Freewheeling. From Bagnacavallo down to the Adriatic A grand tour of the loveliest towns of Romagna and the unspoilt nature of the Po estuary

Transcription

1 Freewheeling From Bagnacavallo down to the Adriatic A grand tour of the loveliest towns of Romagna and the unspoilt nature of the Po estuary 7 CYCLE ROUTES to discover lower Romagna a feast for the eyes every moment of the way Municipal council of Bagnacavallo Province of Ravenna

2 ENJOYING LOWER ROMAGNA EVERY MOMENT OF THE WAY FREEWHEELING from Bagnacavallo to the Adriatic is a guide for those who love holidays in the open air. It contains advice and practical information for a series of cycle tours designed to introduce visitors to the very best of the art and nature of the heart of Lower Romagna, or Romagna d Este as it was known during the reign of the dukes of Ferrara from the 14th to the 16th centuries. The plain of Lower Romagna stretches between hills of Faenza and the Adriatic, just a few miles from the coast on one side and the foothills of the Romagnol Apennines on the other. To really appreciate the environmental and artistic treasures the area has to offer, one of the best ways is by bike. It s a region best enjoyed at an easy pace, along river banks, trails and the loveliest stretches of the Po delta. The broad and fertile plain is a seemingly endless expanse of farmland, vineyards, orchards and watercourses, and everywhere it s dotted with churches and country chapels, villas and farmhouses, castles and palazzos. The seasons change here with a spectacular colourfulness. In spring the landscape is hazed with the blossom of fruit trees and the air is effervescent with migrating birds returning from their wintering grounds; summer is radiant with warm colours, in the autumn months the atmosphere is drenched in the smells of harvest, and in winter the frost-mantled landscape takes on an eerie, almost unreal aspect. Lower Romagna is a place of unmatchable hospitality where respect for nature is a way of life, whose art and culture, good food and fine wine are its most valuable assets. This guide proposes seven different cycle tours. Each route is accompanied by useful information and detailed road maps which bring to life the heart of Lower Romagna as you follow them in an unmediated enjoyment of the sights and sounds and smells every moment of the way. Route 01_ THE MANY COLOURS OF ROMAGNA Circular route: Bagnacavallo - Boncellino - Traversara - Bagnacavallo Route 02_ THE MARSH COUNTRY OF VILLANOVA Circular route: Bagnacavallo - Boncellino - Traversara - Villanova - Villa Prati - Bagnacavallo Route 03_ IN SEARCH OF THE OLD ROMAGNA COUNTRYSIDE Route: Bagnacavallo - Villa Prati - Rossetta Route 04_ ON THE TRAIL OF IL PASSATORE Circular route: Bagnacavallo - Boncellino - Russi - Bagnacavallo Route 05_ CANAL AND WATERMILL TRAIL Route: Bagnacavallo - Lugo - Bagnara di Romagna Route 06_ ART AND NATURE TOUR Route: Bagnacavallo - Fusignano - Alfonsine - Boscoforte peninsula Route 07_ DOWN THE LAMONE TOWARDS THE SEA Cycle route from Bagnacavallo to the Adriatic along the banks of the Lamone _ Information fot visitors _ Bike hire _ Connections and distances _ Where to sleep Page 6 Page 12 Page 20 Page 24 Page 34 Page 42 Page 48 Page 54 Page 55 Page 56

3 MILANO FIRENZE ROMA VENEZIA BOLOGNA RAVENNA FORLI RIMINI < FERRARA Fiume Reno S.S. 16 Valli di Comacchio VENEZIA > Conselice Fiume Santerno Alfonsine S.S. 309 Fiume Senio S p i a g g e d i R a v e n n a Fusignano S.P Massa Lombarda S. Agata S.S. Fiume Lamone S.S. 309 dir. Bagnara di Romagna Bagnacavallo Lugo Cotignola < BOLOGNA RIMINI - ANCONA > Russi A 14 S.P Fiume Montone RAVENNA IMOLA S.S. 16 E 55 S.P S.S. 67 E 45 S.S. 71 FAENZA A 14 Fiume Bevano Fiume Savio RIMINI > < FIRENZE S.S. 9 FORLÌ

4 This is a route with some beautiful scenery on the way, and one which gives you a real feel for the atmosphere and history of the countryside around Bagnacavallo. Pedalling along paths where silence reigns and the only noises are birdsong and the sounds of country life, it takes little effort of the imagination to be transported back to the sunny Romagna, gentle country celebrated by Pascoli. Whichever way you turn, nature is all around on the river bank, in country lanes which thread through orchards and vineyards and fields of wheat and sugar beet. The colours change depending on the season: in spring the dominant hues are the pink and white blossom of peach, apple, pear and cherry trees; in summer the wheat fields are a vivid yellow and the vegetation an intense green; autumn ignites the landscape in an endless variety of burnished golds and russets; and in winter, the fresh brown soil of the newly-ploughed fields is set off by the soft green of the new wheat and the searing orange of basket-willows. And all this countryside is dotted with farms, farmhouses and outbuildings, many of them now rebuilt complete with the wood-fired ovens formerly used for baking bread and cakes. ROUTE 1 THE MANY COLOURS OF ROMAGNA Departure: Bagnacavallo Circular route: Bagnacavallo - Boncellino - Traversara - Bagnacavallo Length: km 19,65 Difficulty: low Departure point for this route is piazza della Libertà in the heart of the historic centre of Bagnacavallo. 1 From here, take via Matteotti, 2 and when you come to the roundabout turn right onto the cycle lane which runs along via Di Vittorio. Follow the cycle lane as far as the junction with the San Vitale highway. At the traffic lights the cycle lane ends. Cross the junction and head into via Boncellino. On the other side of the level crossing, a short detour on via Antiche Terme to the right will take you to the Verna Mario winery. 3 Back on via Boncellino, head straight on. At the junction with via Galavotti, bear left on via Boncellino 4 and then turn right into via Reda. Follow the signs for via Reda after the motorway bridge. From here the route enters the open countryside. At the junction with via Lame keep left and take via Ponte Nuovo, then turn left onto via Malpeli. At the junction with via Boncellino turn right and keep straight on. On the right you ll see Casa Baldini 5 and La Rondine study farm; 6 on the left is another farm, Ballardini Ricci. 7 At the intersection with via Sottofiume Boncellino turn right and then, a little way on, left onto via Argine Lamone. 8 At the end of the ramp, where the asphalt road continues on the right, turn left along the river embankment. Following the fringes of the Lamone 9 you ll see the village of Boncellino on the left. Then, a few kilometres on, you come to the Muraglione waterfall. 10 At this point, when you get near a brick-coloured house turn right off the riverside road* onto via Sottofiume Boncellino, where on your right you ll see the Zini Aliero farm. 11 At the junction with the San Vitale highway, head straight on along via Torri. On your left you ll see the Ercolani Tower. 12 Arriving in the village of Traversara, turn left into via Centro Traversara. On the other side of the village, before you reach the cemetery, turn right along via Longanesi and you re back in the peace and silence of the countryside. Continue along via Longanesi, which veers left at one point; ignore Carraia Zorli straight ahead. After covering the last stretch of via Longanesi on the banks of the Fosso Vecchio canal, turn right into via Vecchia Traversara and then, a little further on, right again into via Carraia Biondina. Follow this road until you reach the junction with via Cogollo. On the other side of the junction, rejoin via Carraia Biondina until the Naviglio cycle lane: here, turn left into via Destra Canale Inferiore. Before arriving back in Bagnacavallo, you ll see the Liverani Falco farm on your left. 13 Go straight 6 7

5 ahead until you come to the wooden bridge. Cross the bridge then turn left onto the cycle lane. A couple of hundred metres further along you ll find yourself back in Bagnacavallo. Keep straight on and, at the third roundabout, turn right into via Matteotti and you re back where you started from in piazza della Libertà. * From spring 2006 it will be possible to follow the bank of the Lamone as far as Marina Romea (see: Down the Lamone towards the sea, page 48), meaning you won t have to divert onto via Sottofiume Boncellino but can continue along the river bank as far as the bridge of Traversara. From here, go down and turn left into via Centro Traversara, where you rejoin the route as indicated above. By cutting down to the flood bed of the Lamone you can avoid the level crossing with the busy San Vitale main road (SP253). WHAT TO SEE 1. Piazza della Libertà Overlooking piazza della Libertà is the neoclassical town hall, built in 1791 to a design by Cosimo Morelli. Next door is the elegant Goldoni theatre. Opened in 1845, the interior is sumptuously decorated with stuccoes and frescoes. The impressive tempera backdrop by Bolognese painter Antonio Muzzi is a typical example of the 19th-century vogue for drama-drenched history painting. On the west side of the piazza are Palazzo Vecchio (originally dating from the 12th and 13th centuries but restored on several occasions since) and the town tower. Built in the first half of the 13th century, the tower has been rebuilt several times over the course of the centuries. Internally it s divided into three storeys. It was one of the first of such towers to be fitted with a clock, during the domination of the Este dynasty in the early 16th century. Its bottom level was used as a prison from the 17th to 19th centuries, and since then its three storeys have been known as Inferno, Purgatory and Paradise after Dante s Divine Comedy. One of the tower s most (in)famous inmates was the bandit Stefano Pelloni, nom de guerre Il Passatore ( The Ferryman ), who was imprisoned here in One curious feature: the large nails driven into the wall at the base of the tower were used as a kind of lost-and-found office. People finding lost items would hang them from the nails for their rightful owners to reclaim them. 2. Via Matteotti - Palazzo Capra On the left before the roundabout stands the 17th-century Palazzo Papini, later renamed Palazzo Capra. Rising from a flared basement, the façade of the palace has windows decorated with raised mouldings and scrolls on the ground floor, while the windows of the piano nobile above are topped with triangular and round pediments. Crowning the façade is a heavy cornice carried on modillions. The entrance leads into a broad atrium and court. From here a grand staircase with stuccoes and frescoed vaults leads to the apartments of the piano nobile. Queen Christina of Sweden stayed at Palazzo Papini-Capra in 1662 during her journey to Rome. The palace was partially renovated in the mid-1990s. 3. The Verna Mario winery The winery of Verna Mario (via Antiche Terme, 1) is a member of Il Bagnacavallo co-operative and is open to visitors. Verna Mario produces and sells a range of vinegars including condimento balsamico bianco, made from white vinegar and grape must, and the famous L asé d Bagnacaval (vinegar produced in Bagnacavallo). All products are manufactured by the traditional natural wood shavings fermentation method. Tel Casa Conti Guidi A stone s throw from the junction with via Reda on via Boncellino 113 stands Casa Conti Guidi, headquarters of Il Bagnacavallo co-operative (tel ). It s open to visitors, and the Bottega della bontà on the ground floor houses an exhibition of wines, honey, vinegar, preserves and other traditional produce. A restaurant now occupies the former stables. Upstairs are the Sala dell Arte e della Cultura (Hall of art and culture), dedicated to literature on Romagnol heritage, a conference area named Sala dei Legni (Hall of woods) and a third hall, Sala dei Timpani (Hall of tympanum), which hosts educational events as well as shows, concerts and exhibitions. In the gallery outside is a market selling flowers, fruit, salamis, cheeses, wines and other traditional produce. There s also a wood-fired oven for baking bread. On Sunday afternoons Casa Conti Guidi is open for light refreshments with the delicious Romagnol bread known as piadina, sausage, cheeses, sweets and wines. Bikes and binoculars are available for hire. Casa Conti Guidi was built in 1883 and was the last farmhouse to be erected in Bagnacavallo by the descendants of the Guidi family of Faenza, who inherited vast tracts of land in this area in the second half of the 19th century. Every one of the estates built by the Guidi comprised two separate buildings, and in each estate the architectural features of the two buildings are identical. The buildings are located symmetrically, usually on each side of a road. Today, eleven of these buildings remain, nearly all of them in the vicinity of Boncellino. 5. Casa Baldini Casa Baldini was built in the 17th century as a country villa for the Papini family. It was acquired by the Baldini family in 1772 and converted into a farmhouse. Inside, the house retains some 19th-century frescoes and quadratura work. Beside the house is an oratory dedicated to St Antony Abbot. 8 9

6 6. La Rondine study farm La Rondine (via Boncellino, 178) is a family-run farm school which is open to visitors. Orchards and vineyards occupy some eighty acres of the farm; it also raises cattle of the local Romagnol variety and numerous farmyard animals. The rural character of the Romagna plain is perfectly preserved here in the form of hedgerows, groves, and vines trained in the viti maritate method, i.e. hung well clear of the ground amid other vegetation. La Rondine is committed to organic farming and sells all its own produce. You re welcome to visit to take a look at the livestock and orchards, and you can also try the locally-made organic produce. Tel Ballardini-Ricci farm The Ballardini-Ricci farm (via Boncellino, 203) is another member of Il Bagnacavallo co-operative and is open to visitors. A family-run concern, it s farmed using only environmentally-friendly techniques. The introduction of nonyielding hedgerows and thickets has stimulated the recovery of a fast-disappearing local ecosystem, while making the scenery a lot more attractive too. The farm now produces and sells quality wines including Il Boncellino (a dry white wine), L Ambrosia (a strong, sweet white), Bursôn (a red made from grapes of the indigenous Longanesi grapes), and L uva dora (a dry red made from Fortana vineyard). Also sold directly from the farm are fruit and vegetables, ornamental plants, cereals and grain. Tel Via Argine Lamone the legend of Il Passator Cortese On the left after the rise leading to via Argine Lamone is the landing stage where the father of celebrated bandit Stefano Pelloni ( ) operated his ferry service. Pelloni was known as Il Passatore ( the ferryman ) after his father s occupation. After his imprisonment for stealing lucerne, Pelloni became an outlaw and assembled a large band of fellow brigands. Though there s no evidence to substantiate the legend that he took from the rich to give to the poor, Pelloni was given the honorific title of Cortese in Giovanni Pascoli s poem Romagna, written thirty years after the bandit was gunned down by the papal militia. The name has stuck ever since, and Pelloni s exploits are now part of the popular imagination. Novels, poems, plays, and films continue to fuel the legend. Il Passatore has left his mark on the local wine trade too, and in the second fortnight of April every year Boncellino holds a festival known as the Festa del Passatore. 9. The river Lamone The ancient Anemo cited by Pliny the Elder (23 79 AD) in his Naturalis Historia, the Lamone rises near Colla di Casaglia in the Apennines and drains into the Adriatic over a course of some 100 kilometres. On its way across the plain of Romagna to the sea it passes Casalborsetti, Marina Romea, Marradi, Brisighella, Faenza, Bagnacavallo and Russi. And it s namechecked in Dante s Divine Comedy, where the poet describes Faenza as the city of the Lamone. 10. Il Muraglione In the 1950s the waterfalls of the Muraglione were known as the beach of Bagnacavallo. In feast days in summer the inhabitants of the town would meet here in the shadow of the 19th-century watermill to swim, sunbathe and socialize. Today, it s still a popular place for fishing and walking. 11. Zini Aliero farm The Zini Aliero farm (via Sottofiume, 15) is another member of Il Bagnacavallo co-operative and, like the others, is open to visitors. Most of the farm is planted with vines and orchards, and wine and fruit are available for sale. The wines produced here include whites such as Passito del Lamone and Bianco del Mulino, and reds including Sangiovese Ravenna and Bursôn, available in etichetta Blu and etichetta Nera versions. Tel Traversara the tower The tower of Traversara was built in 1371 by the Ercolani family. When the Ercolani later built their own palazzo in the centre of Bagnacavallo, the tower became their summer retreat, a function which it continued to perform right through to the 19th century. It was modified in 1717 and again in Badly damaged by the bombardments of 1944, the tower has since been partially rebuilt. 13. The Bucolica Domus Liverani farm The small family-run farm known as Bucolica Domus (via Destra Canale Inferiore, 4) is a member of Bagnacavallo cooperative and is open to visitors. The estate produces some quality wines which can be bought on the premises: reds include a Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, while Donna Bruna is a sweet rose wine obtained from Cabernet grapes whose skins are removed from the must almost immediately after vinification begins. Tel

