A Romanian Easter. April - May bucharest.inyourpocket.com

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1 18 SACRED PLAces sacred places 19 Bucharest s vast selection of historic churches is unquestionably one of the city s finest features. Given that the city has been through so much over the past 50 years or so, from earthquakes to systemisation and the razing of huge areas of the Romanian capital to make way for the Centru Civic, it is in many ways astonishing that so many churches have survived. In some cases, churches had to be moved - some more than 300 metres - in order to be saved from the bulldozers. The Antim Monastery church, below, was one such building. You may also notice that a large number of Bucharest s churches are hidden from street view: this is quite deliberate, and a result of the communist regime s policy of keeping religion at arm s length. Large apartment blocks would be built around churches in order to keep them out of sight, if not entirely out of mind. As well as those listed here, see the Old Town feature on (which starts on page 72) for details of Bucharest s Old Court Church. For Synagogues, see Jewish Bucharest, page 70. Antim Monastery (Manastirea Antim) B-6, Str. Antim 29. The Antim Monastery, with its elegant dome and gold finish was constructed between 1708 and 1715 on the orders of polymath Antim Ivireanul, patriarch of the Orthodox Church in Wallachia at the time. Antim originally intended the monastery to be a refuge for fallen women and refugees, as well as a seat of learning. The monastery church is particularly worth admiring, for its sumptuous icons featuring scenes from the Nativity and Revelations, painted in 1812 by Petre Alexandrescu. The bell tower through which we today enter the monastery was added in Apostles Church (Biserica Sfintii Apostoli) B-6, Str. Sfintii Apostoli 33A, MPiata Unirii. One of the oldest churches in Bucharest (with parts dating back to the 16th century, when it served as the church of the Târnovului Monastery) the Apostles Church is notable for its sublime steeple, built in 1715, and restored in Inside the church is brimming with some rather strange portraits, all of which are well worth seeing. Among the portraits are those of the church s founder, Voivod Matei. Armenian Church (Biserica Armenească) D-5, B-dul Carol I 43, tel. (+4) , Now overlooked by a skyscraper, this is one of the largest and best preserved Orthodox churches in central Bucharest. Built between it is an exact replica of a cathedral in the Armenian city of Ecmiazin.QOpen 09:00-18:00, Sun 08:00-13:00. Baraţiei Church (Biserica Sf. Maria Baraţiei ) C-6, Str. Baratiei 27, MUnirii. Almost poking into Bulevardul Bratianu, this Roman-Catholic church was built in 1828, although there has been a church here since the late 1590s. Boasting a couple of superb stained-glass windows the church holds services in Romanian and Hungarian. The name, Baratiei, derives from the Hungarian word for friend, barat. Colţea Church (Biserica Colţea) C-5, B-dul Nicolae Bălcescu 1, MUniversitate. To the left (face on) of the Colţea hospital, the church of the same name was built from on the site of a much older, wooden construction. Recent renovation has restored much of the rich ornamentation of the interior. Creţulescu Church (Biserica Creţulescu) C-5, Calea Victoriei 47, MUniversitate. Probably the most celebrated historic church in Bucharest. Biserica Creţulescu was raised from by Iordache Creţulescu and his wife Safta, a daughter of Romanian humanitarian Constantin Brâncoveanu. The outstanding paintings on the entrance are original, the work of an unknown artist, while the interior icons were added in 1859 by Gheorghe Tattarescu. Damaged during the fighting of December 1989, the church has recently been restored to its full glory, and is a must. Domniţa Balaşa Church (Biserica Domniţa Balaşa) B-6, Str. Sfintii Apostoli, MPiata Unirii. To say this church has been the victim of bad luck is an understatement. Built in 1885, the church is named after Constantin Brâncoveanu s sixth daughter, who built an earlier church on the site in 1744, but which burnt down soon after. In 1751 a second church was built; but that was also later damaged, during an earthquake in Building work almost immediately started on a third church, but that too proved unstable and just 40 years later it was replaced by the current, orange-coloured, Neo- Romanesque building. Serious cracks that appeared after another earthquake in 1940 were repaired in the 1960s, only to be damaged again in the massive earthquake of Icon Church (Biserica Icoanei) C-4, Str. Icoanei 12. The Church of the Icon is named after the 17th century icon of the Holy Virgin in the nave, a gift from Constantin Brâncoveanu. A wooden church was built on this site in as early A brick church, erected in , collapsed during the devastating earthquake of Rebuilt the same year, the high altar was added in Mihai Vodă Monastery (Mănăstirea Mihai Vodă) B-6, Str. Sapienţei 2, MIzvor. Another of the churches that was moved to make way for the Civic Centre, Mihai Vodă was originally built in After a fire in 1761 it was left to rot before thorough rebuilding was carried out from In 1985 it was moved 285 metres east - on rails - and hidden in its present location behind the apartment blocks. New St. George s Church (Biserica Sf. Gheorghe Nou) C-6, Piata Sf. Gheorghe, MPiata Unirii. The largest of the churches built in Bucharest during the reign of Constantin Brâncoveanu, New St. George s Church was consecrated on June 29th, It was a wonder of the age, having been designed by an Italian, Vaseleli, and decorated by the great Romanian maestros of the times: the painter Mutu, the carpenter Istrate and the sculptor Caragea. Damaged in a fire in 1847, the church was renovated from by the Spanish architect Villacrosse. Patriarchal Cathedral (Patriarhia) C-6/7, Str. Dealul Mitropoliei, MPiata Unirii. Known as Mitropoliei, the Patriarchal Cathedral has been the centrepiece of the Romanian Orthodox faith since the seventeenth century. Built to a design based on the Curtea de Arges, near Pitesti, it has undergone a number of facelifts, but the overwhelming majority of the cathedral s structure is the original, built between 1654 and The outstanding bell-tower at the entrance was built in 1698, and restored in Next to the church - and closed to the public - is the Patriarchal Palace, residence of Daniel Ciobotea, the Patriarch of the Romanian Orthodox Church. Radu Vodă Monastery (Mănăstirea Radu Vodă) C-6, Str. Radu Vodă 24A, MPiata Unirii. There was originally a wooden church on this site, built during the reign of Mihnea the Bad, around The monastery was added in 1570, and was dedicated to the Holy Trinity. The present church dates from , though it was extensively rebuilt during the 19th-century, when the frescoes (all the work of peerless painter Gheorghe Tattarescu) were added. A Romanian Easter Easter in Romania is a big deal. Seriously big. Make sure you are well prepared to run the gamut of traditions old and new, endless plates of food and religious posturing with our off-beat but essential look at Easter in Romania. For most of the world, Easter falls on April 7th this year. For the Orthodox Christian world, however, of which Romania is a part, Easter comes a little later. Why? Because when calculating the date of Easter, the starting date used by Orthodox priests is taken from the Julian calendar, and not the Gregorian calendar. In Romania only Easter is affected: in Russia, Serbia, Belarus and Ukraine (and other major Orthodox countries) Christmas is also calculated using the Julian calendar. In Romania, in keeping with its usual, half-knacked way of doing things, Christmas is calculated with one calendar, Easter another. All that really matters is that in Romania, Easter Sunday this year falls on April 14th. And note that because in Orthodox circles the resurrection is more important than the crucifixion - one of the main differences between the Orthodox and Western churches - Good Friday is not a holiday in Romania. According to tradition, there shall be no partying, no weddings, no having fun and not a great deal of anything in fact during Lent, unflinchingly observed by many in Romania, right up until midnight on April 14th. Only when the priest emerges from his church with a candle (around 00:10) to declare that Hristos a înviat (Christ has risen) can the faithful who have abstained from smiling, sex or chocolate for the past 40 days once again indulge their desires. And then only after the biggest meal of the year. That meal will invariably be lamb (miel). Indeed, Easter is the one time of the year Romanians eat lamb, and it can easily be found in shops. Every part of the lamb is used: the head goes in the soup, the organs are used to make drob (a kind of paté), and the legs are slowly roasted in red wine and served with roast potatoes and spinach. You should also be prepared to eat more than a few hard boiled eggs. Before the main meal (which, we have yet to mention, gets eaten after the return from midnight mass, at around 1am) eggs are cracked. Dyed in bright colours (often, but not always red) on Good Friday, hard boiled eggs are cracked between family members with the words Hristos a înviat (Christ has risen). The correct response is Adevărat a înviat (He has truly risen). The eggs should then be eaten. As each family member should crack at least one egg with every other member of the family, it can all go a bit Cool Hand Luke very quickly. Pudding is usually pască: a flat cheesecake with raisins. Note that the Hristos a înviat / Adevărat a înviat exchange becomes the standard greeting between Romanians for the first few days after Easter. In fact, Romanians who have not seen each other since Easter may use it weeks, even months after. The best place to witness an Easter service in Romania is at one of the historic churches we feature here. Note that while the service notionally gets underway shortly before midnight, if you want a seat, or even just want to get inside, you will need to be at the church by around 21:00. Bring a candle: the priest will light it with the candle he emerges from the sanctuary with at midnight.

