Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. Behind the Scenes

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1 470 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Beck Robey, Charlotte Walber, Dirk Gudde, Erin Fredericks, Fran Boersma, John Charles, Judy Pengelly, Kim MacDonald, Kristine Quint, Lucy Graham, Mario Pennacchio, Sebastian Braden, Stephanie Lacasse, Vanessa Mattingly WRITER S THANKS Andy Symington I owe thanks to many, but firstly to Jenny Neil and Brendan Bolland for being great friends and superb hosts, to Juliette and David Paton for their perpetual generosity and warm welcome and to my father for the whisky and much more. Gratitude goes also to Morwynne Carlow, Riika Åkerlind and numerous helpful folk met along the way. Big thanks also go to co-author Neil Wilson, editor James Smart and the LP team. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, pp Illustrations p56-7, p and p180-1 by Javier Zarracina. Cover photograph: Steam train crossing the Glenfinnan Railway Viaduct, Nick Fox/ Shutterstock THIS BOOK This 9th edition of Lonely Planet s Scotland guidebook was researched and written by Neil Wilson and Andy Symington, who also wrote the previous two editions. This guidebook was produced by the following: Destination Editor James Smart Product Editors Kate Chapman, Ross Taylor, Amanda Williamson Senior Cartographer Mark Griffiths Book Designer Cam Ashley Assisting Editors Peter Cruttenden, Bruce Evans, Gabrielle Innes, Bella Li, Anne Mason, Kate Mathews, Lauren O Connell, Gabrielle Stefanos, Fionnuala Twomey, Simon Williamson Assisting Cartographer Gabe Lindquist Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Thanks to Cheree Broughton, Daniel Corbett, Sasha Drew, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Martine Power, Lauren Wellicome

2 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 471 Index 7stanes 139, 166, 171 A Abbotsford 144 Aberdeen , accommodation activities drinking & nightlife 229 entertainment festivals & events 226 food sights tourist information 230 travel to/from 230 travel within 232 Aberdeenshire Aberdour 188 Aberfeldy Aberfoyle Aberlemno Stones 220 Aberlour accommodation 22, 420, 454-6, see also individual locations Acharacle 342 A Chill 347 Achiltibuie 367 activities 24, 27-8, 456-7, see also individual activities Adam, Robert 64, 66, 117, 151, 161, 448 Adam, William 59, 149, 232, 238, 448 Ailsa Craig 162 air travel 19, 463, 464 Airor 344 Alloway Alyth 207 amusement parks 225 An Coroghon 347 An T-Ath Leathann animals 451, 452 Annandale Anstruther Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Aonach Eagach 331 Appin 292 Applecross 372 aquariums 187, 191, 238 Arbroath archaeological sites, see also ruins, standing stones Banks Chambered Tomb 407 Barnhouse Neolithic Village 408 Dun Carloway 390 Dwarfie Stane 411 Grey Cairns of Camster 357 Jarlshof 422 Knap of Howar 415 Maeshowe Midhowe Cairn & Broch 413 Mine Howe 406 Mousa Broch 421 Ness of Brodgar 409 Old Scatness 423 Quoyness chambered tomb 413 Ring of Brodgar 408 Rousay 413 Skara Brae 17, 408-9, 17 Tomb of the Eagles 407 Torrylinn Cairn 274 architecture 113, 448 Ardbeg 265 Ardgay 354 Ardlui 243 Ardmore Islands 264 Ardnamurchan area codes 19 Arisaig Armadale Arnol 390 Arran 270-5, 271 Arrochar art galleries, see also museums Aberdeen Art Gallery 224 Burrell Collection 113 Dundee Contemporary Arts 213 Fergusson Gallery 200 Fyne Gallery 259 Gallery An Talla Dearg 380 Gallery of Modern Art 107, 121 Hawick Museum & Art Gallery 147 Hunterian Art Gallery 112 Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum 112 Kirkcaldy Galleries 188 McLean Museum & Art Gallery 135 Pier Arts Centre 410 Royal Scottish Academy 63 Scottish National Gallery 63 Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art 67 Scottish National Portrait Gallery 65-6 Shetland Gallery 424 Watermill, the Wild Space 324 Arthur s Seat 58, 21 arts arts festivals Art & Crafts Trail 169 Burns an a That 28 Edinburgh Festival Fringe 28 Edinburgh International Festival 28 Nairn Book & Arts Festival 303 Perth Festival of the Arts 202 St Magnus Festival 403 West End Festival 28 Winter Words 324 Askival 346 Assynt Atholl Highlanders 326 ATMs 460 Auchmithie 218 Aviemore Ayr 157-9, 158 Ayrshire B Ba, the 404 Badachro 370 Badbea 357 bagpipes Ballater Balloch 243 Balmaha 245 Balmoral Castle 205, 319 Balnakeil 363 Balquhidder 252 Banff 238 Barra 397 Barraigh 397 Barrie, JM 220 beaches 23 Banff Links 238 Bosta 390 Calgary Beach 285 Camusdarach Beach 236, 342 Coldingham Bay 153 Coll 290 Coral Beaches 384 Durness 363 Hushinish 392 Nairn 301 Red Point 370 Reef Beach 391 Sandwood Bay 366 Sannox 273 Scousburgh Sands 422 Silver Sands of Morar 342 Traigh Mor 397 Beauly 303 beavers 260 beer 233, 441, see also breweries Beinn Alligin 371 Beinn Eighe 371 Beinn Mhor 396 Beltane 415 Ben Challum 252 Ben Lawers 252, 330 Ben Lomond 241, 245 Ben Lui 246 Ben More 246, 283 Ben Nevis 13, 339, 317, 13, 316