7 Route 1 Circular route BAGNACAVALLO - BONCELLINO - TRAVERSARA - BAGNACAVALLO / THE MANY COLOURS OF ROMAGNA DIRECTION NAME OF ROAD KM ROAD NOTES (km count) of streach SURFACE _ WHAT TO SEE Departure Bagnacavallo piazza della Libertà 00,00 flagstones departure point point - n. 1 buildings on piazza della Libertà Straight ahead from piazza della Libertà towards 00,25 asphalt - n. 2 Palazzo Capra km 00,00 via Matteotti R > enter cycle lane from roundabout 00,10 paving tile traffic lights at S. Vitale km 00,25 on via Matteotti highway visible ahead L < leave cycle track at traffic lights / 00,05 asphalt reduce speed, km 00,35 pedestrian crossing and cross careful at junction, S. Vitale highway press button at traffic lights Straight ahead cross S. Vitale highway to enter 00,75 asphalt - n. 3 The Mario Verna km 00,40 via Boncellino winery L < follow signs for via Boncellino 00,05 asphalt - n. 4 Casa Conti Guidi km 01,15 - Il Bagnacavallo cooperative R > turn into via Reda 00,15 asphalt bridge across motorway km 01,20 visible from here R > follow signs for via Reda 00,55 asphalt km 01,35 at end of motorway bridge L < keep left to enter via Ponte Nuovo 01,40 asphalt km 01,90 L < turn into via Malpeli 01,35 asphalt km 3,30 and gravel R > via Boncellino 01,25 asphalt - n. 5 Casa Baldini km 04,65 - n. 6 La Rondine study farm - n. 7 Ballardini-Ricci farm R > via Sottofiume Boncellino 00,20 asphalt km 05,90 L < via Argine Lamone 00,19 asphalt km 06,10 DIRECTION NAME OF ROAD KM ROAD NOTES (km count) of streach SURFACE _ WHAT TO SEE as Marina Romea without having to leave the river bank Straight ahead via Sottofiume Boncellino 01,85 asphalt heavy traffic and km 9,25 narrow road (no cycle lane) - n. 11 Zini Aliero farm Straight ahead intersection with S. Vitale highway 01,30 asphalt dangerous intersection km 11,10 (SP 253), level crossing via Torri SP 25 with poor visibility heavy traffic keep your wits about you! - n. 12 Torre Hercolani L < junction with via Centro Traversara 00,30 asphalt fountain in church square km 12,40 R > on the other side of the village of 00,40 asphalt km 12,70 Traversara take via Longanesi L < turn left remaining on via Longanesi, 00,70 asphalt km 13,10 ignoring carraia Zorli R > via Vecchia Traversara 01,80 asphalt km 13,80 R > carraia Biondina 00,60 asphalt km 15,60 Straight ahead continue across via Cogollo 00,40 dirt, patchy km 16,20 L < Naviglio cycle lane 00,70 asphalt - n. 13 the Bucolica km 16,60 Domus Liverani farm Straight ahead along Naviglio cycle lane as far as 01,50 asphalt km 17,30 wooden bridge R > cross bridge to rejoin cycle lane 00,60 paving tile km 18,80 R > cycle lane on via Matteotti 00,25 asphalt km 19,40 back to departure point Arrival piazza della Libertà end of route km 19,65 L < the asphalt road continues right; 02,22 grass - n. 8 the legend of km 6,29 turn left along the river bank and the bandit earth trail Il Passator Cortese Straight ahead continue along the river bank, 00,67 dirt the earth track is not km 8,51 ignoring the broad ramp that always visible descends towards the river - n. 9 the river Lamone - n. 10 Muraglione waterfall L < downhill near a brick-coloured house 00,07 dirt careful at the barrier; km 9,18 from spring 2006 it will be possible to follow the Lamone as far

8 You don t need to be a champion to enjoy cycling in lower Romagna. There are no mountains, no hills, and the countryside is dominated by a wide river plain which is ideal for cycling. Pedalling here is a pleasure, not an ordeal. You ll pass through fields of exuberant vegetation which were formerly bog and marsh until the reclamation work of the 19th century. Everywhere the scenery is dotted with towers and buildings ranging in bearing from the humble vernacular to the imposing seigneurial. Highlight of the route is the small village of Villanova delle Capanne, built in the 14th century on the left bank of the river Lamone and the hub of the reclamation campaign. Today, the village preserves many vestiges of its old marshland culture and the many uses of marsh grasses. ROUTE 2 THE MARSH COUNTRY OF VILLANOVA Departure: Bagnacavallo Circuit: Bagnacavallo - Boncellino - Traversara - Villanova - Villa Prati - Bagnacavallo Length: km 29,53 Difficulty: medium Departure point for this route is piazza della Libertà in the heart of Bagnacavallo. 1 From here, take via Matteotti, 2 and when you come to the roundabout pick up the cycle lane which runs along via Di Vittorio to the right. Follow the cycle lane as far as the junction with the San Vitale highway. At the traffic lights the cycle lane ends. Cross the junction and head into via Boncellino. On the other side of the level crossing, a short detour on via Antiche Terme to the right will take you to the Verna Mario winery. 3 Back on via Boncellino, head straight on. At the junction with via Galavotti, bear left on via Boncellino 4 and then right into via Reda. Follow the signs on via Reda until the motorway bridge. From here the route enters the open countryside. At the junction with via Lame keep left and take via Ponte Nuovo, then turn left onto via Malpeli. At the junction with via Boncellino turn left and continue along this road, where the sights of interest include casa Baldini 5 and a farm, La Rondine, 6 on the right, and another farm, Ballardini-Ricci, 7 on the left. At the intersection with via Sottofiume Boncellino turn right and then, a little way on, left onto via Argine Lamone. 8 At the end of the ramp, where the asphalt road continues on the right, turn left along the embankment. Following the bank of the Lamone 9 you ll see the village of Boncellino on the left. Then, a few kilometres on, you come to the Muraglione waterfall. 10 At this point, when you get near a brick-coloured house turn right off the embankment road onto via Sottofiume Boncellino, where on your right you ll see the Zini Aliero farm. 11 At the junction with the SP253 head straight on along via Torri: on the left, note the Hercolani tower. 12 After just over a kilometre you ll come to Traversara. Here, keep straight on along via Entirate. Along this road on your way to Villanova di Bagnacavallo are several remarkable old houses on both sides of the road. 13 Further along, via Entirate becomes via Superiore before leading into Villanova. At the roundabout in the centre of the village, turn left into via della Chiesa. At this point take a rest for an unmissable attraction: the museum of marshland culture and its unrivalled collection of reed and grass work. 14 Further along via della Chiesa on the left is the Canadian war cemetery. 15 Past the cemetery, turn right into via Aguta and then left into via Viazza Nuova. About two kilometres down the road you ll come to the bridge over Fosso Vecchio. Here, on either side of the river, are the Preta and Valletta reforestation areas, 16 both well worth investigating. Now continue along via Viazza Nuova until via Sinistra Canale Inferiore where, turning left before the intersection, you join via Destra Canale Inferiore. At the junction with via Cocchi turn right and then left to rejoin via Destra Canale Inferiore. This stretch of the road is also known as ciclabile del Naviglio as it has a cycle lane. Beside the mill of Molino Quercioli is a pleasantly shady stopping place with trestle tables and a water fountain. Back on the road and before arriving back in Bagnacavallo, on the left is Liverani Falco farm. 17 Go straight ahead until you come to 12 13

9 the wooden bridge. Cross the bridge then turn left. A couple of hundred metres further along, the cycle lane enter the village of Bagnacavallo. Keep straight on and, at the third roundabout, turn right into via Matteotti and you re back where you started from in piazza della Libertà. * From spring 2006 it will be possible to follow the bank of the Lamone as far as Marina Romea (see: Down the Lamone towards the sea, page 48), meaning you won t have to divert onto via Sottofiume Boncellino but can continue along the river bank as far as the bridge at Villanova. From here, head down and cross the roundabout in the piazza into via della Chiesa, where you rejoin the route as indicated above. By cutting down to the flood bed of the Lamone you can avoid the level crossing with the busy San Vitale provincial highway (SP253). WHAT TO SEE 1. Piazza della Libertà Overlooking piazza della Libertà is the neoclassical town hall, built in 1791 to a design by Cosimo Morelli. Next door is the elegant Goldoni theatre. Opened in 1845, the interior is sumptuously decorated with stuccoes and frescoes. The impressive tempera backdrop by Bolognese painter Antonio Muzzi is a typical example of the 19th-century vogue for drama-drenched history painting. On the west side of the piazza are Palazzo Vecchio (originally dating from the 12th and 13th centuries but restored on several occasions since) and the town tower. Built in the first half of the 13th century, the tower has been rebuilt several times over the course of the centuries. Internally it s divided into three storeys. It was one of the first of such towers to be fitted with a clock, during the domination of the Este dynasty in the early 16th century. Its bottom level was used as a prison from the 17th to 19th centuries, and since then its three storeys have been known as Inferno, Purgatory and Paradise after Dante s Divine Comedy. One of the tower s most (in)famous inmates was the bandit Stefano Pelloni, nom de guerre Il Passatore ( The Ferryman ), who was imprisoned here in One curious feature: the large nails driven into the wall at the base of the tower were used as a kind of lost-and-found office. People finding lost items would hang them from the nails for their rightful owners to reclaim them. 2. Via Matteotti - Palazzo Capra On the left before the roundabout stands the 17th-century Palazzo Papini, later renamed Palazzo Capra. Rising from a flared basement, the façade of the palace has windows decorated with raised mouldings and scrolls on the ground floor, while the windows of the piano nobile above are topped with triangular and round pediments. Crowning the façade is a heavy cornice carried on modillions. The entrance leads into a broad atrium and court. From here a grand staircase with stuccoes and frescoed vaults leads to the apartments of the piano nobile. Queen Christina of Sweden stayed at Palazzo Papini-Capra in 1662 during her journey to Rome. The palace was partially renovated in the mid-1990s. 3. The Verna Mario winery The winery of Verna Mario (via Antiche Terme, 1) is a member of Il Bagnacavallo co-operative and is open to visitors. Verna Mario produces and sells a range of vinegars including condimento balsamico bianco, made from white vinegar and grape must, and the famous L asé d Bagnacaval (vinegar produced in Bagnacavallo). All products are manufactured by the traditional natural wood shavings fermentation method. Tel Casa Conti Guidi A stone s throw from the junction with via Reda on via Boncellino 113 stands Casa Conti Guidi, headquarters of Il Bagnacavallo co-operative (tel ). It s open to visitors, and the Bottega della bontà on the ground floor houses an exhibition of wines, honey, vinegar, preserves and other traditional produce. A restaurant now occupies the former stables. Upstairs are the Sala dell Arte e della Cultura (Hall of art and culture), dedicated to literature on Romagnol heritage, a conference area named Sala dei Legni (Hall of woods) and a third hall, Sala dei Timpani (Hall of tympanum), which hosts educational events as well as shows, concerts and exhibitions. In the gallery outside is a market selling flowers, fruit, salamis, cheeses, wines and other traditional produce. There s also a wood-fired oven for baking bread. On Sunday afternoons Casa Conti Guidi is open for light refreshments with the delicious Romagnol bread known as piadina, sausage, cheeses, sweets and wines. Bikes and binoculars are available for hire. Casa Conti Guidi was built in 1883 and was the last farmhouse to be erected in Bagnacavallo by the descendants of the Guidi family of Faenza, who inherited vast tracts of land in this area in the second half of the 19th century. Every one of the estates built by the Guidi comprised two separate buildings, and in each estate the architectural features of the two buildings are identical. The buildings are located symmetrically, usually on each side of a road. Today, eleven of these buildings remain, nearly all of them in the vicinity of Boncellino. 5. Casa Baldini Casa Baldini was built in the 17th century as a country villa for the Papini family. It was acquired by the Baldini family in 1772 and converted into a farmhouse. Inside, the house retains some 19th-century frescoes and quadratura work. Beside the house is an oratory dedicated to St Antony Abbot

