RIJEKA. Zelena i plava Rijeka Green and blue Rijeka WELCOME TO

Transcription

1 WELCOME TO RIJEKA Broj / Issue 8 SRPANJ / JULY 2014 Godina / Year 5 Nije za prodaju / Not for sale Tarsatički principij i Koblerov trg / Principia at Tarsatica and Kobler Square Novo svjetlo na riječku povijest New light on Rijeka's history Set vemena od Rijeke / Just an hour from Rijeka Na brege je zrasal, z bršjanon obrasal, moj Kastav... Raised on the hill, overgrown with ivy, my Kastav... Tema broja / This edition theme Zelena i plava Rijeka Green and blue Rijeka

2

3 Uvodnik / Editorial Tema broja / This edition theme 8. Riječke šetnice i plaže Rijeka promenades and beaches 8. Intervju / Interview 16. Oliver Frljić Novi grad / New City 22. Rijeka znači more Rijeka means sea 26. Lučke dizalice IMPRESSUM Port cranes 30. Tarsatički principij i Koblerov trg NAKLADNIK / PUBLISHER Hand Press d.o.o. Užarska 14, Rijeka info@handpress.hr Principia at Tarsatica and Kobler Square 36. Slatka strana uspomena na Rijeku The sweet side of memories of Rijeka UREDNIČKI KOLEGIJ / EDITORIAL BOARD Petar Škarpa, Lea Stoiljković Medved, Igor Rivetti, Ljiljana Mamić, Velid Đekić, Sandra Ivanišević 40. Riječki hosteli Rijeka hostels GRAFIČKI UREDNIK / ART DIRECTOR Marijan Baćac 46. Biciklistička transverzala Riječkog prstena Transversal cycling of Rijeka and its surroundings NOVINARI / JOURNALISTS Ljiljana Mamić Pandža, Velid Đekić, Igor Rivetti, Barbara Cakar, Loreta Parkelj, Valentino Benčić, Tina Hervatin, Nina Krapić, Larry Ambrozich UREDNIK FOTOGRAFIJE / PHOTO EDITOR Rino Gropuzzo PRODUKCIJA / PRODUCTION Hand Press d.o.o. TISAK / PRINTED BY GrafikNet d.o.o., Zagreb NAKLADA / EDITION 4000 kom ISSN Izlazi jednom godišnje Published once a year Časopis je realiziran u suradnji 50. Rijeku vole plivači Swimmers love Rijeka Tako je nekada bilo / Once upon a time 54. Najomiljeniji operni majstor The most favourite opera master Sat vremena od Rijeke / Just an hour from Rijeka 60. Na brege je zrasal, z bršjanon obrasal, moj Kastav... Raised on the hill, overgrown with ivy, my Kastav... Zoom 66. Tea Cimaš Slasni kutak / Tasty corner 72. Mediteranska prehrana Mediteranska prehrana s Turističkom zajednicom grada Rijeke This magazine was launched in collaboration with the Rijeka Tourist Board 77. Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - Events 82. Kako nas drugi vide / As others see us

4 6 7

5 8 9 Piše / Written by: Loreta Parkelj Tema broja / This editions theme Projekt Riječke šetnice omogućava zdrave šetnje prirodom u samom gradu Project Rijeka promenades enables healthy walking while in nature in the city itself Zelena i plava Rijeka Green and blue Rijeka Rijeka je dugi niz godina bila grad luke i industrije, grad koji su činile dizalice, pogoni, silosi, postrojenja, a manje se pažnje posvećivalo estetici, uređenju grada i gradskih površina. No, zadnjih desetljeća, u vremenu modernih tehnologija, hale i tvornice postaju napuštena industrijska baština čija je namjena preusmjerena na kulturne i turističke programe, a sve se više osmišljavaju i uređuju sadržaji koji će građanima Rijeke i njihovim gostima omogućiti bolju kvalitetu života. Tako se posljednjih godina u Rijeci posebna pažnja posvećuje uređenju riječkih šetnica i plaža. > For many years Rijeka was a port and industrial town, a town made up of cranes, factories, silos, and less attention was paid to the aesthetics and embellishment of the town and town areas. But in recent years, in the period of modern technology, the industrial halls and factories of our industrial heritage has been abandoned with the aim of redirecting visitors attention to cultural and tourist programs and more and more often these buildings are being designed and regulated in order to provide a better quality of life for the citizens of Rijeka and their guests. So in recent years, particular attention has been given to the organisation of Rijeka s promenades and beaches. >

6 10 11 Kako bi se pokrenulo građane da se zbog osobnog zdravlja što više kreću, da pješače te da im dio svakodnevnog putovanja na posao ne bude vožnja automobilom već hodanje, osmišljen je projekt Riječke šetnice. Osim toga, šetnja gradom omogućuje građanima da bolje upoznaju svoj grad i mnogobrojne prirodne i kulturne ljepote kojima je okružen. Ideja riječkih šetnica polazi od namjere da se povežu krajnji jugoistok i sjeverozapad grada, odnosno da se označenim putovima i stazama pješke može doći od Plumbuma do Preluka. Projekt je pokrenut godine, u sklopu aktivnosti Ureda Rijeka - zdravi grad Grada Rijeke, a konkretna realizacija uslijedila je godine kao plod suradnje Odjela gradske uprave za razvoj, urbanizam, ekologiju i gospodarenje zemljištem s udrugama planinara HT i HP Učka, Duga i Bazovica iz Rijeke. Prsten riječkih šetnica podijeljen je na više dionica i staza koje sve počinju i završavaju na autobusnim postajama gradskog prijevoza, a prolaze kroz najljepše i najzelenije dijelove gradskog područja, uz mnogobrojne povijesne spomenike koji ih okružuju. Na taj prsten postupno će se nadovezati i gradske šetnice koje počinju u centru, npr. od lukobrana do Trsata, od Delte do Katarine ili od željezničke stanice do Drenove. Jedna od šetnica koja će povezivati Rijeku s područjem Općine Čavle je Mlikaričin put, In order to encourage citizens for their own health, to move and walk as much as possible and to point out that travelling to work every day does not have to be a stressful car ride but can be a pleasant walk, the "Rijeka promenades" project was conceived. In addition, the city walking tour allows citizens to get better acquainted with their town and numerous natural and cultural surrounding it. The idea of Rijeka promenades began with the intention of connecting the far southeast and northwest of the city, walking along marked paths that could easily cross the distance from Plumbum to Preluk. The project was launched in 2008 as part of the activities of the "Rijeka - the Healthy City" Department of the City of Rijeka and was completed in its current state in 2010 as a result of collaboration between the City Department for Urban Development, Ecology and Land Management together with hiking associations "HT and HP Učka", "Duga" and "Bazovica" from Rijeka. "The Ring" of Rijeka promenades is divided into several sections and trails all of which begin and end at bus stations of urban transport passing through the most beautiful and greenest parts of the urban area, where numerous historical monuments accompany the route. The existing "ring" will gradually be connected to the city promenades starting from the centre, for example, from the pier to Trsat, from Delta to Katarina or from the railway station to Drenova. od Orehovice do Hrastenica, a put je dobio ime po mlikaricama, ženama koje su nekad svakodnevno s područja Grobinštine dolazile u Rijeku prodavati mlijeko i mliječne proizvode. Kao i Mlikaričin put otvorena je mogućnost da se na riječke šetnice nadovežu šetnice i drugih gradova i općina koje graniče s Rijekom. Važno je napomenuti da se sve staze nastavljaju na poznate planinarske staze te da su na svim stazama postavljene informativne ploče, košare za otpatke i klupice. Zasad Riječani i njihovi gosti imaju prilike šetati po trima uređenim šetnicama. Šetnica Plumbum - Trsat duga je...kako bi se pokrenulo građane da se zbog osobnog zdravlja što više kreću, da pješače te da im dio svakodnevnog putovanja na posao ne bude vožnja automobilom već hodanje, osmišljen je projekt Riječke šetnice......in order to encourage citizens for their own health, to move and walk as much as possible and to point out that travelling to work every day does not have to be a stressful car ride but can be a pleasant walk, the "Rijeka promenades" project was conceived... One of the promenades that will connect Rijeka to the area of the Čavle Municipality is called "Mlikaričin put (the Milkmaids route)" from Orehovica to Hrastenice. This route was named after local milkmaids, women who used to go from the Grobnik area to Rijeka daily to sell milk and milk products. As well as the "Mlikaričin put there is a possibility that the Rijeka promenades will even connect those of other cities and municipalities bordering with Rijeka. It is important to mention that all paths continue to wellknown hiking trails and that all of them have information boards, bins and benches along the way. At the moment, Rijeka citizens and their guests have three organised promenades at their disposal to walk on. The promenade from Plumbum to Trsat is 11.5 km long, starts at Plumbum and goes along Donja and Gornja Vežica, Sveti križ and Strmica to Trsat and it is interesting how some parts of the promenade carry the recognizable names of indigenous littoral zone vegetation, so the path from Donja to Gornja Vežica is called The path of pine and heather, the part from Gornja Vežica to Sveti Križ is called the Path of chub and marshmallow, from Sveti Križ to Sveta Ana is the Path of ash and pomegranate whilst the one going from Sveta Ana to Trsat is called the Path of oak and sage. The most attractive part of this section is the Sveti Križ hill from where a beautiful view over the entire Kvarner

7 12 13 do Svete Ane Staza jasena i šipka, a od Svete Ane do Trsata Staza hrasta i kadulje. Najatraktivniji dio ove dionice je brdo Sveti Križ s kojeg se pruža prekrasan pogled na cijeli Kvarner. Druga dionica Riječkih šetnica ide od Trsata do Orehovice, a duga je 2,5 kilometra. Ona na svom putu obilazi i Trsatsko svetište te Trsatsku gradinu, pružajući šetaču uživanje i u prirodnim kao i u povijesnim i sakralnim ljepotama grada Rijeke. Jednim krakom staza se odvaja do kanjona Rječine, dok drugim krakom nastavlja Mlikaričinim putem, pa sve do Maršića u Općini Čavle. Treća dionica Riječkih šetnica je staza Kroz kanjon Rječine, duga nešto manje od 10 kilometara koja kreće od Orehovice, prelazi preko Rječine do Svete Katarine, gdje se nastavlja do Velog vrha i završava na Drenovi kod groblja. Ova je šetnica posebno atraktivna jer prolazi kanjonom Rječine, gdje se osim uživanja u prirodnim ljepotama, spektakularnim pogledima s obronaka iznad kanjona i upoznavanja flore i faune, mogu vidjeti i stari mlinovi te upoznati vrijedna kulturno-povijesna baština. Plaže su okupane čistim morem Sezona kupanja u Rijeci započinje već početkom svibnja, a traje do kasno u jesen. Obzirom na položaj grada, riječke plaže smještene su na krajnjem istoku i zapadu grada, a sadržajima koje nude zadovoljt će i one željne aktivnog sportskog odmora i provoda, ali i ljubitelje osame i romantike. sports holidays and entertainment, as well as lovers of solitude and romance. On the eastern part of the town, in Pećine, we can find the beaches Križić and Sablićevo, and then towards the east the beaches of Villa Olga, the ex- Park Hotel, Glavanovo, Srebrena, Ružićevo and Grčevo. Right in Pećine there are beaches of the former Sušak which in the late 19th century was known as the beach destination of the Mediterranean. At the western part of the town, beaches extend from Kantrida to Preluk. There are five beaches in Kantrida - Brgudi, Igralište, Vila Nora, Ploče and Razbojna. From Bivio to Preluk is a whole series of small beaches and bays which are connected with its numerous facilities with a promenade - from catering facilities, sports activities, to parks for children placed in a deep shade of greenery. For those who prefer sporting activities, perfect beaches are Skalete, Lungomare, Kostanj, Akademija, the "S" curve and Preluk beach which thanks to its the specific position and the wind that blows there is a known and favourite among surfers. Besides the aforementioned beaches there are a number of small bays in the area, which can only be reached from the sea so ideal for those who prefer privacy. Two Rijeka beaches - Ploče and Kostanj particularly stand out thanks to their quality of facilities. Ploče beach is located next to the Kantrida swimming pool complex, which 11,5 kilometara, kreće od Plumbuma preko Donje i Gornje Vežice, Svetog križa i Strmice do Trsata, a zanimljivost je kako pojedini dijelovi šetnice nose prepoznatljive nazive autohtonog primorskog raslinja, pa se tako staza od Donje do Gornje Vežice zove Staza bora i vrijeska, dio od Gornje Vežice do Svetog Križa Staza klena i sljeza, od Svetog Križa...ideja riječkih šetnica polazi od namjere da se povežu krajnji jugoistok i sjeverozapad grada, odnosno da se označenim putovima i stazama pješke može doći od Plumbuma do Preluka. Osim toga, šetnja gradom omogućuje građanima da bolje upoznaju svoj grad i mnogobrojne prirodne i kulturne ljepote kojima je okružen......the idea of Rijeka promenades began with the intention of connecting the far southeast and northwest of the city, walking along marked paths that could easily cross the distance from Plumbum to Preluk. In addition, the city walking tour allows citizens to get better acquainted with their town and numerous natural and cultural surrounding it bay extends. In other parts of Rijeka the promenade goes from Trsat to Orehovica and is 2.5 kilometres long. On its way, it also visits the Shrine of Trsat and Trsat Castle, providing the walker with the possibility of enjoying the natural, historical and religious beauties of the city of Rijeka. One extension of the path is separated by the canyon on the River Rječina, whilst another extension continues along the Milkmaid path all the way to Maršić in the municipality of Čavle. The third part of Rijeka promenades is the "Along the River Rječina canyon" which is slightly less than 10 kilometres long, starting from Orehovica and crossing the Rječina River to Sveta Katarina (St Catherine) where it continues to Veli vrh and ending near to the cemetery on Drenova. This promenade is particularly attractive as goes through the Rječina river canyon, where besides enjoying the natural beauties and spectacular views from the hills above the canyon and getting to know the flora and fauna, old mills and valuable cultural and historical heritage can be discovered. Beaches bathed by a clear sea Rijeka s bathing season starts at the beginning the May and lasts until late autumn. Considering the location of the town, Rijeka s beaches are located in the extreme eastern and extreme western parts of the city whilst the facilities offered will also satisfy those looking for active

8 14 15 Na istočnom dijelu grada, Pećinama, smjestile su se plaže Križić i Sablićevo, a potom prema istoku slijede plaže Vila Olga, ex hotel Park, Glavanovo, Srebrena, Ružićevo te Grčevo. Upravo se na Pećinama nalaze plaže nekadašnjeg Sušaka koji je krajem 19. stoljeća bio poznat kao kupališno odredište na Mediteranu. Na zapadu grada, plaže se pružaju od Kantride do Preluka. Na Kantridi se nalazi pet plaža - Brgudi, Igralište, Vila Nora, Ploče i Razbojna. Od Bivia do Preluka cijeli je niz manjih plaža i uvala koje su povezane šetnicom s brojnim sadržajima - od ugostiteljskih objekata, sportskih aktivnosti, do parkova za djecu smještenih u dubokoj hladovini zelenila. Za one koji vole uživati u sportskim aktivnostima idealne su plaže Skalete, Lungomare, Kostanj, Akademija, S zavoj te plaža Preluk koja je zbog specifičnog položaja i vjetra koji tamo puše poznata i omiljena među surferima. Uz spomenute plaže, na ovom se području može naći niz malih uvalica do kojih se može doći samo s morske strane, idealnih za one koji vole osamu. Svojom kvalitetom i ponudom ističu se dvije riječke plaže - Ploče i Kostanj. Plaža Ploče nalazi se neposredno do bazenskog kompleksa na Kantridi, najvećeg i najljepšeg kompleksa tog tipa u Hrvatskoj. Plaža posljednje tri godine nosi oznaku Plave zastave, što je oznaka kvalitete prema međunarodnim standardima. Plaža je višestruko nagrađivana Na riječkim plažama mogu uživati i četveronožni ljubimci i to bez brige da će njihovim vlasnicima netko prigovarati što svoje pse vode na more. Naime, u Rijeci se nalaze čak dvije plaže za pse - jedna je smještena na Kantridi, a druga na Brajdici... Rijeka's beaches can also be enjoyed by your four legged friends, without worrying that someone will grumble to their owners for bringing their dogs to the beach. There are even two dog beaches - one is located at Kantrida whilst the other is situated at Brajdica... is the largest and most beautiful complex of its kind in Croatia. It has flown the Blue Flag for the last three years, a mark of quality according to international standards. The beach is a multiple award-winning for its organisation and is a real hit among swimmers rankings among the most beautiful beaches on the Adriatic. In 2012 in the selection for the best beaches in the Croatian part of the Adriatic it was proclaimed the best urban beach. Rijeka can boast za uređenje, pravi je hit među kupačima i ubraja se među najljepše plaže na Jadranu te je godine na izboru najboljih hrvatskih plaža na Jadranu proglašena najboljom urbanom plažom. Rijeka se može pohvaliti još jednom plažom - plažom Kostanj, prvom u Hrvatskoj koja je prilagođena osobama s invaliditetom. Plaža se nalazi na zapadnom dijelu grada, neposredno uz obalnu cestu koja Rijeku povezuje s opatijskom rivijerom, a korisnici plaže prvenstveno su osobe s teškim tjelesnim oštećenima i njihove obitelji. Riječ je o jednoj od najopremljenijih plaža ovog tipa na Mediteranu, gdje uz pomoć posebnih naprava za spuštanje teških invalida u more, rampe za spuštanje lakših invalida te ostale opreme i najteži invalidi mogu uživati u u čarima mora. Ova plaža već četiri godine nosi oznaku kvalitete Plavu zastavu, a svakog je ljeta posjećuje velik broj osoba s invaliditetom iz cijele Hrvatske i inozemstva. Na riječkim plažama mogu uživati i četveronožni ljubimci i to bez brige da će njihovim vlasnicima netko prigovarati što svoje pse vode na more. Naime, u Rijeci se nalaze čak dvije plaže za pse - jedna je smještena na Kantridi, na nasipu istočno od pomoćnog nogometnog stadiona Kantrida, a druga na Brajdici, južno od ulaza u tunel ceste D-404. Na obje plaže uređeni su sunčalište i prilaz moru, a na plažama se uz košarice za otpatke i držače za PVC vrećice nalaze i tuševi sa slavinama i gumenim crijevima za lakše pranje pasa. Važno je napomenuti kako učestala mjerenja kakvoće kvalitete morske vode na riječkim plažama pokazuju kako kupači slobodno mogu uživati jer je morska voda izvrsne sanitarne kakvoće. another beach - Kostanj beach, the first beach in Croatia to be adapted for the disabled. The beach is located on the western part of town, close to the coastal road connecting Rijeka with the Opatija Riviera whilst its users are primarily people with severe physical injuries and their families. This is one of the best equipped beaches of its type on the Mediterranean, where, with the help of special devices for lowering the severely disabled into the sea, a barrier for lowering people with minor disabilities and other equipment, even the most disabled person can enjoy the charms of the sea. For four years, this beach has been labelled with a mark of quality - the Blue Flag, and every summer it is visited by numerous people with disabilities from all over Croatia and abroad. Rijeka's beaches can also be enjoyed by your four legged friends, without worrying that someone will grumble to their owners for bringing their dogs to the beach. There are even two dog beaches - one is located at Kantrida, on the embankment situated to the east from the Kantrida auxiliary football stadium whilst the other is situated at Brajdica, south of the entrance to the D-404 road tunnel. A sunbathing area and the entrance to the sea has been set up on both beaches, and as well as bins and holders for PVC bags there are also showers with taps and rubber hoses so dogs can be washed more easily. It is important to mention that frequent measurements of the quality of the sea water on Rijeka s beaches show that bathers can freely enjoy themselves as the sea water is of an excellent quality of hygiene.

9 16 17 Piše / Written by: Ljiljana Mamić Intervju / Interview Oliver Frljić Riječka industrijska baština važan je dio identiteta grada Rijeka s industrial heritage is an important part of the city s identity Od jeseni iduće godine intendantsku palicu riječkog nacionalnog teatra HNK Ivana pl. Zajca preuzet će najkontroverzniji kazališni redatelj današnjice, 38-godišnji Oliver Frljić koji je na zagrebačkoj Akademiji dramske umjetnosti diplomirao filozofiju i religijsku kulturu te kazališnu režiju. Njegove predstave od samoga početka najavljivale su novo kazališno doba u kojemu, kako navodi kritika, radikalne kazališne estetike uspijevaju pronaći istinski dijalog sa svim članovima kazališne zajednice. Turbofolk, Bakhe, Zoran Đinđić, Danteova smrt, Škrtac, samo su neke od brojnih Frljićevih predstava o kojima uvijek iznova dugo javno raspravljaju politički i kazališni krugovi, kao i publika. Hrabro, provokativno i bezobrazno istinito, tek su neke od karakteristika Frljićevih kazališnih uradaka kojima je osvojio niz domaćih i međunarodnih nagrada i priznanja. Program koji je ovaj redatelj, zajedno s dramaturgom Marinom Blaževićem, predložio za kazališnu sezonu 2015/2016, kazao je riječki gradonačelnik Vojko Obersnel, jamči četiri dinamične godine, dok predsjednik Kazališnog vijeća Elvio Baccarini poručuje da Frljićev koncept nedvojbeno uspješno može odgovoriti potrebama kazališta 21. stoljeća. Rijeka uvijek iznova dokazuje kako je u hrvatskim okvirima drugačija i posebna. U Rijeci sam ostvario tri projekta, a već s prvom predstavom Turbofolk započeo sam afirmaciju riječkog kazališta u europskom kontekstu, što ćemo i dalje nastaviti. Također vjerujem da će program biti važan element u kandidaturi Rijeke za Europsku prijestolnicu kulture, kazao je Frljić u razgovoru za Welcome to Rijeka. Gospodine Frljić, u Rijeci ste već radili predstave Turbofolk i Škrtac, a nakon posljednje Aleksandra Zec dolazite na mjesto intendanta riječkog nacionalnog kazališta. Kako ste doživjeli Rijeku i Riječane? Zasada imam samo pozitivna iskustva. U hrvatskom kontekstu Rijeka je grad u kojem se najviše osjećam doma - bez obzira radilo se o dužem ili kraćem boravku. Riječani se vole pohvaliti kako žive u multikulturalnom gradu i da su prihvaćanje različitosti i tolerancija njihove najveće vrijednosti. Kakva je Vaša percepcija po tom pitanju? Mislim da Riječani ne pretjeruju. Rijeka je nešto što, u hrvatskom i regionalnom kontekstu, uspostavlja dobrodošlu razliku. Tu, u prvom redu, mislim na spomenuto prihvaćanje drugačijeg i toleranciju. Navest ću primjer iz svoje profesije. Predstava Turbo-folk koju sam napravio u HNK Ivana pl. Zajca i koja je otvorila put mojoj međunarodnoj From the autumn of next year the theatre manager s rod of the Ivan pl. Zajc Rijeka National Theatre will be taken over by the most controversial theatre director of the moment, 38-year-old Oliver Frljić who graduated in philosophy, religious culture and theatre direction at the Academy of Dramatic Arts. From the beginning his performances announced a new theatrical era in which, according to critics, 'radical theatrical aesthetics managed to find a genuine dialogue with all members of the theatre community. Turbo folk, Bakhe, Zoran Đinđić, Dante s Death and The Miser are just some of Frljić's many performances for which time and again there have been long and public debates in both political and theatrical circles, as well as within the audience themselves. Brave, provocative and impudently true are just some of the features of Frljić theatre works with which he has won many national and international awards and recognitions. The program recommended by this director, together with dramaturge Marin Blažević, for the 2015/2016 theatre season, states Rijeka Mayor Vojko Obersnel, guarantees a dynamic four years, whilst the president of the Theatre Council Elvio Baccarini says that Frljić's concept can undoubtedly successfully meet the needs of the 21st century theatre. "Over and over again Rijeka has proved that the Croatian context is always different and particular. In Rijeka, I have brought three projects to fruition and already with the first performance of "Turbo-folk" I began to affirm the Rijeka Theatre in a European context, which we will of course continue. I also believe that the program will be an important element in the candidacy of Rijeka as European Capital of Culture Frljić said in an interview for Welcome to Rijeka. Mr. Frljić, you have already done performances of Turbofolk and The Miser in Rijeka, and after the last one, Aleksandra Zec you achieved the position of theatre manager of the Rijeka National Theatre. What is your experience of Rijeka and its inhabitants? Until now I have only had positive experiences. In a Croatian context, Rijeka is a town where I feel the most at home - regardless of whether it is for a long or short stay. The citizens of Rijeka like to boast that they live in a multicultural city and that the acceptance of diversity and tolerance are their greatest values. How do you perceive that? I think that the citizens of Rijeka are not exaggerating. Rijeka is something that in a Croatian and regional context establishes a very welcome difference. Firstly coming back to your point about the acceptance of different and tolerance, I will give you an