2 20 BUCHAREST IN BLOOM BUCHAREST IN BLOOM 21 Buildings With A History Arcul de Triumf A-2, Piata Arcul de Triumf. Bucharest s Arc de triumf was raised in 1922 to commemorate Romania s World War I dead. The original Arc was made of wood, replaced by the present, Petru Antonescu designed concrete structure only in Standing 25 metres high, the Arc has a staircase that allows visitors to climb to the terrace on the top of the monument, though it is strangely closed most of the time and only opened on special occasions. The sculptures and reliefs that decorate the monument (and which need serious restoring) were created by the leading artists of the day, including Ion Jalea, Constantin Medrea and Constantin Baraschi. The Arc is scheduled to be renovated this year, and a pedestrian underpass built which will allowing people to get to it without risking their lives. Bucharest is blessed with some fantastic parks. Indeed, so much has been invested in them in recent years (especially in playgrounds for kids and recreational facilities) that they are quickly becoming one of the city s biggest attractions. Botanical Gardens (Grădina Botanică) Sos. Cotroceni 32, tel. (+4) , ro. Bucharest s Botanical Gardens were founded in 1860 with the significant financial backing of Prince Alexandru Ioan Cuza, at the time the leader of the nascent Romanian state. Completed in 1866 to the designs and instructions of Ulrich Hoffmann, they were originally in the grounds of the Cotroceni Monastery, moving to their present location in The garden, administratively part of Bucharest University s Botanical Institute, today extends over an area of more than 17 hectares, and hosts more than 10,000 species of plants, approximately half of which are cultivated in the impressive glasshouses. Of particular note are the exotic flowers (more than 1000 are on display) and the bizarre Symphytum ottomanum, a plant which can appear to vanish without trace only to reappear up to 50 metres away. Many locals like to take advantage of the bargain entrance fee and use the exterior of the gardens as a park, and thus the place can often be far more full with courting couples than with lovers of more floral delights. Whatever your reasons for going, it s a terrific place to spend an afternoon. QOpen 08:00-20:00. Admission 5.00 lei, students and children 2.00 lei. Atheneum (Ateneul Român) C-5, Str. Benjamin Franklin 1-3, tel. (+4) /(+4) , Possibly the finest building in the city, the Romanian Atheneum was the work of French architect Albert Galleron, who also designed the National Bank of Romania. The building was inaugurated on February 26, 1888, and was built almost entirely with money donated by ordinary citizens of the capital, when a campaign called Give a penny for the Atheneum (Dati un leu pentru Ateneu) rescued the project from folly after the original patrons ran out of funds. Today the seat of the Romanian Philarmonic George Enescu, the auditorium is renowned worldwide for its outstanding acoustics. QOpen 14:00-16:00. Foisorul de Foc D-5, P-ta Foisorul de Foc/B-dul Ferdinand 33, tel. (+4) The Foisorul de Foc (Firewatch Tower) was constructed in 1893 and was at the time the tallest building in the city. It is 50 meters high. Contrary to the popular belief its purpose was simply to be a place from where the city s authorities could watch for fires. It at no stage stored water. The tower today hosts a less than gripping and mono-lingual Museum of Firefighting and Policing, the best bit of which is the view from the old observation deck, closed for decades but now thankfully reopened. QOpen 08:00-16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 3.00 lei adults, 1.50 leu children. Sala Palatului B-5, Piata Palatului, The rather startling Sala Palatului, with its concaved roof, was designed by Tiberiu Ricci (also responsible for the TVR building) and built in 15 months from January 1959 to April The massive auditorium, which seats 3,000, was originally used to host the five-yearly communist party congress. It today plays host to exhibitions and concerts. Teatrul National (National Theatre) C-5, Piata 21 Decembrie 1989, MUniversitate. A building in two parts, the original National Theatre was built between 1967 and 1970, and originally styled to honour the architecture of Moldova s famous monasteries. It was ruined in when a concrete casing was placed over the earlier structure, but rebuilding work currently being carried out on the building is intended to return the theatre to its original design by the end of this year. The odd statue in front of the theatre is called the Caruta cu paiate, a tribute to Romania s best loved playwright, Ion Luca Caragiale. See page 66. Carol Park (Parcul Carol I/Parcul Libertăţii) C-7, Calea Serban Vodă, MEroii Revolutiei. So close to the city centre yet so seldom frequented as to be almost forgotten, this large park was laid out by the city s authorities from , and designed by the French landscape artist Eduard Redont. It is today dominated by the massive Monument to the Heroes of the Struggle for Freedom and Socialism (it stands 48 metres high) built in 1963 and which until 1990 housed the remains of communist leaders Gheorghe Gheorghiu-Dej and Petre Groza (it is today empty). The park offers some pleasant walks along tree-lined paths, and good view of central Bucharest from the monument. The open-air Arenele Romane in the west of the park, next to the Observatory of Bucharest University s Astronomy Department are a popular venue for concerts. A year or so ago the very existence of the park was threatened by the Romanian Orthodox Church, which wanted to build a cathedral on the site. Vehement local protests halted the project, however. Cismigiu Gardens (Grădina Cismigiu) B-5, Between B-dul Regina Elisabeta, Calea Victoriei, Str. Stirbei Vodă and B-dul Schitu Măgureanu, MUniversitate. The most central of the city s public gardens, Cismigiu is a haven of lawns, trees, flowers and lakes. Often mistakenly refered to as a park, Cismigiu is actually a large garden, first designed and laid out in 1845 by the German landscape architect Carl Meyer, but not completed until More than 30,000 trees and plants were brought in from the Romanian mountains, while exotic plants were fetched from the botanical gardens in Vienna. Highlights of the 17 hectare garden include the Roman Garden, laid in the style of ancient Rome, and including busts of Romania s most famous writers, the lake, which can be explored by rowing boat in summer or skated upon during the winter, and Ion Jalea s French Memorial in Carrara marble, which commemorates those French troops killed on Romanian territory during the Great War. Herăstrău Park B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 32, MAviatorilor. Large park in the north of the city, surrounded by the finest residential districts Bucharest has to offer. The most popular of Bucharest s parks it extends for 187 hectares from the

3 22 BUCHAREST IN BLOOM So where am I exactly? Bucharest, capital of Romania. Situated in that part of the world which will - to those of a certain age - always be known as Eastern Europe, it would be more accurate to describe Bucharest s geographical location as southeastern Europe. Founded, legend has it, in the 14th century, Bucharest is in that part of Romania known as Wallachia, one of the three historic principalities which make up the modern country (the others are Moldavia and Transylvania). Romania as a nation state is relatively new: while Moldavia and Wallachia have been united as a single country since 1859, Romania took on its modern form only on December 1st, 1918, when the Romanians of Transylvania voted to join in the fun. The official population of Bucharest is just over two million people, but as many migrants from the rest of the country do not bother to register as citizens of the capital, the true number is thought to be closer to three million. Bucharest is close to the Danube (just 69 kilometres to the south), which serves as the border between Romania and Bulgaria. The main crossing point is at Giurgiu, linked by a bridge with Ruse, the Bulgarian town on the other side of the river, whose pleasant centre is well worth a day trip if you are at a loose end. Alas you will need a car, as train services between Bucharest and Ruse (and the rest of Bulgaria) are poor. Bucharest is around 240 kilometres from Constanta and the Black Sea coast, but as the A2 motorway only goes as far as Cernavoda, even the maddest of drivers fail to do the trip in much under three hours. Like most trains in Romania, the Bucharest - Constanta service is slow and it takes four and a half hours. To the north of Bucharest is Ploiesti - the centre of Romania s oil industry, and beyond that the Carpathian Mountains, a two hour drive away. Arcul de Triumf to the Baneasa bridge, and is centered on the lake with which it shares its name. Home to numerous attractions, including children s playgrounds, a rather old fashioned fairground, an open-air theatre, gardens, promenades and the central lake (which offers boat trips during the summer), the main entrance, recently tidied up and beautified, is from Piata Charles de Gaulle. You can rent bikes from La Pedale, close to the entrance. Rental is free but limited to two hours. You will need ID. Tineretului Park (Parcul Copiilor, Parcul Vacaresti) B-dul Tineretului, MTineretului. A large, mostly lovely park featuring the best playgrounds in the city. Divided into two parts, the main section (closest to Tineretului metro) offers a few rides for kids, trampolines and dodgems, as well as playgrounds and plenty of tree-lined avenues great for strolling. There is free bike hire too, just bring ID. In the middle of the park is the Sala Polivalenta - a popular venue for concerts, exhibitions and big indoor sporting events - set above a large artificial lake on the shore of which is a great terrace, Cafeneaua Actorilor de Vara, which serves some of the best (if most expensive) mici in the city. Up by Sala Polivalenta you will also find the entrance to Oraselul Copiilor, a very old fashioned children s funfair, complete with one of the most decrepit and life-threatening roller coasters known to man. It is currently being renovated, but some rides remain open. The best part of Tineretului however is Parcul Vacaresti / Parcul Copiilor, on the corner of B-dul Tineretului and Calea Vacaresti. Vast amounts of money have been spent on this part of the park, and as such you will find the best and biggest children s playgrounds in the city here. There is also an old steam engine for kids to clamber on, inflatables, a go-kart track, tennis courts, football pitches, volleyball and basketball courts. Titan/Alexandru Ion Cuza Park Str. Liviu Rebreanu, MTitan. The twin Titan and Alexandru Ioan Cuza parks, in the unsexy yet perfectly safe neighbourhood of Titan, have been given much love of late and are showing the benefit of millions of euros of investment. Whole terraces have been landscaped, lawns laid with much softer grass than elsewhere, playgrounds built on tartan surfaces (and not dreaded sand) and sports pitches placed at every turn. There s even an artificial skating rink, open year round. Look out too for the replica Maramures church on the southern side of the park, on Str. Liviu Rebreanu. There are plenty of kiosks serving refreshments, as well as ice cream stands. On weekend evenings there is usually something going at the main bandstand: either a band or children s entertainers.

