Central Asia. Stephen Lioy Anna Kaminski, Bradley Mayhew, Jenny Walker. Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Kazakhstan p288.

Transcription

1 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Central sia Kazakhstan p288 Turkmenistan p375 Uzbekistan p197 Tajikistan p141 Kyrgyzstan p54 Stephen Lioy nna Kaminski, Bradley ayhew, enny Walker

2 PLN YOUR TRIP Welcome to Central sia Central sia ap Central sia s Top Need to Know First Time Central sia If You Like onth by onth Itineraries Visas & Permits Border Crossings ctivities Community-Based Tourism Countries at a Glance ON THE ROD KYRGYZSTN...54 Bishkek Chuy Oblast la-rcha Canyon...73 Chunkurchak Valley Tokmok Suusamyr Valley Northern Kyrgyzstan: Talas Oblast Northern Kyrgyzstan: Issyk-Köl Oblast Karakol k-suu Region...92 Northern Kyrgyzstan: Naryn Oblast Kochkor Son-Köl Naryn Tash Rabat Southern Kyrgyzstan: alal-bad Oblast alal-bad rslanbob Kazarman Southern Kyrgyzstan: Osh Oblast Osh lay Valley Understand Kyrgyzstan Survival Guide EFESENKO/SHUTTERSTOCK LEXREYNOLDS/SHUTTERSTOCK NTY (STEED DUPLINGS) P462 EHETO/SHUTTERSTOCK UZBEK WON IN TRDITIONL DRESS KLT INOR INRET, P264, KHIV, UZBEKISTN

3 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 497 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBCK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. lthough we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR REDERS any thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: dil Khan, lan Taylor, lfonso orales, yal Weiner- Kaplow, Barney Smith, Benjamin Bullock, Bertold Kemptner, Cale Lawlor, Calum ackellar, Carol Hahn, Carolyn Willadsen, Charles dams & ane Hennessy, Christine acobson, Elin onstad, Emily Kydd, Eveline Verbist, Fabrizio Soggetto, Ferdinand Fellinger, Ike Uri, Isaac ak, ane cnab, oel eadows, udit Hegedus & David Szente, ulie Clarkson, ustyna Ferstl, Lauren Wolfe, Lucy Buckland, aarten van Gerwen, Perry van Dijck & nouk Bertram, arco Svoboda, ary Rose Burns & Lowell Woodin, ary Rose-iller, aurits Stuyt, izio atteucci, omo Nedderwedder, Nathan effers, Nicholas Saraiba, Nick Freeland, Olivier Genkin, Peter Kmet, Pravit Chintawongvanich, Ralph Luken, Raphael Favier, Rasmus berg & Sarah Benke, Renata ozic, Robin Roth, Roel Peters, Roelof Kotvis, Ron Perrier, Rouven Strauss, Ruben ooijman, Stuart Haggett, Suzanne acob & David Lloyd, Sylvia Kupers, Tacita Vero, Will Goddard WRITERS THNKS Stephen Lioy I owe many massive debts of gratitude on this one. To those I continue to explore KG with Солнишка, ason, Kent, maybe even onny Duncan. To all the people I ve travelled with over many years here, not least akiko. To igul, though she s ever thankless! To all the BGI and DO staff that put up with constant demands for more, especially Gulmira and izhan, Rakhat and man, Nargiza/Nasiba/ tabek/eerim/uslima, Gulira and sel, and Kyle the cracker of the whip. nna Kaminski I d like to thank egan for entrusting me with Kazakhstan, ohn, Bradley and ark for the advice and support, Saule and Steven for the info and the company in lmaty/nuclear wasteland, David for the info, Leonie, ohn and Dinara in Turkestan, Svetlana in ksu-zhabagly NP, Pavel for expert guiding around lmaty, Ramil, Roma and Yura my angistau fixer and drivers, Serik in ral, and all the provodniks who made ventilation in platzkart possible.

4 498 BEHIND THE SCENES Bradley ayhew Thanks to Rafael and Oybek at Topchan, Pavel at rt Hostel, Rovshan at Gulnara s, urod and Sevara at dvantour, David at Stantours, Sherzod Norbekov, ariko Shishido in Samarkand, Odil and Zafar at ahongir B&B, ama at the melia, ila hmedova in Bukhara and thanks to co-writers nna, enny, Stephen and the Turkmenistan writer for their input. enny Walker Tajikistan, the so-called roof of the world, puts no such lid on the hospitality shown to visitors. general thanks, then, to all who helped contribute to the information in this country update. Specific thanks to Dylan Harris of Lupine Travel for facilitating transport, to captain lishour freddun for his insightful guiding and to romeo for the safe delivery along the legendary Pamir Hwy. Biggest thanks to beloved general Sam (Owen), husband, co-researcher and fellow traveller. Turkmenistan Writer I cannot express enough my huge thanks for those that helped with this update you know who you are! CKNOWLEDGEENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel C, Finlayson BL & cahon T (2007) Updated World ap of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, Cover photograph: Tilla-Kari edressa, Samarkand, Uzbekistan, efesenko/shutterstock THIS BOOK This 7th edition of Lonely Planet s Central sia guidebook was researched and written by Stephen Lioy, nna Kaminski, Bradley ayhew, enny Walker, and a writer who has chosen to remain anonymous. The previous edition was also written by Bradley, along with ark Elliott, Tom asters and ohn Noble, and the 5th edition by Bradley, ohn, Greg Bloom, Paul Clammer and ichael Kohn. This guidebook was produced by the following: Destination Editor egan Eaves Product Editor manda Williamson Senior Cartographers David Kemp, Valentina Kremenchutskaya Book Designer Katherine arsh Senior Product Editor Kate Chapman ssisting Editors Katie Connolly, Pete Cruttenden, Samantha Forge, Gabby Innes, Kate Kiely, Kellie Langdon, odie artire, Charlotte Orr, onique Perrin Cartographers ark Griffiths, ames Leversha Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Kate ames, Luca & ijan Lässer, nne ason, Lyahna Spencer, Kira Tverskaya