10 u hrvatskom kontekstu Rijeka je grad u kojem se najviše osjećam doma - bez obzira radilo se o dužem ili kraćem boravku......in a Croatian context, Rijeka is a town where I feel the most at home - regardless of whether it is for a long or short stay... karijeri, mogla se u tom trenutku dogoditi samo u ovom gradu. Ona je postala europski promotor Rijeke. Igrali smo je u Berlinu, Beču, Budimpešti, Bratislavi i dr. U Rijeku ste došli na poziv gradonačelnika Vojka Obersnela raditi predstavu Aleksandra Zec. Što Rijeku čini posebnom u odnosu na druge hrvatske gradove? Je li ona uvijek hrabrija od drugih ili se radi o nečem drugom? Uz hrabrost, tu se radi i o jednoj izraženoj socijalnoj svijesti. Rijeka je prepoznala važnost ove teme. Jedan Zagreb, uz sve svoje kulturne institucije, nakon slučaja s kazalištem Gavella nije našao niti interes niti volju za realizaciju projekta Aleksandra Zec. Štoviše, mogla se osjetiti jedna vrsta olakšanja kod dijela medija i kulturne javnosti. Koja je uopće uloga kazališta danas? Mislite li kako bi ono, kao i intelektualne elite, trebalo biti pokretač promjena i puno kritičnije prema političkim i društvenim kretanjima? Kazalište ne bi trebalo biti samo puki kroničar stvarnosti u kojoj živimo, nego rasadnik društvene odgovornosti. Predstava Aleksandra Zec, ali i niz projekata koje sam radio van Hrvatske, napravljeni su upravo s tim ciljem. Bez izgrađene etičke platforme teatar ne može doći do estetskih pitanja. Predsjednik Kazališnog vijeća Elvio Baccarini najavio je kako je Vaš program koji ste napisali zajedno s dramaturgom Marinom Blaževićem, vrlo dinamičan, repertoarno inovativan, a posebice u segmentu opere. Otkrijte nam bar dio toga što pripremate Riječanima i njihovim gostima. Citirat ću riječi Branka Gavelle koje smo uzeli za moto našeg programa i koje najbolje sažimaju naše idejne smjernice: U onoj mjeri u kojoj kazalište prima u sebe žive i postojeće društvene elemente, u toj ih istoj mjeri ono i razvija, produbljuje i širi. Kazalište svake večeri iz bezoblična skupa slučajno okupljenih pojedinaca stvara živu, organiziranu zajednicu, koja je oživjela kao kolektiv, probudila svoje zaspale društvene porive u skupnoj idealnoj dramskoj akciji što povezuje i ujedinjuje glumce i publiku, autora i slušatelje, ideju i njezine žive nositelje. Ne imati kazalište znači biti prazna, nesvjesna gomila - imati loše kazalište ukazuje na duboku krizu i bolest društva u njegovim temeljima. example from my profession. The Turbo-folk performance I did at the Ivan pl. Zajc CNT which opened the door to my international career, could only have happened at that particular time in this city. It became a European promoter of Rijeka. It was played in Berlin, Vienna, Budapest, Bratislava and other countries. You came to Rijeka at the invitation of Mayor Vojko Obersnel to perform in Aleksandra Zec. What makes Rijeka special in comparison to other Croatian towns? Is it braver than the others or is there something else about it? In addition to bravery, there is also an observable social awareness here. Rijeka has recognized the importance of this theme. When speaking about Zagreb, with all its cultural institutions, after the situation with the Gavella theatre I didn't have any interest or willingness in implementing the "Aleksandra Zec project. Moreover, it is possible to feel a kind of relief from the media and cultural milieus. What is the role of theatre today? Apart from the intellectual elite, do you think that it should be a driver of change and be much more critical towards both political and social movements? Theatre should not just be a mere chronicler of the reality in which we live, but also a seed-plot of social responsibility. Aleksandra Zec as well as many other projects I have done from Croatia were done precisely for that reason. Without building an ethical platform the theatre cannot reach aesthetic issues. The President of the Theatre Council, Elvio Baccarini, announced that your program written together with the dramaturge, Marin Blažević, is very dynamic and innovative in repertoire, especially in the opera segment. Let us know at least part of what you are preparing for Rijeka citizens and their guests. Let me quote the words of Branko Gavella which we took for the motto to our program and which best summarizes our conceptual guidelines: To the extent in which the theatre receives in itself living and existing social elements, in that same measure it also develops deepens and widens them. Every evening the Theatre creates a vivid, organized community from a formless set of randomly gathered individuals that it has revived as a collective, and woken up their sleeping social impulses in a collective ideal of dramatic action connecting and uniting actors and the audience, the author and the listeners, with an idea and its living holders. Not having the theatre signifies being an empty, unconscious crowd - having bad theatre indicates a profound crisis and disease at the foundations of society. Some consider the time of crisis to be the most fertile ground for creative people. Do you agree with such considerations or are you on the side of those who say that without money quality performances cannot be realized? The theatre has to find out how to articulate the crisis we are going through at a local and global level. At the same time it should also demonstrate a clear social awareness. I do not believe in art that at a time of mass unemployment evades on the lack of money. I've done performances with a variety of budgets Neki smatraju kako je krizno vrijeme najplodniji teren za kreativce. Slažete li se s takvim promišljanjima ili ste na strani onih koji poručuju da se bez novca ne mogu realizirati kvalitetne predstave? Kazalište mora naći način da artikulira krizu kroz koju prolazimo na lokalnoj i globalnoj razini. U isto vrijeme mora pokazati i jasnu socijalnu svijest. Ne vjerujem u umjetnost koja se u vrijeme masovne nezaposlenosti izvlači na nedostatak novca. Radio sam predstave s različitim budžetima - ali uvijek je osnovno pitanje bilo imam li što za reći. Moji kazališni počeci koji sežu u prvu polovicu devedesetih, bili su obilježeni radom bez ikakvih gradskih ili državnih dotacija. Onda slijedi period rada na nezavisnoj sceni, gdje sam radio s minimalnim sredstvima. Tek dolaskom u institucije počinjem raditi u malo stabilnijem sustavu financiranja kulture (iako i tu imam različitih iskustava). Što znači da ste razradili edukativne aspekte kazališta? Blaževićeva i moja ideja je da je potrebno raditi na kultivaciji nove publike pa smo razradili niz programa koji bi na različite načine educirali gledatelje za jedno kompetentnije gledanje. Tim ulaganjem u publiku stvara se mogućnost i za estetski razvoj kazališta. Kompetentna publika postavljat će više izvedbene i estetske kriterije. U nizu programa vjerojatno je najatraktivniji onaj na kraju kojeg gledatelj stječe zvanje Diplomiranog gledatelja te postaje dugoročni gledatelj-suradnik i promotor riječkog kazališta. - but still the basic question is whether I have anything to say. My theatrical beginnings which date back to the first half of the nineties were characterized by work without any city or state grants. Then followed a period of work on the independent scene where I worked with minimal resources. Only when I came to institutions did I start working within a slightly more stable system of financing culture (although even here I have had a variety of experiences). What does it mean that you have worked out the educational aspects of theatre? Blažević and my idea is that we need to work on cultivating a new audience, so we have developed a series of programs that in different ways will educate spectators in viewing a more competent spectacle. Such investment in the audience creates the possibility for the aesthetic development of the theatre. A competent audience will appoint greater performance and aesthetic criteria. In a series of programs, the most attractive one is probably a program at the end of which the spectator obtains the title of Graduated spectator thus becoming a longterm spectator co-operator and promoter of Rijeka Theatre. As a theatre manager, how do you intend turning towards the international cooperation of European funding. What are your plans? This ambitiously conceived program will, also try to find alternative sources of funding in order to be executed. In this regard

11 20 21 Kao intendant se namjeravate okrenuti međunarodnoj suradnji, odnosno europskim fondovima. Što planirate? Ovako ambiciozno zamišljen program za svoju realizaciju mora naći i alternativne izvore financiranja. U tom smislu će se, s inozemnim partnerima, osmisliti projekti i konkurirati za sredstva iz projekta Kreativna Europa za koje je Europska unija izdvojila čak milijardu i osamsto milijuna eura u razdoblju od do godine. U svojim planovima niste zanemarili ni kandidaturu Rijeke za Europsku prijestolnicu kulture. Na što bi Rijeka mogla postaviti krunu te titule? Kazalište mora postati snažan promotor europskog identiteta Rijeke. Ideja je da se određeni projekti i programske jedinice direktnije povežu s konceptom Rijeke kao Europske prijestolnice kulture. Također planiramo konzultirati kazališta u gradovima koji su već bili Europske prijestolnice kulture i napraviti analizu njihove uloge u procesu kandidature. Vaše produkcije predstavljene su na brojnim europskim, ali i na festivalima u Sjevernoj i Južnoj Americi i Aziji. Koji su Vaši najveći aduti u privlačenju publike? Da bi riječko kazalište privuklo publiku u lokalnoj zajednici, ono mora snažnije ući u tu zajednicu, započeti kreativan dijalog s njom, adekvatno je reprezentirati. Međutim, tu priča ne staje jer naša ambicija je da Zajc bude snažno foreign partners will be asked to develop projects and funding will be applied for from the "Creative Europe" programme for which the European Union has allocated one billion eight hundred million euros in the period from 2014 to In your plans, you haven t even forgotten the Rijeka s candidacy for the European Capital of Culture. On what might Rijeka put the crown of that title? The theatre has to become a strong promoter of Rijeka s European identity. The idea is that certain projects and program units will connect more directly with the concept of Rijeka as the European Capital of Culture. We are also planning to consult theatres in cities that have already been European Capitals of Culture so as to analyse their roles in our candidacy procedure. Your productions have been presented at numerous European festivals and even festivals in North and South America and Asia. What are your ace cards in attracting an audience? To be able to attract an audience in the local community, the Rijeka Theatre has to enter more strongly in that community, by starting a creative dialogue with it and by representing it in an adequate manner. But, the story doesn t end here as our ambition is that Zajc should have a strong presence on the regional scene as well as a position on the international scene. prisutan na regionalnoj sceni, kao i da se pozicionira na međunarodnoj sceni. Poznato je kako ste u Zagrebu surađivali s većinom skupina nezavisne scene. Kako biste ocijenili potencijale riječke nezavisne scene? Postoji veliki potencijal, a iskustva ove scene su jako važna i za institucionalni sektor. U svakom slučaju, nadam se da ću rad riječke scene u budućnosti moći pratiti još intenzivnije. Puno je novih projekata pred Vama. Između ostalog, u Grazu u Schauspielhausu postavljate Woyzecka, a u Münchenu ćete realizirati projekt o ksenofobiji prema imigrantima iz jugoistočne Evrope. Čime ste osvojili europsku publiku? Nakon gostovanja na najjačim europskim kazališnim festivalima - bečkom Wiener Festwochen-u i briselskom Kunstenfestivaldesarts - gdje je publika imala priliku vidjeti moje produkcije, krenuli su pozivi raznih europskih kazališnih kuća i festivala. Europskoj publici je zanimljivo vidjeti neke naše, vrlo lokalne teme o kojima se progovara suvremenim kazališnim jezikom. Početkom srpnja, u sklopu francuskog festivala Le Manifeste vodit ćete desetodnevnu radionicu o suvremenom političkom kazalištu, što dovoljno govori o tome koliko Vas cijeni međunarodna stručna javnost. Je li jedan od razloga i u činjenici da svojim predstavama uvijek otvarate teme o kojima mnogi drugi redatelji nisu imali hrabrosti progovoriti? Izbor tema je svakako jako važan. Ne vidim tu neku posebnu hrabrost. Smatram svojom zadaćom govoriti o onim stvarima koje društvo gura pod tepih. Majstori 6000 godina stare umjetnosti i znanosti procijenili su da baš Rijeka ima i vjetar i vodu, što je doslovan prijevod riječi feng shui, kao i povoljan protok energije, što je jedan od ključnih uvjeta za sretan i dobar život. Hoće li se to odraziti i na Vaše umjetničko djelovanje u gradu na Rječini? Vidjet ćemo. Jeste li u Rijeci možda pronašli mjesto koje Vas posebno inspirira? Postoji mnoštvo mjesta. Radeći posljednji projekt, imao sam priliku bolje upoznati Trsat. Za predstavu Škrtac velika inspiracija mi je bilo brodogradilište 3. maj. Općenito, riječka industrijska baština je nešto što me fascinira i što smatram da je važan dio identiteta grada. Einstein je rekao kako je um poput padobrana funkcionira jedino ako je otvoren, kao što je i Rijeka otvorena za ljude koji tako razmišljaju. Hoće li Vam zbog te činjenice i u kojoj mjeri u Rijeci biti lakše raditi nego drugdje? Do sada je bilo. Nadam se da će tako biti i u budućnosti. It is known that you have cooperated with a large number of groups on the independent scene in Zagreb. How would you rate Rijeka s independent scene potential? There is great potential whilst the experiences of such a scene are very important even for the institutional sector. In any case, I hope to be able to monitor the Rijeka scenes more intensively in the future. There are many new projects in front of you. Among others in Schauspielhaus in Graz you are setting up "Woyzeck" whilst in Munich you will realize a project about xenophobia towards immigrants from Eastern Europe. How did you win the European public? After guest performances at the most powerful European theatre festivals - the Wiener Festwochen and the Brussels Kunstenfestivaldesarts - where audiences had a chance to see my productions calls started coming from various European theatres and festivals. The European audience is interested in seeing some of our very local issues which we speak about in the language of contemporary theatre. At the beginning of July as part of the French Le Manifesta festival you are holding a ten-day workshop on contemporary political theatre which says enough about how much you are appreciated by the international professional community. Is one of the reasons for this the fact that you always open topics with your performances that many other directors to not have the courage to raise? The selection of topics is definitely very important. I do not see any particular courage in it. I consider it my duty to speak about those things that society tries to push under the carpet. Masters of a 6000 year old art and sciences have estimated that the fact that Rijeka has both wind and water, which is a literal translation of the word Feng Shui, as well as a beneficial flow of energy which is one of the key requirements for both a happy and a good life. Will this be reflected on your artistic activity in the city on the Rječina? We will see. Have you perhaps found a place that particularly inspires you in Rijeka? There are many places. Working on my last project, I had the opportunity of getting better acquainted with Trsat. The 3.maj shipyard was great inspiration for The Miser performance. Generally speaking, Rijeka s industrial heritage is something that fascinates me and that I see as an important part of the city s identity. Einstein said that "the mind is like a parachute - it only works if it is open," Rijeka too is open to people who think like that. Would it be easier for you to work in Rijeka than somewhere else for that reason and how would you go about it? Up until now it is. And I hope it will continue to be so in the future.

12 22 23 Piše / Written by: Larry Ambrozich Novi grad / New city Ljeti se već tradicionalno održavaju manifestacije koje slave čvrstu vezu mora i ljudi Traditionally, during the celebration of summer events a tight bond between the sea and people takes place Rijeka znači more Rijeka means sea Neraskidiva veza Rijeke i mora može se u gradu primijetiti na svakom koraku, a u čast toj vezi grada i mora posvećene su i brojne manifestacije, što je posebno vidljivo početkom ljeta kad more postane pristupačnije i mirnije. Jedno od brojnih događaja uz more je i Fiumare. An unbreakable bond between Rijeka and sea can be seen in this town at almost every step and in honour of that connection between the town and the sea where numerous events have been dedicated, and which is particularly noticeable at the beginning of the summer when the sea becomes more accessible and quieter. One of the numerous events close to the sea is Fiumare.

13 24 25 Fiumare Kvarnerski festival mora i pomorske tradicije. Održava se početkom lipnja i njime se Rijeka vraća stotinu godina unatrag. Oživljava vrijeme kad je prostor uz njezin Mrtvi kanal bio mjesto intenzivnoga trgovačkog prometa. U vrijeme kad su s kvarnerskih otoka kao i iz svih dijelova Primorja, u Mrtvi kanal uplovljavale brodice prepune robe za prodaju ili daljnji transport, a iz njega isplovljavale također prepune jer bi, iskrcavši ono što imaju, ukrcale ono što nemaju. Primjerice, sol bi mijenjali za brašno, a ribu, maslinovo ulje i vino za alate, proizvode od kože, tkanine itd. Fiumare je prigoda da Riječani i njihovi gosti vide i tradicijske barke, kušaju autohtone proizvode, dive se prekrasnim narodnim nošnjama iz svih krajeva Hrvatske, budu dijelom interaktivnih radionica pomorskih i ribarskih vještina, brodomodelarskih radionica i sl. Prigoda je to i da se uživa u tradicijskim pjesmama i plesovima, organiziranim razgledima kazališta i povijesnih lokacija užeg središta grada, regati tradicijskih barki na jedra. Prigoda da se upoznamo s ribarskim, kalafatskim i pomorskim vještinama, da bar na trenutak zavirimo u Rijeku s kraja 19. i početka 20. stoljeća. Fiumanka U lipnju se održava još jedna manifestacija koja Rijeku, nakon zimskog sna, vraća moru. Fiumanka, jedriličarska fešta koja svake godine okuplja skoro dvije stotine jedrilica Fiumare A Kvarner festival of sea and maritime tradition. It takes place at the beginning of June, bringing Rijeka back in time a hundred of years. It revives the time when the area along its Dead Channel was a place of intensive mercantile traffic. In a time when, from the Kvarner islands as well as from all parts of the littoral, boats sailed in the Dead channel full of goods for sale or onward transportation, and from it also full because, after unloading what they had, they loaded what they did not have. For example, they used to exchange salt for flour, and fish, olive oil and wine for tools, leather products, textile, etc. Fiumare is an opportunity for Rijeka citizens and their guests to see traditional boats, Ne zbiva se Fiumanka samo na moru. Onaj tko je samo jednom bio dijelom ovog praznika mora, vjetra i jedara, zasigurno pamti i urnebesne after partyje priređene na riječkoj rivi ili u nekom od brojnih riječkih pubova, klubova i kafića. Fiumanka does not only take place on the sea. Anyone who has been part of this holiday of the sea, wind and sails just once, will surely remember the hilarious after-parties organized on the Rijeka waterfront or in one of many Rijeka pubs, clubs and cafes. taste autochthonous products, admire beautiful costumes from all over Croatia, and be part of interactive workshops of maritime and fishing skills, ship-modelling workshops and other such things. It is also an occasion to enjoy traditional songs and dances, guided tours of theatres and the historical sites of the narrow city centre, with regattas of traditional sailing boats. It is an occasion to meet the fishing community, caulk and maritime skills, to peek, just for a moment, into Rijeka from the end of 1 the9th and beginning of the 20th century. te više od dvije tisuće sudionika. Termin njezina održavanja uvijek se veže uz sredinu lipnja, a ova kraljica jedriličarskih manifestacija nudi obilje užitaka. Između ostalog Veliku Fiumanku (OPEN regata za krstaše), pa EMSR ili European Media Sailing Race, europsku medijsku regatu. Tu su i Liburnijska regata tj. navigacijska regata krstaša koja se jedri između Malog Lošinja i Rijeke, potom Rotary Regata, humanitarna regata Rotary kluba Rijeka, pa Virtual Fiumanka, regata kojom se jedri iz vlastitog naslonjača jer se radi o kompjuterskoj igrici Virtual skipper, trenutačno najboljoj on-line jedriličarskoj simulaciji. Mnogima najzanimljivije su Liburnijska regata i Velika Fiumanka jer su to, reći će organizatori Fiumanke, regate za jedrilice klase OPEN u kojima mogu sudjelovati i amateri. Fiumanka There is another event taking place in June which brings Rijeka, after its winter sleep, back to the sea. Fiumanka, the sailing festival, which each year brings together nearly two hundred sailing boats and more than two thousand participants. It always takes place in the middle of June when this queen of sailing events offers an abundance of pleasures. Among others the "Velika Fiumanka" (OPEN regatta for cruisers), and EMSR or European Media Sailing Race, and the European Media regatta. Here there is also the Liburnija regatta or navigation cruiser regatta which sails between Mali Lošinj and Rijeka, followed by the Rotary Regatta, a charity regatta organised by the Rotary Club of Rijeka, and after that the Virtual Fiumanka, a regatta which sails from your own armchair as it is a computer game "Virtual Skipper" and currently the best online sailing simulation. For many the most interesting are the Liburnija regatta and the Velika Fiumanka as these are, according to the Fiumanka organizers, regattas for OPEN class sailing boats in which amateurs can also take part.

14 26 27 Piše / Written by: Ljiljana Mamić Novi grad / New city Od travnja ove godine Rijeka ima novu noćnu atrakciju Since April of this year Rijeka has a new night attraction Stare dizalice u novim bojama Old cranes in glittering new colors Od travnja ove godine Rijeka ima i noćnu atrakciju kojom se može svrstati u rang atraktivnih europskih gradova poput Buenos Airesa ili Bilbaa. Stare lučke dizalice koje više nisu u funkciji, obnovljene su krajem prošle godine i vraćene na jednu od najpopularnijih riječkih šetnica - Molo longo, zabljesnuvši u tisućama boja. Pravim svjetlosnim spektaklom kojega potpisuje svjetski stručnjak za rasvjetu, priznati dizajner iz Pule, Dean Skira. Novo je ruho ovim spomenicima Since April of this year Rijeka has had a night attraction that rings among the most attractive of the world s cities like Buenos Aires or Bilbao. The old port cranes that are no longer functional, were renovated at the end of last year, and restored to one of the most popular Rijeka promenades, the Molo longo glittering with thousands of colours; with a real light spectacle which is the work of a world renowned lighting expert and designer from Pula, Dean Skira. The new lučkoj djelatnosti u Rijeci dalo i potpuno novi izgled u večernjim satima, ujedno ih čineći neizostavnim dijelom noćne vizure grada. One su simbol Rijeke, Luke i spomenik generacijama naših sugrađana koji su tamo radili, ali i podsjetnik na neka druga vremena. Čitav spektar boja kojima su osvijetljeni ovi spomenici industrijske baštine simbolizira različitost, odnosno multikulturalnost koja Rijeku čini jedinstvenom u hrvatskim okvirima, pa i znatno šire. attire of these monuments to harbour activities in Rijeka provides them with a completely new look in the evening hours, consequently making them an unavoidable part of the town s panorama at night. They are a symbol of Rijeka, the Port and a monument to the generations of our fellowtownsmen working there and a reminder of days gone by. The entire spectrum of colours with which these monuments of industrial heritage are illuminated symbolizes

15 28 To je dokaz i kako u identitetu ovoga grada postoji puno boja, na što su Riječani oduvijek ponosni. Projekt obnove starih lučkih dizalica, na inicijativu Grada Rijeke, pokrenut je nakon otvorenja riječkog lukobrana za slobodno kretanje građana, što su podržali i Lučka uprava Rijeka te nadležni Konzervatorski odjel. Dizalice se nalaze na području kojim gospodari Lučka uprava Rijeka i dio je zaštićene urbanističke cjeline grada Rijeke, pa tako podliježu Zakonu o zaštiti i očuvanju kulturnih dobara. Sad je na svaku postavljeno više reflektora koji mogu stvarati svjetlost u raznim bojama i različite jačine. Rasvjeta na dizalicama izvedena je LED tehnologijom, uz mogućnost različitog intenziteta osvjetljenja i boja koje su za blagdane, vjerske praznike i dane koji se posebno obilježavaju u Rijeci unaprijed određene, dok će se ostalim danima boje i intenzitet svjetla izmjenjivati. Tako će se, primjerice, tijekom božićno-novogodišnjeg razdoblja izmjenjivati crvena i zelena svjetla, Dan žena će obilježiti crvena i ružičasta boja, 1. maj crvena, Dan sv. Vida i Fiumanku plava, a posebno dizajniranim svjetlom bit će obilježena riječka multikulturalnost i multikonfesionalnost. Naime, u vrijeme uskršnjih blagdana dizalice će svijetliti žutom i bijelom bojom, u vrijeme Kurban-Barjama zelenom i bijelom, a Hanuke plavom i bijelom bojom. Ovi osvijetljeni spomenici lučkoj djelatnosti simbol su industrijske i lučke baštine, ali i neraskidiv dio vizualnog identiteta Rijeke u kojem će još dugo moći uživati, ne samo Riječani, već i svi oni kojima Rijeka jest ili će tek biti, novo turističko odredište. diversity that multiculturalism is making Rijeka unique not only in the Croatian context, but further afield too. It is proof that even the identity of this town has a great many colours and for this Rijeka citizens have always been proud. The reconstruction project of the old port cranes, following an initiative by the City of Rijeka, was launched after the opening of the Rijeka pier for the free movement of its citizens, which was also supported by the Port of Rijeka Authority and the authorized Conservation Department. The cranes are located in an area managed by the Port of Rijeka Authority which is part of the protected zoning of the city of Rijeka as a whole and so is subject to the Law on the Protection and Preservation of Cultural Riches. Now a number of reflectors that can provide different coloured light of various intensity are mounted onto each of them. The crane lighting was carried out using LED technology, with the possibility of having different illumination intensities and predetermined colours for holidays, religious holidays and for those days which are specially celebrated in Rijeka, whilst on other days the colours and light intensity will alternate. For example, during the Christmas and New Year period, red and green lights will alternate, Women's Day will be marked by red and pink colours, the 1st May by a red colour, St. Vitus Day and Fiumanka in blue and a specially designed light will mark Rijeka s multiculturalism and multi-faith society. Namely, during the Easter holidays cranes will light up in yellow and white, they will be in green and white at the Kurban/Greater Bairam festival, whilst Hanukkah will be celebrated in blue and white. These illuminated monuments to harbour activities are a symbol of the city s industrial and port heritage, and are also an inseparable part of its visual identity in which, not only Rijeka citizens but also all those for which Rijeka is or will be a new tourist destination, offering enjoyment to all.

