The Five Stans. September 1 to 20, a program of the stanford alumni association. Where Old Traditions Abound

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1 S T A N F O R D T R A V E L / S T U D Y The Five Stans Where Old Traditions Abound September 1 to 20, 2013 a program of the stanford alumni association

2 Think you ve been everywhere? Only the most intrepid travelers have visited the legendary five Stans of Central Asia. While traveling there is a daunting proposition for most, those with a sense of adventure will find these lands visited by Alexander the Great, Tamerlane and Marco Polo well worth the effort. Today, the ancient cities of of these emerging countries Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva retain vestiges of their legendary past when they were important stops along the fabled Silk Road. Benefit from the expertise of local guides, while faculty leader Professor Gail Lapidus shares with us her vast knowledge of each country s politics, economy and culture since its independence. Join us on a journey you ll never forget! CAPTION Brett S. Thompson, 83, Director, Stanford Travel/Study Highlights MARVEL at an amazing trove of forbidden avantgarde Russian art in the remote town of Nukus, Uzbekistan, all secretly collected during Soviet rule. COVER: TASHKENT, UZBEKISTAN ADMIRE the monumental and dazzling Persian architecture of the ancient Silk Road oasis towns of Samarkand and Bukhara. View Tashkent s Uthman Koran, considered by Sunni Muslims to be the oldest true Koran in the world. KHIVA, UZBEKISTAN

3 Tashauz Aral Sea Nukus UZBEKISTAN Khiva KAZAKHSTAN Tashkent Bishkek KYRGYZ Ashkhabad Khujand Bukhara Samarkand TURKMENISTAN Shakhrisabz TAJIKISTAN IRAN AFGHANISTAN Itinerary SUNDAY & MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 1 & 2 Depart U.S. / Almaty, Kazakhstan Depart the U.S. on overnight flights to Kazakhstan. Upon arrival early Tuesday morning in Almaty, transfer to our hotel, located in the city center. HOTEL INTERCONTINENTAL TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 3 Almaty On the edge of the Tian Shan mountains, Kazakhstan s largest city of Almaty began as an important Silk Road town. Begin our exploration in Panfilov Park at the pastelcolored Zenkov Orthodox cathedral. At the Zelyony Bazaar marvel at the fresh, locally grown produce, nuts and dried fruits. Tour the Kazakh Museum of Musical Instruments and continue to the State Central Museum. Later, observe the sport of falconry at a falcon farm near Almaty. Tonight enjoy a welcome reception and dinner at our hotel. HOTEL INTERCONTINENTAL (B,L,D) WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 4 Almaty / Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan Depart Almaty for the Small Almaty Gorge and its Medeo Sports Complex. Enjoy lunch and a musical performance in a traditional ger. Continue to Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, which gained independence only after the dissolution of the Soviet Union. Check in to our hotel for dinner and a folk performance. HYATT REGENCY BISHKEK (B,L,D) THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 5 Bishkek Snow-covered mountains form a background to Bishkek, a city of trees and broad boulevards that was originally a rest stop on the Silk Road. Today visit the Ata- Beiit Memorial, which honors fallen Kyrgyz war heroes. Meet staff and students of the American University and listen as they tell us about their lives and studies. At the State Historical Museum, learn about the nomadic peoples of the region and observe the traditional art of felt-making. This evening, enjoy dinner and a performance of classical Kyrgyz music. HYATT REGENCY BISHKEK (B,L,D) FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 6 Bishkek / Tashkent, Uzbekistan Fly to Tashkent, Uzbekistan s capital, a mix of tree-lined boulevards, Soviet-style buildings, mosques and madrassahs. Upon arrival, visit the madrassah library that houses the Uthman Koran, believed by Sunni Muslims to be the oldest true Koran in the world. After attending a performance at the Navoi Opera and Ballet Theatre, enjoy dinner independently. HOTEL TASHKENT PALACE (B,L) SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 7 Tashkent Start with a visit to the Kukeldash Madrassah, or Koranic school, one of the largest in Central Asia, and the Jummi Mosque. Visit the Alisher Navoi Park and monument, honoring the father of Uzbek literature. Next, stop at the Abdul Khasim Madrassah and the studio of a contemporary ceramicist. HOTEL TASHKENT PALACE (B,L,D)