5 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Kazakhstan % 7 / POP 17.8 ILLION Includes lmaty Central Tian Shan Turkestan ral stana ltay ountains Semey Understand Kazakhstan Survival Guide Best Places to Eat Olivia (p318) Line Brew (p300) Tandoor (p299) y Cafe (p300) Izumi Tai (p342) Gosti (p299) Best Places to Stay Rixos Khadisha Shymkent (p317) Wild Nature (p321) Orbita Boutique Hotel (p317) Rixos lmaty (p298) Zhanara s Homestay (p311) Hostel stana (p339) Why Go? The world s ninth-biggest country is the most economically advanced of the stans, thanks to its abundant reserves of oil and most other valuable minerals. This means generally better standards of accommodation, restaurants and transport than elsewhere in Central sia. The biggest city, lmaty, is almost reminiscent of Europe with its leafy avenues, chic LZhiR useum-emorial Complex, glossy shopping centres and hedonistic nightlife. The capital stana, on the windswept northern steppe, has been transformed into a 21st-century showpiece with a profusion of bold futuristic architecture. But it s beyond the cities that you ll find the greatest travel adventures, whether hiking in the high mountains and green valleys of the Tian Shan, searching for wildlife on the lake-dotted steppe, enjoying homespun hospitality in village guesthouses, or jolting across the western deserts to remote underground mosques. When to Go lmaty C/ F Temp 40/104 30/86 20/68 10/50 0/32-10/14 F pr un Naturalists heaven as the steppe and hills blossom and migrating birds flock in. ay Sep The weather is perfect; from uly it s hiking season. S O Rainfall inches/mm 5/125 N D 4/100 3/75 2/50 1/25 Nov pr It s cold, but skiers enjoy Central sia s best facilities at Chimbulak. 0

6 289 Visas & Permits Citizens of 45 countries, including EU states, ustralia, Canada, Israel, apan, New Zealand, Norway, South Korea, Switzerland, the US and some other countries can travel to Kazakhstan without a visa for up to 30 days; as always in this region it is best to check that this arrangement continues. For most other visas you must obtain a letter of invitation (LOI) before applying, available through most travel agencies in Kazakhstan and Central sia travel specialists in other countries. Registration is required if you are staying in Kazakhstan more than five days only if you enter by land or sea and your entry form is stamped once rather than twice. If it s stamped twice, you don t need to register. It is not necessary to register if you enter by air. TOP TIP ake the effort to get beyond Kazakhstan s cities to the beautiful mountain, steppe or desert country, and the hospitality of rural homestays and guesthouses. Side trips to ksu-zhabagyly Nature Reserve or Sayram-Ugam National Park are easy. COSTS Relative Cost Slightly more expensive than Uzbekistan, but cheaper than Turkmenistan. Daily Expenses Hostel dorm (lmaty or stana): T Comfortable hotel double:12,000 20,000T Stolovaya (canteen) meal 1000T, restaurant dinner: T dmission to museums: T Train: lmaty to stana: platskartny (hard-sleeper)/kupeyny (soft-sleeper) 4443/9774T, high speed 13,567T Price Ranges Sleeping (double room with bathroom, including breakfast): $ <8200T, $$ ,800T, $$$ >28,000T Eating (main course): $ <1500T, $$ T, $$$ >3000T Fast Facts rea 2.7 million sq km Capital stana Currency Tenge (T) Languages Kazakh, Russian Exchange Rates ustralia $1 255T Canada C$1 257T China T Euro zone 1 400T apan T NZ NZ$1 237T Russia R10 56T UK UK 1 450T US US$1 324T Kazakhstan Itineraries One week Explore lmaty and take four or five days to explore Kolsai Lakes, the Charyn Canyon and the ltyn-emel National Park. Two weeks Extend the weeklong itinerary with time in southern Kazakhstan: Shymkent, lovely ksu-zhabagyly Nature Reserve, the splendour of Turkestan and the spectacular arid scenery and eerie Soviet boat wrecks on the bank of the ral Sea. One month You can get round the whole country, visiting remote destinations such as the ancient underground mosques of angistauin, the pristine ltay ountains and the glitz of 21st-century architecture in stana, the capital. Resources Edge ( Visit Kazakhstan (www. visitkazakhan.kz) Lonely Planet (www. lonelyplanet.com/kazakhstan)

7 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Kyrgyzstan % 996 / POP 5.76 ILLION Includes Bishkek...58 Karakol Son-Köl Naryn Tash Rabat alal-bad rslanbob Osh Uzgen Understand Kyrgyzstan Survival Guide Best Places to Eat Chaikana Navat (p64) Pur-Pur (p64) Shashlyk No. 1 (p64) Supara Ethno-Complex (p64) Tsarskii Dvor (p119) Why Go? Officially the Kyrgyz Republic (Кыргызская Республика), Kyrgyzstan (Кыргызстан) is a nation defined by its natural beauty. oyously unspoilt mountainscapes, stark craggy ridges and rolling jailoos (summer pastures) are brought to life by seminomadic, yurt-dwelling shepherds. dd to this a well-developed network of homestays and visa-free travel, and it s easy to see why Kyrgyzstan is the gateway of choice for many travellers in Central sia. s can be expected in a country where the vast majority of attractions are rural and high altitude, the timing of your visit is crucial. Summer is ideal with hikes and roads generally accessible. idsummer also sees Kazakh and Russian tourists converge on the beaches of never-freezing Lake Issyk-Köl. From October to ay, much rural accommodation closes down and the yurts that add such character to the lpine vistas are stashed away think twice about a winter visit unless you ve come to ski or snowboard. When to Go Bishkek C/ F Temp 40/104 30/86 20/68 Rainfall inches/mm 5/125 4/100 3/75 Best Places to Stay Southside B&B (p62) Supara Chunkurchak (p75) Kara-Kyz Yurt-Camp (p95) Sary-Oi Yurt-Camp (p122) BUGU Hotel (p60) Bel-Tam Yurt-Camp (p98) 10/50 0/32-10/14 F ay un Flowers bloom and tourist numbers are low; higher mountains may be snowbound. ul Sep Ideal for treks; many festivals; accommodation heavily booked; cities stiflingly hot. S O N D 2/50 1/25 Dec ar Rural accommodation closed; trekking areas inaccessible; great for skiing and winter sports. 0