4 24 Calea Victoriei CALEA VICTORIEI 25 No street in Bucharest has a history to match that of Calea Victoriei, the city s most famous thoroughfare which runs - much as it has for more than three centuries - from Piata Victoriei in the north of the city all the way down to Piata Natiunilor Unite and the Dambovita river. Lined with fine houses, palaces, churches, hotels, upmarket shops and museums, it remains perhaps the most prestigious address in the city. Calea Victoriei was first opened in 1692, originally part of the route from the Old Court (Curtea Veche, see page 74) to Mogosoaia, where Constantin Brancoveanu, that great ruler of these parts who did so much to modernise the country during his long and distinguished reign, had his main palace. The street has had many names over the years, including Ulita Sarindar, Drumul Brasovului and Drumul Mogosoaia, which was its name until 1878 when it became Calea Victoriei in honour of victories won by Romanian armies fighting to preserve the country s newly won independence from the Ottoman Empire. The street - originally covered with logs, as was the norm in those days - was fully paved by 1825, one of the first in the city (Strada Franceza, in Old Town, closer to the Old Court, was in fact the first). There followed a blossoming of construction as the street became a magnet for wealthy merchants who built homes along its length, keen to be spared the ignominies of the mud streets which persisted elsewhere. Though much has changed since, and not a few majestic buildings have fallen victim to earthquake, war, socialist planning or modernisation, many of the buildings which went up along Calea Victoriei in the first part of the 19th century remain. Orientation: modern Calea Victoriei can be split more or less neatly into two sections: the residential northern part, noted mainly for its fine houses and palaces and the more commercial southern part. To start a walk of the full length of the street at the northern end (which we recommend, as you can then end up by relaxing in one of the cafes of Old Town), simply take the metro to Piata Victoriei. Piata Victoriei to Calea Grivitei For all its history, Calea Victoriei does not start well. Piata Victoriei is an awful place, all cars and traffic, smoke and (in Summer) dust. The modernist building on the far side is the Palatul din Piata Victoriei, home today of the Romanian government (though when it was built in the 1930s it was the Foreign Ministry). On the other side of the square is the excellent Grigore Antipa Museum of Natural History, built in 1906 (see page 68). Elsewhere, Piata Victoriei is a socialist nightmare, with its more recently built office blocks barely more attractive than those built before Heading off from here along Calea Victoriei itself, the first building of any real interest is the Palatul Cantacuzino at No. 141, usually referred to (mistakenly) as the Casa Enescu. The building does house the Romanian Museum of Music (which carries the name of George Enescu, the country s finest composer) but - contrary to popular belief, Enescu never lived here, although there is a connection. The vaguely baroque, Louis XVIstyle building dates from 1898, when it was built for the wealthy politician Gheorghe Cantacuzino. On his death in 1913 the palace Frey Wille Frey Wille C-5, Calea Victoriei 118, tel. (+4) , bucuresti@frey-wille.com, Frey Wille boutiques are found in the most exclusive locations around the world, including Bucharest s very own street of style and luxury, Calea Victoriei. Expect to find only the finest jewellery and accessories here, and there is a good selection for both men and women. QOpen 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-18:00. Closed Sun. Shopping on Calea Victoriei Anthony Frost English Bookshop B-4, Calea Victoriei 45, tel. (+4) , 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-14:00. Cellini C-5, Calea Victoriei , tel. (+4) , 10:00-20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00. Also at B-dul Nicolae Balcescu 16, tel (+4) , Plaza Romania and many other locations. Emporio Armani C-5, Calea Victoriei 60-64, tel. (+4) /(+4) , emporio.armani@ earmani.ro, QOpen 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 11:00-16:00. Ermenegildo Zegna B-4, Calea Victoriei 63-81, tel. (+4) , Q Open 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun closed. Escape Club Wear B-4, Calea Victoriei 101, tel. (+4) , escape@escape.ro, QOpen 12:00-19:30, Sat 11:00-15:00. Closed Sun. Gerard Darel B-4, Calea Victoriei 118, tel. (+4) , office@gerarddarel.ro, QOpen 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-19:00. Closed Sun. Gucci C-5, Str. Episcopiei 1-3, tel. (+4) , gucci@cellini.ro, QOpen 10:00-21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00. Helvetansa B-4, Calea Victoriei 68-70, tel. (+4) , QOpen 10:00-20:00, Sat 11:00-16:00. Closed Sun. Also at (C-5) B-dul Balcescu 25, tel. (+4) and (B-4) Calea Victoriei 88, tel. (+4) Humanitas Kretzulescu B-4, Calea Victoriei 45, tel. (+4) , 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-16:00. Hugo Boss B-4, Calea Victoriei 145, tel. (+4) , Open 10:00-20:00, Closed Sun. Max Mara C-5, Calea Victoriei 122A, tel. (+4) , Q Open 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-20:00, Closed Sun. Mengotti C-5, Calea Victoriei 48-50, tel. (+4) , info@mengotti.ro, QOpen 10:00-20:00, Sat 11:00-19:00. Closed Sun. Micri Gold C-5, Calea Victoriei 56, tel. (+4) , office@micrigold.ro, QOpen 10:30-19:00, Sat 11:00-03:00. Closed Sun. Palas Antiques B-5, Calea Victoriei 100, tel. (+4) , (+4) , pirsoagageorge@yahoo.com, QOpen 10:30-20:00, Sat 10:30-14:00. Closed Sun. Romartizana B-4, Calea Victoriei 16-20, tel. (+4) , romartizana@digicom.ro, 10:00-20:00, Sat 09:00-13:00. Closed Sun. Also at P-ta Montreal 10 (World Trade Plaza) tel. (+4) Sepala by Mihaela Glavan C-5, Str. Benjamin Franklin 9, tel. (+4) , (+4) , ro.qopen 10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-17:00. Closed Sun. Victoria 46 C-5, Calea Victoriei 46, tel. (+4) , QOpen 10:00-21:00, Sat 11:00-21:00, Sun 11:00-18:00. became the property of Cantacuzino s eldest son Mihai, who in turn left it to his wife, Maruca, when he died in Maruca subsequently married Enescu - in but they chose to live in a smaller house at the rear of the palace. Crossing Strada Gheorghe Manu, you will come across two gorgeous houses next to each other: the Neo-Classical yet very French Casa Nenciu, was built in the 1830s for a Wallachian princess, the exotically named Cleopatra Trubetkoi. In 1847 Franz Liszt stayed here while on an extended visit to Bucharest. Next door at No. 192 is the Casa Manu, completed in 1843 for the modernising administrator Alecu Florescu, but named for the man who bought it in 1848: the legendary general and politician Gheorghe Manu. The Casa Lens-Vernescu at No. 133 (to give the mansion its full name) is one of the finest on Calea Victoriei, built around 1820 in an eclectic style incorporating many of the architectural trends of the time. For years it was regarded as the most beautiful house in the city, and belonged initially to Filip Lens, a lawyer and politician. On his death in 1852 the house became a residence for military officers, the Ministry of War moving in shortly afterwards. Another politician, Gheorghe Vernescu, bought it from the state in 1886, and had it extensively remodelled over a two-year period from Today the building houses a casino and a restaurant, which is currently being renovated. The house on the south-western corner of the Calea Victoriei/Bulvardul Dacia intersection (opposite the new-ish Golden Tulip hotel) is the Casa Monteoru. One of the oldest on Calea Victoriei it dates from around 1810, although it was almost entirely reconstructed in the 1880s (to designs by Ion Mincu - an architect whose name you come across a lot in Bucharest). The building is distinguished by its uneven character: the ground floor is much smaller than the upper floor, the gorgeous balcony of which is supported by two broad, Corinthian columns. Eclectic both inside and out the building is today one of a number in the city owned by the Romanian Writer s Union. Next door is a fine palace, known as the Palat Romanit which hosts the Museum of Art Collections. The central corp was built in 1834, then rebuilt and extended in 1883, when the wings were added. For much of the 19th century the building was home to the Ministry of Finance, becoming an art museum in 1948, when the wealthiest families in Romania were made an offer they couldn t refuse by the communist government, and forced to donate much of their extensive art collections to the state. It is currently closed for renovtion. Speaking of the state, the elegant, modernist (if neglected) linear building opposite, at No. 152, is another Duiliu Marcu design, built from and from home of the State Planning Committee. Looking every inch a 1930s Italian railway station, the clock on the main tower is a gem. Carol I: The First King of Romania Few visitors to Bucharest will leave without seeing the enormous horseback statue of Carol I - the first king of modern Romania - which appeared in front of the University Library in (B/C-5) Piata Revolutiei at the end of Looking directly at the former Royal Palace (now the National Art Museum), the statue is one of the largest in the city and unquestionably the most prominently positioned. But