Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Behind the Scenes

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1 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 255 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. WRITER THANKS Regis St Louis Countless people helped along the way, and I m grateful to national park guides, lodging hosts, restaurant servers, barkeeps and baristas who shared tips and insight throughout South Florida. Big thanks to Adam Karlin who did such an outstanding job on previous editions. I d also like to thank Cassandra and our daughters, Magdalena and Genevieve, who made the Miami trip all the more worthwhile. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Cover photograph: Lifeguard tower on South Beach, Miami; Alexander Demyanenko/Shutterstock THIS BOOK This 8th edition of Lonely Planet s Miami & the Keys guidebook was researched and written by Regis St Louis. The previous two editions were written by Adam Karlin. This guidebook was produced by the following: Destination Editors Trisha Ping, Lauren Keith Product Editors Jessica Ryan, Catherine Naghten Senior Cartographers Corey Hutchison, Alison Lyall Book Designer Gwen Cotter Assisting Editors Judith Bamber, Imogen Bannister, Pete Cruttenden, Melanie Dankel, Anita Isalska, Rosie Nicholson, Kristin Odijik Cover Researcher Marika Mercer Thanks to Ronan Abayawickrema, William Allen, Tom Heywood, Sandie Kestell, Lauren O Connell, Ellie Simpson, Angela Tinson

2 256 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index 10,000 Islands th Street Diner 240 A A1A 63 accommodations 242-3, see also camping, individual locations activities 22-5, 32-7, see also individual activities & locations Adrienne Arsht Center for the Performing Arts 131 Ah-Tah-Thi-Ki Seminole Indian Museum 150 air travel 250-1, airboats 151 airports Alderson, Doug 226 alligator meat 41, 43 alligators 9, 158, 223, 226, 9, 145 amphibians animal rights 40, 178 animals 224-7, see also individual animals aquariums 71, 170, 177, 178 architecture 20, area codes 17, 247 Argentine culture Art Basel Miami Beach 22, 100 Art Deco Historic District 9, 64-5, , 64 art galleries, see museums & galleries art walks 132 art-deco architecture 9, 64-5, 231-4, , 64 see also Art Deco Historic District arts 20, , ATMs 246 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Avalon Hotel 240, 240 B babysitting 49 Bahia Honda Key 14, 181-3, 14 bathhouses 93 bathrooms 247 beaches 18 Anne s Beach 174 Boardwalk (Miami) 68-9 Crandon Park Beach 91, 30 Fort Zachary Taylor State Park 185, 194, Haulover Beach Park 69 Higgs Beach 190 North Beach (Miami) 12, 56-7, 63, 68-9, 108-9, , 126-7, 131, 70, 12 Smathers Beach 190 Sombrero Beach 178 South Beach (Key West) 190 South Beach (Miami) 58-63, 92-3, 100-8, , 125-6, 130-1, 133-4, 60-1, 66-7 bears 225 beer 128 bicycling 36-7, 252 Florida Keys 171, 175 Miami 94, 99 Big Cypress 147, Big Pine Key Biltmore Hotel 13 birds 224 bird-watching 178, 200, 224 Biscayne National Park Blue Hole 181 boat travel 251, 252 Everglades, the 153, 160, Florida Keys 171, 174-5, Miami 96 Boca Chica Key 183 books 202 environment 225, 230 history 207, 210, 212 botanicas 135 Brazilian culture 219 Brickell Key 75 Britto, Romero 215 budget 17 bus travel 251, 253, 254 business hours 17, 246 butterflies 85, 189 C Calle Ocho 13, 57, 13 camping 33-4 Everglades, the 34, 152, 157, 160-1, 162 Florida Keys 14, 34, 172, 182 Miami 33-4 canoeing 34, 36 Everglades, the 36, 153 Keys, the 36 Miami 34, 93-4 car travel 17, 251, 253-4, see also road trips Cardozo Hotel 237, Carnaval Miami 22, 98 casinos 92, 147 Castro, Fidel 206, 209, 212 Cavalier South Beach 102, 238, 238 cell phones 16, 247 cemeteries 75, 185 chickees 157 children, travel with 45-9, 172 Chokoloskee Islands churches Ancient Spanish Monastery 92 Coral Gables Congregational Church 87 Miami Beach Community Church 63 cinemas 133 classical music 130 climate 16, 22-5, see also individual regions Coconut Grove 57, 86 accommodations 111 drinking & nightlife food shopping 136 sights 83-5 Colombian culture 219 Colony Hotel 238 Conch houses 234 Conch Republic, the 193 conservation 33, 202-3, 211, 224 consulates Coral Castle 156, 21 Coral Gables 13, 57, 88-9, 13 accommodations drinking & nightlife 130 entertainment food shopping 136 sights 85-7 coyotes 225 credit cards 246 Crescent Resort 238, 239 crocodiles 158 cruises 251, 252 Cuba Cuban cuisine 39 Cuban culture 218 cultural diversity 21, , culture currency 16 customs regulations 243 cycling, see bicycling D dance 131 dangers 246-7