16 30 31 Piše / Written by: Ljiljana Mamić Novi grad / New city Tarsatički Principij i Koblerov trg Principia at Tarsatica and Kobler square Novo svjetlo na riječku povijest New light on Rijeka's history Na mjestu nekadašnjeg kompleksa kasnoantičkog vojnog zapovjedništva zvanog Principij koji datira iz 3. stoljeća, na Trgu Jurja Klovića u riječkom Starom gradu, u veljači ove godine otvoren je Tarsatički principij, uređen prema idejnom rješenju arhitekta Nenada Fabijanića. Time je Rijeka dobila nov, iznimno atraktivan gradski trg koji prikazuje svu povijesnu slojevitost The Principia at Tarsatica on Juraj Klović Square in Rijeka's Old Town was opened in February of this year on the site of the former Late Roman military command complex known as Principij which dates back to the 3rd century. It was set up according to preliminary designs by architect, Nenad Fabijanić. With this new addition, Rijeka now has a very attractive town square which shows all the historical Rijeke, pogodan za brojna kulturna i umjetnička događanja, kao i novu turističku atrakciju u kojoj će zasigurno uživati mnogi posjetitelji grada na Rječini. Postao je i mjesto novog života i okupljanja u srcu grada čime je značajno doprinio unaprjeđenju kvalitete svakodnevnog života građana. Za istaknuti je kako je uređenjem Tarsatičkog principija stvorena mogućnost za prvu stratification of Rijeka, and which is also suitable for numerous cultural and artistic events, as well as being a new tourist attraction which will definitely be enjoyed by many visitors to the city of Rijeka. It has also become a place of new life and a meeting point in the heart of the town which significantly increases the quality of daily life for local citizens. It should be pointed out that the organization

17 32 33 prezentaciju principija u Hrvatskoj, kakve su rijetke i u Europi, a svi pokretni arheološki nalazi pronađeni tijekom istraživanja pohranjeni su u Pomorskom i povijesnom muzeju Hrvatskog primorja. U nizu artefakata pronađenih na arheološkom lokalitetu u središtu grada, pronađen je i listić iz 3. stoljeća za kojeg se pretpostavlja da je dio brončanoga lovorovog vijenca koji se tada običavao polagati na statue. Pomoću 3D pisača izrađena je replika vrijednoga arheološkog nalaza, što predstavlja novi riječki suvenir. Lokalitet novoizgrađenog Tarsatičkog principija otkriva često zaboravljen sloj rimske povijesti Rijeke čijom obnovom je dobiven jedan od atraktivnjih gradskih prostora. Tu je u 3. stoljeću, u sklopu obrambenog sustava Rimskog Carstva koji se pružao od Tarsatike preko Julijskih Alpa, djelovalo vojno zapovjedništvo. Rječnikom carine i policije, bila bi to šengenska granica starog Rimskog Carstva, a za turističke vodiče biser koji pokazuje rimsku povijest grada. Podsjetimo kako je riječki Principij podrazumijevao kompleks zgrada vojnog zapovjedništva južnog sektora obrambenog sustava poznatog pod imenom Claustra Alpia Iuliarum. Sustav je izgrađen sredinom 3. stoljeća kao zadnja crta obrane središta Rimskog Carstva, odnosno u razdoblju kada je Carstvo prolazilo kroz tešku krizu tijekom koje je, uz snažan pritisak barbara na granicama, došlo i do unutarnjih borbi za vlast, što je dodatno oslabilo njegovu obrambenu snagu. Sustav se pružao od Tarsatice (današnje Rijeke) kroz planinske predjele istočnih, odnosno Julijskih Alpa, štiteći najosjetljivije of the Principia at Tarsatica has created the possibility for the first presentation of Principij in Croatia, rare even in Europe, whilst all the movable archaeological artefacts found during research have been stored in the History and Maritime Museum of the Croatian Littoral. Among the many artefacts discovered on this archaeological site in the city centre, was a leaf from the 3rd century, which is assumed to be a part of a bronze laurel that was used at the time on statues. Using 3D printers a replica of a valuable archaeological finding was made, which is now a new Rijeka souvenir. The location of the newly built Principia at Tarsatica reveals an often forgotten layer of the Roman history of Rijeka with which renewal was get one of the most attractive city business facilities. A military command once operated here in the 3rd century, as part of the defence system of the Roman Empire, which extended from Tarsatica over the Julian Alps. Using the vocabulary of customs and police, it would be a type of Schengen border of the old Roman Empire, whilst for tourist guides it is a pearl showing the Roman history of the town. Let us remember that Rijeka's Principij was a complex of buildings of the military command of the southern sector of the defence system, known as Claustra Alpia Iuliarum. The system was built in the mid-3rd century as a last defence line of the centre of the Roman Empire during the period when the Empire was passing through a serious crisis, and in addition to strong pressure from the barbarians on the confines, internal struggles for power were also taking place, which further weakened its defence force. The planinske prolaze. Sam principij bio je standardni dio svih rimskih kastruma, kao njihovo upravno i religijsko središte. Njegov središnji dio zauzimalo je otvoreno dvorište koje je s tri strane bilo okruženo prostorijama. Bila su to skladišta i spremišta oružja. Nasuprot ulazu u principij nalazila se monumentalna zgrada, u antici poznata pod imenom basilica. Iza ove zgrade, na stražnjoj strani principija nalazio se niz prostorija u kojima su bile smještene blagajna, svetište zastava, časnički uredi, pisarnica i ostali slični sadržaji. Upravo takvoj tipologiji odgovara i tarsatički principij, čiji su dijelovi istraženi tijekom posljednjih nekoliko godina. U strukturi ruševnih ostataka inkorporiranih u kasnije izgrađene objekte prepoznaju se monumentalni glavni ulaz, središnje popločeno dvorište, bazilika, skladišni, ali i uredski prostori. Upravo gradnja principija predstavlja prekretnicu u razvoju Tarsatice i početak snažnog urbanističkog i društvenog razvoja grada. Iako je za Rimsko carstvo to bilo iznimno nestabilno vrijeme, za Tarsaticu je ono početak najprosperitetnijeg razdoblja u njezinoj povijesti. Razlog tome možemo potražiti u činjenici da je kao jedina pomorska luka i vojno zapovjedništvo u sustavu Claustrae postala mjesto prihvata i razmještaja vojnih postrojbi i svih njihovih potrepština. Arheološkim istraživanjima povjerenim stručnjacima zagrebačkog system extended from Tarsatica (the present day Rijeka) through the mountainous regions of the Julian Alps to the east, protecting the most sensitive mountain passes. The Principij itself was a standard part of all Roman castrums, as their administrative and religious centre. Its central part was occupied by an open courtyard on three sides surrounded by rooms. These were warehouses used for the storage of weapons. In front of the entrance to the Principij there was once a monumental building, in ancient times known as the basilica. Behind this building, behind the Principij there was a series of rooms where the treasury, the flag sanctuary, the officers' offices, the administrative office and other similar facilities were found. Such a typology corresponds perfectly to the Tarsatica's Principij, parts of which have been examined in recent years. In the structure of ruins which were incorporated into later constructions the monumental main entrance, a paved central courtyard, the basilica, storage facilities as well as the office facilities can be recognised. The construction of the Principij is representative of a turning point in the development of Tarsatica and the beginning of a strong urban and social development of the town. Although for the Roman Empire it was an extremely volatile time, for Tarsatica it was the most prosperous period of its history. The reason for this can be sought in the fact that as the only

18 34 35 Hrvatskog restauratorskog zavoda u Rijeci potvrđene su sve dotadašnje spoznaje o postojanju ostataka srednjeg dijela prednjeg popločenog dvorišta i dijela bočnog, četiri pokrajnje prostorije, dva stepeništa i frontu središnje građevine, vjerojatno bazilike. Rezultati dopunjavaju mozaike gradske povijesti kao i europska saznanja o karakteru i izgledu ovakvih objekata. Osim izgradnje Tarsatičkog principija uređene su i ulice Pod voltun i Stara vrata, te pješačke površine sjeverno i južno od crkve. Valja napomenuti da se na ulazu Tarsatičkog principija nalaze Stara vrata, nekadašnji ulaz u palaču Pretorija Alpske klauzure, što je najstariji arhitekturni spomenik Rijeke po kojemu je ulica i dobila ime. Iako se u datiranju Vrata mnogi autori ne slažu, svi su suglasni oko toga da je taj luk sastavljen od kamenih blokova bez veziva i žbuke te da je unatoč tomu stoljećima odolijevao vremenskim utjecajima. Upravo Stara vrata današnji Tarsatički principij povezuju s Koblerovim trgom koji je obnovljen nakon punih 40 godina. Nekoć je to bio centar grada i trg čija je cijela zapadna strana srušena tijekom Drugog svjetskog rata. Time je nestala i graditeljska cjelina na kojoj su se u kontinuitetu taložila stoljeća neprekinute izgradnje. Današnji Koblerov, navodi u svojoj knjizi Kako čitati grad, istaknuta riječka povjesničarka Radmila Matejčić, proširen je za čitav taj blok zgrada. Cijeli taj prostor vjerno dočaravaju grafike i slike Romola Venuccija, prikazujući nekadašnju burzu i tržnicu. Upravo su se na Koblerovom trgu obavljali svi poslovi na otvorenom i upravo je on stoljećima bio žila kucavica javnog života Rijeke. Na taj su trg žene iz okolice Rijeke svakodnevno, pa i nedjeljom, donosile mlijeko, povrće, perad i sve ostalo potrebno za opskrbu stanovnika. Tek početkom 19. stoljeća Koblerov je trg izgubio značaj gradskog središta, a sve njegove značajke tada je preuzelo današnje Korzo, odnosno najprometnija riječka šetnica. Tijekom njegova uređenja sedamdesetih godina prošloga stoljeća, Tvornica papira, u povodu 150. obljetnice svog postojanja, po projektu arhitekta Igora Emilija, podigla je fontanu Stari kolodrob. Riječ je o zdencu koji je poprimio ulogu spomenika. Od elemenata tvorničkog starog kamenog mlina za papir, kolodroba, Emili je stvorio osebujno djelo u znak sjećanja na mnoga radnička pokoljenja. Iz te fontane se nepresušno, poput mlaza vode iz amfore na riječkom grbu, izlijeva voda koja je Rijeci od tarsatičkih vremena bila izvor blagostanja. Ovogodišnjim radovima uređeno je četvornih metara Koblerovog trga između robne kuće Korzo, Varteksa, zgrade Delte, Zajčeve kuće i Jadroagenta. Osim ovih lokaliteta novim je svjetlom obasjana i riječka prošlost koja uvijek iznova otkriva zanimljive priče o neuhvatljivom riječkom identitetu, promjenama kroz koje grad prolazi, urbanosti i kulturi, o europskom duhu, otvorenosti i kozmopolitizmu - svemu onome što Rijeku, posebice u hrvatskim okvirima, čini jedinstvenom. Stoga svima vama koji je još niste posjetili ne preostaje ništa drugo nego da dođete i sami se u to uvjerite sea port and military command in the system of Claustrae, it become an area for the reception and deployment of military forces and all their equipment. In the course of archaeological research entrusted to the experts of the Zagreb Croatian Conservation Institute in Rijeka all the previously known facts were confirmed with regard to the existence of the remains of the central part of the anterior paved yard and part of the side yard, four adjoining rooms, two staircases and the front line of the central building, which was probably a basilica. Results complement the mosaics of the city's history as well as European findings about the character and appearance of such buildings. Besides the construction of the Principia at Tarsatica, Pod voltun and Stara vrata streets were set up too as pedestrian areas on the north and south of the church. It is worth mentioning that at the entrance of the Principia at Tarsatica there is an Old Gateway, which was the former entrance to the palace of Pretoria of the Alpine cloister, which is the oldest architectural monument in Rijeka after which this street got its name. Although many authors disagree about the period to which the Old Gateway dates back, they are all in agreement on the fact that this arc is composed of stone blocks without binding material and plaster, which despite the centuries has resisted all weather conditions. This Old Gateway connects the current Principia at Tarsatica with Kobler square, reconstructed for the first time in 40 years. It was once the centre of the town and the square whose entire west side was destroyed during World War II. As a consequence the architectural ensemble, on which centuries of uninterrupted construction have been continuously deposited, disappeared. Today Kobler Square, as written in the book "How to read the City" by prominent Rijeka historian, Radmila Matejčić, was extended for that entire block of buildings. The entire space is accurately evoked in the prints and paintings of Romolo Venucci, which show the former stock exchange and market. It was on Kobler Square that all outdoor activities were carried out and for centuries being an important part of the public life of Rijeka. Here women came daily from the surrounding areas of Rijeka, including Sundays, bringing milk, vegetables, poultry and everything else necessary to feed the population. Only at the beginning of the 19th century did Kobler Square lose its importance in the city centre its features which were taken over by the present day Korzo which is the busiest promenade in Rijeka. During its planning in the 1970s, the Tvornica papira (Paper Factory), built the "Stari kolodrob fountain (The Old Paper Millstone)".to celebrate its 150th anniversary, designed by architect, Igor Emili, This is a well which has assumed the role of a monument. Emili created a distinctive work in memory of many generations of workers from the factory elements of the old paper mill stone, the so called kolodrob. Water pours inexhaustibly from this fountain, like the stream of water from the amphorae on Rijeka s coat of arms, which in Tarsatica s times was the source of well-being. With work being carried out throughout the year the 1,300 square meters of Kobler Square have been developed between the Korzo department store, Varteks, the Delta building, Zajc s house and the Jadroagent. As well as these locations being illuminated with new light Rijeka s history has also been brought to light, revealing again and again the interesting stories of its elusive identity. Together with the changes throughout the city urbanity and culture also run hand in hand, showing its European spirit, openness and cosmopolitanism; everything that makes Rijeka, particularly in the Croatian context, unique. Therefore all those who have still not visited it, have no other choice but to go there and see it for yourself.

19 36 37 Piše / Written by: Barbara Cakar Novi grad / New city Nekakvom neobičnom hipnotičkom moći uvukla se u naše živote. Danas je to namirnica službeno odgovorna za stimuliranje dobroga raspoloženja, namirnica bez koje ni astronauti ne idu u svemir. Priča kako je vijest o čokoladi na španjolski dvor prvi put donio Kolumbo It has slipped into our lives with an unusual hypnotic power. Today it is the food officially responsible for stimulating a good mood and a food without which not even astronauts go into space. The story of how news about chocolate reached the Spanish court was initially brought by Columbus in the 15th century whilst the cocoa seeds arrived in 1528 with Spanish conquistador, Herman Cortes, after conquering South America where he was offered hot liquid cocoa in large cups of gold by the Aztec ruler, Montezuma. At the end of last year the story also came to Rijeka, when Rijeka chocolate was presented. It was produced by Rab entrepreneur Josip Brna, owner of the family business Vilma, with the support of the City of Rijeka and Rijeka Tourist Board, thus reviving the somewhat forgotten story of the late 19th century when the Rijeka cocoa and chocolate factory was opened being the first production unit for this kind of products in Croatia. The popular Rijeka chocolate Slon (Elephant) was produced until the mid-20th century. Then the machines became silent and their dust was removed by Rijeka youngsters. Čokolade su postale dio redovne ponude suvenira u Rijeci Chocolate becomes part of the regular offer of souvenirs in Rijeka Slatka strana uspomena na Rijeku The sweet side of memories of Rijeka

20 38 39 u 15. st., a sjeme kakaovca godine španjolski konkvistador Herman Cortes nakon osvajanja Južne Amerike, gdje mu je u velikim zlatnim peharima toplu kakao tekućinu ponudio astečki vladar Montezuma, krajem prošle godine na osebujan je način ispričana i u Rijeci, kad je predstavljena Riječka čokolada. Izradio ju je rapski poduzetnik Josip Brna, vlasnik obiteljske tvrtke Vilma, uz podršku Grada Rijeke i Turističke zajednice grada Rijeke, oživljavajući time i pomalo zaboravljenu priču s kraja 19. stoljeća kad je otvorena Riječka tvornica kakaa i čokolade - prvi pogon za industrijsku proizvodnju te vrste proizvoda na području Hrvatske. Tu se do sredine 20. st. proizvodila tada popularna Riječka čokolada Slon. Potom su strojevi utihnuli, a prašinu s njih skinuli su najmlađi Riječani. Ta je čokoladna priča potaknula suradnike riječkog gradonačelnika da pokušaju ponovno oživjeti proizvodnju riječke čokolade, što joj je i uspjelo suradnjom s već poznatom rapskom tvrtkom Vilma. Nedugo nakon toga, na prezentaciji projekata proizašlih iz zavičajne nastave po programu udžbenika Moja Rijeka, na sličnu je ideju došla i skupina riječkih osnovnoškolaca. Tako je pokrenuta slatka avantura, puna okusa i mirisa, predvođena vrhunskim stručnjakom koji je već diljem svijeta Kvarner proslavio svojom rapskom tortom. Josip Brna napravio je kolekciju od desetak proizvoda. U retro ambalaži, najslađi suvenir nudi Riječku bombonijeru u tri različita pakiranja - Riječki truffles s trešnjama u tubi, Riječke praline, Riječke lizaljke u dvije varijante s posipima i bez, Riječku čokoladu u dvije varijante Mozaik i Morčić, Riječki čokolatin i Riječku torbicu. Svi ti proizvodi napravljeni su od najkvalitetnijeg kakaovca iz Južne Amerike, odnosno od tamne čokolade. Od samoga početka bilo je iznimno važno da riječka čokolada bude zaista jedinstvena i riječka, zbog čega su neki čokolatini punjeni trešnjama, jer je trešnja riječko voće. Riječki gradonačelnik Vojko Obersnel kaže pak da su ovim proizvodom valorizirane riječka Kad kupimo neki suvenir, obično ga stavimo na policu odakle nas podsjeća na određeno putovanje. No, suština ovoga suvenira je da traje što kraće i da odmah potom kupimo još jedan takav. Riječka čokolada višestruko je koristan suvenir. When we buy a souvenir, we usually put it on a shelf where it reminds us of a certain journey. But the essence of this souvenir is that it lasts for the shortest time possible and inspires us to immediately buy another one. Rijeka chocolate is a useful souvenir in more ways than one. That particular chocolate story inspired the co-operators of Rijeka s Mayor to try to revive production of Rijeka chocolate, which they did successfully in cooperation with the already well-known Rab Company,Vilma. Not long after that, thanks to a presentation of projects arising from homeland classes with books on Moja Rijeka (My Rijeka), a similar idea also came to a group of Rijeka elementary school pupils. This was the start of a sweet adventure, full of flavour and aroma, led by a top expert who has celebrated Kvarner all over the world with his Rab cake. Josip Brna has produced a collection of around ten products. In retro packaging, this sweet souvenir box of Rijeka chocolates is offered in three different assortments- Rijeka truffles with cherries in a tube, Rijeka pralines, and Rijeka lollipops in two versions both with sprinkles and without Rijeka chocolate is produced in two variants the first is Mosaic and Moretto and the second Rijeka pralines and the Rijeka favour box. All these products are made using the finest quality cocoa beans from South America or dark chocolate. Right from the start, it was extremely important that Rijeka chocolate be truly unique and from Rijeka which is why some pralines are filled with cherries as the cherry is a fruit from Rijeka. Rijeka Mayor, povijest i bogata industrijska baština. Kad kupimo neki suvenir, obično ga stavimo na policu odakle nas podsjeća na određeno putovanje. No, suština ovoga suvenira je da traje što kraće i da odmah potom kupimo još jedan takav. Riječka čokolada višestruko je koristan suvenir, a posebno mi je drago što smo ovime suradnju ostvarili s našom domaćom tvrtkom Vilma koja se dokazala i u zemlji i u inozemstvu. Trenutačno me brine trenutak u kojemu predstavljamo Riječku čokoladu, jer podaci govore kako je kakaovac ove godine loše rodio zbog čega prijeti poremećaj na tržištu. Uvijek težimo tome da možemo ponuditi originalne riječke suvenire, a primjer čokolade je izvrstan dokaz revitalizacije originalnog riječkog proizvoda, temeljen na stvarnim povijesnim činjenicama. Rijeka je na putu da napravi kvalitetnu bazu suvenira kojima će moći konkurirati velikim gradovima, kazao je Obersnel. Podsjetimo kako je pogon bivše nekadašnje Riječke tvornice kakaa i čokolade bio smješten u velikoj trokatnoj zgradi podignutoj uz prometnicu koja se u to doba nazivala Via Serpentina, nasuprot ulazu u današnji trgovački centar ZTC. Kako bi kupci lakše upamtili njene proizvode, osmišljene su dvije proizvodne marke - Slon i Jadran. Na omotima se našla otisnuta ilustracija s motivom slona, a ponekad i slonice s tri slonića, što je kupcima trebalo kazati da im u ruke stiže proizvod uistinu posebnog, prekomorskog, egzotičnog porijekla. A tako je i sada s novom Riječkom čokoladom koju možete pronaći na policama nove prodavaonice u Starom gradu, tik do Tarsatičkog principija. Vojko Obersnel says however that this product has added value to Rijeka s history and to its rich industrial heritage. "When we buy a souvenir, we usually put it on a shelf where it reminds us of a certain journey. But the essence of this souvenir is that it lasts for the shortest time possible and inspires us to immediately buy another one. Rijeka chocolate is a useful souvenir in more than one way and I am particularly delighted that we have established a relationship with a local producer, Vilma that has already proven itself both at home and abroad. At the moment I'm worried about when we will present Rijeka chocolate as data indicates that cocoa has had a bad year and as such has created a possible blip on the market. We always strive to offer original Rijeka souvenirs, and chocolate is an excellent testimony to the revitalization of the original Rijeka product based on actual historical facts. Rijeka is on its way to making a high-quality base of souvenirs which will be able to compete with other big cities", Obersnel continued. May we remind you that the plant of the former Rijeka cocoa and chocolate factory was once located in a large three-storey building built along the road, which at that time was known as Via Serpentina, in front of the entrance to today s' ZTC shopping centre. To help customers remember its products more easily, two trademarks have been developed Slon (Elephant) and Jadran (Adriatic). An illustration of an elephant, and sometimes a she-elephant with three baby elephants has been printed onto the wrapping, which tells customers that they are in possession of a really special product, from overseas, of exotic origin. So this new Rijeka chocolate is available on the shelves of a new store in the Old town, close to the Principia at Tarsatica. I kao što ni izumitelji čokolade, pripadnici drevnog plemena Maja, prije godina bez nje nisu mogli zamisliti svoje gozbe i rituale, tako ni mi danas ne možemo zamisliti život bez ove slastice koja nam uvijek iznova povećava razinu sreće. Osim što je delicija, čokolada ima i neka ljekovita svojstva - smanjuje stres, pomaže u sprečavanju srčanih bolesti, jača imunitet, djeluje antidepresivno te na kraju i kao afrodizijak. Od otkrića do danas čokolada nikoga nije ostavila ravnodušnim, pa tako ni one koji su, konzumirajući ovu riječku, u dobrom raspoloženju uronili u pustolovinu čarobnoga svijeta slatkih okusa i mirisa. Zašto? Uvjerite se sami And even as the inventors of chocolate, the ancient Mayas did 2600 years before us we cannot imagine our feasts and rituals without this delicacy that has increased our levels of happiness since time immemorial. Apart from being a delicacy, chocolate also has a number of healing properties it reduces stress and so helps in preventing heart disease, it boosts the immune system, acts as an anti-depressant and finally even acts as an aphrodisiac. Since its discovery until the present time, chocolate has left no one indifferent so those consuming this Rijeka chocolate too can enjoy a feeling of wellbeing and enter the magical world of sweet tastes and smells. Why? Find out by yourself

