Butterflies of the Balkans - Bulgaria, Macedonia and Greece

Transcription

1 Butterflies of the Balkans - Bulgaria, Macedonia and Greece Sunday 1 st - Sunday 15 th July 2012 Trip report by Dr. Mario Langourov Tour leader: Dr. Mario Langourov 1 Tour participants: Mr. John Parish Mr. Roy Hilton Bulgaria, 1 st - 3 rd and 11 th 15 th July 2012 Macedonia, 3 rd - 7 th July Greece, 7 th 11 th July Day 1 Sunday 1 st July Outbound from Sofia; en route to Rila Monastery via Struma Valley; near Stob Village. Weather: sunny and hot, dry, still (~33ºC). At noon I went to the hotel to pick up Mr. Roy Hilton who arrived the day before and together we set off to the airport to meet the other participant in the tour - Mr. John Parish. After that on highway Struma and under the rays of the July sun we headed to our first hotel, situated not faraway from Rila Monastery. After departing from the main road we decided to make our first stop, near the village of Stob, famous for its sandy "pyramids". It turned out the only place for tour, where we found the Green-veined White, Eastern Dappled White and Lulworth Skipper, and besides them also Common Glider, Grizzled and Dingy Skippers and others. Good start! After we checked in at the hotel, Roy went out on a search for butterflies, while John watched Dippers in the river, just below his balcony and some other birds in the area. Day 2 Monday 2 nd July Rila Mt: Iliyna River Valley; Kirilova Polyana; Tiha Rila. 1 All photos in this report were taken during the holiday by Mario Langourov

2 Weather: sunny and warm; breezy morning, cloudy afternoon. Our first site for the day is the valley of Iliyna river a place where almost always the attractive Purple Emperor and Poplar Admiral can be seen. Indeed our first stop was caused by Poplar Admiral (Pic. 2), which has landed on the road. After we finished the photo session we scattered on the nearby meadows where we found Arran Brown, Pearl-bordered Fritillary, High Brown Fritillary, Large Wall Brown, Speckled Wood. Just when we were about to leave when I saw Hungarian Glider (Pic. 3), so we payed attention on it, but our departure was again delayed as we spotted a Purple Emperor (Pic. 4). Eventually our walk in the valley continued, pausing along the way to more meadows full of blooming flowers. Here we saw Scarce Copper, Short-tailed Blue, Large Blue, White Admiral, Nothern Wall Brown. After light lunch we headed to Kirilova meadow where we found Blackveined White, Map Butterfly, Balkan and Purple-shot Copper, and then we decided to visit higher parts of the mountain - around and above 2000 m a.s.l. Here except the butterflies - Orange Tip, Mazarine Blue, Small Pearlbordered and Weaver's Fritillary, Bright-eyed Ringlet, Eastern Large Heath, we also found the insectivore plant Balkan Butterwort (Pinguicula balcanica). Day 3 Tuesday 3 rd July Bulgaria Kresna Gorge; Macedonia near Kavadartsi. Weather: sunny and very hot, dry, still (34-35ºC). After breakfast we set off to Macedonia, but before we crossed the border we took some time for Kresna gorge. Not long after we started our exploration on the surrounding slopes and here the highlight were Little Tiger Blue, White-banded Grayling, Eastern Rock Grayling, Lesser Fiery Copper, Oriental Marbled Skipper, Safflower Skipper, and above our head flew and landed on the bushes Southern White Admiral and Common Glider. Around the blossoms were flying many Scarce Swallowtails and Swallowtails, from this latter species we also found some caterpillars. We enjoyed a nice lunch under the shadows of century old Oriental Plane trees above the foaming river Struma. Today we had a relatively long drive and after crossing the border without problems we stopped for a short break in the late afternoon near Kavadarci where the heat was pressing the ground... However, among the reduced number of butterflies should be mentioned Southern Small White, Great Banded Grayling, Lesser Spotted Fritillary. Some Small Pincertails also posed for a picture. Not long after we arrived in Prilep and we checked in at the hotel. Day 4 Wednesday 4 th July Macedonia Babuna Mt; above Shtavitsa Village; Mariovo. Weather: sunny and very hot, dry, still (~37ºC). First we decided to visit the slopes of Babuna mountain. We were met by range of fritillaries, amongst with Niobe Fritillary and Cardinal and among the surrounding plants and on the rare blossoms we saw also Idas Blue and Turquoise Blue. A bit later we saw the first of many Macedonian Grayling (Pic. 5), along with it were flying Eastern Greenish Black-tip and Great Sooty Satyr. After we saw enough of them we focused our attention to the blades Star (Cross) Gentian (Gentiana cruciata), on which we found the eggs of Alcon Blue, and also around we saw Mountain Small White and Anomalous Blue. John and Roy stayed to take pictures of Southern Emerald Damselfly and I was already next to the car when a grayling flew from somewhere and took my attention. I looked at it more carefully and call the others - Balkan Grayling!. He appeared to be very photogenic and allow us a series of excellent photos. It was almost time for lunch, and we went to the almost untouched by human hands Mariovo region. Here, after enjoying a picnic lunch in the shade of riparian trees, we started a study of the area. Among Mediterranean vegetation we found Adonis Blue, Blue-spot and White Letter Hairstreak, Lesser Fiery Copper and different types of dragonflies. It turned out the only place where we saw Lattice Brown.