3 472 INDEX B- C Benbecula 395 Berneray 394 Bettyhill Bharpa Langass 394 bicycle travel, see cycling Biggar Bigton 422 birds 451, 452, 17 birdwatching 16, 451, 452, 456 Aberdeen 225 Ailsa Craig 162 Galloway Forest Park 170 Handa Island 365 Isle of Noss 420 Loch Gruinart Nature Reserve 266 Loch Ken 168 Mull 281 North Berwick 99 North Uist 394 Orkney 414 RSPB Loch Garten Osprey Centre 314 Shetland 16, 420, 423, 424, 425, 426 St Kilda 395 Birks of Aberfeldy 328 Birnam Birsay 409 Black Isle 305 Black Wood of Rannoch 327 blackenings 405 Blackwaterfoot 274 Blair Atholl Blair Castle 326 Blairgowrie Blantyre 136 Boat Cave 287 Boat of Garten 314 boat travel 19, 464, 465 boat trips Arisaig 343 Coigach 367 Durness 363 Elgol Glasgow 116 Islay 263 Isle of May 197 John O Groats 359 Kyle of Lochalsh 374 Lewis 391 Loch Lomond Loch Ness 307, 308 Loch Shiel 342 Loch Tay 330 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Mull 281, 282 Mull of Kintyre 262 Oban 277 Plockton 373 Portree 382 Seil 280 Shetland 417, Torridon 371 Trossachs, the 249 Uist 396 Ullapool 367 Wick 358 Boddam 422 Bonar Bridge 354 Bonawe Iron Furnace 291 Bonnie Prince Charlie 301, 435, 436 books 102, 433, 434, 436, 437, 438, 445, 448, 451, see also literature Borders Abbeys Way 150 Borders Railway 22 Bosta 390 Bostadh 390 Bowmore 264, 265, 266 Brae 423 Braemar Braemar Gathering 28 Brechin 221 Bressay breweries Benleva Hotel 307 Brewdog 22, 88, 127, 129, 184, 229 De Brus 188 Fyne Ales 258 Isle of Arran 272 Moulin Hotel 325 Sligachan Hotel 381 St Andrews Brewing Co 195 Traquair House 143 West 127 Orkney Brewery 409 Bridge of Balgie 331 Bridge over the Atlantic 280 Broadford Brodick Brough of Birsay 409 Broughty Ferry 217 Brown, George Mackay 410, 445 Bruce, Robert the 142, 171, 182, 187, 291, 432, 433 Bruichladdich 265 Buachaille Etive Mor 331 budgeting 19 Bunessan 287 Bunnahabhain 265 Burns, Robert 27, 158, 159, 160, 162, 163, 328, 444 Burray 406 bus travel 19, 97, 162, 464, 465 business hours 19, 460 Bute Byron, Lord 319 C Caerlaverock Castle 165, 205, 2, 205 Cairngorm Mountain Cairngorms 36, , 310 Caithness Caledonian Canal 308, 336, 317 Caledonian Railway 221 Calgary Beach 285 Callander Callanish 390 Calton Hill 66-7, 81 Camera Obscura 51 Campbeltown Campsies canals 185 Canna Caol Acain 378 Caol Ila 265 Cape Wrath 364 car travel, see also driving tours driving licences 465 hire road rules 466 to/from Scotland 464 within Scotland 18, 19, Carloway 390 Carrbridge 314 Carsaig Arches 283, 287 castles & palaces 16, 23, 205, 16, 204, see also ruins Aberdour Castle 188 Balmoral Castle 205, 319 Blair Castle 326 Braemar Castle 320 Breachacha Castle 290 Brodick Castle 271 Caerlaverock Castle 205, 2, 205 Castle Campbell 186 Castle Douglas 167 Castle Fraser 234 Castle Menzies 328 Castle of Mey 359 Castle Stalker 292 Cawdor Castle 303 Craigievar Castle 235 Crathes Castle 232 Culcreuch Castle Culross Palace 187 Culzean Castle 161 Doune Castle 186, 205, 204 Duart Castle 282 Dunnottar Castle Dunollie Castle 275 Dunrobin Castle 356 Dunstaffnage Castle 205, 291, Dunvegan Castle 384 Edinburgh Castle 47, 50, 80 Edzell Castle 221 Eilean Donan Castle 375 Falkland Palace 190 Floors Castle 149 Fyvie Castle 232 Glamis Castle 218, 204 Glengorm Castle 285 Hermitage Castle 149, 205, 204 Inverness Castle 296 Kilchurn Castle 291, 316 Kinloch Castle 346 Kisimul Castle 397 Lews Castle 22, 388 Linlithgow Palace 102 Lochleven Castle 203 Lochranza Castle 273 MacLellan s Castle 169 Muness Castle Noltland Castle 414 Rothesay Castle 256 Scalloway Castle 421 Scone Palace 200 Skipness Castle 260 Smailholm Tower 205, 204 St Andrews Castle Stirling Castle 177-8, Tantallon Castle 99 Tarbert Castle 259 Threave Castle 167 Urquhart Castle 307, 317 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals Cawdor Castle 303 cell phones 18, Celtic Connections 27, 116 cemeteries 59 Central Highlands 42, , accommodation 293 climate 293 food 293 highlights travel seasons 293