4 KHIVA, UZBEKISTAN Almaty Lake Issyk-Kul STAN CHINA SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 8 Tashkent / Khujand, Tajikistan Drive to Khujand, Tajikistan s second-largest city and another ancient Silk Road stop. Explore the Timurmalik Fortress, the Sogdian Museum and the colorful Panshanbe Bazaar. This evening join representatives of a local Tajik NGO for dinner and a discussion on local humanitarian projects. KHUJAND GRAND HOTEL (B,L,D) MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 9 Khujand / Samarkand, Uzbekistan After a leisurely morning, set off by road for the desert city of Samarkand, located at the midpoint of the long Silk Road. Visit the city s famed Registan Square, meaning place of sand, and marvel at the stunning buildings with their brilliant-blue mosaic and tile work. HOTEL REGISTAN PLAZA (B,L,D) TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10 Samarkand Visit a mosque designed by Tamerlane and dedicated to his favorite wife, then wander among the nearby mausoleums of Shah-I- Zinda. Examine the Ulug Bek Observatory, built by Tamerlane s grandson, a remarkable astronomerking. Attend a meeting with staff and students at the Samarkand State Institute of Foreign Languages. Later visit the workshop of a UNESCOsponsored fine-paper-making project. HOTEL REGISTAN PLAZA (B,L,D) WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 11 Samarkand / Bukhara Depart for Bukhara, stopping in the ancient town of Shakrisabze, birthplace of Tamerlane, who conquered Central Asia in the 14th century. Visit his Ak Saray, or White Palace, complex, known for its massive portal covered with blue, white and gold ceramics. Continue to Bukhara and check in to our traditional hotel. SASHA & SON B&B (B,L,D) THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 12 Bukhara Bukhara is a historic city of mosques and madrassahs and has Central Asia s only still-inhabited, intact historic core. Begin our tour at the Lyabl-Hauz Square, the center of the Old Town, and the nearby Kukeldash Madrassah, the largest Koranic school in Central Asia. Stroll through bazaars to the Kalon Mosque and Minaret. In the Ark Citadel, meet with the museum s senior advisor and explore Bukhara s old Jewish Quarter. SASHA & SON B&B (B,L,D) FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13 Bukhara This morning admire the Summer Palace of the last local emir, built by the Russians to keep him in luxurious isolation. Tour the Museum of National Crafts, then continue to the Bakhaudin Nakshbah Complex, built for a mystic and founder of an order of Sufis. Enjoy free time to explore Bukhara independently, perhaps shopping for souvenirs or jewelry in its bazaar. This evening, dine at a madrassah and attend a performance by local artists. SASHA & SON B&B (B,L,D)

5 ASHKHABAD, TURKMENISTAN BUKHARA, UZBEKISTAN SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 14 Bukhara / Khiva Depart Bukhara for the great city of Khiva. Our drive crosses long stretches of the Kyzyl Kum, or Red Sands Desert, on a route once trod by camel caravans. Near the Turkmenistan border, stop for a look at the Amu Darya River, known to the ancient Greeks as the Oxus River. Upon arrival in Khiva, check in to our hotel where we dine this evening. HOTEL ASIA KHIVA (B,L,D) SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 15 Khiva According to legend, the oasis of Khiva was founded by Shem, a son of Noah, at the spot where he found water in the desert. Explore the ancient city on foot, beginning with the Tash Hauli Palace, once the home of the khans and their four legal wives. Admire the Dhuma Mosque s carved wooden ceiling and columns, then climb the watchtower of the Old Fortress for a sweeping view of Khiva. This evening, attend a Khalfi performance of Khorezmian music and dance. HOTEL ASIA KHIVA (B,L) MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 16 Khiva / Nukus Depart this morning for a day in Nukus, a remote and closed city during the Soviet era and now the home of the State Art Museum of the Republic of Karakalpakstan, an autonomous region. Here Igor Savitsky amassed an extensive collection of avantgarde Russian art. Enjoy a private showing of these remarkable paintings. Also visit the Karakalpak State Museum to learn about the shrinking of the Aral Sea. HOTEL ASIA KHIVA (B,L,D) TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 17 Khiva / Tashauz, Turkmenistan / Ashkhabad Drive to Tashauz, entering Turkmenistan, for a short tour of the city and lunch. Then fly to Ashkhabad over the dramatic Karakum ( Black Sand ) Desert. Transfer to our hotel and dine there this evening. SOFITEL ASHKHABAD OGUZKENT (B,L,D) WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 18 Ashkhabad Visit Ashkhabad s New Mosque and the Turkmen- Turkish Cultural Center. Continue to the National Museum of History and Ethnography, which includes among its displays a huge meteorite. Later, visit a nearby horse-breeding farm devoted to the Akhad-Tekke, the oldest cultured breed of horse in the world. SOFITEL ASHKHABAD OGUZKENT (B,L,D) THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 19 Ashkhabad Stroll through the Altyn Asyr Oriental Market, one of the largest in Central Asia, where one can find everything from classic carpets to animals. Gather for our farewell lunch and musical entertainment. This afternoon join a local archaeologist to visit the UNESCO World Heritage site of Nisa, once an important trading center of the ancient Parthian kingdom. Dine this evening at a local restaurant. SOFITEL ASHKHABAD OGUZKENT (B,L,D) FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 20 Ashkhabad / U. S. Transfer to the airport early this morning for flights back to the U.S. (B)