who was this Carol chap? Born Karl Eitel Friedrich Zephyrinus Ludwig of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen in Sigmaringen in southern Germany in 1839, Karl was an officer in the Prussian army until being invited by Romanian politician Ion Brătianu in 1866 to become the nascent country s king. Romania s own royal, the authoritarian Prince Alexandru Ioan Cuza, had been exiled after falling out with the country s politicians and most powerful families earlier in Scouring Europe for a suitable (non-romanian) replacement, Brătianu sought the advice of Napoleon III, a relative by marriage of the Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen family. It was - allegedly - on Napoleon III s recommendation that the young Karl was approached. Though reluctant, Karl was encouraged by his family to accept the offer, and Bratianu returned to Romania to make preparations. Karl s trip to Romania the next month was as bizarre as his somewhat random selection as the country s king. Due to ongoing conflict between Prussia and the Austrian Empire, Karl travelled incognito by railroad from Düsseldorf to Budapest, under the name of Karl Hettingen. From Budapest he travelled by carriage, as there was no railroad to Romania. As he walked across the border onto Romanian soil, he was met by Brătianu, who bowed before him and asked Karl to join him in a carriage. On 10 May 1866, Karl entered Bucharest. The news of his arrival had been transmitted through telegraph and he was welcomed by a huge crowd eager to see the new ruler. In Băneasa he was given the key to the city. That day, rain fell, ending a long period of drought a favourable sign. As he was crowned, Karl swore to guard the laws of Romania, to maintain its rights and the integrity of its territory. Not yet able to speak Romanian, he took the oath in French, but adopted the Romanian version of his name, Carol. In his 48 years on the throne, Carol can be considered to have done rather well. He greatly assisted the cause of Romanian independence from the Ottoman Empire - which came in raised the country s prestige (not least at the 1906 Grand Exhibition, held in the Bucharest park which now carries his name), and - in the main - allowed politicians to run the economy without interference. He never forgot he was German, however, and his pet project, the Peles Castle, Sinaia, was quite deliberately built in German style, as a reminder of the king s origin. Carol s German roots also caused much tension at the outbreak of World War I: his subjects were by and large sympathetic to the French. As a result, Romania kept out of the war until Carol died, in 1916.

5 26 CALEA VICTORIEI Art Gift Shop Beba Art Gift Shop C-5, Str. Nicolae Golescu 20, tel. (+4) , ro. Just behind the Atheneum this is a gorgeous little shop selling all sorts of artistic creations, from paintings to glass and ceramics, clothes and jewellery. Impossible not to find something to buy. QOpen 12:00-20:00, Sat 11:00-15:00. Closed Sun. Commercial Calea Victoriei It is at the crossroads with Calea Grivitei that you notice a real change in the mood of Calea Victoriei. The road and pavements narrow, and houses, palaces and small parks give way to blocks - many of which are nevertheless elegant if run down - with shops on the ground floor. Yet the first building of real interest on this part of Calea Victoriei will for most people be the little white church set back from the street in a small square on the corner of Str. George Enescu. Known colloquially as the Biserica Alba (White Church), it is officially the Biserica Sf. Nicolae and is one of the oldest in Bucharest, being founded in The current structure dates from 1827, however (the original was destroyed in an earthquake), with the interior frescoes for which it is famed having been restored a number of times, most recently in The glass and steel opposite belong to the Radisson Blu hotel, opened in 2008 after a refit of several years had turned the tired, old and often infamous Hotel Bucuresti into the five-star wonder the rich and famous throng to today. In what is very much Bucharest s Hotel Row, directly across the road from the Radisson is the Athenee Palace Hilton, one of few hotel s in the world whose history is so intriguing that books have been written about it (Rosie Waldeck s Athenee Palace details the intricate diplomatic discussions - official or otherwise - which took place here in the 1930s and 1940s). The hotel opened in 1912 (it was designed by a Frenchman, Teophile Bradeau) and was built on the site of an old inn, the Hanul Gherasi. The Calea Victoriei wing was added in the 1960s, and the hotel was entirely renovated again in 1997 when it became a Hilton property. Most recently the ground floor brasserie was remodelled and reopened as the Cafe Athenee. The Athenee Palace vies for attention on Piata Revolutiei with the Atheneum, the Former Royal Palace, the University Library, the Former Central Committee Building, the Revolution Monument the Cretulescu Church, and the statue of Carol I (see previous page). You should take a look at the building just behind and to the left of the University Library: the modern green office block inside the ruins of an old house. What happened here is simple: the building was all but destroyed during the 1989 revolution (this square saw most of the action: it was from the low balcony of the grey Former Central Committee Building that Nicolae Ceausescu gave his last public speech, before fleeing the next day from the roof in a helicopter). It was taken over by the Architects Union who then created the rather splendid mix of old and new we admire today. The Revolution Monument is a less impressive affair, mocked by locals who call it an olive on a stick. Shops of the classy and expensive kind occupy the ground floor of the buildings that line Calea Victoriei as it closes in again, at least as far as the two hotels - historic both for differing reasons - that greet you at the crossroads with Ion Campaneanu. The Grand Continental Hotel was reopened in 2009 after being almost totally rebuilt. Opposite is the Novotel, whose faux Neo-Classical entrance is an exact replica of that of Bucharest s original National Theatre, which stood here from 1852 until it was destroyed in an allied bombing raid in August Next to the Novotel is the art deco Palatul Telefoanelor (Telephone Palace). Built over three years from to serve as the headquarters of Romania s national telephone company it was the first building in the country to be constructed in the manner of an American skyscraper: concrete reinforced by a steel frame. There are three other hotels on this part of the street: the Majestic, the Capitol and the Casa Capsa - the latter being one of the oldest in the city, dating back to Opposite the Telephone Palace is the Pasajul Victoriei. Built in the 1830s, it was home for a long time to the Bucharest s most luxurious brothel, immortalized in Ion Matei Caragiale s 1929 novel Craii de Curtea Veche. The Cercul Militar was completed in 1912, on the site of a former monastery, the Sarindar. A recently renovated fountain in front of the building preserves the Sarindar name. Opposite is the Hotel Bulevard, built in the 1860s and the first in the city to have running water in the rooms. It was closed in 2005 ahead of a five-star refit that is approaching completion. On the opposite corner, find the little courtyard next to Pizza Hut which leads through to one of Bucharest s many hidden churches. Dating from 1683 the church s name is a mouthful: the Biserica Intrarea Maicii Domnului în Biserică (the Church of the Entrance of the Mother of God into Church). From here Calea Victoriei heads gently downhill, passing the Bancorex building at No. 15 (now called the Bucharest Financial Plaza) the first modern office block to be built after Next door is the far more satisfactory CEC building (the ornate national savings bank, built in 1900) while opposite is the National History Museum (see page 69). The Old Town/ Lipscani area lurks behind the History Museum. At the very bottom of the street, facing the river, are the Gloriette Buildings, neither of which is in the best of shape. Designed by local architect Petru Antonescu and completed in 1926, they are worth noting for their design (particularly the belvedere at the top), which was used as a blueprint for the apartment buildings which went up in the Civic Centre along Bulevardul Unirii in the 1980s (see box on page 90, and which, it should be said, have weathered no better). Casa Frumoasa A network of stores around the city selling only the biggest names in high fashion: Tom Ford, Scabal, Brioni, Salvatore Ferragamo, Loro Piana, Jacob Cohen etc. Casa Frumoasa JW Marriott B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 90 (JW Marriott Bucharest Grand Hotel), tel. (+4) /(+4) QOpen 10:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00. Casa Frumoasa Store B-4, B-dul Lascar Catargiu 40, tel. (+4) /(+4) QOpen 10:00-21:00, Sat 10:00-20:00, Sun 11:00-18:00. Elegance Boutique B-4, Calea Victoriei (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) /(+4) , QOpen 10:00-21:00, Sat 10:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-17:00. J. Kristensen Store Bucuresti B-4, Calea Victoriei (Radisson Blu), tel. (+4) QOpen 10:00-21:00, Sat 10:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-17:00.