21 40 41 Piše / Written by: Igor Rivetti Novi grad / New city prevezenih putnika, umirovljen je pod svojim posljednjim imenom - Marina. Danas je Marina čvrsto vezana za riječku rivu i pretvorena je u botel, odnosno brod - hotel. Prvi botel u Hrvatskoj otvorio je svoja velika vrata godine, također uz svečanost i šampanjac kao i na porinuću 78 godina ranije, samo što je ovaj puta princezu zamijenio ministar turizma. Marina je potpuno preuređena te nudi moderan doživljaj broda čija je posada u dva navrata nagrađivana za hrabrost na moru. Na brodu danas nema više starih morskih vukova, a tada potrebnu hrabrost zamijenila je ljubaznost nove, turističke posade. Botel je smješten tek nekoliko desetaka metara od najpoznatije riječke ulice Korzo i na nekoliko minuta hoda od autobusnog i željezničkog kolodvora, tržnice i kazališta. Marina je stoga idealno polazište za istraživanje grada, a nudi 35 novouređenih soba koje su kategorizirane s 3 zvjezdice. Te zvjezdice prilagođene su poslovnim ljudima, obiteljima, ali i turistima koji preferiraju hostele. Svaka soba opremljena je namještajem izrađenim po mjeri, klima uređajem, priključkom za Internet te naravno, pogledom kroz prave brodske prozore. Gostima su na raspolaganju i parking uz brod, bar te nezaobilazni brodski restoran koji nudi morske since that great ceremony, the ship has changed owners and even seas and after so many decades of safe navigation and miles covered, not to mention the millions of transported passengers, and it was finally decommissioned under its most recent name - Marina. Today the Marina is tightly constrained on the Rijeka waterfront and has been transformed into a botel or ship-hotel. The first botel in Croatia opened its huge doors in 2013, once again with a ceremony and champagne like that of its launching 78 years before, only this time the princess was replaced by the Minister for Tourism. The Marina has been completely renovated and offers the modern experience of a ship whose crew has twice been awarded for their courage at sea. Marina has been completely renovated and offers the modern experience of a ship whose crew has twice been awarded for its bravery at sea. The botel is located just a few metres from the most famous Rijeka Street, the Korzo, and just a few minutes walk from the bus and railway stations, the market and the theatre. So the Marina is an ideal starting point for sightseeing the town, offering 35 newly decorated rooms, each categorized with 3 stars. These stars are tailored to businessmen and families, but also to tourists who prefer hostels. Each room Riječki hosteli smještaj za mlade i one koji se tako osjećaju Rijeka hostels - accomodation for young people and for those who feel young Treba li vam povoljni smještaj, Rijeka nudi hostele čija je ponuda raznolika i kvalitetna If you need affordable accommodation, Rijeka offers hostels which offer variety and quality Odavno su iza nas vremena kad su hosteli bili sinonim lošeg i jeftinog smještaja. Broj hostela u cijelom svijetu raste, kao i njihov standard, a potražnja je sve veća. Ista je ostala jedino cijena pa su tako hosteli i dalje znatno jeftiniji od hotela. Hostele najčešće biraju mladi ljudi koji vole upoznavanje i druženje, bitnija im je opuštena atmosfera od komfora te na svojim putovanjima naglasak stavljaju na aktivan odmor, zabavu i provod, a minimalno žele potrošiti na smještaj. Na hostelskoj karti svijeta, Rijeka sa svojom ponudom zauzima značajno mjesto. Botel Marina - prvi botel u Hrvatskoj U veljači godine u Frederikshavnu u Danskoj porinut je brod Kronprinsessan Ingrid. Ime je dobio po svojoj kumi - švedskoj princezi, a prva uloga mu je bila da povezuje luke u Skandinaviji. Gotovo 80 godina prošlo je od velike svečanosti, brod je mijenjao vlasnike, mora, a nakon toliko desetljeća sigurne plovidbe i odrađenih milja te milijuna The days when hostels were a synonym of bad and cheap accommodation are long gone. The number of hostels in the world has grown and at the same time its standard and demand has also grown. The price is the only thing that remains the same, so hostels are still much cheaper than hotels. Hostels are mostly chosen by young people wanting to meet and socialize, it is more important to them to find a relaxed atmosphere than to look for any great comfort and they tend to place more emphasis on active recreation, leisure and entertainment whilst on their travels and they do not want to spend a lot on accommodation. Rijeka s offer has an important position on the hostel world map. Botel Marina - the first botel in Croatia the ship, Kronprinsessan Ingrid was launched In February 1936 in Frederikshavn, Denmark. It was named after its godmother - the Swedish princess, and its first role was to connect the ports in Scandinavia. Almost 80 years have passed plodove. Kućni ljubimci su uz najavu dobrodošli, a botel je pristupačan i za osobe s invaliditetom Marina je tako prošla put od ponosa skandinavske mornarice do ponosa mediteranskog turizma. Kronprinsessan Ingrid je u povijesti spajao kopna, a danas spaja Rijeku s morem uz jedinstven pogled na kopno i more. Omladinski hostel Rijeka Za Hostel Rijeka svi su čuli! HI-Quality certifikat koji ga svrstava među 250 visokokvalitetnih hostela u svijetu. Uz visok standard, njegovi aduti su lokacija i pogled na Kvarnerski zaljev. Smješten je na Pećinama, jednom od najljepših dijelova grada. Otvoren je u impozatnoj građevini iz godine, poznatoj kao Villa Cosulich, u kojoj se ranije nalazio dječji vrtić. U vili na dva kata i potkrovlju može odsjesti 60 osoba. Na prva dva kata smještene su višekrevetne sobe, a svaka ima svoj sanitarni čvor. Za one koji žele privatnost, is equipped with custom-made furniture, air conditioning, an Internet connection, and of course, a view through real ship portholes. Guests have access to a car park next to the ship, the ship's bar and the inevitable restaurant which offers seafood. Pets are welcome with prior notice, and the Botel is accessible for people with disabilities. So the Marina moved from being the pride of the Scandinavian navy to being the pride of Mediterranean tourism. In the past, the Kronprinsessan Ingrid connected mainlands and today it connects Rijeka to the sea with a unique view of the land and sea. Youth hostel Rijeka Everyone has heard of the Rijeka Hostel! HI-Quality certificate which classifies it among the 250 high-quality hostels around the world. Besides its high-quality standard, its advantages are location and a view over the Kvarner Bay. It is

22 42 43 Hostel Carnevale Omladinski hostel Pećine Hostel Kosy Hostel Aston u potkrovlju tzv. Penthouseu, još su tri dvokrevetne sobe. U prizemlju su recepcija, kuhinja i blagovaonica, internet kutak i prostrani dnevni boravak. Hostel je okružen zelenilom, a samo nekoliko desetaka metara od njega su udaljene najljepše riječke plaže. Česti gosti hostela su i sportaši koji nastupaju na riječkim sportskim natjecanjima. Zaposleno je pet djelatnika, koji su svakog trenutka gostima na usluzi. Netipično za hostel u kojem je obavezno tek služenje doručka, u riječkom hostelu gosti na zahtjev mogu dobiti polupansion ili sva tri obroka. Lounge hostel Carnevale Mali hostel Carnevale moderno je uređen i na 300 kvadrata njeguje intimnu i opuštajuću atmosferu, a nalazi se na idealnoj lokaciju u samom centru grada - Korzu. Hostel će biti otvoren cijele godine, ima 6 dvokrevetnih soba, dvije četverokrevetne sobe te dvije spavaonice sa po šest i osam kreveta kao i pet modernih kupaonica. Sve to upotpunjuju mala recepcija i dnevni boravak za druženje i odmor. U hostelu je, osim u ljetnim mjesecima, najzanimljivije za vrijeme Riječkog karnevala po kojem je hostel i dobio ime. Hostel Dharma Hostel Dharma sinonim je za holizam - život posvećen zdravlju, prevenciji, odmaku od stresa i održivom razvoju. Holistička oaza svoja je vrata otvorila u starim kamionskim garažama napuštene tvornice na istočnom ulazu u Rijeku. Osim 48 ručno izrađenih kreveta, Dharma uz standardnu hostelsku ponudu za svoje goste organizira jutarnju jogu, anti-stres tehnike, meditaciju. Ono što je zanimljivo je da hostel nudi isključivo vegeterijansku kuhinju, a alkohol i cigarete nisu dobrodošle u zeleni Dharmin kutak. Hostel Rijeka U samom središtu grada, u najsporijoj riječkoj ulici, Korzu, nalazi se Rijeka. Hostel u svojih osam soba nudi 30 kreveta i najnoviji je riječki turistički objekt koji je zbog svog spremišta za bicikle idelan za sve goste koji u grad dođu na dva kotača bez motora pa je tako Hostel Rijeka već zaokružen na brojnim biciklističkim kartama. Na adresi Korzo 32, u samom središtu grada biciklisti, ali i turisti koji dođu u grad ostalim prijevoznim sredstvima mogu se odmoriti u sobama s dva do deset kreveta. Naravno, u moderno uređenom hostelu svima je na raspolaganju i nezaobilazna prostorija za druženja. situated at Pećine, one of the most beautiful parts of the town. It was opened in an imposing building which dates back to 1898, known as Villa Cosulich, where there was previously a kindergarten. This two storey villa with an attic can accommodate up to 60 people. On the first two floors are rooms with a greater number of beds, each with its own bathroom. For those looking for privacy, in the attic, the so called Penthouse, there are three double-bed rooms. On the ground floor is the reception, kitchen and dining-room, an internet corner and a spacious living room. The Hostel is surrounded by greenery whilst the most beautiful Rijeka beaches are only a few dozen metres away. Frequent guests of this hostel are athletes taking in Rijeka sports competitions. There are five members of staff who are at guests disposal at all times. A typical for a hostel where only the serving of breakfast is mandatory, in Rijeka hostel guests can choose half or full board on request. Lounge hostel Carnevale The small Carnevale hostel is modernly equipped and over its 300 square metres fosters an intimate and relaxing Hostel River Hostel River smješten je u Vodovodnoj ulici, nešto mirnijem dijelu grada, na svega nekoliko minuta hoda od gužve na Korzu. Ono što River izdvaja od ostalih riječkih hostela je prilagođenost potrebama motociklista. River je tako jedini bikerski hostel u gradu u kojem uvijek nekoga možete pronaći za razgovor o vožnji na dva kotača. Hostel ima i garažu za motocikle, a svi koji stignu s kacigom na recepciju dobivaju i 5% popusta na smještaj. Osoblje motela na raspolaganju je 24 sata svim gostima. Hostel Kosy Italija ima Pisu, a Rijeka Kosy. Hostel smješten u staroj gradskoj jezgri, tik uz Kosi toranj tj. zvonik Crkve Marijina uznesenja koji datira još iz 13. stoljeća. Turistička atrakcija tako se nalazi na svega desetak sekundi hoda od hostela Kosy koji odiše ugodnom cosy atmosferom. Dio soba živi s pogledom na Korzo, gradsku žilu kucavicu, dok se nešto dalje pruža prekrasan pogled na nekoć moćno trgovačko sjecište - Mrtvi kanal. Hostel Ana Hostel kratkog imena Ana nudi dugačak popis usluga. Smješten je u centru Rijeke, u luci, u ulici koja Rijeku dijeli od mora - Rivi. Hostel Ana idealan je za turiste koji vole moderno uređene sobe te opuštenu lounge atmosferu. Ta opuštenost lako se može prenijeti i izvan sobe s obzirom da se udaljenost između hostela i brojnih gradskih znamenitosti, ali i restorana i kafići mjeri u koracima. Uz to sve sobe imaju prekrasan pogled na more. Hostel Lavanda Lavanda je smještena u sportskom, zapadnom dijelu grada, nedaleko od Sportskog centra Zamet, poznatog nogometnog stadiona Kantrida, Bazena Kantrida, ali i teniskih terena. Lavanda svojim gostima nudi usluge od običnog prenoćišta u višekrevetnim sobama do klasičnih hotelskih ili pak luksuznih soba i to sve po hostelskim cijenama. Hostel je vrlo blizu izlaza s autoceste, odnosno riječke obilaznice. Hostel City Hostel City moderni je hostel koji nudi smještaj po povoljnim cijenama. Lijepo i ugodno mjesto za boravak, s urbanim, atmosphere, being located on an ideal site in the heart of the town - Korzo. The Hostel is open throughout the year and has 6 double bedrooms, two quadruple bedrooms and two bedrooms with six to eight beds, as well as five modern bathrooms. All this is supplemented with a small reception area and lounge for socializing and relaxing. Apart from the summer months, the most interesting time to visit the hostel is during the Rijeka Carnival after it was named. Dharma hostel Hostel Dharma is a synonym for holism - a life dedicated to health, prevention, and removal from stress and sustainable development. This holistic oasis opened its doors in the old truck garages of an abandoned factory on the eastern entrance to Rijeka. Besides the 48 handcrafted beds, the Dharma along with its standard hostel offer organizes morning yoga, anti-stress techniques and meditation for its guests. What is interesting is that the hostel only offers vegetarian cuisine, whilst alcohol and cigarettes are not welcome in the green Dharma corner. Rijeka hostel In the heart of the city centre, on the slowest Rijeka Street, the Korzo, we can find the Rijeka hostel. In its eight rooms the Hostel offers 30 beds and is the most upto-date Rijeka tourist facility thanks to its perfect bicycle storage facilities which are ideal for all guests coming to the city on two wheels without a motor and as a result the Hostel Rijeka is already on numerous bicycle maps. At Korzo 32, right in the centre, cyclists together with other tourists coming to the city by other transport means can relax in rooms with from two to ten beds. Of course, this modern hostel also offers everyone has an inevitable room forget-together. River hostel The River Hostel is located on Vodovodna Street, in a somewhat quieter part of town, just a few minutes walk from the crowds on the Korzo. What distinguishes the River from the other Rijeka hostels is its suitability to the needs of bikers. So River is the only biker friendly hostel in town where you can always find someone ready for a talk about a twowheel ride. The hostel has a garage for motorcycles, and all those arriving with a helmet in reception will receive a 5%

23 44 Hostel Dharma discount on accommodation. The Hostel staff is available 24 hours a day to all guests. Kosy hostel Italy has Pisa and Rijeka has Kosy. The Hostel is situated in the old town, close to Kosi toranj (the Leaning tower) i.e. the bell tower of the Church of the Assumption, which dates back in the 13th century. This tourist attraction is also only about ten seconds walk from the Kosy hostel that exudes a pleasant "cozy" atmosphere. Part of the rooms enjoys a view over the Korzo, the jugular vein of the city and then a beautiful view extends to the once powerful trading intersection - Dead Channel. Ana hostel A Hostel with a short name Ana offers a long list of services. It is situated in the centre of Rijeka, in the port, in a street which divides Rijeka from the sea - Riva. The Ana Hostel is ideal for tourists who prefer modernly equipped rooms and a relaxed lounge atmosphere. This relaxation can be easily transferred outside the room given the distance between the hostel and the numerous city attractions, restaurants and bars which are measured in steps. Besides all of the aforementioned, all rooms have a beautiful view over the sea. modernim dizajnom tri tematske sobe - ljubičaste, zelene i žute. Hostel je otvoren 24 sata dnevno i idealno je mjesto za opustiti se i upoznati nove prijatelje iz cijeloga svijeta. Hostel Češka beseda Hostel se nalazi u novosagrađenom objektu smještenom u obiteljskom naselju u zapadnom dijelu Rijeke i idealan je za sve koji žele predahnuti od gradske buke. Iz Češke Besede pruža se prekrasan pogled na Kvarnerski zaljev, okružen je zelenilom s dječjim igralištem u blizini i velikim vlastitim parkiralištem. Hostel Češka beseda je tako osobito pogodan za obitelji i organizirane grupe. U blizini se nalazi Islamski kulturni centar, a u sklopu objekta moguće je iznajmiti manju ili veću dvoranu s potrebnom opremom za predavanja ili druga događanja. Hostel nudi dvokrevetne i trokrevetne sobe, a pristup objektu i toalet su prilagođeni osobama s invaliditetom. Više informacija možete dobiti na: You can get more informations on: Lavanda hostel The Lavanda is located in the sporty, western part of the city, near the Zamet Sports Centre, the famous Kantrida football stadium, the Kantrida Swimming Pools and tennis courts. Lavanda offers its guests various services from that of an ordinary inn in multibedded rooms to the classic hotel or luxury rooms and all for hostel prices. The hostel is very close to the highway exit and the Rijeka ring-road. City hostel The City Hostel is a modern hostel offering accommodation at affordable prices. A lovely, comfortable place to stay, with an urban, modern design of three themed rooms - purple, green and yellow. The hostel is open 24 hours a day and is the ideal place to relax and meet new friends from all over the world. Češka beseda hostel The hostel is located in a newly built house located in a family neighbourhood in the western part of Rijeka and is ideal for those looking for a break from the noise. From the Češka Beseda extends a breath-taking view over Kvarner Bay, surrounded by greenery with a children s playground nearby and a large car park. The Češka beseda Hostel is therefore particularly favourable for families and organized groups. Nearby is the Islamic Cultural Centre, and within the building it is possible to rent either a small or larger hall with the necessary equipment for lectures or other events. The Hostel offers double and triple rooms and access to the facility and toilets are suitable for the disabled.

24 46 47 Piše / Written by: Barbara Cakar Novi grad / New city Mobilna aplikacija koja će biti od pomoći biciklistima, kao i tiskana brošura koja opisuje biciklističke staze Rijeke i okolice A mobile application that will be useful for cyclists as well as a printed brochure describing cycle routes of Rijeka and its surroundings Biciklistička transverzala riječkog prstena Transversal cycling of Rijeka and its surroundings Jedna od aktivnosti manjeg intenziteta, korisna za izgradnju mišićnog tonusa cijelog tijela i odlična metoda za smanjenje tjelesne mase, svakako je vožnja biciklom koja u kontinuitetu dovodi do optimalnih zdravstvenih rezultata. S obzirom da je riječ o fizički prilično zahtjevnoj aktivnosti, ona savršeno održava motivaciju, a izvrsna je i za pročišćavanje misli i održavanje koncentracije. One low intensity activity that is useful for building muscle tone in the entire body as well as being a great method for reducing weight is definitely cycling which if practiced constantly leads to optimal health outcomes. Given that this is quite a physically demanding activity, it perfectly maintains motivation and is perfect for purifying thoughts and maintaining concentration. These facts are just the right motivation for numerous recreation enthusiasts to engage in the new adventure called Transversal Cycling of Rijeka and its surroundings. This is the name of the tourist boards of Rijeka' and its surroundings joint project realized together with the Molekula creative agency.

25 48 49 Ove činjenice tek su poticaj brojnim rekreativcima za upuštanje u novu avanturu zvanu Biciklistička transverzala Riječkog prstena. Naziv je to udruženog projekta turističkih zajednica Rijeke i Riječkog prstena i Kreativne agencije Molekula. Pokrenut s ciljem kvalitetnije promocije destinacije Riječkog prstena, ovaj projekt objedinjava postojeće biciklističke staze, ali i novoosmišljenu koja povezuje sve gradove i općine Riječkog prstena, odnosno biciklističku transverzalu. Prvi dio projekta čine dvojezična brošura i karta. One prikazuju transverzalu dugu 63 km koja se proteže kroz 8 gradova i općina riječkog prstena. Počinje u Kastvu, a nastavlja se preko Klane, Viškova, Rijeke, Jelenja, Čavli, Kostrene te završava u Bakru odnosno na Hreljinskoj gradini. Na transverzalu se nadovezuje više od 100 km poveznica kako bi se biciklistima ponudila mogućnost izbora i kreiranja vlastitih ruta, dužih ili kraćih, ovisno o raspoloženju. Uz same staze, u brošuri je prikazano i 68 najvažnijih atrakcija koje se mogu pogledati uz staze, a priložena je i velika karta za lakše snalaženje i planiranje. Ideja o mobilnoj aplikaciji s GPS navigacijom nazvana Bike Rijeka proizašla je kao nastavak projekta pripreme brošure i želje da se dodatno olakša snalaženje biciklistima u prirodi. Aplikacija uključuje 40 postojećih biciklističkih staza, a najveća je pažnja posvećena prikazu staza i navigacija po njima. Staze se mogu birati po težini ili jednostavno prema lokaciji na karti. Navigacija stazom, osim same putanje, prikazuje i statistiku vožnje, vrijeme vožnje, prijeđenu udaljenost i brzinu. Tijekom vožnje, na Google karti prikazane su i atrakcije uz koje se prolazi, moguće je pronaći kontakt informacije o ugostiteljskim objektima, smještaju te ostale pomoćne servise. Istodobno su se razvijale dvije aplikacije, za Android i ios platforme, koje su dostupne u Google Play storeu i u App Store-u.Vožnja biciklom pruža zadovoljstvo mnogima - od rekreativaca i djece do onih koji traže veće izazove u biciklizmu, a ovim projektom unaprijedit će se biciklističko iskustvo Rijeke i Riječkog prstena, ali i promovirati kraj čije se ljepote najneposrednije mogu upoznati upravo na dva kotača. Launched with the aim of offering an increased quality promotion of destinations in Rijeka and its surroundings, this project unites existing cycle routes, with newly created ones that connect all of the towns and municipalities in the surrounding areas of Rijeka i.e. transversal cycling. The first parts of the project are a brochure and map in two languages. They show a 63 km long transversal that goes through 8 towns and municipalities of Rijeka s surroundings. It starts in Kastav, goes through Klana, Viškovo, Rijeka, Jelenje, Čavle, Kostrena and finishes in Bakar i.e. to Hreljin Castle. More than 100 km of connections are linked to the transversal to provide cyclists with the possibility of choosing and creating their own longer or shorter routes, depending on their mood. Besides the trails, the brochure illustrates 68 of the most important attractions that can be seen along the way, and a large map is also enclosed for easier orientation and planning. The idea of the mobile application with GPS navigation called Bike Rijeka arose as a continuation of the project of preparation a brochure and a desire to additionally ease the orientation of cyclists to nature. The application includes 40 existing bike trails, whilst the greatest attention has been given to presentation of trails and navigation along them. Trails can be chosen for their difficulty or simply for their location on the map. Navigation along the trail, besides the path itself, displays the statistics of the ride, riding time, distances covered and speed. During the ride, attractions are also shown on Google maps along the trail you cover and it is possible to find contact information about catering facilities, accommodation and other auxiliary services. At the same time two further applications have been developed for Android and ios platforms, available in the Google Play Store and App Store. Cycling offers pleasure to many - from recreationists and children to those looking for greater challenges in cycling, and this project will not only enhance the cycling experience of Rijeka and its surroundings, but will also promote the area whose beauties can be encountered most directly precisely on two wheels. Biciklistička transverzala Riječkog prstena Rijeka Area Bike Route Kastav, Klana, Viškovo, Rijeka, Jelenje, Čavle, Kostrena, Bakar Prvi dio projekta čine dvojezična brošura i karta. One prikazuju transverzalu dugu 63 km koja se proteže kroz 8 gradova i općina riječkog prstena. Počinje u Kastvu, a nastavlja se preko Klane, Viškova, Rijeke, Jelenja, Čavli, Kostrene te završava u Bakru odnosno na Hreljinskoj gradini. Na transverzalu se nadovezuje više od 100 km poveznica... The first parts of the project are a brochure and map in two languages. They show a 63 km long transversal that goes through 8 towns and municipalities of Rijeka s surroundings. It starts in Kastav, goes through Klana, Viškovo, Rijeka, Jelenje, Čavle, Kostrena and finishes in Bakar i.e. to Hreljin Castle. More than 100 km of connections...