8 55 Visas & Permits t least 60 nationalities can visit Kyrgyzstan without visas, including citizens of Korea, apan, most major Western countries and former Soviet countries. any visitors who do need a visa can arrange for one online ( COSTS Relative Cost arginally the cheapest state in Central sia. Daily Expenses Hostel dorm (Bishkek) or rural homestay: som idrange hotel: US$30 50 Street snack: 40 60som Self-service cafeteria meal: som Good restaurant meal in Bishkek: som Full day horse riding with guide: som Long-distance share-taxi seat: som Long-distance car with driver per day: 3000som TOP TIP The real draw is exploring the countryside, and our suggestions are just initial pointers. The best way to explore is to simply head out into jailoos and hills and find your own way. But remember that everything is seasonal. Fast Facts rea 199,990 sq km Capital Bishkek Currency som Languages Kyrgyz, Russian Kyrgyzstan Price Ranges Sleeping (double room with bath): $ >1750som, $$ som, $$$ >4800som Eating (main course): $ <250som, $$ som, $$$ >700som Itineraries One Week Head for Lake Issyk-Köl, where Karakol makes an ideal base for exploring the diversity of Kyrgyzstan s culture and heading out for a few days skiing or hiking in the mountains (depending on the season). Two Weeks Visit Issyk-Köl and Son-Köl, then head through the mountains via the Kazarman route or back to Bishkek on public transport. Either way, your destination is the Fergana Valley via Osh, stopping in pretty rslanbob en route or continuing south all the way to the spectacular lay mountains. One onth With more time you can add a two-week prearranged horse trek, mountaineering or trekking expedition to the two-week itinerary, or plan trips to remote corners of the country like Köl-Suu lake or Inilchek glacier. Exchange Rates ustralia $ som Canada C$ som China som Euro som zone apan som NZ NZ$ som Russia R som UK UK som US US$ som For current exchange rates, see Resources CBT ( GoKG ( Tenti ( Trip to Kyrgyzstan ( com/en/map)

9 4 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Central sia With its medieval blue-domed cities, kinetic bazaars and remote yurtstays, Central sia encapsulates the romance of the Silk Road like nowhere else. Warm Welcome Whether you want to explore the architectural gems of Bukhara or take a horse trek across the high Pamirs, everywhere in Central sia you ll be greeted with instinctive local hospitality and offered a shared meal, a helping hand or a place to stay. Beyond Uzbekistan s Silk Road cities, mass tourism has yet to make any inroads in Central sia, lending an authentic sense of discovery to each trip. dd to this the intrinsic fascination of a forgotten region slowly emerging as a geopolitical pivot point and you have one of sia s most absorbing hidden corners. Footprints of History From lexander the Great to Chinggis (Genghis) Khan to Timur (Tamerlane), Central sia s page-turning history litters the land at every turn. From the right angle and with one eye closed, the storied oasis caravan stops of Samarkand and Bukhara, with their exotic skylines of minarets and medressas, really do seem to be lifted directly from the age of arco Polo. Share a round of kebabs with an Uzbek trader or wander an ancient caravanserai and historical romantics will find the past and present begin to blur into one in Central sia. ountains & Yurts East of the desert and steppe settlements rise the snow-capped Pamir and Tian Shan ranges of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, home to traditional herding communities and some truly epic mountain scenery. Here community-based tourism projects can bring you face to face with nomadic Kyrgyz herders, meeting them in their yurts and on their terms. Ride out to remote lakes on horseback, hike from one village homestay to another, or take a 4WD out to remote archaeological sites. The scope for adventure and exploration here is almost limitless. Travel off the ap For decades centuries even much of the world has regarded Central sia as a blank on the map, synonymous with the middle of nowhere, rather than the heartland of sia. For a certain type of wanderer, this is all part of the attraction of a land that has been largely off-limits to travellers for the last 2000 years. Head even a little bit off the beaten track and you ll likely have the place to yourself. The region s little-visited oddities, namely Turkmenistan and most of Kazakhstan, are even further removed from the modern world and offer an addictive interest all of their own.

10 5 CHEKUNOV LEKSNDR/SHUTTERSTOCK Why I love Central sia By Bradley ayhew, Writer Each republic in Central sia has its own attraction for me. In Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan I love the unrivalled mountain scenery and the incredible tradition of hospitality among the local Wakhi and Kyrgyz. In Uzbekistan it s the glorious weight of history and the sense of travelling in the sand-prints of some of history s greatest travellers and invaders. There s also something unique and even slightly weird about Central sia, as if the normal rules of tourist engagement don t quite apply. For me it s a completely addictive place; I freely admit to being a Stan-oholic. For more about our writers, see p512 bove: Uzbek children, Bukhara (p247)

11 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Tajikistan % 992 / POP 8.7 ILLION Includes Dushanbe Fergana Valley Khojand Fan ountains The Pamirs Khorog Understand Tajikistan Survival Guide Best Places to Eat Chaykhona Rokhat (p151) Davlatkhon Homestay (p183) Dilovar s Villa (p163) Delhi Darbar (p178) Darvaz Sangakov Bahrom (p174) Sayokhat (p161) Best Places to Stay arian s Guesthouse (p147) Serena Hotel (p150) Karon Palace (p174) Guesthouse Shahboz (p163) Lal Hotel (p178) Erali Guesthouse (p184) Why Go? The term predominantly mountainous doesn t do justice to a country where over 90% of the land is upland. This fact of nature has given Tajikistan a precious advantage over its neighbours, namely some of the most inspiring, highaltitude landscape in the world. Within an hour of Dushanbe lie multi-hued lakes, peaks that beg to be climbed and high passes that thrill even reluctant travellers. In among this natural splendour are scattered villages and towns that survive cheek-by-jowl through each extreme season. It hasn t been easy for these traditional communities to adapt to the changing world beyond their mountain strongholds, but despite this they are unfailingly welcoming of outsiders and cheerfully excuse cultural faux-pas as part and parcel of their proud democracy. For visitors tolerant of a few travelling hardships (outdoor loos, cold water, potholed roads), the country more than compensates with a rare glimpse into life lived on The Roof of the World. When to Go Dushanbe C/ F Temp 40/104 30/86 20/68 10/50 0/32 F id-un Sep The cities sizzle, but this is the only viable time for High Pamir treks. pr ay ild in the lowlands; heavy showers cause landslides blocking mountain roads. S O Rainfall inches/mm 5/125 N D Nov Feb Temperatures in the Pamirs drop to between -20 C and -45 C (-4 F to -49 F). 4/100 3/75 2/50 1/25 0