3 257 deer 185 Deering, James 91 Design District 57, 78 accommodations 110 drinking & nightlife entertainment 132 food shopping sights 76-7 disabilities, travelers with 248 distilleries 185, 188 diving 36 Everglades, the 161 Florida Keys 171, 178, 182, 189 dolphins 178, 226 Douglas, Marjory Stoneman 91, 148-9, 153 Downtown Miami 57, 72-3 accommodations 110 activities 94 drinking & nightlife entertainment food shopping 134 sights 69, 71-6 drinking & nightlife 18, see also individual locations drinks 38-44, 128 driver s licenses 253 driving 17, 251, 253-4, see also road trips Dry Tortugas National Park 200 Duval Street 184 E economy 202 electricity 243 embassies emergencies 17 environment environmental issues 202-3, dolphins 178 Everglades conservation 148-9, 211 manatees 227 Española Way Promenade 62 Essex House Hotel 237, 237 etiquette 230 Everglades, the 9, 50, , accommodations 139 activities 147 camping 34, 152, 157, 160-1, 162 climate 139, 158 conservation 148-9, 211 environmental issues 202-3, food 139 highlights hiking 151, 160 history itineraries 142-5, 142 travel seasons 139 Everglades City Everglades National Park , 35, 222 exchange rates 17 F Fantasy Fest 25, 190 fashion 221 festivals & events 22-5 Everglades, the 154 film 221 Florida Keys 179 food 41 Key West 190 Miami films 202, fishing 94 Flagler, Henry Morrison flamenco 217 Floribbean cuisine 44 Florida black bears 225 Florida City Florida Keys 50, , accommodations 163 camping 14, 34, 172, 182 climate 163 food 163 highlights travel seasons 163 Florida panthers 158, Fly s Eye Dome 77 food 18, 38-44, 2, see also individual locations alligator meat 41, 43 conch 43, 42 Cuban sandwiches 40, 42 festivals & events 41 food trucks 124 key lime pie 43, 177 locavore movement 43 seafood 11, 39, 40-1, 43, 11 self-catering 114 forests 228 Fort Jefferson 200 Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Airport 137, fossils 174 Freedom Tower 74 G galleries, see museums & galleries gay travelers 198, geography 148-9, geology giardiasis 245 golf 96 Grassy Key Greater Miami 91-2, 124-5, 130 Greene, Pardon C 206 H Haitian culture 218 hammocks (groves) 32-3 health Hell s Bay 14, 14 Hemingway, Ernest 24, 184, 209 Hemingway Days 24, 190 heron 181, 225 Heyman, Richard 211 Hiaasen, Carl 216 Hibiscus Island 98 hiking 33-4, 151, 160 hip-hop 220 historic buildings & sites Biltmore Hotel 13, 85-6, 13 Black Archives Historic Lyric Theater 74-5 Coral Gables City Hall 87 Eden Roc Renaissance 68 Fontainebleau 68 Fort Jefferson 200 Freedom Tower 74 Hemingway House 184, 169 Little White House 189 Merrick House 87 Miami-Dade County Courthouse 76 Pigeon Key National Historic District 178 Post Office (Miami) 59 Vizcaya Museum & Gardens 83-4 history Bay of Pigs 209 books 207, 210, 212 British settlement 204 crime 210 Cuba, relationship with Great Depression, the 208 Mariel Boatlift race riots 209 Seminole wars slavery Spanish settlement 204 hitchhiking 254 HIV/AIDS 245 holidays 246 Holocaust Memorial 58-9 Homestead hurricanes , I immigration 250 insects 158 insurance 245 car 254 health 244 internet access 245 internet resources 17, 213 Islamorada itineraries Everglades, the 142-5, 142 Key West 166-9, 166 J Japanese culture 219 Jewish culture 63, 218 K kayaking 34, 36, 14 Everglades, the 14, 36, 156, 160, 161 Florida Keys 36, 171-2, 178, 182, 189 Miami 34, 93-4, 94-6 Key Biscayne 15, 57, 90, 15 accommodations 112 food 124 shopping 136 sights 87, Key deer 185 Key Largo key lime pie 43, 177 Key West 50, 163, , 164-5, accommodations 163, activities beaches 190, 194 climate 163 drinking & nightlife 10, INDEX D - K