10 6. La Rondine study farm La Rondine (via Boncellino, 178) is a family-run farm school which is open to visitors. Orchards and vineyards occupy some eighty acres of the farm; it also raises cattle of the local Romagnol variety and numerous farmyard animals. The rural character of the Romagna plain is perfectly preserved here in the form of hedgerows, groves, and vines trained in the viti maritate method, i.e. hung well clear of the ground amid other vegetation. La Rondine is committed to organic farming and sells all its own produce. You re welcome to visit to take a look at the livestock and orchards, and you can also try the locally-made organic produce. Tel Ballardini-Ricci farm The Ballardini-Ricci farm (via Boncellino, 203) is another member of Il Bagnacavallo co-operative and is open to visitors. A family-run concern, it s farmed using only environmentally-friendly techniques. The introduction of nonyielding hedgerows and thickets has stimulated the recovery of a fast-disappearing local ecosystem, while making the scenery a lot more attractive too. The farm now produces and sells quality wines including Il Boncellino (a dry white wine), L Ambrosia (a strong, sweet white), Bursôn (a red made from grapes of the indigenous Longanesi vineyard), and L uva dora (a dry red made from Fortana grapes). Also sold directly from the farm are fruit and vegetables, ornamental plants, cereals and grain. Tel Via Argine Lamone the legend of Il Passator Cortese On the left after the rise leading to via Argine Lamone is the landing stage where the father of celebrated bandit Stefano Pelloni ( ) operated his ferry service. Pelloni was known as Il Passatore ( the ferryman ) after his father s occupation. After his imprisonment for stealing lucerne, Pelloni became an outlaw and assembled a large band of fellow brigands. Though there s no evidence to substantiate the legend that he took from the rich to give to the poor, Pelloni was given the honorific title of Cortese in Giovanni Pascoli s poem Romagna, written thirty years after the bandit was gunned down by the papal militia. The name has stuck ever since, and Pelloni s exploits are now part of the popular imagination. Novels, poems, plays, and films continue to fuel the legend. Il Passatore has left his mark on the local wine trade too, and in the second fortnight of April every year Boncellino holds a festival known as the Festa del Passatore. 9. The river Lamone The ancient Anemo cited by Pliny the Elder (23 79 AD) in his Naturalis Historia, the Lamone rises near Colla di Casaglia in the Apennines and drains into the Adriatic over a course of some 100 kilometres. On its way across the plain of Romagna to the sea it passes Casalborsetti, Marina Romea, Marradi, Brisighella, Faenza, Bagnacavallo and Russi. And it s namechecked in Dante s Divine Comedy, where the poet describes Faenza as the city of the Lamone. 10. Il Muraglione In the 1950s the waterfalls of the Muraglione were known as the beach of Bagnacavallo. In feast days in summer the inhabitants of the town would meet here in the shadow of the 19th-century watermill to swim, sunbathe and socialize. Today, it s still a popular place for fishing and walking. 11. Zini Aliero farm The Zini Aliero farm (via Sottofiume, 15) is another member of Il Bagnacavallo co-operative and, like the others, is open to visitors. Most of the farm is planted with vines and orchards, and wine and fruit are available for sale. The wines produced here include whites such as Passito del Lamone and Bianco del Mulino, and reds including Sangiovese Ravenna and Bursôn, available in etichetta Blu and etichetta Nera versions. Tel Traversara the tower The tower of Traversara was built in 1371 by the Ercolani family. When the Ercolani later built their own palazzo in the centre of Bagnacavallo, the tower became their summer retreat, a function which it continued to perform right through to the 19th century. It was modified in 1717 and again in Badly damaged by the bombardments of 1944, the tower has since been partially rebuilt. 13. Casa Baldi Randi, la Cagnazza, la Bubana Casa Baldi Randi was built in 1850 as a country retreat for cardinal Lorenzo Randi, a native of Bagnacavallo then living in Rome. Architecturally the house is typical of the Veneto-Ferrara taste in country villas, with a large atrium opening onto numerous reception rooms. Adjacent to the villa is the oratory of Our Lady of the Assumption. La Cagnazza: This building owes its rather strange nickname ( The Cur ) to the sculptural feature in the form of a dog on the top of the façade facing the river. La Bubana: built in the late 18th century, La Bubana seems to have originally been a monastery. Like La Cagnazza, it 16 17

11 has a curious name, perhaps a conflation of the surname of its owners, the Bubani, and an expression in the local dialect, bubâna, meaning abundance. 14. Villanova - Museum of marsh grasses Villanova di Bagnacavallo is the local capital of reed crafts. This excellent museum has recovered and conserved an exceptional local heritage of the many methods of working marsh grasses, and is a good introduction to the traditional marshland culture. Special attention goes to the timehonoured techniques of reed work which flourished in the small community of Villanova from the 14th century until as recently as the 1970s. The museum organizes workshops for those wishing to learn the techniques, and every year in the second fortnight of September hosts a reed crafts fair. Tel The Canadian war cemetery Opened in 1944 by the Canadian government, this cemetery contains the graves of over two hundred Canadian soldiers who died fighting the Nazi and fascist forces in a threemonth campaign from November 1944 to January The Preta and Valletta reforestation zones Along via Viazza Nuova on either side of the Fosso Vecchio bridge, the Preta and Valletta reforestation zones are owned by the farm labourers cooperative of Bagnacavallo and Faenza. Both areas, one just over eleven hectares in area and the other just over five, are entirely given over to indigenous vegetation, meadowland and totally uncultivated countryside. They re also a haven for animals of many species, including wild ducks, grey herons, black-winged stilts, and many varieties of eagles, hares, pheasants and quails. 17. The Bucolica Domus Liverani farm The small family-run farm known as Bucolica Domus (via Destra Canale Inferiore, 4) is a member of Il Bagnacavallo co-operative and is open to visitors. The farm produces some quality wines which can be bought on the premises: reds include a Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, while Donna Bruna is a sweet rose wine obtained from Cabernet grapes whose skins are removed almost immediately after vinification begins. Tel

12 Route 2 Circular route BAGNACAVALLO - BONCELLINO - TRAVERSARA - VILLANOVA - VILLA PRATI - BAGNACAVALLO / THE MARCH COUNTRY OF VILLANOVA DIRECTION NAME OF ROAD KM ROAD NOTES (km count) of streach SURFACE _ WHAT TO SEE Departure Bagnacavallo piazza della Libertà 00,00 flagstones departure point point - n. 1 buildings on piazza della Libertà Straight ahead from piazza della Libertà towards 00,25 asphalt - n. 2 Palazzo Capra km 00,00 via Matteotti R > enter cycle lane from roundabout 00,10 paving tile traffic lights at S. Vitale km 00,25 on via Matteotti highway visible ahead L < leave cycle track at traffic lights / 00,05 asphalt reduce speed, km 00,35 pedestrian crossing and cross careful at junction, S. Vitale highway press button at traffic lights Straight ahead cross S. Vitale highway to enter 00,75 asphalt - n. 3 the Verna Mario km 00,40 via Boncellino winery L < follow signs for via Boncellino 00,05 asphalt - n. 4 Casa Conti Guidi km 01,15 - Il Bagnacavallo cooperative R > turn into via Reda 00,15 asphalt bridge across motorway km 01,20 visible from here R > follow signs for via Reda 00,55 asphalt km 01,35 at end of motorway bridge L < keep left to enter via Ponte Nuovo 01,40 asphalt km 01,90 L < turn into via Malpeli 01,35 asphalt km 3,30 and gravel R > via Boncellino 01,25 asphalt - n. 5 Casa Baldini km 04,65 - n. 6 La Rondine study farm - n. 7 Ballardini-Ricci farm R > via Sottofiume Boncellino 00,20 asphalt km 05,90 L < via Argine Lamone 00,19 asphalt km 06,10 L < the asphalt road continues right; 02,22 grass - n. 8 the legend of km 6,29 turn left along the river bank and the bandit earth trail Il Passator Cortese Straight ahead continue along the river bank, 00,67 dirt the earth track is not km 8,51 ignoring the broad ramp that always visible descends towards the river - n. 9 the river Lamone - n. 10 Muraglione waterfall L < downhill near a brick-coloured house 00,07 dirt careful at the barrier; km 9,18 from spring 2006 it will be possible to follow the Lamone as far DIRECTION NAME OF ROAD KM ROAD NOTES (km count) of streach SURFACE _ WHAT TO SEE as Marina Romea without having to leave the river bank Straight ahead via Sottofiume Boncellino 01,85 asphalt heavy traffic and km 9,25 narrow road (no cycle lane) - n. 11 Zini Aliero farm Straight ahead intersection with S. Vitale highway 01,30 asphalt dangerous intersection km 11,10 (SP 253), level crossing via Torri SP 25 with poor visibility heavy traffic keep your wits about you! - n. 12 Torre Hercolani Straight ahead Traversara (bend) towards via Entirate 03,50 asphalt a narrow road with km 12,40 heavy traffic and no cycle lane Straight ahead via Entirate changes name to 01,30 asphalt - n. 13 Casa Baldi km 15,90 via Villanova Superiore in Villanova Randi, la Cagnazza, la Bubana L < at roundabout take via della Chiesa 00,80 asphalt - n. 14 Marshland km 17,20 museum (Ecomuseo delle erbe palustri) - n. 15 Canadian war cemetery R > via Aguta 00,50 asphalt km 18,00 L < via Viazza Nuova 02,50 asphalt - n. 16 Preta and km 18,50 Valletta reforestation zones L < via Destra Canale Inferiore 02,50 gravel for km 21,00 (Naviglio cycle lane) 00,80 asphalt for 01,50 R > at junction turn into via Cocchi 00,10 asphalt km 23,50 L < cycle lane on via Destra Canale Inferiore 03,11 asphalt km 23,60 Straight ahead Quercioli mill 01,39 asphalt stopping point with km 26,71 benches and drinking fountain - n. 17 the Bucolica Domus Liverani farm R > cycle lane crosses wooden bridge 01,23 asphalt and careful with all the km 28,10 coarse sand roundabouts and intersections R > via Matteotti 0,20 asphalt km 29,33 Arrival piazza della Libertà -- asphalt end of route km 29,53

13 This is an easy route which combines nature, art and a touch of watersports. It s suitable for everyone, from mountain bikers and hardened cyclists to families with young children. The route takes in Bagnacavallo s museum, which has an extensive art collection and an interesting natural history section, before heading out into the open country. Not far from the centre of town is Podere Pantaleone, an old farm estate which has been converted into an environmental rehabilitation zone. It s easy to spend hours just communing with nature here, immersed in the luxuriant greenery of the estate. Another attraction on this route is the swimming pool of Rossetta, which is great for a refreshing dip on sticky summer afternoons. Departure point for this route is piazza della Libertà in the heart of Bagnacavallo. 1 From here, take via Garibaldi. 2 Before reaching Porta Pieve turn left into via Vittorio Veneto, where the town s museum and cultural centre, Le Cappuccine, 3 stands on the left. Head straight on across the junction with via Fossa and into via Guarno. From here the route enters the open countryside. A little further on, via Guarno turns right; ignore this junction and keep straight on via Rotondi. At the junction with via Stradello 4 turn right and then, a little further on, left in the direction of Podere Pantaleone. 5 After visiting the nature reserve head back down via Pantaleone and turn left into via Stradello. About four kilometres further on, turn right into via Sinistra Fosso Munio, then left into via Abbadesse and follow this road as far as the junction with via Chiara. Here, turn right in the direction of Villa Prati. At the junction with via Sinistra Canale Inferiore turn right in the direction of Bagnacavallo, and then immediately left. Cross the wooden bridge over Canale Naviglio then turn left again to pick up the pleasant and shady Naviglio cycle lane. At the junction with via Cocchi turn right then immediately left to rejoin the road along the canal. After about a kilometre turn left and cross via Sinistra Canale Inferiore into via Bellaria. Follow this road as far as the junction with via Rossetta. Cross the junction and take via Rossetta Sottofiume. When you come to the town of Rossetta turn left to reach the swimming pool. 6 ROUTE 3 IN SEARCH OF THE OLD ROMAGNA COUNTRYSIDE Departure: Bagnacavallo Route: Bagnacavallo - Villa Prati - Rossetta Length: km 13,91 Difficulty: low 20 21

14 WHAT TO SEE 1. Piazza della Libertà On piazza della Libertà is the neoclassical town hall, built in 1791 to a design by Cosimo Morelli. Beside the palazzo is the impressive Goldoni theatre. Opened in 1845, the interior is sumptuously decorated with stuccoes and frescoes. The impressive tempera backdrop by Bolognese painter Antonio Muzzi is a typical example of the 19th-century vogue for drama-drenched history paintings. On the west side of the piazza stand Palazzo Vecchio (originally dating from the 12th and 13th centuries but restored on several occasions since) and the town tower. Built in the first half of the 13th century, the tower has been rebuilt several times over the course of the centuries. Internally it s divided into three storeys. It was one of the first of such towers to be fitted with a clock, during the domination of the Este dynasty in the early 16th century. Its bottom level was used as a prison from the 17th to 19th centuries, and since then its three storeys have been known as Inferno, Purgatory and Paradise after Dante s Divine Comedy. One of the tower s most (in)famous inmates was the bandit Stefano Pelloni, nom de guerre Il Passatore ( the ferryman ), who was imprisoned here in Curiously, the large nails driven into the wall at the base of the tower functioned as a kind of lost-andfound office. People finding lost items would hang them from the nails for their rightful owners to reclaim them. 2. Via Garibaldi On the left as we head along via Garibaldi in the direction of Porta Pieve is the 13th-century Torraccia, one of the oldest buildings in Bagnacavallo s historic centre. A little further along on the same side of the street are the church and monastery of San Giovanni, founded in 1336 by the Camaldolensian order. Rebuilt after the earthquake of 1688, in 1816 the monastery came into the possession of its current owners, the nuns of the Capuchin order. In the early 19th century the monastery housed a renowned girls school. Lord Byron s daughter, Allegra, was an inmate of the school and died here while still a young child. A little further on, on the right, is the Memorial to the war dead. Founded by the friars of the Battuti Bianchi in 1399, this church was rebuilt in the 18th century. Inside, the interesting painting of the Immaculate Conception dates from the same period. 3. Le Cappuccine museum and cultural centre This cultural centre occupies a former 18th-century convent of the Capuchin Sisters, hence its name. The kitchen garden of the convent is now a public park. The centre is home to an impressive collection of antique and modern art, and has a library and important historical archive. Well worth seeing are the rooms containing the works of contemporary artist Enzo Morelli a native of Bagnacavallo and the sections dedicated to two important men of letters and also natives of Bagnacavallo: Thomaso Garzoni and Leo Longanesi. Le Cappuccine is also home to a prints library with an exceptionally rich collection of engravings and a busy exhibition schedule. Most of the museum, however, is dedicated to contemporary painting. Opening hours: 10amnoon / 4pm-7pm (April to September); 10am-noon / 3pm- 6pm (October to March). Closed Mondays and days after public holidays, 1-20 August, Christmas day and New Year s day. Admission is free. Tel Golfari farm Golfari farm (via Stradello, 9/a) is a member of Il Bagnacavallo co-operative and is open to visitors. A family-run farm, it s mainly planted with vines and fruit trees. Available for sale directly on the premises are peaches, honey and wine both red (Bursôn, etichetta Blu and etichetta Nera) and white (Passito degli Stradelli). Tel Podere Pantaleone environmental reserve Podere Pantaleone is a kind of open-air museum of nature: extending over an area of six hectares, it s an environmental reserve in which the idea is to allow the natural ecology of the region to re-establish itself. The reserve is on the site of an old farm which lay abandoned for several decades. During this time the resident vegetation has sprawled freely over the estate, and the result is an oasis of exceptionally luxuriant greenery punctuated here and there with grassy clearings. It all makes an ideal environment for the local fauna to flourish unchallenged by human encroachment, and Podere Pantaleone is now a happy breeding ground for hundreds of species of birds, beetles, butterflies, amphibians, reptiles and mammals. The reserve is open to visitors from early spring through late autumn; for information and guided visits contact the local tourist information bureau on Tel Rossetta swimming pool This pool, at via Rossetta Traversa, 7, Fusignano, is part of a sports and leisure complex complete with solarium, green spaces with football pitches (including floodlit 5-a-side), tennis courts, beach volleyball, court volleyball and table tennis. There s also a bar, restaurant, and a fully-serviced park for camper vans. The complex offers classes in swimming, gymnastics, aerobics, water aerobics and dancing, and regularly hosts music, sports and theatre events. Open June to September. For more information call Tel