4 473 central Scotland 41, , 177 accommodation 176 climate 176 food 176 highlights 177 travel seasons 176 Chanonry Point 305 Charlotte Sq 64 cheese 261 children, travel with 68, 125, 441, 457 churches & cathedrals Brechin Cathedral 221 Canongate Kirkyard 55 Church of the Holy Rude 182 Dryburgh Abbey 144 Dunblane Cathedral 185 Dunfermline Abbey Church 187 Dunkeld Cathedral 322 Elgin Cathedral 235 Fortrose Cathedral 305 Glasgow Cathedral , 120 Iona Abbey 288, 222 Mackintosh Church 115 Mansfield Place Church 69 Rosslyn Chapel 99, 100-1, Round Church 264 St Clement s Church 393 St Giles Cathedral 51-2 St John s Kirk St Machar s Cathedral 225 St Magnus Cathedral 402 St Nicholas Church 224 Clearances, the 353, Cliad 290 climate 18, 27-8 climbing Ben Challum 252 Ben Lomond 245 Ben Nevis 339 Cobbler 247 Isle of Skye 377 Kinlochleven 334 Meallfuarvonie 306 Morrone 320 Old Man of Hoy 411 Prince Albert s Cairn 319 Sgurr of Eigg 346 Cobbler 247 Cock of Arran 270 Cockbridge Tomintoul road 234 Coigach Coire Lagan 381 Coldbackie Coldingham Coll 290-1, 281 Colonsay , 263 Compass Hill 347 Comrie 206 Conic Hill 245 Connel 291 Coral Beaches 384 Corrie Fee 322 Corryvreckan Whirlpool 268 Cowal 254 crafts 169, 280, 384, 385, 425 Craigendarroch 319 Craigievar 205 Craignure Crail Cramond crannogs Creag Choinnich 320 credit cards 460 Crianlarich Crieff Crinan Canal 258 crofting 353 Croick 354 Cromarty 305 Crossapol 290 Cruach Ardrain 246 Cuillin Hills 381 Culloden Battlefield 301 Culross culture Culzean Castle 161 curling 449 currency 18, 21 customs regulations cycling 456-7, 465, see also mountain biking 4 Abbeys Cycle Route 150 Arran 270 Bute 257 Cairngorms Callander 250 Crinan Canal 258, 259 Edinburgh 70 Glasgow 116 Glen Lyon 331 Great Glen Way 306, 336 Killin 252 Loch Katrine Circuit 248 Loch Leven Heritage Trail 203 Oban Orkney 402 Royal Deeside 319, 320 Shetland 416 Strathpeffer 352 Tweed Cycle Route 150 D dangers, see safety Davaar Cave Dean Village 67 debit cards 460 Deep Sea World 187 departure tax 463 dinosaurs 380 disabilities, travellers with 461 discount cards 458, 467 distilleries 237, 265 Aberfeldy Distillery 328 Ardnamurchan 340 Bladnoch Distillery 172 Blair Athol Distillery 324 Edradour Distillery 324 Famous Grouse Experience 206 Glengoyne Distillery 136 Glenmorangie 353 Highland Park 402 Isle of Arran 273 Isle of Harris Jura Distillery 267 Kingsbarns Distillery 196 Oban Distillery 275 Old Pulteney 358 Shetland Distillery Company 425 Springbank 261 Talisker Distillery 382 diving Oban 277 Scapa Flow 412 Shetland 422 St Abbs 153 Dog Falls 304 dog sledding 311 Doghouse Merchant City 22 Dollar 186 dolphins 13, 234, 298, 305, 13 Dores Inn 308 Dornoch Doune (Stirling Region) Doune (Knoydart Peninsula) 344 Doune Castle 186, 205, 204 Doyle, Sir Arthur Conan 445 drinking & nightlife 15, 22, 25, 441-3, 15, see also pubs, whisky driving licences 465 driving tours Fife coast 189, 189 Galloway Forest Park Glasgow 116 Loch Ness 302, 302 North Coast , 360 Northeast Scotland 231, 231 Northern Highlands & Islands 369, 369 Southern Highlands & Islands 253, 253 Southern Scotland 145, 145 Drumnadrochit Dryburgh Abbey 144 Drymen 245 Duff House 238 Dufftown Duirinish Dumfries 162-5, 163 Dumfries House 161 Dun I 288 Dunadd 259 Dunbeath 357 Dunblane Dundee , Dunfermline Dunkeld Dunnet Head 359 Dunoon Dunstaffnage Castle 205, 291, Dunvegan 384 Durness Dutchman s Cap 287 E Ealaghol Earlsferry 199 Earthquake House 206 Easdale Island 280 East Neuk Edinburgh 11, 40, 44-97, 45, 48-9, 11, 80-1 accommodation 44, 74-9 activities 70 children, travel with 68 climate 44 drinking & nightlife emergencies 94 entertainment 91-3 festivals & events 72, 74, 75 food 44, highlights 45 history 46-7, 62, 71 internet access 95 internet resources 95-6 maps 95 medical services 95 New Town 62, 64-5 Old Town 47, 52-3 INDEX C- E