3 Day 5 Thursday 5 th July Macedonia Babuna Mt; Pelister Mt; Galichitsa Mt. Weather: sunny and warm/ hot, dry, still (25 30ºC). Before we set off west to the Prespa Lake we decided again to turn our attention to Babuna mountain. It turned out to be a good decision we managed to see Balkan Marbled White, Eastern Baton Blue, Sooty Copper, Eastern Bath White. After Bitolya our attention was drawn to the flowering meadows in the northern foot of Pelister (Grandmother) mountain. Here on the blossoms were landing different types of fritillaries (Cardinal, Silverwashed, Dark Green, Weaver's), Ringlet, Pearly Heath. After light lunch in the hotel, situated at the coast of Prespa Lake, we climbed on Galichitsa mountain and we changed the Mediteranean landscape with a mountain one. The mountain meadows were full of life and among others we can highlight here Reverdin's Blue, Mazarine Blue, False Eros Blue, Twin-spot, Knapweed and Nickerl's fritillaries, Esper's Marbled White (Pic. 6) and White Admiral. We found time to admire the beautiful scene, which from here was showing us the lake. While enjoying the lovely view and the silence movement in the crown of a tree drew my attention. I went to look around and suddenly I spotted a Lesser Lattice Brown (Pic. 7)! Then another one joined it! Immediately I called John and Roy and we spent half an hour taking pictures and observing this really rare butterfly. Day 6 Friday 6 th July Macedonia Galichitsa Mt. Weather: till midday - sunny and warm, dry, still (~27ºC); in the afternoon cloudy with sunny periods, light breeze. After breakfast we headed to Galichitsa again and dedicated the day to carefull study of the different zones in the mountain. Flowering elders easily dispensed food for many fritillaries (High Brown, Marbled, False Heath) and Hairstreaks (Black, Blue-spot, Sloe). Among grasses and shrubs we observed even Apollo and Clouded Apollo, Escher's Blue, Marsh Fritillary, Heath Fritillary, Russian Heath. Suddenly storm clouds gathered over the mountains and the sky became black and we headed to the place for lunch. The beautiful Korita area provided for us great conditions for picnic lunch, combined with exceptional views of Ohrid Lake and the mountain village Trpeitsa. As we only had a very brief shower, we returned to the high zone of the mountain. We spent that time in the company of Glanville Fritillary, Yellow-banded Skipper, Southern Comma and clouds of Esper's Marbled White. But the search for our elusive so far Freyer's Fritillary was still fruitless... Time advanced, the butterflies were preparing for the coming night, and we headed back to the car. Just before reaching it, I saw on a flower Freyer's Fritillary (Pic. 8)! It was well-disposed and allowed everyone to make their necessary shots. It was time to return to the hotel and after dinner to have the well-deserved rest. Day 7 Saturday 7 th July Macedonia near Kavadartsi, Marena Village, Demir Kapia Gorge, Doyran Lake; Greece Doyran Lake. Weather: sunny and very hot, still (~38ºC); in the midday very localised shower. Today we set off trough south Macedonia to Greece. On our first stop to the surroundings of Kavadartsi where we saw and we photographed Krueper's Small White, Eastern Wood White, Adonis Blue, Oberthür's and Sandy Grizzled Skippers, and birds were also well represented pair of Egyptian Vultures, Long-legged Buzzard, Black Stork. Later we stopped for ice cream in Marena village, where we admired Lesser Kestrels. Fast transfer on the highway and here we were in very busy roadside restaurant where we enjoyed a nice lunch in the shade of ancient plane trees, just above the Vardar river. In the early afternoon we visited the spectacular gorge of the river

