely Planet s Australia, Canada, Germany, Japan, Switzerland, USA and Vietnam guidebooks. Craig McLachlan Jämtland & the Bothnian Coast, Lappland & the Far North Craig has covered destinations all over the globe for Lonely Planet for two decades. Based in Queenstown, New Zealand, for half the year, he runs an outdoor activities company and a sake brewery, then moonlights overseas for the other half, leading tours and writing for Lonely Planet. Craig has completed a number of adventures in Japan and his books are available on Amazon. Describing himself as a freelance anything, Craig has an MBA from the University of Hawai i and is also a Japanese interpreter, pilot, photographer, hiking guide, tour leader, karate instructor and budding novelist. Check out Becky Ohlsen Stockholm & Around, Gothenburg & the Southwest Becky is a freelance writer, editor and critic based in Portland, Oregon. She writes guidebooks and travel stories about Scandinavia, Portland and elsewhere for Lonely Planet. Becky grew up with a thick book of Swedish fairytales illustrated by John Bauer, so the deep black forests of Norrland hold particular fascination for her. Hiking through them, she s alert for trolls and tomtes (which, to the untrained eye, look just like big rocks). Though raised in the mountains of Colorado, Becky has been exploring Sweden since childhood, while visiting her grandparents and other relatives in Stockholm and parts north. She s thoroughly hooked on pickled herring and saffron ice cream but has nothing good to say about Swedish beer. Becky also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide sections of this book. Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN th edition May 2018 ISBN Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs as indicated Printed in China Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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