12 142 Tajikistan TOP TIP Hire a 4WD. With public transport minimal to non-existent in much of the country, a car and driver transforms a visit to Tajikistan, especially in the Pamirs. Fast Facts rea 143,100 sq km Capital Dushanbe Currency US dollar, Tajik somoni (TS) Languages Tajik, Russian, Uzbek, Sogdian, several Pamiri languages, Kyrgyz Exchange Rates ustralia $1 6.93TS Canada C$1 7.13TS China TS Euro TS zone apan TS NZ NZ$1 6.40TS Russia R TS UK UK TS US US$1 8.82TS For current exchange rates, see Resources sia Plus ( tj/en) Pamirs ( PECT ( com) Tajik Tourism ( tajiktourism.com) Trekking in the Pamirs ( Visas & Permits For most nationalities e-visas (US$50) are available online at These e-visas are valid for 45 days and include the permit for GBO (eastern Tajikistan). COSTS Relative Cost ore expensive than Kyrgyzstan, but cheaper than Uzbekistan (unless you re renting a 4WD). Daily Expenses Floor space in homestay: US$10 Double room with bathroom: US$ Self-catering: US$5 Three meals in homestays: US$15 Overnight guided trek: US$ Seat in shared taxi: US$45 Charter of small 4WD with driver: US$80 Price Ranges Sleeping (double room with bath, including breakfast): $ <US$40, $$ US$40 150, $$$ >US$150 Eating (main course): $ <US$5, $$ US$5 30, $$$ >US$30 Itineraries One week fter two nights in Dushanbe travel north to Khojand. On the outward journey spend two nights at Iskander-Kul and Sarytag to allow a day s trekking in the Fan ountains. Overnight in Khojand and spend the morning enjoying the citadel and bazaar and either return to the capital or travel on to the Uzbekistan or Kyrgyzstan borders. Two weeks llow five days to travel from Dushanbe to Osh along the Pamir Hwy. Break the journey in the friendly towns of Kalai-Kum and Khorog and allow a day to absorb the windswept isolation of urgab. In 10 days, add in the sourthern route between Khorog and urgab, through the timeless Wakhan Valley with its ancient shrines and traditional culture. Three weeks Combine the one- and two-week itineraries (with the relevant multiple entry visa) to make a circuit through Tajikistan either starting in Dushanbe or in Osh. Travelling anticlockwise has a slight edge on the journey in reverse.

13 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Turkmenistan % 993 / POP 5.3 ILLION Includes shgabat ary erv Turkmenabat Karakum Desert Dashoguz Konye-Urgench Turkmenbashi Understand Turkmenistan Survival Guide Best Places to Eat Coffee House (p384) Hotel Ýyldyz Panoramic Restaurant (p384) Șa Kofe (p384) Best Places to Shop ltyn syr arketing Centre (p385) ltyn Göl (p385) Tolkuchka Bazaar (p385) Berkarar (p385) Why Go? By far the most mysterious and unexplored of Central sia s stans, Turkmenistan became famous for the truly bizarre dictatorship of Saparmyrat Niyazov, who ruled as Turkmenbashi ( leader of the Turkmen ) until his death in Niyazov covered this little-known desert republic with grandiose monuments and golden statues of himself. lthough many of these statues have since been dismantled, plenty of visitors still think of Turkmenistan as a sort of totalitarian theme park. But the least-visited of Central sia s countries is far more than this it s an ancient land of great spirituality, tradition and natural beauty. The ancient cities of erv and Konye-Urgench inspire visions of caravans plodding along the ancient Silk Road, while the haunting beauty of the Karakum desert and other quirky natural phenomena are equally mesmerising. The full Turkmen experience is ultimately about mingling with the warm and fascinating people themselves, whose hospitality is the stuff of legend. When to Go shgabat C/ F Temp 40/104 30/86 20/68 10/50 0/32 pr un Bright sunshine and cool temperatures combine to create the best climate for travel. F Sep Nov The fierce summer heat gradually cools and the winter approaches. S O Rainfall inches/mm 5/125 N D 4/100 3/75 2/50 1/25 Dec Wrap up warmly; expect to see snow in the desert and very few other travellers! 0

14 376 Turkmenistan TOP TIPS Spending time in shgabat means you don t have to be with a guide, and is a good way to cut costs, although you do still need to be on an organised trip. The other way to avoid travelling with a guide is to get a transit visa, although they tend to only be valid for three to five days, depending on your route across the country. Fast Facts rea 488,100 sq km Capital shgabat Currency manat () Languages Turkmen, Russian, Uzbek Exchange Rates ustralia $ Canada C$ China Euro zone apan NZ NZ$ Russia R UK US US$ For current exchange rates, see Resources Lonely Planet ( com/turkmenistan) Caravanistan ( caravanistan.com) Gundogar (www. gundogar.org) News & Information ( Visas & Permits Everyone requires a visa for Turkmenistan, and unless you re on a transit visa, you need to be accompanied by a guide throughout your stay. COSTS Relative Cost The most expensive country in Central sia. Daily Expenses Basic hotel room: US$60 idrange hotel room: US$120 Kebab lunch: US$5 Pizza and a beer: US$8 Dinner at hotel: US$30 useum entry: US$10 Bus ride in shgabat: US$0.10 Taxi ride within shgabat: US$3 Domestic flight: US$100 Price Ranges Sleeping (for two people): $ <US$50, $$ US$50 100, $$$ >US$100 Eating (main course): $ <20, $$ 20 50, $$$ >50 Itineraries One Week Spend at least three days in and around shgabat before heading east to visit the ancient sites of erv and Gonur Depe. From here, return to shgabat and travel north to Konye-Urgench, camping en route at the unforgettable Darvaza Gas Craters. Two Weeks long with the sights mentioned above, take the time for some activities, such as horseback riding in Geok-Dere or a visit to the Köw ta Underground Lake and make a trip to the Yangykala Canyon and Turkmenbashi. Three Weeks rriving on a transit visa, spend a day in fascinatingly weird shgabat, cross the Karakum desert and spend the night camping by the Darvaza Gas Craters and then wrap things up with a visit to historic Konye-Urgench.