15 Route 3 BAGNACAVALLO - VILLA PRATI - ROSSETTA / IN SEARCH OF THE OLD ROMAGNA COUNTRYSIDE DIRECTION NAME OF ROAD KM ROAD NOTES (km count) of streach SURFACE _ WHAT TO SEE Departure Bagnacavallo piazza della Libertà 00,00 flagstones departure point point - n. 1 buildings on piazza della Libertà L < towards via Garibaldi 00,10 flagstones - n. 2 buildings in km 00,00 via Garibaldi L < follow via Garibaldi 00,02 asphalt km 00,10 DIRECTION NAME OF ROAD KM ROAD NOTES (km count) of streach SURFACE _ WHAT TO SEE Straight ahead from via Bellaria cross 01,29 dirt km 12,42 via Rossetta and take carraia Rossetta Sottofiume R > when you arrive in Rossetta turn left 00,20 asphalt - n. 6 Rossetta km 13,71 towards the swimming pool swimming pool Arrival Rossetta swimming pool end of route km 13,91 R > towards via Vittorio Veneto 00,18 asphalt - n. 3 Le Cappuccine km 00,12 museum and cultural centre Straight ahead junction with via Fossa (crossing) 00,20 asphalt km 00,30 towards via Guarno Straight ahead follow via Rotondi 00,40 asphalt km 00,50 R > turn into via Stradello towards 04,10 asphalt - n. 4 Golfari farm km 00,90 Podere Pantaleone - n. 5 Podere Pantaleone R > leave via Stradello at junction 00,35 asphalt km 05,00 and follow via Sinistra Fosso Munio L < turn into via Abbadesse 00,50 asphalt km 05,35 R > turn into via Chiara in the direction 01,80 asphalt km 05,85 of Villa Prati R > In Villa Prati, take 00,10 asphalt km 07,65 via Sinistra Canale Inferiore (SP 8) in the direction of Bagnacavallo L < at the pedestrian crossing on the SP 8, 00,10 asphalt the wooden bridge you km 07,75 cross the highway by the cycle lane have to cross comes into view L < follow the cycle lane that skirts Villa Prati 00,80 asphalt km 07,85 R > junction with via Cocchi 00,01 asphalt km 08,65 follow this road until you rejoin the cycle lane on the left L < rejoin the cycle lane along 01,27 asphalt km 08,66 the Naviglio canal L < take the ramp leading up to the 0,06 asphalt km 09,93 wooden bridge and cross the canal Straight ahead cross the highway on 02,43 asphalt km 09,99 via Sinistra Canale Inferiore take via Bellaria

16 This is a pleasant circuit which strikes a perfect balance between nature and history. The route covers tracks, river banks and paths that cross a fertile plain planted mainly with fruit trees and vines: in spring the scenery is dominated by the pink blossom of nectarine and peach trees, while the vines produce the exceptionally sweet Longanesi grapes which are used in making the famous and full-bodied Bursôn wine. The grapes are named after the Longanesi family who in the 1950s saved from extinction the last surviving vine of this indigenous variety. Villas and farmhouses are everywhere to be seen on this route, some of them perfectly intact and preserving their original features, others extensively and expensively restored. The route also passes several farms which are members of Il Bagnacavallo co-operative, whose mission is to preserve and project the best in local produce. And for atmosphere, there s the legend of local bandit Stefano Pelloni, a native of Boncellino who met his death at Villa Spadina near Russi. Pelloni owes his nickname, Il Passatore ( the ferryman ) to the traditional occupation of his family, which was to ferry people across the river Lamone. ROUTE 4 ON THE TRAIL OF IL PASSATORE Departure: Bagnacavallo Circular route: Bagnacavallo - Boncellino - Russi - Bagnacavallo Length: km 26,76 Difficulty: medium Departure point for this route is the beautiful Piazza Nuova, 1 one of the prettiest spots in Bagnacavallo. From here, follow the cycle lane that runs along via Marconi, via Cristofori and via Sinistra Canale Superiore in the direction of Faenza. After the level crossing at the junction with via Galavotti, turn left in the direction of via Boncellino. On the left, a little way past the junction with via Boncellino, is the recently-renovated Casa Guidi one of many local buildings with this name which is now headquarters of Il Bagnacavallo co-operative, an organization of local producers of wine and fruits. 2 Follow via Boncellino through the underpass and then turn right into via dei Martini. Head straight on as far as the junction with via Malpeli and then turn left to rejoin via Boncellino a little further on. On this stretch of road are Casa Baldini 3 and two farms, La Rondine 4 and Ricci Ballardini. 5 Head straight on until you come to the village of Boncellino, birthplace of Il Passatore, the noble bandit. 6 Turn right into via Sottofiume and then left into via Argine Lamone. Follow this road right to the end (it changes name to via Toletta further down). Now turn left again onto the Rugata Madrara provincial highway and cross the bridge over the Lamone 7 to the right bank of the river, in the direction of Russi. Following the river bank, after about two kilometres the cycle lane extends for some 400 metres beyond the junction leading off the bank to the place where Villa Spadina 8 stood and the spot where Il Passatore was fatally ambushed. Now leave the river bank and head down along via Madrara, pass the level crossing and continue as far as the junction. Here, turn right in the direction of Russi. Head straight on until you come to a no entry sign, turn left into via Modigliani and then next right into via Matteotti. At the traffic lights keep straight on into via Trieste. At the next set of lights turn right in the direction of piazza Farini. 9 To leave the centre follow via Vecchia Godo, pass the level crossing then turn left into via Di Vittorio. At the intersection with the highway go straight on to join via Europa. Two hundred metres further along, turn left into via Mozambico. Left again and at no. 5 you ve reached the Aquae Mundi aquarium. 10 Back on via Europa, take via Fiumazzo off the roundabout to reach the impressive Roman villa 11 archaeology site (at number 30) and the adjacent ecology preserve. Head back to the roundabout and follow via Fiumazzo for two kilometres. Keep right at the fork and take the tree-lined road, 24 25

17 carrarone Rasponi, which leads to Palazzo San Giacomo. 12 Follow the road which runs alongside the palazzo until you come to the river bank. Here, turn right. Follow the river bank and after about 700 metres you ll come to Gamberina estate (street number 14). 13 Keep straight on until the bridge over the San Vitale main road, then turn left and left again on via Sottofiume Boncellino, where at no. 15 you can visit the Zini farm. 14 Now turn right into via Muraglione and head straight on until you come to via Boncellino. Here, at no. 114, is the Longanesi estate. 15 An obligatory stop for wine lovers, as this estate is the birthplace of the famous Bursôn wine. Follow via Boncellino as far as the junction with via Galavotti. Pick up the cycle lane on via Galavotti and at the junction with the Naviglio main road turn right in the direction of Bagnacavallo. After a few hundred metres you ll cross the San Vitale main road. After Porta Superiore 16 you enter via Mazzini, 17 which leads to piazza della Libertà in the heart of Bagnacavallo. Il Passatore was once held prisoner in the clocktower 18 overlooking the piazza. WHAT TO SEE 1. Piazza Nuova Built in 1758, Piazza Nuova is almost unique for the originality and elegance of its architecture. Formerly a market selling meat, fish and other produce, it s built on a distinctive oval plan. The piazza presents an exposed-brick façade to the exterior, while the shops which housed the traders looked onto the courtyard through the round arches of the arcade which lines the piazza. Today, the piazza is occupied by crafts workshops as well as an excellent restaurant which is a member of the Ca de Ven group. The courtyard of the piazza a perfect oval is a major venue for concerts and events. 2. Casa Conti Guidi Casa Conti Guidi is headquarters of Il Bagnacavallo cooperative (Tel ). It s open to visitors, and the Bottega della bontà on the ground floor houses an exhibition of wines, honey, vinegar, preserves and other traditional produce. A restaurant now occupies the former stables. Upstairs are the Sala dell Arte e della Cultura (Hall of art and culture), dedicated to literature on Romagnol heritage, a conference area named Sala dei Legni (Hall of woods) and a third hall, Sala dei Timpani (Hall of tympanum), which hosts educational events as well as shows, concerts and exhibitions. In the gallery outside is a market selling flowers, fruit, salamis, cheeses, wines and other traditional produce. There s also a wood-fired oven for baking bread. On Sunday afternoons Casa Conti Guidi is open for light refreshments with the delicious Romagnol bread known as piadina, plus sausage, cheeses, sweets and wines. Bikes and binoculars are available for hire. Casa Conti Guidi was built in 1883 and was the last farmhouse to be erected in Bagnacavallo by the descendants of the Guidi family of Faenza, who inherited vast tracts of land in this area in the second half of the 19th century. Every one of the estates built by the Guidi comprised two separate buildings, and in each estate the architectural features of the two buildings are identical. The buildings are located symmetrically, usually on each side of a road. Today, eleven of these buildings remain, nearly all of them in the vicinity of Boncellino. 3. Casa Baldini Casa Baldini was built in the 17th century as a country villa for the Papini family. It was acquired by the Baldini family in 1772 and converted into a farmhouse. Beside the house is an 18th-century chapel. 4. La Rondine study farm La Rondine (via Boncellino, 178) is a family-run farm school which is open to visitors. Orchards and vineyards occupy some eighty acres of the farm; it also raises cattle of the local Romagnol variety and numerous farmyard animals. The rural character of the Romagna plain is perfectly preserved here in the form of hedgerows, thickets, groves and vines trained in the viti maritate method, i.e. hung well clear of the ground amid other vegetation. La Rondine is committed to organic farming and sells all its own produce. You re welcome to visit to take a look at the livestock and orchards, and you can also try and buy the locally-made organic produce. Tel Ballardini-Ricci farm The Ballardini-Ricci farm (via Boncellino, 203) is another member of Il Bagnacavallo cooperative and is open to visitors. A family-run concern, it s farmed using only environmentally-friendly techniques. The introduction of nonyielding hedgerows and thickets has stimulated the recovery of a fast-disappearing local ecosystem, while making the scenery a lot more attractive too. The farm now produces and sells quality wines including Il Boncellino (a dry white wine), L Ambrosia (a strong, sweet white), Bursôn (a red made from grapes of the indigenous Longanesi vineyard), and L uva dora (a dry red made from Fortana grapes). Also sold directly from the farm are fruit and vegetables, ornamental plants, cereals and grain. Tel Il Passator Cortese - a good, old-fashioned bandit In reality, Stefano Pelloni ( ) was never cortese ( noble ) nor a passatore ( ferryman ) for very long. He took his nickname from his father s occupation as a ferryman on the river Lamone; Pelloni senior hoped to make his son a priest. But the young Stefano quickly showed himself to be 26 27