4 258 INDEX K- N 197-8, 194, 10, 19 entertainment festivals & events 190 food 163, highlights itineraries 166-9, 166 planning information 199 shopping 199 sights tours 190 travel seasons 163 travel to/within Key West International Airport 199 Keys, the, see Florida Keys kiteboarding 37, 96 L language 16 Lapidus, Morris 206, Latin American cuisine 39 Latin American music 217 legal matters 245 lesbian travelers 198, lifeguard stations 237, 236 lighthouses Cape Florida Lighthouse 89, 104, 105 Key West Lighthouse 189 lignum vitae 180 Lincoln Road 104, 104 literature , see also books Little Haiti 57, 82 accommodations 110 drinking & nightlife 129 food 120 shopping 135 sights 77-9 Little Havana 57, 84-5 drinking & nightlife 129 entertainment 132 food shopping sights 79, 82-3 locavore movement 43 Looe Key Lower Keys Lyme disease 245 M Mallory Square 184, 30 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 manatees 226-7, 35 mangroves 180, Marathon markets Florida Keys Miami 119 measures 248 medical services 244 merengue 217 Merrick, George 87 Miami 50, , 54-5, 56, 2-3 accommodations 53, activities 92-6, 97 camping 33-4 climate 53 Coconut Grove 57, 83-5, 111, 122-3, , 136, 86 Coral Gables 13, 57, 85-7, , 123-4, 130, 132-3, 136, 88-9, 13 courses 96-7 Design District 57, 76-7, 110, , 128-9, 132, 134-5, 78 Downtown Miami 57, 69, 71-6, 94, 110, , 127-8, 131-2, 134, 72-3 drinking & nightlife 12, 15, , 12, 15 entertainment festivals & events food 53, Greater Miami 91-2, 124-5, 130 highlights 54-5 information Key Biscayne 15, 57, 87, 89-91, 112, 124, 136, 90, 15 Little Haiti 57, 77-9, 110, 120, 129, 135, 82 Little Havana 57, 79, 82-3, 120-2, 129, 132, 135-6, 84-5 neighborhoods 56-7 North Beach 12, 56-7, 63, 68-9, 93-4, 108-9, , 126-7, 131, 70, 12 shopping 104, sights South Beach 58-63, 92-3, 100-8, , 125-6, 130-1, 133-4, 60-1, 66-7, 52 tours 96-7 travel seasons 53 travel to/from 137 travel within Upper East Side 57, 77-9, 110, 120, 129, 135, 82 walking tours 95, 95 Wynwood 10, 57, 76-7, 104-5, 104, 110, , 128-9, 132, 134-5, 104-5, 78 Miami Dolphins 133 Miami Heat 131 Miami International Airport 137 Miami River 74, 75 Miami-Dade Public Library 76 Miccosukee culture 147 Miccosukee Indian Village 147, 47 microbreweries 128 Middle Keys MiMo on BiBo (Miami Modern on Boscayne Boulevard) 111, 234 mobile phones 16, 247 money 16, 17, 246 motorcycle travel 251, multiculturalism 21, , Munroe, Eva 83 museums & galleries Ah-Tah-Thi-Ki Seminole Indian Museum 150 Art Deco Museum 58 Art Fusion 77 ArtCenter/South Florida 59 Bakehouse Art Complex 76-7 Big Cypress Gallery Britto Central 215 Cisneros Fontanal Arts Foundation 76 Coral Gables Museum 87 Crane Point Museum De La Cruz Collection 77, 10 Florida Keys Eco- Discovery Center 184 Florida Keys History of Diving Museum 174 Fort East Martello Museum & Gardens 189 Gold Coast Railroad Museum 92 Jewish Museum of Florida-FIU 59 Little Haiti Cultural Center 77-8 Locust Projects 77 Lowe Art Museum 86-7 Margulies Collection at the Warehouse 76 Marjory Stoneman Douglas Biscayne Nature Center 91 MDC Museum of Art & Design 75 Mel Fisher Maritime Museum 185 Miami Center for Architecture & Design 75 Miami Children s Museum 75 Miccosukee Indian Village 147, 47 Museum of Art & History at the Custom House 184 Museum of Contemporary Art North Miami 92 Museum of the Everglades 152 PanAmerican Art Projects 79 Patricia & Phillip Frost Museum of Science 71 Pérez Art Museum Miami 69 Rain Barrel Sculpture Gallery 174 Rubell Family Art Collection (Allapattah) 91-2 Smallwood Store South Pointe Park 62 Studios of Key West 185 The Bass 59 Vizcaya Museum & Gardens 83-4 Wolfsonian-FIU 58 World Erotic Art Museum 59, 62 music 19, 130, 217, 220, 2 N national & state parks & reserves 229, see also parks & gardens Anhinga Trail 159, 19 Bahia Honda State Park 181 Barnacle Historic State Park 85 Big Cypress National Preserve 150 Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park 89, 104