15 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Understand Central sia CENTRL SI TODY Rebuilding national identities, regional rivalries and a shared post-soviet past dominate modern Central sia today. HISTORY Continent-spanning empires, Silk Road cultural exchanges and imperial intrigue: Central sia s history is as colourful as it gets. THE SILK ROD Great civilisations connected by a web of trading routes, the Silk Road marks Central sia s cultural zenith. PEOPLE Nomads and warriors, Turkic and Persian, European and sian: Eurasia s cultural mix is endlessly fascinating. ISL IN CENTRL SI Islam rules here, but the softer Sufi brand dominates after 70 years of Soviet atheism. THE RTS From Zoroastrian-inspired embroidery to the handpicked bards of anas, art embodies the history and cultural of Central sia. RCHITECTURE Central sia s most impressive artistic heritage, the region s architecture features some of the world s most beautiful Islamic buildings. ENVIRONENT Disappearing seas, desertification and nuclear fallout make for few feel-good stories here.

16 406 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Central sia Today For the people of ex-soviet Central sia it s been a turbulent quarter-century since independence in Each of the republics have grappled with economic collapse, population shifts and resurgent Islam. ll are reinventing their past, rehabilitating historical heroes and reinforcing their national languages in an attempt to redefine and shore up what it means to be Central sian. Despite years of political repression and faltering economies, life is improving slowly, if unevenly, across the region. Best in Print The Lost Heart of sia (Colin Thubron; 1994) Our favourite travel writer captures the region in beautiful prose. lso try his more recent Shadow of the Silk Road (2007). The Great Game (Peter Hopkirk; 1990) Fast-paced and immensely readable account of 19th-century Victorian derring-do. The Land that Disappeared (Christopher Robbins; 2008) Excellent contemporary account of Kazakhstan. The Silk Road: Travel Companion (onathan Tucker; 2015) mixture of history, culture and architecture, focusing on Central sia, fghanistan and Iran. Best on Film The Desert of Forbidden rt (2010) Excellent documentary about Igor Savitsky and the 40,000 items of Soviet art he secretly collected in Karakalpakstan. Orlando (1992) Sally Potter s film of the Virginia Woolf novel has some spectacular scenes filmed in Khiva. Borat (2006) Kazakhstan s most famous fake citizen is ridiculous, but he s also hilarious and the satire is biting at times. Tulpan (2008) Kazakh drama about life on the steppe, as the main character tries to woo his prospective wife Tulpan. New Orientation It s not all political dictatorship and economic hardship. fter the confusion and social turmoil of the 1990s life has settled for many Central sians. Economies are growing and standards of living are rising. Grassroots community tourism projects are flourishing in much of the region. International crossings have been retied with China, fghanistan and Iran, opening up new opportunities for trade and tourism, and are fast reconnecting the region to the rest of the world. ll this reflects the redrawing of Central sia. Where once Tashkent and shgabat looked north to distant oscow for economic and political direction, modern Central sians now turn also to China, Turkey, Iran, Europe and the US, all of whom are equally intent on redefining spheres of influence long blocked by the Iron Curtain. The US-led War on Terror simply raised the stakes in a preexisting geopolitical game that envelops everything from transcontinental gas pipelines to US and Russian military bases in the region. The death of Uzbekistan President Karimov in 2016 has ushered in some positive economic and political changes in Uzbekistan, from currency and visa reform to new regional transport connections. The region s main political question mark is whether the new Uzbek regime will continue these modest liberalisations and improve regional ties with neighbouring Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, as well as international relations with the outside world. Differing Paths In addressing their shared postindependence challenges the Central sian governments are forging quite different paths. Turkmenistan and Kazakhstan are the only republics that seem to have bright economic prospects sitting pretty on enormous reserves of oil

17 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Uzbekistan % 998 / POP 32.1 ILLION Includes Tashkent Kokand Fergana ndijon Samarkand Shakhrisabz Bukhara Urgench Khiva oynaq Understand Uzbekistan Survival Guide Best Places to Eat fsona (p211) National Food (p210) Platan (p237) inzifa (p257) Terasse Cafe (p268) Best Places to Stay ahongir B&B (p235) melia Boutique Hotel (p255) Emir B&B (p256) ntica (p236) eros B&B (p268) Why Go? The region s cradle of culture for more than two millennia, Uzbekistan is the proud home to a spellbinding arsenal of architecture and ancient cities, all deeply infused with the bloody, fascinating history of the Silk Road. In terms of sights alone, Uzbekistan is Central sia s biggest draw and most impressive showstopper. Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva never fail to impress visitors with their fabulous mosques, medressas and mausoleums, while its more eccentric attractions, such as the fast disappearing ral Sea, the fortresses of desperately remote Karakalpakstan, its boom town capital Tashkent and the ecotourism opportunities of the Nuratau ountains, mean that even the most diverse tastes can be catered for. Despite being a harshly governed police state, Uzbekistan remains an extremely friendly country where hospitality remains an essential element of daily life and you ll be made to feel genuinely welcome by the people you meet. When to Go Tashkent C/ F Temp 40/104 30/86 20/68 10/50 0/32 pr un Clear skies, sunshine and cool air combine to create perfect travel conditions. F uly & ug The extreme heat of the summer means bargains can be had at many hotels. S O Rainfall inches/mm 5/125 N D 4/100 3/75 2/50 1/25 Sep & Oct Days remain warm despite the summer having passed and it s yet to get cold. 0