18 unsuited to study and the priesthood, and so for a while took over his father s occupation. After being tried for stealing lucerne from a neighbour s land, Pelloni became an outlaw at the head of a large company of bandits which roamed and ravaged the whole of Romagna. Though there s no evidence to substantiate the legend that he took from the rich to give to the poor, Pelloni was given the honorific title of Cortese in Giovanni Pascoli s poem Romagna, written thirty year s after the bandit was gunned down by the police and papal militia. The name has stuck ever since, and Pelloni s exploits are now part of the popular imagination. Novels, poems, plays, and films continue to fuel the legend. On the left after climbing to via Argine Lamone you can see the place where Pelloni s father operated his ferry service. In the second fortnight of April every year Boncellino holds a wine festival known as the Festa del Passatore "Lom a premavira". 7. The river Lamone The ancient Anemo cited by Pliny the Elder (23-79 AD) in his Naturalis Historia, the Lamone rises near Colla di Casaglia in the Apennines and drains into the Adriatic over a course of some 100 kilometres. On its way across the plain of Romagna to the sea it passes Casalborsetti, Marina Romea, Marradi, Brisighella, Faenza, Bagnacavallo and Russi. And it s namechecked in Dante s Divine Comedy, where the poet describes Faenza as the city of the Lamone. Inside the church are preserved the remains of the beate Margherita and Gentile. Other attractions include a series of statues by the studio of Faenza artist Ballanti Graziani, and an impressive altarpiece by Bernardino Guarini, recently restored. Next to the Dean Church is the small church in Albis, now an exhibition and events venue. From here starts via Cavour, along which is the town theatre. On the adjoining piazzetta Dante stands the town tower, on the spot where the castle gate formerly stood. In corso Luigi Carlo Farini is another gat, Porta Nôva (1763). Turning left just before Porta Nôva, via Babini leads to the gardens and the remains of the north-east turret of the castle. On the upper storey of this structure lived Vincenzo Querzola, a.k.a. Bruson, who in the small hours of March 1851 discovered the hideout of Il Passatore and his faithful companion, Giazôl, in a hut in villa Spadina. Querzola informed the papal militia of their whereabouts. At via Garibaldi 51 in the centre of Russi on the highway to Faenza is the Tenuta Uccellina farm - winery, a member of Il Bagnacavallo co-operative. Tenuta Uccellina has won a host of prizes for its Sangiovesi wines, which include the famous Regio Rosso Passito as well as Clivo del Re and Albana Passito docg. It produces excellent wines from the Romagna Albana, Pagadebit, Cagnina and Trebbiano vines. Tenuta Uccellina is also one of the biggest producers of Bursôn. It also makes the traditional wine of Russi, la Canèna. Wine can be bought direct from the premises. Tel Villa Spadina Until the Second World War, this spot on the right bank of the river Lamone was occupied by Villa Molesta, built by the counts Spadini of Faenza. On the run from the militia commanded by Captain Battistini, Il Passatore and a fellowbandit, Vincenzo Tasselli, ( Giazôl ), holed up in a hut on the grounds of the villa on the night of 22 March On the morning of the 23rd the two men found themselves surrounded and attempted to shoot their way out. In the exchange of gunfire that followed, Il Passatore and a policeman died. Tasselli managed to get away. Nothing of the villa now remains except a few outbuildings. 9. Russi - piazza Domenico Antonio Farini The day after the fatal shootout, the body of Il Passatore was slung onto a pushcart which then set off on a macabre roadshow taking in various towns of Romagna. The procession began here in piazza Farini, Russi. On the right side of the piazza are the remains of the old fortress (built by Guidone Da Polenta in 1371), now home to the town museum, whose collections include Roman artefacts from the nearby archaeological site and the Alfredo Baccarini bequest (for opening hours and further information call ). On the other side of the piazza is the Dean church where Il Passatore was baptized on 4 August Aquae Mundi aquarium This aquarium and research laboratory has 6000 m 2 of exhibition space where you can see some of the strangest aquatic and amphibian creatures on the planet, including salamanders, tree toads, mackerel sharks and many weird and wonderful crustaceans. The aquarium is at via Mozambico, 5. Tel Fax The Roman villa Excavations on this site began in 1938, with later campaigns in the 1950s and 1980s. They have revealed an extraordinary villa and farm complex with an area of over 3500 m 2. The earliest buildings on the site date from the Republican period. It reached its peak during the Augustan age and remained active until the 4th century. The complex is enclosed by a portico and includes residential quarters (with some exceptionally fine mosaic pavements), a production area, and service quarters. The bath complex can also be seen. Wall paintings and furnishings from the villa are now on display in the archaeological section of the Town Museum. For information and tickets tel for guided visits tel The villa is now enclosed by the environmental reahabilitation area, an 28 29

19 environmental reserve jointly managed by the WWF and by the Legambiente environmental association. The reserve occupies the site of a former clay quarry and is planted with the vegetation which was typically to be found on the Ravenna plain during the Roman period. The reserve is an important refuge for many bird species, both nesting and migratory: around 120 different species have been spotted here. Open Saturdays and public holidays. For information tel Palazzo San Giacomo Built in the late 17th century by the Rasponi, a noble family from Ravenna, this palazzo was commissioned by count Guido Carlo in honour of his brother Cesare s nomination as a bishop, and is now one of the most beautiful summer retreats to be found anywhere in Romagna. Its monumental external appearance is matched on the inside by some impressive frescoes on mythological and allegorical themes which together make the largest pictorial cycle of the Baroque period anywhere in Romagna. The external chapel was added in Dedicated to St James, it was built to plans by Imola-based architect Cosimo Morelli. For information and guided visits tel Tenuta Gamberina study farm The Francesco Donati farm, a member of Il Bagnacavallo co-operative, is at via Argine Destro Lamone 14, on one of the prettiest stretches of local countryside. Nearby is Palazzo San Giacomo, known locally, with good reason, as the "Versailles" of the Rasponi. The farm practises an unusual blend of tradition and modernity, cultivating ancient fruit varieties and experimenting in new uses for them. It occupies an area of around 17 hectares, most of which are planted with vines, apple trees and peach trees. All produce from the farm is compliant with EU regulation 2078/92 on organic farming. You can buy wines (including Bursôn etichetta Blu and etichetta Nera and the estate s own sweet wines) directly on the premises. Tel Longanesi Daniele farm Longanesi Daniele farm (via Boncellino, 114) is a member of Il Bagnacavallo co-operative and is open to visitors. The Longanesi family who run the estate are best known under the sobriquet of Burson. Back in the 1950s, they saved from extinction this type of vine that has always grown on the estate. An ancient species, it was indigenous to the region and was found absolutely nowhere else. The celebrated Bursôn wine which it yields is produced according to traditional methods and aged in oak barrels. Bursôn is a garnet red with great personality. After maturing in oak barrels it is bottle-aged to bring out the flavour so distinctive of the Ravenna pine forests in which the vine has always grown. A dry wine with an unmistakable aroma and body, Bursôn goes excellently with game and red meats, roasts, truffles and mature cheeses. Bursôn etichetta Blu and etichetta Nera is available for sale directly from the farm, as are Decimello (a sweet white) and Balsamino (a sweet red). Tel Porta Superiore Rebuilt in the 18th century over the remains of the old city gate, with decorations on the outer face. 17. Via Mazzini Some buildings of note on via Mazzini: Palazzo Abbondanza, built in 1675 and home to the town s first theatre; Palazzo Folicaldi, an 18th-century palazzo which received an extra storey in the 19th century; the Carmine, a church which combines the Baroque and the neoclassical styles; vicolo degli Amori, an atmospheric alleyway beside the former Carmelite monastery; Palazzo Longanesi Cattani, an 18th-century pile with an attractive ground-floor arcade; Palazzo delle Opere Pie, built in 1728 for the bishop of Faenza; and the Collegiate church of San Michele Arcangelo, rebuilt in the 17th century on foundations dating back to the 12th century and with a magnificent altarpiece by Bartolemo Ramenghi. 14. The Zini Aliero farm The Zini Aliero farm (via Sottofiume, 15) is another member of Il Bagnacavallo cooperative and, like the others, is open to visitors. Most of the estate is planted with vines and orchards, and wine and fruit are available for sale. The wines produced here include whites such as Passito del Lamone and Bianco del Mulino, and reds including Sangiovese Ravenna and Bursôn, available in etichetta Blu and etichetta Nera versions. Tel Piazza della Libertà and Torre civica Overlooking piazza della Libertà is the neoclassical town hall, built in 1791 to a design by Cosimo Morelli. Next door is the elegant Goldoni theatre. Opened in 1845, the interior is sumptuously decorated with stuccoes and frescoes. The impressive tempera backdrop by Bolognese painter Antonio Muzzi is a typical example of the 19th-century vogue for drama-drenched history painting. On the west side of the piazza are Palazzo Vecchio (originally dating from the 12th and 13th centuries but restored on several occasions since) and the town tower. Built in the first half of the 13th century, the tower has been rebuilt several times over the course of 30 31

20 the centuries. Internally it s divided into three storeys. It was one of the first of such towers to be fitted with a clock, during the domination of the Este dynasty in the early 16th century. Its bottom level was used as a prison from the 17th to 19th centuries, and since then its three storeys have been known as Inferno, Purgatory and Paradise after Dante s Divine Comedy. One of the tower s most (in)famous inmates was the bandit Stefano Pelloni, nom de guerre Il Passatore ( the ferryman ), who was imprisoned here in Curiously, the large nails driven into the wall at the base of the tower functioned as a kind of lost-and-found office. People finding lost items would hang them from the nails for their rightful owners to reclaim them

21 Route 4 Circular route BAGNACAVALLO - BONCELLINO - RUSSI - BAGNACAVALLO / ON THE TRAIL OF IL PASSATORE DIRECTION NAME OF ROAD KM ROAD NOTES (km count) of streach SURFACE _ WHAT TO SEE Departure Bagnacavallo Piazza Nuova 00,00 asphalt departure point point largo Kennedy - n. 1 Piazza Nuova R > via Vecchia Darsena, towards kiosk 00,06 asphalt km 00,01 L < up the ramp towards elevated 00,06 paving tile km 00,07 cycle lane Straight ahead follow cycle lane 00,10 paving tile fountain km 00,13 Straight ahead cross one way street 00,08 paving tile km 00,23 L < at the traffic lights use the 00,01 asphalt km 00,31 pedestrian crossing R > follow the cycle lane along 00,36 asphalt km 00,32 the San Vitale highway Straight ahead cross level crossing 00,33 asphalt km 00,68 L < turn into via Galavotti 00,11 asphalt km 01,01 L < follow via Galavotti 00,45 asphalt km 01,12 Straight ahead leave via Galavotti and join 01,06 red asphalt km 01,57 via Boncellino L < keep on via Boncellino 00,43 red asphalt - n. 2 Casa Conti Guidi km 02,63 - Il Bagnacavallo cooperative R > turn into via dei Martini 00,52 red asphalt km 03,06 L < follow via dei Martini 00,55 red asphalt km 03,58 L < turn into via Malpeli 00,37 red asphalt km 04,13 R > turn into via Boncellino 00,50 red asphalt km 04,50 Straight ahead via Boncellino 00,73 red asphalt - n. 3 Casa Baldini km 05,00 - n. 4 La Rondine study farm - n. 5 Ballardini-Ricci farm R > turn into via Sottofiume Boncellino 00,21 asphalt - n. 6 Il Passator Cortese, km 05,73 a good old fashioned bandit L < turn into via Argine Lamone and 01,30 asphalt km 05,94 follow this road to the end (its name changes to via Toletta further down) DIRECTION NAME OF ROAD KM ROAD NOTES (km count) of streach SURFACE _ WHAT TO SEE L < cross via Madrara and 00,20 asphalt - n. 7 the Lamone river km 07,24 the bridge to join the right bank of the Lamone L < follow via Madrara along the 01,30 asphalt km 07,44 right bank of the Lamone Straight ahead follow the Lamone cycle lane 01,20 fine gravel - n. 8 Villa Spadina km 08,74 R > follow via Madrara where it leaves 00,60 asphalt barrier on river bank km 09,94 the river bank visible from here L < follow via Madrara, 01,40 asphalt road runs parallel to km 10,54 ignoring the level crossing the railway line R > turn into via IV Novembre 00,70 asphalt - n. 9 Russi, km 11,94 towards Russi piazza Farini and Tenuta Uccellina L < turn into via Modigliani 00,01 asphalt km 12,64 R > turn into via Matteotti 00,30 asphalt km 12,65 Straight ahead at the traffic lights, head straight on 00,10 asphalt careful at the junction km 12,95 into via Trieste as far as the next set of traffic lights R > at the traffic lights, 00,10 asphalt km 13,05 turn right into via Don Minzoni and paving tile R > at piazza Farini join the cycle lane 00,10 paving tile km 13,15 (beside car park and church) L < corso Farini 00,15 asphalt km 13,25 L < via Babini as far as traffic lights 00,10 asphalt km 13,40 Straight ahead via Godo Vecchia 01,50 asphalt careful at the junction km 13,50 with via Trieste L < via Di Vittorio 00,30 asphalt km 15,00 Straight ahead via Europa 00,20 asphalt dangerous junction km 15,30 with via Europa L < via Mozambico 00,02 asphalt km 15,50 L < follow left on via Mozambico 00,03 asphalt - n. 10 Aquae Mundi km 15,52 aquarium R > rejoin via Europa from via Mozambico 00,02 asphalt km 15,58 L < follow via Europa as far as 00,50 asphalt km 15,60 the roundabout L < from the roundabout, take via Fiumazzo 00,20 asphalt - n. 11 Villa Romana km 16,10 DIRECTION NAME OF ROAD KM ROAD NOTES (km count) of streach SURFACE _ WHAT TO SEE L < head back to the roundabout 00,20 asphalt km 16,30 by via Fiumazzo L < from the roundabout, follow via Fiumazzo 00,90 asphalt km 16,50 Straight ahead follow Carrarone Rasponi 00,60 asphalt fountain at the km 17,40 start of tree-lined avenue - n. 12 Palazzo San Giacomo R > follow Carrarone Rasponi 00,10 asphalt km 18,00 around Palazzo San Giacomo Straight ahead follow the bank of the Lamone 01,60 fine gravel - n. 13 Tenuta km 18,10 as far as the next junction Gamberina study farm L < intersection with San Vitale (SP 253) 00,20 asphalt dangerous junction! km 19,70 highway and bridge over the Lamone L < leave the SP 253 for 01,90 asphalt - n. 14 Zini Aliero farm km 19,90 via Sottofiume Boncellino R > via Muraglione 01,56 asphalt km 21,80 Straight ahead junction with via Boncellino 00,50 red asphalt km 23,36 Straight ahead by via Boncellino 00,55 red asphalt - n. 15 Longanesi km 23,86 Daniele farm R > follow via Boncellino 01,08 red asphalt km 24,41 Straight ahead follow for via Galavotti 00,43 asphalt km 25,49 R > turn into via Galavotti 00,09 asphalt km 25,92 R > join the cycle lane beside via Naviglio 00,33 asphalt km 26,01 Straight ahead junction with via San Vitale 00,10 asphalt heavy traffic on this km 26,48 stretch of road Straight ahead don t take the main road but instead 00,13 asphalt dangerous crossing km 26,58 the side street (via Cristofori) which with heavy traffic leads to the centre of Bagnacavallo Straight ahead Porta Superiore 00,05 asphalt - n. 16 Porta Superiore km 26,71 Straight ahead follow via Mazzini as far as 00,30 asphalt - n. 17 buildings on km 26,76 piazza della Libertà via Mazzini Arrival piazza della Libertà end of route km 26,76 - n. 18 piazza della Libertà and Torre civica