6 66 What to see What to see 67 Caruta cu paiate Essential Bucharest The first port of call for any visitor to Bucharest these days should probably be the Historic Centre, or Old Town. Once you have ticked off Old Town, you can head for the sights, museums, churches and buildings we list here. The Peasant and Village Museums should take priority, as well as the Grigore Antipa National History Museum. While still the most famous building in the city and usually top of the agenda for most visitors, Casa Poporului/Palatul Parlamentului tends to be a bit of a let down for most, mainly due to the stilted nature of the compulsory guided tour. Art lovers - especially fans of religious art - should pencil in at least an afternoon at the National Art Museum. Last but not least, half a day at the Bellu Cemetery is a wonderful trip through Romanian literary, artistic, political and architectural history. Bellu Cemetery (Cimitirul Bellu) Calea Serban Voda 249, MEroii Revolutiei, tel. (+4) , www. bellu.ro. Founded in the 1850s, this is Bucharest s most historic cemetery, the final resting place of just about every great Romanian academic, scientist, artist, writer, musician and poet you can think of, as well as the odd politician. Each has his or her own plot, usually with an accompanying monument (our favourite is that devoted to the comic actor Toma Caragiu, tragically killed in the Bucharest earthquake of 1977). You could spend half a day here wandering between the gravestones, memorials and statues (the graves are grouped by profession: scientists in one part, actors in another etc). You should also be sure to visit the central chapel (which keeps the same hours as the cemetery itself), built in the 1880s in the style of the cathedral at Karlsbad (Karlovy Vary) and boasting stunning interior paintings. Next to the cemetery is the Cimitirul Eroilor, where those killed in Bucharest during the 1989 revolution are buried. QOpen 08:00-16:00. Chances are you ve seen this statue, admired it, but then walked on having failed to grasp what it actually is, or what it signifies. Centrally located in front of Romania s National Theatre (C-5, which is currently being rebuilt), not 20 yards from the Bucharest Inter Continental Hotel, the bronze Caruta cu paiate was created by sculptor Ioan Bolborea in honour of Romania s favourite playwright, Ion Luca Caragiale. It was unveiled in December The statue features characters (Domnul Goe, Nae Catavencu, Tache Farfuridi, amongst others) from Caragiale s most famous plays, and was unveiled in December Next to the Caruta cu paiate is a seated bronze of another character: Nenea Iancu Caragiale himself. Or is it? Even Romanian literary academics argue as to whether Nenea Iancu was or was not based on Caragiale himself. It s worth noting that for a while (from ), a rather different statue of Caragiale stood here, one which can today be seen in front of Caragiale s old house, on Strada Maria Rosetti. Many locals claim that the statue is in fact an old Lenin, with the Russian revolutionary s head having been replaced with that of Caragiale. You can read about it (in Romanian) here. We ourselves have no idea if this urban myth is true or not. We kind of hope that it is. Caragiale - whose face appears on Romania s 100 lei banknotes - was born in 1859, and is probably best remembered for his masterpiece of political manners, O Scrisoare Pierduta (A Lost Letter). Other plays of note include O Noapte Fortunoasa (Stormy Night) and O Soacra (A Mother-in-law) The reopening of the National Theatre in the summer of this year - the centenary of his death - will feature major new productions of many of Caragiale s plays George Enescu Museum (Muzeul National George Enescu) B-4, Calea Victoriei 141, tel. (+4) , fax (+4) , Mistakenly believed to be the great Romanian composer George Enescu s former home, this outstanding Secession house was in fact built for landowner George Cantacuzino in 1905, and many older Bucharest residents still refer to it as the Cantacuzino Palace. It became state property in 1955, the year of Enescu s death, and a year later opened as a musuem dedicated to his life and work. You will find rooms full of the usual memorabilia and artefacts from the eventful life of Romania s most famous composer, as well as a full telling of the story of Romanian music in general. QOpen 10:00-17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 6 lei, students/children 1.50 lei. National Art Museum (MNAR; Muzeul National de Arta) B/C-5, Calea Victoriei 49-53, tel. (+4) , The country s largest, and most impressive art collection is housed inside the splendid former Royal Palace, first built in 1812 as a private home by the wealthy trader Dinicu Golescu. It has been a royal residence in 1859, when it became the court of the first prince of the united principalities, Alexandru Ion Cuza. There are three permanent exhibitions, one on each of the three floors of the main building: Medieval Romanian Art, featuring icons, carved altars, illustrated manuscripts and bibles, and fragments of frescoes; Modern Romanian Art, with all of Romania s greatest 20th century artists well represented, including Theodor Aman, Constantin Brancuşi, Gheorghe Patraşcu, and Gheorghe Tattarescu; and European Paintings and Sculpture, which plays host to a fine collection of Old European Masters.Q Open April 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Open May 11:00-19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 8 lei for The Gallery of European Art, 10 lei for The National Gallery (Treasure included) and 15 lei for combined tickets (both galleries). Palatul Parlamentului (Parliament Palace; Casa Poporului) B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 1, intrarea A3, MIzvor, tel. (+4) , Romania s most famous building, Palatul Parlamentului (known universally as Casa Poporului) was built during the darkest days of the Nicolae Ceausescu regime. Standing 84m above ground level on 12 floors, the building has long been shrouded in mystery, rumour and hyperbole. Originally designed to house almost all the organs of the communist state, it today plays host to the Romanian parliament and a modern, well equipped conference centre, as well as Romania s Museum of Contemporary Art. The public tour of the building is thoroughly recommended (it is the only way to see the building, in fact) though the commentary consists of little more than a bored guide reeling off endless superlative statistics. You ll see plenty of grand staircases, marble-plated halls and conference rooms, while - if you pay the extra - you may also have the chance to go on the roof, which offers perhaps the best view of central Bucharest. You can even now take a trip into the bowels of the building down below, though again this costs extra. To join one of the tours, you should make reservations a day in advance as parliamentary business means the official opening hours are subject to change. You will also need to bring your passport, driving license or other form of internationally accepted ID. Use the entrance on the right-hand side of the palace (if you re looking at it front-on). Izvor is probably the nearest metro station, but you ll get a better view from Piata Unirii. Q Open 10:00-16:00. Admission 25 lei (standard tour), 30 lei (standard and basement), 35 lei (standard and terrace), 45 lei (standard, terrace and basement). All tours include access to the Palace s terrace cafe. An additional fee of lei is payable by those with cameras. Peasant Museum (Muzeul Taranului Roman) B-3, Şos. Kiseleff 3, MAviatorilor, tel. (+4) , In most people s opinion, the Peasant Museum is the best museum in Bucharest, and one of the best in the country. Housed in a wonderful red brick building designed by Nicolae Ghica-Budeşti, dating from 1912, the museum offers well laid out and presented exhibits which tell you all you need to know about the diverse and fascinating history of life around the country over the past four centuries. There are exhibitions covering all aspects of Romanian peasant life, from handpainted Easter eggs to terracotta pottery, from colourful religious icons to traditional clothing. Boasts an excellent shop. QOpen 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon. Last admission 17:00. Admission 8.00 lei, students and children 2 lei, pensioners 3 lei. Village Museum (Muzeul Naţional al Satului Dimitrie Gusti) A-2, Sos. Kiseleff 28-30, tel. (+4) , Outstanding. Founded in 1936, and covering 15 hectares on the shores of Lake Herăstrău, Muzeul Satului is one of the greatest outdoor museums in the Balkans. There are more than 60 original houses, farmsteads, windmills, watermills and churches from all of Romania s historic regions: Transylvania, Oltenia, Dobrogea and Moldavia. Every exhibit has a plaque showing exactly where in Romania it was brought from. Some even now have recorded commentary in four languages (press the second button for English). Most of the houses date from the mid 19th-century, but some, such as those from Berbeşti, in the heart of Romania, date from as early as The highlight of the museum is probably the steep belfry of the wooden Maramureş church, but you should also not miss the earth houses of Straja, or the brightly painted dwellings of the Danube Delta. The museum has a great souvenir shop, and a stall selling traditional Romanian sweets and cakes. Children love the museum, and it makes for a perfect family day out. QOpen 09:00-17:00. Last admission 16:30. Admission 6.00 lei, students/children 1.50 lei.