18 198 Uzbekistan TOP TIP Uzbekistan has charming accommodation (especially B&Bs), but book well in advance during high season, especially in Bukhara, Khiva and Samarkand, where all the best places will normally be full. Lesser options are unfortunately a big step down in comfort and atmosphere. Home- and yurtstays are possible. Fast Facts rea 447,400 sq km Capital Tashkent Currency som (S) Languages Uzbek, Russian, Tajik, Karakalpak Exchange Rates ustralia $1 6400S Canada C$1 6500S China 10 12,940S Euro zone 1 10,100S apan S NZ NZ$1 5800S Russia R100 14,300S UK 1 11,400S US US$1 8200S For current exchange rates, see Resources dvantour (www. advantour.com) Karakalpakstan (www. karakalpak.com) Orexca ( Lonely Planet (www. lonelyplanet.com/uzbekistan) Visas & Permits Uzbek visas are needed by almost all nationalities. They are relatively painless to obtain, and most nationalities no longer require a letter of invitation. COSTS Relative Cost Cheaper than Kazakhstan, but more expensive than Tajikistan. Daily Expenses Budget: Less than US$40 Hostel dorm: US$10 12 Bukhara B&B double: US$45 70 Shashlyk: US$1 Good restaurant meal: US$4 Shared taxi Bukhara to Khiva: US$10 per person Tashkent fast train to Samarkand: economy class US$8 Flight from Tashkent to Urgench: US$102 Price Ranges Sleeping (double room with bath, including breakfast) $ <US$30, $$ US$30 70, $$$ >US$70 Eating (main course) $ <10,00S, $$ 10,000 20,000S, $$$ >20,000S Itineraries One Week In one week you can cover the big three in a trans-steppe dash. Start in impressive Samarkand to explore the pearls of Timurid-era architecture, zip to enchanting Bukhara to see the Lyabi-Hauz, tour the rk and gape at the 47m Kalon inaret and its stunning mosque, before continuing to perfectly preserved Khiva. Fly back from Urgench. Two weeks In two weeks you can do the five major places of interest in Uzbekistan at an unhurried pace. Fly west to Nukus and spend a half-day appreciating Central sia s greatest art collection before heading to Khiva via the ancient ruined fortresses of Elliq-Qala. Spend a few days in both Bukhara and Samarkand before ending up in Tashkent for some museum hopping, good food and a night or two on the town. One month ll of the above sights can be seen in a month at a more relaxed pace. You can also visit both Termiz and the Fergana Valley and devote more time to exploring Uzbekistan s natural wonders, including hiking in the Chimgan region and homestay tourism in the Nuratau ountains.

19 4 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to Central sia With its medieval blue-domed cities, kinetic bazaars and remote yurtstays, Central sia encapsulates the romance of the Silk Road like nowhere else. Warm Welcome Whether you want to explore the architectural gems of Bukhara or take a horse trek across the high Pamirs, everywhere in Central sia you ll be greeted with instinctive local hospitality and offered a shared meal, a helping hand or a place to stay. Beyond Uzbekistan s Silk Road cities, mass tourism has yet to make any inroads in Central sia, lending an authentic sense of discovery to each trip. dd to this the intrinsic fascination of a forgotten region slowly emerging as a geopolitical pivot point and you have one of sia s most absorbing hidden corners. Footprints of History From lexander the Great to Chinggis (Genghis) Khan to Timur (Tamerlane), Central sia s page-turning history litters the land at every turn. From the right angle and with one eye closed, the storied oasis caravan stops of Samarkand and Bukhara, with their exotic skylines of minarets and medressas, really do seem to be lifted directly from the age of arco Polo. Share a round of kebabs with an Uzbek trader or wander an ancient caravanserai and historical romantics will find the past and present begin to blur into one in Central sia. ountains & Yurts East of the desert and steppe settlements rise the snow-capped Pamir and Tian Shan ranges of Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, home to traditional herding communities and some truly epic mountain scenery. Here community-based tourism projects can bring you face to face with nomadic Kyrgyz herders, meeting them in their yurts and on their terms. Ride out to remote lakes on horseback, hike from one village homestay to another, or take a 4WD out to remote archaeological sites. The scope for adventure and exploration here is almost limitless. Travel off the ap For decades centuries even much of the world has regarded Central sia as a blank on the map, synonymous with the middle of nowhere, rather than the heartland of sia. For a certain type of wanderer, this is all part of the attraction of a land that has been largely off-limits to travellers for the last 2000 years. Head even a little bit off the beaten track and you ll likely have the place to yourself. The region s little-visited oddities, namely Turkmenistan and most of Kazakhstan, are even further removed from the modern world and offer an addictive interest all of their own.

20 5 CHEKUNOV LEKSNDR/SHUTTERSTOCK Why I love Central sia By Bradley ayhew, Writer Each republic in Central sia has its own attraction for me. In Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan I love the unrivalled mountain scenery and the incredible tradition of hospitality among the local Wakhi and Kyrgyz. In Uzbekistan it s the glorious weight of history and the sense of travelling in the sand-prints of some of history s greatest travellers and invaders. There s also something unique and even slightly weird about Central sia, as if the normal rules of tourist engagement don t quite apply. For me it s a completely addictive place; I freely admit to being a Stan-oholic. For more about our writers, see p512 bove: Uzbek children, Bukhara (p247)