22 This is a route of considerable historic, artistic and natural interest which passes some of the loveliest places in lower Romagna. Along the way you ll thread through some beautiful countryside steeped in silence and greenery. You ll see natural hedgerows of elder, hawthorn and dog rose, old canals that once brought water to the mills, villas and farmhouses, estates neatly planted with drills that endlessly recede into the distance, and towns with perfectly-preserved historic centres bursting with churches, museums, palazzi and castles. Two areas are of exceptional environmental interest: Canale dei Molini (Mill canal) and Parco del Loto (Lotus park). Departure point for this route is piazza della Libertà in the heart of Bagnacavallo. 1 From here, take the cycle lane on via Garibaldi 2, alongside the town hall. Be careful to keep to the right on this street as all the traffic is oncoming. At the traffic lights, cross the junction and pick up the cycle lane on the right-hand side of via Pieve Masiera. Follow straight ahead and at the roundabout 3 turn off at the third exit on the right, via Bagnoli inferiore, then turn right again into via Bruciamolina. After about two kilometres turn left into via Confini Levante. At the intersection with the San Vitale highway turn right and keep straight on until joining the cycle lane on the right-hand side of viale Dante. You re now coming into Lugo. At the roundabout head straight on along corso Matteotti 4 until you get to piazza Baracca - piazza Martiri. 5 On the other side of the two piazzas turn left, and then immediately right into vicolo del Teatro, and then into via Amendola. Follow this road as far as the junction with via Circondario Ponente. Here, turn left then right a little further along, into via Villa. 6 Turn left into via Canale Superiore Sinistra and follow this road as far as the church. Here, turn right into via Zagonara and then left into via Castellazzo. Follow via Castellazo until you come to via dei Grilli. 7 Keep straight on until you enter via Rio Fantino. At the junction, pass the Gramola restaurant into via Canale. After about a kilometre turn right into via Peschiera and then left into via Lunga further on. Then turn right into via Giuliana and the town of Bagnara di Romagna. 8 ROUTE 5 CANAL AND WATERMILL TRAIL Departure: Bagnacavallo Route: Bagnacavallo - Lugo - Bagnara di Romagna Length: km 17,60 Difficulty: low 34 35

23 WHAT TO SEE BAGNACAVALLO 1. Piazza della Libertà On piazza della Libertà is the neoclassical town hall, built in 1791 to a design by Cosimo Morelli. Beside the palazzo is the impressive Goldoni theatre. Opened in 1845, the interior is sumptuously decorated with stuccoes and frescoes. The impressive tempera backdrop by Bolognese painter Antonio Muzzi is a typical example of the 19th-century vogue for drama-drenched history paintings. On the west side of the piazza stand Palazzo Vecchio (originally dating from the 12th and 13th centuries but restored on several occasions since) and the town tower. Built in the first half of the 13th century, the tower has been rebuilt several times over the course of the centuries. Internally it s divided into three storeys. It was one of the first of such towers to be fitted with a clock, during the domination of the Este dynasty in the early 16th century. Its bottom level was used as a prison from the 17th to 19th centuries, and since then its three storeys have been known as Inferno, Purgatory and Paradise after Dante s Divine Comedy. One of the tower s most (in)famous inmates was the bandit Stefano Pelloni, nom de guerre Il Passatore ( the ferryman ), who was imprisoned here in Curiously, the large nails driven into the wall at the base of the tower functioned as a kind of lost-andfound office. People finding lost items would hang them from the nails for their rightful owners to reclaim them. 2. Via Garibaldi On the left as we head along via Garibaldi in the direction of Porta Pieve is the 13th-century Torraccia, one of the oldest buildings in Bagnacavallo s historic centre. A little further along on the same side of the street are the church and monastery of San Giovanni, founded in 1336 by the Camaldolensian order. Rebuilt after the earthquake of 1688, in 1816 it came into the possession of its current owners, the nuns of the Capuchin order. In the early 19th century the monastery housed a renowned girls school. Lord Byron s daughter, Allegra, was an inmate of the school and died here while still a young child. A little further on, on the right, is the Memorial to the war dead. Founded by the Compagnia dei Battuti Bianchi in 1399, this church was rebuilt in the 18th century. Inside, the interesting painting of the Immaculate Conception dates from the same period. Before arriving at Porta Pieve, rebuilt in 1836 on the site of a much older building, you ll see on your left the 17thcentury Palazzo Tesorieri, formerly a convent of the Poor Clares. 3. Pieve di San Pietro in Sylvis The Pieve of San Pietro in Sylvis dates from the 7th century. One of the best-preserved of such parish churches in the whole province, it s a classic example of the architecture of the Byzantine exarchate. San Pietro in Sylvis has a simple façade of exposed brick. Inside, the crypt dates from the 11th century. In the apse are some impressive 14th-century frescoes by the Rimini school. The cippus altar is of Greek marble and dates from the late 6th century. In the crypt / oratory is a mensa altar, again of Greek marble, carried on colonettes and dating from the 6th/7th century. Opening hours: April: Friday and Saturday 4.30pm-6.30pm; Sunday 10amnoon, 4.30pm-6.30pm May-September: Thursday, Friday and Saturday 4.30pm- 6.30pm; Sunday 10am-noon, 4.30pm-6.30pm October: Friday and Saturday 2.30pm-4.30pm; Sunday 10am-noon, 2.30pm-4.30pm November-March: Friday 2.30pm-4.30pm, Sunday 10amnoon. LUGO 4. Corso Matteotti On the left as you enter corso Matteotti is Santa Maria delle Grazie, the church which introduced the Baroque style to Lugo. Behind its high and slender façade are some exceptional works of art by Ignatius Stern and Benedetto dal Buono. Further along the street (formerly the main thoroughfare of the ghetto which for centuries until the Second World War was home to a sizeable Jewish community) on the right stands Casa Marangoni, formerly the property of the counts of Barbiano and the dukes of Este: its richly-wrought façade combines medieval and Renaissance elements, although it owes its current appearance to a restoration of the 1930s. Further along on the same side of the street is one of Romagna s most historic buildings. Now the Hotel Ala d Oro, this 18th-century palazzo originally belonged to the aristocratic Rossi family and was birthplace of Cornelia Rossi Martinetti, a noblewoman, lover of belles lettres and central figure of one of the leading literary salons of the early 19th century. Poet Ugo Foscolo dedicated one of his Graces to her. At the end of the street rises the 18th-century church of the Suffragio. Inside are paintings by Ignatius Stern and local artists Benedetto del Buono and Carlo Ruina. 5. The town centre and Lotus park The best architecture in Lugo is to be found in the old town around piazza Martiri, piazza Baracca and piazza Trisi. Most imposing is the fortress, Rocca Estense, whose current appearance dates largely from the late 16th century when Alfonso II demolished the citadel to make way for a marketplace. Now the headquarters of the municipal government, its Assembly halls are of considerable historic interest. The magnificent roof garden on the south-west bastion dates from the late 18th/early 19th centuries. Open for group visits by prior appointment only ( ). Opposite the Rocca is the Pavaglione, an impressive four-sided portico completed in 1784 to accommodate the 36 37

24 then-flourishing market for silkworm cocoons. The weekly market (Wednesdays) now held in the Pavaglione is one of the oldest in the region. It s also one of the largest, and spills out onto the adjacent streets and squares. The precinct is also the venue for a biennial fair, all kinds of events and happenings and, on the second Sunday of every month, an antiques market. In the immediate vicinity of the Pavaglione is the monument to Francesco Baracca by sculptor Domenico Rambelli, unveiled in 1936 by the duke of Aosta. The monument features a bronze statue set on a pedestal commemorating the dates and locations of the victories of the Italian Air Ace. The backdrop is an enormous, 27-metre high fin of travertine in the form an aeroplane s wing. At the base of the wing are sculptures of a gryphon and a rampant colt this latter now world famous since its adoption as the logo of Ferrari. A short distance away in largo Baruzzi is the S. Onofrio oratory: of interest here are the scagliola cartouches with scenes from the life of St Onofrio painted by Ignatius Stern (also known as Ignazio Stella, a pupil of Cignani). The apse too is impressive for the works of art it contains. Opposite the Oratorio, in piazza Trisi, is another important religious building: the church of the Carmine, adjacent to the Carmelite monastery and dedicated to St Hilarus, patron of Lugo. Inside the church is a famous organ, built in 1797 by Gaetano Callido and once used for keyboard practice by the young Rossini. On the corner with via Emaldi is Palazzo Trisi, built in the second half of the 18th century and now home to a library whose collections number over 150,000 volumes. Nearby stands the Rossini theatre, built between 1757 and 1761 by architect Francesco Petrocchi with some assistance from Antonio Galli Bibiena. The sober neoclassical interior dates from In piazza Savonarola stands the Collegiate church, also known as San Francesco, built by architect Cosimo Morelli da Imola on the site of an earlier church dedicated to St Francis of Assisi. The interior of the church is neoclassical, while the adjacent cloister, formerly a part of the old monastery, dates from In the centre of the cloister is the original well head from The museum dedicated to Francesco Baracca (on via Baracca), one of the pioneers of Italian aviation, is now home to the SPAD VII, the aircraft built in 1917 in which Baracca bagged one of his 34 aerial victories. Also on display are a number of the aviator s personal effects and period documents. Open every day except Monday: 10am-noon / 4pm-6pm (tel / ). Closed August. The building on the corner of via Sassoli and corso Garibaldi is the A.N.G.E.L.O. vintage palace, which contains a museum of clothing and accessories. But Lugo has one more surprise in store, and it s a delightful one. Halfway down via Brignani is the entrance to the Lotus park: an oasis on the fringes of the town, it s named after the lotus that grows there. Not far from the entrance you ll find yourself immersed in a dense tangle of vegetation. Press on towards the centre of the park to see the lotus pond it s best appreciated in July and August when the plant is in bloom. For information call The gardens on via Brignani are open all year: Opening hours: summer 8am-11pm, winter 8am-6pm. The Lotus park proper is open from May to January 31: summer 8am-9pm, winter 8am-6pm. 6. Mill Canal - Washerwomen s Bridge Heading out of town along via Villa you come to the intersection with Canale dei Molini ( Mill canal ) and the Ponte delle Lavandaie ( Washerwomen s bridge ) one of the most characteristic spots in Lugo. Right into the 1950s, the women of the town could be seen washing their linen on the specially-built stairs at the base of the bridge. The vicinity of the bridge is a pleasant spot, with some unusual species of trees and shrubs. Mill canal was excavated between 1393 and 1396 with the objective of bringing water to the mills of Castel Bolognese. It was extended to Solarolo in 1446 and to Bagnara in 1468; not until much later did it reach Lugo and Fusignano. 7. Via dei Grilli This road is fringed by a large and distinctively Romagnol hedgerow of a type which has largely disappeared from the local countryside. It s a composite of various shrubs, including elder, hawthorn, dog rose and Jerusalem thorn (Paliurus spina-christi). The Podere Gagliardi estate is an agricultural area with typical drill cultivation methods which is well worth a look. The countryside is particularly vivid here with its orchards, wheat fields and vines grown according to the local viti maritate method, meaning they re trained on live trellises (i.e. other vegetation). BAGNARA DI ROMAGNA 8. The town centre and environs The walls of Bagnara are well preserved and well worth checking out. The foundations and accompanying ditch which fully encircle the town were the work of Barnabò Visconti, who conquered the village in In piazza IV Novembre stand the Sforza fortress and the Dean church, dedicated to St John the Baptist and St Andrew. The recently-restored fortress still retains its 14th

25 century defences, which were later strengthened under the dominion of the Manfredi dynasty and completed under Caterina Sforza at the end of the 15th century. Among the interesting features here are the keep, the central courtyard (now restored to its Renaissance aspect), the loggias which run round three quarters of the perimeter of the walls, and the cellars. Guided tours of the fortress are available by prior appointment. Call the Bagnara tourist information desk on Right across from the Rocca stands the Dean church, built on the site of the oratory of San Giovanni in With a single central nave, no aisles and a vaulted ceiling, the church was built in three different periods: remains of the original church (13th and 14th centuries) are still visible at the base of the walls. The second phase of building dates from 1653, when the eight side chapels were added. In the third phase ( ), under Cosimo Morelli the side chapels were redesigned and an alcove and altar were added to the apse and presbytery. The façade and campanile were restored after damage during the Second World War. There are two museums in the church: one dedicated to composer Pietro Mascagni, the other to religious art. Visits to the museums can be arranged by calling the parish priest on internationally reputed breeding farm for Saint Bernard dogs. Turning right into via Molinello after Palazzo Morsiani-Bernardi, a dirt track which can only be negotiated by cycle leads to the sanctuary of Madonna del Soccorso. Built to plans by Cosimo Morelli in 1766, the sanctuary is now a place of pilgrimage thanks to its terracotta statue of Madonna and Child standing above a pool whose waters are believed to work miracles. Restoration work in 1999 added a park, a classical garden and a water spout reminiscent of the aquatic artifices of the 18th century on the southern confines of the sanctuary. In the recently-repaved piazza Marconi are a number of buildings of historical interest, first of which is the Porta del Paese in the west side of the castle walls. Built in 1494, the gate was completely rebuilt after the Second World War. On the east side of the piazza is the 19th-century Palazzo Fabbri. Since recent rebuttressing and restoration work the palazzo has been converted into a hotel, Locanda di Bagnara. On the north side of the piazza stands the town hall. Like the nearby Porta del Paese, it was rebuilt almost from scratch after the Second World War. Over in piazza della Repubblica is Villa Beltrani-Rinaldi, built in the late 18th century and still intact with its original complement of house, stables and private chapel. Another important monument is the oratory of San Luigi Gonzaga, after which the adjacent piazza (Borgo di San Luigi) is named. If you re investigating the surrounding countryside, one place that s well worth a visit is Federici farm (via Cappelle, 1), whose extensive range of produce can be bought directly on the premises: choose from fruit (apples, cantaloupes and watermelons, plums, grapes, peaches and pears) or vegetables (e.g. shallots). Also on sale at the farm is a highly-prized local variety of pork, mora romagnola. All produce is IGP-certified, which attests to its local production. At via Pigno 7 is Beltrani farm, where fruit and vegetables are also on sale. At no. 36/A on the same road is a rural hotel adjacent to Passo Regina farm and selling a variety of farm produce, such as jams and peaches in syrup. Still on via Pigno, at no. 18 (about two kilometres outside Bagnara) is Palazzo Morsiani-Bernardi in its extensive grounds. Originally a fortified building dating from the 15th century, it was modified in the 18th century and on several later occasions. Since the post-war period it has been an 40 41