5 474 INDEX E- H Edinburgh continued planning 44, 46 postal services 95 shopping 93-4 sights tourist information 95 tours 70-2 travel seasons 44 travel to/from 96 travel within 96-7 walks 72-3, 73 Edinburgh Castle 47, 50, 80 Edinburgh Festival Fringe 28, 75 Edinburgh Zoo 69 Edzell 221 Eigg Eilean Donan Castle 375 electricity 458 Elgin Elgol Elie 199 Ellenabeich 280 emergencies 19 Enchanted Forest 324 environmental issues Eshaness Eskdale etiquette 21 Ettrick Bay 257 events, see festivals & events Evie 409 exchange rates 19 Eyemouth F Fair Isle 425 Fairy Glen 305, 385 falconry 199 Falkirk Wheel 185 Falkland 188, 190 Falls of Foyers 308 Falls of Shin Faraid Head 363 festivals & events 24-5, 27-8, see also arts festivals, film festivals, food & drink festivals, literary festivals, music festivals, sporting events Hogmanay 233 Riding of the Marches 139 Scottish Traditional Boat Festival 238 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Spirit of Speyside 237 Up Helly Aa 417 Fetlar 426 Fife film 102, 448 film festivals 74, 116 film locations 444 Fingal s Cave 287 Fionnphort 287 fishing 24, 457 Arbroath 218 Cairngorms 310 Grantown-on-Spey 314 Killin 252 Loch Earn 206 Loch Tay 330 Newton Stewart 171 Southern Highlands & Islands 255 Flannan Isles 391 Floors Castle 149 food 21, 23, food & drink festivals Edinburgh Food Festival 74 Fèis Ìle 263 Scottish Real Ale Festival 74 Stonehaven Midsummer Beer Happening 233 Tarbert Seafood Festival 260 football 449 Forfar 216 Forsinard 362 Fort Augustus Fort George 301 Fort William Fortingall Fortrose 305 Forvie National Nature Reserve 232 Foyers 308 G Gairloch Gallery of Modern Art 107, 121 Galloway Forest Park Game of Thrones 186 Garenin 390 gay travellers 90, 128, 459 geography 450 geology 450 George St 63-4 Georgian House 64 Gigha Gilmerton Cove 69 Gladstone s Land 51 Glamis Castle 205, 218, 204 Glasgow 13, 40, , 104-5, 117, 13, accommodation 103, activities children, travel with 125 City Centre 106-7, climate 103 drinking & nightlife entertainment festivals & events 116, 118 food 103, highlights history 106 internet access 133 medical services 133 planning 103, 106 shopping sights tourist information 133 tours 116 travel seasons 103 travel to/from 133 travel within 134 West End , 114 Glasgow Botanic Gardens Glasgow Cathedral , 120 Glasgow School of Art 22, Glasgow Science Centre 111 Glen Affric Glen Clova 321-2, 2 Glen Coe 15, 331-3, 15 Glen Etive 331 Glen Feshie 313 Glen Harris 346 Glen Lui 321 Glen Lyon 331 Glen Nevis Glen Shiel 375 Glen Torridon Glencoe Lochan 332 Glencoe Massacre 332 Glencoe (village) Gleneagles 199 Glenelg 375 Glenesk 322 Glenfarclas 237 Glenfiddich 237 Glenfinnan Glenlivet Estate 318 Glenuig Inn 342 Goatfell 270 golden eagles 452 Golden Road 392 golf 14, 37-42, 449 British Golf Museum 191 Edinburgh 70 Loch Lomond 241 Machrihanish 261 museums 191 planning St Andrews 14, 190-3, 14, 31 Turnberry Golspie 356 Gourock 135 Grantown-on-Spey Grassmarket 62 Great Bernera Great Cumbrae Great Glen Way 306, 336 Greenock 135 Gretna Gretna Green Greyfriars Bobby Statue Greyfriars Kirkyard 59 Grierson, John 448 H Haddo House 232 haggis 441 Handa Island 365 Harris Hawick 147 health 458 Helabhal Bheag 384 Helensburgh 247 Helmsdale Hermitage Castle 149, 205, 204 Highland Clearances 353, Highland Folk Museum 315, 60 Highland Games 255, 277, 303, 320, 382, 449 Highland Perthshire Highlands, see Central Highlands, Northern Highlands & Islands, Southern Highlands & Islands hiking, see walking Hillswick Hirta 395 history Act of Union Battle of Culloden 301 Clearances 353, devolution 437 Enlightenment 436 Glencoe Massacre 332 Industrial Revolution Jacobites 435, 436 Mary, Queen of Scots 148, 303, 432-4, 435 Picts 431 Renaissance 432 Romans 430-1

6 475 Wars of Independence 433 WWII 436, 437 hitching 466 Hogh Bay 290 Hogmanay 28, 76, 233 holidays 460 Holy Island 275 Holyrood 55, 58 Horse Shoe 128, 24 House of Dun 221 Hoy , 4 Hunterian Art Gallery 112 Hunterian Museum 112 Hushinish 392 hydroelectrics 291 I Inchcailloch 246 Inchcolm 98-9 Inchconnachan 246 Inchmurrin 246 Innerpeffray Library 207 insurance internet access 459 internet resources 19, 77 Inverarnan 245 Inverie 344 Inverness 42, , 294-5, 297 accommodation 293, climate 293 drinking & nightlife 300 entertainment 300 food 293, highlights sights 296 tourist information 300 tours 298 travel seasons 293 travel to/from 300 travel within 301 Inversnaid 245 Iona Iona Abbey 288, 222 Irvine 156 Island I Vow 246 islands 16, 26, 223, 10-11, 16, 26, 222-3, see also individual locations Islay 262-7, 263 Isle of Eigg Isle of May 197 Isle of Noss Isle of Rum Isle of Skye 11, 35-6, , 376, 10-11, 26 Isle of Whithorn 173 Isleornsay 380 itineraries J Jedburgh John Knox House 54 John O Groats 359 Jura 267-9, 263 K kayaking 24, 241, 