21 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Kazakhstan % 7 / POP 17.8 ILLION Includes lmaty Central Tian Shan Turkestan ral stana ltay ountains Semey Understand Kazakhstan Survival Guide Best Places to Eat Olivia (p318) Line Brew (p300) Tandoor (p299) y Cafe (p300) Izumi Tai (p342) Gosti (p299) Best Places to Stay Rixos Khadisha Shymkent (p317) Wild Nature (p321) Orbita Boutique Hotel (p317) Rixos lmaty (p298) Zhanara s Homestay (p311) Hostel stana (p339) Why Go? The world s ninth-biggest country is the most economically advanced of the stans, thanks to its abundant reserves of oil and most other valuable minerals. This means generally better standards of accommodation, restaurants and transport than elsewhere in Central sia. The biggest city, lmaty, is almost reminiscent of Europe with its leafy avenues, chic LZhiR useum-emorial Complex, glossy shopping centres and hedonistic nightlife. The capital stana, on the windswept northern steppe, has been transformed into a 21st-century showpiece with a profusion of bold futuristic architecture. But it s beyond the cities that you ll find the greatest travel adventures, whether hiking in the high mountains and green valleys of the Tian Shan, searching for wildlife on the lake-dotted steppe, enjoying homespun hospitality in village guesthouses, or jolting across the western deserts to remote underground mosques. When to Go lmaty C/ F Temp 40/104 30/86 20/68 10/50 0/32-10/14 F pr un Naturalists heaven as the steppe and hills blossom and migrating birds flock in. ay Sep The weather is perfect; from uly it s hiking season. S O Rainfall inches/mm 5/125 N D 4/100 3/75 2/50 1/25 Nov pr It s cold, but skiers enjoy Central sia s best facilities at Chimbulak. 0

22 289 Visas & Permits Citizens of 45 countries, including EU states, ustralia, Canada, Israel, apan, New Zealand, Norway, South Korea, Switzerland, the US and some other countries can travel to Kazakhstan without a visa for up to 30 days; as always in this region it is best to check that this arrangement continues. For most other visas you must obtain a letter of invitation (LOI) before applying, available through most travel agencies in Kazakhstan and Central sia travel specialists in other countries. Registration is required if you are staying in Kazakhstan more than five days only if you enter by land or sea and your entry form is stamped once rather than twice. If it s stamped twice, you don t need to register. It is not necessary to register if you enter by air. TOP TIP ake the effort to get beyond Kazakhstan s cities to the beautiful mountain, steppe or desert country, and the hospitality of rural homestays and guesthouses. Side trips to ksu-zhabagyly Nature Reserve or Sayram-Ugam National Park are easy. COSTS Relative Cost Slightly more expensive than Uzbekistan, but cheaper than Turkmenistan. Daily Expenses Hostel dorm (lmaty or stana): T Comfortable hotel double:12,000 20,000T Stolovaya (canteen) meal 1000T, restaurant dinner: T dmission to museums: T Train: lmaty to stana: platskartny (hard-sleeper)/kupeyny (soft-sleeper) 4443/9774T, high speed 13,567T Price Ranges Sleeping (double room with bathroom, including breakfast): $ <8200T, $$ ,800T, $$$ >28,000T Eating (main course): $ <1500T, $$ T, $$$ >3000T Fast Facts rea 2.7 million sq km Capital stana Currency Tenge (T) Languages Kazakh, Russian Exchange Rates ustralia $1 255T Canada C$1 257T China T Euro zone 1 400T apan T NZ NZ$1 237T Russia R10 56T UK UK 1 450T US US$1 324T Kazakhstan Itineraries One week Explore lmaty and take four or five days to explore Kolsai Lakes, the Charyn Canyon and the ltyn-emel National Park. Two weeks Extend the weeklong itinerary with time in southern Kazakhstan: Shymkent, lovely ksu-zhabagyly Nature Reserve, the splendour of Turkestan and the spectacular arid scenery and eerie Soviet boat wrecks on the bank of the ral Sea. One month You can get round the whole country, visiting remote destinations such as the ancient underground mosques of angistauin, the pristine ltay ountains and the glitz of 21st-century architecture in stana, the capital. Resources Edge ( Visit Kazakhstan (www. visitkazakhan.kz) Lonely Planet (www. lonelyplanet.com/kazakhstan)

23 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Kyrgyzstan % 996 / POP 5.76 ILLION Includes Bishkek...58 Karakol Son-Köl Naryn Tash Rabat alal-bad rslanbob Osh Uzgen Understand Kyrgyzstan Survival Guide Best Places to Eat Chaikana Navat (p64) Pur-Pur (p64) Shashlyk No. 1 (p64) Supara Ethno-Complex (p64) Tsarskii Dvor (p119) Why Go? Officially the Kyrgyz Republic (Кыргызская Республика), Kyrgyzstan (Кыргызстан) is a nation defined by its natural beauty. oyously unspoilt mountainscapes, stark craggy ridges and rolling jailoos (summer pastures) are brought to life by seminomadic, yurt-dwelling shepherds. dd to this a well-developed network of homestays and visa-free travel, and it s easy to see why Kyrgyzstan is the gateway of choice for many travellers in Central sia. s can be expected in a country where the vast majority of attractions are rural and high altitude, the timing of your visit is crucial. Summer is ideal with hikes and roads generally accessible. idsummer also sees Kazakh and Russian tourists converge on the beaches of never-freezing Lake Issyk-Köl. From October to ay, much rural accommodation closes down and the yurts that add such character to the lpine vistas are stashed away think twice about a winter visit unless you ve come to ski or snowboard. When to Go Bishkek C/ F Temp 40/104 30/86 20/68 Rainfall inches/mm 5/125 4/100 3/75 Best Places to Stay Southside B&B (p62) Supara Chunkurchak (p75) Kara-Kyz Yurt-Camp (p95) Sary-Oi Yurt-Camp (p122) BUGU Hotel (p60) Bel-Tam Yurt-Camp (p98) 10/50 0/32-10/14 F ay un Flowers bloom and tourist numbers are low; higher mountains may be snowbound. ul Sep Ideal for treks; many festivals; accommodation heavily booked; cities stiflingly hot. S O N D 2/50 1/25 Dec ar Rural accommodation closed; trekking areas inaccessible; great for skiing and winter sports. 0