4 Demir Kapia. Here on the blossoms fluttered single Scarce Swallowtail, Southern White Admiral and Eastern Bath White. On both sides of the border we made stops on the shore of Doiran lake, where, however, the butterflies gave place to the dragonflies - Scarlet Darter, Common Clubtail, Skimmers. We checked in at hotel located near the Kerkini lake, offering, besides a comfortable stay, lovely view of the lake. Day 8 Sunday 8 th July Greece Kerkini Lake & Belasitsa (Kerkini) Mt. Weather: sunny and very hot, still ( ºC). The day started with a walk around the coast of the lake, which brought us numerous Large Copper (Pic. 9), Short-tailed Blue (Pic. 10), Lang's Short-tailed Blue, Southern Comma, Berger's Clouded Yellow, Oriental Marbled Skipper and others. When the heat became stronger we went at the foot of Belasitsa mountain, where despite widely eaten leaves of Nettle-Trees and many empty pupae we were unable to see any Nettle-Tree Butterfly, and butterflies were generally represented by the most common species. We ate under the old sycamores and we continued our tour around the lake. Here, our attention was caught by its feathered inhabitants and its dragonflies - Egrets, Herons, Spoonbills, Glossy Ibis, Crested Grebes, Dalmatian and White Pelicans, Hopooes, Bea-eaters, different Gulls and Terns; as well as Pincetail, Balkan Goldenring, Southern, White-tailed and Black-tailed Skimmers and Red-veined Darter. Day 9 Monday 9 th July Greece above Sidirokastro; Menikio Mt; Bozdag (Falakro) Mt. Weather: sunny and very hot, still (33 40ºC). After the breakfast we first took a look at the valley above Sidirokastro, situated between the mountains Alibotoush and Vrondous. Here the highlights were some Freyer's Graylings (Pic. 11), which we found at the trunk of a small plane tree. They were very cooperative and allowed us plenty of photos. In flowering bushes near a fountain among other types emerged Anomalous Blue, Lesser Fiery Copper, Holly Blue, Painted Lady, Niobe Fritillary and Grizzled Skipper. For lunch we stopped in Alistrati, where we found the reastaurant of one of the many Bulgarians in the area. In the early afternoon around Aggitis River we stopped for a walk and then we again continues to our goal the Phalakron Mountain. In its surroundings we decided to take a look at the rocky slopes, not farаway from Petrousa. We did not come across anything impressive, so we had nothing left but to head to our hotel. The owner of the hotel Kosta, welcomed us very warmly and offered us traditional dishes. Kosta is also Bulgarian, so there were no language barriers here. Day 10 Tuesday 10 th July Greece Bozdag (Falakro) Mt. Weather: sunny and warm untill midafternoon, than cloudy and rain; late afternoon torrential rain with T-storm (between 27ºC to 12ºC) Similar to the the last year trip, our host Kosta offered to join us in the mountain and we accepted it with pleasure. So again we had a guide who was telling interestingly stories about the places we were visiting. We decided to start from the highest part of the mountain (just above 2000 metres) so we could take advanatage of the good morning weather. However, our attention was drawn by a Grayling that landed beside the road, so we decided to stop for more carefull observation. Once established that it was Woodland Grayling and while chasing it, another caught my attention and I shouted "Dil's Grayling"! John and Roy were taking pictures of it when I found out that I forgot my camera in the hotel While I left them in the kingdom of the graylings I made a fast drive back to the hotel and in fifteen minutes I have retirned, so we could continue. Shortly after we reached our initial goal, where