365, 373, 421 Argyll 259 Arran 271 Gigha 261 Isle of Skye 377 Loch Lomond 241 Loch Morlich 313 Loch Ness 306 Loch Tay 330 Lochinver 365 Oban 277, 280 Plockton 373 Road to the Isles 342 Shetland 421 Kelpies, the 185 Kelso Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum 112, 61 Kenmore Kerrera Kibble Palace 113, Kilchoan 340 Kilchoman 265 Killiecrankie 325 Killin Kilmartin Glen 259 Kiloran Bay 269 Kincraig 313 King s Cave 274 Kingussie Kinloch Castle 346 Kinloch Rannoch 327 Kinlochleven Kinross 203 Kintyre Kirkcaldy 188 Kirkcudbright Kirkoswald 161 Kirkwall 402-6, 403 Kirriemuir Knoydart peninsula Kyle of Lochalsh 374 Kyleakin 378 Kylerhea 378 Kylesku 365 L Ladhar Bheinn 344 Lagavulin 265 Lagg 274 Lairg Lairig Ghru 321 Lamb Holm 406 Lamlash Lanark Langholm 167 language 18, 445, 459, Laphroaig 265 Largs legal matters 459 Leith 67-8 Leodhais 388 Lerwick , 418 lesbian travellers 90, 128, 459 Lewis 388 Lews Castle 22 lighthouses 233 Liathach 371 Linlithgow 102 Linn of Dee 321 Lismore 292, 16 literary festivals 27, 28, 75, 143, 158 literature 146, 160, 445, 444-6, see also books live music 91-2, Livingstone, David 136 Loch Achray Loch Affric 304 Loch Awe 291, 317, 316 Loch Coruisk 381 Loch Earn 206 Loch Etive 291 Loch Finlaggan 267 Loch Fyne 258 Loch Glencoul 365 Loch Katrine 248, Loch Ken 167 Loch Lee 322 Loch Leven 203 Loch Leven Heritage Trail 22 Loch Lomond 12, 241-6, 244, 12 Loch Maree 371 Loch Morlich 313 Loch Ness 305-9, 317 Loch Ness monster 306, 307 Loch Rannoch Loch Tay 330 Loch Tummel 327-8, Lochcarron 373 Lochinver Lochnagar 319 Lochranza 273-4, 222 lochs 317, Lost Valley 332 Lunga 287 Luss 243 Lybster 357 M Macallan 237 MacAlpin, Kenneth 431, 432 Macbeth 432 MacDiarmid, Hugh 445 Macduff 238 Machair Way 396 Machars Machrie Moor Stone Circle 274 Machrihanish 261 Mackintosh, Charles Rennie 112, 113, 247, 448 Mackintosh House 112 MacLeod s Maidens 384 MacLeod s Tables 384 Maid of the Loch 243 Mallaig maps 95, 460 Mar Lodge Estate 321 maritime museums 151, 156, , 410, 425 markets 296 Mary, Queen of Scots 148, 303, 432-4, 435 May Princess 197 McCaig s Tower McCartney, Paul 262 Mealista 391 measures 456 Meigle 207 Melrose Mendelssohn, Felix 287 Mercat Cross 224 Mey 359 Miavaig 391 midges 383, 459 Millarochy Bay 245 Miller, Hugh 305 Minginish mobile phones 18, Monarch of the Glen 315 money 18, 19, 21, 458, 460 Monty Python and the Holy Grail 186 Morar Moray Morrone 320 motorcycle travel 464, 465-6, see also driving tours Mount Stuart 257 mountain biking 24, 171, 356, 457, see also cycling 7stanes 139, 166, 171 Arran 270 Cairngorms 310, 312 Glenlivet 318 Glentrool 171 INDEX H- M

7 476 INDEX M- P mountain biking continued Killin 252 Laggan Wolftrax 315 Loch Ken 168 Loch Ness 306 Mabie Forest Park 166 Nevis Range 339 Peebles 139 mountains 317, Mt Keen 322 Muck 348 Muckle Flugga 425 Mull 281-7, 281 Mull of Kintyre 262 Museum of Lead Mining 164 museums 25, 61, 60-1, see also art galleries, maritime museums Arnol Blackhouse 390 Black Watch Museum 200 British Golf Museum 191 Burns House Discovery Point 212 Glasgow Science Centre 111 Gordon Highlanders Museum 225 Grampian Transport Museum 234 Groam House Museum 305 Gunsgreen House Halliwell s House Museum 146 Hamilton Toy Collection 250 Hawick Museum & Art Gallery 147 Highland Folk Museum 315, 60 Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum 112 Linlithgow Canal Centre 102 McManus Galleries 212 Museum of Childhood 53-4 Museum of Edinburgh 55 Museum of Islay Life 266 Museum of Lead Mining 164 Museum of the Isles 379 National Museum of Scotland 58-9, 81 National War Museum of Scotland 51 People s Palace 110 Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 People s Story 55 Queensferry Museum 98 Riverside Museum 111 Robert Burns Birthplace Museum 159 Scotch Whisky Experience 51 Scottish Fisheries Museum 197 Scottish Football Museum 115 Scottish Lighthouse Museum 233 St Mungo s Museum of Religious Life & Art 110 St Vigeans Museum 218 Staffin Dinosaur Museum 380 Surgeons Hall Museums 69 Taigh Chearsabhagh 394 V&A Museum of Design 212 Verdant Works 212 Víkingar! 