26 Route 5 BAGNACAVALLO - LUGO - BAGNARA DI ROMAGNA / CANAL AMD WATERMILL TRAIL DIRECTION NAME OF ROAD KM ROAD NOTES (km count) of streach SURFACE _ WHAT TO SEE Departure Bagnacavallo piazza della Libertà 00,00 flagstones departure point point - n. 1 buildings on km 00,00 piazza della Libertà L < via Garibaldi, where the cycle lane starts 0,31 asphalt careful: km 0,12 oncoming traffic - n. 2 buildings on via Garibaldi Straight ahead traffic lights at La Pieve shopping centre 0,72 asphalt km 0,43 cycle lane on pavement L < from Pieve roundabout take 0,46 asphalt careful: km 1,15 via Bagnoli Inferiore no cycle lane - n. 3 Pieve di San Pietro in Silvis R > via Bruciamolina 1,83 asphalt not a busy road km 1,61 L < via Confini Levante 0,97 asphalt km 3,44 R > junction with S. Vitale highway 0,34 asphalt dangerous intersection km 4,41 with no cycle lane on bridge - monument commemorating the offensive of 10 April 1945 which liberated Lugo Straight ahead viale Dante 1,39 asphalt be careful when km 4,75 start of cycle lane joining viale Dante as there is no cycle lane Straight ahead at the hospital roundabout follow 0,68 asphalt - n. 4 buildings on km 6,14 corso Matteotti corso Matteotti DIRECTION NAME OF ROAD KM ROAD NOTES (km count) of streach SURFACE _ WHAT TO SEE R > via Villa towards bridge 0,23 asphalt - n. 6 Canale dei Molini, km 8,12 ponte delle lavandaie L < via Canale Superiore Sinistra 1,42 asphalt km 8,35 grit Straight ahead via Canale Superiore Sinistra 0,72 asphalt dangerous junction! km 9,77 grit R > towards Zagonara church 0,30 asphalt fountain km 10,49 on via Zagonara L < via Castellazzo - via Grilli 1,94 asphalt - n. 7 Podere Gagliardi km 10,79 Straight ahead via Rio Fantino 1,38 asphalt km 12,73 grit Straight ahead junction at Gramola restaurant, 0,76 asphalt some unmetalled km 14,11 go past restaurant on via Canale grit stretches (careful with the uneven surface) Straight ahead junction 0,47 grit km 14,87 R > via Peschiera 1,39 asphalt km 15,34 L < via Lunga 0,22 asphalt km 16,73 R > via Giuliana direzione Bagnara 0,65 asphalt km 16,95 Arrival Bagnara di Romagna - via Matteotti -- asphalt end of route from here you can take a look around km 17,60 Bagnara and environs - n. 8 historic centre and countryside of Bagnara Straight ahead piazza Baracca and piazza dei Martiri 0,12 flagstones fountain beside km 6,82 (restricted traffic zone) Pavaglione next to at this point you might like to take the news kiosk a tour of the centre of Lugo before - n. 5 historic centre continuing towards Bagnara of Lugo and Parco del Loto L < leave piazza 0,08 asphalt careful with the traffic km 6,94 R > vicolo del Teatro and via Amendola 0,48 flagstones no cycle lane but km 7,02 asphalt the road is quite wide L < via Circondario Ponente 0,62 asphalt last stretch of the cycle km 7,50 lane is unmetalled. Careful with the cross-streets as cyclists have no priority

27 You ll need a good pair of legs for this route, which starts in the centre of Bagnacavallo and ends in Boscoforte, the peninsula which stretches for six kilometres into the marshes of Valli di Comacchio, one of the loveliest wetland areas in the Po delta. On the way it takes in Fusignano, native city of composer Arcangelo Corelli, and Alfonsine, birthplace of poet Vincenzo Monti, whose house now accommodates the visitors centre for the Po Delta nature Reserve. From piazza della Libertà 1 in the heart of Bagnacavallo take the cycle lane in via Garibaldi 2 (careful, as the normal direction of traffic is in the opposite direction) towards the junction with via Vittorio Veneto. 3 Head across the junction to via Fossa, cross this road and pick up via Guarno. Follow this road into via Rotondi, then turn left into via Stradello, 4 in the direction of Podere Pantaleone. 5 At the end of via Stradello turn right towards via Pieve Masiera. Follow this road all the way to the bridge at Fusignano 6 (be careful here, as there s no cycle lane on the bridge). As you come off the bridge over the Senio turn right into via dei Martiri, which leads into via Fiume di Sotto, a pleasant little road which runs along the bank of the Senio. Keep on the riverbank until you get to Alfonsine, where via Fiume di Sotto changes name to via Mameli. 7 From via Mameli turn left into via Borse and then right into via Pisacane. Cross the bridge to the right bank of the Senio and take the dirt track in the direction of the Adriatica highway. After crossing the main road follow via Destra Senio to Fornace Violani, the first of three stations which comprise the Alfonsine nature reserve. 8 Keep on via Destra Reno until you come to the ramp which leads to the riverbank. Keep on the bank until descending to the picturesque ferry crossing to the other side of the Reno, and you re now in the wetlands of the Po Delta nature reserve and the lovely peninsula of Boscoforte. 9 ROUTE 6 ART AND NATURE TOUR Departure: Bagnacavallo Arrival:Penisola di Boscoforte Route: Bagnacavallo - Fusignano - Alfonsine - Boscoforte Length: km 30 Difficulty: medium 42 43

28 WHAT TO SEE BAGNACAVALLO 1. Piazza della Libertà Overlooking piazza della Libertà is the neoclassical town hall, built in 1791 to a design by Cosimo Morelli. Next door is the elegant Goldoni theatre. Opened in 1845, the interior is sumptuously decorated with stuccoes and frescoes. The impressive tempera backdrop by Bolognese painter Antonio Muzzi is a typical example of the 19th-century vogue for drama-drenched history painting. On the west side of the piazza are Palazzo Vecchio (originally dating from the 12th and 13th centuries but restored on several occasions since) and the town tower. Built in the first half of the 13th century, the tower has been rebuilt several times over the course of the centuries. Internally it s divided into three storeys. It was one of the first of such towers to be fitted with a clock, during the domination of the Este dynasty in the early 16th century. Its bottom level was used as a prison from the 17th to 19th centuries, and since then its three storeys have been known as Inferno, Purgatory and Paradise after Dante s Divine Comedy. One of the tower s most (in)famous inmates was the bandit Stefano Pelloni, nom de guerre Il Passatore, who was imprisoned here in Via Garibaldi On the left as we head along via Garibaldi in the direction of Porta Pieve is the 13th-century Torraccia, one of the oldest buildings in Bagnacavallo s historic centre. A little further along on the same side of the street are the church and monastery of San Giovanni, founded in 1336 by the Camaldolensian order. Rebuilt after the earthquake of 1688, in 1816 the monastery came into the possession of its current owners, the nuns of the Capuchin order. In the early 19th century the monastery housed a renowned girls school. Lord Byron s daughter, Allegra, was an inmate of the school and died here while still a young child. A little further on, on the right, is the Memorial to the war dead. Founded by the friars of the Battuti Bianchi in 1399, this church was rebuilt in the 18th century. Inside, the interesting painting of the Immaculate Conception dates from the same period. Before arriving at Porta Pieve, rebuilt in 1836 on the site of a much older building, you ll see on your left the 17th-century Palazzo Tesorieri, formerly a convent of the Poor Clares. 3. Le Cappuccine cultural centre This cultural centre occupies a former 18th-century convent of the Capuchin Sisters, hence its name. The kitchen garden of the convent is now a public park. The centre is home to an impressive collection of antique and modern art, and has a library and important historical archive. Well worth seeing are the rooms containing the works of contemporary artist Enzo Morelli a native of Bagnacavallo and the sections dedicated to two important men of letters and also natives of Bagnacavallo: Thomaso Garzoni and Leo Longanesi. Le Cappuccine is also home to a prints library with an exceptionally rich collection of engravings and a busy exhibition schedule. Most of the museum, however, is dedicated to contemporary painting. Open Tuesday to Sunday Opening hours: April-September: 10am-noon / 4pm-7pm; October-March: 10am-noon / 3pm-6pm Closed Mondays and days after public holidays, 1-20 August, Christmas day and New Year s day. 4. Golfari farm Golfari farm (via Stradello, 9/a) is a member of Il Bagnacavallo co-operative and is open to visitors. A family-run farm, it s mainly planted with vines and fruit trees. Available for sale directly on the premises are peaches, honey and wine both red (Bursôn, etichetta Blu and etichetta Nera ) and white ( Passito degli Stradelli ). Tel Podere Pantaleone environmental reserve Not far from the centre of Bagnacavallo is Podere Pantaleone, a kind of open-air museum of nature extending over an area of six hectares. It s an environmental reserve in which the idea is to allow the natural ecology of the region to reestablish itself. The reserve is on the site of an old farm which lay abandoned for several decades. During this time the resident vegetation has sprawled freely over the estate, and the result is an oasis of exceptionally luxuriant greenery punctuated here and there with grassy clearings. It all makes an ideal environment for the local fauna to flourish unchallenged by human encroachment, and Podere Pantaleone is now a happy breeding ground for hundreds of species of birds, beetles, butterflies, amphibians, reptiles and mammals. The reserve is open to visitors from early spring through late autumn; for information and guided visits contact the local tourist information bureau on Tel FUSIGNANO 6. The town centre and environs The birthplace of composer Arcangelo Corelli ( ), Fusignano numbers among its places of interest the town museum San Rocco (Via Monti 5/a, in the centre of town). This 16th-century building was originally a pilgrim s hospice before later becoming an infirmary for the poor. The museum has a particularly interesting collection of ceramic devotional plaques dating from the 16th to the 20th centuries. Over 200 plaques from Italy, Spain and France are on show. The plaques from central Italy are of particular interest, especially those from Deruta and Castelli. Also exceptional are the specimens from Tuscany and from Romagna, which is represented with pieces from the celebrated Fabbrica Ferniani in Faenza. The museum is open from 3pm to 6pm on 44 45

29 Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays. Closed on Christmas day, New Year s day and 15 August. Guided visits are available by prior appointment. Tel / At the junction of Mill canal with the road leading from Fusignano to the village of Maiano Monti is Calcagnini mill. This mill, which probably dates from the 14th century, was supplied with water via a conduit from the river Senio. Nowadays the mill is the property and workshop of wrought iron craftsman Giovanni Martini. Sights worth seeing in Maiano include the parish church of Santa Maria del Pilaro and Villa Monti. The church is at the junction of via Maiano and via Marocche. Inside are paintings and frescoes by Bergamini (for visits contact Lucia Bellosi on ). Not far from the church is Villa Monti, set in a pleasant park. Built in 1717, it was bought in 1769 by Fedele Monti, father of the poet Vincenzo Monti. Inside, the walls of the villa are decorated with tempera landscapes painted in 1812 by Giovanni Monti, nephew of Vincenzo, before his move to Rome where he fraternized with Gianbattista Bassi and Massimo D'Azeglio (for visits contact Giovanni Tazzari on ). Out in the green countryside at via Canale 12 is La Marchesa riding centre, a riding school offering classes in horsemanship and show jumping. The villa on the estate has a collection of horse-drawn carriages. Tel Randi farm in via San Savino 113 is a member of Il Bagnacavallo wine co-operative and produces Bursôn red ( etichetta Blu and etichetta Nera ) and Passito Randi, a white. Tel ALFONSINE 7. The town centre and environs Alfonsine was heavily bombarded during the Second World War. Its museum of the Battle on the Senio in piazza della Resistenza documents the bloody battle for the river Senio of 10 April 1945, with pictures and testimonies of the resistance struggle and the last year of the war in Romagna. Opening hours: Monday-Friday 9am-noon, 3pm-6pm. Tel Also open at weekends from March to May. Closed August. landscape and scenery of the Romagna plain. Opening hours November-March: Monday-Friday 9am-1pm. April-October: Tuesday-Friday 9am-1pm, 2.30pm-5pm; Saturday 9am-1pm. Tel./fax Alfonsine nature reserve Alfonsine nature reserve is a refuge for marshland flora and fauna occupying an area of around 12 hectares. The reserve is divided into three different stations in which the natural ecology is being encouraged to return since the departure of their human occupants: the Fornace Violani pond is a former clay quarry which is now home to marsh turtles, herons and moor hens; the grove of the three Canals is a small wood of white poplars and marsh spurge; and the Mill canal wood is a strip of vegetation between an 18th-century canal sluice called chiavicone and the Reno river, along which grow some beautiful wide orchids. 9. Boscoforte peninsula Boscoforte peninsula is a narrow tongue of sand no more than a stone s throw wide and one of the most spectacular places in the whole Po delta, projecting for six kilometres into the Adriatic from the bank of the Reno. The local vegetation is an exuberant tangle of tamarisks and many other species found in salty environments: broom, limonium, purselane, fen star sedge, alkaligrass and black poplars. Among the bird species which nest here are black-winged stilts, avocets, spoonbills, sheldrakes, shovelers, garganeys, redshanks, godwits and coral seagulls. Migratory species include coots by the thousand and ducks such as the tufted duck, pochard, teal, pin-tail and gadwalls. Just outside Alfonsine at via Passetto 1 is the birthplace of poet Vincenzo Monti (Alfonsine 1754 Milan 1828). Casa Monti is a fine example of 18th century architecture and has been open to the public since 1998 after careful restoration. On the ground floor is an environmental education office while upstairs is the museum dedicated to the poet, one of the greats of Italian neoclassicism. Included among its artefacts are period furnishings, including a cradle, paintings, personal effects and some first editions of the poet s works. Downstairs, the environmental education office serves as a visitors centre for the Alfonsine nature reserve and information desk for the Delta del Po natural park; inside the centre is a small permanent exhibition dedicated to the 46 47