24 55 Visas & Permits t least 60 nationalities can visit Kyrgyzstan without visas, including citizens of Korea, apan, most major Western countries and former Soviet countries. any visitors who do need a visa can arrange for one online ( COSTS Relative Cost arginally the cheapest state in Central sia. Daily Expenses Hostel dorm (Bishkek) or rural homestay: som idrange hotel: US$30 50 Street snack: 40 60som Self-service cafeteria meal: som Good restaurant meal in Bishkek: som Full day horse riding with guide: som Long-distance share-taxi seat: som Long-distance car with driver per day: 3000som TOP TIP The real draw is exploring the countryside, and our suggestions are just initial pointers. The best way to explore is to simply head out into jailoos and hills and find your own way. But remember that everything is seasonal. Fast Facts rea 199,990 sq km Capital Bishkek Currency som Languages Kyrgyz, Russian Kyrgyzstan Price Ranges Sleeping (double room with bath): $ >1750som, $$ som, $$$ >4800som Eating (main course): $ <250som, $$ som, $$$ >700som Itineraries One Week Head for Lake Issyk-Köl, where Karakol makes an ideal base for exploring the diversity of Kyrgyzstan s culture and heading out for a few days skiing or hiking in the mountains (depending on the season). Two Weeks Visit Issyk-Köl and Son-Köl, then head through the mountains via the Kazarman route or back to Bishkek on public transport. Either way, your destination is the Fergana Valley via Osh, stopping in pretty rslanbob en route or continuing south all the way to the spectacular lay mountains. One onth With more time you can add a two-week prearranged horse trek, mountaineering or trekking expedition to the two-week itinerary, or plan trips to remote corners of the country like Köl-Suu lake or Inilchek glacier. Exchange Rates ustralia $ som Canada C$ som China som Euro som zone apan som NZ NZ$ som Russia R som UK UK som US US$ som For current exchange rates, see Resources CBT ( GoKG ( Tenti ( Trip to Kyrgyzstan ( com/en/map)

25 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Tajikistan % 992 / POP 8.7 ILLION Includes Dushanbe Fergana Valley Khojand Fan ountains The Pamirs Khorog Understand Tajikistan Survival Guide Best Places to Eat Chaykhona Rokhat (p151) Davlatkhon Homestay (p183) Dilovar s Villa (p163) Delhi Darbar (p178) Darvaz Sangakov Bahrom (p174) Sayokhat (p161) Best Places to Stay arian s Guesthouse (p147) Serena Hotel (p150) Karon Palace (p174) Guesthouse Shahboz (p163) Lal Hotel (p178) Erali Guesthouse (p184) Why Go? The term predominantly mountainous doesn t do justice to a country where over 90% of the land is upland. This fact of nature has given Tajikistan a precious advantage over its neighbours, namely some of the most inspiring, highaltitude landscape in the world. Within an hour of Dushanbe lie multi-hued lakes, peaks that beg to be climbed and high passes that thrill even reluctant travellers. In among this natural splendour are scattered villages and towns that survive cheek-by-jowl through each extreme season. It hasn t been easy for these traditional communities to adapt to the changing world beyond their mountain strongholds, but despite this they are unfailingly welcoming of outsiders and cheerfully excuse cultural faux-pas as part and parcel of their proud democracy. For visitors tolerant of a few travelling hardships (outdoor loos, cold water, potholed roads), the country more than compensates with a rare glimpse into life lived on The Roof of the World. When to Go Dushanbe C/ F Temp 40/104 30/86 20/68 10/50 0/32 F id-un Sep The cities sizzle, but this is the only viable time for High Pamir treks. pr ay ild in the lowlands; heavy showers cause landslides blocking mountain roads. S O Rainfall inches/mm 5/125 N D Nov Feb Temperatures in the Pamirs drop to between -20 C and -45 C (-4 F to -49 F). 4/100 3/75 2/50 1/25 0

26 142 Tajikistan TOP TIP Hire a 4WD. With public transport minimal to non-existent in much of the country, a car and driver transforms a visit to Tajikistan, especially in the Pamirs. Fast Facts rea 143,100 sq km Capital Dushanbe Currency US dollar, Tajik somoni (TS) Languages Tajik, Russian, Uzbek, Sogdian, several Pamiri languages, Kyrgyz Exchange Rates ustralia $1 6.93TS Canada C$1 7.13TS China TS Euro TS zone apan TS NZ NZ$1 6.40TS Russia R TS UK UK TS US US$1 8.82TS For current exchange rates, see Resources sia Plus ( tj/en) Pamirs ( PECT ( com) Tajik Tourism ( tajiktourism.com) Trekking in the Pamirs ( Visas & Permits For most nationalities e-visas (US$50) are available online at These e-visas are valid for 45 days and include the permit for GBO (eastern Tajikistan). COSTS Relative Cost ore expensive than Kyrgyzstan, but cheaper than Uzbekistan (unless you re renting a 4WD). Daily Expenses Floor space in homestay: US$10 Double room with bathroom: US$ Self-catering: US$5 Three meals in homestays: US$15 Overnight guided trek: US$ Seat in shared taxi: US$45 Charter of small 4WD with driver: US$80 Price Ranges Sleeping (double room with bath, including breakfast): $ <US$40, $$ US$40 150, $$$ >US$150 Eating (main course): $ <US$5, $$ US$5 30, $$$ >US$30 Itineraries One week fter two nights in Dushanbe travel north to Khojand. On the outward journey spend two nights at Iskander-Kul and Sarytag to allow a day s trekking in the Fan ountains. Overnight in Khojand and spend the morning enjoying the citadel and bazaar and either return to the capital or travel on to the Uzbekistan or Kyrgyzstan borders. Two weeks llow five days to travel from Dushanbe to Osh along the Pamir Hwy. Break the journey in the friendly towns of Kalai-Kum and Khorog and allow a day to absorb the windswept isolation of urgab. In 10 days, add in the sourthern route between Khorog and urgab, through the timeless Wakhan Valley with its ancient shrines and traditional culture. Three weeks Combine the one- and two-week itineraries (with the relevant multiple entry visa) to make a circuit through Tajikistan either starting in Dushanbe or in Osh. Travelling anticlockwise has a slight edge on the journey in reverse.