5 259 Biscayne National Park Curry Hammock State Park 176 Dry Tortugas National Park 200 Everglades National Park , 35, 222 Fort Zachary Taylor State Park 185, 194, Great White Heron National Wildlife Refuge 181 Historic Virginia Key Park 89, 91 Indian Key Historic State Park 174 John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park Kirby Storter Roadside Park 150 Lignumvitae Key Botanical State Park 174 Oleta River State Park 68 Pigeon Key National Historic District 178 Virginia Key Beach North Point Park 89, 91 Windley Key Fossil Reef Geological State Site 174 Native American culture 147, newspapers 248 Nicaraguan culture 219 nightlife 12, 15, 18, see also individual locations No Name Key 181, 194, 194 North Beach 12, 56-7, 70, 12 accommodations activities 93-4 drinking & nightlife entertainment 131 food sights 63, 68-9 O Ocean Drive 65, 8-9 Ochopee 147, Ochopee Post Office 151, 145 Old Florida 21 opening hours 246 orchids 228 Overseas Highway 11, 166-9, 5, 11 P paddleboarding Florida Keys 182, 189 Miami 93-4, 94-6 painting Palm Island 98 panthers 158, parks & gardens, see also national & state parks & reserves Arch Creek Park 92 Bayfront Park 71 Crandon Park 91 Cuban Memorial Park 82-3 Fairchild Tropical Garden 85 Fort East Martello Museum & Gardens 189 Fruit & Spice Park 156 Harry Harris Park 171 Kampong 84 Matheson Hammock Park 87 Máximo Gómez Park 79, 82 Miami Beach Botanical Garden 63 Morningside Park 78-9 Nancy Forrester s Secret Garden 184, 194 Peacock Park 84 Pinecrest Gardens 92 Royal Palm Visitor Center 160 Shark Valley 146 Skunk Ape Research Headquarters 151 SoundScape Park 58 South Pointe Park 62 Vizcaya Museum & Gardens 83-4 passports 250 performing arts planning, see also individual regions budgeting 17 calendar of events 22-5 children, travel with 45-9, 172 internet resources 17 itineraries Miami & the Keys regions 50 Miami basics Miami neighborhoods 56-7 travel seasons 16, 22-5 plants population 203 postal services 246 Post Office (Miami) 237 Primrose Hills 98 public art public holidays 246 public transportation 254 Q quirky attractions 20-1 R rabies 245 recreational vehicles (RVs) Regalado, Tomás 212 reggae 220 religion 203 reptiles ride sharing 254 road trips Everglades, the 142-5, 142 Key West 166-9, 166 Romer, Gleason 207 rooftop bars 130 Room Mate Waldorf Towers 238, S safety sailing 37 salsa 217 sea turtles 178, 226 seafood 11, 39, 40-1, 43, 11 self-catering 114 Seminole culture 150 Seminoles shopping 20, see also individual locations skating 92-3 smoking 248 snakes 158 snorkeling 36 Everglades, the 161 Florida Keys 171, 178, 181, 200 South Beach 60-1, 66-7, 52 accommodations activities 92-3 drinking & nightlife entertainment food shopping sights Southernmost Point 189 Southern-style cuisine Spanish culture 219 spas 93, 94 Star Island 98 Stiltsville 93 stone crab claws 40 Sugarloaf Key 183 surfing 93 swamp buggies 151 swamps 227 swimming Florida Keys 171 Miami 94, 106, 104 synagogues 63 T Tamiami Trail 146-7, tango 217 Tavernier taxes 246 taxis 254 telephone services 16, 247 television 220-1, 248 Tequesta people 205 Tides 65 time 16, 247 tipping 246 toilets 247 tourist information tours Everglades, the 151-2, 153, Florida Keys Miami 96-7 train travel 251, 254 transportation travel seasons, see also individual regions travel to/from Miami & the Keys travel within Miami & the Keys turtles 178, 226 Tuttle, Julia 206 TV 220-1, 248 U Upper East Side 57, 82 accommodations 110 drinking & nightlife 129 food 120 shopping 135 sights 77-9 Upper Keys V vacations 246 vegetarian travelers 43, 119 Venetian Pool 94, 104, 105 visas 16, 248 INDEX N-V