26 50 51 Piše / Written by: Larry Ambrozich Novi grad / New city Mnoge plivačke reprezentacije svoje sportske pripreme provode u Rijeci Many national swimming teams carry out their sports preparation in Rijeka Rijeku vole plivači Swimmers love Rijeka sjajem. I to u godini obilježavanja 100. godišnjice postojanja Sportskog društva Primorje koje okuplja vodene klubove pod jednu kapu. Bio je to tada i prvi objekt koji je nakon tri desetljeća otvoren u Rijeci. Uronjen u ogromne stijene, kompleks Bazena Kantrida svoj pogled razvija prema najljepšim hrvatskim otocima, Cresu, Lošinju i Krku. Tik do otoka, povijest plivanja na Kantridi ponosno bilježi 1400 metara visoka planina Učka. Dobar glas daleko se čuje... Po otvaranju Bazena Kantrida, započelo se s ponudom najma sportskih površina koje nudi navedeni kompleks. Kvalitetniji iskorak dogodio se nakon prosinca godine kad je održano Europsko prvenstvo u kratkim bazenima. Velik ispit za cijeli grad, Rijeka i bazeni su uspješno položili. Organizacija i samo 12. Europsko prvenstvo ocijenjeni su najvišom mogućom ocjenom. Velikim olimpijskim bazenom plivali su natjecatelji i natjecateljice iz 40 zemalja. Bio sam na puno bazena, ali ovaj je najljepši. Položaj je poseban, tik uz more - Oussama Mellouli, plivač, zlato/maraton 10 km, bronca/1500 m OI London I have been to many swimming-pools, but this is the most beautiful one. Its position is so particular, close to the sea - Oussama Mellouli, with a gold medal in the 10 km marathon and a bronze medal in the 1500 m race at the 2012 Olympics in London facility in the region, and probably one of the most beautiful in Europe was opened. The extremely demanding facility, after 2 years of construction, shone in its full splendour. It was also a memorable year as the Primorje Sport Association that brings together water sport clubs under a single umbrella. was celebrating its centenary. Moreover, it was also the first facility to be opened in Rijeka in three decades. Immersed within huge rocks, the Kantrida Swimming Pool Complex extends its view towards the most beautiful Croatian islands of Cres, Lošinj and Krk. Close to the island, the history of swimming on Kantrida proudly registers the 1,400 metre high Učka Mountain. Good news travels fast... After its opening, the Kantrida Swimming Pool Complex started to offer the rental of sporting areas within the aforementioned complex. An even more prestigious breakthrough took place after December 2008 when the European Short Course Swimming Championship took place there. A huge test for the whole town, which Rijeka and its swimming-pools successfully passed. Both the organization and the 12th European Championship were rated with the highest possible grade. The Olympic-size swimming pool was used for male and female swimming competitors from 40 countries. The organisation of additional national and international sporting events and a continuous offer by means of direct communication with Western European sporting clubs and national teams as well as with other parts of the world, make the Kantrida Swimming Pool Complex an even more interesting facility for organizing training camps. Bazeni Kantrida, mjesto susreta tisuće sportaša svakog dana. Od onih najmlađih koji svoje prve zaveslaje čine na posebno prilagođenom plivalištu, studenata, umirovljenika, rekreativaca, pa sve do profesionalnih plivača, vaterpolista, sinkro plivačica i skakača u vodu, Bazeni Kantrida dom su sve brojnijoj vojsci zaljubljenika u jedan od zasigurno najljepših bazenskih kompleksa u Europi. Izuzev domaćih plivača, Bazene Kantrida prepoznale su mnoge svjetske reprezentacije i tako riječku vodenu ljepoticu pretvorile u traženu robu uoči svakog velikog međunarodnog natjecanja. Danas se, gotovo 6 godina od otvaranja, s ponosom može reći da Rijeka ima sve razvijeniji plivački turizam. Ljubav na prvi pogled Današnji Bazeni Kantrida sagrađeni su na temeljima starog bazena iz godine. Kako je rastao interes za vodenim sportovima, tako se rađala i potreba za izgradnjom kompleksa koji će zadovoljiti sve snažniju koloniju plivača, vaterpolista, rekreativaca. Godina bila je prekretnica za riječki plivački sport. Generacije sportaša i građana pamtit će 24. srpnja, dan kad je otvoren sigurno najljepši sportski objekt u regiji, a vjerojatno i jedan od najljepših u Europi. Iznimno zahtjevan objekt, nakon 2 godine gradnje, zasjao je svojim punim The Kantrida Swimming Pool Complex is a meeting place for thousands of sportsmen every day. From the youngsters taking their first strokes in a specially adapted indoor swimming pool, to students, pensioners, recreationists, and then professional swimmers, water polo players, female synchronized swimmers and divers, the Kantrida Swimming Pool Complex is home to an ever increasing army of admirers in certainly one of the most beautiful pool complexes in Europe. Besides local swimmers, the Kantrida Swimming Pool Complex has been recognized by many international teams and so has turned this "Rijeka water beauty" into a desirable "commodity" on the eve of every major international competition. Today, almost 6 years since its opening, it can proudly be said that Rijeka has one of the most developed forms of swimming tourism. Love at first sight Today s Kantrida Swimming Pool Complex was built on the foundations of the old swimming-pool which dated back to As the interest for water sports was growing, a need to build a complex that would meet the demands of a growing colony of swimmers, water-polo players and recreationists was engendered. The year 2008 was a turning point for swimming in Rijeka. Generations of athletes and citizens will remember that particular July 24, the day when surely the most beautiful sports

27 52 53 Stadion Kantrida. Od Bazena Kantrida do prve zračne luke, one riječke na otoku Krku, svega je 20-tak minuta vožnje. Zračna luka Rijeka danas je povezana s gotovo svim europskim metropolama. Izuzev snažnog vizualnog dojma, bazeni nude sve što jedan sportaš treba imati, čak i više od toga. Na raspolaganju su pet plivališta, dva olimpijska, 25 metarski bazen, dječji bazen i bazen za skokove u vodu, prostrane svlačionice, dva fitness prostora, wellness, restoran, caffe barovi, prodavaonica, konferencijska dvorana, poslovni prostori za klubove i upravu objekta, garaža na četiri nivoa, šetnica te 250 metara duga pješčana plaža na kojoj vijori Plava zastava. Organiziranje daljnjih nacionalnih i međunarodnih sportskih manifestacija te kontinuirana ponuda direktnom komunikacijom sa sportskim klubovima i reprezentacijama zapadne Europe ali i drugih dijelova svijeta, čine Bazene Kantrida sve zanimljivijim objektom za organizaciju trening-kampova. Bazeni Kantrida smješteni su na zapadnoj strani grada Rijeke. Prvi susjedi bazenima su jedinstvena Atletska dvorana i U Rijeci mi je prekrasno, sve mi se jako sviđa, bazeni su odlični - Lotte Friis, dvostruka svjetska pobjednica iz i bronca OI Peking I feel so good in Rijeka, and love everything, the swimming-pools are excellent - Lotte Friis, double world champion from 2009 and 2011, and bronze medal winner at the 2008 Olympics in Peking. The Kantrida Swimming Pool Complex is located on the western side of the city of Rijeka. The nearest neighbours to the swimming-pools are the unique Athletics Hall and the Kantrida Stadium. The Kantrida Swimming Pool Complex is not far from the nearest airport, on the island of Krk, which is just 20 minutes away by car. Today, Rijeka s Airport is connected with almost every European metropolis. Besides a strong visual impression, the swimming pools offer everything an athlete might require and even more. There are five swimming pools of which two are Olympic size, a 25 metre swimming pool, a children's pool and a diving pool, there are spacious changing rooms, two fitness areas, a spa, a restaurant, coffee bars, a shop, a conference hall, business premises for clubs and associations, a multi-storey garage over four levels, the promenade and a 250 metre long sandy beach which has been awarded the Blue Flag. Over the past 6 years, numerous world national teams have prepared in Rijeka before going on to take part in the most important international competitions. So the Austrian national swimming team as well as swimmers from the Faroe Islands, Japan and Spain have all used the Kantrida Swimming Pool Complex facilities for training. Teams from Germany, the Republic of South Africa, Norway and Latvia also decided to spend part of the summer months in the Kantrida Swimming Pool Complex where they trained and had their camps. The Danish Olympic team made up of of ten sportsmen, among which female swimmer Lotte Friis, who was double world champion in 2009 and 2011 and bronze medallist at the Olympic Games 2009 also trained here. Tunisian swimmer Oussama Mellouli trained in the Kantrida Swimming Pool Complex before going to the 2012 Olympic Games in London where he won an Olympic gold medal in 10 km swimming marathon discipline, he won an Olympic bronze medal in 1500 m freestyle race and U proteklih 6 godina brojne su se svjetske reprezentacije pripremale u Rijeci za odlazak na najveća međunarodna natjecanja. Tako se na Bazenima Kantrida pripremala ekipa sinkroniziranog plivanja austrijske plivačke reprezentacije, kao i plivači s Farskih otoka, Japana, Španjolske. Timovi iz Njemačke, Južnoafričke republike, Norveške, Latvije odlučili su dio ljetnih mjeseci provesti na Bazenima Kantrida gdje su odradili treninge i imati svoje kampove. Na Bazenima Kantrida trenirala je i desetočlana danska olimpijska reprezentacija među kojima i plivačica Lotte Friis, dvostruka svjetska pobjednica iz i godine te osvajačica brončane medalje na Olimpijskim igrama godine. Tuniski plivač Oussama Mellouli trenirao je na Bazenima Kantrida pred odlazak na Olimpijske igre u London gdje je osvojio zlatnu olimpijsku medalju u disciplini plivačkog maratona na 10 km, osvojio brončanu olimpijsku medalju u plivačkoj utrci na 1500 m slobodno te postao prvi plivač s medaljama na Igrama u bazenu i otvorenim vodama u olimpijskoj povijesti. Cameron van den Burgh, prvi svjetski rekorder i olimpijski pobjednik iz Afrike, rekorder na 100 m prsno, također je svoju formu brusio na Bazenima Kantrida. Nedavno je najtrofejniji vaterpolski trener na svijetu Ratko Rudić u Rijeku doveo reprezentaciju Brazila kojoj je na čelu. U riječkoj vodi užurbano gradi ekipu koja će na Olimpijskim igrama dostojno braniti boje domaćina. Kompleks je zaista fantastičan. Izbor Rijeke kao baze za pripreme uoči nastupa na Olimpijskim igrama u Londonu pokazuje se odličnim - Paulus Wildeboe, izbornik danske reprezentacije This Complex is really fantastic. Selecting Rijeka as a base for preparations before the Olympics in London was an excellent choice - Paulus Wildeboe, selector of the Danish National Team became the first swimmer with Olympic medals in both a pool and in open waters in the Olympic history. Cameron van den Burgh, the first world record holder and Olympic champion from Africa, in the 100 m breaststroke also honed his form in the Kantrida Swimming Pool Complex. Recently, the most successful water polo coach in the world, Ratko Rudić, brought the Brazil national team which he trains to Rijeka. Here he is in overdrive building a team that will worthily defend the colours of the host country at the Olympics in 2016.

28 54 55 Piše / Written by: Velid Đekić Tako je nekada bilo / Once upon a time U čast ocu hrvatske opere, Riječaninu Ivanu Zajcu, njegovi sugrađani redovito priređuju glazbenu manifestaciju Zajčevi dani In honour of Ivan Zajc a former Rijeka inhabitant and the father of Croatian opera, fellow-townsmen regularly organize a music event known as Zajčevi dani (Zajc Days) Najomiljeniji operni majstor The most favourite opera master Vole li ga gradski golubovi zato što imaju skrivene glazbene sklonosti ili im je samo neodoljivo simpatičan taj nepomični gospodin u Kazališnom parku s čijim se šeširom mogu tako lijepo družiti, pitanje je bez konačnog odgovora. S Riječanima je drukčije. Njihova naklonost elegantnom gospodinu ne zna za upitnike te vrste. Do the city pigeons love him because they have hidden musical talents or is that immovable gentleman standing in the Theatre Park just irresistibly likeable to them, with whose hat they can hang around so nicely, is a question without a final answer. With Rijeka inhabitants it is different. Their sympathy to that elegant gentleman does not know about this type of question mark.

29 56 57 Vlastitu operu Amelia postavio je na pozornicu godine, ušavši njome u gradsku kulturnu povijest. Nakon praizvedbe, sugrađani su oduševljeno otpratili Zajca do njegova stana s upaljenim bakljama, te mu darovali dirigentski štapić optočen zlatom. In 1860 he put his own opera Amelia onto the stage and with it entered the town s cultural history. After the premiere, the local townspeople enthusiastically escorted Zajc to his apartment with lighted torches, and gave him a conductor s baton mounted in gold. Studij glazbe odveo ga je podalje od rodnog grada, na konzervatorij u Milano. Za diplomski rad skladao je operu u tri čina La Tirolese, te na njenoj praizvedbi prvi put dirigirao opernim ansamblom. Vidjevši od kakvog je kvalitetna glazbenog štofa skrojen riječki student, ponudili su mu dirigentsko mjesto u glasovitoj opernoj kući Scala, ali se on, zbog smrti oba roditelja, odlučio vratiti u Rijeku da bi skrbio o mlađoj sestri Albini. U Rijeci postaje ravnatelj i koncertni majstor kazališnog orkestra. Vlastitu operu Amelia postavio je na pozornicu godine, ušavši njome u gradsku kulturnu povijest. Bila je to prva opera s potpisom riječkog autora. Nakon praizvedbe, sugrađani su oduševljeno otpratili Zajca do njegova stana s upaljenim bakljama, te mu darovali dirigentski štapić optočen zlatom. during the interval of a drama performance piece. He sat at the piano and played in such a way that his fellowtownsmen enthusiastically carried him along the hall at the end of the performance. He obviously had enough stimulation from his environment, and wrote his first music piece while still in high school. It was the Overture in E-flat major for piano. The study of music took Zajc away from his hometown in 1850, to the conservatory in Milan. For his graduation thesis he composed an opera in three acts La Tirolese, and at its premiere he conducted the opera ensemble for the first time. When they saw the quality of this Rijeka student, they offered them a place as conductor in the famous La Scala opera house, but Zajc decided to go back to Rijeka to take care of his younger sister Albina due to the death of both his parents. In Rijeka he became a director and concert master of the theatre orchestra. In 1860 he put his own opera Amelia onto the stage and with it entered the town s cultural history. This was the first opera endorsed by the Rijeka author. After the premiere, the local townspeople enthusiastically escorted Zajc to his apartment with lighted torches, and gave him a conductor s baton mounted in gold. Although he had enough favour from his fellow-townsmen, Zajc decided to extend his musical perspective with new experiences that took him from Rijeka to Vienna. There he worked for several years as a professor and composer. After receiving a call from Zagreb when Ivan pl. Zajc jedan je od njihovih omiljenih sugrađana, a obostrane simpatije sežu u dane mnogo prije negoli se pojavila Zajčeva skulptura u parku ispred gradskoga Talijina hrama. Spomenik Ivanu pl. Zajcu podsjeća na riječke dane skladatelja čije ime danas nosi teatar u koji je usmjerio pogled. Činjenica da Zajc nije radio u tom teatru, već je glazbeno djelovanje vezao uz prethodno gradsko kazalište, Teatar Adamić, ne mijenja smisao priče. Ivan Zajc rodio se u Rijeci godine u obitelji čeških roditelja čiji se skromni dom nalazio u današnjoj ulici Matije Gupca. Slušajući zvukove što ih je, vježbajući violinu, proizvodio njegov otac Johann, mališan je od najranijih dana počeo pokazivati zanimanje za glazbu. Kad ga je otac odlučio osobno upoznati sa zvučnim čarolijama koje može darovati instrument u pravim rukama, potom i uz pomoć mjesnog učitelja, bio je to pun pogodak. S violinom u ruci zablistao je na koncertu što ga je priredila Glazbena škola koju je pohađao. Nije to bila bilo kakva obrazovna ustanova riječka Glazbena škola, osnovana krenula je radom kao prva ustanova te vrste u Hrvatskoj. Nadaren i vrijedan dječak brzo je pozvan da nastupi u Teatru, u pauzi izvedbe jednoga dramskog komada. Sjeo je za glasovir i zasvirao tako da su ga sugrađani na kraju nastupa oduševljeno nosili dvoranom. Poticaja iz okruženja očito nije manjkalo, pa je prvo glazbeno djelo Zajc napisao već kao srednjoškolac. Bila je to Uvertira u E-duru za glasovir. Ivan pl. Zajc is one of their favourite fellow-townsmen, and mutual sympathies date back to days long before the Zajc sculpture in the park in front of the town's Thalia temple appeared. The monument to Ivan pl. Zajc is a reminder of the days the composer lived in Rijeka and whose name even today brings the theatre in which he oriented his expression alive. The fact that Zajc didn t work in that particular theatre but linked his musical activities to the previous city theatre, the Adamić Theatre, does not change the sense of this story. Ivan Zajc was born in Rijeka in 1832, to a family of Czech parents, whose modest home was in today s Matije Gupca Street. Listening to the sounds produced by his father, Johann when practicing the violin, the little boy from the earliest days began to show an interest in music. It was his father s decision to personally acquaint him with the magical sounds that can only be produced by an instrument in the right hands and later with the help of a local teacher, success was guaranteed. With a violin in his hand he shone at the concert organized in 1839 by the Music school he attended. It was not any kind of educational institution - the Rijeka Music School, founded in 1820 began working as the first institution of its kind in Croatia. A talented and diligent boy, hewas soon invited to perform in the Theatre,

30 58 59 Vine bar Zajc Vino je poezija u boci rekao je škotski književnik Robert Louis Stevenson. Mnoge su mudre izreke i aforizmi posvećeni vinu, poeziji, prijateljstvu i ljubavi. Baš se takvo pozitivno okruženje i dobre vibracije koje spajaju ova četiri pojma mogu doživjeti u Wine baru Kod Zajca. Ugodna atmosfera, glazbena događanja, opušteno društvo, duhoviti konobari i naravno najbolja hrvatska i strana vina. Wine bar se nalazi u Verdijevoj ulici, kod riječkog kazališta Ivana plemenitog Zajca i u proteklih šest mjeseci koliko je prošlo od otvorenja, postao je omiljeno okupljalište ljudi koji vole uživati u dobrom vinu, glazbi i društvu. Wine bar otvorili su uspješni riječki ugostitelji Darijo Andrić i Dario Sobol, a u ponudi imaju stotinu etiketa vina koja se toče i na čaše. Tako u Wine baru možete svim čulima uživati i proputovati od Istre, Kvarnera, Dalmacije, središnje Hrvatske do Podunavlja, a sve to upotpuniti finim sirom i maslinama. Wine bar radi tijekom cijelog dana tako da osim u večernjim degustacijama vina, možete guštati i na sunčanoj terasi u odličnoj Illy kavi, a za one malo konkretnije goste tu je i izbor najboljih konjaka. Zajc Wine Bar Wine is poetry in a bottle the Scottish writer, Robert Louis Stevenson said. Many wise sayings and aphorisms are dedicated to wine, poetry, friendship and love. Precisely such a positive environment and good vibration connecting these four terms can be experienced at the "At Zajc" Wine Bar. A pleasant atmosphere, musical events, relaxing company, witty waiters and of course the best Croatian and foreign wines. The wine Bar is located in Verdieva Street, near Rijeka's Ivan pl. Zajc Theatre and in the last six months since its opening, has become a favourite gathering place for those who like to enjoy good wine, music and company. The Wine Bar was opened by successful Rijeka caterers Darijo Andrić and Dario Sobol, and their offer includes hundreds of wine labels which can also be ordered by the glass. In this way you can enjoy some of the world s finest wines with all your senses and travel through Istria, Kvarner, Dalmatia, central Croatia down to the Danube region, and complement it all with fine cheese and olives at the Wine Bar. The wine bar is open throughout the day so in addition to evening wine tastings, you can enjoy the sunny terrace with great Illy coffee, and for the more "demanding" guests, there is also a selection of the finest cognacs. Premda mu naklonosti sugrađana nije manjkalo, Zajc je odlučio proširiti osobne glazbene vidike novim iskustvima, što ga je iz Rijeke odvelo u Beč. U njemu je kao profesor i skladatelj radio nekoliko godina. Dobivši poziv iz Zagreba, iz kojeg mu je skupina domoljuba poručila kako je mnogo potrebniji domovini nego Beču, preselio je u Zagreb. I smjesta se, žestokim ritmom, posvetio poslu. U novom mjestu stanovanja organizirao je prvi profesionalni operni ansambl, uporedo napisao Mislava, svoju prvu operu na hrvatskom jeziku. Uslijedile su opere Ban Leget i Nikola Šubić Zrinski. U njima nije skrivao glazbene korijene koji su govorili da mu je uzorom talijanska opera iz Verdijeva vremena. Zajc je sljedeća četiri desetljeća, od do godine zavladao hrvatskom glazbom zbog čega povjesničari glazbe to razdoblje nazivaju Zajčevim dobom. Njegov potpis nosilo je oko 1200 djela, uključujući 26 opereta, scensku glazbu, oratorije, kantate te orkestralna, komorna i vokalna ostvarenja. Zasebno mjesto u tom opusu pripada 19 opera. Djelo o junaku Zrinskom koji se istaknuo u otporu turskoj opsadi Sigeta, dovršeno je godine te zbog odlično prihvaćene glazbene partiture i nacionalno uzvišeno obojenog libreta postalo najpopularnijom hrvatskom operom. Bio je to razlog više da se Zajca nazove ocem hrvatske opere. Ivan pl. Zajc preminuo je godine. Njemu u čast u Rijeci se redovito priređuje glazbena manifestacija Zajčevi dani koja se ove godine organizira u povodu stote obljetnice umjetnikove smrti. Možda krilata stvorenja s oboda Zajčeva šešira u Kazališnom parku o tomu ne vode računa, ali Riječani da. a group of patriots told him that his homeland needed him more than Vienna, he moved to Zagreb in Once there, he immediately dedicated himself to work in a heavy rhythm. In his new place of living he organized the first professional opera ensemble and at the same time wrote Mislav, his first opera in the Croatian language. Then followed operas Ban Leget and Nikola Šubić Zrinski. In them he didn t even try to hide his musical roots which showed his model as being Italian opera from the times of Verdi. Over the next four decades, from 1870 to 1914, Zajc reigned over Croatian music and for this reason music historians call the period the Zajc era. He endorsed around 1200 works including 26 operettas, stage music, oratorios, cantatas and orchestral, chamber and vocal works. A particular place in that oeuvre is reserved for his 19 operas. His work about the Zrinski hero who distinguished himself by offering resistance to the Ottoman siege of Siget was finished in 1876 and, thanks to a very well accepted music score and nationally inspirational libretto - became the most popular Croatian opera. This was just another reason to call Zajc the father of Croatian opera. Ivan pl. Zajc died in In his honour the musical event, Zajc Days, is regularly organized in Rijeka and this year is particularly special in honour of the centenary of this artist s death. Perhaps the winged creatures from the rim of Zajc's hat in the Theatre Park do not care much about it, but the citizens of Rijeka certainly do.