30 Route 6 BAGNACAVALLO - FUSIGNANO - ALFONSINE - PENISOLA DI BOSCOFORTE / ART AND NATURE TOUR DIRECTION NAME OF ROAD KM ROAD NOTES (km count) of streach SURFACE _ WHAT TO SEE Departure Bagnacavallo piazza della Libertà 00,00 flagstones departure point point - n. 1 buildings on km 00,00 piazza della Libertà L < towards via Garibaldi 00,10 flagstones km 00,00 L < follow via Garibaldi 00,02 asphalt - n. 2 buildings on km 00,10 via Garibaldi R > towards via Vittorio Veneto 00,18 asphalt - n. 3 Le Cappuccine km 00,12 cultural centre Straight ahead at junction with via Fossa cross 00,20 asphalt km 00,30 in the direction of via Guarno Straight ahead follow via Rotondi 00,40 asphalt km 00,50 R > turn into via Stradello 04,10 asphalt - n. 4 Golfari farm km 00,90 towards Podere Pantaleone - n. 5 Podere Pantaleone L < at the junction with 01,60 asphalt km 05,00 via Sinistra Fosso Munio take via Stradello in the direction of Masiera R > at the end of via Stradello take 01,10 asphalt dangerous crossing km 06,60 via Pieve Masiera (SP 09) at SP 09 Straight ahead cross the bridge in the direction of 00,30 asphalt dangerous junction; km 07,70 Fusignano (via Pieve Masiera SP 09) no cycle lane from here you can leave the route on bridge to take a look around Fusignano - n. 6 Fusignano R > after you come off the bridge 00,30 asphalt km 08,00 cut back into via dei Martiri Straight ahead now follow via Fiume al di Sotto 00,70 asphalt km 08,30 along the Senio Straight ahead fountain on left side of road 00,50 asphalt fountain on left km 09,00 side of road R > keep on via Fiume al di Sotto 06,90 asphalt km 09,50 (at Alfonsine it becomes via Mameli), ignoring via Stroppata L < turn into via Borse 00,10 asphalt - n. 7 Alfonsine km 16,40 from here you can leave the route to take a look around Alfonsine DIRECTION NAME OF ROAD KM ROAD NOTES (km count) of streach SURFACE _ WHAT TO SEE Straight ahead crossing on highway (SS 16 Adriatica) 00,10 asphalt km 17,50 R > keep on the verge 00,10 asphalt km 17,60 L < cycle lane in the direction of 01,40 asphalt hazardous crossing km 17,70 via Destra Senio Straight ahead Alfonsine nature reserve 02,10 asphalt - n. 8 Alfonsine km 19,10 station, Fornace Violani, 1 nature reserve Straight ahead junction with via Destra Senio 02,40 asphalt km 21,20 go straight ahead, ignoring the signs for Conventello and Sant Alberto Straight ahead follow via Destra Senio towards 00,70 asphalt gravel surface begins km 23,60 the river bank and the bridge over Destra Reno canal Straight ahead follow via Destra Reno to the ramp 00,40 gravel km 24,30 leading to the river Reno Straight ahead follow the bank of the river Reno 00,20 gravel km 24,70 on the left the rivers Senio and Reno join up Straight ahead follow the bank of the river Reno 02,00 gravel km 24,90 Straight ahead follow the bank of the river Reno 01,50 gravel barrier on the river bank km 26,90 Straight ahead end of the riverside path 00,10 dirt barrier on the river bank km 28,40 L < path descends to ferry over the Reno 00,10 asphalt and km 28,50 gravel km 28,60 take the ferry across the Reno R > ramp leading up to river bank 00,10 asphalt km 28,60 (Valli di Comacchio) R > start of Valli di Comacchio bank 00,60 gravel - n. 9 Boscoforte km 29,30 towards sea peninsula L < ramp leading off river bank 00,10 gravel km 29,90 Valli to Boscoforte Arrival Boscoforte peninsula end of route km 30,00 R > turn into via Pisacane 00,21 asphalt km 16,50 L < cross the bridge and take the grit / km 16,71 right bank of the Senio in the direction dirt of the SS Adriatica highway

31 Earth and water are the key elements of this route. It s a route which is best enjoyed at an easy pace, giving you time to appreciate the scenery to the full, with its cultivated fields, reclaimed marshes and intact wetlands, salt-water lagoons and pine woods. The presence of water dominates the entire countryside: the precious fresh water of the Lamone which irrigates the earth, and the salt water of the placid Adriatic, for centuries the hunting ground of the fishing communities of the Romagnol coast. So pedal easy and let the scenery set the pace. Rustic farmhouses, villas, lingering remains of a bygone wetlands culture, fishing cabins, aquatic plants and an incredible variety of often rare birdlife will do the rest. ROUTE 7 DOWN THE LAMONE TOWARDS THE SEA * Departure: Bagnacavallo Arrival: Punte Alberete and Marina Romea beach Length: km 35 Departure point for this route is piazza della Libertà 1 in the heart of Bagnacavallo. From here, take via Matteotti 2 as far as the roundabout and then head right on the cycle lane running along via Di Vittorio. At the traffic lights, cross the San Vitale main road and head straight on into via Boncellino. Follow this road for about 3 kilometres until you come to via Muraglione. Keep on via Muraglione up to the junction with via Sottofiume, which runs along the left bank of the Lamone. 3 Here, take the ramp onto the riverbank and the first stopping place on the route. Continue left, following the riverbank (except where you have to negotiate road and railway cuttings) towards Traversara; note the old tower on the left. 4 After about 3 kilometres you ll come to the bridge over the river in the centre of Traversara. At this point you ve covered around 8 kilometres. Stay up on the riverbank, and after a few hundred metres you ll come to a second stopping place. From here there are about 5 kilometres to the centre of Villanova. 5 On the way from Traversara to Villanova note the villas on the left. 6 About two kilometres beyond Villanova the riverbank path is closed for a private function on Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays and you have to detour off the river. Just follow the signs. Now rejoin the left bank towards Glorie 7 and Mezzano and go under the bridge on the Adriatica highway which marks the boundary with Ravenna. Follow the riverbank (there s a stopping place on the way) as far as the Grattacoppa bridge. You ve now come around 20 kilometres. Still following the left bank of the Lamone, after about 5.5 kilometres you ll come to the bridge at the Sant Alberto provincial main road. 8 Cross the bridge (careful as there s no cycle lane) and join the cycle lane by the right bank of the river which leads to Punte Alberete reserve. 9 You re now in the heart of the Po Delta nature Reserve. 10 Continue for another 5.5 kilometres up to the bridge over the Romea highway. 31 clicks on the clock now! At this point there are two routes possible: left into Valle Mandriole 11 by the bridge over the Romea highway, or seawards: cross under the highway and follow the right bank (to your left you ll see traditional fisherman s huts and to your right, Pialassa Baiona 12 ) all the way to the seashore of Marina Romea. 13 Difficulty: medium Surface: dirt track for 90% of the way, best suited for mountain bikes * this route is negotiable as of spring

32 WHAT TO SEE 1. Piazza della Libertà Overlooking piazza della Libertà is the neoclassical town hall, built in 1791 to a design by Cosimo Morelli. Beside the palazzo is the impressive Goldoni theatre. Opened in 1845, the interior is sumptuously decorated with stuccoes and frescoes. The impressive tempera backdrop by Bolognese painter Antonio Muzzi is a typical example of the 19th-century vogue for drama-drenched history paintings. On the west side of the piazza stand Palazzo Vecchio (originally dating from the 12th and 13th centuries but restored on several occasions since) and the town tower. Built in the first half of the 13th century, the tower has been rebuilt several times over the course of the centuries. Internally it s divided into three storeys. It was one of the first of such towers to be fitted with a clock, during the domination of the Este dynasty in the early 16th century. Its bottom level was used as a prison from the 17th to 19th centuries, and since then its three storeys have been known as Inferno, Purgatory and Paradise after Dante s Divine Comedy. One of the tower s most (in)famous inmates was the bandit Stefano Pelloni, nom de guerre Il Passatore ( The Ferryman ), who was imprisoned here in Curiously, the large nails driven into the wall at the base of the tower functioned as a kind of lost-and-found office. People finding lost items would hang them from the nails for their rightful owners to reclaim them. 2. Corso Matteotti - Palazzo Capra Palazzo Papini later known as palazzo Capra dates from the 17th century. The façade rises from a flared basement level with windows decorated with raised mouldings and scrolls on the ground floor, while the windows of the piano nobile above are topped with triangular and round pediments. Crowning the façade is a cornice carried on modillions. The entrance leads into a broad atrium and court. From here a grand staircase with stuccoes and frescoed vaults leads to the apartments of the piano nobile. Queen Christina of Sweden stayed at Palazzo Papini-Capra in 1662 during her journey to Rome. 3. The river Lamone The ancient Anemo cited by Pliny the Elder (23 79 AD) in his Naturalis Historia, the Lamone rises near Colla di Casaglia in the Apennines and drains into the Adriatic over a course of some 100 kilometres. On its way across the plain of Romagna to the sea it passes Casalborsetti, Marina Romea, Marradi, Brisighella, Faenza, Bagnacavallo and Russi. And it s namechecked in Dante s Divine Comedy, where the poet describes Faenza as the city of the Lamone. 4. Traversara - the tower The tower of Traversara was built in 1371 by the Ercolani family. When the Ercolani built their own palazzo in the centre of Bagnacavallo, the tower became their summer retreat, a function which it continued to perform right through to the 19th century. It was modified in 1717 and again in Badly damaged by the bombardments of 1944, the tower has since been partially rebuilt. 5. Villanova Museum of marsh grasses Villanova di Bagnacavallo is the local capital of reed crafts. This excellent museum has recovered and conserved an exceptional local heritage of the many methods of working marsh grasses, and is a good introduction to the traditional marshland culture. Special attention goes to the timehonoured techniques of reed work which flourished in the small community of Villanova from the 14th century until as recently as the 1970s. The museum organizes workshops for those wishing to learn the techniques, and every year in the second fortnight of September hosts a reed crafts fair. 6. Casa Baldi Randi, la Cagnazza, la Bubana Casa Baldi Randi was built in 1850 as a country retreat for cardinal Lorenzo Randi, a native of Bagnacavallo then living in Rome. Architecturally the house is typical of the Veneto-Ferrara taste in country villas, with a large atrium opening onto numerous reception rooms. Adjacent to the villa is the oratory of Our Lady of the Assumption. La Cagnazza owes its rather strange nickname ( The Cur ) to the sculptural feature in the form of a dog on the top of the façade facing the river. La Bubana, built in the late 18th century, La Bubana seems to have originally been a monastery. Like La Cagnazza, it has a curious name, perhaps a conflation of the surname of its owners, the Bubani, and an expression in the local dialect, bubâna, meaning abundance. 7. Glorie - Villa Savoia Villa Savoia was built in the 17th and 18th centuries and is now the property of the diocese of Faenza. It comprises a palazzo, which now serves as a rectory, and an oratory. The hall of the palazzo is decorated with two large tempera paintings by Tomaso Bibiena. The oratory, restored in 1987, has some interesting Baroque decor

33 8. Sant'Alberto Just 3 km off the main road, Sant Alberto is well worth the detour. The village looks over the marshes of Valli di Comacchio which can be reached by the ferry over the river Reno, the former Po di Primaro. Local buildings of note include the house in which poet Olindo Guerrini lived and the Palazzone, built in 1600 and originally an inn for wayfarers, travelling salesmen and pilgrims. Today it houses the visitors centre for Po Delta nature Reserve and the Alfredo Brandolini natural science museum. 9. Punte Alberete reserve Punte Alberete is a semi-submerged forest with a unique ambience whose appeal derives from the combination of wetland vegetation, submerged grasslands, the occasional dry clearing, and the flora and fauna typical of an exceptionally rich marsh ecology. The reeds and grasses of Punte Alberete are home to much rare flora and are the nesting grounds of some rare bird species. 12. Pialassa Baiona Pialassa Baiona is a large saltwater lagoon irrigated by a network of canals lined by some typical fisherman s cabins. The mounds that emerge from the water shelter some very rare plant species (glasswort, limonium etc.) as well as many types of birds (black-winged stilts, avocets, little egrets, herons). 13. Marina Romea Immersed in green and sheltered by the ancient pine forest, with sweeping beaches and charming villas, Marina Romea is one of prettiest shorelines on the whole coast. 10. Po Delta nature Reserve Po Delta nature Reserve is a protected estuary system with an area of nearly 60,000 hectares which preserve all the ecological riches of the Po delta. The reserve spreads over two provinces, Ferrara and Ravenna. There s a lot in here: remnants of primitive Mediterranean macchia, fenland, coastal lagoons, dunes, salt marshes, freshwater wetland. There are also Etruscan and Roman remains, Byzantine mosaics, and medieval relics of the Benedictines and the Este dynasty: a microcosm, in other words, of the natural and cultural attractions of this part of the Po valley. Best time to visit is spring or summer when some rare plant species are in bloom, such as water lily, hawthorn, march iris, spring snowflakes, rushes, and yellowflag. Over 280 types of birds have been identified in the reserve. Of these, half use the reserve as their nesting ground while the other half stop here en route between northern Europe and Africa. They include pink flamingos, grey, pink and white herons, little egrets, black-winged stilts, curlew sandpipers, tufted ducks, woodcocks, kingfishers, and squacco heron. Tel Valle Mandriole (Valle della Canna) This protected freshwater marsh was once part of the Lamone reclamation basin along with Punte Alberete. From the viewing tower on the perimeter of the marsh the landscape is an almost endless extent of rushes punctuated with clearings here and there. It s the ideal place for spotting heron (white, pink or grey), grebes and marsh hawks

34 INFORMATION FOR VISITORS Code number for Italy:+39 TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE Piazza della Libertà Bagnacavallo (RA) Tel /888/819 - Fax turismobagnacavallo@provincia.ra.it LUGO CYCLE GUIDE ASSOCIATION Via Rossetta Bagnacavallo (RA) Tel cicloguidelugo@virgilio.it BIKE HIRE Agriturismo Celti e Centurioni Via Crocetta 10, Bagnacavallo - Tel Free use of bikes for guests Bed & Breakfast Casa Cortesi Via Glorie 150, Villanova di Bagnacavallo - Tel Free use of bikes for guests Casa Conti Guidi Via Boncellino 113, Bagnacavallo - Tel Bikes and binoculars for hire Hotel Gemelli Via F.lli Bedeschi 43, Bagnacavallo - Tel Bikes for hire for guests CONNECTIONS AND DISTANCES Bagnacavallo is in Ravenna s province, 23 kilometres away from Ravenna itself, 17 from Faenza, 55 from Bologna and about 30 from the Adriatic Sea. The city is at the crossroads of Strada Provinciale San Vitale (which connects Bologna to Ravenna) and Strada Provinciale Naviglio. Motorway: the A14 bis Bagnacavallo exit and, about 12 kilometres away there, is the Faenza exit (A14). Bagnacavallo is on the Bologna Ravenna train route. The nearest airports are Bologna, Forlì and Rimini. Ostello Antico Convento di San Francesco Via Cadorna 10, Bagnacavallo - Tel Free use of bikes for guests Ferrara Bologna Bagnacavallo Venezia Ravenna MILANO FIRENZE VENEZIA BOLOGNA RAVENNA FORLI RIMINI Imola ROMA Faenza Forlì Cesena Firenze Roma Rimini 54 55

35 Municipal council of Bagnacavallo Tourist information Piazza della Libertà, Bagnacavallo (RA) Tel