155 Wick Heritage Centre 358 music music festivals 24-5, 24 Arran Folk Festival 272 Celtic Connections 27, 116 Edinburgh International Jazz & Blues Festival 74 Fèis Ìle 263 Groove Loch Ness 307 Hebridean Celtic Festival 388 Highlands & Islands Music & Dance Festival 277 Islay Jazz Festival 263 Jura Music Festival 269 Kirkcudbright Jazz Festival 169 Mendelssohn on Mull 282 Mull Music Festival 282 Mull of Kintyre Music Festival 262 Orkney Folk Festival 410 Shetland Folk Festival 417 Stonehaven Folk Festival 233 Tarbert Music Festival 260 T in the Park 28, 196 True North Wickerman Festival 169 N Nairn 301, 303 National Museum of Scotland 58-9, 81 national parks 451, see also nature reserves National War Museum of Scotland 51 nature reserves Alladale Wilderness Reserve 354 Ben Lawers National Nature Reserve 330 Craigellachie Nature Reserve 310 Forvie National Nature Reserve 232 Glen Affric Nature Reserve 304 Handa Island Nature Reserve 365 Hermaness Nature Reserve 425 Isle of May 197 Loch Gruinart Nature Reserve 266 Lumbister RSPB Reserve 424 Noup Head 414 St Abbs & Eyemouth Voluntary Marine Reserve 153 Neist Point 384 Neptune s Staircase 337 Ness Islands 296 Ness of Brodgar 409 New Abbey New Lanark newspapers 95, 456 Newton Stewart Newtonmore North Atlantic Drift 284 North Berwick 99, 102 North Coast , 360 North Harris 392 North Ronaldsay 415 North Uist northeast Scotland 41, , 210 accommodation 209 climate 209 food 209 highlights 210 travel seasons 209 Northern Highlands & Islands 14, 42, , 350-1, 14 accommmodation 349 climate 349 food 349 highlights travel seasons 349 O Oban 275-9, 276 Old Course 191 Old Man of Storr 385 opening hours 19, 460 Orkney , 400-1, 223 accommodation 398 climate 398 food 398 highlights tours 399 travel seasons 398 travel to/from 399 travel within Orkneyinga Saga 413 Orwell, George 267 ospreys 314 otters 346, 452 Our Dynamic Earth 58 Our Lady of the Isles 396 Outer Hebrides , 376 Outlander 185, 186 oysters 258 P painting Paisley Palace of Holyroodhouse 55, 58 Papa Stour 422 Papa Westray 415 Papay 415 parks & gardens Achamore Gardens 261 Benmore Botanic Garden 254 Botanic Gardens (Glasgow) Castle Kennedy Gardens 173 Colonsay House Gardens Dundee Law 213 Dunkeld House Grounds 323 Explorers Garden 324 Inverewe Garden 370 Ness Islands 296 Princes Street Gardens 63 Queen Elizabeth Forest Park 249 Royal Botanic Garden (Edinburgh) 68-9 Pass of Brander 291 Pass of Killiecrankie 325 Paxton House 152 Peat Inn 195 Peebles 139, 142 Pennan 236 People s Palace People s Story 55 Perth , 201 Perth Festival of the Arts 202

8 477 Perthshire 14, , 14 phone codes 19, 461 Pictish stones 219 Aberlemno Stones 220 Farr Stone 361 Groam House Museum 305 Portmahomack 354 Pilgrims Way 150 Pitlochry Pittenweem 198 planning 20-1 basics budgeting 19 calendar of events 27-8 highlights 8-9, 8-9 internet resources 19 itineraries repeat visitors 22 Scotland s regions 40-2 travel seasons 18, 27-8 Plockton 373-4, 7, 31 poetry, see literature politics 102-4, 437 population 103 Port Askaig 267 Port Charlotte Port Ellen 264 Port Righ Portmahomack 354 Portnahaven Portpatrick 175 Portree Portsoy 238 Potter, Beatrix 323 Princes Street 62-3 Provand s Lordship 110 public holidays 460 pubs 25, 89, 442, 24, see also drinking & nightlife, whisky puffins 426, 17, Q Queensferry 98 Queensferry Crossing 22 Quiraing 385 R Raasay 386 radio 95, 456 rafting 24, 329 Rannoch Moor 327, 328 Real Mary King s Close 53 red deers 452 Red Point 370 red squirrels 452 Reef Beach 391 reindeer 313 religion 103 Rest & Be Thankful 254 Rhinns of Galloway Riding of the Marches 139 Rispond 363 River Dee Riverside Museum 111, 60 Road to the Isles 341 road trips, see driving tours Rob Roy 245, 248, 252 Robert the Bruce 142, 171, 182, 187, 291 rock climbing, see climbing Rocks of Solitude 221 Rosemarkie 305 Ross of Mull 286 Rosslyn Chapel 99, 100-1, Rothesay Rothiemurchus Estate Rousay Rowardennan 245 Royal Botanic Garden 68-9 Royal Deeside Royal Mile 47, 50-5 Royal Scottish Academy 63 Royal Yacht Britannia 68 rugby 27, 142, 449 ruins, see also archaeological sites, standing stones Arbroath Abbey 218 Beauly Priory 303 Castle Coeffin 292 Castle Sinclair Girnigoe 358 Clickimin Broch 417 Dunfermline Abbey & Palace 187 Earl s Palace (Birsay) 409 Earl s Palace (Kirkwall) 402 Inchmahome Priory 248 Invermark Castle 322 Kildalton Chapel 264 Old Wick Castle 358 Oronsay Priory 269 Ruthven Barracks 315 St Andrews Cathedral 190 St Blane s Chapel 257 Yell Windhouse 424 Rum Ruthwell 165 S safety hitching 466 road 466 Salen 340 salmon 330 sand dunes 232 Sanday Sandwick Sandwood Bay 366 Sango Sands 363 Sannox 273 Scalloway 421 Scalpsie Bay 257 Scapa Flow 411, 412 scenic