31 60 61 Piše / Written by: Tina Hervatin Sat vremena od Rijeke / Just an hour from Rijeka Na brege je zrasal, z bršjanon obrasal, moj Kastav.... Ovim stihovima započinje jedna od najpoznatijih pjesama posvećenih Kastvu, romantičnom pitoresknom gradiću smještenom na 365 metara visokom brijegu ponad Kvarnera. Izdignut iznad gradske vreve, na desetak kilometara od Rijeke, Kastav je tijekom dugih stoljeća uspio sačuvati svoju bogatu povijest, kulturu i tradiciju, vrijedne arhitektonske spomenike te netaknutu prirodu. Brojni kastavski vidikovci pružaju nezaboravan pogled na gotovo cijeli Kvarnerski zaljev, a poseban je doživljaj noću s visoka promatrati turističku divu Opatiju i susjedna obalna mjesta koja se, kao dragulji ogrlice, bljeskaju u moru. Kastav je danas omiljena destinacija mnogih posjetitelja koje privlači šarmom starog gradića, izvrsnim restoranima i bistroima, mnogobrojnim umjetničkim galerijama, šetnicama kroz kastavsku šumu, bogatom kulturno-povijesnom baštinom, ali i mnoštvom zanimljivih priredbi i događanja. Raised on the hill, overgrown with ivy, my Kastav.... One of the most famous poems dedicated to Kastav begins with these verses, a romantic picturesque small town situated 365 metres upon a hill at overlooking the Kvarner. High above the city crowds, at around ten kilometres from Rijeka, Kastav has managed to preserve its rich history, culture and tradition, valuable architectural monuments and untouched nature over many centuries. Numerous lookout posts in Kastav provide a spectacular view over almost the entire Kvarner bay, whilst an extraordinary experience is observing the tourist diva, Opatija and the adjacent coastal villages which, like the jewels of a necklace, flash in the sea. Today Kastav is the favourite destination of many visitors attracted by the charm of this small old town, with its excellent restaurants and bistros, numerous art galleries, footpaths through the Kastav forest, its rich cultural and historical heritage, and also its many interesting events and happenings. Na brege je zrasal, z bršjanon obrasal, moj Kastav... Raised on the hill, overgrown with ivy, my Kastav...

32 62 63 O veličini i značaju Kastva ranijih stoljeća danas svjedoči stara gradska jezgra opasana srednjovjekovnim gradskim zidom s devet kula pa će ljubitelji povijesti i arhitekture zasigurno uživati u šetnji uz stari gradski zid, otkrivajući među drevnim zidinama i uskim uličicama tragove prohujalih vremena. U grad se ulazi kroz Volticu, stara gradska vrata izgrađena godine, koja su se nekad zatvarala po zalasku sunca, a otvarala pojavom prvih jutarnjih sunčanih zraka. The old city core encircled by a medieval wall with nine towers is testament to the size and importance of Kastav in earlier centuries so history and architecture lovers will certainly enjoy walking along the old city wall, discovering traces of bygone times among the ancient walls and small narrow streets. The town is entered through the Voltica, the old town gate built in 1731 which used to be closed at sunset and opened with the sun s first morning rays. Gradom dominira zvonik crkve svete Jelene Križarice, zaštitnice grada Kastva. Pogled koji se pred crkvom pruža na cijeli Kvarnerski zaljev i planinu Učku nikoga ne ostavlja ravnodušnim, što je sigurno jedan od razloga zbog kojeg mnogi mladenci upravo ovu crkvu izabiru kao mjesto davanja bračnih zavjeta. Srce Kastva je Lokvina, glavni gradski trg, koji je dobio ime po lokvi u kojoj se skupljala kišnica za potrebe grada. U toj su lokvi Kastavci godine utopili kapetana Morellija koji im je nametao više poreza nego je Statutom grada bilo propisano. O tomu događaju i o slozi Kastavaca koji nisu htjeli odati svoje sugrađane već su preuzeli kolektivnu krivnju za taj čin svjedoči i natpis na šterni (cisterni za vodu) koja se nalazi na trgu, a na kojoj piše Si smo ga! (bio je to odgovor svih građana kada su ih vladajući upitali tko je ubio Morellija). Jedno od nezaobilaznih mjesta u šetnji Kastvom je i Crekvina (ili na čakavskom, velika crkva). Riječ je o ostacima velikog zdanja crkve Marijina Uznesenja koju su u 18. stoljeću gradili isusovci, no još uvijek nije pouzdano utvrđeno je li ona ikad dovršena. Legenda kaže da je rušenje crkve uzrokovala jedna udovica, majka četvero djece, koju gospodari nisu htjeli poštedjeti tlake The town is dominated by the tower of the church of St. Helen the Crusader, the patron saint of Kastav. The view that extends over the whole Kvarner Bay and the Učka Mountain in front of the church leaves nobody indifferent, and is certainly one of the reasons why many newlyweds choose precisely this church as the place to make their wedding vows. The heart of Kastav is Lokvina, the main town square which is named after a pond where rainwater was once collected for the needs of the town. In 1666 Kastav inhabitants drowned captain Morelli in that pond for having imposed higher taxes on them than the town Statute prescribed. With regard to that event and the harmony of Kastav inhabitants who refused to reveal the names of their fellow citizens taking collective blame for the act as can be seen from an inscription on the well (water tank) located in the square, on which we can read "We all did it! (this was the answer given by all the citizens when asked by the reigning monarch who killed Morelli). One site which should not be missed when walking around Kastav is Crekvina (which in the Chakavian dialect means a large church). Here we can find the remains of the large building of the church of the Assumption of Mary, which was constructed by the Jesuits in the 18th century, although it is not yet reliably determined whether it was ever completed. Legend has it that the destruction of the church was caused by a widow; the mother of four children who the lords did not want to spare from the corvée (forced labour obligations on the feudal estate). Allegedly the church collapsed immediately following construction due to the widow's curse and even today only the north wall and sanctuary remain, making this an ideal natural backdrop to the numerous cultural events that take place during the summer months in this region. In Kastav One of the largest and the best preserved Croatian urban lodges can be seen in Kastav. Built in 1571, the building was once a place where sessions of the Council were held and when Od kvalitetnih scenskih i glazbenih uprizorenja do pučkih veselica i karnevalskih fešti, od rekreacije u prirodi do obilaska muzeja i raznih kulturnih znamenitosti - Kastav nudi sve! From the high quality theatrical and musical performances to the folk festivals and carnival festivities, from recreation in the heart of nature to a museum visit and a variety of other cultural attractions - Kastav offers it all! (prisilne radne obveze na feudalnom imanju). Navodno je crkvu, odmah po dovršetku izgradnje, srušilo udovičino prokletstvo te su do danas ostali sačuvani samo sjeverni zid i svetište, koji čine idealnu prirodnu kulisu mnogobrojnim kulturnim događanjima koja se tijekom ljetnih mjeseci na tom prostoru odvijaju. U Kastvu možete vidjeti i jednu od najvećih i najočuvanijih hrvatskih gradskih loža. Građevina je sagrađena godine, u njoj je nekad zasijedalo vijeće, a po potrebi se koristila i kao sudnica u kojoj se sudilo onima koji su se ogriješili o Zakon grada Kastva. Taj je zakon, stoljetno običajno pravo Kastavaca, napisan još godine glagoljskim pismom i narodnim jezikom pa i danas predstavlja dragocjen izvor proučavanja brojnim znanstvenicima. Ljubitelji povijesti mnoštvo zanimljivosti pronaći će i u Muzejskoj zbirki Kastavštine u kojoj se, uz bogatu etnografsku zbirku, mogu vidjeti i vrijedni nalazi iz ilirske nekropole koja datira iz razdoblja između VI i II. st. pr. n. e., a pronađena je u obližnjoj kraškoj vrtači. Kastav je u 19. stoljeću bio centar preporodno-prosvjetiteljskih aktivnosti pa ne čudi što je upravo u ovom gradiću osnovana Čitalnica - prva hrvatska čitaonica u Istri. U Kastvu su djelovali mnogi veliki umjetnici, a na njih podsjeća Aleja velikana smještena na samom ulazu u grad. Jedan od njih je i Vladimir Nazor, istaknuti hrvatski književnik, koji je u Kastvu od do bio ravnatelj Učiteljske škole. Posebno mjesto u kastavskoj povijesti zauzima Ivan Matetić Ronjgov, muzikolog i skladatelj, koji je postavio teorijske temelje tzv. istarske ljestvice, a upravo njegovom zaslugom sačuvani su i zabilježeni brojni narodni napjevi Istre, Primorja i sjevernojadranskih otoka. necessary it was used as a courthouse where those who had violated the Act of the town were prosecuted. That Act, the centennial common law of Kastav inhabitants, drawn up in 1400 using Glagolitic script and in popular language even today represents a valuable research resource for numerous scientists. History lovers will find a multitude of curiosities in the Kastav region s Museum collections where, together with a rich ethnographic collection, valuable findings from the Illyrian necropolis dating back to the period between the 6th and 2nd century before Christ can also be seen, found in a nearby karst sinkhole. In the 19th century Kastav was a revival and enlightenment activity centre, so it is not surprising that in 1866 precisely in this town, the so called Čitalnica - the first Croatian reading room in Istria was established. Many great artists have worked In Kastav, and a reminder of them can be seen in the Alley dedicated to some of the most important inhabitants situated right at the entrance to the town. One of them is Vladimir Nazor, a prominent Croatian writer, who was director of the Teaching School in Kastav from 1908 to A particular place in the history of Kastav is held by Ivan Matetić Ronjgov, a musicologist and composer, who laid the theoretical foundations of the so called Istrian scale, and it is thanks to him that numerous folk melodies from Istria, the Littoral and the northern Adriatic islands have been preserved and recorded. The Kastav area is well known for its old crafts, so in 1855 the Delavska škola (Crafts school) was opened there, one of the first in the region, where a variety of craft skills were acquired by students from the Kastav area, Istria, the Littoral and Gorski Kotar.

33 64 65 Kastavština je poznata po starim zanatima, a godine otvorena je u Kastvu Delavska škola, kao jedna od prvih u regiji, u kojoj su raznovrsna zanatska umijeća stjecali učenici s područja Kastavštine, Istre, Primorja i Gorskog kotara. Danas, u eri moderne tehnologije, neki od tih zanata izumiru, no kako se ne bi izgubio trag bogate zanatske tradicije u Kastvu je otvoren niz malih zavičajnih zbirki posvećenih upravo starim zanatima. U Vikotovoj bačvariji može se vidjeti kako su se nekad izrađivale bačve i bačvarski proizvodi, ali i kušati kastavska vina i rakije. Osojnakova kotlarija prikazuje radove posljednjeg kastavskog majstora kotlara, Milka Osojnaka, koji je izrađivao kotlarske proizvode od bakra - razne kolutove za kuhanje rakije, posuđe za poljoprivredu te predmete za domaćinstvo. Kotlarija je sačuvana u netaknutom stanju sa starim mijehom, ognjištem i nakovnjem te zbirkom alata. U spomen svim kastavskim majstorima pekarima otvorena je Idičina peknjica, gdje možete probati pravi domaći kruh pečen u najstarijoj krušnoj peći na drva u Kastvu. Kastav je jedan od rijetkih gradova u kojemu se jednim korakom iz grada ulazi u šumu. U kastavskim šumama Loza i Lužina uređene su tri šetnice, omiljena mjesta mnogobrojnih šetača i trkača, idealne za iskusnije sportaše, ali i za rekreativce. Upravo je u kastavskoj šumi do prije nekoliko godina završavao Europski pješački put E-6, koji je od dalekog Baltika do Jadranskog mora slijedio trasu antičkog jantarskog puta. Tijekom cijele godine Kastav je vrlo privlačno izletište, no posebno je posjećen za vrijeme održavanja tradicionalnih manifestacija po kojima je poznat u cijeloj zemlji, ali i izvan granica Today, in the era of modern technology, some of these crafts are dying out, so a series of small local native collections dedicated to precisely the old crafts has been opened so as not to losing the trail of Kastav s rich handicraft tradition. The art of cooperage can be seen in Vikot kettler s workshop showing how barrels and other relevant products were made, and visitor can also taste the Kastavian wines and brandies. Osojnak coppery shows the works of the last Kastav master coppersmith, Milko Osojnak, who made kettle rings for brandy preparation and plates for use in agriculture as well as other household copperware.. This coopery has been preserved in an untouched state with the old bellows, fireplace and anvil and a collection of tools. In remembrance of all Kastav master bakers the Idičina peknjica was opened, where visitors can taste genuine homemade bread baked in the oldest wood burning bread oven in Kastav. Kastav is one of the rare towns where you only need to take a step in order to enter the town s woodlands. Three footpaths have been set up in Loza and Lužina, favourite sites of numerous walkers and runners and ideal for experienced athletes, as well as for beginners. Up until a few years ago the E-6 European hiking trail used to end in the Kastav wood, which went from the far Baltic to the Adriatic Sea following the ancient amber trail. Kastav is a very attractive excursion site throughout the year, although it is particularly visited during traditional event periods for which it is known all over the country, and even outside Croatian borders. One of these events is Bela nedeja (White Sunday), a young wine festival featuring the popular authentic Kastav belica (wine variety), which is traditionally held on the Hrvatske. Jedno od takvih događanja je Bela nedeja, praznik mladog vina - popularne autetnične kastavske belice, koja se tradicionalno održava prve nedjelje u listopadu. Ova je, u narodu izuzetno omiljena pučka priredba, uvijek obogaćena raznim sadržajima - prezentacijom starih zanata, sajmom vina i robe široke potrošnje, izložbama, glazbenim i scenskim događanjima, predstavljanjem knjiga, ali i izvanrednom ponudom raznovrsnih domaćih jela i pića. Višestoljetna kastavska manifestacija je i karneval koji se održava od 17. siječnja do Pepelnice. U to vrijeme gradom vladaju maškare, luduje staro i mlado, održavaju se maškarani tanci (plesovi), razne redute maškara, a grad posjećuju i tradicionalne skupine zvončara s područja Kastavštine koje bukom zvona i zastrašujućim maskama tjeraju zimu i prizivaju proljeće. Kastav se može pohvaliti vrlo razvijenom glazbenom tradicijom te bogatim kulturnim amaterskim stvaralaštvom na čijim su zasadima proteklih desetljeća nikle manifestacije Kastavsko kulturno leto i Festival gitare. Ove manifestacije ubrajaju se među najbolje ljetne manifestacije u ovoj regiji, a okupljaju umjetnike iz cijelog svijeta koji, izvodeći razne scenske i glazbene programe, privlače na tisuće posjetitelja iz Hrvatske i inozemstva. Od kvalitetnih scenskih i glazbenih uprizorenja do pučkih veselica i karnevalskih fešti, od rekreacije u prirodi do obilaska muzeja i raznih kulturnih znamenitosti - Kastav nudi sve! I kad se tome dodaju izuzetni gastronomski i enološki užici, jedino što vam preostaje je odazvati se pozivu - pridite va Kastav! first Sunday in October. Among the local people, this is an extremely popular folk event that is always enriched by a number of attractions including a presentation of traditional crafts, a wine and consumer products fair, exhibits, musical and theatrical events, a presentation of books, but also of an extraordinary offer of local dishes and beverages. A centuries old Kastav event is the carnival, which takes place from 17th January to Ash Wednesday. During that period the town is ruled by masks, both young and old become crazy while having good time. Masked dances are held together with a variety of carnival processions and the town is visited by the Kastav Region s traditional groups of bell-ringers who with the sound of their bells and frightening masks force out the winter and invoke the spring. Kastav can be proud of its highly developed musical tradition and the rich amateur creative cultural works which in recent decades have developed into the Kastav Cultural Summer and the Festival of guitar events. These events are among the best summer events in the region and bring together artists from all over the world, who perform various theatrical and musical programs, which attract thousands of visitors from Croatia and abroad. From the high quality theatrical and musical performances to the folk festivals and carnival festivities, from recreation in the heart of nature to a museum visit and a variety of other cultural attractions - Kastav offers it all! And when we add all this to the exceptional gastronomic and oenological pleasures offered here, the only thing you can do is respond to the call - come to Kastav!

34 66 67 ZOOM Tea Cimaš

35 68 69

36 70 71

37 72 73 Piše / Written by: Sanja Krmpotić Slasni kutak / Tasty corner Smatra se da je gastronomija nastala prije otkrića vatre, a hrana je više od sredstva preživljavanja, dok je izbor namirnica, njihova obrada i način blagovanja sociološki i kulturološki fenomen. Kroz povijest, ljudi su razvijali razne gastronomske navike u skladu s nutritivnim potrebama ovisno o zemljopisnoj lokaciji, klimatskim i drugim uvjetima života. S vremenom su se pojavili i svakojaki trendovi u prehrani, te popularne dijete najčešće vezane uz ime kreatora, međutim postoji kuhinja prisutna već tisućama godina, zaštitnica identiteta niza generacija, blagodati koje ističu brojna znanstvena istraživanja posljednjih desetljeća, nazivajući je zlatnim standardom održavanja zdravlja i vitalnosti. Riječ je o mediteranskoj prehrani odnosno dijeti, pri tome ne misleći na sinonim za gubitak težine, nego na izvorno značenje pojma porijeklom od grčke riječi diata, što znači način života, koji osim zdrave i uravnotežene prehrane uključuje redovitu tjelesnu aktivnost, odmor i druženje. Gastronomy is thought to have been created before the discovery of fire and food was more than just a means of survival, whilst the processing and manner of serving a variety of foods, is a sociological and cultural phenomenon. Throughout history, people have developed a variety of gastronomic habits in accordance with their nutritional needs, depending on geographical location, climate and other conditions of living. Over time all sorts of trends in nutrition and popular diets appeared usually associated with the name of their creators, but cuisine has been present for thousands of years, being the protector of the identity of a number generations, with the benefits being highlighted by a number of scientific studies in recent decades, which call it the gold standard of maintaining health and vitality. This is about the Mediterranean cuisine or diet, which does not refer to a synonym for weight loss, but to the original meaning of the term, derived from the Greek word diata, which means lifestyle, which in addition to a healthy and balanced diet includes regular physical activity, relaxation and fun. Mediteranska dijeta Stil života i zaštićena kulturna baština Mediterranean diet - A lifestyle and protected cultural heritage Prehrana za vitalnost i dugovječnost Svakodnevno svjedočimo prodoru novih proizvoda, koji našim precima nisu bili dostupni, nalazeći put do naših trpeza, donoseći nove okuse i mijenjajući prehrambene navike, koje nisu uvijek zdravstveno i nutricionistički prihvatljive. Zbog globalizacije u proizvodnji hrane, te odlaska mladih u urbane i tehnološki razvijene sredine gdje je ušteda vremena imperativ, jelovnik takve prehrane čak i u svom nazivu uključuje vremensku komponentu takozvani fast food ili brza hrana. S druge strane, mediteranska prehrana koja je tisućljećima bila simbol življenja ljudi s Mediterana, prestaje zauzimati važnost u evoluciji ljudi, što dovodi do negativnih posljedica narušenog zdravlja nazvanih jednim imenom bolesti poremećaja metabolizma. Srčani problemi, dijabetes, kroničan umor, pretilost, depresija, karcinomi... zdravstvene su teškoće 21. stoljeća, no dobra je vijest da nova era medicine rješenje vidi upravo u hrani! Mediteranski način prehrane je već duže vrijeme u fokusu znanstvenika, jer su brojna istraživanja pokazala da je životni vijek na Mediteranu dulji od onog u unutrašnjosti europskog kontinenta. Ovdje je locirano i jedno od područja u svijetu s najvećom koncentracijom dugovječnih ljudi, nazvano plava zona, izraz koji su osmislili demografi dok su provodili istraživanje na otoku Sardiniji. Talijanski liječnik i medicinski statističar dr. Gianni Pess, koji je demografima prvi otkrio podatke o plavoj zoni, rekao je da okruženje i način života mogu biti važniji čimbenici od genetike. Naime, proučavajući niz genskih varijacija povezanih s upalnim procesima u tijelu, nije otkrivena njihova bitna uloga u preživljavanju stanovnika Sardinije. Isti je slučaj i s genima povezanim s karcinomom i krvožilnim bolestima. Zaključeno je da su za vitalnost i dugovječnost presudniji okolina, životni stil i prehrana, koja je ovdje dakako mediteranska. Najvažnije karakteristike mediteranske kuhinje Međutim, iako objedinjena istim nazivom, valja napomenuti da ne postoji jedinstvena mediteranska kuhinja, jer se na Sredozemlju nalazi 16 zemalja, a razlike u kulturi, podrijetlu, Nutrition for vitality and longevity On a daily basis we witness the penetration of new products that were not available to our ancestors, products finding a way to our tables, bringing new flavours and changing our eating habits which are not always healthy and nutritionally acceptable. Due to the globalization of food production and the leaving of young people to urban and technologically developed regions where saving time is a must, the menu of such a diet, even in its name includes a time component the so-called fast food. On the other hand, the Mediterranean diet, which for thousands of years has been a symbol of life of the people from the Mediterranean area, has ceased to occupy importance in human evolution, leading to negative consequences of impaired health known by one name metabolic disorder disease. Cardiac distress, diabetes, chronic tiredness, obesity, depression, cancers... are health problems of the 21st century, but the good news is that a new era of medicine finds a solution in food! The Mediterranean diet has for a long-time been the focus of scientists, as numerous studies have shown that the average lifespan in the Mediterranean is longer than that in inland Europe. Here we can find one of the few areas in the world with the highest concentration of people living to an old age, called the blue zone, a term conceived by demographers whilst doing research on the island of Sardinia. The Italian physician and medical statistician, dr. Gianni Pess who was the first to reveal information regarding the blue zone to demographs, said that environment and lifestyle can be more important factors than genetics. Namely, in studying a range of genetic variations associated with inflammatory processes in the body, their essential role was not discovered in the survival of the inhabitants of Sardinia. This was the same in the case of genes associated with cancer and circulatory diseases. It was concluded that environment, lifestyle and nutrition were more decisive for vitality and longevity, which here, of course, is Mediterranean nutrition. The important features of Mediterranean cuisine However, although united under the same name, it should be mentioned that there is no unique Mediterranean cuisine, since there are 16 countries in the Mediterranean area, and the