6 Trip Information Dates September 1 to 20, 2013 (20 days) Size Limited to 40 participants cost* $ 9,995 per person, double occupancy $ 11,495 per person, single occupancy *Association nonmembers add $200 per person INCLUDED 18 nights of best-available hotel accommodations 17 breakfasts, 17 lunches and 15 dinners Bottled water on buses for all excursions and travel days Beer and wine at welcome reception and farewell luncheon Internal flights in economy class: Bishkek/Tashkent and Tashauz/Ashkhabad Visas for U.S. citizens Gratuities to porters, guides and drivers for all group activities All tours and excursions as described in the itinerary Transfers and baggage handling for participants on recommended flight itinerary Minimal medical, accident and evacuation insurance Educational program with lecture series and pre-departure materials, including Terms & Conditions Deposit & Final Payment A $1,000-per-person deposit is required to hold space for this program. Complete and return the attached reservation form or place your deposit online. Final payment is due 120 days prior to departure. As a condition of participation, all confirmed participants are required to sign a Release of Liability. Cancellations & Refunds Deposits and any payments are fully refundable, less a $500-per-person cancellation fee, until 120 days prior to departure. After that date, refunds can be made only if the program is sold out and your place(s) can be resold, in which case a $1,000-perperson cancellation fee will apply. We recommend trip-cancellation insurance; applications will be sent to you. Insurance Stanford Travel/Study provides all travelers who are U.S. or Canadian citizens with minimal medical, accident and evacuation coverage under our group-travel insurance policy. Our group policy is intended to provide minimal levels of protection while you are traveling on this program. We strongly recommend that you subscribe to optional baggage and trip-cancellation insurance. A brochure offering such insurance will be mailed with your confirmation about one week after we receive your deposit. The product recommended reading list, a selected book, map and travel information Services of our professional tour manager to assist you throughout the program NOT INCLUDED International and U.S. domestic airfare Passport fees Immunization costs Meals and beverages other than those specified as included Transfers and baggage handling for those not arriving or departing on recommended flight itinerary Trip-cancellation/interruption and baggage insurance Excessbaggage charges Personal items such as internet access, telephone and fax calls, laundry and gratuities for nongroup services Air Arrangements International and U.S. domestic airfare is not included in the program cost. Round-trip, economy-class airfare on Lufthansa Airlines from San Francisco to Almaty, Kazakhstan, and return from Ashkhabad, Turkmenistan, is approximately $2,350 as of October 2012 and is subject to change without notice. Information on recommended flight itineraries will be sent by our designated agent. offered in this brochure includes special benefits if you postmark your insurance payment within a specified window: 15 days of the date listed on the confirmation letter for the Waiver of Pre-existing Conditions and coverage for Financial Insolvency; 21 days for the Cancel for Any Reason benefit. Eligibility We encourage membership in the Alumni Association as the program cost for nonmembers is $200 more than the members price. Parents and their children under 21 may travel on one membership. For more information or to purchase a membership, visit alumni.stanford/ goto/membership or call (650) Responsibility The Stanford Alumni Association, Stanford University and our operators act only as agents for the passenger with respect to transportation and exercise every care possible in doing so. However, we can assume no liability for injury, damage, loss, accident, delay or irregularity in connection with the service of any automobile, motorcoach, launch or any other conveyance used in carrying out this program or for the acts or defaults of any company or person engaged in conveying the passenger or in carrying out the arrangements of the program. We cannot accept any responsibility for Pavlovsk Palace What to expect We consider this a physically demanding, strenuous program, suitable only for travelers in excellent health and with greater-than-average stamina and enthusiasm for adventurous travel experiences. Daily activities may involve several miles of walking, often on uneven paths and rocky terrain. We visit remote areas unaccustomed to tourism and with developing infrastructures, and our journey at times requires several hours of travel by motorcoach; the longest drive is six to seven hours, depending on road conditions. Due to poor repair and some bumpy, unpaved roads, travel may be slow at times. Accommodations and motorcoaches used throughout the itinerary are the best available, but may not meet some travelers expectations of cleanliness and comfort. In many ways, the challenges of this program are part of the learning experience. We expect that participants will be a self-selecting group whose interest in the places we visit outweighs the need for creature comforts. We welcome travelers 15 years of age and older on this program. losses or additional expenses due to delay or changes in air or other services, sickness, weather, strike, war, quarantine, force majeure or other causes beyond our control. All such losses or expenses will have to be borne by the passenger as tour rates provide arrangements only for the time stated. We reserve the right to make such alterations to this published itinerary as may be deemed necessary. The right is reserved to cancel any program prior to departure in which case the entire payment will be refunded without further obligation on our part. The right is also reserved to decline to accept or retain any person as a member of the program. No refund will be made for an unused portion of any tour unless arrangements are made in sufficient time to avoid penalties. Baggage is carried at the owner s risk entirely. The airlines concerned are not to be held responsible for any act, omission or event during the time that passengers are not onboard their plane or conveyance. Neither the Alumni Association, Stanford University nor our operators accept liability for any carrier s cancellation penalty incurred by the purchase of a nonrefundable ticket in connection with the tour. Program price is based on rates in effect in October 2012 and is subject to change without notice to reflect fluctuations in exchange rates, tariffs or fuel charges. California Seller of Travel Program Registration # Tel (650) FAX (650) travelstudy@stanfordalumni.org COPYRIGHT 2012 STANFORD ALUMNI ASSOCIATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Printed on recycled, FSC-certified paper in the U.S.