drives, see driving tours scenic flights 241 scenic railways 221, 234, 310, 312 Schiehallion 317, 327, 317 Scone Palace 200 Scotch whisky, see whisky Scotland s Secret Bunker 198 Scott Monument 63 Scott, Sir Walter 63, 144, 146, 331, 380, 444 Scottish Dolphin Centre 234 Scottish Lighthouse Museum 233 Scottish Maritime Museum 156 Scottish National Gallery 63 Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art 67 Scottish National Portrait Gallery 65-6 Scottish Parliament Building 55 Scottish wildcats 452 Scourie 365 Scrabster seals 292, 335 Seil Selkirk Sharmanka Kinetic Theatre 107 Shetland , accommodation 398, 420 climate 398 food 398 highlights tourist information 416 travel seasons 398 travel to/from 416 travel within 416 shopping 25 Skara Brae 17, 408-9, 17 skiing 24, , 333, skimming 280 Skipness Skye , 376 Sleat Smailholm Tower 205, 204 Smith, Adam 188 smoking 456 Smoo Cave 363 South Harris South Lanarkshire South Ronaldsay Southern Highlands & Islands 41, , 240 accommodation 239 climate 239 food 239 highlights 240 travel seasons 239 Southern Scotland 41, , accommodation 138 climate 138 food 138 highlights planning 138 travel seasons 138 Southern Upland Way 150 Spar Cave 380 Spark, Dame Muriel 445 Spey Bay 234 Speyside Cooperage 237 Speyside Way 35 Spirit of Speyside 237 sport 27, 92-3, 131, 448-9, see also individual sports sporting events Ba, the 404 Étape Caledonia 324 Highland Games 255, 277, 303, 320, 382, 449 Isle of Jura Fell Race 269 Mull Rally 282 Open Championship 193 St Andrews Highland Games 193 Tiree Wave Classic 289 UCI Mountain Bike World Cup 336 West Highland Yachting Week 277 World Stone-Skimming Championships 280 St Abbs St Andrew Sq 64-6 St Andrews 14, 190-6, 192, 14, 31 St Cuthbert s Way 150 St Fillans 206 St Kilda 395 St Margaret s Hope 406 St Monans St Mungo s Museum of Religious Life & Art 110 INDEX P- S

9 478 INDEX S- Z St Ninian s Isle 422 Staffa 287 standing stones 172, 259, 274, 390, 394, 408, see also archaeological sites, ruins Stevenson, Robert Louis 52, 98, 175, Stirling , 179 Stirling Castle 177-8, Stirling region Stone of Destiny 62, 200 Stonehaven Stornoway Stranraer Strathblane Strathdon Strathglass Strathnaver 362 Strathpeffer Stromness Strontian 340 Sumburgh surfing 24, 153, 225, 289, Surgeons Hall Museums 69 swimming 70, 233 Syre 362 T T in the Park 28, 196, 24 Tain Talisker Bay 382 Tarbert (Kintyre peninsula) Tarbert (Harris) Tarbet 243 taxes 463 Tay Bridge Disaster 213 Tay Forest Park 327 Taynuilt 291 telephone codes 19, 461 telephone services 18, Telford, Thomas 280 theatre 92, 131 theme parks 314 Threave Castle 167 Three Sisters 331 Thurso tides 268, 284 Tighnabruaich 255 time 18, 461 tipping 21 Tiree , 281 Tobermory Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 Tomich 304 Tomintoul 318 Tongue Torridon tourist information 461 tours 466 Traigh Mor 397 Traigh Uige 391 train travel costs 464, discount cards 467 passes 467 to/from Scotland 19, 464 within Scotland 22, Traquair House 143 travel to/from Scotland 19, travel within Scotland 19, trekking, see walking Troon 157 Trossachs, the , 244 Trotternish Peninsula Turnberry TV 456 tweed 393 Tweed Cycle Route 150 Tyndrum U Uamh Fraing 347 Uisken 287 Ullapool Unst Up Helly Aa 417 Urquhart Castle 307, 317 V V&A Museum of Design 22 visas 18, volunteering 462 W Wade s Bridge 328 walking 24, 25, Steps 305 Affric-Kintail Way 304 Arbroath 218 Arran 270 Beaver Detective Trail 260 Beinn Eighe Mountain Trail 371 Ben Nevis 13, 13 Borders Abbeys Way 150 Bracklinn Falls 250 Cairngorm Mountain 312 Cairngorms 36 Callander Crags 250 Cateran Trail 208 Chain Walk 199 Corryvreckan Viewpoint 268 Craigendarroch 319 Creag Choinnich 320 Crinan Canal 258, 259 Cuillin Hills 381 Duirinish peninsula 384 Edinburgh 70 Eigg 347 Evans Walk 268 Falls of Foyers 308 Fife Coastal Path 193 Five Sisters of Kintail 375 Giant s Graves 274 Glasgow 116 Gleann Lichd 375 Glen Lyon 331 Glencoe Lochan 332 Glenesk 322 Great Glen Way 306, 336 Hermitage, the 323 Isle of Skye 35-6, 377 Jock s Road Jura Kerrera Killiecrankie 325 Killin 252 King s Cave 274 Kinloch Rannoch 327 Kintyre Way 259 Loch Leven Heritage Trail 22, 203 Machair Way 396 Mar Lodge Estate 321 Millennium Forest Path 245 Morven 319 Mull 283 New Lanark 154 Paps of Jura 268 Pilgrims Way 150 Rannoch Moor 328 Rob Roy Way 241 short walks 35 Southern Upland Way 150 Speyside Way 35, 318 St Cuthbert