38 74 75 dostupnosti hrane i gospodarskim uvjetima rezultirale su različitim prehrambenim navikama. Ipak, nekoliko je zajedničkih odrednica na kojima se temelji mediteranska prehrana, a mogu se sažeti u par redaka: - umjerena konzumacija mesa, mlijeka i sira, - visok unos voća, povrća, mahunarki i orašastih plodova (osim vitamina i minerala bogati izvor dijetalnih vlakana), te složenih ugljikohidrata (krumpir, palenta, integralne žitarice), - redovita uporaba ribe posebice plave (idealnog nutritivnog profila zbog visokovrijednih proteina i esencijalnih omega-3 masnih kiselina) - jednostruko nezasićene masnoće uglavnom iz ekstra djevičanskog maslinovog ulja - i nezaobilazno vino bogato antioksidansima, koje se konzumira u niskim ili umjerenim količinama, ali svakodnevno. Doprinos održivom razvoju Osim što je blagodatna za zdravlje i pridonosi dugovječnosti, a bogatstvom mirisa i okusa užitak je i za gurmane, mediteranska dijeta se danas smatra i održivim odnosom prema okolišu. Naime, klimatske promjene su redovita tema mnogih međunarodnih skupova, koji se još uvijek najviše bave energetskim sektorom u riješavanju problema, no pozornost se pomalo skreće i na utjecaj poljoprivrede, te komercijalni uzgoj domaćih životinja na farmama. Pretjerana konzumacija crvenog mesa u svijetu, osim što je povezana s brojnim zdravstvenim rizicima, narušava i prirodnu ravnotežu, jer se nekontrolirano uništavaju šume radi dobivanja obradivih površina za uzgoj prehrane za tovne životinje, što dovodi do povećane koncentracije ugljičnog dioksida u atmosferi, uz dodatnu emisiju metana i dušikova oksida. Suprotno navedenom, mediteranska prehrana preporučuje nizak unos crvenog mesa, sa sezonskim i lokalnim povrćem, čime doprinosi održivosti prirode i privrede. differences in culture, origins food availability and economic conditions have resulted in different eating habits. However, there are several common determinants on which Mediterranean food is based, which can be summarized in a few lines: - moderate consumption of meat, milk and cheese, - high intake of fruit, vegetables, legumes and nuts (besides being rich in vitamins and minerals these are also a rich source of dietary fibre), and complex carbohydrates (potatoes, polenta, whole grain cereals), - regular consumption of fish, especially blue fish (which have an ideal nutritional profile thanks to highly valuable proteins and essential omega-3 fatty acids) - monounsaturated fats mainly obtained from extra virgin olive oil - and of course wine which is rich in antioxidants, which is consumed in low or moderate quantities, but on a daily basis. The contribution to sustainable development Besides being beneficial for health and contributing to longevity as well as having a hose of flavours and aromas which are a pleasure for gourmets, the Mediterranean diet today is considered to be a sustainable approach towards the environment. Climate change is a regular topic of many international conferences, which are still mostly engaged in solving problems in the energy sector, although a small amount of attention is being drawn to the impact of agriculture, including the commercial breeding of domestic animals on farms. Excessive consumption of red meat in the world, besides being associated with numerous health risks, also disrupts the natural balance, since forests are uncontrollably deforested to obtain cultivable land for growing food for livestock, which leads to increased concentrations of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere, with additional emissions of methane and the nitrous oxide. Contrary to this, the Mediterranean diet recommends a low consumption of red meat, including seasonal and local vegetables, which contribute both to the sustainability of nature and the economy. Tripe od grdobine s fažolom Za 4 osobe: 300 grama mrkve 800 grama tripa 2 litre ribljeg temeljca od grdobine 5 dcl bijelog vina 400 grama kapule 250 grama kuhanog 100 grama češnjaka bijelog fažola 200 grama celera 1 list lovora ( list i stabljika) 30 ml konjaka 300 grama concassea maslinovo ulje (oguljena svježa rajčica svježi mažuran bez koštica, narezana sol, papar na kockice) Tripe od grdobine skuhajte i narežite na rezance. Kapulu nasjeckajte na kockice, češnjak usitnite, celer i mrkvu narežite na tanke ploške te pirjajte na maslinovom ulju. Dodajte tripe i nastavite pirjati oko 45 minuta do sat vremena, podlijevajući ribljim temeljcem i vinom. Dodajte concasse i fažol te začinite solju, paprom, mažuranom, lovorom, maslinovim uljem i konjakom. Prokuhajte još 5-10 minuta. Poslužite toplo s prepečenim kruhom. BISTRO MALA RIBA, Kastav Mala riba velika delikatesa! Puno zalogaja ukusnih, jednostavnih jela od ribe i plodova mora iz ulova vlastitih ribarica. U ugodnom i opuštenom ambijentu, s terasom okruženom borovinom, pripremaju se tipična primorska i mediteranska jela u stilu tapasa na kvarnerski način od svega pomalo, za uživanje i druženje uz čašu vina. Frog-fish tripe with beans For 4 people: 300 g carrots 800 g frogfish tripe 2 litres fish stock 400 g onion 5 dcl white wine 100 g garlic 250 g boiled 200 g celery white beans ( leaves and stems) 1 bay leaf 300 g concasse 30 ml cognac ( fresh tomatoes olive oil that have been fresh marjoram peeled, without salt, pepper seeds and diced) Tripe od grdobine skuhajte i narežite na rezance. Kapulu nasjeckajte na kockice, češnjak usitnite, celer i mrkvu narežite na tanke ploške te pirjajte na maslinovom ulju. Dodajte tripe i nastavite pirjati oko 45 minuta do sat vremena, podlijevajući ribljim temeljcem i vinom. Dodajte concasse i fažol te začinite solju, paprom, mažuranom, lovorom, maslinovim uljem i konjakom. Prokuhajte još 5-10 minuta. Poslužite toplo s prepečenim kruhom. MALA RIBA BISTRO, Kastav Small fish a great delicacy! Lots of tasty mouthfuls and simple meals made from fish and seafood caught from our own fishing boats. In a pleasant and relaxing atmosphere with a terrace surrounded by pine trees, typical littoral and Mediterranean tapas-style dishes are prepared in the Kvarner way - a little of everything, for socializing and enjoying with a glass of wine. Važnost očuvanja mediteranskog stila života potvrđuje i upisivanje na UNESCO-ovu reprezentativnu listu svjetske nematerijalne kulturne baštine. Naime, krajem godine zemlje Grčka, Italija, Maroko i Španjolska predale su zajedničku kandidaturu za upis pod nazivom Mediterranean Diet, što je učinjeno godine, a u prosincu godine uglednom skupu zemalja pridružili su se Cipar, Portugal i Hrvatska. Time je naša zemlja uvrštena pri vrhu na svjetskim listama: 2. u Europi i 5. u svijetu po broju upisanih elemenata na UNESCO-ovim popisima nematerijalne kulturne baštine. Čist zrak, voda i hrana Mediteranska prehrana na hrvatskom Jadranu, njegovoj obali, otocima i neposrednom zaleđu obilježena je ekološkim, klimatskim, povijesnim i kulturnim čimbenicima, te je temelj identiteta ovdašnjih ljudi prenošen generacijama. Življenje u skladu s prirodnim okruženjem, njegovim godišnjim ciklusima i blagodatima, osnova je prehrane, koja se razlikuje među pojedinim mjestima i društvenim slojevima, a može se podijeliti na ribarsku (osim u dijelu zaleđa) i težačku, odnosno na njihovu kombinaciju, što je čest slučaj na otocima. The importance of preserving the Mediterranean lifestyle confirms the inscription to UNESCO's Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage. That is to say, at the end of 2008, Greece, Italy, Morocco and Spain submitted joint candidature for the entitled inscription, Mediterranean Diet, which was carried out in 2010, whilst in December 2013 Cyprus, Portugal and Croatia joined this prestigious group of countries. In this way our country is listed at the top of the world lists: the 2nd in Europe and the 5th in the world with regard to the number of registered elements on UNESCO's list of intangible cultural heritage. Clean air, water and food The Mediterranean diet on the Croatian Adriatic, its shores, islands and the immediate hinterland is characterized by environmental, climatic, historical and cultural factors, and is the foundation of the identity of the local people which has been carried forward for generations. Living in harmony with the natural environment, its annual cycles and benefits, is the basis of the diet, which varies among different locations and social classes, and can be divided into fishing (excluding the hinterland) and agricultural, or a combination of both, which is a frequent case on the islands.

39 76 Rijeka je smještena u regiji koju su još stari Rimljani prozvali Qua(ter)narius (danas Kvarner) ili četiri nebeska pravca odnosno područje susreta svih strana svijeta, različitih tradicija i kultura. Kroz povijest ovdje su se ispreplitali utjecaji od talijanskih, austrijskih do francuskih, što je ostavilo traga i na gastronomiji, međutim duh Mediterana koji tu duboko zadire u europski kontinent, miješajući morski zrak s planinskim, čini bit izvorne primorske kuhinje. Na Kvarneru se namirnice uglavnom frigaju (prže) ili rade na padelu (kuhaju), a jelovnik je zadržao obilježja jednostavnih, primorskih jela uz čašu vina, poput omiljene marende - vrijeme predaha i obrok koji prethodi ručku. Ekološko okruženje, obilje sezonskog voća i povrća, svježe začinsko bilje, plodovi mora, čist zrak s okolnih planina, te pitka voda, izuzetne kakvoće, koja protječe središtem grada, rijetkost su u današnjem svijetu. Prijepodnevni obilazak glavne riječke tržnice place s impresivnom ribarnicom, te osjet pulsiranja trbuha grada kroz mirise i okuse smjene godišnjih doba, uvijek je iznova doživljaj i inspiracija kako domaćicama, tako i chefovima kuhinja obližnjih konoba i restorana Rijeke i okolnih šarmantnih mjesta takozvanog riječkog prstena. Iako se i ovdje zamjećuje prodor zapadnjačke prehrane, te stresan i ubrzan ritam života, prednost hrvatskog dijela Mediterana je u poprilično očuvanoj okosnici tradicionalne prehrane koju je vrijedno očuvati i održati. Jer čemu prisvajati neke druge trendove u prehrani, kada je za nas najbolji i najzdraviji upravo tu! Rijeka is located in the region once known by the ancient Romans as Qua(ter)narius (today Kvarner) or the four celestial directions which is an area where all sides of the world and their different traditions and cultures meet. Throughout history here Italian, Austrian to French influences have interwoven, and have left a mark on local gastronomy however, the spirit of the Mediterranean deeply penetrates into the European continent here, mixing the sea air with that of the mountains, becoming the essence of authentic coastal cuisine. On Kvarner food is mainly fried or prepared in padela (boiled), whilst the menu has kept features of the simple, coastal dishes accompanied with a glass of wine, such as the favourite marende (snacks) which is a time of rest and a meal which precedes lunch. The ecological environment, with plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables, fresh spicy herbs, seafood, fresh air from the surrounding mountains, and the drinking water of exceptional quality which flows through the city centre are a rarity in today's world. The morning tour of the main city market - the so called Placa with its impressive fish market, sensing the belly of the town pulsating through the aromas and tastes of the changing seasons where there is always a new experience and inspiration for housewives and cuisine chefs in the nearby taverns and restaurants alike in Rijeka s rivers and the picturesque surrounding areas of the so called Rijeka Ring. Although even here the penetration of the Western diet can be felt as well as the stressful and fast pace of living, which is the advantage of the Croatian part of the Mediterranean and the preserved backbone of traditional nutrition worthy of being preserved and maintained. So, why accept other nutritional trends when the finest and healthiest one for us is right here!

40 77 Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events Srpanj / July 2014 Riječke ljetne noći Glazbeno scenski spektakl Riječke ljetne noći donosi niz kulturnih događanja diljem Rijeke. Festival je to koji od svog uvijek spektakularnog otvaranja do završetka okuplja publiku iz cijele Hrvatske i nikoga ne ostavlja ravnodušnim. Poznati, ali i oni neistraženi prostori u gradu koji su se pokazali idealnima za stvaranje ambijentalnog teatra postat će velika pozornica ovog nadaleko poznatog festivala. Između ostalog, na ovogodišnjem izdanju festivala očekuju nas dvije premijerne izvedbe ansambla Hrvatske drame i baleta Hrvatskog narodnog kazališta Ivana pl. Zajca, niz izložbi, koncerata i reprize velikih uspješnica riječkog kazališta. Kresnikovi dani U Pomorskom i povijesnom muzeju Hrvatskog primorja Rijeka održavaju se 2. Kresnikovi dani. Dr. Franjo Kresnik bio je poznati riječki liječnik, svjetski priznati tumač starotalijanske liuterije i graditelj gudačkih instrumenata čija se ostavština čuva u Pomorskom i povijesnom muzeju Hrvatskog primorja u Rijeci. Među raznovrsnom građom ističe se jedanaest violina koje je Kresnik izgradio u vremenu od 1903.(5.) do godine u vlastitoj radionici. Zagrebački solisti na Kresnikovim će violinama 1. srpnja održati koncert u Muzeju. Također, u srpnju je u Pomorskom i povijesnom muzeju Hrvatskog primorja postavljena izložba Vjetar Mediterana koju možete pogledati do 30. kolovoza. Izložba Brodarstvo 20. stoljeća otvorena je do prosinca. Delta Summer Street Session Festival Delta Summer Street Session okuplja glazbene, likovne, street art i ostale umjetnike. Kylesa, Lazer/Wulf, Uma Thurman, Mobilee Records i Watergate samo su neka od imena koja će nastupiti na ovogodišnjem izdanju festivala na Delti. Pul Kaštela Na Trsatu, duž ulice Petra Zrinskog koja nas vodi od Frankopanskog trga prema Trsatskom kaštelu, tradicionalno će biti postavljena likovna izložba na otvorenom Pul kaštela. Radi se o pravoj poslastici za sve ljubitelje umjetnosti i bajkovitog Trsata. Ljeto na Gradini U srpnju na Trsatskom kaštelu započinje Ljeto na gradini, raznolik i kvalitetan kulturno zabavni program. Unutar zidina, s veličanstvenim pogledom na Rijeku, publika će uživati u predstavama, koncertima i ostatku bogatog programa ove manifestacije. Rijeka Summer Nights Musical and scene spectacle "Rijeka Summer Nights" brings a series of cultural events throughout Rijeka. This is the Festival which from its always spectacular opening to the end gathers audience from all over the Croatia and leaves no one indifferent. The famous, but even those unexplored areas in the city which have proven to be ideal for creating ambient theater will become a big stage of the world famous festival. Besides other, this year's edition of the festival, we will encounter two premiere performances of the Croatian drama ensemble and ballet of Croatian National Theatre Ivan pl. Zajc, a series of exhibitions, concerts and replays of great success stories of the Rijeka theater. Kresnik Days In the Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral in Rijeka are held the 2nd Kresnik Days. Dr. Franjo Kresnik was a famous Rijeka physician, world recognized interpreter of old Italian luteria and the builder of stringed instruments whose legacy is kept at the Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral in Rijeka. Among the various materials stand out eleven violins which Kresnik built in the period since 1903/5 to 1940 in its workshop. Zagreb Soloists will held a concert playing on Kresnik violins which will take place on 1 July at the Museum. Also in July, in the Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral was placed an exhibition "A Wind of Mediterranean" which you can see until 30 August. The exhibition "Shipping the 20th century" is open until December. Delta Summer Street Session Festival Delta Summer Street Session brings together music, art street art and other artists. Kylesa, Lazer/Wulf, Uma Thurman, Mobilee Records and Watergate are just some of the names which will to perform at this year's festival at the Delta. To the Castle On Trsat along the Petar Zrinski street which takes us from Frankopan Square toward the Trsat Castle will traditionally be set up an open art exhibition "Pul kaštela It is a real delicacy for all lovers of art and fairy Trsat. Summer at Gradina In July at the Trsat Castle starts the Summer at Gradina, diverse and high-quality cultural and entertaining program. Within the walls with a magnificent view on Rijeka, the audience will enjoy the performances concerts and the rest of the rich program of this event.

41 78 79 Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events Kolovoz / August 2014 Spomen zbirka Domovinskog rata Na Dan domovinske zahvalnosti i Dan hrvatskih branitelja u Pomorskom i povijesnom muzeju Hrvatskog primorja otvara se stalni postav Spomen zbirke Domovinskog rata. Velika Gospa Kolovoz će obilježiti veliki crkveni blagdan. Najznačajnija proslava odvija se na Trsatu, u jednom od najstarijih hrvatskih marijanskih svetišta. Tisuće hodočasnika i vjernika iz cijelog svijeta tradicionalno će se okupiti na proslavi blagdana Vele Gospe u svetištu Majke Božje Trsatske. Posjetitelje također očekuju kulturni i zabavni program. Ljeto u Starom gradu Na Pavlinskom trgu u kolovozu se održava kulturno zabavna manifestacija Ljeto u starom gradu. Riječke stepenice Brojna hrvatska poznata lica će i ovog kolovoza prošetati kamenitim stepenicama u centru grada. Modna revija večernjih haljina i odijela renomiranih modnih kuća i dizajnera u Rijeci se održava po osmi put. Memorial collection of the Homeland War On Homeland Thanksgiving Day and the Day of Croatian defenders in the Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral opens a permanent exhibition of the Memorial collection of the Homeland War. Assumption of Mary The August will be marked with a great ecclesiastical feast. The most important celebration takes place at Trsat, one of the oldest Croatian Marian sanctuaries. Thousands of pilgrims and believers from around the world will traditionally gather to celebrate the feast of the Assumption in the sanctuary of Our Lady of Trsat. Summer in the Old Town In August, at Pavlinski Square, will take place of this cultural event. Rijeka stairs A number of known persons from Croatia even this August will walk along the stony stairs in the center of town. A fashion show of evening dresses and suits of renowned fashion houses and designers in Rijeka will be held for the eighth time. Svjetski tjedan svemira Svjetski tjedan svemira se diljem svijeta obilježava od 4. do 10. listopada. U tom razdoblju obuhvaćena je godišnjica lansiranja prvog umjetnog satelita u svemir te godišnjica prihvaćanja načela o miroljubivom istraživanju i korištenju svemira. Svjetski tjedan svemira obilježit će se i u Rijeci, prigodnim programom, predavanjima i promatranjem neba u Astronomskom centru Rijeka. Festival šaha Festival šaha u listopadu u Rijeku dovodi brojne šahiste i šahistice, pa je tako ovo prava prilika da uživo pogledate kako igraju velemajstori. Studeni / November 2014 Međunarodna revija lutkarskih kazališta Na samom početku studenoga, djecu će razveseliti Međunarodna revija lutkarskih kazališta. U Gradskom kazalištu lutaka i u HKD-u na Sušaku svoja najbolja ostvarenja predstavit će lutkarska kazališta iz Hrvatske i svijeta. Osim kazališnih predstava za djecu i odrasle, tijekom Revije organizira se niz popratnih događanja: likovne i lutkarske radionice za djecu, izložbe i predavanja. The World Space Week The World Space Week is all over the world celebrated from 4 to 10 October That period covers the anniversary of launching the first artificial satellite into the universe, and the anniversary of accepting the principle of the peaceful exploration and utilization of the universe.. The World Space Week will be also celebrated in Rijeka, with an occasional program, lectures and observation of the sky in Rijeka Astronomy Centre. Chess Festival The Chess Festival brings a number of male and female chess players to Rijeka in October, so this is a real opportunity to see in live how International Grandmasters play. International Puppet Theatre Revue At the beginning of November Puppet Theatres from Croatia and abroad will present their best accomplishments at the City Puppet Theatre and in the CCD on Sušak. Besides the theatre performances for children and adults, during the Revue is organizing a series of accompanying events: art and puppetry workshops for children, exhibitions and lectures. Rujan / September 2014 Zoom festival Zoom festival i ove godine donosi raznovrstan umjetnički program u najširem smislu riječi. Ovaj festival izvedbenih umjetnosti kombinira različite tehnike, metode i izričaje na tri različite gradske lokacije, a ove godine su to HKD na Sušaku, Tunel i Delta. Zoom festival Zoom Festival even this year brings a diverse artistic program in the broadest sense of the word. This festival of performing arts combines a variety of techniques, methods and expressions, on three different locations of the city and this year these are CCD at Sušak, Tunnel and Delta. Ideja kreacija proizvod Na Trgu 111. Brigade održava se sajam ručnih izrada, domaćih delicija i umjetničkih obrta. Akcijom se promoviraju domaći proizvođači i njihovi vlastiti proizvodi. Provodi se edukacija predavanjima, razgovorima i propitivanjima te se ukazuje na vrijednost vlastitog rada. Izradom i finalizacijom na licu mjesta promovira se ručni rad, raznolikost umjetničkih obrta, originalnost ideja, kreativnost, raznovrsnost tehnika i materijala. Idea creation - product At 111th Brigade Square takes place a Fair of hand-made products, homemade delicacies and artistic crafts. The action promotes local producers and their own products. Education is carried out by lectures, discussions and questioning, and is pointing to the value of their own work. With creation and finalization on site are promoted the handmade products, diversity of artistic crafts, originality of ideas, creativity, variety of techniques and materials. Grand Prix u judu U Dvoranu Zamet stižu judaši iz cijelog svijeta. Naime tamo se 13. i 14. rujna održava IJF Grand Prix u judu. Međunarodni festival salse Da biste uživali u energičnom plesu i dinamičnoj glazbi ne morate otputovati na Kubu. U Hrvatskom kulturnom domu na Sušaku se od 19. do 21. rujna održava Torpedo Salsa festival. Regata tisuću otoka Nakon uspješne organizacije prve Regate tisuću otoka, jedriličari kreću na drugo izdanje ove jedinstvene navigacijske regate koja od rujna prolazi između više od 1000 jadranskih otoka. Regata se vozi na relaciji Rijeka Tivat Rijeka. Grand Prix in Judo Judokas from all over the world are coming to Zamet Sport Centre. There will be held the IJF Grand Prix in Judo, on 13th and 14th September. International Salsa Festival To enjoy the energetic dance and dynamic music, you do not need to travel to Cuba. From September in Croatian Cultural Dome at Sušak will be held Torpedo Salsa Festival. Regatta of thousands of islands After the successful organization of the first Regatta, sailors will embark to the second edition of this unique navigation regatta which from 18 to 24 September passes between more than 1,000 Adriatic islands. The regatta will take place on the route Rijeka - Tivat Rijeka. Prosinac / December 2014 Rijeka Advent Prosinac u Rijeci donosi niz događanja - od prigodnog bogatog programa za mališane do koncerata i ostalih popratnih događanja koja će uljepšati ovo, već samo po sebi, posebno božićno doba. Božić je judi Tradicionalni koncert Božić je judi ove godine će se održati u impresivnom ambijentu Katedrale sv. Vida. Tradicionalne božićne pjesme i druge duhovne skladbe samo su dio repertoara ovog renomiranog koncerta. Poznati glazbenici Primorsko-goranske županije će na ovaj način mnogobrojnim posjetiteljima zaželjeti sretan Božić i Novu godinu. Rijeka Nautic Show Nautički sajam Rijeka Nautic Show" održat će se na tri lokacije uz more na Gatu Karoline Riječke, Rivi Boduli i na terminalu. Na ovogodišnjem sajmu ljubitelji nautike moći će razgledati ponude brojnih izlagača. Hartera Bivšu tvornicu papira Hartera na nekoliko dana oživjet će respektabilan festival koji u Rijeku dovodi svjetski poznata glazbena imena. Lokacija, izvođači, uređenje prostora, različita popratna događanja čine ovaj festival jednim od najznačajnijih u regiji. Florijana Na mostu ispred hotela Continental održava se sajam cvijeća, izložba voća i povrća Florijana. Radi se o manifestaciji izložbenog, edukativnog i prodajnog karaktera. Listopad / October 2014 Rijeka Nautic Show The Nautical Fair will be held at three locations by the sea - on the Pier of Karolina Riječka, at Riva Boduli and on terminal. At this year's Fair the nautical enthusiasts would be able to see offers of a number of exhibitors. Hartera The former paper factory Hartera for several days will be revived by a respectable festival which brings world-famous musicians in Rijeka. Location, performers, decoration of the area, various accompanying events make this festival one of the most important in the region. Florijana On the bridge in front of the Hotel Continental takes place a flower fair, an exhibition of fruits and vegetables, "Florijana". It is a manifestation of the exhibition, educational and selling character. Novogodišnji koncert U vrijeme božićnih blagdana, nezaobilazna destinacija svih ljubitelja klasične glazbe je Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivana pl. Zajca. 28., 29. i 30. prosinca na repertoaru su popularni Novogodišnji koncerti, vrhunski glazbeni doživljaji i društvena događanja. Doček Nove godine Doček Nove godine na riječkom Korzu uvijek je pun pogodak. Želite li godinu dočekati na nekonvencionalan, spektakularan, opušten i tipično riječki način nećete pogriješiti. Mnoštvo poznatih izvođača i uvijek vesela riječka publika jamstvo su vrhunske zabave koja traje dugo u noć. Rijeka Advent December in Rijeka brings a number of events - from occasional rich program for kids to concerts and other accompanying events that will brighten this by itself particular Christmas season. Božić je judi (People, it is Christmas) The traditional concert this year will be held in the impressive ambience the Cathedral of St. Vitus. Traditional Christmas songs and other spiritual songs are only part of the repertoire of this renowned concert. The famous musicians of Primorje-Gorski Kotar county will in that way wish a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year numerous visitors. New Year's Concert During the Christmas holidays an inevitable destination for all lovers of classical music, is the Croatian National Theatre Ivan pl. Zajc. On 28, 29 and 30 December the repertoire includes popular New Year's concerts the ultimate musical experiences and social events. Hal's All Star Guitar Festival Krajem listopada Rijeka postaje glazbena metropola. U organizaciji gitarističkog vituoza Damira Halilića Hala u Rijeci se na Hal's All Star Guitar Festivalu okuplja svjetska gitaristička elita. Ovaj sjajan gitaristički festival je glazbena poslastica vrhunske kvalitete otvorena za raznovrsnu publiku. Hal's All Star Guitar Festival At the end of October Rijeka becomes the music metropolis. In the organization guitar virtuoso Damir Halilić Hall in Rijeka on Hal's All Star Guitar Festival will gather the world's guitar elite. This splendid Guitar Festival is a musical delicacy of superior quality opened to diverse audiences. New Year's Eve The New Year's Eve at Rijeka s Korzo is always a good choice. Would you like to wait for the 2015 in an unconventional, spectacular, relaxed and typically Rijeka way you will not go wrong. Numerous of well-known performers and always cheerful audience of Rijeka are a guarantee of top entertainment that lasts long into the night.