7 68 What to see What to see 69 Museums As well as those listed here, do not forget the National Art Museum, the Peasant and Village Museums, which we list under Essential Bucharest. Collectivisation Memorial B-3, Inside the Peasant Museum, MPiata Victoriei. Our favourite part of the Peasant Museum; a small but stunning and moving cellar room featuring a collection of communist-era busts, paintings and nostalgic memorabilia. Called a reminder of the pain caused by collectivisation there are a number of paintings of Stalin and Gheorghe Gheorghiu-Dej, but none of Ceausescu. Be sure to take a Romanian speaker along to translate the often chilling newspaper articles reporting the progress being made towards full collectivisation that are stuck on the walls. Cotroceni Museum B-dul Geniului 1, tel. (+4) /(+4) , ro. Constructed from at the behest of Romania s first king, Carol I, Cotroceni Palace has since 1991 been the official residence of the Romanian President. Built on the site of a former monastery (the foundations and cellars of which remain, and form part of the tour of the palace), the palace was designed by a French team of architects, led by Paul Gottereau. The design would form something of a blueprint for Romanian domestic architecture for years to come. It served as the Bucharest residence of the Romanian royal family until During the communist period it was used as a guest house for visiting heads of state. The part that serves today as the president s office, and official home, however, was added after the great Bucharest earthquake of 1977, and bears the stamp of local architect Nicolae Vladescu. Part of the palace is open to the public, and can be visited as part of a tour. You will see a number of function rooms, many of which were decorated to the whims of Marie, the English wife of Carol s heir, his nephew Crown Prince Ferdinand. You will also be able to view her astonishing art collection. During the construction of the new wing in the 1980s, ruins of the original monastery church were discovered, including part of the original interior frescoes. The church has been partially rebuilt and can be visited without joining the full palace tour. QOpen 09:30-16:30. Closed Mon. Admission lei, students and children lei. Admission includes entrance and the compulsory guided tour. Tours are available in Romanian, French and English. Last tour begins at 16:30. Geology Museum B-3, Sos. Kiseleff 2, MPiata Victoriei, tel. (+4) , Far more than just a collection of old rocks and fossils, Bucharest s Geology Museum is one of the city s must sees. First off, there is the museum building itself to admire. Built in 1906 on the orders of King Carol I to house what was then known as the Royal Romanian Geology Society, the building is a splendid example of Neo-Brancovenesque architecture, and is far more impressive than its red-brick neighbour, the Peasant Museum. The museum s permanent collections are impressive in size and - being logically presented - clarity, but few have English captions. The museum is also of the most active in the city, playing host to varied and never less than fascinating temporary exhibitions. QOpen 10:00-17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8.00 lei, students and children 4.00 lei. History Museum (Muzeul National de Istorie) C-5, Calea Victoriei 12, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) , The beautiful, monumental and simply superb Neo-Classical building that houses Romania s National History Museum was constructed from to the designs of local architect Alexandru Săvulescu. It originally served as the headquarters of Poşta Romană, the Romanian postal Grigore Antipa Natural History Museum B-3, Şos. Kiseleff 1, M Piata Victoriei, tel. (+4) , fax (+4) , Long before the idea of a major refurbishment had been mooted, we had already become huge fans of the Antipa. From the building (purpose built in 1908) which occupies one of the more discrete parts of Piata Victoriei to the amazing collections of mounted butterflies and pickled snakes, it was the kind of place that we always brought the In Your Pocket kids on a wet weekend: two hours of peace and quiet was always guaranteed as they explored the delightful old place. Then, in the autumn of 2007, the Antipa closed, ostensibly for 18 months while a thorough refurbishment was carried out. In September 2011, the museum finally reopened, a year or so behind schedule. All we can say is that it was well worth the wait. Before the refurbishment the Grigore Antipa was one of the most popular (and best) museums in Romania, attracting more than 350,000 visitors per year. It was dependent, however, on temporary exhibitions to boost visitor numbers, as it was unable to display all of its collection in one go. The well thought-out and thorough refit (the interior is unrecognisable from before) however makes far better use of the magnificent building which houses the museum, which is now able to permanently display far more of its extensive collection. The museum is split over three levels. The basement is dedicated to Romanian fauna, and while it would be impossible to present every species found in the country, the museum has made a very good attempt at doing so. Carefully presented exhibitions show the various geographical regions of Romania, and the animals particular to them. There are boars and bears from the mountains, fish and dolphins from the Black Sea and hundreds of birds from the Danube Delta. There are artificial caves to explore, and all of the exhibits are accompanied by excellent captions - which put everything into perspective - in Romanian and English. The larger displays also have interactive screens to help you identify the animals and find out more about them. The ground floor is given over to animals from around the world (both the living and the extinct: it s here you will find the dinosaurs and mammoths) while the upper level is devoted to man and his impact on the planet. Somewhat predictably, the museum has taken a slightly politically correct turn and now feels free to lecture visitors on the harm man is doing to the environment. The entrance fee to the museum is 20 lei for adults, 10 lei for pensioners and 5 lei for children. With the exception of Casa Poporului, the price is more than double that of any other museum in the city. However, if Bucharest (and Romania) wants to have world class museums then a world class entrance fee alas needs to be paid. Besides, is 20 lei really too much? A family of four can come here for 50 lei: that s cheaper than a trip to the cinema. (One gripe would be the fact that all photography is strictly forbidden). Still, small grumbles. Bucharest s new look Grigore Antipa is an excellent museum that the city should be proud of, and it is well worthy of your time and money. It is unquestionably an Essential Bucharest sight. QOpen 10:00-20:00. Closed Mon. Last admission 19:00. Admission 20 lei, pensioners 10 lei, children 5 lei. service. When the post office moved away in 1970, the History Museum moved in. The museum s exhibitions are spread over 60 display rooms, and include a fine collection of antiquities, including statues brought from a Bronze Age necropolis close to present day Cernavoda. The finest exhibit is the replica of Trajan s Column in the central lapidarium. The museum is poor on Romania s recent history. Q Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 8 lei, students and children 2 lei. Military Museum (Muzeul Militar National) B-4, Str. Mircea Vulcănescu , tel. (+4) int Tucked away on a side street not far from the main railway station, the Military Museum is housed in a former officers college, built in Popular with older children, the most interesting sections of the museum include a range of military hardware (missiles, helicopters and tanks) as well as an excellent display that focuses on the army s role during the revolution. Not to be missed is the Soyuz-40 capsule in which Dumitru Prunariu became the first - and so far only - Romanian in space, in May Sadly, no captions anywhere in the museum are in English. QOpen 09:00-17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5.00 lei, children, students 2.50 lei. Minovici Museum of Ancient Western Art (Muzeul de Arta Veche Apuseana Ing. D. Minovici ) Str. Dr. Minovici 3, tel. (+4) , This amazing red brick, mock Tudor house holds the small and dusty renaissance art collection of Dumitru Minovici, who made barrels of lei in the oil business in the 1930s. Inside are fine collections of Belgian tapestries, Dutch furniture, Swiss stained glass, a complete library and Italian paintings from the 16th/17th centuries. To get there, walk north-east from Piaţa Presei Libere or take bus No 301 to the Mioriţa Fountain. QOpen 09:00-17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. Free admission. Sibiu In Your Pocket European Capital of Culture in 2007, the Transylvanian city of Sibiu has long been considered one of Romania s best destinations to visit. It is no surprise therefore that some of the biggest names in the hotel business have opened up shop there, as has In Your Pocket: we now publish a quarterly Mini-Guide to the city, available at all good Sibiu hotels or at any of the city s three Tourist Information Offices. A three or four hour drive from Bucharest, Sibiu is served by two trains per day from Bucharest, and by a daily Tarom plane. Prices start at 45 for a single.