7 Faculty Leader Gail is just outstanding! I would look forward to any trip that she would lead. Don Reinberg, Dalmatian Coast College, 2008 Growing up in the U.S. during the Cold War, D R. G A I L LAPIDUS was fascinated by the Communist regimes of the vast Soviet Union and Eastern Europe. Their rich histories and cultures juxtaposed against rigid political systems drew her into studying these entities, and the causes and consequences of their later collapse have been the focus of her recent teaching and research. Her extensive travels in Central Asia and contacts among the countries intellectual and governmental elite have given her valuable insights into the challenges facing each country as it undergoes major economic, political and social transformations. This is her 16th trip with Stanford Travel/Study. At Stanford: senior fellow emerita, Freeman Spogli Institute for International Studies, and professor, by courtesy, of political science Head of the UC-Berkeley/Stanford Program in Soviet and Post-Soviet Studies Former president, American Association for the Advancement of Slavic Studies Author of numerous studies of Soviet and post-soviet politics and foreign policy Member, board of trustees, World Affairs Council of Northern California and the European University of St. Petersburg Recipient of research fellowships at the Kennan Institute of the Woodrow Wilson Center, Columbia University s Harriman Institute and the Center for Advanced Study in the Behavioral Sciences at Stanford BA, Radcliffe College; MA and PhD, Harvard University S T A N F O R D T R A V E L / S T U D Y Reservation Form The Five Stans SIGN UP ONLINE! MR. / MRS. / MS. MISS / DR. / PROF. NAME AGE STANFORD CLASS MR. / MRS. / MS. MISS / DR. / PROF. NAME AGE STANFORD CLASS ADDRESS CITY / STATE / ZIP PHONE CELL / WORK / HOME ADDRESS BED PREFERENCE: Twins Double Here is my deposit of $ ($1,000 per person) for space(s). Enclosed is my check (payable to Stanford Alumni Association) OR Charge my deposit to my: Visa MasterCard American Express I/We have read the Terms and Conditions for the program and agree to them. CARD # SIGNATURE If this is a reservation for one person, please indicate: I wish to have single accommodations. OR I plan to share accommodations with: OR I d like to know about possible roommates. EXPIRATION DATE CARDHOLDER SIGNATURE DATE Mail completed form to address on mail panel or fax to (650) or place your deposit online at alumni.stanford.edu/trip?stans2013. Submit your reservation only once to avoid multiple charges to your account. 8782

8 Stanford Travel/Study Frances C. Arrillaga Alumni Center 326 Galvez Street Stanford, CA (650) The Five Stans Where Old Traditions Abound September 1 to 20, 2013 Nonprofit Org. U.S. Postage PAID Stanford Alumni Association This trip provided an opportunity to join a Silk Route caravan. Once again through Stanford Travel/Study, history s pages came alive. Thank you! Carolyn Haugen, 61, MA 62, Five Stans Suitcase Seminar, 2009 S T A N F O R D T R A V E L / S T U D Y