42 80 81 Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events Siječanj / January 2015 Riječki karneval S novom godinom započinje i peto godišnje doba u Rijeci. Ključevi grada predaju se maškarama, grad se odijeva u šareno ruho, vrijeme je za ples, pjesmu, maske i veselje - očekuje nas mjesec dana spektakularnog Riječkog karnevala. U sklopu karnevala organizira se mnoštvo maškaranih događanja, a kruna ovog petog godišnjeg doba je Međunarodna karnevalska povorka. Ova riječka priča započela je davne kad su po Korzu prošle tri karnevalske grupe Lako ćemo, Pehinarski feštari i Halubajski zvončari. Karneval je otad postao način života, izrastao u najznačajniju karnevalsku svečanost u Republici Hrvatskoj, a prepoznat je i daleko izvan granica Lijepe naše. Danas na Riječkom karnevalu sudjeluje preko stotinu grupa koje čine tisuće sudionika. Broj posjetitelja i gledatelja koji Karneval prate putem TV ekrana i interneta diljem svijeta svake je godine sve veći. O popularnosti i kvaliteti Riječkog karnevala dovoljno govori činjenica da je Rijeka punopravni član Europske udruge karnevalskih gradova (FECC), a osim toga Riječki karneval se našao na listi 500 najvažnijih zbivanja u Europi Top 500 European Events. Sunday Times Karneval je pak proglasio jednim od najegzotičnijih događaja u svijetu. Peto godišnje doba u Rijeci se ne propušta! Noć muzeja Hrvatsko muzejsko društvo i ove godine organizira nacionalnu manifestaciju Noć muzeja. Ovo je jedina noć u godini u kojoj su besplatno otvorena vrata muzeja i ostalih kulturnih ustanova diljem Rijeke. Izložbe, predavanja, stručna vodstva kroz postave muzeja, projekcije, predstave, radionice i slični programi samo su neka od raznolikih događanja koja će obilježiti zadnji dan mjeseca siječnja. Veljača / Feruary 2015 Dječja karnevalska povorka U sklopu Riječkog karnevala Korzo će preplaviti grupe najmanjih i najslađih maškara iz Hrvatske i inozemstva. U ovoj razigranoj povorci, centrom grada prošetat će nekoliko tisuća mališana predškolskog i školskog uzrasta. Međunarodna karnevalska povorka Središnji događaj u maškaranoj Rijeci je svakako Međunarodna karnevalska povorka. Centar grada 15. veljače okupirat će stotine alegorijskih kola, tisuće sudionika i gledatelja. Ova spektakularna završnica karnevala na Korzo dovodi najoriginalnije maske i maštovite kreacije iz raznih dijelova Europe. Budi što želiš! Dođi na Riječki karneval! Ožujak / March 2015 Rijeka Carnival With the new 2015 starts also the fifth season in Rijeka. The keys of the city are hand over to masks,, the city dresses its colourful garments, it is the time for a dance, singing, masks and joy - there will be a month of spectacular Rijeka Carnival. This Rijeka story began back in 1982 when along the Korzo passed three carnival groups - "Lako ćemo", "Pehinarski feštari" and "Halubje ringers". Since then Carnival has become a way of life, has grown into the most important carnival celebration in the Republic of Croatia, and has been recognized far beyond the borders of our country. Today more than hundreds of groups with several thousand of participants participate in the Rijeka Carnival. The number of visitors and viewers who follow the Carnival on TV screens and Internet around the world, every year gets bigger. About the popularity and quality of the Rijeka Carnival is sufficient to say that is the Rijeka is a full member of the Association of European Carnival Cities (FECC), and besides that, the Rijeka Carnival is on the list of 500 most important events in Europe - The Top 500 European Events. The Sunday Times proclaimed Carnival the one of the most exotic events in the world. The fifth season in Rijeka is not to be missed! Night of museums Croatian Museum Association organizes the national event The Night of Museums. This is the only night in the year when there is a free entrance to museums and other cultural institutions throughout Rijeka. Exhibitions, lectures, guided tours through the museum's exhibitions, projections, performances, workshops and similar programs are just some of the variety of events which will mark the last day of the month of January. Children Carnival Parade As a part of the Rijeka Carnival, Korzo will be overwhelmed by groups of smallest and sweetest masks from Croatia and abroad. In this exuberant parade, along the city centre will walk several thousands of children of pre-school and school age. International Carnival Parade The central event in masked Rijeka is certainly the International Carnival parade. On 15th February, the town centre will occupied by the hundreds of allegorical floats, thousands of participants and spectators This spectacular finals of the Carnival will bring to Korzo the most original masks and imaginative creations from different parts of Europe. Be what you want! Come to the Rijeka Carnival! Međunarodni festival malih scena U Hrvatskom kulturnom domu na Sušaku održava se 22. izdanje Međunarodnog festivala malih scena. Kazališne kuće iz Hrvatske i ostalih dijelova Europe u Rijeci predstavljaju svoja najdojmljivija izdanja. Manje kazališne forme koje se predstavljaju na festivalu i nekonvencionalan pristup scenskom razmišljanju uvijek su izvor propitivanja, pa se stoga nakon svake predstave održavaju okrugli stolovi. Uvijek pomno odabrane predstave u Rijeku privlače goste iz cijele Europe, a ovaj festival svrstavaju među događanja koja ljubitelji kazališta nipošto ne propuštaju. Astronomski centar Rijeka U organizaciji Akademskog astronomskog društva Rijeka, u Astronomskom centru obilježava se 54. godišnjica prvog čovjekovog leta u svemir. Također se, u sklopu manifestacije Festival znanosti, održavaju predavanja i promatranja neba. Svibanj / May 2015 Fiumare Pomorski grad ima svoj pomorski festival. Fiumare ili Kvarnerski festival mora i pomorske tradicije odvija se na tri gradske lokacije - Mrtvi kanal, Porto Baroš i Wenzelova ulica. Uvijek bogat festivalski program bit će izvrsna uvertira u toplo ljeto i morske radosti. Marijini dani Bogat duhovni program u svibnju privlači mnogobrojne hodočasnike u Svetište Majke Božje na Trsatu. Tijekom Marijnih dana, brojne skupine i udruge svakodnevno sudjeluju u marijanskim pobožnostima. Već tradicionalno prve nedjelje u svibnju Majci Božjoj Trsatskoj hodočaste mornari, ribari, kapetani lučkih kapetanija, učenici i studenti pomorskih škola, pripadnici Pomorske policije i Hrvatske ratne mornarice te Bokeljske mornarice, članovi udruga hrvatskih dragovoljaca, udovica Domovinskog rata i roditelja poginulih branitelja. Središnji događaj je proslava blagdana Gospe Trsatske, čuvarice grada Rijeke, koji se slavi 10. svibnja. Festival mediteranske maritimne baštine Festival je rezultat inicijative Pomorskog i povijesnog muzeja Hrvatskog primorja i Udruženja pomorskih muzeja Mediterana te suradnje s organizatorima kvarnerskog festivala mora Fiumare. Naime, uz promociju pomorske baštine Kvarnera predstavit će se i pomorska baština mediteranskih zemalja i regija. Cvjetno proljeće Riječki sajam cvijeća i uređenja u svibnju će ukrasiti pješački most iznad Riječine, kod hotela Continental. Građani će moći kupiti cvijeće i ukrasno bilje, informirati se o uzgoju biljaka na organiziranim predavanjima te poslušati pokoji vrtlarski savjet. Na sajmu su također izloženi razni proizvodi za uzgoj cvijeća i vrtna dekoracija, a mogu se kušati i domaće delicije. International Festival of Small Scenes In Croatian Cultural Dome on Sušak is held the 22nd edition of the International Festival of Small Scenes. Theatres from Croatia and other parts of Europe in Rijeka represent their most impressive releases. Smaller theatrical forms that represent themselves at the festival and an unconventional approach to the stage performance have always been a source of questioning, and therefore after each performance are held roundtables. Always carefully selected performances in Rijeka attract visitors from all over Europe, and this festival is categorized among events that theater fans certainly do not miss. Rijeka Astronomy Centre In the organization of Academic Astronomical Society - Rijeka, in the Astronomy Centre is celebrated the 54th anniversary of man's first flight into the universe. Also, as part of the event Festival of Science, are held lectures and observations of the sky. Fiumare The Maritime city has its own maritime festival. Fiumare or Kvarner festival of the sea and maritime tradition takes place at three city locations - Mrtvi kanal, Porto Baroš and Wenzelova Street. Always rich festival program will be a great overture to a hot summer and sea activities. Our Lady s Days Rich spiritual program in May attracts many pilgrims to the Shrine of Our Lady of Trsat. During Mary's days, numerous groups and organizations are daily involved in Marian devotions. Almost traditionally, the first Sunday of May to Our Lady of Trsat pilgrimage sailors, fishermen, captains of the port authorities, students of maritime schools, members of the Marine Police and Croatia Navy as well as of Boka Navy, members of the Association of Croatian war volunteers, Homeland war widows and parents of deceased veterans. The main event is a celebration of the feast of Our Lady of Trsat, the guardian of the city of Rijeka, which is celebrated on May 10. Festival of Mediterranean Maritime Heritage The festival is result of an initiative of the Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral and the Association of Mediterranean Maritime Museums as well as of cooperation with the organizers of the Kvarner Festival of the Sea "Fiumara". The maritime heritage of the Mediterranean countries and regions will be also presented. Floral spring Rijeka Fair of Flowers and spatial planning in May will decorate the footbridge over Rječina, near the Continental Hotel. Citizens will be able to buy flowers and decorative plants, learn about growing plants in organized lectures as well as have some gardening advice. At the fair will also be exposed various products for cultivation of flowers and garden decoration, and will be also offered the local delicacies to taste. Međunarodni dan planetarija Pod okriljem Međunarodne udruge planetarija, u Astronomskom centru Rijeka se 15. ožujka organizira Međunarodni dan planetarija. U Riječkom digitalnom planetariju, jedinom takve vrste u Hrvatskoj, možete uživati u projekcijama i filmovima na stropnoj kupoli promjera 8 metara. Travanj / April 2015 International Day of Planetaria Under the auspices of the International Association of planetariums, in Rijeka Astronomy Centre on 15 March will be organized the International Day of Planetaria. In Rijeka digital planetarium, the only one of its kind in Croatia, you can enjoy in movies and projections on the ceiling dome of a diameter of 8 meters. Lipanj / June 2015 Dani svetog Vida Lipanj je u znaku zaštitnika grada Rijeke, svetog Vida. Diljem grada odvija se čitav niz manifestacija. Građani uz bogati duhovni program od 12. do 15. lipnja mogu sudjelovati u zabavnim, kulturnim i sportskim događanjima. Dani svetog Vida zaključuju se svečanim misnim slavljem u katedrali sv. Vida. St. Vitus s Days June is characterized by the patron saint of Rijeka, St. Vitus Throughout the city there is a whole series of events. Citizens will, besides a rich spiritual program that will take place from 12 to 15 June, be able to take part in entertainment, cultural and sporting events. St. Vitus Days will be closed by a solemn Eucharistic celebration in the Cathedral of St. Vitus. Homo si teć Preko 10 tisuća sudionika svake se godine okupi na ovoj najmasovnijoj uličnoj utrci na svijetu. Riječki polumaraton se ove godine trči na relaciji Korzo Preluk, a za one koji preferiraju kraće relacije održava se nenatjecateljska utrka užim centrom grada. Festival znanosti S ciljem podizanja svijesti o znanosti i znanstvenim dostignućima, u Rijeci se i ove godine održava Festival znanosti. Posjetitelji će uživati u brojnim, uvijek zanimljivim predavanjima, izložbama, radionicama i programima na različitim lokacijama. Homo si teć More than 10,000 participants each year gather on this most numerous street race in the world. Rijeka half marathon this year is running on the route Korzo - Preluk, and for those preferring shorter relations will be held non-competitive race through the inner city centre. Festival of science With the aim of raising awareness about science and scientific achievements, in Rijeka also this year is held the Festival of Science Visitors will enjoy the numerous, always interesting lectures, exhibitions, workshops and programs at various locations. Fiumanka Riječki akvatorij zabijelit će jedra iz Hrvatske i inozemstva. U lipnju se tradicionalno održava međunarodna jedriličarska regata Fiumanka koju prati bogati zabavni program. Malik fest Ključevi Trsatskog kaštela se u lipnju predaju Maliku, mitskom biću koje zbija šale s ljudima dok sjedi na ćupu zlata. Tako započinje Malik fest - Festival mitova i legendi Istre i Kvarnera. Na Trsatu se održavaju kazališne predstave, radionice, natjecanja i niz drugih sadržaja u znaku legendi, mitova i priča. Fiumanka Rijeka acquatorium will be whitened with sails from Croatia and abroad. In June, is traditionally held the international sailing regatta "Fiumanka" accompanied by a rich entertainment program. Malik fest Keys of the Trsat Castle will be hand over in June to Mālik, a mythical creature which is joking around with people whilst sitting on a barrel of gold. Thus begins the festival of myths and the legends of Istria and Kvarner. On Trsat are held theatrical performances, workshops, competitions and many other activities characterized by legends, myths and stories.

43 82 83 Press clipping - Kako nas drugi vide / As others see us Božićne čestitke iz Hrvatske Odredište: Hrvatska Zahvaljujući ljubaznosti domaćina, raznovrsnoj kuhinji i ekološki zaštićenom čistom i mirnom moru, Kvarnersk dio Hrvatske postaje jednim od najatraktivnijih odmorišnih odredišta Europe. Piše: Alice Clinton U Kvarnerskom zaljevu, području bogate kulturno-povijesne baštine, smjestilo se više od 1000 otoka. Više od 10 milijuna turista iz cijelog svijeta slijeva se ovdje svake godine kako bi uživali u dugim, toplim danima i prekrasnom krajoliku. Uz 2700 sunčanih sati godišnje (u usporedbi Essexom koji ih ima otprilike 1500), Kvarner je već dugo vremena mjesto za one koji žele uživati u suncu međutim i kratak boravak mi je otkrio da Kvarner ima puno više za ponuditi od samih sunčevih zraka. Rijeka, rodno mjesto torpeda koje broji stanovnika, je regionalno središte Kvarnera i najveća hrvatska luka. Bivši industrijski grad udaljen je 90 minuta od Zagreba, sat vremena od Trsta i samo 30 minuta vožnje autom od slovenske granice. Treći hrvatski grad po veličini, kozmopolitsku Rijeku su tijekom stoljeća obilježili razni osvajači, uključujući Austrijance, Talijane i Mađare ostavivši pritom zaista atraktivnu arhitekturu kao jedinstven dar. Nikako ne smijete propustiti posjetiti obližnje naselje Trsat, popeti se na gradinu i uživati u neusporedivom pogledu na grad i obalu. Nekoliko kilometara uz obalu smjestila se Opatija, poznata i kao Kraljica turizma i Biser Jadrana. Opatija je elegantan i prijateljski grad smješten duž Kvarnerskog zaljeva. Još su davne godine uglednici iz središnje Europe započeli ljetovati na ovom području pa je tako i grad oduvijek aktualan. Tijekom boravka ne propustite posjetiti Villu Angiolina, prvu vilu na ovom području izgrađenu unutar uređenih terena parka Angiolina. U nekadašnjem povijesnom ljetnikovcu danas je smješten Muzej turizma u kojem su izloženi mnogobrojni eksponati koji su obilježili 19. stoljeće. Ne zaboravite zastati u bilo kojoj od brojnih malih trgovina ili barova i kušati lokalne žestice spravljene od meda, rakije i ljekovitog bilja. Nakon toga, prošetajte kroz park do romantičnog Lungo Mare 20 km duge šetnice koja zmijulji duž obale s kojeg možete uživati u pogledu na more s jedne strane te raslinjem bujnoj obližnjoj planini Učka s druge strane. Christmas greetings from Croatia Travel: Croatia Thanks to friendly locals, varied cuisine and ecologically preserved clean and calm seas, the Kvarner region of Croatia is becoming one of the most attractive holiday destinations in Europe. By: Alice Clinton There are more than 1,000 islands in the Kvarner Bay, an area rich in cultural and historical heritage. Over 10 million tourists from around the world flock there each year to enjoy the long, hot days and breathtaking scenery. With 2,700 hours of sunshine annually (compared to approx. 1,500 in Essex), Kvarner has long been the go-to location for sun-seekers but a short break there reveals that it has so much more than sunshine to offer. Birthplace of the torpedo with a population of 145,000, Rijeka is the regional centre of Kvarner and Croatia's largest port. The former industrial town is 90 minutes from Zagreb, an hour from Trieste and a mere 30 minutes from the Slovenian border, by car. Croatia's third largest city, cosmopolitan Rijeka has had marks left upon it by various invaderss over the centuries, including Austrians, Italians and Hungarians lending the eye-catching architecture a truly unique flair. A visit to adjoining village Trsat cannot be missed and a climb up to the castle is a must for unparalleled views of the city and coast. A few miles up the coast lays Opatija, also known as 'Queen of Tourism' and 'Pearl of the Adriatic'. Opatija is an elegant, friendly town nested along the Kvarner Bay. Back in 1844 Central European dignitaries began holidaying in the area and the town has been in style ever since. Don't miss a visit to Villa Angiolina during your stay, the first villa in the area set in landscaped grounds of Angiolina Park. The historic former holiday home now houses a museum of tourism which showcases many absorbing 19th century displays. Don't forget to stop off at any of the number of shops or bars for a taste of fiery local tipples which include honey, brandy and herb infused spirits. After this, take a stroll through the park to romantic Lungo Mare a 12-mile promenade that snakes along the coast where you can enjoy the sea vista to one side and the lushness of nearby Mount Učka on the other. Mount Učka looms over Opatija, providing some shade which means the town is always a welcome few degrees cooler than the rest of the coast. A drive to Vojak, the peak of Mt Učka, is a must to see one of the most beautiful panoramas in Europe. At a height of 1,401 m you can gaze accross the clear blue waters of the Kvarner Bay. When we visited, our charming guide pointed out the main sights: Istria, Gorski kotar and of course the astonishing sweeping view of the Italian Alps and even Venice can be seen from the vantage point. It will take a few hours of moderate trekking to reach Vojak, or a more sedate 40 minute drive. It's worthwhile to sign up for an expert tour of the park which will set you back just 300 kuna ( 34) for up to 10 people or 30 kuna ( 3,40) per person if there are more than 10. For more information go to: pp-ucka.hr Učka se nazire nad Opatijom, stvarajući malo hlada što znači da je dobrodošlica u grad uvijek za nekoliko stupnjeva niža nego na ostatku obale. Vožnja do Vojaka, vrha planine Učka, obavezna je kako bi se uživalo u jednoj od najljepših panorama u Europi. Na visini od 1,401 metra nadmorske visine, pogled će vam se rasprostrijeti duž čistog plavog mora Kvarnerskog zaljeva. Kad smo ga mi posjetili, naš simpatičan vodič nam je istaknuo glavne znamenitosti: Istra, Gorski kotar i naravno, zapanjujući i predivan pogled na talijanske Alpe, pa čak i Veneciju moguć je s ovog vidikovca. Do Vojaka je potrebno nekoliko sati umjerenog hoda ili 40-tak minuta umjerene vožnje. Najbolje je predbilježiti se za stručnog vodiča parkom cijena je samo 300 kuna ( 34) za grupe do 10 osoba ili 30 kuna ( 3,40) po osobi ukoliko je u grupi više od 10 osoba. Za više informacija posjetite: pp-ucka.hr Netom nakon izlaska iz Rijeke, most će vas povezati s otokom Krkom, lokalno poznatijim kao Zlatni otok, čuvenim po suncu, gostoljubivosti, maslinovom ulju i vinu. Otočni grad Krk učinit će da se osjećate kao da ste se vratili u rimsko doba, dok će vas stari dio grada očarati svojim nevjerovatnim antiknim uličicama. Provedite dan lutajući po Vrbniku i okolici, domu najuže ulice na svijetu, ali si ostavite dovoljno vremena za posjet Vinariji Nada i kušanje lokalnih vina i rakija. Zaboravite šampanjac i nazdravite ovoj regiji rashlađenom čašom Valometa, autohtonog pjenušca kojeg je moguće popiti samo u Vrbniku. Vino dozrijeva pod vodom gdje temperatura mora pruža idealne uvjete za isto. Kratka vožnja trajektom s Krka odvest će vas do velikog otoka Cresa ekološke oaze Kvarnera. Ovdje oni koji su u potrazi za avanturom mogu krenuti nešto južnije kako bi usvojili delfina ili naučili roniti s bocama u Lošinju ili se malo duže voziti sjeverno do mirne Tramuntane i istražiti netaknute maslinike. Na Lošinju vam zasigurno neće biti dosadno jer se tu nalazi više od 250 km planinarskh staza i različitih ronilačkih škola uključujući školu Diver u Malom Lošinju koja nudi početne satove za otprilike 47 funti po osobi. Međutim, nije sve u suncu, moru i pijesku. Odvezite se 50-tak kilometara od Opatije prema unutrašnjosti i naći ćete se u zelenom srcu Hrvatske: u Gorskom kotaru. Prepun čuda prirode, ovo mirno zeleno područje je s obale gotovo neprepoznatljivo. Šetajte, planinarite, hodajte ili biciklirajte duž Nacionalnog parka Risnjak koji se proteže na 6400 hektara i u potpunosti iskoristite guste šume, dom zaštićenim vrstama koje uključuju smeđeg medvjeda i risa. Pobjegnite od jadranske vrućine i posjetite gradić Fužine. Ovdašnje građevine manje su nalik mediteranskim, a više švicarskim planinskim kućicama, kako bi izdržale teške nanose snijega kojeg je u ovom planinskom području svake zime jako puno. Uživajte u pogledu na usnuli grad iz eko-brodića na jezeru Bajer i u potpunosti doživite naselje čokoladnih kućica ili se rashladite u obližnjem čudu prirode Špilji Vrelo. Kako budete putovali Kvarnerom, vidjet ćete kako se kontinentalni stav, arhitektura i gastronomija povlače pred sve većim mediteranskim utjecajem. Baš kako mi je rekao jedan lokalni čovjek Kvarner je magično mjesto. Ovo je mediteranska duša središnje Europe. Mi imamo sve." I zaista imaju. Just outside Rijeka, a bridge will connect you to the island of Krk, known locally as the Golden Isle, and famed for its sunshine, hospitality, olive oil and wine. Rural Krk towns will make you feel like you've stepped back into Roman times and the old quarter of Krk Town is sure to delight with its incredible ancient streets. Spend a day rambling around Vrbnik, home of the world's narrowest street and make sure you leave enough time to visit the Nada Winery for local wine and spirit tasting. Forget champagne and toast the region with a chilled glass of Valomet, an indigenous sparkling wine that can only be drank in Vrbnik. The wine matures underwater where sea temperatures provide the ideal conditions. A short ferry trip from Krk will land you on the large island of Cres the ecological oasis of Kvarner. Here adventure-seekers can drive south to adopt a bottlenose dolphin or learn to scuba dive in Lošinj, or for some down time drive north to quiet Tramuntana to explore the unspoilt olive groves. In Lošinj there's no danger of boredom, with over 250 km of hiking trails and various diving schools including Diver in Mali Lošinj which offers intro classes from around 47 per person. But it's not all sun, sea and sand, drive a mere 30 miles inland of Opatija and you will find yourself in Croatia's green heart: the Gorski kotar region. Full of natural wonders, this peaceful green space is almost unrecognisable from the coast. Walk, hike, trek or cycle your way around the 6,400 acre Risnjak National Park to get the full benefit of the dense forests, home to protected species including the brown bear and lynx. Escape the Adriatic heat by visiting the town of Fužine. The buildings here are less Mediterranean and more Swiss chalet style, to accomodate the heavy snowfall the mountainous area experiences each winter. View the sleepy town from the eco-boat on Bajer Lake to fully appreciate the chocolate-box village or cool down with a trip to nearby natural wonder Vrelo Cave. As you work your way through Kvarner, you will see how continental attitudes, architecture and gastronomy give way to more Mediterranean influences, as one local man told me Kvarner is a magical place. This is the Mediterranean soul of central Europe. We have it all. And they really do.

44 W E L C O M E T O R I J E K A Broj/Issue 8 Lipanj /June 2014 Godina/Year 5