8 70 What to see National Museum of Contemporary Art (MNAC; Muzeul National de Arta Contemporana) B-6, Calea 13 Septembrie 1, entrance E4 (Palatul Parlamentului), MIzvor, tel. (+4) , Making excellent use of the wide open spaces on the Parliament Palace, this vast gallery displays the work of Romania s finest contemporary artists. There are also works on display by international artists, and regular topical exhibitions. It s all mostly installations, clever symbolism and grand gestures as opposed to real talent, but you may enjoy the humour. The museum has a great cafe, and if the weather is good enough its terrace offers fantastic views of the city. QOpen 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 5.00 lei. Free entrance for children and artists. National Technical Museum (Muzeul Tehnic Dimitrie Leonida) C-7, Str. Gen. Candiano Popescu 2, tel. (+4) Often unfairly derided as an outdated (if amusingly so) museum of technology, it should be remembered that the machines, turbines, inventions and gadgets on display here are not meant to be cutting edge. At least not in this day and age. They were all, however, cutting edge when they first appeared, with some of the older steam engines dating back to the beginning of the 19th century. The museum is housed in something of a cherished relic itself: the original pavilion built to host the 1906 Romania Fair. QOpen 09:30-16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 3.00 lei, students, children 1.50 lei. Theodor Pallady Museum (Casa Melik, Muzeul Theodor Pallady) D-5, Str. Spătarului 22, tel. (+4) Theodor Pallady ( ) was an early Cubist artist widely regarded as Romania s most influential 20th century painter. Schooled in Dresden and Paris, Pallady was influenced by the Symbolist environment of the late 19th century, and his paintings before 1916 contain Symbolist motifs, sometimes with echoes of Moreau. Alas the small museum that today bears his name has only six of his paintings, a couple of his sketches and assorted other art. The museum s saving grace is the house in which it is hosted: the oldest in Bucharest. Originally called the Casa Melik, it was built around 1750 by the rich Armenian Hagi Kevork Nazaretoglu. Walk over the enchantingly creaky wooden floors and admire the decorated tavane (ceilings). Q Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 5.00 lei, students and children 2.50 lei. Zambaccian Museum (Muzeul Zambaccian) B-3, Str. Muzeul Zambaccian 21A, tel. (+4) A chance to see the large collection belonging to the now deceased patron Zambaccian (you ll see the requisite portraits) that includes the only Cezanne in Romania, as well as the best of Romanian painters Luchian, Tonitza, and Pallady. Q Open 11:00-19:00, Closed Thu, Fri. Admission 7 lei, children, students 3.5 lei. Contemporary Art Gallery Zorzini Gallery C-5, Str. Thomas Masaryk 31, tel. (+4) , contact@zorzinigallery.com, Fine contemporary art gallery working with both established and emerging Romanian artists that correspond to the gallery s aesthetic agenda, which includes graphics, painting, installation and mixed media. Currently represents Nicolae Comanescu, Andrei Gamart and Oana Lohan. QOpen 12:00-20:00. Closed Sun. PLBSW Jewish Bucharest As recently as 1937 there were over 100,000 Jews and more than 80 synagogues in Bucharest: today there are around 4,000 Jews and just three working synagogues. Yet though it may be small, the Jewish community is incredibly active in the city, and besides the synagogues has a theatre, a school and a museum. There is also now a Holocaust Memorial - built in which has gone a long way towards finally drawing a line under Romania s involvement in the Holocaust. For a thorough account of the Holocaust in Romania, we recommend Radu Ioanid s book Holocaust in Romania: The Destruction of Jews & Gypsies by the Antonescu Regime. For a slightly different look at life as a Jew in 1930s and 40s Romania, you can do no better than the brilliant Journal: The Fascist Years, by Mihai Sebastian. Choral Temple C-6, Str. Sf. Vineri 9-11, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) Built in 1857, the red brick temple has a memorial in front of it (visible from the street) that commemorates the Romanian Jews sent to their deaths during the Holocaust. Usually the busiest Bucharest synagogue, it is currently closed for extensive renovation. Holocaust Memorial B-6, Str. Ion Brezoianu/Str. Ilfov, MEroilor. Unveiled in October 2009, Romania s Holocaust Memorial finally recognises the country s role in the genocide of Europe s Jews. The Romanian Holocaust and the deportation of the country s Jews was ignored by the Communists, and was minimized by subsequent governments after the collapse of Communism. Jewish Cemetery (Cimitirul Evreiesc de Rit Sefard) C-7, Calea Serban Vodă, MEroii Revolutiei. Fascinating though harrowing cemetery, full of monuments to those who died during Romania s pogroms (of which there were many at the turn of the 19th century) and the Holocaust. As with all of the city s cemeteries and parks, beware stray dogs. Q Open from noon to dusk. Jewish History Museum (Muzeul de Istorie a Evreilor din Romania) C-6, Str. Mămulari 3, MPiata Unirii, tel. (+4) Seperate exhibitions display how the once vibrant Jewish community of Bucharest used to live. Housed in an old synagogue built in 1850, the main display is in fact a sculpture that mourns the 350,000 Romanian Jews sent to their deaths at Auschwitz in 1944 and 1945.QOpen 09:00-14:00, Fri, Sun 09:00-13:00. Closed Sat. Admission free. The Great Synagogue C-6, Str. Vasile Adamache 11, MPiata Unirii. Bucharest s Great Synagogue was built from by the Ashkenazi Polish-Jewish community. With an impressive mixture of baroque and rococo architectural styles, the Great Synagogue remains the most important Jewish building in the country. The synagogue hosts an excellent exhibition dedicated to Romania s Jewish martyrs, and to Dr. Moses Rosen, who served as Romania s Chief Rabbi for 30 years until his death in QOpen 08:30-15:00, Fri, Sun 08:30-13:00. Closed Sat. Morning Prayer: Sun-Fri 08:00, Sat 09:30, Evening Prayer: Sun-Fri 19:00. Yeshoah Tova Synagogue (Sinagoga Eşua Tova) C-4, Str. Tache Ionescu 9, MPiata Romana. In a busy side street off Bulevardul Magheru is Bucharest s second temple. Q Services take place when Sabbath commences on Friday evenings, as well as on Saturdays at 09:00.

9 72 OLD TOWN old town 73 OLD TOWN While much of Bucharest has changed beyond recognition over the past two decades, nothing compares to the recent transformation of Old Town/Lipscani, which in the past three years has turned what was very much a no-go area with almost nothing to offer into the Romanian capital s liveliest entertainment district. The area is still something of a work in progress, but it s a rewarding place to explore, one of the few areas of the capital that is. You will certainly not want for things to do, to see, or for places to eat, drink and dance. Old Town: A Brief History The area of Bucharest described by the Dambovita river to the south, Calea Victoriei to the west, Bulevardul Brătianu to the east and Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta to the north is more or less all that s left of pre-world War II Bucharest. What the war didn t destroy (and it destroyed a fair bit: allied bombing was fierce during the early part of 1944) communism did, most notably in the form of the grandiose Civic Centre project (see box on page 90) that saw almost a fifth of the total area of the city flattened to make way for Bulevardul Unirii and Casa Poporului. That anything survives at all is little short of a miracle. While we at tend to call the area Old Town, many will know it better as Lipscani, with most locals calling it the Centru Istoric (Historic Centre). The area is historic in the main because this is where Bucharest was founded. Kind of. According to legend, Bucur the Shepherd founded the city in the 1300s, when he built a church somewhere on the eastern bank of the Dâmboviţa river: nobody is sure exactly where this church was (or even if it actually existed). What we do know is that by the first reign of Vlad Ţepeş ( ) there was a palace and court (the Palatul Curtea Veche) in the area we today call Old Town, and that the city grew quickly around the palace. By the middle of the 17th century the area was Bucharest s merchant district, which it to all intents and purposes remained until the end of World War II, when many of the rightful owners of the houses and businesses which lined the area s streets were arrested by the communist authorities, and their property confiscated and left to rot. The entire area - viewed as being far too bourgeois for communist tastes - was then neglected for decades, with many of the empty buildings being occupied over the years (legally or otherwise) by Gypsies. Many of these Gypsies remain today, and add real character and colour to the area. Old Town s Sights The best place to start any exploration of Old Town is at Universitate, at the twin semi-circular buildings opposite the university. The buildings (one is a bank and the other houses a casino) were originally built (in 1906) to serve as the headquarters of Romania s largest insurance company. The fenced-off area in front of them will soon be an underground car park. Archaeological finds however - including the remains of inns, houses and shops - brought excavation and building work to a halt for some time. Best then to leave the building work behind you and head into Old Town proper: the first sight that will probably grab your attention (it will be difficult to miss it) is the colourful St. Nicholas (Students ) Church. Built in with a 600,000 gold rouble donation from Tsar Alexander II, this orthodox church is topped with seven typically Russian onion domes and crowned with an orthodox cross. The wooden, gold-gilded iconostasis (catapeteasmă) is allegedly a copy of the altar in Arhangelsk Cathedral, in Moscow s Kremlin. On your right as you exit the church - at the end of the street - is the Neo-Gothic Şuţu Palace, home of the Museum of the History of Bucharest (Muzeul de Istorie al Municipiului Bucureşti; Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 5.00 lei, students and children 2.50 lei), a rather bland exhibition of neolithic artifacts uncovered from around the city and the region. The palace was built from for the wealthy merchant Costache Şuţu. Old postcards and costumes depict life in the Romanian capital in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Retrace your steps past the Russian Church and you will come to the Czech Cultural Centre (Ceske Centrum), a lively hive of cultural activity which has regular film screenings and exhibitions. Carry on to the far end of Str. Ion Ghica and you will see in front of you the unmistakably Neo-Classical exterior of the National Bank of Romania (BNR). It stands on the site of one of the most famous buildings in Romania: the Hanul Serban Voda, which from 1678 until 1883 was the home of various things, from a pub, to an inn to a dormitory for a nearby girl s school. After two fires gutted the building however, the land was levelled and in 1883 work began on the BNR, completed to the designs of French architects Cassien Bernard and Albert Galleron in The building boasts a facade with Corinthian columns, and an enormous central banking hall. The passing of time has seen the building become rather hemmed in, but it remains a classic worthy of admiration. On the bank s far side (on Str. Lipscani) look out for the remains of another 17th century inn: visible below street level through hardened glass. Str. Lipscani gets its name from the large number of traders who, in the 18th century, sold wares here brought from Leipzig, which at the time was one of the largest trading posts in Europe. As Str. Lipscani was the main commercial street in the Old Town, it over time lent its name to the whole area. Ironically - its name and history aside - modern Str. Lipscani has little to recommend it, although it does have some exceptional bars, pubs and clubs, and a theatre. It Old Town Shops Souvenir Shop C-6, Str. Blănari 5, tel. (+4) , Everything you would want from a decent souvenir shop - with both Romania and Bucharest branded gifts available - and more besides. We came across the best Dracula T-Shirts we ve seen so far here, complete with the slogan Send more tourists, the last ones tasted great. We bought two. QOpen 10:00-20:00. Thomas Antiques C-6, Str. Covaci 19, tel. (+4) , (+4) , By common consent the best antique shop in the city. Stocks everything from furniture and paintings to clocks and decorations, with new pieces being added all the time. Upstairs you can even drink coffee, beer or cocktails in the bar: yep, sit and drink coffee on an antique chair and picture yourself doing the same at home. QOpen 10:00-22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-23:45.