6 260 INDEX V-Z volunteering 249 W wakeboarding 37 walking tours art walks 132 Miami 95, 95 weather 16, 22-5, see also individual regions weights 248 wetlands 227 wildlife 20, 178, wildlife parks & reserves 20, see also zoos Big Cypress National Preserve 150 Everglades Outpost 156 Fakahatchee Strand Preserve 147 Great White Heron National Wildlife Refuge 181 John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park Key West Butterfly & Nature Conservatory 189 Laura Quinn Wild Bird Sanctuary 171 Looe Key National Marine Sanctuary 181 National Key Deer Refuge Headquarters 181 Skunk Ape Research Headquarters 151 Turtle Hospital 178 windsurfing 96 wineries 156 Winter Haven Hotel 240 Winter Music Conference 22 Wolfsonian-FIU 238 women travelers 249 work 249 Wynwood 10, 57, 104, 78, accommodations 110 drinking & nightlife entertainment 132 food shopping sights 76-7 Wynwood Walls 80-1, 80 Y yoga Florida Keys 182 Key West 189 Miami 93, 94, 96 Z zoos, see also aquariums, wildlife parks & reserves Jungle Island 75-6 Monkey Jungle 92 Sheriff s Animal Farm 183 Zoo Miami 91, 47 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000

7 261 NOTES

8 MARKO MAMULA LONELY PLANET IN THE WILD Send your Lonely Planet in the Wild photos to We share the best on our Facebook page every week!

9 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 263 Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkeling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Gate Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport BART station Border crossing Boston T station Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro/Muni station Monorail Parking Petrol station Subway/SkyTrain station Taxi Train station/railway Tram Underground station Other Transport Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

10 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITER Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Regis St Louis Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel and he developed an early fascination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents. His travels have taken him from the mountains of Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, and to many grand urban landscapes. When not on the road, he lives in New Orleans. Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN th edition Jan 2018 ISBN Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs as indicated Printed in China Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

11 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - Do the right thing with our content.

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