5 we had a picture to remember the moment (Pic.1). Here we found Hermit, Eastern Large Heath, Chalk-hill Blue, Turquoise Blue, Black Ringlet (Pic. 12), as well as the local endemic Phalakron Blue (Pic.13). The meadows in this area are covered with the Balkanian endemic Sideritis scardica, known for its healing properties and also as an aphrodisiac. After a picnic lunch in a roadside gazebo with panoramic view we started to explore the surroundings, which produced Higgins's and Ripart's Anomalous Blue, Dusky Meadow Brown and Great Sooty Satyr. We decided again to visit the place where we saw graylings and we were rewarded with Woodland Grayling. Next thing I saw was Dil's Grayling (Pic. 14), and it appears that they are actually few so we spent the next 45 minutes in their company. Banished by the gathered storm clouds we went to the lower parts of the mountain. But in the late afternoon when the sky was bright again we returned and spent another hour or so until the sky turned dark agan, with some lightnightnings. It resulted in one of heavest rain I've ever seen and in these sircumstances (visibility was no more than a meter) the drive to the hotel took us nearly an hour... Day 11 Wednesday 11 th July Bulgaria South Pirin Mt; Papaztchair Pass. Weather: sunny and warm; still (27 33ºC). We crossed the border and shortly after we were in the southern foothills of Pirin mountain. Here we found ourselves among clouds of butterflies, which were taking minerals form the roadside puddles and nectaring from the blossoms, among them there were Scarce Swallowtail, Idas Blue, Chapman's Blue, Turquoise Blue, Meleager's Blue, Chalk-hill Blue, Marbled and Lesser Marbled Fritillary, Weaver's Fritillary, Map Butterfly, Sandy Grizzled Skipper and Orbed Red-underwing (Hungarian) Skipper. In the surrounding vegetation we found Large Blue and Gatekeeper. We ate at the roadside gazebo and we headed to Papazchair pass where we found Apollo, Balkan Copper (Pic. 15), Scarce Copper, Mazarine Blue, Bright-eyed Ringlet, and on Cross Gentian eggs of Alcon Blue. Day 12 Thursday 12 th July Pirin Mt Vihren to Bunderitsa Hut; Chalin Valog. Weather: sunny and warm; still (25ºC 30ºC). Today we reached again 2000 metres above the sea level our first site today is Vihren hut from which we went down to Banderitsa hut. Our main targets here are different species of ringlets, we managed to see Arran Brown, Water Ringlet, Woodland Ringlet, Common and Ottoman Brassy Ringlet, as well as Clouded Apollo, Pearlbordered Fritillary and Small Pearl-bordered Fritillary. Nutcrackers and Crossbills also showed up. At lunch time the owner of the nearby restaurant kindly offered us a table where we ate our picnic. We spent afternoon on the wet meadows in the area Chalin valog (valley) in the company of Large Copper, Large Blue, Pearly Heath, Marbled Skipper, Knapweed and Heath Fritillaries. But undoubtedly most attention was devoted to the Alcon Blue (Pic. 16), whose eggs we noticed among the tips of Gentiana cruciata. Day 13 Friday 13 th July Rila Mt Belmeken to Premkata; near Sestrimo. Weather: sunny periods, but dry, breezy (20ºC 30ºC). Again we were above 2000 metres above the sea level. It s warm although cloudy. The path led us higher and higher and around us were flying Large Ringlet, Nicholl's Ringlet, Bright-eyed Ringlet and Eastern Large Heath. We reached the site for Bulgarian Ringlet (Pic. 17) and Balkan Fritillary, and along with them we observed Balkan Copper and Dusky Grizzled Skipper. For picnic lunch we choosed an even meadow on the shores of the clear mountain stream. Then we decide to go up to Premkata (over 2400 meters), hoping to find Shepherd's Fritillary. Around one of the stakes of the winter marking our attention was drawn by large butterfly and when we approached we were surprised to see