10 74 old town old town 75 also has some hidden treasure: if you walk through the little alley opposite Str. Selari (an alley now packed with cafes and bars) you will come to Str. Blanari, home to the St. Nicolas Church. The church was built in the 1880s as a private chapel for Romania s first royal couple: Note that the king and queen still have special seats on the left and right of the church s 18th century icon kept for them should they ever return. The icon itself is said by churchgoers to have magical healing powers. Back on Str. Lipscani, the Hanul cu Tei is a wonderful courtyard (once part of a large inn) which today houses art galleries, antique shops, second-hand book shops, gift and souvenir shops, studios and portrait artists, as well as a lively and bar/restaurant. Head next for Str. Stavropoleos, named for the eponymous church found along its length (Biserica Stavropoleos; Open 08:30-18:00. Services (in Romanian) on Sunday at 09:30, 10:30). The church was built in 1724 at the insistence of a Greek monk, Ioanikie Stratonikeas. It is characterized by its beautiful stone and wood carvings, of which the finest are on the main doors. The courtyard outside (beautiful on a sunny afternoon) has a curious collection of tombstones dating from the 18th century, and you might often see skilled craftsmen working on restoring them. For a beer, coffee, bite to eat or simple jaw dropping experience (the interior is astonishing) head for Caru cu Bere, a beer hall and restaurant dating from It is on the other side of the road to the church a little further up. Church fans might also want to venture out on to Calea Victoriei. A few steps to the right is the Mother of God Church (Biserica Doamnei) built in the late 17th century on the orders of Princess Maria, wife of Prince Serban Cantacuzino. The church was the first in the city to boast octagonal stone pillars: note the decorative floral motifs of oriental origin at the foot and top of each column. They also decorate the door. The ornate building on the other side of the road is the headquarters of CEC, the national savings bank, while the Neo-Classical giant facing it is the National History Museum. On the far side of the museum is Str. Franceza, another Old Town street now blessed with more restaurants, cafes, bars and such like than you could wish for. About half way along look out for the Sf. Dumitru Church: Sf. Dumitru is the patron saint of Bucharest. On the other side of the church is Bucharest s comedy theatre. The busiest street in the Lipscani area is Str. Smardan, home today to any number of bars, pubs, cafes and restaurants. History buffs might like to know that in January 1859 at No. 42 (then the Hotel Concordia), Wallachian deputies elected Alexandru Ioan Cuza as their Prince. As Moldavian deputies had already done likewise a week earlier, the election that took place here created the first unified Romanian state since Mihai Bravu s short-lived reign of At the bottom of Str. Smardan turn left in order reach the birthplace of Bucharest, the Old Court Palace and Church (Palatul şi Biserica Curtea Veche; Open 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon). The Old Court, first built on this site in the second part of the 15th-century by Vlad Ţepeş, was considerably extended during the 16th century, by Mircea Ciobanul, and again a century later, this time at the hand of Constantin Brancoveanu, who added a splendid voievodal palace, decorated with marble and icons. The palace was by and large destroyed by a series of fires in the 19th century however, and subsequently neglected. Much of what remains today was uncovered during archaeological digs that took place from , when the palace ruins were first opened as a museum. There are fragments of the original 15th century walls, as well as remnants of the voievodal palace throne room, in which most of the relics found on the site are exhibited. Next door to the palace is the Old Court Church, the oldest in Bucharest, dating from It was enlarged in 1715, during the reign of Ştefan Cantacuzino, and the frescoes inside, painted by maestros Constantin Lecca and Mişu Papa, were added in The church s exterior was recently renovated, and it looks better than ever. Opposite is the Hanul lui Manuc. Built in 1808 by an Armenian merchant, it was bought and sold many times throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries before being nationalised in It remained state property until 2006, when Constantin Şerban Cantacuzino the heir of its last private owner won an epic legal battle (which had lasted the best part of ten years) to recover ownership. Closed a year later ahead of renovation, part of the inn (the restaurant/bar, courtyard and some function rooms) was finally reopened last year. The inn s hotel (the Dacia) remains closed but is poised to reopen soon. Cafe Manuc C-6, Str. Franceza 62, MP-ta Unirii, tel. (+4) , The Hanul lui Manuc s classic cafe is one of the best places in the city to sit and enjoy either coffee - and there is a huge range - or cocktails (both with and without alcohol). Sit by the window and watch the world pass by outside on busy Piata Unirii. QOpen 07:30-24:00. PEBW Cafeneaua Carada C-6, Str. Eugeniu Carada 5-7, MUniversitate, tel. (+4) , cafeneaua.carada@ ymail.com. Large, impressive new cafe next to Romania s national bank, where the big windows looking out onto one of the city s few busy pedestrian streets are what will have you heading inside. Great coffee and cocktails, it is the perfect meeting place and works well as either coffee house or bar. Add in a gallery (what you see is on sale) and you have the kind of place Bucharest really needs. QOpen 10:00-24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00-24:00. PJEBSW French Bakery C-6, Str. Smardan 13, tel. (+4) , It had to happen. Bucharest s smartest chain of bakeries comes to Old Town, complete with its fine selection of sandwiches, delicious tarts and cakes, great coffee and a super, covered (at this time of year) terrace outside on the sexiest part of Old Town. Could be just about the best place in Bucharest for coffee, regardless of the time of day. QOpen 09:00-24:00. PJSW Grand Cafe Van Gogh C-6, Str. Smardan 9, tel. (+4) , Amazing how quickly this place became the default Bucharest meet you there venue. Its genius is that it s ideal at every time of day: morning coffee or breakfast sat in front of one of the long windows or out on the terrace, a business lunch at one of the wooden tables, a meal and a late night at the bar. The food is good - simple and very reasonably priced - and this Dutch owned, friendly cafe is a winner: you will go back more Old Town Cafés Bruno Wine & Coffee Shop C-6, Str. Covaci 3, tel. (+4) , So much more than wine and coffee on offer here you will be forgiven for thinking you have the wrong place! This is a bistro really, a genuine French style place, where good wine by the glass is available next to a decent spread of simple food, with a regularly changing menu. QOpen 16:00-24:00. PJSW