s Way 150 Stac Pollaidh 367 Three Lochs Way 241 West Highland Way 12, 34-5, 241, 334, 12 Wallace, William 136, , 183, 432, 433 Waterstein Head 384 weather 18, 27-8 websites 19, 77 weights 456 West End Festival 28 West Highland Way 12, 34-5, 241, 334, 12 Westray whale watching 280, 283, 284, 343, 370 whisky 15, 442-3, 15, see also distilleries festivals 237, 263 museums 51, 237 white-water rafting 24, 329 Whithorn 173 Whiting Bay 274 Wick Wigtown wildlife 451, 452 wildlife reserves, see also nature reserves Balranald RSPB Reserve 394 Gairloch Marine Wildlife Centre & Cruises 370 Loch Druidibeg National Nature Reserve 396 Loch of the Lowes Wildlife Centre 323 wildlife watching 13, 451, 452, see also birdwatching Aberdeen 225 dolphins 13, 234, 298, 305, 13 Fort William 335 Galloway Forest Park 170 Highland Wildlife Park 313 Kerrera 279 Mull 282 Oban 280 Rannoch Moor 328 Shetland 426 whales 280, 283, 284, 343, 370 windsurfing 289 wineries 406 women travellers 462 work 462 Y Yell 424 Z ziplining 139, 249 zoos 69

10 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 479 Map Legend Sights Beach Bird Sanctuary Buddhist Castle/Palace Christian Confucian Hindu Islamic Jain Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Ruin Shinto Sikh Taoist Winery/Vineyard Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Other Sight Activities, Courses & Tours Bodysurfing Diving Canoeing/Kayaking Course/Tour Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Skiing Snorkelling Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity Sleeping Eating Sleeping Camping Eating Drinking & Nightlife Drinking & Nightlife Cafe Entertainment Entertainment Shopping Shopping Information Bank Embassy/Consulate Hospital/Medical Internet Police Post Office Telephone Toilet Tourist Information Other Information Geographic Beach Gate Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village Transport Airport Border crossing Bus Cable car/funicular Cycling Ferry Metro station Monorail Parking Petrol station S-Bahn/Subway station Taxi T-bane/Tunnelbana station Train station/railway Tram Tube station U-Bahn/Underground station Other Transport Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed road Road under construction Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian overpass Walking Tour Walking Tour detour Path/Walking Trail Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall Hydrography River, Creek Intermittent River Canal Water Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Reef Areas Airport/Runway Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Glacier Mudflat Park/Forest Sight (Building) Sportsground Swamp/Mangrove

11 OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end broke but inspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony s belief that a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse. OUR WRITERS Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Neil Wilson Neil was born in Scotland and has lived there most of his life. Based in Perthshire, he has been a full-time writer since 1988, working on more than 80 guidebooks for various publishers, including the Lonely Planet guides to Scotland, England, Ireland and Prague. An outdoors enthusiast since childhood, Neil is an active hill-walker, mountain-biker, sailor, snowboarder, fly-fisher and rock-climber, and has climbed and tramped in four continents, including ascents of Jebel Toubkal in Morocco, Mount Kinabalu in Borneo, the Old Man of Hoy in Scotland s Orkney Islands and the Northwest Face of Half Dome in California s Yosemite Valley. Andy Symington Andy has written or worked on over a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and other publishing companies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines and websites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Andy, from Australia, moved to Northern Spain many years ago. When he s not off with a backpack in some far-flung corner of the world, he can probably be found watching the tragically poor local football side or tasting local wines after a long walk in the nearby mountains. Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN th edition April 2017 ISBN Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs as indicated Printed in China Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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