6 Camberwell Beauty, which flew, made a circle and returned to the base of the stake, and then disappeared somewhere between the stones! We reached Premkata and at first we didn t see any butterflies but after that we finally saw our goal - Shepherd's Fritillary! We found few more and also a paring couple (Pic. 18). It was time to go down. In the late afternoon we stopped for short break around the flowering Buddlea, not faraway from Sestrimo. Nearby we saw among the branches Common Glider, as well as Gatekeeper, Ringlet, Little Blue and Dingy Skipper. A little later we reached the hotel, nestled in the northern foothills of the Rila Mountain. Day 14 Saturday 14 th July Rila Mt; Iskar Valley - Vedena. Weather: cloudy periods but warm, still (25ºC 27ºC). We took the chair lift to the highest parts of Rila. Within half an hour we crossed over 1000 meters elevation - from 1300 meters to over 2300 meters! A great opportunity to enjoy the splendor of the Rila Mountains and its nature. Our main goal here is Cynthia's Fritillary and the beginning is promising on the arriving we saw Scotch Argus and Dewy Ringlet (Pic. 19). On the meadows were also flying Painted Lady, Peacock, Small Tortoiseshell, Small Pearl-bordered Fritillary, Queen of Spain Fritillary and Eastern Large Heath. While crossing dwarf pine scrubs, we saw our fist Cynthia's Fritillary! On the next meadow we first found some males and later some females and everyone managed to make excellent shots. After nice picnic lunch in the kingdom of Cynthia's Fritillary (Pic. 20) it was time to go down to Borovets and we continued our way to Sofia, as Roy s flight home was in the late evening. However, in the Iskar river valley we stopped at one more place where we found Purple-shot, Scarce and Sooty Coppers, Blue-spot Hairstreak, Map Butterfly. After we left Roy at the airport, me and John continued to our last base for the holiday, situated just outside of Sofia. Day 15 Saturday 15 th July Aldomirovo Marsh; Chepan Hill; Dragoman Marsh. Weather: sunny and very hot, still (38 40ºC). In the early morning we arrived at Aldomirovskoto swamp located near our hotel. After starting with seeing some of the many birds we turned our attention to the butterflies around - Blue Argus, Silver-studded Blue, Sooty Copper, Scarce Swallowtail and Dingy Skipper. Then we headed to the limestone massif of Chepan where we found Ripart's and Grecian Anomalous Blue, Meleager's Blue, Chalk-hill Blue, Knapweed Fritillary, Heath Fritillary and Lesser Marbled Fritillary. While we were admiring the significant number of Hermits (Pic. 21), we almost imperceptibly reached the ridge where a magnificent panorama was uncovering Dragoman swamp, lying at our feets the largest karst swamp in Bulgaria. In the bushes we saw Silverspotted Skipper, Speckled Wood and seeking the coolness of the trees we found Great Banded Grayling. Our last goal is the Dragoman swamp itself, where we dedicated most of the time to its birds, and from the butterflies we saw Pearly Heath, Wall Brown and Marbled Skipper. We went to our hotel where we met Dobry (he runs Spatia Wildlife) and his wife Mariana and chatted before bedtime. The total for the trip two weeks spent in the most interesting and picturesque places of the Balkans produced 153 butterflies species, 107 birds and 15 dragonflies!

7 Pic.1. The group at Bozdag mountain. Left to right: Roy, John, Kosta (our host), Mario Pic.2. Poplar Admiral (Limenitis populi) Pic.3. Hungarian Glider (Neptis rivularis)

8 Pic.4. Purple Emperor (Apatura iris) Pic.5. Macedonian Grayling (Pseudochazara cingovskii) Pic.6. Esper's Marbled White (Melanargia russiae) Pic.7. Lesser Lattice Brown (Kirinia climene) Pic.8. Freyer's Fritillary (Melitaea arduinna) Pic.9. Large Copper (Lycaena dispar)

9 Pic.10. Short-tailed Blue (Everes argiades) Pic.11. Freyer's Graylings (Neohipparchia fatua) Pic.12. Black Ringlet (Erebia melas) Pic.13. Phalakron Blue (Polyommatus andronicus) Pic.14. Dil's Grayling (Pseudochazara orestes) Pic.15. Balkan Copper (Lycaena candens)

10 Pic.16. Alcon Blue (Maculinea alcon rebeli) Pic.17. Bulgarian Ringlet (Erebia orientalis) Pic.18. Shepherd's Fritillary (Boloria pales) Pic.19. Dewy Ringlet (Erebia pandrose) Pic.20. Cynthia's Fritillary (Euphydryas cynthia) Pic.21. Hermit (Chazara briseis)